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Goodbye Chemtrails, Hello Blue Skies!

The Do-It-Yourself Kit for Sky Repair

This web page reproduced with permission from

Ken Adachi of Educate_yourself organization
<mailto:Editor@educate-yourself.org>
The Visual Ray
(http://educate-yourself.org/visualray21may0.html), a technique I
learned from reading Trevor James Constable's book, /The Cosmic
Pulse of Life/. After demonstrating the technique to her on a couple
of smaller clouds, we worked together on evaporating a particular
large cumulus cloud and noticed how the blueness of the sky was
slightly darker where the large cloud had existed only a few minutes
earlier, a result of intensified orgone energy accumulating in that
area. Almost simultaneously, we wondered aloud whether a group of
people could use this technique to break up chemtrails! I tried it a
number of times on my own, but I couldn't get chemtrail 'clouds' to
break up and disperse the same way normal clouds would and I
wondered silently whether a /Cloudbuster/, a simple invention of
Wilhelm Reich.to direct orgone energy in the atmosphere, could
tackle the job.

Over the course of 35 years, Trevor Constable had modified Reich's

original long pipe arrayed Cloudbuster down to a much smaller,
compact, and simpler design that could 'make' or 'break' weather in
any direction he chose: He could make rain or stop it; he could
relieve drought and break up smog or create a dry spell and
intensify smog conditions. It all depended on how you manipulated
the atmospheric ether in a given area. Trevor discovered that it all
depends on how you apply his modified Cloudbuster design to direct
the /flow/ of etheric energy. If you bottle up the etheric flow, or
stymie its normal expansive and contractile pulse, you will get
drought (and smog). If you release the etheric flow after being
'bottled up' or stuck during a dry spell, you will get torrential
rains. There is likely no civilian on the face of this earth who has
accumulated more expertise about weather engineering than Trevor
James Constable

Don Croft
However, the hero of this article is *Don Croft
*(zapper16@earthlink.net), a man who was led to Reich's work with
orgone energy and Cloudbusters by another route entirely. Someone
had directed Don to a web site <http://www.orgone.net/>
(http://www.orgone.net) that discussed Reich's observations about
orgone energy and how you could utilize Reich's inventions of the
Orgone Accumulator (abbreviated "oracs") involving a much smaller
design than the conventional oracs built by Reich using metal
shavings, magnets, crystals, and epoxy or polyester resin. Don
started to make cone shaped oracs using the above mentioned
materials (and plastic funnels for the mold) and called them "Holy
Hand Grenades" (HHG's
<http://educate-yourself.org/HHGconstruction10jan02.htm>)
(http://educate-yourself.org/HHGconstruction10jan02.html). He also
incorporated these ideas into his "terminator" zappers (contact me
if interested: Editor@educate-yourself.org
<mailto:Editor@educate-yourself.org>) .
"Holy Hand Grenades" Batman!
These things had the ability to focus life positive energy and break
up areas of noxious energies or DOR, a word coined by Reich which
means Deadly Orgone Energy. Don calls them orgone /generators/ since
they neutralize DOR and seem to only generate positive, life
affirming energies. Don began planting these HHG's in outdoor
locations near nuclear power plants and other (classified ) areas of
noxious, life depleting energies and started to have a definite
effect on improving the energy fields radiating from these zones.
Since he already was thinking about using the cloudbuster to try and
break up chemtrails, Don took it a step further and combined a large
version of his HHG with a cloudbuster utilizing rigid copper pipes
and a 2 gallon plastic bucket to hold the whole enchilada together.
This modification of Reich's Cloudbuster is a unique and original
design idea of Don's and produces some rather special effects.

He set up his combo orac/cloudbuster outside on a chemtrail overcast

day with the pipes pointing straight up and sure enough, after a
while, the chemtrails started to break up revealing blue sky above.
The longer he left the orac/CB in place, the clearer the sky got ,
eventually covering an area out to 90 miles. He later improved the
orac design and got the coverage to extend out to 120 miles.

Don had contacted me by E mail last year and was sending me reports
of his success with the orac/CB both in this country and abroad. He
had sent the instructions to an African man named Gert Botha living
in Namibia who built a modified version of the device using locally
scavenged materials (read "Africa's First Cloudsbuster"
<http://educate-yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html>
{http://educate-yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html}and
then see Gert's Report
<http://educate-yourself.org/gertbothareportoct01.html>
{http://educate-yourself.org/gertbothareportoct01.html}). Initially,
Gert found that his Cloudbuster was having an effect on the
incessant sand storms causing them to constantly change direction,
but eventually he found that aiming the Cloudbuster south at an
angle of 30 degrees to the horizon forced the sandstorms to stop.
After being parked in this position for two months, his orac/CB
brought on torrential rains for the first time in years in one of
the driest regions of Africa.

Psychic Dames
Don gains many of his "insights" about his oracs and other devices
through dowsing with his wife, Carol Derry, and his daughter, Nora,
who both possess psychic ability, big time. His two psychic 'dames'
also keep him one step ahead of the Bad Guys. Don is on the road
most of the time and whenever the black op types try to move in on
him, he learns about it before they do! The Bad Guys have their
high tech advantages, but it seems the Universe takes care of its
own when you're trying to do the Right Thing. In Don's case, he's
been provided with exactly the sort of 'assistance' he needs (three
cheers for Carol and Nora!).

Your Weekend Project

Complete instructions to make your own orac/CB or "ChemBuster" are
included in this article. It will cost you about $150 US dollars if
you buy all of the materials new, but if you're a scrounger, you can
probably do it for the cost of the plastic resin. The instructions
were written by Don Croft with a little bit of editing by another
man who wished to remain anonymous. The pictures were mostly
supplied by Don, but Mr. Anonymous threw in one photo of his own
orac/CB breaking up chemtrails in the midwest, his neck of the
woods. Anyone with modest do-it-yourself skills can build these
devices, but be aware that an orac/CloudBuster is not a toy. It
directs orgone energy, both the good type and the harmful DOR type.

If you don't educate yourself about a Cloudbusters and handle this

thing carelessly, you could experience some discomfort, but not the
sort of DOR that Reich's Cloudbuster design could accumulate. Trevor
Constable told me first hand a story about the late Robert
McCullough, Reich's friend and assistant in the Arizona desert in
the 1950's. Dr Reich and Bob were running pioneering experiments
with Reich's Cloudbuster when Bob had allowed a big (functioning)
Cloudbuster to accidentally touch the side of his bare leg-which
instantly paralyzed his leg and caused him excruciating pain. It
took weeks to recover and Bob walked with a limp and had to use a
cane for the rest of his life. You need to remember to discharge an
active Cloudbuster before touching the pipes. Don recommends
touching the base of the unit after touching the pipes to discharge
any DOR energy. You could also lay the unit on its side on the
ground and remove the pipes with a rubber glove. Laying the pipes on
the bare earth should discharge them of any DOR.

So here's the edited reprint of Don's papers on Chemtrail Busting

and the complete instructions for making your own "Chembuster" .

You can also review an earlier version of Don's Cloudbuster

directions
<http://educate-yourself.org/CBconstructioninfo1feb02.html>
(http://educate-yourself.org/CBconstructioninfo1feb02.html) which he
had sent to me in August, 2001. It includes some interesting uses
for the CB not included in the directions given below. At the time,
Don indicated that you could get 5 double pointed quartz crystals
from "David" at * davdart@texas.net *for $7 including shipping, but
I don't know if that contact is still valid. Give it a try.

How to Build A Cloudbuster to Disperse Chemtrails

and Improve the Weather

By Don Croft

*Definition of a contrail*: A contrail occurs when a plane travels

at a high altitude (about 30,000 ft. or more) and compresses the air
into a water vapor or ice crystals through jet engines or the wing
tips pushing through the air. This trail disappears after anywhere
from a few seconds to 15 minutes, as the water vapor evaporates.

*Definition of a chemtrail*: The term "chemtrail" is a relatively

new word, which appeared in the last few years along with the
appearance of chemtrails. A chemtrail is very different from a
contrail. At first a chemtrail might look a bit like a contrail.
However, instead of disappearing like a contrail does, a chemtrail
just keeps spreading out and forming a hazy cloud bank. These trails
traverse the whole sky and stay for up to around five or even eight
hours. They have been known to turn what was originally a clear blue
sky into a grey haze. (Note: As of Nov 2001 there are already
several dozen cloudbusters in seven countries, so if you see
chemtrails that don't last anywhere near this long, there may
already be a cloudbuster in the area).

It is believed chemtrails are composed at least in part by an oil

based substance of unknown content that is actually being sprayed
from jets on populated areas. It has also been found that some
chemtrails contain red blood cells, aluminum, mycoplasma, viruses
and other unknown biological components. There are many reports of
increased diseases, especially respiratory ailments, in areas where
there are chemtrails.

Chemtrails are often seen to be sprayed by white planes with no

markings. Sometimes you will see these planes give off no contrail
at all, and immediately after the same kind of plane in the same
area will start to leave a thick chemtrail. At other times, distinct
short gaps in chemtrails have been photographed, as though the plane
ran out of chemicals and then had to start spraying with a new supply.

For information on Chemtrails see the sites listed at

http://www.carnicom.com/contrails.htm

*History of the Cloudbuster*

The Wilhelm Reich cloudbuster (CB) was well known for its ability to
create rain. But a problem existed with its continued use, in that
the deadly orgone energy that it absorbed could in fact hurt the
operator if it was not correctly "drained off". This "draining off"
of deadly orgone energy was accomplished by 1. Connecting the
cloudbuster to a body of running water (difficult) or 2. Connecting
the cloudbuster output to an orgone accumulator. However, the orgone
accumulator would soon become saturated with the deadly orgone
energy which in turn caused more problems for the operator. So the
cloudbuster, as good a technology as it is, has lain dormant for
many years.

The Cloudbuster Re-Invented

By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap,
portable and easy to build device that consistently destroys
Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The “chembuster” is the answer
to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original cloudbuster, the CB
changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT
become saturated or dangerous to the operator. You can build one
for about $150.

Join The Battle - Now!

It is human nature to sit on the sidelines and think that one person
cannot change the things that are happening to our country. You now
have no excuse for inaction. For a few dollars and a few hours of
your time YOU can make a difference.

A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly reduce the

effects of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all directions (90 mile
diameter) from the unit. If used with Slim Spurling’s environmental
tools, and a few extra crystals, the diameter can be increased to
about 120 miles in all directions.

With this device a mere few hundred concerned citizens can SHUT DOWN
the multi-billion dollar chemtrail program. The chembuster cannot do
any damage. It can only help and heal. Its up to you to join the
fight to save America.

Chembuster Construction Details

Cloudbuster Materials

Set pipes in bottom spacer

Middle Plywood Spacer

CLOUDBUSTER DIRECTIONS

BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets
from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets,
available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from
drywall contractors are fine. Leave the buckets on, as the handles
make it easier to move the finished cloudbuster.

COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1" copper pipes, 6' long, open at
one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the
bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping,
you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot
lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces.
You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.

CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quartz

crystal, about 2" long, into a .75” section of garden hose, (or use
electrical tape) then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper
end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after
the cap is glued on. I use 'Goop' glue. Tape, or solder around the
cap where it joins the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the
cap during casting. (Note) Another option is to add one citrine
gemstone to each pipe before adding the crystal, this smoothes the
CB’s energy and helps to transmute negative energies. However,
citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at
eliminating chemtrails.

METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop,

recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign
shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I use
aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine
particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite
as good as ones that will easily go through a ½” screen are okay.
There really is a wide margin of suitability! .
PLYWOOD: Template 1 - 3/4” exterior plywood is used to make the base
for the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around
a 2 1/2” radius circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2” apart on
centers. A flat, 1 1/4” auger bit drills a suitable hole for each
end cap.

Template 2 - Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the

bucket. Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers
under it to remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the
finished CB, just used to get the spacing for the pipes right during
construction. Cut the holes in this with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that
it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the pipes
in position while the second batch of resin hardens.
Template 3 - I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of
the pipes, 4” radius with 1 1/8” holes on the same 2 1/2” radius
circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each
other and fairly rigid.

Not to scale Widest circle is 9 1/8”

RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats) but

epoxy also works, as does envirotech resin from www.eti-usa.com
(this sets up very quickly, so you need to be proficient with it).
(If you are going to construct many of these units, try to purchase
your resin in 5 gallon buckets over the internet, possibly from a
surfboard or boat manufacturing supply company. Home depot gets $24
per gallon for resin )

On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the

bottom of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface
is uniform and flat. CAUTION: Resin fumes are flammable; use in a
warm, but well ventilated area.

The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one part
metal particles.
Put the base Template 1 onto that before it hardens, so that it just
touches the surface and doesn't sink in much. Pour a half gallon of
catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set into the
holes in the base template. Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of
metal particles in the same ratio as before. Note that the wood
Template 1 should not be pushed down to the bottom of the bucket
with the resin squishing over the top.

Carefully move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it is

snugly within the rim of the bucket. Put the top Template 3 onto the
top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel. After
the resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it aside.
This is only used during construction, as I mentioned.

You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two
stages if you want, up to within a half inch of the rim of the
bucket. Now it’s finished (wait until it hardens before you move
it. You will actually use about one gallon of metal shavings and 1
½ gal. Of resin.

A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY:

Cut six pipes, 12" long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them for
the base. Buy six coupler joints which allow a pipe to come into
them from both directions and stop at the middle. This allows you to
make the rest of the pipe assembly from three pipes, 10' long, cut
in half. The finished product leaves you with only one piece of
pipe, four feet long leftover.

When positioning the 12" pipes for pouring the second layer of mix,
temporarily tape the top ends of the 12" pipes so no metal particles
are dropped in them by mistake.
After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim plywood
piece down onto the pipes so that it fits into the rim of the bucket.

Put the spacers (soldered if desired), then the 5' pipes onto the
12" base pipes, then put the third (top) plywood piece onto the 5’
copper pipes.

The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top
plywood piece around until the pipes line up parallel. As you do
that, the rim plywood piece will move around. You need to do this
expeditiously, though not in a hurry, so that the resin doesn't
harden before you're done.

We experimented with 5' extensions to the pipes to increase the

range. It had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper
atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles. We also apparently
shut down the weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force
Base by leaving the extended cloudbuster pointing at the dead orgone
field above it for a week.

We found that we don't need to point it in any particular direction

in order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it's
left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the
cloudbuster (many miles). We just stand it on its bottom, pointing
straight up. We did once eliminate a belt of smog which was just off
the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so direction can be a
factor.

Cloudbusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days

for your cloudbuster to activate the environment enough to do this,
but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds of
leaving the UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within range of
the cloudbuster will also disperse, but more slowly. The ones that
are made up of solids take longer to dissipate, but we’ve found that
these only make up about 10% or so of the spewing episodes.

Dr. Reich’s cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation

since he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad orgone does
carry a charge which can quickly drain one’s life force away when
it’s concentrated in one spot. It's similar to a strong positively
charges static electrical field. When cloudcover is unproductive or
unbalanced (too much lightning, for instance, or too much rain) the
cloudbuster busts it up.

It also may help stop drought. Overall, it just balances the

weather, I think it sort of mediates between the ground and the
atmosphere somehow. The one in Namibia, Africa finally brought heavy
rain to the desert there. It happened 9/5/01, and continued for
several days. Gert, the fellow who made the cloudbuster and reported
the occurrence, told me that this had simply never happened in the
Namib desert before to the best of anyone's knowledge. It's arguably
the driest region on the planet.

WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong

unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after
that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a
friend of ours did recently.

Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be

 seen mainly as a springboard for further developments rather than
the last word.

SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try putting water on top of
the material in the bucket and/or hosing down the whole apparatus
daily. In freezing climates, cover the top of the six pipes so
water can’t freeze and shatter the crystals. The CB appears to
effect chemtrails equally well whether it’s placed indoors or out.
Up to seven crystals can be placed in each pipe to improve performance.

CB plowing through chemtrails in the midwest

Additional Information from Ken Adachi

Concering discharge of a CB. The origanl CB as built by Reich could

channel both positive orgone and negative DOR and DOR is the problem
when touching the pipes. Don Croft's modification for all practical
purposes eliminates 99% of the potential dangers of DOR , but he
does report that some people have gotten a headache by touching the
pipes of an active unit (meaning it's been set up outdoors for a few
days and pointing up) without grounding the energy by touching the
base of the unit where the orac is located.

Concerning rain making. You don't have to do anything special.

Simply set the unit up and give it a few days or a couple of weeks.
One technique found to work was to pour water onto the base of the
pipes (not into the pipes) and allow it to puddle on the top of the
orac (encased in resin within the bucket). Orgone has a tremendous
affinity for water and the presence of water on the orac seems to
stimulate the production of rain clouds.

Below is Don Croft's chat list for the chembuster CB, HHgs info,
etc. Very active site with many fascinating postings. You can read
all of the previously posted messages about the success others have
been having with Don's CB ref. breaking chemtrails and producing
rain, etc.. Maybe you could post it to the Energy 2000 chat list and
gain their attention faster than I.

cloudbuster newsgroup yahoo website

<http://cloudbusters@yahoogroups.com/>

Anyone can read the previously posted messages. If you want to join
and contribute to the chat, you have to agree to either be in the
process of building a CB or have already built one. He doesn't want
armchair 'experimenters' spouting off without hands-on experience. I
can understand that.

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All information posted on this web site is the opinion of the author
and is provided for educational purposes only. It is not to be
construed as medical advice. Only a licensed medical doctor can
legally offer medical advice in the United States. Consult the
 healer of your choice for medical care and advice.

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 Some additional notes and info from Graham Snook another cloudbuster
builder

graham snook <mailto:SBIGGEE@aol.com>

Here are some photos of cloud busters The following photograph of a

cloudbuster and is made of wood and plastic pipes, this is not my best
subject i can make things but putting it down on paper is a problem for
me, so here we go

They are 16 tubes 1"1/2 inch wide set in a wooden box with an
accumulator section at the bottom where the end has two pipes just fit
in the end, one pipe has a water pipe fitted the comes from the water
mains and runs when in use it works well and the pond is full of life
and i site around the pond for hours gives me a nice feeling as well as
busting clouds and moving weather fronts away, its not a good idea to
keep it on for long periods you can rewrite this if you wish i hope you
get the idea of this type of cloud buster.

This cloud buster is of metal construction and has three metal pipes
with the end sealed up and four slots cut in the pipe about four inch
from the end or so about 1 inch wide by 8 inch then you make the end
into a capacitor
Cut some thick plastic the stuff used under concrete you can get it from
the builders merchants, and then get some aluminium foil at the end wrap
a piece of plastic round to cover the slots that you have cut in the
ends then aluminium foil then plastic and keep going until you do this
about 20 time then wrap it in duct tape to keep it all together make
sure its tight the one in the photo can turn 360 degrees and move up or
down its also can change a weather front over 1000 miles the tubes are
insulated from the mount as well

A bit of a close up of the cloud busters if you need and more info let
me know

all the best graham snook <mailto:SBIGGEE@aol.com>

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