Thread application

Contents

1. Thread usage
2. Stitches
3. Seams
3. Quality issues
4. Garment Properties
 Thread application
1. Apparel
– Woven garments
- Knitted garments
2. Leather
– Footwear
- Garments
- Accessories as belts, wallets, bags etc
3. Automotives
 Thread application
Woven fabrics:

 With warp and weft yarns interlaced.

 Various ranges in the weave type.
 Common weaves
- Plain, Twill, Satin, Corduroy, Dobby etc.
 Usage from light weight to heavy weight
 Weight is expressed in terms of GSM or ounce
 Thread application
Knitted fabrics:

 With wales and coarses -

interlooped.
 Various ranges in the knit type.
 Common knits are,
- Jercy,Rib, Interlock, etc.
 Usage from light weight to heavy
weight.
 Weight is expressed in terms of GSM
 Stretchy in nature due to the looped construction
 Thread application
Functional properties of a garment depends on,

1. Fabric type
2. Seam type
3. Stitch type
4. Machine / needle type
5. Thread type
6. Wash

Fabric properties are significant for seams & stitches !

 Product introduction
Fabric properties:

1. Strength
2. Cover factor
3. Finish
4. Shrinkage
5. Yarn slippage strength
6. Elasticity
7. Elongation
8. Texture
9. Drapability

Thread's contribution to seam appearance is related to fabric

properties as well !
Stitches
 Stitches
A stitch is…
…a loop structure of threads.

Stitching is…
… a series of stitches.

Sewing…
…process of making stitching or seams.
 Stitch Types

Lockstitch Chainstitch

Oscillating shuttle Rotary hook

* Domestic * Industrial

Rotary looper Oscillating looper

* Button Stitching * 2T- chain

Overlock
Coverseam
 Stitches
Classified by US Federal Standards
Based on common kinematic principle of stitch
construction.

1. Class 100 - Single thread chain stitch

2. Class 200 - Hand stitch - normally not sewing machine
3. Class 300 - Lock stitch - Hook & bobbin
4. Class 400 - Multi thread chain stitch - Looper
5. Class 500 - Overedge and safety stitch
6. Class 600 - Cover stitch - Similar to 400, but with top cover
Stitch Type 101

N
 Stitch Type 101
 Single thread chainstitch, has a needle
thread, and a blind looper.
 Has good extention, but unravels easily.

 Used for stitching feed bags, fertiliser

bags.
The stitch unravels easily and therefore


makes access to the bag contents easier.

Single thread chainstitch buttonsew


machines also use this stitch.

There is a problem in that if the machine


does not tie the last few stitches, and the

thread is pulled, the stitch will unravel and
the button will fall off.
Stitch Type 301

B
 Stitch Type 301
 Lockstitch, has a needle thread and a
bobbin thread
 The needle & under thread cross over in

the middle of the fabric

 Does not unravel easily,

 Poor extention.

 Stitch is reversible

 Uses least amount of thread

 Excellent seam security

 Lower productivity

 More susceptible to thread breaks

 Used in wide range of end uses.

Stitch Type 304

ZIG ZAG ONE STEP

LOCKSTITCH
 Stitch Type 304

 Lockstitch zig zag, has a needle

thread and a bobbin thread.
 Has same benefits as 301 viz:

security of seam
reversibility

wont unravel easy

 Has better extension due to the zig

zag configuration.
 Used mostly on lingerie , foundation

wear and underwear, where a secure

seam with good extension is
required.
Stitch Type 304
Stitch Type 401

L
 Stitch Type 401

 Two thread chainstitch - one needle

thread and one looper thread.
 The needle & underthreads cross over

on the underside of the fabric

 Higher seam strength and seam

stretch than a lock stitch

 Higher productivity

 Seam runback (unraveling) is a big

problem
 Seam security not as good as lock

stitch
 Increased bulk under the seam

 Used for joining trouser panels, riser

seams and felled seams in jeans.

Stitch Type 401
Stitch Type 404

ZIG ZAG TWO THREAD

CHAINSTITCH
Stitch Type 406

N1

N2

L
 Stitch Type 406

 Cover seam stitch, has 2 needle and

1 looper thread.
 Excellent extention, easy to unravel.
 Used for :
 T shirts/knits sleeves and bottom
hems.
 stitching of belt loops in jeans &
trousers.
 Gives very good extension, and is
mostly used to cover a raw edge in
the fabric after the fabric has been
hemmed etc.
Stitch Type 406
Stitch Type 407

N1

N2
N3

L
Stitch Type 407
Stitch Type 504

L1

L2
 Stitch Type 504

 3 thread overlock, has 1 needle

thread and 2 looper threads.
 Has excellent extention and does

not unravel easily.

 Used for serging to stop fabric

fraying, and for joining 2 or more

plies together.
 However this is not a tight stitch

and seam security could be a

problem.
 Bulky seams
Stitch Type 504
Stitch Type 512

N1

N2

L1

L2
 Stitch Type 512
 Mock safety stitch, has 2 needle and
2 looper threads
 Very good extention, will not unravel

easy.
 Side seams, join panels, attach

sleeves, join shoulders etc. on knitted

fabrics, tee shirts, polos.
 Side seams, join panels, etc. on

swimwear and on aerobic wear, cycle

pants etc.
 Where there is a need for a secure

seam that needs very good

extension.
 512 is more secure than 504 (3

thread overlock) but less secure than

516 (5 thread safety stitch)
Stitch Type 512
Stitch Type 514

N1

N2

L1

L2
Stitch Type 514
Stitch Type 516

N1

L1

N2

L2

L3
 Stitch Type 516
 5 thread safetystitch, has 2 needle
threads and 3 looper threads. A
combination stitch
 Has two stitch types in one, 504 and

401. Good extention, very strong. If one

fails the other can absorb the strain
 Used for
 joining panels where seam stretch is
critical
 or joining seams where security of

seam is important. Jeans (inside legs)

side seams and sleeves on shirts,
overalls etc.
 High seam elasticity
Stitch Type 516
Stitch Type 602

N1

N2

L
 Stitch Type 602
 Top and Bottom cover seam stitch,
has 2 needle, 1 looper and 1 spreader
thread.
 Used :
as a stitch to cover the joint between
binding and the garment (necks of
knitts)
as a decorative stitch on night gowns &
sweat shirts
for stitching legs of aerobic wear and
straps on swimwear.
to stitch/attach binding to knitted night
gowns. Sweat shirts etc.
 Has excellent extension, when a small
stitch is used excellent seam cover is
achieved.
Stitch Type 602
Stitch Type 605

N1
N2

N3

L
 Stitch Type 605

 Utilizes 3 needle threads, one looper

and one cover thread.
 Used in knitwear, lingerie & under

garments.
 High seam elasticity.

 Flat, comfortable seams - ideal for

'next to skin' sewing applications.

 Can also be used as a decorative

seam
 Very high thread consumption.
Stitch Type 605
Stitch Type 607
S

N1
N2
N3
N4

L
 Needle/ Looper/ Spreader Configuration.
Stitch Type Needles Bobbins Loopers Spreaders

Lock stitch 301 1 1

1T Chain stitch 101 1 (1)
2T Chain stitch 401 1 1
3T Over lock 504 1 2
4T Mock safety stitch 512 2 2
4T Over lock 514 2 2
5T Safety stitch 516 2 3
3T Cover seam 406 2 1
4T Cover seam 407 3 1
4T Cover seam 602 2 1 1
5T Cover seam 605 3 1 1
6T Cover seam 607 4 1 1
 Special Stitch Types
1. Pin tuck - Lock or Chain.
2. Picotin
3. Smocking
4. Blind hem stitch – Lock or Chain
5. Pick / Saddle stitch
 Thread consumption
Thread consumption could be,

1. Amount of thread present in a given garment.

2. Amount of thread consumed while making one
garment
3. Amount of thread required to complete a given order
quantity
 Thread consumption
Affected by,

1. Stitch type
2. Seam type
3. Material thickness
4. No of fabric plies
5. Construction
6. Machine type - UBT
7. Operator efficiency
8. SPI