HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.

com/

Jacquard Fabric
Reading Guide

1. Jacquard Fabric Dedinition

2. Jacquard Fabric Classification
* Woven Jacquard Fabric
* Knit Jacquard Fabric
* Dobby Jacquard Fabirc
* Satin Jacquard Fabric
3. Jacquard Fabric Factory Samples
4. Jacquard Fabric Application

1. Jacquard Fabric Dedinition

Jacquard fabric is also called flower fabric. Warp or weft yarn is lift to exhibit a three-dimensional shape
while weaving. Each floating-point connection forms a variety of design patterns. Jacquard fabric
applications are very wide, such as for bedding, curtains, blankets, artwork and other textiles.

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

2. Jacquard Fabric Classification

In accordance with the basic principles of contexture, jacquard fabric can be divided into: woven
jacquard fabric and knitted jacquard fabric.

Woven Jacquard Fabric

Woven jacquard fabric refers to the dress fabric woven in woven or silk looms with interweave principle
of the warp and weft.

According to the raw materials can be divided into two categories:

1) Cotton (including fiber) main raw material products: including cotton jacquard fabric, elastic jacquard
fabric, polyester-cotton jacquard fabric, terry jacquard fabric, denim jacquard fabric, dyeing large
jacquard fabric, double-sided computer jacquard fabric, chenille jacquard fabric, and so on. Mainly used
for clothing, decorative items, bed linings.

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

2) The filament-based raw materials products: all kinds of jacquard silk, satin, brocade, silk, textile, etc.,
including silk jacquard tapestry products. Silk jacquard fabric can make fine patterns such as: silk
portraits, landscapes, and jacquard flowers Dragon on the quilts. It is used for clothing, bedding,
decorative items.

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Knit jacquard fabric

knit jacquard fabric has various categories. According to the structure, it can be divided into single-sided
and double-sided; by color can be divided into monochrome and multicolor. Single-sided jacquard fabric
according to similarity of coil size can be divided into uniform and non-uniform jacquard organization.
The uneven jacquard is widely used in socks and outerwear fabric. Double knit jacquard fabric according
to the structure is divided into completely and incomplete jacquard. Incomplete jacquard is more widely
used for its clear pattern-shape structural stability and ductility.

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Monochrome Jacquard fabric is firstly woven by the Jacquard loom before dying. It is usually in a solid
color; multicolor jacquard fabric is firstly yarn dyed then woven in Jacquard loom, so there are two or
more colors. It is rich in colors, in high grade.

Weft knitted jacquard fabric pattern can be arbitrarily varied within a certain range, it is widely used in a
variety of garments and decorative items.

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

In accordance with jacquard pattern, it can be classified into dobby jacquard fabric and satin jacquard
fabric.

Dobby Jacquard Fabric

Dobby jacquard fabric pattern is not an ordinary printed, nor embroidered, but woven out by yarn. The
pattern is differed by the changes in the organizational structure of warp and weft. Warp and weft yarn is
interwoven to constitute a different pattern. Usually dobby jacquard fabric is thin, and very soft, very
dense. It has high demands to the cotton, the yarns should be fine enough, usually around 40s. Also
count the greater, the thinner; the smaller, the thicker. Thickness depends on the number of branches of
your fabric. Dobby jacquard fabric count generally is about 40.

Dobby jacquard fabric is made by dobby loom with two or more kinds of fabric change to form a variety
of small patterns on the fabric surface.
Usually it has small patterns in same or different color with the base fabric in plain or twill configure
organizations. The common patterns of dobby jacquard fabric are line, stripe lattice, scatter pattern.

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Dobby jacquard fabric looks tight, delicate and careful, the pattern is not very prominent, exaggerated,
and is more often used for thin fabric.

Satin Jacquard Fabric

Satin jacquard fabric is a two-layer or multi-layer thick fabric with complex organizational structure. It
is famous for its pattern characteristics and usage. Unlike dobby jacquard fabric, it has different
techniques. For consumers, the most obvious difference is that stain jacquard fabric is able to weave
much richer pattern than mini jacquard fabric.

Satin jacquard fabric feels full, thick texture. It is extremely wear resistant. Satin jacquard fabric has
good air permeability, sitting comfortable, no stuffy or tide feeling. With hierarchical pattern, it creates
three-dimensional effect. Therefore, with respect to the general fabric, Satin jacquard fabric is more
comfortable, durable, with beautiful flowers, and more suitable for household use.

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Satin jacquard fabric is large pattern fabric woven with jacquard. The number of yarn count of the full
warp pattern varies from several hundred to more than thousands of roots.
Jacquard towel, jacquard blankets, silk fabric in many Jacquard weave pattern all are satin jacquard
fabric.

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

3. Jacquard Fabric Samples

Velour jacquard fabric

Super soft 100% polyester velour jacquard fabric

composition: 100% polyester
yarn count: 75D/144F
width: 58/60"cm
weight: 180-350gsm

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Double sided jacquard fabric/ Clothing

fabric/50%rayon50%polyeste

Jacquard Fabric Price: US $1.3 - 1.31 / Meter

Material: Rayon / Polyester
Density: 210*88
Weight: 145gsm
Technics: Woven
Yarn Count: 75D*32S
Brand Name: Microfine

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

fabric curtain wholesale / jacquard curtain fabric /

curtain fabric

Material: 100% polyester

Usage: Curtain,Bedding,Cushion,Tablecloth etc.
Weight: 380-580GSM
Density: 126*21-28

100% cotton printed thermal knit fabric jacquard

knitting fabric

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Customized: professional jacquard fabric manufacturer, reasonable jacquard fabric price.

jacquard fabric factory is located in hainig with nice quality and service.
High quality elour jacquard fabric manufacturer
INTERTEK SGS certification
Competitive velour jacquard fabric price
Reliable velour jacquard fabric factory

4. Jacquard Fabric Application

Jacquard fabric has a very broad application. It can not only for making casual pants, sportswear, suits,
etc., but it is the bed material. Garments made of such dress fabric are comfortable, and very popular.
"Stretch satin jacquard fabric is used in big bright polyester FDY 50D * DTY75D + spandex 40D as raw
material, satin weave in jet loom woven. Since the warp yarn is large bright silk, making the fabric has a
charm light. Stretch satin jacquard fabric has the advantages of light, thin, flexible, comfortable, shiny.

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Fashion Jacquard Fabric Shoes

Jacquard Fabric Dress for Elegant Women

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

 HaiNing JinTian Textile Co.,Ltd http://www.jin-sky.com/

Jacquard Fabric socks are very warm

Email: hnandycen@jin-sky.com Telephone: ＋86-573-87987880 Mobile: +86 13736849818

JACQUARDS

1
 INTRODUCTION
• Jacquards is a n additional attachment to the
machine to create an intricate and complex
pattern.
• Origin of the word jacquard applies to weaving.
• First invented in 1804 by Joseph Marie Jacquard.
• The term was applied to knitting much later when
perforated card system was devised for
attachment to V bed flat knitting machines.
• There are no. of mechanisms available were
needles are selected to produce knit in design.
• Many designers make use of the jacquards pattern
for the intricate look of the garment.
2
3
 TYPES OF JACQUARD
• Apart from the woven fabric, jacquard fabric also
refers to a rib-based, double jersey weft-knit fabric
on which a figure or design appears in a different
color or texture.
• Jacquard fabrics are further sub-divided into flat-
jacquard and blister fabrics.
• The flat jacquard patterns have equal number of
loops in each wale of the pattern knitting.
• It is not so with blister fabrics.
• Commonly found jacquard fabrics are brocade,
damask and tapestries etc.

4
 For each type the design width will be determined by the number of
feeds on the machine, the number of colors in the pattern and by the
number of different patterning selections made at each feed.

Three main types of jacquard fabrics recognized by the size of the

area may be classified as follows:
• Intermediate jacquard: smallest design area with maximum design
width 24 wales.
• Medium jacquard: max design width- approximately 48 wales.
• Full jacquard: max design width approximately 144 wales.

As in an indication of typical sizes of pattern areas available produced

on 18 cut machines in rib jacquards fabrics are:
• Intermediate jacquard:25 mm x 12mm (1 inch wide ½ inch deep)
• Medium jacquard: 50mm x 90mm( 2 inch wide x 3 ½ inch deep)
• Full jacquard: 140mm x 165mm ( 5 ½ inch wide x 6 ½ inch deep)

5
 RIB JACQUARD

PATTERN WHEEL PATTERN DRUM PROGRAMME TAPE

•Inserted jacks •Peg type •Vertical bad

•Snipped jacks •Selector type •Circular band
•Electronic band

6
 RIBBED JACQUARD DOUBLE KNIT
• "Ribbed" means that it is worked with alternating knit and purl
stitches with the knit stitches arranged in columns and the purl
stitches in alternating columns.
• "Jacquard" means it is a two color pattern, also called Fair Isle.
• Each row will contain short stretches of one color while the other
color is carried out of sight on the back.
• "Double knit" means the fabric is reversible. Basically it's two pieces
of fabric with the private sides (insides) touching each other, but
both sides of the fabric are knit at the same time.
• Each time a color changes, the two fabrics are joined together.
• The resulting effect is that one side is a mirrored negative of the
other side.
• Ribbed jacquard double knit fabric is one that encompasses all of
those features in one fabric

7
8
 RIB JACQUARD MECHANISM
PATTERN WHEEL MECHANISM:
• most widely used needle selecting jacquard
mechanism placed on knitting machine at 38-45
degree
• it comprises of raising cam, wing cam and stitch
cam
• the slots are filled with jacks of different types .
• needle activated by high jack will rise to knit
position
• if the slot is empty needle becomes inoperative
and stays to float position.
• a low type of jack will raise the needle to tuck
position. 9
10
 PATTERN DRUM
MECHANISM:
• Pattern drum do not
operate on needles directly
they operate on jacks below
.
Two types:
• 1 multi-step selection:
selectors inserted in the
grooves of the pattern drum
• 2 peg drum machines:
metal pegs are inserted in
the holes of pattern drum 11
 TAPE PATTERNING DEVICES:
• needles are selected by an endless tape, punched with
holes.

Punched Steel Tape Jacquard:

Modification of pattern wheel mechanism.
wheel contains special types of jacks.
The steel tape acts on pointed end of jack .
If there is a hole in tape, the jack remains
undisturbed so the jack butt engages the
cam and needle is raised to required
position.

12
Punched Paper-roll Jacquard:
instead of steel tape , paper roll or plastic sheet
is used.
this gives unlimited scope for needle selection.
depth of pattern depends on length of roll.
13
 CIRCULAR KNITTING JACQUARD
MECHANISM
1. A jacquard mechanism mounted in a circular knitting machine for
knitting a jacquard fabric, comprising:
• a fixed selector cam having one track for guiding a knitting needle,
and a sliding slot.
• a movable selector cam
• a driving mechanism controlled to move movable selector cam
between upper position and lower position
2. The jacquard mechanism of claim 1 wherein auxiliary track
comprises a tucking track
3. The jacquard mechanism of claim 2 wherein movable selector cam
comprises a sloping front surface configured to lift knitting needle to
tucking position
4. The jacquard mechanism of claim 1 wherein fixed selector cam
comprises a vertical rail slot for guiding the movement of movable
selector cam
5. The jacquard mechanism of claim 1 wherein driving mechanism
further comprises a board coupled to and turned by servo motor and
having two wings spaced 180 degree.
14
DEVELOPMENT OF JACQUARDS
• The development of Jacquards which rely on
electronic (computer) information rather than
actual punched cards has greatly reduced the
costs of the equipment, materials and labour
required to convert a design into “ready to
weave” condition.
• Recent Jacquards can connect to digital
networks, such as Ethernet, thus permitting
direct transfer of patterns from the design
computer.
• The number of Jacquard hooks per mechanism
has been steadily increasing from around 1000
in the 19th century to over 12,000 at the end of
the 20th. 15
COMPUTERISED SINGLE KNIT JACQUARD
COMPUTERISED DOUBLE KNIT
JACQUARD

16
 COST
• The simplification of Jacquard mechanisms has
reduced the cost per hook of manufacturing a
Jacquard.
• Lower purchase costs, especially since the electronic
versions.
• no longer require support equipment such as punches.
• This in turn has made possible the re-emergence of
the hand-loom Jacquards, such as the TC-1 and
TIS/SAMT systems.
• These new mechanisms have brought Jacquard
technology well into the reach of schools and even of
some individuals.

17
 ELECTRONIC DEVICES
• The patterning capacity of a knitting unit can be made
unlimited by the use of electronic devices for selecting
the needles.
• There is no limitation to the width and height of the
pattern.
• The solid state circuits can now transform the light
energy into electrical energy, convert AC to DC and
amplify small amount of energy to a high voltage.
• This way it reduces both the preparation time and cost
the of design as compared
to the mechanical one.

18
 ADVANTAGES
• Work done on incredible speed
• Long lasting, do not wear out as the metal
component
• Efficiency and reliability of electronic
components is greater
• Space occupying mechanical parts can be
dispensed by light-weight transistors

19
20
 CAD/CAM
• pre-manufacturing with the help of computer based
products
• to create prototypes
• arcane software is used

INTERFACING CAD WITH ELECTRONIC JACQUARD

• simplify both production and processing of jacquard design.
• cardboard and pattern plate is replaced by magnetic tape in
electrical jacquard.
• data required for shed formation is processed on the
available programming system which provides CAD.

21
CAD software in jacquard
machine

22
VINTAGE JACQUARDS

23
DESIGNERS

MISSONI

24
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

25
THANK YOU

26