Pattern information

This sewing pattern is based on coats seen in several fashion magazines published in 1908
(e.g.: “Der Bazar” – Berlin and “Wiener Hausfrau” – Vienna).
The single breasted coat has moderate puffed sleeves, princess seams and features a slim
silhouette around the waist. Compared with modern coats it has a high bust point to be
worn over a straight front corset. By lowering the bust point and adding some extra width at
the waist, the pattern can be adapted for a modern fit without a corset underneath.
I recommend sturdy jacket and coat fabrics from wool or wool blends.
The front and collar are stiffened with hair canvas or alternatively you can use a midweight
to heavy linen fabric. The canvas is pad stitched to the lapel and collar, a technique still used
today in tailoring men´s jackets. If you prefer a lighter-weight fabric, not typically suitable for
pad stitching, flatline with midweight cotton or silk organza. A waxed and slippery light
cotton fabric as sateen was commonly used for lining coats and jackets.
The “turn of cloth” has not been allowed for when patterning the lapel but was added to the
upper collar pattern piece. The pattern provides no shoulder padding.
5/8” (1,5cm) seam allowance is included, except where noted on individual pattern pieces.
Transfer all markings and notches carefully before cutting the fabric. Always do a mock-up
first.

Sewing techniques: From 1900 nearly every household owned a straight stitch sewing
machine. At that time, many garments were already being produced in large factories.
However, classic tailoring techniques will give this jacket a special charm. Feel free to use the
sewing machine for long seams, as you will have many other opportunities to hand sew
throughout the garment´s construction.

Stitches: back stitch, button-hole stitch, catch stitch, fell stitch, pad stich and hem stitch

Back stitch
Fell stitch

Catch stitch
Pad stitch
© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915
1
Flatlining: for a classic flatlining, cut the lining fabric (cotton or silk organza) from the same
pattern piece as the fashion fabric piece, including all seam and hem allowances. Line up the
two layers, wrong sides together, smooth out and baste together inside the seam allowance.

From here on the two layers will be treated as one layer of fabric. In contemporary patterns
flatlining is often replaced with a fusible interfacing. However, traditional flatlining provides
some advantages. For example there is no chance of adhesive harming your fashion fabric
and the seam allowances from the collar, lapels and stripes can be stitched dot the flatlining
with a catch stitch to hold them in place without stitches being visible on the right side.

Basting: No one likes basting, but it´s important for a historically accurate sewing process. In
the end, basting is a time-saver.

Preparing fabrics and canvas: Pre-wash all washable fabrics and press. Steam non-washable
fabrics and hair canvas, use a press cloth for delicate fabrics and wool. Prewashing and
steaming your fabrics will protect them from shrinking later.
If you are using hair canvas, interface the entire front piece. The side front piece only needs
interfacing from the waistline up (see light grey areas on the sewing pattern). If you are
using flatlining, line the entire side front piece.
Light grey area: hair canvas
Dark grey area (back): midweight cotton fabric

Bridle tape: Stay tape such as bridle tape or another ¼” to 3/8” (ca. 1cm) wide lightweight
cotton tape is used by tailors, to cover the edges of the hair canvas. Modern bridle tapes can
be ironed on, although classically it´s sewn-on. Twill tape is also suitable

Sewing instructions
(1) Cutting the fabric: Cut all pieces from fashion fabric, interfacing and
lining. Transfer all notches and marks.

When cutting the front facings (#1a) add width for the turn of cloth and
roll line. To do so, cut the pattern along the roll line (a) and depending on
your fabric thickness shift parallel 1/16” to 1/8” (2-3mm) (b). Around the
lapel from collar notch to mark (x) add another 1/16” to 1/8” for the
“turn of cloth” (c).

To cut the backs from fashion fabric cut off the dark grey strip indicated
on the pattern.

On the left back lining, trim back the fabric along the vent edge as indicated on the pattern.
Trim back the hem allowance of 3cm at all lining parts.

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

2
When cutting the sleeve lining, add 1”
(2,5cm) at the armpit vertically (1), at the
front sleeve seam 5/8” (1,5cm) vertically, ¼”
(0,5cm) horizontally (2), at the back sleeve
seam ¼” (0,5cm) vertically and horizontally
(3).

(2) Flatline the upper part of the back and side back
(dark grey area). With wrong sides together, baste
the lining to the fashion fabric inside the seam
allowances, leaving the bottom edge loose.
Join back and side back parts, right sides together,
sewing from top to bottom.

Turn in the seam allowance of the right back piece along the vent edge (d) and line up both
back pieces, right sides together. Stitch down the center back seam until reaching mark (6),
pivot and keep sewing along
the top edge of the vent,
reducing the stitch length at
the corner.

Clip the seam allowance of the right back only at mark (6)
and press open the seam allowance from top to mark (6).
Turn in the vent facing of the left back piece along the center
back line and press (e), baste to hold the vent facing in place.
Catch stitch the raw edges of both vent sides to the top
layer, with tiny stitches, barely visible on the right fabric side
(f).

From the right fabric side, topstitch

diagonal from mark (6) towards the
left side to hold the top edge of the
vent in place.

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

3
(3) Mark the pocket opening on the right fabric side of
the side front piece with basting threads. Baste a
rectangular piece of cotton fabric to the wrong side,
covering the pocket opening.

Take the welts and fold in half lengthwise

with the wrong sides together, press. Pin
the welts to the right fabric side along the
marked pocket line with the raw edges
facing each other (g). Stitch along the
center of the straps, stitching starts and
stops exactly at the vertical marks (h).
Turn to the wrong side and slash the pocket opening Y-
shaped. Turn the welts through the slash to the wrong side
and press carefully from the right side.

Close the pocket opening with a catch stitch and fold the edge of
the side front to the side to reveal the small triangles of fabric on
each end of the welts. Stitch these triangles with the welts (i).

Pin the pocket without facing to the lower welt,

pointing towards the opposite direction of the
finished pocket.

Stitch close to the welt seam (j), then turn and press.

Stitch the facing to the rear pocket, right sides together,

matching all marks. Press the seam allowance towards the
pocket and topstitch from the right side. Pin the pocket to
the upper welt and stitch close to the welt seam. Assemble
the two pockets.

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

4
(4) Join fronts and side fronts, right sides together, matching marks.
Press open the seam allowances (For sizes US 20-30 (EU 46-56):
Close darts and press towards the bottom edge).

Take pieces from hair canvas and cut off the seam allowance along
the princess seam (seam between front and side). Sew together the
canvas pieces with a wide zigzag, without any overlap, catching a
bias tape underneath to reinforce the seam. (For sizes US 20-30 (EU
46-56): Cut out the dart.)

Baste the canvas to the wrong front

side of fronts, lining up seams and
markings (a) (For sizes US 20-30 (EU 46-56): Place the cut-out
dart of the canvas around the dart on the fashion fabric and
attach with some loose catch stitches (b).) Smooth out the
canvas over the shoulder.

Mark the seamline (c) on the canvas along bottom and front
edge, as well as along the lapel, ending at the collar notch (d).
Trim back the canvas only slightly behind the seamline. Mark
the roll line (e).

Pad stitch the lapel, starting about ¾”

(2cm) behind the roll line, folding the lapel
over your hands edge to give it the right
shape.

Attach a piece of bridle tape right behind the roll line, the tape
should lay quite tight (f). Pin another bridle tape loosely along
the seamline, covering the edge of the canvas. Starting at the
collar notch, continue along the front and bottom edge,
stopping at the side seam. Rotate the tape at the corners for a
neater result. Fell stitch the tape carefully to the fashion fabric
along the seamline (stitches should be nearly invisible from the
right side), fell stitch the edge vis-à-vis to the canvas only,
leaving loose along the side front piece (g). Mark the seamline
along the neckline and trim back the canvas only slightly
behind that line (h).

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

5
(5) Fold the front canvas to the side and stitch the shoulder seams, right sides together,
catching a narrow cotton tape at the front while sewing at the same time. Take care
matching up the seams exactly. Press open seam allowances and smooth out the canvas
over the shoulder seam.

(6) Under collar: Join under collar pieces along the center back seam, right sides together,
trim back seam allowances and press open. Cut canvas on the bias in one piece and line up
with the wrong side of the under collar. Mark stitching and roll line. Pad stitch the canvas to
the collar, fold around your hand´s edge to give shape. Press the collar, stretching top and
bottom edge while pressing, press in the roll line. Trim back the canvas only slightly behind
the stitching line.

Pin the under collar along the neckline, right sides together, and sew exactly from collar
notch to collar notch.

Clip the seam allowance of the front at the

collar notch, reaching the end of stitching (a).
Trim back the seam allowances along the
neckline to about 3/8” (1cm), clip at curves
and press open. Catch stitch the seam
allowance of the collar to the collar canvas (b),
catch stitch the seam allowance of the front
piece to the front canvas (c).

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

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(7) Take the back pieces from lining, and line up along the back edge,
right sides together. To form the fold (giving some extra room for
movement) stitch down along the back edge first (a), press open the
seam allowances. Then line up the backs again right sides together and
stitch down along the center back line (b), start stitching at the top,
when reaching mark (9) lock the seam, continue sewing with long
basting stitches (to be removed later) until reaching mark (10). Lock the
seam again and stitch down from (10) to the bottom edge with a
normal stitch length until reaching mark (6). Press the fold, lining up the
center back with the back edge seam.

Sew the side back pieces from lining to the back from lining, right sides
together and press open the seam allowances.

Stitch together front facing (fashion fabric #1a)) and side front lining,
right sides together, press the seam allowances towards the lining.

Close the shoulder seams (lining), right sides together, and press open the seam allowances.
Sew the upper collar to the lining along the neckline, right sides together. Again, stop and
start sewing exactly at the collar notch (see sewing pattern). Clip the seam allowance of the
front facing at the collar notch and press open the seam allowances along the neckline,
clipping along the curves (see under collar).

(8) Line up the Jacket and Jacket lining,

right sides together, clip the seam allowance
of the under and top collar towards collar
notch (c). Fold the small piece of seam
allowance downwards (b). Additional with
for roll line and seams is already taken into
account at pattern piece for the top collar.

Sew the collar first, stitching right beside the canvas on the seamline, starting and stopping
exactly at the collar notch. Don´t lock or backstitch, instead leave long threads tails at either
end to revise by hand easily if needed. Stitch with a reduced stitch length around the
corners.

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

7
Fold the small piece of seam allowance at the collar notch upwards again (b) and sew along
the lapel, front and bottom edge, right beside the canvas along the seamline. Start sewing
exactly at the collar notch (c), leaving long and loose thread tails. Sew down the front edge,
continue sewing around the curve until reaching the seam between front and side front.
Stitch seam with a reduced stitch length just before and after the corners.

Knot all loose thread tails at the collar notch,

thread a needle with the tail threads and
stitch in place. Unpick some stitches and
revise by hand if needed, working exact at
that point.

Trim back the seam allowances to ¼”-3/8” (7-10mm),

sloped at corners, clipping the seam allowance
where the collar starts turning (x).

Turn the seam allowances of collar and lapel

towards the canvas side and attach to the canvas
with a catch stitch.

(9) Turn the jacket to the right fabric side and press the edges carefully, with the seam
rolled slightly out of sight toward the underside at collar and lapel and rolled toward the
wrong garment side along front and bottom edge. Baste along the edges through all layers
to hold the edges in place. Turn down the lapel along the roll line and baste along that line
through all layers.

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

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(10) Place the jacket on your table, with the wrong side up. Fold the back lining upwards, line
up the seams of top and under collar
along the neckline. Stitch together the
seam allowances of the top and under
collar, right beside the collar seam. Fold
the side front lining to the side and sew
the loose edge of the front facing (#1a)
to the front canvas with loose felling
stitches.

(11) Close the side seams from fashion fabric, right sides together, without catching the
front canvas, and press open the seam allowances. Smooth out the canvas over the seam
and catch stitch to the seam allowances with some loose stitches. Close the side seam from
lining, right sides together and press open. Lining up the seams from fashion fabric and
lining, wrong sides together, bar tack the lining with some invisible stitches inside the seam
allowances to the fashion fabric along the waistline.

(12) Turn in the hem (hem allowance is 1 ¼” (3cm)) and press. Catch
stitch the hem in place with the stitches barely visible on the right
fabric side.

Turn in the seam allowances of the lining along the vent

(a), clipping at the corners (b). Line up the right lining edge
with the right vent edge, pushing the lining slightly behind
the edge of the fashion fabric to keep the lining out of
sight and fell stitch in place (c). Line up the left edge of the
lining with the indicated line on the pattern and fell stitch
in place (d).

Turn in a hem allowance of 3/8”

(1cm) along the bottom edge of
the lining and line up the edge of
the lining with the edge of the
hem facing. Fell stitch in place
with loose stitches.

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

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(13) Take the sleeve and close the front sleeve seam, right sides together, press open the
seam allowances. Mark the hemline on the wrong fabric side. Take a piece of hair canvas,
cut on the bias, about 2” (5cm) wide, line up with the hemline and baste in place. Close the
back sleeve seam, right sides together, don´t catch the canvas while sewing. Mark the sleeve
seam line on the canvas and cut off the
seam allowance. Slide ends under the seam
allowance of the sleeve seam and attach
with a catch stitch. Turn in the hem and
attach to the canvas with a catch stitch.

Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the sleeve head. Gather slightly and press the
sleeve head carefully into a rounded shape. Insert the sleeve into the armhole, right sides
together, matching all marks, fold the front canvas and lining to the side while sewing. After
stitching the sleeve, baste together all layers along the armhole inside the seam allowance
(lining, canvas and fashion fabric) and trim back to 3/8” (1cm) (a).

Line up a strip of wadding, circa 2”x5”

(5x25cm), with the seam allowance of the
sleeve head and baste inside the seam
allowance.

Take the sleeve lining and close all seams, right

sides together, press open. Turn in a seam
allowance of 5/8” (1,5cm) along the bottom
edge and fell stitch the lining to the sleeve 5/8”
(1,5cm) parallel from the hem, wrong sides
together, with the front and back seam
matching. At the armhole turn in the seam
allowance of the lining, fold over the raw edges
of the armhole and fell stitch in place, lining up
the edge with the seam. Along the sleeve head
fold the excess width into small pleats (b).

(14) Sew buttonholes, the position of the uppermost and the lowermost button is given,
mark the others in between with regular intervals. Sew on buttons.

(15) Remove all basting threads and open the pockets.

(16) Sew on a narrow velvet ribbon parallel to the edge of the collar and lapel.

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

10
Size Chart misses
General information for historical patterns:

For all historical patterns which would be worn over stays or a corset, a reduction of waist
circumference of 1 ½” is considered in the pattern, according to the next smaller size. For
example, you wear a size 14 with a bust measurement of 36” and a natural waist of 30.5”,
but with a corset or stays your waist would be 29”. There´s no further adjustment of the
waist measurement needed.

Seam and hem allowance included.

Please always do a mock-up first.

EUR 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56
US 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Body height 66
Bust 31,5 33 34,5 36 38 39,5 41 43,5 45,5 48 50,5 53
Waist 26 27,5 29 30,5 32 34 35,5 38 40 42,5 45 47
Hip 37 38 39 40,5 42 43 45 47 49 51 53 55
Back length 16,5 16,5 16,5 16,5 16,5 16,5 17 17 17 17 17 17
Arm length 23 23 23,5 23,5 23,5 24 24 24 24,5 24,5 24,5 24,5
Upper arm circumf. 10 10,5 11 11,5 12 12 12,5 13,5 14 15 16 16,5
Back width 6 6 6,5 6,5 7 7 7,5 7,5 8 8 8,5 8,5
Neck circumference 13,5 14 14 15,5 15,5 15 15 15,5 16 16,5 17 17,5
all measurements in inch

EUR 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56
US 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Body height 168

Bust 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 134
Waist 66 70 74 78 82 86 90 96 102 108 114 120
Hip 94 97 100 103 106 109 114 119 124 129 134 139
Back length 41,4 41,4 41,6 41,8 42 42,2 42,4 42,7 43 43,3 43,6 43,6
Arm length 59,3 59,6 59,9 60,2 60,5 60,8 61,1 61,4 61,7 62 62 62
Upper arm circumf. 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 34 36 38 40 42
Back width 15,5 16 16,5 17 17,5 18 18,5 19,2 19,9 20,6 21,3 22
Neck circumference 34,6 35,2 35,8 36,4 37 37,6 38,2 39,4 40,6 41,8 43 44,2
all measurements in cm

© 2015 by Black Snail Patterns #0915

11
 #0915 Edwardian Coat Size US 20-30 (EU 46-56)

#1
Recommended fabric: tweed, woolen cloth, jacket/coat fabrics #2
Fabric required: 4.4yds. (4m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
Lining: 3.3yds (3m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
Front canvas: 1.6yds (1.4m) with a width of 35“ (90cm)
Back lining: 0,5yds. (0,5m)

#5a
4 buttons Ø 3/4“ (2cm)

#4
Pieces:
#5

#1 front: cut 2 fabric + 2 canvas

#1
#2
#1a

#1a front facing: cut 2 fabric

#1
#6

selvedge

selvedge
#2 side front: cut 2 fabric + 2 lining

#2a
s
#2a: side front canvas: cut 2 canvas nva
ca
#3 side back: cut 2 fabric + 2 lining
#4 back: cut 2 fabric + 2 lining
#5 under collar: cut 2 fabric
#3

selvedge
fold of fabric

#11

#5a under collar canvas: cut 1 from canvas on fold fabric

selvedge
fold of fabric

#6 upper collar: cut 1 fabric

#2a
#7 upper sleeve: cut 2 fabric

#13
#8

#8 under sleeve: cut 2 fabric

#3

#9 pocket straps: cut 4 fabric

#9

#10 front pocket bag: cut 2 lining

#11 rear pocket bag: cut2 lining
#12

#12 rear pocket facing : cut 2 fabric

lin
#8

#13 sleeve hem: cut 2 canvas

#4

in
g
#7

5/8“ (1,5cm) seam allowance included,

blacksnailpatterns@gmx.at
hem and sleeve hem: 1 1/4“ (3cm)
#7

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Seitennaht