CHARU SHARMA

WHAT IS A MARKER?
• Markers are a guide used in the cutting process. It is long sheet of bond paper with all of the
pattern pieces used to make a style laid out in a configuration intended to reduce fabric
waste as much as is possible, including all of the sizes you’d need of a given style. Markers
are often made by computer and printed out with a plotter. The marker is laid on top of the
fabric layers which cutters then use to cut out all of the pieces at once.

 This is an image of what a

computer generated marker
(not particularly well made)
looks like in a CAD program.
This marker is for a simple
bodice with facings and a short
sleeve in five sizes, XS-XL
(larger image):
Marker making:
Marker
Making Methods
in Apparel Industry.
A marker is
commonly done by
large thin paper that
holds all the size
of pattern pieces for
a specific style of
garments. Marker is
the perfect way to
reduce fabric
wastage
Objectives of marker making:
There are different objectives of marker making. They
are :
 By the help of marker making similar size and styles of
apparels are gained.
 For bulky production marker is essential.
 Marker making is the guide of fabric cutting.
 It helps to minimize the fabric wastages.
 It save the production time and cost
Methods of marker making:
There are two methods usually used for marker making
in the apparel industry. They are
1.Manual method 2.Computerized method.
Types of markers




•

•
•
 Scrambled marker
 A scrambled marker is used when two or more sizes of one style are cut
together.
 Pattern pieces of both/all sizes are mixed on the marker to get the best
economy.
 Advantages
• The more sizes, the greater the chance to improve economy due to the
smaller sizes/pieces being placed between the larger sizes/pieces.
 Disadvantages
• Scrambled markers are generally very long and this may not be workable
due to the length of the table or fabric length per roll.
• The fabric when spread will not give many plies before it runs out so there
may be many spliced areas.
• Smaller number of plies laid means smaller bundles. Machinists usually work
on bundles of garments of the same style, size and colour. Smaller bundles
may increase costs of ticketing and handling.
 Step markers
 A step marker is used where there are a few sizes on the
same marker but the order quantity for each is different.
• The marker starts with the smallest order quantity size then
progresses to the size that was ordered in the biggest
quantity.
• The number of plies are laid accordingly and the lay is
stepped with a smaller quantity on one side.
• This can be done with single size markers or with a
combination of single and scrambled markers that are stepped
on the fabric lay.
 For example:
 You get an order for 300 garments.
 The order contains:
• 100 size 12s
• 200 size 14s
1. A marker for the size 12 is made with 2 full garments on it.
2. Another marker is made for the size 14 with 2 full garments
on this.
3. Fifty plies would be spread for the length of both markers.
4. A further 50 plies would be spread for only the size 14 marker.
5. The size 12 marker is placed on top of the 50 plies and the
size 14 marker placed on top of the 100 plies.
Markers for block lays
 Markers for block lays are sometimes done
when the order has a large number of the
same size and a lesser quantity of the smaller
sizes.
 They are also done when there is a difficult
pattern piece used that requires more time and
accuracy to cut it than the rest of the pieces in
the marker.
 Block markers are created when:
1. There are a few sizes in the order that have
irregular quantities.
2. There is a difficult pattern piece or fabric used.
Markers for folded lays
 This type of marker is used when the fabric needs to be spread with a
fold in the centre (laid closest to the cutter and parallel to the selvedge
of the fabric). This may need to be done because the fabric is very wide
or comes pre-folded. Knit fabric is often supplied this way and
sometimes has a fold on both sides (tubular).
 The marker is done to the width of the folded fabric. Pairs of pattern
pieces (eg left and right sleeve) are automatically cut due to the fold in
the fabric.
 When you are using a folded lay:
• The height of the lay needs to be monitored as the folds push away
from the edge with each ply causing tilting.
• Cutting is more difficult and needs to be checked to see that all pieces
are cut through correctly.
• There may be a permanent crease in the folded edge that makes it
unusable.
• The fabric may be cut open and spread flat to reduce the problems
above.
One-way marker
 The marker can be any of the above marker
types but all pattern pieces are laid in one
direction only due to the fabric or pattern type.
 Special care must be taken to make sure there
are pairs of pattern pieces such as left and right
sleeves.

Study of
Cutting Machine
 FABRIC CUTTING
To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut out the
garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting templates.
In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading with accuracy
and properly which is termed as fabric cutting.
• Object:
To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to the
dimension of the marker
• Requirements Of Cutting:
 Precession of cut
 Clean edge
 Infused edge
 Consistency in cutting
 Support of the lay
 TYPES OF CUTTING METHOD
 Fully Manual
 Hand operated scissor
 Manually Operated Power Knife
 Straight knife
 Band knife
 Round knife
 Die cutting
 Notcher
 Drill
 Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
 Computer controlled knife cutting
 Cutting by Laser beam
 Cutting by Water jet
 Cutting by Plasma torch
 HAND OPERATED SCISSOR
• Features:
 First & oldest method of fabric cutting
 Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric
 Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left
 Can be cut by scissor

 Needs more time & contain high cost

 Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric
 STRAIGHT KNIFE
• Features:
 The elements of straight knife consists of:
1. An electric motor
2. Stand
3. A base plate usually on rollers
4. Handle
5. Knife
6. Knife Guard
7. Wheel
 Knife is driven by electric power
 Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting
 Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
 Straight edge is mostly used
 Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
 Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim
 STRAIGHT KNIFE
• Working Principal:
Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight Knife
Motor power drive the reciprocating knife
Operator power drives the knife through the lay

The motor power needed is determined by

Height of the lay
Construction of the fabric
Curvature of the line being cut
Stroke of the blade

Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut the fabric
 STRAIGHT KNIFE
• Advantage:
Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to another
place
Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily
Round corner can be cut more precisely then even round knife
Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any angle

• Disadvantage:
Some time deflection may occur due to the weight of the motor
Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
Sometime accident may happen
DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNIFE
Round Knife:

Straight Knife:

Wave knife Straight knife Notch knife

 BAND KNIFE
• Features:
Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by
electric motor
Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible
Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife
This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable
This is like saw mill cutter
 BAND KNIFE
Advantage:
Used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required
Extensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts such as collars & cuff
Used more in men’s wear than ladies wear
Intensively risk of accident is low
Possible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric
Disadvantage:
Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveable
Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts
Not possible to cut fabric directly
Fabric wastage is high
Power loss is high
 ROUND KNIFE
• Features:
 Element of round knife:

 Base plate & Electric motor

 Handle for the cutter to direct the blade
 Rotating circular blade

 Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm

 Blade is circular
 Blade is driven by electric power

 Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm

•
 ROUND KNIFE
Advantage: Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multi-layers (say 20-
30 layers)
Suitable for small scale cutting
Suitable gentle curve cutting
Easy to operate
Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of lays
Not suitable for higher production
Possibility of accident is high
Difficult to cut small component
Needs skilled operator
 DIE CUTTING
• Features:
Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses &
Clickers
Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die, Motor
& Operating System of Ram
Die is made by metallic strip
Most useful to cut sharp & small parts
 DIE CUTTING
Working Principal:
Die is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of pattern
Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the cutting pad in
order that the fibers of the lowest ply are completely separated
For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required placement of
dies
The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the cutting pad
The gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when die is taken to cut
fabric lay
 DIE CUTTING
• Advantage:
Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress accurately
Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle
Comparatively less time required
Best method of cutting knitted fabric

• Disadvantage:
Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay
High labor cost
To change the style quickly is impossible
Difficult to cut large components of dress
 NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Features:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Used to cut notch in the edge of some components
The invention of notcher m/c was done to make notch
The notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape
 NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Advantage:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Useful to cut small notch to the fabric
Most useful to make consistency in notching

Disadvantage:
Only used to make notch
Thermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/c
Time loss
Use of the m/c is limited
 DRILL CUTTING M/C
Features:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for
pocket & dart setting
This m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit level
For tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for long
In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so that it
can easy to find the marked place
 DRILL CUTTING M/C
Advantage:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for setting
pocket & dart
Make the hole permanently for long time

Disadvantage:
Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting pocket & dart
For loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanently for long time