See update log. This guide is accessible at bit.

ly/unchartedtokyo

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Introduction
This guide is very much a work in progress - there are tons of things that are not mentioned yet! If you
notice anything particularly egregious, please send an email to akasaka@gmail.com - the errors are my
own. Most of the things in the Tokyo and Kyoto sections have been things I’ve experienced. I can’t say the
same of user-provided content. Photos are courtesy of Flickr and all are CC-licensed material. Portions of
this guide are courtesy of Erika Yamasaki, Anne Riechert, Lukhnos Liu, and Titubu, dokool, matthewguitar,
satannik, madd0g11, zedrdave, GenesAndCo on Reddit and the /r/tokyo community.

A picture of a cop trying to make sense of Ame-yokocho. Photo by Rio Akasaka.

How to read this guide

Sections highlighted like this denote quick tips or suggestions.

See also links will bring you to other sections of the guide. Things in bold are usually referenced in their
own section, so be sure to explore thoroughly through this guide.

Table of contents

2
Introduction

Guidebooks

What’s Near Where

Sample Itineraries
Itinerary 0: the unequivocally uncharted
Itinerary 1: the typical tourist
Itinerary 2: the culturally curious
Itinerary 3: the rainy roamer
Itinerary 4: the eager explorer
Itinerary 5: the prolific photographer
Itinerary 6: the foodie shopper
Itinerary 7: day trips

General Cultural Thoughts

Before Getting In
Budgeting
Dress
Driving
New Years and Holidays
Kentucky Fried Christmas
Earthquakes

Getting In
Haneda vs. Narita
Most convenient: Limousine Bus
Narita Express
Cheapest: Keisei bus
Fastest: Keisei Line Skyliner

Staying

Getting Around
Addresses
Trains and Subways
Japan Rail (JR) Pass
Bus
Taxis
Suica and Pasmo
Transportation out of Tokyo
Shinkansen
Overnight bus
Flights

Neighborhoods
Harajuku

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 Omotesando
Shibuya
Roppongi
Akihabara
Ueno
Asakusa
Shinjuku
Omoide yokocho
Kabukicho
Tokyo Station
Ginza
Ikebukuro
Odaiba
Daikanyama

Other Neighborhoods
Kagurazaka
Shimokitazawa
Sugamo
Yanesen and the University of Tokyo
Yasukuni shrine and Yushukan
Shibamata
Jinbocho
The Imperial Palace

Museums and Touristy Stuff

Grutt Pass
Nightlife
Yurikamome
Yakata-bune
Studio Ghibli Museum
Edo Tokyo Museum
Tokyo Tower
Tokyo Skytree
Taking photos of Skytree
Odaiba Ferris Wheel (Daikanransha)

Things (Some) Locals Do, See and Eat

Capsule hotel
Pachinko
Combini
Sumo
Tsukiji
Dagashi
Matsuri
Onsen
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 Kabuki/No
Flea market
Fake Food
Themed and strange restaurants
Romantic spots
Retro arcades

Food and Drinks

Yakitori (やきとり、焼き鳥)
Okonomiyaki (お好み焼き)
Takoyaki (たこ焼き)
Sukiyaki (すき焼き)
Sushi (すし、寿司)
Curry-Rice (カレーライス)
Omu-Rice (オムライス)
Noodles
Oden (おでん)
Tempura (天ぷら)
Tonkatsu (とんかつ)
Drinks

Shopping
Don Quixote (Donki)
Takeshita-doori
100 Yen Stores - Daiso and Can Do
Ochanomizu guitar street
Electronics and cameras
Tokyu Hands

Beyond Tokyo
Beaches
Yokohama Chinatown
Hikes
Mt. Fuji
Before going
Things you want to bring
Getting there
Nikko (日光)
Kamakura (鎌倉)
Getting there
Izu Islands (伊豆諸島)
Nagano (長野）
Osaka (大阪)
Kyoto (京都)
Getting there
Places to stay
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 Places to go
Nara (奈良)
Hiroshima (広島)
Haikyo

Other Logistics
Lockers
If you get sick
Telephones, Cell phones
Money Stuff
Tipping and Taxes
Currency Exchange
Purchasing online
Credit cards
ATMs
Wifi
Postal System

Update log

Guidebooks
The content here is by no means authoritative or complete. Please be sure to check out other useful
sources.
http://www.hellodamage.com/top/tokyo-tour-guide/
http://tokyoscum.blogspot.jp/
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2164.html
http://tokyodeep.info/tokyo/minato/ (JP)
http://wikitravel.org/en/Tokyo
http://unmissablejapan.com
http://travel.nytimes.com/frommers/travel/guides/asia/japan/tokyo/frm_tokyo_0085020048.html
http://injapan.gaijinpot.com/play/travel/2012/04/26/10-free-or-cheap-accommodations-in-japan/
http://web-japan.org/tokyo/tour/index.html

Sample Itineraries
This guide is really made for people who spend a week or longer in Tokyo. But if you’re in a rush, consider
the following sample itineraries. Do note that most stores open late on Sunday, so places like Shibuya are
more fun in the evening.

Itinerary 0: the unequivocally uncharted

My usual recommendation to visiting friends is to spend time strolling through bigger and smaller
neighbourhoods (Omotesando toward Shibuya, Ura-Harajuku, backstreets of Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Yanaka,
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Sumida-gawa, Shimokitazawa, Koenji, Kichijoji… ) away from the stations and major landmarks, and just
enjoy the vibe and unexpected encounters. Leave the large temple visits to Kyoto, which has a much better
offering and somewhat less crowd than Sensoji and buy your camera online or at Yodobashi Shinjuku like
anybody else. If this is still too vague, wander around Rikugien, Sugamo, Kagurazaka, or Shimokitazawa.
Alternative half-day jaunts include a trip to Nakano Broadway or the 600 or so flea market stalls on the
weekends at the race track grounds of Ooi-keibajo.

Itinerary 1: the typical tourist

Start the day at quiet and zen-like Meiji Jingu and Yoyogi Park, before the stores open elsewhere at
10am. Walk to Harajuku, through Takeshita Doori and on towards Omotesando. Stop by Kiddy Land for
toys. Otherwise, take the train to Akihabara, to explore the otaku and anime culture, or swap that out with a
trip to Asakusa to take in a different kind of temple atmosphere. Take the subway all the way back towards
Shibuya, where things start coming alive in the evening and the scramble crossing gets livelier. Do some
shopping at Tokyu Hands or 109. Have dinner in the area or go to a theme restaurant, and end the day at
an arcade like Taito Station or Sega.

Itinerary 2: the culturally curious

Hit the sumo stables in the morning, and attend a kabuki show in the evening (1 hour and a half). Do
some souvenir shopping while visiting the temple at Asakusa Sensoji. To fill in the time between, wander
along the Sumida river bank, taking in some of the following stops:

Map by http://web-japan.org/tokyo/tips/sumida_tour/sumida2.html

(This route was suggested by the Tokyo metro events team. The route takes 11.3 km and about 3.5 hours
7
of walking)
For another angle, take the Hanzomon train to Sumiyoshi station. From there, meander to Kiba Koen
(Kiba Park) before enjoying the calmness that is Tomioka Hachimangu. Next, head towards Fukagawa
Fudodo temple (if you’re there on the 1st, 15th or the 28th of the month, make sure to take in some of the
food stalls there), the Ningyo-cho area and the mechanical figurine clock before arriving at the famed
Nihonbashi. Follow through to the Currency Museum of the Bank of Japan before going towards Kanda
Shrine, ending the day at the Ueno Royal Museum (Ueno no Mori Museum).

Itinerary 3: the rainy roamer

Start the day really early with a visit to the tuna auction in Tsukiji (check dates) or visit at a little more
reasonable time (after 9am) without seeing the auction. Spend some time away from the rain inside the Edo
Tokyo Museum or the travel a bit farther away to the Ghibli Museum if you have tickets already. If your
travel plans bring you through Tokyo station, make some time to eat at the Ramen Street or any of the
myriad of other good restaurants, all underground. Or satisfy your shopping craving by going to Tokyu
Hands in Shibuya or Mandarake in Akihabara, or go vintage and record store hopping in Shimokitazawa.
Alternatively, head to Nakano Broadway for some more indoor shopping and Madarake stores full of
figurines and otaku gear. Check out Super Potato in Akihabara (they close at 8pm) or go directly to the
Mikado retro arcade in Takadanobaba for the evening.

Itinerary 4: the eager explorer

(This section was written and graciously shared by Redditor GenesAndCo)
Walk around and have a sushi breakfast at Tsukiji Fish Market. After, walk (11min) over to Hamarikyu - a
large Japanese seawater garden. Explore and have a mid-morning tea and cake at the a teahouse in the
middle of one of the lagoons. From inside the park you can take a water bus either up the river to Asakusa
or into the bay to Odaiba.

If you choose Asakusa, you can visit Sensoji Temple and the surrounding markets. It's a short walk over to
Kappabashi Street, full of specialized stores for dishes, pots, pans, knives and plastic display food. Take
the 30 minute talk, or 5 min train, over to Ueno Station. There you can visit museums or the zoo in Ueno
Park and explore the busy backstreets of Ameyokucho. After Ueno, or if you decide to skip Ueno, take the
train a couple stations south to either Akihabara, if that's your thing, or Yurakucho/Ginza, if you're more
into seeing Tokyo's upmarket shopping district. Have dinner in a fancy place in Ginza, or a hole in the wall
in the nearby salaryman dining district of Shimbashi.

If you choose Odaiba, you may want to spend a couple hours relaxing at the natural Oedo Onsen before
exploring all the island offers. Or go for the fun futuristic things to do in the museums. When you are done,
take the yurikomome line back to Shimbashi and either head up to Ginza or Akihabara from there.

Itinerary 5: the prolific photographer

Check out the Shopping for Cameras section below.

Itinerary 6: the foodie shopper

(This itinerary was modeled after the one available on web-japan.org)
Start at Ginza’s Hibiya park where you start your day on the quiet side. Take Miyuki-dori towards the
Sony Building, where you can wander in to try out some of their latest gizmos and gear. There are a

8
couple of art galleries in the area, if that fits your fancy. Amble through Chuo/Ginza-dori (if it’s the
weekend, the road is closed to vehicles) before arriving at the Hakuhinkan, Japan’s oldest toy store with
tons of odd things to spot or buy. For lunch pop into the Rice Gallery (closed Sun/Mon) before getting lost
inside the Wako Building and its surrounding department stores. If you’re feeling a bit peckish, try the
bakery adjacent to the Wako Building. Make your way eastward along Harumi-dori towards the Kabuki-za,
or northwestward towards the historic red brick Tokyo Station. Dive into the Marunouchi Building for a
wide range of dinner options.

Itinerary 7: day trips

Several day trip ideas from Tokyo include Kamakura, or a hike up Mt. Takao or Mt. Ashigara near
Hakone. You’ll definitely want 2 days if you want to visit Nagano, the Izu Islands or Nikko, though you can
potentially squeeze it all in if you rushed through. Kyoto requires at least 2 full days, ideally 3, especially if
you want to include a side trip to Nara.

What’s Near Where

Use this as a rough guide of what’s near each other to maximize your time in one area of Tokyo.

Northeast Southwest West Central-west Central Southeast

Asakusa, Shibuya, Shinjuku, Roppongi, Tokyo Station, Odaiba, Tsukiji

Ueno, Omotesando, Nakano National Art Ginza, National
Kappabashi, Meiji Jingu, Center Museum of
Tokyo Sky Yoyogi Park, Modern Art
Tree, Harajuku,
Akihabara, Shimokitazawa
Tokyo
Metropolitan
Art Museum

General Cultural Thoughts

There are some general things that might serve as a brief introduction to the culture and life of Tokyo as
well as the 9.1 million (2014) people who occupy its 23 wards or municipalities. That pans out to about
37,000 people per square mile, though this pales in comparison to the 70,000 or so per square mile in
Manhattan. Housing costs apparently average around $7,600 per square foot, which is nearly twice that of
the Big Apple.

Area/Space
Space and land is pretty much at a premium in Tokyo, and as such there is a lot of attention paid to
maximizing the use of small spaces and keeping areas generally clean. For example, if you couldn’t afford
the space or the plumbing for a wash basin next to a bathroom, you could just add a small spigot at the top
of the tank that would spew out clean water when you flush, with the leftover water filling the toilet bowl
tank.

Cleanliness
The finickiness surrounding cleanliness comes from the fact that homes have tatami (rice/rush straw)
9
flooring, which can hardly afford your dirt and grime on the bottom of your shoes (which is why you’ll want to
take off your shoes when you enter someone’s home, always).

Vinny writes:
In addition to homes, there may be other businesses or buildings where you should take off your shoes. As a rule of
thumb, if you have to step up to go into a room, you should take off your shoes. Also, be aware that you may need
to take off your shoes in many temples.

This philosophy translates well to the outdoors, where you’ll notice pretty immaculate subway platforms,
trains, and pavements. There aren’t that many garbage bins, however, so the expectation is that you’ll take
it with you and throw things away at home.

Politeness and Meiwaku

Japanese folks can be polite to a fault, and people apologize for pretty much any indiscretion, however
minor. Case in point: “we truly apologize for the delay caused by a man who fell ill at Iidabashi station”.
Apologies don’t correlate with the person apologizing making any particular amends, however, which is why
it can feel a bit hollow to foreigners. An ounce of politeness on your part will go a long way, whether it be a
short bow or a smile. Another recent insight I had was the desire on the part of the Japanese to avoid
meiwaku (迷惑), loosely translated as “bother” or “nuisance”. You don’t want to be in a position to cause other
people trouble or more work just for you. So you’re always in a constant state of vigilance, checking to see if you’re
causing more work for others around you, and trying to mitigate those as much as possible.

Following Rules/Groupthink
Even as a Japanese national some aspects of the unquestioning, rule-abiding Japanese person can be particularly
infuriating. The Japanese equivalent to “the nail that sticks out gets hammered” (出る杭は打たれる) really does
discourage any deviation from the norm. If 7 in a party of 8 state they want a beer, it really doesn’t matter if you want
one or not - just order beer as well. Similarly, a friend of mine was asked to remove her PC power plug from a
Starbucks cafe where she was drinking coffee simply because “it was against the rules”. Really?

Tatemae/Hon-ne
One particularly interesting aspect of Japanese psychology arises from the need to “save face” by providing
a different set of opinions in public and in truth. Tatemae refers to this public behavior and opinion that a
person will profess to have, while they may secretly harbor completely different opinions, which manifest
themselves in their “true self” (hon-ne). You wouldn’t want to embarrass someone by saying to them “wait,
you just contradicted what you told me yesterday!”, because they may actually be maintaining a facade for
others.

Tokyo (Kanto) vs. Osaka (Kansai)

There are some interesting nuances and differences Tokyo and Osaka, stemming from the way Japanese is
spoken, to the side people pass each other on the escalator. The general sense is that Osaka-folks are a
down-to-earth, lively, a little rough around the edges and more frugal, whereas Tokyo-folks will try to at least
appear a little more sophisticated and refined; a bit stuffier, if you will.

Media Consumption
It’s particularly telling to note that of the top 10 highest circulated paid newspapers in the world, 5 are
Japanese. Most newspapers have both a morning and evening edition, and you’ll see many advertisements
on the subway for weekly magazines adorned with scantily-clad women. There are quite a few concerns

10
about Japanese media in general -- the use of kisha-clubs and the lack of international focus -- but
regardless, consider Japan to be a highly media-saturated country.

Before Getting In
There are some things you can’t do if you’re a foreigner unless you do it outside Japan. The big part is
purchasing a JR Pass if you decide to travel outside of Tokyo. Also, consider checking if your credit or debit
card provides ATM withdrawals without fees. Credit unions and Capital One or Charles Schwab Visa are a
few that I know of that have that feature. You will want to have some cash on hand as well, or traveler’s
cheques.
See also: JR Pass, Money Stuff

Budgeting
If you expect to be visiting museums or tourist attractions, they will cost on average about ¥1000~¥1500 per
person. You can purchase a Grutt Pass at one of 75 museums (see Grutt Pass) for ¥2000.

Food is relatively cheap. If you really want to swing things very cheaply, you can pull off not being hungry
with about ¥1500 per day (¥300 for breakfast, ¥600 for lunch, ¥600 for dinner, all with stuff from the
convenience store), but if you want to make sure to have enough money to enjoy a good Japanese
meal/restaurant/izakaya once a day, factor in about ¥3000~¥4000. Some places, especially those places
that provide beer and food, will put in a cover charge to your meal - don’t feel duped if you see a cover
charge.

If you get a small bowl of edamame or peanuts as you sit down, chances are there’s a cover charge.

Transportation isn’t cheap and can add up pretty quickly. Since the fare is calculated by distance between
departing point and destination, a two-or-three stop trip on the subway will set you back ¥170, with the
average about ¥300 each way (if you have to transfer between subway systems, it adds up even more). If
you plan your trip wisely, you can get away with a maximum ¥1000 for travel each day. If you plan on doing
a lot of traveling, consider getting a day pass, though those have travel restrictions that are sometimes more
of a headache than they’re worth.

Also check your bank to see if they levy a fee for withdrawing money at a foreign ATM.
See also: Money Stuff, Trains and Subways

Dress
The Japanese dress pretty much according to Western fashion, though women do wear skirts and heels
much more than their American counterparts (regardless of weather). For women, exposed shoulders or
chest area are pretty rare even in Tokyo, and instead more revealing clothing tends to be short jeans, or
skirts. Having a shrug or cardigan can be useful in many situations.

Business attire typically means suit and tie, even in the summer. In fact, it’s only in the last couple of years
where businesses have advocated “Cool Biz”, or allowing people to either wear short-sleeved collared shirts
and/or remove their tie, in an effort to decrease air-conditioning usage indoors.

11
Driving
You cannot drive in Japan with only a US driver’s licence. International Driver’s permits obtained outside of
Japan can be used, but not for extended periods of time. In order to complicate things even further,
International Driver’s permits from some countries (France for instance) are not valid in Japan. Driving is on
the left side, with the driver’s wheel on the right. No right turns on red are allowed. Public transportation
provides more than enough for getting around Tokyo.
See also: Trains and Subways

New Years and Holidays

Japan gets particularly quiet during New Years, with most businesses closed for December 30, 31, January
1, 2 and 3 (the Tokyo Stock Exchange is closed January 1, 2, and 3). Some museums close during this time
as well so be sure to plan ahead.

If you’re in town during New Years, be on the lookout for fukubukuro (福袋), i.e. “lucky bag” which are basically
bags with unknown items inside sold at a steep discount. For example, you might pay ¥1,000 for a bag with a
certain theme (like “electronics” or “menswear”) - you might not necessarily know what’s inside, but the total
value is always more than ¥1,000. Another staple of the New Year is the Hakone Ekiden, where college runners
run a relay from Tokyo to Hakone and back. Lastly, hatsumoude (初詣), the first visit to a temple of the year, is
a big deal, so if you spot lots of people carrying what looks like wooden arrows with bells (hamaya 破魔矢 - “evil
destroying arrow”), just retrace their steps and pay respects to the local spirits and deities.

Japan has a relatively large number of public holidays (see Wikipedia article), which is basically an excuse
for overworked salary-men to relax with their families - all at the same places. Golden Week, which is
usually towards the end of April to the beginning of May, designates the cluster of several public holidays
that allow most to take an entire week off. Visiting touristic places on public holidays will almost certainly be
a crowded affair.

Kentucky Fried Christmas

A rather interesting holiday ritual appears to be the purchase and consumption of KFC during the Christmas
holidays. KFC’s history page claims that in 1974, a foreigner visited the Aoyama store asking for chicken
because they couldn’t find turkey to cook for Christmas. An enterprising manager decided to turn this into a
12
campaign, and it’s been running ever since.

Earthquakes
Japan lies on tectonic territory and earthquakes are a common occurrence. As a result, Japanese
infrastructure in preparation for earthquakes is perhaps one of the best in the world - any building built after
the 1981 building code revision must withstand a Shindo 6 magnitude earthquake without collapsing.
(Japan doesn’t use the Richter scale, but the Shindo scale is out of 7). A nationwide early warning system
will dispatch warnings to desktop clients and dedicated receivers up to 30 seconds before a large
earthquake, and TV programmes will regularly have a text overlay providing up-to-the-minute information
about earthquakes.

If you’re particularly concerned, download Yurekuru Call from the App store or Google Play, which will warn
you of an earthquake. If you feel one, stay calm and check your exit paths by opening doors and avoid
places where furniture can shift or items can fall. If you’re in a highrise or hotel, wait for the PA system to
kick in and tell you if you need to evacuate.

Getting In
Tokyo has two international airports: Narita Airport (NRT) and Haneda Airport (HND). Narita used to be the
main international hub for Tokyo and services ANA, Delta, JAL, Nippon Cargo Airlines, and United Airlines.
Narita also happens to be really far from the city centre. Haneda is mostly used for domestic flights, but
recently opened an international terminal. Delta also uses Haneda. Both airports provide free wi-fi.

Haneda vs. Narita

Haneda is much closer to central Tokyo than Narita, and as such fares are much more reasonable and
there’s less of a headache to get to the airport. Consider, for example, getting into Roppongi:
1. Get to Grand Hyatt using Limousine Bus: ¥1,100 as opposed to ¥3,100 from Narita or
2. Using the Haneda Monorail (faster): ¥490, walk to Daimon/Hamamatsucho station and take the
Oedo line to Roppongi (¥190)

Most convenient: Limousine Bus

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 http://www.flickr.com/photos/trubble/32294114/sizes/m/in/photostream/

If you have a lot of luggage or are headed to a downtown hotel (like the Tokyo Prince Hotel), the easiest
way to get from Narita to central Tokyo is to take the Airport Limousine Bus. The cost is ¥3,100 and will take
you from the terminal straight to pretty much any of the larger hotels in town, and it takes about 1.5 hours to
get into the city. There is plenty of luggage space below the bus and the attendees and bus drivers will help
you load/unload your luggage. The limousine bus also offers transportation to and from Haneda airport, as
well as to the airport from any of the hotels you’re dropped off at.

Narita Express
A faster option is to take the Narita Express Train run by Japan Rail (JR), which takes approximately 1.5
hours, depending on what station you get off at. If you are going straight to Roppongi, I would recommend
taking the Narita Express to Shibuya and taking the bus from Shibuya directly to Roppongi Hills. However,
be sure to note that only select Narita Express trains stop at Shibuya so be sure to check the schedule
beforehand. If you are traveling with a lot of luggage, I would recommend the Limousine Bus since you will
not have to worry about transferring. You must be fairly quick about getting on and off the trains since they
run on a timed schedule.

Cheapest: Keisei bus

The Keisei bus system has implemented a cheap and no-frills option to get into Tokyo from the airports. A
direct bus to Tokyo station will cost ¥900 (as of this writing). A return bus also runs from the drop-off point.
Reservations for the return are recommended, as seats for the ride back fill up quickly and free slots are
provided on a first-come, first-served basis.

Fastest: Keisei Line Skyliner

The fastest option is the Keisei Line Skyliner, which takes 41 minutes to arrive at Ueno station and costs
¥2,400. However, depending on where you are headed, Ueno may be slightly out of the way. There’s also
14
the Keisei Access Express (62 minutes) and the Keisei Main Line (70 minutes), which offer cheaper fares
but with more stops along the way. The last train out of Narita on the Keisei Main line is at 11pm.

Staying
There are several types of hotels and accommodations you can find in Tokyo and in its surrounding areas.

● Hotel - your normal, Western-style hotel. New Otani, The Capitol Hotel Tokyu, the Ritz-Carlton, the
Grand Hyatt fit into this section. Restaurants within these hotels in Tokyo are among the best, and
sometimes grab a Michelin star or two. Prices per person per night rarely dip below ¥10,000.
● Business hotel - these are the no-frills, bed in a box type hotels with chain names like Livemax,
Super Hotel and APA. They cater towards business people and if you don’t ask for a non-smoking
room, you might end up with a rather smelly set of clothes by mid-morning. Prices range between
¥5,000 and ¥10,000 per person per night. On the cheaper end of these, bathrooms may be shared.
Meals are rarely offered.
● Love hotel - if you’re staying in one of these, you might have a partner (that you might or might not
want to have the rest of the world know about) or you’re really desperate. These places typically
charge by the hour or block of time (e.g. 90 minutes) and are pretty shady.
● Capsule hotel - these are quite the experience and perhaps worth a try once. These are gender-
separated capsule blocks in which you can crawl into and grab some sleep, drawing the curtain
behind you while you try not to suffer from acute claustrophobia. Fancier places have little TVs you
can watch too. (¥2,000-¥5,000 per person per night, no food offered)
● Ryokan （旅館）- typically Japanese-style tatami and futon bedding. Can be drafty and cold in the winter,
hot and unforgiving in the summer, but you get a rather authentic and unparalleled experience often
supplemented by the kindness of your hosts. Prices can range from the mid-¥7,000 to ¥10,000 per person per
night, which often can include a nice evening meal and breakfast.
● Minshuku (民宿) - these are what would otherwise be referred to as guesthouses - they feel like rooms
you’ve rented from a friendly neighbor. Expect tatami and futon bedding. Places like the island of
Oshima have lots of these. Prices rarely exceed ¥5,000 per night.

Getting Around
Addresses
The Japanese address system differs starkly from those in the United States or Europe, with the general
idea that a Japanese address identifies a particular building by geographic regions that decrease in size,
starting by prefecture and ending with the building name (see this Wikipedia article). An unfortunate
consequence is that addresses that look close numerically aren’t necessarily close geographically. As a
result, finding a location by address requires nothing less than a through map, and most businesses or
homes will help reduce confusion by highlighting the nearest subway station.

When selecting a prefecture in a dropdown menu online, most Japanese websites will order prefectures by
geographical order (north to south) rather than any phonetic order.

15
Trains and Subways
The main form of transportation around Tokyo is by train and subway. There are two main subway services,
the Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway. Because these subways are run by different companies, transferring
between these services requires you to pay and pass through a ticketing gate before transferring - if you
use a Suica card, you get a discount on your second leg when you transfer. There are day passes as well
that cover both subway systems, which go for ¥900. Prices for individual tickets vary depending on how far
you plan to travel. Also, depending on where you want to go it may make more sense to walk to a different
subway station even though you’re right in front of one, so make sure to plan accordingly.

Once you’re on the subway platform look for yellow signs indicating which exits are more suitable for which
destinations. They can save you quite the hassle or confusion!

East Japan Railway Company (JR East) operates trains throughout Tokyo as well as part of the shinkansen
network. Note that the Shinkansen going to Osaka is not operated by JR East, but by JR Central. If you decide to do
some traveling, the shinkansen is a great option but is fairly expensive. You can purchase discount shinkansen tickets
at special discount ticketing shops throughout Tokyo called 金券屋 (kinken-ya) or チケットショップ (chiketto-
shoppu). Another less comfortable, but much cheaper option is to take an overnight bus, called 夜行バス (yakō
basu); check out the Overnight bus section below.

See also: Shinkansen, Suica and Pasmo

Japan Rail (JR) Pass

If you are foreign passport holder and currently live outside Japan, consider using the Japan Rail (JR) Pass
if travelling a fair amount outside of Tokyo. This pass is allows for unlimited travel for a certain number of
days. The pass covers many Shinkansen as well as certain local trains, buses and even ferries. However, it
can only be purchased before you arrive in Japan. Plan on purchasing the pass at least several weeks in
advance so that it arrives before your departure. Note that you do not actually receive the JR Pass in the
mail. Rather, you receive a coupon that you trade in for the JR Pass on the first day of travel. The primary
station in the larger cities will have a specific location where you can receive your JR Pass. If you are
unfamiliar with the station, I would highly recommend that you arrive early to find out where you can trade in
for your JR Pass. Finally, it is important to be aware that the trade-in locations may open later and/or closer
earlier than the rest of the station or ticketing booths.

Another pass useful for Tokyo is the Tokyo Free Kippu, a 1-day ticket covering most trains, subways and

16
bus running in the city (but NOT the trains getting to the airports). The pass can be purchased in advance at
a Midori-no-madoguchi. JR East also offers its own pass, valid only for its network, covering Tokyo and the
northern half of Honshu.

Google Maps covers transit for the subway and bus systems within Tokyo.

Like many major cities, the subways and trains in Japan typically stop running between midnight and 5AM, so be sure
to plan accordingly. The last train is called 終電 (しゅうでん, shuu-den).

Train types
If you take any of the suburban trains you’ll quickly notice there are different classes of trains. Make sure
you know which stops your train stops at before boarding.

Photo by shunanrail

These trains are faster by skipping certain stations along the route. In order from fastest to slowest:

特急, tokkyu Limited Express

準特急, jyun-tokkyu Semi Special Express

急行, kyuukou Express

区間急行, kukan-kyuukou Semi Express (trains that run express during some
stretches of the route, and normal at other
stretches)

快速, kaisoku, Rapid Service

occasionally 通勤快速, tsuukin-kaisoku Commuter Rapid Service

普通, futsu, Local (stops at every station)

alternatively 各駅停車, kakueki-teisha

Bus
The bus system is slower than the trains and road traffic gets especially congested during rush hour.
17
However, this is the most convenient and direct route to travel between Roppongi and Shibuya and a fun
way to discover the city. There is no direct route via the train or subways and the bus stop for this bus is
located in Roppongi Hills. This takes approximately 12 minutes (depending on traffic) and costs ¥200.
However, be sure to note that buses stop running much earlier than trains.

18
Taxis
Taxis can feel expensive but they average out about
the same as NYC or London on a typical length ride.
Rates start at ¥410 for the first 1km and ¥80 for
about 200m thereafter or 1.5 minutes in traffic
(though this differs slightly between taxi companies).
For example, getting from Haneda airport to
Roppongi Hills costs ¥6200, and from Narita you can
expect to shell out about ¥24,000. Prices go up about
20% between 10pm and 5am. Rear taxi doors open
and close automatically using hydraulic actuators, so
your driver may say something to discourage you
from reaching for the door handle. There aren’t any
significant differences between taxi companies.

The red sign 空車 and a lit top bar indicates the car
is free. If you see 割増, it means increased fares are
in effect (since it’s late).

Suica and Pasmo

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrjoro/6495843317/sizes/m/in/photostream/

I highly recommend purchasing a SUICA or PASMO card. These cards are a rechargeable contactless
smart cards used for train fares. Without this card, you will have to purchase a train ticket each time you
board. This can be time consuming especially during rush hour since you will have to wait in line. Also,
these cards will automatically take care of your transfer fee if you transfer from one train system to another
(because sometimes you’ll have to exit a turnstile in order to get into another). There is no difference
19
between the Suica or Pasmo card and are just owned by different companies (There may be the rare case
in which only one card is accepted at a particular store, but I have never had this problem and you will not
have to worry about this if you are using your card for transportation). You can purchase or recharge these
cards at the traditional ticket booth where you would normally buy a subway ticket.

These booths have an English guidance option, so purchasing tickets should not be a problem. If and when
you buy them, you can choose to have your name printed on them (Personal PASMO) so that you and only
you can use it, and you can have it reissued if you lose the card. You can choose the General (non-
personalized) card without any problems.

Both cards require a ¥500 deposit, which will be refunded when you return the card. These cards are also
accepted on the bus as well as some combini’s (convenience stores), stores, and vending machines. The
minimum recharge amount is ¥1000, and only cash is accepted.

Transportation out of Tokyo

Shinkansen

Photo by megawheel360

The bullet train, shinkansen (新幹線) is the pride of Japan and epitome of a smooth and extremely efficient
transportation system. There are three main train corridors extending from Tokyo - southwestward on the
Tokaido/Sanyo line (split at Osaka), northward on the Tohoku line, towards Aomori and Hokkaido, and
westward on the Joetsu line, towards Niigata.
20
Pricing for the trains differ largely on speed, with names for each train segment and service.

Name Destination area Speed JR East Pass valid?

Nozomi Westward to Osaka, ~300km/h No

Hakata

Hayabusa Northward to Shin- ~300km/h Yes

Aomori

Hayate Northward to Shin- ~270km/h Yes

Aomori

Hikari Westward to Osaka, ~270km/h No

Hakata

Yamabiko North to Morioka, semi- ~240km/h Yes

fast

Kodama Local westward, ~210km/h Yes, for northward

northward

There are several other regional shinkasen networks: Kyushu, Hokuriku, Yamagata and Akita.

Prices can be on par or slightly more expensive than flying, but the trains are extremely punctual (a 2003
report by JR Central apparently claimed that average train arrivals were within 6 seconds of their promised
time).

One particular part of the shinkansen experience is the ekiben (駅弁, “station meal”), which are basically
lunch packs that you can buy on the train platforms or even within the trains. They cost about ¥1000 but
they’re worth every penny, and since you really can’t get your hands on the authentic stuff outside of the
train system, they’re really worth a try.

21
 A gentleman orders ekiben at the Sendai station before his train ride. Photo by Rio Akasaka.

Overnight bus
There is a fairly extensive overnight bus network in Japan, and Tokyo is well-served by buses that travel
north and south. They are exceedingly cheap: a Tokyo-Kyoto bus ride leaves Tokyo station at 10 and
arrives at Kyoto at 6 for a total cost of ¥2700. The same path would take 2 hours and 20 minutes by
Shinkansen and cost you ¥12,710.

Look for buses that have 3 seats per row (3−列車, san-retsusha) instead of 4 (４−列車 yon-retsusha) if you want any realistic
amount of sleep. San-retsusha buses usually have bathrooms inside and will only stop at highway stops to give the two drivers
some time to rest, which means it gives you more peace and quiet because people won’t be shuffling down the aisles to get off
as they would in a yonretsu-sha. Drivers will stop in either bus arrangement about every 2 hours, but the 4-row bus is a bit more
cramped.

Check out bushikaku.net for a good hub for searching for overnight buses.

Flights
Low-cost domestic carriers include
● Skymark
● Jetstar
● Peach
● AirAsia
● AirDo

22
Neighborhoods
As with any metropolitan city, Tokyo’s neighborhoods tend to have their own unique flavor and crowd - this
fact is made even more evident by the fact that each neighborhood seems to be ringed by residential areas,
effectively cordoning off the fun parts and the quiet parts of town. This first section is about the
neighborhoods everyone asks about -- as a result, they’re much less “uncharted” than the ones that follow
(“Other neighborhoods”).

Harajuku
Harajuku is overrun by high school girls and cosplay fans, making it an ideal spot for people-watching. You’ll
likely want to swing by Harajuku if you like shopping. Takeshita-doori is a narrow stretch of stores that runs
from Meiji road to Harajuku’s JR station, and there’s a ton of accessory stores, music stores and creperies.
Good luck trying to get by the crowd on the weekends!
See also: Shibuya, Daiso Harajuku

Omotesando
Shibuya, Harajuku and Omotesando form a triangle around a vibrant and multifaceted neighborhood, with
Omotesando bringing the up-scale crowd with brand-name boutiques and niche restaurants -- particularly
around Omotesando Hills --, for which at around lunchtime you might expect long lines. One particularly fun
stretch of road between Omotesando and Shibuya has a bunch of fun stores -- including a candy workshop.

It’s worth noting that the fabled Omotesando Koffee has closed. A sister store, Toranomon Koffee is now
open.

Shibuya
If you do decide to go from Harajuku or Shibuya to the other, it may be fun to walk through Yoyogi park as
well as the Meiji shrine inside. Another suggestion would be to go window shopping through Omotesando.

23
One suggested route between Shibuya, Omotesando and Harajuku. This is an easy, ambling 30 minute - 1 hour walk.

Shibuya’s claim to fame is the scramble crossing (or massive intersection where hordes of people cross the
road at the same time) - it provides ample opportunities for people-watching. In terms of stores in the area,
look out for Tower Records, for any and all kinds of music. There’s also plenty of department stores, like
109, Lumine, Seibu for clothes and fashion shopping. For those into crafts and DIY, the Tokyu Hands
store is a required stop - you’ll find 8 floors of materials from clock hands to carpentry (there’s 3 mezzanines
for each floor, making it a total of 24 flights if you want to see it all. Loft (unrelated to the clothing retailer)
nearby has stationary, gifts, and lots of good quality stuff. If you're a clothing maker, go across the street to
Yuzawaya, a great resource in the city for knitters/crocheters.

Remember most stores in Japan open at 10 am.

If you’re looking for the quintessential touristy thing to do here, though, head for the Akita dog statue,
Hachiko. Legend has it that the loyal dog waited for his master for years at the station, even after his
master passed away. It’s now a popular meeting point, right next to the incessantly busy Shibuya
crossing. But you wouldn’t need to spend more than 5 minutes there, unless you use it as a
waiting/meeting point.

See also: Harajuku, Tokyu Hands

Alternative/Indie Music
Contributed by dokool, on reddit

Shibuya is also one of the centers of the alternative/indie music scene in the city. In Dogenzaka there's O-

24
EAST/WEST/NEST/CREST and Duo Music Exchange as well as Club Asia and Bar Come On Rock, then in
Center-gai you have Club Quattro, Cyclone up on Spain Street, and then across from Tokyu Hands up on
the hill is a building with half a dozen livehouses (Chelsea Hotel, Star Lounge, GAME, Milky Way, AUBE
and one or two more).

Then around the corner from that are Rock no Cocoro and Rockaholic, two very well-known music bars. A
couple streets down are the flagship stores for RUDIE'S, SKULLSHIT, and ROLLING CRADLE, three of the
most influential street clothing brands in Japanese punk.

And if you go up the hill to CC Lemon Hall, you'll also find Shibuya Eggman, the livehouse that got on the
news post-3/11 after Fox News mistook it for a nuclear reactor. Shibuya AX is up there as well but that's
basically on the way to Harajuku.

Roppongi
Some say Roppongi is the area where expats go if they don’t want to feel like they are in Japan. Roppongi
is popular for being a mecca for nightclubs, restaurants and izakaya (drinking/eatery), as well as the
massive Roppongi Mori Tower which occupies a big portion of a dainty district called Roppongi Hills. You
can go to the top of Mori Tower for a fantastic vista over the city (¥1500 for Tokyo City View, another ¥500
for the Sky Deck). One big discount chain store called Don Quixote (see “Shopping”) stocks a lot of things,
from foodstuffs to regular household items. The place definitely comes alive past sundown.

A good place to eat here is Gyobao, which serves thick dumplings, and Afuri, which serves ramen infused
with yuzu, a type of Asian citrus fruit. Ippudo is also a nice choice.

Tokyo Midtown is short walk from Roppongi, a glitzy shopping/hotel/park/museum complex that seems to
cater to the baby-toting nouveau-riche. (“Oh look, I can take a cooking class on the first floor!”)

Akihabara
Akihabara (you’ll find signs at the train stations referring to the “Electric City”) hosts thousands of electronics
stores. If you’re into gadgets and/or newfangled tech be sure to swing by. You may want to check prices
online beforehand, however, as they might be marked up simply because you’re in Akihabara. The other big
draw of the area is the otaku culture and various related stores (like maid cafes), even though it's no longer
anywhere close to as interesting as it used to be now that the Sunday pedestrian walk is heavily policed and
restricted.

Sadly, much of the activity in Akihabara shuts down at 8pm, so don’t expect a lot of stores open past this
time.

25
Legend

1. Maid Cafe Shatz Kiste - library themed - 30 minutes 500 yen with free Ceylon tea and Wifi
2. Cafe Mailish - traditional maid cafe
3. Cosplay Izakaya Little BSD - cosplay themed and probably more active in the evenings
4. Cat Cafe Nyanny - cats galore
5. Nagomi Cafe - themed maid cafe with the occasional darker twist
6. CURE MAID CAFE - slightly anime-focused and slightly hard to find
7. Don Quixote Akihabara - a collection of the most random stuff you could ever want.
8. Maid cafe At Home - 600 yen entry fee, traditional maid cafe with perhaps better support for
foreigners?
A. Akizuki Electronics store
B. Tsukumo Robot Kingdom
C. Gundam Cafe and AKB48 Cafe
D. Yodobashi Camera electronics store

Not listed on map but take the street immediately westward of the #7 mark: Mandarake (see below).
Number 9 has no meaning.

Manga, anime and retro games

26
If you’re looking for retro games, try Super Potato, where they have NES and Playstation games,
accessories and the like (the top floor has retro arcade games). See the Retro arcade games section of this
guide as well. Mandarake and Radio Kaikan should also be on the list of places you visit for all things
anime and manga.

Akihabara Radio Center

Right close to the Yamanote and overground railway tracks there’s a veritable maze of electronics parts, old
or antique electronics gear. You’ll want to check out the second floor as well. To get there, take the Electric
city exit from the JR line station and head for Aoki (see online map here). It’s just under the green railway
bridge.

See also: Purchasing online, Ikebukuro, Bic Camera, Retro arcade games

Ueno
Ame-yokocho (“Candy Alley”)
Ame-yokocho (historically, アメヤ横町) is a open-air street market selling a lot of stuff in general, though its
popularity is more around food. Prepare to spend a bit of money on things if you’re hungry, and prepare to be squashed
by the throng.

There’s also the Ueno Zoo.

27
Asakusa
Ueno and Asakusa are about a 20 minute walk from each other. Kappabashi-doori is also within walking
distance.

Hanayashiki
Japan’s oldest amusement park, with Japan’s correspondingly oldest roller coast. It’s fairly small, though, so
don’t come expecting a Six Flags in the middle of Asakusa. Rides cost a dirt-cheap ¥100, admission is
¥900. You may want to check out the Ghost Mansion as Japanese lore around ghosts/apparitions/demons
are pretty interesting. See park map.

Sensoji
Sensoji’s first temple was built in 648, making it the oldest in Tokyo. If you’re here around May, make sure
to check out the Sanja-matsuri, which attracts upwards of 2 million visitors from around the country.
Otherwise, take a walk through the imposing temple structures and check out the food and souvenir stores
on the nakamise-doori, a road leading out of the temple. You may be scolded if you walk down the pathway
while eating - the pathway to the temple is considered somewhat sacred - so eat in front of stalls or dip into
a side street.

If you get bored, consider popping into the new Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center - its purpose is a bit
vague, but at least it’s a bit cooler in the summer and has a free observation deck.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryy71/723679643/sizes/m/in/photostream/

Ningyoyaki is one of those things you’ll want to get your hands on while you’re here.
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3001.html

See also: Tokyo Skytree, Sample Itineraries

28
Shinjuku
Shinjuku is very much the business center of Tokyo, with impressive skyscrapers reaching high into the sky.
One of them that might be good for the budget conscious visitor is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government
building, which has a free observatory on the 45th floor of both the North and South Towers. On a clear
day you may catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji. At least one of the observatory towers is open until 11pm - confirm
opening hours and dates before going. http://www.metro.tokyo.jp/ENGLISH/TMG/observat.htm

If you’re interested in travelling the underpasses criss-crossing Shinjuku station, you’ll also find a pathway to
Odakyu department store, where can take an elevator ride with uniformed women who will give you pointers
as to what to find on each floor.

Omoide yokocho
Yakitori alley, or omoide yokocho (“remembrance alley”, sometimes derogatorily referred to as しょんべん横丁, or
“piss alley”, owing to the fact that 20-30 years ago drunkards would do their business on the streets) harkens of post-
war Tokyo and is filled with small bars and narrow food places, many of them providing some tasty yakitori. Great
place for some evening food and drinks, but don’t expect the folks there to speak English. The bar ALBATROSS is
pretty neat as candles and chandeliers adorn its interior. Expect to pay there about ¥700 per drink and ¥300
for a cover charge.

Photo by the author

See also: Yakitori

29
Kabukicho
Kabukicho (lit. kabuki city) is Tokyo’s sleazy area, famous for a lot of seedy activity going on behind the
colorful banners and restaurants that line its streets (the Japanese mafia doesn’t hide the fact that its
presence is known all throughout Kabukicho). You won’t see prostitutes, because the Japanese are far too
discreet, but if you’re looking for love hotels, massage parlors, nightclubs, or anything to entertain any fetish
of yours, take a slow stroll through Kabukicho. If Kabukicho doesn’t satisfy your desires, try Googling for
“Gotanda”.

If you’re in the area, you can also check out the Robot Restaurant (see Themed and strange restaurants).

There are fake establishments called bottakuri bars (“con bars”) where establishments will charge an unsuspecting
customer tens of thousands of yen for drinks or massages. Beware of being roped into a place without knowing what
you’re paying. (Read more)

Tokyo Station
Tokyo Station is really a city unto itself, and marks the destination and arrival point of some 400,000
travelers every day, right behind Shinjuku and Ikebukuro stations. Situated in an otherwise relatively bland
business district of Marunouchi between Ginza and the Imperial Palace, what it may appear to lack on the
outside -- except for a beautifully restored brick exterior -- it more than makes up for inside and
underground. Several buildings surround Tokyo station, including Kitte (the old post office building) and
Marubiru, all of which are multi-storied establishments full of good food and stores. One of the highlights of
Tokyo station is Ramen Street. There are 8 different ramen restaurants tucked away in a corner of the
station, all of which have queues around peak time.

If you get disoriented, remember there are basically two sides to the station: the Yaesu exit and the
Marunouchi exit. The Marunouchi exit is close to Kitte; Yaesu exit is where Ramen street is.

30
Ginza
Situated on the southeastern section of Tokyo, Ginza is famous for restaurants, coffeehouses, and high-end
department stores. On one intersection you’ll find Louis Vuitton, Chanel, a glitzy Apple Store, and plenty of
similar establishments. Mitsukoshi and Matsuzakaya are two popular department stores. If you’re here,
keep an eye out for one of Ginza’s most famous landmarks, the Wako Building. Nearby are the homes of
some of Tokyo’s largest department stores, like Mitsukoshi, Matsuya and Matsuzakaya.

The home of kabuki theatre, the Kabukiza, is visible along Ginza’s biggest road, Harumi-dori.

Food recommendations here are Tonkatsu Bairin and the Manneken Belgian waffle store (note there are
usually lines)

See also: Kabuki

Ikebukuro
Towards the northwestern area of Tokyo sits Ikebukuro, a busy shopping hub that offers both brand-name
items as well as large electronics stores like Bic Camera and Labi. The electronics here tend to be slightly
cheaper than Akihabara. There are no less than 3 large department stores within walking distance of the
train station, and Sunshine City offers a wealth of entertainment (like an indoor theme park) without ever
having to set foot outdoors.
31
Odaiba
Odaiba/Daiba has made a name for itself as the one-spot solution to shopping, games and futuristic
imagination on an artificial island facing the Tokyo Bay. In addition to Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo’s largest
conference hall, there’s the Miraikan (Japan's National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation) and
two corporate innovation showrooms - one for Toyota, and another for Panasonic. There are more or less 3
main sections, as illustrated in the map below:
● Palette Town/Mega@Web has the giant ferris wheel, Leisureland (more arcade games than you
can ever want) and a Venice-themed shopping arcade.
● Diver City - where the Gundam statue stands.
● Decks / Seaside Mall - Madame Tussauds, Legoland the okonomiyaki museum, retro game center
(Haikara Yokocho), and Joypolis, an indoor amusement park, and a beautiful view of the Rainbow
bridge
There’s also an onsen theme park called Oedo Onsen Monogatari, which is about a 15 minute walk south
of Diver City, or accessible from the Tokyo Telecom stop on the monorail. It’s a fun experience -- they rent
out yukata for you, and there’s a central area where you can eat and have fun while wearing yukata. You
can then go either outside for the outdoor foot baths, get a salt bath, or go to the onsen.

See also: Onsen

32
 Photos by the author

See also: Yurikamome, Onsen

Daikanyama
There’s a big Tsutaya bookstore that’s worth a visit, not merely for its architectural amazingness, but to
marvel at the book-adoring culture that is Japan. There’s two buildings full of books and magazines, CDs
and more.

Other Neighborhoods
Tokyo is gigantic and diverse. Even if you spend a whole week in the city, you’ll just barely scrape the
surface of what it has to offer. Below is a selection of a few interesting places to go beyond Shinjuku,
Shibuya or Akihabara and get a better grasp of the pulse of the city.

Kagurazaka
Kagurazaka is a small neighborhood sandwiched between Waseda university and the Yasukuni shrine. I like
Kagurazaka for the mere fact that the stretch of road connecting Kagurazaka station and Iidabashi station (Waseda-
dori) is full of fun knick knacks that aren’t tacky or touristy. Think lacquerware, kimonos, second-hand books, good
food. There’s a store called the Neko no Yuubinkyoku (猫の郵便局, “Cat’s Post Office”, website) that sells nothing
but stationary and goods related to cats.

33
Shimokitazawa
A wonderful and very hip neighbourhood in western Tokyo which can easily be reached from Shibuya
station by train (5 min away). The area has for several years in a row been voted one of the most attractive
areas to live in for young people. The area is full of small shops, cozy cafes, vintage clothing stores and
fashion boutiques. It is a great place for shopping as well as strolling around on the weekend.

A good coffee spot can be found at Bear Pond Espresso. If you like My Neighbor Totoro there’s a small
bakery that sells pastries in the shape of Totoro, but they sell out incredibly quickly so I’d call ahead.

Photo by the author

Sugamo

34
The area immediately surrounding Sugamo station is filled with fun businesses and stores, and can be a
worthwhile detour if you’re looking to enjoy a lazy afternoon away from the hubub of tourists and noise.
There’s a section of Sugamo called the Sugamo Jizo Shoutengai, highlighted in read above. It derives its
name from the largest temple in the area, the Kogan-ji. Legend goes that in the 18th century when the wife
of warrior by the name of Tamura Matashiro grew ill, he dreamed that he should float 10,000 paper
drawings of a buddha down the river to cure her. It worked. The temple was completely destroyed in the air
raids of WWII, so this one’s a reconstruction from 1957. You can read more about my visit to the area in this
image album.

Legend:
1. Sugamon duck tail
2. Shinsho-ji temple
3. Kogan-ji temple
4. Maruji red clothing store
5. Tokyo Melonpan bakery
6. Shimizu tatami store

Yanesen and the University of Tokyo

The Northeastern side of the Yamanote area, West of Ueno, is made up of three quiet and old
neighborhoods currently going through a very strong revival: Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi, collectively known
as Yanesen. A large cemetery in Yanaka, temples, wooden houses, but also newly set up designer studios
and cafes dot the whole area, allowing for very rewarding walks through smaller streets. In the heart of the
place runs a small winding street, Hebimichi (snake-street). The street is the site of a former river, hence
its very peculiar shape. Several fashion shops are located along the street. A little on the West is the large
and beautiful Nezu Shrine. In April, the Shrine is packed with photographs for a major festival of Azalea, as
35
a good part of the shrine is planted with colorful flowers. South of the shrine is the main campus of the
University of Tokyo (Todai), by very far the most renowned university of the country. The campus can be
freely accessed, and has a few interesting sites. Not the main entrance, but the most famous one is the
photogenic Akamon (red door), where many students and aspiring students will take the pose. Same goes
for the Yasuda auditorium. Go there during the week, mix with the students, feel the vibe.

Yasukuni shrine and Yushukan

Very close to the geographic center of the Yamanote line lie the quiet grounds of the Yasukuni Shrine.
Here are enshrined millions of soldier who fought for their country since the Meiji restoration, including
soldiers who died during WW2 and war criminals condemned to death at the Tokyo trials after the war.
Visits by officials are always a cause of major frictions with neighbouring countries. The main building is a
large but agreeable shinto shrine. Note nonetheless the large Chrysanthemums on the entrance door, the
Imperial Seal of the country, as well as the huge toori towards Kudanshita. Flea markets are held twice
every month on Saturday on the large alley leading to the shrine. Yushukan, the oldest military museum of
the country, is on the grounds of the shrine. There is a zero fighter is on display at the entrance on the non-
paying part of the building. The museum is extremely interesting, with a few controversial statements (to say
the least).

Remember that the Yasukuni Shrine is both a religious and private place, and that right-wing nationalists
who often roam the place will not be a problem if you do not provoke them.

Shibamata
On the Northeastern outskirts of Tokyo proper, Shibamata is a lively district remnant of the old Edo. Similar
in a sense to Asakusa, but less “foreign tourist” oriented, Shibamata is centered around a pedestrian alley
bordered with old wooden shops (most of those offering traditional food) leading to a temple, Shibamata
Taishakuten. It can get very busy in the weekends, but usually not at the crowd-control levels Asakusa can
reach. The district is also very famous in Japan as being the stage of a film series in the 1960s, Otoko Wa
Tsuraiyo. A statue of the main character of the movies, Torasan, can be found just at the exit of the train
station.

Jinbocho
Do you like books?

The Imperial Palace

36
 Image courtesy of the Imperial Household Agency

Museums and Touristy Stuff

Of course there are plenty of quirky museums you might not find elsewhere, so a visit might be worth your
time.

Grutt Pass
A Grutt Pass (gurutto means “all over”) costs ¥2000 and is valid for 2 months from the date of purchase. It’s
a good deal that likely pays off with three or four visits to museums (for example, the National Science
37
Museum, Ueno Zoo and the Miraikan each cost ¥600 each to enter). Check out which museums are free
with the pass and which provide discounts here: http://www.rekibun.or.jp/grutto/pdf/grutt_pass2014.pdf

Until January 31, 2016, you can buy a combined Tokyo Metro One-day Open Ticket and Grutt Pass 2016 which is
a discount coupon book that contains admission tickets and discount coupons to 78 art galleries, museums, zoos,
aquariums and botanical gardens around Tokyo. You save about ¥600. More details here.

Nightlife
See also: Kabukicho, Roppongi

Yurikamome
The Yurikamome line is a monorail system that connects Tokyo with Odaiba. While the line connects
Shinbashi on the west with Toyosu on the east, if you’re interested in neat view of downtown Tokyo and the
Rainbow Bridge, start from Shinbashi - the other end is pretty boring and barren.

Yakata-bune

http://www.flickr.com/photos/selena/4748775485/sizes/m/in/photostream/

If you’re looking for an evening boat ride down the river banks of Tokyo, the yakata-bune is your destination.
¥14,000 will get you a bus ride from your hotel to the boat, and with drinks and a full dinner to accompany
the ride. It’s definitely a lot more fun if you go with a group. The author has been on the one run by Nakakin,
which isn’t terrible (serves sashimi and tempura). There’s also one run by Hatobus:
http://www.hatobus.com/en/course/jc02n.html

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Studio Ghibli Museum
If you’re a fan of Hayao Miyazaki or any of his movies (Spirited Away, Totoro), this museum is a must. As a
particular highlight, you get to watch a movie that’s only viewable within the museum. You’ll have to
purchase tickets at a Lawson convenience store though, for a specific date and entry time range. The
museum is about 45 minutes from Shinjuku on the JR Chuo line, which makes it a bit of a trek. Tickets for
adults are ¥1000 and sell out fast - think about a month in advance if possible. If you end up being stuck
without tickets, you can try to get them at ¥2500-3000 each on ticketcamp.net, or try your luck on craigslist.

The area immediately around it, Kichijoji, is really lively at night with a great restaurant and izakaya scene,
so it might be worth staying around in the evening after your visit, especially if you’re a bit tired of the
overpriced areas in central Tokyo. No photographs are allowed inside.

Edo Tokyo Museum

If you’re a big fan of large, expansive dioramas with miniature figurines of the bygone era, the Edo Tokyo
Museum is a great place to spend a morning.

Tokyo Tower
This is the big red Eiffel-tower lookalike. ¥1600 for a trip all the way to the special observatory. There’s a fun
trick art gallery at the foot.
http://www.tokyotower.co.jp/english/

Tokyo Skytree
Boasting a height of 634m, the tower is currently the world's second tallest structure after the Burj Khalifa.
It’s ¥2060 to go up 350m, or ¥2570 if you book in advance (which lets you bypass the waiting line to
purchase tickets, which on occasion might be more than an hour). You can purchase tickets (¥1030) to go
up another 100m. http://www.tokyo-skytree.jp/en/reservation/

Taking photos of Skytree

If you want to take good photos of the building without being up close, the river Kitajikkengawa (北十間川) near
Oshiage subway station is a good start for unobstructed views (see Google Image results).

Odaiba Ferris Wheel (Daikanransha)

The ferris wheel in Odaiba is apparently one of the world’s largest ferris wheels, after the London Eye, and
takes 16 minutes to go once around. Tickets cost ¥920.

See also: Odaiba

Things (Some) Locals Do, See and Eat

Capsule hotel

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 http://www.flickr.com/photos/shotsbydan/453816262/sizes/m/in/photostream/

A capsule hotel is so-called because it’s literally a capsule with enough amenities to let one sleep. It was
popularized by drunken businessmen (salary-men) who would miss the last train home and would have to
spend the night to put their stupor to rest. One capsule hotel that seems decent is Hotel Siesta in Shibuya.
A room costs ¥3500 per night.

Another great capsule hotel is 9Hrs - http://9hours.jp/ - in Kyoto, which is located right in the center of the
city. It is cheap, clean and a lot of fun to stay in. It has also won design awards for its minimalistic design.

Pachinko

40
Stressed out from work? On a lunch break and craving something relatively mindless to entertain you? Try
your hand at pachinko - a somewhat uniquely Japanese hybrid of slots and pinball. You’re only allowed to
get prizes or medals at the actual store, but there are special stores nearby that will take your prize and give
you cash. Ask for these or look for a map at the prize counter.

Protips
dokool says: I won't offer too much tactical advice because I only play one type of machine and YMMV, but
here's basic instructions for tourists:
1. If the parlor is empty, GTFO. If nobody is playing a certain type of machine, avoid it. Look for parlors
running a promotion on a certain type of machine (Umi no Monogatari, Evangelion, etc) and play
that if there are any machines available.
2. Shit is loud and smokey. You've been warned.
3. Most of the time, any machine based on a foreign license (like Spiderman or LOTR) will be a money
pit.
4. Only put in the amount of money you want to use. If you just want to do it once for kicks, 2000 yen is
enough. If you actually want to try to win, up to 10,000 yen.
5. Above each machine there's a little LED display that tells you how many spins there have been since the last
jackpot（スタートから＿＿＿＿スピン？ Each one writes it differently), how many jackpots today/last
few days, and other stats. I generally try to sit down at machines with higher spin counts (400+).
6. Realistically you get a couple 'chances' to win every 100 or so spins. Sometimes your machine will
make all sorts of noises, show you all sorts of neat things on the monitor, tell you to push buttons,
maybe vibrate a little, and essentially cocktease you with the appearance that you're about to win...
and then you don't. Shit happens.
7. If you get one jackpot and see 確変 show up on the screen, that means you're guaranteed to get another
jackpot, so keep playing and hit the CALL button above you so that a staffer can change your tray out for an
empty one. Proceed until #8.
8. If you don't and get some other screen with a countdown timer, you may have X number of spins
with an elevated shot at another jackpot. If this happens just play through until the timer runs out and
then proceed to #9.
9. When you decide you're finished playing and you've won, call a staffer and make the × sign with
your hands and they'll count up all your balls and give you a receipt. A good rule of thumb is that 1
tray = 4000-5000 yen depending on the establishment.
10. Take the receipt to the prize counter and say nothing when you give it to them. They'll give you a
bunch of plastic cubes w/ gold leaf embedded in them. If you have balls left over they might ask if
you want snacks, drinks, or cigarettes to use your balance.
11. Once you've gotten your medals, find the TUC shop nearby. It's always around the corner or down
the street from the parlor, never on a main street. Ask a staffer (if you don't speak Japanese, just
show your medals and look confused) and they'll give you directions, or if they're super-nice walk
you there.
12. At the TUC shop, put your medals into the sliding tray; the staffer there will take them, count'em, and
give you your cash.

Combini

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 http://www.flickr.com/photos/46319764@N07/5082492825/

Convenience stores (combini) in Tokyo are quite the unique experience because they offer so much in the
way of lunch food and great bread and other knickknacks. You can literally feed yourself decently for about
¥1000 a day. Drop by any of the following: 7-Eleven, Lawson, FamilyMart, Sunkus, Daily Yamazaki.

Things you can do at a combini

Pay your utility bill Make photocopies, scan, fax

Buy museum/highway bus tickets Withdraw money from an ATM

Pay taxes Buy stamps/Mail packages

Pick up orders from Amazon Buy food and drinks

Print photos from USB Read magazines for free

Resource (Japanese)

Sumo
Clearly I don’t enjoy sumo that much. But if you do, here (will update more later).
http://www.sumo.or.jp/en/ticket/year_schedule

Redditor madd0g11 writes:

When there are no tournaments on, you can go to the sumo stables and watch beast men slam each other and train
5 feet away from you. I used this service when I took my friend.

Tsukiji
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To be fair, the folks who do wake up at 3:00 am to go to the Tsukiji fish market to see the live tuna auctions
tend to be tourists. Classify the tuna auction to be something you do once but maybe not more. The
atmosphere and the food there is a fairly unique experience that can be taken for granted by the millions
who eat sushi every day. Besides, if you get to the market early, you can also line up again to grab fresh
sushi for breakfast (mind you, they’re not particularly cheap). The security guards at the entrance don’t like
it when large groups go into the market area at once - if you sense a bit of resistance, divide larger groups
into smaller 4 or 5-person groups and stagger your entry into the market.

The two popular -- and increasingly touristy and somewhat overpriced -- places are Daiwa Sushi and
Sushi Dai. Unless you’re first in line before the store opens, expect anywhere from 1 to 3 hours of waiting
for either of the places, and bring cash (¥3000 should be adequate). Read up on some Redditor’s
comments on both establishments.

If you’d rather not go for sushi, try the cream stew at Senriken (センリ軒) - they’re supposed to be really good.
If you want to have some truly tasty curry, head to Toyo-chan - prepare to feel a bit rushed, though - there’s
a lot of people in line usually and people really go in and out fast!

The line for the tour starts forming at around 3:30 am near the Kachidoki gate corner- be there early (your only
transportation option is a taxi), because only the first 120 are admitted! You get a vest to wear and are taken to the
observation area around 5:30, so you have some time to catch a quick nap in line. The main market area opens up
at 9 am.

Dagashi
Dagashi refers to candy from the late 19th and early 20th century - they’re very simple and relatively
unglamorous, but they really do either emulate or maintain original processes from decades ago. You can
try your luck at finding some at Kagurazaka or even check out the Dagashi-Game-Hakubutsukan:
http://dgm.hmc6.net/miyamotochou/ (now with a ¥200 entrance fee). There’s a decent one at Odaiba too,
on the 4th floor of the Seaside Mall, which is much closer. Get off at Odaiba Keihin-Koen station on the
Yurikamome line. Beware, though - these businesses are rapidly closing down and genuine old ones are
harder to find.

If you’re really interested in these, check out the entire Confectionery Row in Kawagoe (about an hour and
a half west of Tokyo by train).

Matsuri

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 http://www.flickr.com/photos/gadgetdan/4934840690/sizes/m/in/photostream/

Matsuri - festivals - are popular summer activities that take place over several days. They really start picking
up after May. Usually there is the carrying of the mikoshi, or portable shrine (more formally, a divine
palanquin), which is a symbolic gesture of “moving” a deity from the main shrine to a temporary one during
the festival. You’ll also want to try your hand at some of the games, which can be genuinely old-timey -
prizes tend to be food or trinkets. Some festivals will have a corresponding fireworks show. Watch out for
the Sanja Matsuri at the Asakusa Sensoji in May, and the fireworks during the summer.

● Dezome-Shiki - fire review (January 6, 2015) at Tokyo Big Sight - watch a fantastic firefighter’s
parade as well as firefighters climbing bamboo ladders Edo-style.
● Yabusame - horse archery at Kamakura (throughout the year)
● Meiji Jingu Spring Grand Festival (April 29 - May 3, 2015)
● Sanja Matsuri (Mid-May 2015)
● Kanda Matsuri (3rd weekend of May)
● Hozuki-Ichi at Sensoji (July 9, 10, 2015)

More up-to-date resources

● http://www.iexplore.com/travel-guides/far-east/japan/events?page=2
● http://www.gotokyo.org/eventlist/en/list

Ennichi
Ennichi is more or less a fair, and the one at the Fukagawa Hachimangu area has one on the 1st, 15th and
28th of each month. Look for the stalls selling snacks or knick-knacks!
http://www.fukagawa-kanko.com/midokoro/ennichi.htm

Fireworks - “hanabi”
The largest of firework events during the summer in Tokyo is the one over Sumida River, the world’s oldest.
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It is planned for July 25, 2015. If you’re to miss this one, don’t fret. There’s another in Yokohama - the
Kanaga Shimbun Hanabi - which takes place early August.

Onsen
Oedo Onsen Monogatari is a fairly modern and popular destination for folks who can make their way out to
Odaiba. There are a couple more listed here. There aren’t that many places within Tokyo with good onsens,
however, so it’s best to make your way out into the surrounding prefectures, like Kinugawa, Atami,
Hakone - all about 3 hours away -- or even make an excursion out of it (especially in the winter months) to
places like Beppu and Nozawa.

Onsen do’s and don’ts

● Do wash very carefully outside the main bath area, before going in, using plenty of soap.
● Do keep quiet.
● Do relax - a friendly face goes a long way.
● Don’t bring in any soap into the water.
● Don’t wrap towels around your waist (they’re typically not big enough, anyways).
● Don’t wring or dip towels with the water in the large bathing area - keep the towel on top of your
head or near the edge of the bathing area.
● Don’t go in if you’ve got any large tattoos. There’s an association of tattooed individuals with the
yakuza (Japanese mafia), so it’s entirely within the onsen’s right to refuse you entry if they notice
you’re wearing tattoos.

Kabuki/No
Kabuki shows usually run in the matinee or evening hours and go from 40 minutes to an hour and a half.
The author finds them incessantly boring, but if you’re one for cultural enrichment, spot a kabuki show with
an English audio guide companion and enjoy the stories rich in history and symbolism at the Kabuki-za in
Ginza.

Flea market
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Tokyo’s largest outdoor flea market takes place within the parking structures of Ooi-keibajo, on the grounds
of the horse-race track. There are approximately 600 vendors selling everything from antiques, pots and
pans, used cameras, clothing, and much more. To get there you need to get on the Tokyo Monorail and get
off at Oi Keibajo Mae.

Fake Food
You can’t walk around looking for restaurants in Tokyo without spotting food samples that look eerily
genuine. They are often made using wax, and you can venture out of Tokyo to learn how to make your own.
You can browse a good selection in Kappabashi-doori, though.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/roboppy/145916234/sizes/m/in/photostream/

To get to Kappabashi Kitchenware Town, take the Tokyo Metro's Ginza line to Tawaramachi, one stop
before Asakusa. Walk four blocks west and turn right at the chef's head.

Alternately, head towards Maiduru (pronounced “maizuru”) for a collection of food samples you can buy:
http://www.maiduru.co.jp/ (see map here)

There are two establishments in the general Tokyo area that provide “fake food” classes:

● Ganso Sample-ya has a space near Oshiage station, close to the Sky Tree. Courses are 2,160 yen
per person and include making two tempura items. Bring a Japanese friend.
● Further out of town near Kita-Ikeburo is Yamato Sample. There are more varieties of things to make
and you can book them individually via the Veltra site. Prices vary by item.

Themed and strange restaurants

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If you’re looking at a fun, safe for work themed cafe, try The Lockup in Shibuya. The overall theme is a
dungeon where monsters roam about and you’re kept in these dungeons for your own safety. You get
appropriately themed drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) as well as food, though it sometimes tasted more
like sugary water. The crowd can be somewhat heavy on the teen “I’ll go here to be scared with my first
date”.

You can head towards Robot Restaurant (Shinjuku Kabukicho, ¥6000 admission, 18+, 60 minute show) for
some mildly NSFW entertainment. It’s more of a cabaret show than a restaurant, mind you, so go with the
crowd that doesn’t mind a few scantily clad women and lots of robots and noise. Check the back of
Metropolis or att.Japan magazines to see if there’s a ¥1000 discount coupon.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/nov/27/tokyo-theme-restaurants-japan-food

Other recommended places are Kagaya and Zauo, where you get to catch your fish and eat it too.

http://www.timeout.jp/en/tokyo/feature/9112/Tokyos-strangest-restaurants

Cat cafes, rabbit cafes, penguin bar

There are quite a few establishments dedicated to furry animals wandering (or hopping) around while you
take pictures or maybe actually try to grab a bite to eat. Most of these are in Akihabara. Note that the author
didn’t have a particularly pleasant experience at a rabbit cafe -- the rabbits are kept in a set of cages until
someone asks to play around with one. This was ostensibly because rabbits usually aren’t terribly nice with
each other, but it wasn’t what the author expected.

There’s a penguin bar in Ikebukuro as well.

See also: Akihabara

Romantic spots
I have no idea what would constitute a romantic spot in Tokyo, but here’s a good website to give you ideas:
http://japanesense.wordpress.com/2012/12/01/top-7-most-romantic-places-in-tokyo/

Retro arcades
In recent years a lot of retro arcades have closed, including the Shibuya Kaikan Monaco and Game Corner
Micky in Jimbocho. I’ve been to the ones rated below.

Super Potato Akihabara

Open every day until 8pm. 3 floors, bottom floor has old games consoles for sale like NES, second floor has
portable game units like Game Boys to buy, and the 3rd floor has retro arcade games you can play, though
a limited variety compared to Mikado. The entrance is a bit hidden, so look for the entrance here:

47
 Mikado
Open every day until midnight, by the Takadanobaba train station on the Yamanote line, a couple of pinball
machines. I liked the immersive movement games. Second floor has more hardcore games, and it’s a bit
smokey. Lots of variety.

Photo by the author, at the Takadanobaba game center “Mikado”

Try Amusement Tower near Suehirocho station

5 floors of games, open every day until midnight or 1am. One floor of retro arcade games, lots of dance and
music-related games on other floors.

48
 Hey
Open every day until midnight, very close to Super Potato. There’s one floor with retro games, though most
of them are vertical flying shooters. The other floors are normal arcade games, and it can get a bit smokey
as well.

Natsuge Museum
Open Friday - Sunday and holidays typically until 11pm Friday, 10pm Saturday and 8pm Sunday. Check
hours before going though. On the other side of the tracks near Akihabara, it’s pretty small, but it bring back
memories of the real deal, boys-from-the-neighborhood feel, complete with super cheap snacks. Quite a bit
of variety, including the flat tabletop kind

Buying games
If in addition to playing some of these games you’re interested in buying some, there are only three stores I
know that sell things like old game consoles or GameBoys.

● Super Potato - the most comprehensive with even some playable arcades on the top floor.
● Retro Game Camp this one’s close to Hey and about a 10 minute walk from Super Potato (photo of
entrance below)
● Game shop Friends there’s two floors; the bottom has GB games and the like, the second floor has
shelves of PlayStation games. Not the best selection.

49
Food and Drinks
Most of the food establishments in Tokyo are ranked on Tabelog, Japan’s Yelp equivalent. Gurunavi also
exists, but the former is more popular. This guide from Mark Weins is an excellent read.

See Wikipedia articles linked for literal descriptions. I’ve added the nuances you might not find there.
Restaurants don’t take tips. Some establishments will put up a cover charge (izakayas, for example, go up
to about ¥500 per person). Also, if your waiter doesn’t seem to be interested in picking up your tab, it’s
because you’ll have to pay at the front of the restaurant.

Yakitori (やきとり、焼き鳥)
Grilled chicken on bamboo skewers. Also found under the category of kushiyaki (skewered grilled items).
There are a variety of pieces to choose from. Be prepared to decide whether you want it seasoned with salt
or with tare, a thick sweet soy-based sauce. About ¥140 per skewer - start off by ordering 3 or 4 while
enjoying some good draft beer.

Okonomiyaki (お好み焼き)
Literally, “as-you-like-it-grilled”, a grilled pancake consisting of mostly lettuce, and subsequent portions of
pork, green onion, and anything else you fancy (see Wikipedia page). Nearly always comes slathered in
mayonnaise. Popular in the Osaka/Kyoto region. It can feel pretty hefty for a meal, but since it’s bulk is
lettuce, it makes for a nice lunch item. Have some fun by looking for places that will make it right in front of
you.

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Protip: the Tokyo variant of okonomiyaki is monjayaki (or monja for short) and a popular area to find a
wide variety of monja stores is in Tsukishima on the Oedo and Yurakucho lines.

Takoyaki (たこ焼き)
It sounds less appetizing when you call them “octopus balls”. Gindako is a pretty popular chain that serves
takoyaki on the go.

Sukiyaki (すき焼き)

Sushi (すし、寿司)
The Sushi Menu book app ($3.99) is a good reference to know what you’re ordering and how to eat.

Sashimi
Just the fish.

Makizushi
Sushi wrapped in seaweed - comes in rolls. California rolls don’t exist in Japan.

Kaitenzushi
Sushi that comes on a conveyer belt. This is a pretty fun experience in and of itself - you pay for the
sushi that you pick off the conveyer belt, and each plate the sushi is on is usually color-coded by
price so that you can tell if a particular sushi is cheaper or more expensive than you’d like.
Kaitenzushi is often considered a lower quality sushi-eating experience by locals.

Nigirizushi
What you would normally assume to be sushi. Fish on top of rice. Usually comes in pairs.

Chirashizushi
A type of sushi meal that consists of a variety of sashimi on top of rice. Usually comes in a box.
Chirashi means “scattered”, and thus indicates the variety that comes with ordering one.

Inarizushi
A roll of rice wrapped in abura-age (油揚げ), deep fried tofu slices.

Read up on Jiro’s Sushi (Sukiyabashi Jiro) and plan ahead at least a month before considering going. In the
author’s opinion Jiro’s is a bit overhyped, but not having been there it’s pretty much hearsay.

Curry-Rice (カレーライス)
Japan has a rather unique curry culture that is relatively different from India’s. The curry tends to be thicker
(and occasionally sweeter) and comes on top of Japanese rice, not Thai or basmati. There’s usually
crunchy red pickled cucumber and radish (fukujinzuke, 福神漬) as a relish.

See also: Tsukiji

Omu-Rice (オムライス)
Another Japanese favorite is to wrap rice with a thin layer of lightly fried egg. The kind of Omu-rice
51
(omelette + rice) that I like has a ketchup or tomato-sauce flavor.

Noodles
Soba そば、蕎
Buckwheat noodles, more or less gray in color. The Japanese consider them to be more of a
lightweight snack material rather than a meal. Can be served hot or cold. Soba served cold comes
with dipping sauce (tsuyu).

Protip: Ask or look for soba-yu, which is the water the soba is boiled in, to pour into your dipping
sauce. Doing so waters down the saltiness of the dipping sauce and makes a nice drinkable soup.

Yakisoba 焼きそば
Fried ramen-style noodles. Typically spotted at food stalls during festivals and outdoor events. May
also be found in sandwiches or with ramen replaced by udon noodles, which becomes yakiudon.

Udon うどん
Thicker wheat noodles. Typically served warm, though can be appreciated cold as with soba. Sanuki
udon is a variant popular in the southern prefecture of Kagawa, with a distinctly chewy consistency.

Somen そうめん、素麺
Super thin wheat noodles - more popular towards the southern part of the country. Typically eaten
cold. Nagashi-somen is a fun deviation where restaurants serve somen on bamboo flutes with
running water, and you pluck somen from it as they travel downward.

Tsukemen つけ麺
Tsukemen isn’t so much a type of noodle as it is a way to consume it -- by dipping warm or cold
noodles into a broth. The kinds I’ve often had were ramen noodles with a thick, rich broth.

Hiyashi-chuka 冷やし中華
A summer staple, hiyashi-chuka is cold ramen noodles with garnishes (typically sliced cucumber,
ham, egg) dribbled over with a semi-sweet watery, soy-based sauce.

Ramen ラーメン
Shio 塩、しお
Salt-based soup, pale, yellowish. Usually with a lot of vegetables.

Shoyu, 醤油、しょうゆ
Soy-based soup, darker brown.

Tonkotsu, 豚骨、とんこつ
Pork bone broth, milky brown. Richer, buttery flavor. Sometimes referred to as “Hakata
ramen”, from the region where it was first popular.

Miso, 味噌、みそ
Miso-based soup. Richer in flavor - a northern favorite.

Oden (おでん)
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A Japanese equivalent of a pot-au-feu - think of a stew with all sorts of things (daikon, konbu, egg,
konnyaku) simmering for long periods of time. You can find these in 7-Eleven when the weather gets colder.

Tempura (天ぷら)
Battered and deep-fried vegetables or shrimp. Dip them into sauce before consuming with rice. You can
start your hunt for a good tempura store with Tennichi in Ginza.

Tonkatsu (とんかつ)
Breaded pork cutlets with a side of cabbages. Go to Tonkatsu Maisen or Bairin. If you’re not a strict
vegetarian, I promise you you won’t regret going.

Drinks
See a wonderful list here. When drinking alcoholic beverages in the company of others (especially
Japanese), be sure to serve others rather than yourself. The way to say toast is kanpai!

Sake
Japan’s most widely-known alcohol - rice wine. 10~20% alcohol content.
Shochu
Made from barley and sweet potato. 25% or greater alcohol content, less fruity than
sake.
Chuhai
Shochu + High ball = Chuhai. 5% alcohol content
Umeshu
Plum wine, popular with the ladies. Usually consists of sake and plum flavor.

There’s also quite a few nice craft beer spots around town. Craft Beer Market in Jimbocho or Toranomon
has a nice selection of Japanese beers.

Shopping
Japan’s business hours tend to be from 10am to 6pm.

Don Quixote (Donki)

Don Quixote, or more commonly referred to as Donki, is a discount chain store with stores all over Tokyo.
The one in Roppongi stocks everything from household items to foreign snacks to incense, and prices are
reasonable, if not the cheapest around. You’ll certainly find variety stocked from floor to ceiling, and it’s a
generally fun place to go to see what odd things you can find. It’s open 24 hours, no less. Take exit 6 from
Roppongi station on the Oedo line, and head towards Tokyo Tower.

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 http://www.flickr.com/photos/wallyg/5768399420/sizes/m/in/photostream/

Takeshita-doori
Takeshita doori is nearly 400 meters of shopping, anime, otaku, high school girls, crepe and random food
stalls. It’s worth walking through here once, since you’ll be close if you’ve visited Harajuku, Shibuya or
Omotesando. There’s also a big Daiso (¥100-yen) store here.

zedrdave on Reddit writes:

Takeshita Dori, while being #1 recommendation in practically any touristy blurb, is a completely overrated pointless
touristy trap. There is literally nothing to see there, except other tourists (in throngs), tacky souvenir shops selling
wacky "Japanese" t-shirts and the odd costume rental shop that you'd find in practically any mid-size city in the
world. It hasn't been "the mecca of Japanese fashion" or whatnot for a good 15 years.

If the crowds are a bit overwhelming the follow straight through to Ura Harajuku (the part of Harajuku after
Takeshita Dori crosses Meiji Dori). That's where the actual fashionable shops and cafés are, plus a bunch
of cool galleries (like the Design Festa gallery) and interesting buildings.

See also: Harajuku, Shibuya

100 Yen Stores - Daiso and Can Do

Daiso has been able to make a name for itself outside Japan as a bargain cheap Japanese-items store.
Daiso in Japan is a strictly 100-yen store business, and every item in the store is and will always be ¥100
(before taxes). While there are a couple around Tokyo -- there’s one in Shibuya -- the one in Harajuku is by
far the biggest. Look for it midway through Takeshita-doori - the easiest way is to get to Harajuku station
on the Yamanote line. Can Do is emerging as a decent competitor, though Daiso always manages to open
a more spectacular store near a Can Do (the one close to Tokyu Hands in Shibuya is a case in point).

Ochanomizu guitar street

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If you’re interested in buying guitars or perusing used and new accordions, guitars, harmonicas and/or
ukuleles, visit the Meidai Dori, a straight shot from Ochanomizu station and about a 10-minute walk from
Akihabara.

Electronics and cameras

Bic Camera, Yodobashi Camera, LABI

Logos here for easier recognition: from left to right, Bic, Yodobashi, Labi

These three stores all compete for the perennial Japanese electronics consumer, and while they all appear
relatively similar, my experience in each has been subtly different. To note:

1. Most of the larger stores are located in Ikebukuro, Shinjuku, Shibuya and Akihabara, and many
within walking distance of the other. There’s even a Bic-qlo (Bic Camera + Uniqlo) in Shinjuku where
you can by electronics and shop for clothes all in the same establishment.
2. Sometimes one store will be divided into separate buildings (館, “kan”) so that a particular building is for a
specific type of product (like cameras only, or PCs only). Maps on the ground floor near the elevators can be a
good way to determine if what you want can be found there.
3. The people who you see dressed up in jackets emblazoned with Softbank or au (cell-phone
providers) logos are still nonetheless store employees, so you can ask them questions too.
4. Buy your items on the floor you find them.
5. My experience buying camera equipment is that Yodobashi is a bit cheaper than Bic Camera.

Shopping for Cameras

If you’re looking for new or used cameras or camera accessories and equipment, there are really two good
options in Tokyo: head out west to Nakano and visit Fujiya, arguably the largest used camera body and
lens store, or check out these stores within walking distance of each other near Shinjuku station. You can
also sell or trade in your cameras here.

1. Camera Box - one of the best used camera stores in the Shinjuku area
2. Camera Ichiba - find older film cameras and gear like Rolleiflex.
3. Camera Lemon - on the 3rd or 4th floor (look for a lemon on a sign), mostly older dSLR
and film
4. Map Camera - a multistorey, relatively high-end film and digital camera store
5. Camera no Kitamura - there’s a used camera section too on the 3rd floor
6. Lucky Camera - sells medium format and film camera lenses. They’re a specialist of
international camera types.
7. Alps-do - a smallish used cameras outfit on the eastern section of Shinjuku station.
Slightly pricey, and the junk bin is really not worth rummaging.

Nisshin Camera in Akihabara is not worth the trek. The map below can also be viewed here.

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Bellamy Hunt from Japan Camera Hunter also has some great tips and ideas on his website. The Film
Shooters Collective has another great blog post on good haunts in the Tokyo area.

Tokyu Hands
Logos here for easier recognition.

Tokyu Hands is quite frankly the most amazing store ever (insert author bias here). There’s literally
everything and anything you could ask for, though the most impressive store is the one in Shibuya. Items
aren’t limited to household stuff - you can get craft tools and material, modeling equipment, repair tools,
toiletries, travel equipment - well, just take a look at the floor guide below (this map is no longer up to date
since they renovated, but it gives you a sense of scale). The one near Ikebukuro has a cat petting zoo
called Nekobukuro on the 8th floor.

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Beyond Tokyo

Beaches
One of the nicer beaches in the area is in Enoshima. It can get quite crowded during holidays, however.
You can bundle a trip to Kamakura (see “Kamakura”) and Enoshima together, and both have their own
beaches. Enoshima also has a few deep seaside caves that you can go inside and see small carved out
statues. These can feel slightly claustrophobic but are awesome visits if you’re tired of the beach.

http://www.secret-japan.com/forum/beaches-accessible-from-tokyo-t140.html
http://www.cnngo.com/tokyo/play/five-most-picturesque-beaches-within-day-trip-tokyo-739306

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Yokohama Chinatown
For a fun little half-day detour or if you’re just in for some good Chinese food and buying Indian souvenirs
and trinkets, consider a trip to the Yokohama Chinatown, which recently became exceedingly accessible
from Ikebukuro and Shibuya by way of the Fukutoshin subway line. The subway line automatically becomes
the Tokyu Toyoko line and then the Yokohama Minato Mirai line, so you just need to jump on the train and
go to the terminus, which is the Motomachi-Yokohama Chukagai station. Taking the limited express (特急,
“tokkyu”) will get you there in half an hour from Shibuya. At around the Lunar New Year time (February) there’s a
pretty serious street festival commemorating the holiday. The store selling India import stuff is called Cayhane.

Hikes
Mt. Takao, Mt. Ashigara.

Mt. Fuji

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Climbing Mount Fuji is almost a ritualistic event that elicits images of pilgrims making their way up holy
ground. In reality, the mountain is quite the physical hurdle that requires a lot of determination to climb.

Before going
Fuji-san is officially open from July 1 to August 31 and upwards of 400,000 people climb during
that period. This makes it one of the most crowded spots to visit, and as such, planning for it
requires a lot of preparing in advance. The two most important things that get filled up are: a way to
get there and a place to stay. Most places to stay in August will be full by the beginning of July.
Weekends are packed, while weekdays are relatively quiet. Weather is notoriously unpredictable.

Things you want to bring

Some of these things you can buy at 5th Station, and they aren’t terribly marked up.
● Rain gear
● Waterproof gloves to keep you warm: temperatures can get really chilly and may go below freezing
at the top
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 ● Trousers, shirts, socks - note that you can check things into a locker at fifth station if you do need to.
● Hat
● Sunglasses are a must because of brightness at the top, sunscreen
● Headlamp (better than a flashlight - some paths are really steep)
● Water - there are very few places if any to stock up on water
● Fleece jacket
● Plastic bag to carry your trash
● Energy bars or other snacks (but there is food at your hut, so no need to bring a whole meal)
● Toilet paper or tissues
● Hand towel
● Camera + extra batteries
● Stamps if you want to mail something from the post office at the top
● First aid items
● Coins - all bathrooms require a small ¥200 fee.
● Oxygen canister (optional - you can buy them on the mountain, but they get more expensive the
higher up you go)

Getting there
The Fujikyu and Keio highway buses leave Shinjuku Bus Terminal and get to the Fujisan entrance
for ¥1700 with about a two hour trip. You can take the train out there but it’s more trouble than it’s
worth, since even having a JR East Pass won’t cover one stretch of the line (Otsuki to Kawaguchiko,
at ¥1100 each way). The problem is that bus tickets for weekend trips to Fuji’s 5th station (which is
the recommended starting point) go really quickly, so be sure to reserve in advance.

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The highway bus stops for Mt. Fuji are a bit separate from Shinjuku station. Courtesy of highwaybus.com

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Nikko (日光)
Nikko is a fun full-day trip with trains leaving from Asakusa or Kitasenju station, taking about 2 hours to get
there on the Spacia express train (switching trains at Shimoimaichi). It boasts Tosho-gu shrine（東照宮,
¥1300 admission), the resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616), who was shogun (feudal lord/military dictator)
and who started the shogunate, a type of military government that would rule Japan for some 200 years. The five-story
pagoda (五重塔) is impressive and tours are occasionally made available inside. There are some notable shrines
nearby as well, all of which are impressive to walk around. Don’t forget your shuin-cho (stamp) book -- see
details within the Kyoto section for these.

The place becomes particularly beautiful in the fall, when the leaves turn color. The only problem is nearly
everyone else thinks the same. To prove this point, an October or November trip to Nikko will most
assuredly prevent you from visiting the other highlight of the area, Kegon-no-Taki (華厳の滝, Kegon Falls),
since the 50-minute bus ride is too full and it instead takes about 4-5 hours for that bus to make its way through the
only road that leads to the falls. As such, it’s advisable to make a two-day trip out of a visit to Nikko if you’re doing so
in peak season. Also be sure to reserve seats ahead of time, and not count on the local buses to get you around town
during the busy season, since it too will be late.

A nice complement to a two-day journey is a jaunt to Kinugawa-onsen, which takes about 20 minutes to
get to from Shimoimaichi) where you can dip into many onsens by paying a relatively small fee.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gcworld/530280710/sizes/m/in/photostream/

Kamakura (鎌倉)
Kamakura is a fun day-trip spot about an hour by train out of Tokyo. There you can go see the Daibutsu, the
large statue of the buddha, as well as a number of beautiful temples. The beach is also a short distance
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away, and you can also take the smaller “Eno-den” train that connects Kamakura with Enoshima.

There’s a promotion now available for an all-day pass called the Enoshima Kamakura Free Pass which retails for
¥1470 and gives you roundtrip fare from Shinjuku as well as free usage of the local trains in the area.

Getting there
Take the reserved-seating Odakyu Romance-car (“ロマンスカー”) from the West Exit in Shinjuku, which ends
up being about ¥630 each way (your destination is Enoshima/Kamakura). You also want to make sure you purchase
tickets for your ride back, as they get booked full pretty quickly and you’ll have to otherwise take the commuter trains
back. You can also take the commuter express local lines which are less expensive at about ¥560 each way. If you
want to go to Kamakura first, take the commuter to Fujisawa and change to the Yokosuka line (two stops from there)
at Ofuna.

The Great Buddha of Kamakura.

Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/nikurasu/5224560306/

Izu Islands (伊豆諸島)

The seven tiny volcanic islands that form part of the Izu island chain lies just about 120km hours south of
Tokyo, accessible by either an overnight boat or a jetfoil. The largest and easiest to reach is Oshima (大島),
with a population of just under 9,000, and about 9km across and 20km from the northern tip to the southernmost end.
Surprisingly, it still is part of the Tokyo prefecture. Oshima boasts a still smouldering volcano called Mihara, which
you walk around, and the island is also famous for its Japanese camellia plant and gardens.

The (apparently) most charming of them is Niijima, 40km further south, with hosts of onsen spots dotted
around the island. However, Niijima is harder to get to -- during the off season the only way to get there is
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via overnight boat that leaves Tokyo Takeshiba Ferry Terminal at 11pm and arrives at 7am. During the peak
season there are boats that leave early in the morning. Furthermore, the only way to get from Oshima to
Niijima is via the same boats that land in Oshima early in the morning. During the summer the jetfoil also
stops in Niijima. A one-way fare costs ¥5,420 to Oshima.

Buses and taxis are the easiest way to get around; bike rentals are available, occasionally. There are very
few of the conveniences you learn to take for granted in Tokyo to be found on these islands, so consider an
escape to the Izu Islands as a wonderful opportunity to indulge in a great view of the sea and a bit of quiet
reading or hiking, but not for a culinary experience or a fun night out.

Nagano (長野）

Highlights from Nagano prefecture include Matsumoto-jo (left) and the snow monkey park (right). Photos by the author.

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 This is admittedly a bit of a rushed itinerary but I'm
less and less interested in staying overnight in inns
and hotels in Japan, so I ended up doing the following
day trip to Nagano and Matsumoto.

5:30 Leave home and head towards Tokyo station.

6:16 Board the Hokuriku Shinkansen Kagayaki 501
towards Kanazawa (¥8200)
7:39 Arrive at Nagano. Transfer to the Nagano
Dentetsu train line towards Yudanaka transferring at
Shinshu Nakano (¥1160)
9:36 Grab breakfast. Board the bus towards
Kanbayashi (terminus, ¥310)
9:45 Arrive at Kanbayashi and follow signs to
Jigokudani (¥500). On snowy days it’s a slippery road
and the hike takes about 30 minutes each way,
including a couple lengths of stairs.
12:11 Leave Jigokudani on bus back to Yudanaka
(¥310). Grab lunch.

Instead of heading to Matsumoto, as I did below, one can take a more relaxed approach by going to the
onsen in Yudanaka. There are a good number of onsens in the area. Alternatively one can try to go to
Nozawa onsen too.

13:18 Leave Yudanaka on express line back to Nagano (¥1160)

14:05 Arrive at Nagano. Buy souvenirs -- apples (in all forms - KitKat, jam, cookies) from the area are
always nice.
15:00 Leave for Matsumoto on JR express line (¥3980)
15:52 Arrive at Matsumoto, head to Matsumoto castle, grab dinner. Soba is a particular speciality.
Matsumoto-castle entrance closes at 4:30pm, even though the place is open until 5pm.
19:46 Leave Matsumoto for Nagano (¥3980)
20:40 Arrive in Nagano
20:47 Leave Nagano on Kagayaki 516 for Tokyo on Shinkansen (¥8200). Arrive shortly after 10pm.

Osaka (大阪)
This “things not in the guidebooks” section has been submitted by matthewguitar on Reddit.

Climb the mountains to the east of Osaka.

Go to Shijonawate station and then walk east up the hill. The road will go straight up the hill from the station,
through some really ancient stone gates (that cars can still pass through) and then up some huge steps to a
temple. The mountain trail starts behind the temple.Takes about 1.5 hours to climb, bring water+picnic.
Beautiful views, temple, abandoned WW2 radio station at the top, cool samurai statue. No one speaks any
English.

Go to SPA-World.
4-floor onsen in Osaka. ¥1000 ($9) for the whole day. Greco-roman or asian theme, depending on the
65
rotation. Giant scented public baths, food, water slides, salt saunas etc. Nearest station Dobutsuenmae.
Nice to relax in after climbing the mountain. Some of the attendants can speak a few words of English.

Buy weird stuff.

21/22nd of every month, flea market in Shitennoji temple. Lots of weird curios to buy, cool food, turtles. Get
there early in the morning. Nearest station Shitennojimae-yuhigaoka. No one speaks any English.

Good bars in the city-center.

The best bars are in Namba/Shinsaibashi in the center. Umeda (the north of the city has some cool stuff,
but it’s not as good as namba). Most people you meet here will speak good English and can give you advice
on where to go. (to meet people)
● Balabushka - free pool/darts
● Cinquecento - everything is ¥500
● Pure - nightclub, all you can drink on the weekends. Warning: very sketchy.
● RockRock - tiny, very hard to find nightclub. On the 8th floor. Bands go here afterwards to chillout
after gigs. My friends and I have met members of Metallica and Limp Bizkit here. (to go to with
people after)
● L&L - shisha bar
● Oliveira - best burgers ever
● SpaceStation - computer game bar above oliveira

To stay in Osaka
Overnight Orange house (backpacker hostel) near Tennoji is good. Nearest station is Fuminosato. Entirely
traditional rooms, tatami matting, the works. The owner speaks English and there's a really cool rooftop
area that everyone has parties on. Good for meeting people.

Kyoto (京都)
If you’re interested in temples or a rich history of Japan with a smaller crowd, consider a 2 or 3-day side trip
to Kyoto, where life takes a slightly slower pace.

Getting there
You can get to Kyoto via overnight bus (check out Bushikaku) for ¥2500, leaving Tokyo at 11:15pm
and arriving at 6:20am if you book on the day you’re leaving. You can also use the shinkansen,
which takes a little over 2 hours, and costs ¥13,000 and up depending on speed.

Places to stay
bAkpAk Gion Hostel has rooms going upwards from ¥2000 a night depending on how
many people you’re willing to share the room with - it’s within walking distance to Gion and Gion
Shijo subway station (I stayed there).

Places to go
Before you do travel, you may want to consider renting a bicycle, as it is fairly cheap (going up from about
¥1000 per day) and it would help you get from place to place.

The following are some of my own personal thoughts when I visited (May 2012). I’ve tried to shy away from

66
historical facts and instead put in some of my interpretation. I’m also one who likes to visit places without
crowds of people to wrestle through. In order to succeed at that in Japan, you either have to be at an
attraction ridiculously early or late.

Most of the temples are not ADA friendly. Most temples close around 5pm, except those that are specifically
listed otherwise.

If you’re feeling particularly adventurous or just want to make me envious, get a hold of a shuin-cho at your favorite
temple (or the first one you visit). These booklets, sold at the same place where the omamori or protective charms
are sold, go for up to about ¥1000 each and are then stamped with the temple’s seals and inscription. The stamps
themselves cost ¥300 each. You can then take the book around with you in your travels across Japan and have
them stamped at each temple, like a zen-passport.

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 1. Kinkaku-ji - ¥400
Kinkakuji, not to be mistaken for Gingakuji, is the temple known for its gilded gold-leaf exterior. It gets
crowded pretty quickly (and especially with the shugaku-ryoko, the elementary/middle/high school kids who
travel from around Japan on their field trips), so be forewarned.

2. Ginkaku-ji - ¥500
Unlike Kinkakuji this sibling temple is a lot more subdued, but its raked garden and mountain path is nice
and picturesque.

4. Nanzen-ji - Free to walk around, ¥300-¥500 for inner areas

Nanzenji is a relatively calmer but nonetheless imposing set of structures on the southern end of the
Philosopher’s Path. The Nanzen-in was a bit of a disappointment, but if you read the description on the wall
to the left of the entrance (in the alcove) you might be able to get some more historical context.

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 6. Yasaka-jinja - open all day and night
A nice respite from the hubub of the Gion road, Yasaka is also very pretty at night.

7. Nijo-jo - 8:45-5pm, ¥600

Download an audio guide because you can’t take pictures inside Ninomaru, and the history behind the
building is a lot more interesting if you know what to look for. Ask me for a copy of my audio guide which I
can send your way. It opens at 8:45 and not a minute earlier, which means there’s going to be a crowd
wherever you go.

8. Nishiki Market - Free, not much to see or do before 8:30 or 9am.

Great food and great little things to supplement your lunch. You may want to do your souvenir shopping in
Gion, however.

9. Higashi and Nishi-Honganji - Free

If Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji are the glamorous, gilded siblings (or at least one of them is), then the Honganjis
are the imposing, hulkish brothers whose very presence is awe inspiring. Nishi (West) Honganji is a little
prettier and my favorite of the two, but they are both amazing for their lanterns, wide terraces, and peaceful
praying spots.

10. Chion-in - Free to wander about, ¥400 for some inside areas
I was pleasantly surprised by Chion-In simply because I had no idea it was there. You might be able to
attend a monk’s morning prayers. There’s construction going on on the main building but you can walk
behind it to some of the more smaller temples.

12. Kiyomizu-dera - ¥300 - open from around 7:15

You can get here early in the morning in advance of the throngs of school-children and tourists. The
gardens below have particularly vocal warblers, so if you find yourself making a relatively quick return to the
front of the temple, go back in with your original ticket and take the upper path around into the garden.

13. Fushimi-Inari Shrine - Free

I went there during the evening and stayed until the sun had set, which gave me the benefit of taking
pictures when the crowd thinned out, and also take a wonderful walk of the mountain behind the shrine as
the sun set. Take the Keihan line from Gion Shijo to Fushimi Inari. There are a couple of udon places where
you can have kitsune-udon (which they call inari udon).

Toji - ¥500, but can see things without paying

The tallest wooden tower can be appreciated even beyond the gates.

Recommended pathways

1. Ginkakuji connects to Nanzenji via the Philosopher’s Path, and you can visit Honen-in along the way
as well as a couple of nice smaller temples, all while following a pretty little creek. (Numbers 2-3-4
on the map)
2. Kiyomizudera connects to Chion-in and Yasaka-jinja by way of a pretty old Kyoto pathway snaking
through Higashiyama. This path is highly recommended. (Numbers 12-10-11 on the map)

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What’s the difference between ji/tera (寺）and in (院)? Both can be translated as “temple” or “shrine” (though note a temple
is a place for Bhuddist worship, while a shrine, more often referred to as a jinja 神社 is for Shinto). The primary consensus
seems to be thus:

They are not different, just used in different places where reducing a really long temple name to a shorter one would sound
better with one or the other. For example, Akasakusa-dera’s long name is 金龍山伝法院浅草寺: Kinryuzan Denpo-in
Asakusa-dera while Chion-In’s long name is 華頂知恩院大三寺: Kacho Chion-in Daisan-ji

http://www.harasangyo.co.jp/reader/file16.html
http://homepage1.nifty.com/tadahiko/GIMON/QA/QA558.HTML

Places to Eat

Nara (奈良)
Nara is a great side trip from Kyoto, but the main attractions are Todaiji, the huge seated Buddha inside
and the deer park. There are plenty of deer roaming for ample photo ops, and side stalls sell “kashi sembei”
or deer crackers at ¥150 a bundle. If you have time to spare, amble through Naramachi old town, where
you’ll stumble across Gangoji, one of the first Buddhist temples of Japan.

Hiroshima (広島)

Haikyo
Haikyo, or abandoned ruins, tend to the urban explorer’s dream. There’s a nice list of the ones you can try
to go to here, but be forewarned: you risk being arrested for trespassing.
http://www.totorotimes.com/urban-exploration/best-haikyo-2012/

Other Logistics
Lockers
Most major train stations will have lockers you can rent to
store heavy bags or luggage for a limited period of time, up
to 3 days. Cost is generally ¥300 - ¥500 depending on the
size. You can pay for some of them using a SUICA or
Pasmo card, too. There’s a RailGo service office at the
Tokyo station Yaesu south exit that can store bulky things for
up to 15 days. The price is ¥420 per day but doubles to ¥840
per day after 6 days.

Photo by spirosk

If you get sick

70
This guide lets you select medical institutions that may provide foreign-language support in case of illness

http://www.jnto.go.jp/emergency/eng/mi_guide.html

Telephones, Cell phones

Renting or buying a cell-phone in Japan is not at all worth it if you’re going to be in Japan for less than a
couple of months. There’s only one prepaid cell-phone provider (Softbank) and the prices come out to about
¥90 a minute, which is almost as bad as being ripped off at the airport by those phone rental companies.
Instead, if you think you’ll need to communicate, buy a ¥1000 telephone card that will let you make calls
from public phones. Rates on those machines for the 23-ward Tokyo area come down to about ¥10 a
minute. There’s something called B-Mobile which might be worth taking a look at if you have a compatible
SIM-based smartphone, with you, though they do only data. Project Fi SIM cards work without a hitch in
Japan, and cost $10/GB of data.

Redditor satannik writes that if you have T-Mobile and you benefit from free international roaming, you’ll get 2G
speeds on your phone (even though it looks like you’re getting a 3G data connection).

Money Stuff
Japan is very much a cash-based economy - if you’re unsure about whether a restaurant or bar accepts
cards, ask first.

Tipping and Taxes

Tipping is considered rude in Japan and should not be done. This is because tipping can be interpreted as
several things:
● you didn’t expect the level of service you got → in Japan, a high level of service is considered standard with
everything you pay for, so it puts the person performing the service in a bad situation
● you considered the server to be of a lower class → because you are able to pay them extra, you set yourself
apart as someone who is able to pay a bit extra, which is rude
An 8% consumption tax is added to everything you buy. Not all stores indicate tax-added prices, though
many do.

Currency Exchange
Exchanging money at the airport is always discouraged, but you may not have much of a choice unless you
have come prepared with travelers cheques or cash in hand. You may be better off withdrawing cash from
an ATM at the airport if your bank waives international transaction fees. There are a couple from the exit at
Terminal 1 South Wing in Narita - as you face the exits to the road outside, take a 5 minute walk leftwards
and you’ll see a bank of ATMs.
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It’s harder to find dedicated currency exchange stores like Travelex, so you’re better off going to a bank, like
Mitsubishi UFJ or Mitsui-Sumitomo (SMBC). Some places will have a dedicated ground-floor space for
foreign currency exchange. They’ll usually levy a 2% fee. Be sure to check with your credit card and debit
card providers to see if they’ll dock you for using your card overseas. Charles Schwab Visa and Capital One
don’t charge fees.

Purchasing online
You can purchase things on Amazon.co.jp and pay and have them delivered to you at a convenience store,
which can be convenient if you’re in need of something on the cheap. Furthermore you can also pay cash
on delivery, which is nice if you don’t have a credit card. Amazon also does same-day delivery in Japan.
Check out this page for details.

Credit cards
By my experience, purchasing certain things like flights or advanced reservation tickets online using a non-
Japanese credit card may not work. Rakuten accepts international credit cards, but Skytree and Japan
Airlines, for example, won’t. Your mileage may vary.

ATMs
Most convenience stores have an ATM, as do most banks, but banks do close outside regular business
hours with very little if any access to the ATMs inside. Not all ATMs accept foreign credit cards, though from
personal experience the 7-11 ATM gave me ¥100,000 from my Bank of America checking account at pretty
accurate exchange rate and no fee except Bank of America’s charge of $5. Japan Post and SMBC Trust
ATMs are also known to work with foreign cards. Also, withdrawing money from an ATM, even at a 24-hour
convenience store, may be restricted by bank access hours. In short, don’t be stuck without cash.

Wifi
There are an increasing number of free wireless access points across town, though the most common ones
(like FON, Wi2, and 0001softbank) still require a cellphone contract to actually connect. Recent travellers to
Japan have recommended renting a portable wifi hotspot at Narita or Haneda. Google Fi works well in
Japan as well.
● Starbucks (at_STARBUCKS_Wi2),
● the Tokyo Metro subway (Metro_Free_Wi-Fi) ,
● JR East train area (JR-EAST_FREE_Wi-Fi),
● Lawson (LAWSON_Free_Wi-Fi),
● 7-Eleven (7Spot) and
● Family Mart (Famima_Wi-Fi)
Most only require an email address and accepting terms and conditions. There is free Wifi at both Narita
and Haneda airports.

Postal System

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The Japanese postal system is known to be efficient and timely. The wait at the postal office is rarely long,
but not all post offices in Tokyo are open at regular times, with many offices closed on weekends. One post
office regularly open on the weekends is the one near Tokyo Station (Marunouchi exit). A typical 1.5 ounce
(42g) letter to the United States and Europe is ¥190; a lightweight card will set you back ¥110, while a
domestic one will cost ¥92.

See also: Addresses

Update log
This section chronicles some of the key updates made to this doc

5/30 Took my wife to Japan and noticed a bunch of things I would not have otherwise. Added section on Nara,
women’s dress section.

1/1/2017 Started the year off on a good footing by adding a section on hotel types, expanding the Nikko and onsen
sections. Cleaned up some old links

12/19/2016 Removed Omotesando Koffee as it’s closed now. Added a section about buying portable wireless hotspots and
also Google Fi.

3/30/2016 Added the “If you get sick” section.

3/8/2016 Added Sugamo section, added lockers, cleaned up text.

2/13/2016 Added Izu section, removed Skype Wifi because now free wifi is pretty prevalent. Updated USD prices.
Removed Komen from Roppongi since it closed. Added day trip itineraries.

1/14/2016 Updated Kamakura section, added Tokyo Station section, spot-checked prices.

12/30/2015 Updated camera section.

12/20/2015 Added section about Nakano Broadway and Fujiya, and flea market at Ooi-keibajo. Updated prices for
monorail.

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9/21/2015 Updated section about taxis and postage rates.

7/11/2015 Completed the retro arcade section, added Retro Game camp. Added Radio Center in Akihabara.

6/22/2015 Updated the retro arcade section with Super Potato visit, added hanabi section. Updated the food section a bit.

4/24/2015 Expanded the retro arcade list and Shimokitazawa section.

4/5/2015 Updated section on Omotesando, Shimokitazawa. Added classes to the Fake food section.

9/15/2014 Added two more itineraries: foodie+shopper and another cultural one suggested by the Tokyo metro,

9/13/2014 Updated itineraries with support from reddit folks, festival dates for 2015

9/6/2014 Updated wifi section, guitar street

9/5/2014 Added a section on Kentucky Fried Christmas. Updated section on Skytree, Odaiba Ferris Wheel and added
Ochanomizu Guitar street. Added Mandarake, Radio Kaikan, Super Potato for Akihabara, organized the
restaurants section, added page numbers for printing. Added sample itineraries, sections on sushi, fleshed out
the onsen and kabuki sections as well.

9/1/2014 Updated Shinkansen, Kamakura, cat and rabbit cafe sections, added How to read this guide as well as links to
other sections in the doc.

8/30/2014 Updated prices reflecting April 1 tax change, included new links for a variety of broken ones.

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