Pastry

&
Anthropology
Ramon Morató
Fanny Parise
Pastry & Anthropology
This year we’ve all experienced the drastic changes caused by
the pandemic that have impacted on our way of life, our work,
and our behaviour.
To understand these changes, the trends that might as a
consequence become more pronounced, and to be better
prepared to be able to support our chefs and their business
planning, Ramon Morató and his team have been working
closely with Fanny Parise, an anthropologist who is an expert in
this field. We’re now going to present to you the results of this
interesting project.
Anthropology is the science that strives to highlight the diversity
of cultures through the prism of human unity.
Although the post COVID-19 world will not be so different from
the one preceding it, the virus has already shown us the first
signs pointing towards new social trends.
Although still very low key, these trends are nonetheless having
an influence on our lives, turning the experience of shopping and
consumption on its head.
The co-creative and repetitive process proposed by Ramon
Morato and Fanny Parise makes it possible to offer an
aspirational universe and recipes that serve as an example for
exploring the new social problems that we’re all going to
have to face.

It’s a discipline that decodes the present so as to see our reality

in a different way (the principle of decentring) and to provide us
with better projections for the future.
The current crisis is viewed as a rite of passage by
anthropologists, a transition towards new ways of living.
Understanding the impact of this phenomenon on our western
societies becomes a cultural necessity.
Understanding makes it possible to get one jump ahead. Getting
one jump ahead is a guarantee of survival (in human and social
terms, and also in business).

Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 3
Tomorrow: what will tomorrow’s pastry be like, and
what sort of societies will they serve?
Each dessert offered by a pastry (all the way from the one in
a small village to the one in a big city location) has a symbolic
weight, and its own history. In the same way as with language,
culinary and confectionery habits can be linked to a vision of the
world. They are a part of the way that people see themselves
and their lives through a fundamental link between the
individual and the collective. The pastry even becomes a mirror,
reflecting a society, and how lifestyles evolve within it.
Eating isn’t quite as simple
as it seems...
Eating is a symbolic act. The ‘principle of incorporation’ is
the belief that by incorporating what is eaten, certain of the
qualities attributed to what has been consumed are assimilated.
Physiological need, social need, and symbolic need are all
intertwined. As result, no culture exists that does not set rules
and establish a normative framework centred around food.As C.
Lévi Strauss explained, food needs to be “not only good to eat,
but also good to think”. This social dimension of the consumer
has an impact on the productive and commercial system of
every society. For C. Fischler, “if we do not eat everything that is
biologically edible it is because not everything that is biologically
edible is culturally edible”: when we incorporate a food, we are
by analogy incorporating the real or imaginary, positive or
negative qualities that we attribute to it.
Today, the agrifood system produces more and more processed
foods, out of tune with the “naturalness” that it aims to
guarantee and that is sought by the individual.
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB
To reduce the gap between the desired ideal of a "healthy" So what sort of society do
we want to create for our
diet and the reality of their day to day lives, the individual uses
psychosocial strategies to lighten their mental load and, by
extension, make their everyday life and food more enjoyable. tomorrow?
In keeping with this logic, food has a moral interest: food
choices and consumer behaviour are sanctioned by
The pastry, a mirror reflecting our society.
judgements linked to social, cultural, and religious norms.
The exceptional times that we are all living in has fuelled some
The moral status of certain foods sometimes undergoes massive
of the weak signals that have for several years been helping us to
changes, as is the case with sugar, which is in turn demonised
redesign the whole experience of buying and consuming pastries.
and lauded for its essential characteristic: its link with pleasure.
Across the board, certain food contradictions are becoming major
issues for this sector, linked to the new expectations of customers
and consumers. Let’s take a look at the most significant: the
aspiration to localism in the face of increasingly globalised food
To consume is to choose production, the appreciation of seasonal ingredients despite the
a product, a good,
attraction of exotic ingredients, the practicality/ quality duality,
the balance between tradition and new food ethics, the alliance
a mode of production, between pleasure and health, the experiential search that
an economic model. extends to daily consumption, the diversity of supply through
the prism of the boom in mono-products, the democratisation of
home delivery in the face of an increase in the number of meals
consumed outside the home, etc.
This moralisation of eating and consumption may even reveal a
desire to moralise the economic system itself. Let's take a simple
example, like buying some chocolate.
In a shop, there are four different bars of chocolate: a bar
containing genetically modified fruit, an organic bar produced by
fair trade agriculture, a bar produced in a country governed by a
dictatorship, and a vegan and/or even a raw cocoa bar. Looking
at all these options raises a question: is there such as thing as
a neutral bar of chocolate? Each of these products represents a
mode of production, an economic model and therefore also a
particular model of society.
Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 5

Pragmatically, three key
concepts allow us to
better understand the new
complexity that the pastry will
have to face in order to adapt
to these social changes:
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB
1. The domestic hub
The crisis has established the home as the last social refuge, and
has precipitated the democratisation of the new ways of doing
things that make for a different type of society: teleworking,
home deliveries, a renewed interest in things that can be done at
home (DIY, sewing, etc.).
The home becomes the focal point for social interaction,
reconnecting with how things work in agricultural societies.
2. The new brand nostalgia
Lockdown has given rise to new social aspirations, but can
we really disconnect ourselves from the consumer society?
The current crisis seems to be the breeding ground for a new
relationship with consumption: one that is more ethical, more
solidarity-based, more respectful, and more ecological. Will
there really be change in the way we do things? Will our brand
relationships change?
3. The phygitalisation* and virtualisation of
the customer experience
The rollout of numerous online solutions does not necessarily
make for a smoother customer experience; in fact it can
even make for a more complex one. Containment marks the
beginning of a *phygitalisation of lifestyles, brands are now
moving into virtual universes, a symbol of the potential of a new
Golden Age of consumption.
Somewhere between the ideas of pleasure, commensality* and
the French art of living, the pastry needs to evolve at the same
pace as the surrounding society if it is to continue to be a part of
people's daily menu.
The pastry of tomorrow
Faced with these upheavals that represent so many What sort of look do we want to give the pastry of
opportunities for innovation, we’ve been working hard on
building a consistency between these elements to (potentially)
tomorrow?
What role should (or shouldn’t) the pastry play in the emer-
offer desirable universes for the future of the pastry.
gence of a new food ethics, and the increasing moralisation of
To do so we’ve turned to ethnofiction*, that is bringing into food and eating?
play a set of conjectures (technological, economic, political,
In our opinion, the pastry of tomorrow can only be imagined
ecological, and anthropological), together with speculation
through its capacity to remain at the heart of our social lives
based on the cumulative knowledge of the human and
(in terms of both the in-store experience and the eating of the
social sciences.
product at home), reconnecting us through its anthropological
The ethnofiction*is presented as a narrative, and is shaped function of sharing and communion. Confectionery must not
by the development of concepts in the form of recipes. only be political or good for health, it must continue to be a sour-
This creative act becomes a bridge between reality and ce of pleasure and happiness, both individual and collective.
potential futures.
Here, the imaginary is exploited as a space that is conducive to
the globalisation of inventions (technological and social, and in
processes, services, and marketing) and/ or to their circulation
so that they become social innovations. In a sense it’s a way of
showcasing the product in advance.
The future is unpredictable, but imagining it allows us to
look at our own reality in a different way, and to give a new
meaning to our actions, which will shape tomorrow.
These proposals concerning the universe that we have carefully
considered are articulated through the themes of sharing and
*commensality, of responsibility and sustainability, of health
and happiness to lead us to collectively reflect on tomorrow's
food ethics.
*Commensality: the practice of eating together with one or more other people.
*Phygitalistion: the merging of the physical with the digital in the shopping experience.
Sociofuge*: space that promotes social isolation, and in which the individual feels secure.
Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 7

Welcome to the future, a future
that is almost with us, and
that we must write together,
starting from now!
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB
The great
pillars of each
universe
1 2
1. Slow
Pastry
Pastries that are good to
eat, but that are also and
above all good at promoting
an ultra-localism made
possible by digital technology.
Transparency becomes the
watchword, thanks to the
alliance between tradition
and modernity. In search
of consistency, the aim is to
offer a pastry that will once
again become a symbol of the
identity of a particular place.
Tomorrow’s
domestic hub
A pastry that becomes the
forerunner of a dialogue
between chef and customer.
That reflects the values of
both the establishment and
the customer by personalising
each dessert, and creating a
perfect customer experience.
And one that adapts to
every occasion, and to all the
different moments in our lives.
3 4
The Universal The nutritious
pastry Pastry
A search for *commensality in A pastry that reconciles the
the face of the increase in the extremes: pleasure and health,
number of specific diets and the destructuring of meals,
the growing individualisation and the conservation of the
of meals. By valuing difference tradition of the dessert. By
as a positive identity marker,
the aim is to make ultra-
becoming the focal point at
the heart of the meal and
personalisation compatible developing nutritional value,
with festive moments that are the pastry reflects a new
shared with others (through image of those who don't
different product formats: large like to compromise in their
size/ individual portions/ mix of daily lives.
different product ranges).
Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 9
 A pastry shop that returns
1 to become a symbol
of identity of a territory
Slow Pastry
A good bakery to eat, but above all good thinking about promotion of
ultra-localism, made possible through digital technology.
Transparency becomes the watchword, thanks to the alliance between tradition
and modernity. In search of coherence, the aim is to offer a bakery that returns
to become a symbol of identity of a territory.

Fanny Parise

Antropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 11
With the paths we are now taking, if we dare to try and predict
the future, we think that pastry looks set to undergo a complete
rethink given the unprecedented ecological, health and
political situation.
In the future, the products offered by the "Grands Maisons" of
pastry may have to comply with new specifications, where the values
of anti-consumerism go hand in hand with an offering,
production and distribution claiming to be ultra-localist.
The carbon footprint of a product on the market will therefore have
to be as low as possible.
This means that seasonal products will be systematically incorpora-
ted, like many chefs do already, into pastry.
Chefs may offer desserts that are more sustainable in terms of
health, but also for producers and the planet, making pastry chefs
key players in the ecological and nutritional transition.
Summary
A new kind of pastry is coming, in which the most essential thing is,
of course, taste, but it will also be accompanied by values, health,
social responsibility and environmental responsibility through the
promotion of ultra-localism, possibly thanks to digital technology.
In the selection of ingredients, decisions will have to be taken, local
products will take precedence. But what will happen to products
that come from distant regions? The use of chocolate originating
from various tropical countries or yuzu, a citrus fruit from Japan?
In these cases, to justify use of the product, it may have to be uni-
que or tell a different story and, naturally, be of the highest quality.
And just like the other products, it will have to arrive at the kitchen
with values of respect for the planet and for the people who grow it,
as well as a carbon footprint that is as sustainable as possible.
Ultimately, transparency will become a key word, as a result of the
marriage between the traditional and the modern. In a quest for
consistency, it is about offering pastry that is again transformed
into a symbol of territorial identity.

All of this means:

1

A change in the supply of ingredients (local, national,
zero-mile products, etc.)

2

Promotion of ultra-local (add value to the environment,
the nearby landscape, etc.)

3

Search for substitutes or alternatives when the carbon
footprint is too high

4

Revitalisation of the local economy (good for you, good
for your community)

5



Virtuous economy: the search for strategies in favour of
the well-being of workers and/or the environment for
products that have to be exported

Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 13
01.
PETIT GÂTEAU
Local ingredients

Low carbon footprint impact

Transparency

INDIVIDUAL
Responsible economy

Proximity online shopping

272 Kcal per 100g

This is the first dessert of the four and the one that we have used as We flavoured the chocolate crème with fresh rosemary, which gives
a benchmark for developing the rest of the desserts associated with us grassy notes that help to round off the floral notes of the apricot,
the four pillars. orange and orange blossom water compote.
As an example, we decided to bring different textures to the classic
individual chocolate cake. To accentuate the local character of this Finally, for the chocolate mousse we used Saint-Domingue 70%
dessert, we combined a series of ingredients (fruits, herbs, nuts, etc.), Origin cocoa couverture chocolate, which is an intense but rounded
products from our region that claim to bring you closer to our land, couverture, with fruity and floral notes that combine very well with
the Mediterranean. the dessert's different ingredients. The cocoa beans used to create
In terms of the look, we have represented a hypothetical mathema- this unique chocolate are of 100% sustainable origin.
tical formula in which the different ingredients used can be seen:
SD referring to Santo Domingo 70% cocoa Origin chocolate, The dessert consists of:
almond and apricot.
Marcona Almond and Extra Virgin
In the combination of ingredients, we decided to include and show- Olive Oil financier
case fruit, making the percentage of fruit in the dessert very high,
Almond and cereal cris
tending towards a healthier pastry.
Specifically, we made a very fresh, low sugar compote from apricots Apricot, orange and orange
considering that we are developing this dessert in August and they blossom compote
Saint-Domingue 70% Origin chocolate
are in season. We added orange peel and Luca de Tena orange
blossom water, a hundred-year-old brand from Seville that extracts
and fresh rosemary crème
this water from fresh orange blossom.
Saint-Domingue 70% Origin chocolate
For the cake, we opted for an almond financier, a traditional cake mousse
from the world of French pastry that we have "Mediterraneanised".
Marcona almond from Lleida
It is very high in almonds and the flavour and texture combine very (Catalunya)
well with our apricot. Specifically, we used Marcona almonds from
Ecological apricots from
the Lleida area. The butter in the recipe has been substituted with
Plà de Lleida (Catalunya)
Siurana Extra Virgin olive oil, the idea being to use a healthier fat
with fewer saturated acids. Extra Virgin olive oil
of the Siurana denomination,
Reus, Tarragona (Catalunya)
For the crisp, we used pure almond paste and cereals with no added
Orange blossom water Luca de Tena,
sugar to lower the sugar content of the almond crumble as much as
Sevilla (Andalucía)
possible.
Saint Domingue Origin couverture,
100% sustainably origin cocoa beans

Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 15
 Petit Gâteau Individual
Recipe makes approx. 40 units measuring 6.5 cm in diameter and 3.5 cm high
Almond and olive oil financier
200 g Ground almonds with skin
436 g Icing sugar
160 g Plain flour
44 g Mixed-flower honey
430 g Egg whites
232 g Extra Virgin olive oil
ix the sugar and ground almonds
M dark couverture chocolate
together, then add the previously sieved
flour.
Add the honey and the egg whites, mixing
everything together.
Finally add the olive oil.
Spread out on a tray with a rim 0.6 cm
high.
Bake at 180/190 ºC.
Set aside.
Almond crumble
230 g Chilled butter
200 g Demerara sugar
200 g Ground almonds with skin
400 g Plain flour
C/S Cocoa butter Mycryo®
Cut up the butter.
Place all the ingredients in a food proces-
sor fitted with the blade.
Blend until you have a sandy texture.
Spread out on trays 60 x 40 cm and bake
at approximately 160 ºC.
Once baked, sprinkle with Mycryo® when
you take it out of the oven.
Almond crisp
122 g Pure almond paste with skin
28 g Cocoa butter
225 g Almond crumble
75 g Cereal flakes
Mix the pure almond paste with the
melted cocoa butter.
Add the rest of the chopped ingredients.
Pour around 10 g into 5.5 cm rings and set
aside.
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB
Chocolate and fresh rosemary crème
42 g Single cream
358 g Milk
25 g Fresh rosemary
40 g Sugar
96 g Egg yolk
2 g Gelatine leaves
112 g Saint-Domingue 70% cocoa mousse
40 g Cocoa liquor 100%
Heat the single cream and milk to 90 ºC
and infuse with the rosemary for 5
minutes.
Filter and weigh the liquid, add milk until
you have 400 g of liquid.
Make a crème anglaise by heating the
infusion with the sugar.
Stir and pour onto the egg yolks, ensure
correct pasteurisation and dissolve the
gelatine leaves.
Gradually pour over the couverture,
emulsify and pour around 10 g into 5.5 cm
discs and freeze.
Apricot, orange and orange blossom
compote
260 g Fresh apricots, diced
100 g Whole boiled orange sauce
100 g Apricot purée
100 g Sugar
40 g Honey
4 g Pectin NH
Boil the whole oranges for at least an hour
until the peel is well hydrated (change
the water approximately 5 times during
cooking).
Cut in half, remove the pips and pass
through the meat mincer until you have a
thick sauce.
Weigh out the required weight of orange
sauce and mix with the diced apricot, add
the apricot purée.
Heat the sugar and combine with the
pectin and the honey.
Boil for one minute, stop and set aside.
*For every 1000 g of compote, add 5 g
of orange blossom and 10 g of gelatine
leaves.
Pour around 35 g of compote onto the
frozen chocolate crème discs.
Saint-domingue origin chocolate
250 g Milk
25 g Inverted sugar
250 g Saint-Domingue 70% cocoa
dark couverture chocolate
100 g Cocoa liquor 100%
470 g Lightly whipped cream
Bring the milk and the inverted sugar to
a simmer.
Pour the cocoa liquor onto the couverture
and emulsify.
Check the temperature and when
everything is at around 40/45 ºC, combine
with the lightly whipped cream.
Assemble the cake immediately.
Assembly
Measure out a layer of chocolate mousse
in the bottom of the moulds.
Place the fruit compote together with the
chocolate crème.
Continue assembling, layering mousse
with financier discs cut to 5.5 cm that
have been soaked in olive oil and finally
the almond crisp.
Put in the freezer and once frozen, spray
with a mixture of 70% Saint-Domingue
Origin couverture chocolate and 30%
cocoa butter.
Decorate.
Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 17
Ramon Morató
Ramon was born in Manlleu, Barcelona into a family with no
connections whatsoever to the world of confectionery. After
completing his studies, Ramon Morató began his training in a
number of different establishments.
He combined his studies with numerous courses offered at the
school of the Barcelona Provincial Confectioners’ Association.
During a period of stages at several of the best Spanish
Fanny Parise
Fanny Parise is a French anthropologist, a specialist in
contemporary worlds and changing lifestyles. As a practitioner-
researcher, she develops academic research at the Institut
Lémanique de Théologie Pratique of the University of Lausanne
and private international expertise (Europe, Canada, Asia, Middle
East, Africa) with industrialists and retailers (mass consumption,
Web food, luxury, housing, mobility, health, hygiene, etc.).
www.cacao-barry.com

confectioners, he also went to important schools and technical www.ramonmorato.com She engages her research work in a process of scientific
centres such as ZDS Solingen, Germany and the Richard Conseil Instagram popularization thanks to her podcast Madame l'anthropologue,
school in Lyon, France. @ramonmorato to the Mythologies of the Future that she co-founded and to the
Twitter scientific transfer tools that she is developing under the brand
As the result of these years of work, and his ongoing desire for @ramonmorato_ name of her collective Magical Thinking®.
innovation, he published “RAMON MORATO Chocolate”. It won
the Best Cookbook in the World on the subject of Chocolate in
2007 at the distinguished Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

More recently, in December 2016 he published the book “Four

in One together” with chefs Raul Bernal, Josep Maria Ribé and
Miquel Guarro, on the occasion of the celebration of the 20th
anniversary of the Chocolate Academy in Barcelona. Web
madamelanthropologue.com
The possibility of connecting with many professionals in Instagram
different fields gave him ample knowledge of the craft and @madame_lanthropologue
helped him to realise his passion for teaching, researching and Twitter
creating products related with the world of confectionery. @FannyParise

In recent years, this has brought him to teach courses, seminars

and conferences all over the world, as well as special endeavours
such as a collaboration project with Harvard University through
the Alicia Foundation.
Currently he is Creative Director for the Cacao Barry brand.

Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 19
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 21
Pastry & Anthropology
Ramon Morató
Cacao Barry® Chef
Fanny Parise
Anthropologist

Appreciations:
Marta Trias
SAIA
Xavier González
Cacao Barry® LAB Chef