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Builder Basics
Vol. 1

FSPDF045
©2020 FineScale Modeler
35 tips, tools, &
techniques
you need
More than three decades of modeling know-how /// BY FSM STAFF

A
fter 35 years, FSM has learned a few things and passed many of them on to
you. We’ve collected some of the best tools, techniques, and tips that should
be at every workbench, and present them here in no particular order. Many
come from the collective wisdom of our staff, contributors, and readers. Narrowing
the list to 35 meant leaving out some, and there are probably others we didn’t think
to include. (Apparently paint fumes can be detrimental to memory.) If you read this
and think we omitted something important, or if there’s a tool you use all the time
that we didn’t mention, let us know. Email your ideas to editor@FineScale.com.

Sanding sticks
You can never have too
many sanding sticks!
Professional results come
from smooth seams with-
out gaps or a hint of extra
Cotton swabs plastic around the edge.
Absorbent and precise, these medicine cabinet goodies are perfect for cleanup and more. Keep Compared to sandpaper,
them handy when working with putty and glue to wipe away excess without resorting to using sticks give you more con-
your shirttail. Or tip them in thinner to erode a little paint during weathering and finishing. trol and cushion your
Wrap the end with a thin strip of sandpaper to smooth difficult corners. Swabs are also crucial hardworking hands. Stock
when cleaning your airbrush. You can buy them by the hundreds at drug stores, but look for pre- up on a variety of grits.
cise shapes at medical supply outlets. Just remember, you can shove them inside a gear bay or air- (The higher the number,
brush — but don’t insert them in your ear. the finer the grit.)

20  FineScale Modeler  November 2017

Pin vise
Think of this as a miniature hand-powered drill. You can usually purchase a set that includes the handle and several bits in various
sizes. More can be had in a bit index. You’ll use it to make locator holes for antennas and rigging, bore out gun barrels, and drill
holes in plastic, soft metal, and wood.

Masking tape Clothespins

Adding color to your model would be impossible without this stuff.
Use it to protect what you don’t want to be painted and to produce
clean lines. If you suspect it might lift an underlying color, try press-
ing a piece against an article of clothing, your hand, or a piece of
glass to reduce the tack before placing it on the model.
Head to the laundry room for this modeling necessity.
These cheap clamps squeeze together thin parts as glue
or cement dries. For more versatility, disassemble and
reverse the wooden claws to create a more precise
opening with pointed tips.

Motor tool
If you’re planning major modifications, such as revamping a ship hull or airplane fuselage, you’ll want to add a motor tool to your
arsenal — excess plastic fears this rotating weapon. Interchangeable heads including sanding drums, buffing wheels, grinders of vari-
ous shapes, cutting burrs (show above), and cut-off wheels make this a versatile tool. Wear eye and respiratory protection.

www.FineScale.com 21
 Toothpicks
Use these tiny tools to apply
tiny amounts of product to
tiny parts — paint, glue,
cement, and putty can be
handled precisely with this
sturdy point. They can also
be used to position decals,
stir paint, and hold small
Magnifying eyewear parts. Word to the wise:
Not just a fashion accessory, these google-eyed glasses keep the tiny — but important — Round toothpicks are stur-
details of a model in focus. The magnification allows you to clip, place, and glue microscopic dier and more precise than
pieces with ease, and the end results will be visiblly improved. their flat cousins.

Airbrush
A splurge, definitely, but worth every cent — it’s
precision painting at your fingertips. Imagine no
more drippy spray-can paint and the end of pesky
brush marks, both replaced by smooth, even coats.
Choose from single- or double-action brushes with
a variety of paint-feed options.
Putty
There are three basic types of putty to choose from: solvent, water-based,
and two-part epoxy. They all have unique consistencies, and some smell
worse than others. Water-based putties are great for small gaps and can
be smoothed with a damp cotton swab or finger. Try solvent-based putty
for larger gaps, but beware of shrinkage as it dries. Epoxy putty holds its
shape, so it’s perfect for adding layers and reshaping models.

Hobby knife
This multipur-
pose essential
comes in handy
throughout the
building process
for cutting, trim-
ming, and shav-
ing. Blades of
various shapes
and sizes can be
fitted to universal
handles to cut
parts from sprues,
scribe panel lines
in plastic, shape
styrene and putty,
and cut out
decals. Keep ban-
dages nearby to
staunch inevita-
ble wounds; the
best blades are
sharp, and blood
does nothing to
improve models.

22  FineScale Modeler  November 2017

Silly Putty
masking
In the serious
search for the
perfect mask, it’s
hard to beat Silly
Putty. The toy
goo can be easily
manipulated,
making it espe-
cially good for
curves and irreg-
ular camouflage.
It sticks pretty
well to plastic
without leaving a
residue, settles
into details and
panel lines, pro-
duces a sharp
painted edge,
and is reusable.
Buy your own:
It’s really not
right to take it
from a kid.

Respirator mask Vino for modeling

All paint fumes and no breathing
protection make modelers a loopy,
hacking lot. Keep your health
intact with a high-quality respira-
tor when airbrushing and you’ll be
building for years to come.
Who says alcohol and modeling don’t mix? Check out the many useful parts from wine
bottles. The cork, or sections of it, can become a paint stand: Stick toothpicks or pins
into the soft material and attach small parts. Some bottles have lead foil around the neck
that can be shaped into tarps, bedrolls, flags, and other items. Metal caps can be used for
mixing paints, putties, or glues. Champagne and other effervescent wines have a fine
wire retainer that can be disassembled for many uses. Cincin!

Tweezers
When your fingers can’t reach inside a model or you can’t hang onto rigging wire, it’s time to reach for tweezers. Choose the correct
shape for the job. Pointed tips hold microscopic details when even your pinky finger would be considered gargantuan in comparison.
You’ll want the flat-tipped variety when picking up and maneuvering decals so as not to tear them. When you want to be sure the
part stays in the jaws, reach for the crosslocking variety.

www.FineScale.com 23
 The jig is up
Duct-tape white
sheet styrene to the
underside of a sheet
of glass. With the
glass side up, tape
basswood scraps
and blocks to the
surface to support
the model you’re
working on. No
matter what you
are working on, this
jig can easily be
adjusted to keep
everything square
— and it’s portable.
It can be rotated to
check assemblies
Buff for proper paint coverage from all angles.
It can be tempting to apply an exterior color in one thick coat. It’s easy and fast — but it produces hor- Alternatively,
rible results. Instead, apply paint in thin coats, letting each one dry fully. After each coat has dried, take a use Lego blocks to
worn, soft T-shirt and gently buff the paint. This removes any dust or hair that landed on your model construct simple-
during painting, and the buffing produces a slight sheen in the finish that makes it less susceptible to to-modify assembly
fingernail scratches. Also, buffing helps prevent paint buildup in tight corners. jigs.

From the mouths of babes New-millennium modeling

Baby-food applesauce containers make Clear space on your workbench for a laptop or tablet to keep photos and infor-
great, cheap parts holders — and the mation at your fingertips. Organize each subject into individual folders and
applesauce ain’t bad, either. you’ll save hours that you once spent looking for that one specifc picture.

Pre-and post-shading
Few modeling techniques have garnered
as much controversy as shading before or
after the main colors are on the model.
Increasingly popular on contest tables and
in the modeling press, pre- and post-
shading have triggered conversations
about realism versus artistry. Both seek to
replicate the play of light and add visual
interest to monochromatic finishes.
Pre-shading can be as simple as paint-
ing black or another dark color along
panel lines or in recesses. Or it can involve
painting various sections or panels con-
trasting shades. The ultimate expression of
pre-shading is the current trend of using
black underneath a vehicle and white top-
side. No matter the method, the contrast-
ing base coat alters subsequent layers.
Post-shading relies upon lighter and
darker shades of the base colors to pro-
duce similar effects. Thin layers of pro-
gressively lighter colors airbrushed into
panels is one approach. Color modulation
transfers the idea to the entire model with
the application of lighter shades higher
on the model, sometimes panel by panel.

24  FineScale Modeler  November 2017

A different angle
To check alignment of
long lines, such as cheat
lines or boot stripes, hold
the model upside down
and sight from ahead or
astern. Misalignments Brush painting
seem to stand out better Airbrushing is the norm for finishing models these days, but there’s no getting away from hand-
that way — what looks brushing. It’s essential for painting details and figures — and there are some modelers who paint
straight when the model entire models by hand. It can be hard to master, but a few tricks make it easier. Before touching
is right-side up can look the paint, dip the brush in thinner appropriate for the type of paint you are using; this prevents
entirely different when paint from drying in the bristles. Apply paint in smooth, even strokes to minimize brush strokes.
it’s inverted. Works for And always clean the brush immediately after painting, re-forming its tip and standing it upright
decals, too. to dry. Treat your brushes well and they’ll always deliver a finish you can be proud of.

Stretching sprue A prime directive

We don’t know the name of the genius who thought to combine sprue and flame, It’s a hobby! Don’t take it too seriously. If
but millions of models have been detailed with what is otherwise scrap to be you’ve spent three days researching whether
tossed or recycled. The method is simple: Hold a piece of plastic tree over a can- that rivet should be 2mm or 3mm from that
dle. (The diameter isn’t critical, but it should be long enough to hold onto without other rivet, and you still haven’t come up
burning your fingers), and when the plastic begins to bend, grab both ends and with a definitive answer, chances are, no one
pull them steadily apart as you remove the plastic from the heat. The result should else will know whether it’s right or wrong.
be a thin strand of plastic with endless applications, including rigging ships and Mind you, if you have spent three days on
biplanes, aircraft and vehicle antennas, weld seams, and filling gaps. that, you really ought to get out more.

Flowing in
liquid cement
After years of
struggling with
the stringy night-
mare that is tube
cement, discover-
ing that you can
join parts by
holding them
together and
touching a brush
loaded with liq-
uid cement to the
seam is nothing
short of miracu-
lous. Neat joins
and no mess …
unless your finger
crosses the join
and thin solvent
leeches between
your skin and the
surface.

www.FineScale.com 25
 Circle
templates
Building tanks
brings with it the
joy of painting
road wheels — so
many road wheels.
Circle tem-
plates used for
technical drawing
make the job a
snap. First, paint
the wheels a dark
gray or tire color.
Then, center the
opening on the
template that
matches the part
over the wheel
and airbrush the
camouflage color.
Place tape over
the neighboring
openings to pre-
vent overspray.

Sludge wash Adding LEDs

Washes that add shadows and depth to recesses are
mixed from artist’s oils and turpentine. Acrylic washes
didn’t stick until somebody discovered that adding a
little dish soap to the mix broke the liquid’s surface
tension. Slather the mix on, let it dry, and then remove
excess with a damp cloth to leave the dark paint in
panel lines.
What was once almost exclusively the province of science fiction
modelers, lighting models has gained a following with aircraft, car,
and even armor modelers, thanks to the profusion of inexpensive
miniature LEDs in the last 15 years. It’s even possible to light a
spaceship or aircraft with a $7 string of battery-powered decorative
lights from a party-supply store. Ready-to-use and modular circuits
have made special effects and animation easier.

Painting wheels
and tires
After airbrushing
wheel hubs, you can
paint tires with a
paintbrush: First,
using very thin black
paint, touch the
brush to the hub or
Powders and pigments wheel rim. Capillary
As Shep Paine said in How to Build Dioramas, “Nothing duplicates dust so perfectly as pastels, and action will draw the
nothing is so simple.” Artist’s pastel chalks ground on sandpaper and applied with a brush have been thin paint around it.
joined in recent years by purpose-made powdered pigments with environment-specific shades like Once that dries,
Russian earth and rubble, and often a binder that helps keep them on the model. Combining them hand-brush the rest
with fixers, solvents, sand, plaster, and static grass produces all kinds of textures and effects. of the tire.

26  FineScale Modeler  November 2017

Hairspray weathering
Personal-care products, such
as emery boards, tweezers, and
toothpicks, have long had a
place on workbenches. But
when FSM was young, it
would have been unheard of
for modelers to have a can of
hairspray at hand. Turns out,
the stuff that supported so
many hairdos in the ’60s works
great as a paint-release agent,
and it’s perfect for producing
realistically worn camouflage.
After painting a model —
green on a Soviet T-34, for
example — spray two or three
generous layers of hairspray.
Then apply an acrylic overcoat,
wait 20-30 minutes and attack
the just-applied paint with
brushes and water. The results
are stunning.

Dipping canopies for clarity As clean as before

FSM’s first mention of using Future, now known as Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface To keep workbench and spray
Finish (PFM) was in a March 1995 story about canopies by Rodney Williams. The booths clean, cover them with plas-
impact of the glossy acrylic floor finish on the hobby is impossible to understate; nearly tic food wrap such as Glad Press ’n
every aircraft and car modeler mentions using it on almost every model to give the clear Seal. It sticks to itself and to
parts extra shine. It’s a simple process that can make the cab or cockpit, arguably the smooth surfaces, often without
face of the vehicle, look better. Submerge the part in a container of PFM, then slowly tape. When you finish a project,
remove it, allowing the liquid to flow down the surface and off the piece. After dragging take up the wrap and your work
the edges across a paper towel to blot away excess, put it under cover to dry. Two days area be as clean as it was before —
later, the windows will be clearer. and ready for the next model.

Quick paint
removal
Plastic parts stick
together better when
they are free of paint.
The easiest way to clean
paint from attachment
points is to wipe it off
with liquid styrene
cement (Testors works
well). Using a micro
brush, apply just a little
cement, wipe off the
brush, then use it to
wipe away paint. Keep
the quantities small and
repeat as needed. When
the paint’s off, join the
parts. You may not need
to, but you can flow a Hot decals
little more cement into When decal solvents aren’t enough, turn up the heat to settle decals over shapes. After sliding the
the join and you will decal into position and blotting excess water with a cotton swab, train a hairdryer on the spot and
have a good bond. watch the magic happen — in no time the decal will settle tightly on the surface. FSM

www.FineScale.com 27
BUILDER BASICS
By Mark Hembree

Parts prep 101 A model is only as

good as its pieces

Eduard’s 1/48 scale X-1 Mach Buster

is not a complex build. Proper parts
preparation and basic techniques will
easily yield a good-looking model.

G
reat models often exhibit great skills. Not many can scratchbuild a
.50-caliber ammo belt in 1/48 scale and make it look good.
But, more often, great models are based on a consistent applica-
tion of good, basic techniques easily within reach of beginners and interme-
diates as well. And that begins with taking time to prepare each part:
removing flash (excess plastic) and mold seams, filling ejector-pin marks,
smoothing rough edges, and making sure the part is clean before you attach
it so glue and paint adhere as they should.
So, to build better models, the best place to begin — as usual, for almost
everything — is at the beginning. Start by washing all the parts in warm,
soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and let them air-dry.
Now, let’s prep those parts!

Mold line

1 2 3
Don’t twist parts off the sprue. Clip as close as Mold lines are usually easily removed by For thicker sprue attachments and for
you can without damaging the part. Xuron dragging a hobby knife across them. Be careful prominent parts (like wingtips), a fine saw may
sprue cutters are available from FSM: Visit not to take a divot or damage the part; sand be better for precisely parting a piece from the
Kalmbachhobbystore.com/Modeling Tools. and smooth if necessary. sprue and avoiding damage.

40  FineScale Modeler  October 2017

 Pour stub
4 5
Cut photo-etched parts loose with a hobby knife (not your good Resin parts often are attached to a pour stub. A fine saw (mine is from
clippers). Clip as closely as you can, but be careful — they are naturally UMM-USA) is the best way to detach the stub.
springy and elusive. For tiny parts, I leave the fret in the bag and cut
through the plastic so when they come loose, they’re still in the bag.

6 7
Trying to avoid marring the tread on the tire, I carefully trim excess with … before finally smoothing with a few swipes of a sanding stick.
a hobby knife … Squadron has handy sticks comprising three grades of grit, sufficient for
all but the finest finishing.

8 9
After the resin castings are cut loose and smoothed, soak them in A fine saw is the best way to detach clear parts from a sprue. Clippers
Westley’s Bleche-Wite to remove oils and casting residue that can may stretch the plastic, and a stress mark in clear plastic is impossible to
hinder paint and adhesives. repair or remove. FSM

www.FineScale.com 41
BUILDER BASICS
Mark Hembree

Painting
wheels and tires
… …
nd co
m
ou es
ar ar
es ou
t go nd
ha
W

K
nowing the FSM staff to be relentless punsters, I lead off this article with a
growing sense of tread and hopes that I can get things rolling before the topic
gets tired.
In the regular rotation of our “Builder Basics,” we align ourselves with beginners and
intermediate modelers to be sure we are not so inflated with expertise that we motor
past essential techniques. More-accomplished modelers may consider the subject of
painting wheels beneath them — exactly where wheels should be, generally speaking.
Models have as many different types of wheels and tires as there are ways to paint
them. I’ve tried to track techniques that will apply to most of them, and you may find
ideas here that will pump up one of your projects — extra mileage, as it were.

More at www.FineScale.com
Visit www.FineScale.com/how-to for more modeling basics and not-so-basics.

50  FineScale Modeler  July 2018

 1 2 3
If your kit provides wheels in halves, you’ll But not in this case: Simple sanding smooths Paint the hub first: I want a desert-weathered
have a seam. Sanding it smooth can the seams in the tires of Tamiya’s 1/35 scale look to show bared metal, so I begin with a
sometimes require scribing to restore a tread Schwerer Panzerspähwagen, which I plan to coat of Testors steel enamel. Allow drying time
pattern. place in North Africa. after this and all following steps.

4 5 6
Next, I douse the hub with water and sprinkle Airbrushing over the salt through a circle After painting the hub (Tamiya wooden deck
on a little salt. No salt on the tire — just the template (available at art or craft stores) makes tan, XF-78) and letting it dry, rubbing the salt
wheel. quick work of painting hubs — great when off exposes the steel underneath. Then, with
there’s eight, like on this SdKfz 232. just a touch, a flat black wash flows around the
rim and edges it neatly.

7 8 9
After masking the hub, I am ready to paint the Pulling the mask off may lift a little paint and A dark wash — I used Winsor & Newton burnt
tires flat black. Note the black edge around the expose a little more steel, and that’s OK. umber artist’s oil cut with odorless paint
rim is already in place — easy! thinner — will deepen details on the wheel.
Keep it off the tire.

10 11
I shaved pastel chalks to make a desert- … that I applied to hub and tire with a fluffy
colored powder … brush. I like flat black for tires because it grabs
the pastel powder, which also moderates the
bright steel on the hub. The tire at left, waiting
its turn, shows the difference.
12
Corrections are easy: If you overdo the powder,
knock it back off with an old, stiff brush. I don’t
apply a finish coat; I want it to look dusty. You’ll
find all these techniques easy to gauge — no
pressure! FSM

www.FineScale.com 51
BUILDER BASICS
By Aaron Skinner

FILLING GAPS
with
super
glue
The powerful adhesive
is also great for
eliminating voids
BY AARON SKINNER

S
uper glue (known formally as cyanoacrylate, or CA, glue) is a multipurpose mod- Super glue is available in three basic
eling adhesive essential for joining nonplastic materials, such as resin and photo- viscosities — thin, medium, and thick —
etch, where solvent glues won’t work. Some builders even use super glue in place that take progressively longer to set. Thin
of conventional model glue for assembly. glue dries within a few seconds, whereas the
But super glue also is a terrific and versatile filler that can quickly eliminate thick stuff can take up to a minute.
most seams. Unlike old-school modeling putties which can take hours to cure, super
glue sets within minutes — or instantly, with the help of accelerator. Plus, super glue
dries at least as hard as plastic, so it can be scribed; putty has a tendency to chip at the
edge of a scribed line. That hardness also means it accepts paint like plastic, so filled
areas completely disappear.
Here are a few tips and tricks for using super glue as a filler.

1 2
For most filling, I use medium-viscosity super glue. Squeeze a little onto A round toothpick works perfectly to apply the glue. After breaking off a
a disposable palette like a coffee lid and replace the cap immediately. tip, I split the shaft about 1/16 inch with a hobby knife.

52  FineScale Modeler  March 2018

 3 4
For fine gaps that should remain panel lines, like the wing root on Large gaps and those in areas that should be solid, such as the joins
Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale Beaufighter, I touch the applicator to the seam under the Beaufighter that cross the flaps, require more glue. I let it flow
and let glue flow into it. Done right, it may not need sanding. across a little of the surface on either side of the join for easier blending.

5 6
To speed setting, I use accelerator. Dip a micro brush in the thin liquid After blotting away accelerator, I immediately sand the filler. It sands
and touch it to the surface above the join so it runs into the glue. If you easily now; but if you wait too long, the glue becomes extremely hard
touch it directly to the glue, it will set in the brush. and difficult to remove without damaging the surrounding plastic.

7 8
The joint is blended when the glue and plastic appear uniformly dull; Super glue is perfect for filling pinholes in resin, like these on the road
unsanded glue is shiny. To restore the recessed edge of the flap that was wheel of an APC kit. The glue flows into the holes and naturally levels
partially filled, I draw a razor saw or scriber along the line. off. Larger voids may need a second application.

9 10
For larger gaps, sprinkle baking soda or Deluxe Materials Rocket Powder Super glue is clear, so it can be difficult to see not only where you are
into the gap before or after glue is applied. In addition to speeding applying it but where you’ve sanded. One solution is to add a little
drying, these additives add bulk to the cement. powdered graphite to color the adhesive. FSM

www.FineScale.com 53
 REMOVING
CANOPY MOLD SEAMS
How to rub out a necessary evil
BY RAÚL CORRAL

Canopies on modern
aircraft kits, such as
HobbyBoss’ 1/48 scale
F/A-18A, have mold
seams that must be
removed to look right.
Raúl sands and
polishes to eliminate
the marks and leave a
clean, clear canopy.

T
he canopies of modern fighters such as the
F-16 and F/A-18 bulge at the sides as well
as the top. To get the shapes right, kit man-
ufacturers split the molds on the canopy center-
line. Unfortunately, this molding technique
produces a seam that would be easily removed
from opaque plastic pieces. But clear plastic
requires a cleaner approach.
I use masking tape, fine sandpaper, polishing
compounds, and a soft cloth — and patience.
These elements worked well together when I
built Revell’s 1/48 scale Super Hornet.

1 2 3
First, cover the plastic on both sides of the seam Remove the seam with fine sandpaper (800- or The sanded area looks pretty bad right now, but
with masking tape. This will protect the rest of 1000-grit). You don’t need to press hard. don’t worry; you’ll take care of that mess of
the canopy while the seam is being sanded. scratches next.

30  FineScale Modeler  February 2015

 4 5
Tamiya’s three polishing compounds produce great results. There are other Put a generous dollop of Tamiya’s coarse polishing compound on the just-
polishing products on the market — Novus, for example — but avoid sanded area ...
strong polishes, such as those made for full-size cars, because they can ruin
delicate clear plastic.

6 7
... and start carefully polishing using a soft cloth, such as an old T-shirt. Do the same thing using the fine compound. Afterward, the part should
Why carefully? Too much pressure will break the part! look 100 percent better. If you still see the mold seam or scratches, repeat
using the coarse compound.

Got spots and scratches?

If so, check out FSM Editor Matthew Usher’s
tips for removing blemishes from clear parts
at www.FineScale.com/Videos.

8 9
Lastly, Tamiya Polishing Compound Finish will do just what it says — finish Once you’re satisfied with the polishing, wash the part with soap and
the job, leaving a clean, clear canopy with the seam eliminated. Take your water to remove fingerprints and compound residue. Not happy? Repeat
time to make the plastic look like glass. the process. FSM

February 2015  www.FineScale.com 31

BUILDER BASICS
By Mark Hembree

3 techniques for
masking canopies
Let me make one thing perfectly clear …

Italeri’s 1/72 scale

Ju 52 offers a
masking challenge
well met by Pat
Villarreal of Rowlett,
Texas, who used
Tamiya tape on this
crisply painted
canopy. Each pane
was covered by at
least four pieces of
tape; he got sharp
angles by laying
down triangles of
tape at each corner.

T
here are parts of an aircraft model where you can get away with mistakes. The top modeler, cleaned up the plastic, dipped
canopy is never one of them. Spots of glue or squiggly framework on clear parts the canopy in Pledge FloorCare Multi-
can spoil a model more surely than anything. Surface Finish (PFM), and finished the
But if you’ve ever loused one up, you are in excellent company. That’s why you frame with a flat clear, E. That takes a
read so many articles and tips about it. Here are three of the most common — and reliable mighty steady hand, but it looks great.
— ways of masking a canopy for painting.
Masking with tape
Pre-cut masks born, knife it again. You want those edges If a canopy’s panel lines are raised in sharp
For complicated framework or faint, ill- to be clean! relief, you can mask it with tape. But there
defined panel lines, pre-cut masks are my is an essential caveat — it must be Tamiya
favorite. Designed for specific kits, they are Adhesive foil tape or something equally thin and pliable
accurate and easy to apply. Slip the tip of a Faintly molded frames or panel lines and a so you can burnish it tightly to the frame-
hobby knife under a corner of the mask and desire for very fine edges makes adhesive- work, A. Once the outline is clearly defined,
pull it from its adhesive backing, A. Place backed foil a good choice. Aluminum or use a brand-new blade to trim, B. Work one
the mask on the model; align at least one gold foil is less reflective than others, which panel at a time so the tape hews to the can-
side of the mask before burnishing it down, makes it easier to see. Apply a little more opy’s curves. If you airbrush with acrylic
B. Not too hard, though — don’t distort the than you need and burnish it down, A. paint and don’t coat with PFM beforehand,
shape of the mask. After painting, press or Then, using a new hobby knife blade — and after removing the mask you can use a
gently rock the knife blade along the edge I mean brand new — trim along the frame, toothpick to clean up the lines, C. It will
of the mask to break it from the paint, C. B. Use tweezers to pull excess foil away, C. remove the paint without scratching the
Gently turn up a corner of the mask and After painting, a blunt toothpick is all you plastic. This still needs touch-up, D, but it
use tweezers to remove it, D. If it is stub- need to start lifting the foil, D. Walt Fink, a sure beats painting it freehand! FSM

50  FineScale Modeler  January 2017

 Pre-cut masks Adhesive foil Masking with tape

A A

B B

C C

D E D

www.FineScale.com 51
BUILDER BASICS
By Aaron Skinner

Putty in your hands Gap fillers and how to use them

O
bviously kits consist of individ-
ual parts. But the object of fin-
ishing them is to make them
look like a solid object. The best
way to do that is to eliminate gaps between
the pieces. Sanding will take care of minor
problems. However, if the parts don’t quite
meet or are mismatched, filler may be
needed.
Putties remain the go-to for this kind of
work. But there are several types and they
can be useful in different ways. Let’s look at
three main types and how to use them.
Solvent-based putty
Stinky and sticky, these putties contain
organic solvents like toluene and acetone, 1.
Like plastic cement these solvents can melt
styrene, so they adhere well. They’ve been
the gold standard for filling gaps pretty
much since modeling became a serious
hobby and are still widely available today.
Most model or paint companies sell a ver-
sion in a metal tube like toothpaste. (Don’t
confuse them: Putty’s good for gaps in plas-
tic, not for cavities in teeth!)
Before using solvent putties, especially if
they’ve been sitting around, massage the
tube to mix the chemicals, which can sepa-
rate as paint does, 2.
Squeeze some of the putty onto a scrap
of styrene or a glass palette, 3. Replace the
lid immediately after, wiping putty from the
opening; dry putty can prevent the lid from
closing properly allowing the tube’s con-
tents to dry prematurely, 4.
Apply the putty to the seam to be filled
with a flat object, 5. Apply more than is
needed to fill the gap, as most solvent-based
fillers shrink as they dry, 6. You can mini-
mize sanding by scraping some of the
excess away while the putty is wet. But
leave some on either side and never scrape
it flush, 7.
Most solvent-based putty requires sev-
eral hours to set hard in preparation for
sanding; I usually leave it overnight.
The major difference between brands is
the size of the particles in the putty. Larger
grit won’t sand as smooth, whereas finer
ones easily feather at the edges.
Use care when working with solvent-
based putties. The fumes can be harmful if
inhaled, and the products are flammable.
Always use them in a well-ventilated space
away from flames. Also, wear gloves to
avoid skin contact with the chemicals.
Before the putty dries, clean tools with lac-
quer thinner.
Water-based putties
A recent addition to the modeler’s gap-fill-
ing arsenal is water-based putty, 8.
Unlike their solvent-based cousins, these
putties have little odor, can be handled with
fewer precautions, and rarely need mixing
before use. The consistency of toothpaste, 9,
they apply in much the same way as others.
But there is no need to apply excess; they
don’t shrink as they dry. You can use a flat
tool to spoon them over a gap. Or, because
of the thin consistency, you can squeeze
them directly into a seam, 10.
Excess can be removed with a wet finger
or cotton swab, which makes water-based
putties useful for seams like wing roots.
After applying putty, run a damp (not wet)
cotton swab along the seam, 11. Once the

50  FineScale Modeler  March 2017

 1 2 3
Old-school putties, Squadron Green, Testors Just like paint that’s been sitting around for a Tamiya’s basic putty is gray, which matches
Contour, and Tamiya Basic Type are the while, the chemicals in solvent-based putties most plastic and is easy to hide under paint.
standard fillers for most modeling applications. need to be mixed before use. Massage the Wildly divergent colors make it easy to see the
tube to mix the ingredients. filler on gray plastic.

4 5 6
Keep the nozzle clean to extend the life of the I use disposable wooden coffee stirrers to Putty needs to get down into gaps to fill them,
putty in the tube. apply putty. so I push it through with the stirrer.

7 8 9
The edge of the stick is ideal for scraping Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty and Water-based putties are a little thinner than
excess putty from around the gap. Acrylicos Vallejo Plastic Putty are popular with solvent-based fillers, and they don’t shrink as
modelers. they dry.

10 11 12
Low viscosity makes it possible to squeeze After applying Perfect Plastic Putty to the wing Smooth join, no sanding! This is where water-
water-based putties through fine tips, so they root of a Phantom, I remove the excess and based putties truly excel.
can be applied directly to tight spots. smooth the finish with a damp cotton swab.

www.FineScale.com 51
13
Apoxie Sculpt provides plastic containers for
each part. Avoid contaminating either
container as you scoop them out.
16
I push the putty into a gap on a submarine
hull, but the filler can be sculpted on creatures
or clothing for figures.
19
Extended drying times allow you to shape,
carve, and sculpt epoxy putty on the model.
putty dries, the result will be a perfectly
filled and blended seam, 12. Water-based
putties dry quickly; small amounts (as in a
seam) can be sanded within an hour.
Epoxy putties
Developed for plumbing repairs, epoxy put-
ties such as Milliput, Green Stuff, and
Apoxie Sculpt, 13, comprise two parts that
activate when combined. Take equal
amounts of each part using a clean tool for
each, 14; avoid contaminating one with the
other and kicking off the reaction inside the
container.
Knead the parts together until the color
is uniform — unlike a good steak or cake,
you don’t want marbling! You don’t need to
wear gloves for this process, but it will keep
52  FineScale Modeler  March 2017
14
Get the parts as equal as possible to ensure
the epoxy putty sets properly.
17
A little water on a finger will smooth the
surface of the putty and blend the edges into
the surface.
20
Solvent- and water-based putties can be easily
sanded once dry. Epoxy putty is harder and
takes more elbow grease to smooth.
your hands clean, 15. If you choose not to
wear them, wash your hands after mixing to
minimize stickiness.
Take a little of the putty and push it
into the gap, 16. Epoxy putty adheres well
enough, but it can be helpful to rough up
the surfaces to ensure it stays put. Wet your
finger to smooth and shape the putty, 17. It
will take several hours to set, giving you
plenty of working time. Epoxy putty works
for standard gap-filling, but it comes into
its own on figures where the ease of blend-
ing and sculpting can be used to replace or
enhance organic detail.
Epoxy putty is stiffer than either sol-
vent- or water-based putties, so it’s the per-
fect choice for adding new parts such as an
extended radome on an aircraft or a turret
15
Knead the components together until the
color is uniform. Inadequately mixed putty
won’t set.
18
Firm and sturdy, epoxy putty can be formed
and holds its shape, making it ideal for grafting
detail.
21
Thin super glue dries as hard as plastic; I run a
little over large areas of filler to seal the surface
for painting.
bulge on a tank, 18. Wet a tool or tooth-
pick to carve and shape the putty, 19.
Sanding and painting
Once putty is dry, it can be sanded smooth.
Sand with the shape to properly blend the
filler and plastic, 20.
If shrinkage created a shortfall, add
more putty, let it dry, and sand again.
Wear a respirator and eye protection
when sanding putty; the dust is an irritant.
In most cases, putty mimics styrene and
disappears under paint. But large fills may
absorb paint differently. I seal these areas
with a little super glue, then sand them
smooth, 21. (By the way, super glue is a
great filler in its own right — as we’ll see in
an upcoming issue.) FSM