You are on page 1of 4

All content & photography copyright 2003 property of Heritage Trails Kielder Water.

Designed and produced in Northumberland 01669 621272 Ordnance Survey Explorer OL 42


Photography by Bill A Peronneau
MAP
Geoffrey N Wright David and Charles 1989
This project is supported by The Northumbrian Uplands
Roger J A Wilson Constable 2002
www.wild-redesdale.co.uk A Guide to the Roman Remains in Britain
www.northumberland-national-park.org.uk Tony Hopkins Fraser Pevensey Press 2002
Refreshments and toilets available Northumberland the official National Park Guide
The Border Reiver, Otterburn 01830 520682.
George Macdonald Fraser Harper Collins 1995
Refreshments and toilets available The Steel Bonnets
Impromptu Café, Elsdon, 01830 520389.
The Redesdale Society 1999
Refreshments and toilets available
Otterburn Mill TIC – 01830 520093 A Visitor’s Guide to Redesdale
Refreshments and toilets available FURTHER READING
Bellingham TIC – 01434 220616
TOURIST INFORMATION
on 0191 239 4201.
The Raw Bastle – telephone the Army Liaison Office
Make no unnecessary noise. • telephoning 01830 520342.
Take special care on country roads. • a key can be obtained from the Churchwarden by
Protect wildlife, plants and trees. • Horsley Church – permission to enter the church and treasures
Help keep all water clean. •
Take your litter home. • information about opening times.
Leave livestock, crops and machinery alone. • Archaeological Centre on 01830 520801 for Northumberland’s
Use gates and stiles to cross fences, hedges and walls. • Brigantium and Bremenium – telephone Brigantium
Keep to public paths across farmland. •
Keep your dogs under close control. • Petrol Station and café during opening hours. Open your eyes to
Fasten all gates. • a key can be obtained from the nearby Border Park
Guard against all risk of fire. • Byrness Church – permission to enter the church and
Enjoy the countryside and respect its life and work. •
Trust on 0191 284 6884 for access and further information.
Countryside Code.
Whitelee Moor – telephone Northumberland Wildlife
When exploring Redesdale, please observe the
THE COUNTRYSIDE CODE CONTACTS
lay outside the frontier of the Roman Empire. The against the Scots (and sometimes one’s neighbours!)
HISTORY OF REDESDALE Romans did not desert Redesdale. While permanent forts became a way of life for many of the people in
Redesdale is the valley of the river Rede, which stretches were built at Bremenium (near Rochester) and at Redesdale. Families such as the Halls, Dunnes,
from its source on open moorland close to the Border Risingham (near West Woodburn), the evidence that Milburns, Potts, Reeds, Hedleys and Storeys became
with Scotland at Carter Bar down to the junction of the there are more temporary marching camps in the valley notorious for their thieving and violence. Although the
Rede with the North Tyne near to the small town of than anywhere else in Western Europe shows Redesdale authorities in both Scotland and England had created
Bellingham. This section of the leaflet will introduce you was extensively used by the Roman Military in the second, special officers and laws for the Border areas, it was
to the history of the valley and its people. third and fourth centuries AD. only the Union of the Crowns that ended the reivers’
activities and ushered in a more peaceful way of life in
ANCIENT REDESDALE MEDIEVAL REDESDALE Redesdale.
Human beings probably came to the valley about 9000 Roman government in Britain collapsed around 400 AD
years ago. These first inhabitants were hunters and and the area to the north of Hadrian’s Wall probably
passed back into a form of tribal government. Eventually
MORE RECENT TIMES
gatherers who practised a mobile lifestyle moving around During the seventeenth and early eighteenth century,
the landscape to exploit seasonally available food the area became part of the Kingdom of Northumbria.
Little is known about this period, but when the Normans Redesdale slowly became a more peaceful and
resources. Over the next two thousand years, people
came to Redesdale in the late eleventh century, they prosperous area. All the land not occupied at the end
began to transform the way that they lived by tending
found the valley subject to raiding by the Scots. As a of the sixteenth century was added to existing farms or
and adapting the plant and animal species that they
result of these attacks, Redesdale was given the special new ones were created. This process resulted in many
found they needed most. These were the first farmers.
Although rearing livestock was a particularly important status of a Liberty in which the Lord was given powers large farms which were used for rearing, mostly,
activity, these farmers also grew cereals and continued and responsibilities to enable him to defend the area Cheviot sheep. The wool and livestock was sold to
some of their former hunting and gathering methods of against raiders from the north. Within the Liberty, the clothe and feed the rapidly expanding urban
finding food. Lords of Redesdale strengthened the valley’s defences by population created by the Industrial Revolution and the
building castles first at Elsdon and, later, a replacement at farms prospered. At the same time, in Otterburn, a
By the beginning of the Bronze Age, around 4000 years nearby Harbottle. These were much needed in the later woollen mill was opened and attempts were made
ago, people were living in permanent houses all the year thirteenth century when serious warfare broke out elsewhere to exploit minerals such as iron and coal
round and practising a mixed-farming regime. This way between Scotland and England. For over three hundred which were found in the valley. Sadly, the industrial
of living continued into the Iron Age, although farming years Redesdale became a centre of conflict between the efforts were never wholly successful, while, at the end
production became more specialised and warfare possibly two kingdoms which was only ended when King James VI of the nineteenth century, sheep farming was adversely
more common. It is believed that Redesdale was of Scotland became ruler of both countries on the death
affected by imports from Australia and New Zealand.
primarily a cattle rearing area. During this time hillforts of Queen Elizabeth I of England in 1603.
New employment has been created in the twentieth
and stockaded farm settlements came to dominate the
landscape. century by the construction of the reservoir at
THE REIVERS
Catcleugh, the planting of trees creating commercial
Throughout the Anglo-Scottish wars, people on both
THE ROMAN PERIOD sides of the Border suffered greatly. Warfare forced many forests on many of the sheep farms and the opening of
The arrival of the Romans in northern England in 79-80 people to leave parts of Redesdale, while those who the vast Otterburn Training Area for the Army. This
AD heralded a new phase of political control and remained had to take special care to protect themselves area of Northumberland was recognised as one of the
settlement organisation in what was to become a from raids from Scotland, especially during the sixteenth finest landscapes in England and was designated a
militarised frontier zone. Redesdale lies to the north of century. The local people banded together in family National Park in 1956. Today, people are still
Hadrian’s Wall, so that after 158 AD when the Romans groups and many of the wealthier built fortified houses, discovering the beautiful scenery and the interesting
abandoned the Antonine Wall and their attempt to called bastles, in which they and their relatives could history of Redesdale and the National Park, making the
govern the area we know as southern Scotland, the valley defend themselves from attack. Reiving, or raiding, area a popular choice for visitors and holiday makers.
All content & photography copyright 2003 property of Heritage Trails Kielder Water.
Designed and produced in Northumberland 01669 621272 Ordnance Survey Explorer OL 42
Photography by Bill A Peronneau
MAP

Geoffrey N Wright David and Charles 1989


This project is supported by The Northumbrian Uplands
Roger J A Wilson Constable 2002
www.wild-redesdale.co.uk A Guide to the Roman Remains in Britain
www.northumberland-national-park.org.uk Tony Hopkins Fraser Pevensey Press 2002
Refreshments and toilets available Northumberland the official National Park Guide
The Border Reiver, Otterburn 01830 520682.
George Macdonald Fraser Harper Collins 1995
Refreshments and toilets available The Steel Bonnets
Impromptu Café, Elsdon, 01830 520389.
The Redesdale Society 1999
Refreshments and toilets available
Otterburn Mill TIC – 01830 520093 A Visitor’s Guide to Redesdale

Refreshments and toilets available FURTHER READING


Bellingham TIC – 01434 220616
TOURIST INFORMATION
on 0191 239 4201.
The Raw Bastle – telephone the Army Liaison Office
Make no unnecessary noise. • telephoning 01830 520342.
Take special care on country roads. • a key can be obtained from the Churchwarden by
Protect wildlife, plants and trees.
Help keep all water clean.


Horsley Church – permission to enter the church and treasures
Take your litter home. • information about opening times.
Leave livestock, crops and machinery alone.
Use gates and stiles to cross fences, hedges and walls.


Archaeological Centre on 01830 520801 for
Brigantium and Bremenium – telephone Brigantium
Northumberland’s
Keep to public paths across farmland. •
Keep your dogs under close control.
Fasten all gates.


Petrol Station and café during opening hours.
a key can be obtained from the nearby Border Park
Open your eyes to
Guard against all risk of fire. • Byrness Church – permission to enter the church and
Enjoy the countryside and respect its life and work. •
Trust on 0191 284 6884 for access and further information.
Countryside Code.
Whitelee Moor – telephone Northumberland Wildlife
When exploring Redesdale, please observe the
THE COUNTRYSIDE CODE CONTACTS

HISTORY OF REDESDALE lay outside the frontier of the Roman Empire. The
Romans did not desert Redesdale. While permanent forts
against the Scots (and sometimes one’s neighbours!)
became a way of life for many of the people in
Redesdale is the valley of the river Rede, which stretches were built at Bremenium (near Rochester) and at Redesdale. Families such as the Halls, Dunnes,
from its source on open moorland close to the Border Risingham (near West Woodburn), the evidence that Milburns, Potts, Reeds, Hedleys and Storeys became
with Scotland at Carter Bar down to the junction of the there are more temporary marching camps in the valley notorious for their thieving and violence. Although the
Rede with the North Tyne near to the small town of than anywhere else in Western Europe shows Redesdale authorities in both Scotland and England had created
Bellingham. This section of the leaflet will introduce you was extensively used by the Roman Military in the second, special officers and laws for the Border areas, it was
to the history of the valley and its people. third and fourth centuries AD. only the Union of the Crowns that ended the reivers’
activities and ushered in a more peaceful way of life in
ANCIENT REDESDALE MEDIEVAL REDESDALE Redesdale.
Human beings probably came to the valley about 9000 Roman government in Britain collapsed around 400 AD
years ago. These first inhabitants were hunters and and the area to the north of Hadrian’s Wall probably
passed back into a form of tribal government. Eventually
MORE RECENT TIMES
gatherers who practised a mobile lifestyle moving around During the seventeenth and early eighteenth century,
the landscape to exploit seasonally available food the area became part of the Kingdom of Northumbria.
Little is known about this period, but when the Normans Redesdale slowly became a more peaceful and
resources. Over the next two thousand years, people
came to Redesdale in the late eleventh century, they prosperous area. All the land not occupied at the end
began to transform the way that they lived by tending
found the valley subject to raiding by the Scots. As a of the sixteenth century was added to existing farms or
and adapting the plant and animal species that they
result of these attacks, Redesdale was given the special new ones were created. This process resulted in many
found they needed most. These were the first farmers.
Although rearing livestock was a particularly important status of a Liberty in which the Lord was given powers large farms which were used for rearing, mostly,
activity, these farmers also grew cereals and continued and responsibilities to enable him to defend the area Cheviot sheep. The wool and livestock was sold to
some of their former hunting and gathering methods of against raiders from the north. Within the Liberty, the clothe and feed the rapidly expanding urban
finding food. Lords of Redesdale strengthened the valley’s defences by population created by the Industrial Revolution and the
building castles first at Elsdon and, later, a replacement at farms prospered. At the same time, in Otterburn, a
By the beginning of the Bronze Age, around 4000 years nearby Harbottle. These were much needed in the later woollen mill was opened and attempts were made
ago, people were living in permanent houses all the year thirteenth century when serious warfare broke out elsewhere to exploit minerals such as iron and coal
round and practising a mixed-farming regime. This way between Scotland and England. For over three hundred which were found in the valley. Sadly, the industrial
of living continued into the Iron Age, although farming years Redesdale became a centre of conflict between the efforts were never wholly successful, while, at the end
production became more specialised and warfare possibly two kingdoms which was only ended when King James VI of the nineteenth century, sheep farming was adversely
more common. It is believed that Redesdale was of Scotland became ruler of both countries on the death
affected by imports from Australia and New Zealand.
primarily a cattle rearing area. During this time hillforts of Queen Elizabeth I of England in 1603.
New employment has been created in the twentieth
and stockaded farm settlements came to dominate the
century by the construction of the reservoir at
landscape. THE REIVERS
Catcleugh, the planting of trees creating commercial
Throughout the Anglo-Scottish wars, people on both
THE ROMAN PERIOD sides of the Border suffered greatly. Warfare forced many forests on many of the sheep farms and the opening of
The arrival of the Romans in northern England in 79-80 people to leave parts of Redesdale, while those who the vast Otterburn Training Area for the Army. This
AD heralded a new phase of political control and remained had to take special care to protect themselves area of Northumberland was recognised as one of the
settlement organisation in what was to become a from raids from Scotland, especially during the sixteenth finest landscapes in England and was designated a
militarised frontier zone. Redesdale lies to the north of century. The local people banded together in family National Park in 1956. Today, people are still
Hadrian’s Wall, so that after 158 AD when the Romans groups and many of the wealthier built fortified houses, discovering the beautiful scenery and the interesting
abandoned the Antonine Wall and their attempt to called bastles, in which they and their relatives could history of Redesdale and the National Park, making the
govern the area we know as southern Scotland, the valley defend themselves from attack. Reiving, or raiding, area a popular choice for visitors and holiday makers.
1 2 3 4 5 6
Carter Bar – is the point where Whitelee Moor– is the last farm in Catcleugh Reservoir. By the end Byrness Church. At one time, Brigantium - is an archaeological Bremenium. For 250 years
England and Scotland meet at the England and, in the past, has been of the nineteenth century, a great Elsdon church was the only one in reconstruction centre that allows Bremenium was the most northerly
head of Redesdale. At 418 metres the site of an inn as well as the first deal of the land at the head of the the upper Rede valley. To provide a visitors to explore the history of occupied fort in the entire Roman
above sea level, it is the highest tollhouse on the toll road from the Rede valley had become large sheep convenient place of worship for the Northumberland from Stone Age to Empire. The fort guarded the area
point on any main road between the Carter Bar to Elsdon. In 1999, farms, most of which were several local farming population, the Church Roman times. The site contains to the north of Hadrian’s Wall.
two countries. Although a crossing Northumberland Wildlife Trust thousand hectares in size. As the of St Francis at Byrness was built reconstructions, with information Although the fort encloses the
point for many centuries, the Carter purchased the Whitelee Moor as it city of Newcastle-upon-Tyne between 1793 and 1796. Later, boards, of several archaeological hamlet of High Rochester, a path
Bar first appears in written records in contains a large and nationally expanded in the nineteenth century, workers constructing the reservoir at features recorded in the Rede valley way around the perimeter permits
1375. Later, in the eighteenth and important upland bog habitat which the area was surveyed to see if it Catcleugh used the church. In and neighbouring areas. The actual visitors access to the main visible
nineteenth centuries, it was the start is home to a variety of rare and would be possible to construct a 1903, they erected a special sites are not normally accessible to features of the fort. For further
of a Turnpike road to Elsdon. beautiful wild plants. In 2001, the reservoir to supply water to the memorial window to commemorate the public. There is a helpful leaflet, details, see the Contacts section of
1508 hectare farm became a growing urban population. The their comrades killed while working a video display and an interpretation this leaflet.
National Nature Reserve. For access surveys were favourable and, at Catcleugh. The church key is room together with a café, shop and
and further details, see the Contacts between 1894 and 1905, the available on request from the nearby toilets available on the site. For
section of this leaflet. reservoir was constructed on land garage where refreshments and further details, see the Contacts
bought from the Duke of toilet facilities are available for section of this leaflet.
Northumberland. It is possible to customers.
drive across the dam in order to see
views of the lake that is now such a
beautiful feature of the landscape.
Parking available in the layby past
the Reservoir, toilets including
disabled.

12
Winter’s Gibbet. Standing on a
hill within sight of the Raw, the
8 11 gibbet commemorates the murder
of Margaret Crozier in 1792.
The Percy Cross. In 1388, the William Winter, the thief who
7 Scots invaded northern England. On
the eastern side of the country the
9 The Raw Bastle. The bastle at the
Raw farm near Billsmoor which is
murdered the old lady at the Raw,
was apprehended, tried and
Horsley Church. As at Byrness, army was commanded by the Earl of Otterburn Tower. Located in the located 3km from Elsdon on the executed for the crime. The judge
the people of Horsley and Rochester
had to travel a number of miles to
Douglas, who carried out serious
raids against the cities of Durham
centre of the village, the Tower was
originally built before the battle of
10 B6341 Rothbury road is a fine
example of the type of fortified
decreed that Winter’s body should
hang in chains from the gibbet in
Elsdon, where the parish church of and Newcastle. Whilst returning to Otterburn at the time of which it Elsdon Church and Tower. Elsdon house built during the reiving times sight of the place where the crime
the upper Rede valley was located. Scotland with the plunder he had was attacked by the Scots. The is built around a large village green. in the sixteenth century. The thick, was committed as a dreadful
In 1842, Lord Redesdale, the local taken, Douglas was attacked near Tower has been continuously The church, parts of which date strong walls and the roof originally warning to other would-be
landowner, had a new church built Otterburn by an English force led by occupied ever since and in the from the twelfth century, has many made of stone slabs, provided criminals. The gibbet and the
on land he donated in Horsley for Harry "Hotspur" Percy, the son of the sixteenth century became the historic features. The north wall protection for the inhabitants wooden replica head suspended
the use of local people. The church Earl of Northumberland. The Percy property of the Halls, one of the stands on the site of the grave of against surprise attack. Later used from it have been maintained to the
was designed by the important Cross marks the site of the Battle of most famous reiving families in soldiers killed in the battle of as a house, the bastle was the scene present day as a constant reminder
north eastern architects, John and Otterburn in which Douglas was Redesdale, one of whose members Otterburn, while inside there are of a famous murder in 1792. The that crime does not pay! From
Benjamin Green and contains killed, but where the English were “Mad Jack Hall”, a judge was inscribed Roman stones from the local people refused to live in the Elsdon take the road at the far
memorials to members of the defeated and Hotspur and many executed for his part in the 1715 nearby forts and medieval grave bastle after the murder and it corner of the village green signed
famous Mitford family of which Lord nobles were taken prisoner. The site Jacobite rebellion. The Halls ceased slabs. Refreshments available from became a farm building. It is shortly Morpeth and Newcastle (also a
Redesdale was a member. For further is signed from the A68, open at all to own the Tower in 1745 and later the Impromptu Café and Bird and to be restored and will be open to brown information sign for Winter’s
details, see the Contacts section of times and has interesting owners converted it from a fortress Bush Pub, toilets signed from the visitors, for further details, see the Gibbet), climb steeply away from the
this leaflet. information boards. into a country house. Village Green Contacts section of this leaflet. village for 3km.
1 2 3 4 5 6
Carter Bar – is the point where Whitelee Moor– is the last farm in Catcleugh Reservoir. By the end Byrness Church. At one time, Brigantium - is an archaeological Bremenium. For 250 years
England and Scotland meet at the England and, in the past, has been of the nineteenth century, a great Elsdon church was the only one in reconstruction centre that allows Bremenium was the most northerly
head of Redesdale. At 418 metres the site of an inn as well as the first deal of the land at the head of the the upper Rede valley. To provide a visitors to explore the history of occupied fort in the entire Roman
above sea level, it is the highest tollhouse on the toll road from the Rede valley had become large sheep convenient place of worship for the Northumberland from Stone Age to Empire. The fort guarded the area
point on any main road between the Carter Bar to Elsdon. In 1999, farms, most of which were several local farming population, the Church Roman times. The site contains to the north of Hadrian’s Wall.
two countries. Although a crossing Northumberland Wildlife Trust thousand hectares in size. As the of St Francis at Byrness was built reconstructions, with information Although the fort encloses the
point for many centuries, the Carter purchased the Whitelee Moor as it city of Newcastle-upon-Tyne between 1793 and 1796. Later, boards, of several archaeological hamlet of High Rochester, a path
Bar first appears in written records in contains a large and nationally expanded in the nineteenth century, workers constructing the reservoir at features recorded in the Rede valley way around the perimeter permits
1375. Later, in the eighteenth and important upland bog habitat which the area was surveyed to see if it Catcleugh used the church. In and neighbouring areas. The actual visitors access to the main visible
nineteenth centuries, it was the start is home to a variety of rare and would be possible to construct a 1903, they erected a special sites are not normally accessible to features of the fort. For further
of a Turnpike road to Elsdon. beautiful wild plants. In 2001, the reservoir to supply water to the memorial window to commemorate the public. There is a helpful leaflet, details, see the Contacts section of
1508 hectare farm became a growing urban population. The their comrades killed while working a video display and an interpretation this leaflet.
National Nature Reserve. For access surveys were favourable and, at Catcleugh. The church key is room together with a café, shop and
and further details, see the Contacts between 1894 and 1905, the available on request from the nearby toilets available on the site. For
section of this leaflet. reservoir was constructed on land garage where refreshments and further details, see the Contacts
bought from the Duke of toilet facilities are available for section of this leaflet.
Northumberland. It is possible to customers.
drive across the dam in order to see
views of the lake that is now such a
beautiful feature of the landscape.
Parking available in the layby past
the Reservoir, toilets including
disabled.

12
Winter’s Gibbet. Standing on a
hill within sight of the Raw, the
8 11 gibbet commemorates the murder
of Margaret Crozier in 1792.
The Percy Cross. In 1388, the William Winter, the thief who
7 Scots invaded northern England. On
the eastern side of the country the
9 The Raw Bastle. The bastle at the
Raw farm near Billsmoor which is
murdered the old lady at the Raw,
was apprehended, tried and
Horsley Church. As at Byrness, army was commanded by the Earl of Otterburn Tower. Located in the located 3km from Elsdon on the executed for the crime. The judge
the people of Horsley and Rochester
had to travel a number of miles to
Douglas, who carried out serious
raids against the cities of Durham
centre of the village, the Tower was
originally built before the battle of
10 B6341 Rothbury road is a fine
example of the type of fortified
decreed that Winter’s body should
hang in chains from the gibbet in
Elsdon, where the parish church of and Newcastle. Whilst returning to Otterburn at the time of which it Elsdon Church and Tower. Elsdon house built during the reiving times sight of the place where the crime
the upper Rede valley was located. Scotland with the plunder he had was attacked by the Scots. The is built around a large village green. in the sixteenth century. The thick, was committed as a dreadful
In 1842, Lord Redesdale, the local taken, Douglas was attacked near Tower has been continuously The church, parts of which date strong walls and the roof originally warning to other would-be
landowner, had a new church built Otterburn by an English force led by occupied ever since and in the from the twelfth century, has many made of stone slabs, provided criminals. The gibbet and the
on land he donated in Horsley for Harry "Hotspur" Percy, the son of the sixteenth century became the historic features. The north wall protection for the inhabitants wooden replica head suspended
the use of local people. The church Earl of Northumberland. The Percy property of the Halls, one of the stands on the site of the grave of against surprise attack. Later used from it have been maintained to the
was designed by the important Cross marks the site of the Battle of most famous reiving families in soldiers killed in the battle of as a house, the bastle was the scene present day as a constant reminder
north eastern architects, John and Otterburn in which Douglas was Redesdale, one of whose members Otterburn, while inside there are of a famous murder in 1792. The that crime does not pay! From
Benjamin Green and contains killed, but where the English were “Mad Jack Hall”, a judge was inscribed Roman stones from the local people refused to live in the Elsdon take the road at the far
memorials to members of the defeated and Hotspur and many executed for his part in the 1715 nearby forts and medieval grave bastle after the murder and it corner of the village green signed
famous Mitford family of which Lord nobles were taken prisoner. The site Jacobite rebellion. The Halls ceased slabs. Refreshments available from became a farm building. It is shortly Morpeth and Newcastle (also a
Redesdale was a member. For further is signed from the A68, open at all to own the Tower in 1745 and later the Impromptu Café and Bird and to be restored and will be open to brown information sign for Winter’s
details, see the Contacts section of times and has interesting owners converted it from a fortress Bush Pub, toilets signed from the visitors, for further details, see the Gibbet), climb steeply away from the
this leaflet. information boards. into a country house. Village Green Contacts section of this leaflet. village for 3km.

You might also like