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That’s what you can find, when you “google” Surabaya. But I know this city from the different side. As every
seaman I know it as the Port of Surabaya, especially Madura Strait, which is a stretch of water that
separates the Indonesian islands of Java and Madura, in the province of East Java and also one of the most
congested anchorages in South East Asia.
And that what you get, when you have a closer look from Google Earth:
Or the real-life version from the radar screen:
In 2014, I spent 3 months staying at anchor and going outside the Strait couple of times. It took a while
before I found a minute to describe my impressions and experience. And I confidently can state that it was
the Experience.
With rotating tidal streams and sudden gale force winds it is really different from common quietness and
relaxation of a long term roadstead.
And the picture below wasn’t just a joke. It was a day-to-day reality, when you rather have vessel anchored
too close and being turned by the current in such a way that it almost hits you, or you have strong wind
gusts that make some sometimes really big vessels to drag their anchor and drift towards you. In both cases
you have to start your engines and adjust or change your anchorage position.
It’s a whole other story on how did we monitored our position at anchor, which I’ll discuss in the next post.
In this post though, I can show some of the incidents happened during our stay. No blame to anyone. I
guess, any congested place have problems from time to time.
Sometimes water could get some brighter rainbow colors… As there many ships around and the current is
strong you really don’t want to claim it as yours : )
Another day I came on my usual 4 am watch, had a coffee, it was still dark. At 5 am I had a look outside the
bridge window to the quay side, there was a small cargo ship loading. At 6 am, when bosun came to have a
usual day planning meeting, I looked there again and imagine my surprise…
It wasn’t exactly vessel from the picture. But this other vessel sunk just alongside. In following hours there
was a crowd of local canoes picking up bags of floating rice…
But also, closer look at the quay allows to see that it wasn’t the first guy, you may see a wreck by the stern
of the white vessel:
Another day someone hit poor yellow buoy:
But the most thrilling thing happened on a perfect sunny morning, when we had an annual classification
audit and I just walked out with the surveyor to go around decks:
Apparently it was a local container vessel leaving the anchorage without a pilot and ran aground. It sunk in
15 minutes. Crew managed to abandon the vessel right after grounding, no casualties were reported, so far.
As we were heading outside Madura Strait we met one more vessel not under command and anchored
right in the channel:
When I was preparing this post I found out that, unfortunately, that wasn’t the last case of vessel sinking in
the Strait. On 16-Nov-2015 a ferry KM Wihan Sejahtera with 175 passengers onboard. As per maritime-
connector.com the ship started getting water inside and decided to return to the terminal, but got large list
to starboard and sank on the way back. Some survivors said that they felt the stroke before vessel started to
list… which means that the ferry possibly ran aground.
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Wish you calm seas and best regards!