instructables

Variable Breadboard Power Supply

by Makertronics

Power supplies are the most basic tool every DIY / maker
/ electro-enthusiast should have. While the lab bench
power supplies are great but you can't carry them
everywhere and that's why you need a portable power
supply, but they are generally restricted to 12-volt & 5-
volt battery pack and to create a variable supply from
that you need some circuitry which consumes some
space in the breadboard. Also, the variable supply made
with LM317 type linear regulator can't provide enough
current, and because it is a linear supply it wastes a lot of
energy and can't provide output voltage greater than
the input.
In this Instructables, I am going to show how I created a
portable compact and e cient variable power supply
that can provide from 0 volts to 30 volts with 1.5
amperes using very few components.

https://youtu.be/yLpyLIohAkA

Step 1: Supplies

3 Digits Digital Voltmeter

XL6009 Buck Boost Module
7805 Regulator SMD
10K Ohm Potentiometer
10uF / 100uF Electrolytic Capacitor

Variable Breadboard Power Supply: Page 1

 10nF Ceramic Capacitor
Male/Female 2.54 Headers
SPST Power Switch
5mm LED and Resistor
DC Barrel Jack
12V AC/DC Adapter

and some 3D Printer Parts.

For PCB Manufacturing (If you preparing PCB yourself)

A4 Glossy sheet
Copper Clad
FeCl3
Marker and Laser Printer

Step 2: Circuit / Schematic Design

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As Most of the circuits use 5 Volts so we are going to include a constant 5-volt rail which will also power the voltmeter
and the second rail will have the variable supply and for that, we are going to use XL6009 Buck-Boost Converter Module,
which can convert input ranges from 3V-24V to 1.5V-30V. This range is pretty much all we need from a power supply in a
general scenario.

Step 3: PCB Design in Eagle CAD

We are going to use Eagle CAD to convert our schematic
to PCB, as later we are going to use the PCB le for
creating the enclosure for our project so we will also add
3D models of all the components using the Eagle CAD's
managed Library feature we can also add external 3D
Models for components and there are a ton of
preloaded 3D les on library.io platform associated with
Eagle CAD's Components 3D Model editor.
If you want to learn more about manipulating 3D
components there are some awesome tutorials at Eagle
CAD's Youtube Page
Breadboard so as to accordingly space the headers will
fall into the power rails of the breadboard.
Also, we will leave the space in between the rails so we
are able to use those points.
There are two sizes of breadboard available in the
market, I have made this version for the smaller one as
they are widely available in my local area. But if you want
to make one for the larger ones you just need to edit the
dimensions outline of the .brd le given below
according to your breadboard size.

For the design, we will need the dimensions of the

Step 4: Exporting 3D Model of the PCB

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Fusion Sync feature available in the Eagle CAD allows you to directly export the 3D model of the PCB to the Fusion 360
project and also the same 3D model will be refreshed as you work upon it later.
No worries if you don't have Fusion 360, Eagle also allow to export STEP le of the PCB which can be imported in pretty
much all the 3D Modeling software.
After getting the PCB File in Fusion 360 I created a case for the same.

Step 5: PCB Manufacturing

To Manufacture the PCB you can use any prototyping
service like JLCPCB, PCB Way, or OSH Park with this
Gerber le. It's just a matter of a week or two when you
receive your PCB you can continue with it. But due to
some time constraints, I choose to go manufacturing
PCB on my own using Toner Transfer Method. If you
know it already or you are going to use any service
mentioned above, then you can skip the steps below.
So rst we need to have a PCB in the desired shape for
which we need a print of the design to have the outline,
to do so go to File Menu and click print, and set the
monochromatic and position on A4 sheet.

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Step 6: Preparing the Copper Clad

Print a rough print for reference then mark an outline on
the copper-clad and cut it out using a hand saw or
Dremel. It's a little tricky to cut out the internal cavity if
you don't have Dremel. You can also use a wire saw for
this purpose.
After you get the rough shape, llet the corners using a
le to create nice rounded corners.
to continue with the toner transfer process you need a
clean PCB as copper gets easily oxidizes in air, use some
high grit sandpaper to clean/remove the top oxidation
layer till you see shiny copper.

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Step 7: Toner Transfer

Print the same circuit on glossy paper, don't invert while

minutes.
printing as the layer we are going to print is of the back
Now put the print in water to soak for a while (carry it
layer and after the transfer, it inverts itself. carefully as because of the last step copper will be quite
hot).
Align the clean copper piece on the print such that it After soaking remove the glossy sheet from the paper,
covers all the printed area and use some masking tape to and you will see only the ink sticking to the copper
stick it so it doesn't get misplaced during the process. which will prevent the copper from etching in the next
Use some hot plane surface like clothing Iron, or hair process.
straightener and press the PCB with it for at least 5-10

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Step 8: Correcting the Errors

There might be chances some of the traces got broken during the removal of soaked paper, no need to worry until a
major portion of the print is missing.
To correct the missing traces you can use a permanent marker to join the traces according to the design le.
Similar to toner, a layer of permanent marker ink also prevent the etchant to remove the copper.

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Step 9: Etching

Now you are ready to etch the PCB, take some FeCl3
solution or powder and add a little hot water to speed
up the process or you can also put the container on
some hot plate to speed it up, and agitate it.
It will roughly take 15-20 minutes to etch away 1-ounce
copper.
Once the etching is nished rinse the piece with water
and clean the toner/permanent marker layer with some
acetone(nail polish remover).
Now you can drill the holes for through-hole
components with a 0.8mm drill bit. To make holes for DC
Barrel Jack create two-three adjacent holes.

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Step 10: 3D Print the Case

It is a 2-hour print without any supports (overhangs on both sides are designed at 45 degrees), there will be some
bridging to avoid supports so make sure to adjust the parameters of your 3D Printer according to that.
You can also print the knob for the potentiometer, it is designed for the shaft of 4mm diameter.
STEP File for the project is also included in case you want to tweak some parameters.

View in 3D Download

https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FEH/NAHL/KKML1RWV/FEHNAHLKKML1RWV.stl

View in 3D Download

https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F7J/UTOC/KKML1RWW/F7JUTOCKKML1RWW.stl

View in 3D Download

https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FCY/J0W8/KKML3C00/FCYJ0W8KKML3C00.step

Step 11: Changing the Potentiometer

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The Trimpot (Multiturn potentiometer) on XL6009 is
quite tiny to control independently, which means you
need a minus screwdriver to rotate it. so we will remove
it will a normal potentiometer. It will de nitely reduce
the precision of controlling the output voltage but
change the voltage won't be any hassle. Or you can
implement the same design with a full-size multi-turn
potentiometer.
I desoldered the trimpot and solder a JST connector in
place of that and a soldered a compatible connector to
the potentiometer. You can skip of all these and directly
solder the potentiometer with wires to board.

Step 12: Soldering XL6009 Module

The circuit is designed such that the electrolytic capacitor lies beneath the XL6009 module which is the reason why we
need to use some female headers to provide appropriate height to the module.
Cut 4 Female Headers and rst add them to the module and use it as a jig to hold the pieces while soldering, this will
ensure that the module will t the headers even after removing it.

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Step 13: Soldering the Headers

As this being a single-sided PCB, soldering male headers
on such that it protrudes on the other side is a little
tricky, you need to push it from the top like other
components and then using a plier push the remaining
on the top to the other side (so the length of pin
available to insert in breadboard is enough), then solder
all of them from behind as can be seen in images.
After this solder the wires to the board which will be
used for the switch and connecting to banana
connectors, you could also use a JST connector here but
it should be a right-angled one as the height between
PCB and XL6009 module isn't enough to hold a verticle
JST connector.

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Step 14: Assemble Voltmeter & Potentiometer

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After completing the soldering for all the components
it's now time to assemble everything together.
The Voltmeter will need M1.5 bolts, just put the
voltmeter in the slot and tighten the bolt. If you can't
nd the appropriate size use a glue gun to stick it in
place.
Thereafter solder the wires of the voltmeter to board. If
the connecting wire seems too long then cut it to 8-10
cm length then solder it.
Black is the ground, Red is for 5V and yellow is for
Voltage Measuring from left to right.
Now insert the potentiometer soldered before in the
solder next to the voltmeter and tighten the nut from
outside.

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Step 15: Add Banana Connectors

The slot in the side is perfectly sized for the nut that came with the banana connector so insert the banana connector
from the top and introduce the nut from behind and rotate the connector, it will tighten automatically.
To connect the wires to the banana connector strip the wire and introduce them just before the nut is about to tighten
completely between the nut and the body.

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Step 16: Closing the Enclosure

Now that everything is installed from the inside, close the enclosure and tighten it will some 2mm screws.

While closing the enclosure make sure to bring out the wires for switch, as the switch will be soldered outside and then
inserted.
If DC Barrel Jack isn't tting perfectly in the slot, use a le to remove away the material from side and try to t it again.

Step 17: Add Switch & Potentiometer Knob

Add some heat shrink of appropriate size to the wires in order to prevent the switch connectors from shorting inside the
enclosure. Solder the wires and heat the shrinks.

After that press- t the switch inside the slot.

Variable Breadboard Power Supply: Page 15

Step 18: Woohoo! You Have a Variable Breadboard Power Supply

Finally, you got a power supply that is portable, variable, and can also be used externally without the breadboard with
the banana connectors.
You can also connect any lipo battery, AC/DC adapter, or USB to Barrel jack cable to provide supply to it.

If you face any di culties in replicating this, do comment below and I will try to help with it.

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