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Planine Centralne Crne Gore PDF PDF
Planine Centralne Crne Gore PDF PDF
(Planinarski vodiĉ)
Ţeljko Musović
ISBN 9781301452088
www.smashwords.com/books/view/296459
Smashwords
Los Gatos, California USA
2
ŢELJKO MUSOVIĆ
License Notes
This book is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. It
may not be re-sold or given away to other people. Although
this is a free book, it remains the copyrighted property of the
author, and may not be reproduced, copied and distributed for
commercial or non-commercial purposes.
Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.
2016.
3
Opisi tura su u potpunosti rezultat boravka na terenu – stanje kakvo
je zateĉeno 2015-2016. godine. Na ţalost, izvjesno je da su u nekim
sluĉajevima poţari i ljudi uĉinili svoje i uništili pojedine putokaze.
4
Uvod
5
Ipak, moţe se reći da dobro uvjeţbana grupa penje najveći broj
ovih vrhova za oko 2 ure.
Što se sezone tiĉe, to je, kao što ćete viĊeti, uglavnom, pe-
riod maj-oktobar iz prostog razloga što se do većine naših planina i
vrhova tokom zime moţe teško doći. Putevi su pod snijegom i ne
ĉiste se, jer na tim prostorima od novembra do aprila, ili maja nema
stalnih stanovnika. Osim toga, ljudi sa kojima idem u planinu, ja i
moj ĉetvoronogi, dugodlaki drug Goja baš i nijesmo nešto „pone-
šeni“ za hodom po mekom i dubokom snijegu tokom decembra,
januara i februara i obiĉno tada samo skitamo po Studenaĉkim gla-
vicama i penjemo brda u okolini Nikšića. Ali, ako ste mladi i imate
ţivota i volje, zimski usponi su (zavisno od visine i tvrdoće snijega)
mogući na Vojnik, Prekornicu, Borovnik...
U ovom dijelu Crne Gore su planine, odnosno staze do vr-
hova, (dobro) markirane samo u nekoliko sluĉajeva, ali su sve rute
opisane tako da planinar ne zavisi od toga da li markacija postoji ili
ne. Trudio sam se da budem precizan i da svaku turu prikaţem kao
da je „odraĊujemo“ prvi put, bez modernih elektronskih pomagala,
a par (za opis) komplikovanijih uspona je i ucrtan na odgovaraju-
ćim fotografijama.
I, na kraju, ne zaboravite: „uĉenje“ koje kaţe da zmije rije-
tko borave na visinama iznad 1600 m na ovim prostorima ne vaţi –
naći ćete ih i iznad 2100 mnv.
Dakle, samo polako i sretno!
6
Preface
7
in a couple of cases), because it depends on many things: your
orientation skills, physical characteristics of the terrain, difficulty of
ascent, how fit you are… Nevertheless, it is safe to say that a well-
trained group can climb most of the peaks in about 2 hours.
You will see that the most frequently recommended time
for climbing is May-October. The reason for that is really simple: a
large number of mountains in this area cannot be reached during
winter months. Accessing roads are covered in snow and they are
rarely or never cleaned because there is no economical need for
that: our mountains are practically uninhabited from November to
May. However, if you are young, ready, and willing, there are
several winter tours that you might be interested in: Prekornica,
Vojnik, Borovnik...
It is also good to
know that (in most
cases) the trails to
the summits are un-
marked. Therefore,
every route is des-
cribed in a way that
a mountaineer does
not depend on way-
marks, if they exist
or not. In addition, since we do not need and never use any of those
modern electronic devices on our “expeditions”, I have tried to be
thorough where necessary and as accurate as possible. Naturally, all
descriptions are supplemented with the appropriate photographs
and please do not overlook the ones given in the descriptions in the
Serbian-Croatian or Montenegrin language.
And in the end, last but not least, the “teaching” which says
that snakes rarely inhabit areas above 1600 meters above sea level
does not apply to the mountains of central Montenegro – you will
come across these creatures even at 2100 meters!
So, pace yourself and good luck!
8
PREKORNICA – Kula 1927 mnv
Opis ture: Krenuti putem izmeĊu kuća prema potoku Smrdan, t.j.
Susjed, a zatim nastaviti jakom stazom prema njegovom izvoru. Iza
izvora, na lijevoj strani suvog korita, nalazi se nagnuta livada koju
treba dijagonalno preći i ući u šumu da bi se došlo do staze koja
vodi naviše ka proplanku Turija. Kretati se desnim obodom Turije,
preći makadamski put i uputiti se prema šumskom putu ispred vas.
Pratite ga sve dok ne primijetite da ide previše udesno (polukrug) i
uzbrdo, a onda produţite lijevo prosjeĉenom stazom – ţdrijelom
kroz šumu. Kad doĊete do drveta na kom se nalazi urezana strelica
proĊite ga i skrenite desno. Penjete brdo (drveća je vidljivo manje
nego u okolini) i dolazite na drugi šumski put. Sa tog mjesta se vidi
Kula i njen ĉuveni sipar koji zovemo „Kuloar“. Do njega stiţete
prateći put, a zatim izlazite na greben (lijevo) i hodate kratko kroz
šumu (ne)postojećom stazom. Vrh i sipar bi trebalo da budu uvijek
9
ispred vas. Ne obraćajte paţnju na krakove puta koji vas odvlaĉe
isuviše lijevo ili desno.
Do Kuloara moţete
doći i ţdrijelom, kroz šumu,
povremeno skaĉući sa jedne
stijene na drugu. Kad izaĊe-
te na ĉistinu, završite uspon
siparom ili (ako to ne ţelite)
njegovom lijevom, klekovi-
to-stjenovitom stranom. ZaobiĊite (spaljene) borove kleke i nakon
desetak minuta ste na vrhu.
Napomene: Uspon na Prekornicu spada u one napornije. Staza do
Kuloara je djelimiĉno obiljeţena i oĉišćena u maju 2013. Ovaj opis
je uraĎen na osnovu stanja na terenu kakvo je bilo ljeta te godine i
sasvim je moguće da je u meĊuvremenu došlo do promjena, to jest,
bujanja vegetacije i „prekrivanja“ staze, naroĉito u drugom dijelu.
Na ţalost, ova planina ne spada u one posjećenije, a ni odrţavanije.
10
11
PREKORNICA – Kula 1927 m
12
Kula and the notorious scree slope which we call the Couloir. Walk
along the track towards the peak and pay no attention to the side-
paths going to the left (or right).
In the last part of the approach leave the “track” and simply
walk along the ridge through the forest. There is no conspicuous
trail, but the peak is always visible. Finally, climb the Couloir, find
the best way through or, even better, behind the dwarf pine wood,
then head right, and you will reach the top in a few minutes.
Additional notes: The ascent of Prekornica is rather strenuous and
demands both physical and mental fitness. The trail was marked in
April 2011, but not well and not completely. Also, since than it has
not been maintained at all, and I have to point out that this descript-
ion depicts the field conditions as they were in the summer of 2013.
It is very likely that the nature has taken its course in the meantime
and vegetation might have covered parts of the trail, particularly in
the area after Turija.
The stream Pištevac, which can be seen on the map, is now
defunct. The terrain from Turija to Kula is completely waterless,
but you can find snow even in August if you walk down the ridge
(W/NW, in the direction of Ţupa) to a number of depressions below
the summit. You do not have to climb back to the top, because there
is a way to the Couloir in the form of a rocky ledge which runs
along the crag.
13
VOJNIK – Vojnik 1998 mnv
Period: januar-decembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – put za Šavnik, 5 km
od raskrsnice, jedina kuća na lijevoj strani puta.
Visinska razlika: oko 800 m
14
Kad ponovo izaĊete na put, idete desno i pratite ga do sljedeće
preĉice. Na njenom kraju nastavljate desno i ubrzo ćete ugledati du-
gaĉki greben glavnog vrha (prethodna slika). Pratite put sve dok na
lijevoj strani ne primijetite stazu koja ukoso kroz bukovu šumu vo-
di naviše do drugog puta, a potom i u katun Štirni do. Na „raskrsni-
ci“ je natpis sa imenom katuna na stijeni. (Put produţava dalje, ali
se, kao i onaj donji, kojim ste došli, iznenada završava u šumi.)
Od katuna poĉinje
pravi uspon. Prav-
aca ima nekoliko i
ĉak je par njih ne-
ko djelimiĉno oz-
naĉio. MeĊutim, u
dijelu nakon kleka
(na slici lijevo one
su pokrivene veli-
kim smetom) nije-
dna od „staza“ nije
jasno vidljiva. Zato mi se ĉini da je najbolje slijediti oznake koje su
vas i dovele do Štirnog dola – ako ništa drugo, makar idu do vrha.
U svakom sluĉaju, proĊite pored bukove šume iznad Dola, nastavite
uzbrdo izmeĊu kleka (malo udesno) i izaĊite na greben. Dalje baš i
nemate puno izbora – pratite greben, a zatim, u tom dijelu, vidljivu
stazu i eto vas nas kraju puta.
Ako je dan lijep, sa Vojnika moţete viĊeti najveći dio Crne
Gore. Oni spremniji, mogu se preko malo teţeg terena uputiti ka
istoku i spuštiti na prevoj sa kog se lako penje susjedni, Gradni vrh.
Napomene: Planina je najvjerovatnije dobila ime po biljki Hvoinik
/ (lat. Ephédra equisetína), ili po (slovenskoj?) rijeĉi hvoj
/x (iglice), odnosno (lat. Pinóphyta, Coníferae) što je
opšta oznaka za bor, jelu i drugo zimzeleno drveće.
Staze na Vojniku (ukljuĉujući i jednu koja nije opisana u
ovom vodiĉu – do vrha Troglav 1673 m) su oĉišćene i markirane.
Teren je bezvodan, a nakon juna na juţnoj strani Vojnika
(osim u vrtaĉi u blizini Gradnog vrha), naţalost, nema ni snijega.
* Ovo je samo jedna od nekoliko mogućnosti za uspon na
glavni vrh Vojnika.
15
VOJNIK – Vojnik 1998 m
Season: January-December
Access: Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – the road to Šavnik, 5
km from the junction; the only house on the left side of the road.
Elevation difference: about 800 m
Route description: The trailhead is next to the house, on the left.
Cross the first clearing diagonally and then walk shortly through the
wood to another clearing. The path will soon meet up with the
forest track leading to the katun of Vioĉ do. [*katun = shepherds’
huts or cottages; do = small field] When you reach it, turn left and
walk along the edge of the field towards the passage (NW). Follow
the trail to the left for about 100 meters, cross the road, and enter a
beautiful (and conspicuous) path through the forest. As you see on
the map, this path is actually a longish shortcut. When you get to
the road again, turn right and follow it to the first junction. (Also
see the note and map.) Take the right track and stay on it until you
notice the path branching off to the left and rising to the macadam
road above you. It will take you straight to Štirni do. If you miss
that path, leave the road you have been following anyway and head
uphill, because “your” road will, as well as the one you are climb-
ing to, suddenly stop in the forest after a few hundred meters. Now
you should already be able to see the entire route of the last part of
this tour which, of course, starts from the katun. The trail to the top
is hardly visible, but the waymarks are very clear. They do not lead
directly uphill (as shown on the map) but a bit to the right and then
along the ridge. In the final section of the ascent you will have only
a couple of options, but probably the best thing to do is to follow
the recognizable path to the summit.
If the weather is clear, from Vojnik you can see the greater
part of Montenegro. Those who are physically fit can prolong this
tour by descending to the saddle (E) from which the neighbouring
Gradni vrh can be easily approached. (Circular tour)
Additional notes: All the trails on this mountain (including the one
not described in this Guide – to the peak Troglav, 1673 m) are re-
16
gularly cleaned and marked.
The terrain is waterless, and the only place where you can
find snow during summer month is the depression near Gradni vrh.
17
VOJNIK – Gradni vrh 1967mnv, Mramorje 1920 mnv
Opis ture: Prvi dio ture, do Vioĉ dola, je isti kao i za Vojnik. Dola-
zite do katuna i preko livade se upućujete ka kolibi na rubu bukove
šume. Prolazite pored nje i slijedite stazu kroz šumu, uz vododerinu
prema prevoju Mramorovi (1673). Nakon petnaestak minuta izlazi-
te na travnato-kamenitu padinu vrha Mramorje i nastavljate naporan
uspon do stjenovitog grebena (na slici lijevo od vrha). Ako ne ţelite
da penjete Mramorje, jednostavno ga proĊite i izmeĊu kleka krenite
u pravcu Sedla bez velikog padanja (ili penjanja u povratku). Sa
Sedla odraĊujete posljednji dio uspona i stiţete na Gradni vrh – po
(ne samo) mom mišljenju, jedan od ljepših u Crnoj Gori. Da biste
se u to i uvjerili, poslije kratkog odmora produţite grebenom naniţe
i udesno (nema potrebe da penjete prvi vrh na koji naiĊete) sve dok
vam se ne ukaţe izvanredan pogled na Gradni vrh i okolinu.
Do Vioĉ dola se moţete vratiti starom, pomalo zaraslom (a
u donjem dijelu praktiĉno i nepostojećom) stazom koja sa Sedla ide
„kanalom“ prema jugu i direktno se spušta kroz šumu u Do.
Napomena: Izvor koji je ucrtan na karti je samo sezonska pojava –
dok na planini ima snijega.
18
VOJNIK – Gradni vrh 1967 m, Mramorje 1920 m
Route description: The first part of the route is the same as for Vo-
jnik. When you reach Vioĉ do, go across the field to the cottage at
the edge of beech forest. Pass it from the left side and follow the
conspicuous trail which goes uphill (little to the right), through the
forest, and on to the pass Mramorovi (1673 m). Once you get out of
the forest, you may decide to climb the peak Mramorje (with its
“never-ending” grassy-rocky slope), descend to Sedlo, and finally
climb Gradni vrh. [vrh = peak] Or, you can only go up to the stony
ridge (left from the main peak; see the picture of Mramorje), walk
around it, and get to Sedlo directly, without a significant height loss
– very important on your way back.
Gradni vrh is one of the finest peaks in Montenegro, but
you might not get that impression unless you do the following: rest
for a while at the top and then start descending along the ridge (W).
After a few hundred meters you will have a magnificent view of the
peak you have just come down from.
19
On your way back
you do not have to fo-
llow the same route. If
you prefer, you can use
the older, today almost
forgotten and sporadic-
ally overgrown path to
the south which begins
from the saddle /Sedlo,
goes through the gully,
and descends steeply to
Vioĉ do.
Additional notes: The
spring which is shown
on the map is now just
a short seasonal pheno-
menon; you will not be
able to find it after the snow melts. If you find yourself at Sedlo in
August or September be sure to taste the blueberries!
20
VOJNIK – Četiri manja vrha
21
visinu sve dok ne doĊete do povećeg proširenja na kom su ranije
odlagana posjeĉena stabla. Na izlasku iz krivine, na desnoj strani je
poĉetak stare staze kroz šumu prema vrhu Mali Vojnik.
Ako ţelite da
popnete niţi, ali
ljepši i pristupa-
ĉniji Vel. Štuoc,
produţite putem
do prevoja. Kad
pored puta ugle-
date ostatke sru-
šene drvene šupe, proĊite ih sa lijeve strane i uĊite u kratku šumsku
stazu do vrha sa kog imate dobar pogled na kanjon Komarnice, ma-
siv Durmitora, Pivu, Goliju...
山
Jablan brdo 1774 mnv
Prilaz: Nikšić – Jasenovo polje – put za Šavnik – tunel Vojnik. Pa-
rkirati na proširenju sa desne strane puta, prije tunela.
Visinska razlika: oko 250 m
22
VOJNIK – Four lower peaks
23
山
Veliki Štuoc 1654 m, Mali Vojnik 1773 m
Access: Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – Javorak (›‹1230 m).
The turning to Ţiva is on the right, 8.2 km from Pluţine – Šavnik
junction. Follow the macadam road for about 3.5 km and park the
car in the clearing on the left. At both forks go right.
Elevation difference: about 415 m and 530 m
Route description: Walk along the road (through a beautiful forest)
towards Mt Vojnik (E). Go left at the “junction” and continue up-
hill (marked shortcuts). When you get to a large clearing, you will
notice the beginning of the old forest trail leading in the direction of
Mali Vojnik. →
However, if you
want to climb V.
Štuoc, follow the
“road” until you
reach the pass. Go
past the remains
of a wooden shed
to the left and en-
ter a short path through the wood. It will take you to the barren
slope of the peak from which you can have wonderful views of the
Komarnica canyon, Piva, Buruĉkovac, Durmitor, Golija…
山
Jablan brdo 1774 m
Access: Nikšić – Jasenovo polje – the road to Šavnik. Park the car
before the tunnel, at the widening on the right side of the road.
Elevation difference: about 250 m
Route description: Cross the road and head diagonaly for the ridge
and the edge of the forest (NW). The part of the route through the
forest is marked, but after that you do not need to follow the path
any more – on our way to Jablan brdo [brdo = hill] (the picture on
page 22) we always climb a chain of lower peaks.
24
GACKOVE GREDE 2004 mnv
Period: april-novembar
Prilaz: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Gvozd – Krnovo (vjetrenjaĉe);
2. Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – put za Šavnik –
Gradaĉka poljana – Krnovo. Skretanje za Gradaĉku poljanu je na
desnoj strani puta, nekoliko stotina metara prije tunela.
25
smet pruţa prema zapadu, a vi ste došli sa sjeverozapada, poţeljno
je da ne idete sve do dna, jer ćete tako završiti sa suprotne strane
Mlijeĉnih brda. (Vidi kartu.)
26
GACKOVE GREDE 2004 m
Season: April-November
Access: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Krnovo polje (windmills)
2. Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – the road to Šavnik
– Gradaĉka poljana – Krnovo polje. The turning to Gradaĉka po-
ljana is on the right, a few hundred meters before the tunnel.
If you do not mind walking about 5 km over the meadows
of Vjetrena brda until you reach the foothills of Gackove grede
[grede = cliffs/crags], you can park the car where the road from
Gradaĉka poljana joins the old Nikšić - Šavnik road (an uninhabited
house on the left). However, if you do mind, go right at the cross-
roads and after a few hundred meters turn left – a good macadam
road. Continue driving beside the windmills until you decide it is
enough. Gackove grede are in front of you (SE).
Elevation difference: about 400 m
Route description: This is a fairly easy tour and most of the time
you climb grassy slopes. The area is particularly beautiful in June,
and a special attraction in April or May is the snowdrift (Vratlo)
down which you can ski, or simply slide. However, since the snow-
drift is facing west, and you have come from the north-west, avoid
going all the way down to the bottom, because you might end on
the other side of Mlijeĉna brda. (See the map.)
If you are up
to it, or if you
have driven a
few kilometers
along the mac-
adam road (to
the foothills of
the mountain),
you can climb
Gackove grede
first, and then
proceed to the east – towards a little higher and more famous Veliki
Ţurim (2035).
27
Additional notes: On the left side of Krnovo polje you will notice
Ostrvica (1836) which reminds people of an enormous whale. It is
the favourite place of paragliding lovers from Nikšić and also a nice
tour for everyone who is about to start mountaineering. On your
way back from the top, you can descend gradually towards the west
in the direction of Krnovska glavica (1634 m) where you will find
several springs called Krnovska vrela.
Gackove grede
28
TRPEZARIJA 2032 mnv
Period: april-novembar
Prilaz: Kao i u prethodnom opisu. Prelazite Krnovo polje cijelom
duţinom (oko 5 km) dok ne doĊete na sam kraj Ostrvice.
Visinska razlika: oko 630 m (iz Štirnog dola)
29
Trpezarija i dio puta do Lole
Trpezarija and a part of the route to Lola
30
TRPEZARIJA 2032 m
Season: April-Novembar
Access: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Gvozd – Krnovo polje
2. Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – the road to Šavnik
– Gradaĉka poljana – Potrk – Krnovo polje. Drive all the way to the
end of Krnovo polje and Ostrvica (5 km).
Elevation difference: about 630 m, from Štirni do.
Route description: Since this is a (relatively) short tour, you can
park the car at the grassy
area before the road starts
going down to Štirni do –
another place/katun with
this name in Montenegro
(and there are few more).
But if you do not feel like
climbing back to it at the
end of the day, and/or you
have an all-terrain vehicle,
drive to the junction, turn
left, and follow the road.
Eventually, park the car in
the field ~ 50 meters away
from the last house on the right. The trail or, to be precise, a very
rough mountain road, goes uphill around Leţakovci and continues
in the direction of Mt Lola. Leave the road before it enters the flat-
ter grassy area on the left, turn towards the south-east, take a good
look at Trpezarija, and chose the best (or the easiest) way to the
summit. There is a short section of the trail, just before the peak,
which is slightly exposed so do not hurry.
After spending some time at the top, proceed along the
ridge towards the pass Crveno ţdrijelo. There turn left and go down
to the spring Korita. In order to get back to the road you have come
by climb the pass between Parinoga (right) and Trpezarija (left) and
then walk in the direction of Leţakovci.
31
LOLA – Veliki Zebalac 2129 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Potrk – Krnovo polje – Štirni do
2. Nikšić – Jasenovo polje – put za Šavnik – Gradaĉka
poljana – Potrk – Krnovo polje – Štirni do
Visinska razlika: oko 730 m (iz Štirnog dola)
32
V. Zebalac & Lijevno
33
LOLA – Veliki Zebalac 2129 m
Season: May-October
Access: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Gvozd – Krnovo polje – Štirni do.
2. Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – the road to Šavnik
– Gradaĉka poljana – Potrk – Krnovo polje – Štirni do
Elevation difference: about 730 m (from Štirni do)
34
Additional notes: The water from Osam korita (actually, the last
two have recently gone “out of order”) is surely one of the best and
coolest in Montenegro. However, if you decide to climb V. Zebalac
in May or the first half of June, it is very likely that you will not be
able to find the spring, because it is under a couple meters of snow.
If you feel like it and there is enough time, you can also
climb Mali Zebalac (2065) – the picture above.
* In the following description of Lijevno you will find one more
option for climbing Veliki Zebalac.
35
LOLA – Lijevno 2081 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Krnja Jela – prevoj Semolj –
Buĉum Javorje. (~ 80 km)
Visinska razlika: oko 440 m
36
LOLA – Lijevno 2081 m
Season: May-October
Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Krnja Jela – the pass Semolj –
Buĉum Javorje. (~ 80 km)
Elevation difference: about 440 m
37
road is marked, and you can follow it all the way to Ljeviĉke bare.
However, when you get there, leave the marked path (because it
leads in the direction of Vel. Zebalac) and head for the upper scree
in the middle of Lijevno. Walk around it from the left and climb the
ridge as shown in the picture on page 36.
* Lijevno can also be reached from the west. See the description of
Veliki Zebalac and the map on page 33.
38
BOROVNIK 1935 mnv
39
BOROVNIK 1935 m
Option 2:
Access: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Liverovići – Krstovaĉe (left and uphill,
the road is paved with cobblestones) – Zagrad – Konjsko. When
you get out of the forested area, turn left at the fork, and drive on
40
for about a kilometer. Park the car in the field, and then follow the
ascent route described in option 1.
41
MALI i VELIKI ŢURIM (1962 mnv i 2035 mnv)
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Krstovaĉe – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojo-
vića bare – kraj asfaltnog puta, katuni u podnoţju M. Ţurima. (Oko
30 km) Ostaviti automobil kod spomenika. Mali Ţurim je taĉno
ipred vas (SI), a Veliki je lijevo od njega.
Visinska razlika: od parkinga do V. Ţurima oko 400 m
Opis ture: Krenite siparom (desna strana M. Ţurima), ili još bolje,
stazom koja izmeĊu kuća vodi prema istoku do (neprimjetnog) pro-
laza iznad Zagaraĉkog katuna. Kad izaĊete na prevoj upućujete se
lijevo i poĉinjete uspon sa sjeveroistoĉne strane. Dio ispod vrha je
malo teţi, ali nije potrebna nikakva posebna oprema.
Slijedi spuštanje, pa opet lijevo ka napuštenom Piperskom
katunu (zovemo ga „selo Inka“) i konaĉno ulazite u stazu kojom se
penjete na Veliki Ţurim. Posljednji dio uspona ide travnatom padi-
nom. Izbjegavajte kretanje samom ivicom.
Nakon boravka na vrhu spuštate se istim putem, ali samo
do „sela Inka“ odakle skrećete na jugozapad. Pronalazite potok koji
teĉe izmeĊu Ţurimova i pratite ga dok ne doĊete do lijepih vodopa-
da. Tu se moţete odmoriti, ali i osvjeţiti na izvoru u blizini poĉetka
vodopada, u pravcu Vel. Ţurima. Do automobila se vraćate stazom
ispod sipara, završavajući tako kruţni obilazak M. Ţurima.
Naravno, ovi vrhovi se, u zavisnosti od grupe i vremena,
mogu peti i kao dvije zasebne ture.
42
MALI and VELIKI ŢURIM (1962 m and 2035 m)
Season: May-November
Access: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Krstovaĉe – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bo-
jovića bare [bare = marshes] – the end of the asphalt road, at the
foothill of Mali Ţurim. (~ 30 km) Park the car near the tombstone.
Mali Ţurim is in front of you and Veliki Ţurim is on the left.
Elevation difference: about 400 m (form the parking to V. Ţurim)
43
SW), there is a spring. You can refresh yourself there.
In order to finish this tour and get back to your car, you
have to follow the trail to the south running along the foothill of
Mali Ţurim at the bottom of the (talus) slope.
* Of course, this description is only a suggestion – there is
really no need to climb both of these peaks in one day.
44
ILIJIN VRH 2051 mnv, NIKOLIN VRH 1984 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Bojovića bare – Mali Ţurim
Visinska razlika: oko 420 m (Ilijin vrh)
45
ILIJIN VRH 2051 m, NIKOLIN VRH 1984 m
Season: May-November
Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Bojovića bare – Mali Ţurim
Elevation difference: about 420 m (Ilijin vrh)
46
of Ilijin vrh towards the east. If you take a look at the map, you will
see two options for climbing this peak: left and right. However, the
one which starts from the lower pass is perhaps a bit easier and, in
my opinion, better.
47
STOŢAC – Stoţac 2141 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero. Vozilo, bilo bi do-
bro da je terensko zbog posljednjih 6 kilometara od Bara Bojovića
do Jezera, parkirati na livadi, ili pored vikend kućice na lijevoj stra-
ni prije posljednje uzbrdice prema Kapetanovom jezeru.
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m
48
STOŢAC – Stoţac 2141 m
Season: May-November
Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero. The last six kilo-
metres of the macadam road from Bojovića bare (where the asphalt
turns left) to the lake are rather rough, so an all-terrain vehicle is
advised. Leave it in the field (or near the cottage on the left) – there
is really no need to park the car at the shore of the lake.
Elevation difference: about 500 m
Route description: Walk along the road (uphill) in the direction of
the lake. The trail branches off to the right (E). It is very clear, but
after the pass it divides. Use the left track which goes along the crag
(the right one leads to Manito/Brnjiĉko jezero). Cross the short
talus section, enter the
passage, and then fo-
llow the path through
the gully. Eventually,
after passing Mljeĉev
do, (the rugged, stony
area on the right side)
it will take you to the
grassy slopes and you will notice a couple of trails. Personally, I
prefer the upper one, because it leads directly to the main peak,
without steep ascents. The views are excellent.
49
STOŢAC – Bodiguz 1966 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Isti kao i za Stoţac.
Visinska razlika: oko 330 m
Opis ture: Parkirati na livadi pored puta, ili na proširenju ispred
pomenute kućice. Ne ići u pravcu Kapetanovog jezera, već se vratiti
malo unazad i, obilazeći moĉvarni predio, doći do katuna koji se
nalazi ispod greda. Staza poĉinje iza kolibe, lijevo. Iako to na prvi
pogled izgleda malo vjerovatno, ubrzo izlazite na prevoj, a onda
idete desno, preko kamenitog terena, postepeno se spuštajući do Br-
njiĉkog, ili Manitog jezera...
Nastavljate prema jugoistoku, pored Bare i ulazite u jaku
stazu ka Jezerini i nekadašnjem katuništu Brnjik. Na desnoj strani,
više od 1000 metara ispod vas, nalazi se selo Velje Duboko. Nema
potrebe da se zaustavljate i gledate, jer ćete ubrzo zaista uţivati u
idealnom pogledu. Moţete zaobići prvi vrh na koji naiĊete sa lijeve
strane, ali, na ţalost, to vam ne znaĉi puno, jer ćete ipak morati da
izgubite nekih 70 metara u visini prije posljednjeg uspona.
50
STOŢAC – Bodiguz 1966 m
Season: May-November
Access: The same as for Stoţac.
Elevation difference: about 330 m
Proceed towards the south-east, pass the marsh Bara, and enter the
well-established trail leading to Jezerina and the (deserted) katun of
Brnjik.
51
Little more than a thousand meters below there is a village called
Velje Duboko. You can stop and have a look but there is really no
need for taking longer breaks, because you will soon enjoy the ideal
view. Likewise, do not climb the 1st peak you come across – simply
walk around it from
the left. Unfortuna-
tely, you will still
lose some height (~
70 m) before the fi-
nal ascent.
Besides a bird’s-
eye view of Velje
Duboko, Bodiguz also offers wonderful views of Lukanje ĉelo,
Tali, the numerous peaks of Mt Maganik, and the beginning of the
Mrtvica canyon.
52
KAPA MORAČKA – Krutaš 2132 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojovića bare – kraj asfaltnog
puta (katuni u podnoţju M. Ţurima)
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m
53
KAPA MORAČKA – Krutaš 2132 m
Season: May-November
Access: Nikšić – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojovića bare – the end of
the asphalt road (Mali Ţurim)
Elevation difference: about 500 m
Route description: Go west, across the talus slope on the left side
of M. Ţurim, and then follow the trail which goes above Piperski
katun. Now head for the elevation point 1777, pass it from the left
and proceed towards Dolovi without losing height. In that way you
will reach Šljemena and the path running over it. When you get to
the ridge, take a look towards the north-east and you will see the
54
inconspicuous grassy peak which was rarely climbed by mountain-
eers before 2005 – that is Krutaš.
55
KAPA MORAČKA – Lastva 2226 mnv, Štit 2191 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Varijanta 1:
Prilaz: Nikšić – Bare Bojovića – kraj asfaltnog puta (M. Ţurim)
Visinska razlika: oko 600 m
56
Lastva & Štit
57
KAPA MORAČKA – Lastva 2226m, Štit 2191 m
Season: May-November
Option 1:
Access: Nikšić – Bare Bojovića – the end of the asphalt road (at the
foothill of Mali Ţurim)
Elevation difference: about 600 m
Route description: The first part of the route (to the range Šljeme-
na) is the same as in the previous description. You can see Štit but
not Lastva. Follow the range and at the lowest section head for the
elevation point 1919. The terrain is very unusual – you can walk
over large flat rocky areas or simply go around them and start the
ascent of the pass, below the peak Zvornik (2156). Once you get
there, the recognizable path will take you to your destination.
On your way
back from Last-
va, you can also
visit Štit. Follow
the ridge to the
west. Go around
a couple of large
depressions and
continue uphill
towards the peak
which offers wonderful views of neighbouring Lastva, Krutaš, Vra-
godo, and other surrounding mountains.
58
Additional notes: From Štit you do not have to return to the depre-
ssions and trail to Lastva – there is a narrow passage (SE) through
which you can descend directly to the elevation point 1919. Yes, it
is a bit steep, but nothing to worry about.
Option 2:
Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 554 m
Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore
of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo.
[prodo = passage] When you reach the fork at the end of the rise,
leave the road and go left/north towards the pass between Krstac
(2098) and Zvornik in order to join the trail from option 1. Or, if
you are looking for adventure, head directly for the peak.
59
KAPA MORAČKA – Zagradac 2217 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero
Visinska razlika: 545 m
Opis ture: Slijediti put koji ide lijevom obalom jezera, a zatim kroz
Radojevu prodo. (Vidi prethodnu fotografiju, Lastva, varijanta 2.)
Na kraju tog uspona put se razdvaja. Idete lijevo, odnosno pravo, i
nastavljate kretanje gore-dolje u pravcu sjeveroistoka. Zagradac je
60
posljednji vrh koji vidite (a zapravo pretposljednji) u lancu na lije-
voj strani. Ostatak uspona je ucrtan na slici – opis na engleskom.
61
KAPA MORAČKA – Zagradac 2217 m
Season: May-November
Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 545 m
Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore
of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo. (See
the photo in the description of Lastva, option 2.) When you reach
the junction at the end of the rise, take the left track, i.e. go straight
ahead and proceed towards the north-east, elevation point 1925.
Zagradac is the highest (distant) peak of the mountain range on the
left. The rest of the route is shown in the picture.
Many mountaineers consider Zagradac as one of the most
attractive peaks of the mountains of Moraĉa.
Additional notes: The last part of the route should be climbed with
increased concentration. Once you get to the shoulder (right from
the summit) you will be able to see the sharp “knuckles” of Pocki
vrh. “Ordinary” mountaineers should avoid climbing these peaks
without additional equipment.
* The map of Zagradac is also useful for the tours on Vojinovac &
Staraĉka gradina, as well as for Lastva, option 2.
62
VOJINOVAC 2050 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero
Visinska razlika: 378 m
Opis ture: Put ide lijevom obalom jezera, a zatim kroz Radojevu
prodo. Na kraju uspona (prevoj Krstac, 1908 m) ne ići ni lijevim ni
desnim krakom puta, nego nastaviti livadom u pravcu planine ĉiji
lijevi dio „nedostaje“ – to je Vojinovac. Tako ćete ponovo doći do
puta (iznad katuna Markov mramor) i prirodnog prolaza koji vodi
do poĉetka greda. Odatle se penjete ka glavnom vrhu. Staza (ovĉija)
postoji, ali, na ţalost, prolazi ispod grebena. Jedna mogućnost za
izlazak je prikazana na karti.
63
VOJINOVAC 2050 m
Season: May-November
Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 378 m
Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore
of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo.
When you reach the junction at the end of the rise, leave the road(s)
and walk over grassy terrain in the direction of the mountain whose
left part “is missing” – Vojinovac. In that way you will get to the
road again. Cross it and head for the beginning of the crag. There is
a clear path leading to the grassy area bellow the ridge/peak. One
ascent option is given on the map.
64
Vojinovac & Staraĉka gradina
65
STARAČKA GRADINA 1975 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero
Visinska razlika: 303 m
Opis ture: Prvi dio ove ture je isti kao za Vojinovac sve do poĉetka
greda. Nastavljate preko sipara (ispod greda) i ulazite u stazu koja
će vas odvesti iza Vojinovca. Sa njene desne strane se nalaze dvije
jame u kojima uvijek ima snijega. Kad preĊete travnati prevoj, dalje
idete prema istoku lijevim, gornjim krakom staze. Krećete se gore-
dolje, dijelom i preko stjenovitog terena, ali i nepogrešivo dolazite
do jednog od naših omiljenih vrhova. Poloţaj Staraĉke gradine je
izuzetan, a samim tim i pogled na okolne planine i Gornju Moraĉu.
Napomene: Za
ovaj vrh bi bilo
dobro da izabe-
rete neki od „ĉi-
stijih“ dana – na
primjer, u septe-
mbru. U blizini,
juţno od vrha, je
jezerce, odnosno
malo veća lokva (nije u pitanju Mileva lokva koju vidite na karti), a
tu su i ostaci nekadašnjeg katuna.
66
STARAČKA GRADINA 1975 m
Season: May-November
Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 303 m
Route description: The first part of the tour is the same as for Vo-
jinovac. But, when you get to the beginning of the crag, proceed
carefully across the scree slope. The trail will take you to the other
side of Vojinovac. From there head east and follow the left/upper
track of the path which switchbacks over rocky and grassy terrain
but also unmistakably leads to one
of our favourite peaks. The loca-
tion of Staraĉka gradina is quite
extraordinary, and so are the views
of the surrounding mountains.
Additional notes: If you decide to
visit this peak, make sure that it is
one of the clearer spring or autumn
days. There is a small pond/lake in
the vicinity, but it is not Mileva
lokva which is shown on the map.
You will also see the remains of
the katun after which this peak got its name and a couple of “snow
pits”.
67
LUKANJE ČELO 2049 mnv
Period: maj-septembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero – Krstac
Visinska razlika: IzmeĊu polazne taĉke i vrha je 140 m, ali se to-
kom puta spuštate na visinu od oko 1700 m, dakle: oko 350 m.
68
Lukanje ĉelo (Vidi i prethodnu kartu.)
69
LUKANJE ČELO 2049 m
Season: May-September
Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero – Krstac
Elevation difference: 140 m between the starting point and the
peak, but the ascent of Lukanje ĉelo starts from ~1700 m.
70
TALI – Ruda glava 2020 i Kule 2063 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Podgorica – 2,7 km nakon manastira Moraĉa je
oznaĉeno skretanje za selo Osreci – Ropušnica (3 km asfalt i 9 km
lošeg makadama).
Visinska razlika: oko 660 m
71
TALI – Ruda glava 2020 & Kule 2063 m
Season: May-October
Access: Nikšić – Podgorica – marked turning to the village of Os-
reci (2.7 km after Monastery Moraĉa) – Ropušnica (3 km of asphalt
and 9 km of macadam).
Elevation difference: about 660 m
Route description: Park the car in Ropušnica and walk along the
forest road until you reach a clearing and then follow the marked
trail leading to the saddle between Ruda glava and Kule. You will
climb a rather steep slope, and the ridge of the main peak(s) is, at
places, quite demanding and narrow so take your time. In fact, if
you have any doubts in yourself, stay at Ruda glava and enjoy the
views. (*Do not climb if the grass is wet!)
72
MAGANIK – Petrov vrh / Kurozeb 2124 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Ţupa – Miolje polje – Štitovo – Stanjevića rupa.
Nakon ugodne voţnje kroz Ţupu stiţete do mjesta na kom
se put razdvaja: desno ka Morakovu i lijevo ka rudnicima boksita
(Bioĉki stan, Štitovo). Birate lijevi krak i vozite uzbrdo. Kad se po-
vremeno oštećeni asfaltni put završi, slijedi oko 8 km makadama do
mjesta gdje se put prema Stanjevića rupi odvaja od „glavnog“ puta
za Rekoĉicu. Tu, kao i na prethodnim razdvajanjima, idete lijevo.
Putokaz sa (pogrešno napisanim) imenom katuna se nalazi na drve-
tu. Vozite do sljedeće „raskrsnice“ i produţite još 30 metara desnim
krakom. Parkirajte kod drvene radniĉke kućice.
Visinska razlika: oko 600 m
73
Opis ture: Slijediti put i proći napušteni katun (zidana kuća), a on-
da desno – širokom stazom do obiljeţenog odvajanja za izvor/ubao
Studenac i dvije lokve. Od izvora proći prosjeĉenom stazom do
druge lokve, a od nje lijevo i uzbrdo do raskrsnice šumskih puteva.
Tu nastavljate pravo, prateći „balvanski put“ u pravcu vrha koji
vam sada već sluţi kao dobar orjentir. Na kraju tog puta (nakon
kraće cik-cak dionice) idete lijevo i ulazite u stazu kroz jedan prili-
ĉno lijep predio. Petrov vrh je stalno ispred vas. (Većina skretanja
je sada oznaĉena, ali ipak pronaĊite orjentire za povratak, jer vas
teren na par mjesta moţe odvući na dolje prema Rekoĉici.) Ubrzo
izlazite iz šume i krećete se ţdrijelom prema velikom cirku. Kad
savladate blagu uzbrdicu, neposredno prije ulaza u cirk, na desnoj
strani (odmah iznad puta) se nalazi pećina/jama. Od nje, lijevim
obodom otvora, poĉinjete završni uspon. Za ~ dvadesetak minuta
dolazite na greben sa kog imate sjajan pogled na istoĉni dio Maga-
nika, a onda istim grebenom stiţete i na sam vrh.
74
MAGANIK – Petrov vrh / Kurozeb 2124 m
Season: May-November
Access: Nikšić – Ţupa – Miolje polje – Štitovo – Stanjevića rupa.
After a pleasant drive through Ţupa, you reach the fork:
Morakovo is on the right, and Štitovo (the bauxite mines) is on the
left. Take the left road and drive uphill. The 10 km of deteriorating
asphalt is followed by macadam. Turn left at every junction (3) and
after less than 9 km you will get to the place where the short road to
Stanjevića rupa diverges from the “main” road to Rekoĉica. The
sign with the name of the katun is nailed on a tree (on the left side
of the road), and there is a signpost at the junction (without a sign).
Elevation difference: 600 m
Route description: When you reach the fork, take the right track.
In a few seconds you will see an unusual wooden shed. Park the car
there. Walk along the road and at the first junction turn right. That
trail will take you to the marked place where the path to the well
Studenac branches off. Refresh yourself at the well, walk past the
first of two ponds from the left, proceed uphill, and you will soon
come to the junction of 3 forest “roads”. Go straight ahead, and
follow the track going in the direction of the peak which is already
visible. At the end of that track, after a zigzag section, take the left
turn and enter the path running through the forest (the last picture).
Petrov vrh is constantly in front of you and all important turnings
are now marked but, nevertheless, try to find a couple of orientation
75
points, because on your way back the terrain could easily trick you
and take you downwards to Rekoĉica.
Eventually, you will come out of the forested area and find yourself
on the trail leading to a huge cirque. There is no need to enter the
cirque. Instead, at its very entrance look for the cave (there may be
snow in it) on the right, immediately above the trail. The final part
of the ascent starts from there, along the left edge of the opening. In
about 20 minutes you will climb the ridge which offers a beautiful
view of eastern Maganik. The same ridge will also take you to the
summit.
76
MAGANIK – MeĎeĎi vrh 2139 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: 1. Nikšić – Ţupa – Miolje polje – Štitovo – Mala Rekoĉica
2. Nikšić – Ţupa – Morakovo – Zabran – Mala Rekoĉica
U prvom sluĉaju, uputstva su ista kao i za prethodni vrh,
dok ne doĊete do Stanjevića rupe, a onda odatle produţavate još 3
km do Male Rekoĉice.
U drugom sluĉaju, idete ka Morakovu i dolazite do kraja
sela. Produţavate pravo, preko malog mosta, i kad se asfalt završi
nastavljate dalje, uglavnom preĉicama (ako idete pješke), ili vrlo,
vrlo lošim putem do Rekoĉice (oko 10 km).
Visinska razlika: oko 640 m
77
ide naviše od posljednjih koliba i izmeĊu vrhova vodi do prevoja
Štrbina. Uspon je priliĉno naporan, pa se na prevoju moţete kratko
odmoriti, ali ako nastavite udesno i još malo se popnete (što ionako
treba da uradite), imaćete sjajan pogled na Babine zube. Slijedi mali
pad do poveće vrtaĉe u kojoj uvijek ima snijega. Obilazite je sa li-
jeve strane prema jugoistoku, a onda dalje grebenom prema istoku.
Neposredno prije glavnog vrha, koga prepoznajete po malom be-
tonskom stubu, na lijevoj strani se nalazi još jedna velika vrtaĉa u
kojoj takoĊe moţete naći snijeg.
Babini zubi
Na povratku ne morate ići istim putem – pratite greben dok
ne primijetite puteljak koji se odvaja ulijevo i ide direktno nadolje –
prema Maganiĉkom polju. Kad izaĊete iz šume, na lijevoj strani
(jugoistok) ćete primijetiti policu, odnosno stazu uz stjenoviti „zid“.
Ako ţelite, tuda moţete doći do vrlo neobiĉne bistijerne (rezervoar
za vodu). Inaĉe, ovo je ranije bio uobiĉajeni (kraći, ali teţi i strmiji)
smjer za uspon na MeĊeĊi vrh.
Napomene: Maganik je, u cjelini gledano, bezvodna planina, ali
samo na prostoru MeĊeĊeg vrha postoji nekoliko mjesta (vrtaĉe, ili
jame) u kojima snijega ima tokom cijele godine.
78
MAGANIK – MeĎeĎi vrh 2139 m
Season: May-November
Access: 1. Nikšić – Ţupa – Miolje polje – Štitovo – Mala Rekoĉica
2. Nikšić – Ţupa – Morakovo – Zabran – Mala Rekoĉica
In the first case, the directions are the same as for Kurozeb/
Petrov vrh. However, when you get to Stanjevića rupa - Rekoĉica
junction, continue straight ahead and drive another 3 km to Mala
Rekoĉica.
In the second case, turn right at Štitovo - Morakovo fork.
When the asphalt road ends, follow a bad macadam road for about
10 km. (Not recommended.)
Elevation difference: about 640 m
79
through the forest leading to the cottages in the northern part of the
field. Kokotov vrh (Cock’s peak) is on the left (N) and MeĊeĊi vrh
(Bear’s peak) is in front of you (NE).
The trail starts behind the last huts and ascends the saddle
between the peaks – Štrbina. You can have a short rest there, but it
80
is better to climb a little further to the right and in about 10 min you
will enjoy the extraordinary view of Babini zubi (Grandmother’s
teeth). There is a large depression nearby. Choose the left path
around it. Continue to the south-east and then follow the ridge to
the east. Immediately before the main peak, which is recognized by
a short concrete pillar, there is another large depression in which
you can usually find snow even in September.
On the way back
to Maganiĉko polje you
don’t have to follow the
same route. Walk along
the ridge until you notice
the path running directly
downwards to the katuns
at the foothill. When you
get out of the pine forest,
there is a path (ledge) to
the left – it is the way to
a water reservoir.
This route is still
used by some people as
a way up – it is steeper,
but shorter. I myself hate
it because of the slippery
terrain (mixed grass and
scree). It always seems that the descent takes the same amount of
time as the ascent.
Additional notes: All in all, Maganik is a waterless mountain, but
only in the area of MeĊeĊi vrh there are at least four places (pits,
depressions) in which you can find snow all year round.
81
MAGANIK – RogoĎed 2037 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojovića bare.
Asfaltnim putem se spuštate u Bare i na prvom razdvajanju idete
desno nekih tridesetak metara do potoka. Tu je „parking“ za par
automobila. Ali, ako ste došli terenskim vozilom, ne morate silaziti
u Bare – moţete produţiti još par kilometara lošim makadamom do
Male Lukavice.
Visinska razlika: oko 540 m (iz Bara Bojovića)
82
Varijanta 2: Idete prema jugu (kota 1688) krećući se preko niza tra-
vnatih i kamenitih uvala. Staza ima više, jer se tuda kreću pastiri sa
ovcama. U svakom sluĉaju, vaš cilj je šumovito-stjenoviti teren i
prevoj (koji ne penjete) desno od RogoĊeda. Kad priĊete dovoljno
blizu viĊećete „lijevak“ i par mogućnosti za završni uspon. (Slika
ispod.) Glavni vrh je drugi od prevoja i relativno lako se penje –
naroĉito tokom maja i poĉetkom juna kad ima dosta snijega.
Napomena: Prva varijanta zvuĉi opasno, ali nije baš tako. Potrebno
je samo posmatrati teren i pamtiti izvjesna mjesta zbog povratka.
TakoĊe moţete razmisliti i o kruţnoj turi: do vrha doći jednom, a
vratiti se drugom varijantom.
83
MAGANIK – RogoĎed 2037 m
Season: May-November
Access: Nikšić – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojovića bare. Follow the
asphalt road down to Bojovića bare and at the first junction turn
right (the short gravel road, about 30 m). Park the car at the stream
bank. If you have an all-terrain vehicle, do not go down to Bojovića
bare but continue to Mala Lukavica. (See the map.)
Elevation difference: about 540 m (from Bojovića bare)
Route description: Cross the stream and head uphill to the east.
Pass the katun on the left and enter a well-established trail. Stay on
it until you reach a large stone and the source underneath it. Cross
the stream which comes from the left and follow the road through
Mala Lukavica. In a few minutes, you will get to the macadam road
again (S). Cross it and go past three (or four) new wooden cottages
and a few unusual watchtowers. At the pass, you have two options:
Option 1: Head for the elevation point 1756 (SE) and proceed to the
left side of the mountain ahead.
The trail is now hardly visible,
but the terrain itself “draws you
in” and brings to a small cirque,
east from the main peak. In order
to enter it, climb the short grassy
section bordered by stone walls,
go through the passageway on
the left, and walk over rugged
terrain (lots of holes and pits)
towards the crag in front of you.
Finally, turn right and climb the
scree (talus) slope leading to the
grassy ridge and the summit itself.
Option 2: Head south (the elevation point 1688). There is a number
of trails, and they all switchback over the (grassy/rocky) area. The
orientation point is the pass on the right from RogoĊed, but there is
no need to go all the way and climb it. When you get close enough,
84
you will see the natural passage on the left and a way or two to the
top. The main peak is the second from the pass. The ascent is a bit
steep, but interesting. This tour is recommended in May when there
is plenty of snow.
Additional notes: The first option may seem difficult, but it is not
so. If you wish, you can use one way to get to the top and the other
to go down from it. (The map: RogoĊed and Boţurni vrh 1 & 2)
85
MAGANIK – Boţurni vrh 1923 mnv
Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Isti kao i za RogoĊed.
Visinska razlika: oko 420 m
Opis ture:
Varijanta 1: Prvi dio rute je isti kao i za RogoĊed, ali kad proĊete
prevoj idete lijevo i ulazite u dugu travnatu jarugu koja će vas od-
vesti iza stjenovitog Tićjaka (1814 m) i dalje prema vrhu – donja
fotografija. Krećete se postepeno naviše, put jugoistoka, prateći
planinu kako bi izbjegli mnogobrojne vrtaĉe na desnoj strani.
86
Varijanta 2: Preko Male Lukavice putem dolazite do crkve, a zatim
i izvora Babino sicalo. Nastavite još, otprilike, par stotina metara i
na desnoj strani ćete viĊeti kuću sa drvenim krovom koji se jedva
drţi (prva slika).
Odmah iza nje,
u desno, poĉinje
još vidljiva staza
koja obillazi Ti-
ćjak s lijeve str-
ane, vodi ţdrije-
lom do prevoja i
tu se ukljuĉuje u
„stazu“ iz varijante 1. (* Rano ujutro, kad ima slane, ili dosta rose,
stijene u gornjem dijelu ţdrijela su vrlo klizave.)
Napomena: Postoji i treća mogućnost: od dola ispod puta za Velje
Duboko. (Vidi i malu
fotografiju u opisu na
engleskom jez.) Ne-
ma potrebe da idete
putem i silazite u do
– moţete koristiti pri-
stupnu stazu koja ide
od već pominjane po-
lusrušene kuće, pod-
noţjem planine i ula-
zi u usjek. Uspon je
vrlo jak, oko 350 m u
visinu, ali penjete se
kroz izuzetno zanim-
ljiv prirodni kanal, t.j.
„sulundar“ i izlazite taĉno ispod vrha, sa desne strane.
Ipak, doţivljaj će biti najpotpuniji ako uspon odradite vari-
jantom 1, ili 2, a silazak varijantom 3.
Pogled sa vrha je... neobiĉan. Dobijate potpuno nov uvid u
okolni teren, naravno, ukoliko ga već poznajete.
87
MAGANIK – Boţurni vrh 1923 m
Season: May-November
Access: The same as for RogoĊed.
Elevation difference: 420 m
Route description: If you do not mind walking over difficult ter-
rain and also enjoy looking for your own tracks, this is the tour for
you. This is a rough little mountain and the views are excellent.
Option1: The first part of the route is the same as for RogoĊed but,
after the pass, look for the longish and shallow grassy ravine on the
left. It will take you behind Tićjak (1814 m). Now head south-east,
gradually gaining height, and always follow the line of the mount-
ain. In that way you will avoid the numerous depressions and pits
on the right. The trail is hardly visible, but there are several “road
signs” in the form of small cairns.
Option 2: Start from the parking (Bare Bojovića) and go all the way
through Mala Lukavica. Follow the gravel road until you see the
ruined house on the right (the roof has not collapsed yet). There is a
visible path behind it (through the gully). This path goes around
Tićjak from the left side (SE), runs through the gorge (W), climbs
the pass, and eventually joins the route from option 1.
Additional note: There is
another option: the ascent
starts above the valley on
the right side of the road to
Velje Duboko. (See the 2nd
picture on page 87.) Once
you set off for the summit,
there is a relentless, ~ 350
m high steep slope waiting
for you. But, you will also
go through an interesting
natural passage / “channel”,
and reach the peak from its
right, grassy side.
88
SINJAJEVINA – Korman 1923 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: 1. Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Ţabljak – NjegovuĊa –
Zmijniĉko jezero. Gole vrhove Kormana vidite na lijevoj strani,
ĉim uĊete u „centar“ NjegovuĊe.
2. Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Provalija/Bukovica –
Banske kuće – Vraţje jezero – NjegovuĊa – Zmijniĉko jezero.
Korman je sada desno od NjegovuĊe.
Visinska razlika: oko 600 m (od jezera), ili 400 m sa Pašinog polja
89
mskim putem (lijevo). Ukoliko ubrzo ne primijetite preĉicu (takoĊe
na lijevoj strani, preko male livade – skretanje oznaĉeno), slijedite
put dok ne doĊete do treće „oštre“ krivine ulijevo. Na tom mjestu,
pored (taĉnije, iza) kamene kupe poĉinje primjetna staza uzbrdo.
Nakon par stotina
metara dolazite na
proplanak sa koga
vidite prvi vrh ko-
ji ne penjete nego
zaobilazite. Odat-
le je moguće poĉ-
eti završni uspon,
ali je, ipak, bolje
da pratite jasnu stazu preko proplanka i dalje kroz šumu. Tako ćete
lako doći do travnatih padina i duge jaruge koja vodi do glavnog
vrha – juţna strana.
Napomena: Teren je šumovit, ali ne i teţak za kretanje, ako pratite
stazu koja je dobro oĉišćena i obiljeţena.
Predio od NjegovuĊe do Zmijniĉkog jezera i dalje ka vrhu
je izuzetno lijep. Na Kormanu i obliţnjoj Kučevici (1783) se nalaze
najbolje i najkrupnije borovnice u ovom dijelu Crne Gore.
90
SINJAJEVINA – Korman 1923 m
Season: May-October
Access: 1. Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Ţabljak – NjegovuĊa –
Zmijniĉko jezero. You will see the barren peaks of Korman on the
left, as soon as you get to NjegovuĊa.
2. Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica* – Provalija/Bukovica –
Banske kuće – NjegovuĊa – Zmijniĉko jezero. Now the peaks are
on the right. *You can also use the old Šavnik - Ţabljak road.
Elevation difference: 400 m from Pašino polje; and 600 m from
the lake (Zmijniĉko jez.)
Route description: The macadam road from Zmijniĉko jezero to
Pašino polje is quite OK, but you can also leave the car at the lake,
or at the end of the asphalt road, and the next 4.5, or 3.7 km will be
a pleasant walk through the coniferous forest. When you get to the
plateau of Pašino polje, you will notice two ruined wooden huts on
the right. Go past them and look for the track branching off to the
left. Follow it until you reach the third curve going sharply to the
left. The trail starts there, from a small pile of stones, and it is partly
marked (arrows carved and painted on the trees). After a couple
hundred meters you will come to the clearing from which the first
peak can be seen. If you decide to make the final ascent from there,
traverse it from the left side. However, it is better to continue along
the good path
going across
the field and
further throu-
gh the forest.
In 10-15 min.
you will find
yourself near
the beginning
of a long ravine leading to the mild grassy slopes of the main peak.
Additional notes: The area from NjegovuĊa to Zmijniĉko jezero is
extraordinary beautiful. Korman and neighbouring Kučevica (1783)
are the places where the best and largest blueberries in this part of
91
Montenegro can be found. The recommended period for climbing
Korman (or Kuĉevica from Ramovo ţdrijelo, before NjegovuĊa) is
August – September.
92
SINJAJEVINA – Babin vrh 2013 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
93
Opis ture: Krenite dalje putem ka Polju Bijelića. Kad doĊete na
prevoj prije polja ugledaćete niz od 4-5 vrhova. Babin vrh je treći s
lijeva. Staza koja je ucrtana na karti je samo jedna od nekoliko
mogućnosti koje teren dopušta. Bitno je samo da se postepeno pe-
njete u pravcu vrha i tako ćete ući u jaku stazu koja će vas dovesti
do Babine lokve – malog jezera izmeĊu susjedne Piramide (1985) i
prvog, nešto niţeg od, zapravo, dva Babina vrha.
94
SINJAJEVINA – Babin vrh 2013 m
Season: May-October
Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Sirovac – Bare – Jeĉišta
The distance from Boan - Ţabljak junction to the unmarked
and sudden turning to Bare is ~7 km, so better be careful not to
miss it. The road to Bare is asphalt, but at the beginning it is rather
steep, narrow, and sporadically damaged. You will reach the sharp
turning to Jeĉišta after 4.8 km; the house with green roof is a good
orientation point. Park the car at a widening at the end of the
asphalt. (See the satellite map on page 93.)
Elevation difference: about 420 m
95
SINJAJEVINA – Veliki Pećarac 2042 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Isti kao i za Babin vrh.
Visinska razlika: oko 400 m (od podnoţja do vrha)
96
Veliki Pećarac
97
SINJAJEVINA – Veliki Pećarac 2042 m
Season: May-October
Access: The same as for Babin vrh.
Elevation difference: ~ 400 m (from the foothills to the summit)
98
SINJAJEVINA – Veliki starac 2022 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Gornja rijeka (Krnja jela) – Lju-
tovac. Od raskrsnice Boan - Ţabljak do iznenadnog skretanja u
lijevo sa glavnog puta u mjestu Krnja jela (Gornja rijeka) je 8,2 km.
(Vidi satelitsku mapu pristupa Babinom vrhu.) Put je asfaltni, uzak
i vrlo strm, 3km. Dalje nastavljate kratko makadamom (0,7 km) i
ostavljate automobil na proširenju sa desne strane puta. Odatle po-
ĉinje pješaĉki dio ture.
Visinska razlika: oko 420 m
Opis ture: Hodati putem dok ne vidite prvu kuću na lijevoj strani, a
zatim se iznad nje uputiti na istok, prema Vali. Moţete pratiti njeno
pruţanje u gornjem dijelu, a onda sami izaberite kuda vam najbolje
odgovara. Staza koja je opisana i ona koja je ucrtana na karti su sa-
mo par od nekoliko mogućih varijanti za ovu turu. U stvari, naj-
vaţnije je da se stalno krećete u pravcu sjeveroistoka i na kraju ćete
doći do najvišeg vrha na kom se nalazi mala „piramida“. (Na slici
ispod oblaka.) Pogled je odliĉan.
Napomena: Kad ste već tu, popnite i druga dva, samo 1m niţa, ali
ipak, ljepša vrha Velikog starca. Manja fotografija na strani 101.
99
SINJAJEVINA – Veliki starac 2022 m
Season: May-October
100
Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Krnja jela (Gornja rijeka) – Lju-
tovac. The distance from Boan - Ţabljak junction to the unmarked
and sudden turning to the left in Krnja jela or, more precisely, Go-
rnja Rijeka is 8.2 km. (See the satellite map showing the access to
Babin vrh.) The road to Ljutovac is asphalt, but narrow and rather
steep – 3 km. The final 0.7 km to the parking place (on the right
side of the road) is macadam.
Elevation difference: about 420 m
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Kao i za V. Starac, stim što od Ljutovca do katuna Jeĉmen
do nastavljate popravljanim, ali, ipak, povremeno lošim putem
prema istoku. (~ 9 km)
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m
102
SINJAJEVINA – Jablanov vrh 2203 m
Season: May-October
Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Gornja Rijeka (Krnja Jela) –
Ljutovac – Potrk – Jeĉmen do. The macadam road from Ljutovac to
the katun called Jeĉmen do is sometimes quite rough. (~ 9 km)
Elevation difference: about 500 m
Route description: Park the vehicle in the field near the well/water
reservoir (called Smrdan). Head for the closer, and seemingly the
103
highest, peak of the mountain in front of you. Walk between Ku-
kavica (1860) and Pekova glavica (1872), and finally pass the
elevation point 1913 from the right side. In less than an hour you
should be at the foothill of the mountain. There is a trail running
upwards to the right.
Follow it to the pass-
age (behind the people
in the picture) and then
go north-east towards
the main peak. Or, in
order to make the tour
more interesting, you
can go on all the way
to the beginning of the
ridge (the edge of the
cliff) take a short break
and have a look at the village of (Gornje) Lipovo, and finish the
ascent along the ridge.
If the weather is clear, the views are excellent, particularly
the ones of Gradište and Torna.
Jablanov vrh, Torna and Gradište (in the background) from Veliki Starac, 2021 m,
in November 2015.
104
GRADIŠTE – Vranova glavica 2215 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Isti kao i za Jablanov vrh, ali ne idete do Jeĉmen dola.
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m
105
GRADIŠTE – Vranova glavica 2215 m
Season: May-October
Access: The same as for Jablanov vrh, but you do not drive all the
way to Jeĉmen do.
Elevation difference: about 500 m
Vranova glavica i Gradišta sa Torne / Vranova glavica and Gradišta from Torna
Route description: Park the car near the house with tin roof, ~ 8
km from the end of the asphalt. The photograph above gives you
the “rear” view of the mountain. There is a good path leading in the
direction of the pond at the foothills of Šupljaĉa 2071 (SE; the first
picture in the Montenegrin description). Once you get over the pass
/ridge, leave the path, head south, walk around a large depression,
and continue uphill until the terrain opens. Now go down and then
up towards the scree slope left from the main peak. When you get
close enough, you
will notice the zig-
zag trail to the sad-
dle. (Slippery!)
Finally, turn right
(W) and climb the
mild grassy slopes
of Vranova glavi-
ca. The views are
really fascinating, especially the one of neighbouring Torna.
106
Additional note: The ascent of Vranova glavica can also be made
from the right side of the peak. When you pass the elevation point
1907, turn towards the south-west and locate 3 screes one next to
another. (See the 2nd pic in the Montenegrin description.) Approach
them from the right and join the path running immediately above
them. This might be a better option too, because you avoid the
already mentioned height loss. It is also a bit shorter.
Vranova glavica
107
TORNA / Babin zub 2277 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – prevoj Semolj – Redice (Svrke).
Od raskrsnice Boan - Ţabljak do skretanja (lijevo) za selo Svrke je
24 km, a odatle do parkinga (u stvari, radi se o „raskrsnici“) ima još
oko 6 i po kilometara makadama.
Ili: Podgorica – Mioska – Dragovića polje – Svrke (desno).
Visinska razlika: oko 1100 m
Opis ture: Fotografija pokazuje Tornu (Babin zub) sa pristupnog
puta. Parkirajte na pomenutom proširenju/raskrsnici. Krenite lijevo,
uzbrdo putem i na prvoj krivini u desno viĊećete putokaz „Đedov
do“ na stijeni. Staza poĉinje desno od njega, iza ţbuna/drveta.
108
ţuriti. Zanemarite oznake koje idu desno od vrha – to je zapravo
slijepi put (!?).
109
TORNA / Babin zub 2277 m
Season: May-October
Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Krnja Jela – Semolj – Svrke.
The distance from Boan - Ţabljak junction to the (left)
turning to the village of Svrke is 24 km, and it is followed by ano-
ther 6.5 km of macadam to the parking which is actually a fork.
The other way to approach Torna is: Podgorica – Mioska –
Dragovića polje – Svrke (on the right).
Elevation difference: about 1100 m
110
rocky edge. Unfortunately, the path through the forest (if there ever
was one) is overgrown and cannot be used.
111
In the upper section of the slope the path becomes visible
and eventually enters Đedov do. There you will find a ruined hut
which could still be used as a shelter if necessary. Rest for a little
while and prepare yourself for the second part of the route: the
climb to the (marked) trail from Lipovo which traverses long scree
and leads to the summit. In the final, steep and slippery section of
the ascent concentration and discipline are of the utmost import-
ance. You mustn’t hurry, and do not follow the waymarks which go
right from the peak – it is a dead end. (!?) I am not sure what the
“author’s” intention was.
Additional notes: Torna is surely the hardest of all the tours in this
guide-book. The elevation difference (~1100 m) speaks for itself –
you should be physically and mentally fit. It is not recommended to
inexperienced people or larger (touristic) groups.
If you think that this
tour is too strenuous,
or even dangerous,
you should consider
climbing the 1st peak
from the left. It is 20
meters lower than the
main peak, but it is,
nevertheless, a quite
decent replacement.
Start the ascent from
Đedov do to the left,
and head for the pine
trees in the middle of
the photo. When you pass them from the left, you will soon enter a
ravine leading to the grassy slopes… (See the map.)
112
DURMITOR
113
DURMITOR
In this guide the Durmitor area is divided in two parts: “North” and
“South”. The former includes six peaks: Šljeme, Istočni vrh, Mi-
lošev tok (which all belong to the range of Šljeme), Bandijerna, Ša-
reni pasovi and Prutaš. Bobotov kuk and Veliki MeĊed, as the two
best known and (besides Savin kuk) most frequently climbed peaks
with their well-established and marked trails, are merely “touched”
with a couple of sentences.
Durmitor “South” is represented by the following peaks:
Ranisava, Sedlena greda, and Lojanik.
Bobotov kuk 2523m
Most people usually start this tour from the pass called Sedlo. The
trail leads to the unnamed pass left from Uvita greda (2199), goes
around Zupci (2309) and descends to Zeleni vir – the beginning of a
long climb to the rocky peak. However, I think that the trail from
Urdeni do (see the description of Šareni pasovi) is a better option.
Veliki Međed 2287m
Walk around Crno jezero to the left and follow the marked trail
heading south. At the junction behind the spring Toĉak go right.
From the pass known as Struga (1920) the ascent becomes rather
steep so be careful. Access the main peak along the ridge to the left.
114
DURMITOR „Sjever“ – Šljeme 2455 mnv
Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik –
Grabovica – Virak (put za
Trsa i Pluţine) – Stoţina.
Ili: Ţabljak – Virak
– Stoţina. Parking je sa li-
jeve strane puta par stotina
metara prije Stoţine.
Visinska razlika: oko 800 m (varijanta 1)
115
Opis ture: Zaobilazite brdo Vinjeve glavice (1758) postepeno do-
bijajući na visini, izlazite na prevoj i krećete preko, prvo travnatog,
pa kamenitog terena ka podnoţju srednjeg, najmanjeg od 3 grebena
koja vidite. Penjete greben sa desne strane i ulazite u jasnu stazu
koju kasnije, u posljednjem dijelu ture, napuštate jer ona ide dalje
ravno preko „strane“, a vi nastavljate uzbrdo prema sjeverozapadu i
glavnom vrhu. Nakon odmora moţete preći na deset metara niţi
Istočni vrh (2445), spuštiti se prema Mlijeĉnom, a onda i Mekom
dolu i tako se vratiti na „poĉetni poloţaj“.
116
DURMITOR “North” – Šljeme 2454 m
Season: May-October
Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Virak (The road to Trsa and
Pluţine.) – Stoţina
Or: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina. The parking place is on the
left side of the road, a few hundred meters before Stoţina.
Elevation difference: about 800 m (option 1)
Route description: Cross the road and walk around Vinjeve glav-
ice (the hills on the right). After the pass, the terrain opens and you
will see 3 huge ridges. Head for the one in the middle over grassy
meadows of Meki do. Begin the ascent of the ridge from its right
side and enter the conspicuous path coming from the neighbouring
ridge. When it starts traversing the slope to the west, leave it and
continue uphill (NW) towards the main peak of Šljeme. On the way
down you can visit Istočni vrh (East peak, 2445), descend to Mli-
jeĉni do, and eventually join the original trail (S).
The other, shorter ascent route starts from the restaurant (?)
above Valovito jezero. Once you go through Lomno ţdrijelo and
enter the cirque of Veliki Lomni do, you will have two options, but
my advice is to go left, climb the ridge, and use it as a direct way to
117
the main peak. In order to make this tour even more attractive you
could do the following: when you reach the point where the two
ridges meet, do not continue uphill but go towards the west, in the
direction of Milošev tok (2426), a fine peak which offers a good
view of western Durmitor. Then return to Miloševa lokva (Miloš’s
pond) and just follow the ridge leading to a deep depression below
Šljeme. There is always snow in it. (See the previous picture.)
118
DURMITOR „Jug“ – Ranisava 2084 mnv
Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Virak – Stoţina
Ili: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina. Parking je na lijevoj strani
puta, kao i za Šljeme 1.
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m
Opis ture: Spuštate se prema Suvoj lokvi koja je od sredine jula
(zavisno od godine) obiĉno zaista takva. Njenom obalom stiţete do
jasne staze koja ide preko travnatog prevoja MeĊugorje. Kad zavr-
šite uspon napuštate stazu i krećete prema zapadu i velikom „lomu“
ispod tzv. „Sulundara“. Prelazite ga i polako se zatravljenim sipar-
om ukoso penjete ka stijenama lijevo, nalazite prolaz i idete desno
do sljedećeg prolaza. Zatim nailazite na dva kratka, ali nezgodna
travnata dijela i nastavljate dalje priliĉno strmom i uskom padinom.
(Trava i sipar!) Na kraju, do
cilja imate još oko par stoti-
na metara u pravcu Sedlene
grede, dominantnog vrha na
zapadu, 2227 m. Sa vrha se
vraćate istim putem, a zatim
od Suve lokve idete ponovo
u pravcu Sedlene grede i na-
kon 10-15 minuta stiţete do
Modrog jezera. Naravno, tu
moţete odmoriti i ruĉati, ili
samo uţivati u prizoru.
Napomena: Pri silasku biti paţljiv i nikuda ne ţuriti. Staza koja je
opisana je i jedina (sa sjeveroistoĉne strane planine) koja relativno
bezbjedno vodi do glavnog vrha. Bilo bi dobro imati šlem na glavi.
Druga varijanta za uspon je moguća sa jugoistoka (kota
1938), ali mi se ĉini da tuda samo divokoze prolaze. Naime, iznad
pominjanog Sulundara se (sa juţne strane) nalazi neobezbijeĊeni
stjenoviti zid kojim se moţe doći do grebena glavnog vrha.
* Karta je iza opisa za Sedlenu gredu.
119
DURMITOR “South” – Ranisava 2084 m
Season: June-October
Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Virak – Stoţina
Or: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina
120
Additional notes: While descending be careful and do not hurry.
The described route is also the only one which (safely) leads to the
summit from the north-east face of the mountain.
121
DURMITOR „Jug“ – Sedlena greda 2227 mnv
Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Virak – Sedlo
Ili: Ţabljak – Virak – Sedlo
Visinska razlika: oko 320 m
122
DURMITOR “South” – Sedlena greda 2227 m
Season: June-October
Access: Nikšić – Virak – Sedlo. Or: Ţabljak – Virak – Sedlo.
Elevation difference: about 320 m
123
Additional notes: Sedlena greda is a very attractive mountain and
the views are extraordinary, but it is not recommended to people
who are afraid of height or walking over steep terrain. Some people
can also be intimidated by numerous bumble-bees which are often
found at the more dangerous, final part of the ascent. However, they
will not bother you if you just let them do their job. And finally,
during a dry spell the grass can be very slippery.
124
DURMITOR „Sjever“ – Bandijerna 2409 mnv
Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Virak – Stoţina – Sedlo
Ili: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina – Sedlo
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m
Opis ture: Osta-
vljate automobil
na prevoju Sedlo
(1908) i krećete
na sjever prema
prolazu lijevo od
vrha Uvita greda
(2199) – stazom
koja takoĊe vodi
i do Bobotovog
kuka. Dio puta iza sipara je malo opasniji pa je potrebno biti paţljiv
i ne ţuriti. Nakon prolaza ćete na desnoj strani primijetiti vertikalne
litice vrha Milošev tok i Bandijernu u njegovom produţetku. Oba
vrha su dio opisanog lanca Šljeme. (Na slici u opisu na engleskom
jeziku Bandijerna je u sredini i izgleda mnogo niţa.)
Slijedite bilo koji od 2 kraka staze sve dok ne siĊete u Suve ta-
vane (na karti to je prije Surutke), a onda siparom ukosite u pravcu
Trojnog prevoja, travnatog prelaza izmeĊu Bandijerne i niza oštrih
stjenovitih vrhova (Zupci, 2309). Na prevoju idete desno, ulazite u
125
„stazu“ i poĉinjete završni uspon do vrha. (Trava i sipar!)
Napomena: Ako ţelite da produţite turu, ili izbjegnete onaj eks-
ponirani dio pored Uvite grede, na karti vidite još jednu varijantu
puta do Bandijerne (ili ĉak do Bobotovog kuka). Umjesto na sjever,
moţete se uputiti prema prolazu izmeĊu Vjetrenih brda, zatim pra-
titi pruţanje planine prema istoku, preći stazu za Bobotov kuk, izaći
na Trojni prevoj i paţljivo odraditi ostatak uspona.
Na karti je takoĊe ucrtan i jedan, vjerovatno najkraći pravac
uspona na Minin bogaz (2387).
126
DURMITOR “North” – Bandijerna 2409 m
Season: June-October
Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Virak – Stoţina – Sedlo
Or: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina – Sedlo
Elevation difference: about 500 m
Route description: Park the car at Sedlo (1908 m) and head north
towards the pass left from Uvita greda (2199). This is also one of
the routes to Bobotov kuk. The section after scree is exposed and
requires increased concentration. After the pass the trail levels and
you will immediately notice the magnificent vertical cliffs of Mi-
lošev tok and Bandijerna ahead. (In the picture above the latter is in
the middle and seems much lower.) Follow either of the tracks,
because they both descend to Suvi tavani. (On the map: the flatter
terrain before Surutka.) Now leave the trail and diagonally climb
the scree slope in the direction of Trojni prevoj, the grassy pass
between Bandijerna and a string of pointed rocky peaks (Zupci,
2309). When you get there, the peak is on the right. *Climb with
caution: mixed scree and grass!
Additional note: In order to avoid the exposed section left from
Uvita greda, you can walk towards the pass which divides Vjetrena
brda, head east (follow the line of the mountain), cross the trail to
Bobotov kuk, climb Trojni prevoj, and finish the ascent.
127
DURMITOR „Sjever“ – Šareni pasovi 2248 mnv
Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Virak – Sedlo – znak: Škrĉka jezera/Kamp Škrka
Ili: Ţabljak – Sedlo – znak: Škrĉka jez./Kamp Škrka
Visinska razlika: oko 520 m
128
na ĉijim krajevima se nalaze dva vrha. Moţete prvo izaći na Štit
(2236), a onda se grebenom uputiti ka glavnom vrhu i uţivati u po-
gledu na Škrĉko jezero i Prutaš (2393), ili obratno. Ova druga vari-
janta je moţda i bolja, jer je desni vrh vrlo nezgodan. Moguće ga je
popeti, ako se zaobiĊe sa desne strane, ali to je zaista nepotrebna
avantura.
Napomena: Na prvoj slici Štit je lijevo, a desno (u daljini) je Đevo-
jka (Soa) koja se nalazi ispred Bobotovog kuka. Kao što je već po-
menuto, opisana ruta (do odvajanja) je zapravo put do ovog drugog
vrha. Ako ništa drugo, ova varijanta je kraća od one sa Sedla.
129
DURMITOR “North” – Šareni pasovi 2248 m
Season: June-October
Access: NK – Virak – Sedlo – the sign: Škrĉka jezera/Kamp Škrka
Or: Ţabljak – Sedlo – the sign: Škrĉka jez./Kamp Škrka
Elevation difference: about 520 m
Route description: Park at a widening. Follow the waymarks on
the right (N). * The trail goes around Urdeni do and on to the pass
between Šareni pasovi (left) and Vjetrena brda (right). After climb-
ing the pass, follow the same path until you see the unusual curvy
patterns above the scree
slope on the left. Now
head for the edge of the
slope and after a short
scramble you will reach
the passage leading to
the (steep) grassy slope
and 2 peaks at its ends.
You will probably be inclined to visit the lower one (Štit, 2236)
first and then walk along the ridge towards the other, but this might
not be a good idea, because attempting to climb the main peak is a
risky undertaking. The view of Škrka & the lake is wonderful even
from the ridge.
130
DURMITOR „Jug“ – Lojanik 2091 mnv
131
DURMITOR “South” – Lojanik 2091 m
Season: June-October
Access: Nikšić – Sedlo – Vodeni do. Or: Ţabljak – Vodeni do.
Elevation difference: about 300 m
Route description: Drive along the road towards the further end of
Mt Lojanik (See the picture above.) and leave the car in the widen-
ing on the left side of the road, immediately after the sharp curve to
the right, about 300 meters before Vodeni do. As you come closer
to the parking place you will notice the narrow grassy passage
between two rocky hills covered with dwarf pines.
That is the
beginning of the
only real ascent
in this little tour.
Follow a visible
path to the ridge.
There used to be
a small cairn at
its top. (I do not
know what the
constructor’s original intention was, but you may still find it useful
on your way back, because it “shows” the place where the trail goes
down to the starting point.) When you climb the ridge, continue to-
wards the main peak over rugged terrain. The trail is unmarked, or
to be honest, almost non-existent. However, a couple of years ago it
132
was cleared from half-burnt branches and also cut through the pine
wood in its final, easier section.
On your way to
the summit you
will see two mo-
re cairns: one at
the top of a peak
in the middle of
the mountain (?),
and the other in
the large dwarf-
pine area before
crossing over to the main peak. This last cairn is also the only one
which has a real purpose – when you find yourself standing in front
of an impenetrable “green wall”, do not give up, just follow its edge
to the left and in a minute or two you will come across the pile of
stones showing the way through.
133
DURMITOR „Sjever“ – Prutaš 2393 mnv
Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: a) Nikšić – Virak – Sedlo – Vodeni do; b) Nikšić – Pluţine
– Trsa – Todorov do, ili Vodeni do; c) Ţabljak – Sedlo – Vodeni do
Visinska razlika: oko 540 m
134
DURMITOR “North” – Prutaš 2393 m
Season: June-October
Access: a) Nikšić – Virak – Sedlo – Vodeni do; b) Nikšić – Pluţine
– Trsa – Todorov do, or Vodeni do
Or: Ţabljak – Sedlo – Vodeni do
Elevation difference: about 540 m
135
Prutaš from the west / Prutaš sa zapada
136
PIVSKA PLANINA – Ruţica 2141 mnv
Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Virak – Sedlo – Prijespa
Ili: Ţabljak – Sedlo – Prijespa. ProĊite Lojanik i Vodeni do
i doĊite do mjesta gdje se odvaja put za katun Boban i Buruĉkovac.
Visinska razlika: oko 400 m
137
PIVSKA PLANINA* – Ruţica 2141 m
Route description: Park the car at the junction (the diversion to the
katun Boban and Buruĉkovac). Head for the scree slope on the right
and then enter Zagulj, the wide passage (cirque) between Šupljika
(2063) and Bijeli kom (2034). The trails are still visible. Choose the
upper one. Once you get to the passage, you will have at least two
options, but it is
(definitely) better
to keep closer to
the rough mass of
rock on the right.
The summit will
be in front of you
all the time even
though you don’t
see it. The photo
on the next page shows a large part of the mountain. It was taken
from the south – Bijeli kom (2034).
138
Immediately before the peak the trail drops a bit, and then comes
the final part of the ascent along the grassy section of the slope.
139
TRESKAVAC – Buručkovac 2094 mnv
140
jugu – ka izvoru i lokvi ispred katuna Boban. Ipak, bilo bi dobro da
se dovezete do lokve, jer većini ljudi ta dodatna 2 km na povratku
teţe padnu nego, na primjer, cijeli put do Treskavca (oko 5-6 km).
141
TRESKAVAC – Buručkovac 2094 m
Season: June-October
Access: The same as for Ruţica.
Elevation difference: about 400 m
142
DODATAK: Izvor Morače, Vragodo
(1: 50 00)
U Dragovića polju skrećete desno (Iz Podgorice: lijevo!),
pa preko mosta putem koji je asfaltni, ali uzak i u poĉetku sa vrlo
velikim usponom. Nakon nekoliko kilometara ovaj put prelazi u loš
(ali srećom ne toliko dug) makadam. Kad uĊete u zaselak Telaĉ do
prolazite školu (velika zgrada na lijevoj strani puta) i vozite obalom
Moraĉe. Automobil moţete parkirati kod drvenog mosta.
Visinska razlika: oko 600 m
Opis ture: Staza poĉinje od mosta i vodi vas ulijevo, malo dalje od
rijeke, ali paralelno sa njom. Ubrzo dolazite do sipara koji prelazite
143
i ulazite u jaku stazu kojom se dalje krećete kroz šumu. Neka vas ne
brine što više ne vidite i ne ĉujete rijeku, samo nastavite uzbrdo.
Kad je ponovo ĉujete znaćete da ste blizu ulaza u Vragodo. Izlazite
iz šume i obavezno pravite kratak odmor pored malog i izuzetno
lijepog sezonskog jezera. Zatim produţavate dalje (JZ-Z). Kako se
primiĉete starom katunu na brijegu, huk vodopada na lijevoj strani
postaje sve jaĉi...
144
APPENDIX: The source of the river Morača, Vragodo
Route description: The trail will take you to the left, a little off the
river, but parallel with it. Cross the talus slope and enter the trail
going uphill through the forest. You will not see or hear the river
for a while, but when you do hear it again, you will know that you
are getting closer to Vragodo (Devil’s valley). You can rest at the
shore of a small seasonal lake and then proceed towards the west.
There is a katun on the hill and from there you will be able to see
and hear a beautiful waterfall coming out of the cliff – your final
destination for the day.
The scenery and atmosphere are, as they say, unreal.
145
Fotografije: Ruţica Stanković
Option 2:
If you own a good all-terrain vehicle, you can also reach Vragodo
by driving through Krnovo polje (see the description of Gackove
grede) and, instead of turning to Štirni do (Trpezarija, pg 29/31),
proceed all the way to Ivan-begov katun at the foothils of Krutaš –
the end of the road, 13 km. There is a trail going over the mountain
range Trpezarija - Kapa moraĉka (NW, left from the katun) and
than leading down to Vragodo (E-SE, ~ 4.5 km).
146
Bilješka o autoru
147
SADRŢAJ / CONTENTS:
148
Babin vrh ...... 93, 95
Veliki Pećarac ...... 96, 98
V. Starac ...... 99, 100
Jablanov vrh ...... 102, 103
Gradište
Vranova glavica ...... 105, 106
Torna / Babin zub ...... 108, 110
Durmitor „Sjever“
Šljeme ...... 115, 117
Bandijerna ...... 125, 127
Šareni pasovi ...... 128, 130
Prutaš ...... 134, 135
Durmitor „Jug“
Ranisava ...... 119, 120
Sedlena greda ...... 122, 123
Lojanik ...... 131, 132
Pivska planina
Ruţica ...... 137, 138
Treskavac
Buruĉkovac ...... 140, 142
Dodatak: / Appendix:
Izvor Morače, Vragodo ...... 143, 145
149
150