DIY Pure Sine Wave Inverter

instructables
DIY Cheap 1000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter (12V to 110V/220V)
by ASCAS
Car batteries for powering you home? Build a low cost 12V to 220V (DC-AC) Pure Sine Wave Inverter from scratch!
The project is based on the low cost EGS002 SPWM driver board module. The DIY inverter board can handle up to
1kW (depending the transformer size). Around $30 was spent to build this project from locally sourced parts.
W a t ch M y Full Yo uTube Tut o ria l:
//www.yout ube.com/embed/I8c5DLJgS3o
Fe a t ure s O f T his Pro je ct :
Transformer can be replaced to work with 110V/220V/230V outputs

Has output voltage feedback (constant AC voltage output)
Undistorted pure sine wave output (with load)
Selectable Output Frequency (60Hz/ 50Hz)
Current Protection
Voltage Protection
Temperature Protection
Cooling Fan Output
LCD Screen (V,I,Freq,Temp)
Modular Swappable Design
Ke y Po int s :
Powerplants use generators that generate a pure sinewave output. It's what you would nd from the
grid. All our AC appliances were originally designed to run on this waveform.
A few years back sine wave inverters were extremely expensive ($200-$1000).
As a result square wave and modi ed square wave were the common and a ordable options.
Square wave inverters are less e cient and can damage sensitive appliances.
Aside from being cheap and common, square wave inverters creates that obnoxious humming
noises in motors, transformers, mostly on everything you plug to it.
Theoretically, sine wave inverters are more e cient than square wave inverters depending on the
implementation quality.
T hing s To Im pro v e :
DIY Cheap 1000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter (12V to 110V/220V): Page 1
Part 2 of the video will show how to implement a single coil inductor for fast switching, replacing the
EI core design used in this project. I'll see if it yields a higher e ciency than the EI core design from
this tutorial.
Will update this tutorial for a more detailed bench test. I'm currently building a DC & AC Wattmeter
SD datalogger for monitoring the data for this project and my future power electronics project.
Will implement SMT components to make the board smaller
The next single coil inductor design is expected to yield a smaller form factor, conversion higher
e ciency and lower standby power consumption. The one on this project consumes 12W of power
without load (a bit mehhh)
The current board in this board is limited to a 20VDC input due to the MOSFET driver gate drive
source being tied to the Vcc and the 7805 regulator's input voltage limitation. I will recon gure the
board and replace the 7805 regulator with an XL7005A switching regulator and some linear
regulators for di erent rails for the inverter board to work with 80V power sources
(12V/24V/48V/72V).
D is cla im e r:
Be extra careful with this project as it produces a High Voltage - High Current output. The board was designed to
cater a 1kW transformer. Due to unavailability, I was only able to acquire a surplus 500W 12V-220V UPS Transformer.
As far as it goes I was only able to reach 400W with minimal sine wave distortion. Part 2 of the video tutorial will
show the troubleshooting process and connecting it to a bigger transformer. Part 3 will show the process behind
designing user speci c inverter using the EGS002 module and Part 4 on building a better inverter with a 48V input
for my o -grid solar panel setup.
Step 1: PARTS REQUIRED:
PART S REQ UIRED: - 10k Ohm Resistor (4x)
- EGS002 SPWM Inverter Driver Module - 100k Ohm Resistor (2x)
- IRF3205 or IRLB4132 MOSFETS (16x) - 470nF 25v Capacitor
- 12V to 220V (500W/1000W ) Transformer - 2.2uF +350v Capacitor
- TO-220 Isolation Set (16x) - 2.2uF 25v Capacitor
- TIP31C NPN Transistor - 10uF 25v Capacitor
- 7805 Regulator - 100uF 25v Capacitor
- 1N4007 Diode (8x) FO R HO M EBRE W PCB:

- Photopositive Presensitized PCB
- 10k Ohm NTC Thermistor
- Developing Solution (Sodium Hydroxide)
- 10k Ohm Multi-turn Trimmer
- Etchant (Ferric Chloride)
- 10 Ohm Resistor (4x)
- Hacksaw
- 2.2k Ohm Resistor
Step 2: Intro to the EGS002 Board
The EGS002 is a versatile $3 all-in-one solution for building Pure Sine Wave inverters. You can build low power to
high power inverter units out of it! Right out of the box, It is not an inverter just yet. You would have to build a few
components around it to make it into a functional inverter unit.
W hy It Is S o G o o d?
Decent high power commercial pure sine wave inverters are very expensive! They range from $120-$400. With the
EGS002 you can design all sorts of inverters with input voltage, output voltage and power ratings of your choice!
For as low as $20, depending on your specs and where you source your components.
W ha t ' s O n T he EGS0 0 2 B o a rd?
EG8 0 10 S O IC M icro co nt ro lle r - The EGS002 uses an EG8010 an ASIC (Application Speci c
Integrated Circuit) microcontroller chip designed to output SPWM logic signals for driving H-Bridge
inverters. The chip is also equipped with I/Os speci cally designed for closed loop voltage
monitoring, cut-o current monitoring, temperature monitoring and fan drive output. Unlike
Arduino based inverter project, the chip is preprogrammed and is ready to use.
Hig h Side & Lo w Side M O S FE T /IGBT D riv e r - The board also contains two IR2110S MOSFET
drivers for driving an All N-Channel H-bridge MOSFET arrangement for SPWM and polarity switching
to the transformer or inductor. This chip ensures that the low side and the high side MOSFETs
(speci cally) are fully saturated. This prevent power losses from on-resistance by supplying the gates
with their proper gate voltages to ensure the have the least on-resistance with respect to its specs.
O P- AM P Fo r Curre nt S e ns ing - The board has a LM393 OP-AMP to amplify the voltage from the
shunt resistor. The ampli ed voltage goes back to the EG8010's analog input as the chip uses it for
overcurrent protection
LCD Re a dy D is pla y O ut put - The EG8010 microcontroller has already been pre-programmed to
work with a proprietary LCD display. You can add a dollar to the $3 EGS002 unit to get the extra LCD
screen. This displays the output voltage, current, temperature and frequency mode.
Sing le LED Erro r D is pla y - There's one red LED on the board that would blink for a speci c
number of times to display errors for troubleshooting.
Stay tuned for the next video and Instructable tutorial as I won't delve much into the reverse engineering and
design process of building user speci c inverter board with the EGS002 on this tutorial.
Step 3: EGS002 & EG8010 Datasheet Details
Will upload a separate tutorial for the EGS002 details. Stay tuned!
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FGK/S9ZE/KGXP6I90/FGKS9ZEKGXP6I90.pdf
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FOB/OO44/KGXP6I91/FOBOO44KGXP6I91.pdf
Step 4: EGS002 Setup (60Hz & 50Hz Selection)
At the rear upper left side of the EGS002, there is a number of solder pad jumpers for con guring speci c board
parameters. You can refer to the photo above for the table of possible settings. For beginner hobbyists who nd the
datasheet instructions confusing, here's a simpli ed instruction below
Jum pe r S e t t ing De t a ile d Ins t ruct io ns :
S e t AC Fre que ncy - Depending on which country or continent you live in, appliance AC frequency
would vary. For example: In the Philippines and America it is 60Hz in India, China and Europe it is
50Hz. Try to research on your country's appliance frequency before setting this. By default it is set to
50Hz.
1. Set To 60Hz - Solder JP1 and desolder JP5.
2. Set To 50 Hz - Solder JP5 and desolder JP1.
LCD B a cklig ht - If you have the EGS002 + LCD combo package, you can disable the LED backlight
of the LCD screen if you want to save extra power. You can also solder a switch across JP9 if you want
to have the freedom to turn it on and o anytime. This is set to on by default.
1. Enable LCD Backlight - Solder JP9.
2. Disable LCD Backlight - Desolder JP9.
S o f t St a rt M o de - Soft start mode is a nice feature to prevent a surge of power draw once you
connect the DC power source to the inverter while a load is attached. With soft start mode, the
voltage will slowly increase to your set output voltage for 3 seconds (ex: 0V-220V in 3 seconds). This
also prevents huge sparks when connecting your inverter to your battery. If you are planning to
build a UPS circuit, you will have to disable it.
1. Enable 3s Soft Start - Solder JP2 together and desolder JP6.
2. Disable Soft Start - Solder JP6 together and desolder JP2.
De a dt im e - Deadtime is the time in seconds for the MOSFETs to turn o before switching phases.
This is done to prevent cross-conduction (quick short) across the half-bridge MOSFET (vertical
MOSFET pair) during high speed switching of he H-Bridge setup. 300ns seems ne for most setups, a
slower deadtime of 1.5us must be used for high gate capacitance MOSFETs. I suggest to leave these
jumpers by default.
1. 300ns Deadtime - Desolder JP3 and JP4 then solder JP7 and JP8.
2. 500ns Deadtime - Desolder JP4 and JP7 then solder JP3 and JP8.
3. 1.0us Deadtime - Desolder JP3 and JP8 then solder JP4 and JP7.
4. 1.5us Deadtime - Desolder JP7 and JP8 then solder JP3 and JP4
Step 5: Schematics
As discussed on the video, the left block of schematic voltage for the inverter is limited to the max gate
refers to what's on the EGS002 board, and the one on voltage of your MOSFET (typically 20v) and your 5V
the right is the circuit that we would have to build in regulator's max input voltage (35v for 7805). I'll post a
order to build a fully functional inverter. I barely another tutorial soon for higher input voltage
made adjustments for this one since the datasheet inverter systems (24v/48v/72v). I also connected 4
sample schematic would serve well for a 16 MOSFET MOSFETs in parallel for each of the 4 MOSFETs used in
con guration too. the H-Bridge setup, giving a total of 16 MOSFETS. This
was done to decrease the on-resistance of the system
M y Tw e a ks Fro m T he Da t a s he e t S a m ple to accommodate more powerful transformers (+1kw
S che m a t ic: at 12v). You can choose to leave some MOSFET slots
blank for 4/8/12 MOSFET arrangements. A 7805
I binded the MOSFET Drain pins, 12v cooling fan and regulator on the other hand was connected to the 12V
12v pin of the EGS002 as my Vcc (input power source). Vcc line to supply a constant 5V to 5V pin of the
Take note that the 12v pin of the EGS002 is what EGS002 (used for the logic components).
supplies the IR2110S driver controlled outputs for
your MOSFETs gates. This means the maximum input
Step 6: PCB Design (Build or Buy)
You may choose to fabricate your own homebrew PCB or choose to get it professionally done by a PCB fabrication
service like PCBway.
Ho m e bre w PCB:
//www.yout ube.com/embed/7wAer7a3t U4
For this project, I decided to do a homebrew double sided PCB so that the old school hobbyists can enjoy the
tedious process (LOL). Instead of toner transfer, I used the Photosensitized PCB fabrication method, similar to what
factories use. It is inkjet friendly unlike toner transfer fabrication. If you are new to photosensitized PCBs, you can
watch my other detailed video tutorial above. You can download the printable PDF les for the rendered PCB
artwork down below. You can use it for all homebrew PCB, methods.
O rde r M y Uplo a de d PCB De s ig n Fro m PCBw a y :
You can opt to have your PCBs professionally done by a PCB fabrication service. This will save you time from the
long homebrew PCB fabrication process. The gerber les have also been included on my zip le. You can easily order
the PCBs from PCBway without going through the gerber upload process, just click the links below. Let me know if
the design has problems. I have only tested it on my homebrew PCB.
1. M a in Inv e rt e r B o a rd (https://bit.ly/3mBFWTv)
2. Filt e r Bre a ko ut B o a rd (https://bit.ly/31QBJU2)
File Pa cka g e : Schematic, PCB & Documentation Files Zip Download
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FZ3/02X1/KGXP5N48/FZ302X1KGXP5N48.pdf
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F2J/W9L4/KGXP5N49/F2JW9L4KGXP5N49.pdf
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FYR/YZTZ/KGXP5N4A/FYRYZTZKGXP5N4A.pdf
Step 7: PCB Cutting
Use your PCB printouts as a stencil and use a hacksaw to cut your PCB according to the printout's boarder.
Step 8: Photo Exposure
Peel your photosensitized PCB's light protective lm.

If you aren't using transparency lm for your PCB
layout, you can use some baby oil to to make your After the photo exposure process, I submerged my
paper printout translucent, this would allow the light photo exposed PCB on my developing solution
through the paper to pass through. I then exposed it (provided with photosensitized PCB packs). The
to my DIY UV Exposure box for 7 minutes for photo- chemical used is lye or sodium hydroxide mixed with
developing. I made a tutorial for white LED Strip water. The line mask traces would eventually appear.
version of it. Feel free to watch the video below. If
you're using LED strips or uorescent tubes, it will
take around 10-15 minutes of exposure time.
//www.yout ube.com/embed/QNTBKBjc-XE
Step 9: Etching
I grabbed my bottle of ferric chloride etchant and

submerged the photo developed PCB on my DIY
etching machine lled with ferric chloride. This would save you time from shaking your vat of
etchant. It makes the etching process less tedious and
He re ' s A Tut o ria l Fo r Building An Et ching a lot faster.
M a chine :
//www.yout ube.com/embed/DX881LdzVTU
Step 10: Paint Removal
Removing the remaining paint is important. If left on the board, it would give you a really hard time in soldering
later on.
Step 11: Drilling
I used my mini drill and a 0.8mm bit for the components. On the other hand, I used my cordless drill and a 3mm
drill bit for the high-power vias, through holes and screw mounts.
Step 12: Soldering Makeshift Through Holes
One of the limitations of homebrew PCBs are the lack of conductive through holes and vias. I designed the PCB to
work with improvised through holes. Just strip a Guage 12 solid wire and solder it to link the high current lines from
each side.
Step 13: Tinning Lines for Extra Power
You can tin the traces with solder to cater more current and to prevent copper oxidation in the future.
Step 14: Solder Both Sides
As stated from the previous step, homebrew PCBs do not have through holes. Be sure to solder the component's
legs from both the top and bottom copper pads.
Step 15: Mark & Drill Heatsink Holes
Align your heatsink to the MOSFETs and use your marker. Use your drill and 3mm bit to drill holes on it.
Step 16: Add MOSFET Isolation
The MOSFETs I'm using comes in a TO-220 package. The metal tab of the MOSFET is technically tied to its drain pin.
Electrical isolation must be applied to avoid conduction between the other sets of MOSFETs. I usually leave the
upper MOSFETs from the H-Bridge unisolated as they share a common drain pin (Vcc).
1. Add a some thermal paste

2. Apply the isolation pad (mica/ berglass)
3. Add thermal paste
4. Add plastic bushing (screw isolation)
5. Force screw your bolts to the heatsink
Step 17: Heatsink Ductape Insulation
Homebrew PCBs also lack solder mask. Grab some ductape and insulate the bottom part of your heatsink to
prevent it from shorting the copper traces from the top layer of your PCB.
Step 18: Makeshift Shunt Resistor
A shunt resistor is used in the circuit for current sensing and overcurrent protection. Instead of using those bulky
high power resistors, you can use a solid wire of copper as a makeshift low-pro le shunt resistor. I stripped a Guage
12 solid wire, cut it to 60mm, bent it then soldered it to the board.
Step 19: Add a Tank Capacitor to VCC
I added a 3,300uF 25V tank capacitor across the Ground and +12VDC power input to increase stability.
Step 20: Add the Temperature Sensor & Fan
A 10k Ohm NTC sensor must be connected to the pads on the board for temperature monitoring. I haven't tried
omitting the NTC, but if you plan to omit the temperature sensor due to unavailability, just hook a 10k Ohm resistor
across it. On the other hand, the inverter would still work with or without the 12V cooling fan.
Step 21: Connect the LCD Display
When you buy the EGS002 + LCD combo, you get a 7 pin wafer connector. Just connect the LCD's pins to the EGS002
LCD pin output accordingly. There are labels on both the LCD and EGS002 board on where to connect it.
Step 22: Solder Input & Transformer Wires
Solder the transformer wires to the board and some Guage 8-12 wires to the power input as well. You can add some
XT60 or XT90 connectors for detachability.
Step 23: Connect the Filter Circuit
A lter capacitor must be added to smoothen the rough and spikey SPWM output from the transformer. Based on
the datasheet, a simple 2.2uF +350v (non polarized) capacitor should work. I made a simple breakout board for it,
having three screw terminals connected in parallels to it. A pair of wires goes to the transformer's HV output,
another pair to the outlet and another pair back to the feedback input of the main inverter board.
Step 24: With Vs. Without Filter
Here's what the waveforms look like with and without the capacitor.
Step 25: Voltage Output Calibration
Before using the inverter with appliances, be sure to calibrate the output voltage. The assembled inverter project,
comes with output voltage feedback regulation. This means, the user can set a speci c voltage output and the
inverter will try it's best to maintain that set output voltage, even when the voltage drops as the battery (power
source) starts to drain. There's a limit to this, if your inverter can no longer maintain the set output voltage, the
error LED will blink and the inverter would automatically shut down.
1. Connect a voltmeter to the ltered AC output

2. Set your voltmeter to the AC range
3. Power your inverter
4. Turn the multiturn trimmer resistor until you reach your target voltage (220V/230V)
Step 26: Load Testing
A 3S6P 18650 Lithium-ion battery pack was connected as the power source during the load testing. I chose li-ion for
the test since each cell can dump 20A or current (120A in total). As far as it goes, I was only able to reach around
400W from the output with a clean output waveform. The inverter shuts down by itself as I go above.
Pa rt 2 o f t he v ide o w ill s ho w t he t ro uble s ho o t ing pro ce s s .

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instructables

DIY Cheap 1000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter (12V to 110V/220V)

W a t ch M y Full Yo uTube Tut o ria l:

Fe a t ure s O f T his Pro je ct :

Transformer can be replaced to work with 110V/220V/230V outputs

PART S REQ UIRED: - 10k Ohm Resistor (4x)

- EGS002 SPWM Inverter Driver Module - 100k Ohm Resistor (2x)

- IRF3205 or IRLB4132 MOSFETS (16x) - 470nF 25v Capacitor

- 12V to 220V (500W/1000W ) Transformer - 2.2uF +350v Capacitor

- TO-220 Isolation Set (16x) - 2.2uF 25v Capacitor

- TIP31C NPN Transistor - 10uF 25v Capacitor

- 7805 Regulator - 100uF 25v Capacitor

- 1N4007 Diode (8x) FO R HO M EBRE W PCB:

W ha t ' s O n T he EGS0 0 2 B o a rd?

Step 3: EGS002 & EG8010 Datasheet Details

Step 4: EGS002 Setup (60Hz & 50Hz Selection)

Jum pe r S e t t ing De t a ile d Ins t ruct io ns :

O rde r M y Uplo a de d PCB De s ig n Fro m PCBw a y :

Step 7: PCB Cutting

Step 8: Photo Exposure

Peel your photosensitized PCB's light protective lm.

I grabbed my bottle of ferric chloride etchant and

Step 11: Drilling

Step 14: Solder Both Sides

Step 16: Add MOSFET Isolation

1. Add a some thermal paste

Step 19: Add a Tank Capacitor to VCC

Step 21: Connect the LCD Display

Step 23: Connect the Filter Circuit

1. Connect a voltmeter to the ltered AC output

Pa rt 2 o f t he v ide o w ill s ho w t he t ro uble s ho o t ing pro ce s s .

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