Popular Gentleman System - Cutting and Designing of Mens Garments (1917) PDF

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Popular Gentleman
System
For
Cutting and Designing

Of
MEN'S Garments
PUBLISHED BY
Popular Gentleman Service Company
LOCK BOX 6345
W. PHILADELPHIA, PA.
<\
K
C()]p.vrinht 1017 by
ropular (it'iitlemiui Servire Company
m 29 1917
/ I y ^ ©CIA4R720S
LIMITED EDITION.
This edition is limited to one thousand complete copies
of which this is No. . This copyright volume is
for the exclusive use of
of
POPULAR GENTLEMAN SERVICE COMPANY.
1917 Edition "A"

DIAGRAM SHOWING HOW TO TAKE A
DEPRESSION MEASURE
Diagram No I
Normal TiGune
The yard stick must always be straight up and down and not lean in or
out at the top or bottom. Use the yardstick as shown in Diagrams 1-2 and 3.
Diagram 1 shows how to hold the yard stick and square.
Measure in for the waist depression from the edge of the yard stick to
the hollow part of the waist which is 2 inches for a normal man, but can be
more or less.
WAIST
Depression
Seat
Depression
DIAGRAM No. ^
Stooping Form and
Sway to Front
Diagram No. 2 shows the stooping and sway to the front form. The
distance from the yard stick to the hollow part of waist is 2V2 inches, but
can be more or less.
The distance from the yard stick in to the seat is li/o inches, but can
be more or less.
When drafting trousers for this form deduct the seat depression from
the waist depression before drafting and the difference gives you the cor-
rect waist depression for the trousers.
Bl_AOE
Otr>RCSSION
Waist
DtPRtSSlOM
Diagram No. 3
Diagram No. 3 shows the erect form with large seat. When drafting
a coat for a form of this kind, deduct the blade depression from the waist
depression and draft the pattern. After the pattern is drafted add to the
&eat measure the amount you reduced the waist depression.
When drafting trousers draft them the full waist depression measure
always.
HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE
Diagram No. I Diagram No.3
Place the edge of the square on the mark

Take the breast and waist measure and
at the back of arm and squareacross as
then place the square up under the arm as
shown. Mark in the center of the back at
shown, and mark in the front and back of the
the top of the square for the scye depth as
arm at the top of square as Diagram No. 1. shown in Diagram No. 3.
Diagram Ho.Z
Diagram Na4-
Place the square over the top of the should- Take the scye depth and waist length, also
er and mark in back of the square in front the length of seat and the full length as
of arm scye as Diagram No. 2. shown in Diagram No. 4.
Diagram No.5 D/AGRAM No. 6
Take the over shoulder measure from the

Take the strap measure from the center
scye depth mark in the center of the back,
seam in the back of vest at the neck down across the shoulder and down to the mark
to the mark in front of arm as shown on Dia- in front of the arm as shown on Diagram
gram No. 5. No. 6.
Diagram No. 7
Take the blade measure from the mark in front of arm, around to the
seam in the center of the back as shown on Diagram No. 7.

HOW TO ENLARGE MEASURE
To get an easy sack coat you should increase the breast and waist mea-
sure one or more sizes or as much as is wanted for ease.
None of the other measures should be changed if they have been taken
correctly, namely: the strap measure, the overshoulder measure or scye
depth.
In cutting overcoats take the measures of the vest, and enlarge the
breast and waist measures 3 inches for regular overcoat, or as much as is
wanted for size.
Do not enlarge the overshoulder, strap measure or scye depth as you
add to the above measures by dropping the arm scye which is shown on
the drafts.
If the above is followed out closely you will get good results.
10
HOW TO OPEN VEST FOR A STOUT MAN AS
SHOWN ON DIAGRAM
The solid black lines show the vest after it is opened.

The broken lines show the vest before it is opened.
The solid black space from the side at the point D across to the front
at point C shows how the vest is filled in.
Draw a line back from the pocket to A and cut the pattern from A in to
B and thru to C.
Open the pattern from A to D 14 of aii i'lch for each inch stout.
Paste a piece of paper over the opening from the front point at C back
to point D and draw a line from D to B.
Take out the space between A and D and into B.
This leaves the solid black space filled in as diagram, which gives the
length over the stomach for the stout.
This finishes the diagram.
11
DIAGRAM SHOWING NORFOLK OVER REGULAR
SACK COAT
A is located at the front sleeve notch.
Square across from A to get B.
Cut the pattern thru from A to B and add V2 inch for seams.
C is located at the top of the side seam in the arm scye.
Square across from C to get D.

Open the pattern thru from C to D and allow y.> inch for seams.
A to E is 3 inches.
E to E-1 is 2 inches.
Draw a line from E down to get E-2.
E-2 to E-3 is 2 inches. This forms the front strap.
I-ay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the front strap.
F is located at the normal waist line.
F-1 is located at the normal waist line.
F-2 is located at the normal waist line.
Draw a line from F-2 to the front of coat above the bottom button 1 inch
to get F-3.
Go down from F, F-1, F-2 and F-3 for the width of belt 2 inches and shape
as diagram.
G is half way between F and F-1.
G to G-1 is 1 inch.
G to G-2 is 1 inch.
Square up from G-1 to locate G-4.
Square up from G-2 to locate G-3.
Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the back strap.
Open the pattern thru at the side seams and lay the side seams of fore part
and back together.
Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt.
13
HOW TO OPEN A COAT FOR A STOUT MAN
AS SHOWN ON DIAGRAM
(tpen the pattern at the under arm seam from the arm hole down to the
pocket at H. Cut thru pattern from H to H-1 which is 1/2 inch back
from the front edge of pocket.

Open the pattern from H-1 to D-6.
Open the pattern as diagram at H Vi inch for each inch stout or as much as
you want to give for ease.

Cut a strip of paper the shape of the opening from H to H-1 and D-6.
Paste the strip of paper over the opening from D-G to H-1 and H.
The solid black shown on diagram is how the coat is to be filled in.
Cut from H in to H-1 and take out the white space from top of pocket at H
and into H-1.
Take off the side body at H as nnich as it laps.
This finishes the diagram for the stout.
14
DIAGRAM OF SOLID PINCH BACK
A and B is the normal waist line.
Come up from A and B 2 inches to get C and D.

Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt as at A, B, C
and D.
E and F is half way between A and C and B and D.
Draw a line from E to F.
Add 1/2 inch at F to get F-1.
Add 14 inch to E to get E-1.
ohape the back at diagram.
E-1 to X is 2 inches.
Square up and down from X.
X to X-1 is 21/2 inches.
Square up and down from X-1.
Pinch in as much at X as you add at F as diagram.
Pinch in as much at X-1 as you add at E as diagram.
15
DIAGRAM OF HALF PINCH BACK
DIAGRAM 1.
Diagram 1 shows the normal waist line at A and B.

Go up from A and B 2 inches to get C and D.
Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt as at A, B, C
andD.
E and F is half way between A and C and B and D.
Draw a line from E to F.
16
DIAGRAM 2.
Cut the pattern thru on line E and F as diagram 2.
Add 1/2 inch at F to get F-1.
Add 14 inch at E to E-1.
Shape the back as diagram at E-1 and F-1.

X is 2 inches in from E-1.
Square up from X.
X to X-1 is 21/2 inches.
Square up from X-1.

Pinch in as much at X as you add at F as diagram.
Pinch in as much at X-1 as you add at E as diagram.
If where the back is split thru is to be seamed up allow 1/2 inch for the
seams.
17
:
REGULAR TROUSERS
The measurements are as follows

Outside seam 41 in. Waist 31 in. Knee ._ 19 in.
Inseam 32 in. Seat 37in. Bottom 16 in.
Depression 2 inches.
Square down and out from 1.
1 to 3 is the rise 9 inches.

1 to 6 is the outside seam measure 41 inches.
! is half way between 3 and 6.
o is 1Y> inch up from 4.
2 is Vs seat up from 3.
Square out from 2, 3, 5 and G.
3 to 7 is 1/2 seat.
7 to 8 is 1-32 seat.
18
8
9 to 10 is 1-32 seat.
11 is half way between 9 and 3.
Square up from 11 to get point 12.
12 to 13 is l^ waist plus l^ inch.
12 to 14 is 14. waist plus 14 inch.
Draw from 13 to 7, this gives you point
a line 15.
Draw a line from 13 to 8.
L'raw a line from 14 to 2.
Square down from 16 to get point 17.
17 to 18 is 1/0 inch.
18 to 19 is y-> bottom or 8 inches.
Draw a line from 20 up thru the knee to 11, this locates point 21, at the
knee.
21 to 22 is 1,4 knee measure.
21 to 23 is 14 knee measure.
Draw a line from 18 to 22 and from 19 to 23 and up to point 2.
Shape side seam from 9 to 22, and from 10 to 22.
Shape from 13 down to 10.
Take out dress from 13 to 15 and down thru 9 to 10.
Shape side seam from 14 to 2.
This finishes the fore part.
BACK PART.
Square out from points 1, 13, 2, 3, 10, 22 and 18.
23 to 24 is Y> inch.
22 to 25 is 1/2 inch.
1 to 26 is 1/2 inch.
19 to 27 is 1/2 inch.
10 to 28 is i/s seat.
Shape from 28 to 25.
Square up from point 8 to get point 29.
29 to 30 is the depression measure 2 inches.
Place long arm of square on point 15 and 30 so that the short arm of square
rests on line 1 and apply 14 of the waist measure plus 2 inches for
seams and make up, which in this case is 9% inches on short arm of
square, so that it falls on hne 1 as diagram, and gives you point 31.
Now draw a line from 31 across to corner of square and down to 30 and
15 and shape the back seam as diagram dropping 14 inch below point
28.
31 to 32 is 3 inches.
32 to 33 is 1 inch.
Take out V at 32 and 33.
2 to 34 is l'^/4, inches.
Shape from 31 to 34 and from 34 to 24.
This finishes the draft.
19
—
STOUT MEN'S TROUSERS
The measurements are :
Outside seam 42 in. Seat 44 in. Depression measure

„, . ,, ,
... at waist 2 in.
Inseam 31 m. Abdomen 44 m.
^^^^ gi in.
Waist 42 in. Rise 11 in. Bottom 17 in.
20
1
Square down and out from 1.
1 to 3 is the rise 11 inches.

1 to 6 is the outside seam measure 42 inches.
i is half way between 3 and 6.
5 is IV2 inches up from 4.
2 is Vr seat up from 3.
Square out from 2, 3, 5 and 6.
8 to 7 is 1/2 seat.
9 to 10 is 1-32 seat.
Square up from 11 to get point 12.

12 to 13 is 14 waist plus 14 of an inch.
12 to 14 is 14 waist plus i/i. of an inch.
12 to F is 1-6 abdomen measure.
Square out from F.
F to F-1 is 14 abdomen measure.
F-2 is 14 of an inch from F-1.
F-3 is 1-32 waist up from 13.
Draw a line from 14 to F-3.
Draw a line from F-3 to F-1 and from F-3 to F-2.
10 to 28 is Vb seat.
Shape from 28 to 25.
Square up from point 8 to get point 29.
29 to 30 is incline measure at waist 2 inches.
Place long arm of square on points 15 and 30 so that the short arm of
square rests on line squared back from 1 —now apply 14 of the waist
measure plus 2 inches for seams and make up, which in this case is
121/2 inches on short arm of square so that it falls on line squared back
from 1 as diagram and gives you point 31, now draw a line from 31
down to 30 and 15.
across to corner of square and
Now shape the back seam as diagram dropping 1/4 of an inch below point 28.
"1 to 32 is 3 inches.
32 to 33 is 1 inch.
Take out V at 32 and 33.
2 to 34 is 134 inches.
Shape from 31 to 34 and from 34 to 24.
21
—
GOLF TROUSERS
The measurements are as follows :
Outside length 30 in. Knee length 23 in. Knee ISi/i in-
Inseam length 21 in.

Small of knee Small of knee _14 in.
length 25 in.
Waist 32 in.
Calf length __._ 29 in.
Calf 15 in.
Seat 38 in. Rise 9 in. Depression 2 in.
Square down and out from 1. A to A-1 is 1/2 seat plus i/j inch.
1 to A is the rise 9 inches. A-1 to A-2 is 1-12 seat plus 1/2 inch.
1 to B is the knee length. Scjuare up and down from A-1 to get points
1 to C is the small of knee length plus 1 inch. 2 and B-1.
1 to D is the calf length jjIus 1 inch. Point 15 is '

<! seat up from A-1.
Square out from A, B- C, and D. A-3 is h;df way between A and A-2.
M. _s
.$=1
Square up from A-3 to locate 3. A-5 is Ys seat from A-2.

4 is 14 waist plus l/i inch from 3. A-6 is 2 inches from A-4.
5 is i/i waist plus Vi inch from 3.
C-6 is 1/2 inch from C-2.
Draw a line from 5 to A-1.
C-7 is 1/2 inch from C-1.
A to A-4 is 1 inch. Draw a line from A-5 to C-6.
Draw a line from A-4 to 4. Draw a line from A-6 to C-7.
the knee measure.

C-4 to E is 1/2 inch.
B-1 to B-2 is 1/2
C-5 to E-1 is 1/2 inch.
B-2 to B-3 is 1 inch.
D-2 to E-2 is 1/2 inch.
Square down from B-3 to get C-1. D-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch.
B-1 to B-4 is 1 inch.

Draw a line from E to E-4.
Draw a line from E-1 to E-2.
Square down from B-4 to get C-2.
Place your square on points 15 and 20 so that
Draw a line from A-2 to C-2.
the short arm of square rests on line
Draw a line from A-4 to C-1. squared out from 1, and apply your
Form 4 small pleats with the amount C-1 to waist measure plus 2 inches for the
C-2 is larger than small of knee measure seams and V on line 1 to get point X.
as diagram.
Draw a line from 15 up thru 20 to top of
C-3 is half way between C-1 and C-2. square to get X-1.
C-3 to C-4 is 14. small of knee plus 14 inch.
X-2 is 1/2 inch above X.
C-3 to C-5 is 14 small of knee plus 14 inch.
Draw a line from X-2 to X-1.
Square down from C-3 to locate D-1.
Draw a line from X-2 to A-6.
D-1 to D-2 is 1/4 calf measure plus i/j.
of an
inch. Shape from X-2 thru A-6 and down to C-7.
D-1 to D-3 is 14 calf measure plus 14 of an Shape the back seam from X-1 thru 15 and
inch. out to A-5.
Draw a line from C-5 to D-2 and C-4 to D-3. Take out 1 inch V as diagram.
Shape from 5 to A-2. Take out the same amount in pleats on back
Shape from 4 thru A-4 and down to C-1.
part at bottom as on forepart.
Shape from D-2 to D-3 extending 1/2 inch
Cut off the cuff and allow 14 inch for seam
below D-1 as diagram.
on each the top of cuff and bottom of
pants.
BACK PART.
This same draft will cut knickerbocker trous-
Square out from 1, A-2 and A-4. ers and instead of using the cuff at the
bottom use a I14 inch band.
20 is 2 inches in from 5 or the depression
measure. This finishes the draft.
RIDING BREECHES
Outside se'm I'n'h 87 in. Knee . ISi/o in. Knee length ^ __ 23 in.
Inseam length __ 28 in. Small of knee _. 14 in. Small of knee I'n'h 25 in.
Waist 32 in. Calf 15 in. Calf length 29 in.
Seat 38 in. Ankle 9 in. Rise 9 in.
Depression measure at waist 2 inches.
'Mi
Square down and out from 1. BACK PART.
1 to 2 is the rise 9 inches. Square out from points 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 10.
1 to 3 is the knee length 23 inches. Square up from point 8 to get point 20.
1 to 4 is the small of knee length 25 inches. 20 to 21 is the incline measure at waist 2
1 to 5 is the calf length 29 inches. inches.
1 to 6 is the outside seam length 37 inches. Draw a line from 9 through 21 and extend
2 to 6 is the inseam measure 28 inches. the line 5 inches always above point 21,
Square out from 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6.
which gives you point 22.
2 to 7 is 1/4 seat. 22 to 23 is i/i- w-aist plus 2 inches.
7 to 8 is % of an inch. 2-1 to 2-2 is two inches.
8 to 9 is 1-12 seat. Draw a line from 2-2 through 23 to find point
9 to 10 is % of an inch. 24.
11 is half way between 9 and 2. 2-2 to 24 is the same distance as from 2-1
Square up from 11 to get point 12. to 14.
12 to 13 is 14 waist plus Vx. of an inch. Draw a line from 22 to 24 and take out a %
12 to 14 is 14 waist plus 1/1 of an inch. inch V as diagram.
Draw a line from 8 to 13. 10 to 25 is i/b seat.
8 to 15 is seat. % B-2 to B-3 is 1/2 of an inch.

Square down from 8 to get point 16. C-2 to C-3 is l/j of an inch.
D to D-2 is 1 inch.
18 is 1 inch from 17.
Draw a Hne from 18 to point 11, this gives
Shape back part from line 22 to 21, down to
you points A, B, C, as diagram. 25, shape from 25 to B-3, C-3 and down
A to A-1 is Vs knee. to D-2.

A to A-2 is Vi knee. From B-2 to B-1 and from B-3 to B-4 is the
B to B-1 is Vr small of knee.
small of knee measure plus 1 inch.
B to B-2 is 14 small of knee.
From C-2 to C-1 and from C-3 to C-4 is the
C to C-1 is 1/8 calf.
C to C-2 is 1/4. calf. calf measure plus 1 inch.
18 to D is 1-3 inch the size of the ankle or 3 From D to D-1 and from D-2 to D-3 is the
inches. ankle measure plus 3i/j inches.
D to D-1 is half of the ankle measure or 41/2

Take out l-^-'i. of an inch V in center of back
inches.
part as diagram.
2 to 2-1 IV2 inches.
is
Split the back part through at point 3 and
Draw a Kne from 14 to 2-1 and from 2-1 to
B-1 down through C-1 and D-1, this gives you A-2 take 1/0 of an inch out above A and
the ease at A-1 for the bend at knee. i/j of an inch out below A, making 1 inch
Draw a line from 9 to A-2. in all —take the inch out as diagram.
Now shape from 13 through 1.5 to 10.
When pattern is cut out add to each the
Shape from 10 to B-2 extending 14 of an
above and bottom part where inch is
inch out at point A-2.
taken out 14 of an inch for seams.
Shape from A-2 through B-2 and C-2 down to
D as diagram. Shape side seam from 24 to 2-2 and down to
Shape outside seam as diagram from 14 to B-4 and C-4 and through to D-3.
2-1 to B-1, C-1 and down to D-1. This finishes the draft.
25
—
WR'
REGULAR VEST
/^S X
Breast 36 in. Scye depth __ 8' 4 in. Side length ___ 23i/i in.
Waist 32 in. Waist length 17 in. Opening 11 in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full lengths _ 271/0 in. Blade III/4, in.
Overshouldcr 1()"' | in. Strap 11 '-j in.
26
Square down and out from A. 5 is 14 breast less 14 inch from A-1.
A to A-A is Va breast plus
"
i
of an inch. 6 is % of an inch below 5.
X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-8.

A to B is the same as A to A-A.
A-A to C is i/_» breast.
E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-4.
C D is 21/2 inches.
to
A to D gives the proportions for the scye
Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6.
depth. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5.
A-A to D gives the proportions for the strap X-4 is 1 inch below D-3.
measure. Draw a line from X-4 to X-3.
A to E is the waist length 17 inches. Shape top of back from A to 2.
Square out from D and E. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1.
Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru
E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches.
D-3.
Draw a line from El to B to locate point D-1.
Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down.
D-1 to D-2 inch.
is 1
A-3 is 1
H breast plus % of an inch up from
D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 111 j. inches.
A-1.
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. 10 is 2 inches below E-1.
D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch.
D-5 is 11/2 inches in front of D-4. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch.
Square up from D-5. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1.
A to 1 is Vs breast plus •;4 of an inch. A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch.
Square up from 1. A-3 to A-5 is 1/2 inch.
D-D to X is i/a breast plus -Vj, of an inch. A-5 to A-6 is 1 inch.
Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch.
1. Draw a line from A-1 to M.

D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from Shape from A-5 to A-4 and thru to M.
D-5 to D-2 or 3 5-16 inches. Shape from M down thru D-8 and E-4 to G-1
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. as diagram.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Shape stand and from A-6 down to M. collar
Draw a line from 2 to 3. Lay piece of paper under pattern and trace
D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 off the collar.
or 18 inches. Shape back from A down to 10 as diagram.
D-8 is 114 inches out from D-7. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap-
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. ply the amount at D-3 measure on line
E-2 to E-3 is one half the waist measure or drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you
16 inches. the strap measure plus •J4 of an inch for
E-4 is 11/4 inch out from E-3. make up.
Square down from E-3. Apply overshoulder measure plus -jt of an
Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. inch for make up on broken lines.
4 is 1/4 breast from 2. This finishes the draft.
-(i3=j
27
—
3"
STOUT VEST
AS X
Breast 44 in. Rcye depth __ 10 in. Side length -__ 24 in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length --281,4 in. Blade 131/4. in.
Overshoulder 19-' t in. Strap 1^\A in.
28
Square down and out from A. 4 is 14 breast from 2.
A to A-A is i/« breast plus Vj. of an inch. 5 is 1/4 breast less 14 inch from A-1.
A to B is the same as A to A-A. 6 is •%, of an inch below 5.

A-A to C is 1/2 breast.
X-2 is i/j breast plus 1 inch from D-1.
C to D is 21/2 inches.
A to E is the waist length 17 inches.
E-6 is 14 waist plus 1 inch from E-1.
Square out from D and E. Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6.
E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5.
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate point D-1 X-4 is 1 inch below D-3.
D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from X-4 to X-3.

Shape top of back from A to 2.
D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 13 14 inches.
Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1.
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D.
Shape point of arm scye from 6 down thru
D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3.
D-3.
D-5 is 11/2 inch in from D-4.
Square up from D-5.
A-3 is ' breast plus 'j^ of an inch up from
A to 1 is Yn breast plus % of an inch. A-1.
)i
Square up from 1.
10 is 2 inches below E-1.
D-D to X is 1/8 breast plus -^ 1. of an inch. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch.
Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch.
1. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1.
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch.
D-5 to D-2 or 3 9-16 inches. A-3 to A-5 is 1/2 inch.
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. A-5 to A-6 is 1 inch.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch.

Draw a line from A-1 to M.
Shape from A-5 to A-4 and thru to M.
D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2
or 22 inches.
Shape from M down thru D-8 and E-4 to G-1
as diagram.
D-8 is II/4, inch out from D-7.
Shape stand at A-6.
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches less i/t of an inch for
Shape back from A down to 10 as diagram.
each waist is stout, in this case the waist
is 4 inches stout, and the distance from
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap-
E-1 to E-2 is 1 inch.
ply the amount at D-3, measure on line
drawn from D-3 to A-1. this gives you
E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 22
the strap measure plus -V^ of an inch for
inches.
make up.
E-4 is 1 14 inch out from E-3.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus ^ij.
of an
Square down from E-3. inch on broken lines.
Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. This finishes the draft.
29
:
DOUBLE BREASTED VEST WITH COLLAR
Breast 36 in Scye depth _ _ 8V2 in. Side length -_-23i4 in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length -.27 1/2 in. Blade II14 in.
Overshoulder 1(5 •' | in. Strap 11 ' .j in.
30
-SL^
Square down and out from A. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5.

A to A-A is 1/8 breast plus -ji of an inch. X-4 is 1 inch below D-3.
A to B is the same as from A to A-A. Draw a line from X-4 to X-3.
Shape top of back from A to 2.
Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1.
Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru
A-A to D is the strap measure IIV2 inches.
D-3.
A to D is the scye depth 8i/> inches.
%
of an inch up from
A-3 is a breast plus
1
Square out from D and E. A-1.

E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. 10 is 2 inches below E-1.
Draw a line from E-1 to B which locates A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch.
point D-1. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch.
D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1.
D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 111 4. inches. A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch.
A-3 to A-5 is V-i inch.
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D.
A-5 to A-6 is 1 inch.
D-4 is halfway between D-1 and D-3.
A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch.
D-5 is 11/2 inch in front of D-4. Line D-8 and E-4 is center vest front.
Square up from D-5. Draw a hne from A-1 thru M to front of vest.
A to 1 is 1/8 breast plus •;4. of an inch. The top button is 6 inches down from M and
Square up from 1. they are 3 inches apart.
D-D to X is breast plus % of an inch.
i/jj The top button is 21/4 inches back from cen-
Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above ter vest line.
1. The center button IV2 inch back from cen-
is
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of the back ter vest line, draw aline from the top
from D-5 to D-2 or 3 5-16 inches. button thru the center button to get the
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. space of the bottom button extend out
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. in front of center vest line %
of an inch
Draw a line from 2 to 3. more than you come back from the cen-
D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 ter vest line for the buttons and shape
or 18 inches. the front from A-5 thru A-4 and M and
D-8 is 1/0 inch out from D-7. on thru to G-1.
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. Shape stand and collar from A-6 down to
E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16 front of vest.
inches. Shape the back from A down to 10 as dia-
E-4 is 1/2 inch out from E-3. gram.
Square down from E-3. Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and
Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. trace off the collar.
4 is I/4. breast from 2. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap-
5 is 14 breast less 14. inch from A-1. ply the amount at D-3, measure on line
6 is % of an inch below 5. drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the
X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 14. inch in from D-8. strap measure plus -j^ of an inch for
X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch in from D-1. make up.
E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 14 inch in from E-4. Apply overshoulder measure plus of an %
E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch in from E-1. inch for make up on broken lines.
Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. This finishes the draft.
-d^
31
CLERICAL VEST
The measurements are as follows :-
Breast 36 in. Scye depth ^_ 8i/o in. Side length ___ 231/. in.
Waist 32 in. Waist lenpfth 17 in. Blade llVi in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length 27 in. Strap 111/2 in.
Over shoulder 1(5 "•
1. in. Collar 141/^ in.

:
Square down and out from A. Shape top of back from A to 2.

A to A-A is i/h breast plus •'
^ of an inch. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1.
A to B is the same as from A to A-A. Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru
D-3.
A-3 is Vij breast plus 1 inch up from A-1.
10 is 2 inches below E-1.
Square out from D and E.
A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch.
E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches.
A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch.
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate D-1.
Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1.
D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch.
Shape from A down to 10.
D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure llVi. inches.
Shape neck from A-1 to the front as diagram.
Square up from D-3 to get point D-D.
Apply collar size from A to 2 and from A-1
D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3.
down plus %. of an inch to A-4.
D-5 is 11/0 inch in from D-4.
A-5 is 1 inch from A-4.
Square up from D-5.
Shape from A-5 thru D-8 and E-4 down to
A to 1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch.
G as diagram.
Square up from 1.
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap-
D-D to X is 8 breast plus 1
1 inch.
ply this amount at D-3 measure on line
Draw a line from X to A to
;
get point 2 above
drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you
1.
the strap measure plus 1 inch.
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from
Apply the over shoulder measure on broken
D-5 to D-2 or 314 inches.
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1.
lines plus %
of an inch.
Diagram of collar is shown on vest front.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3.
D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2

THE COLLAR.
or 18 inches. Measure the full size of neck hole, in this
D-8 is 114 inch out from D-7. case it is 8 inches and deduct
of an -Ji
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. inch for seams which leaves 714 collar
E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16 size and draft as follows
inches. Draw a straight line from A.
E-4 is 114 inch out from E-3. A to B is 714 inches.
Square down from E-3. Square down from A half the collar size
Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. which is 3-% inches to C.
A-2 is Vs breast plus 1/2 inch down from A-1. Square over from C and down from B to get
Square out from A-2. D.
4 is 14 breast from 2. D E is collar width 1
to inch. ' 1.
5 is 1/4 breast less 14 inch from A-1. A to F is collar width I14 inch.
6 is % of an inch below 5. Square out from F as diagram.
X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-8. Place your collar size on D and line F to get
X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-1. G.
E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-4. Draw a line from D to G.
E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-1. Square up from G the width of collar to get
Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. point H.
X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. Draw a line from H to E and shape as dia-
X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. gram.
Draw a line from X-4 to X-3. This finishes the draft.
Mti.
33
—
FULL DRESS VEST
Breast 38 in. Scye depth __ Syis in. Blade 11% in.
Waist 34 in. Waist length 17 in. Side length _ _ 24 in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length __28 in. Opening 18 in.
Over shoulder 17 y^ in- Strap 12 in.
34
M
Square down and out from A. 6 is % of an inch below 5.
A to A-A is Vs breast plus % of an inch. X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch in from D-8.
A to B is the same as from A to A-A. X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch in from D-1.
A-A to C is 1/2 breast. E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch in from E-4.
C to D is 21/0 inches. E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch in from E-1.
A-A to D gives the proportions for the strap Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6.
measure. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5.

A to D gives the proportions for the scye X-4 is 1 inch below D-3.
depth. Draw a line from X-4 to X-3.
A to E is the waist length 17 inches. Shape top of back from A to 2.

Square out from D and E. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1.
E E-1
to is the waist depression 2 inches. Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru
Draw a line from E-1 to B which locates D-3.
point D-1. Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down.
D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. A-3 is i/a breast plus of an inch up from %
D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 11%. inches. A-1.
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. 10 is 2 inches below E-1.
D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch.
D-5 is IV2 inch in front of D-4. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch.
Square up from D-5. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1.

A to 1 is 1/3 breast plus % of an inch. A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch.
Square up from 1. A-3 to A-5 is 1 inch.
D-D to X is % breast plus '-''/i.
of an inch. A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch.
Draw a line from X to A to locate point 2 Square back from M 1-6 breast to locate M-1.
above 1. Draw from A-4 to M-1.
a line
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down to M as
D-5 to D-2 or 3 7-16 inches. diagram.
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Shape stand and collar from A-5 down to M
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. as diagram.
Draw a line from 2 to 3. Shape from M
to E-4 and down to G-1.
D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 Shape the back from A down to 10.
or 19 inches. Lay piece of paper under pattern and trace
D-8 is 114 inch out from D-7. off the collar.
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap-
E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 17 ply the amount at D-3 and measure on
inches. line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives
E-4 is 114 inch out from E-3. you the strap measure plus of an inch %
Square down from E-3. for make up.
Draw a from E-4 up thru D-8.
line Aiply over shoulder measure on broken lines
4 is 14 breast from 2. plus -^^
I
of an inch for make up.
5 is 1/4 breast less 14 inch from A-1. This finishes the draft.
IIl
35
REGULAR SLEEVE FOR SACK
COAT AND OVERCOAT
36
: •
"W
The measurements are as follows : —

Arm scye 18 inches. Inseam length 18 inches.
Draft as follows
Square down and back from A.
A to B is 14 the arm scye.
B to C is 1 inch.
B to D is the inseam length.
E is half way between B and D.
Square out and back from B, E and D.
B to B-1 is 114, inch.
E to E-1 is 34 of an inch.
D to D-1V/i inch.
is
Draw a line from B-1 to E-1 and from E-1

to D-1 and shape.
C to A-1 is 1/2 the arm scye.
Draw a line from C to A-1.
X is half way between C and A-1.
Square up 14 the arm scye from X to locate
X-1.
Draw a line from X-1 to C and from X-1 to
A-1.
Square down from A-1 to locate B-2 and E-2.
Square up from line B-1 and B-2 thru X to
locate X-2 and B-3.
Shape from A-1 to X-2 and down thru C to
B-1.
Draw a line from A-2 to B-3.
B-4 114 inch back from B.
is
D-2 is 114 inch back from D.

Draw a line from B-4 to D-2 to locate E-3.
E-3 to E-4 is 34 of an inch.
Shape from B-4 thru E-4 to D-2.
Shape from A-2 down thru B-3 to B-4.
E-2 to E-5 is %
of an inch.
D to D-3 is the cuff size or 13 on the halves.
Square down I14 inch from D-3 to get D-4.
Draw a line from D-4 to D and shape.
Draw a line from A-1 to E-5 and from E-5 to
D-4 and shape.
Draw a line from A-2 to E-5 and shape.
37
-m/r
The measurements are as follows: A-3 to A-4 is 1/2 inch.

Apply the full shoulder width measure plus
Arm scye 22 inches.
1 inch from X-7 to X-3 and take out half
Inseam 18 inches. the amount on each side of X-1 that the
Front shoulder height 10l^ in. distance from X-7 to X-3 is larger than
the full shoulder width measure with
Front shoulder width 5% in.
the inch added which locates points X-8
Full shoulder width 7l/_> in.
and X-9.
Back shoulder width 614. in. C-1 to C-3 is the same as from C-2 to C-1.
Back shoulder height 714. in. Draw a line from X-3 to C-3.
Under arm scye measure of sleeve 10 in. C to C-4 is 11/2 inch.
Square down and in from A. Square down from C-4 to locate D-2.
A to B is the front shoulder height. Shape from C-4 to D-2 as diagram.
B to C is 1 inch. D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches.
C to D is the inseam length. Draw a line from D-3 to D.
E is half way between C and D. D to D-4 is the width of cuff or 71/2 inches.
F is 14 the arm scye measure up from C. Shape from D-4 to D-2.
Square back from F, C, E and D. Draw a line from E-1 to D-4 and shape.
Square out from C, E and D. D-1 to D-5 is the same as from D-1 to D less
B to F-1 is 1/2 the arm scye measure. 11/2 inch.
Draw a line from B to F-1. Draw a line from D-5 to D-3.

B-1 is half way between B and F-1. D-3 to D-6 is the same as from D-3 to D-4.
Square up 14 the arm scye measure from Draw a line from E-1 to D-6 and shape.
B-1 on line B and F-1 to locate X. Shape from A-1 to X-7 and down thru B to
Draw a line from X to F-1. C-4.
Square up and down from F-1 to locate C-1, Shape from A-3 to X-3 and down as diagram.
E-1 and D-1. Apply the back shoulder height measure
Square up from line C and C-1 thru B-1 to
from A-3 down to locate 0.
locate C-2 and X-1.
Apply the under arm scye measure plus 2
inches from B to C-4 and place this
Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2
amount on O and measure down to lo-
and X-3. cate C-5.
F-1 to A-A is the back shoulder height. Shape from C-5 to D-5.
Square in from A-A. D-7 is half way between D and D-4.
X-1 to X-4 is the front shoulder width. E-2 is half way between E and E-1.
X-1 to X-5 is the back shoulder width. Shape from A-2 down thru X-9, keep 14 inch
Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-1 to line A to back of points C, E-2 and D-7.
locate A-1. Shape from A-4 down thru X-8, keep 14 inch
in front of points C-2, E-2 and D-7. The
1/2 inch is for seams and must be allow-
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate X-6.
ed after cutting out the pattern, if seam
X-6 to X-7 is 1/2 inch.
is wanted in the back of sleeve make
Sweep from X-5 pivoting on X-1 back to line the changes as per broken lines.
A-A to locate A-3. This finishes the draft.
jm:
39
ta?"
SOLID RAGLAN SLEEVE
•-4- OS
40
— —
IK
The measurements are as follows: D-2 to D-5 is the same as from D to D-2 less
Arm scye 22 inches. 11/2 inch.
Inseam length 18 inches. Draw a line from D-5 to D-3.
Front shoulder width 5% inches. D-3 to D-6 is the same as from D-3 to D-4.
Under arm scye measure 10 inches. Draw a line from E-1 to D-6 and shape.
Square down from A. Square up from line B and B-2 thru X to lo-
A to B is i/j.
the arm scye measure. cate X-2 and B-3.
C is 1 inch up from B.
B-2 to B-4 is the same as from B-2 to B-3.
B to D is the inseam length.
Square up 1 inch from A-1 to locate A-2 for
E is half way between B and D.

the back sleeve notch.
Square back from A, B, E and D.
Square back li/> inch from X-2 to locate X-3.
Square out from B and D.
X-2 to X-4 is the front shoulder width
B to B-1 is 11/2 inch.
less 1/2 inch.
Square down from B-1 to locate D-1.
Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-3 to the front.
Shape from B-1 to D-1.
X-4 to X-5 is 1/2 inch.
C to A-1 is 1/0 the arm scye.
X-5 to X-6 is 1 inch.
Draw a line from C to A-1.
Draw a line from X-5 to C.
X is half way between C and A-1.
Shape from X-6 down to C and B-1.
Square up from X on line C and A-1 Vi the
arm scye to get X-1.
Draw a line from B-4 to A-2.
Shape from X-5 to A-2 and down as diagram.
Square down from A-1 to locate B-2, E-1 and
Apply the under arm scye measure plus 3
D-2.
inches from C to B-1 and A-2 down to
D-3 is 2 inches below D-2.
Draw a line from D-3 to D. B-5.
D to D-4 is the width of cuff or 7y-> inches. Shape from B-5 to D-6.
Shape from D-4 to D-1. Shape from D-5 to D-6.
Draw a line from E-1 to D-4 and shape. This finishes the draft.
41
—
BALMACANN SLEEVE
The meusurements are as follows:
Arm scye 22 inches. Front shoulder width 5'"'

i
inches.
Inseam 18 inches. Back shoulder height 7' |, inches.
Front shoulder heij^ht 101 i.

inches. Back shoulder width 6V! inches.
Front under arm scj'e length 5 inches. Back under arm scye length 9' o inches.
:
Full shoulder width 7V1> inches. X-1 to A-1 is the front shoulder width.
Draft as follows X-1 to A-2 is the back shoulder width.
Square down and in from A. Sweep from A-1 to line A, pivoting on X-1 to
A to B is the front shoulder height. locate A-3.
B to C is 1 inch. Draw a line from A-3 to B to locate X-4.
C to D is 11/2 inch. X-4 to X-5 is 1/2 inch.
C to E is the inseam length. Shape from A-3 down thru X-5, B and thru
F is way between E and C.
half to D-1.
G is 14. the arm scye measure up from C. B to D-3 is the front under arm scye length
Square back from G, C, D, F and E. plus 1/2 inch.
B to G-1 is 1/0 the arm scye measure. Draw a line from D-3 to E-4.
Draw a line from B to G-1. A-3 to A-4 is 1 inch.
B-1 is half way between B and G-1. Sweep from A-2 pivoting on X-1 to line A-A
Square up 14 the arm scye measure from B-1 to locate A-5.
on line B and G-1 to locate X. A-5 to A-6 is 1/2 inch.
Draw from X to G-1.
a line Draw a line from X-2 to D-2.
Square up and down from G-1 to locate C-1, Shape from A-5 down thru X-2 to line D-2.
F-1 and E-1.
Apply the back shoulder height from A-5
Square out from D and E.
down to locate 0.
E to E-2 is the cuff size 16 inches on the
Apply the back under arm scye length from
halves.
down to D-4 plus II/2 inch.
E-3 is half way between E and E-2.
Draw a line from D-4 to E-6.
E to E-4 same as from E to E-3.
is the
Measure the distance from X-5 to X-2 which
Square up from E-4 to locate D-1.
in this case is 9 inches, add 1 inch to the
E-1 to E-5 is the same as from E-1 to E-2.
full shoulder width measure, which
E-5 to E-6 is the same as from E-2 to E-3.
makes it 8V2 inches, apply the 8V2 inch-
Square up from E-6 to locate D-2.
es from X-5 to X-2 and take the V2 inch
Square down IV2 inch from E-2 to get 1.
out at X-1 as diagram 14 inch on each
Draw a line from 1 to E and shape from 1 to
E dropping at E-4 as diagram. side of X-1, which gives you points X-6
Draw a line from F-1 to 1 and shape. and X-7.

Square down IV2 inch from E-5 to get 2.
Shape from A-4 down thru X-7 and keep V2
inch back of C-2, F-2 and E-3.
Draw a line from F-1 to 2 and shape.
Drop below E-6 the same as below E-4 and Shape from A-6 down thru X-6 and keep 1/2
inch in front of C-2, F-2 and E-3.

shape to 2.
F-2 way between F and F-1.

is half
Cut the pattern thru from A-6 down to the
Square up from line C and C-1 thru B-1 to

cuff and paste a piece of paper on the
locate X-1 and C-2. fore part of the sleeve, then lay the
Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2 pattern together the same as before it
and X-3. was cut and trace off the fore part from
G-1 to A-A is the back shoulder height. line A-4 down.
Square in from A-A. This finishes the draft.
.iH.
43
—
REGULAR SACK COAT
The measurements are as follows:
Breast 36 in. Scye depth _ 8 1/2 in. Blade lll^ in.
Waist 32 in. Waist length 17 in. Overshoulder -16% in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length ^_30 in. Strap 111/2 in.
Seat 37 in.
Square down and out from A. The above from A-A to D gives the propor-
tions for the strap measure.
A to A-A is i/s breast plus % of an inch.
A to B is the same as from A to A-A. A to D is the proportions for the scye depth.
A-A to C is 1/2 breast. A to E is the waist length.

C to D is 21/0 inches always. A to F is 6 inches.
"-*'"
44
.
A to G is the full length. E-6 to E-7 is 134 inches.

Square out from D, E, F and G. Draw from E-7 up through D-11.
a line
E to E-1 is the waist depression. Square down from E-7 to locate G-3.
E-2 isway between E and E-1.
half G-3 to G-4 is 3 inches.
Square down from E-2 to locate F-1 and G-1. G-3 to G-5 is 3 inches.
Draw a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1 F-2 to F-3 is the same as from F to F-1 plus
D-2 is 114 inch in from D-1. 114. inches.
A to 1 is i/s breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from E-3 through F-3.
Square up from 1. Shape the side seam as diagram.
D-2 to D-.3 is the blade measure. E-3 to G-6 is the same as from E-4 to G-2.
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. Draw a line from G-6 to G-4.
D-D to X is i/y breast plus 1 inch. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus %
of an inch.
Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above Square out from A-2 to locate A-3.
1. Go down 91/2 inches from A-3 to get bottom
D-4 is half way between D-3 and D-1. of roll.
D-5 is li/> inch in from D-4. A-4 114 inch in front of A-1.
is
Square up and down from D-.5 to locate points Draw a line from the bottom of roll up
E-3, F-2, G-2. through A-4 and from A-1 back on the
D-6 is % of an inch below D-5. opposite side of square.
D-7 is % of an inch below D-3. Shape from A-1 to A-3.
Draw a line from D-7 to D-6. A-1 to 7 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/0
D-8 is 1 inch up from D-7 for front sleeve inch.

notch. 8 is 1/2 inch below 7.
D-9 is 1/2the width of back from D-5 to D-2 Shape from 8 to A-1.
in front of D-3. Shape from 8 through D-8 down.
Square up from D-9 to locate A-1. Shape from 6 down.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate point 3. The arm scye measure is 18 14 inches.
Draw a line from 2 through 3 e.xtending I/2 Come up 14 the arm scye from D-6 to get
inch out from 3 to get point 4. point X-X for the back sleeve notch.
5 is 1-12 breast up from D-6. A-1 to A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus 14
Square out in front of 5, % of an inch to lo- inch.
cate 6. A-6 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line at
E-4 the same distance from E-3 as from
is lapel.
E-1 to E-2. Drop your collar %
of an inch below A-6
Draw a line from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4. as diagram and shape from A-1 down.
Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Square up from A-5 and shape the collar
Shape from A to 2 and from 4 to 14 inch in and lapel.
front of 5 as diagram. Shape from bottom of lapel down through
Shape from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4, F-2 E-7 and G-5.
and G-2 as diagram. Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch
D-10 is one half the breast measure out from on broken lines.
D-2. Apply the strap measure by measuring the
D-11 is 214 inches out from D-10. amount from A to 2 and placing the
E-1 to E-5 is 2 inches half the amount that amount on D-3 and measure up to A-1
waist is smaller than the breast. plus 1 inch.
E-5 to E-6 is half the waist measure. This finishes the draft.
45
:
THREE BUTTON D. B. SACK COAT
Breast 38 in. Scye depth _. 8"h in. Blade 11%. in.
Waist 34 in. Waist length 17 in. Overshoulder -IT'^ in.
Waist depression 2 in. FuU length --301/. in. Strap 12 in.
Seat 39 in.
4G
Square down and out from A. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2
A to B is i/s breast plus of an inch. % inch.
A to C is the scye depth. 8 is 1/2 iiich below 5.
A to D is the waist length. \

Shape from 8 to A-1.
D to E is 6 inches. Shape from 8 through G-2 and down.
A to F is the full length. Shape from 7 down.
Square out from C, D, E and F. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. C-7 to C-8 is 414 inches.
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure.
Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. D-5 to D-6 is 414 inches.
C-1 to C-2 is 114. inch. Draw a line from D-6 up through C-8.
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus ^^ of an inch.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. Square out from A-2.
X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch up from X Shape the neck from A-1 to the front.
Draw a line from X-1 to A. D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2.
1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch in from A. Draw a line from i/4 inch back of 7 to D-7.
Square up from 1 to locate 2. Draw a line from D-7 to E-2.
C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. Shape from D-7 through E-2 to F-2.
C-5 is IV2 inch in from C-4. E-2 to E-3 is the same as E to E-1 plus 1V4
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, inch.
E-2 and F-2. Draw a line from D-3 through E-3 down.
G is ; 4. of an inch down from C-5. Shape the side seams.
G-1 is 3,4 of an inch down from C-3. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2.
Draw a line from G to G-1. Square down from D-5 to locate F-4.
F-5 is 3 inches in front of F-4.
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
Square down 2V2 inches from F-5 to locate
notch.
F-6.
C-6 isone half the width of back from C-5 to Draw a linefrom F-3 to F-6.
C-2 in front of C-3 in this case it is 3% Draw a line from D-6 to F-6.
inches. A-3 is114 inch in front of A-1.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. The roll is13 inches long or 13 inches be-
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. low line A-2.
Draw a line from 2 through 3 extending 1/2
Draw a line from A-3 to bottom of lapel.
A-4 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line.
inch out from 3 to get point 4.
Shape lapel and front as diagram.
6 is 1-12 breast up from G.
Apply over shoulder and strap measure the
Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. same as on the regular sack coat.
Shape from A to 2. The sleeve and collar are also the same.
Shape from 4 to i'4. inch in front of 6. This finishes the draft.
47
:
m
STOUT MANS SACK COAT
Breast 44 in. Scye depth 10 in. Blade 131/4. in.
Waist 44 in. Waist length __ 17 in. Overshoulder -19% in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length ___ 30 in. Strap 131/2 in-
Seat 45 in.
^
48
.
:ii:
Square down and out from A. Shape from 8 to A-1 as diagram.

A to B is Vs breast plus of an inch. •'
j.
Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down.
A to C is the scye depth. Shape from 7 down.
A to D is the waist length. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2.
D E is 6 inches.
to C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7.
A to F is the full length. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less Vi inch for each
inch the waist is larger than normal.
Square out from C, D, E and F.
D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-5 to D-6 is 1% inches.
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. A-1 to A-2 is ViJ breast plus of an inch. •'?
i.
Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates Square out from A-2.
point C-1. Draw a line from top of line C-5 to the front
C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. of line A-2 and shape the neck from A-1
to the front.
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure.
D-3 to D-7 is 1/2 the amount from D-1 to D-2.
Square up from C-3 to locate X.
Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7.
X-1 is 1 H breast plus 1 inch up from X. Draw a line from D-7 to E-2.
Draw a line from X-1 to A. Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2.
1 is % breast plus 1 inch in from A. E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus
Square up from A to get 2. 114 inch.
C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3.

Draw a line from D-3 thru E-3 down.
Shape the side seam.
C-5 is 11/2 inch in from C-4.
D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2.
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, Square down from D-6 to locate F-4.
E-2 and F-2. F-4 to F-5 is 3 inches.
G is -j^ of an inch down from C-5. F-4 to F-6 is 3 inches.
G-1 is •'
V of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from F-3 to F-5.
Draw a line from G to G-1. Shape from D-6 down thru F-6 as diagram.
inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1.
G-2 is 1
notch.
The length of lapel is 9 inches.
Draw a line from the bottom of lapel to A-3.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5
A-4 is half the length of lapel.
to C-2 in front of C-3 or 3% inches in
Lay your square on A-4 and A-3 and draw a
this case.
line back from A-3 on the two sides of
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1 the square.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. A-1 to A-5 is V2 inch more than from A to 2.
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and
out from 3 to get point 4. lapel.
6 is 1-12 breast up from G. The arm scye is 22 inches.
Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7.

G to XX is 14 the arm scye measure for back
sleeve notch.
Shape from A to 2.
Apply overshoulder measure plus 1 inch on
Shape from 4 to Vi inch in front of 6. broken lines.
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/0 Apply strap measure from A to 2 and from
inch. C-3 to A-1 plus 1 inch.
8 is 1/2 inch below 5 . This finishes the draft.
49
:
'.'T
SACK COAT FOR STOOPING AND SWAY

TO FRONT FORM

Breast 38 in. Scye depth __ 914 in. Blade 12ii in.
Waist 36 in. Wai.st length 17 in. Overshoulder .18 in.
Waist dep's'n 1-2 1/2 in. Full length __30 in. Strap 11''54 in.
Seat 40 in.
50
Square down and out from A. Shape from 3 to 14 inch in front of 6.
A to B is Vs breast plus % of an inch. A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 3 less 1/2
A to C is the scye depth. inch.
A to D is the waist length. 8 is 1/2 inch below 5.
D to E is 6 inches. Shape from 8 to A-2.

A to F is the full length. Shape from 8 through G-2 and down.
Square out from C, D, E and F.
Shape from 7 dowr.
C-7 is one half breast out from C-2.
D to D-1 is the waist depression.
C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7.
D-2 isway between D and D-1.
half D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less 1,4 inch for each
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. inch waist is larger than norma,l (\v
Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. 11/2 inches.
C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure.
C-2 to K is the normal blade measure for a

D-5 to D-6 is 1% inches.
Draw a line from D-6 up through C-8.
38 coat or 11% inches in this case.
Square down from D-6 to locate H.
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure 121/4. inches. H to H-1 is 3 inches.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. H to H-2 is 3 inches.
X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch up frum X. A-2 to A-3 is i/s breast plus %
of an inch.
Draw a line from X-1 to A. Square out from A-3.
inch in front of A.
Shape the neck from A-2 to the front.
1 is Vs breast plus 1
D-3 to D-7 is one half the amount from D-1
Square up from 1 to locate 2.
to D-2.
C-4 is half way between C-1 and K. Draw a line from l^ inch back of 7 to D-7.
C-5 is 11/2 inch plus the difference from K to Draw a line from D-7 to E-2.
C-3 in front of C-4. Shape from D-7 through E-2 to F-2.
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 to E-3 114 inch. You can see by the
is
E-2 and F-2. diagram of the stooping form and sway

to the front form that the yard stick
G is % of an inch below C-5. is 1 inch away from the seat, therefore
G-1 is of an inch below C-3.
you do not add the amount from E to E-1
-''/i.
Draw a line from G to G-1.

in with E-3.
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve Draw a line from D-3 through E-3 down.
notch. Shape the side seams.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2.
to C-2 in front of K or 3"'a inches in this Draw a line from F-3 to H-1.
case. A-4 is 11/4. inch in front of A-1.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. The lapel is 9 inches below line A-3 at top
Shape from A to 2. button.
Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the Draw a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel.
amount on C-3 and measure up the A-5 is 2 inches in front of the crease line.
amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch Shape lapel and front as diagram.
to locate A-2. The sleeve and collar are the same as the re-
Draw a line from A-2 to B to locate 3. gular sack coat.
Draw a line from 2 to 3. Take 1/2 inch out of the back as per broken
6 is 1-12 breast up from G. lines.

Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. This finishes the draft.
51
—
—as-
I
-^m
a.
SACK COAT FOR ERECT FORM WITH FULL CHEST,

SMALL WAIST AND BACK
Breast 38 in. Scye depth __ 8I/2 in. Blade ±^

111/4 in.
Waist 33 in. Waist length 17 in. Overshoulder -17 14 in.
Waist dep's'n 2i/o-l in. Full length __30 in. Strap 121/2 in.
Seat 39.
52
Square down and out from A. 6 is 1-12 breast up from G.
A to B is Vs breast plus % of an inch. Square out % of an inch from 6
to get 7.
A to C is the scye depth. Shape from 4 to 14 inch in front of 6.
A to D is the waist length. A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2
D to E is 6 inches. inch.
A to F is the full length. 8 is 1/2 inch below 5.
Square out from C, D, E and F. Shape from 8 to A-2.

D to D-1 is the waist depression 2V2 inches Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down.
less the 1 inch at the blade or IV2 inch Shape from 7 down.
depression. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2.
half C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches plus 14 inch for each
Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. inch that the waist is smaller than nor-
C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. mal or 2 i/t inches.
C-2 to K is the normal blade measure for a 38 D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure.
coat which is 11% inches. D-5 to D-6 is 1% inches.
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure 11^4 inches. Draw a from D-6 up thru C-8.
line
Square up from C-3 to locate X. Square down from D-6 to locate H.

X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch up from X. H to HI is 3 inches.
Draw a line from X-1 to A. H to H-2 is 3 inches.
1 is Va breast plus 1 inch in from A. A-2 to A-3 is Vh breast plus % of an inch.
Square out from A-3.
C-4 is half way between C-1 and K.
Shape the neck from A-2 to the front.
C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch for the regular coat,
but in this case deduct the difference
D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2.
from C-3 to K from the IV2 inch to get Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7.
point C-5. Draw a line from D-7 to E-2.
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2.
E-2 and F-2. E-2 to E-3 is 1 inch taken off the depression
G 34 of an inch below C-5.
is measure and the amount from E to E-1
G-1 is %
of an inch below C-3. plus 114 inch or 3 inches.
Draw a line from G to G-1. Draw a line from D-3 thru E-3 down.
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve Shape the side seam.
notch. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2.
C-6 one half the width of back from C-5

is Draw a line from F-3 to H-1.
to C-2 in front of K or SVa inches. A-4 is 114 inch in front of A-1.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. The below line A-3.
lapel is 10 inches
Shape from A to 2. Draw a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel.
Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the A-5 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line.
amount on C-3 and measure up the Shape lapel and front as diagram.
amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch The sleeve and collar are the same as for the
to locate A-2. Draw a line from A-2 regular sack coat.
to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 Apply over shoulder measure the same as
thru 3 extending 1/2 '"ch out from 3 to for regular sack coat.
get point 4. This finishes the draft.
-i?=H
53
—
MILITARY COAT
Breast 36 in. Scye depth __ S'/j in. Blade . llVi. in.

Waist 32 in. Waist length 17 in. Overshoulder -16'^'\. in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length __30 in. Strap . 111/2 in.
Seat 37. Collar size 14V2-
Sciuaredown and out from A. A to G is the full length.

A A-A is Vji breast plus
to of an inch.
-^
1
Square out from D, E, F and G.
A to B is the same as from A to A-A. E to E-1 is the waist depression.
E-2 half way between E and E-1.
is
Draw a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1.
C to D is 21/2 inches always.
G-1 is the same distance from G as E-2 is
The above from A-A to D gives you the pro- from E.
portions for the strap measure which is 111/. Draw a line from E-2 to G-1 and tind point
inches in this case. F-1 on line F.
I'rom A to D gives you the proportions for D-1 toD-2 114 inch.
is
the .scye depth, which in this case is D-2 to D-3 the blade measure.
is
8'/2 inches. Square up from D-3 to locate D-D.
A to E is the waist length 17 inches. The proportions for the blade measure is I/2
V is 6 1/2 inches below E. breast and 3I/2 inches from D-1 to D-3.
54
:
D-4 is half way between D-3 and D-1. Shape back of arm scye from 4 to 7 and from
D-5 is 11/2 inch in from D-4. 8 down thru D-9 to bottom.
Square up from D-5. A-1 to A-2 is i/f) breast plus 1/2 inch.
D-6 is % of an inch below D-5. Square out from A-2.

D-7 is % of an inch below D-3. D-11 to D-13 is li/t inch for center of front.
Draw a line from D-3 to D-7 and from D-5 to E-4 to E-9 is 114 inch for center of front.
D-6. Square down from E-9 to locate points F-6
Draw from D-6 to D-7.
a line and G-3.
D-8 is inch up from D-7 for front sleeve
1 Draw a line from E-9 thru D-13 and up.
notch. D-13 to D-14 is 1% inches for stand.
D-9 is one half breast out from D-1. E-9 to E-10 is 1% inches for stand.
D-10 is half way between D-1 and D-9. G-3 to G-4 is of an inch.
•?'!.
D-2 to D-11 is one half the breast measure. G-3 to G-5 is 21/4. inches.
E-1 to E-3 is 2 inches. F-6 to F-7 is 21/2 inches.
E-3 to E-4 is one half the waist measure. Measure off your seat plus li/> inch for ease
D-3 to D-12 is one half the width of back from F-7.
from D-5 to D-2 or 314, inches in this Draw a line from G-2 to G-5.
case. Draw a line from E-10 thru G-4 down.
Square up from D-12 to get A-1. Draw a line from E-10 up thru D-14.
A to 1 is Vf! breast plus 1 inch. Shape neck from A-1 to front of coat as dia-
Square up from 1. gram.
D-D to X is V« breast plus 1 inch. Measure your back from A to 2 and apply
Draw a line from X to A to locate point 2. this amount at A-1 and measure front of
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. neck from A-1 down half the collar size
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 14 inch plus 114 inch for seams and make up to
out from 3 to get point 4. get point A-3.
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less % A-4 is 1% inches from A-3.
of an inch. Shape your front as diagram.
6 inch below 5.
is 1/2 The overshoulder and strap measures are
Shape from 6 to A-1 as diagram. applied the same as for a regular sack
Shape from A to 2. coat.
7 is half way between 3 and D-6. THE COLLAR.
8 is %of an inch out from 7. Measure the full size of neck hole, which in
Square a line from D-9 down to bottom of this case 8 1/2 inches, and deduct
is of %
coat which locates point E-5 at waist and F-2 an inch for seams which gives you a
at hip. neck hole of 7'; j, inches and draft as
F-2 to F-3 is 11/2 inch. follows
E-5 to E-6 is 1 inch. Draw a straight line from A.
Shape from D-9 to E-5 thru F-3 and down. A to B is the collar size 7% inches.
Shape from D-9 to E-6 thru F-2 and down. Square down from A half the collar size or
E-7 is half way between E-6 and D. 3y}{inches to C.
Square down from E-7 to get point F-4 on Square out from C and down from B to get
line F. point D.
F-4 to F-5 is IV4 inch. D to E is the width of collar 1% inches.
E-8 is 1 inch in front of E-7. A to F is the width of collar 1% inches.
Shape from 7 thru D-10 and down to E-7. Square out from F as diagram.
Shape from 7 thru D-10 down thru E-8 and Place your collar size on point D and line F
F-5. to get point G.
Measure your back length from E-7 to bot- Square up from G the width of collar to get
tom and apply this measure at E-8 down H.
to get point G-2. Drav.- a line from H to E and shape the collar
Shape arm scye from 6 down thru D-8 to as diagram.
bottom as diagram. This finishes the draft.
55
REGULAR CHESTERFIELD OVER COAT WITH FLY FRONT
Breast 40 in. Scye depth ._ 914 in. Blade 12 1/4. in.
Waist :]() in. Waist length 17 '.j in. Overshoulder -18 '4. in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length -42 in. Strap 121/2 in.
56
Square down and out from A. Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down.
A to B is Vii breast plus •'
|. of an inch. Shape from 6 down.
A to C is the scye depth. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2.
A to D is the waist length. C-8 is 314 inches out from C-7.
D E is 6 inches.
to D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches.
A to F is the full length. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure.
Sciuare out from C, D, E and F. D-5 to D-6 is 314 inches.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8.
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-6 to locate H.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. H to H-1 is 2 inches.
Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. H to H-2 is 1 inch.
C-1 to C-2 is 11/4. inch. Draw a line from D-6 thru H-2.
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. A-1 to A-2 is Ij! breast plus Ji. of an inch.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. Square out from A-2.
X-1 is Vk breast plus 1 inch up from X. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front.
Draw a line from X-1 to A. D-3 to D-7 is half the amount from D-1 to
1 is Vf! breast measure plus 1 inch in from A. D-2.
Square up from 1 to locate 2. Draw a line from V\. inch back of 6 to D-7.
C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. Draw a line from D-7 to E-2.
C-5 is 11/2 inch from C-4. Shape from D-7 thru E-2 down as diagram.
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3. E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus
E-2 and F-2. 11/,, inch,
G is 1%. inch below C-5. Draw a line from D-7 thru E-3 down, and
G-1 1%. inch below C-3.

is
shape as diagram.
Draw a line from G to G-1. D-7 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2.
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve Draw a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape.
notch. A-3 is 114. inch in front of A-1.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 The roll is 10i/> inches below line A-2.
to C-2 in front of C-3. Draw a line from the bottom of roll thru A-3
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. up.
Shape from A to 2. A-4 is 2% inches in front of crease line.
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and A-5 is % of an inch below A-4.
apply the amount on C-3. Draw a line from A-1 back for collar stand
Measure up on the line drawn from C-3 to the same amount plus 1/2 inch as from A
A-1 your strap measure plus 1 inch. to 2 to get point A-6.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Square up from A-6 thru crease line.
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending of "''1
Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5.
an inch out from 3 to get point 4. Shape the balance of collar as diagram.
6 is -Vj. of an inch in front of C-5. Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch
Shape from 4 to V|. inch in front of C-5. on broken lines.
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less '/•; The arm scye measure is 21i/_> inches.
inch. Come up 14 the arm scye from G to locate the
8 is V2 inch below 5. back sleeve notch at X-X.
Shape from 8 to A-1. This finishes the draft.
57
—
DOUBLE BREASTED BOX BACK OVERCOAT WITH SHAWL

COLLAR
The measurements are as follo\vs :
Breast 40 in. Scye depth _. 914 in. Blade I2I4 in.

Waist 36 in. Waist length Aiy., in. Overshoulder -IS'/j. in.
\A'aist depression 2 in. Full length 45 in. Strap 121/2 in.
Seat 41 inches.
58
Square down and out from A. Shape from 8 to A-1.
A to B is '/!! breast plus -'Ki. of an inch. Shape from 8 thru G-2 down.
A to C is the scye depth. Shape from 7 down.
A to D is the waist length. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2.
D to E is 6 inches. C-8 is 4%. inches out from C-7.
A to F is the full length. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches.
Square out from C, D, E and F. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-5 to D-6 is 4% inches.
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8.
Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. Square down from D-6 to locate H.
C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. H to H-1 is 2 inches.
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. H to H-2 is 1 inch.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. Draw a line from D-6 thru H-2.
X-1 is Va breast plus 1 inch up from X. A-1 to A-2 is V)i breast plus % of an inch.
Draw a line from X-1 to A. Square out from A-2 to get A-4.
1 is Vi! breast phis 1 inch in from A. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front.
Square up from 1 to locate 2. E-2 toE-3 is 11/2 inch.
C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. E-3 to E-4 is 31/2 inches.
C-5 is IV2 inch from C-4. Draw a line from 14, inch back of 7 thru E-4
Square up and down from C-5 to locate E-2 down.
and F-2. Draw a line from 14. inch back of 7 thru E-3
G is 1% inch below C-5. dowh.
G-1 1% inch below C-3.
is Make the side seam of back the same length
Draw a line from G to G-1. as side seam of fore part to get F-3.
G-2 is inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
1
Draw a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as dia-
notch. gram.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1.
to C-2 in front of C-3. The roll is 14 inches below line A-2.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from bottom of roll thru A-3 up.
Shape from A to 2. A-5 is 1 inch below A-4.

Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- Draw a line from A-1 back for the collar
ply the amount on C-3, measure up on stand the same amount as from A to 2
the hne drawn from C-3 to A-1 your plus 1/2 inch to get A-6.
strap measure plus 1 inch. Square up 4 inches from A-6 on opposite side
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. of crease line to get A-7.
Draw a from 2 thru 3 extending
line of an •; |. Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5.
inch out from 3 to get point 4. Shape the collar as diagram.
6 is 1-16 breast up from G. Apply over shoulder measure as on our
Square out %
of an inch from 6 to locate 7. Chesterfield overcoat measure, the arm
Shape from 4 to l^ inch in front of 6. scye and locate sleeve notch the same.
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/-. The buttons are 6 inches from the edge when
inch. coat is finished and 6 inches apart.
8 is 1/2 inch below 5. This finishes the draft.
59
—
BALMACANN OVERCOAT WITH MILITARY COLLAR
Breast 40 in. Scye depth __ 91 |. in. Blade 121,4 in.

Waist 36 in. Waist length 17 in. Overshoulder -18 14 in-
Waist depression 2 in. Full length __38 in. Strap 121/2 in.
Seat 41. Collar size 15 14.
Square down and out from A. Square up from C-3 to locate X.
A to B is •/!{ breast plus "ji. of an inch X to X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch.
A to C is the scye depth. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
A to D is the waist length.
A to 1 is i/ji plus 1 inch.
D to E is 6 inches.
Shape from A to 2.
A to F is the full length.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1.
Square out from C, D, E and F. C-4 to C-5 is 1 1/0 inch.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. Square up from C-5.
D-2 half way between D and D-1.
is Square down from C-5 to locate E-1.
Draw a line from D-2 up to B to lorat ;'-!. Square down from C-3 to locate E-2.
C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. G is l-'i inches below C-5.
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. G-1 is P'l inches below C-3.
60
•
Draw a line from G to G-l. Draw a line from 2 to 5.

G-3 inches below G.
is 21/0 Square out to 4 from line 2 and 5 which gives
G-4 is 21/2 inches below G-l. you point 11.
Draw a line from G-3 to G-4. 11 to 12 is 1/2 inch.
G-5 is half way between G-3 and G-4. Shape from 2 thru 12 and down to 5.
G-6 is %
of an inch in front of G-5. Measure the arm scye which is 221/2 inches
G-7 is of an inch back from G-5.
i5^4.
and come up from G 14 the arm scye
Draw a line from G-6 down thru E-2 to lo- measure for the back sleeve notch to
cate F-1. point X-X and square back to get point
Draw a line from G-7 down thru El to lo- O.
cate F-2. Measure from A-5 to 8 for the front sleeve
U-6 IS one half the width of the back from height.
0-0 to C-Z ni iront of U-3. Measure from to 2 for the back sleeve
bquare up trom o-b to locate A-1. height.
i^raw a nne from A-i to H to locate 3. Measure from 8 to G-7 for the front under
Draw a line from z thru 3 extending i/o of arm length.
an inch out from 3 to get point 4. Measure from to G-6 for the back under
5 is i/i inch in from C-5. arm length.
Shape from 4 down thru 5. Measure the distance from 12 to 4 and from
A-1 to 6 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 10 to 7 for full shoulder width.
inch. Cut the pattern thru at G-6 and F-1 and
7 to 1/2 inch below 6. paste a piece of paper on the fore part,
Shape from 7 to A-1. then lay your pattern together the same
8 is 1 inch up from G-l. as before and trace off the amount from
Shape from 7 down thru 8. G-7 to F-2.
C-7 one half breast out from C-2.
is This finishes the draft.
C-7 to C-8 is 2 inches for a military collar or
3 inches for regular collar. THE MILITARY COLLAR.
D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches. Measure the neck from A to 2 and from A-1
D-3 to D-4 is one half the waist measure. to A-3 which in this case is 9 inches.
D-4 to D-5 is 2 inches for military collar or 3 Draft as follows : —
inches for regular collar. Square out and down from A.
Square down from D-5 to locate H. A to B is the collar size 9 inches.
H to H-1 is 2 inches. Square down from B.
H to H-2 is 1 inch. A to C is one half the collar size 4i/j inches
Draw a line from D-5 down thru H-2. and B to D is the same.
Draw a line from D-5 up thru C-8. Draw a line from C to D.
Shape from F to F-1. A to E is 11/2 inch.
Make the side seam of the forepart the same Square in from E.
as from G-6 down on back part, and D to G is the collar size 9 inches.
shape out to H-1. Draw a line from D to G and square up frojii

A-1 to A-2 is i/fj breast plus 1/2 inch. G to locate G-l.
Square out from A-2. Square up from D.
Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to D to F-1 is 11/2 inch.
the front. Draw a line from G-l to F-1.
Measure the distance from A to 2 and apply H is half way between D and G.
the amount at A-1 and measure down half Square up from H.
the neck size plus I14. inch to A-3. H to H-1 is 14 inch.
Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down the front. H-1 to H-2 is 11/2 inch.
Draw a line from 8 to G-7 and shape. Square up from G-l.
Draw a line from 5 to G-6 and shape. G-l to G-2 is 21/:. inches.
A-5 is 1/2 inch below A-1. H-2 to H-3 is 21/2 inches.
Draw a line from A-5 to 8. F-1 to F-2 is 21/2 inches.
Square back to 7 from line A-5 and 8 which Shape from G to H-1 and D.
gives you point 9. Shape from G-l to H-2 and F-1.
9 to 10 is 1/2 inch. Shape from G-2 to H-3 and F-2.
Shape from A-5 thru 10 down to 8. This finishes the draft.
61
RAGLAN SLEEVE OVERCOAT WITH CONVERTIBLE COLLAR
Breast 40 in. Scye depth _^ 9i/i. in. Blade I2I4. in.

Waist 36 in. Waist length 17 in. Overshoulder -ISi/t in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length -_40 in. Strap 121/2 in.
Seat 41. Collar size 15i/j.
Square down and out from A. r-2 is half way between D and D-1.
A to B is 'breast plus
!( of an inch.
'}/[. Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1.
A to C is the scye depth. C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch.
A to D is the waist length. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure.
D to E is 6 inches. Square up from C-3 to locate X.
A to F
the full length.
is X-1 is breast plus 1 inch up from X.
'
!i
Square out from C, D, E and F. Draw a line from X-1 to A.

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 1 is 1/h breast plus 1 inch in from A.
62
Square up from 1 to locate 2. Draw a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as
C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. diagram.
C-5 is IV2 inch from C-4 Measure from A to 2 and place the amount
on A-1 and measure half the collar size
Square up and down from C-5 to locate E-2
and F-2. plus 11/2 inch down to get point A-3.
A-5 is 5)j of an inch in front of A-1.
G is 1% inches below C-5.
is 1% inches below C-3.
A-6 is "'a of an inch in front of A-5.
G-1
Draw a line from G to G-1.
The roll is 11 inches down below line A-2.
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve

Draw a line from the bottom of the roll to
A-6.
notch.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 Draw a line from A-3 back thru A-5 as dia-
to C-2 in front of C-3.

gram.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Measure the width of back from A to 2 and
apply this amount plus V2 inch from A-1
Shape from A to 2.
back to A -7.
Apply the strap measure the same as foi
Drop 114 inch below A-7 and shape the col-
regular coat.
lar stand as diagram.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3.
Draw a line from A-7 to the crease line at the
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 inch
top of lapel.
out from 3 to get point 4.
Shape collar and lapel as diagram.
6 is 1-16 breast up from G.
K is V-i inch below A-1.
Square out % of an inch from 6 to locate 7.
Draw a line from K to G-2.
Shape from 4 to 14. inch in front of 6.
Square out from line drawn from K to G-2
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2 back to 8, which gives you K-1.
inch.
K-2 is 1/2 inch out from K-1.
8 is 1/2 inch below 5.
Shape from K to K-2 and G-2 as diagram.
Shape from 8 to A-1. Draw a line from 2 to C-5.
Shape from 8 thru G-2 down. Square out from line 2 and C-5 back to 4
Shape from 7 down. which gives you K-3.
C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. K-3 to K-4 is 1/2 inch.
Shape from 2 to K-4 and C-5 as diagram.
The arm scye measure is 22 inches.
D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches.
Measure up 14 the arm scye measure from G
D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. and square back to locate X-X.
D-5 to D-6 is 3 inches. Apply over shoulder measure the same as for
Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. regular coat.
Square down from D-6 to locate H. Measure the distance from K to K-2 and
H to H-1 is 2 inches. down to G-2 for the front shoulder
H to H-2 is 1 inch. height.
Draw a line from D-6 down thru H-2. Measure the distance from A-1 to 8 for the
A-1 to A-2 is 1 8 breast plus of an inch. % front shoulder width.
Square out from A-2. Measure from K-2 to 8 and from 4 to K-4 for
Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. theshoulder width.
full
E-2 to E-3 is 11/2 inch. Measure from 2 to X-X for the back shoulder
E-3 to E-4 is 31/2 inches. height.
Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-4 Measure from 2 to 4 for the back shoulder
down. width.
Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-3 Measure from X-X down to 6 and from 7
down. around to G-2 for the under arm scye
Make the side seam of back the same length length for sleeve.
as the side seam of fore part to get F-3. Ihis finishes the draft.
63
—
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT
The double breasted frock overcoat is cut

the same as a double breasted frock un-
dercoat, except that it is enlarged three
sizes, in this way the normal breast
measure is :!« and the coat is cut 39
l)reast.
The nicasurenients are as follows:
Breast 39 in. Scye dei)th 9 I-IG in. Blade _ 12 in.

Wai.st 35 in. Waist length _17 in. Overshoulder -17% in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length ___ 4.5 in. Strap 12' in
I
Seat 40. Collar size 16.
{i4
Square down and out from A. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4
A to B is i/s breast plus % of an inch. to locate E-3.
A to C is the scye depth. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1.
A to D is the waist length. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch.
D to E is 2 inches for fashionable waist E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch.

length. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2.
E to F is 6 inches. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down.
A to G is the full length. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5.
Square out from C, D, E, F and G. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square
half out from G-3.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. inch.
E-1 to E-2 is i/a breast. 6 is 1/2 inch below 5.
Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. Shape from 6 to A-1.
C-1 to C-2 is 11,4 inch. Shape from 6 down thru C-9.

Shape from H-1 down.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. C-12 is one half breast out from C-2.
X to X-1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. C-12 to C-13 is 114 inch.
Draw a line from X-1 to A. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches.
A to 1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure.
Square up from 1 to locate 2. D-8 to D-9 is 114 inch.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. D-9 to D-10 is 31/2 inches.
C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. Square down from D-10 to locate G-4.
Square up from C-5. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-t) Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4.
to C-2 in front of C-3. C-14 to C-15 is 41/2 inches.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus of an inch. %
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending- V2 of Square out from A-2.
an inch out from 3 to get point 4. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to
C-7 is 1% of an inch below C-5. the front.
C-8 is 1% of an inch below C-3. Measure half the neck size plus 11/4 inch
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve A-3.
notch. D-10 to F-3 is 4 inches.
H is half way between C-7 and 3. Draw a line from E-6 to F-3.
H-1 is %
of an inch out from H. F-4 is %
of an inch above F-3.
Shape from 4 to H. Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram.
C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. Square down from E-6 to get G-5.
C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast plus 1 inch.
Shape from H to C-11 and down to lC-2 to Draw a line from E-6 to G-6.
locate D-3. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for
Shape from A to 2. flare, this can be more or less for style.
D-3 to D-4 is the waist depression less V2 Shape from A-3 to C-13 and D-9 down.
inch. A-4 to A-5 is 31/2 inches.
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. Shape from A-5 down.
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. The over shoulder and strap measure are
Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. applied the same as for regular coat,
Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to also the sleeve.
D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. This finishes the draft.
65
:
TUXEDO COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR
Breast 36 in. Scye depth __ 81/^ in. Blade llVi. in.

Waist 32 in. Waist length _17 in. Overshoulder -16''4 in.
Seat 37.
66
Square down and out from A. Shape from 4 to 14 inch in front 6.
A to B is i/s breast plus % of an inch. Draw a line from i/i. inch back of 7 to D-4.
A to C is the scye depth. Shape from D-4 thru E-1 down.

A to D is the waist length. Shape from 14 inch back of 7 to D-3 and
D to E is 6 inches. down thru E-3.
A to F is the full length. D-3 to F-2 is the same as from D-4 to F-1.
Square out from C, D, E and F. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2
D to D-1 is the waist depression. inch.
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 8 is 1/2 inch below 5.
Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. Shape from 8 to A-1.
C-1 to C-2 is ll/i inch. Shape from 8 to G-2 and down.

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Shape from 7 down.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. D-1 to D-5 is 2 inches.
X to X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch. D-5 to D-6 is one half the waist measure.
Draw a line from X-1 to A. D-6 to D-7 is 11/2 inch.
A to 1 is i/s plus 1 inch. Square down from D-7 to locate H.

Square up from 1 to locate 2. H to H-1 is 2 inches.
Shape from A to 2. H to H-2 is 2 inches.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. Draw a line from F-2 to H-1.
C-5 is 11/2 inch in from C-4. Draw a line from D-7 thru H-2.
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, C-7 is one half breast out from C-2.
E-1 and F-1. C-7 to C-8 is 2 inches.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-2. Draw a line from D-7 up thru C-8.
i/j
D-3 to D-4 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. A-1 to A-2 is Vs breast plus inch.
E-1 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-2 plus Square out from A-2.
% of an inch. Shape from A-1 to the front.
Draw a line from D-3 down thru E-3. A-1 to A-3 is 114 inch.
Draw a line from D-4 down to E-1. Draw a line from D-7 up thru A-3.
C-6 is one half the width of the back from A-4 is 2V2 inches in front of crease line.
C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. A-1 is A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus 1/2
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. inch.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Square down I14 inch from A-5 to locate A-6.
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an A-7 is %
of an inch below A-4.
inch out from 3 to get point 4. Shape from A-6 to A-7 as diagram.
and
G is % of an inch below C-5. Square up from A-5 and shape the collar
Square down %. of an inch from C-3 to locate lapel down to D-7.
G-1. Shape from D-7 down.

Draw a line from G-1 to G. The overshoulder and strap measures are
G-2 is 1 inch above G-1 for front sleeve notch. applied the same as for sack coat, also
6 is 1-6 breast up from G. the sleeve.
Square out % of an inch from 6 to locate 7. This finishes the draft.
67
CUTAWAY FROCK
Breast 38 in. Seye depth __ 8i/> in. Blade lH/i. in.

Waist 32 in. Waist length 17 in. Overshoulder -IG'Vj. in.
Seat 39.
68
Square down and out from A. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6.
A to B is Vs breast plus % of an inch. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5.
A to C is the scye depth. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5
A to D is the waist length. down to locate E-5 and E-6.
D to E is IV2 inch for fashionable waist Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4
length. to locate E-3.
E to F is 6 inches. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1.

A to G
the full length.
is F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch.
Square out from C, D, E, F and G. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2.
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5.
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2.
E-1 to E-2 is i/s breast. Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square
Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. out.
C-1 to C-2 is IV4 inch. G-3 to G-4 is one half the waist measure or
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 16 inches.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure.
X to X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. C-12 to C-13 is 214 inches.
A to 1 is Vf! breast plus 1 inch. D-7 to -8 is one half the waist measure.
Square up from 1 to locate 2. D-8 to D-9 is 1% inches.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13.
C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. Draw a line from G-4 up to D-9.
Square up from C-5. F-3 is 3% inches below D-9.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 A-1 to A-5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2
to C-2 in front of C-3. inch.

Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 6 is V2 inch below 5.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Shape from 6 to A-1.

Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of Shape from 6 thru C-9 down.
an inch out from 3 to get point 4. Shape from H-1 down.
C-7 is %
of an inch below C-5. A-1 to A-2 is Vs breast plus %
of an inch.
C-8 is %
of an inch below C-3. Square out from A-2.
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front.
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1.
notch. The bottom of roll is 11 inches down from
H half way between C-7 and 3.
is A-2 line.
H-1 is %
of an inch out from H. Draw a line from bottom of roll to A-3.
Shape from 4 to H. A-4 is 21/1. inches in front of crease line.
C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. Shape lapel and front down as diagram.
C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2. Draw a line from F-3 to E-6.
Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to lo- F-4 is 1/2 inch below F-3.
cate D-3. Shape the skirt from E-4 to F-4.
Shape from 1 to 2. The over shoulder and strap measure is ap-
D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less 1/2 plied the same as for regular coat.
inch. The collar is also drafted the same.
D-4 to D-5 is i/i- waist. This finishes the draft.
69
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK
Breast 38 in. Scye depth __ Sys in. Blade 1134 in.

Waist 34 in. Waist length 17 in. Over shoulder nV-> in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length __42 in. Strap 12 'n.
Seat 39. Neck size 15.
70
Square
CLERICAL FROCK
The measurements are as follows :—
Breast 36 in. Scye depth __ 8V2 in. Blade II14 in.

Waist 32 in. Waist length 17 in. Over shoulder 16% in.
Waist depression 2 in. Full length __38 'n. Strap 111/2 in-
Seat 37. Collar size 141/..
Square down and out from A. E to F is 6 inches.

A to B is Va breast plus of -Yi. an inch. A to Gthe full length.
is
A to C is the scye depth. Square out from C, D, E, F and G.
A to D is the waist length. D to D-1 is the waist depression.
D to E is 11/2 inch for fashionable waist D-2 is half way between D and D-1.
length. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1.
iz
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. 6 is 1/2 inch below 5.
E-1 to E-2 is Vfi breast. Shape from 6 to A-1.

Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. Shape from 6 down thru C-9.
C-1 to C-2 is 11/4 inch. Shape from H-1 down.

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. C-12 is one half breast out from C-2.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. C-12 to C-13 is 11/4 inch.
X to X-1 is Va breast plus 1 inch. C-13 to C-1 4 is 11/2 inch.

A to 1 is Vg breast plus 1 inch. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure.
Square up from 1 to locate 2. D-8 to D-9 is 1V4 inch.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. D-9 to D-10 is 11/2 inch.
C-4 to C-5 is IV2 inch. Square down from D-10 to locate G-4.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 A-1 to A-2 is 1/8 breast plus 1/2 inch.
to C-2 in front of C-3. Square out from A-2.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. front.
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 of Measure half the collar size plus IVi inch
an inch out from 3 to get point 4. from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get
C-7 is %. of an inch below C-5. A-3.
C-8 is %
of an inch below C-3. A-3 to A-4 is 11/4. inch.
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. Shape from A-4 thru C-14 and D-10 down.
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve D-10 to F-3 is 3% inches.
notch. Draw a line from E-6 to F-3.
H is half way between
C-7 and 3. F-4 is %. of an inch above F-3.
H-1 is %
of an inch out from H. Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram.
Shape from 4 to H. Square down from E-6 to get G-5.
C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast.
C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2. Draw a line from E-6 to G-6.
Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 t.- hi- Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6
cate D-3. for flare, this can be more or less for
Shape from 1 to 2. style.
D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less Y2 The over shoulder and strap measures are
inch. applied the same as for regular coat and
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. also the sleeve.
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. THE COLLAR.
Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Measure your neck from A to 2 and from A-1
Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to to A-3 and draft.
D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-0. The neck size is 8I/2 inches.
Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 A to B is 8I/2 inches.
to locate E-3. A to C is half the neck size or 414 inches.
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. Square out from C and down from B to lo-
F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. cate D.
E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. D to E is 11/2 inch.
Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. A to F is 11/2 inch.

Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Square in from F.
Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. D G
to the neck size.
is
E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Square up l'/. inch from G to get H.
Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square Draw a line from to E. H
out from G-3. Shape from H to E and from G to D as dia-
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 gram.
inch. This finishes the draft.
73
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK FOR STOUT
Breast 44 in. Scye depth 10 in. Blade 131/4 in.

Waist 44 in. Waist length __ 17 in. Over shoulder 19% in.
Waist depression 2 in. FuU length 41 in. Strap 131/2 in.
Seat 45. Neck size 16i/>.
74
Square down and out from A. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1.
A to B is Vt! breast plus % of an inch. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch.
A to C is the scye depth. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch.
A to D is the waist length. Draw a line from E-4 thru F-2.

D to E is IV2 inch for fashionable waist Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down.
length. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5.
E to F is 6 inches. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2.
A to G is the full length. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square
Square out from C, D, E, F and G. out from G-3.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. inch.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1.
6 is 1/2 inch below 5.
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1.
E-1 to E-2 is Vs breast.
Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. Shape from 6 down thru C-9.
C-1 to C-2 is 11/4 inch. Shape from H-1 down.
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. C-12 is one half breast out from C-2.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. C-12 to C-18 is 114 inch.

X to X-1 is i/j! breast plus 1 inch. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches less I/4. inch for each
Draw a line from X-1 to A. inch waist is stout.
A to 1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure.
Square up from 1 to locate 2. D-8 to D-9 is 11/4, inch.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. D-9 to D-10 is 21/2 inches.
C-4 toC-5is 11/2 inch. Square down from D-10 to locate G-4.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4.
C-2 in front of C-3. C-14 to C-15 is 31/2 inches.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. A-1 to A-2 is Va breast plus of an inch.%
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an Square out from A-2.
inch out from 3 to get point 4. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the
C-7 is %
of an inch below C-5. front.
C-8 is %
of an inch below C-3. Measure half the neck size plus ly^, inch
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve A-3.
notch. D-10 to F-3 is 334 inches.
C-7 and 3. Draw a line from E-6 to F-3.
H-1 is %
of an inch out from H. F-4 is % of an inch above F-3.
Shape from 4 to H. Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram.
C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. Take out V2 inch V at 20 and 21 as diagram.
C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. Square down from E-6 to get G-5.
Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to lo- G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast.
cate D-3. Draw a hne from E-6 to G-6.
Shape from A to 2. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6
D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less V2 for flare, this can be more or less for
inch. style.
D-4 to D-5 is 1/4 waist. Shape from A-3 thru C-13 and D-9 down.
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. A-4 to A-5 is 3 inches.
Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from A-5 down.
Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to The over shoulder and strap measures are
D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. applied the same as for regular coat,
Shape from HI to C-11 and down thru D-4 also the sleeve.
to locate E--3. This finishes the draft.
75
—
FULL DRESS COAT
Breast 36 in. Scye depth 81/j in. Blade 11 1/4. in.
Waist 32 in. Waist length 17 in. Over shoulder 16'! (, in.
Seat 39 in.
Square down and out from A. A to D is the normal waist length.

A to B is Vn breast plus '% of an inch. D to E is 11/2 inch for fashionable waist
A to C is the scye depth. length.
7G
E to F is 6 inches. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1.
A to G is the full length. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch.
Square out from C, D, E, F and G. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2.
half Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5.
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. D-6 to D-7 is 14, breast.
E-1 to E-2 is i/a breast. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2.
Square down from E-2 to locate G-2.
Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square
C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch.
out.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. G-3 to G-4 is one half waist.
X to X-1 is 1 H breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from G-4 up thru D-7 2 inches to
Draw a line from X-1 to A. get D-8.
A to 1 is y^ breast plus 1 inch. C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure.
Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-12 to C-13 is 2% inches.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. Measure your waist from D-2 to D-3 and
C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. from D-4 to D-5 and from D-6 out to
Square up from C-5. D-9 half the waist measure.
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 D-9 to D-10 is 11/2 inch.
to C-2 in front of C-3. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-13.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. A-1 to A-2 is i/y breast plus 1/2 inch.
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Square out from A-2.
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to
out from 3 to get point 4. the front.
C-7 is 34 of an inch below C-5. A-1 to A-3 is 11/4 inch.
C-8 is 3,4 of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from A-3 to D-10.
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. A-4 is 1''4. inches in front of the crease line.
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve X-X is 1/4 breast plus V2 inch below the fash-
notch. ionable waist length.
C-7 and 3. Draw a line from X-X to E-6.
H-1 is %
of an inch out from H. X-X to is 1 inch.
Shape from 4 to H. Shape from D-7 down to G-2 as diagram.
C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. Take out gore at side body from D-8 down
C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. as diagram.
Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to Shape lapel from A-4 out and down thru
locate D-3. D-10 to 0.
Shape from A to 2. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2
D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure, less V2 inch.
inch. 6 is 1/2 inch below 5.
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. Shape from 6 to A-1.

Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Shape from 6 down thru C-9.
Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from H-1 down.
Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to Apply over shoulder and strap measure the
D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-G. same as for regular sack coat.
Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 Shape the skirt from E-4 to the front.
to locate E-3. This finishes the draft.
77
—
FULL DRESS CAPE GOWN
Breast 40 in. Scye depth -- 914 in. Blade I214 in.
Waist 36 in. Waist length 17 in. Over shoulder 1814 in-
Waist depression 2 in. Full length _36 in. Strap 121/2 in.
Collar size 16 inches.
IE
78
Square down and out from A. Square out from 5.
A to B is Va breast plus 34 of an inch. 5 to 6 is the same as from D-3 to D-6.
A to C is the scye depth. Draw a line from 6 thru 4.
A to D is the waist length. Square down from 6.
A to E is the full length. 6 to 7 is the same as from 5 to E plus IV2
Square out from C and D. inch.
D to D-1 is the waist depression. Square back li/j inch from 7 to get 12.
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 2 to 8 is i/fi breast plus ^^ of an inch.
Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. Square out from 8 to get 9.
C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. Shape from 9 to 2 and from A to 2.
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 2 to A-2 is 1/2 inch.
C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. Place the short arm of square on points C
and A-2 and square out from A-2.
C-5 is 11/2 inch in front of C-4.
C-6 is one halt the width of back from C-2 to A-2 to A-3 is the same as from A-2 to E.
C-5 in front of C-3. Shape from E to A-3.
C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. A-3 to A-4 is 10 inches.
A-3 to A-5 is 10 inches.
Square down from C-6 to get D-3.
D-4 is 2 inches in front of D-1.
A-2 to X-X is 1-3 breast.
D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure.
Draw a line from X-X to A-4 and from X-X
D-5 to D-6 is 3 inches.
to A-5.
A to 1 is i/a breast plus 1 inch.
Shape from A-2 thru X-X down as diagram
Square up from 1.
to A-4 and A-5.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1.
Measure half the collar size plus I14 inch
A-1 to X is Vs breast plus 1 inch.
from A to A-2 and around to get X-2.
Draw a line from X to A-1 to locate 2.
Draw a line from B thru 2 up.

X-2 to X-3 is 1% inches.
2 to 3 is the scye depth. Shape from X-3 down the front to 12.
Square out from 3. Cut the pattern out and take out the amount
3 to 4 is the same as from C-6 to C-8. from A-3 to A-4 and A-5 up to X-X.
2 to 5 is the waist length. This finishes the draft.
79
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Popular Gentleman System - Cutting and Designing of Mens Garments (1917) PDF

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Popular Gentleman System - Cutting and Designing of Mens Garments (1917) PDF

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,.

Cutting and Designing

ropular (it'iitlemiui Servire Company

of which this is No. . This copyright volume is

for the exclusive use of

POPULAR GENTLEMAN SERVICE COMPANY.

1917 Edition "A"

Diagram 1 shows how to hold the yard stick and square.

Diagram No. I Diagram No.3

Place the edge of the square on the mark

Take the over shoulder measure from the

seam in the center of the back as shown on Diagram No. 7.

wanted for size.

Do not enlarge the overshoulder, strap measure or scye depth as you

The solid black lines show the vest after it is opened.

Square across from A to get B.

Square across from C to get D.

Draw a line from E down to get E-2.

E-2 to E-3 is 2 inches. This forms the front strap.

F is located at the normal waist line.

F-1 is located at the normal waist line.

F-2 is located at the normal waist line.

G is half way between F and F-1.

Square up from G-1 to locate G-4.

Square up from G-2 to locate G-3.

This finishes the diagram.

from the front edge of pocket.

you want to give for ease.

This finishes the diagram for the stout.

A and B is the normal waist line.

Come up from A and B 2 inches to get C and D.

Diagram 1 shows the normal waist line at A and B.

Cut the pattern thru on line E and F as diagram 2.

Add 1/2 inch at F to get F-1.

Add 14 inch at E to E-1.

Shape the back as diagram at E-1 and F-1.

Square up from X-1.

The measurements are as follows

Inseam 32 in. Seat 37in. Bottom 16 in.

Square down and out from 1.

1 to 3 is the rise 9 inches.

o is 1Y> inch up from 4.

STOUT MEN'S TROUSERS

The measurements are :

Outside seam 42 in. Seat 44 in. Depression measure

Waist 42 in. Rise 11 in. Bottom 17 in.

Square down and out from 1.

1 to 3 is the rise 11 inches.

5 is IV2 inches up from 4.

Square out from 2, 3, 5 and 6.

Square up from 11 to get point 12.

The measurements are as follows :

Outside length 30 in. Knee length 23 in. Knee ISi/i in-

Inseam length 21 in.

Seat 38 in. Rise 9 in. Depression 2 in.

1 to C is the small of knee length plus 1 inch. 2 and B-1.

1 to D is the calf length jjIus 1 inch. Point 15 is '

Square up from A-3 to locate 3. A-5 is Ys seat from A-2.

the knee measure.

B-1 to B-4 is 1 inch.

Depression measure at waist 2 inches.

8 to 15 is seat. % B-2 to B-3 is 1/2 of an inch.

A to A-1 is Vs knee. to D-2.

Breast 44 in. Rcye depth 10 in. Side length - 24 in.