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NOVEMBER 2020 | VOTED MAGAZINE BRAND OF THE YEAR

+ EXPLORE
AUSTRALIA!
ROTTNEST
ISLAND,
BAROSSA
VALLEY &
CENTRAL
COAST

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CAKE
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RECIPES
COFFEE ICE CREAM
WITH FRANGELICO
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+ BEST OF AUS: ALL-NEW DINNERS


+ PIZZAS, SPRITZES & SALADS
+ MATT MORAN’S TOP 5 PIES BONUS! TURN OVER FOR THE
+ NEXT-LEVEL MUD CAKES PRODUCE AWARDS MINI MAG

YOTAM BILL GRANGER MAGGIE BEER


OTTOLENGHI Exclusive extract: Australia’s top
Oat & tahini cookies Australian Food producers 2020
NOVEMBER
CONTENTS

68
CONTENTS.

REGULARS
6 Ed’s Letter
8 Talk to Us
12 Menus
33 Insider: News
The latest restaurant news, product
reviews and the latest trends.
38 Critic and the Comic
Mike Bennie and Merrick Watts bring
up some retro drinks as they discuss
this month’s food-and-wine match.
40 Yotam Ottolenghi
The flavour maestro makes an all-new
cookie that’s full of crunch, texture
and sweetness.
42 Subscribe to delicious.
44 Cheese Counter
Sam and Ellie Studd on the finest
blue cheese in Australia.
46 I’m Loving
Matt Preston goes back in time to
when canapes were king.
114 Insider: Travel
The latest trends in travel and new

96
places to holiday in Australia.
129 Passport
Clare Smyth’s top London spots.

FOLLOW US...
SAVOUR
96 Wicked
Mud cakes get a makeover courtesy
@deliciousAUS
23 In Season of Phoebe Wood and Kirsten Jenkins.
Monopole’s Brent Savage on the

TRAVEL
produce he can’t get enough of. delicious.com.au
50 Entertaining For more delicious. content.
How to make gatherings, no matter 110 Postcard
how small, great again. Why we love Rottnest Island.
ON THE COVER
Affogato ice cream cake with
60 Extract 122 City Guide
Frangelico ‘ice magic’
Bill Granger’s Australian food. You’ll want to see more of Moree
(recipe p 58)
68 One-pan Dinners with our guide of the town’s best.
Recipe Phoebe Wood
Get smart with Dominic Smith’s easy
Photography Brett Stevens

PRODUCE
all-in-one recipes. Styling Kirsten Jenkins
76 Extract

AWARDS
Colin Fassnidge’s new book will
make you a more confident cook.
84 Matt Moran 4 And The Winners Are… OFFICIAL DELICIOUS.
The top chef has his eyes firmly on Meet the winners of the TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER:
Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat
the pies as he bakes the best. 2020 delicious. Harvey Norman (vicsmeat.com.au).
90 Extract Produce Awards.
Top tips for sustainable eating, from 14 The Chef, Butcher & Farmer
Feather and Bone’s Laura Dalrymple Colin Fassnidge, Anthony Puharich
and Grant Hilliard. and Gerry Harvey do lunch.

delicious.com.au 5
ED’S LETTER.

PRODUCE TO YOU
What to do when our award-winning
producers could no longer supply to restaurants
in isolation? We found a way to bring the produce to
you! Our new box, in partnership with Harvey Norman
and Vic’s Meat (owner Anthony Puharich is our regular
columnist and expert on the Produce Awards panel), is
available at delicious.com.au/producetoyou. Turn to page
37 for more information, and for more on our inaugural
virtual cook-up on October 26, starring Australia’s top
chefs, head to delicious.com.au.
E M B R AC E
T H E
INBOX.

TO US
SILVER LINING: I am not putting it lightly when I say that
AUGUST MOS LIKED POST my delicious. magazine subscription has given me purpose during
Melbourne’s lockdowns. Whenever I hit a low point on the
‘coronacoaster’ your magazine appears in my letterbox like a

#MAKEITDELICIOUS
B’stilla, my beating Godsend. I read, I cook, I devour. Furthermore, the delicious. Bake
heart. Who could not Club monthly competitions keep my mind challenged, my hands
feel such affection for this busy and excitement bubbling. You truly are a shining light through
seductively sweet and spicy
the glumness of 2020. Maria Alfonzetti
Moroccan chicken pie? The
recipe traditionally calls for
squab or pigeon but we think
DECK THE HALLS: Going through the September issue,
chicken works just fine. Go to I am so very happy. In these strange times I am excited to see the
delicious.com.au for the Middle Eastern dishes, and what is most exciting is starting to pick
recipe. Recipe and out the ones to make for Christmas lunch (never too early to see this
Styling: @kirstenjenkins year off!) I cannot wait to make the roasted lamb leg with lemon,
Photography: @chriscourt olives and spring veg (p 38) and for dessert it’s a toss between
muhallabia (p 50) or the orange blossom semolina pudding (p 58).
Either way, I’m sure my guests will love it! Thanks team. Fahmi Talib

FAMILY MATTERS: During these trying times, my partner


MAKE THE COVER RECIPE
NOVEMBER 2020 | VOTED MAGAZINE BRAND OF THE YEAR

and I have been fortunate enough to move back home with my


parents. Family dinners – synonymous with my childhood – have + EXPLORE
AUSTRALIA!
ROTTNEST
Your go-to caffeinated dessert just
ISLAND,

become a regular occurrence again. I’ll delve into the August issue BAROSSA
VALLEY &
CENTRAL
COAST
got a summer makeover. We’ve
to make a mouthwatering leek and silverbeet tart (p 71) or slow- turned an affogato into an ice cream
cooked lamb shoulder (p 80). Mum, with her endless repertoire of cake topped with a Frangelico
incredible home cooking, will add hot fresh-baked bread and AFFOGATO ‘ice magic’ for a boozy twist.
CAKE
something lusciously sweet for dessert. Cooking and swapping 80 +
RECIPES
COFFEE ICE CREAM
WITH FRANGELICO
‘ICE MAGIC’ Show us your creation by tagging
+ BEST OF AUS: ALL-NEW DINNERS

recipes has become our new way to bond. What a joy to be + PIZZAS, SPRITZES & SALADS
+ MATT MORAN’S TOP 5 PIES
+ NEXT-LEVEL MUD CAKES
BONUS! TURN OVER FOR THE
PRODUCE AWARDS MINI MAG
@delciousaus and #makeitdelicious
YOTAM BILL GRANGER MAGGIE BEER

together with those you love, sharing good wine and a delicious. OTTOLENGHI
Oat & tahini cookies
Exclusive extract:
Australian Food
Australia’s top
producers 2020

meal! - Florence Legg-Bagg

delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters, posts and comments.
THE WINNER IS…
I just wanted to thank you all for providing some much-needed inspiration! My husband and I have been

or write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.


vegetarian for about six months and have found we end up eating the same few dishes. When our vegie box

Send your emails to delicious@newslifemedia.com.au


from our local produce provider arrived last week, I was determined to spice up our vegie life. I never
realised when we ate meat how many vegetarian recipes there are in delicious. – our menu for the week was
easily sorted! We have silverbeet borek with feta, leek and Pyengana cheddar pithivier, rice noodles, celery
and tofu salad with chilli oil, herby polenta with corn, eggs and feta, potato, white bean & kale soup with
parmesan sourdough, agedeshi tofu, edamame shichimi and spring onion pancakes, fritto misto di Milano and Jo Barrett’s zucchini,
ricotta and sundried tomato lasagne all topped off with the Amalfi lemon cake! Thanks for providing such a delightful culinary
experience. We feel like we have travelled the world in the past week. Sinead Blaber

ED’S NOTE: Congratulations, Sinead! You’ve won a Nespresso Vertuo Next Deluxe Dark Chrome & Barista bundle, valued at
$519. The sleek coffee machine brews five different cup sizes at the touch of a button to fill the whole family’s orders. The Vertuo
is also the first Nespresso machine made with 54 per cent recycled plastics.

8 delicious.com.au
Chef Ben Sinfield has a
passion for the pig.
His ethos is strong - from farm,
to product, to the plate.
Ben’s “nose to tail” philosophy
shines through in every one of
his creations.
This quiet achiever has a
deep unwavering passion for
his craft, his producer and
everything pork.
He is a PorkStar.

porkstar.com.au
A craftsman at each step, from making
his own smallgoods to delivering
delicious modern dishes.
Chef Mike Eggert works closely with his
pig farmers at Taluca Park Free Range to
deliver exceptional produce.
He believes there is a special quality
in pork that no other protein has.
It’s magical - the fat, the flavour,
the texture.
He is a PorkStar.

porkstar.com.au
E A S Y E ATING SUPER SA L A DS TA S T E O F SU M MER

Mixed grains with


greens, smoked
trout and yoghurt
presents

G E NE R ATION
PERFECTION
Kit out your kitchen with the latest
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TOUCH TO OPEN
Miele appliances in Graphite Grey, from left:
ArtLine Speed Oven, with M Touch display,
microwave and fan grill functions, and food
probe, H7840BMXGG, $6,399; Handleless
Warming Drawer, featuring Push2open and
slow cooking function, ESW7010GG, $1,999;
60cm ArtLine Pyrolytic M Touch Oven (shown
twice), with Moisture Plus, FoodView camera
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Water +, DualSteam, DGC7845XALGG, $9,199;
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Miele CombiSet cooktop, from left:
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Miele appliances in Obsidian Black, from left:
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cooking, ESW7010B, $1,999 (also shown below the
Coffee Machine); 60cm PureLine CleanSteel Oven,
with food probe, MoisturePlus, Pyrofit accessories,
and TasteControl to ensure food never overcooks,
H7464BPPLCLST, $5,599; PureLine CleanSteel
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SHOP AT YOUR LOCAL STORE, ONLINE AT HN.COM.AU OR CALL 1300 464 278
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“in store” only. Call 1300 GO HARVEY (1300 464 278) before attending a Harvey Norman Complex to enquire as to whether a franchisee at that complex has the goods on display or available. Offer ends 31/12/2020.
WINE MATCH: YALUMBA
BAROSSA BUSH VINE GRENACHE
“Instead of classic white with seafood,
go for a light red like this grenache.”
– Jessica Hill-Smith, winemaker
“I ESPECIALLY
LOVE EATING
MANGOES IN
SPRING, WHEN
THEY COME BACK
INTO SEASON, AS
THEY ARE SWEET
BUT A TOUCH
SOUR. YOU CAN’T
GO PAST EATING
THEM STRAIGHT
FROM THE SKIN.
I ALSO LOVE
SWEET CORN AS
IT LENDS ITSELF
TO EITHER SWEET
OR SAVOURY
COOKING.”
MARKET BASKET
BY BRENT SAVAGE
MANGO
“Mangoes are versatile and refreshing.
I especially love eating them in spring
when they come back into season, as
they are sweet but a touch sour. You
can’t go past the obvious – scooped out
and eaten straight from the skin. It’s also
fantastic blended through a smoothie –
fresh or frozen.”
SWEET CORN
“I love sweet corn as it lends itself to
either sweet or savoury cooking. In the
past I’ve made beautiful sweet corn
custard desserts served with saffron rice p g
for my take on a rice pudding. I also the end of the tunnel.
often roast sweet corn over a barbecue, @brent_savage
garnished with butter, lime, black pepper SYDNEY’S MOODIEST VENUE will soon
and chilli sauce.” be stepping out of the shadows with a back to its slinky self, with a sophisticated
BUTTER LETTUCE fresh new site secured on Hunter Street selection of wine and snacks.
“Butter lettuce is one of my favourites in the centre of the Sydney CBD. “Nick Curated by co-owner and sommelier
because when it’s fresh, it’s crisp and [Hildebrandt] and I felt that Monopole Nick Hildebrandt, the wine list promises
perfect as a side dish with a simple was ready for its next evolution and to be just as varied as ever, with an
lemon vinaigrette. Or you can pimp it up we’ve always wanted to have a wine bar emphasis on wines by the glass. “The
to become the base of a chicken caesar, in the city,” says co-owner of The Bentley wine list will be ever changing, featuring
or a nicoise salad like we plan to do at Group, Brent Savage. a dynamic mix of local and imported
Monopole.” The restaurant’s black-on-black colour wines. We plan to have weekly Happy
MORETON BAY BUGS scheme has been banished, with Hours and a special winemaker series
“November is a great time of year for architect Pascale Gomes-McNabb featuring Nick’s favourite producers.”
Moreton Bay bugs as they have really rebuilding in blonde timber with accents Taking over the original Monopole site
started to run down the east coast. of coral pink and blue. “The space will on MacLeay Street will be Ria Pizza +
I usually roast the bugs over a charcoal feel different,” Savage says. “The colour Wine, a new pizza bar by the Bentley
grill as it really brings out the sweetness palette will be lighter than the current boys. The new dine-in and takeaway
of the meat. Dressed with a compound Monopole concept and the atmosphere venue will dish out Australian-style
butter or an XO sauce, you can’t will be a bit more urban.” sourdough pizzas topped with seasonal
go wrong.” For the first time, the late-night venue ingredients. “Nick and I both love pizza,
will also see the sunlight. The new and after many conversations about our
Monopole will open its doors during the favourite styles and toppings, we finally
delicious.com.au/recipes day for classic bistro fare like steak frites, convinced ourselves that it would be a
For more dishes that celebrate Moreton Bay bug rolls and salad nicoise. great idea to turn the existing site into
fresh seasonal produce.
In the evening, the restaurant will revert a neighbourhood pizza bar.”
When passionate Aussie pig farmers like
Anne-Marie & Frank come together with
chefs Ben Sinfield & Mike Eggert, magic happens!
Sharing skills, knowledge and passion,
they bring joy to all things pork.
They are PorkStars.

Left to right
Chef Ben Sinfield – Bahn Xeo Anne-Maria & Frank Vigliante – Taluca Park Free Range Chef Mike Eggert - Totti’s
porkstar.com.au
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JUMP FOR JOY
Let artisan chocolatier Koko Black take you
back to the good old days with its new range
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all the birthday-party favourites, from
lamingtons to Iced Vovos, honey joys and
chocolate crackles. Assert your adult rights
and go The Ultimate Classic Collection

LIVING THE DREAM


Hamper ($169), which includes one of
everything. kokoblack.com.

Kip & Co. has teamed up with the Bábbarra


Women’s Centre in Maningrida to launch a new
collection of richly coloured textiles. From bedding
to napery, each piece tells a story of Arnhem Land
and its people and culture. kipandco.com.au

GO WITH THE GRAIN


A new craft vodka is shaking up the
Australian spirits industry. Made from
locally grown grains, the Grainshaker range
includes a rye, wheat and barley vodka, each
with its own distinct characters and finish.
$55 (700ml) from grainshaker.com.au

South African-turned-South Australian chef


PHOTOGRAPHY GUY DAVIES

Duncan Welgemoed has just released his first


cookbook. Named after his Adelaide restaurant
Africola (Murdoch Books, $49.99), it features all the
big, bold dishes for which the diner is known,
boom shakalaka sauce included.

34 delicious.com.au
4

2
3

Rustic but refined, locally crafted homewares ad


a touch of the country to your home. Straight-from
nature materials enhance the charm.
1. Winestains Travel Picnic Stake, $49, winestains.
com.au 2. Chapel & Co Cafe apron in white and
14
black stripe, $29.50, chapelandco.com 3. 1803

A
kitchen knives, $550 each, 1803.com.au
4. Marz Designs bronze bottle openers, $99,
marzdesigns.com 5. Deva raw chocolates, $10.50
each, devacacao.com.au 6. Saggar fired
stoneware plate 28cm, $110, madeofaustralia.
com 7. Our Place Edition II scented candle, $65,
southernwildco.com.au 8. Basalt Stoneware
fermentation pot, $220, kinfolkandco.com
9. & 10. Pony Rider Highlander cushion in 9
nutmeg, $109, and Camp Out bean bag in khaki,
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wooden bowls, from $60 each, turnerandturner.
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Jiinda, $850, miimiandjiinda.com 13. Robert
Gordon Terra plate setting in Storm, $84,
robertgordonaustralia.com 14. Mark Tuckey

12

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36 delicious.com.au
I NTRO D U C E S TH E

For more than 15 years, the delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards has been dedicated to shining
the spotlight on Australian producers and recognising the best produce this country has to offer.

After one of the most challenging years the industry has faced, there is no better time to
support our producers. To do our part, delicious. has partnered with Vic’s Premium Quality Meat
to create the #ProduceToYou box – a specially curated selection of award-winning produce including
cheese, meat, wine and more, that you can purchase and have delivered directly to your door.

For more information on how to get yours, visit

DELICIOUS.COM.AU/PRODUCETOYOU
THE CRITIC’S PICKS

YANGARRA BLANC
2020, $26
A refreshing blend of Rhone
Valley white-grape varieties
but made from a
biodynamic-farmed
vineyard in McLaren Vale.
It’s crunchy and fresh with
lemon juice-squeezed-on-
green-apple flavours. It cuts
the creamy texture of the

CRITIC & THE COMIC


cheese perfectly. Yum.

BELGROVE POMMEAU,

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT $48


It weighs in at a relatively
low 20% alcohol and is
made from distilled apple
cider with apple juice

MERCHANDISING MONTANA VALICH MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESS
blended in. It’s bright,
gently sweet and utterly
seductive drinking. Best
served over ice on its

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
own, though a splash of
soda is also fine.

SOBAH DAVIDSON
PLUM GLUTEN FREE
ALE, $5
This is a great match with
this dish, showing tart and
sweet Davidson plum
flavours, a gentle
sourness that’s refreshing,
light and zesty. It’s great
to drink with the pleasing
bite to the cheese.

THE COMIC’S WILDCARD

TOOHEYS OLD
DARK ALE, $7
Ale and cheese are old
mates, but fennel has been
invited to the party so the
dark, gently bitter nature
of this beer will act as the
mix tape to get this house
party started.
CRITIC & THE COMIC.

Ashed goat’s cheese with


candied fennel and walnuts (find
the recipe at delicious.com.au)

“I love the idea of matching a retro drop


to bring out the standout elements of this
dish. The sweetness of the Calvados will
temper the salt in the cheese and the
fennel’s strong flavour.”– Phoebe Wood,
delicious. food director

For more on the latest in the


world of drinks, head to
delicious.com.au/drinks
YOTAM OTTOLENGHI.

DREAM
TEAM
Yotam Ottolenghi enlists tahini, wicked chocolate and wholesome
oats in his latest sweet bites. And with nutty hazelnuts and sesame
rounding out the flavours, this is the cookie crew we want in on.

OAT & TAHINI COOKIES In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,


MAKES 20 baking powder, 1/4 tsp salt, oats, orange
zest, hazelnuts and sesame seeds.
80g softened unsalted butter, cut into Add the dry ingredients to the stand
2cm cubes mixer bowl and mix on low speed until
50g packed dark-brown sugar well blended.
1/ 2 cup (110g) caster sugar Line two baking trays with baking paper.
1 egg Form 20 rough balls of dough (they should
1/ 2 tsp vanilla extract be about 4-5cm wide) and arrange on the

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN LOVEKIN STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
60g hulled tahini prepared trays, about 4cm apart.

MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART THIS RECIPE WAS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN THE NEW YORK TIMES.
1/ 3 cup (50g) plain flour Bake for 7-8 minutes, rotating the pans
1/ 2 tsp baking powder halfway through, and then remove from
140g rolled oats, roughly chopped in a the oven while the cookies are not quite
food processor cooked. Place a piece of halvah in the
1 tsp finely grated orange zest (from half middle of each cookie and return to the
a small orange) oven for another 4-5 minutes until cookies
2 / 3 cup (100g) blanched hazelnuts, are golden brown around the edges and
toasted, chopped into 5mm pieces the halvah has started to melt. Remove
1 tbs toasted white sesame seeds from the oven and set aside to cool for
100g plain halvah, broken into about 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to
20 pieces roughly, 2cm wide cool completely.
1/ 3 cup 60g dark chocolate, roughly Place chocolate in a medium heatproof
chopped bowl and place over a pan of simmering
water, taking care that the base of the bowl
Preheat the oven to 200°C. is not touching the water. Cook chocolate,
Place butter and both sugars in the stirring occasionally, until melted. Remove
bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle from the heat and set aside.
attachment (or use a hand-held electric Transfer the cookies back to one of the
mixer). Mix on medium speed for baking sheets so they fit snugly together.
2-3 minutes until light and fluffy. Add Using a teaspoon, drizzle the melted
egg, vanilla and 11/2 tbs water and chocolate over the cookies to create thin
continue mixing until combined, then stripes (or zigzags) all in the same
blend in the tahini. (You may need to stop direction. Don’t worry about being exact
the machine and scrape down the sides with this as the cookies should look rustic.
of the bowl with a spatula a few times to Set aside for the chocolate to harden,
help it combine.) then serve.

40 delicious.com.au
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delicious.com.au 43
CHEESE COUNTER.

TRUE
BLUE
Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Stilton,

is breaking the mould, with its unique

@thestuddsiblings

BLUE IS HOW WE’VE ALL FELT at times veins. It’s spicy and a little smoky to cut 1 large fennel bulb, trimmed, shaved on
this year, but we are here to show you that through the ewe’s milk sweetness. a mandoline
blue doesn’t have to be sad, especially 1 large sweet red apple, sliced thinly into
when it comes to Australian cheese! SERVE & STORE rounds
Australia produces some world-class Despite its reputation, not all blue cheese 2 tbs lemon juice
farmstead blue cheeses. Our favourites are will knock your socks off with strong 200g blue cheese, crumbled
from Gippsland, Victoria. Its rolling green flavour. There are more subtle blues, and
hills are dotted with more than 1,400 dairy some can be sweet, savoury or spicy. Place the macadamias in a large bowl and
farms, with 400,000 cows that produce Balance the saltiness with honey, figs, drizzle over olive oil. Season to taste and
over two billion litres of milk every year. compote and even chocolate! Blue also toss to combine.
These are our top picks: pairs beautifully with sticky wine or stout. Heat a medium non-stick frypan over

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


TARAGO RIVER GIPPSLAND BLUE (COW) It’s best to store blue cheese separately, medium-low heat. Add the macadamias
Australia’s first farmhouse blue cheese is as its mould can transfer to other cheeses. and cook, tossing, for 5-6 minutes until
a spin on the famous Italian Gorgonzola Wrap in wax paper, then foil. roasted and lightly golden. Drizzle over
dolce. Housed in a natural rind, this the honey and cook, tossing frequently, for
Gippsland blue has a pudding consistency CELERY, FENNEL, CANDIED 1-2 minutes until combined. Set aside to
with a hint of sweetness. We call this one MACADAMIA AND BLUE CHEESE cool completely at room temperature.
‘blue heaven’. SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL OR SIDE Combine the celery stalk, fennel, apple
BERRY’S CREEK RIVERINE BLUE (BUFFALO) and lemon juice in a large bowl and coat
Berry’s Creek in Woodside, Gippsland 1/ 2cup (75g) toasted macadamias, with olive oil. Season to taste and toss
makes one of Australia’s best buffalo blue coarsely chopped gently to combine. Place on a large
cheese from its small herd of water buffalo. 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil, serving platter and top with candied
With ivory tones, it offers a sweet finish. plus extra to drizzle macadamias, crumbled blue cheese, and
PROM COUNTRY VENUS BLUE (SHEEP) 1 tbs runny honey celery leaves to garnish. Drizzle with extra
This has a natural crusted rind, and an 4 inner celery stalks, thinly sliced on the olive oil and scatter with freshly ground
ivory paste marbled with greenish-blue diagonal, leaves reserved to garnish black pepper to serve.

44 delicious.com.au
I’M LOVING.

I LOVE... or a Thai salad – and even the spiced-nut mix purchased from the
local gourmet store being served in lots of individual ramekins.

CANAPE
I do see one thing that definitely will not change. Party pies and
sausages rolls have been forever there, and will remain.
I remember being quite forcibly told by my exasperated co-host

CULTURE that an Aussie drinks party where party pies and sausage rolls
didn’t make an appearance was like “Christmas without Santa”.
I’m not sure it even matters what the filling is – vegan, vegetarian
What’s the future of party food in a post or proudly traditional – every Australian knows both these are
pandemic world? Matt Preston investigates. sacrosanct and I suggest that this ensures their survival. Time will
tell whether we end up still handing around a tractor-tyre-sized
THIS IS NORMALLY the party issue of delicious. but, to be brutal, platter of flaky meat-filled delights with that red nectar of the Gods
there’s not been a lot to celebrate in 2020. Then there’s the whole we call ‘sauce’ on the side for double-dipping, or serving them
new-era-party-complexity of navigating what regionally varying individually plated with a splodge of fancy homemade tomato
advice to follow: how many people can you have round? Do they relish. Either way, I suspect they will still get the big thumbs-up
have to wear masks if they are eating cocktail food? Do they be whether you are throwing a party for two or 20.
seated and distanced? Are Victorians allowed yet? Of course, you could just swear off the party circuit altogether
I’ve always believed that two people make a party and with that and just settle in for good book, a nice cup of tea and a couple of
in mind – even though there is no party issue here – why shouldn’t squares of this slice. Simple to bake, it’s the sort of treat that makes
we have a little celebration about how far party food has come in staying in a party all of its own.
just a couple of generations?
My 1973 New World Encyclopedia of Cooking has pages of CARAMELISED HONEY AND ALMOND SLICE
advice about cocktails, but only this to say about the food to serve MAKES APPROX. 16 SLICES
at cocktail hour: “It should be both delicious and attractive. Two
kinds are enough – perhaps a piquant dip served with crisp 90g unsalted butter, melted
crackers or potato chips, and a tiny hot appetiser like cheese balls.” 120g brown sugar
We should probably take the phrase “delicious and attractive” 1 cup (150g) plain flour
with a grain of iodised table salt. Back then, stylish presentation 1/ 2 cup (70g) almond meal

meant jabbing skewers of cabanossi and cubed tasty cheese into


the skin of a halved grapefruit and presenting your piquant spinach ALMOND TOPPING
dip in a cob loaf. And while Saladas loaded with tinned smoked 125g unsalted butter
oysters might taste okay, they are not pretty. 95g runny honey
The only thing that seems to have survived from a 1970s canape 11/ 2 cups (200g) slivered almonds
menu is the devilled egg. This is perhaps thanks to the retro
resurgence of the past few years that also saw vol-au-vents, mini Preheat oven to 170°C. Grease a 19cm x 30cm slice pan and line
quiches and ‘devils on horseback’ ride back into drinks party town. the base and sides with baking paper. (If you do not have a tray this
I was happy with two of these, and surely roasted prunes wrapped size, use a similar, smaller pan rather than a large one. This is a thin
in bacon was an idea way ahead of its time anyway. slice and the mixture may not be enough to fill a large pan.)

PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


But we have come very far. It is now more likely that those Combine the butter, sugar, flour and almond meal in a large
smoked-oyster Saladas have been replaced with a gluten-free curl bowl and mix well to combine (if the mix seems floury, add a little
of smoked salmon sitting on a slice of cucumber topped with a extra butter). Spread evenly over the base of the prepared pan.
little plush of dill, that cob loaf superceded by a plate of Peking Bake for 12-15 minutes until lightly golden. Remove from the oven
duck wraps or a platter of sushi rolls, and that early hack recipe for and stand on a wire rack.
‘nuts ‘n’ bolts’ retired in favour of a bowl of smoked almonds (which Meanwhile, to make the topping, place the butter and honey in
must have been a sad day for all that relished cereal and peanuts a small heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Simmer, stirring
tossed with packet French onion soup mix). occasionally, for 3-4 minutes until mixture is lightly caramelised.
The big question, however, is what is the future for finger food, Stir in the nuts. Pour evenly over the cooked base. Bake for a
canapes and those much-loved ‘horse doovers’ in the new further 12-15 minutes until golden. Remove and stand on a wire
Covid-normal world? Is the party over for party food? rack and cool completely. Cut into slices to serve.
Certainly, I can see a desire to move away from buffet spreads
and platters being offered around to be pawed over by the throng. @mattscravat
I would expect the growth of serving more small individual dishes
Visit delicious.com.au for
– what the caterers call ‘bowl food’, think a pile of one-bite tortellini more recipes from Matt.

46 delicious.com.au
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In a
light

Phoebe Wood’s modern Italian dishes


welcome the new season, when easy eating
is in order. From kingfish crudo with a tangy
dressing, and tasty pizzas with pickled
toppings, to the affogato ice cream cake of
your dreams, these are the plates of summer.
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

50 delicious.com.au
RIGHT: prawn, lemon
thyme and tomato pasta
(recipe p 52). ABOVE:
grilled greens with
pecorino, garlic and chilli
OPPOSITE: radicchio
with herby buttermilk
dressing (recipes p 57).
Kingfish with
parsley and
preserved
lemon dressing
ENTERTAINING.

Three-cheese
& basil pizza
(recipe p 58).
WINE MATCH: YALUMBA
BAROSSA SHIRAZ
“Yalumba Barossa Shiraz – fruit-
driven, generous and moreish –
is perfect for spicy salami pizza.”
– Jessica Hill-Smith, winemaker

delicious.com.au 55
BOY OZ
“IF YOU’RE FEELING FANCY
AND OWN A MANDOLINE
(THE WORLD’S MOST
TERRIFYING KITCHEN
INSTRUMENT) THEN USE
IT HERE TO GIVE THE
POTATOES A LOVELY
LACY FEEL.”
EXTRACT.

I HAVE ALWAYS believed Australia serves the sort of food that


brings people together – over coffee, over communal tables,
over all-day menus – and makes us all feel good.
There’s no ‘set menu’ for Australia. We’re up for anything
and open to change. We thrive on sushi one day, pasta the
next, fish and chips by the sea, octopus marinated Greek style,
yum cha on Sunday mornings.
Choosing the 100-odd recipes for this book has made me
take time to think about those magical elements that clicked all
those years ago, and how my own particular menu of ‘Australian
food’ came about and evolved. I stand by what I said about this in 2002: the best
restaurants in the world have a strong sense of place. They belong where they are.
Images and text from Australian Food by Bill Granger (Murdoch Books, $49.99).
Photography by Mikkel Vang.

@bill.granger

POTATO & FETA FRITTERS WITH a time, depending on the size of your pan CASHEW SATAY
SMOKED SALMON & DILL OIL (this mixture should make 8-10 fritters). 120g raw cashews
SERVES 4 Cook on both sides until golden brown. 1/ 2cup (125ml) coconut milk
To make the dill oil, blend or whisk all the 1 tsp each ground cumin, ground
500g desiree or other starchy potatoes ingredients. coriander and ground turmeric
1 small onion To poach the eggs, bring 5cm of water 2 tbs kecap manis
2 eggs to the boil in a frying pan. Turn off the heat 1 tsp tamarind puree
2 tbs chopped mint and immediately add the eggs. To
3 tbs crumbled feta minimise spreading, break the egg directly PINEAPPLE & CUCUMBER RELISH
3 tbs plain flour into the water, opening the two halves of 1 eschalot, finely chopped
1/ 3 cup (80ml) light-flavoured oil, to fry the shell at the surface so the egg slides in. 1 Lebanese cucumber, diced
Cover with a tight-fitting lid and leave 100g fresh pineapple, diced
DILL OIL undisturbed for about 3 minutes. The eggs 1/ 2 tsp salt

2 cups loosely packed (50g) dill, are cooked when the whites are opaque. 2 tbs rice wine vinegar
finely chopped Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon
100ml olive oil and drain on kitchen paper. Mix together the sesame oil, kecap manis,
Zest and juice of 1/ 2 lemon Serve the fritters topped with a little cumin, coriander, turmeric, agave,
sour cream, poached eggs, a sprinkle of lemongrass, garlic and ginger in a
TO SERVE sumac and a drizzle of dill oil. Serve with non-reactive dish to make a marinade. Add
8 eggs salmon or gravlax and lemon wedges. the pork chops, stir to coat and leave to
125g sour cream marinate in the fridge for at least 12 hours.
1 tbs ground sumac GRILLED PORK CHOPS & CASHEW To make the cashew satay, preheat the
250g smoked salmon or gravlax SATAY WITH PINEAPPLE & oven to 180˚C and roast the cashews on a
1 lemon, cut into wedges CUCUMBER RELISH baking tray for 8-10 minutes or until golden
SERVES 4 brown. While still warm, mix in a blender
Peel and grate the potatoes and onion into Begin this recipe at least 12 hours ahead. with the other ingredients to make a
a colander, stir in a little salt and leave to smooth sauce. Leave to cool and then
drain for 20 minutes. Squeeze out any 1 tbs each sesame oil and kecap manis store in an airtight container in the fridge if
moisture with your hands. 1 tsp each ground cumin, ground necessary until needed.
Beat the eggs lightly and mix with the coriander and ground turmeric To make the pineapple and cucumber
potatoes and onion. Stir in the mint, feta 1 tsp agave syrup or sugar relish, stir together all the ingredients and
and flour. Season well with sea salt and 1 lemongrass stalk, white part only, keep in the fridge until needed.
freshly ground black pepper. bruised and roughly chopped Heat a barbecue until hot and ready
Heat the oil in a large frypan. Add 2 tbs 1 garlic clove, crushed to cook on. Lift the pork chops out of the
fritter mixture to the pan and squash lightly 2cm piece fresh ginger, peeled, grated marinade and cook for 4-5 minutes on each
to make a 7cm pancake. Cook 2-3 fritters at 4 x 260g each pork chops side until charred and cooked through.

delicious.com.au 63
EXTRACT.

Leave to rest for a few minutes, then serve


with the cashew satay and relish.

Summer chopped
salad with citrus
sesame dressing

chopped

roughly chopped

1/ 2 lime

ribbons

coriander leaves
For the chilli sambal, mix the chillies,
garlic, galangal, ginger and eschalot to
a paste in a small food processor or
mortar and pestle. Heat the oil in a frying
pan over medium heat and fry the paste
for 5-8 minutes until dark red and fragrant.
Add the chilli flakes and palm sugar and
stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the tamarind
paste and tamari and cook for a further
2-5 minutes until the sauce is thick. Remove
from the heat, add the lime juice and leave
to cool. This can be stored in the fridge for
up to a month.
To make the tofu scramble, heat the oil
in a large non-stick frying pan over
medium-high heat. Fry the garlic and
ginger for 1 minute, then add the spring
onions, curry powder, turmeric and
coriander and fry, stirring, for a further
minute. Crumble in the silken tofu and stir
to coat in the spice mixture – the tofu will
look like scrambled eggs.
Toss together the cabbage, cucumber
and herbs with the lime juice and a good
splash of olive oil. Season well.
EXTRACT.

delicious.com.au 67
ONE-PAN DINNERS.

ONE PAN

Dominic Smith uses the very simple but


genius cooking hack of doing it all in one
pan. The dishes may be varied – pasta,
roast, bakes – but the idea is universal:
get smart to get the most flavour.
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
Roasted chicken, fennel,
silverbeet and potato bake
OPPOSITE: pasta primavera,
leeks, zuchinni & ricotta
(recipes p 72).

WINE MATCH: YALUMBA


THE VIRGILIUS VIOGNIER
“This luscious white will
complement that fennel spice!”
– Jessica Hill-Smith, winemaker
70 delicious.com.au
“A SUPER-BRIGHT HERB
GREMOLATA INSTANTLY FRESHENS
UP THIS COMFORTING RISONI-
AND-MEATBALL NUMBER.”
ONE-PAN DINNERS.
“CRUNCHY POPS OF GREEN
PLUS ZESTY LEMON EQUALS
ONE TASTY RISOTTO.”

Asparagus risotto with


preserved lemon and feta
“THERE ARE SOME
DISHES THAT TAKE
ME BACK TO AN
EXACT TIME AND
PLACE IN MY LIFE.”

Barbecued lamb leg on a


brick with chimichurri (recipe
p 80). RIGHT: greens and
ricotta turnover (recipe p 78).
“COMFORT FOOD
IS ALL ABOUT
THE DISHES THAT
ARE CLOSE TO
YOUR HEART.”
Caramelised onion
and tomato tart
Rhubarb jam
doughnuts
EASY AS PIE

What’s more Aussie than a savoury pie?


Matt Moran serves the stellar favourite in
style, and makes flaky pastry flourish with
fillings that deliver the flavour.

WORDS CORINNE PARKES PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

84 delicious.com.au
MATT MORAN.
“IT HAS TO be classic Aussie beef – and tomato sauce is
essential.” Matt Moran has a clear favourite when it comes
to pies, but is quick to point out the world of possibilities to
explore beyond beef. “Pies are easy to make, easy to eat and
perfect for showcasing seasonal produce.”
From a fresh take on fish pie to an easy cheesy snack,
Moran covers all the bases. Then there’s the lamb and harissa
– “the two flavours are a top pairing,” he says, “being a farm
guy who breeds lambs, I can’t go past it!” – and a “lighter,
more delicate” chicken curry with filo pastry. “Chicken curry
is right up there. A little bit of yoghurt on top of that one
would be good, too. And for another vegetarian hit, it’s got
to be the Moroccan spiced eggplant, a riff on shepherd’s pie.
It’s got all these big flavours, and the texture of eggplant is
perfect for a dish like this.”

@chefmattmoran

Moroccan spiced
eggplant with
cauliflower mash
MATT MORAN.

for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until


sauce has thickened. Return eggplant to
the pan, stirring to combine and cook for
a further 3 minutes or until warmed
through. Remove from the heat, stir
through coriander and remaining lemon
juice. Check seasoning.
Preheat oven grill to high. Spoon
eggplant mixture into a 6-cup capacity
(1.5L) ovenproof dish. Top with cauliflower
mash and drizzle over extra oil. Place on
the highest shelf and grill for 5-10 minutes
until golden. Serve immediately.

SALMON, LEEK & DILL POT PIES


MAKES 4

100g butter
1 leek, washed and thinly sliced
1 celery stick, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/4 cup (60ml) dry white wine

1 tbs plain flour


1 cup (250ml) pure cream
2 tsp wholegrain mustard
Salmon, leek & dill 500g boneless salmon fillets, cut into
pot pies 3cm pieces
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon and
juice of 1/2
MOROCCAN SPICED EGGPLANT salted water. Bring to the boil over high 1/4 cup dill leaves, chopped

WITH CAULIFLOWER MASH heat and cook for 20-25 minutes until 2 frozen butter puff pastry sheets,
SERVES 4 vegetables are tender. Drain well then partially thawed
return to the pan. Add sour cream and half 1 egg, lightly beaten
1 (about 1.5kg), cauliflower, cut into the lemon juice, and mash until smooth.
florets Set aside, covered. Preheat oven to 200°C (180°C fan forced).
500g potatoes, peeled and chopped In 2 batches, heat 1/3 cup (80ml) oil in a Melt butter in a large non-stick frypan
6 garlic cloves, 2 whole and 4 crushed large wide frypan over a high heat. Add over a medium heat. When butter starts to
1/2 cup (125g) sour cream half of the eggplant and cook, stirring foam, add leek, celery and garlic, and
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon regularly, for 8 minutes or until lightly season. Cook, stirring regularly, for
200ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to golden and soft. Using a slotted spoon 7 minutes or until soft. Add wine and
drizzle transfer to a bowl and set aside. Repeat reduce by half. Stir in flour, scraping the
3 eggplants, cut into 4cm wedges with remaining oil and eggplant. bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon
2 tbs tomato paste Heat remaining oil in a large deep frypan for 2 minutes, then gradually stir in cream
400g can chopped tomatoes over a medium heat. Add crushed garlic and mustard. Bring to the boil and cook,
400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant, stirring regularly, for 3-4 minutes until
11/2 tsp each ground cumin, turmeric and then add tomato paste, stirring constantly slightly thickened. Remove from heat and
paprika for 1 minute. Add canned tomato, set aside to cool for 5 minutes. Stir through
1 cup coriander leaves, roughly chopped chickpeas, cumin, turmeric, paprika and salmon, zest, juice, dill. Check seasoning.
lemon zest. Season, then add 1/2 cup Meanwhile, place 1 puff pastry sheet
Place cauliflower, potato and 2 whole garlic (125ml) water, stir to combine and bring to directly on top of another and lightly roll
cloves in a saucepan and cover with cold the boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer with a rolling pin to create a double layer.

delicious.com.au 87
MATT MORAN.

Cut out 4 rounds 11/2 cm bigger than the the edges together and place on prepared CHICKEN CURRY PIE WITH
diameter of the dishes using. Place on tray. Brush the pastry with egg wash and GARLIC FILO
a tray and chill until needed. scatter over pistachio. Bake for 25 minutes SERVES 4
Divide mixture among four 1-cup (250ml) or until pastry is golden brown. Serve with
capacity ovenproof dishes. Brush the baby spinach leaves alongside. 1kg chicken thigh fillets
outside edge with egg wash and place a 1 tbs curry powder
pastry round over the top. Press to seal LAMB & HARISSA PIES 180g ghee
around edges. Brush pastry with egg wash MAKES 4 2 onions, thinly sliced
and sprinkle over salt flakes. Make a small 30 curry leaves, plus extra to scatter
incision on pie tops, then place on a baking 2 tbs olive oil 2 tbs plain flour
tray. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until pastry 1 onion, finely chopped 11/2 cups (375ml) chicken stock
is golden and filling is bubbling hot. Set 500g lamb mince 1/4 cup (80g) store-bought eggplant pickle

aside to cool for 5 minutes before serving. 2 garlic cloves, crushed 120g baby spinach leaves
3/4 cup (210g) tomato paste 2 tbs lemon juice
ZUCCHINI & CHEDDAR PIES 2-3 tbs harissa paste, or to taste 2 garlic cloves, crushed
MAKES 4 1 tbs ras el hanout (Moroccan spice mix) 1 tbs sesame seeds
1 tsp sumac, plus extra 8 filo pastry sheets
500g (about 4) zucchinis, trimmed and 3 tsp dried mint
coarsely grated 1/4 cup (35g) plain flour Preheat oven to 200°C. Place chicken on a
2
1 /3 cup (200g) vintage cheddar, coarsely 11/2 cups (375ml) beef stock large oven tray and scatter over 2 tsp curry
grated 2 frozen shortcrust pastry sheets, partially powder. Season. Roast for 15 minutes or
150g fresh ricotta, crumbled thawed, cut in half diagonally until cooked through. Set aside to cool for
2 long green shallots, finely chopped 2 frozen puff pasty sheets, partially 10 minutes, then chop into 2cm pieces,
1/4 cup each dill and flat-leaf parsley thawed, cut in half diagonally reserving cooking juices.
leaves 1 egg, lightly beaten Meanwhile, heat 1/4 cup (60g) ghee in
2 eggs, lightly beaten, plus 1 extra for a large frypan over a medium-high heat.
egg wash Heat oil in a large non-stick frypan over a Cook onions, stirring, for 7 minutes or until
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring soft. Add curry leaves and remaining 2 tsp
4 frozen shortcrust pastry sheets, regularly, for 5 minutes or until soft. Add curry powder, and cook for a further
partially thawed the mince and garlic, breaking up mince 2 minutes. Sprinkle in flour and cook,
2 tbs pistachios, finely chopped with a wooden spoon, and cook for stirring constantly, for 1 minute or until a
Baby spinach leaves, to serve 7 minutes or until browned. Add tomato sandy consistency. Gradually add stock,
paste, harissa, ras el hanout, sumac and stirring constantly and bring mixture to a
Combine zucchini and 11/2 tsp salt flakes in dried mint, and cook, scraping the bottom boil. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until
a large colander set over a sink and set of the pan with a wooden spoon, for 2 thickened and smooth, then stir through
aside for 20 minutes. minutes. Stir in flour, then gradually add eggplant pickle. Add chicken, cooking
Using your hands, squeeze liquid from stock, stirring continuously. Season and juices and spinach, and cook, stirring, for a
grated zucchini, then transfer to a clean tea bring to the boil. Cook, stirring regularly, further 2 minutes or until spinach is wilted.
towel and wring tightly to squeeze out as for 15-20 minutes until sauce has Remove from the heat and stir through
much liquid as possible. Place zucchini in thickened. Check seasoning then set aside lemon juice, then check seasoning. Pour
a large bowl and add both cheeses, long to cool completely. into a 6-cup (1.5L) capacity ovenproof dish.
green shallot, herbs, eggs and lemon zest. Preheat oven to 200°C. Grease four Heat garlic, sesame seeds and remaining
Check seasoning and stir to combine. 1-cup (250ml) capactiy pie dishes. Line the 1/2 cup (125ml) ghee in a small pan over a

Meanwhile, cut a 20cm round from each base and sides of each dish with shortcrust medium heat for 1 minute or until ghee has
pastry sheet. Place on a tray and set aside pasty and trim. Spoon in lamb mixture. melted and the garlic is fragrant.
to soften slightly. Cover with puff pastry, pressing edges Lay 2 sheets of filo on a clean work
Preheat oven to 200°C. Line 2 large together with a fork to seal. Trim the edges surface. Brush with garlic and ghee
baking trays with baking paper. and lightly brush lids with egg wash. mixture, then scrunch together and lightly
Lay out pastry on a clean work surface. Sprinkle with ground pepper and salt place on top of a pie filling. Repeat with
Divide zucchini mixture among pastry flakes. Place on a baking tray and bake for remaining filo to cover completely. Scatter
rounds and spread evenly, leaving a 5cm 25-30 minutes until golden and crisp. over extra curry leaves and drizzle over any
border. Fold pastry border over to contain Serve immediately. remaining ghee. Bake for 30 minutes or
the filling, leaving centre exposed. Crimp until filo is golden and crisp.

88 delicious.com.au
Food for
Feather and Bone’s
chicken liver pâté
(recipe p 94).
OPPOSITE:
Brendan’s lamb
rump with green
sauce (recipe p 92).
“WE’RE ON THE SIDE OF
FOOD PRODUCTION
SYSTEMS THAT FOSTER
SUSTAINABLE
BIODIVERSITY,
RESILIENCE AND
VITALITY IN SOIL,
PLANT, ANIMAL
AND HUMAN
COMMUNITIES.”
Jehan’s summer salad
with wagyu chuck
“They say three’s a crowd but not
in this instance! The trifecta of
flavours in this mud cake is
second to none.”
– Phoebe Wood
“You could use plain
icing for the base
of this Black Forest
cake, but the chocolate-
and-cherry version
is pure magic.”
– Kirsten Jenkins
TRAVEL
On your bike –
Rottnest Island awaits!
(p 110).
PHOTOGRAPHY SARAH HEWER
ISL AND
A jewel in the Indian Ocean, Max Brearley heads west and dives into all that
Rottnest Island has to offer, from outstanding seafood and natural marvels,
to significant Indigenous history that runs deep.
PHOTOGRAPHY SARAH HEWER
“THERE’S SHELTERED
BEACHES TO SWIM IN,
SNORKELLING ON
SHIPWRECKS, AND
SURF BREAKS.”
notable Fremantle supplier
Fins, beetroot confited,
raw and pickled.
At Pinky’s an all-too-
friendly quokka dubbed

delicious.com.au 113
Exceptional coffee, whatever your style

SMART VERSATILITY SLEEK & SUSTAINABLE


Makes 5 cofee sizes Compact one-touch Over 25 blends of
with the touch of a design made with 54% sustainably sourced
single buton recycled plastic
INSIDER.

ON COUNTRY
what a way to

E S C A P E
118 delicious.com.au
“YALUMBA’S
HISTORIC GROUNDS
ALONE ARE WORTH A
VISIT – BUT REALLY,
IT’S ALL ABOUT
THE WINE.”

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Yalumba vineyards. The Wine Room


entrance at Yalumba winery (inset). Historic buildings at
Yalumba. Vintners Bar & Grill’s Peter Clarke and Rami Heer
with delicious. South Australia editor Jessica Galletly. Barossa
Valley Cheese Company. La Dame Goats Cheese paired with
Yalumba Eden Valley Chardonnay (inset). Yalumba barrels.
Connolly, serves up Green Tangerine. And no trip to the
a vibrant menu Central Coast is complete without
“inspired by food of stopping in at The Boathouse Hotel CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The Wild Flower Bar
& Dining’s Sean Connolly (left) and Bells at Killcare
the sun, from the Patonga, which offers pub-style dining,
owner Brian Barry with delicious. editorial director
Mediterranean to a fish and chip shop, and accommodation, Kerrie McCallum. Oysters at Broken Bay Pearl Farm.
Morocco”, and all with a beach-chic vibe – perfect for Bells at Killcare. The Wild Flower Bar & Dining’s mud
crab and oyster pearl paella paired with Yalumba
featuring local whiling away a sunny afternoon.
Barossa Bush Vine Grenache.

“FOR A LUXURY ESCAPE,


SET YOUR GPS FOR
BELLS AT KILLCARE.”
DISCOVER

AUSTRALIA’S BEST
DRINKS NEWS,
REVIEWS AND
RECIPES...
NOW ON TAP!

MAKE LIFE DELICIOUS.


VISIT DELICIOUS.COM.AU/DRINKS NOW
I
f ever there was a time to get out and explore Australia’s country towns,
with their vast landscapes and rich agriculture, it’s now. And so with a spirit
of adventure, and two weeks of school holidays up our sleeves, we set off to
embrace the land in Moree, a small country town north-west of New South
Wales, right on the Gwydir Valley.
Our first night out of Sydney was spent at Willow Tree, smack bang in the
middle of cattle country. We stayed at the Willow Tree Inn, a boutique stay owned and
meticulously renovated by Sydney-based packaging tycoon Charles Hanna.
It’s nothing short of a luxurious country retreat for families with big appetites.
Every detail of this expansive accommodation and adjoining gastro pub, Graze,
has been immaculately considered to provide great comfort, with epic food offerings
to boot. Graze sits on one of the region’s best paddock-to-plate experiences.
The family’s Black Angus cattle property, Colly Creek, is nearby and, with a butcher on
site, you can stay, eat and fill your esky with red marbled souvenirs.

THE REGION
Located on the banks of the Mehi River, Moree sits where food crops are king.
The town is part of ‘the Golden Triangle’ (the other towns are Boggabilla and
Warialda) boasting fertile black soil made rich by the Gwydir River that flows through.
Here, sizeable crops of wheat, cotton and chickpeas are predominantly grown, as well
as being home to plenty of cattle, citrus and honey farms, and Trawalla, the largest

delicious.com.au 123
“YAAMA GANU GALLERY IS
POPULAR FOR COFFEE AND
EXHIBITIONS OF INDIGENOUS ART.”
delicious.com.au 127
FRANCE

MONACO
Venice CROATIA
Monte Carlo
ITALY Šibenik
Marseille Split
Florence/Pisa Dubrovnik
(Livorno) MONTENEGRO
Montpellier Adriatic Kotor
(Sète) Sea
SPAIN Rome Bari
Barcelona (Civitavecchia) Naples GREECE
Corfu
N Crotone (Kérkyra)
Mediterranean Messina
Sea Athens
Sicily (Piraeus)
Katakolon
Cruise Ionian
Overnight in Port Sea

NO KIDS | NO CASINOS | NO COMPARISON


138 747 VIKINGCRUISES.COM.AU
OR SEE YOUR LOC AL VIKING AGENT

Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability and correct at time of printing. Price includes all advertised discounts and offers are subject to availability. Pricing based on: Mediterranean
& Adriatic Sojourn departing 3 March 2023. These offers are valid on new bookings made between 1 September and 30 November 2020 unless sold out prior. For full terms and conditions visit vikingcruises.com.au
PASSPORT.

A GUIDE TO
LONDON
my home, tea. The perfect place to go is The Ritz
where I’ve grown as a chef and or Claridge’s.
established myself. I first moved here Dishes not to miss are a classic English
in 1998, as a young commis at Sir breakfast at The Wolseley, fish and chips
Terence Conran’s restaurant at the at George’s on Portobello Road, and a
Michelin House on Fulham Road and Sunday roast at The Harwood Arms. In
then opened my first restaurant, addition to Restaurant Gordon Ramsay,
Core, over three years ago. I have a other favourite places of mine are British
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP connection to the city because of the classics such as Scott’s in Mayfair – one of
LEFT: Borough Market; The journey I’ve taken, and I draw inspiration the oldest restaurants in London and
Ritz, The Queen’s Guard
from its rich history, its character and vast great for seafood – and Bentley’s for
outside Buckingham
Palace; Tower Bridge; array of places to drink, eat and explore. oysters native to the British Isles.
Smyth’s delicate dishes; Notting Hill is an iconic Martinis at the Connaught Bar, which
picnic at Battersea Park.
neighbourhood with its colourful boasts beautiful Art Deco, is a must. The
architecture, antique shops, boutiques, martini trolley and personally crafted
and bohemian community of artists and martinis are world famous. Other
creatives, some of whose art we feature not-to-miss sites are Columbia Road
at Core, including Bridget Riley. Other Flower Market, Ronnie Scott’s for jazz,
favourite places of mine are Battersea Royal Albert Hall for concerts and
Park, with beautiful views of the River theatre, West End for amazing musicals
Thames and the Albert Bridge that lights and the Royal Ballet. Museums to visit are
up at night, and of course Borough the V&A and Natural History Museum,
Market, where you’ll see some of the and for modern and contemporary art
amazing producers, farmers and galleries, head to Maddox Street where
PHOTOGRAPHY AFP, GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCK

fishermen we have in Britain. you will also find high-end stores. My


Lunch at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay other favourite place to shop is Conduit
is a must. It is the longest-running Street, plus the famous Savile Row for
three-Michelin star restaurant in the city. bespoke tailoring.
The restaurant is sandwiched between the London is one of the most diverse
Royal Hospital Chelsea, designed by Sir cities I have ever lived in. It’s vibrant – it
Christopher Wren in the 17th century, and celebrates its heritage while having many
the Chelsea Physic Garden, established in different cultures – making its gastronomy
1673 and home to 5,000 different plants. scene one of the best in the world.
You can’t come to London without Whether it is food, art, history, culture or
experiencing the tradition of afternoon fashion you enjoy, this city has it all.

delicious.com.au 129
NOVEMBER
2020
INDEX

74
STARTERS,
SIDES & LIGHT
MEALS
Beef carpaccio, horseradish & mojo verde “ONE-PAN DISHES,
cream ........................................ p 19 (FLIP)
Celery salad with vierge dressing (V).....p 79
LIKE THIS BAKED
Celery, fennel, candied macadamia and SALMON, OFFER
blue cheese (V)....................................p 44
Feather and Bone’s chicken liver pâté ..p 94
BIG FLAVOUR.”
Feather and Bone’s lamb long things – DOMINIC SMITH
(kofta) with yoghurt sauce ..................p 94
Greens and ricotta turnovers .................p 78
Grilled greens with pecorino, garlic and
chilli (V).................................................p 57
Jehan’s summer salad with wagyu Scallops, charred avocado, sweet corn,
chuck....................................................p 92 buttermilk ............................................p 26
Kingfish with parsley and preserved Sprout slaw (V).........................................p 79
lemon dressing....................................p 52 Summer chopped salad with citrus
Moreton Bay bug roll..............................p 28 sesame dressing (V) ............................p 64
Potato & feta fritters with smoked Tofu scramble with shredded cabbage &
salmon & dill oil ..................................p 63 chilli sambal (V) ...................................p 64
Radicchio with herby buttermilk Warm olives with vermouth, slow-cooked
dressing (V)..........................................p 57 herbs and chilli (V)...............................p 57
INDEX.

26
SWEET THING
Affogato ice cream cake with Frangelico
‘ice magic’ ...........................................p 58
“AFFOGATO ICE
Banana, peanut butter and caramel mud CREAM CAKE WITH
cake................................................... p 100
Black Forest mud cake ........................ p 107
FRANGELICO ‘ICE
Caramelised honey almond slice...........p 46 MAGIC’ ADDS
Carrot & walnut mud cake .................. p 103
Lemon and buttermilk mud cake with
INSTANT FUN TO
cream cheese icing ......................... p 107 DESSERT.”
Mandarin white choc mud cake with
mandarin syrup ................................ p 104
– PHOEBE WOOD
Mango and lime meringue pie ..............p 66
Mango granita & passionfruit curd........p 26
Miso caramel brownies...........................p 66
Oat & tahini cookies ..............................p 40
Red velvet mud cake ........................... p 100
Rhubarb jam doughnuts.........................p 82
Salted chocolate & pecan mud cake.. p 103
Toffee apple and cream cheese
mud cake .......................................... p 100

OFFICIAL TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER:


Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat (vicsmeat.com.au).
(v) denotes vegetarian recipe

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AGENDA.

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132 delicious.com.au
PRODUCE AWARDS
2020
ED’S LETTER.

WELCOME
2020 HAS BEEN the most THIS HAS BEEN a year like
challenging time for no other. Yet once again
producers in the 15-year Australian producers come
history of the delicious. out on top.
Harvey Norman Produce The consequences of the
Awards. Deeply hampered pandemic have been felt in
by bushfire, drought, flood every Australian household,
and then Covid, they but before Covid, our
deserve to be recognised in producers were already
this special section. contending with the worst
There are many anecdotes to be told, from the team drought and bushfires in living memory. Only to be
handling deliveries in our test kitchens, to our judges, followed by devastating floods.
who in various states of lockdown used their phones, Even under these circumstances, the talent, hard
video calls and their home kitchens to judge produce. work and entrepreneurial spirit of our local producers
I’d like to thank them for rallying to make the 2020 has delivered us top produce despite lockdowns and
Awards happen. And to our partner Harvey Norman, restrictions. Our kitchen tables have never looked or
whose chairman Gerry Harvey believed in helping us tasted so good, just when we needed it the most.
find a way to forge ahead with the awards. He refers to I have so admired how our producers have changed
himself as a ‘frustrated farmer’ and returns this year to their business models virtually overnight, to find ways
crash our Chef and the Butcher column. We visited our to deliver their delicious goods to the customer.
butcher at Victor Churchill to watch our new ‘Produce Recently, Anthony Puharich and I enjoyed a
to You’ box get packaged up, full of award-winning barbecue with Colin Fassnidge. Believe me, when
produce (now able to be bought direct), and delivered my wagyu beef is in the hands, or tongs, of Colin
to judge Colin Fassnidge’s house. Much banter ensued, you want to make sure you didn’t eat breakfast. Just
a few beers and a barbecue – with the fab recipes inside. sensational. We were all sharing what the year had
Meanwhile, our annual judges’ portraits were taken been like. Anthony and delicious. have created this
remotely by celebrated photographer Hugh Stewart via whole new direct-to-consumer business and we
iPhone, no less! We all missed the togetherness from enjoyed a Produce to You box over lunch.
our round table national judging, but perhaps 2020 has Congratulations to every nominee and winner of
offered the greatest opportunity to come together yet. the 2020 delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards.
For the very first time, our readers will be able to join in You are truly the best in the world.
the virtual awards and cook-up that ensues. Join us on
Gerry Harvey, Chairman, Harvey Norman
October 26 at 7pm (AEDT) for a one-night only virtual
event where some of Australia’s top chefs will cook up
a storm using some of this year’s winning produce. Go
to delicious.com.au for more info. See you there!
PRODUCE
TO YOU
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

If all this talk about top produce has


you wanting a taste of the best, we have
Kerrie McCallum, Editorial Director great news! We’ve put together a box full
Follow me: @kerriemccallum @kerrie_mccallum of award-winning products straight from the
Produce Awards to your door. Now’s your chance
to sample some of Australia’s best. To order
yours, head to delicious.com.au/producetoyou.

delicious.com.au 3
Guillaume Brahimi Danielle Alvarez Neil Perry

Christine Manfield Andrew McConnell Peter Gilmore


PRODUCE AWARDS.

Matt Moran Colin Fassnidge

There was something different about this


year’s delicious. Harvey Norman Produce
Awards. Due to the pandemic, testing and
judging took place in isolation, and the
judges were photographed remotely by
the inimitable Hugh Stewart. The drive
to seek out the best ethical, sustainable
and innovative producers prevailed and
the result is nothing short of outstanding.
Turn the page for this year’s winners.
JUDGES’ PORTRAITS HUGH STEWART
STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

Alla Wolf-Tasker Shannon Bennett Maggie Beer


WINNER

Fruit Forest Farm


Seasonal Tropical Fruit

Southern Forests
Honey Western
Australian
Jarrah Honey

Felds Farm Seasonal


Annual Vegetables

FROM THE EARTH


-WINNER-

A selection of seasonal ultra-tropical exotic fruit,


including jackfruit, abiu, breadfruit, durian and rambutan.

- GOLD MEDALLISTS -
Mountain Yuzu
Fresh Yuzu

Bloomfield Vanilla
Tucker Bush Fresh Bloomfield River Premium
Botanicals Native Thyme Natural Vanilla Beans

delicious.com.au 7
PRODUCE AWARDS. WINNER Nomad Farms Nomadic Pastured
Heritage Chook

Hamlet Pork Pastured


Berkshire Pork

FROM THE PADDOCK


-WINNER-

Macadamia-fed, regeneratively farmed, pastured


heritage Berkshire pork, grown and cut on-farm.

- GOLD MEDALLISTS -
“THERE IS A LOT OF GREAT
PORK IN AUSTRALIA BUT
FEW SIT AT THE TOP OF THE
LIST; HAMLET PORK DOES.”
– Danielle Alvarez

Arundel Farm
Sher Wagyu Lamb
F1 Black Label Beef

Fair Game Wild


Venison

Mottainai
Lamb

8 delicious.com.au
WINNER

FROM THE SEA Bruce Collis


Seasonal Wild
-WINNER- Catch

A selection of seasonal King George whiting, calamari,


garfish and greenback flounder, caught using Collis’
unique and environmentally friendly method.

- GOLD MEDALLISTS -

“BRUCE COLLIS’ FISH IS


SOME OF THE MOST
West Coast
Cape Moreton PRISTINE FISH I HAVE
Octopus
Scarlet Prawns COME ACROSS.”
– Peter Gilmore

Tathra Oysters
5 Year Old Bistro
Grade

Shark Bay
Seafood’s Wild
Collison Reef Fish Scampi Caviar
Seasonal Wild
Catch (Coral Trout)
BEST NEW PRODUCT
-WINNER-
CAPE MORETON SCARLET
PRAWNS, QLD
“Before you even taste these prawns you are already -WINNER-
salivating, they are a stunning-looking product. I would
actually forgo a lobster for one of these – that’s how
sweet and succulent they are.”
– Colin Fassnidge

-WINNER-

OUTSTANDING NATIVE PRODUCER


-WINNER-
LEILA NIMBADJA, MANINGRIDA
WILD FOODS, NT
“Maningrida Wild Foods mixes traditional cultural knowledge with
social enterprise. It follows the guidance of senior Gurr-goni Woman
Leila Nimbadja, who Ben Shewry and Gayle Quarmby describe as
a legend, saying her intelligence and deep knowledge of food and
country is second to none.”
– Kylie Kwong
PRODUCE AWARDS.

OUTSTANDING FARMERS’ MARKET


-WINNER-
MULLUMBIMBY FARMERS’ MARKET, NSW
“For 10 years, the colourful weekly Mullumbimby Farmers’ Market has
celebrated the essence of its community and bountiful local food.
This vibrant authentic market resonates good health, sustainability,
PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN PRE-COVID

and abundance. Outreach activities, like the grow-your-own lunchbox


program, add further to the impact of the market.”
– Jane Adams, Australian Farmers’ Markets Association
-FINALISTS-
Alphington Farmers’ Market, VIC
Kiama Farmers’ Market, NSW

-WINNER-

-WINNER-

-WINNER-

delicious.com.au 11
PRODUCE AWARDS.

OUTSTANDING INNOVATION,
SUSTAINABILITY AND COMMUNITY
-WINNER-
PROVENIR, VIC
“Livestock processed on the farm is the best way to go. It puts the
farmer in control of the stress of the animal, which in turn creates
amazing meat. Provenir has created a sustainable model that is
great for animal, environment and, most importantly, taste.”
– Neil Perry

-WINNER-

-WINNER-

-WINNER-

IN THE BOTTLE
-WINNER-
VOYAGER CRAFT MALT, NSW
“Voyager Craft Malt grows artisanal malts from
seasonal grains. Its program is at the pinnacle of
innovation – the craft beer industry is richer for
Voyager’s work, unlocking innovation and new frontiers
for brewing in Australia. Voyager has a firm hand on
regenerative and environmental practices that elevate
the product beyond all others.”
– Mike Bennie

12 delicious.com.au
PRODUCE AWARDS PARTNERSHIP.
1

TOP
GEAR
Prep best-in-class produce with our
edit of appliances that will bring out
the best flavours, chill to the perfect
temp, extract essences and mix like
pro. And in classic stainless-steel, 2
these hard-working kitchen tools
also look the business.

8
1. Breville Bluicer BJB615SHY, $599
2. Hisense HR6BMFF519B 6-star 3
fridge, $1699 3. Kenwood KVL8300S
bench mixer, $999 4. De’Longhi
ECAM35055SB coffee machine,
$1249 5. Sunbeam VS7850 vacuum
sealer + VS0210 bags, $299 + $49
PRODUCE TO YOU
Now’s your chance to sample
winning products from this year’s 6
Produce Awards. Go to delicious.
com.au/producetoyou for more info.

6. Heston Blumenthal scales,


$119.95 7. Husky HUS-WC168V-
5
VK-ZY 168 bottle wine cabinet,
7 $3199 8. Sunbeam ST6650
steamer, $69

4
FARM TO

14 delicious.com.au
THE CHEF, BUTCHER & FARMER.

“IT’S IMPORTANT FOR


US TO WORK WITH
THE BEST PRODUCERS
AND FARMERS IN THE
COUNTRY.”
GERRY HARVEY

Barbecued chermoula chicken


(recipe p 21). OPPOSITE (FROM
LEFT): Colin Fassnidge, Gerry
Harvey and Anthony Puharich.
THE CHEF, BUTCHER & FARMER.

Anthony Puharich works behind


the scenes at his iconic Victor
Churchill shop. OPPOSITE:
Colin serves up lunch.

delicious.com.au 17
18 delicious.com.au
THE CHEF, BUTCHER & FARMER.
Barbecued rib eye
cutlets, zucchini
salad & chilli aioli
THE CHEF, BUTCHER & FARMER.

“IT’S CHEF-QUALITY PRODUCE [DELIVERED]


TO PEOPLE’S HOMES.” COLIN FASSNIDGE

BARBECUED CHERMOULA Arrange chicken on a platter, and serve barbecue heat to high. Add the steaks and
CHICKEN with tomato salad and lemon wedges. barbecue for 4-5 minutes on each side for
SERVES 4 medium-rare, or until blackened and
BARBECUED RIB EYE CUTLETS, cooked to your liking. Rest for 10-15
1.6kg whole chicken, into 8 pieces ZUCCHINI SALAD & CHILLI AIOLI minutes before serving.
700g oxheart or heirloom tomatoes, SERVES 4 Place the zucchini in a bowl with the
roughly chopped jalapeno salsa, season to taste and toss to
1 tsp cumin and coriander seeds, 900g small desiree potatoes combine. Arrange steaks on a platter with
toasted, crushed 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil, the zucchini salad, potatoes and chilli aioli.
1/ 2 cup (60g) pitted green olives, roughly plus extra to drizzle Serve immediately.
chopped 2 jalapeno, seeds removed, finely
1 lemon, cut into wedges to serve chopped GRILLED PORK, MARJORAM
Juice of 1 lime BUTTER, QUKES & WATERCRESS
CHERMOULA MARINADE 1/ 3 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley, SERVES 4
2 garlic cloves, crushed finely chopped
1 tsp each smoked paprika, cumin 2 x 500g beef rib eye cutlets, 4 x 330g pork cutlets, skin removed,
seeds, ground pepper, chilli flakes and French trimmed French trimmed
ground coriander 3 small (350g) zucchinis, peeled into 250g Qukes, thinly sliced widthwise
Juice and zest of 1 lemon ribbons 60g picked watercress leaves
1/ 2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil, 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil

plus extra to drizzle CHILLI AIOLI Zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus extra
1 bunch each coriander and flat-leaf 2 large red chillies halves to serve
parsley leaves, roughly chopped 1/ 2 cup (150g) whole egg mayonnaise

1/4 tsp smoked paprika MARJORAM BUTTER


For the chermoula marinade, place all 200g unsalted butter, softened
ingredients with half of the herbs in a food Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or 1 bunch marjoram, leaves picked,
processor and whiz to a rough paste. chargrill pan to medium-high. Place the roughly chopped
Season to taste. Transfer marinade to a potatoes on a sheet of foil and drizzle with 1 tbs baby capers, finely chopped
large bowl, add chicken and toss to coat. extra olive oil. Wrap to enclose and place
Marinate in the fridge for 1 hour or, if time on the barbecue. Close the lid and cook For the marjoram butter, place all
permits, for 4-5 hours. for 50-55 minutes until potatoes are ingredients with the lemon zest in a food
Preheat a lightly greased barbecue with completely cooked through.Alternatively processor and whiz until herbs are finely
a lid or chargrill pan to medium-high. Cook preheat the oven to 220°C and place chopped and incorporated well into the
chicken, skin-side down, for 3-4 minutes potatoes on a baking tray. Roast for 50-55 butter. Season to taste. Set aside at room
on each side until charred. Reduce heat to minutes until cooked through. temperature until ready to use.
medium, close barbecue lid and cook, Meanwhile, for the chilli aioli, add the Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or
turning occasionally, for a further 20-25 chillies to the barbecue and cook for 4-5 chargrill pan to medium-high heat. Add
minutes (cover the chicken with aluminium mins until blackened and charred. Try not the pork cutlets and barbecue for
foil if using a chargrill pan), until cooked to open the lid too much or the heat will 3-4 minutes on each side until charred
through. Alternatively, preheat the oven to escape from the potatoes. Set chilli aside and cooked through. Allow pork to rest
200°C and place chicken on a baking tray to cool, remove tips then whiz in a food for 5-6 minutes before serving.
lined with baking paper and roast for processor along with the mayonnaise and Combine Qukes and watercress in a
20-25 minutes until chicken is cooked. paprika, season to taste. Set aside. large bowl, season to taste and dress with
Combine tomato, cumin and coriander To make the jalapeno salsa, combine olive oil and lemon juice. Slice pork into
seeds, olive and remaining parsley and jalapeno, lime juice, parsley, oil and season thick pieces. Top with marjoram butter
coriander into a bowl, season to taste and to taste. Set aside. and serve with watercress salad and
drizzle with extra olive oil. When the potatoes are cooked, increase lemon halves.

delicious.com.au 21
THE CHEF, BUTCHER & FARMER.

Grilled pork,
marjoram butter,
Qukes & watercress
(recipe p 21).
“[PRODUCE TO YOU BOXES]
WILL MEAN PEOPLE CAN EAT
BEST-QUALITY PRODUCE.”
GERRY HARVEY

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