Article

Natural dye yielding plants in India

S. B. Gokhale, A. U. Tatiya, S. R. Bakliwal and R. A. Fursule*
R. C. Patel College of Pharmacy
Shirpur, Dist. Dhule - 425405, India
*Correspondent author: 40, Saraswati Colony, Shirpur, Dist. Dhule- 425405 (M.S.) India
E-mail: rafursule@rediffmail.com

plant part, second is creating a bond

Abstract
between the colouring matter and the fibre
to be dyed and the last is actual dyeing.
Every herb can be used to make dye. Herbal dyes being natural tend to The colour extraction is done usually by
be softer and their range of tones is very pleasant. At present total market of powdering the material then boiling it in
herbal dyes is to the tune of US $ 1 billion and is growing tremendously at the rate water for 10-20 minutes. The yarn or
of 12%per annum. Per capita consumption of dyes is 400g to 15 kg in developed fabric to be dyed is first washed well then
and underdeveloped countries for their utility in paints, inks, textiles, polymers, heated in the extract at different
etc. India is a major exporter of herbal dyes mostly due to ban on production of temperatures normally for about 30-40
some of the synthetic dyes and intermediates in the developed countries due to minutes.
pollution problem. Nature has gifted us more than 500 colour yielding plants. The creation of a bond between
The present paper is an aid to a collective enquiry into the Indian dye yielding the colouring matter and fibre is called
plants, their parts and chemical constituents. mordanting i. e. a pre-dyeing process that
Keywords: Dye yielding plants, India, Mordants, Chemical constituents. makes the fibre receptive to dye. Mordant
is a chemical that when ‘cooked’ with
IPC code; Int. cl. 7 ⎯ C09B61/00 fibres attaches itself to the fibre molecules.
A dye molecule attaches itself to the
Introduction increasing interest in herbal dyes, as mordant. Herbal dyes require mordant,
consumers have become aware of which are metallic salts of aluminium,
The close interaction of local ecological and environmental problems iron, chromium, copper and others, for
communities with the forests and various related to the use of synthetic dyes2. ensuring the reasonable fastness of the
products is the vital reason for the The most common herbal parts colour to sunlight and also washing. The
continued survival of forests. The invention used for extracting dyes are seeds, flowers, vessel that is used for dyeing itself is
of Indigo, the most important Indian leaves, berries, stems, barks and roots. serving as a mordant. The dyers use
Natural dye is as old as textile making itself. Some parts may have more than one copper tin vessels to brighten the colour
History reveals that Chinese have recorded colour depending upon which part of the and iron vat to dull the colour. To obtain
the use of dyestuff even before 2600BC1. plant is used. The shade of colour, a plant basic original colour of the colouring
Herbal dyes were used to colour clothing produces will vary according to season at materials, earthen or stainless steel pots
or other textiles but by mid 1800, chemists which the plant is picked, how it was are advisable.
began producing synthetic substitutes for grown, soil conditions, etc3. The dyeing Herbal dyes are best with natural
them. By early 20th century only a small process based on herbal resources fibers such as cotton, linen, wool, silk,
percentage of textile dyes were extracted includes three major steps, first being the jute, ramie and sisal3. Cotton dyeing needs
from plants. Lately, there has been extraction of colouring matter from the a complex series of pre-treatment before

228 Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(4) July-August 2004


it absorbs any dye other than indigo with
which it bonds naturally. On the other
hand wool or silk fibres take the colouring
matter quite easily.
Herbal dyes are classified4 on the
basis of their chemical structure where
grouping within each structure class is
done according to Hue. The broad classes
are: Flavones (Yellow and brown) -
90% of all yellow dyes are flavonoids. The
fastness of these yellow dyes is greatly
affected by the mordant and the
Article
photosensitivity of the chromophores;
Iso-Quinoline (Yellow) - the only basic
dyestuff known from nature; Chromene
(Orange yellow); Napthoquines (Brown
and purple grey) - although an array of
napthoquinones occur in nature, only a
few are important as dyes; and
Anthraquinones (Red) - over 95% of
the known natural red dyes fall into this
category. Anthraquinone dyes surpass all
other classes of dyes in their fastness
properties; Benzophyrones (Purple and
black); Indigoids (Blue) - an unusually
small molecule produces this stable blue
colour in a vat process; Vegetable
tannins (Neutrals)-gallotannins,
ellagitannins, catechol tannins. All tannins
have a large, heavy molecular structure
which reacts readily with metallic salts.
A list of commonly used dye
yielding plants is given in the table along
with its parts used, colouring components,
uses and colour with mordants.

Table: List of dye yielding plants in India 6-25

Botanical name & Family Parts used Colouring Uses and

components colour with mordant

Acacia catechu Willd. Wood Catechin, Dyeing cotton, silk and in calico printing
var. sundra Train Catechin red (Reddish brown)
(Mimosaceae)
Acacia nilotica (Linn.) Bark and Pods Catechin Dyeing textiles, (Light yellow) Alum,
Delile syn. A. arabica Willd. (Yellowish brown) Copper sulphate,
(Mimosaceae) (Dark gray) Ferric sulphate,
Calico printing (Reddish brown)
Adenanthera pavonina Wood Robinetin, Chalcones, Used in dyeing cotton clothes (Red)
Linn. (Mimosaceae) Butein, Amelopsin
Adhatoda vasica Nees Leaves 2-pyridyl methyl amine Alum (Yellow), Copper sulphate
(Acanthaceae) (Light yellow), Ferrous sulphate (Gray)
Aegle marmelos Correa Rind of the fruit Marmalosin In calico printing (Reddish)
ex Roxb. (Rutaceae)
Alnus glutinosa (Linn.) Bark Tannins and Used in dyeing to deepen the colour of
Gaertn. (Betulaceae) Anthraquinones Rubia cordifolia, Ferrous sulphate
(Black)
Alpinia galanga Willd. Root, Stalk Galangin, Dioxyflavonol In calico printing, Myrobalans
(Zingiberaceae) (Yellow-brown)
Althaea rosea Cav. Flowers Anthocyanin, Altheanin, Indicator in Acidic and Alkalimetry
(Malvaceae) Althaein (Red dye)

Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(4) July-August 2004 229


Botanical name & Family
Amaranthus hypocondriacus
Linn. (Amaranthaceae)
Anacardium occidentale
Linn. (Anacardiaceae)
Annona reticulata Linn.
(Annonaceae)
Bauhinia purpurea Linn.
(Caesalpiniaceae)
Bixa orellana Linn.
(Bixaceae)
Bougainvillea glabra Choisy
(Nyctaginaceae)
Butea monosperma (Lam.)
Kuntze (Fabaceae)
Butea superba Roxb.
(Fabaceae)
Caesalpinia sappan Linn.
(Caesalpiniaceae)
Carthamus tinctorius Linn.
(Asteraceae)
Cassia fistula Linn.
(Caesalpiniaceae)
Cassia tora Linn.
(Caesalpiniaceae)
Casuarina equisetifolia Forst. Bark
(Casuarinaceae)
Ceriops tagal (Perr.)
C. B. Robins.(Rhizophoraceae)
Chrozophora tinctoria
Hook. f. (Euphorbiaceae)
Chukrasia tabularis
A. Juss. (Meliaceae)
230
Article
Parts used Colouring Uses and
components colour with mordant
Arial parts Tannins Red Pigment Used to dye food.
Pericarp Phenolic constituents Tan or colour fishing nets. Indelible
marking ink (Light red)
Fruit, Shoots Catechin Dyeing textiles (Bluish black)
Bark Chalcone, Butein For dyeing and tanning (Purple colour)
Pulp (aril) Bixin, Orellin, Methyl Colouring silk and cotton
surrounding the seeds Bixin, Beta-carotene, (Orange yellow)
Cryptoxanthine
Flower with ivory Quercetin- xyloside, (Yellow) Tin, (Brown) Ferrous
white bracts Isorhamnetin sulphate + Acid/Neutral (Green) Alum +
Base & Ferrous sulphate + Acid (Orange)
Stannous chloride +Acid, Alum + Base
Dried flowers Butin, Butein, Butrin, Colouring sarees (Brilliant yellow dye)
Isobutrin, Palasitrin,
Coreopsin
Root Glycosides, Butrin, Dyeing
Butein
Wood and Brazilin, Sappan red Used with alum to yield black colour
Pods (Red dye)
Flowers Carthamin (Scarlet red), Dyeing wool, silk and food (Red & Yellow)
Carthamon
Bark and Sapwood Leucoanthocynidins (Red)
Seeds Rubrofusarin Dyeing and tanning (Blue)
Casuarin As mordant (Light reddish)
Bark Procyanidins (Black, Brown or Purple) With Indigo
Herb Turnsole Dyeing wool, silk and cotton (Light green)
Flowers and leaves - Leaves for tanning (Red & Yellow)
Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(4) July-August 2004
 Article

Botanical name & Family Parts used Colouring Uses and

components colour with mordant

Commelina benghalensis Juice of the flower - Pigment for painting on transparencies

Linn. (Commelinaceae) (Blue)
Convallaria majalis Linn. Leaves and stalk Convallatoxoloside (Green) Ferrous sulphate
(Liliaceae) (Flavonoid)
Curcuma longa Linn. Rhizome Curcuminoids, Dyeing
(Zingiberaceae) Curcumin
Curcuma zedoaria Rosc. Rhizome Curcumin, Arabins, In the preparation of Abir powder (Yellow)
(Zingiberaceae) Albuminoids
Dipterocarpus spp. Bark Oleanolic acid (Light brown) Alum (Brown) Copper
(Dipterocarpaceae) sulphate (Gray)Ferrous sulphate
Haematoxylon campechianum Heartwood Haematoxylin Manufacturing of ink and dyeing woolen
Linn. (Caesalpiniaceae) and silk goods
Impatiens balsamina Linn. Flower Monoglycosidic (Brown) Alum, (Orange)Tin
(Balsaminaceae) anthocyanin based on
pelargonidin
Indigofera tinctoria Linn. Green crop Indigotin Dyeing clothes (Blue)
(Fabaceae)
Isatis tinctoria Linn. Leaves Indican Deep black, Dark blue
(Brassicaceae)
Lawsonia alba Linn. Leaves Lawsone Dyeing clothes, staining fingers, hands and
(Lythraceae) dyeing hairs (Brown)
Ligustrum vulgare Linn. Mature berries Flavonoids (Blue) Alum and Iron
(Oleaceae) after frost
Madhuca indica J. F. Gmel. Bark Quercetin, Dyeing (Reddish-yellow)
(Sapotaceae) Dihydroquercetin
Mallotus philippensis Fruits Rottlerin, Isorottlerin Dyeing silk (Red)
Muell.- Arg. (Euphorbiaceae)
Mangifera indica Linn. Bark and Leaves Mangiferin Mordant and dyeing silk (Yellow)
(Anacardiaceae)
Morinda citrifolia Linn. Root bark Morindone Dyeing (Dull red)
(Rubiaceae)
Nyctanthes arbor-tristis Flower Nyctanthin, Iridoid Chrome (Yellow)
Linn. (Oleaceae) glycoside
Nymphaea alba Linn. Rhizome Tannins and Myricetrin Blue
(Nymphaceae) flavonoids glycosides

Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(4) July-August 2004 231

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Botanical name & Family Parts used Colouring Uses and

components colour with mordant

Prunus persica Batsch. Leaves, Root bark Tannins and Leucoantho- Colouring cotton fabrics
(Rosaceae) cyanin
Pterocarpus marsupium Bark Epicatechin Dyeing silk (Brownish red)
Roxb. (Fabaceae)
Punica granatum Linn. Fruit rind Flavogallol (Mustard Gray) Alum and ferric sulphate
(Punicaceae)
Quercus infectoria Olivier Gall nuts Gallotannic acid (Light Yellow) Alum, (Yellow) Copper
(Fagaceae) sulphate, (Dark Gray) Ferric sulphate
Rubia cordifolia Linn. Stem, Root Manjistin, Purpurin Dyeing coarse cotton fabrics (Reddish
(Rubiaceae) Brown), (Light Pink)Alum, (Light Brown)
Copper sulphate, (Reddish Gray)Ferric
sulphate
Rubia tinctorum Linn. Wood, Root Alizarin and Purpurin Depending on mordant it gives red, pink,
(Rubiaceae) Anthraquinine derivatives orange and lilac and brown. (Red)Alum
Rubus fructicosus Linn. Berries Carotene (Brown) Iron
(Rosaceae)
Tagetes erecta Linn. and Flower Petulitrin (flavonoid (Yellow) Chrome
glycoside)
T. patula Linn. (Asteraceae) Xanthophyll Cyanidine (Brown) Chrome
Terminalia arjuna Bark Arjunic acid Light Brown
(Roxb.)Wight & Arn.
(Combretaceae)
Terminalia chebula Retz. Fruits Chebulinic acid (Yellow) Alum, (Camel Yellow) Copper
(Combretaceae) sulphate, (Dark Gray)Ferrous sulphate
Tectona grandis Linn. f. Leaves Tectoleafquinone Dyeing silk (Yellow), (Yellow) Olive
(Verbenaceae)
Urtica dioica Linn. Leaves Chlorophyll (Green) Alum
(Urticaceae)
Ventilago madraspatana Root and Ventilagin Colouring cotton and Tassar silk(Chocolate)
Gaertn. (Rhamnaceae) Bark
Woodfordia fruticosa Leaves and Lawsone (2-hydroxy Dyeing
Kurz (Lythraceae) Flower naphthoquinone) (Pink or Red)
Wrightia tinctoria Seeds and Indigo yielding As an adjuvant in dyeing
R. Br. (Apocynaceae) Leaves glucoside (Blue dye)
Ziziphus jujuba Mill. Fruit Carotene, Tannins Mordant in dyeing silk
(Rhamnaceae) (Reddish pink)

232 Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(4) July-August 2004


Bougainvillea glabra
Urtica dioica
Althaea rosea
In addition to above list many 5. Increase technical ratings, lower the
other plants have been evaluated by
various researchers for their dye yielding the textile market.
Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(4) July-August 2004
Article
properties. Some of them are: Acalypha 6. Develop a full spectrum of quality
wilkesiana Muell.- Arg., Areca herbal dye extract along with the best
catechu Linn., Beta vulgaris Linn., application technology and ecological
Cedrus deodara (Roxb.)Loud., process.
Celosia argentea Linn., Eucalyptus
7. Develop necessary technology to apply
globulus Labill., Hamelia patens
herbal dyes for wood, floral, leather,
Jacq., Onosma echioides C. B.
cosmetics, paper, and personal care
Clarke, Banana petals, Red cabbage and
products.
Neem leaf.
8. Launch a global marketing strategy to
Conclusion educate the consumers on the
economic, ecological aesthetic and
Natural dyes are now-a-days in social advantages of herbal dyes.
demand not only in textile industry but in India figures prominently in this
cosmetics, leather, food and equation because of lower labour cost,
pharmaceuticals. The rich biodiversity of constant supply of raw materials to extract
our country has provided us a plenty of herbal dyes and tradition to use herbal
raw materials yet a sustainable linkages dyes.
must be developed between the
cultivation, collection and their use. References
Specifically the recommen-
dations for increasing herbal dyes’ market
1. Susan C Druding, A bi-annual
share include:
gathering of weavers, dyers and
1. Proper documentation of traditional spinners, Convergence, 1982, Seattle,
practices, users, suppliers of raw Washington.
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their utilization, Indian J Nat Prod,
2. Exploration and research on new 1991, 7, 11-13.
resources should continue.
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3. Improvement in plant yield and dye
Dyes, Resonance, 2000, 5(10),
concentration of targeted botanicals
73-80.
should be done by biotechnological
techniques. 4. Knaggs NS, Am Dyest Reptr, 1992,
4. Establishment of long-term 81(11), 109-111.
sustainability and dye yielding
5. Indian Materia Medica, by KM
substances by commercial cultivation
Nadkarni, 2 Vols; 3rd edn. (revised
of wild sources.
& enlarged), by AK Nadkarni (
Popular Book Depot, Bombay &
cost and improve reproducibility for Dhootapapeshwar Prakashan Ltd.,
Panvel), 2 Vol., 1954.
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Red radish cultivars as potential food colorants

The scientists at Dr. R.E. Wrolstad, Department of Food Science and Technology, Oregon State University, 100 Wiegand
Hall, Corvallis, USA evaluated red radish (Raphanus sativus Linn.) cultivars with respect to qualitative and quantitative
anthocyanin (ACN) pigment content.
During experiment radishes were grown at 2 locations and harvested at 2 maturity stages. Pigment content was
dependant on cultivar, root weight and location. Spring cultivars (n=22) had pigmentation in the skin, ranging from 39.3 to
185 mg ACN/100g skin. Red-fleshed Winter cultivars (n=5) had pigment content ranging from 12.2 to 53 mg ACN/100g root.
ACN profiles were similar for different cultivars, the major pigments being pelargonidin-3-sophoroside-5-glucoside, mono- or
di-acylated with cinnamic and malonic acids; individual proportions varied among cultivars. Estimated pigment yields ranged
from 1.3 to 14 kg/ha [Giusti et al, J Food Sci, 1998, 63(2), 219-224].

234 Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(4) July-August 2004