Atlats-woomera plans

Making an Atlatl From a Branch

by Dino Labiste

The atlatl was used for thousands of years almost worldwide. It had the advantage of lengthening the throwing arm
of the hunter, thus more leverage to increase the speed of the dart. Despite the worldwide variations in the design of
the atlatl, the basic components are still the same. They all incorporate a handle connected to a shaft with a spur.

A simple atlatl can be made from a tree branch. Look for a straight branch with a smaller side branch extending out
at an angle. An ideal angle for the smaller side branch would be 40 to 45 degrees from the main branch. Less than
40 degrees would work, but the smaller branch should not be parallel and lay flat to the main branch. The diameter
of the smaller branch, which will become the spur, should fit the size of the notch hole on your dart. Also, be sure
that the main branch is large and comfortable enough to fit in your hand. Too small of a size will be unstable during
the throwing of the dart. The length of your simple atlatl is subjective, although I would not go smaller than 11
inches. Various type of woods may be used for your atlatl. Try not to get a branch that is too soft and too flexible.

This branch from the Toyon tree (also called Christmas Berry) has the potential for becoming an atlatl.
A completed atlatl made from an oak branch. The handle may be wrapped to provide a better grip. The handle of
the oak atlatl was wrapped with split pine root. You may also use buckskin or willow bark for the handle wrapping.
Experiment with different materials.
Another alternative for the handle, besides wrapping, would be to shave or cut the top side of the handle flat. Leave
the bottom side in its natural rounded shape. The flat surface will provide a better gripping surface than a rounded
surface.

The dart ready to be launched using the oak atlatl.

When looking for that atlatl branch, be mindful of the environment and the tree in which you will be harvesting the
branch. Will the tree survive the cutting? Is that branch providing shelter for other flora and fauna. Am I gathering
on private property? In the excitement of looking for that perfect branch, don't let our own desires overpower our
common sense.

Simple Atlatl
by Bob Gillis
To throw your dart using the atlatl, insert the hollowed out end of the dart (near the fletching) onto the tip of the
atlatl. Hold the atlatl in the palm of your hand and the dart with your fingertips.

Three different styles of atlatls.

Both ends of the atlatl are made from a split willow. Note carved point that fits into the hollow end of the dart, on
the above, left hand photo. The above, right hand photo is the handle in which the thumb and fingers are inserted
into the leather loops.
 Split feathers are lashed to one end of the dart. The two feathers are from the same wing of a bird. The end tip is
hollowed out.

For more information on the atlatl, look at the Jiffy Fletching , Atlatl Flexibility Analysis via Computer Modeling,
and Dick's Slide Show and Talk.

Jim Regan's Design

by Jim Regan, used with his widow's permission.

Material:
Wood, 22" x 1 1/2" x 3/4"
Leather thong, 18" long

Construction:

• At the handle end, cut it down to 1" high, slanting to 3/4" high 4" in.

• At the peg end, cut it down to 1 1/4" high, go in 1 1/4", then cut it down to 3/4" high and continue it that
high for 14 1/4" (until you're 2 1/2" from the handle end cut).

• Round off the dart rest.

• Carve out the peg. Just taper the peg block to a point, undercutting it a little so the dart can rest comfortably.

• With a 1/8" drill, make a hole about 1/2" inch from the handle end.

• Round off all the edges and sand smooth.

 • Carefully carve a groove down the middle of the dart rest, extending almost to the sides and about 1/4" deep
in the middle.

• Put the thong through the hole and tie it loosely. This is your wrist strap, so you don't want it too tight.

This is a surprisingly easy atlatl to use. Having the grip on the end instead of the inside takes some getting used to,
but it's a very pleasant design to use and hold. You could also make one without the dart rest and it wouold be an
effective design.

Tom Mills' Basketmaker Woomera

An Australian/Southwestern U.S. crossbreed

This design is from Tom Mills, who describes it as a cross between an Australian Woomera and a Southwestern
Basketmaker style. Sounds about right to me.

And, if you were lucky enough to see "L.A. 10,000 B.C." on the Discovery channel, you've seen this one in action!
This is the very atlatl Tom used to demonstrate the power of the throws. Congratulations, Tom!

Material:
Wood, 22" long, 2 1/2" wide, 1/2" thick
Leather strap, 1" wide x about 24" long

Construction:

• Descide which will be the peg end and which will be the handle end.

• Draw all of your cutting lines before you begin.

• Starting about 6" from the peg end, round in from both sides so that the tip is 3/4" wide.

• The "ball" of the handle grip is about 2" in diameter.

• The "waist" of the handle grip is about 1" wide. This continues out for another 5".
 • From the grip, round both sides back out to about 10" from the peg end.

• Cut out your rough shape.

• Round off the bottom side of your atlatl. The "ball" should be very rounded, while the "paddle" part (the
main body) should be more gently rounded up the sides. Round off the peg end and round it up from the
bottom as well.

• Using a gouge and/or crooked knife, carve out the hollow in the "ball". The bottom center should be about
1/4" deep. Be careful not to get too close to the sides.

• Using a gounge and/or crooked knife, carve out the "paddle". Stop carving about 1" from the peg end (so
you can carve the hook out). The bottom of the center should be about 1/4" deep. Be careful not to get too
close to the sides.

• Cut/carve out the hook. You will need to undercut it so that a dart can rest on it. Carve around it on both
sides so it sticks out far enough.

• Sand and smooth all edges and surfaces.

• Wrap the leather strap around the grip so it is more comfortable in your hand.

Aleut Style 2

From "Popular Mechanics", 1936

Material:
Block of hardwood 19" long, 3" wide, 3/4" thick

Construction:

• To make a stick, cut a half-round or square groove 1/2" wide and 1/4" deep down the center of the wood
stock, using a bench saw if one is available.

• Then shape the handle and bore a hole for the forefinger as shown in the drawing.

• Glue a small hardwood block tightly into the far end of the groove.
 • After the glue has set, taper the stick to shape.

Point Barrow Throwing-Board

This is an arctic Point Barrow style throwing-board. The original was collected in Point Barrow, Alaska in 1883.
The image is from "Throwing-Sticks In The National Museum" by Otis T. Mason, published by the Smithsonian
Institute in 1890.

Here is the accompanying text:

Point Barrow type. The specific marks are the distinct handle without finger grooves, the very eccentric index-
finger hole, the method of inserting the spur for the shaft, and the harpoon-shaft groove very shallow above and
deep below. In the specimens collected by Mr. Murdoch there in great uniformity of shape.

Material:
Wood, 16 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 3/4"
Dowel, 1/4" x 5/8" long

Construction:

• Cut out the peg end. Starting 12" from the end, taper it down to 3/4" wide at the tip. At 9" from the end, it
should be 1 1/2" wide; at 4 1/2" from the tip, it should be 1" wide.

• Cut out the handle. 3 3/8" from the end, cut in 1 1/2" on the high side and slant it up. On the groove side, cut
in 1/2" and round out the end.
• Cut the groove. Staring 1/2" from the peg end, cut a 3/8" wide groove. At the peg end, it should be 3/8"
deep, slanting upwards to flush at the grip. Center it at the peg end, slanting it over to 3/4" from the edge at
the grip.

• Drill a 1/4" hole in the groove end, as close to level as you can. It's not critical, though.

• Round off the ends and edges.

• Round off the botton of the peg end.

• Drill the fingerhole. Make it 3/4" for a small finger, 1" for a large finger.

• Sand it all smooth.

• Round off one end of the peg. Put glue in the hole, insert the flat end, and push it in firmly.

A Point Barrow throwing board made by Uwe, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany.

Danke for letting me use the picture, Uwe!

 QnD Tlingit Throwing Board

This is my (mostly theoretical) version of the Tlingit throwing board. The Tlingit live on the southeastern coast of
Alaska, and I've seen images of 3 different throwing boards, but finally found the secret in pictures from the
Smithsonian. They have a groove cut out on the bottom, and I assume there's a peg there, because a) throwing
boards from that area usually do, and b) it works.

This is a QnD (quick and dirty) version, to give you an idea of how it works. The originals are beautifully carved
and decorated, which I tried to do in my first two versions (and you can do on yours), but which is purely
decorative and doesn't affect the function.

Material:
Wood, 14" x 1 1/4" x 3/4"
Dowel peg, 1/4" x 3/4"

Construction:

• 6" from the handle end, drill the finger hole. I was able to use a 1/2" diameter drill, going down about 1/2"
(only the index finger tip has to fit in). Slant it back towards the handle end.

• Cut down the top of the handle. Starting about 5" from the handle end, slope it down to 1/2" high at the end
(see the side view).

• Thin the handle sides. Starting about 4" from the end, taper them in slightly so that the end is about 1" wide.

• Round off the tip end.

• Round off all edges and sand smooth.

• On the bottom (the peg side), mark out lines starting 1/2" from the tip and 3/8" from the sides. Run them out
to about where the finger hole is on top (see bottom view).

• Using a chisel, cut out the groove. It should be 1/4" deep at the tip (where the peg will go), running up to
flush with the board at the end by the finger hole.

• Drill a 1/4" hole at the tip end for the peg. Make it at about a 60 degree angle.

• Round off one end of the dowel peg and place it in the hole. Make sure that it does not extend over the edge
of the board. If it does, trim it down a little. The idea is to have the throwing board lie flat on the groove
side.
 A genuine Tlingit Throwing Board

My first attempt

My second attempt

To use this, you need to use light darts. Put the tip of your index finger in the hole, then place the dart on the peg.
Grip it between your thumb and middle finger, with your other fingers gripping the handle. Throwing with this
doesn't require much more than a wrist snap.

Kris Tuomala's Basketmaker Atlatl

 by Kris Tuomala. Posted with his permission.

Material:
Wood, 24" x 7/8" x 3/8"
Leather, 1" x 7"
Artificial Sinew

Construction:
Atlatl

• Round off both ends.

• Carve out the peg and groove. Go down about 1/8" deep. Be sure to undercut the peg so it will grip the dart.

• Cut out the finger grips. Leave 5/8" between them.

• Round off all edges and sand.

• 7" from the peg end, you need to make a slight bend in the wood. Hold that area over steam until the wood
is pliable, then bend it over a hard surface and let it set.

Handle

• Cut a 1" slit in the middle of the leather.

• Slide the slit over the handle to just below the finger grips. Glue it in place.
 • Put the last 1" of the ends above the finger grips. Wrap them around the shaft, glue them down, and wrap
them down with sinew.

Kuskokwim Throwing Board

This ia a throwing board from the Kuskokwim area of southwesern Alaska. The original, on display at the Sheldon
Jackson Museum in Sitka, Alaska, is 16" long. It was possibly collected by Sheldon Jackson in the 1890s.

Material:
Wood, 16" x 2 1/2" x 3/4"
Dowel, 1/4" x 3/4" (throwing peg)
Dowel, 3/16" x 1 3/4" (finger peg)

Construction:

• Cut out the sides of the board. The end is 7/8" wide, and it's fairly straight for about the first three inches,
then recurves out to the sides.

• Cut out the grip. The deepest part on the "top" is 3/4", tapering up to 1/4" from the top at the end.
• Round off the tip and the handle grip.

• Thin out the finger rest. Work it down to about 3/8" high at the edge, up to flush on the thumb side.

End View

• Carve out the groove. Make it 3/8" wide where the peg goes if you can (I had to use a 1/2" chisel, so my
groove is wider and farther from the tip). Follow the sides of the board, flaring it out. It should be 1/4" deep
where the peg goes, rising up to flush with the top of the board about 10" from the handle end.

• Drill the hole for the index finger. I used a 3/4" drill and just went all the way through, and it's very
comfortable for me. Drill whatever is right for your hand. I put the hole 5 3/4" from the handle end of the
board, in the center, sloping down towards the back.

• Round off the edges of the finger hole and sand it down.

• Round off all the edges and sand smooth.

• If you want to stain or paint it, do it now before you attach the pegs.

• At the tip end of the groove, drill a 1/4" hole about 3/8" deep. Drill it at a 45 degree angle sloping back
towards the tip.

• Take the 1/4" peg and round off one end. Glue the other end in the peg hole.

• On the side of the finger grip, drill a 3/16" hole. I did mine 3 3/8" from the handle end, but do whatever fits
your hand. Drill in at a slight angle, going in about 3/4" deep.

• Simply glue the finger peg in place.

The original
 Mine are the same size, just smaller photos.

My first copy

My second copy
For the hands-on display at the Sheldon Jackson Museum.

This is a joy to hold and throw with. To use it, you put your index finger in the hole from the back, put your middle
finger on one side of the peg, and wrap your hand around the grip.

Lower Alabama Creek Style

by Dan Hutchison, Apalachee Archery. Posted with his permission.

I'm mixed blood Muskogee[Creek] from south Al. , this is the style my grandfather and great uncle's taught me
to make as a child in the 1940's & 50's.

Material:
Wood, 20" x 1" x 1/2" (main board)
Wood, 3" x 1" x 1" (peg block)
Dowel, 5/16" x 1 1/2"
Leather thong, 9" long

Construction:

• 6" from the peg end, start tapering the board down to 1/2" wide at the handle.

• Cut and shape the peg block, leaving about 1/2" flat on top.

• Glue the peg block onto the main board, clamp, and let dry.

• Alternate: Instead of using two pieces of wood, you could cut the rough shape out of one piece (a 2x4
would work nice). Seems like a waste of wood, though, which is why I suggested 2 pieces and gluing them.
 • Drill a 1/8" hole though the handle, 5" from the end.

• Drill a 5/16" hole into the peg block at a 40 degree angle, about 1" deep.

• Round off all edges and sand smooth.

• Round/taper one end of the dowel peg. Put glue in the hole and insert the flat end, pushing it in firmly.

• Put the thong through the hole and tie it in back.

The original has an antler peg, a bow-style thong grip, and a rock weight tied on just ahead of the peg block

Texas Atlatl

Reproduction atlatl from Texas, made by Travis Mogford.

Material:
Wood, 23 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/4"
(2) Leather Straps, 1/2" by 5"
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Thin the top of the atlatl. Starting 1 1/2" from the peg end, cut down 1/4" and remove it to the handle end.

• Starting 2 1/2" from the handle end, thin it to 1" wide at the end.

• Hollow out the "belly", starting 3/16" from either edge. Make it 1/4" deep in the middle.
• Carve out the peg and continue the "belly" around it. Bring the tip to a point and undercut it.

• Round the bottom to match the top, leaving 1/4" of wood.

• From 3 3/4" to 5" from the handle end, cut out the fingergrips. Leave 3/4" between them.

• Round all edges and sand smooth.

• Drill (4) 1/8" holes on both sides, 2 above and 2 below the fingergrips.

• Glue the leather straps to the sides and "sew" them on through the holes.

Plush Cave Atlatl

 Found at Plush Cave, S.E. Oregon. Possibly 1500-2000 years old.

Material:
Wood, 21" x 3/4" x 1/2"
Leather thong, 24" or so

Construction:

• On top, starting 10" from the peg end, slant it down towards the peg leaving the last 1" intact. The end
should be 1/8" above the sides.

• Starting at the raised area, cut the groove. It should be 3/8" wide, 1/4" deep, and 7 1/2" long.

• Carve the peg on top, undercutting it to extend the groove.

• Round the bottom and the ends.

• From 3 3/4" to 5 1/4" from the base of the handle, cut out the grips. Leave 1/2" between the sides.

• Cut a shallow groove on the sides and under the bottom just above and below the finger grips. Make the top
one a little wider.

• Round all edges and sand smooth.

Fingerloops
From the shape and the grooves, this is probably very similar to a basketmaker atlatl, which had braided leather
fingerloops.

Unfortunately, braiding leather is not my strong point, and I have no idea how it used to be done. I know a way that
will work, however.
 • Fold the thong in half and twist it a few times to form a loop. Slide the loop into the top groove and twist it
tight.

• Continue twisting until you have about 3" done. Be careful not to twist it too tightly, though, or it will kink
up.

• Bend the twisted section down to the bottom groove and make one twist around the shaft.

• Continue twisting until you have another 3" done, Bend it up to the top groove, twist it around the shaft, and
tie it off. Trim off the excess.

Nicolarson Cave Atlatl

Based on an atlatl found in Nicolarson Cave, Lake Winnemucca, Nevada. Possibly 8000 years old.

Material:
Wood, 23" x 3/4" x 5/8"
Bone hook, 4" long
Soapstone Atlatl Weight, 7 1/2" long
Artificial Sinew

This is a difficult one, involving wood, bone, and stone. Hope you're up for a challenge!

Construction:
Wood part:

• Starting 13" from the handle end, begin tapering the sides of the shaft to 9/16" at the peg end.

• Starting in the same place, cut the bottom so it slants up to 9/16" at the peg end.

• Round off the tapered area. 5" from the peg end, it should be a circle.

• Flatten off the last 3" from the peg end, tapering down slightly. This is where the bone hook will attach.

• Cut a small groove in the back of the peg end, about 1/4" in. (See picture below).

• The original atlatl had grooves cut into the handle, up to about 4" in. This was for a better grip. It's up to
you.

• Round the edges and sand it smooth.

Bone part:

• Take your bone blank and carefully shape the hook as shown. The back (away from the peg) should be flat
so it lies on the atlatl. Don't make the point too sharp, or it will break the end of your darts.

• Using glue and artificial sinew, attach the hook as shown.

Stone part:

• Shape the soapstone as shown. It should be 7 1/2" long, 3/4" wide, and about 3/4" high when done, rounded
and tapered on top with grooves on either end. The back has to be flat to lie against the atlatl.

• Using glue and artifical sinew, attach the weight as shown.

 Ozark Bluff Dweller Style 1

From "Indian Handcrafts"

Material:
Block of hardwood 22" long, 1 3/4" wide, 3/4" thick
Dowel, 1/4" x 3"

Construction:

• Pencil an atlatl stick design on a 3/4-inch hardwood board. After sawing to shape, undercut the hook into a
"V" shape to hold the dart arch. Then gently round the edges of the stick.

• Drill a 1/4-inch hole 3 inches from the handle end.

• Glue a 1/4-inch dowel 3 inches long in place for the hand stop.

• You may wish to add an atlatl weight to give the stick more throwing heft.

Ozark Bluff Dweller Atlatl

Estimated measurements, based on the Ozark Bluff Dweller atlatl, Arkansas.

Material:
Wood, 18" x 1" x 1/2"
Dowel, 1/4" x 3"

Construction:

• Cut the outline of the atlatl.

• Round off all the edges.

• Taper the peg to a rounded point.

• Drill a 1/4" hole 3" from the handle end.

• Sand it all smooth.

• Put the dowel through the hole and glue it in place.

The best way I've found to hold these is to put your thumb and finger over the dowel, and the rest of your fingers
under it. I don't know if that's right, but it works.

Santa Barbara Atlatl

This was found in Santa Barbara, Baja California and is possibly Chumash. It was found in 1793.
The description given is:
"spearthrower of moderately hard, light-coloured wood, pierced with two holes for the first two fingers: the hook is
made of a piece of bone rudely shaped. The whole seems to have once been covered with red color, now almost
worn away. From the bone hook to the projection at the broad end of the implement is a shallow channel, as is
usually found."

This seems too short to be functional. Possibly a children's model.

Material:
Wood, 5 1/2" x 4 1/2" x 1"
Dowel or bone peg

Construction:

• Cut out the basic shape.

• Drill 2 fingerholes, 3/4" in diameter about an inch apart.

• Drill a hole for the peg.

• Carefully carve a v-channel down the center of the board, running in about 3".

• Round the edges and sand it.

• Put some glue in the peg hole and insert the peg, pressing firmly.

Modified University of Missouri Atlatl

This is based on the University of Missouri atlatl. I wasn't too pleased with the original, so I made some
modifications to it.

Material:
Wood, 20" x 1 1/0" x 3/4"
Dowel, 3/8" x 1 1/2"
Leather strap, 1" x 9"
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Starting 2 1/2" from the peg end and 5" from the handle end, thin it to 3/4" wide in the middle.

• Starting in the same place, thin it to 1/2" high from the bottom.

• Starting 5" from the handle end, cut in and narrow the handle to 3/4" wide.

• Round off both ends.

• 1" from the peg end, drill a 3/8" hole at a 30 degree angle.

• Round off all edges and sand.

• Round/taper one end of the dowel. Put glue in the hole and insert the flat end. Push it in firmly.

• Glue 1" of the straps above the handle on both sides and glue it down. The loop should be on the back of the
atlatl (away from the peg). Wrap tightly with sinew.

University of Missouri Atlatl

I bought this on ebay, and all they could tell me about it is that it's a reproduction made at the University of
Missouri.

Material:
Wood, 23 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/4"
Dowel, 3/8" x 1 1/2"
(2) Leather straps, 1" x 5"
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Starting 4" from the peg end and 5" from the handle end, thin it to 1" wide in the middle.

• Starting in the same place, thin it to 5/8" high from the bottom.

• 3 1/2" from the handle end, cut out the finger grips. Leave 1" between them.
 • Round off both ends.

• 1" from the peg end, drill a 3/8" hole at a 40 degree angle.

• Cut out the groove. Starting 1 1/2" from the peg end, cut it for 2", 3/8" wide, about 1/8" deep.

• Round off all edges and sand.

• Round/taper one end of the dowel. Put glue in the hole and insert the flat end. Push it in firmly.

• Glue 1" of the straps above and below the finger grips. Wrap tightly with sinew.

The original has an antler peg, sinew-wrapped leather handles, leather "sleeves" above and below the grips, a wrist
strap, and decorative sinew wrapping. It also had smaller fingergrips which were too hard to use, so I've widened
them for this version.

Council Hill Atlatl

This is an atlatl that was found at the Council Hill site in eastern Nevada back in the 1920's. The original
excavations were never published, however, so any information about its origin is lost. It is very similar to ones
used by the Basketmaker II culture, however, so it is safe to assume it's from the same era (100 BC - 400 AD). The
most unusual feature of this atlatl is the channel that runs nearly the entire length of the atlatl. Keep in mind that
this is my interpretation of the original.

Material:
Wood, 20 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/8"
(2) Leather, 1/2" x 4 1/2"
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Carve out the finger grips and wrapping spots. The middle one is for your fingers, so it should be the
deepest, but try to leave at least 1/2" of wood between them. The depressions on the sides of the finger grips
are to hold the sinew in place when wrapping the leather straps.
• Carve out the peg and groove. Go down about 1/8" deep. Be sure to undercut the peg so it will grip the dart.
The easiest way to do this is to scratch in the outline of the peg, and then score a line running down the shaft
for the groove. Keep cutting this groove down, then cut in from the sides to remove the wood.

• Drw a line down the exact center of the shaft, from the end of the groove to the handle end. Take your knife
and just cut in a little from each side to make the channel.

• Round off all edges and sand.

• If you're going to stain or color the wood, do it now before you attach the finger straps.

• Take one piece of leather and lay it over the top depression (towards the peg end) so that about 1/2" is
sticking out past the depression. Glue it in place. Do the same for the other side, and then wrap it in place
with the sinew.

• Holding it in your hand as if you were going to throw, find out where the bottom of the leather straps should
be located. Glue and wrap them in place over the bottom depression.

Scan from Great Basin Atlatl Studies

 My Council Hill Atlatl
(Made from a piece of lath, colored with Cordovan color shoe wax)

My 2nd Council Hill Atlatl

(Made from a piece of lath, colored with brown shoe wax)

THE MAYAN ATLATL

From the article
Target Practice With Mayan Throwing Sticks
By Clark H. Rutter
Popular Science Monthly, August 1935
Transcribed and illustration imaged by thrower list member Michael Fagan
Here is a fascinating sport that requires little equipment and is quickly mastered - hurling arrows at a
target with a homemade hul-che, or Indian throwing stick.

The hul-che was one of the weapons used by the ancient Mayas in Yucatan and other parts of Mexico
and Central America. It is merely a stick with a protruding head or peg, which engages the end of an
arrow. By means of the stick, the arrow can be thrown great distances, with surprising force and
accuracy. Unlimited skill may be gained by practice; the exercise is a healthful one; and the sport
becomes highly competitive when engaged in by a group.

The sticks illustrated are not copies of authentic Mayan designs, but represent a few of the many types
that may be easily fashioned.

In the photograph at the left, showing a group of six sticks, No. 1 is made from the forked branch of a
tree. The smaller branch is burned off to harden and round it so that it serves as a peg. The second stick
is whittled from white pine, and the peg is a wood screw, which is rounded with a file after the head
has been cut off. Slightly more elaborate is No. 3. It has an ebony peg, and there is a dowel peg
through the handle for a finger rest. Cord is wrapped around the stick in two places for decoration.

Still better are the sticks marked Nos. 4, 5, and 6. These are made of maple and have turned ebony,
bone, or maple pegs. They are painted in various colors and decorated with cord wrappings, leather
fringes, and feathers, and have leather loops for the fingers. All three sticks can be cut from a piece of
maple 5/8 by3 by 30 in., as shown in the diagram near the end of this article. The stock for the handles
is 5/8 in. square. The heads may be cut to any desired design and the handles rounded off and dressed
down to about ½ in. round. The sticks are then sanded, stained, and polished.
The peg in each case is about 1/4 in. in diameter, with a ball formed on the end. A ball will follow the
concave socket in the arrow through a greater length of stroke than a plain, straight point. The peg may
be set at any from 45 to 80 deg.

Glue the peg in a hole drilled in the head. Attach the finger loops and decorations with wrappings of
cord such as chalk line. Pull the ends through under the wrappings to avoid knots. The wrappings may
be stained with water colors and shellacked when dry.

Although arrows from 28 in. to 5 ft. in length may be used, the standard 28-in. target or hunting arrows
obtainable at any sporting-goods store are probably the most practical. It is necessary merely to cut off
the nock and form a round concave socket to match the end of the peg. If you wish to make your own
arrows, you will find instructions in any standard book on archery.

The method of gripping the stick is illustrated in the accompanying series of four photographs. The
second, third, and fourth fingers grasp the handle, while the first finger is folded up out of the way.
Place the arrow socket on the peg and lay the shaft along the first joint of the second finger, holding
the shaft in place with the thumb. Use only enough pressure to keep it from falling off.

Stand with the feet apart, the left foot forward and pointing toward the target, the right foot back and at
right angles to the left, unless, of course, you are a left-handed thrower, in which case the position is
reversed.

Draw the stick with the arrow in place straight back over the shoulder and execute a straightforward
overhand swing. At the finish of the stroke, rock up on the right toes. Do not try to release the arrow
with the thumb, as it is not necessary. If the thumb is pressed lightly against the arrow, but not lapped
entirely over the top, the release will take place without conscious effort and at exactly the right time.

The throwing stick is by no means a toy. It has a range up to 500 ft., and the power is sufficient to
inflict serious injuries. Use the same precautions as with archery. Be especially sure to have plenty of
room when you first try out the sport. An archery target is most convenient to use, but any type of
target in which the arrows will stick may be used.

Do not allow children to use the throwing sticks unless under adult supervision. If you regard it as a
weapon and use reasonable care, you will find it quite safe and will soon develop considerable
accuracy. Continued practice will bring greater skill and increasing enjoyment in this unique and
healthful sport.

Tarascan (Mexican) Atlatl

 Still used for fishing in Mexico today.

Material:
Wood, 26" x 3" x 3/4"

Construction:

• Cut out the outline (handle and shaf)

• Starting 2 1/4" from the peg end, cut the groove 3/4" wide by 1/4" deep with a rounded bottom. Continue for
15", flaring the end out on the grip.

• Carve out the peg and extend the groove around it.

• Drill the fingerholes. Use 1" holes for larger fingers, 3/4" holes for smaller ones. Leave about 3/8" between
them.

• Round off the bottom of the shaft.

• Round off the edges and sand smooth.

The original ones have a hook on the bottom. This is used to retrieve the fishing line and dart. If you want to make
this style, you have two options.

1. Start with a 1 1/2" thick board instead of a 3/4" board. Follow the steps above and after drilling the
fingerholes, remove the bottom 3/4" of the board back to where the hook starts. Carve out the hook and
continue.

2. Cut out a 2" x 1 1/4" x 3/4" piece of wood. Follow the steps above and after drilling the fingerholes, glue
and clamp this block under the peg end. When dry, carve out the hook and continue.
 Aztec Double Atlatl

Based on an ancient Aztec atlatl, most likely ceremonial (although I would like to try throwing with it).

Material:
Wood, 23" x 1 3/8" x 3/4"
(2) Dowels, 1/4" x 2"

Construction:

• Cut 1/4" x 1/4" square grooves down the board, leaving 1/8" in the center for a spacer.

• Shape the atlatl. It's a steady taper.

• Round the bottom of the atlatl per the cross-section picture.

• Round the edges of the atlatl and round off the peg end.

• Sand and smooth the board.

• Taper/round one end of the dowels and glue them in place. They will lie completely in the groove.

Kuikuru Style 1
From "Whittlin', Whistles, and Thingamajigs"
 Material:
Seasoned wood 26 1/2" long, 3" wide, 1 to 1
1/8" thick
3/8" dowel, 3" long

Construction:

• With yardstick or dark-colored chalk line

make a straight line down the whole
length of the board at its middle so that
each parallel side is 1 1/2" from the
middle line. Make a similar middle line
on the other side of the board. By taking
identical measurements out from the
middle line on either side of the board
one can lay out the spearthrower and
make it straight.

I made this after seeing a picture of it on the internet and figuring out the
dimensions on my own.
Since then, I've found other plans for it and am amazed at how close I came.

Material:
Wood, 24" x 2 1/2" x 3/4"
3/8" dowel, 2 1/2" long
Sinew or Cordage
Construction:
• Cut out the basic shape. You can taper the back of the shaft as well, if
you want

• Drill a 1" fingerhole in the center as shown.

• Round off all the edges and sand.

• Cut one end of the dowel at a 60 degree angle, then round/taper the
other end.

• Glue and wrap the peg. Let it dry for a few hours before using.

Modified Aleut Style

Based on Aleut/Kuikuru Designs

This started out as an Aleut style atlatl. I loved the grip but hated the rest, so I changed it until I liked the results.
Later I found out it's almost identical to a Kuikuru (Amazonian) design.

Material:
Wood, 21" long, 2" wide, 3/4" thick
Dowel, 3/8" x 2"

Construction:

• Cut out the basic shape.

• About 1" from the tip, drill a 3/8" hole at about a 30 degree angle. Be careful not to drill all the way through.
• Drill a 1" hole for the index finger, slanted slightly from front to back. For a left-handed atlatl, drill the
finger hole on the other side of the centerline. It matters.

• Round off all edges and sand smooth.

• Grip the atlatl. If it isn't comfortable for your thumb or fingers, just carve it down until it feels good.

• Round/taper one end of the dowel. Put some glue in the hole, then put the flat end of the dowel in. Push it in
firmly and let dry.

Australian Style "Arrow-Flicker"

Based on Australian Design

Leather thong, 9" long

Construction:

• Cut the wood according to the pattern.

• Taper the peg to a point.

• Round off all the edges and sand smooth.

• 6" from the end, drill a 1/8" hole through the handle. Put the thong through and tie it on the back (away from
the peg).

_______________________________
 "Paddle" Woomera

This woomera was listed on ebay. The area it came from wasn't listed. It was originally collected in the 1940s.

Material:
Hardwood, 22" x 4" x 5/8"
Dowel, 3/8" x 1 1/4"
Artificial Sinew
Glue

Construction:

• The widest part of the woomera is located between 6" and 7" from the peg end. From there, taper it down to
6 1/2" from the handle end until it's 1 7/8" wide.

• From there, starting about 4 3/8 inches from the handle end, flare it back out to 2 3/4" wide.

• Round off the handle end.

• For the peg end, starting 6" away taper it down to 5/8" wide 1" from the end, then continue straight to the
end. Round it off. This is the ledge for the peg.

• Round off all edges and sand smooth. You may want to thin out the "waist" where your hand will grip it. In
addition, it looks like it was shaved thinner from the waist down to the peg end. Possibly 3/8" to 1/2" thick?

• Round off one end of the dowel peg and cut the other end off at about a 60" angle.

• Glue the dowel peg down to the ledge and wrap it with the sinew. You may want to put an additional coat of
glue over all the sinew when done. This will dry into a hard shell.
 Unknown Woomera-Style

This spearthrower was listed on ebay, and the person selling it had no idea as to where it came from. From the
wood used and the general shape, I *assume* it's an Australian woomera of some kind, but have no way to prove it.
In addition, the pictures weren't very clear, so the dimensions are guesswork. If you know anything about this kind,
please send me a message about it!

Material:
Hardwood, 17" x 1 3/4" x 3/8"

Construction:

• Round off the handle end.

• About 4 3/8" from the handle end, cut out a small finger notch. This should be about 1" long.

• Starting about 9 3/4" from the peg end, start tapering the top of the atlatl down until it's 7/8" high about 3
1/2" from the peg end.

• Shape the peg end. Round off the end, and then undercut the top to form the peg. Go in to 2 5/8" from the
end.

• Round off all the edges and sand smooth.

I haven't had a chance to try this style yet, and I'm not sure how it would work when finished. If anybody makes one
before I do, could you let me know the results?

Southern Eyre Peninsula Woomera

From the description when I bought it:

"Hardwood woomera spearthrower with a bone barb made by an old Aboriginal man near Port Lincoln South
Australia about 20 - 25 years ago. This is the type made by the Aboriginal groups of the southern Eyre peninsula by
aboriginals there prior to European settlement. The Aboriginal people of this area were, in many cases, harshly
dealt with by the settlers and very few early artefacts survive."

Material:
Hardwood, 25" x 1 1/2" x 5/8"
5/16" dowel, 1 1/2" long
Wood glue

Construction:

• The "knob" on the handle end goes in for about 1 3/4", then narrows to 1 1/4".

• From there until 1 1/2" from the peg end, it tapers down to 3/4" high.

• On the peg end, trim it down to 1 1/8" high, then round off the end and cut down a notch for the peg.

• Shape the peg end. Starting about 2" from the end, it thins down to almost a point at the very end. On top,
shape it into a ridge that runs all along the top of the "head".

• Drill a 5/16" hole about 1/2" into the head, following the notch you cut out. This will support the peg and
keep it from breaking.

• Round off all the edges and sand it smooth.

• Round off one end of the dowel peg. Glue the flat end of the peg into the hole, push it in as far as you can,
and let dry.
 Northern Coast Woomera

Australian woomera from the northern coast, used by the Gnanji and Umbaia tribes.

I originally found the description of this style at http://www.sacred-texts.com/aus/ntna/ntna14.htm, but wan't going
to put it up. But then I found this image of it in Wurley and Wommera by Janet Mathews and decided it was fate.

Material:
Dowel, 1/2" x 36"
Dowel, 1/4" x 1"
Resin/Water Putty
Hair/Fur/String for Tassel

Construction:

• Round off one end of the 1/4" dowel.

• Put a ball of resin/putty on the end of the shaft and push the 1/4" dowel into it at a 30 degree angle. Let it
harden.

• Wrap the hair/fur/string around the handle end and coat it with the resin/water putty. Let harden.

Image from the Smithsonian Collection, courtesy of Margie and Frank

Mornington Island Woomera

 Australian woomera from Mornington Island, Queensland.

Material:
Wood, 30 3/4" x 2" x 1"

Construction:

• Starting 13" from the peg end, thin the sides. From 8" to the end it should be 5/8" thick.

• Remove the pieces above and below the handle.

• Taper the bottom cut to 5 1/4" from the end (directly under the peg hook).

• Starting 2 1/2" from the peg end, round it down to approx. 3/4" high.

• Undercut the peg, going in about 3/8".

• Make the handle circular and round off the end.

• Round the sides of the peg end, continuing to the end and rounding it off as well.
 • Sand it all smooth.

Fishing Wommera

Australian fishing wommera, origin unknown. I found the picture in the book "Wurley and Wommera" by Janet
Matthews.

Material:
Wood, 34 1/2" x 4" x 3/4"
Dowel, 1/2" x 2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Shape the peg end. Starting 11 1/2" from the end, round it down to 1 1/2" wide 6" from the end. Leave it
that wide for 2", then taper it to 1" wide at the end.

• Cut out the handle end and shaft. Starting at the wide point by the peg end, taper it down to 3/4" wide 16"
from the handle end. Keep it at 3/4" wide until 5" from the handle, then cut out the "spear head" shape.

• Round off the ends.

• Shape the wide sections into an ellipsis and round off the 3/4" section.
 • Drill a 3/8" hole through the board by the peg end. This is for the fishing line.

• Sand everything smooth. Be sure to smooth the edges of the fishing line hole.

• Taper one end of the peg to a point and cut the other end at a 60 degree angle. Glue it onto the peg tab, wrap
it with sinew, and cover it with resin/putty.

To use for fishing, tie one end of the line onto the dart shaft, pass the line through the hole, and tie the other end to a
1/2" x 3" dowel. This keeps the line for going out too far.

Woomera 5

From the eBay description:

"This is a very unusual womera or spear thrower I bought at an auction recently. It is made from a hard wood with a
wooden peg at one end. On the back of the spear thrower is a very fine incised pattern. The womera has a good feel
and balance from it. Possibly from West Austalia. Length 28 inches Width 2.5 inches "

I'm not sure what to make of this one. It definitely looks like a woomera, except for the inset peg. That's a new one
to me.

Material:
Wood, 28 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 3/4"
Dowel, 3/8" x 3/4"

Construction:
• Draw the following guide onto the handle end.

• Starting 13" from the handle end, draw a line for the sides, tapering down to meet the handle image.

• Cut out the handle and taper.

• Round up the bottom of the grip. Just come up 1/4" or so, enough to give it a good "waist".

• Starting 2" from the peg end, round it off into a nice semicircle.

• Round up the bottom of the woomera.

• 1" in from the peg end, drill a 3/8" hole at about a 40 degree angle. Go in as deep as you dare.

• Round off all edges and sand it smooth.

• Sharpen one end of the dowel peg. Put some glue in the hole and insert it.
 Woomera 4

Australian woomera from the Central Desert region, Pitjantjatjara tribe. With a chisel end.

Material:
Wood, 29" x 3 3/4" x 5/8"
Dowel, 1/2" x 1 1/2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
Piece of flint or shell, 2" long by 1/4" wide

Construction:

• Cut out the peg end. Starting 5 1/2" from the end, round/taper it down to the peg "tab". The tab is 3/4" wide
by 1" long.

• Cut out the handle end. Starting 16" from the end, round/taper it down. It should be 1" wide 4" from the end,
then flaring back out to 2" wide at the end.

• Carve out the "belly". Starting 6" from the handle end, go down about 1/4" in the center.
 • Round the back to match the belly.

• Round off all edges and sand smooth.

• Taper one end of the peg to a point and cut the other end at a 60 degree angle. Glue it onto the peg tab, wrap
it with sinew, and cover it with resin/putty.

• Put resin/putty on the handle end. Build it up about 1/4" all the way around. Push in the flint/shell and let it
set.

Woomera 3

Flat Australian woomera, possibly from the Central Desert region.

Material:
Wood, 22" x 4" x 3/8"
Dowel, 1/2" x 1 3/4"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Cut out the peg end. Starting 4 1/2" from the end, round/taper it down to the peg "tab". The tab is 3/4" wide
by 1 3/8" long.

• Cut out the handle end. Starting 9 1/2" from the end, round/taper it down to 1 1/8" wide 3 1/2" from the end,
then cut out the handle knob.

• Round off all edges and sand smooth.

• Taper one end of the peg to a point and cut the other end at a 60 degree angle. Glue it onto the peg tab, wrap
it with sinew, and cover it with resin/putty.
 Queensland Woomera 5

Woomera from Cape York, Queensland in northeastern Australia. Similar to Queensland Design 4, but this one I
actually have here in front of me so I'm sure of the dimensions.

Material:
Wood, 27 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/2"
Dowel, 7/16" x 2 1/4"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Starting 9" from the peg end, taper it down from both sides until it is 1 1/4" wide at the end.

• Starting 12" from the handle end, taper it down from both sides until it is 1 1/4" wide 6" from the end. Keep
it that wide until 3 1/2" from the end, then flare it back out to 1 1/2" wide 1" from the end. Round off the
handle end.

• Make the body of the woomera elliptical and sand it all smooth.

Peg End Assembly

• On the peg end, cut a shallow "V" shaped notch from top to bottom, deep enough so the peg can rest in it.

• In the middle (5/8" from the top and bottom), cut a notch 1/8" high by 1/4" deep.
 • Round off the top and bottom of the peg dowel.

• 1/2" from the bottom, cut a notch in the peg to match the board, 1/8" high by 1/8" deep.

• 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.

• Cut a piece of wood 3/8" x 3/8", 1/8" thick. This goes between the board and the peg.

• Glue and assemble the peg.

• Wrap it with artificial sinew.

• Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 1 1/2" up the board.

Queensland Woomera Type 4

Woomera from Cape York, Queensland in northeastern Australia.

Material:
Wood, 35" x 2" x 3/8"
Dowel, 3/8" x 2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Starting 9" from the peg end, round it down to 1" high at the end.
• Cut out the handle "block" as shown.

• Shape the top and bottom of the woomera. Starting 18" from the handle end on top, round/taper it down to
meet the handle block. Starting 12" from the end on the bottom, rount/taper it up to meet the block.

• Thin the peg end to 1/8" wide.

• Cut a notch on the peg end of the woomera 1/4" from the top. The notch should be 1/8" high and 1/4" deep
(see picture below).

• Make the body of the woomera elliptical and sand it all smooth.

• Round off the top and bottom of the dowel.

 • Starting 1/4" from the bottom, cut a groove 1/8" deep, 1/8" wide, and 1" high. This fits on the end of the
board.

• Cut a notch in the peg to match the board, 1/8" high by 1/8" deep.

• 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.

• Cut a piece of wood 3/8" x 3/8", 1/8" thick. This goes between the board and the peg.

• Glue and assemble the peg.

• Wrap it with artificial sinew.

• Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 1" up the shaft.

• Make a ball of resin/putty to go over the handle block. Coat the handle with resin to about 7 1/2" from the
end.

Queensland Woomera 3

Australian woomera, possibly from Queensland. I'm assuming that based on the peg style.

Material:
Dowel, 1" x 23" (shaft)
Dowel, 3/8" x 1 1/2" (peg)
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Starting 5" from one end of the shaft, taper it down to 3/4" at the end. This is the handle. Starting 1 1/2"
from the other end, taper it down to 3/4". This is the peg end.
 • On the peg end, cut a "V" shaped notch 3/8" wide by 1/4" deep from top to bottom. At 90 degrees to it (side
to side), cut a 1/8" high by 1/4" deep notch.

• Round off the top and bottom of the peg dowel.

• 1/2" from the bottom, cut a notch in the peg to match the board, 1/8" high by 1/8" deep.

• 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.

• Cut a piece of wood 3/8" x 3/8", 1/8" thick. This goes between the board and the peg.

• Glue and assemble the peg.

• Wrap it with artificial sinew.

• Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 1 1/2" up the board.

• Put resin/putty on the handle end going up 5".

• Make a small resin/putty ball and put it on the end of the handle.

North Queensland Woomera 2

Woomera from the Ngadjonji tribe in northeastern Queensland in northeastern Australia.

This one is a LOT of guesswork. All I had to go by was a small picture from the internet and what little I know
about Queensland-style woomeras.

Material:
Wood, 20" x 2" x 5/8"
Dowel, 3/8" x 4"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew

This is can be trouble, so I've broken it down with illustrations.

Construction:

• Trim the outline of the woomera as shown. 8" from the peg end, it should be 1 1/2" high.
• Round the sides to give it an elliptical shape.

• Cut a "V"-shaped groove down the peg end. It should be 3/8" wide by 1/4" deep.

• Round off the top and bottom of the dowel.

• 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.

• Glue and assemble the peg.

• Wrap it with artificial sinew.

• Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 1" up the board.

• Put a ball of resin/putty on the handle. Make it about 2" high and 1" wide.
 Queensland Woomera 1

Woomera, from Cape York, Queensland in northeastern Australia. This is an unusual style that it is very thin from
side-to-side, but very high in the middle. This is typical of those from Cape York.

Material:
Wood, 24 1/2" x 3" x 5/16"
Dowel, 3/8" x 3"
(2) Clamshells/plastic
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew

This is can be trouble, so I've broken it down with illustrations.

Construction:

The Board

• Shape the board. At 10" from the peg end it is 3" high, tapering to 3/4" at the peg end.

• On the handle end, it tapers to 5/8" about 2" from the end, then cut out a block slightly smaller than your
clamshells/plastic. This gives the resin something to bind to.

• Round the edges and sand smooth.

• Thin the peg end to 1/8" wide.

• Cut a notch on the peg end 1/4" from the top. The notch should be 1/8" high and 1/4" deep (see picture
below).

The Peg
 • Round off the top and bottom of the dowel.

• Starting 5/16" from the bottom, cut a groove 1/8" deep, 1/8" wide, and 3/4" high. This fits on the end of the
board.

• Cut a notch in the peg to match the board, 1/8" high by 1/8" deep.

• 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.

• Cut a piece of wood 3/8" x 3/8", 1/8" thick. This goes between the board and the peg.

• Glue and assemble the peg.

• Wrap it with artificial sinew.

• Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 3" up the board.

The Handle

• Put resin/putty on the handle end going up 6 1/2".

• Put resin/putty on the handle block, going up about 1/4" on both sides.

• Use two clamshells or pieces of plastic approx. 3 1/4" x 2 1/4". Put them on the resin/putty on either side,
making them even.

Australian Kunjolio
 This style is called a Kunjolio by the Kakadu people, northen coastal tribes, Australia. It is very simple in design
and construction.

Material:
Dowel, 3/8" to 1/2", 40" to 45" long
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty

Construction:

• One one end of the dart, make a resin/putty grip. About 5" from the end, make a raised lip that goes all the
way around.

• On the other end, put a ball of resin/putty on and shape a peg at about a 30 degree angle.

The article about this atlatl can be found at http://www.sacred-texts.com/aus/ntna/ntna14.htm.

In addition, here are some images that I believe are this style, courtesy of Margie and Frank. These are from the
Smithsonian Collection.

Australian Palati

This style is called a Palati by the Kakadu people, northen coastal tribes, Australia.

Material:
Wood, 48" x 2 5/8" x 3/16"
Dowel, 5/8 x 1 1/2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Shape the peg end.

 • Shape the handle.

• Round edges and sand smooth.

• Using resin or putty, build a knob on the bottom of the handle. Try to make it fairly round.

• Taper one end of the dowel to a point. Cut the other end at a 60 degree angle.

• Glue the angled end onto the peg end of the board. Wrap it with artificial sinew and cover the wrapping with
resin/putty.

The article about this atlatl can be found at http://www.sacred-texts.com/aus/ntna/ntna14.htm.

Cape York Woomera 2

This is based on a Cape York woomera I have, but I altered it to make it possible to carve out of a piece of lath.
There are a lot of steps involved here, but this one is a breeze to cut out and make. The binding for the peg was on
the original.

Material:
Wood, 23 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/8"
Dowel, 3/8" x 2 1/4"
Artificial Sinew

Construction:

• Carve out the handle (these dimensions are all approximate, make it fit your own hand). Starting about 2"
from the end, carve it down from both sides to 7/8" wide 5" from the handle end. Taper it back out to the
edges about 10" from the handle end. Round off the end of the grip.
• Taper off the peg end. Starting about 7" from the end, carve it down from both sides so it's 3/4" high at the
peg end.

• Round off all the edges. On the wide part of the body, it should come to a point on the top and bottom sides;
on the grip, it should be more rounded. Don't do anything to the peg end.

• Cut a groove in the end of the peg end. It should be about 1/8" wide by 1/8" deep.

• About 1/2" from the peg end, drill (2) 1/8" holes. The sinew will go through these. Try not to come too close
to the edges or each other.

• Sand off all the edges.

• Carving the Peg. There are 4 things you need to do to the peg.

1. Round off the top and bottom of the peg.

2. About 3/8" from the top of the peg, cut a groove for the spur. Don't go too deep.
3. On the side opposite the spur, cut out a groove for the sinew wrap to sit in. It only has to be 1/16"
deep or so, enough so that the sinew won't slip.
4. On the bottom of the peg (the end away from the spur), carve the peg into a "V" shape. This goes
into the groove on the board. Make sure everything is lined up properly before you go too deep. The
spur should face directly forward.
 • Glue the peg in place. One you're sure it's in the right spot, start wrapping it with the sinew. Just keep going
through the holes and around the back. This is a VERY secure way of fastening it.

Arnhem Land Woomera 1

Australian woomera, from Arhnem Land.

Material:
Wood, 34" x 1 3/4" x 5/8"
Dowel, 5/16" x 2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty

This is can be trouble, so I've broken it down with illustrations.

Construction:

• Starting 16" from the handle end, taper the sides to 1" wide on the peg end.
 • Starting at the same place, taper the top and bottom to 3/8" thick at the peg end.

• Round off the bottom of the grip, leaving about 5/8" in the middle.

• From 4 1/2" to 7" from the base of the handle, cut out the grips. Leave 1" between the sides.

• Round the top and sides to give it an elliptical shape.

• Sand it smooth.

• Taper/point one end of the dowel.

• Using resin (or the easier-to-find water putty), put a mass on the last 1" of the peg end and insert the peg. It
should be at about a 15 degree angle. Let harden.

No Plans, Just Pictures

These are ones where I've found drawings and some information in books, but have no real plans for them. If
anyone wants to try making them and send in the design plans, great!

Found at Baylor Rock, Texas. Length unknown.

 Mexican atlatl. Length 22".

Found at Lovelock Cave, Nevada. Length unknown. Hook was a separate piece, slid over the end.

Found at Chavez Cave, New Mexico. Length unknown.

Found at Key Marco, Florida. App. 18" long.

Found at Roaring Springs, Oregon. Possibly 20 1/2" and 27 3/4".

Southwestern U.S. atlatl. Approx. 24".