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presents...

PROJECTS
INFLUENCED BY
INTERNATIONAL
TRADITIONS

2 3
PROJECTS
INFLUENCED BY
INTERNATIONAL
TRADITIONS
Embroidery traditions are prevalent throughout the world, from Morocco to
the U.K., and each country has its own style. Learn about different embroidery
traditions from three countries that you can incorporate into your projects.
Included in this e-book are three projects from the 2008 regular column
“International Inspirations.” Learn about traditional British embroidery techniques
and make a bonnet in “United Kingdom”; discover Moroccan garment trends
and make a jellaba in “Moroccan Memories”; and learn traditional Mexican
embroidery styles and make an adorable blouse in “Mexican Marvels.”
You’re sure to find plenty of inspiration from these three overseas projects.
Happy stitching!
Colleen Exline
Associate Editor, CME

Colleen Exline
Associate Editor, CME

TABLE OF CONTENTS
 “International Inspirations: United Kingdom”
Rebecca Kemp Brent.................................... PAGE 3

2 “International Inspirations: Moroccan Memories”


Rebecca Kemp Brent.....................................PAGE 7

3 “Material World: Mexican Marvels”


Rebecca Kemp Brent.................................... PAGE 11
international inspirations

United
Kingdom The word "embroidery" is derived from an Anglo-Saxon expression, so it
By Rebecca Kemp Brent

stands to reason that the British Isles have a rich needlework history. In
this installment of our series, we'll look at a part of that heritage, and find
inspiration in the lovely tone-on-tone textures of whitework embroidery .

British Influence
The British Isles is a confederation of countries and work called Mountmellick embroidery, Ayrshire work is
autonomous possessions, each with unique folk art tradi- delicate, working with fine threads on sheer or lightweight
tions; Celtic knotwork from Ireland and Wales and tartan fabrics. The designs are often floral, and the early stitch-
plaids from Scotland are examples. In addition, modern ers were consequently called "flowerers." A third type of
Britain retains influences from its imperial past, when the whitework embroidery, Broderie Anglaise, comprising of
colonies inspired European fashion and England, in turn, eyelets and cutwork, is sometimes seen alongside Ayrshire
affected the native textile industries of its possessions. floral motifs.
The earliest surviving British textiles date to the early Early in the 19th century, Lady Mary Montgomerie
10th century. Like many early embroideries, they were showed her son's christening robe to Mrs. Jamieson, the
ecclesiastical vestments. England developed a reputation wife of a cotton agent in the Scottish city of Ayr. The
for fine embroidery with woolen thread from the Bayeux embroidered garment combined Scottish floral whitework
Tapestry (more accurately called an embroidery) to the with needle lace filling stitches more common in France.
crewel embroidery style popular from the Renaissance to Mrs. Jamieson, in turn, began a very successful business
today. Fine embroidery with silks and metal threads were employing farmers' well-trained wives and daughters to
so closely associated with England in medieval times, the create the intricate embroideries. Each woman specialized
style was called "Opus Anglicum" (English work). in a particular stitch, so an individual piece was usually
worked by several flowerers.
The Ayrshire embroidery industry provided an impor-
Ayrshire Embroidery tant supplemental income for the stitchers. However, the
The embroidery style identified with Ayrshire in Scotland industry began its decline by the mid-19th century, and
is a form of whitework. As the name implies, whitework is was further weakened by blockades during the American
traditionally stitched with white threads on a white back- Civil War. By the end of the 19th century, there were still a
ground. Unlike the very dimensional, heavy Irish white- few older women producing whitework embroidery, but

3 Creative Machine Embroidery


to reproduce the appearance of fine net
overlays without adding appliqués.
 Select small motifs both for authenticity
and attractive appearance on the light-

?
weight fabrics of Ayrshire work. Motifs
that combine to create continuous bor-
ders are ideal for creating Ayrshire and
Broderie Anglaise yardage to use as an
insertion or border detail on garments.
Use a hoop made for continuous
Did You Know? designs, where available, to simplify the
embroidery process.
 To create allover designs, stitch a single
The decorative pattern we
identify as "paisley" did originate in small motif across the entire fabric sur-
India. However, the Scottish name memorial- face. It's helpful to begin by drawing a
izes the town where textile mills adapted India's grid and marking the locations of indi-
vidual motifs. Mirror image some
teardrop motifs for mass production, greatly
embroideries for greater variety in
reducing the cost of popular paisley shawls. allover designs.

the designs had become simpler and remains in the finished project. In con- Baby Bonnet
coarser. The remuneration was too small junction with the spray starch, a single The featured delicate baby bonnet repli-
to attract young women to the profession, layer of soluble stabilizer is sufficient cates an Ayrshire bonnet from the 19th
and with the advent of embroidery for the fine motifs associated with century. The modern version incorporates
machines, the Ayrshire needlework indus- Ayrshire whitework. ribbon ties, while the historic original
try became a thing of the past.  Threads of 60-, 80- or 100-wt. cotton would’ve been placed on the baby's head
work well for Ayrshire machine embroi- without ties.
Fabric, Stabilizer dery. Some of these threads are made Choose fine white thread and lightweight
& Thread for sewing, but they’re fine to use for white fabric for an authentic appearance.

embroidery as well. Consult the digitiz- The finished bonnet can be bleached to
Traditional Ayrshire embroidery is
er's directions for specific recommen- remove stains, allowing an heirloom to be
stitched on cotton muslin or lawn with
dations for a particular design. Another passed through family generations.
fine cotton thread. To duplicate the
option available to modern machine
look, choose a finely woven, soft cotton
embroiderers is polyester thread with a
muslin or batiste. Organdy can be used
matte finish, which mimics the appear- Supplies
as sheer background material for an  Baby bonnet pattern of your choice
ance of cotton. This polyester thread
even more ephemeral appearance.  1 yard of cotton batiste
produces little or no lint, making it a
Sometimes bits of netted lace are incor-  11⁄2 yards of 1"- to 11⁄2"-wide ribbon
gentler option for embroidery
porated into Ayrshire projects; use cot-  Mesh water-soluble stabilizer
machines.
ton netting as the background for those  Cotton or matte-finish polyester heirloom
designs. Note: The sample baby bonnet is stitched
sewing thread (60- or 80-wt.)
 Prewash cotton fabrics in warm water to
with fine cotton thread, while the lavender
 Removable marker
and cream-on-white samples are embroi-
remove finishing chemicals and resolve  Seam sealant
dered with polyester wrapped polyester
shrinkage before embroidery. Press the  Spray starch
core thread.
laundered fabric to remove wrinkles;  Embroidery designs of your choice.
press again with spray starch. Repeat Note: The sample was created with
for several light coats of spray starch, Design Selection Cactus Punch, SIG64. Cutting and
pressing the fabric dry between coats to  To mimic the flowerers' embroidery, sewing instructions are included on the
give the fabric a firm, crisp texture. choose floral motifs stitched with narrow CD with the embroidery designs.
 Choose a water- or heat-soluble stabiliz- satin stitches, running stitches and light
er for Ayrshire work so no stabilizer fill stitching. Openwork fills can be used

5 Creative Machine Embroidery


Construction


Print or stitch templates of each design.
Following the pattern instructions, cut
the bonnet pieces from prewashed and
More Ideas
• Another traditional use of Ayrshire embroidery was flounces on
starched cotton batiste. dresses and bonnets. Embroider long fabric strips with a continuous
 Using a removable marker, mark the embroidery hoop, hem one edge, and gather the strips for use on
embroidery locations as desired. apparel items or home décor.
 Stabilize and embroider each bonnet
piece.
o Use a continuous hoop, if available, to
create an allover design on the bonnet
brim.
o Hoop mesh water-soluble stabilizer,
spray with temporary adhesive and
adhere the first pattern piece. Pin out-
side the embroidery area for extra secu-
rity if necessary.
 Use the machine's controls to position
the needle where the small motif will
embroider at the marked location. • Although Ayrshire work is traditionally all white, experiment with stitching
Embroider the design. other tone-on-tone combinations. The palette doesn’t need to be limit-
 Keeping the fabric in the hoop and ed to pastels either—try deep jewel tones or dark embroidery colors.
the hoop on the machine, use the
machine’s controls to move the
needle to the next marked location;
embroider the next design.
 Repeat to stitch as many individual
motifs as possible before re-hooping.
 The circle forming the bonnet back is
embroidered on stabilized batiste in a
5" x 7" or larger hoop.
 When the embroidery is complete, rinse
and soak each bonnet piece in water • Look for embroidery designs incorporating small stitched rings; these
with no soap or detergent to remove the are often similar to the eyelets of Broderie Anglaise. When the
stabilizer and markings. Squeeze to embroidery is complete, use an awl or small punch to open a hole
remove excess moisture and smooth inside each stitched ring.
onto a flat surface to dry.
 Press each embroidered piece carefully
 Assemble the bonnet as directed in the Bonnet designs: Cactus Punch, #SIG64, designs 6412,
from the wrong side, using one light 6413, 6414, 6415
coat of spray starch. Trim the pieces pattern. Cut the ribbon in half, and
attach one ribbon piece to each bonnet Lavender sample design: My Fair Lady Designs,
using the original pattern pieces. Cinderella Companions 4x4, design Mfl-Cb2Companions-
 Before trimming around the circular
side at the chin.  8-4x4; scalloped edging added with Brother Innovis
4000D version 4.01 built-in patterns
motif, run a thin line of seam sealant
Rebecca Kemp Brent is a freelance author, educator and White/cream sample design: Brother, Card #23, design 95
around the outer stitches on the
embroidery wrong side. When the designer who enjoys travel and exploring the rich visual Credit
sealant is dry, trim as close to the heritage of societies around the globe. She’s a regular Coats & Clark provided the Dual Duty XP Fine polyester
embroidery as possible. The sealant will contributor to Creative Machine Embroidery and the thread.
prevent raveling and keep the stitches author of two books from Krause Publications.
intact at the bonnet edge.

Creative Machine Embroidery 6


Moroccan
International inspirations

Memories
By Rebecca Kemp Brent

In each installment of this series we’ll examine a


traditional garment or embellishment technique,
and develop ideas for transferring its essence to
21st-century clothing or home décor.

I n the United States, clothing choices are a


matter of fashion and trend. We choose
colors and styles based on designer whims
women may exchange their jellabas for
kaftans, a garment name that has entered
common English usage. Note: Like other
and cultural icons, often movie costumes words that originate in non-English lan-
or music stars' apparel. guages, jellaba may be transliterated many
But the traditional garments of other ways. Alternate spellings include: djellaba,
countries, those with rich, lengthy histo- jellabiyya and jellabiya. Because the jellaba
ries, have developed to suit the climate is worn over other clothing, it usually
and availability of raw materials. These includes side-seam slits allowing access to
utilitarian clothes are decorated with cul- pockets in the inner garments. Jellabas are
turally based designs and colors, and hooded and feature a slit opening at the
their traditional forms provide lush and front neckline, which is often embroidered.
varied inspirations for embellishing our The deep hood provides protection from
modern fashions. fierce sun and, in desert areas, dangerous
blowing sand.
Although wool is frequently associated
The jellaba with cold-weather wear, it’s probably the
One traditional Moroccan garment is the most traditional fiber for jellabas. Camel
jellaba. It is a loosely fitted robe that is hair, as well as other hair fibers, can be
worn by both men and women over other used to make woolen fabric. In light col-
garments. Jellabas are seen in many styles ors, wool reflects the sunlight away from
and colors, often varied regionally. They the body, and the natural wool fiber pro-
are frequently worn with a red fez (conical vides a layer of insulation from heat as well
hat) and yellow babouch (shoes). Colors as cold temperatures.
range from white to brown, green, rust and Today jellabas can be purchased over the
yellow for men, and an even wider range of Internet in easy-care polyester. Synthetic
colors for women. fibers offer the traditional appearance of
The women’s version is sometimes worn the garment, but not its functionality.
with a scarf, in keeping with local customs Choose a light to mediumweight wool,
that dictate modest apparel. At home, linen, rayon, cotton or blend to create your

7 Creative Machine Embroidery


The embroidery colors
represent the climate of
Morocco: Mediterranean
blues, hot orange sun and
the golden browns of camel
hair and desert sands.
Butterick
6881

Creative Machine Embroidery 8


The brown robe worn by
Obi-Wan Kenobi in the Star
Wars movies was based on a
traditional jellaba.

 Other locations for jellaba embroidery


are the sleeves, hood and hem. Stitch the
same border used at the neckline around
the hood’s outer edge and the sleeve hems
or create a slit in the sleeve above its
hemline and embroider it to match the
neckline detail.
 Embroider the border motif around the
entire jellaba hem, if desired. As another
option, use short border segments or spot
motifs to fill a triangular area above the
hem on each side of the center front seam.

Our jellaba
Our Moroccan influenced robe is con-
The hemline motif is a repeating structed from a textured woven crepe. It’s
tile design similar to those found in thin and drapeable for comfortable wear
Moorish architectural details. in warm weather. Neckline embroidery
might be hidden by the open-necked hood
or interfere with the zipper, so the embroi-
own jellaba. Crepe weaves will drape indigenous Berber people contributed
dery is concentrated at the front hemline
attractively, or choose fleece or velour geometric patterns to Moroccan art.
and on the sleeves.
for a warmer version. The jellaba is an  For a traditional appearance, look for The embroidery colors represent the cli-
ideal silhouette for leisure wear, from embroidery designs that mimic geometric mate of Morocco: Mediterranean blues,
robes worn with pajamas to bathing suit mosaics or knot work borders. Repeating hot orange sun and the golden browns of
cover-ups. and interlocking geometric patterns are camel hair and desert sands. The hemline
wonderful choices. motif is a repeating tile design similar to
Design selection  Border designs stitched on either side of those found in Moorish architectural
In general, Muslim tenets prohibit repre- the neckline slit mirror traditional Moroccan details. The sleeve seam is left open for 41⁄2"
sentational art, so decorative patterns have decoration created with applied braid. Add a above the hem, creating a slit embellished with
evolved from geometric forms and flowing single motif across the slit’s bottom to com- a narrower embroidered border design, mim-
calligraphy. Even the influence of the plete the effect and reinforce the slit opening. icking the braid on the authentic garment.

A Draw guideline 1 3⁄4" above lower B Loosely gather remainder of sleeve into open circle C Guidelines for
edge of each front piece to indi- around embroidery area and stitch motifs. decorative stitches.
cate lower edge of embroidery
2" designs. Draw vertical guidelines Zipper
2", 4" and 6" from front raw edge
to indicate vertical center of each
4" design column. Decorative Stitches

6"

Embroidery

1 3⁄4"

9 Creative Machine Embroidery


Morocco
Officially this country on the northwestern corner of Africa is the Kingdom
of Morocco. It is an ancient place, inhabited at least since 8000 B.C. It
was drawn into the modern world during Greek and Roman times by
Mediterranean traders, and became part of the Arab world during Muslim
expansion 700 years B.C.
In 1777, Morocco became the first country to recognize the United States
as a separate nation. The 1786 Treaty of Friendship between the U.S. and
Morocco is the longest unbroken friendship treaty in the history of the U.S.
Today the heavily populated portions of Morocco, especially the cities
of Casablanca and Marrakesh, attract tourists from around the world.
The country’s interior ranges from forested mountains to arid, sparsely
inhabited desert.

Supplies to stitch the columns on the second front continue each line to connect it with the
piece, with the longest column again posi- outermost group of embroidered motifs.
 Butterick 6881
tioned nearest the center front. Draw a pair of lines almost parallel to the
 Fabric and notions according to pattern
 Serge or otherwise finish the raw edges first ones from the central embroidered
envelope
group on each side to a point on the center
 Adhesive tear-away and water-soluble of the sleeve underarm seam. Mark the
seamline 41⁄2" above the hem foldline. Stitch front seam, 2" below the zipper (C).
stabilizer; lightweight tear-away stabilizer
the seam from the underarm to the mark.  Stabilize the lines with lightweight
(for decorative stitching)
 Embroidery, bobbin and sewing threads  Press the underarm seam open, pressing tear-away stabilizer. Convert to standard
 Removable marker under 5⁄8" on the unstitched portion of the sewing and sew a decorative stitch along
 Embroidery designs of your choice: underarm seam. Hoop water-soluble each line. Tear away the excess stabilizer
approximately 13⁄4" diameter for hemline adhesive stabilizer and attach the lower after each line of stitches and replace it
and a border approximately 3⁄4" tall for portion of the sleeve, where the seam has with fresh stabilizer for the next row of
sleeve been left open. decoration. Complete the robe following
 Using templates or the machine's tracing
the pattern guidesheet.
function, position a narrow border design Optional ideas
Construction
on each side of the open seam. The design  Make a shorter jellaba-styled top that
& embroidery
 Cut out the pattern pieces following the
should stretch from the hem foldline to the ends at the hipline to wear over jeans or
beginning of the stitched seam and lie atop pants.
pattern guide sheet.
the pressed seam allowances. Note: Turn  Eliminate the hood and embroider
 Use a removable marker to draw a the sleeve wrong side out and attach the around the entire neckline as well as the
guideline 13⁄4" above the raw lower edge of embroidery area to the stabilizer. Loosely front slit. 
each front piece to indicate the lower edge gather the remainder of the sleeve into an
of the embroidery designs. Draw vertical open circle around the embroidery area Rebecca Kemp Brent is a freelance author, educator and
guidelines 2", 4" and 6" from the front and stitch the motifs, repositioning the designer who enjoys travel and exploring the rich visual
raw edge to indicate the vertical center of upper sleeve as necessary for each motif heritage of societies around the globe. She is the author of
each design column (A). (B). Stitch the border on each side of the Fill in the Blanks with Machine Embroidery.
 Hoop adhesive stabilizer and attach the slit. Position a single motif from the repeat- Hemline: Baby Lock, Border Collection 1 (BLDP-P10),
ing border horizontally across the top of design 1
prepared fabric. Use a large hoop, if avail-
able, to minimize re-hooping. the slit, covering the first stitches of the Sleeve: Baby Lock, Border Collection 1 (BLDP-P10),

 Use software or the machine's screen


design 15 (edited)
seam, and stitch. This motif will strengthen
functions to combine motifs and create a the slit as well as adding a design detail. Credits

vertical border about 11" high. Center the  Cut away most of the excess stabilizer. Floriani Wet N Stick and Wet N Gone Tacky provided by
RNK Distributing.
combined design on the 2" vertical guide- The remaining stabilizer will dissolve when
Designs edited in BuzzEdit version 2, provided by
line, with its lower edge on the horizontal the robe is washed after construction. BuzzTools.
guideline and stitch.  Assemble the robe front, including the
 Shorten the combined design by one zipper. With a long ruler and a removable
motif and embroider along the 4" line. marker, draw lines 3⁄4" on each side of the
Remove another motif and stitch the final center front opening along the entire zip-
column of motifs along the 6" line. Repeat per length. Turn the ruler at an angle and

Creative Machine Embroidery 10


Mexican
International inspirations

Marvels
Think of traditional Mexican clothing and visions of whirling skirts in bright
colors worn with white peasant-style blouses come to mind. Vividly col-
ored embroidery conveys national pride in its depictions of flowers and
iconic Mexican motifs—prickly pear cactus or an eagle clutching a snake.

History
The year is 1620 and European coloniza- Poblanas differ by region throughout
tion is spreading throughout the Americas. Mexico, and exist today alongside huipils
A young girl from India is sold into servi- as examples of traditional Mexican style.
tude by pirates and brought to Mexico,
where European masters refer to all Indian Fabrics & threads
and Asian servants as Chinese, regardless
of their origins. She later marries a Chinese Mexico plays host to a variety of climatic
servant, adding to the legend that she her- conditions, from tropical to frigid, depend-
self is from that part of Asia. ing on latitude and elevation. Northern
Mexico encompasses the Sonoran and
This woman, called La China Poblana Chihuahuan deserts, and much of the
(the Chinese woman from Puebla) by con- country receives insufficient rainfall during
temporaries, would be no more than an part of the year.
anonymous character in the history of
Puebla, Mexico, was it not for the embroi- For comfort in the hot, dry regions,
dered white blouses and colorful skirts she Mexican folk blouses are constructed of
made and wore as a reminder of her lightweight cotton or linen. The blouse is
homeland and in defiance of her captors. traditionally white, with a neckline cut low
While native Mexican women wore a sim- enough to expose the neck and upper
ple straight dress called a huipil, La China bosom, a characteristic that scandalized the
Poblana’s style was adopted by India-born upper class ladies of the 19th century. A
servants throughout the country. shawl worn with the blouse and skirt pro-
vide modest coverage, as well as protection
This Asian-influenced costume has from cooler temperatures and rain. The
evolved into the “Ballet Folklorico” dress China Poblana blouse is embellished with
style symbolic of the Mexican peasant colorful silk embroidery of flowers or geo-
dress. The dresses, called China Poblanas metric patterns. The embroidery lies on the
in memory of their originator, are a perfect upper portion of the blouse, just below the
complement to the swirling moves of neckline, and extends across the sleeves as
Mexican folk dance companies. China well as the garment front.

11 Creative Machine Embroidery


Create the look of
Mexican embroidery
on a peasant blouse
with a combination
of bright threads and
floral motifs.

Simplicity
3887

Creative Machine Embroidery 12


Stitch Mexican motifs
such as folk dancers,
burros or sombreros
on table linens.

To re-create the trendy looking Mexican with bright, pure colors that range fusible interfacing as called for on the
folk blouse, select a lightweight woven across the spectrum. Red and green on pattern envelope
fabric. Handkerchief linen and fine cotton white, the colors of Mexico’s flag, are  Rayon embroidery, bobbin and sewing
broadcloth are possibilities; even high- traditional choices. There is little shad- thread
quality muslin can be used. Ideally, the ing in the motifs, so generally only one t Heat-soluble or adhesive water-soluble
fabric will gather softly and drape well. value of each hue is used in the design. stabilizer
(Always preshrink the fabric, as cotton Such a basic color palette contributes to  Removable marker
and linen will shrink when washed.) For the folk-art appearance of the China  Floral embroidery designs of your choice
machine embroidery, choose rayon or Poblana style.
glossy polyester embroidery threads to Embroidery
simulate the appearance of silk. A pattern & construction
Our peasant blouse

with an elastic neckline or small yoke
Like a traditional China Poblana blouse, Cut out the pattern pieces as directed in
with gathers below reproduces the China
our sample adaptation is sewn from cool the pattern guidesheet.
Poblana’s characteristic silhouette.
white cotton. The blouse and sleeves are  Using removable marker, draw a series
gathered to a curved yoke for a flattering of dashes around the neckline, 5 ⁄ 8" below
Design selection fit without neckline elastic. the cut edge, to indicate the seamline.
Simple floral designs are ideal for stitching The embroidered satin stitch flowers Draw another set of dashes 1" below the
a China Poblana blouse. Look for small accentuate the rayon thread’s sheen, and first in the area that will feature the
flowers or open fill designs to preserve the are traditionally positioned on the front embroidery (A).
lightweight fabric’s drape. Stems created and sleeves. Pair the blouse with a skirt or  Print or stitch a template of the designs.
with running stitches are more suitable jeans and wear it tucked in or as an Create a mirror image of the design in
than satin-stitched stems. Look for designs overblouse—belted or not. software and print a second template.
 Position the template under the blouse
created from old hand needlework pat-
terns, or motifs digitized to mimic the
appearance of hand embroidery.
Supplies left front with the embroidery's upper edge
 Peasant blouse pattern along the second set of dashes and its

Mexican folk embroidery is stitched White cotton fabric and lightweight front edge 1" from the garment center
13 Creative Machine Embroidery
If the machine has an automatic jump-stitch cutter, turn it off to decrease the long
colored threads left on the wrong side. Instead clip the jumps after embroidery, which
will leave fewer threads to show through the fabric.

front. The template should be visible mirror image, and position it under the Rebecca Kemp Brent is a freelance author, educator and
through the fabric; if not, lay white paper second sleeve. Mark in the same manner. designer who enjoys travel and exploring the rich visual
under the template to improve visibility.  Hoop the stabilizer with the fabric. heritage of societies around the globe. Her most recent
 Using removable marker or chalk, mark Embroider the first design. It may be neces- book is Fill in the Blanks with Machine Embroidery.

the cross marks. Turn the template over to sary to decrease the thread tension to mini-
Floral designs: Brother, Card #23, designs 67, 68
create a mirror image, and place it in the mize puckering around the satin stitched
Napkin designs: Oklahoma Embroidery Supply & Design,
corresponding position under the blouse roses. Repeat to embroider all designs. Pack #12181, designs NB155_48 (folk dancer),
right front.  After embroidery, remove the markings; NB157_48 (burro)
 Mark the cross marks for the second remove the excess stabilizer following the
motif. manufacturer’s directions. Carefully press Credit
 Draw similar guidelines on each sleeve, around the motifs with the fabric right side Floriani Heat N Gone stabilizer provided by RNK
down on a thick towel. Distributing.
but make the second guideline just 3 ⁄ 4"
below the seamline. Draw a vertical line  Assemble the blouse following the pat-
on each sleeve 1 ⁄ 4" to the front of the tern guidesheet.
shoulder dot marked on the pattern piece.  Optional: Launder the blouse in cool
 Place the template under the sleeve fab- water on a delicate cycle. Press from the
ric with its upper edge on the 3 ⁄ 4" guide- wrong side with a light application of
line, matching its vertical centerline to the spray starch to refresh the embroidery
drawn guideline. Mark the design's hori- after laundering. 
zontal center. Turn the template to create a

5 ⁄ 8"

A Mark garment front 5⁄8" 1"


from cut neckline edge.
Mark 1” below seamline.
Position template under
fabric as shown. 1"

Creative Machine Embroidery 14


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