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Charly

the seahorse
crochet amigurumi pattern

© 2008 Copyright by Diana Buß


All rights reserved, not to be reprinted
Patterns are for personal use only, not for commercial or retail purposes
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Charly
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Skills needed Abbreviations


You need to know how to make a single beg - begin, beginning
crochet and how to increase / decrease BO - bind off
a stitch dr - double ring: prevents holes
Yarn requirements at beginning of work: to make a
Use whatever yarn U like, try double ring wrap yarn around
everything you can find. You might your finger two times, remove
result in something very adorable. resulting loops from finger and
I use catania from Schachenmayr. It is start crocheting desired number
a 100 % cotton yarn and a typical yarn of stitches into these loops.
to make potholders from. Holding the stitches firmly
with one hand, pull on the yarn
Needles tail with the other. One after
Use the needle size to obtain gauge the other both loops will drawn
given on your yarn. If you find your closed. Insert a marker at the
tension to be very loose try using a beginning/end of the round.
needle size smaller. It is important to esc - extended single crochet;
make tight stitches due to a firm and Insert hook in next st, yo, pull
substantial form of your doll. up a loop, yo, draw through one
Stuffing loop, yo, and draw through all
loops on hook
Stuff firmly! I tend to overstuff my
dolls. Overstuffing leads to a well m2 - make 2, i.e. make two single
shaped look of your dolls and they hold crochets into one stitch
their shape quite nicely. m2[x,y] - make 2, make stitches given in
parenthesis into one stitch,
Finished size follow given order
The finished size of your amigurumi goes
sc - single crochet
hand in hand with the yarn and needle
you choose. However using a 3.5 mm sc2tog - decrease 1 stitch
needle / E hook you will receive dolls slst - slip stitch
of about 4 to 7 inches high. Charly tog - together
measures 9” / 23 cm high and 3” / 8 cm
wide.
Final Tip
Use a row counter or something else to
keep track with your finished rounds.
Also I recommend to use some waist
yarn (maybe thread or pearl yarn) to
mark the beginning of your row, it will
make counting lot easier and it’s easily
removable anytime.
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Charly
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Before we get started a few more words - - But now lets start on Charly - -
on tension:
The body shape of this seahorse is build Head / Body / Tail
with extended single crochet stitches
(esc) and slipped stitches (slst); both
different versions of a single crochet 1 make a dr with 6 sts
(sc). The esc as a bigger version and the 2 m2 x6
slst as a smaller one. Both are worked 3 (m2, sc1) x6
on opposite sites of the specific body
parts and therefore create the unique 4 sc1, (m2, sc2) x5, m2, sc1
shape of the body (e.g. the bending of 5 (m2, sc3) x6
the seahorse’s tail). 6 sc2, (m2, sc4) x5, m2, sc2
The esc are very similar to classic half 7 (m2, sc5) x6
double crochet stitches (hdc) but use a 8 sc3. (m2, sc6) x5, m2, sc3
little less space and therefore don’t let
make 6 rows
as much stuffing shine through as hdc
stitches possibly would. Still the esc’s 15 sc3, (sc2tog, sc6) x5, sc2tog, sc3
leave enough spaces between the single 16 (sc2tog, sc5), x6
stitches that stuffing might shine 17 sc2, (sc2tog, sc4) x5, sc2tog, sc2
through if you don’t have pretty firm 18 (sc2tog, sc3) x6
tension.
19 (sc2tog, sc2) x6
Therefore it is important to really use
a smaller needle size than your yarn 20 (sc2tog, sc1) x6
asks for if your tension tends to be a make 2 rows (sc12)
little loose. 23 (sc2, m2) x2, sc6
Also it will help a lot to make the sc 24 sc2, m2, sc4, m2, sc6
sts in the following rows (above the 25 sc3, m2, sc4, m2, sc7
esc’s) as tight as possible, this way you
just don’t allow the esc’s to stretch as 26 sc4, m2, sc5, m2, sc7
much later on. 27 sc5, (m2, sc2) x2, m2, sc8
Also it is very helpful to use a smaller 28 sc5, m2, sc3, m2,
hook to help you yarn over and draw a sc4, m2, sc2, slst6
loop when crocheting into the slst’s. 29 slst3, sc3,
These are very small and tight and
(m2, sc4) x2,
using a smaller hook to yarn over will
prevent you from breaking your fingers, m2, sc9
still you should make the required 30 sc7, m2, sc4, m2,
stitch itself with the normal working sc5, m2, sc5, slst5
hook. I normally use a 3.5 mm / E hook 31 slst3, (sc7, m2) x2, sc13
and have a 2 mm / B hook to help me
pull the yarn through those super tiny 32 (sc10, m2) x2, sc7, slst5
stitches.
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Charly
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33 slst4, sc6, m2, sc6, m2, sc6, m2, sc11 67 sc2, esc3, sc3, slst3, sc1
34 sc3, m2, sc10, m2, sc8, m2, sc11, m2, 68 sc3, sc2tog, sc7
sc3 69 sc2, esc3, sc2, slst3, sc1
35 sc3, m2, sc35, m2, sc3 70 sc3, sc2tog, sc6
36 sc40, slst5 71 sc2, esc3, sc2, slst3
37 slst5, sc11, sc2tog, sc9, sc2tog, sc16 72 sc3, sc2tog, sc5
38 sc20, sc2tog, sc16, slst5 73 sc2, esc3, sc2, slst2
39 slst6, sc10, sc2tog, sc6, sc2tog, sc16 74 slst1, sc2, sc2tog, sc2, slst2
40 sc16, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc10, slst5 75 slst2, esc4, sc2
41 slst7, sc8, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc15 76 sc7, slst1
42 sc11, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc3, 77 slst2, sc1, esc3, sc1, slst1
sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc6, slst4 78 slst2, sc6
43 slst6, sc5, sc2tog, sc1, sc2tog, sc2, 79 sc4, esc3, sc1
sc2tog, sc1, sc2tog, sc9
80 slst3, sc5
44 sc11, sc2tog x4, sc6, slst3
81 slst3, sc1, esc3, sc1
45 slst5, sc5, sc2tog x3, sc8
82 sc8
make 3 rows (sc21)
83 sc1, slst3, sc1, esc3
49 sc12, sc2tog, sc7
84 sc1, slst3, sc4
50 sc9, slst7, sc4
85 sc5, esc3
make 1 row (sc20)
86 esc1, sc1, slst2, sc2, sc2tog
52 sc12, sc2tog, sc6
87 sc2, slst2, sc2, esc1
make 1 row (sc19)
88 esc1, sc6
54 sc10, slst2, slst2tog, slst2, sc3
89 sc2tog, sc5
make 1 rows (sc18)
90 sc2
56 sc3, sc2tog, sc13
BO
57 sc9, slst6, sc2
58 sc3, sc2tog, sc12
59 sc9, slst6, sc1
60 sc3, sc2tog, sc11
61 sc2, esc4, sc3, slst5, sc1
62 sc3, sc2tog, sc10
63 sc1, esc5, sc3, slst4, sc1
64 sc3, sc2tog, sc9
65 sc2, esc3, sc4, slst3, sc1
66 sc2, sc2tog, sc9

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Charly
ö
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Snout Dorsal Fin


1 make a dr with 6 sts 1 make a chain with smaller hook:
2 m2 x6 chain 10, change back to normal
working hook
3 (m2, sc1) x6
4 (sc2, m2) x6 2 start in 2nd chain from hook:
sc8, m3 into last chain, turn, sc8
make 1 row (sc24)
3 sc1, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog x2, sc5,
6 sc5, (sc2tog, sc2) x2, sc2tog, sc4 sc2tog
(row not finished)
4 sc1, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc1, sc2tog,
BO sc2, sc2tog
make 1 row (sc11)
When binding off leave a real long tail,
about the length of your arm to sew BO
the snout to the head:
Sew to lower back, opposite to belly,
the decreases created a bending in the
snout which resembles the top of the below bending of back and above
snout. Now place the snout to the head beginning of tail (see front picture).
Secure ends and hide them.
in a way that the bended end is on top
and the flat end is at the lower side.
Use pins to fix the snout in place before Side Fins / “Arms"
you sew it to the head. To sew the snout make two
to the head use the BO yarn end. Secure
yarn ends and hide within the seahorse.
1 make a chain with smaller hook:
chain 6, change back to normal
Head ‘Pocks' hook size and start in 2nd chain
from hook:
1 make a dr with 6 sts 2 sc4, m3 into last chain, turn, sc4
2 m2, sc5 3 sc1, (sc2tog, sc1) x3, sc1
BO make 1 row (sc8)
5 (sc2, sc2tog) x2
make about 4 (or as many as you like) make 1 row (sc6)
and add them to the head, all centered
and lined up in a row, sew to head, BO
secure and hide yarn ends.
Sew to side of body, one
thumb wide away from
dorsal fin.
Secure and hide yarn ends.

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Charly
ö
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Eyes Additional:

Two little patterns to decorate your


white Seahorse:
1 make dr with 6 sts
2 m2 x6 Star
3 (m2, sc1) x6 use same yarn and hook as Charly
BO (only a different color)

dark/black 1 chain 4 and close to form a ring


1 make dr with 6 sts 2 chain 3, sc into 2nd chain from
hook, hdc in last chain, sc into
2 m2 x6
ring – repeat 5 times
BO
BO

Embroider little sparkles onto the dark Sew to body, maybe onto the belly? Or
pupil parts of the eyes. See figure below how about right behind one eye?
for guidance. The figure also shows you
how to sew both parts of the eye
together. Heart
use same yarn and hook as Charly
(maybe a red color way?)

1 chain 4 and make all following


sts into the first chain from hook:
2 trc3, dc3, chain 1, trc1, chain 1,
left - - right dc3, trc3, slst2
BO

We’re finished.

Hope you had fun

Abbreviations for the following


additional patterns

dc - double crochet
hdc - half double cochet
trc - triple crochet
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