Bean Salads Updated | Cherries, Sweet & Savory | Ceviche Perfected | Italian Fruit Tarts

I N S P I R AT I O N F O R P A S S I O N AT E C O O K S

A new style of pizza…

Pinsa!

JUNE/JULY 2020 ’ No.165

EASY
www.finecooking.com 30-minute
dinners p. 14
 Architect. Mentor. Beekeeper.
A life well planned allows you to

While you may not be running an architectural firm, tending hives of honeybees and mentoring a
teenager — your life is just as unique. Backed by sophisticated resources and a team of specialists
in every field, a Raymond James financial advisor can help you plan for the dreams you have, the
way you care for those you love and how you choose to give back. So you can live your life.
 in every issue

Contents j u n e /j u ly 2 0 2 0
QQ群: 970508760
| issue 165
6
8
9
81
82
EDITOR’S NOTE
CONTRIBUTORS
FINE COOKING DIGITAL
NUTRITION
RECIPE INDEX

50
Cool Bean
Salads
Fresh and satisfying, these
four salads can take center
stage or play a supporting
role in summer menus
Recipes by Heather Meldrom

44
Discover Pinsa
These grilled flatbreads
56
are the latest evolution Supper from
of Roman pizza. the Grill
Text by Katie Parla; Enjoy the great outdoors
recipes by John Regefalk with mains and sides all
cooked over the fire.
By Lynne Curry
 16 33 76

10 13 38 79

QQ群: 970508760

60 10
d e pa r t m e n t s

IN SEASON

Cherry Picked Tomatillos

Now’s the time to
BOOKS THAT COOK
enjoy this sweet, tart
fruit in all its glory. 12 The Reading List
By Ian Knauer and New and noteworthy additions
Shelley Wiseman for your bookshelf

66 GREAT FINDS

Crostatas
These Italian tarts
feature an easy-to-make
crust and fresh fruit
fillings for an ideal
summer dessert.
By Domenica Marchetti
13 Summer Stock
Our latest picks for the kitchen
and table
14 Make It Tonight
Fresh and easy cooking
for summer, including Curried
Carrot Fritters, Thai Chicken
Wings with Cucumber-Peanut
Salad and Rice, Grilled Rib-Eye
Steaks with Shallot-Jalapeño-
Tomato Butter, and Grilled
Sea Bass and Potatoes with
Pimento-Chive Dressing.

ON THE MENU

30 Summer Alfresco Meal

Plus more menus to try

FOOD SCIENCE

33 Ceviche
How acid “cooks” seafood
without heat

MOVEABLE FEAST

38 A River Runs Through It

Cambridge chefs Alex Rushmer
and Tristan Welch prepare a
feast inspired by farm, fen, and
wild English meadows.

74 Test Kitchen
Tips, techniques, equipment,
ingredients, and more, from
our experts
N OT E F R O M T H E E D I TO R

Why Cooking Is Important Editorial Director

Art Director
Kathy Kingsley
Jodie Delohery
Managing Editor- Chris Hoelck
Midway through the production of this issue, the world changed. Like so Copy/Production
many people across the country and around the world, we followed govern- Food Editor/ Diana Andrews
ment guidelines and began working from home to social-distance and quar- Test Kitchen Manager
Test Kitchen Assistants Sarah Jeffrey
antine in response to the pandemic. For us, that meant (and may still mean) Tinsley Morrison
writing, editing, testing, and developing recipes; filming videos; taking photos; Mary Jo Romano
Joan Velush
and tending to all the other activities that keep our business humming. Noah Velush-Rogers
While at home, we’ve been spending more time cooking to feed our families Administrative Assistant Marjorie Brown
and ourselves, just like everyone else. Cooking has become a central rallying
Special Projects
point for us during this crisis, providing not just sustenance but also distraction Senior Special Sarah Opdahl
and comfort in a time of uncertainty. Fine Cooking’s social channels have been Projects Editor
flooded with photos of “isolation cooking” and “quarantine baking,” and we’ve
FineCooking.com
enjoyed hearing about your kitchen adventures and discoveries and sharing
Senior Web Producer Sarah Breckenridge
ours. Traffic to our website has spiked, with pantry meals and bread recipes (yes, Video Director Colin Russell
some were able to find yeast!) surging.
Editors at Large Susie Middleton
One thing is clear: Cooking and baking can reset your focus and provide a Jennifer Armentrout
respite during periods of chaos, and we’re thrilled that so many of you turned to Contributing Designer Kimberly Adis
us for help and guidance. Contributing Editor Rebecca Freedman
Contributing Writers Abigail Johnson Dodge
We did discover that working from home wasn’t without its challenges. Being Jill Silverman Hough
on a Zoom call in sweatpants from the sofa and having the refrigerator nearby Nanette Maxim
Tony Rosenfeld
has its merits, but the foundations of publishing a food magazine—holding photo
shoots and testing recipes—suddenly became problematic. Thanks to some To contact us: Fine Cooking
The Taunton Press
creative thinking (see “Supper From the Grill” on p. 56, for example, where we 63 South Main St.
feature beautiful illustrations instead of photos) and an amazing and dedicated Newtown, CT 06470
staff, we were able to overcome hurdles and keep things running smoothly. Email: fc@taunton.com
We hope you’ll find plenty of ideas and inspiration on these pages, plus on Visit: finecooking.com
our website and social platforms, to keep you and your loved ones well-fed dur- Submit an article proposal: Write to Fine Cooking at
ing these uncertain times and beyond. And as always, we love hearing from you. the address above or call: 800-309-0744 or fax: 203-
426-3434 Email: fc@taunton.com
Subscribe/place an order:
Enjoy! Visit finecooking.com/fcorder or call: 866-288-4208
Kathy Kingsley 9am-9pm ET Mon-Fri and 9am-7pm ET Sat
Editorial director Find out about Fine Cooking products:
Visit finecooking.com/products
Get help with online member services:
@FineCooking @katkings_ Visit finecooking.com/customerservice
Contact Fine Cooking customer service:
Email us at customerservice@finecooking.com
Fine Cooking: (ISSN: 1072-5121) is published six
times a year by The Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, CT
06470. Telephone: 203-426-8171. Periodicals postage
paid at Newtown, CT 06470 and at additional mailing
offices. GST paid registration #123210981.
Subscription Rates: U.S., $29.95 for one year, $49.95
for two years, $69.95 for three years. Canada, $31.95
for one year, $53.95 for two years, $75.95 for three
years (GST included, payable in U.S. funds). Outside
the U.S./Canada: $42 for one year, $72 for two years,
$102 for three years (payable in U.S. funds). Single
copy U.S., $6.95. Single copy Canada, $7.95.
Postmaster: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM
707.4.12.5); NONPOSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES:
Send address corrections to Fine Cooking, PO Box
37610, Boone, IA 50037-0610.

We’re practically the Zoom Brady Bunch. Clockwise from top left: Jodie Delohery, Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian
Kathy Kingsley, Chris Hoelck, Sarah Opdahl, Sarah Breckenridge, Diana Andrews, addresses to Fine Cooking, c/o Worldwide Mailers,
Megan Alderman-Person, Robina Lewis, and in the center as Alice, Erin Dubuque. Inc., 2835 Kew Drive, Windsor, ON N8T 3B7.

6 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

 LOVE TO COOK BUT DREAD SORE FEET?

SVP, Group Publisher Renee Jordan COMFORT FLOOR MATS

rjordan@finecooking.com
Associate Publisher, Alina Light Energy-return foam
Advertising 203-304-3501 provides proper
alight@finecooking.com
support for
Midwest Susan Welter
Account Director 773-425-3485 long-term standing
swelter@finecooking.com
Northeast Erin Rijo Patented gel
Account Director 203-304-3529 conforms to your
erijo@finecooking.com feet for cloud-like
comfort
Integrated Robina Lewis
Marketing Director
Social Media and Erin Dubuque
Events Marketing

Social Media and Megan Alderman-Person

Marketing Coordinator

Member Audit
Bureau of Circulation

Single Copy Sales

To speak directly to a customer service

professional: Call 866-288-4208 9am-9pm ET
Shown: GelPro Elite,® Jordan in Oatmeal
Mon-Fri; 9am-7pm ET Sat
Sell Fine Cooking in your store: Call us toll-free at
866-452-5179, or email us at tradecs@taunton.com
Advertise in Fine Cooking: Call 800-309-8940, or
email us at fcads@taunton.com
GelPro.com 866.GEL-MATS Made in the USA
WITH GLOBALLY SOURCED MATERIALS

Mailing list: We make a portion of our mailing list

available to reputable firms. If you would prefer
that we not include your name, please visit:
finecooking.com/privacy or call 866-288-4208
9am-9pm ET Mon-Fri; 9am-7pm ET Sat.
Bella Copper
The Taunton guarantee: If at any time you’re not
completely satisfied with Fine Cooking, you can
cancel your subscription and receive a full and
immediate refund of the entire subscription price.
No questions asked.

Copyright 2020 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No

reproduction without permission of The Taunton
Press, Inc.
Independent publishers since 1975
Founders, Paul & Jan Roman

President & CEO

CFO
Dan McCarthy
Mark Fernberg
Solid Copper Heat Diffusers
CTO Brian Magnotta and Defroster Plates
VP, Human Resources Carol Marotti
SVP, Group Publisher Renee Jordan Equalized Heating — No hot spots
Publishers of magazines, books, videos, and online They really work! — because copper
4W\SE]]Re]`YW\U’4W\S6][SPcWZRW\U
BV`SORa’4W\S5O`RS\W\U’4W\S1]]YW\U conducts heat better.
taunton.com
Excellent as an oven plate!
Made in USA since 2002

Printed in the USA 805 218 3241

www.BellaCopper.com

4 7 < 3 1 = = 9 7 < 5 1 = ; 7

Domenica
Marchetti
(“Crostatas,” p. 66) is
the author of seven
books on Italian
home cooking. She
teaches Italian cooking across the U.S. and
leads culinary tours in Italy.
’BVS\SfbPWUT]]Rb`S\ReWZZPS I feel like
more and more of us will be learning more
“survival” skills: planting gardens, putting up
preserves, keeping a bread starter, using up scraps.
’BVS[]abc\RS``ObSRYWbQVS\b]]ZWa ’;
your own hands. I like to use my hands for
everything from mixing, say, meatball ingre-
dients to kneading bread and pasta dough.
Nothing is more satisfying than rolling up your
sleeves and letting your hands do the work.
’;gTOd]`WbSac[[S`^`]RcQSWa zucchini.
I love it cooked slowly in cream and then tossed
with pasta; sliced into batons and fried in a light
batter; hollowed out and stuffed with meatball
mixture, then baked in tomato sauce; pan-fried
and marinated in vinegar (alla scapece); and,
of course, in spiced zucchini bread.
D O N ’ T O`S³ b]Q]]YO`S³
Contributors
Based in the moun- Shelley Wiseman and Ian Knauer (“Cherry
tains of eastern Picked,” p. 60) are both former magazine food
Oregon, Lynne editors. They now run The Farm Cooking School
Curry (“Supper on on a bucolic farm in Titusville, N.J. They’re the
the Grill,” p. 56) is a authors of The Farm Cooking School: Techniques
food writer, blogger, and Recipes That Celebrate the Seasons.
educator, and the author of the grass-fed beef
cookbook Pure Beef.
’BVSW\U`SRWS\b7QO\¿bZWdSeWbV]cbWa³
Spanish olive oil.
’;gU]b]P`SOYTOabWa³ yogurt and home-
made maple granola.
 gab`SaaSObW\Ua\OQYWa³ lentil sea salt
crackers.
Ian Knauer
’BVSbV`SSbVW\UaOZeOgaW\[gT`WRUSO`S³
mayonnaise, hot sauce, and miso.
Rome-based food and ’BVSRWaV7[]abeO\bb]ZSO`\b]Q]]YWa³
beverage writer Katie cannelés. I’ve never made them, but I love to
Parla (“Discovering eat them.
Pinsa,” p. 44) is the ’BVSRWaVSa7[]abS\X]gbSOQVW\U^S]^ZS
author of Food of the b]Q]]YO`S³ breads and cheeses. There’s a lot
Italian South and is of science that I can dive into.
co-host of the Gola Podcast. Shelley Wiseman
’;gTOd]`WbS^ZOQSb]SOb^WhhOWa³ standing ’BVSbV`SSbVW\UaOZeOgaW\[gT`WRUSO`S³
on the sidewalk outside Pizzarium in Rome. butter, Dijon mustard, and avocados.
’7\ac[[S`7QO\¿beOWbb]Q]]YeWbV³ ’BVSRWaV7[]abeO\bb]ZSO`\b]Q]]YWa³
eggplant. They’re so much better in season. Moroccan bastilla.
’BVSbV`SSbVW\UaOZeOgaW\[gT`WRUS ’BVSRWaVSa7[]abS\X]gbSOQVW\U^S]^ZS
Texas Pete hot sauce, Greek yogurt, and handmade couscous and crêpes.

;7AA=C@
sparkling wine.

Photos clockwise from top left: Olga Berman, courtesy of Lynne Curry, Guy Ambrosino, Ed Anderson.
NEX T
ISSUE! Peak Season Never Tasted Better

A[OZZ0ObQV8O[a <]1Vc`\7QS1`SO[
Make five easy jams, No ice cream maker
and enjoy them now needed, yet all of the
or save their summery rich, creamy flavor Ac[[S`7bOZWO\;S\c
flavors for the chilly The fresh, vibrant
weather months. flavors of regional
1]]YW\UeWbV6S`Pa
Italian cooking shine
Recipes and tips for
through in a menu that
using fresh herbs to
celebrates summer.
take a dish from good
to great >Zcaa][cQV[]`S
W\bVWaWaacS

Look for Fine Cooking¿a August/September issue on newsstands 8cZg &  

8 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

 Fine Cooking Digital
@FineCooking @finecookingmag

Instagram July 4th

Festivities

@amerryrecipe Brunch at home: Kale &

Herb Galette! Inspired by a recipe I saw
in @finecookingmag. #wecandothis
#covid19baking Our Fourth of July guide includes our top grilling and
BBQ recipes, alfresco menus, and red-white-and-blue desserts.
Find it all at FineCooking.com/fourth-of-july.

Scan for more fun, delicious ideas for

the 4th. Hover your smartphone camera
over the icon—no special app required.

READER POLL
We asked how you eat corn
@theimpatientfuturist I don’t often on the cob: typewriter style
repeat recipes because I’m a fairly new (left to right) or rolling-pin style
cook. That being said, this recipe is worth (rotary)?
coming back to: Cocoa-Rubbed Rack of
Lamb with Gremolata from @finecooking Turns out the typewriters take
mag. Yes, you read that right ... cocoa! the win!
TYPEWRITER
Listen to our chat 56%
with Toni Tipton-
Martin, whose
books are dedi-
Photo © Pableaux Johnson

cated to chronicling ROLLING PIN

African-American 44%
contributions to Some of our readers were
culinary history. passionate about eating
another way:
Eric G. I eat random bites de-
pending on where the butter is.
Have a question for our editors or a topic idea you’d Carol L. I eat mine starting left to
like us to cover on an upcoming episode? Leave a the middle and then go around
Check out our tasty Father’s Day ideas: comment in our Facebook group! Search for The Fine the cob, then repeat the process
Cooking Podcast on Facebook. for the remaining corn.
open click on and tap

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 9
 In Season
Fine Cooking editors and a reader share some
delicious ideas for tomatillos.

Tomatillos
Tangy, vibrant tomatillos are
famous for the zing they bring
to salsa verde and the zesty,
citrusy flavor they impart to
many other dishes. Indigenous
to Mexico and Central America,
where they have been cultivated
for thousands of years, these
small, round fruits, encased in
parchment-like husks, are staples
in Mexican cooking, adding a
sharp tartness to dishes when
used raw or a slightly sweeter
flavor when cooked.
Tomatillos are particularly
delicious with chile peppers,
onions, and cilantro—often
their fellow ingredients in classic
Mexican sauces and salsas. Pair
tomatillos with avocados, corn,
lime, and scallions for a fresh
salad or topping for seafood
or grilled meat.

10 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

shop »
Tomatillos are in season from early summer through fall. Look for
firm fruits without blemishes and with their dry, papery husks firmly
attached and almost completely covering the fruit. Avoid bruised or
shriveled tomatillos. At their peak, tomatillos are vibrant green, which
indicates that they’re ripe. Tomatillos can ripen to red or purple, but
their flavor turns sweeter as they ripen. Don’t buy tomatillos that have
turned yellowish-green or feel squishy; they’re past their prime.
store »
Store tomatillos with their husks on in a paper bag at cool room
temperature, or loose in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 weeks. For longer
storage, remove the husk, and wash and dry the fruit. Put the tomatil-
los on a large rimmed baking sheet, and freeze until solid. Transfer
to a heavy-duty storage bag, and store in the freezer for up to two to
three months.
prep »
To prep tomatillos, peel the husk and rinse off the sticky residue with
warm water. You don’t need to remove the seeds. Eaten raw, tomatillos
can be a little acidic and sharp-tasting.

make »
Mexican Tomatillo Pizza
Put a pizza stone in the oven, and heat until
very hot. Stretch your favorite pizza dough
into a 10-inch round and place on a
well-floured pizza peel. Spread your
favorite pizza sauce over the dough, leav-
ing an edge. Top with husked, sliced tomatillos,
thinly sliced garlic, and shredded Monterey
Jack cheese. Slide the pizza onto the stone
and bake until the crust is crisp and golden,
about 10 minutes. Top with fresh cilantro
and serve. —Kathy Kingsley
Tomatillo Grilled Cheese Sandwiches
Lightly dip sliced tomatillos in flour, egg,
and then panko. In a nonstick skillet, fry
on both sides until golden, then drain.
Wipe out the pan and set aside. Mash
together grated sharp Cheddar, granu-
lated garlic, and enough soften-
ed butter for the mixture to hold
together. Spread the mixture on
one side of two slices of hearty
bread. Transfer one piece of
bread to the skillet, mixture side
up. Arrange tomatillos on top.
Top with the remaining bread
slice, mixture side down.
Cover and cook, flipping
once, until both sides are
toasted and the cheese
mixture is melted.
—Diana Andrews
Tomatillo Gazpacho
Grill whole tomatillos and
poblanos over a direct flame
until just charred all over. Place
in a metal bowl and cover tightly
with plastic wrap to loosen the
skins. Rub away the skins, then
place in a food processor along
with peeled, diced cucumbers and
coarsely chopped cilantro. Process,
adding olive oil until smooth. Season
with salt, pepper, and sherry vinegar.
Serve with a dollop of Greek yogurt and
Aleppo pepper flakes.
—Sarah Breckenridge
Tomatillo-Black Bean Salsa
In a medium nonreactive bowl, combine
chopped tomatillos, black beans, diced
seedless cucumber, minced jalapeño, lime
juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Add a
splash of tequila, if you like. Serve with fish
tacos or chips. —Chris Hoelck
READER RECIPE
READER RECIPE

Tomatillo Omelet Roasted Tomatillo Sauce

In a small omelet pan, cook
thinly sliced shallots with small-diced sweet
bell pepper in olive oil until soft. Add coarsely
chopped tomatillos and cook until the tomatil-
los break down to a chunky sauce. Transfer
to a bowl and sprinkle with coarsely chopped
cilantro. Use as an omelet filling or serve on
top of a cheese omelet.
—Jodie Delohery
Place whole tomatillos, large garlic cloves,
jalapeños, and quartered white onion on a
foil-lined baking sheet and roast in a 400°F
oven until tender, about 15 minutes. Heat
the broiler to lightly char. Place the roasted
vegetables with their juices in a food processor
with cumin, cilantro, fresh lime juice, and salt,
and pulse briefly to combine. Serve the sauce
warm on grilled or roasted chicken.
—Monica de Ortiz

Photographs this page by Kathy Kingsley F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 11

 The Reading List
Fresh from Poland
New Vegetarian Cooking
from the Old Country
By Michel Korkosz
(The Experiment; $19.95)
When my Polish grandmother
bought a head of cabbage and
pound of hamburger at the
A&P, I knew I was in for a treat:
stuffed cabbage. Braised in a
tomatoey sauce and stuffed
with beef and rice, those tender
cabbage rolls are a favorite
childhood food memory.
As was the case for most of
my grandmother’s generation,
a meal wasn’t a meal unless an
animal protein was somehow
involved (even her pierogis had
bacon in them), so I wonder
what she’d make of Michel
Korkosz’s inventive new book,
Fresh from Poland. Indeed,
Korkosz has stuffed cabbage,
but he fills them with potatoes
and buckwheat. His pierogis
feature, among other appealing
fillings, lentils and dried toma-
toes; and spinach, goat cheese,
and salted almonds.
Fresh from Poland goes
beyond pierogis, too, with in-
12 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    P h o t o g r a p h s b y M i k e Ya m i n
New and noteworthy additions for your bookshelf
B Y C H R I S H O E LC K
triguing soups (Tomato-Apple
Soup with “Poured Noodles”),
mains (Buckwheat Stir-Fry
with Kale, Beans, and Goat
Cheese), and preserves (Brown
Butter Applesauce with Cider).
In hindsight, I wish I’d learned
how to make some of those
foods that Grandma prepared,
but I’m glad to have this book
with its contemporary meat-
free approach to teach me about
my culinary history.
The New
Homemade Kitchen
250 Recipes and Ideas for
Reinventing the Art of
Preserving, Canning,
Fermenting, Dehydrating,
and More
By Joseph Shuldiner
(Chronicle Books; $35)
The Institute of Domestic
Technology sounds like a bit
of a throwback, like a 1950s
home-ec program, but it has
a much more contemporary
mission: to provide instruc-
tion on lost culinary arts. Thus,
here, for instance, you’ll learn
how to make mustard from
scratch. You may be tempted to
ask why you’d even want to do
that. The answer? Because you
can customize your mustard
with amazing flavor combina-
tions (choose among types of
mustard seeds, vinegars, spices,
salts, and sweeteners).
It’s not just here that this
book cuts the mustard, either.
From condiments to coffee
(yes, you can roast your own
beans at home), dairy (such as
kefir, butter, and goat cheese)
to dehydration (including fruit
and vegetable powders), you
can embark on adventures that
but he has, and it’s a keeper. The
book is divided into four color-
run the gamut from quick to
coded sections: Bases, Fillings,
project level.
Finishings, and Assembly &
I would have appreciated
Techniques. While many com-
this information-loaded book
ponents can stand alone (vanilla
regardless, but the reality that
pound cake, brownies, dark
we’ve all been staying at home
chocolate mousse, vanilla ice
more than usual makes The New
cream), they also are potential
Homemade Kitchen feel richly
mix-and-match pieces to fuel
of the moment. If you can grow
your dessert imagination.
your own sourdough starter,
In case you’re stumped
you can cure your own bacon.
about where to start, Ansel
After reading through The
includes some ideas to get you
New Homemade Kitchen, I
going. Two that caught my eye
had to look up the Institute of
are Chocolate Cherry Cake
Domestic Technology. At the
(Brownie with Cherry Jam and
school’s website, I read the sad
Chocolate Buttercream) and
news that its founding direc-
Peanut Butter Crunch Cake
tor—Joseph Shuldiner—died in
(Caramelized Puffed Rice with
November. He surely left a spec-
Peanut Butter Mousse and Dark
tacular legacy with this book.
Chocolate Ganache).
Everyone Can Bake While there are a few excep-
Simple Recipes to Master tions—and much to the chagrin
and Mix of some of my friends—I tend
By Dominique Ansel to be loath to bake the same
(Simon & Schuster; $37.50) recipe twice. With Everyone
Pastry chef Dominique Ansel Can Bake, however, I’m sure I’ll
invented the Cronut. With a make some of the same things
resume credit like that, it seems again. The glory is that each
like a stretch that he’d write a time, they’ll be part of some
book called Everyone Can Bake, new and different dessert.

Big Chill
Ice cream is summer’s easiest,
most-wanted dessert, with
one giant drawback: It melts
too quickly even on a short
drive home from the store.
Forget about serving ice cream
to cap off an outdoor event.
That’s why we’re picking up
Asobu’s new ice cream keeper,
a vacuum-insulated tumbler
that keeps your frozen dessert
cool for hours. It’s also got two
reusable spoons built into the
lid and a carry handle—just pop
in your pint and take your ice
cream to the pool, picnic, or
park. $29.99 per container;
asobubottle.com.
Eat Your Fruit (and Veg)
We thought we’d seen just
about every flavor of jam—until
we met Confiture Parisienne’s
handmade, small-batch
creations. These jams combine
fruit and vegetables, which is
surprising—we assure you—in
a good way. Their Carrot,
Passionfruit & Vanilla Jam and
Strawberry & Bell Pepper Jam
are a tasty twist for breakfast or
a cheese plate. $28 for 8.8 oz.;
thefrenchfarm.com.
P h o t o g r a p h s b y M i k e Ya m i n
Great Finds
Summer Stock
Our latest picks for the kitchen and table
BY REBECCA FREEDMAN
Hop To It
What happens when you
brew tea with hops, like beer?
You get HopTea, a refreshing,
sparkling summer drink that
reminds us of beer, except
Island Treasures it’s alcohol-, sugar-, additive-,
If you can’t be in the Caribbean, why not bring the Caribbean to and fermentation-free.
your kitchen? Grenadine Wild Sea Salts, harvested on the island Flavors include black, green,
of Bequia in St. Vincent and the Grenadines, are blended with white, herbal, and fruity vari-
tropical flavors like coconut, dark rum, and mango and lime, so eties, all with a hoppy, bitter
they give an islandy spin to any dish (think grilled fish, meats, edge. We’ll be drinking this all
or fruit). Note that these specialty salts are meant for finishing; summer long. $35 for 12
don’t cook with them, as you’ll lose their delicate crunch. $10 to 16-oz. cans; hoptea.com.
$14 for 1 oz.; grenadineseasalt.com.
Olive It Up
Natural OliveWood,
a family-owned business,
creates beautiful charcuterie
boards from no-longer-productive
olive trees. With a bold wood-grain pattern
and large surface area, they make a dramatic
presentation at the table; they’re also lightweight, and
the helper handle makes them easy to carry and hang.
From $50; naturalolivewood.com.
Shop Smart
Instead of bringing single-use plastic
bags to the farmers’ market or grocery
store, pick up the The Better Farm
Company’s reusable, functional,
and minimalist bag sets. Options
include these linen bulk bags for
items like beans and rice, mesh
bags for fresh produce, and
more. Mesh set of five, $32;
linen bulk bags from $14; the
betterfarmco.com.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 13
 Make it
Tonight
Fresh and easy cooking for any day of the week

« GRILLED SEA BASS

AND POTATOES WITH
PIMENTO-CHIVE
DRESSING, P. 16
Pair With: White Rhone
or Marsanne blend

CURRIED CARROT
FRITTERS, P. 16
Pair With: Riesling

HERBED ISRAELI
COUSCOUS WITH TUNA
AND PRESERVED LEMON,
> 
Pair With: Sauvignon Blanc

THAI CHICKEN WINGS

WITH CUCUMBER-PEANUT
SALAD AND RICE, > 
Pair With: Witbier

SALMON AND ASPARAGUS

SKEWERS WITH AÏOLI ,
>
Pair With: White Rhone
or Marsanne blend

GRILLED RIB-EYE
STEAKS WITH SHALLOT-
JALAPEÑO-TOMATO
BUTTER, > "
Pair With: Syrah

QUINOA BOWLS
WITH SEARED HALLOUMI,
ROASTED TOMATOES,
AND CHICKPEAS, P. 26
Pair With: Rosé

Double-Decker
Chicken Guacamole
Tacos, p. TK

14 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    Photo above by Dane Tashima. Food styling by Heather Meldrom.
M A K E I T TO N I G H T

ON THE GRILL

grilled sea bass and

potatoes with pimento-
chive dressing
If you can’t find sea bass, Arctic char
makes a great substitute. Also, make sure
that the grate is scraped clean and coated
with oil before you put the fish on to grill, or
the fish could stick to the grate. Serves 4

¾ cup vegetable oil; more as needed

2 lb. yellow potatoes, cut into
¼–inch-thick slices
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 6-oz. skin-on sea bass fillets
½ cup diced pimentos
3 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives
3 Tbs. sherry vinegar
3 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp. honey
¾ tsp. smoked paprika VEGETARIAN
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
curried carrot fritters
>`S^O`SO[SRWc[!#Ž4b]!%#Ž4UOa]`
Fritters make a perfect, light dinner on a warm summer evening. Here,
QVO`Q]OZU`WZZTW`S0`caVbVSU`WZZU`ObSeWbVdSU-
sweet carrots are balanced with spicy curry and a refreshing parsley-
SbOPZS]WZ
onion salad on the side. Serves 4
B]aabVS^]bOb]aZWQSaeWbVþ´Qc^]TbVS
dSUSbOPZS]WZO\RaSOa]\eWbV´ba^aOZbO\RO
1½ lb. grated carrots (about 5 cups)
TSeU`W\Ra]T^S^^S`:WUVbZgP`caVbVSPOaaeWbV 6SOb´BPaPcbbS`O\R´BPadSU-
Kosher salt
dSUSbOPZS]WZO\RaSOa]\eWbV´ba^aOZbO\Rý´ba^ SbOPZS]WZW\OZO`USaYWZZSb]dS`[SRWc[
6 large eggs
^S^^S`5`WZZbVS^]bOb]SaT]`OP]cb$´[W\cbSa Z]eVSObc\bWZbVSPcbbS`[SZbaCaW\U
1 cup chickpea flour
4ZW^O\RQ]]Yc\bWZbS\RS`OP]cb#´[W\cbSa[]`S O]\SbVW`RQc^[SOac`SaQ]]^T]c`
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
B`O\aTS`b]O^ZObSO\RbS\beWbVT]WZ Qc^TcZa]TbVSPObbS`W\b]bVSaYWZZSb
1½ Tbs. curry powder
AQ`O^SbVSU`WZZU`ObSQZSO\O\RP`caVeWbV O\RTZObbS\SOQVeWbVOa^ObcZOb]OP]cb
Freshly ground black pepper
dSUSbOPZS]WZ5`WZZbVSTWaVaYW\aWRSR]e\T]` 3 Tbs. unsalted butter; more as
ýW\QVbVWQY\Saa1]]Y`]bObW\UbVS
OP]cb%´[W\cbSaBc`\O\RQ]]Yc\bWZXcabQ]]YSR needed aYWZZSb]QQOaW]\OZZgc\bWZbVST`WbbS`aO`S
bV`]cUVOP]cb"´[W\cbSa[]`S 3 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed U]ZRS\]\bVSP]bb]["b]#´[W\cbSa
;SO\eVWZSW\Oa[OZZP]eZeVWaYbVS^W[S\b]a ¾ cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley 4ZW^O\RQ]]Yc\bWZU]ZRS\OP]cb!´[W\-
QVWdSadW\SUO`UO`ZWQV]\Sg^O^`WYOO\RbVS leaves cbSa[]`SB`O\aTS`bVST`WbbS`ab]O
`S[OW\W\Uý´Qc^dSUSbOPZS]WZASOa]\b]bOabS ½ small red onion, thinly sliced ^ZObSZW\SReWbV^O^S`b]eSZaEW^S]cb
eWbVaOZbO\R^S^^S` 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice bVSaYWZZSb@S^SObb][OYSbe][]`S
/``O\USbVS^]bOb]Sa]\OaS`dW\U^ZObbS`O\R 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil PObQVSacaW\U´BPaPcbbS`O\R´BPa
Q]ObeWbVVOZT]TbVSR`SaaW\UB]^bVS^]bOb]SaeWbV ½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt dSUSbOPZS]WZT]`SOQVPObQV
bVSU`WZZSRTWaVO\Ra^]]\bVS`S[OW\W\UR`SaaW\U Lemon wedges, for serving 7\O[SRWc[P]eZb]aabVS^O`aZSg
]dS`SOQVTWZZSb2`WhhZSeWbVSfb`OdW`UW\]ZWdS]WZO\R O\R]\W]\eWbV´BPa]TbVSZS[]\XcWQS
B]aabVSQO``]baeWbVÿ´ba^aOZbO\RZSb
aS`dSV]b]`Ob`]][bS[^S`Obc`S bVS]ZWdS]WZý´ba^aOZbO\Rþ´ba^^S^-
R`OW\W\OTW\SaVaWSdST]`#´[W\cbSa)
—Deborah Reid ^S`7\Oa[OZZP]eZabW`bVS`S[OW\W\U
^`Saab]a_cSShS]cbO\gSfQSaaeObS`
´BPaZS[]\XcWQSW\b]bVSg]Uc`b2W-
7\OZO`USP]eZeVWaYbVSSUUa/RR
dWRSbVS^O`aZSgaOZORO[]\U"´^ZObSa
bVSR`OW\SRQO``]baTZ]c`UO`ZWQQc``g
b]^eWbV!´T`WbbS`aO\RaS`dSR]ZZ]^SR
^]eRS`ÿ´ba^aOZbO\ROTSeU`W\Ra
eWbVbVSg]Uc`b—Erica Clark
]T^S^^S`

16 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    Photo by Mike Yamin

MAILLE, CRAFTING FLAVOR SINCE 1747
©2020 Unilever IBP20014
 ADVERTISEMENT

*******************************
These delicious takes on the classic Caprese salad,
featuring BelGioioso fresh mozzarella and burrata,
will take your summer dining to the next level.

BURRATA, Four 4 oz. balls BelGioioso® Cut each avocado into

Burrata
WATERMELON
2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
& AVOCADO (optional)
¼ cup toasted pine nuts
CAPRESE
Flaky sea salt
SERVES 6 TO 8
In a small bowl, whisk
1 tsp. finely grated together the orange zest and
orange zest juice, shallot, vinegar, honey,
3½ Tbs. fresh orange juice and ½ tsp. salt. Continue to
1½ Tbs. minced shallot whisk while drizzling the oil
1 Tbs. Champagne vinegar into the bowl until emulsi-
fied. Set aside.
1 tsp. honey
Kosher salt Cut the watermelon into
½-inch-thick slices. Halve
6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
each slice, then halve again
4½ to 5 lb. seedless baby
to yield 16 triangular pieces.
watermelon
Trim off the rind and set
2 medium avocados
aside. Save any remaining
3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
watermelon for another use.
4 oz. (4 packed cups)
baby arugula
8 wedges. Brush each
wedge with lemon juice.
Arrange the arugula to
cover a large platter. Ar-
range alternating slices
of watermelon and avocado FRESH MOZZARELLA,
on top of the arugula. Place
the BelGioioso® Burrata in EGGPLANT, AND
the center of the platter and TOMATO CAPRESE
slice to release the strac-
ciatella, the creamy center. TOWERS
Drizzle some of the dressing
over the watermelon, avo- SERVES 6
cado, and burrata. Garnish
with the thyme leaves, if 1 lb. Italian eggplant
using. Top with the pine ¼ cup olive oil; more as needed
nuts and the flaky sea salt Kosher salt and freshly ground
to taste. Pass any remaining black pepper
dressing at the table. 2 medium sweet onions
12 slices BelGioioso® Fresh Mozzarella,
½ inch thick
3 medium heirloom tomatoes, cut into
12 crosswise slices ½ inch thick
Balsamic glaze
6 Tbs. thinly sliced basil ribbons
Smoked or regular flaky sea salt

Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F)

gas or charcoal grill fire.
Cut the eggplant into twelve
½-inch-thick crosswise slices. Lightly
brush both sides with oil and grill
until char marks appear, about 5
minutes per side. Transfer to one
side of a large rimmed baking sheet,
and season generously with salt and
pepper. Set aside.
From the center of each onion,
cut three ½-inch crosswise slices.
Lightly brush both sides with oil and
grill until char marks appear, being
careful to keep the rings intact,
about 4 minutes per side. Transfer
to the empty side of the rimmed
baking sheet and seson generously
with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Have ready six serving plates. On
each plate stack the ingredients
as follows; eggplant, BelGioioso®
Fresh Mozzarella, tomato, onion,
eggplant, tomato, BelGioioso®
Fresh Mozzarella. Drizzle each with
balsamic glaze to taste, 1 Tbs. of the
basil ribbons, and smoked flaky sea
salt. Serve immediately.
 FRESH
MOZZARELLA
With a fresh, milky flavor, 5 grams of
protein and only 70 calories per ounce,
BelGioioso Fresh Mozzarella will
freshen up any recipe. Top your
salads with Pearls, add Burrata
to a grilled vegetable platter or
take a convenient snack when
you are on the go. You can
trust BelGioioso for quality,
flavor and variety.

At BelGioioso, every
cheese is a specialty.

Find BelGioioso in the

Deli specialty cheese case.
belgioioso.com/product-locator

rBST Free | Gluten Free | Award-Winning | Vegetarian “AMERICA’S FAVORITE”

 thai chicken wings with
cucumber-peanut salad and rice
These wings make a great appetizer, but served with rice and a tangy
cucumber salad, they’re part of a refreshing summertime dinner.
Save the wing tips for chicken stock. Serves 4

Nonstick cooking spray

3½ lb. chicken wings, split at the wing
joints and patted dry
¾ tsp. smoked salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup Thai sweet chili sauce
¼ cup fish sauce
4 tsp. chopped garlic
1 large English cucumber, halved
PANTRY DINNER lengthwise, seeded, and thinly
sliced
herbed israeli 1½ Tbs. seasoned rice vinegar
couscous with tuna ¼ cup chopped dry-roasted peanuts
4 cups steamed short-grain or
and preserved lemon jasmine rice, for serving
The bright Mediterranean flavors of this Position a rack in the center of the oven,
dish are nicely balanced by the pearls of O\RVSObbVS]dS\b]"#Ž4ASbOeW`S
Israeli couscous. Jarred preserved lemons rack on a large foil-lined rimmed baking
are available at well-stocked markets, or aVSSbO\Ra^`OgbVS`OQYeWbVQ]]YW\U
learn to make your own at FineCooking
.com. Serves 4
a^`Og7\OZO`USP]eZb]aabVSeW\Ua
eWbVbVSaOZbO\R^S^^S`O\RbVS\
O``O\US]\bVS`OQY@]Oabc\bWZbVSaYW\
WaQ`Wa^OP]cb ´[W\cbSa
;SO\eVWZSQ][PW\SbVSQVWZWaOcQS
!´BPa]TbVSTWaVaOcQSO\R!´ba^]TbVS
UO`ZWQW\Oa[OZZP]eZ7\O\]bVS`a[OZZ
P]eZb]aabVS`S[OW\W\U´ba^UO`ZWQO\R
´BPaTWaVaOcQSeWbVbVSQcQc[PS`
dW\SUO`O\R^SO\cba
0`caVbVSeW\UaZWPS`OZZgeWbVbVSQVWZW
aOcQS6SObbVSP`]WZS`]\VWUVO\R
bVS\P`]WZbVSeW\Uabc`\W\UbVSPOYW\U
aVSSb]\QSc\bWZQ`Wa^gO\RP`]e\SRW\
^ZOQSaOP]cb#´[W\cbSaAS`dSeWbVbVS
QcQc[PS`aOZORO\R`WQS
—Ivy Manning

1½ cups Israeli couscous

10 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered
2 6- to 7-oz. jars tuna fillets in olive oil,
drained and flaked
½ loosely packed cup chopped
fresh mint
¼ loosely packed cup chopped fresh
flat-leaf parsley
3 scallions, thinly sliced
¼ cup chopped preserved lemon,
plus 2 Tbs. liquid from the jar
¼ cup olive oil
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
Sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper

>`S^O`SbVSQ]caQ]caOQQ]`RW\Ub]^OQYOUS
RW`SQbW]\aB`O\aTS`b]OZO`USP]eZO\Rb]aaeWbV
bVSb][Ob]Sa´XO`]TbVSbc\ObVS[W\b^O`aZSg
O\RaQOZZW]\a
7\Oa[OZZP]eZQ][PW\SbVS^`SaS`dSRZS[]\
O\RZW_cWRbVS]WZO\RUO`ZWQ2`WhhZSbVSR`Saa-
W\U]dS`bVSQ]caQ]caaSOa]\eWbVþ´ba^SOQV
aOZbO\R^S^^S`O\Rb]aab]Q][PW\SB`O\aTS`
bVSQ]caQ]cab]OZO`US^ZObbS`O\Rb]^eWbVbVS
`S[OW\W\UXO`]Tbc\OO\R[]`S^S^^S`b]bOabS
—Erica Clark

20 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    >V]b]a(b]^ZSTbPg;WYSGO[W\)P]bb][`WUVbPg2O\SBOaVW[O

 FINE COOKING STARTS WITH
THE WORLD'S FINEST
RICE VINEGAR ™

Marukan rice vinegars are slow-brewed

to perfection using only non-GMO
Simply
verified rice. Add smooth-tasting
Maru licious
zest and flavor to all of
Discover the delicious recipes of Marukan at
your favorite foods. RICEVINEGAR.COM
M A K E I T TO N I G H T

ON THE GRILL

salmon and asparagus skewers with aïoli

Hearty salmon is a perfect fish for the grill, especially with asparagus and a tangy aïoli. If
the weather’s not right for grilling outdoors, try the skewers on a grill pan. Serves 4 to 6

3 lemons Have ready 16 8-inch-long metal or pepper flakes; set

1½ lb. skinless salmon, cut into wooden skewers. If using wooden
16 cubes
skewers, soak them in cool water for
1 bunch thick asparagus, trimmed
and cut into 3-inch pieces 30 minutes before using.
3 Tbs. vegetable oil Cut two of the lemons into thin
Kosher salt and freshly ground slices, and juice the third. Set aside.
black pepper Prepare a medium (350°F to
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire, and
½ cup mayonnaise oil the grate. Using two skewers per
2 medium cloves garlic, minced kebab, thread the salmon, folded
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce lemon slices, and asparagus onto
the skewers, and arrange them on a
large rimmed baking sheet.
Brush the skewers with the oil,
then season with salt, pepper, and
aside.
Whisk the may-
onnaise, garlic,
Worcestershire
sauce, and 2 Tbs.
of the lemon juice in
a small bowl. Season to
taste with salt and pepper.
Grill the kebabs, turning
once halfway through cooking,
until the salmon and asparagus are
cooked through, about 6 minutes.
Serve with the aïoli for dipping.
—Erica Clark

22 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    Photograph this page by Mike Yamin

Most companies The reckless pursuit
think having a of profits without any
strong opinion consideration for the
means scaring well-being of the
away customers planet and the
who think differ- humans that live
ently. We think here should be
it’s a good way considered a crime.
to make some new Companies have as
friends. For the much responsibility
record, we believe as politicians for
we should eat building a society
stuff that we can that the rest of the
grow instead of world can admire.
growing stuff to Bigfoot the legendary
feed animals and Sasquatch is real.
then eat them. Okay, that last one has
Everybody — regardless of spiritual nothing to do with Oatly and is the
beliefs, birth country, race, gender, personal belief of the guy writing
sexual orientation or color of their this. Apologies, this ad is not a
nail polish — is of equal worth. place for personal reflection.
M A K E I T TO N I G H T
ON THE GRILL
grilled rib-eye steaks with
shallot-jalapeño-tomato butter
For the compound butter (see Test Kitchen, p. 76), it’s important to use
sun-dried tomatoes that aren’t packed in oil. Otherwise, the butter won’t
hold together properly. Serves 4
2 1-lb. boneless rib-eye steaks, about
1 inch thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
4 oz. (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
3 Tbs. finely chopped sun-dried tomato
2 Tbs. finely chopped jalapeño
2 Tbs. finely chopped shallot
1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 tsp. smoked salt
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
Neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola,
for the grill
Put the steaks on a rack over a large rimmed
baking sheet. Pat the steaks dry with paper
towels, and then generously season both
aWRSaeWbVY]aVS`aOZbO\R^S^^S`:SbaWb
Ob`]][bS[^S`Obc`ST]`c^b] ´V]c`a]`
refrigerated, uncovered, up to overnight
ZSbaWbOb`]][bS[^S`Obc`SObZSOab´V]c`
before grilling).
24 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    Photograph by Dane Tashima
ON THE SIDE
grilled okra with
orange-shallot
vinaigrette
Serves 4
>`S^O`SO[SRWc[VWUV"Ž4b]
"%#Ž4UOa]`QVO`Q]OZU`WZZTW`S7\
Oa[OZZP]eZeVWaY$´BPaextra-
virgin olive oil,ý´ba^TW\SZgU`ObSR
orange zest,!´BPaT`SaVorange
juice, ´BPa[W\QSRshallot,´BPa
Champagne vinegar,´ba^honey,
O\Rý´ba^kosher salt. Set aside.
7\O[SRWc[P]eZQ][PW\S´ZP
okraeWbV´BPaSfb`OdW`UW\]ZWdS]WZ
ý´ba^Y]aVS`aOZbO\Rþ´ba^T`SaVZg
ground black pepper. Toss to com-
bine. Grill the okra in a single layer
until tender and charred in places,
turning halfway through cooking
bW[Sb] ´[W\cbSab]bOZB`O\a-
fer the okra to a platter, drizzle with
some of the dressing, and garnish
eWbV ´ba^b]OabSRsesame seeds.
Serve the remaining dressing at the
>`S^O`SO[SRWc[VWUV"Ž4b]"%#Ž4 table. —Diana Andrews
gas or charcoal grill fire. Meanwhile, using a
silicone spatula, stir together the butter,
tomato, jalapeño, shallot, parsley, zest,
smoked salt, and thyme in a small bowl until
well combined. Transfer to a small serving
bowl and set aside.
:WUVbZg]WZbVSU`WZZ>ObbVSabSOYaR`geWbV
^O^S`b]eSZa5`WZZT]`#´[W\cbSabVS\TZW^
and grill until the steak is done to your
ZWYW\U Ž4T]`[SRWc[`O`SOP]cb
"´[W\cbSaB`O\aTS`b]OQcbbW\U
board. Tent with foil, and let rest
T]`OP]cb#´[W\cbSaBVW\Zg
slice the steaks, and transfer
to a platter. Top with some
of the butter and serve,
passing the remaining
butter at the table.
—Diana Andrews
 The sauciest chefs
demand authentic f lavor.
jixiansheng

GOYA® Tomato Sauce.

Real tomato flavor for
Real-Life Chefs.

Shredded
Chicken Tacos
Ingredients
2 cans (8 oz. each) GOYA® Tomato Sauce
2 tsp. GOYA® White Vinegar
2 tsp. GOYA® Minced Garlic
3 ½ tsp. ancho chili powder
1 tsp. GOYA® Ground Cumin
2 tsp. GOYA® Ground Oregano
½ tsp. sugar
GOYA® Adobo with Pepper, to taste
2 tbsp. GOYA® Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 lbs. bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts
12 GOYA® Corn Tortillas

Garnish, optional
Chopped avocados
Coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
Chopped tomatoes

For step-by-step instructions,

visit goya.com/tacos
©2018 Goya Foods, Inc.

GOYA® Tomato Sauce - Spanish-style tomato sauce

made from vine-ripened tomatoes and a secret blend
of spices for that authentic Latin flavor.
M A K E I T TO N I G H T

VEGETARIAN

quinoa bowls with seared halloumi, other side. Drizzle with 2 Tbs. of gently until the quinoa is tender
the oil, and season generously and the water is absorbed, 15 to
roasted tomatoes, and chickpeas with salt and pepper. Place in a 20 minutes. Remove the pan
Halloumi is a tangy, salty cheese with a high melting point, so cold oven, set the oven to 425°F, from the heat.
it can be seared while maintaining a satisfyingly hearty chew. and bake until the tomatoes In a small bowl, combine the
Serves 4 are tender and collapsing and mayonnaise, minced garlic, and
8 large Roma tomatoes, 8 oz. halloumi, cut into ¼-inch-
the chickpeas are crisp, 20 to lemon juice. Add more lemon
quartered lengthwise thick strips, patted dry 25 minutes. juice to taste.
1 15-oz. can chickpeas, ½ cup pitted Kalamata olives Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbs. of the Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. oil in a
drained, rinsed, and ½ cup fresh basil, torn into oil in a medium saucepan over large nonstick skillet over medium-
patted dry bite-size pieces medium heat. Add the onion high heat until shimmering. Add
¼ cup olive oil ½ lemon, cut into wedges and cook, stirring often, until the cheese and fry until golden-
Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper browned, about 7 minutes. Add brown, about 1 minute per side.
Position a rack in the center of
1 cup coarsely chopped the quinoa, chopped garlic, and Divide the quinoa among
the oven. Line a large rimmed
yellow onion ½ tsp. salt, and cook, stirring con- 4 shallow bowls. Arrange the
baking sheet with parchment or
1 cup red quinoa, rinsed stantly, until the garlic is fragrant, cheese, tomatoes, chickpeas,
foil. Arrange the tomatoes cut
3 medium cloves finely 45 seconds. Add 1  2 3 cups water and olives around the quinoa.
chopped garlic, plus 1 tsp. side up on one side of the baking
and bring to a simmer. Cover, re- Sprinkle with the basil. Serve with
minced sheet and the chickpeas on the
duce the heat to low, and simmer a dollop of the aïoli and the lemon
¼ cup mayonnaise
wedges. —Ivy Manning
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more
to taste

26 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    Photograph by Dane Tahima

NOW TRENDING: WOOD FIRE GRILLING
The fastest growing category in grills

W O O D F I R E G R I L L S

AWAR D WI N N I NG, H IG H LY R ESPECTE D,

IT'S TH E PR E M I E R WOOD FI R E G R I LL.

ű9QQFƓTGƔCXQTCVVJGVQWEJQHCDWVVQP
ű5OQMG5GCT4QCUVQT$CMG
ű6GORGTCVWTGEQPVTQNHTQOťFGITGGU
ű#VTWGEQPXGEVKQPQXGPYKVJFQWDNGYCNN
UVCKPNGUUUVGGN
ű/QDKNGCRREQPVTQNHQTVJGWNVKOCVGKP
EQPXGPKGPEG
ű(TGGUVCPFKPI%CTVQT$WKNVKPWPKVUCXCKNCDNG

See more amazing features at www.MemphisGrills.com

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 27
Up your grill game

ADVERTISEMENT
361667513
hickory-smoked
baby back ribs
SERVES 6-8
THE WOOD CHIP SMOKING GRILL GIFT SET
has everything you need to get lip-smackin’ smoky
results while grilling. And these BBQ ribs are the
perfect way to get your grill-smoker party started!
Spice Rub
1 Tbs. kosher salt
1 Tbs. chili powder
2 tsp. granulated garlic
2 tsp. granulated onion
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. ground cumin
Ribs
61/2 lb. baby back pork ribs,
membrane removed
Hickory wood chips
Smoked sea salt, optional
Sauce
2 Tbs. butter
1 medium onion, finely
chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup chili sauce, such as
Heinz
3/4 cup apricot preserves
1/3 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
3 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
2 Tbs. spicy brown mustard
Mix rub ingredients together
in a small bowl. Coat ribs
generously on both sides
with rub.
Empty one full box of hickory
wood chips into smoker box
and place lid on top. Place
smoker box on one side of
gas grill grate and heat grill
for 20 to 30 minutes on High
(450-500°F) until smoke is
present. (For charcoal grill,
Low AND SLOW
YOU DON’T NEED YEARS OF PRACTICE TO
GET THE HANG OF SMOKING. THE COOKING
GIFT SET CO. HAS EVERYTHING YOU NEED
TO GET AUTHENTIC WOOD-SMOKE FLAVOR
WITHOUT ANY FANCY EQUIPMENT.
JUST FOLLOW THE RECIPE (AT LEFT)
AND THESE EASY STEPS (BELOW).
place filled smoker box directly
on heated coals.)
Turn off one gas grill burner.
(If using charcoal, split and
bank coals against two opposite
sides of grill.) Place ribs on grill
opposite smoker box, bone side
down, and reduce temperature
to low. You want the temper-
ature to stay at about 200°F.
Grill/smoke ribs, covered, over
indirect medium-low heat until
fork-tender, 2 to 2-1/2 hours, 1. Fill smoker box with one package of hickory wood
replenishing wood chips as
chips and place cover on top.
needed.
For best results, cook ribs to
an internal temperature of at
least 170°F. Insert a meat
thermometer into thickest
part of meat away from bone.
Meanwhile, make sauce. Melt
butter in medium saucepan
over medium heat. Add onions
and garlic and cook, stirring
often for 3 minutes. Add remain-
ing ingredients, reduce heat and
simmer, stirring often, for about
20 minutes, or until thickened. 2. Place smoker box on one side of gas grill grate,
Brush ribs with some sauce close lid, and heat on High for 20 to 30 minutes,
and cook until sizzling, about until smoke is present.
3 minutes. Flip and brush with
more sauce and cook 3 minutes
more. Flip again and cook for
2 minutes. Transfer to a cutting
board and let rest for 5 minutes.
To serve, cut ribs between bones
into sections.
Optional: Finish with a sprinkle
of smoked sea salt.
wood chip 3. Turn off one burner, arrange ribs on grate, close
smoking lid, and grill, turning occasionally, until tender.
grill gift set
THE EASY-TO-FOLLOW KIT
INCLUDES EVERYTHING
YOU NEED TO INFUSE YOUR
FAVORITE FOOD WITH
MOUTH-WATERING FLAVORS
OF CHERRY, HICKORY, AND
APPLE WOOD SMOKE.
www.cookinggiftset.com
Use promo code
4. Brush ribs with sauce during last 5 to 10 minutes
of grilling.
GRILLGAME to get $5 off.
 On the Menu
THIS ELEGANT MEAL hits all the high points of
summer dining—a tender grilled beef filet, produce
at its peak, and rich seafood—all to enjoy alfresco
on a warm summer night. Since the recipes (see
p. 32) are a snap to prepare, you’ll have plenty of
time to spend with friends and family over dinner.
The meal starts with shrimp, lobster, and avo-
cado tossed in a creamy lime-jalapeño dressing and
served in lettuce-leaf cups. The main course is a
riff on a classic salad. Disks of rare beef tenderloin
slip into the traditional Caprese lineup of juicy
heirloom tomato, mild mozzarella, and peppery
basil. Finally, an easy dessert spotlights fresh fruit
accompanied by a tangy-sweet goat-cheese dip.
Since these dishes are all delicious at room tem-
perature, this menu is perfect to make ahead. That
means more time for you to hang out with family
and friends, enjoying a summer evening.
—Allison Ehri Kreitler

Reverse-Sear Tenderloin
Caprese Platter

M O R E M E N U S TO T R Y

Summer Solstice Brunch

Quinoa Bowls with Seared Halloumi,
Roasted Tomatoes, and Chickpeas p. 26
Spicy Carrot Ribbon Salad FineCooking.com
Lemon Crostata p. 69
To drink: Prosecco
July 4th
Celebration
Marinated Fennel and Bean Salad
with Citrus and Olives p. 54 Dinner on the Deck
Japanese-Style Grilled Corn p. 58 Pork Chops with Cherry Relish p. 64
Grilled Rib-Eye Steaks with Shallot- Three Sisters Salad p. 52
Jalapeño-Tomato Butter p. 24
Strawberry Jam Crostata p. 68
Amaretto-Cherry Semifreddo p. 65
To drink: Cherry lambic
To drink: Nebbiolo

30 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    Photographs above by Dane Tashima, bottom by Mike Yamin; food styling by Heather Meldrom
Lobster, Shrimp, and Avocado Salad Fruit Skewers with Spiced Honey and
with Creamy Lime Dressing Lemon-Vanilla Goat Cheese

Grilled Vegetarian Feast Asian-Inspired Bistro

Zucchini, Ricotta, and Lemon Pinsa p. 46 Korean-Style Grilled Marinated Short Ribs
FineCooking.com
Grilled Radicchio
and Romaine Salad FineCooking.com Spicy Cucumber & Black Bean Salad p. 55
Grilled Peaches with Raspberry Butter Triple Ginger Ice Cream Sandwiches
and Cookie Crumbs FineCooking.com FineCooking.com

To drink: Rosé To drink: Witbier

Casual Sunday Supper

Summer Bourbon-Cherry Fizz p. 62
Pasta with Broccoli, Sun-Dried Tomatoes,
and Olives FineCooking.com
Gianduja, Cherry, and
Hazelnut Pinsa p. 49

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 31
MENUS
reverse-sear tenderloin
caprese platter
This dish is simple, so using the highest-
quality fresh ingredients is paramount
for flavor. For a side dish, grill thick
slices of hearty sourdough bread, and
rub them with the cut side of a clove of
garlic. Serves 10 to 12
2 lb. center-cut beef tenderloin, tied
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
Canola or other neutral oil, as needed
for the grill
3 oz. baby arugula (6 loosely packed cups)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1½ tsp. aged balsamic vinegar
3 medium-large heirloom tomatoes, cut into
twelve 38-inch-thick slices (about 2 lb.)
1½ lb. fresh mozzarella, cut into twelve
38-inch-thick slices
36 large fresh basil leaves
Season the tenderloin all over with ¾ tsp. salt
and ½ tsp. pepper. Put the tenderloin on a
flat rack in a roasting pan, and refrigerate for
at least 1 hour and up to 1 day. Let the tenderloin
come to room temperature for 1 hour before
roasting.
Position a rack in the center of the oven, and
heat the oven to 300°F. Roast the beef until an
instant-read thermometer registers 115°F for
rare or 120°F for medium rare, about 45 min-
utes. Remove the roast from the oven. Let sit,
loosely tented with foil, for up to 2 hours.
Prepare a high (500°F to 600°F) gas or
charcoal grill fire. Clean and then lightly oil the
grill grate. Put the roast on the grill, and sear
on all sides until evenly browned, rotating
often and moving it away from flare-ups as
necessary, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer to
a cutting board, and set aside.
32 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
Put the arugula in a medium bowl. Toss
with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil, the vinegar, ¼ tsp.
salt, and 18 tsp. pepper, and transfer to a
large serving platter. Trim the ends of the ten-
derloin, and cut the beef into twelve ¾-inch-
thick slices.
Arrange alternating slices of tomato, moz-
zarella, and beef on the arugula with a basil leaf
tucked between each slice. Drizzle with the
remaining 3 Tbs. olive oil. Sprinkle with ½ tsp.
salt and several grinds of pepper, and serve.
lobster, shrimp, and avocado
salad with creamy lime dressing
For this salad, use an avocado that
is ripe but still firm enough to hold its
shape when mixed with the dressing
and seafood. Serves 10 to 12
3 Tbs. mayonnaise
3 Tbs. heavy cream
½ tsp. finely grated lime zest
½ tsp. finely chopped, seeded jalapeño
Kosher salt
½ lb. cooked lobster knuckle, claw, and tail
meat, cut into ½-inch pieces
½ lb. peeled, cooked medium-large shrimp
(36 to 40 per lb.), cut into ½-inch pieces
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
leaves
3 Tbs. thinly sliced scallion greens
½ avocado, cut into ½-inch pieces
12 butter lettuce leaves
Lime wedges, for serving
In a medium bowl, whisk the mayonnaise,
cream, zest, jalapeño, and ½ tsp. salt. Use
a large silicone spatula to gently stir in the
lobster, shrimp, and half of the cilantro and
scallions. Gently fold in the avocado. Season
to taste with salt. Arrange the lettuce leaves
on a platter, divide the salad among them,
and sprinkle with the remaining cilantro and
scallions. Serve with the lime wedges.
fruit skewers with spiced honey
and lemon-vanilla goat cheese
The dip for this simple dessert tastes
like cheesecake. Serve it with the best
ripe seasonal fruit you can find. Serves
10 to 12
1 tsp. pumpkin pie spice
1 cup mild honey
1 cup heavy cream
6 oz. fresh goat cheese, softened
5 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
½ tsp. pure vanilla extract
Kosher salt
12 medium strawberries, hulled
6 large figs, halved
2 peaches or nectarines, cut into 1½- to
2-inch pieces
2 bananas, cut into 1½- to 2-inch pieces
1 mango, cut into 1½- to 2-inch pieces
Have ready 12 10-inch wooden skewers.
Toast the pumpkin pie spice in a small
saucepan over low heat until just fragrant and
slightly darkened, about 30 seconds. Using
a fork, stir in the honey and 2 Tbs. water, and
heat until smooth, about 2 minutes. In a small
bowl, use a fork to mash together the cream,
goat cheese, sugar, zest, vanilla, and a pinch
of salt until smooth.
Cut the fruit to yield 60 pieces total.
Thread five alternating pieces of fruit on each
skewer. Put the skewers on a platter, and
drizzle with some of the honey. Serve the dip
and remaining honey on the side.
 Food Science
Ceviche
How acid “cooks”
seafood without heat
B Y D AV I D J O A C H I M A N D
A N D R E W S C H LO S S

What’s ceviche?
Ceviche is raw seafood marinated in acidic fruit
juice. Served throughout Latin America, it’s par-
ticularly popular in Peru, Mexico, and Ecuador.
The seafood used is usually white-flesh fish such
as sole, grouper, flounder, halibut, or red snapper,
although shellfish like shrimp and scallops also
make great ceviche. The acidic fruit juice can vary
from lime juice (the most common) to lemon juice
to passionfruit juice to Seville (bitter) orange juice.
Though the flavor and ingredient variations are
endless, the net effect is the same: The acid in the
juice firms up the raw fish and turns it from trans-
lucent to opaque, making it appear as if the fish has
been cooked.

“Cooking” without heat

Seafood is built from proteins, and citrus juice is
acidic. Acid alters the structure of proteins the
same way that heat does. A protein molecule
maintains its shape due to a balance of electrical
forces that push and pull on its molecular structure.
Acid knocks these forces out of balance. Like all
acids, citrus juices have a net positive charge that
causes protein molecules to change their shape,
or “denature.”
You can watch this happen when you squeeze
citrus juice on raw fish. The translucent flesh gradu-
ally turns opaque and starts to firm up. Over time,
the texture changes from wobbly to compact, in
much the same way that heat transforms fish from
raw to cooked. The main difference is that heat
accomplishes these changes in minutes, whereas
Pineapple-Lime-Ginger
acid can take anywhere from hours to days, Scallop Ceviche (p. 35)
depending on its strength.

Photo by Julia Gartland; food styling by Samantha Seneviratne F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 33

FOOD SCIENCE

Many shades of ceviche

Chile peppers are often included in ceviche, and the dish may
also include salt, soy sauce, and/or various aromatics rang-
ing from alliums, such as red onion, shallots, garlic, and/or
scallions, to fresh herbs like cilantro and mint. In Peru, the
leftover marinade is sometimes mixed with pisco (Peruvian
brandy) to make a cocktail called leche de tigre (tiger’s milk),
which is considered a hangover cure and aphrodisiac. The
term “tiger’s milk” may also refer to a flavor-enhancing broth
made from fish stock that’s added to ceviche to balance the
acidity of the marinade and to deepen the savory umami
flavor. As a shortcut to umami flavor, instead of tiger’s milk,
aji-no-moto (monosodium glutamate) is often added to Peru-
vian ceviches.
Peruvian food is heavily influenced by Japanese Nikkei cui-
sine, and in Peru, some ceviches are closer to sashimi. Called
tiraditos, they emphasize the pure flavor of the raw fish with
shorter marinating times and fewer accompaniments.
Ceviche may also be made with cooked fish. And some
versions include sweet fruit and other surprising ingredients,
such as evaporated milk in
the marinade for a
creamy texture.

Fruit juice pH Different juices, different strengths

The lower the pH, the higher the acidity.
The stronger the pos-
JUICE pH itive charge of an acid,
the more dramatically
:W[S  !#
and swiftly it shows its
:S[]\  $ effects. Acidic strength is
measured in terms of pH. The lower
Cranberry ! $
the pH number, the more acidic the ingredient. Lemon
Wine or cider vinegar "!" and lime juices, the most common acids in ceviche, have a pH between
2.0 and 2.6. Lime juice tops out at 2.35 pH, making it the stronger of the two, on
Meyer lemon # %
par with commercial vinegar. Other acidic juices, like orange, pineapple, or pas-
Seville (bitter) orange $ ' sionfruit, which are often added to ceviche for flavor, have a pH between 3 and
4, so they react more slowly with proteins.
Gchc $ '

Key lime $!

Grapefruit '! Is ceviche safe to eat? 

Ceviche is made from raw fish, so perfringens, Salmonella, and V.
Pomegranate '!
it’s important to use only the fresh- cholerae) can’t survive acidity less
Passionfruit !"& est seafood. Bacteria always exist than 4.5 pH, so they’re effectively
on fish, and the longer fish is stored, destroyed by prolonged exposure
Pineapple !!!$
the more opportunity that bacteria to citrus juice. Parasites are another
Grape juice !!!% has to multiply. The acid of fruit matter, though; most can survive
juice won’t kill as many pathogens acidic environments. The few
Valencia (sweet) orange !$'"!"
as heating raw fish to at least 145°F. fish parasites that are harmful to
Tangerine !%!& However, the most common bacte- humans can be eliminated by flash-
ria found in fish (Listeria, Clostridium freezing, which isn’t possible to do in
Apple !%!'
a home freezer.
Blood orange !%"#

Tomato ""$

Guava # #$

Papaya # #%

Mango #&$

34 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

 E23G671

ACID’S ASSETS
Raw seafood tastes briny like the sea compound released as enzymes and
with various savory and sweet flavors bacteria attack fish after it is killed.
depending on the species. It also Rinsing fish can remove surface TMA,
bears the faint metallic bitterness of but acid goes a step further, causing pineapple-lime-ginger
trace minerals like magnesium, potas- TMA to bind with water and become scallop ceviche
sium, and calcium from sea water. less volatile, so you’re less likely to
Pineapple juice contains an en-
When you marinate raw seafood, it inhale and detect the odor. Acid also
zyme called bromelain that breaks
picks up additional flavors from the neutralizes the source of another
down protein and, as a bonus, has
marinade. In ceviche, the dominant stinky fish odor: pungent-smelling
a tenderizing effect. You can serve
flavor is sour from the citrus juice. The aldehydes. And it helps break down
this dish after 30 minutes or up to
particular pH of the juice used in the two muddy-smelling compounds
3 hours of marinating, but 1½ hours
marinade determines how sour the (geosmin and methylisoborneol) that
is the sweet spot; after 3 hours, the
ceviche tastes. you might have noticed in farm-raised
scallops will become so tender that
The acid also helps the fish to pick fish and bottom feeders, such as
they begin to break apart due to the
up the flavors of other ingredients in catfish, that feed on algae.
tenderizing effect of the pineapple.
the marinade, from chiles to garlic to Between TMA, aldehydes, geos-
Garnish with plantain chips, diced
herbs. As acid unravels the chemical min, and methylisoborneol, the acid
avocado, andor diced pineapple.
bonds between proteins in seafood, it in ceviche is truly a magic ingredient;
Serves 4
also encourages the proteins to bond it just makes fish taste and smell
with other flavor compounds. better. Acid also helps to balance the ½ cup red onion, very thinly sliced
lengthwise
Acid has another particularly use- complete flavor profile of a dish. If a
1 lb. bay scallops or dry sea scallops
ful effect on seafood: It lessens the ceviche is made with oily fish like tuna cut into bite-size pieces
briny smell that some find unpleas- or mackerel, or if it includes a sweet ¾ cup fresh lime juice
ant. That’s one reason why seafood is fruit like mango, the acid cuts through ¼ cup pineapple juice
often accompanied by a squeeze of the fattiness of the fish and mutes 1 fresh red serrano or cayenne pepper,
lemon. One of those fishy aromas is the sweetness of the fruit, helping to sliced crosswise, seeds removed,
trimethylamine (TMA), a foul-smelling create a balance of flavors. if you like
1 medium clove garlic, minced
1 tsp. minced or grated fresh ginger
¼ cup fresh small cilantro leaves
¾ tsp. fine sea salt
1 tsp. orange zest (optional)
The role of salt
In a medium bowl, soak the onion in ice
A little salt in ceviche enhances the flavors and aromas
water for 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.
of whatever is in the marinade and improves the
Rinse the scallops in cold water, drain,
flavor of the fish itself. The use of salt per se
and toss in a medium bowl with the lime
isn’t critical to ceviche—sometimes the
juice and pineapple juice. Cover and mari-
marinade is seasoned with soy sauce or
nate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes or
a broth made with briny seaweed—but
up to 3 hours, stirring occasionally. As time
whatever the vehicle, it makes proteins
passes, the scallops will go from translu-
more soluble in low concentrations. Dis-
cent to opaque, first on the surface and
solved protein in a marinade makes the
then through the center.
liquid look cloudy.
Drain the scallops, reserving the
In higher concentrations, sodium also draws
marinade. Fold the onions into the scallop
moisture from the fish, the same way that acids do,
mixture along with the chile, garlic, ginger,
causing it to gradually dehydrate. That water loss is why fish shrinks slightly in
cilantro, salt, and orange zest (if using). If
ceviche while the amount of liquid in the marinade increases. On the upside,
you want a little more juice in the mixture,
this dehydrating effect helps fish taste fresh longer by inhibiting harmful bacte-
stir in 2 to 3 Tbs. reserved marinade. Let
ria growth, much the same way that salt dehydrates and “cures” meat.
stand at room temperature for 10 min-
Salt also heightens the flavors of aromatic chiles, herbs, onions, and other
utes, then serve in shallow bowls.
seasonings in the marinade. And it helps to suppress bitter flavors.

David Joachim and Andrew Schloss are the authors of the award-winning reference book
The Science of Good Food.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 35
 A River Runs Through It
Cambridge chefs Alex Rushmer and Tristan Welch prepare a feast inspired by
farm, fen, and wild English meadows.
BY NANETTE MAXIM

RECIPES >
Ricotta, Pea, and Pickled
Beet Crostini p. 42
Cured Trout p. 43
Salt-Baked Kohlrabi with
Turnips p. 43

ALONG THE BANKS OF THE BUCOLIC

RIVER CAM in Cambridge, England, there
is a bit of a brain trust, as it’s home to one
of the world’s oldest and most prestigious
universities, the University of Cambridge
(founded in 1209). It’s also an architectural
trust, with treasures like the 19th-century
stone Gothic Revival Church of Our Lady
and the English Martyrs, whose spire gives
the city’s skyline an elegant signature. There’s
also a culinary trust in Cambridge, with
chefs like Alex Rushmer and Tristan Welch,
whose food tastes of the farms and fields
of the surrounding countryside. Host Alex
Thomopoulos joins Rushmer and Welch to
gather produce from a farm where old and
new methods meet, elderflower and wild
chervil come straight from the meadows,
and a luscious botanicals-infused gin comes
straight from the distillery. Cooking up a
very English feast at Parker’s Tavern in the
University Arms Hotel, the chefs and their
guests celebrate it—how else?—on the sto-
ried Cambridge green.

In Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking,

our PBS TV show now in its seventh sea-
son, our hosts travel the world creating
Chefs Alex Rushmer and Tristan Welch join host Alex Thomopoulos feasts with local chefs and artisans in
on a leisurely punt-boat ride down the River Cam. every episode.

38 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    Photographs by John Kernick

The Artisans
Farmer Calixta Killander’s talent for re-
searching and experimenting with unusual
varieties of vegetables and herbs and grow-
ing them as sustainably as possible has made
her Flourish Produce a favorite of Cam-
bridge chefs. Combining very old and very
new agricultural ways—a pair of Comtois (a
French breed) workhorses, old-style cultiva-
tors and plows, and modern sustainability
methods (she studied at Warren Wilson Col-
lege, in North Carolina)—Killander and her
team in Hildersham go gentle on the land
while producing exquisite produce.
“A gin and tonic in hand is the epitome of
Britishness,” says Cambridge Distillery co-
founder William Lowe, who creates a line
of gins based on fresh botanicals that grow
in and around the Cambridge area, as well
as those from Japan (yuzu peel, shiso leaf,
sansho pepper) and Italy’s Piedmont (white
truffle). Lowe is also known as the Gin Tai-
lor, working with clients to create “bespoke”
gins for individual tastes. Chefs like Welch
like to add a splash of Cambridge’s juniper-
forward Dry Gin to a marinade, as he does
with trout for the feast.

Top, left: Farmer Calixta Killander plows the fields

of Flourish farm with workhorses. Top, right:
Killander with just-harvested greens. Center:
Killander and the chefs hand-selecting produce
for the feast. Below, left: Welch and Thomo-
poulos forage for botanicals to be used by the
distillery. Below, center: A bottle of Cambridge
Distillery elderflower liqueur ready for cocktails.
Below, right: Welch and Thomopoulos arrive at
Cambridge Distillery with wide-eyed wonderment.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 39
M OV E A B L E F E A S T W I T H F I N E C O O K I N G
Top: The chefs arrive at Welch’s
Parker’s Tavern with the fresh pro-
duce from their outing. Center, left:
Farm-fresh eggplant and tomatoes
ready to be cooked. Center, right:
Thomopoulos, Rushmer, and Welch
ready to serve the waiting guests.
Below: Chef Rushmer preps one of
his dishes for the feast.
40 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
The Chefs
The produce that farmers bring to Cam-
bridge restaurant Vanderlyle each day
serves as inspiration for chef Alex Rush-
mer’s inventive and ever-changing five-
course menu. Named after a song by rock
band The National, Vanderlyle is the second
restaurant for Rushmer, the 2010 runner-up
on BBC’s MasterChef series. His first, Hole
in the Wall, which he opened with sous chef
Lawrence Butler, was named by the Sunday
Times among the U.K.’s top 100 restaurants.
After seven successful years, the duo closed
Hole in the Wall and took some time out
before launching the smaller Vanderlyle,
open just four days a week to give them-
selves and their staff a more balanced life.
A graduate of Cambridge University who
studied, he says, “the dark arts of politics,”
Rushmer is also a writer—formerly on his
“Just Cook It” blog and now on Vanderlyle’s
website, as well as for the Cambridge Edition.
Chef Tristan Welch’s rebellious wit has
made him a favorite in the BBC’s Great
British Menu, Saturday Kitchen, and The
One Show, and the Good Food channel’s
Market Kitchen. He brings that same spirit to
Cambridge’s University Arms Hotel, where
he mans the stoves at Parker’s Tavern, giving
English classics like game pies and Norfolk
fruits de mer a delicious twist. A Cambridge
native, Welch was once head chef at Pétrus at
the Berkeley for another such creative mis-
chief maker, Gordon Ramsay, as well as doing
stints at l’Arpêge, in Paris, Scotland’s Glenapp
Castle, Kensington’s Launceston Place, and
Mustiques’s Cotton House Beach Café.
The Feast
Chef Welch’s Parker’s Tavern gets its name
from the green space Parker’s Piece that
borders the hotel in which it resides. Once
leased as pastureland by its namesake
Edward Parker, a Trinity College cook, the
green is famous for being the site of historic
football (soccer) and cricket matches, and
a huge feast to celebrate Queen Victoria’s
coronation. Still home to sports and fairs,
the green is, for one afternoon, where a feast
table is being laid.
Inspired by Flourish Produce vegetables,
Alex Rushmer has created two dishes. First,
he has salt-baked kohlrabi to bring out its
sweet flavor, then sliced it thin, along with
earthy turnips, and topped the dish with a
mayonnaise enlivened with turnip leaves.
With spigarello, an ancient type of broc-
coli from Italy, he sautés the vegetable with
garlic and sprinkles it with roasted almonds
and a rich black-olive caramel.
Welch, meanwhile, creates a dish that
tells a story of a trout’s journey along the
River Cam through the land that surrounds
it: The fish is rubbed and marinated in a
“Granchester cure” that includes pineapple
weed, elderflower, wild chervil, wild sorrel,
barley malt molasses, and a splash of gin.
The meadows also inspire Welch’s roasted
duck with a bronze fennel rub. For a starter,
Alex Thomopoulos gives classic English
mushy peas a California spin, with brus-
chetta slathered with a ricotta-Parmigiano
cheese blend then topped with pickled
beets, radish slices, herbs, and very non-
mushy fresh spring peas.
As the warm spring breezes flutter the
bouquets of wildflowers that grace the table
on the green, Alex Rushmer welcomes guests
to a feast that he says with a smile is “what
the farm tastes like at this moment in time.”

Top: Glasses of bubbly being

poured for the feast guests.
Center, left: Thomopoulos and
Rushmer help chef Welch plate one
of his dishes. Right: The guests
gather on the famous green next
to the Cambridge University Arms
Hotel, which is home to Welch’s
Parker’s Tavern.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 41
M OV E A B L E F E A S T W I T H F I N E C O O K I N G
ricotta, pea, and pickled beet crostini
by Alex Thomopoulos Makes 8 crostini
1 cup white-wine vinegar
½ cup granulated sugar
3 medium beets, scrubbed, peeled, and cut
into ¾-inch wedges
1 bay leaf
1 Tbs. whole peppercorns
1 lb. (2 cups) fresh whole-milk ricotta
1½ oz. (½ lightly packed cup) grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Zest of 2 lemons, plus juice of 1 lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
10 oz. frozen peas (about 2 cups)
3 Tbs. olive oil; more for serving
13 packed cup finely chopped mixed fresh
herbs, such as chives, parsley, dill, and
mint, plus whole leaves for garnish
8 slices crusty bread, cut 1 inch thick
2 medium cloves garlic, peeled
3 small radishes, thinly sliced
42 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
Combine the vinegar, sugar, and 2 cups water
in a medium pan. Bring to a boil over high heat,
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the beets,
bay leaf, and peppercorns. Cover and reduce
the heat to maintain a brisk simmer. Cook until
the beets are just tender, about 30 minutes.
Let cool in the liquid; drain before using.
Heat the broiler to high.
In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta,
Parmigiano, and the zest of 1 lemon. Season
to taste with salt and pepper.
Prepare an ice bath. Bring a medium pan
of water to a boil. Salt generously and add the Toast the bread slices under the broiler, flip-
peas. Cook 30 seconds and transfer with a ping once, until charred. While the bread is still
slotted spoon to the ice bath. Drain and pat warm, rub each side lightly with the garlic.
dry. Transfer to a bowl, and dress with the Divide the ricotta mixture among the
olive oil, the zest of 1 lemon, the lemon juice, toasts. Top with the peas, beets, and radishes.
herbs, and salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with the whole herbs, a drizzle of olive
oil, salt, and pepper. Serve.
cured trout
by Tristan Welch Serves 10 to 12
½ cup kosher salt
13 cup mixed chopped fresh herbs, such
as dill, parsley, and chervil
¼ cup granulated sugar
2 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. molasses
2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Zest of 1 lemon
½ cup gin
1 side steel-head trout, skin on (2 to 2½ lb.)
Toast, for serving
Lemon wedges, for serving
In a medium bowl, combine the salt, herbs,
sugar, honey, molasses, pepper, and lemon
zest. Add the gin and stir to combine.
Put the fish skin side down in a pan large
enough to fit the fillet in a single layer. Spread
the salt mixture over the flesh side of the
trout, and cover with plastic wrap. Put a heavy
object, such as a brick or a few cans, into a
smaller pan. Set the smaller pan on top of
the fish to weigh it down, and refrigerate
for 36 hours. At about halfway through the
All recipes adapted from Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking.
curing time, remove the fish from the pan,
turn it over, and replace the plastic wrap and
weighted pan. Return to the refrigerator.
To serve, rinse the trout thoroughly. Pat
dry and thinly slice the flesh across the grain.
Serve with toast and lemon wedges.
salt-baked kohlrabi
with turnips
by Alex Rushmer Serves 6
6¾ oz. (1½ cups) all-purpose flour; more as
needed
½ cup kosher salt; more as needed
2 medium kohlrabi (about 1 lb.), peeled
1 large egg
3 small Japanese or Sweetbell turnips,
thinly sliced, plus 1 cup coarsely chopped
turnips tops, small leaves reserved
¼ cup vegetable oil, such as grapeseed
2 Tbs. white-wine vinegar
1 small clove garlic, finely grated
¼ cup plus 1 Tbs. olive oil; more for serving
Flaky sea salt, for serving
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a large rimmed
baking sheet with parchment and set aside.
Combine the flour and salt in a medium
bowl. Add 23 cup water and mix until a rough
dough forms. Transfer to a flour-dusted work
surface, incorporating more flour as neces-
sary to yield a cohesive and slightly tacky
dough. Cut the dough in half and pat between
your palms to a size large enough to wrap
each kohlrabi. Wrap the kohlrabi and pinch to
seal the dough closed. Place on the prepared
baking sheet. Bake until the crust is light
golden, 45 to 55 minutes. Let cool enough to
handle, then peel off and discard the dough.
Refrigerate to cool completely.
Bring a small pan of water to a boil over
high heat. Add the egg and reduce the heat to
maintain a brisk simmer. Cook for 6 minutes,
then transfer the egg to ice water to cool. Peel.
Put the turnip tops, vegetable oil, vin-
egar, garlic, and egg in a blender. Blend until
smooth. With the motor running, add all the
olive oil in a slow, steady stream until the
mayonnaise is thick and emulsified. Season
to taste with salt.
To serve, thinly slice the kohlrabi on a man-
doline. Arrange the slices on serving plates
and top with turnip slices. Drizzle with the
mayonnaise, and garnish with the reserved
turnip leaves. Finish with olive oil and sea salt.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 43
 Discover
PINSA These grilled flatbreads are the latest evolution of Roman pizza.
T E X T B Y K AT I E P A R L A | R E C I P E S B Y J O H N R E G E F A L K
s a student, I was fascinated by the
A way in which Roman mythology was
taught alongside history. Romu-
lus, the legendary founder of Rome and
offspring of Mars, the Roman god of war,
was documented in the same textbooks that
detailed Julius Caesar’s military triumphs.
After moving to Rome in 2003, I wasn’t
surprised to find myth and history resid-
ing side by side in nearly every facet of life,
especially food. Take, for example, the pinsa
romana. This oblong flatbread was invented
by pizza maker Corrado Di Marco in 2001,
and since first being served at his pizzeria
La Pratolina on a residential tree-lined street
near the Vatican, it has been imbued with an
origin story that dates back two millennia.
Di Marco named his creation pinsa
from the Latin “to beat or press,” referring to
the shaping of the dough. It’s fun to think that
when you cut (Romans serve pizza unsliced)
into a pinsa romana today, you’re connecting
with ancient food, but really, you’re devour-
ing a new pizza style. Google “pinsa,” and
you’ll find lots of unsourced articles echo-
ing the claim that the pinsa romana is the
offspring of ancient pizza. It’s a good story,
but—pardon the expression—it’s a stretch.
P H O T O G R A P H S B Y M I K E YA M I N | F O O D S T Y L I N G B Y H E AT H E R M E L D R O M
44 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
While thick-rimmed Neapolitan pies
dominated the imaginations of Italians and
travelers for the whole of the 20th century,
new flatbreads have been popping up across
the Italian peninsula for the past couple
of decades. Many of them, pinse included,
draw on proprietary flour blends and a long
leavening period intended to create a deeply
flavored and highly digestible final product.
Indeed, Di Marco’s creation uses a blend of
wheat flour, rice flour, and soy flour, which
he says impart flavor and create a light yet
chewy dough. He even sells the flour mix
and oversees an association that certifies
pinse makers to ensure that the quality
of pinse romane remains consistent across
the globe.
Now, home cooks can get into the
action. The recipes on the following
pages, which were developed by former
Roman chef and professor John Regefalk,
are inspired by the pinse Di Marco serves at
La Pratolina. The dough has been adapted
for cooking over an outdoor grill, a tech-
nique that harkens back to the way ancient
Romans baked flatbreads over hot stones or
coals. It rises overnight in the refrigerator,
producing a soft, elastic crumb and thin,
crunchy crust. The cold, slow rise allows a
partial breakdown of the protein and starch
in the dough, promoting both a light texture
and deep flavor.
Measure the dough ingredients with a
scale; weights (especially precise metric
measurements) are much more reliable for
baking recipes than volume measurements.
Use a grill with a lid. It’s easier to maintain
the ideal temperature, and closing the lid
also helps to give the pinsa a better rise, vol-
ume, and lightness. Be sure to have toppings
prepped and ready to go before you start
grilling, as they’re added to the dough right
after the it comes off the grill. I also offer
tips on p. 49 for baking pinse in the oven so
you can enjoy this delicious pizza year-
round. These may not be the flatbreads that
ancient Romans enjoyed, but I’m certain
they’d approve—maybe even the Roman
gods, too.
Katie Parla is a Rome-based food and beverage
writer, culinary guide, cookbook author, and
co-host of the Gola Podcast. John Regefalk works
at the Basque Culinary Center in San Sebastian,
Spain, where he researches and teaches avant-
garde techniques and gastronomic trends.
pinsa romana dough
This recipe is the base dough for the toppings that follow. Prepare the
toppings before you grill the dough. They go on immediately after
the dough comes off the grill. See Test Kitchen (p. 80) for tips on
making gluten-free pinsa dough. Makes 6 pinse (each 10 by 6 inches)

17¾ oz. (500 grams; about 3¾ cups) bread

flour (preferably King Arthur); more dough will tighten up and take on a round
for dusting shape. Repeat with the remaining dough
1¾ oz. (50 grams; ¼ cup plus 1 Tbs. plus pieces. Place the roughly shaped dough
1 tsp.) white rice flour balls on a greased baking sheet. Leave
1 oz. (30 grams; 13 cup plus 1 Tbs.) enough space between the pieces so
soy flour
that they can double their size without
18 oz. (3½ grams; ½ Tbs.) active
dry yeast touching. Sprinkle the dough lightly with
1¾ cups (400 grams) cold filtered bread flour, and cover the baking sheet
water (refrigerator temperature, lightly with plastic wrap. Set aside to
39°F to 41°F)
rise at room temperature until the
1 Tbs. plus ½ tsp. (14 grams) fine
dough has doubled in size,
sea salt
2 to 3 hours.
1 Tbs. (10 grams) extra-virgin olive oil;
more for brushing onto the shaped While the dough is rising, prepare
dough for grilling the pinsa topping of your choice.
Pinsa topping (see pp. 46-49) Set aside.
Vegetable oil or nonstick cooking Well ahead of baking, heat the grill
spray, as needed
to 660°F.
Place one dough ball on a well-floured
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
surface, then sprinkle more flour on top.
dough hook, whisk the bread, rice, and soy
Starting from the center and working
flours, and the yeast. Add 1½ cups of the
toward the edges, work the dough into
water, and knead on low speed until the
an oval by pressing your fingers flat
dough comes together and there is no
into the dough, gently stretching
more dry flour in the bowl, about 3 minutes.
and pulling, until it measures
Add the salt and olive oil, and knead on
approximately 6 inches by 10 inches.
medium speed. While kneading, add the
If the dough springs back, let it rest
remaining ¼ cup water a little at a time.
for a few minutes before trying again.
Once all the water has been absorbed,
Brush one side of the dough with
2 to 3 minutes, increase the speed to
olive oil. Gently lift the dough with
medium high. Knead until the dough is
both hands, fingers spread out flat
smooth, elastic, and shiny, about 10 min-
underneath to prevent tearing.
utes more.
Shake off any excess flour. Position
Transfer the dough to a large bowl lightly
the dough, oiled side down, on
coated with vegetable oil. Cover tightly
the grill grate. Close the lid and
with plastic wrap, and let rise in the refrig-
bake for 30 seconds. Brush the
erator (39°F to 41°F) for 24 hours, or until
unoiled side of the dough with olive oil.
the dough has tripled in size.
Use tongs to carefully release
Turn the dough out onto a lightly
the dough from the grate and flip it over.
floured surface, allowing it to gently
Close the lid and bake for another 30 sec-
release from the bowl. Using a dough
onds. Repeat the flipping every 20 to
scraper or a knife, cut it into 6 equal
30 seconds until both sides are golden-
pieces, weighing around 165 grams
brown with some darker spots, about You can use any type of nongelatinous
(5.8 oz.) each.
TIP

3 minutes. Transfer to a plate with the
Working with one piece at a time, take
hottest side (the one that was just on the
the four corners and fold them into the
grate) facing upward. Add the toppings as
center to attach. Do not flatten. The
directed (see pp. 46-49) and serve.
rice flour, including whole-grain rice
flour. Do not use rice starch in its place.
For the soy flour, you can use standard
or toasted (common in Asian cuisines)
or chickpea flour.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 45
zucchine, ricotta, e limone (zucchini, ricotta, and lemon)
A bit of lemon zest enhances the flavor of seasonal grilled zucchini. Serves 6

3 medium zucchini, cut lengthwise Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) Season to taste with salt and pepper.
into ¼-inch-thick slices (about
1½ lb.) gas or charcoal grill fire. Prepare and grill the Pinsa Romana
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for In a medium bowl, toss the zucchini Dough as directed.
drizzling and olive oil, and season to taste with Divide the ricotta evenly among
Fine sea salt salt. Transfer the zucchini to the grill, the grilled pinse. Lay the zucchini
6 Tbs. fresh mint leaves, torn; more and cook until softened, about 2 min- over the ricotta, distributing evenly.
for garnish utes per side. Return the zucchini Season with pepper, garnish with more
2 Tbs. red wine vinegar to the bowl, toss with the mint and mint, drizzle with olive oil, and serve
2 cups whole-milk ricotta vinegar, and set aside. immediately.
3 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano- In another medium bowl, combine
Reggiano
the ricotta, Parmigiano, and zest.
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest (from
about ½ lemon)
Freshly ground black pepper
Pinsa Romana Dough (see p. 45)

asparagi e prosciutto
(asparagus and prosciutto)
Grilling the asparagus over medium heat creates
a nice char that blends well with the savory
Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serves 6
1 lb. asparagus, trimmed
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more
for drizzling
Sea salt
1 lb. mozzarella, cut into ½-inch cubes,
excess water squeezed out
6 Tbs. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
12 thin slices Prosciutto di Parma, torn
Pinsa Romana Dough (see p. 45)

Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F)

gas or charcoal grill fire.
On a large rimmed baking sheet,
toss the asparagus and olive oil,
and season to taste with salt. Divide the
Transfer the asparagus to the grill, mozzarella evenly
and cook until softened and grill among the grilled
marks appear, about 3 minutes per pinse. Top with the
side. When cool enough to handle, sliced asparagus,
cut diagonally into ¼-inch pieces. distributing evenly, then
Set aside. (Alternatively, position sprinkle with Parmigiano.
a rack in the center of the oven, Fashion each piece of prosciutto
and heat the oven to 425°F. Roast into a rose, and arrange on the
the asparagus until tender, about pinse. Drizzle with olive oil and
8 minutes.) serve immediately.
Prepare and grill the Pinsa
Romana Dough as directed.

46 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   


TIP
stracciatella, pomodoro, e pesto di mandorla
(mozzarella curd, tomato, and almond pesto)
The sweet and acidic tomatoes act as a foil to the creamy stracciatella.
Serves 6
2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more
for drizzling
1 tsp. dried oregano
Fine sea salt
1 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves,
coarsely chopped (about 1 oz.)
¼ cup coarsely chopped, toasted
almonds
2 Tbs. finely grated Parmigiano-
Reggiano
Pinsa Romana Dough (see p. 45)
1½ cups stracciatella cheese
Position a rack in the center of the oven,
and heat the oven to 425°F. In a medium
bowl, toss the tomatoes with 2 Tbs. of
the oil and the oregano. Season with salt.
Prepare all toppings before
grilling the pinse, and have
them at room temperature.
Add any cheese first so that
it melts on the hot dough.
Transfer to a small rimmed baking sheet,
and roast until the tomatoes have soft-
ened and lost a bit of their water, about
10 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the pesto. In a
mortar, combine the basil, almonds, and
a heavy pinch of salt. Add the remaining
3 Tbs. oil a tablespoon at a time and grind
with a pestle until you have a chunky
paste. Stir in the Parmigiano.
Prepare and grill the Pinsa Romana
Dough as directed.
Divide the stracciatella, tomatoes,
and pesto evenly among the pinse. Driz-
zle with olive oil and serve immediately.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 47
pesche, miele, e noci
(peach, honey, and walnut)
Choose firm peaches that will hold up to grilling. Serves 6 to 12
8 firm but ripe peaches, halved and pitted
(about 3 lb.) 4 minutes. Brush the top of the peaches with
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for oil, flip, and grill 4 minutes more. When the
brushing and drizzling peaches are cool enough to handle, slice into
Fine sea salt ¼-inch-thick slices.
Pinsa Romana Dough (see p. 45) Prepare and grill the Pinsa Romana Dough
1¼ cups coarsely chopped toasted walnuts as directed.
(about 5 oz.)
Brush the pinse with olive oil and distribute
¼ cup plus 2 Tbs. honey
the peaches evenly among the pinse. Season
with salt. Sprinkle all over with walnuts and
Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or
drizzle with honey. Serve immediately.
charcoal grill fire.
Brush the cut sides of the peaches with
olive oil, season lightly with salt, and place cut
side down on the grate of a grill over medium
heat. Cook until grill marks appear, about

This dough cooks over high heat.

TIP

While grilling the pinse, flip the

dough every 20 to 30 seconds to
keep it from burning.

48 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

 Pinsa in the oven
To bake in the oven with a pizza
stone, position a rack in the
center of the oven, and put a
pizza stone on the rack. At least
45 minutes before baking, heat
the oven to 550°F. Transfer
the shaped dough to a floured
pizza peel. Brush all over with
olive oil. Carefully transfer the
dough onto the heated stone.
After 2 minutes, check that the
dough is baking evenly. If not,
spin it 180 degrees. Continue
baking until golden-brown with
a few dark spots, 2 to 4 minutes.
Remove the dough from the
oven and add toppings (see
p. 46-49), then return to the
oven and continue baking until
the toppings are heated through
and any cheese has melted, 2 to
3 minutes more.

gianduja, ciliegie, e nocciole

(gianduja, cherry, and hazelnut)
Gianduja is a sweet chocolate and hazelnut spread that
pairs naturally with tart, boozy cherries. Sprinkle with
hazelnuts to kick up the gianduja’s nuttiness. Serves 6 to 12

1 lb. pitted cherries, fresh or ries, vermouth, and brown sugar,

thawed frozen
¼ cup sweet vermouth
2 Tbs. light brown sugar
Pinsa Romana Dough
(see p. 45)
1½ cups gianduja or chocolate-
hazelnut spread
1 cup coarsely chopped toasted
hazelnuts
Position a rack in the center of the
oven, and heat the oven to 400°F. In
a medium bowl, combine the cher-
and stir to coat. Distribute evenly on
a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast,
shaking the pan occasionally, until
the cherries begin to shrivel and
darken slightly, 25 to 30 minutes.
Prepare and grill the Pinsa
Romana Dough as directed.
Divide the gianduja evenly among
the pinse. Distribute the cherries
evenly among the pinse, sprinkle
with the hazelnuts, and serve
immediately.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 49
 COOL

Bean
Salads
Fresh and satisfying, these four
salads can take center stage or play
a supporting role in summer menus.
R E C I P E S B Y H E AT H E R M E L D R O M

It’s pretty safe to say that one of the best things about sum-
mer is salads. Here, we’re bringing you four delicious twists
from recipe developer Heather Meldrom. They all feature
legumes—chickpeas, black beans, cranberry beans, and
black-eyed peas—and are full of fresh ingredients, vibrant
flavors, and interesting textures, which easily elevates them
to star status. Enjoy them on the their own, or pair with grilled
chicken, fish, steaks, or burgers. Either way, these salads are
certain to satisfy everyone at the table.

P H O T O G R A P H S B Y M I K E YA M I N

F O O D S T Y L I N G B Y H E AT H E R M E L D R O M

50 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

chickpeas and cauliflower with
curry vinaigrette and spiced yogurt
Hearty chickpeas make for a filling dish. Substitute fava or
cannellini beans, if you like. Wonderful on its own, this salad
also makes a great accompaniment to lamb kebabs or
köfte, grilled fish, or roast chicken. Serves 4 to 6
FOR THE BEANS
8 oz. dried chickpeas, sorted
and rinsed (about 1 cup)
Kosher salt
FOR THE SPICED YOGURT
1 cup (8 oz.) full-fat
Greek yogurt
1 tsp. ground coriander
½ tsp. ground cumin
Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper
FOR THE DRESSING
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1½ tsp. honey
13 cup golden raisins (1½ oz.)
1 tsp. curry powder, mild
or hot
Kosher salt
¼ cup olive oil
FOR THE SALAD
1 small head cauliflower
(1½ lb.), trimmed and
cut into bite-size pieces
(about 3½ cups)
2 Tbs. olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped toasted
almonds (about 1 oz.)
½ cup fresh mint leaves
MAKE THE BEANS
Put the chickpeas in a medium
pot, and cover with cold water
by 2 inches. Cover the pot, and
soak the beans for 6 hours or
overnight in the refrigerator.
Uncover, bring to a boil over
medium-high heat, skim off
any foam, and then reduce
the heat. Simmer, stirring
occasionally, until the beans
are tender and creamy but
still retain their shape, 1½ to
2 hours. Remove from the heat,
and season with 2½ tsp. salt.
Let the beans cool to room
temperature in their liquid.
MAKE THE SPICED YOGURT
In a medium bowl, combine
the yogurt, coriander, cumin,
½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper.
Cover and refrigerate until
ready to use.
MAKE THE DRESSING
In a small bowl, whisk the lemon
juice and honey. Add the raisins
and let soak for 15 minutes.
Remove the raisins with a slot-
ted spoon and reserve. To the
remaining liquid, add the curry
powder and ½ tsp. salt. Whisk-
ing constantly, add the olive oil
in a slow, steady stream.
MAKE THE SALAD
Position a rack in the center of
the oven, and heat the oven to
425°F. On a large rimmed bak-
ing sheet, toss the cauliflower
with the olive oil, ½ tsp. salt,
and ½ tsp. pepper. Roast, stir-
ring once, until golden-brown
and tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Transfer the cauliflower and
any browned bits on the pan to
a large bowl.
Drain the chickpeas, then
transfer to the bowl with the
cauliflower. Add the dressing
and toss to combine.
Spread the yogurt evenly on
the bottom of a large serving
platter. Spoon the cauliflower
mixture on top of the yogurt,
and top with the raisins,
almonds, and mint leaves.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 51
three sisters salad
“Three sisters” refers to the combination of corn, beans,
and winter squash, key crops of indigenous Americans. This
salad inspired by the three sisters uses peak summer zucchini
instead of winter squash. Lima or canary beans can substi-
tute for the black-eyed peas. Serves 4 to 6

FOR THE BEANS MAKE THE BEANS

8 oz. dried black-eyed peas Put the black-eyed peas in a
(about 1 cup), sorted and medium pot, and cover with cold
rinsed
water by 2 inches. Cover the pot,
1 small onion (about 4 oz.),
peeled and halved and soak the beans for 6 hours
2 medium cloves garlic, peeled or overnight in the refrigerator.
and smashed Uncover and add the onion, gar-
1 small sprig fresh marjoram lic, and marjoram. Bring to a boil
or oregano
over medium-high heat, skim off
Kosher salt
any foam, and then reduce the
heat. Simmer, stirring occasion-
FOR THE DRESSING
ally, until the beans are tender
2 Tbs. white-wine vinegar
and creamy but still retain their
1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
shape, about 1 hour. Remove
1½ tsp. pure maple syrup or
honey from the heat, and discard the
¼ cup olive oil onion, garlic, and marjoram.
1 Tbs. minced jalapeño Season liberally with salt. Let the
Kosher salt and freshly beans cool to room temperature
ground black pepper in their liquid.

FOR THE SALAD MAKE THE DRESSING

3 ears corn, kernels removed In a medium bowl, whisk the vin-
from the cobs (about egar, mustard, and maple syrup.
2¼ cups)
While whisking, add the oil in a
3 medium scallions, white and
green parts separated and slow, steady stream. Stir in the
thinly sliced (about ¾ cup jalapeño, ¼ tsp. salt, and a pinch
greens and ¼ cup whites) of pepper.
2 to 3 slender zucchini (about
1 lb.), cut crosswise into MAKE THE SALAD
¼-inch-thick slices and slices Heat a medium skillet over high
halved
heat, and add the corn. Cook for
½ cup torn fresh basil leaves
2 minutes (the corn may pop).
¼ cup fresh marjoram or
oregano leaves Add the scallion whites, stir, and
Kosher salt and freshly cook 1 minute more. Transfer
ground black pepper the corn mixture to a large bowl.
Drain the beans, and add to
the bowl with the corn. Add the
zucchini and dressing, and stir
to combine. Stir in three-fourths
of the basil and marjoram, ½ tsp.
salt, and a few grinds of pepper.
When ready to serve, top with the
scallion greens and the remaining
basil and marjoram.

52 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

Quick-cooking beans

Electric pressure cookers, such as the

Instant Pot, are perfect for cooking dried
beans to a creamy yet firm-to-the-bite
consistency in about 30 minutes. Here’s
how to do it.
Put 1 lb. beans, ½ tsp. salt, and 6 cups
of water in the inner pot. Close and lock
the lid. Set the valve on the lid to sealing.
Select the pressure cook function with
high pressure. Set the time to 25 minutes
for black, pinto, and navy beans; and
35 minutes for chickpeas and kidney,
Great Northern, and cranberry beans.
When the cooking cycle ends, press can-
cel. Allow the appliance to cool and release
pressure naturally, about 30 minutes.
Remove the lid. Wearing oven mitts,
remove the inner pot. Drain the beans
through a colander, and then rinse with
cold water before storing or using them.
The beans will keep in an airtight con-
tainer in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 53
marinated fennel and bean salad with citrus and olives
The creamy texture of cranberry beans is a great complement to crunchy, thinly sliced fennel and rich, briny olives. Canary beans
or classic French flageolet beans make great substitutes. The salad pairs well with duck breast, firm white fish, or a poached egg.
Serves 4
FOR THE BEANS
8 oz. dried cranberry beans (about 1 cup),
sorted and rinsed
1 small yellow onion, peeled and halved
1 medium carrot, cut into large pieces
1 medium rib celery, cut into large pieces
1 sprig fresh thyme
Kosher salt
FOR THE SALAD
½ cup pitted Castelvetrano olives (2½ oz.)
¼ cup olive oil
1 large orange (about 10 oz.), zest removed
in 6 wide strips, flesh cut into segments,
juice squeezed from the membrane
2 sprigs fresh thyme
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 medium bulb fennel (about 14 oz.), core
removed, thinly sliced lengthwise, fronds
reserved
54 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice MAKE THE SALAD
Flaky sea salt In a small saucepan, warm the olives, oil, zest,
Freshly ground black pepper thyme, and pepper flakes over low heat for
5 minutes. Set aside.
MAKE THE BEANS
Drain the beans. Transfer to a large serving
Put the beans in a medium pot, and cover with
platter, add the fennel, and spoon the orange
cold water by 2 inches. Cover the pot, and
and lemon juices over the beans. Season with
soak the beans for 6 hours or overnight in the
a pinch each of salt and pepper.
refrigerator. Uncover and add the onion, car-
Remove and discard the zest and thyme
rot, celery, and thyme. Bring to a boil over
from the olive mixture. Spoon the olives over
medium-high heat, skim off any foam, and
the beans. Add the orange segments, and let
then reduce the heat. Simmer, stirring
sit for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pep-
occasionally, until the beans are tender
per, sprinkle with the reserved fennel fronds,
and creamy but still hold their shape, about
and then serve.
2 hours. Remove from the heat, and discard
the onion, carrot, celery, and thyme. Season
the beans with 1½ Tbs. salt. Let the beans cool
to room temperature in their cooking liquid.
spicy cucumber and black bean salad
This salad with bold Asian flavors is perfect with black beans but works with other hearty beans, such as kidney, red, or even
pinto beans. Serve with shrimp, pork chops, or skirt or hanger steak. Serves 4 to 6
FOR THE BEANS Freshly ground black pepper MAKE THE DRESSING
8 oz. dried black beans (about 1 cup), sorted 1 Tbs. chili garlic sauce; more to taste In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, sugar, and
and rinsed ½ cup Fried Shallots (see Test Kitchen, p. 78) sesame oil.
1 small onion (about 4 oz.), peeled and 13 cup roasted salted peanuts, coarsely
halved chopped MAKE AND SERVE THE SALAD
3 medium cloves garlic, smashed and peeled Fresh cilantro leaves (optional) In a colander set over a large bowl, toss the
Kosher salt cucumber with 1 tsp. salt. Let sit for 10 min-
MAKE THE BEANS utes. Discard any liquid. Transfer the cucum-
FOR THE DRESSING
Put the black beans in a medium pot, and ber to a small bowl and add the carrot.
¼ cup rice-wine vinegar
cover with cold water by 2 inches. Cover Drain the beans. Transfer the beans to a
2 Tbs. granulated sugar
the pot, and soak the beans for 6 hours or large bowl and stir in the rice. Spoon ¼ cup of
2 Tbs. sesame oil; more for serving
overnight in the refrigerator. Uncover and the dressing over the rice and beans, and stir to
FOR THE SALAD add the onion and garlic. Bring to a boil over combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
1 English cucumber (about 15 oz.), cut into medium-high heat, skim any foam from the Transfer the rice and beans to a serving platter.
¾-inch-thick slices, slices quartered surface, then reduce the heat. Simmer, stir- Stir the chili sauce into the remaining
(about 2¾ cups)
ring occasionally, until the beans are tender dressing, and pour over the cucumber and
Kosher salt
and creamy but still retain their shape, about carrot. Toss to combine. Spoon the veg-
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into small
dice (about 1 cup) 70 minutes. Remove from the heat, and dis- etables over the rice and beans. Top with the
2 cups cooked, cooled long-grain white card the onion and garlic. Season the beans shallots, peanuts, and cilantro, if using.
rice (about 9 oz.) with 1 Tbs. salt. Let the beans cool to room
temperature in their liquid.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 55
 Supper
from the Grill
Enjoy the great outdoors with mains
and sides all cooked over the fire.
B Y LY N N E C U R R Y
I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y D A H L TAY L O R
I’M A COOKBOOK WRITER AND FORMER CHEF
who also runs cooking workshops and classes. One of
my most popular offerings is a grilling party in which I
cook a whole meal on the grill. I prep everything ahead,
and as I work, I invite people to jump in wherever they
want. The whole class takes place outside in beautiful,
rugged eastern Oregon, where I live. In this setting,
everyone is relaxed and sociable. I can almost guarantee
that if you were to cook an entire meal on the grill for
friends or family, you would feel the same vibe. Good
news: You can, and I’ve made it easy for you by creating
two menus that guide you through the process.
The recipes that follow are long and may look like a lot,
but keep in mind that each recipe is actually three or four
dishes, including the main and the sides. The challenge
to cooking this way is coordinating the different cooking
times on a single grill. The key is starting with foods that
56 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
taste as good warm as they do hot. To that end, I cook
dishes in sequence and serve the meal all at once.
You’ll need just a few tools to successfully cook this
way; most, such as tongs, you already have. The one tool
you may need to acquire is a grill pan or basket to keep
small vegetables from falling through the grill grate. I use
one that looks like a perforated metal sheet, but any kind
will work. Also, I created these menus for gas grills, but
charcoal- and wood-fired grills work, too.
One final note: To stay chill while you grill, I recom-
mend making the sauces and marinades well in advance.
Also, keep a cool beverage within easy reach. By the
time dinner rolls around, all you need to do is light the
grill, cook the meal, and enjoy your feast in summer air.
Lynne Curry is a food writer and the author of the grass-fed
beef cookbook Pure Beef.
 classic steak menu
This Italian-inspired meal
features these dishes:
ΠGrilled Garlic Ciabatta
ΠCharred Radicchio with
Grilled Lemon and Shaved
Parmesan
ΠGrilled Green Beans
and New Potatoes
ΠGrilled Steak with
Garlic-Herb Butter
FOR THE GARLIC-BUTTER CIABATTA
6 medium cloves garlic, peeled
1 lightly packed cup fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup thinly sliced fresh chives (optional)
8 oz. (16 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
Kosher salt
1 loaf ciabatta, sliced in half lengthwise
FOR THE RADICCHIO SALAD
2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved thinly
with a vegetable peeler (about ¾ cup)
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 anchovy fillets, rinsed
2 Tbs. mayonnaise
1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
2 large lemons
2 heads radicchio (9 to 10 oz. each), cut
through the core into sixths
FOR THE BEANS AND POTATOES
1¼ lb. new red or gold potatoes, halved
1 lb. green beans, stemmed and cut in half
crosswise
Serves 6 to 8
4 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2½ tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
1 tsp. red wine vinegar
FOR THE STEAK
2¼ lb. London broil or top round steak (1¼ to
1½ inches thick)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
PREPARE THE CIABATTA
Combine the garlic, parsley, and chives, if
using, in a food processor. Pulse until finely
chopped, then add the butter, vinegar, pep-
per flakes, and ½ tsp. salt. Process until
smooth. (You can make the butter up to
2 days ahead; store in an airtight container in
the refrigerator.)
Set aside ¼ cup of the herb butter for
the steak and 1 cup for the bread. Save the
remainder for another use.
PREPARE THE RADICCHIO SALAD
Using a stand blender or an immersion
blender, combine ¼ cup of the cheese, the
oil, anchovies, mayonnaise, garlic, ¼ tsp. salt,
and 18 tsp. pepper. Add the zest and juice of
one of the lemons, then blend until smooth,
about 1½ minutes. Season to taste with more
salt and pepper. (The dressing can be made
up to 2 days ahead; store in the refrigerator
in an airtight container.) Slice the second
lemon crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices, and
reserve for grilling.
PREPARE THE BEANS AND POTATOES
Put the potatoes in one medium bowl and the
beans in another. Add 2 tsp. of the olive oil to
each bowl, then season each with 1 tsp. of the
rosemary, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Toss
well and set aside.
PREPARE THE STEAK
Pat the steak dry. Season well with salt
and pepper.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 57
 GRILL THE MEAL
Prepare a high (500°F to 600°F)
gas or charcoal grill fire with the
lid closed. Place a perforated
grill basket on one side of the
grate to heat.
Arrange the reserved
lemon slices over the open
grate. Grill, flipping once,
until nicely browned
with grill marks, about
10 minutes total.
Meanwhile, scat-
ter the potatoes
in the grill basket
in a single layer.
Grill, turning
several times,
until just fork-tender
and beginning to brown, 15 to
17 minutes. Transfer back to the
bowl, sprinkle with the vinegar, and cover with
foil to keep warm.
Grill the green beans in the grill basket,
turning once or twice, until shriveled and
crisp-tender, 12 to 13 minutes. Add the beans
and the remaining ½ tsp. rosemary to the
bowl with the potatoes. Toss the green
beans and potatoes, and then transfer to a
serving bowl.
Meanwhile, grill the radicchio directly over
the open grate until the edges of the leaves
are scorched, about 4 minutes. Flip and
briefly cook the second side until lightly
scorched, about 2 minutes. Arrange the
radicchio on a serving platter, and set aside.
Remove the grill basket from the grate.
Scrape the grate clean. Grill the steak,
flipping once, until cooked to your liking, 6 to
7 minutes per side for medium rare (130°F).
Transfer to a cutting board, top with the ¼ cup
herb butter, and tent with foil.
Grill the ciabatta cut side down until
browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a large
rimmed baking sheet, and spread the cut
sides with the 1 cup herb butter. Return to
the grill buttered side up, and grill until the
butter is melted, about 1 minute more. Trans-
fer to a cutting board, slice, and place on a
serving plate.
Drizzle the radicchio with the dressing,
sprinkle on the remaining shaved Parmigiano,
and top with the grilled lemon slices.
Slice the steak about ½ inch thick. Transfer
to a platter, spooning the collected butter
and meat juices over the steak. Serve with the
salad, beans, potatoes, and bread.

japanese-style
salmon menu Serves 6 to 8

Inspired by the tradition

of mixed-grill meals in
Japan, this menu features
these dishes:

ΠMiso-Grilled Summer
Squash with Black
Sesame Salt
ΠSesame Asparagus with
Quick-Pickled Radish
ΠCitrus-Marinated
Grilled Salmon
ΠJapanese-Style
Grilled Corn

58 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

FOR THE SQUASH
2½ lb. mixed summer squash, including
pattypans, zucchini, and summer squash
2 tsp. sesame seeds, preferably black
1 tsp. flaky sea salt
1½ oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
2 Tbs. white miso
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil

FOR THE RADISHES AND ASPARAGUS

4 radishes, trimmed and very thinly sliced
3 Tbs. rice vinegar
Kosher salt
2 lb. asparagus, trimmed
2 Tbs. toasted sesame oil; more for serving
2 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 serrano chile, seeded and finely chopped

FOR THE CORN

4 large ears corn
3 Tbs. soy sauce or tamari
2 Tbs. mirin

FOR THE SALMON

2 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. grated fresh ginger
1 cup ponzu sauce
1 orange, zested and juiced
1 lemon, zested and juiced
4 6- to 8-oz. skin-on salmon fillets
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
Vegetable oil, for the grill
Thinly sliced scallion greens, for garnish
PREPARE THE SQUASH
Cut the squash into 1½-inch chunks.
Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over
medium-low heat until fragrant, about 30 sec-
onds. Transfer to a small dish, and combine
with the salt.
Mash the butter with the miso in a large
bowl until smooth. Add the sesame oil, and
stir. Add the squash and toss to coat.
PREPARE THE RADISHES AND ASPARAGUS
Put the radishes in a small bowl. Add the vin-
egar, a pinch of salt, and 1 Tbs. water. Soak for
15 minutes. Put a colander over a small bowl.
Drain the radishes, and reserve the liquid
(you’ll use it in the salmon marinade).
Toss the asparagus with the sesame oil,
garlic, chile, and 1 tsp. salt.
PREPARE THE SALMON
Whisk the reserved radish pickling liquid with
the honey and ginger. Add the ponzu sauce,
citrus zests, and citrus juices, and stir well.
Arrange the salmon in a single layer in a
baking dish skin side down. Season the salmon
with salt and pepper. Stir the marinade well,
and then pour ¾ cup over the salmon. Reserve
the remaining marinade for the glaze. Marinate
the salmon for at least 20 minutes but no
longer than 1 hour, turning once. Remove the
salmon from the marinade (discard the mari-
nade), pat dry with paper towels, and arrange
on a rimmed baking sheet.
Meanwhile, simmer the remaining mari-
nade in a small saucepan over medium-low
heat until syrupy, about 4 minutes.
PREPARE THE CORN
Shuck the corn and cut it into 2-inch-tall
rounds. Combine the soy sauce and mirin
in a small bowl.
GRILL THE MEAL
Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or
charcoal grill fire with the lid closed. Put a grill
pan on one side of the grate to heat.
Cook the squash on the grill pan, turn-
ing several times until browned and tender,
about 15 minutes. Transfer to a serving
platter, and sprinkle with 1 tsp. of the sesame
salt; reserve the remainder.
Put the asparagus in the grill pan. Grill, toss-
ing once or twice, until crisp-tender, about
10 minutes. Transfer to a platter, top with the
radishes, and drizzle with sesame oil to taste.
Remove the grill pan from the grate.
Arrange the corn cut side up over the open
grate. Brush with the soy sauce-mirin mixture,
and grill for 5 minutes. Flip the corn, brush
the other side with the mixture, and grill until
lightly browned, about 5 minutes more. Trans-
fer to a serving platter.
Scrape the grate clean, and close the cover
to reheat. Lightly oil the grill. Add the salmon
skin side down, and grill with the lid closed,
about 10 minutes. There is no need to flip the
fish; you want the skin to get nice and crisp.
Transfer the salmon to a serving platter.
Spoon the reserved glaze over the salmon,
and sprinkle with the scallion greens. Serve
with the asparagus, squash, and corn, passing
the remaining sesame salt at the table.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 59
 Now’s the time to enjoy this sweet, tart fruit in all its glory.
BY IAN KNAUER AND SHELLEY WISEMAN

Plump and juicy, cherries—from sweet carry Bing (dark red) and Rainier (pink-
to sour, deep red to golden yellow—are yellow) cherries, sour cherries (bright red)
one of the best things about summer. are harder to find. The quintessential pie
Since their season is far too short cherry, they have a very short season
(depending on where you live, around the middle of June. Look for
roughly from May to August), them at farmers’ markets. Cherries
now’s the time to enjoy fresh don’t continue to ripen once picked,
cherries to their fullest, and so always look for deep color—pale
we mean beyond eating them cherries aren’t ripe.
out of hand, as glorious as
that is. Fresh cherries are Cherry jubilee
amazing baked into crumbles, In general, sweet cherries lose
cakes, and, of course, pies. much of their sweetness and
They also provide a splash of fruitiness when cooked, so we
sweet-tart flavor to many sa- prefer to use them in raw prepara-
vory dishes. Our recipes and tips tions. Sour cherries, on the other
on the following pages may just hand, keep their pucker and brightness
lead you down a whole new cherry- when cooked, which is why most cherry
loving path. pies use sour cherries. Sweet varieties, such
as Bing, Rainier, Black Russian, or Jubilee,
The cherry tree are best in fruit salads, sorbets, ice creams,
If you’re lucky enough to live near a cherry smoothies, and salsas. Sour cherries, such as
orchard, picking your own is easy. When longer freshness. When choosing already- Morello or Richmond, are perfect for pies,
picking fresh cherries, pull on the stem, not picked cherries, look for firm, shiny skins tarts, and chutneys.
the cherry. That makes for less bruising and with green stems. While most supermarkets

P H O T O G R A P H S B Y M I K E Y A M I N | F O O D S T Y L I N G B Y H E AT H E R M E L D R O M

60 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

Cherry-pitting tools
There are lots of ways to pit a cherry, and if you cook with cherries often, it’s worth buy-
ing a dedicated cherry-pitting tool. But you can also improvise with objects that may
already be in your home.
BUY A PITTER
If you’re the sort of
cook who eagerly
awaits the arrival of
the first cherries of
the season, you’re
probably in the mar-
ket for a cherry pitter,
if you don’t already
have one.
Cherry pitters come
in two basic styles. A
hand-held cherry
pitter handles one
cherry at a time. A
plunger efficiently
presses through the cherry to
push out the pit. Some newer
styles have splatter guards to
reduce the spray of cherry
juice as the pit exits the fruit.
If you don’t have a pitter with a
splatter guard, pit cherries in a
disposable produce bag.
The second common pitter
is a hopper-style device. Load
the cherries in the
hopper, let
them roll under
the plunger, and
expel the pits
into the container
below.
Cherries in the bank
If you aren’t planning to eat cherries the day
you buy them, store them in the fridge in a
plastic bag or sealed container with a paper
towel to absorb excess moisture. They’ll last
for five to seven days.
If you can’t consume or use cherries in
that time frame, remember that they freeze
well. First, wash the cherries with their
stems on. Then dry and pit them (see side-
bar above). Next, lay a sheet of parchment
or waxed paper on a large rimmed baking
sheet or tray that will fit in your freezer.
OR IMPROVISE
If you don’t pit enough
cherries to invest in a
cherry-pitting tool, you can
use any number of everyday
kitchen utensils to remove
seeds from cherries. Wooden
skewers, reusable drinking
straws, chopsticks, and
pastry tips all require the
same basic technique: Push
the tool into the stem end of
the cherry, and press the pit out
the other side.
You can also use a paper clip
to pit cherries. Unbend a clip into
an “S” shape. Work one end of
the clip down into the stem end
of a cherry until you can hook
under and pull out the pit.
Arrange a single layer of cherries on the
baking sheet. Put in the freezer until the
cherries are frozen solid, at least 2 hours.
Store the cherries in a freezer-safe resealable
container; freezer-weight zip-top bags are
great for this job. Frozen cherries are good
for up to a year.
Chefs and former food editors Ian Knauer and
Shelley Wiseman are co-owners of The Farm
Cooking School in Titusville, N.J. They are also
the authors of the cookbook The Farm Cooking
School: Techniques & Recipes That Celebrate
the Seasons, as well as fresh-cherry lovers.
A cordial
and a syrup
One of our favorite ways
to preserve the fresh flavor
of cherries is to make a
CORDIAL. Purée pitted
cherries in a blender, cover
with vodka, and soak for a
week. Strain and add simple
syrup to taste. The cordial
has an intense cherry flavor
and is great served in small
amounts over ice with a
squeeze of lemon. Or try it
with a splash of whiskey or
bourbon, or topped with
chilled Prosecco or another
type of bubbly.
We also like making CHERRY
SYRUP, which has two great
uses: The syrup goes
in drinks, and
the cherries
are used for
garnish.
Bring pitted
cherries to a
simmer with
sugar (about
1 cup per lb.) and
a little bourbon, and
cook gently until the sugar
is dissolved and the liquid is
syrupy, about 10 minutes.
You want the cherries to be
tender but whole. Cool the
cherries in the syrup, then
store them in the syrup in
the fridge. They will keep for
at least a month.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 61
summer bourbon-cherry fizz
The raisiny flavor of an ancho chile gives a lovely base note to this drink, bringing together the cherries and the bourbon.
The addition of the vitamin C tablet keeps the cherry juice brighter in color, but feel free to omit it if you don’t have one
on hand. Serves 8
FOR THE CHERRY PURÉE
1 dried ancho chile (about ½ oz.)
10 oz. sweet red cherries, stemmed and
pitted (about 2 cups)
13 cup fresh lime juice (from about 2 limes)
1 500-mg unflavored vitamin C tablet,
crushed to a powder with back of a spoon,
or ¼ tsp. ascorbic acid (optional)
FOR SERVING
2 cups bourbon
½ cup kirsch
2 12-oz. bottles black cherry soda
8 cherries with stems, for garnish
62 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
MAKE THE CHERRY PURÉE
Stem and seed the chile, and soak it in
1½ cups cold water to cover in a small bowl
until softened, about 20 minutes.
Coarsely chop the soaked chile, and put
in a blender with ½ cup of the soaking water,
the cherries, lime juice, and vitamin C tablet,
if using. Blend until the cherries liquefy and
the chile is blended, about 30 seconds. Pour
the liquid into a fine-mesh strainer set over a
2-cup liquid measure. Press hard on the sol-
ids with the back of a spoon, and then discard
them. (The purée can be made up to 1 day
ahead and stored in an airtight container in
the refrigerator.)
MAKE THE DRINKS
Fill a tall 12- to 14-oz. glass with ice, and add
¼ cup of the bourbon, ¼ cup of the cherry
purée, and 1 Tbs. of the kirsch. Top with about
3 oz. (about 13 cup) of the soda, and stir to
combine. Garnish with a cherry, and serve.
TO MAKE A PITCHER
In a pitcher, stir together the cherry purée,
bourbon, and kirsch. Refrigerate if not serving
right away. Add the soda just before serving.
Divide among eight tall 12- to 14-oz. glasses
filled with ice. Garnish each with a cherry
and serve.
sour cherry persian rice
Steaming makes the rice fluffy, but
searing creates the crisp crust on the
bottom of the pan. Known as the tahdig,
it’s a signature component of Persian
rice. Note: If you can’t find fresh or fro-
zen sour cherries, use jarred sour cher-
ries that are drained, rinsed, and patted
dry with a paper towel. Serves 4 to 6
1½ cups basmati rice
Kosher salt
3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, diced (about
1¼ cups)
1 lb. fresh sour cherries, pitted and coarsely
chopped
1 Tbs. ground coriander
¼ cup coarsely chopped toasted pecans,
for garnish
Rinse the rice in several changes of cold water
until the water runs clear. Bring a large pot of
well-salted water to a boil. Add the rice, and
boil until al dente, about 4 minutes. Drain the
rice in a fine-mesh strainer, and then transfer
to a medium bowl.
In a medium Dutch oven or other heavy-
duty pot, melt 1 Tbs. of the butter over
medium heat. Add the onion and ½ tsp. salt,

and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden,
about 6 minutes. Stir in the cherries and cori-
ander. Add to the bowl with the rice, and toss
to combine. Wipe out the pot.
Over medium heat, melt 4 Tbs. of the but-
ter in the pot. Spread the rice in the pot in a
flat, even layer, and pat down lightly. Using the
handle of a wooden spoon, make 5 or 6 holes
in the rice. Put bits of the remaining 1 Tbs.
butter in the holes. Cook the rice, uncovered
and without stirring, for 6 minutes. Reduce
the heat to low. Cover the pot with a cloth
and then the lid; fold the cloth corners up
and over the lid. Cook until the rice is tender,
about 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the
heat and let stand for 10 minutes.
Fluff the rice with a fork, and transfer to
a serving bowl. Use a spatula to remove the
crusty bottom and add it to the rice. Garnish
with the pecans, and serve.
How to bake the rice
Rinse the rice in several
changes of cold water until
the water runs clear. Bring a
large pot of well-salted water
to a boil. Add the rice and boil
until al dente, about 4 minutes.
Drain the rice in a fine-mesh
strainer, and then transfer to a
medium bowl.
Position a rack in the center
of the oven, and heat the oven
to 450°F.
In a medium Dutch oven or
other heavy-duty pot, melt
1 Tbs. of the butter over
medium heat. Add the onion
and ½ tsp. salt, and cook, stir-
ring occasionally, until golden,
about 6 minutes. Stir in the
coriander and cherries. Add to
the bowl with the rice, and toss
to combine. Wipe out the pot.
If you’re cooking
the rice on the
stovetop, consider
using a diffuser
plate under the pot.
It helps to distrib-
ute the heat more
evenly and create
an evenly crisp bot-
tom layer of rice.
Put 4 Tbs. of the butter in
the pot, and put the pot in the
oven until the butter melts,
about 5 minutes. Spread the
rice in the pot, and pat down
lightly. Using the handle of
a wooden spoon, make 5 or
6 holes in the rice. Put bits of
the remaining 1 Tbs. butter
in the holes. Bake the rice,
uncovered, until fragrant,
15 minutes. Lower the heat to
400°F. Cover the pot with a
cloth, then the lid, and cook for
10 minutes. Remove the pot
from the oven, and let stand
for 10 minutes.
Fluff the rice with a fork.
Serve as directed.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 63
pork chops with cherry relish
Pork chops love their fruit sauces (applesauce, anyone?). Here, tart-sweet cherries
are the main ingredient in a tangy, vibrant relish worthy of mopping up. Serves 4
Kosher salt
4 6-oz. 1-inch-thick bone-in pork chops
4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
4 oz. thinly sliced red onion (about 1¼ cups)
1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
10 oz. sweet cherries, pitted and halved
(about 2 cups)
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
1½ Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill
1 tsp. granulated sugar (optional)
64 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
Heat 1 qt. water with 3 Tbs. of salt, stirring until
the salt dissolves. Cool the brine, then put the
pork chops in a sealable plastic bag and pour
the brine over them. Seal the bag and chill
overnight.
Remove the pork from the brine and pat
the chops dry. Heat a large heavy-duty skillet
over medium heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil, and
heat until shimmering, about 5 minutes. Sear
the pork chops until browned, about 5 min-
utes, then flip and cook until an instant-read
thermometer placed in the center of a chop
registers 135°F, about 4 minutes more. Trans-
fer the pork to a cutting board and let rest.
Wipe the pan clean.
Heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil in the same
skillet over medium heat until shimmering
hot. Add the onion and ¾ tsp. salt, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until starting to brown,
4 to 6 minutes. Stir in the ginger and cook
1 minute more. Transfer the onion mixture to
a food processor. Add the cherries, vinegar,
dill, and sugar, if using. Pulse to your desired
consistency.
Serve the chops with the cherry relish.
amaretto-cherry
semifreddo
This is a departure from the classic loaf
shape for a semifreddo. This version is
round, and it has a crust with an almond
vibe from crumbled amaretti cookies.
The crushed vitamin C tablet keeps
the blended cherry juice from turning
brown. Serves 8

FOR THE CRUST

5 oz. amaretti cookies
1¾ oz. (3½ Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted
½ tsp. kosher salt

FOR THE PRALINE

¼ cup slivered almonds (1 oz.)
Nonstick cooking spray
¼ cup granulated sugar

FOR THE SEMIFREDDO

1 lb. sweet red cherries, stemmed (about
3 cups)
1 500-mg vitamin C tablet, crushed to a
powder
½ cup plus 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
¼ cup almond-flavored liqueur, such
as Amaretto
6 large egg yolks
18 tsp. pure almond extract
1 cup heavy cream

MAKE THE CRUST
Position a rack in the center of the oven, and
heat the oven to 350°F. Invert the bottom of a
9-inch springform pan, then lock on the side.
Put the amaretti in a large zip-top plas-
tic bag, and finely crush with a rolling pin.
Transfer to a bowl, and stir in the butter and
salt. Press the mixture evenly over the bottom
and one-third up the side of the pan. Bake
until the crust is firm and a shade darker, 4 to
5 minutes. Put the pan on a rack, and cool
completely. Leave the oven on.
MAKE THE PRALINE
Spread the nuts on a small rimmed baking
sheet, and toast in the oven, stirring once
or twice, until fragrant and golden, about
10 minutes. Transfer the nuts to a small bowl.
Lightly coat the same baking sheet with cook-
ing spray. Coat a silicone spatula with cooking
spray, and set aside.
Put the sugar in a small, heavy skillet over
medium-low heat, shaking the pan occasion-
ally, and cook until the sugar melts. Reduce
the heat to low, and continue to cook until the
syrup turns medium amber, about 4 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat. Stir the nuts
into the caramel with the prepared spatula.
Scrape the coated nuts onto the prepared
baking pan, and let stand to harden and cool
completely, about 15 minutes. Transfer the
praline to a cutting board, and coarsely chop.
Sift the praline in a medium-mesh strainer to
remove fine powder and crumbs. Set aside.
MAKE THE SEMIFREDDO
Pit half of the cherries, and cut each into 6 to
8 pieces. Set aside. Put the remaining cherries in
a blender (pit them, if you like) with the vitamin
C, ½ cup of the sugar, and the liqueur, and blend,
15 to 30 seconds. Press through a medium-
mesh strainer set over a medium saucepan,
pressing on and then discarding the solids.
Have ready a large metal bowl set over a
larger bowl filled with ice and water. In a small
bowl, beat the egg yolks with a hand-held
electric mixer until well blended. Transfer to
the saucepan with the cherry purée. Place the
pan over medium heat. With the mixer on high
speed, beat until the mixture is thick and pale,
4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and
transfer to the chilled bowl. Add the almond
extract, and continue to beat until thick and
pale, about 5 minutes.
In another bowl, using clean beaters,
combine the cream and the remaining 2 Tbs.
sugar, and beat until the mixture just holds
stiff peaks, about 1½ minutes.
Fold the cream into the cherry mixture gen-
tly and thoroughly, then fold in the reserved
cherries and half of the praline. Pour the semi-
freddo onto the cooled crust, and sprinkle
the remaining praline on top. Freeze, covered
with plastic wrap, until firm, at least 8 hours or
overnight. Let stand in refrigerator for 30 to
40 minutes before serving.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 65
 recipe, p. 71

These Italian tarts feature an

easy-to-make crust and fresh
fruit fillings for an ideal
summer dessert. recipe, p. 68

BY DOMENICA MARCHETTI

P H O T O G R A P H S B Y M I K E YA M I N

F O O D S T Y L I N G B Y H E AT H E R M E L D R O M

66 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

 or many bakers, pie is the first dessert pasta frolla
that comes to mind when summer rolls
around. But for this Italian baker, the
(sweet pastry dough)
dessert of choice is a crostata, a tart Pasta frolla forms the base for most
often filled with fruit or cream—or a combination of crostatas. It's a sweet pastry, typically
the two—that is ubiquitous throughout Italy. enriched with butter and eggs or egg
Although a crostata shares similarities with pie and yolk. It’s delicate yet easy to roll out and
with the freeform French galette, it’s distinct from easily patched together if it tears. If
either of those treats. A typical crostata is shallower you’re concerned about using too much
than a pie but has more structure than a galette, and flour when rolling out the dough, roll the
can be baked in anything from a fluted tart tin to an dough between sheets of parchment.
old pizza pan. It is made with pasta frolla, a sweet, but- Makes enough for a 9-inch lattice-top
tery short-crust pastry enriched with egg, and as with crostata
all Italian food, its filling varies by region, season, and
9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
individual baker.
23 cup confectioners’ sugar
The most basic, and beloved, version is crostata di
¼ tsp. fine sea salt
marmellata, in which a thick layer of good jam is sand-
1 tsp. baking powder (optional; see
wiched between the bottom crust and a rolled lattice sidebar, p. 72)
top. Virtually every hotel, B&B, and agriturismo sets at Grated zest of 1 lemon or 1 small
least one crostata out at its daily breakfast buffet, and I orange—or a little of both (about 1 Tbs.)
have fond memories of waking up in my aunt's house 5½ oz. (11 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into
½-inch cubes
in Rome to find a freshly baked jam crostata beneath a
1 large egg, plus 1 large egg yolk
clean towel on the kitchen table.
Summer is my favorite season for crostatas. Rather
Put the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, if
than relying on jam from my pantry, I can start with
using, and zest into a food processor. Pulse
fresh fruit from the farmers’ market or garden—from
briefly to combine. Distribute the butter
strawberries at the beginning of the season to figs at the
around the bowl, and pulse until the mixture
end. The key is to cook the fruit down a bit with sugar
is crumbly. Add the egg and egg yolk, and
to make a quick jam. This both concentrates the fruit’s
process until the dough begins to clump
fresh flavor and avoids a filling that’s too wet.
together, about 30 seconds.
Perhaps the most appealing aspect of the crostata is
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured
how accommodating it is, and how easy it is to adapt it
work surface and gather it into a ball. Form the
to your own taste. The recipes here offer good exam-
dough into two disks, one slightly larger than
ples, because they invite mixing and matching. For the
the other. Wrap each disk tightly in plastic
simplest rendition, start with the strawberry jam cro-
wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or
stata, a classic breakfast crostata. For something more
until well chilled (overnight is fine). Remove
elaborate, try the caramelized peach and frangipane, or
the dough from the refrigerator 30 minutes
the spiced blueberry and ricotta. Or mix it up by top-
before rolling it out.
ping the frangipane filling with spiced blueberries, and
the ricotta filling with caramelized peaches. You can
also substitute the caramelized peaches or blueberries
for the strawberries in the classic version. And keep in
mind that the Brandied Fig and Chocolate Crostata is
delicious baked in the cocoa crust, but it’s just as good CHOCOLATE
in a plain crust. PASTA FROLLA
Once you’ve mastered the basics, you'll soon find Substitute ¼ cup unsweetened
yourself dreaming up your own filling and flavor cocoa powder for ¼ cup of
combinations. the all-purpose flour. Use the
lemon or orange zest, or add
¼ tsp. pure vanilla extract
when you add the egg
Frequent Fine Cooking contributor Domenica Marchetti
and egg yolk.
is the author of books including The Beautiful Vegetables
of Italy, Ciao Biscotti, and Preserving Italy.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 67
strawberry jam crostata
Filled with fresh preserves, this is a classic breakfast jam cro-
stata in Italy. Freshly made strawberry jam is my choice here, but
feel free to substitute a pound of your favorite summer fruit. In a
pinch, use frozen fruit. I usually use a lattice top for this crostata,
but use cookie cutouts if you like. Serves 10 to 12

FOR THE STRAWBERRY JAM Lightly dust a work surface and

1 lb. strawberries, hulled and
quartered (about 4 cups)
1 13 cups granulated sugar
2 2-inch strips lemon zest
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
FOR ASSEMBLY AND SERVING
1 batch Pasta Frolla (p. 67), made
with baking powder, chilled
Unbleached all-purpose flour,
as needed
Confectioners’ sugar
(optional), for dusting
Put the strawberries, sugar, and
lemon zest and juice in a medium
heavy-duty saucepan, and stir to
combine. Cook over low heat to
dissolve the sugar, about 10 min-
utes. Use a potato masher to break
up the strawberries a bit. Raise the
heat to medium high, and bring to a
boil. Reduce the heat and simmer,
stirring often, until the mixture has
thickened to jam consistency, 15 to
17 minutes. You should be able to
drag a path through the bottom
of the saucepan with a silicone
spatula or wooden spoon. Scrape
the jam into a heatproof bowl,
and let cool completely. Remove
and discard the lemon zest. (The
jam can be stored in an airtight
container in the refrigerator for up
to 2 weeks.)
ASSEMBLE AND BAKE
THE CROSTATA
Position a rack in the center of the
oven, put a large rimmed baking
sheet on the rack, and heat the
oven to 350°F. Remove the pasta
frolla from the refrigerator and let
it rest at room temperature for
30 minutes to soften slightly. Have
ready a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a
removable bottom.
rolling pin with flour. Roll the larger
disk of pasta frolla into a 12-inch
circle, lifting and turning the dough
as you roll to prevent sticking and
create an even round. Gently wrap
the dough around the rolling pin and
unroll it over the tart pan. Gently
fit the dough into the pan without
stretching it. Use the palm of your
hand or the rolling pin to trim off the
excess. Refrigerate while you roll out
the second piece of dough.
Roll the smaller piece into a 10-
inch circle and use a fluted pastry
wheel to cut it into strips from
½ inch to 1 inch wide. (For a more
traditional look, divide the disk into
10 pieces, and with your hands, roll
each piece into a 10-inch rope.)
Remove the crostata base from
the refrigerator and spoon the jam
into it, spreading it evenly. Position
the strips of pastry on top of the
jam in a crisscross lattice pattern.
You can weave the strips if you like,
but the dough is fragile and tends to
tear so it’s not necessary (nor is it
traditional). Press the edges of the
strips into the edge of the tart shell
to secure, and trim off the excess.
Set the crostata on the heated
baking sheet and bake until the
crust is golden-brown, 25  to
30 minutes. Transfer from the
baking sheet to a rack to cool
completely. Remove the ring and
use a large, wide-angled spatula
to transfer the crostata from the
metal tart base to a serving plate.
Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if
using, and serve.
finecooking.com
To watch a video of making the
lattice-topped strawberry tart, go to
FineCooking.com/strawberry-crostata.

68 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

lemon crostata
I firmly believe that a lemon crostata can successfully follow just
about any meal. Its bright, tart flavor and creamy texture make
it thoroughly welcome at the end of dinner. Rather than a lattice
top, this crostata is decorated with pastry cutouts that are baked
separately. Use whatever shapes you like to create the decora-
tion. Serves 10 to 12
FOR THE CRUST
1 batch Pasta Frolla (p. 67), made
without baking powder, chilled
Unbleached all-purpose flour,
as needed
FOR THE FILLING
4 large eggs, at room
temperature
1½ cups granulated sugar
1 18 oz. (¼ cup) unbleached
all-purpose flour
1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
½ cup fresh lemon juice (from
about 4 lemons)
18 tsp. fine sea salt
Confectioners’ sugar, for
dusting (optional)
MAKE THE CRUST
Position a rack in the center of the
oven, put a large rimmed baking
sheet on the rack, and heat the
oven to 350°F. Remove the pasta
frolla from the refrigerator and let
it rest at room temperature for
30 minutes. Have ready a 9-inch
fluted tart pan with a removable
bottom.
Lightly dust a work surface and
rolling pin with flour. Roll the larger
disk of pasta frolla into a 12-inch
circle, lifting and turning the dough
as you roll to prevent sticking and
create an even round. Gently wrap
the dough around the rolling pin
and unroll it over the tart pan.
Gently fit the dough into the pan
without stretching it. Use the palm
of your hand or the rolling pin to
trim off the excess. Refrigerate for
30 minutes.
Remove the tart pan from the
refrigerator, and line it with a sheet
of parchment or aluminum foil.
Fill with pie weights, beans, or rice,
and bake on the baking sheet for
15 minutes. Remove the foil and
pie weights, and bake until the
crust is light golden, about 10 min-
utes more. Remove from the oven
and let cool. Remove the baking
sheet from the oven, but leave the
oven on.
Roll out the smaller piece of
dough to about ¼-inch thickness,
and cut out decorative shapes
to adorn the top of the finished
crostata. Place the dough cutouts
on a large rimmed baking sheet and
refrigerate for 30 minutes. Bake the
cutouts until the edges are lightly
browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer
to a rack to cool. Return the empty
baking sheet to the oven and leave
the oven on.
MAKE THE FILLING
AND BAKE THE TART
In a medium bowl, gently but
thoroughly whisk the eggs, sugar,
flour, lemon zest and juice, and salt.
Avoid whisking too vigorously; you
want the filling to be well blended
but not too frothy (it will froth a
little). Pour the filling to the top of
the cooled crostata shell; you may
have a little leftover. Bake until the
filling is just set but not browned
on top, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer
from the baking sheet to a rack to
cool completely.
Remove the ring and use a large,
wide-angled spatula to transfer the
crostata from the metal tart base
to a serving plate. Dust with con-
fectioners’ sugar; then arrange the
baked cutouts on top (leave them
bare so they stand out against the
sugar-dusted crostata) and serve.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 69
 recipe, p. 72

70 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

spiced blueberry and ricotta crostata
I love a simple ricotta crostata, but it only recently dawned on me that the
cheese might be even better topped with dollops of spiced blueberry jam.
They're a match made in heaven. Serves 10 to 12
FOR THE BLUEBERRY JAM
1 lb. blueberries, fresh or frozen
(about 4 cups)
¾ to 1 cup granulated sugar
1 2-inch strip lemon zest
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. ground cloves
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
FOR THE RICOTTA CREAM
1½ cups well-drained cow’s milk ricotta
13 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 large egg, plus 1 large egg yolk
¼ tsp. pure vanilla extract
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
FOR ASSEMBLY AND SERVING
1 batch Pasta Frolla (p. 67), made with
or without baking powder, chilled
All-purpose flour, as needed
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
(optional)
MAKE THE BLUEBERRY JAM
Put the blueberries, sugar, and lemon
zest and juice in a medium heavy-duty
saucepan. Cook over low heat to dissolve
the sugar, about 10 minutes. Use a potato
masher to break the berries up a bit.
Raise the heat to medium, and bring to a
boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring
often, until the mixture has thickened,
about 10 minutes.
Stir in the cinnamon, cloves, and nut-
meg, and simmer until thickened to a jam
consistency, about 5 minutes more. You
should be able to drag a path through the
bottom of the saucepan with a silicone
spatula or wooden spoon. Remove and
discard the zest. Scrape the jam into a
heatproof bowl and let cool completely.
(The jam can be stored in an airtight con-
tainer in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.)
MAKE THE RICOTTA CREAM
Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment (or a hand-held electric
mixer and a large bowl), mix together the
ricotta, confectioners’ sugar, egg, egg
yolk, vanilla, and cinnamon until thor-
oughly combined. Cover and refrigerate
until ready to use.
ASSEMBLE AND BAKE THE CROSTATA
Position a rack in the center of the oven,
put a large rimmed baking sheet on the
rack, and heat the oven to 350°F. Remove
the pasta frolla from the refrigerator
and let it rest at room temperature for
30 minutes. Have ready a 9-inch fluted
tart pan with a removable bottom.
Lightly dust a work surface and rolling
pin with flour. Roll the larger disk of pasta
frolla into a 12-inch circle, lifting and turn-
ing the dough as you roll to prevent sticking
and create an even round. Gently wrap the
dough around the rolling pin, and unroll it
over the tart pan. Gently fit the dough into
the pan without stretching it. Use the palm
of your hand or the rolling pin to trim off
the excess. Refrigerate while you roll out
the second piece of dough.
Roll the smaller piece into a 10-inch
circle, and use a fluted pastry wheel to cut
it into strips from ½ inch to 1 inch wide. (For
a more traditional look, divide the disk into
10 pieces, and with your hands, roll each
piece into a 10-inch rope.)
Remove the crostata base from the
refrigerator. Spread the ricotta cream
evenly over the crostata base. Dollop
spoonfuls of blueberry jam over the
ricotta. Position the strips of pastry on
top in a lattice pattern. You can weave the
strips if you like, but the dough is fragile
and tends to tear so it’s not necessary
(nor is it traditional). Press the edges of
the strips into the edge of the tart shell to
secure and trim off the excess.
Put the crostata on the heated baking
sheet and bake until the crust is golden-
brown and the filling is set, for 40 to
45 minutes. Transfer from the baking
sheet to a rack to cool completely.
Remove the ring, and use a large, wide-
angled spatula to transfer the crostata
from the metal tart base to a serving plate.
Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if using,
and serve.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 71
brown sugar-peach crostata with frangipane
This recipe takes the traditional crostata one step further by adding a layer of
frangipane, a rich almond cream that pairs beautifully with the brown sugar-
peach preserves. Serves 10 to 12
FOR THE PEACH PRESERVES
1½ lb. ripe peaches, pitted, peeled, and cut
into ½-inch slices or 1 lb. frozen sliced
peaches (about 3½ cups)
1 firmly packed cup light brown sugar
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
FOR THE FRANGIPANE
¾ cup almond flour or almond meal
13 cup granulated sugar
3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter, at cool
room temperature
1 large egg, at room temperature
¼ tsp. pure almond extract
¼ tsp. pure vanilla extract
18 tsp. fine sea salt
FOR ASSEMBLY
1 batch Pasta Frolla (p. 67), made with
or without baking powder, chilled
Unbleached all-purpose flour, as
needed
MAKE THE PEACH PRESERVES
Put the peaches, brown sugar, and lemon
juice in a medium heavy-duty saucepan.
Cook over low heat to dissolve the sugar,
about 10 minutes. Raise the heat to
medium and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring
often, until the peaches are tender and
the liquid is thickened and syrupy, about
10 minutes. Stir in the cinnamon and
nutmeg, and simmer until thickened to a
jam consistency, 5 to 10 minutes more.
You should be able to drag a path through
the bottom of the saucepan with a silicone
spatula. Scrape the peaches into a heat-
proof bowl and let cool completely. (The
preserves can be stored in an airtight con-
tainer in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.)
MAKE THE FRANGIPANE
Put the almond flour, sugar, butter, egg,
almond and vanilla extracts, and salt into a
food processor fitted with the metal blade.
Pulse until the mixture is combined, scrap-
ing down the bowl as necessary. Scrape
into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for up
to 1 hour.
72 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
MAKE AND ASSEMBLE THE TART
Position a rack in the center of the oven,
put a large rimmed baking sheet on the
rack, and heat the oven to 350°F. Remove
the pasta frolla from the refrigerator and
let it rest at room temperature for 30 min-
utes. Have ready a 9-inch fluted tart pan
with a removable bottom.
Lightly dust a work surface and rolling
pin with flour. Roll the larger disk of pasta
frolla into a 12-inch circle, lifting and turn-
ing the dough as you roll to prevent sticking
and create an even round. Gently wrap the
dough around the rolling pin and unroll it
over the tart pan. Gently fit the dough into
the pan without stretching it. Use the palm
of your hand or the rolling pin to trim off
the excess. Refrigerate while you roll out
the second piece of dough.
Roll the smaller piece into a 10-inch
circle, and use a fluted pastry wheel to cut
it into strips from ½ inch to 1 inch wide.
Remove the crostata base from the
refrigerator. Spread the frangipane evenly
over the crostata base. Spoon the cooled
peach preserves over the frangipane in an
even layer. If the preserves are syrupy, use
a slotted spoon to separate the peaches
and syrup, and reserve the leftover syrup
for another use (it’s delicious spooned
over yogurt or vanilla ice cream). Position
the strips of pastry on top of the peaches
in a crisscross lattice pattern. You can
weave the strips if you like, but the dough is
fragile and tends to tear so it’s not neces-
sary (nor is it traditional). Press the edges
of the strips into the edge of the tart shell
to secure and trim off the excess.
Set the crostata on the heated baking
sheet, and bake until the crust is golden-
brown, about 40 minutes. Transfer from
the baking sheet to a rack to cool com-
pletely. Remove the ring and use a large,
wide-angled spatula to transfer the cro-
stata from the metal tart base to a serving
plate. Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if
using, and serve.
Pasta frolla
Pasta frolla, the butter-rich pastry used
to make crostatas, is like a fingerprint in
Italy; every baker has her own version.
The basic recipe contains all-purpose
flour, butter, sugar, and eggs or egg yolks.
But variations abound. I use confec-
tioners’ sugar rather than granulated
because I find it makes silkier dough.
Most bakers add a touch of vanilla or a
little finely grated lemon or orange zest
(or both) to their dough. Substituting
unsweetened cocoa for a portion of the
flour creates a pastry with a deep choco-
late color and gentle cocoa flavor. And
a pinch of baking powder in the dough
yields a softer, more tender crust, which
I like especially for breakfast jam crosta-
tas. For dessert crostatas, I prefer the
shortbread crispness of a crust made
without baking powder.
Be sure to chill pasta
frolla before rolling it out.
It is easy to roll, but warms
up quickly—take care not to
overhandle it. Still, don’t fret over it; the
dough is silky and forgiving, and while it
can tear easily, it is just as easily patched
back together.
Not all crostatas call for a lattice top
(the Lemon Crostata recipe on p. 69 has
no lattice), but it is traditional. There are
a couple of approaches to forming the
lattice. One is to roll pieces of dough by
hand into long ropes and arrange them
on top of the filled base in a crisscross
pattern. Another is to roll the pastry into
a sheet and cut strips with a straight
or fluted pastry wheel. The traditional
lattice top is not woven, as the buttery
dough makes it challenging to weave
without tearing. That said, if the dough
is sufficiently chilled, it is possible to
create a woven lattice top (the more you
practice, the easier it is to do).
Finally, you can forgo the lattice alto-
gether and instead use cookie cutters
to cut out decorative shapes to top your
crostata. Let your own artistic sense be
your guide.
brandied fig and
chocolate crostata
I have a small but prolific fig tree in my
backyard. One summer, while experi-
menting with fig jam, I stirred in some
bittersweet chocolate and a splash of
Cognac and created what might be my
all-time favorite combination. It's espe-
cially good in a buttery chocolate crust.
Serves 10 to 12

FOR THE BRANDIED FIG

AND CHOCOLATE PRESERVES
1 lb. fresh figs, stemmed and quartered
(about 3¼ cups)
1 cup granulated sugar
Seeds from ½ vanilla bean, plus the
half-pod
1 1-inch strip lemon zest
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbs. Cognac
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
1 oz. bittersweet chocolate, coarsely
chopped

FOR ASSEMBLY AND SERVING

1 batch Chocolate Pasta Frolla (p. 67), made
with baking powder and orange zest
Unbleached all-purpose flour, as needed
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting (optional)

MAKE THE PRESERVES

Put the figs, sugar, vanilla seeds and pod, and
lemon zest and juice in a medium heavy-duty
ASSEMBLE AND BAKE THE TART and with your hands, roll each piece into a
saucepan, and stir to combine. Cook over
Position a rack in the center of the oven, put a 10-inch rope.)
low heat to dissolve the sugar, about 10 min-
large rimmed baking sheet on the rack, and heat Remove the crostata base from the refrig-
utes. Use a potato masher to break up the
the oven to 350°F. Remove the pasta frolla from erator and spoon the jam into it, spreading it
figs a bit. Raise the heat to medium high, and
the refrigerator and let it rest at room tempera- evenly. Position the strips of pastry on top of
bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer,
ture for 30 minutes. Have ready a 9-inch fluted the jam in a crisscross lattice pattern. You can
stirring often, until the mixture has thickened,
tart pan with a removable bottom. weave the strips if you like, but the dough is
about 10 minutes. Stir in the Cognac and
Lightly dust a work surface and rolling pin fragile and tends to tear so it’s not necessary
cinnamon, and cook until thickened to a jam
with flour. Roll the larger disk of pasta frolla (nor is it traditional). Press the edges of the
consistency, 2  to 3 minutes more. You should
into a 12-inch circle, lifting and turning the strips into the edge of the tart shell to secure,
be able to drag a path through the bottom
dough as you roll to prevent sticking and and trim off the excess.
of the saucepan with a silicone spatula or
create an even round. Gently wrap the dough Put the crostata on the heated baking
wooden spoon. Remove from the heat, add
around the rolling pin and unroll it over the tart sheet and bake until the crust is set and
the chocolate, and stir until melted and thor-
pan. Gently fit the dough into the pan without smells like toasty chocolate (it’s difficult to
oughly combined. Discard the zest and vanilla
stretching it. Use the palm of your hand or the tell if a chocolate crust has browned), 30 to
pod. Scrape the jam into a heatproof bowl and
rolling pin to trim off the excess. Refrigerate 35 minutes. Transfer from the baking sheet
let cool completely. (The preserves can be
while you roll out the second piece of dough. to a rack to cool completely. Remove the ring,
stored in an airtight container in the refrigera-
Roll the smaller piece into a 10-inch circle, use a large, wide-angled spatula to transfer
tor for up to 2 weeks.)
and use a fluted pastry wheel to cut it into the crostata from the metal tart base to a
strips from ½ inch to 1 inch wide. (For a more serving plate. Dust with confectioners’ sugar,
traditional look, divide the disk into 10 pieces, if using, and serve.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 73
 Test KitchenTips | Techniques | Equipment | Ingredients | Glossary

TECHNIQUE

Slice tomatoes
between plates
Here’s a trick for quickly slicing a lot of cherry
tomatoes in half at once, as you need to do
for the pinsa topping on p. 47. Using two small,
matching, shallow-rimmed plates, fill the
center of one plate with cherry tomatoes.
Invert the second plate and cover the
tomatoes. Press down on the top plate with
one hand to hold the tomatoes in place. Insert
a serrated knife in the opening between the
plates, and then gently saw back and forth to
cut the tomatoes in half. —Mary Jo Romano

74 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    > V ] b ] U ` O ^ V a  P g  ; W Y S  GO [ W \ )  T ] ] R  a b g Z W \ U  P g  8 ] O \  D S Z c a V

 Taste Your Food,
Not Your Firelighter!

No Paraffin. No Petroleum. Non-Toxic.

Perfect for Grills, Stoves,
Campfires, and Fireplaces.

IF YOU CARE
100% Biomass Firelighters
USDA Certified
Biobased Product
FSC® (FSC-C005046) Wood
Non-GMO Vegetable Oil
100% Renewable Resources
No Unpleasant Smell
Pure Enough to Pack Near Food ifyoucare.com

The Perfect Fit for Your Healthy Lifestyle.


TIP
Flavorful, versatile
compound butter
To finish her grilled rib-eyes on
p. 24, Diana Andrews uses a delicious
butter flavored with shallots, sun-
dried tomatoes, and jalapeños.
The topping is a compound butter,
a mixture of butter and other
flavorings. Compound butters can
contain herbs, citrus zest, spices,
sweeteners, or other components and
bring an elegant touch as a topping
for a protein or vegetable.
Making compound butter is easy.
1 Fold the butter and flavoring
components together with a silicone
spatula until they’re well combined.
Transfer the butter to a serving dish
to use immediately while it’s still soft.
For a more dramatic presentation,
roll the butter into a log. 2 Transfer the
butter to a large piece of parchment.
Fold the parchment over the butter, and
with a ruler or bench scraper pressed
tightly against it, pull on the lower piece
of parchment using even pressure to
shape the log. 3 Tuck the ends of the
parchment under the log. Refrigerate
until well chilled.
Refrigerate the butter for up to two
weeks or freeze for up to two months.
You can also slice the butter into
pats and freeze them in zip-top bags,
where they’ll be ready to go whenever
you need a quick hit of flavor.
—Tony Rosenfeld and Sarah Opdahl
76 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   
TIP
Fish spatulas
beyond fish
When testing Lynne Curry’s deli-
cious grilled meals on p. 56, I used
two fish spatulas to maneuver
food on the grill and in the grill
pan—it was easier than using
tongs. The fish spatulas’ long, thin,
flexible metal head easily slid un-
der the vegetables in the grill pan,
making them easier to toss.
In the test kitchen, we use fish
spatulas for multiple tasks, from
transferring cookies to cooling
racks to managing just about any
item in a skillet or saucepan. The
wide slots in the spatulas let foods
drain as you move them around
or out of pans. And if you need to
peek under something to tell if it’s
ready to turn, the slots will let you
see more surface area of the food.
The Oxo Good Grips Fish Turner
shown here (oxo.com; $13.99) is
1
available at well-stocked cook-
ware stores. —Diana Andrews
and S.O.
2
3
 AALLLL
--NNEE
WW SS
EEA
ASSO
ONN
67
New tastes in favorite places.
Join us!

Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking discovers

new flavors in England, Spain and Portugal.

“Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking” is a production of WGBH

Boston and distributed by American Public Television.

© 2019 The Taunton Press

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 77
T E S T K I TC H E N

TIP

Tart pans
Domenica Marchetti’s beautiful
crostatas (p. 66) are made in tart
pans. These metal baking pans
have removable bottoms, which
makes getting the tart out of the
pan as easy as, well, pie (or tart, in
this case). Be sure to handle the
tart pan from the sides when you’re
putting the tart in the oven; if you
try to carry it from the bottom,
you’re likely to push up on the pan
and dislodge the crust and filling.
When you’re ready to serve the
baked, cooled tart, remove it from
the pan by putting the pan over a
28-oz. can of tomatoes (or similar
large can). The rim of the tart pan
will drop down, leaving the tart on
the bottom of the pan. For cleanup,
use warm, soapy water, and dry the
pan thoroughly. Many tart pans are
made of steel or steel alloys, and
they can rust if left to air-dry.
—Chris Hoelck

RECIPE

fried shallots
Canned fried onions are a great topping for salads,
main dishes, and sides. They’re a quick purchase
at the grocery store, but it’s easy to make your own
version at home. Added bonus: They don’t come
from a can. They’re a great topping for the salad on
p. 55. Makes about 1 cup
3 medium shallots
3 Tbs. cornstarch
1 cup neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola
Kosher salt

Thinly slice the shallots lengthwise into thin strips, and then
separate them into pieces. In a medium bowl, toss the shal-
lots with the cornstarch until well coated.
In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat.
Add the shallots, and cook, tossing occasionally, until
golden, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the
shallots to a plate lined with paper towels. Salt lightly while
still warm, and then use as directed. —D.A.

78 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G    Photograph by Mike Yamin

 Rice flour Soy flour

INGREDIENT

A mix of flours
The dough for the irresistible
pinse on p. 44 uses a blend of
three flours: bread, soy, and
rice flours. Bread flour provides
structure, helpful when you
want to grill the pinse. Soy flour
provides a protein boost while
imparting a slightly nutty flavor,
and rice flour gives a springy
elasticity to the dough. —D.A.

TIP

Double up on skewers
The salmon and asparagus skewers on p. 22
call for using two parallel skewers per kebab.
Threading the fish and vegetable onto two
skewers secures the food and keeps it
TIP
from spinning or falling off when
you flip it. —S.O.
The Three
Sisters
For her Three Sisters
Salad (p. 52), Heather
Meldrom was inspired
by the Native American
agricultural practice of
growing corn, beans, and
squash together. The
concept thrives on a
mutually beneficial
arrangement: Corn
serves as a natural trellis
for the beans, the beans
help to enrich the soil,
and ground-cover squash
keeps weeds out and
moisture in. —S.O.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 79
T E S T K I TC H E N
INGREDIENT
Stracciatella
The pinse on p. 47 are topped
with stracciatella, a luscious,
buttery-textured cheese
made from mozzarella and
cream. It’s best known as the
milky filling in burrata and adds
richness to pastas and salads.
Highly perishable, stracciatella
should be consumed promptly after
purchasing, within one to two days.
—S.O.
TIP
Clean grills when they’re hot
The trick to maintaining clean
grill grates is to brush them when
they’re very hot and use plenty
of elbow grease.
For a gas grill, the best time to
do this is just before grilling. Turn
all the burners to high and let the
grill heat with the lid down for 10
to 15 minutes, or until the internal
grill temperature is higher than
500°F. This burns off the residue
from the last cookout, making
it much easier to brush off with
a brass-bristle grill brush (steel
bristles are too hard and can
damage enamel-coated grates).
If you have a lot of accumulated
buildup on your gas grill grate,
you’ll need to allow more time to
burn off the residue, so let the
80 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G  
grill heat on high for a full hour
before brushing.
For charcoal grills, burn off
any residue on the grate right
after grilling. Just set the lid on
the grill, and as the hot coals
burn out, any residue should
burn off. Then brush before the
next use.
Don’t be afraid to clean
aggressively. You want the sur-
face of the grate to be smooth
and free from any food that may
have stuck the last time. This
prevents the buildup of charred
food on the grate and helps en-
sure that the food you’re about
to cook won’t stick.
—Elizabeth Karmel
TIP
Gluten-free
pinse dough
While the dough for the
delicious pinse (p. 45)
uses a couple of gluten-
free flours, the dough isn’t
gluten-free because bread
flour is part of the mix. After
some testing, I figured out
a way to make the dough
work gluten-free. One note: The gluten-free version
doesn’t work well on the grill, but it’s great in the oven.
Follow the instructions on p. 45 with these changes:
Substitute an all-purpose gluten-free flour blend
for the bread flour (I used Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free
Baking Flour) and prepare the dough as directed.
Form the dough into six balls, each about 5½ oz., and
let rise until doubled in size, 2 to 3 hours.
Put one piece of dough on a well-floured pizza
peel, and generously flour the top and bottom of
the dough ball. Using your fingers, gently flatten and
press the dough into a 7-inch by 9-inch oval. Sprinkle
with more flour if the dough begins to get sticky, and
shake the peel frequently to ensure that the dough
isn’t sticking. Lightly dab olive oil onto the top of
the dough. Bake as directed (p. 49) until puffy and
golden in places, 5 to 6 minutes. (For freezing and re-
heating tips, go to FineCooking.com/pinsa.) —D.A.
 Nutrition
Calories Fat Cal Total Sat Fat Poly Fat Mono Chol Sodium Carb Fiber Sugar Protein
Recipe
(kcal) (kcal) Fat (g) (g) (g) Fat (g) (mg) (mg) (g) (g) (g) (g)
MAKE IT TONIGHT, P. 14
Grilled Sea Bass and Potatoes wPimento-Chive Dressing 750 420 47 6 29 10 75 700 45 5 6 38
Curried Carrot Fritters 530 320 36 11 9 13 305 750 35 9 13 18
Herbed Israeli Couscous wTuna and Preserved Lemon 260 70 8 4.5 1 2.5 110 95 42 0 34 6
Thai Chicken Wings wCucumber-Peanut Salad and Rice 880 330 36 10 8 17 260 2230 80 3 20 52
Salmon and Asparagus Skewers with Aïoli 550 360 40 7 21 10 110 560 10 1 1 42
Grilled Rib-Eye Steaks wShallot-Jalapeño-Tomato Butter 690 490 55 27 3.5 22 175 790 3 1 1 46
Grilled Okra with Orange-Shallot Vinaigrette 260 220 25 3.5 3 18 0 290 10 3 5 3
Quinoa Bowls wSeared Halloumi, Tomatoes, Chickpeas 830 440 49 15 10 17 45 1330 73 5 13 30
MENUS, P. 30
Reverse-Sear Tenderloin Caprese Platter 370 250 27 12 1.5 11 100 530 4 1 2 28
Lobster, Shrimp, and Avocado Salad wCreamy Lime Dressing 90 50 6 1.5 2 2 75 340 2 1 0 8
Fruit Skewers wHoney and Lemon-Vanilla Goat Cheese 280 100 11 7 0.5 2.5 30 80 45 3 41 4
FOOD SCIENCE, P. 33
Pineapple-Lime-Ginger Scallop Ceviche 110 5 0.5 0 0 0 25 890 11 1 3 14
MOVEABLE FEAST, P. 38
Ricotta, Pea, and Pickled Beet Crostini 40 20 2.5 1 0 1 5 50 3 0 1 2
Cured Trout 120 45 5 1 1 2.5 45 260 1 0 1 16
Salt-Baked Kohlrabi with Turnips 230 200 23 3 8 11 30 190 6 2 3 2
PINSA, P. 44
Pinsa Romana Dough 190 30 3 0 1 1.5 0 690 35 1 0 6
Zucchini, Ricotta, and Lemon Pinsa 310 110 12 4.5 1.5 5 20 1050 38 2 1 12
Asparagus and Prosciutto Pinsa 380 150 17 7 1.5 7 45 1540 37 2 1 20
Mozzarella Curd, Tomato, and Almond Pesto Pinsa 370 180 20 7 2 8 30 1030 37 2 1 11
Peach, Honey, and Walnut Pinsa 370 130 14 1.5 7 5 0 1280 55 4 18 9
Gianduja, Cherry, and Hazelnut Pinsa 490 190 21 5 1.5 6 0 710 66 3 28 10
BEAN SALADS, P. 50
Chickpeas and Cauliflower wCurry Vinaigrette and Yogurt 380 190 22 5 3 12 5 360 37 9 14 13
Three Sisters Salad 280 90 10 1.5 1.5 7 0 270 38 10 8 11
Marinated Fennel and Bean Salad with Citrus and Olives 280 150 16 2 1.5 10 0 470 29 10 9 7
Spicy Cucumber and Black Bean Salad 370 120 13 2 5 5 0 560 51 10 8 12
GRILLED DINNERS, P. 56
Garlic-Butter Ciabatta 340 200 23 14 1 7 60 370 27 0 1 6
Charred Radicchio wGrilled Lemon and Shaved Parmesan 200 160 19 3.5 3 11 10 310 6 1 1 4
Grilled Green Beans and New Potatoes 90 20 2.5 0 0 1.5 0 85 15 3 3 2
Grilled Steak with Garlic-Herb Butter 190 70 7 2.5 0 3 75 340 3 1 2 29
Miso-Grilled Summer Squash with Black Sesame Salt 80 50 6 3 1 1.5 10 460 6 2 3 2
Sesame Asparagus with Quick-Pickled Radish 45 30 3.5 0.5 1.5 1.5 0 150 3 1 1 1
Citrus-Marinated Grilled Salmon 190 80 8 1.5 3.5 2.5 55 640 5 0 3 24
Japanese-Style Grilled Corn 50 5 0.5 0 0 0 0 440 10 1 3 2
CHERRIES, P. 60
Summer Bourbon-Cherry Fizz 250 0 0 0 0 0 0 15 26 1 22 1
Sour Cherry Persian Rice 340 140 16 8 1.5 5 30 190 48 2 7 5
Pork Chops with Cherry Relish 410 190 21 4.5 2 13 115 540 16 2 13 38
Amaretto-Cherry Semifreddo 420 190 21 12 1.5 7 185 100 53 3 49 5
CROSTATAS, P. 66
Pasta Frolla 210 100 12 7 0.5 3.5 60 100 23 1 7 3
Chocolate Pasta Frolla 200 100 12 7 0.5 3.5 60 100 22 1 7 3
Strawberry Jam Crostata 320 100 12 7 0.5 3.5 60 100 51 1 34 3
Lemon Crostata 340 120 13 7 1 4 120 125 51 1 32 6
Spiced Blueberry and Ricotta Crostata 360 150 16 10 1 5 105 130 46 2 26 8
Brown Sugar-Peach Crostata with Frangipane 420 190 21 11 2 7 90 135 54 1 35 6
Brandied Fig and Chocolate Crostata 310 110 13 7 0.5 3.5 60 100 47 2 30 4
TEST KITCHEN, P. 74
Fried Shallots 60 40 4.5 0 3 0.5 0 95 5 0 0 0
The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients without is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the
at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of analysis is based on ¼ tsp. salt and  1 8 tsp. pepper per serving for
choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre- ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion entrées, and 18 tsp. salt and 116 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 81
 Recipe Index
Cover Grilled Rib-Eye Steaks with Desserts & Sweets
Aspargi e Prosciutto (Asparagus Shallot-Jalapeño-Tomato Butter .24 Amaretto-Cherry Semifreddo.......65
and Prosciutto) Pinsa ...................... 46
Grilled Steak with Garlic-Herb Brandied Fig and Chocolate
Zucchini, Ricotta, e Limone Butter ..................................................... 57 Crostata .................................................73
(Zucchini, Ricotta, and
Pork Chops with Cherry Relish ..... 64 Brown Sugar-Peach Crostata
Lemon) Pinsa...................................... 46
with Frangipane ..................................72
Reverse-Sear Tenderloin
Drinks & Starters Caprese Platter ...................................32 Fruit Skewers with Spiced Honey
and Lemon-Vanilla Goat Cheese .32
Ricotta, Pea, and Pickled
Beet Crostini ........................................42 Poultry Gianduja, Ciliegie, e Nocciole
Thai Chicken Wings with (Gianduja, Cherry, and Hazelnut)
Summer Bourbon-Cherry Fizz ......62
Cucumber-Peanut Salad Pinsa ...................................................... 49
and Rice .................................................20
Salads Lemon Crostata ................................ 69

Charred Radicchio with Grilled Meatless Mains Pesche, Miele, e Noci (Peach,
Lemon and Shaved Parmesan ...... 57 Curried Carrot Fritters ...................... 16 Honey, and Walnut) Pinsa .............. 48

Chickpeas and Cauliflower Quinoa Bowls with Seared Spiced Blueberry and Ricotta
with Curry Vinaigrette and Halloumi, Roasted Tomatoes, Crostata ................................................. 71
Spiced Yogurt ...................................... 51 and Chickpeas.....................................26
Strawberry Jam Crostata ............... 68
Herbed Israeli Couscous with Stracciatella, Pomodoro, e
Tuna and Preserved Lemon............20 Pesto di Mandorla (Mozzarella Extras
Curd, Tomato, and Almond Chocolate Pasta Frolla .....................67
Lobster, Shrimp, and Avocado
Pesto) Pinsa .........................................47
Salad with Creamy Fried Shallots .......................................78
Lime Dressing ......................................32 Zucchini, Ricotta, e Limone
Pasta Frolla (Sweet Pastry
(Zucchini, Ricotta, and
Marinated Fennel and Bean Dough) ...................................................67
Lemon) Pinsa...................................... 46
Salad with Citrus and Olives ...........54
Pinsa Romana Dough .......................45
Spicy Cucumber and Black Side Dishes
Bean Salad ............................................55
Garlic-Butter Ciabatta...................... 57
Three Sisters Salad ............................52 VEGETARIAN: May contain
Grilled Green Beans and New
eggs and dairy ingredients
Potatoes ................................................ 57
Seafood MAKE AHEAD: Can be
Grilled Okra with Orange-Shallot completely prepared
Citrus-Marinated Grilled Salmon ..58
Vinaigrette ............................................24 ahead (may need hands-
off cooking, baking, or
Cured Trout ..........................................43
Japanese-Style Grilled Corn...........58 reheating to serve)
Grilled Sea Bass and Potatoes
Miso-Grilled Summer Squash QUICK: Under 30 minutes
with Pimento-Chive Dressing ........ 16
with Black Sesame Salt ....................58
Pineapple-Lime-Ginger Scallop
Salt-Baked Kohlrabi
Ceviche ..................................................35
with Turnips ..........................................43
Salmon and Asparagus Skewers
Sesame Asparagus with
with Aïoli ................................................22
Quick-Pickled Radish ........................58

Beef & Pork Sour Cherry Persian Rice .................62 What to drink
Aspargi e Prosciutto (Asparagus
with what’s in this issue
Select recipes in this issue
and Prosciutto) Pinsa ...................... 46 include pairings by our drinks editor,
Jill Silverman Hough.

82 4 7 < 3  1 = = 9 7 < 5  ’  8 C < 3  8 C :G   

 DON’T JUST
MAKE A DISH. MAKE
I T YO U R OW N .

MADE WITH MILK FROM GRASS-FED COWS

T H AT G R A Z E O N T H E LUS H PA ST U RES O F I RE L A N D.
Cook, eat,
enjoy, repeat. facebook.com/ColavitaUSA
ColavitaUSA
youtube.com/ColavitaUSA
Find these grilling recipes @ColavitaUSA
A FAMILY. A BRAND. A LIFESTYLE. and others on COLAVITA.COM ColavitaUSA