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11/27/2020 The Ultimate Etosha National Park Wildlife Viewing Guide | BIG tiny World Travel

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THE ULTIMATE ETOSHA N AT ION AL


PARK WILDLIFE V IEWING GUID E
By Brianna Shade in Namibia, Planning

When we rst checked in at the Andersson Gate at the south end of Etosha National Park,
the guard thought he misheard when we told him we were planning to camp in the park
for six nights.  While much longer than their average visitors (who tend to only spend 3-4
days in the park), we had the luxury of time on our hands.  With that time, we were
fortunate enough to discover all the best places in the park to spot the wide variety of
wildlife.

And now, we can share that knowledge with you.  Which animals do you most want to nd
in the park?

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Note that commonality indicators are based solely on our personal experience and how often we
saw each animal while in Etosha.

ELEPHANTS
(very common)

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Who doesn’t love a beautifully wrinkled pachyderm?  These amazing creatures have
graced covers of National Geographic and delighted children and adults alike for
decades.  They’re incredibly intelligent, and they are a wonder to observe in the wild.

The good news: we didn’t go a single day in Etosha without seeing at least a dozen or
more elephants (most days way more).  With over 2500 individuals in the park, that
shouldn’t be too surprising.

While it was rare to see individuals roaming the tall grasses along the side of the road, we
frequently saw large herds at the watering holes.  Sometimes they would already be there
by the time we pulled up; other times, they crashed the scene, scattering lesser herds of
springbok or impala.  Either way, park yourself at a nearby watering hole, especially in the
afternoon, and wait for a bit.  You’ll know they’re on their way when you see the growing
dust cloud.

Our favorite viewing spot: Tsumcor watering hole.  The water is quite close to the parking
area, so you can get a great view of anything that comes up to it.  It was here that we had
our most memorable elephant experience: at least 20 elephants – including several
babies – drinking, splashing, rolling around, and everything else in between.

ZEBRAS
(very common)

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Like elephants, we were excited to see real zebras in the wild.  Zoos might offer a few
individuals, but it’s really only Africa where you can be treated to large herds (also called
“zeals” or “dazzles”) of zebras in one place.  And it wasn’t until we saw these larger groups
that we truly understood how their stark black-and-white pelts serve as camou age.  It
really is quite dazzling!  Bonus: apparently these stripes also ward off mosquitoes and
biting ies!  It’s thought that the temperature differences between light and dark
surfaces confuse them, providing a natural protection.

We also saw zebras daily at almost every watering hole throughout our seven days in the
park.  Like elephants, they would sometimes arrive at the scene after we were parked
watching other animals (but with far less gusto).  Oftentimes, they would even walk right
in front of our truck!  We had no issues capturing some great close-ups of these cute
mohawk-sporting faces.

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Our favorite viewing spot: Rietfontein watering hole.  While parking is not quite as close
as it is at Tsumcor, it still affords excellent views of the water, and we rarely passed by
this waterhole without seeing some zebras.  We saw them here both mornings and
afternoons.

We also saw lots of zebras simply hanging out on the east end of the park, just inside the
King Nehale Gate.  Apparently, when they aren’t thirsty, this is where they hang out!

GIRAFFES
(common)

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We saw giraffes every day in the park.  Though they don’t show up in the same droves as
elephants or zebras, we had no problem spotting them (see what I did there?).  However,
unlike other animals, we seldom saw these skyscrapers at watering holes.  Instead, these
were mostly happenstance encounters.  We even saw two giraffes almost immediately
upon entering the park on our rst day!

The tip for these guys is to look for the likewise taller vegetation (of which there is
plenty).  We saw them mostly in the mornings and in the later afternoons, occasionally
midday.  Drive around, especially off the main road, and you should encounter them.

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Our favorite viewing spot: We didn’t really have one for giraffes, as they were almost all
as we were driving past.  However, we were also fortunate enough to see them one
afternoon at Rietfontein, bending their long necks down for a drink.  And we did see a
baby early morning on our way to Klein Okevi.

WILDEBEESTS
(common)

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Considered one of the “Ugly 5,” anyone who is familiar with The Lion King would recognize
these herd animals.  They are also technically a type of antelope, and though some
consider them unsightly, I found them to be quite photogenic.

No, we didn’t see a stampede, but we did see some very large herds!

Our favorite viewing spot: The east plain just south of King Nehale Gate.  We came
across several individuals throughout our many drives in the park – usually in the
afternoon – and we saw a few small herds at a watering hole here and there.  But the real
cream of the crop were out on this east plain.. and we didn’t even discover its existence
until we were on our way out of the park!

OSTRICHES
(occasional)

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The largest bird in the world and casual taxi for young Simba.  These ightless birds are
much larger than they seem!  Perhaps it’s because I’ve only seen them on television or
from afar in zoos, I just didn’t expect them to be that big.  Average male heights start at
almost 7 feet tall (over 2m).  We also didn’t get to see them running at full speed, but
what little we did see assured us this isn’t a bird to mess with!

Most of the time, they were pretty good at keeping their small heads sheltered within the
shadows of their much larger bodies.  This made photography a bit dif cult, but they sure
looked kind of silly in that position.

Our favorite viewing spot: Groot Okevi waterhole.  When we were there, there was hardly
any water, so all of the clustered animals were each vying for a spot.  Several ostriches
had gathered and began bickering with each other, wings spread.  It was actually rather
entertaining to watch.

IMPALAS
(occasional)

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Impalas look very similar to the much more common springbok, and we often confused
the two.  However, impalas in the park have a dark face while springboks’ are white, and
the horns are larger.  We didn’t see as many during our time in Etosha, but we saw
enough to get some good pictures of them.

Our favorite viewing spot: Tsumcor.  Not just great for elephants, this watering hole
attracted an entire herd of impala.  They were chasing each other around the water, uffy
tails in the air, while grey loeries watched from the tree overhead.  We sporadically saw
them off the side of the road all throughout the day, but their highest concentrations
were seen during the afternoon.

ORYX
(occasional)

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We had no idea what these beautiful creatures when we rst saw them.  With their black
faces and their striking straight horns, they were an imposing sight.  We grew more
accustomed to them, especially since they seemed to become more frequent during our
stay.

Later during our trip, we saw oryx in the Namib Desert, and we even had an oryx steak at
Okonjima (it tasted very much like beef, without any of the layers of fat).

Our favorite viewing spot: Nebrownii waterhole.  This tiny watering hole is out in the
middle of a at span of dirt, just outside of Okaukuejo camp.  It doesn’t look like it really
belongs there, and I’m pretty sure it’s manmade.  But it still attracted the local wildlife! 
With a backdrop of sleeping ostriches, several oryx visited, giving us a wonderful view of
their proud visage, re ected in the pool.

WARTHOGS
(rare)

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After the drive up from Windhoek, you might not be so keen on seeking out warthogs, as
they are everywhere along the highway.  Watch for the wildlife signs, and be cautious
driving with these little critters on the side of the road.  Honestly, you’d be hard-pressed
to miss them.

But if you want to photograph them, suddenly pulling off the B road (especially outside a
designated rest area) could be dif cult.  Fortunately, they can be found within Etosha as
well.

Many locals call this member of the Ugly 5 “pumbaa,” likely in uenced by The Lion King. 
The Swahili word actually means “acting foolish,” which was appropriate for the
character, but maybe not the entire species.  In any case, the name stuck.

Our favorite viewing spot: We actually didn’t see any for almost the entire time we were
in the park… until our last day.  We nally found them on the east side of the park – just
south of the King Nehale Gate – in with the zebras and wildebeests.

H YENAS
(rare)

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Another member of the “Ugly 5,” hyenas are actually really interesting to watch.  We didn’t
see many while we were in Etosha, and when we did, it was usually at night.  After all, they
are nocturnal, like many other predators.

Therefore, the best times to catch them are just after sunrise or just before sunset.  Given
we wanted to make sure we were back at our camp well before we got locked out, we
weren’t pushing things at the sunset end of the day.  Instead, we busted the gates at
dawn, and we were somewhat reliably able to spot a few hyenas in the daytime.

Our favorite viewing spot: Goas watering hole.  This double pool was great for attracting
wildlife, and we saw hyenas here a few times.  We also read this was a good spot to view
other predators, but we struck out on that count.

RH INOS
(rare)

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Everyone wants to see rhinos when visiting Africa, right?  Right up there with elephants,
they command a sense of majestic beauty few other animals can emulate.  Sadly, these
gorgeous creatures are still critically endangered.

Poaching counts have been very slowly decreasing, but 50-60 are still illegally killed every
year.  And ironically, they’re killed for their horns, something that 1) is a renewable
resource (a rhino’s horn continues to grow throughout its life much like ngernails); and
2) doesn’t actually have the magical medicinal powers they’re believed to have (their
makeup is much like hair or ngernails).

Etosha is home to around 1700 black rhinos, about a third of all that remain in the world. 
While that number might sound promising as far as spotting them, they tend to be more
solitary and nocturnal than elephants, making them less commonly seen.  We were
fortunate enough to see a few of them during our time there.

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Did you know the “black” and “white” rhino distinctions are actually a misnomer?  The
Afrikaans word “weid” actually means “wide,” referring to the duck-like wide mouth of the
grazing rhino.  This was obviously confused to mean “white.”  “Black” was then a natural
alternative to describe the browsing beak-mouthed bush-eating rhino variety.

Our favorite viewing spot: While we certainly have one for rhinos, for their protection, I
am not going to advertise where we most commonly found them.  With any luck,
conservation efforts will be successful enough to not need this precaution in the future. 
If rhinos are high on your list, and you haven’t had any luck spotting them on your own,
your best bet might be to join one of the organized evening game drives when they are
most active.

LIONS
(very rare)

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We went to Africa speci cally to see cats.  Unfortunately, these magni cent felines
eluded our every attempt to spot them.  We did see one small pride, waaaay in the
distance, and that was only because other cars were stopped already.  It was kind of
disappointing, photographically.

We did learn, however, that to increase your chances of seeing them, you have to be out
right as the gates open.  They also tend to prefer more open, rocky dips in the ground,
closer to the pan.  We heard some spotted them at the Goas watering hole, but we
personally didn’t have any luck.

CHEETAHS
(very rare)

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We also didn’t see any cheetahs, much to our disappointment.  They are most commonly
seen in the most open areas on the west end of the park, and we saw evidence of
carcasses to support the idea that this was predator territory.  Cheetahs are even diurnal,
and the highest populations of cheetah are in Namibia, so we should have had a good
chance at seeing them.  Unfortunately, we were unsuccessful, which is why we later
backtracked to Okonjima, where we did.

LEOPARDS
(very rare)

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Just like the cheetahs, we sadly missed the leopards in Etosha National Park.  We very
much wanted to see them (any of the cats, really), but leopards are nocturnal, which
makes them even more dif cult to encounter.

We ponied up for a game drive in the Okonjima Nature Reserve.  While they have a healthy
population of leopards there, seeing them isn’t guaranteed, as they are experts at hiding. 
The time and money were totally worth it, though, as we got to meet beautiful Amali!

If you’re set on seeing either leopards or cheetahs, we recommend checking out


Okonjima (though book early if you want to camp and save quite a bit over staying at the
resort).

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WHAT ABOUT BUFFA LO?


The last of the Big 5 is the cape buffalo.  Known to be very aggressive and unpredictable,
this magni cent beast actually does not make its home in Namibia.  If you want to round
out the last of the Big 5 on your punchcard, you’ll likely have better luck at one of the
parks or on a game drive in Tanzania or South Africa.

BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VI SI T ETOSHA

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If you want to maximize your viewing experience in Etosha, the best time of year to visit is
during the southern hemisphere’s winter: July through October.  These months are the
driest, and with increased water scarcities, animals are forced to congregate at dwindling
watering holes.  This means larger concentrations of everything from elephants and
zebras to lions and oryx.

The drier winter months also mean fewer mosquitoes.  Ordinarily, Etosha falls within the
recognized malaria zone in Namibia.  But during the winter, it falls to a “low risk” status
due to the lack of stagnant water and cooler temperatures.  Be sure to verify with your
local travel clinic, and carry anti-malaria pills if advised.  We didn’t bother, and we didn’t
encounter any mosquitoes.

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We visited in July, and it was perfect.  The days still got rather hot, so hats and sunscreen
are a good idea for time spent outside your vehicle.  And the nights were cool.  We were
plenty comfortable camping atop our 4×4, but we had suf cient padding underneath and
blankets on top.  If you stay in one of the many rooms available in the camps, you
shouldn’t have any issues.

RECOMMENDED PHOTO GEAR


Now, it’s no surprise that I’m a photographer.  Therefore, I care a lot about making sure I
have the right gear for the job.  I wanted the experience rst, of course, but secondarily, I
wanted to preserve that experience for future viewing and reminiscing.

MY GEAR

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If you’re traveling long-term like we are, then size and weight matter to you.  I had to be
very selective in the gear I brought.  I went with a Sony a7R III with a Canon 70-200mm
and a 1.4x extender.  This combination allowed me to bring the minimal gear and get the
maximum reach.

The 70-200 is a exible range, good for wildlife far and somewhat close.  The extender
obviously lets me get closer, with the option to remove it if something came closer to our
vehicle.  I ended up just leaving it on the entire time.  This combination is both cheaper
and lighter weight than a 400mm or 600mm lens, and it is more versatile for the rest of
our trip when I’m not shooting wildlife.

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The Sony is a full-frame, which gives me much better quality, and with the higher
megapixel count, I can crop photos of distant animals fairly small and still have a
useable photo.

MY REC O MMEN DATIO N

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If size, weight, and versatility are of no issue to you, I would recommend the longest lens
you can afford, paired with a shorter lens (possibly on a second camera) for when a herd
of zebras cross in front of your truck.

And if you’re into video like Aaron, that same setup should work well, though I might add
a monopod or some means of stabilization.  Aaron lmed using mostly a compact Sony
a6500 paired with a Sony Zeiss 16-70mm lens.  He borrowed some of my tighter footage
taken with my longer lens.

Note that drones are strictly prohibited within the park.  If you have one amongst your
gear (as we did), you must declare it upon entering.  Park of cials will “lock” your drone
with a cable, and they’ll unlock it upon your departure.  Please don’t be that idiot
terrorizing the wildlife with your drone.

IS A 4×4 REQUIRED?

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Most of the roads in Etosha National Park are fairly well-maintained, though they are all
dirt/gravel.  There were a few rough side roads that were a bit unpleasant, but I don’t
think it’s anything an ordinary car couldn’t handle.

However, our 4×4 also came with a tent on top, which was our sole lodging for almost our
entire time in Namibia.  It also came equipped with all of our necessary cooking
essentials, so we could adequately live out of this truck.  To get the scoop on everything
you could possibly want to know about renting and living in one of these trucks, feel free
to check out our article on renting a 4×4 in Namibia.

If you want to save some money on your visit to Etosha, you might consider camping with
one of these vehicles instead of staying in one of the camp lodges.

WHERE TO STAY

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There are three primary camps within the border of Etosha National Park (with a few
additional lesser camps).  While you could theoretically stay outside the park, we would
highly recommend you stay at one of these camps for the best experience.  Staying in the
park allows you to get to the watering holes earlier, as you’ll have less distance to drive. 
And each camp includes its own fenced waterhole, oodlight-lit for nighttime wildlife
watching.

Each camp is fenced from the surrounding wildlife, so you needn’t worry about midnight
lions creeping past your tent.  However, because they are enclosed, the gates to each are
kept closed between sunset and sunrise.  We’re not entirely sure what would happen if we
missed the sunset curfew (we never wanted to stay out long enough to nd out), but we
suspect some hefty nes.  If you are staying outside of the park, you will not be allowed to
leave should you miss the closing time of the main gate.  Instead, you’ll be forced to stay
in one of the three camps inside the park.

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Each camp has a variety of accommodations, from barebones campsites (which is what
we had) to family chalets.  The campsites each have water, lights, power outlets, and
access to communal bathrooms and showers.  We had everything we needed.

The major camps also have on-site restaurants, outdoor pools, small grocery shops (more
like convenience stores), and gas stations.  Rest assured you won’t need to leave the park
during your stay.  Most of these facilities also take credit cards, which we found very
handy.

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If you don’t have the means or desire to drive the park yourself, you can book morning,
afternoon, and evening game drives from any of the three camps.  This is also a good
option if you want to have a better chance at seeing one of the more elusive nocturnal
animals.

Our recommendation, if you have a few days to spend in Etosha, is to spread them across
the different camps.  Etosha is quite vast, and this allows you time to access all corners
of the park as soon as the gates open at sunrise.  With the western end being better for
cheetah spottings and the eastern better for herds, you’ll increase your chances of seeing
everything.

H OW MUCH DOES IT COST ?


There are several expenses when it comes to visiting Etosha National Park, and many will
simply depend on how long you stay and how much you drive.

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PARK ACCESS

Just to get into the park, you must pay a daily permit fee.  This differs depending on if
you’re a local or foreigner or if you’re a resident of one of the Southern African
Development Community (SADC) nations.

For a non-African adult, it is N$80 per day, plus a N$10 per day car fee as of this writing. 
For us, this was about N$170 ($12 USD) per day.  You can nd the latest rates on the
Etosha website here.

C AMP STAY

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On top of the park access, there are nightly fees to stay at one of the camps.  We went
with one of the cheapest options: a simple campsite.  Prices vary depending on the type
of accommodation and the time of year.  July happened to be peak season, so our
campsite was N$389 ($28 USD) per night.

If you opt for a room or chalet, prices vary depending on the camps.  Halali (the camp in
the middle of the park) is the cheapest, starting at N$1332 ($96 USD) per night. 
Okaukuejo (the west camp) and Namutoni (the east camp) start at N$1665 ($120 USD)
per night.

You can nd the most up-to-date accommodation prices for all of the camps here.

Note that the fee to stay at one of the camps does not include the daily park entrance fee.

FO O D

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Of course, if you’re staying multiple days, you gotta eat.  We didn’t eat at any of the
restaurants.  We stuck with simple rice dishes paired with some sort of canned soup,
curry, or beans, and that kept us fed quite nicely.

All told, we spent about N$263 ($19 USD) per day on food for the two of us.  This
included water (a necessary regular purchase in Namibia – note most grocery stores in
the towns can re ll 5L jugs) and a couple bottles of wine (which is super cheap in Africa –
only about N$80 ($6 USD) per bottle).

GAS

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This is another essential, and it entirely depends on how much driving you do each day. 
We were there for the wildlife, so we were out at sunrise and driving all day to cover as
much ground and see as many animals as possible.  This expense also greatly depends
on the fuel ef ciency of your vehicle.  We were driving a 4×4 truck, so it probably wasn’t
the most ef cient, but it was the perfect vehicle for our needs.

With such intense driving, we averaged about N$388 ($28 USD) in gas each day.

RENTAL C AR
Unless you’re visiting Etosha National Park with a tour or driving your own vehicle from a
neighboring city, you’ll need to rent a car.  This, of course, also incurs a daily fee.  For us,
our rental was both our transportation and our lodging, so it was worth the premium.  For
an all-inclusive 4×4 vehicle, we paid about N$1586 ($110 USD) per day.  Your cost here
will obviously depend on the company from which you rent and the type of vehicle you
hire.

GAME DRIV ES

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Etosha is the perfect place for a multi-day self-drive safari.  This is precisely what we did. 
However, if you feel like you’re missing out on something, or you just want someone else
to take the wheel for a bit and show you the best of what Etosha has to offer, you could
opt for a game drive.

Each camp organizes their own game drives, and prices range from N$650-750 ($47-54
USD) per person, depending on season and time of day.  You can nd the prices for game
drives listed with the accommodation prices for each camp.

GRAND TOTAL
For us, we spent about N$2796 ($201 USD) per day to visit Etosha.  For the seven days
(including travel days on either end), that brought us to a grand total of about N$19,013
($1367 USD) for the two of us.

You could probably cut this cost down a bit by renting a non-4×4 and driving less (but
that’s what we went to Etosha to do!).

OTHER ANIMAL “EXPERI ENCES ”

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When looking for opportunities to see wildlife, you’ll no doubt come across numerous
farms, reserves, and special animal “experiences.”  However, we implore you to do your
research with these, as many are not in the wildlife’s best interests.

As a general rule of thumb, you should steer clear of any advertisements that boast direct
interaction with humans.  This includes elephant rides, petting cheetahs, and any other
promises to hold or touch wildlife.  While this might sound like an amazing opportunity,
animals in these programs have been tamed for tourism.  Often times, they are forcibly
removed from their natural habitat to sustain a gimmick for human entertainment. 
Some are physically abused to subdue them into servitude.

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Also be on the lookout while on game drives in private reserves.  If big cats and other
predators seem excited about an approaching vehicle, or if they look up at its occupants
expectantly, chances are high they’ve been trained to expect food.  These creatures no
longer have any motivation to hunt for themselves, and they are also tamed.  That bodes
ill for that business, as it indicates they might not be protecting the wildlife so much as
imprisoning it.  Animals taught to be fed will never be released into the wild (they
wouldn’t survive).

Instead, we advocate for the support of programs like AfriCat at Okonjima.  They do have
cheetahs in captivity, but these are rescues from hostile environments where they would
have otherwise been killed by farmers, or they were brought in as cubs from someone
who foolishly thought it would make for a great pet.  They have already been deemed
unreleasable, so they use the opportunity to instead study their behavior and educate
locals on their preservation.

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Their main draw is actually their leopard reserve, where the cats have large territories and
hunt naturally.  Though she’s become desensitized to safari trucks, Amali never looked
up at us expecting a meal.  She could theoretically be released back into the wild if there
was a safe place for her to go.

Trust us, wildlife is so much more rewarding observed in the wild.

GENERAL TIPS FOR V I SI T I NG ETOSHA

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Don’t leave your car, except in designated rest areas.  You don’t want to become
lion mincemeat.
By that same token, don’t deliberately drive too close to the animals.  Particularly
larger animals like elephants and rhinos could do a number on your rental, and no
one wants to pay for those repairs.
Get out from your camp as early as you can each morning; that’s really when the
best wildlife can be observed.

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Don’t be late returning to your camp.  Gate open and close times are posted at each
entrance.  This might be slightly different than the of cial sunrise/sunset times. 
The posted times are when the gates will open and close, regardless of when the
sun is actually up.  We always gave ourselves a half hour buffer.
Have patience.  Sometimes, the best animal sightings are after you’ve arrived at a
waterhole.  Drive to your favorite, and then park it there for a while.  You never know
when something awesome might show up!
If you still can’t nd a speci c animal you’re seeking, check the books at each
camp.  Near the front desk, visitors jot down recent animal sightings in a log book,
along with time and location.  This could help you pinpoint where a given animal is
most likely to return.  If you see something less common, help others by writing in
your own sightings!

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If your vehicle has the room (and you aren’t driving), sit in the center back seat.  I
found this to be the perfect spot for photography.  Whenever we stopped, I could
quickly slide either direction to shoot the wildlife (and never had to lean over Aaron
in the driver seat).
Don’t forget to check out the watering holes in your own camp.  Sure, get out of the
camp as early as possible, but the watering hole in your camp could also have
some morning wildlife.  The evenings are also a great time to check them out; you
have to be back within the gates anyway.  We often cooked up some simple grub
and brought it with us to the waterhole where we enjoyed our “evening television.”

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Always be on the lookout for wildlife.  Springbok especially love to jump out in front
of cars, so stay vigilant!  Besides, some can blend in quite well.  Wildlife is
everywhere; don’t miss it!

Which is your favorite African animal?  What would you want to see most on a safari?

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PUBLISHED BY BRIA NNA SHAD E


My name is Brianna, and I have been in love with photography for as long as I
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6 THOUGHTS ON “THE ULTIMATE ETOS HA


NATIONA L PARK WILD LIF E V IEWING GUIDE”
Zo Ferguson says:
October 10, 2019 at 6:47 am
Great to read about and see these wild adventure pictures! So awesome!

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Brianna Shade says:


October 10, 2019 at 1:43 pm
Thank you! It really was an amazing time!!

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Life In Camelot says:


October 12, 2019 at 5:17 am
What a great post and sensational photos. I’m envious of being able to see
these glorious creatures in their natural habitat. Even the ‘ugly’ ones look

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amazing.
I look forward to seeing future posts.

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Brianna Shade says:


October 12, 2019 at 2:50 pm
Thank you! It truly was an experience of a lifetime, and I’m glad we have the
photos to remember it always!

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Reply

Jack Lim says:


October 13, 2019 at 6:03 am
Such amazing photoshoots of the beautiful wildlife. Love it

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Brianna Shade says:


October 13, 2019 at 2:06 pm
Thank you, Jack! It really was a memorable experience!

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