wm &e & & LOUNGES, REEFERS, 02-484 the GUTTERS’ PRACTIGAL GUIDE 10 CUTTING, MAKING, AND FITTING NORFOLK, SPORTING, & PATROh JACKETS. % ECIAL INSTRUCTION ON THE ENT OF DISPROPORTIONATE FIGURES BY W, D, F. VINCENT Author of * The Cutters’ the PUBLISHED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, 42, GERRARD STREET, LONDON, W.LONDON Printed and Published by The dota Wiliaseon Company’ Limited, Gerrard Steet: Shaftesbury Avenue, WPUBLISHERS’ PREFACE. This work ie devoted to the cutting of all kinds of Lounge Jackets by the Cutter's Practical Guide Sys tem, and contains the resilt-of muich research, experiment and experience ‘The simplicity and roliability of the GP.G. System is admitted on all hands. and i boing prastised im thom sands of cuttingrooms with success, so that we have every confidence tnt it will prove equally sueocssful_ in the fads of Uhove who: purehiee thie volume Lounges have indergone considerable change during the Inst fow yeirs, and the diagrams in this vork are thoroughly up:to-tate ; but whilst they portray the latest tiers, styles, they give equal attention to the ordinary and those special styles which only meet with an ocea- sional demand, so that the whole subject of Lounges is tveated in» comprehensive manner. We also note that every phase of disproportion has teen fully described, so that we have every. confidence that this work will prove a worthy successor to the many GP.G, parts that have been publisied by us, and which have proved s0) holpful to the trade ‘ue method of treating the vazious styles hasbeen tonciss and to the poiut, so that the description of the system ‘might go on tw same page as the diagram, We have omitted illustrations of atyle in nearly every the pages, inasmuch as they would interfere Wve plan; but have: supplemented the work by a cetics of fashion igures, which will sorvo-es:n wseful guide to style for all garments of the Lounge Ponnistens, THE JOHN WILLIAMSON CO., LD. S2SSSL2e2INDEX OF CONTENTS. Iutrotuction ‘Vaking the Onder irs Sorjow of Manausen ‘The Longtlee The. Section i Figoos Iustrating Mesmuring A Guntlemanly: Manner Drafting the Patiem Piet, Line nis ne sie ‘Tho Widths i ble of Average Meaures "Dh Byetain Lines ‘Tho Outlines and Sweeps Completion of Outline ‘The Question of ty Te Sleoro System * Slee Balance ‘Attinade of Cust The Slee of Sexe Uniiaside sirow Diagrams Cutting the Patt Marking the Pockets CCatting the Collar Cutting from the Cloth Otaide Collar The Question of Inlays Plonsing tho Fitting Writing tha Tieket Tein ming Mateuing. Raton "Tho Canvas ‘Thee Linings "The Pockets "The Lien Minot Details Chat with Workman Fouiures of Maing ‘Tw Use o€ Line Sluaping the Shoulders Sewing on the Gillor Diagram of Shoalder: Building Special Inateuetion Preparing for Trying-on ‘Paying on Mae Boalaeer noe Systematic Examination ‘The Front of Garmen Meacuree Page Pocingh, Ling, ote a Ditierent. Method of Fiaish cd Lustration of Tnterions v2 ‘Marking: Atenatins once ox B Reeutting after Trying-on % Exumining Ge Finished Garment oon 24 ‘Attention to Detal poet ling atid Packing FS The Fitting Lounge ie feet Special Beatie i sie ewes 2B Dingratt Of ditto sas siaisioss soon 2B ‘Tho Sleeve Systen sine 96 Whakeaele Tangy soon nye eect 97 ov-rolliug Lapel a Diawnam of ditto eat Fashionable Roofer sa i BB Spetan for ditto Hits on Making Diageam of Rector Diise dokots ‘Thies Stylow of Lapels 2 9 Nore dakota ao a Special Features eee: Spetein for ditto 23 Diagram Nowfole 30 Sporting dacket 30 Ton Pivot Sleove a» 31 Diagrian of Skirtad Jacket 3L ‘Tie Patrol Tacket 3a Special Features a hu Syste 2 82 Dingrwin of Batra Jacket Ba Universit Servive Jacket 3a Pingo of ditto erent) pate for ditto 2... as ‘The Riding Lounge Syston for ditto Piiageam of ditto Hinson Making “i 35 Dressing Gow 36 system for Dressing Gown 36 of Dreming Gown 36 Sinking delet a Diagram cf ditto sinus BD System for Smoking Jaoket 37 von Ming F a Boye Tange dnekets 38 Paige ket. 38 38 Srecial Features of Hoye! Dingram of Boy's Lounge Swiloe Blomsos someone 38 Capo Collam ee) Diagrain of Sailor's Jucket oe 38 Clerical Lounges aoa Special Festuras of ito 7) Diagrann of ditto co 0 Lounge for Livery Servant reso AL Dingram of dicw a Hin on Making Livery Sachets. 42 Pantry Tuan 4 Poxison of Seaans si nc Diagram of Pantey Jackets 4% Hints on Milking son. se remercenns 8 ‘Types of Highlasd Deve A Tigjhiad Sporting aches ice Highland Dra dnoket 44 of Highland Jackets sos. on 48 Style as ‘The Seamless Lange 5 a Another Siglo es aT Ba a ee news at top of Bidemsun a8 How Avoid dite 48 Diingrams of Remedion 19 Disproportionste 50 Storring. igure : a 60 Targe Shoildered Figen 50 Sina Showers Pac Bh Tong Neds eee ene cnnnevemne BD Short a Summary of Altern re oh Lung Hoses Short Raaen BL Corpulont: Lounge System 82 ‘The Amount of Dispeoportion 5a "Tho Pockel-month Aud Vee non soa 52 Diagram of Corpalent Lange 83 Hats at Mate it gs Sall Waist Hollow: Waista aug Seven Prominent, Bade Tiump-hacked. Figuren Nalin Tonge for Hamas 6 Prominent, TipeThe Cutter’s Practical Guide To the Cutting and Making of Lounges. AAA MAM DRDO CHAPTER I—HOW To Cl FIT, AND FINISH A PLAIN LOUNGE, INTRODUCTION, ‘The present volume has heen arranged on a somewhat differont plan to any work on cutting which as yet appea tlie basia of our scientific instruction, red, and whilst we have made the C:P.G, System yeb we have de sevibed it in sich ensy stages thab it ehould be well within the reach of the youngest and most inoxperionced tailor to cut and make-up th been to describe all the various processes, from tiling the order to sunding home the finished garment, In deing this, we have taken the plain SB Lounge as a basis of our operations, and after this hay been gone through in detail, we have proceeded to describe the application of the system to various sty! forms. Not, the least useful of these are the tions of cutting for hunchbacks’ and carpulent ideavour has been to. produce Work, and, if we have erred, it has boon on the side of ments: Our aim has an Educational simplicity, understood ‘us that tie in deseribing points which sre generally Previous experience, however, has taught are the very things which are not known by many, and these are the very foundation of successful cutting, During vecent years many changes have been made in, tho style of this clase of garment, A. few y ego they were made to hang straight, ani seldom exceeded 28 Inches in length for the 5ft. Sin. gure; ab the pm sent time they are made to fit the waist closely, have fan abundance of spring over the hips, and ar fully 4 inches longer. The wholebark has been replaced hy his is genovally finishod with a deep slit, and with a broad back-tack. ‘This is the fashion able styla, but when we beur in mind that the Tange is, worn by all classes, many of whom eare little for Intest. fashion, it becomes apparent that every cary a} Tn ho will, of course, be greatly helped by a knowlede| bo taken to find ont the wishos of the customer the stylo most popular in his district with the class to which his eastomer belongs. and espedi We have endewoured, in this book, to produr work of a most. practical character, so without furi introduction, we start with the first operation the ou! has to deal with in conncetion with his customer, vi TAKING THE ORDER We will assume thnt the customer has selected material, and, after examining the various fas} plates, bas givon definite instructions respecting aiyle in which he wishes the garment to by eut 4 Th ns fax as they’ refed pockets, finish of the edges, timo of completion, made. taile of the onler all beon entered in the Order Book | the cutter is now ready to measure the customer hold that it is of the fest importance that ¢ before he measures, should know what for and hones we advocate that tho dotails of the ca should all be taken before the tape is applied to ‘customer's ody Just a word in pxssing in reference to the inch-id This should be clean and weliable: An inch-tape iv 4 jected to n good doal of hard woar in thy eutter's hay and it is not surprising that in a weok or two ite ount of dirt wich rende ‘The ‘wear is ealealated to impair its accuraey, and altho fice accumulates ans objectionable for measuring purposes, ame hl this may not be noticoable to. any considerable: ext. yet it is as woll that-ve should not only. hy tape, but ako an asenrato ad i Ror our own part ‘There jer of an inch wide, but perhaps prefer an inch-tape which is rather narrow. same made a q most; useful is the Gin, wide, We are now read; tke the ke lust ly fuer ter he: Ch nd. nd sil ve ing lor hew THE ew TER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE FIRST SERIES OF MEASURES Which are illustrated on Pigares 1 and 2, and consist: of chest, waist and hips. ‘The chost is illustrated at A A, te waist at BB, and the hips at CC. We would par: direct the attention of tose who are nod 6x: ticularly perienoed in measuring, to tho position of the tapo on Figure 1, This should go straight round the body on a lovel with the bottom of 1 first moastre it is always well to srmpits, and in taking the nd out your eustonter’s idea of ease. People vary 20 much in their tastes in tliis partienlar that, unl ffort iy made to find ‘oub their wishes, it may involve considerable alterations ‘The waist is taken round the smallest parb of the body, ‘and the hips just over the prominence of the seat. It ia not absolutely necesiary that the seat measure should always be taken, but it is ausoful measure and enables you to detect any abrormality at that particular part, fand as the fit of the back depends very mich ow the harmony existing botween the bottom of the Lounge and the shape of the figure, it may be just as well to take it, These measures will probably stand as follows: 36 chiest, 82 waist, $7 seat, Each measure should be called out as ib is taken, and the porson entering the measures in the Order Book should repeat the quantities after the Our next step is to take enttor ‘THE LENGTHS, And before we do this it ia necossury to locate the level of the bottom of the seye. This may be dene by put- ting the tape over the shoulders, saddle fashion, and bringing it under the sms to the contre of the back. A little practice will soon enable absolute accuracy to be obtaiaed in this particular, Another method is illustrated on Figures 7 and 9 where the square is put under the armpit, where a mark is made ab P in the front, and a corresponding mark behind it will enable the cutter to obtain the accurate position of point Non Figure 4, We are now ready to take this scries of measures, We start from the nape of neck point, E (Pigare 4), and measure down to Nsay 9 inches, then continue on to the natural waist length, which is usually equal to onefourth of the total height, to F 17 inches and continue on to G, the full length, 28 inches, Ta taking the full length of the garment, it, will be wall to consult the customer's wishes, though, at the ame time, you should be thoroughly acquainted with Luo style in which they are worn at present, so that you ay be able to offer such advies ta your customer as will At pre: less 2 inches, able him to secure 2 smart-Atting garment st, thia runs about half the height ‘The next mensure to be taken is the wid back, from H to Ton Figure 5. ‘This shou with the arm resting at the side. Tf there seam to the garment, measure right acros from back seyo to back seye, and halve ti Now raise the arm and bend tho elbow, as il Figure 6, and continue the measure from elbow length, aud on to K for full length of sl refcrenca to the length of sleeve, customers vi taatex Quo gentleman wishes to show J amount of eu, whilst another prefers a enough to dispense with euils altogether nent bone at wrist may be takon as a good g average taste as regards length of sleovw. ‘The 7.19, 32 ‘The uext measure we take is the width| would run as follows eheat, illustra Te is: tal ed on Figure 3 inches below the level of the shoulder, and is tho front of the left seye to a corresponding the right sey the Thus, prouming the distance half-measuze being ente Order Book. of right seye to front of leit seye is 16 inch ture entered would bo 8. "Yh front: shoulder is the next taken, andl of the most. important, point E of Figure 4, or point L of Figure } ‘sure down to the bottom of seye, as illustrat ‘Mon Figure 7, This measure should be ¢} pethaps rather to should, of course, be taken to the level of the close side than ott ‘Tho last measure is known as tho overs! is taken from point N of Figure 8, over the ©, Figures'8 and 9, down to pomt B, Figure] the same point to which the front shoulder In order to facilitate the taking of the me: of the users of the C.P.G. have resorted to assistance, and the simplest of these is the H ‘Tape, an illustration of which we give on Pf strip of clastic is arranged to go round” thy uttach to cither side of this, it forms an exch for taking the measures. ete, The T Tape, fitting, may be obtained from the “Tailor J Office, price 16, 3d, post free. Tt must not | however, that: any special apparatus ix neces4 these mesures; for our own part we have inch-tape all sufficient; still, that d ply to all, and as it is best for each cutter metliod that suits him best, we desoribe ti being as good an instrument, asany for this If thes measures are taken with a f ordina intelligence, they will enable the cutter to Starting from the 4 toh rte +h vel W ih t} le} hie [pry fie fo lps ios Hos} al idee ui 7 hot tay} hese, lia the fok jack for pith fate tho the Ib ‘om, the font lec, int ely. aud land at fa i| cal Fal land hido| sti ed, ake| the| ap the af or|TO THE CUTTING AND MAKING OF LOUNGES.all the desirable for him to do this part of hie work with hie pecitlinrites of shape. Tt will, of course, be eyes open, so that, withoul resorting to any rough handling of the figure, he may yet be able to detect if there is any extra wadding or padding needed in the figure at my part, whilst it would also be helpful for AACN ‘The “T" Tape. him to observe any disproportion that may exist in the customer, 20 that he may te enabled to give his work man instructions accordingty GENTLEMANLY MANNER Is of the utmost importance. for, coming in contact as the cutter necestarily must, with many gentlemen who maye in the best eircles of society, it is im the highest sense desirable that: he should lave a certain amount of polish in his speech, combined with a courteous man- which will enable him to do bis duties in such « way fas to convey a good impression on his customer ‘The young man who desites to be expert in this im portant branch of cutting will find it necessary to prac: tise what wo have here described, so that he may be able to follow us in our second stage, which will consist of instructions on “How to Draft. a Lounge Jacket. ‘The following table of measures will prove of great service to the cutter when working from travellers mea- sitres, and also to check thos he may be doubtful of, THE OUTTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE DRAFTING THE PA‘T ERN, We now tale our readers to the nest stagy fn and making a Lounge, namely, the drafting f tern; ani here it may be well for us to stat hold very decided opinions on the adyantaght of ing a pattern as contrasted with drafting th g| direct on the cloth, On the surface it may mer method takes a longer time, while |i yolvés an outlay in brown paper mieal to use a cut-out brown paper pattern, af ft | the cutter to place the various parts of the the material in such a position as will allefy it takon from the material without any undad att same time, for the lay to be arrang be, rearranged, in the most economia We will presume, thon, that our readers a to draft the pattern out on brown paf sequent! of pip we take a sheet of paper, a sq und our inch-tape, and proceed to FIRST LINES. We aust, of cow be: careful to test from time to time to see that it is true, Othe First of all, dra the side of the paper furthest from you, dy Fight to left. This is illustrated by Di fon this we proceed to mark off the depth really draws lines ab right angles. trous results may follow from ©, which represents the nape of the nq down to the shoulder level, ‘The positioy really a matter of taste, and may lower without im any way affecting the fit ment, the ordinary working of the CP.G. § ing all the necessary compensations on the he varie any variations which may take place in ti very gool guide for gencral purposes will | making O 3 equal to one-thini of the dey Our readers may take this as 2 standard qilati vary from it in harmony with their own tasi From 0 to 9 been taken direct, on the customer. © to 17 is the natural waist length, whi direct monsure 0 to 28) seams, this moasuve having also by ‘the customer. MARKING ‘THE WIDTHS Those points having beope accurate now procoed to draw tines af? right anzles to| ho points, as illustrated by Diagram 2, and ih} Experiene}| hf proves it to be otherwise, for it is cortainly shbre tho dopth of seye, this medshire} the full Tength of the garme}} yh cen takeh| ai |varipas10 THE COTTING AND MAKING OP Lov? Scale of Average Measures. Chest, 24 28 30 32 54 36 88 40 42, 4b 46 48 50 ot 58 58 Waist 24 25 46 60 63 66 Saye Doptb, 64 103 104 1 Nat, Wai) 1k 13 14 15 16 16; 17 17} 11g 18 18} 18} 185 18} 183 1sy 183 183 19 Length. 20 22 24 26 28 283 29 294 30 B03 81 Bly 82 82g 33 33 Aeress Back, BE 5a 5 oR Full Length Slee. 192 22a 25 27 20 31 82 38 884 B84 84 84 384 Acmss Chest, 5 5 6 6 7m ‘TE OR 10 103 i 1a 12 194 18 18h 14 root hol 93 10 10% i 1 124 13 134 14 14 16} 16 163 15 18 18} 183 19 ver Sholir, 19 18} 14} 143 20 a 22 23, 288 24e 254 2546 THE Cort proceed to mark off the widths, Commencing on tine ©, wo proceed to mark off the back neck, which may. usually bo fixed at omotwelfth of the breast meamre, animus bal? an inch, or if the nedk measure las heen taken, then use onosixih of the neck measure for th's purpose, ‘This, in the 96 size, comes oui about 2). If it is preferred to-mako it fin, wider, as is the case with some cutters, then this will be compensated for when drafting the forepart. On line 3 mark off the width of back, plus fin, in, for coims, and fin, for the curve out at the top back of seye, nd the small amount ef suppression from the con: struction line in the back-seam. O- © oI DEI \ 1 1 t + t Ae AS BD ed ees Ea A Ot Tine 9 mark across to 7}, a fin. Jose than from 8 to From 7} to 10} makes 3 inches Now measure across from 9 to 20) the halfchest measure plus 24in. 11 it is desired that the garment shall ft easily, then this 2} may be inereased to 29, or even 3 inches; or if the material from which tho garment is to be made is of a thiek and stubborn character, then the 2) should be increased accordingly. If, on the other lund, it i desired that the garment should fit closely, this quantity should bo seduced, a plan which would also be followed when the material from which the jacket is made is of very thin desexiption n'S PRACTICAL GUIDE Point, 204 having been located, we measure back to the across chest measurs. Point 22 is Iin. in front of 204, that indicating the amount of button-stand or overlap which is left'in front of the breast Tine. On the line 17 we mark off § to Jin. for the hollow of the bac From { to § is equal to onosixth of the breast, From (@ to 78 is L to 1din,, ing to the closeness desired at: the waist From 7 to 10f is 8 inches, also a quantity which may be wed for all sizes subject to the cutters) diseretion. From 10} to 11 is 1 inch, an amount: whieh is reduced in the case of Iarge waists, or when it is desived that the urying it. accord- garment shall hang straight at the sides DIA.2. WwiDTHS. pag te a In onder to find point 203 on the waist lino 17, it will be necessary to measure up the distances from 3 to 6B, from 7 to 103, and forward from 11, an amount equal to tho half-waist measure plus 2 inckes, Or, if a very easy fit is desired, then add 24 From 20} to 22 add 14in. We now only have the bottom line to deal with, and wo mark from 20} to 6§ the same distance as from 17 to 6 om the natural waist line, Having now obtained the principal depths and widths of our garment, we can proceed to mark the70 THE curTive OUTLINE (DIAGRAM 3) From 2} mark up {, and form the back neck from © tj. Nowshape the should: ightly hollowing it about 3 incl by the diagram. Now shape the backseam from O to § to Wo now retum to the back seye, and drawing a eurve from point 74 down to 10}. This hav. ing been done, we shape the siduseam of the back by connecting the two points 6% on lines 17 and 28), seam from } to as illustrated om point continue the line throw The iT} up into the back seye position of this seam is, of course, a matter of tast may be made more forward or backward should the cut ter so desire the quantitics which wo have here given being such as may be used with safety, and vill produce good atyle, ‘We next shaps the sideseam of the forepart, connect. ing point 7} to 79, and below this itis sprung out so a! to overlap the sideseam of the back an amount equal to fat least: half the differenes between the chest: and hips, and for the resent fashionable styles an inch er so For the plai ting Lounge, thi ly runs about fin., that being the amount illustrated in the dia AND MAKING OF LOUNGES i Our next stap isto mark the outline of the [sh] bh object of which is to givo a close fit ab the ska} to fro vile auficiont roroptaclo for the hips, and tol gfe «fbn for the side pockets, ‘The fich is terminathd inches holow the waist line, a line being draftn dol point: 10} to 104, eurving towards the front, ah the line 10f Hough 119 av biblen,| bi bottom being nicely graded off to a point, yen from Tho next thing we hare to do is to get th} dint which to form THE SHOULDER ‘Viese are obtained by a series of sweeps of abbmdfel ‘Ube young reader will easily be able to under}tdild Wha we mean by putting his finger on the end df fife thpe| and theeeby fixing it to the board, then takjnd fholff of the tape some distance down, and swinging i¢]ts}qlew fel und forwards. This is what. is known as eastind a Heel ment, or, to uso a more tailorie expression,| uf flex ‘Tho first eweep that is to he made} id [by [fl front shoulder measure, the width of the back) nk fFhut © to } having been previously deducted, so. that] in [tle ease of a 124 front shoulder nnd tho width of the tHe for tho fir = neck being 2}, the quantitywould be 10 inches, ‘The end of the tape is put at point in front of sye, ond a sweep is made from 3 to 4, ‘a chalk being wed to make the mark, — The second sweep is made from point 204, and the quantity used is 1 inch more than thet used for the first. sweep, that amount. having been found by experience to produce a caufivient. quantity of extra 1 be worked up for all ond ‘When outting for a stooping or flat-chestid nan, this may be reduced, whilst, on the other hand, it should gti on the feont edge to y figures. be inereasedl somewhat whon draiting a pattern for an ‘The second sweop is then made from 1 cereet figure, to 2, point 20) being the pivot from which the sweep made. For cheep trades, whore the machine is freely wed, it will suffice to adi on Jin. or Jin Where these two sweeps cross ech other finds point F, which gives us the accurate location of the neck: point for the particular figure we are cutting for. We now make a third sweep, the object of which is to find the shoulder level. We use the overshoulder measure for this purpose, having finst deducted thy distance from 9 to W of the back, so that in the ease of a 17 over- shotldar and the distance from 9 to W being 8}, we should use 84 by which to sweep for the shoulderpoint then putting Putting the end of the tape on point | + on the tape, Kerping it flat for about fin higher up, and then sweeping from 5 to 6. This finds: the shoulder-point, and we are now able to proceed with the COMPLETION OF THE OUTLINE, As illustrated on Diagram 4. ‘The width of the shoul: der from F to D is always made a little narrowed than the width of the shoulder of back, as indicated by 3 7H, the reason for this being that the front shoulder chied ont, whilst the back is just # little falled on st W in making up. With regard to the shape of the shoulder from F to D, it will be found « very good plan to draw a straight line from F to D, and add on tin .or gin, of round about ov 3 inches from D. ‘This will have the effect of giving the appearance of 4 liltle hollow about 1 inch from F.Tho shoulder hav- ing been drawn, we now complete theseye. The bottom fe, just above 12}, should bo kept as ie slightly st cof the front of hiollow as possible, whilst the front of the seye showlé always touch line drawn at: right angles to point 125 Whew the seye has thus been completed, carefully scrutinise it, and seo whother it forms one harmoninus whole, the shape being something ike the outline of a horseshos on the depth of sey line, ‘THE CUPTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE Jn our diagram it will be sen that thehy if about] 3 inches distance between the shoulder-end fof the fore| part and the shoulder end of the back. Thy, bpw)ver would be reduced if the width of the bac Jw} nlade| wider, whilst it would be inereased if an exfthe fanpunt| was allowed for making-up, tin ake} Having dvafted the seye, we proceed te} Jmfrk outline of the gorge, and in doing this we bhfe fo jnto consideration first of all the fit, and theo} ti} ‘As far a2 the fit of the neck is concerned, fhe ne may be obtained by marking from F tf |V to one-sixth of the neck, ‘That measu} being very seldom taken, we may use the orfe}ts} the breast, minus Jin., instead, Now curv th Hine, ov meeting edgo-to-edge line, from V_ thfou} 20} to bottom. From V to T is the same| fs tok Vom from F to Tswept y be made a pivot, aid th ‘This, with a little adju}}meht, Indeod give-a good shape for the neck of the garmep} We now come out from the breas’ line Hh and shape the front edge from point 22, 24 Tt will bo seen that the bottom of the folepayp drop: slightly below the bottom Tine, the plan fol to mark Jin. below the bottom line at fron ‘scoordingly hiapd THE QUESTION OF STYLE Now let us take a look at the style whfeh fs to be imparted to the front of this garment. If il is} ddsired that the coat shall button fairly well up, fe gq be left as it is, the size and shape of lapel bits fajhste olny to taste; but if, on the other hand, it is desfrfa Jo Jae it turn moderately low, then the gorge shpfld] aljo bq Iowered in harmony, as the shape in which het] poption of the diagram matked “Turn, ‘on Diagra}| 4] is} eat will decide the style of the lap: fof the most approved shape, it may be welll tel tub if by the bb, jp akan |, an ia ors] tolget thi back from the crease Vine, which from the level of the top button to 1 inch pi}t jrorp thd gore, and the shaps may then be checked bh] any sfand| ant we may have of good style. “Another point of style is the run of th|frdnt] and tis, of course, admits of a considerable amdilntlof fasts Drving the past year ot <0 square-fronted Iqunkes| hsv been very popular, though a large number of{yohng mey still prefer the rounded front ‘This system leaves the aullest possible spe] fof thy testo, ote, in draft} put} thi so thht purfrend al ceutter to display” bi ontline, this in no way afecting the fi ers may bring their skill to bear on this 1 cover manner they may deem best,to THE cer” Jeson, ve should advise all ny to draft to be careful to draw Before concluding th those who are leari neatly, ‘Thare is no reaon why thie chalk should be need ‘The Consequently the challe should when it produces a Tine from din. to Jin, thick finor th lines the booter be well sharpened if a smart line is to be drawn. ent p Another matter on which we held very decided opint hat whon an unsatisfactory line has been drawn it: should be rubbed out before another is started, other vise the probability is that in the multitude of Tines it ey will be dificult to decide Wikich one is intended to be used. ie finished draft: should only have ono tine at any given pare, and that shoald be as neatly nud aristi- cally drawn as possible. Use a teliable equare, a dean shect of paper, a proper piece of chalk, and se that the inel-tape oaly has the Sgures on one side, and is other wise reliable, ‘Try to draft one pattorn well, rather than to draft a. number of patterns in a careless and clumsy way We now advise our readers to put into practice the Jessous we have heve given them, leaving the steve and collar for 4 subsequent lesson, Should any of our readers desire us to eximine any prttems drafted by them, we shall be pleased to do so AND MAKING OF LoUNG on their forwarding the pattern, together with 1s 2d, in stamps, when we vill make such corrections as may be deemed necessary, and retum at date, 10 earliest possible Before cutting out the pattem of the bedypart, it will be desirable for to-daft the sleeve, as the leading foatwe of this-systom ie to let ene part bo: governed bby the form of the body i his to fit, together with that part of the garment to which it has to be joined. Wo therefore, proceed to deseribe the SLEEVE SYSTEM. ‘The fist thing to be done is to obtain certain measure ments from the scye of the garment, Diagram 21 illu trates the upper portion of the pattern, the: ‘quantities marked thereon being in harmony with the ted outline given in our ast. It will bo noticed’ that a line has been drawn down from the back of the soye to point 7H, and the frst measure that we tole $= from 7} to 12h: this enables us to find the width of the seye, that ig, the mea point to the most for the true horizontal. 5}. Now drav lines at right angles, ae illustrated on are across from Ue mast: backward the measure in ard point, taki Hy deducting 7} from 124, we get10 VHE CUTTER'S PHACTICAL GUIDE Diagram 22, and measire down from on line B the quantity. obtained from the seye as above desorited, Doing that number of inches in this particular By this method any variation that is made in the width of the back or shoulder is compensated for in the sleove, and, consequently, the system here laid down is, to a very largo extent, automatic in its adaptation to any width of the back The next point that we have to nsider is the BALANCE OF THE SLEEVE, And in doing this we have to adjust it in harmon: nd also tho attitude of the customer. Ag a general rule the With the positions of dhe beck and front pitehes hindaxm pitch may be located about 2 inches below the shoulder-seam. This is illustrated by point F on Din- gram 23, The hindarm pitch, hovever, may be adjusted in harmony with the eutters taste or the customer's Wishes We merly give 2 inches below the top of the shoulder-seam as a suggestion to the exparienced citer, or-a guide to the noviee, With regard to the forearm piteh, however, we do not think thab it is advisable to Allow so much Tatituds, ‘The best position for: th certainly in, above the level of the bottom of the seye. This is indicated by B, Diagram 28. This peoduces the forearm of the seam running in a line with the bend of the arm, sxd the seam of the cuff to rum in a line with the thumbs: We now have to take into consideration THE ATTITUDE OF THE CUSTOMER. Te he is erect he will aequire a. backoward-hanging sleove. Tf, on the other hand, he is stooping, his arms will bang forward, and, consequently, » longer hindarm. seam will be necessary, so that in obtaining the m by which to locate line 1 on Diagram 24, vo place the square with the arms touching the two pitches A very good plan for the beginner to adopt is to stick pin in point F and B, and then place the square close wp to them, adjusting. the Tower arm (C) in harmony with thie position which it is desired to give the sleeve when tho garment: is finished. For the ordinary customer it will sullice to let this arm of the square (C) come to about the middle of the pocket-flap, varying it as above described. When this has been adjusted, note the quan- tity from E to B, and apply thet measure from 3} up to one on line B, Diagram 24, line 1 being drawn at right angles to 0 B, We now have to take into con. THE SIZE OF THE SCYB, Tn order thet we may get the proper width of sleevehead, by putting the back in a closing position to the shoulder as illustrated by Diagram 28. We measure ‘straight ‘across from A to B, and whatever that, measuns is ap- plied from 1 to 9 Cas illustrated on Diagram 25. From O to 4j on this samo diagram is half of 1, 9, ‘These points having been obtained, we proceed to Diagram 26, which illustrates the lines drawn from 54 tof, and from 4} to 9. Those lines may be looked upon as a wafolding, by whieh we build up the outline of tho sleevehead. ‘The draft of the sleorehead is illustrated on Dingram 27 by the solid Tine from 9 through 43 to Bf. In drawing this a Jin. is added above the line drawn from 9 to 44, and about fin, of round is added above the line dawn from 4) to 54. This gives us the sleove- head. We msy now complet: the topide sleeve by measuring off the length. First take the measure of the width of back, apply it to pint 9 C of Diagram 29, After having deducted three seams, two for the back and one for the slcevehend, measure down te point B tho length o fthe elbow, and eontimae on to point D the full length of the elbow, and continie on to peint D the full and mark the width of the elbow from this point to B half the size desired plus Sin For the 36 si whic fa oquival the elbow is usnally ent & inches, to Linch loss than a, quarter of the aed from D to F and in tho absence of a direct measure, this may be nade rather more than one-sixth of the breast, the usual ‘width of eulf for the 36 breast being about 6) inches, ‘The rim of the bottom of cuff from D to F is obtained by drawing a line at right angles to BD. The hindarm-seam is slightly shaped, as indicated by Dingram’ 30, the hindarm being hollowed about fin, be- twoun point 9 and elbow, whilst a similar amount of round is added between the elbow and cxf: This com: pletes the topside sleeve, The ‘breast. ‘The width of eaff is m UNDERSIDE SLEEVE, Ts next drawn, and, of course, we have to take into eon- sideration the size af the seye between the two. piteies. Consequently we measure round the bottom of the s from F to B, and whatever quantity that is we measure across from 5} to 7, aa illustrated by Diagram 28. Th the particular garment we are illustrating here, the measure is 7J. Consequently, pointe T and Sf, on Diagram 28, are 74 inches apart. Now draw a line across from 5} at right angles to OB From 5} to 2) is onethird of the distance between 5p and 7, ‘Tho underside sleeve is hollowed Hin, below this Hine, and is shaped up to meet point 7 by hollowing the other part. fin. aa seen in the Dingram,ES. oF ToUNe th. to Elbow FF ve AND MAKING 4 4] aI Sl al TO THE oUrTING PLATE 2.‘THE CUTTER’S PRACTICAL GUIDE Tt only now remains to connect point 7 with the up, and ao help to provide a clean undorsidd slfevp at| elbow, which is done by hollowing the hindarm shout that particular point, ‘The various parts of fhe pattern Gin, as illustrated on Diagram 30, the forearm-seam, having thus been carefully testad, the next thinfe tp be cuff, and elbow being exactly thesame shape as the top- done is to mark side. ‘This system is a thoroughly reliable one, and pro- THE POCKETS duces most satisfactory-fitting sleeves. It should bo thoroughly mastered by the young cubter who wishes to succeed, We have endeavoured to deserihe the system in as much detail as possible up toa cortain point. There are, however, several other side issues, which we must nocesarily defer for tho present, Tu the meantime, this should be thoroughly practised and mastered, as the same system is used for all kinds of coats, and with 4 little adaptation is equally suitablo for ladies gar- ments Anu other details on the pattern, ‘This wil bf ffund| ‘ory sieful should the pattern be required ad has} flere timo, as we presume our readers, for] } timd. a any rate, will bo cutting special patterns fof Jeafh 4ndi-| vidual customer, it may be well for them to fai} them selves in the habit of marking the details qr edet [pst-| tem with the utmost: porible care. Some| qf th best| cultors make » note un the pattern of any spqeie} nani, pulation that may be resorted to in order to pfodacd the| dosived effect, either for the customer's aha) of fancy, whilst they also attach to the pattern a pico] of| tie samo matorial from whieh the garment is fit, ho fiat Tho pattern having boon drafted’ ont, as far ax the should ho; in future, select diferent material [shhy in| body and sleeves are concerned, it should now be cut, so be able to vary te manipulation im such al fraps to| that each part may be placed on the eloth in the most, PHluce tho same effect, A little time sft. fx [eis suitable position, Tn cutting the pattern ont, however, Way snabley the cutter to preserve some |ypry} wfeful TEwill Ue decepnicp thiesenien conslibectta,sare ay au MANGERE wilt ClA, the damp tine Gk daelaeld al alto theiitle liner-ne domly as coxitiioy ant ey, BSMaNMAMIGAGAcuhs ix muroilo be, enshl4a., rotain thot harmony of outline which will make the gare _ The hip pockets, 5 a rule, are marked alyhft 4 ihes ment artistic in the finish, Thus care should be taken below the level of the waist. They are p| when cutting the sideseam to ayoid disturbing the ba- He centre of the forepart, perhaps « trifle] healer] tho] ‘nig sidescam than the fronb edge, Tho wich of te poret-| flap may be mado about nf, 80 that for CUTTING THE PATTERN, ho Innes, and with that end in view, it is often advis to make a mark across at the top of the sideseam, and lf the width of thy shboup at| cul the foepart fully a fin. wide ab that particular chest the width of the] forfot{lap part, Tt is also a good plan to check the seams of the Would be from 6 to 64 inches. ‘The depth of thd fh}p is ytany.agrso an'tay'es' length #2812 {03} fookce ond caro meals taken ipl shpat is concerned, as well to notice that whon the corres fab edge of the fap in the same style as dip spropact ponding parts are pu together they may form one of the jacket, thu» reposting Uke sume idea of yl, Imrmonfous curve. Thus, when the back is put to the ¥d showing 1 consomines of idea which help} th n}ako| fovepart at the shoulder, thery should be a little excess the garment artistic IF a ticket pocket is qebirfd, |ihis| of wilth at the scye and. But, apart from that, the 1 wevally put: on tho waist level, the size lof the |isp| Ipvele stye stiould join the front shoulder so as to form a being about. 8 inches wide and about 3 ifthe} dep nice curve, as from A to B of Diagram 28. The neck the front edge being shaped the samo as tig fdreqtart, of the back should also join om to the neck of the fore- TY thoro is am outside breast-pocket, the welf falu}uld be] part, so as to avoid any angle at the seam, In like "ranged on the slant, the top ond being jhoub Ibvel planter, the eidlouay Of Ue ick ahiould épies with with: tho otsnax of tho eye, ayia aie tell babtord the length of the sideseam of the forepart, unless ib ig end of tho'wolt should be at Toast 1 dh in frbnf of| the intended to strain the back down a little at the waist, most forward part of tho seye, ‘The usual leigh df a| in which caso the back may be cut a trifle the shorter of bresst-posket- is about: 5 inches wide, and fie frelf is| the two, Tho paltern of the underside of the steeva i mde wp 1 inch doop, ‘Tho dogreo of slant x} yen to fis not gonorally cut separate from the topside, but if it is pocket isa matter of taste, and is varied Prafned G ave x epntllt orthis part, this com, Some of the, Don force sent sforoarm and hind. ‘bl, to get tho breast-porket to run in a line wth fore beet tee eae of ie: tons on ti one That, however] fm or Hindaem (Point 7, Diagram 90), shis being eo arranged pefere we proceed, to lay the pattern ow abel mheclil, tat, when makingup the underside will be strained and that is to various parts so. that: thn it will bo well to test the ler arm-ssams with those on theCUT THE COLLAR. ‘Thore are many cutters who loave this item to their workmon, and whilst there are many workmen who are in favour of that course, set it is cortainly your duty to low how to cut the collar, even though you should finally leave it in the hands of the workmen. Wo will, thorafore, give you a simple collar system (900 Dis. 81). Mako a mark ata Jin, abore the height of the top but- Now decide what height of collar-stard and what depth of fall you will have, Wovwill say, in the present case, that the height of the ollar-stand is to be Lin and the degth of fall 1Jin. Measure out irom 2 (which, by the way, is the liollowast part of the sorge), to 3 f Jin, Tess than tho dopth of the stand, and draw a straight line from 1 through 3 to 4. Measure down from 4 to 5, the difference betwe and depth of fall, in this eas Sin ton. the height of stand Draw a murve to tho cxease row of collar, from 9 through 3. Now measure mack to pont G, allowing for the width of back neck. From 5 to 6 is the depth of stand. Draw the sewing. to edge of collar from 6 through 2 to 8 The contre-seam of 6, and, as will be From § to 7 is the depth of fall. the collar at back is outlined by seen, there is a decided hollow at 9. Bron 7 to 9 is generally cut fairly straight, and the shape of the step at 9, 8, is quite a matter of taste, As a general rule, when the garment is finished, the step should open rather more than right angles. This, how- over, may be varied aevording to your own views as to what constitutes a good shape sb thab particular part. Cut ont this pattern as you have done the other parts, when ib will be ready for laying on the cloth. — This process we shall now give a description of on tho next page. We trust you will take to heart the few points whick have beon advocated with regard to careful ent ting, as well as to register on the pattern any points you way wish to specially observe when making-up. CUTTING FROM THE CLOTH. Our pattern now being ready, we begin to arrange the cloth fom which the garment is to be cut, and it goes it is very important to see that the right material is used, Tt is very desirable to make cortainty douhly sure if any doubt whatever should exist without saying. 10 THE CUTTING AND MAKING OF Louxans. in the eutter‘s mind. ‘This having been settl} the cloth and lay it down on tho cutting bo: fimsb thing to notice is whether there is dary] w the wool, ov whether there is any pattem oh the {fot witich would interfere with the lay, If there) if on the cloth, it must, of course, be arranged th p}n fmm at least, that is so with all materials excep} ydlveH{ et it being the custom to cut that material w}ti{ lhe pi running up, it being the general opinion tifall Ja Hu richer effect is thus produced. In all cases pf is desitable to have the different parts of the| running the same way, and it will be notiepel yy wwe aro giving in this ease is so arranged. | Ih) is 4hit possible that longer leagth of material is a this purpose, and whils: it is tho cutter's uth} td his garment out of as short. length of oth] sf hosffol it must be eonsistend with producing goo smartness of offect in the garment generally We now proceed to arrange the pattem of 4} an dit may be well for us to notice ono ox wach may be considered essential in the | reoms, The OUTSIDE COLLAR Should always be arranged without a seam, str be taken from illustrated by T on the accompanying lay collar should be taken oat on the bias, as ill 8 on thie lay, ‘This enables it to be manip} greater ease than if it was taken from the the material, If the back is to be eat on the it goes without: saying that the most advant tion for this part will he on she erase elge pt rial, but if, a8 sometimes happens, the matefi narrow width, then it must be arranged in ay such, for instance, as that illustrated on “The Pocket Edition of Practical and Eeon| ting,” 2 little book whieh, by the way, shoul hands of every cutter who desires to mal possible use of his material. and to sive hi} necessary worry. ‘This little book shows him]al h gl e the different parts of the pattern shoulht }} and also enables him to correctly estimate of material necessary for any style or size ight of the material THE QUESTION OF INLAYS| Ts a very important one, and chould reesive phoyie ale We are by no means advocates of leqvifle effet eral i tion sive inlays at all parts of the garment, Wo afe of opinion that they are detrimental to tho} af} and that it is desirable to reduce them to possible number, and to carefully avoid leaw if possible le uollow seanqa ‘The accompanying lay will give a very good illustra Hon of wha we consider the propor inlays to be left It will be noticed that an inlay about: half an inch wide las boon left. at the buck meck, about 1 inch has-been left along tho bottom of the back, and about in. has been loft down the hindarm of the topside sleeve. We prefer the topside sleeve to the underside for the simple reason that if the inlay is utilised i will bring tho s ath, We prefer the hindarm-seam to the fore anin-seam, because the former is round and the latter i hollow, About. 1Jin, is left. as the bottom of the sleave of both top and underside, as illustrated on 8 and 4 Provision has been made for the making-up of a slit eM at the bottom of the hindarm of the sndemide sleeve. About fin. or 1 inch is left down the sideseam of the foropart, and about fin, at the back seye, thus ee \\ es edge ooabling the garment to be taken in or lot out ab that About 1 jneh has part without distucbing the balance, berm left along the bottom of the forepart, hin, has been left ab the side, fin across the shoulder, and it is well to leave Jin, ab the neck. This, however, is not shown in the diagram, which ig an error on the engra- vor's part. The various parte of the pattern laving Ten atranged Tongthwiss on the material in as nearly the sume position as they will occu on the figure, it TO PLAN OUT ‘THE FITTINGS. Nos 5 and 6 illustrate the facing, which, as will be sren, is intended to go right through the shoulder, and to be a moderate width at the bottom of the forepart Tt would have been botter if the facing could have been arranged to be all in one place, but Lounge is net one THE CUTTEX'S PRACTICAL GUIDE of the the from be easitst garments’ to take ‘most ceonomiew! fashion rom the material in ‘The welt may be takew 1e miaterial as illustrated at 11 ‘The daps may ken from the part under 7, as only, one of the be taken from the part under 7, as only one of the piccen will be required for the outside collar. The pioces marked 10 and 12 msy be utilised Tor pocket facings, Whilst the tieketpocket yp may be obtained from the part indiested by 9. Having arranged all this, it may be well for you to form one er two habits. First of all, count up the varions parts of your pattern, thus; Back, forepart, topside alcove, underside sleeve, vollar, fucin flaps, and welts When you seo all these ate provided for, then take up die shears. Bofore, however, putting the shears o this cloth, be sure that attention has been pail to any pile thers niay be in the cloth, Now eut the gat ienb oul as carefully as possible, going exactly in the ines marked, and leaving the inlays as alceady described, It will only now be necessary for you te mark on the forepart. the position of where you desire the top and bottom buttons to be the hind and forearm pitchos of the ancl suchlike Now place the back on cero, details the forepart, the sleeves on the top of the back, and the remaining pieces for facing, ete., on the top of the sleave. Roll the garment up, tie it round with a piece of cloth selvedge We hat Suffice it tosay that the ususl quantity of cloth is from yds, to Iyds, double width. Ib is quite possible, however, to take a jacket and vest out of very little more material than is required te cut the jacket: oni though in this ease the facings would nob be nearly as ange. saul procved to write the ticket not given any length of cloth for this layto THE CUTTING AND WRITING THE TICKET OF INSTRUCTIONS, ‘The garment having been cut out, and the various ‘parts placed ou the top of ench other, the next operation ig to write the ticket, and in doing this it must. be borne in mind that we must givo such instructions to the workman 2 shall enable him to make the garment up in harmony with tho customer's wishes, It is, of course quite unnecessary to write ont an essay on the sibject of gurment-making with every garment you cut. Tn all workshops'there are certain unwritten regulations which sare recognised by the mon, so that it suffices for all_prac tical purposes to write on the tiekot such details of the garments as the customer may requise, together with any hints on finishing and makingsup which are out of the ordinary run, ‘Thus, if the customer is stooping or erect, or if there is any peculiar defect ab any part of the body, it-will be well for the cutter to write something to that effect: on the tickot, so that ho may avail him. self of the cooporation of the workmen in producing a successful garment. In many firms printed tickets aro ‘this purpose, and they certainty facilitate the ‘used for Wo. Hors Neme—0. A, Store, Bea Garment 82. Loange Eigee-Singlentiched Bolt ve fap i by % Ticks, tap! 4 5 14 Gin ou breast et, 8 By . ratty 1, Eia banat” eeete aaa eee SSR IEE. ge Bee ee Ee Remarks-Shoulers lightly bute ip, Yd asa Tile takot tna bosch stan Woscen's Pay Toxer Nout Nie—Saith Ctr Sigonane Prive mattor vory considerably, Here is an example of such a ticket. It will be scen that itis intended for this ticket to be filled up with the munber of hours by the workman, Tt will be checked by the cutter, who will mark the smnouat to be paid for the making of this garment, on the workman's pay ticket, ‘This will enable swn on the garment: by the workaman when it is Qnished, aud will enable the etter to check the ticket to be the variows details with ease ‘This looks a comparatively simple matter, and yet ‘the writing of a tickot has more practical value in it to many cutters than being able to diseostse on tho inteica es of a mumber of systems which they never use. Te Is just ono of those little points of business procedure which has very much to. do with the success al Te away seem a comparatively easy matter vo put 16 MAKING OF LOUNGES. ‘on paper the date be tried on, and y and the time when the garment i to when the workman las this in front of him, there is far less likeliLood of his overlooking the matter than would be the case if the instructions vere given to him by word of mouth. It so often happens in the tailoring trade, a8 in all other branches of life, that verbal agreements stand for very little, Th is only when the mma:ter is put in writing, and is passed from, one party to the other, that, its binding character is re alised ; therefore, we would urge our readers who desire to exeel to pay particular attention to this comparatively wivial detail of ente \g-room experince: Most. young cutters will, of course, have to trim the garment for themselves, but should they be engaged in a firm where the trimming is done by someono engaged exclusively for that purpose, then the ticket will be tise ful in conveying to him information which will enable him to trim the garment completely and satisfactorily. Some first-class houses have their tickets arranged in duplicate form, a practice which is certainly very help- ful when the garments are made by outworkers, as it emubles them to keep a constant record of the instruc tions given to each workman, and also to know what workman is making up any particular garment should ths. cutter forget, or be absent from the eattingtoom for any particular reason, ‘Young menwill do well to lay this lesson particularly, to heurt, as i often happens that those who have spent 1 few yours on the shopboard do not suficiently realise the importance to be attached to proper business ar rangements in the discharge of the duties of the cul- ting-room, sit is not only cutting a amment well and wing it made up properly that makes a successful cutter, bub alo the discharge of his duties in a business: like manner, insuring aceuraey as well as. punctuality in all his engagements TRIMMING, Our next duty i to trim the garment before handing it to the workman, and we will assume that, the details of the order have been thoroughly grasped. in harmony with ticket. printed on another page Befors commencing to trim, it is desirable that we should understand the kind and style of garment. we are trimming. For not only must the trimmings harmonise with the material and price te be paid for the finished garment, but they must also harmonise with the sub- stance of the clot from which whe garment has. been eu, By thiswo mean that heavy trimming must be used ‘on heavy cloths, whilst those garments which are cut fiom thin materials must be trhumed with goods of soft finish and Tight weight,16 MATOHIN The other point tha: must ever be borne in mind is to match the trimming carefully, and in doing this it will he well to romembor that silk worlis in lighter, and cotton darkor, than it appears beforehand. As 9 i will bo well to have the linings rather to the dark ule side than athorwise; at last, that isa good rule to fol low when trimming gentlomens’ garmen Hy ‘on die consideration to these: points, wo pr First of all comes d to cut all the trimmings in the following order, THE CANVAS For general purposes in a mediumelass trade, French canvas ig mostly used, but for the heavier materials a dandy canvas is to be preferred. Both makes are to be obtained in black and dra and for darker cloths there The quantity of canvas required will vary according to the Tength of the cont, but, as a ge it, will rom tho actual longth necessary being equiva to two or three is no reasoa why the black should not be used. eral. rule, lont to the length from the nedkp. the pocket mouth gram will show iow this reference to the On this it will & arranged. ied the frout of the canvas being kept on the straight, whilst the collar canvases are niches below ai be scen thai we have illust wepart e We know there are many tailors whe prefer toa their eanvas through the foreparts with the fronts on fhe bits, as they contend that by so doing they lave tho straight thread on the erea a bottor stay to the pocket-mouth, whilst at the sume time it affords fuller seope for the wo ing up of th: front edge, and provides a receptacle for the breast ‘Thero is much force in these arguments, but whichever plan is adopted, the length of the canvas will be the same. We merely illustrate on this diagram the plan more generally followed. It will be noticed that we hove roughly indicated the threads of canvas on the tollar, and our object in doing this is to show our idea of how the canvas should run. ‘The collar ennvases are ut separately, the front part beng kept with the it thread of the cuvas. Having cut. all our can: vas, we next proesed to CUP THE LININGS, DIAGRAM 2 The body lining is usually from Italian cloth, Verona. or Victoria twill. Thess are now generlly made from HM to 56 inches wide, and cutting off the necessary quan- ry to take the hak and forepart and lay it down on the lining, and aiter making sufficient the centre of back, anda fon to the front, facing tity ib will be neces provision for a pleat dow suficient overlap for seami THE cUrTER's practic, L GUIDE then marke roughly rout ngs and cut as illustinted, 1. Make provision This will leave end on the Italian cloth, but that may be ut trimming the next gurment, Whilst advocating economy inthe matter of it is quite a mistaken poliey to stint the lini sarily, as this would prove a fruitful souree| ‘The sleeve lining ‘cubout from striped Sileia or sateen. ‘This mide 40 inches wide w pair oil fen olit of the width comfortably (Ding that all that is necesary for onlinary purpo} in the finished garment: and enable to cut off a length agrocing with th from sleevchead to hottou of eut, We now Tenge aot re turup ab bottom: mate procoid. to ial for THE pock TS. DIAGRAM 4 Silesia is mostly wed for this purpose companying diagram we have illustrated the ‘of two hip-pockets and ticket-pockets, and t Tho hip:porkets aro cut 8 inches pockets, hackp long at the front larger pockets are required, then, of course ex art. 4 by 5, breast-porkets 7 inches wid and 8 inches loy at the must be given but for all ordinary purposes t tated will sulfice so that the amount of necessary for the five Lounge pockets would be here THE LINEN. DIAGRAM reaiibek (many wall fort Go tein Blots do ibegle wilh wines of fein fete? Sok each peck mently AS sbeip‘ftl down the ont to take the tnitonsole 4 ot in tong tho eens eds ta form the bri dap hnewpn wh} £ fief| eually leoherally ledves fo m3), fo Fill fo sleofo le theTo Tre strip connects the back of the ticket-pocket with the whilst: two other strips form the stays from the back of the ticket-pocket. to the siceseam, Now, geuerally speaking, these strips should be Lin. wide, althoagh that, used for the bridle and tidket-packet stay should only be 1 inch wide, IF we allow two strips, 1a by 1} for the front, two strips 9 by 14 for the hip- pockets, two strips 7 by 1} for the breust-pockets, two strips 6 by 14 for sidestays, and 1 strip 5 by 12 for tho ticket-pocket ; this will require two strips LJin, wide tight aeross the linen. Another strip 1 inch wide will provide the bridlo and ticket-pocket stay, 99 that 4 inehes of Tinen 40 inches wide will snfice for this pur pose, If any linen is required for the makingup of the calls, the pieces left over from the narrow strip will bo sulficient, These are the five principal trimmings, and should be eit. in the order given, namely (1). canvas, (2) body lining, (8) sleeve lining, (4) pockets, (5) linen, We now proceed with the MINOR DETAILS. A piece of shoulderpadding is requived, which, by: the-byey will generally be forthoming from utd pieces left from entting, and should be about the size of the hand. Next come the: buttons, four 2line, oF coat size, and four 221ine, or vost size, more or less necord- ing to die number of buttons desired, About three yards of stay-tape for the edges and pocket-mouths (if wed for the latter), one yard of twist to match, and two skeins of sewing silk to match. This is the amount required for tacking an felling purposes, and does nob include the amount: neoissary for stitching the eiges, i being the custom m most trades now to use the machine for this purpose, If the garment is to be made en- tirely by hand, then two or three extra skeins of silk will bo necessary, If the thread is given out with exch garment, thon about thiree skeins of thread for buttons and pockets will be required. If horschait is put gh the shoulders, about § or 9 inches must be given, the hanger-up or address label must. be put in to give completeness to the garment. ‘Thus, in addition, to the five principal trimmings, there axe five minor items, consisting of (1) shoulder padding, (2) buttons, @) twist, () silk and Mresd, and (5) hanger-up or address Inbel. It is very important thst the trimming should be put into the garment before handing it to the workman, so ‘hat it will bo just as woll to bear in mind the numbers iven, so that they may be repeated each time @ garment is (rimmed, All the trimmings have been cut off, roll the job up in canvas, placing the ticket on the outside, CUPTING AND MAKING OF 17 Louxers, and tie it together with stay-tape, It is then ready to be handed to the workman, who will take the job in hand and prepare it for trying-on We will suppose that the workman has come into the eattingroom, and we are haying A LITTLE CHAT With him as to how the garment shall be made up. In doing so, we will discuss a fow points which, aiter having been onve decided xpon, it wonld not. be noses sary to refer to again except in the ease of new wi men. Indeed. they might be looked upon aa somo of the acknowledged regulations of the workshop, ‘To hegin with, we should point out to the workman our desire that he should nfuse a little shape inte the shoulders by the aid of the iron, and in co views on this point to him, we should take the shoulder, fold it down the cont» as illustrated in Dingea ny and point out how we wish the middle of the shoulders shrunk and the sides strotehed, ‘Tho result of this would be that when the shoulder was Inid on the fat the ap- pearance would bo vory much the same as illustrated om ‘the top part of Diagram 2. We would thon make a Passing roference or two to tho linen stays which were to be put in at the back of the pockets. trated on Diagenm 2, and should extend’ aboub 1 i beyond tho end of the pocket-mouth. ‘They should be out about 1fin, wide, the ataigh’ thread of the linen running parallel to the poekot-mouth. Wo do not think it necesuty to use stay-tapes in addition to this. linen, ‘These are illus: as, in our opinion, it would be apt to make it chums Passing to Diagram 3, we should point out that. when- je should requits a facing ow th ‘Tins a facing would be 1 he put in a pocket w inside as well as the outside, sewn on at the bottom of the pocket-mouth oa the hips the Sifesia being stitched to the facing, whieh wold be turned over and made to form a neat jeating, In connection with, THE CANVAS AND ‘THE SIDESTAYS, Or the pockets, we might lieve a little conversition with the journeyman: We Inve already referred to the difference of opinion on the question as to whether the canvas should be put through the fronts on the straight for on tho bias, On Diagram 4 we have illustrated the eanyas on the bias up the front, and in connection. with th lated, the form of the breast being move readily inftsed ‘The apo 1mo time, the bridle can. be disposed is-ndvoeated that tho front. can he easier manip than when the canvas is put im on tho straight font edge is very readily stayed by the aid of at ov linen. At the ‘with along the crease row, and as it is om the bing just18 in the hollow of the ib is unnecessary to insert ‘Vis atithat part: This is illtstrated on Diagiam 4, Of course, it woutld Lo understood tihit linen would be put under the buttonholes, and the canvas cut away, that the stay-tape should be only sewn down the front, and that the front edges should be slightly drawn in, especi- ally over tae breast, ‘Theu, in connection with the pockets, the back stay of the tickot-pocket would be secured to the canvas, whilst that of the hip-pocket car- <1 em atte: into tho sideseam or the seye, the front of the linen going in a straight line frem the tacking to the part where it joins the seam Tt would be well to state to the workman your views fon the Tength of the eanvas, it being the custom of many good firms to carry it right through to the bottom, as iMustrated on Diagram 6, This hag its advantages, and is, pechaps, all things considered, a better method th’ that shown on Diagram 4, On Diagram 5 we have illustrated THe CUTTER'S PRACTICAL. GUIDE, THE USE OF LINEN Down the frout edge in lien of stay-tape, In the: opinion of many thismakes a firmer and better edge than ape. On this diagram we have also illustrated the wie af horsehair in the shoulders, and there is no jderable assistance in the produc- shoulder, die advantage being more doubt: that it is a eo tion of a cleansitti matked when the material is not too heavy. Tt will be sen from the diagram that we have yang-d the hiair to run aevoss tho shoulder, as that gives by far the best effect. ‘The shape illustrated on this dine gran will given gooil iden of the most approved form in which it is inserted, ‘The top of the shoulder-seam should be followed, and i below the turn. ould extind about 2 or 3 inches y Ve which wre inserted in the bul before vias should also be inserted in the horsehair it is eectred to the canvas it should be carefully bound with © sivip of Silesia, eut on the bias, othetwise it would prove most uncomfortable in wear, the hair fore- ing itself through the facing. ‘This being done, it may ‘be secured to the canvas up the eotre and round the sides, always beating in mind that: the cloth his to be nurower thin the inside, The shoulder being hollow. the coat should be built up with that end in view, so as to produce.» shoulder ananipulated into a, hollow Diagram 6 introduces us to a very important subject, namely, the avoidance of fulness on the top of the side Seam. You will, of conrse, have taken special prec: tions in the cutting to avoid fullness at the top of side- seam, but as this isa very dificult part to fit in three: Tor the workman sean garments, it will ke advisable to back wp your efforts by hic maxipulation, Conse quently, you will soe that a drawing thread is placed in the back seye, the fulness being worked buck to form 4 receptacle for the shoulder blades, Round the back erted, the result of Diagram 7 seye a small piece of wadding is i these efforts boing a clean-fitting back soye. illustrates the inside finish of the shoulders and lining, ‘THE SHOULDERS. ‘Tho shoulders are stitched, a piece of shoulder pad. ding being stitched on to the facing ach style ‘The inside breast-pockot is jeated top. And bottom, and a pleat is ananged in the lining over the cut lining felled on to it. 3 illustratod, ‘The inlay at hottom is tuned up, and the ‘Tae buttoncholes are pul ab rexu lar distances apart, the hole in the tum being worked without an eyelet extending from Dingrim 8 shows the: narrow faci ‘about 1 inch behind the necs-point, the Ttalian cloth joining it up to that position, A. pices of cloth lias been joined. on to form the pocketmonth, and in other re~pects th exception that the lining is brought right to the edge. Needless to eny, Diagram 7 wo consider to he far supe- rior to Diagram 8. The small sectional drawing just above Diagram: 7 illutrater a good mothod of building. finish is tho same as Diagram 7, with the up tho shoulders when such a practice is resorted te, AS will bo scon, this consists of a large loth padl, on the top of which is arranged a hale-ply of wedding, this Inter boing out decidedly smaller, A pioes of canvas, fut creseeat-shape, would be put on the top of that, and than a shouldorpad such as can be purchased, arranged ‘on the top of the eanyas, the whole being firmly secured together. We do not advocate this square shoulder type, fand in out opinion it is 4 Still, customers dosiro if soeaaionally, and it is x necessary part of the cuttar’s elucation that he should be sble to produce it when docited "To tho left of Diagram § we illustrate the inside of tho collar with the stand stitched. Tho object of the stitehing is to make the stand of the collar firm, and this eait be hettor produood by stitching than by padding monsteosity. ‘The object: of tho stitching is to make the collar curl ‘This iy necessary Tor the fall, our aim being to sow thas oper stitch. and not for one kind of stitehing to be used all over olla. the different, parte should each Lave their pri the Di ov canvas has beam put on the back of the stitching about 33) "The Ling is lash- aisted to the seams, there being at least half an inch The isting ef the lining relieves the strain on the sleevohoai, and leo prevents the sleeve lining being On Diagram 10 we ihustrate m9 illustrates the gloove. A pisce of linen chee wp from the bottom of lining showing ove the top of the sleeve pnb in short THE SEWING ON OF THE COLLAR, And the putting in of the sleeves. Taking the first operation, the gollar should be put on plain, or at least tho slightoot hit tight from 1 to 2. From % to 3 the ‘This wo have endea- fourmd to illusteate hy the wavy mark, From 3 to 4 the collar should be put on plain, ortho least bit tight. ‘This would gioatly facilitate tho At of the collar. ‘We now come to tle putting in of the sleoves, From 5 to 6 should be put in plain collar should be put on longer, ‘This extends to. an inch From 6 to 8 ly arranged, the prineipal part of the fulness going over the shoulder bone to the part marked 7. Round the hack aye, from O to 0, the sleeve should be put in tight, and if any fulness exists it should be put in in a pleat at point 8. Sich, then fare somo of the regulations that we should have with our men respecting the making-ap. and a half in front of the shoulder-seam, the fulness shouldbe ni 10 THE CUPTING AND MAXING OF LOUNGES. im the preliminay chab with your workmen, it will bbo well for you to bear in mind the price that is paid for the Gnished garment, as it sometimes happens that a eutter who bas worked in a high-lass trade, say, in the Wost E distriet where the prices pald for making-upare consider: nd of London, obtains a situation im some ably below those hie received when on the board, and although ho is porfectly satistied that the way le made garments up would produce the very best results, yeb shore the price pail is dd. or Jd. per hour, it would bbe obviously unfair to expect the seme skill and atten- tion to detail as would be the ease if O§d. or 7d. per hour wis the price paid. Tt is certainly desirable’ that the eutter should know the very best: possible method of mont, so that ifs really superior article is desired he jing wp tho gw may instruct his worlanen wccordingly, and ab the sume time give them the ‘necessary increase of price whieh Will make it worth their while to take the necessary pains to carry out his instructions ‘The accompanying diagram, which iy the photo of the inside of a garment, would give some idea. of the ind of work that is put into the trade by some firms. Tewill bo observed that not only is the lapel aad collar20 ‘THE cUTYRR'S PRACTICAL GUIDE added ia: much closer style then the regulation four rows to the ich would demand, but the slioulder, with its canvas and padding, is worked up in the most elabo- rate style, so that the wonder would be if a wrinkle should happen in such a garment. It. will be observed tint a cut is takon out of the canvas just in font of the tireak, whilst another is taken out opposite the most prominent part of the breast, a third one being taken from the sie of the eanvas, slanting ap in the same direction. Linen has heen put on for the button-holes, and ths staytapo has boon carefully arranged around the ge; the pocket is stayed up into the seye, and the seneral details of the inside of this garment are admi- ably portrayed, and if they serve no other purpose than to show how good tailoring should be done, then vve shall not have given this illustration in vain. Wo: would, however, again emphasise what we have already id, namely, that it would be obviously unfair to expect this kind of workmanship in « Lounge, when Ts. cr 8 is. paid for making. Tho workman 4s worthy of lis hins, aud it should always be made possible for him to cain a fair wage, Coming from general to PARTICULAR INSTRUCTIONS, You will find it desivable to have « little chat with your workiien from time to time. so that, they may renlise tli peculiarities of the customer for whom. the making the garment: You will, of course, mark the piteh of sleeve on both back and forepart, thus reliew- ing the workman of any responsibility. At the same time, when the customer is exert or stooping, of, in deed, vlien any other abnormality exists it will be well to tell him. 40, that when he baiets the slieve in and finds iv forvard-hanging, he will know that, that has beon arranged for a special purpose, It will also. greatly facilitate your offorts in producing a fit, ae special types of figure require a different style of collar, snd as the supe of this Is largely the result of manipalation, it will be in the hands of your workman to produce the ny effect, ‘The erect funice equines a longer ereaso row and a shorter fall edge, whereas the stooping figure requires a shorter crease row and a longer fall igo, so that you will do well to have a little chat with your workman on peculiarities of this sort, It will also ibe desixable to ditect his attention to any. speciality, tint may be desired. Indeed, we axe of opinion that thio mere confidences there are exchanged between the workman and the cutter, and that they both realise the spirit of co-operation, the better results will brachievod You now hand the garment over to the workman to PREPARE FOR TRYINGON, And as thore are various methods of deing his, ib will be necessary for you to have an understanding with him, The plan we consider best is known as the forward hist, when the garment may be locked upon as half nished, All the svams aro sewn with the exception of the nock and sideseams, ‘The facing is sewn on, the. lining is baisted over, any wadding or padding is in- serted, all presing and manipulation is done, and the gamnont is thes in a stato which will onable tho cus tomer to form a good idea of what it will be like when finished. OF the skeleton baist we have a very poor opinion, believing it. ig more likely to result in alterations than to produce a success, whilat the full baist is expensive, and nob likely to prove as satisfactory as the forward baist, You will structions respecting the time when the garment is to bo tried on ,as well as finished, and you mast so arrange the work which you give him that it shall be possible for him to camy out your orders in this respect, In all your dealings with ‘the workman, make it very plain to him that yon will expect every detail of the order carefully attended to, ani that you will nob counten- anes or pass orer anything of . slipslod character. "The question of the relationship of the cutter with tho workman is a vory wide one, aud wo hope the fow suggestions we have here given will suffies to indicate our idea as to how the garment should be made up, and how the workman should be treated of couse, give your worksan full in- TRYING.ON. ‘We will assume the journeyman has carried out on wishes in preparing the garment for teyingon he haa browht it into the cutting-room, and we have made a preliminary esamimation; and, ag it appears satisfac. tory; we confidently await, the arrival of our customer. Tn due couse he keeps his appointment: and, having aovisted him Jn taking of his coat, wo proveed to pub fon tho prepared gament, with a view of obtaining his Wishes, and to make our own observations on thie Mi Ii is of tho utmost. importance that the garment should be put on properly, and this should ooeupy: the first attention of the cutter. ‘This having been done, it, will be as woll to address yourself to the customer with: “Is i confortable, sir * Your customer may have very different ideas to your- olf as to what really constititos enmfort. ‘The toply he gives will be in harmony with his own taste, and ib ‘must be ever borne in mind that you have to plesse your customer as vrell as to give him a satisfactory fit. Tb sometimes happens that when a eustomer presents him- self to tay on the gurment,, he is inclined to be talka tive, and if you are to produce a satisfactory ft it will Tho noessinry for you to give your boat attention to frying on the garment, wd to delay conversation il you have made your last observations on the At or style of it, The jacket having been put on the customer, notice if THE BALANUE IS CORRE! v And, if it hangs away behind, you may’ take it for granted that the front shoulder is too long, whereas if there isa tightness on the hips and a genoral dragging ‘uoross from front to back, the eauso is 2 teo short front shoulder. We must assume, hoover. that im this ease the balance is correct, as our present lesson is to be de- voted to trying-on rather than making alterations.YO THE CUTTING AND MAKING OF LOUNGES. a1 Having satisfied yourself that the garment is correct in tho balance, fasten together in front either by buttons or by pins, We may now proceod wo make a SYSTEMATICAL BX AMINATION Of the garment, and ve commence at the top of the Daek neck (see Point 1, Fig, 1), tho collar should be of the right height, and the top part of the back should ft smoothly across the figure. We next proceed to Point 2, the top of thesidescam, or the hack of seye, This part requires very careful watching in tho Lounge, there boing « genoral tondeney for fulness to show its.(T in that part, ‘Tht At of the ‘waist a back and sides now claims our attention, This might be looked upon as the third point, whilst the fourth is to be found at the bottom part of the back, and deals with the fit of the garment over the hips, ‘THE FRONT OF THE GARMENT, ‘And the frst point to notice in this connection is height of buttoning aad the xin of the exwase row of the collar and tarn, or what may be deseribod as the rock part of the garment. From tis we past to the shoulder, Point §, and this being a very important part of the garment, should receive very careful attention TE is not always casy to fit the shoulder, especially when the shoulders ae laygely developed. Point 10 deals with the breast of the garment. From the front of wye to front edge, and the list point te motiee is 11, the bottom of the forepart, this should be in har- mony with the back, Tastly, aw that the shape, agrees with your custamer's wishis. If any alterations are necessary, it is certainly desirable to mark them, other wiso they may he overlooked Fig. 1, practically include all the necessary ob- We now come sorvations so far as the back is concemed to the side of the garment, and make our obsrvations about tho sleeve, Point 5 dealing with the balance’ of the sleeves. The sleeve should, follow the hang of the arm, and as these vary in different eustom- ers, the sloove must be balaneed “in the seye to agree with tho wearer's requitements, Oar noxb observations deal with the length of the sleeve (Point 6), and as many customers have decided notious in Uhis matter, it may be well to consult, your custamer’s wishes, AS ‘a general rule, the length of thie sleeve should come to the wristbone. The next point to be observed ig the width of the slocve, as indiested on Point 7, which, of course, refers to the width of the sleeve in its entire length from seye to cull, The width is generally a. matter of taste, fashion at present dictating a. some- what largo cuff and slightly narrower at the elbow a compared to what was worn some years ago. We now come to Fig. 2. Fie 3. FURTHER HINTS ON MAKIN FACINGS, LININGS, BTC. Tn the next three dingras we give illustrations of tho finish of facings, linings, ete On Diagram 17 we hhave facings only extending to neck-point A, and kept narrow all down the front to HL; this may be necessary from shortness of moterial, or to keep the garmens as light as posible for tropical climates. If the former is tho reason, we slionld advoeate putting a pieon of extra padding through the shoulder, serging it on to the fac~ ing s as to avoid the break which would otherwise ‘Tn all eases see that there is more width given to the facing at A B thon to the outside, as the shoulder boing hollow requires more wiclth for the inside than the out- side, In thie illustration the living is put in plain, and eaevied right to the bottom, and altogether it ig not what we should consider good form.2 Diagram 18 is more our ideal; in this the facings ave carried right through the shoulder, and extend wide enough at brosst to take in the breast-pocket. About inches above the bottom of scye a V has been in. serled, iat being tho position mod favoured to. give ease to the facing at that part the greatest. shaping, however, is ab the tep of shoulder, and ther is no: doubt those who advocate the insertion of Vas P, Diagram 19, ave a good deal on the side. On Diagram 19 we have illustrated two Vs; this, however, is only necessary when the material is. very stubborn; indeed, in the majority of materials suflicient form may be infused without any. V's. MARKING, ALTERATIONS, It is very probable before you have tried on many garments you will experience the necessity of having ‘some method lof marking abberations. ‘This will not necostnrily atiso ftom defoetive eutting, i may be you hhave hardly grasped your customer's wishes, or it may he quite possible that he may have altered his mind re- specting the style of garment desired, Tn aay ease it will he your duty to embody his wishes fas far as lies in your power, that being the principal object you set before you in trying-on, and we advise you to have a different mark for the diferent kinds of Alterations required in order to heip you in this diree- tion Tn Diagram 1 we have portrayed an outline of a Lounge with every possible kind of alteration marked on it. Do nob be afraid of using tho pipeelay for this AND RECUTTING. THE CUPTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE Tk is a very dangerous practice to trust to and thoee is nothing 20 amnoying toa customer wt hone that the wishes fon the garment had puurpos memo as to ind when the garment is which he expressed when try boen ignored, Consequently, we advise you to chalk marl any altorations required, ‘The first mark we have indicated is the horizontal line this may cither mean shorten or let out, and we usually take a single line to mean fin, two lines Jin, and three lines. jin, ‘and so on} this {wo lines applied to the bottom of the ed by 1, would mean shorten sleeve ‘three linos at the hips, mark one, would mein let ‘wo lines ab Ue bottom of the forepart would out fin. 5 “For the reverse of these alterations we use vertical lines, so when they appear on-any part of the garment we cither mean to lengthen or take in, Thuy ab the Dottom of the sleeve, marked 2, are two vortienl Hines, ‘hich means lengthen tho sleeve Jin, the three vertical lines at the bottom of the forepart would indicate longthen i at that part fim,; two vertical lines on the hhips, marked 2, would convey to our mind that it was necessary to redueo the size Jin. at that part. 'y line is generally understood in tailoring fin or shrink, and we show itfor this pur- pos aa indicated by 3, which infers that the front of the jucket requires drawing in, ‘Tho fanshape marks at 4 indicate siretch, thus the fan-shape marks at the neck mared 4 would indicate stretch the ned; the fanshaps marks at tho shoulder at the top of the sleere would indicate stretch the shoulder. ‘The oval-shape mark indicated at 5 would men reiuce the waddingTo THR CUTTING AND MAKING OF LOUNGES ab that part, whilst the eress marks at this point would show that wadding was"required. The Inst mark shown ‘0 thie diagram i 7, which would indicate the position tf the breastline or the mesting edge-tocige line of the garment, ‘All alterations should be indicated in this way when the garment is on the customer, and after he is gone it will be well for you to recut your garment: before hand- ing it in to the workmem, and that is best done by taking the sleeve out and the collar ofl, and the sur ment laid fiat, as shown by Dingtam 2. OF course, if any alterations are required at the sidesenme, it would bbe necessary to separate the forepart from the back in ardor to rechalle the outline of the sideseams, Tn handing te garment baele to your workmen, be explici in your instructions, and be sure that they un derstand precisely what. you require; better to. repeat the instructions two or three times than be mistinder- Mood. TL is generally far easier to avoid a mistake tian to rectify one. Standing in front of the glass, a2 illustrated on Din gram 1, yon will be able to notice if the collar ® in harmony with he lapels, the run of Front even and tres, and the general smoothness of the garment what it should be, sure to show itself when on the body, If tho linings are in tight it will be pretty With the gar- ment still on, put your hauds in the pocket= and feo! if they are sewn up. If tho garment passes this etage satisfactorily, tako it olf, put your hands in the shoul dors, and eramine the shape of the collar as it pre itself to you, something iu the style of Dingram 2. You will then be able to notice if the crease row iy short enongh, and in camining this pa mind that the ereaso raw must be very much sho-ver for a stooping figure and longer for an erect figure This means, in other words, that the curve. shonlé be much more for a-stooping figure and longer for an erect figure, and vice-versa. Now put the left hand inside the left-hand shoulder, examine ents t yon must bear in ‘Your worfamen should now procesd to finish the gar- nient in harmony with your instructions, EXAMINING THE FINISHED GARMENT. ‘The workman hnving finished the garment, he brings it into the cutting-room for you to examine and pass As this operation is not always done as thoroughly as t deserves, we shall devote a little space to the deserip- tion of “How to Examine a Jacket.” Gn taking the garment from the workman's hnnd, your best plan will be to put it on your own body if possibie, then stand in front of the glass and assume the sttitude of your customer as nearly as you ean remem ber it, You will then be able to notice the general effect on the garment, whilst the very fact of your put= ting it on will avoid the possibility of your sending the garment home with twisted sleeve linings. ‘THE LAPELS, ‘The shoulders, and the sloovehead. Having repeated thie oporation on the othor side, lay the jnckot: down on the cutting-beard as illustrated on Diagram 8, ancl here notieo if the edges, the buttons, and button-holes, the pocket aps and the scams, and the general finish of the outside, and especially note that. every detail has been done in harmony with your customers require inenits, It will be well for you to give # look ta the roams to se if they mre sown properly, same time, to notice if the pressing of the garment bas been done correctly, If tho garment haw been property manipulated, the forepart will show provision for the round of the chest, and this being done, we proceed to examine the inside of the garment in tho :amo way. Tam the garment over, lay it on the cuttine-board as shown on Diagram 4, and, whilst examining the deiails, and, at the24 THE OUTTER’s Practical, GUIDE very carefully, do not forget that thinness and neatmess are the two leading characteristics of high-class tailor- ing, and that the infusion of form is of more importance than merely thide sewing A pleat, should be loft down the Kining in the Sentre of the back, and also under the arms, but as we have already rolorred to thie and similar points cloowhore, sie will not repeat them. If you nre-not satisfied with as we have indicated, ‘There is one othe point we must not neglect to mention in comection with examining ‘the garment, and that is when you find it has been eave fully made, form infused, and every possible attention has beon paid to your instructions: do not hesitate to give a word of commendation to the workman, A little praise is a most powerful stimulus in the production of excellence, amd if you ean only make the man feel that hho hias'a reputation for deing his work well, he will scorn y of the parts, have thom rectified, Tt is always better to prevent the for alteration than to have it sent back with an angry lester. Careful nent being returned ATTENTION TO DETAIL Is a very important qualification for examining the garment, and in order thet no part should he overlooked, % will be well to follow some systematic order such, the idea of scamping it, Ib will be as well for you to to do nd al though yours is to be “the hand to guide and the mind il which realise that your workmen have quite as mue with the su ress of the garment as you hai ? yet, after al], it is the workman's “ bronght to a sucecesful nish, Let ¢ to dire has to be practical jod if the garment is to be ‘ecling of ¢o. operation exist, and when a satisfactory finish has. bec arrived st, give the workman whaterer praise is due to him for his painstaking effort,‘TO THE CUTTING AND MAKING OF LOUNGES. ww FOLDING AND PACKING A GARMENT. ‘The garment is now ready to be folded and packed up, and as a very grea: deal depends on this compara: tively important operation, it will be well for us to olfer a few comments on this operation. in connection with executing an order for a Lounge Jacket. We, of course, assume that every detail of the cus tomer's orelee has been carefully carried out, and the xamination previously described has proved entirely mtisfactory; we proceed to give the garment a brush, and then fold it up. We lay the garment on the eut- ting-board in front: of us, and fold the sleeves over 80 that the is thon tured back on top of the slecvea aa illustrated by Diagram 2, the two sides then folded one on top of tho other, a8 illustrated on Diagram 8; then fold tho bottom of the back over, and give one mote fold to the garment leagthways, 25 illustrated on Diagram 4, thon the jacket is ready for packing up. In folding a garment the aim should be to avoid all amnecessary creases, and it seems to be a general opinion of tho trade that the plan hece illustrated ia the most We have soon somo tailors who have folded ‘coat up with the collar tured down, but we do nob, think this is as good as the plan illustrated on Diagrams 1 to4. Asoum + the front. uf comes just below the erease-r0 1 there are no other garments to be enclosed We first and on in the samo parcel, we proceed to puck it up. tolect a piece of brown paper of convenient i this we place piece of white paper rather smaller; wwe then pines the falded jackot about the middle of thi and fold over the edge of the brown paper which is far- Now brown paper which is nearest to test from you? this is Musteated on Disgram 5. bring the edge of th: you over the top of the jacket, and then bring the elge farthest from you over on the top of that. Do not althmpt to pack the parcel too tightly, although it is highly desirable that’ a slovenly appearance should be syoided. ‘The paper having been wrapped round the jacket, we take a piece of string, place it-round the par el, bout one-third from tho end, form a slip knot, and drwy the: string close, We then put the string round the parcel a second time, about one-third from the other end, as illustrated on Diagram 6. Woe proceed, then, to tura the corners of the other sido, and place it. round hoth strings, aa illustrated on Diagram 7; turn the par- , fold in the corners of the other end, as shown on Dingram 8, bring tho string up and fasten it cel over agai at the starting point, The parcel is now parked and ready for the address Tabel. Tt may be secured between thie two strings ag shown on Diagram 9, and may be dospatched either by train or by porter to its destina- tion, Tt may be well, howsver, ab this stage, to conform to the enstom of the tra 0 to entry; there are some bespoke trades who enter up their day-book: with rofere from tho ordurhook; there are others who expect every parcel to be entered in the day-book when it is de- spatched, but whichever plan i followed, the extter must conform to the routine of the firm in which he is en= aged. out that it is desirable to wse paper of good quality for packing the garment which you have made, A very great deal depends on first impressions, and although, strictly? speaking, the jacket which is sent home packed in a piece of dirty newspaper, and tied round with a piece of string which seems to be all knota, may be quite as well, if not better made than a garment that is sent Th may be well for us to poi home nicely folded and packed ina cardboard box, yet there can be little doubt: that the impression conveyed to the custorice’s mind will bo all im favour of the gar- ment sent home in the box, and all against. the one sent home in the diety newspaper. Wo are docidedly spent in tissue paper Wisely laid out. Tb is not of the opinion that a little mom and cardboard boxes is anon s0 important to pack a tweed Lounge in a box as it would be a Dress Coat, consequently we have illustrated a description of packing up a parcel rather than putting it into a box, as we find in our contact with young men fa very stall mumber of them are able to pack ap a parcel in a businesslike manner, and as ths majority of young men who take positions in the autting-room not only have to cut and examine the garment, bub must also pack it up and send it home in good form.THE PITTING LOUNGE. For some time past Lounges have been getting very muted closer-fitting than was formerly the ease, so that many of the ultyefashionable set have been wearing then as close-ftting as a body-coat, and although the general run of enstomers avoid extremes, yet they do not cate to be left behind iu the march of fashion, con- sequently they otder a modified form of the latest style, ‘and itis this that we illustrate on the opposite page. Tt is there shown with a seam down the back, finished with slit, a moderately closeiting waist, a fish out: under the ‘arms, and ample spring over the hips, and in erder to give tho system for this briefly, we 1 Ure system. capitulate the en SPECIAL FEATURI May either be made up whole, or with a threeseamed The degree of closeness at the waist varies a&- cording to fashion, At the presnt time they are maie to fit moderately tight. ‘They are generally made fairly easy in the shoulders and eye, and finished with » meat collar and turn, Flap poskote are generally placed on the hips; the ticket-pocket is either put in the right forepart with » flap, or in the left facing, ‘The breast pocket ean either be put inside or out; if it is pub oubit is usual to pub it on the left. forepart with the welt slanting down in front. The fronts are ‘generally more ‘or less rounded away. The number of buttons varies from three to four, the top button bemg about one inch, above the level of the hip-pocket, and the ticke:-pocket on # level With the waist-seam, the breast pocket) being ‘on a level with the depth of seye. back + THE SYSTEM Draw line ©, 30 (to 8 onerthird depth of sey: 0 to 8 the depth of seve © to If the natural waist length. © to 89 the full length of back, prs din. for sears. Square lines ab rigit angles to O, 3, 9, 17 and 80. O to 2p is one-twelfth of breast, le $f Come up from 24, fin, and draw the back neck to {. Measure off the width of back about 2 inches below point 3, tho mensure taken on the eustomer plus bin. for Gueve out fin. to shoulder-point, and draw shonlderseain from ] to {, ay illustrated. From {, measure across (0 20}, the half-hest. measure plus 2 to’ inches; a good average quantity. will be 2 or 2) inches: From 20% to E the across chest measure. B to C the front shoulder measure, less the width of Donele nec 20} to C, ] more than Eto € E to B overshoutder measure tees A to om the beck, wn to 9 i THE CUTTER’S PRACTIOAL GUIDE C to B onefowth of an inch less than the width of ack shoulder, | 0 $ Shape the shoulier as illustrated by B, E, D, Hollow the back Jin. at 17, Make width at back of waist one Take out 1 inch at F, and fin. at G, Let the sixth of breast which és about 3 inches from the sideseam. forepart overlap the back at bottom of sideseam 1 inch. © to 2f one-twelfth of breast less in, “Mezsure up the waist to measure, plus 24 inches, and so find point 20} ‘Add on Lin, of button-stand. Drop botzom of forepart Yin. below line drawn from 30 toT, and complete draft as shown, TRE SLEEVE, © to 5 is the same distance as from J to E of the jncket. (0 to T, LinchTO THE CUTTING AND MAKING OF LOUNGES. a ‘Marke thesleevepitehes as follows: The forearm pitch should be fin. above the lovel of the seye; the hindarm, stould be one-ninth of tho half breast below point Measure the distanco betwen these two pitches, ‘Make 1 to 9 agroc with this, to 4h, half of 1 to 9. Measure off the lengtir of sleave to elbow and cult; make the width of the elbow one-fourth of the bresst, plus din ‘Mako the width of eaff onesixth of the breast, plus din. Square the bottom of cuiT at right angles to the hind arm, ‘The forearm is hollowed 1 inch ab 1A. For the underside, measure round the seye between the two piteies, and place this-distance across from as shown by 8. THE COLLAR. Point Ais fin. above the top button-tole. Mark off from A fin, less than the width of stand, Draw line through A through thess points to B, By D, tho depth of fall desired D to C the dopth of stand. G to B the depth of fall. Curve D, F, Gas shown, Form collarend at Hf, and finish as" illustrated. ANOTHER STYLE. By way of variety ve give another style of whole back Lounge, in which the forepart is cut without a fish ‘under the arm, ani, comequently, the waist suppression is slightly increased, and Jin, is taken out between back and foropart at top of sideseam, On this forepart we have illustrated a low-rolling turn, ‘which requires a lowering of the gorge in front, so as to obtain « step in keoping with the lapel ‘THE SYSTEM. Draw lines at right angles to O. O to 8 onethird depth of seye, © to 9 the dopth of seve. ©.to 17 the natural waist ingth. O to 293 the full length desired, plus fin. for seams, Draw lines at right angles to 3, 9, 17, and 93. Fron O mark in}, ard from 29}, 4, and draw cemie ‘of back straight. © to 24 onotwafth breast less tin. 24 to f, three quarters inch, and curve up irk neck. 2 inches below 3 mcamure off ths wideh of back plus jn. Curve out from 2 to 4, and draw shoulders-am, 9 to 204 half chest. plus 24 BO} to 123 the across chest inches. ‘From 12} sweep by front sr measure less O, 2 Adi Jin, to this quantity, and eweep (rom 204, This fas C, which is the neck-point From 12} to B is the overshoulder measure, los $ to A of the back, C to B fin. less than width of back shoulder, 9 to THE SIDESEAM. Make width of back at waist one-sixth breast; take out 1 inch, Square down from waistline, and curve up te back seye as shown, "Taxe out 4in. at top, and let bottom overlap fin. ‘Measure up waist to measure plus 24in, © to D onetwelith breast, less $in. D to E to taste, say 4 or 5 inches. ‘Add on fin. button-stand. Dmp fronts fin. below line, and complete front to taste. Position and size of pocket is marked on forepat.FASHIONABLE REEFER. SPECIAL F ATURES. The most noticeable feature of the Recier is the double-broaated front, aud although it is possible to make singlebreasted refers, yet the tam is generally kept for the D.B, threeseamer The amount of overlap varies, and this governs the stance at which the buttons stand back from the edge. ‘The Reofor is worn as a dressy garment in the West End, but more often it is the working gurment of naval men, and is known as the Pea Jacket, or Monkey Jacket. Asa gencral rule itis made rath shorter than the Lounge. It may be cither made with a scam down the back, or cut: on the crease, It is often made up with slits at the bottom of the sidezeams, bat this is a matter of taste The shoulder is cut rather straighter than tho Lounge, for the reason that it is more difficult to worl it wp over the breast, as the front edgo is from 24 to 34 inches in front of the breast, Line, ‘THE SYSTEM, Draw line 0, 29. © to.3 onsthird depth of sye, 0 t09 depth of seye, ral waist longth, © to 29 full length plus: seams, Draw lines at right angles to 0, 3, 9, 17, © to 24 onetwelfth breast less Jin About 2 inches below point 3, mark off the width of Wack plus two seams, Hollow back Jin, at 17, 9 to 207 half chest, plus 2 to $ inches 20) to 12} the width across chest, From 12) ewoop by front shoulder measure less 0 to J of back Add fin, to. this, and sweep from 204, and where these segments intersect locates. nock-point. Swéep Tr6m 12] by the ovor-shoulder measure lew 4 to A of the back, Make C to B rather less than J to } of back. THE SEAMS, Make the width of back about one-sixth breast; take Out I inch between back and forcpart, and let forepart ‘overlap 1 inch ab the bottom, Take out fin. fish under tho arm, Make up waist to mossure, plus 14 € to Donetwelfth breast. less din, D to the same amount or to taste ‘Draw breast line from D through 209, Add on from 24 to 34 foF overlap, and chape Tapel to taste Drop the front in, below line, aud complete draft as per diagram, aches, ‘THE OUDTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE HINT ON MAKING, ‘Tho makingap of Roofers is, to all intonte and pur poses, the samo as Lounges, ‘The buttons are placed as far behind the breast line as the eyo af the hote is in front of it ‘The pockets are placed rather further back than in the Lounge (see diagram). ‘The front edge of the flap is finished square to match the front. For naval garments the euffs ate often trimmed with gold lace, and the lapel made so that it buttons up to the throat in neat style. FASHIONABLE ~95- BEEFER, | i DRESS JACKETS, ‘The Drews Jacket partakes of the charactor of the Dress Cont as far as the lapels and fronts are concerned, but for the rest part they do sot differ much from the oninsry Lounge They are, howover, Kopt free from All those extremes of style which are occasionally in troduced, The back is ent of moderato length, my about 20 inches, and may either have a threescam or a_ whole back. The pockets on the hips are wvlts, but, oceasionally a jeating and semetimes a fap is employed. Thoy are nearly always mado of black coating of rather light weight, but are sometimes made of velvet or velveteen, generally putin with is preferred as neater,THE THREE STYLES Tihustrated are the most popular. Diagram 1 shows the pointed lapel, to produce which the gorge is lowored about 1 or 14in. in front, and from 1 to Lin. added beyond the breast line at top to noth- ing at the waist. The top of the lapel is made to slope slightly upwards, and the lapel is faced with silk to the edge, A flower-hole is worked in the right lapel, and the turn is made to roll to. the waist Diagram 2 illustrates tie roll-collar front, and to pro- Auise this the gorge is lowered ta within about 4 or 5 inches of the front, where it is desired for the lapel to tum; w little higher or lower is not of much import- ance, asit-simply means the collar-seam is placed a. little higher or lower. ‘Tho outline from E to G mut be in harmony with the shape of the roll, In this style the sie is carried to the edge of the roll all round the neck A flowerhole is worked in the left roll. DIAGRAM 3 the right angle step-roll, which finds much far vour, The gorge is lowered 1} ir 2 inches at E, and about Jin. is added beyond the breast line at Band F to nothing at G. The collar is adjusted to this with a ight anglo step, and the whole ix kept ax meat as pos sible a Tn addition to these styles there are some made with D.B. fronts for wear in the United States, but these are not worn in Great: Britain, 10 THE CUTTING AND MAKING OF LOUNG 29 HINT ON MAKING, ‘Tho making-up of a Dress Jacket should receive both care and altention, for, being a dress garment, the finish of the fronte must be of that neat and tasteful character which is invariably associated with dress garments. The sills used for the facings is generally of bright finish, and the edges are vither plain or stiteled right on the edge. ANOTHER STYLE OF NORFOLK JACKET SPECIAL FEATURES, Cut easy-itting in chest, waist and hips Usually, but not always, finished with pleats, either formed in the garment, of laid on. Thvarinbly made with a belt round the waist, Often finisled with @ yoke back and front. Usually has large patch-pockets at hips, and vertical pocket under the ploat at broust ‘Tho eck is generally finished with a neab oollar and Panteen collar, and made to fasten up to the throat Sometimes thoy are eut with separate skirts below waist-belt, s9 as to provide more spring over the hips, For our diagram we have selected the simplest form, though from what we have suid it will be gathered that the style shown in the diagram is the most popular. THE SYSTEM. Draw line 0, 29. © to 3 onethird depth of seye. © to 9 depth of seve. O to 17 natural waist length. © fo 29 fall length plue seams. ‘Draw lines at right angles to O. 3, 9, 17, 29. © to 2} one-twelith breast less din, 24 to J, throequarters inch, and draw back-neck. About 2 inches below 3 measure off the width of back plus seam, and curve out to j, as shown, Connect | to }, and se gol shoulder-sam. 9 to 20} the hulfchest plus 25 inches 20} to 12) the acros chest measure, From 12} sweep by front shoulder measura, loss O 24 of bacle neck, Add fin. to this, and sweep from 20}, and where th segments intersect each other locates the neck-point C: Sweep from 12) by the overshoulder mexsure, less 9 A of the back. Make C B tin. less than } to } of the back. diagram, - ‘THE SEAMS Shape “Make the width of hack at waist about one-sixth breast or a triflo wider, continuing it down to the bottom straight, and up into the seye, as shown. ‘Tako ont 1 inch between back and forepart, and Tet. forepart. overlap back about 1 inch, ‘Measure up waist, to measure plus 3 inches to D onetwelfth breast less fin. D to E about the same.