AMIDET®

SURFACTANTS FOR CONSUMERS APPLICATIONS

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 CONTENTS

1. AMIDET® N
· Product definition
· Product information
2. Main applications
· Thickener
· Emulsifier / Solubilizer
· Foam booster
· Mild & Skin compatible
3. Example formulations
4. Summary

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

1.
AMIDET® N
· Product definition
· Product information

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 AMIDET® N
PRODUCT DEFINITION

INCI name
TECHNICAL DATA
ACTIVE MATTER 91.5 – 93.5 %
VISCOSITY < 500 cP
WATER 6.5 – 8.5 %
pH (1 % IN WATER) 9.2 – 10.2
APPEARANCE Clear yellowish liquid

Properties
• Natural multifunctional liquid surfactant
• Environmentally friendly and preservative-free
AMIDET® N is easily

• High performance thickener and foam booster dispersed in water and

the formulations turn
transparent when other
• Strong solubilizer and emulsifier surfactants are used.

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 AMIDET® N
PRODUCT INFORMATION

Ecological and toxicological profile

AMIDET® N is a highly concentrated, low viscous ethoxylated fatty acid
alkanolamide.
It is based on renewable
European rapeseed oil, a
vegetable oil rich in C18
unsaturated fatty acid.

Its high concentration allows the

reduction of the carbon footprint
related to economic logistics and
transport.

ECOLOGY TOXICOLOGY
Aerobic biodegradation Readily biodegradable ACUTE TOXICITY LD50 > 2000 mg/kg
Anaerobic biodegradation Readily biodegradable SKIN IRRITATION H315: Skin irritation, category 2
Aquatic toxicity > 10 mg/l EYE IRRITATION No known critical effects
Suitable for European Ecolabel and “Nordic Swan”-labeled SENSITIZATION Non-sensitizer
formulations
GENE TOXICITY Non-mutagenic

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 AMIDET® N
PRODUCT INFORMATION

MAIN APPLICATIONS

FOAM BOOSTER /
THICKENER
Shampoo
Shower products
Liquid Soap

EMULSIFIERS
Bath additives

LATHERING
Shaving preparation

LEVELLING EMULSIFIERS
Hair colorants

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

2.
MAIN APPLICATIONS
· Thickener
· Emulsifier / Solubilizer
· Foam booster
· Mild & Skin compatible

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
THICKENER

Use of Alkanolamides • Alkanolamides:

thickening and foam
% shampoo launches containing alkanolamides boosting effect in
Wordlwide
60% cleansers.
45%
• Cocamide MEA and
30% DEA are the most
15%
widely used.

0%
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
• From 2012 the use of
Cocamide DEA
decreased quickly,
% shower product launches containing alkanolamides mainly in USA because
of Proposition 65.
40%

30%

20%

10%

0%
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
THICKENER

Cocamide DEA replacement

• From 2012 the use
of Cocamide DEA
% shampoo launches containing alkanolamides decreased quickly in
USA because of
60% USA
Proposition 65 in
shampoos and bath
50% products.

40%

30%

20%

10%

0%
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
THICKENER

Cocamide DEA replacement

• From 2012 the use
of Cocamide DEA
% shower product launches containing alkanolamides decreased quickly in
USA because of
50% USA
Proposition 65 in
45% shampoos and bath
40%
products.

35%
30%
25%
20%
15%
10%
5%
0%
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
THICKENER

Cocamide DEA replacement

• From 2012 the use
of Cocamide DEA
% shower product launches containing alkanolamides decreased quickly in
USA because of
50% USA
Proposition 65 in
45% shampoos and bath
40%
products.

35% • Cocamide MEA is

30%
still widely used. Its
drawback is that it is
25% solid at RT and
20% requires to work in a
hot process.
15%
10%
5%
0%
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
THICKENER

Cocamide DEA replacement

• From 2012 the use
of Cocamide DEA
decreased quickly in
USA because of
AMIDET® N Proposition 65.

• Cocamide MEA is
an outstanding alternative to still widely used. Its
Cocamide DEA and Cocamide MEA drawback is that it is
solid at RT and
requires to work in a
hot process.

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
THICKENER

Thickening ability
AMIDET® N offers excellent thickening properties comparable to Cocamide DEA.
The addition of inorganic salts can be reduced.

100000

10000
Viscosity (cP at 20 °C)

SLES
SLES
1000
SLES/Cocamide
SLES/CocamideDEA
DEA
100 ® N
SLES/AMIDETN
SLES/AMIDET

10

1
0 1 2 3 4 5
% NaCl

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
THICKENER

Thickening ability
AMIDET® N also shows thickening properties in some Sulfate-free
formulations, based on milder surfactant systems.

VERY MILD FORMULATION

INGREDIENT % w/w

AKYPO® RLM 45N 9

Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate

Decyl Glucoside 15
*THICKENER 5

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
EMULSIFIER / SOLUBILIZER

Usage of silicones in hair care

% shampoo launches
60% • In spite of rising
trend to a “silicone-
45% free” claim, the use
of silicones is
30%
widely-extended.
15%
• Emulsifiers are used
0%
to facilitate silicones
incorporation into a
formulation and to
% conditioner launches stabilize them.
80%
Wordlwide, shampoos
60% and conditioners

40%

20%

0%

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
EMULSIFIER / SOLUBILIZER

Usage of silicones in hair care

% shampoo launches
• It is undoubtedly
60%
time to bet for more
45% ecological, safer and
better-performing
30% emulsifiers.
15%

0%

AMIDET® N
% conditioner launches
80%
Wordlwide, shampoos
60% and conditioners

40%

20%

0%

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
EMULSIFIER / SOLUBILIZER

Incorporating silicones
• AMIDET® N helps to incorporate dimethicones into formulations.

• The blend of silicone, AMIDET® N and water (ratio 3:1:1) leads to a very
stable viscous gel.

• Prepare a premix of AMIDET® N with hydrophobic components to improve

the solubilizing and emulsifying effect.

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
EMULSIFIER / SOLUBILIZER

Sinergies in solubilization

• Prepare a premix of AMIDET® N with hydrophobic components to improve

the solubilizing and emulsifying effect.

• The combination of AMIDET® N, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

and water (ratio 12:7:1) acts synergistically.
• It improves the solubilizing effect.
• It allows the solubilization of large quantities of oils.

SOLUBILIZER 0.5% Jojoba Oil 2% Jojoba Oil

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Turbid / separation White / separation
Great results to
AMIDET® N Turbid / separation White / separation solubilize Jojoba
Oil, which is a
Blend Clear Clear difficult one

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
FOAM BOOSTER

Foam ability: quick and stable

AMIDET® N is particulary effective for SLES-based formulations, but it is also an
option for Sulfate-free systems.
.
• A little dosage of AMIDET ® N enhances the foam ability in the presence of
sebum or oil.
• It also increases the speed of foam formation.
Foam behavior. SLES/Thickener (10:2)
250
Foam height (mm)

200

150
Cocamide DEA
100
AMIDET® N
50

0
ROSS MILES
0 5 10 15 0.1% a.m.; 37 ºC; 15 dGH
Time (min)
KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N
 MAIN APPLICATIONS
FOAM BOOSTER

Foam booster for mixtures: SLES/CAPB

For each surfactant system, there is an optimum dosage of AMIDET® N.

Ross Miles Test:

Foam height after 30 s 0.1 % a.m.

215 15 dGH; 25 °C; pH: 6.5

210

205
3 SLES
Height (mm)

200
+
195
1 CAPB
190

185
+

180 AMIDET® N
175
The graph shows the foam
170 height depending on the
amount of AMIDET® N
00AMIDET
AMIDET® N
N 0.25 AMIDET
0.25 AMIDET®NN 0.50AMIDET
0.5 AMIDET® N
N 0.75AMIDET
0.75 AMIDET®NN

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
MILD & SKIN COMPATIBLE

Mild & skin compatible

• A high skin compatibility
under normal conditions of
use is a needful condition
for a cleanser.

• AMIDET® N shows much

better results with regard to
the irritation index than
typical alkanolamides.

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 MAIN APPLICATIONS
MILD & SKIN COMPATIBLE

Mild surfactant: mixtures with SLES

Red Blood Cell Test (Ocular Irritation Potential)
% SLES
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 • AMIDET® N is
30
milder than
Cocamidopropyl
25
Betaine.
MIOI values

20
• AMIDET® N
15 reduces the eyes
irritation level of
10
AMIDET N
SLES.
5 Cocamidopropyl Betaine

0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
% co-surfactant
KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N
% CO-SURFACTANT
3.
EXAMPLE
FORMULATIONS

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 EXAMPLE FORMULATIONS
HAIR CARE

SHAMPOO (REF. C-210)

INGREDIENT %
EMAL® 227E 29.6 Procapil™ 1
Sodium Laureth Sulfate Apigenin+Oleanolic Acid+Biotinoyl
Tripeptide-1
BETADET® S-20 7.5
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine Borago officinalis 0.2
DANOX® PL-10 4 Additives* q.s.
Pearlizing Concentrate
Deionized Water Up to 100
LEVENOL® H&B 2
Glycereth-2 Cocoate Appearance (20 ºC) Pearled Viscous Gel
AKYPO® FOAM RL40 3.3 pH (100%) 6.0 approx
Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate
Viscosity at 20ºC (cP) 16000 approx
AMIDET® N 2.1
PEG-4 Rapeseedamide
*Additives: Perfume, dyes, preservatives, etc.
Glycerin 1
Ucare™ JR-30M 0.3
Polyquaternium-10

Vitamin E Acetate 0.2

Dow Corning® 200F 350cts 0.5
Dimethicone

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 EXAMPLE FORMULATIONS
HAIR CARE

2-in-1 ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO (REF. C-152)

INGREDIENT %
EMAL® 270D 13.5 Zinc Pyrion 48% micronized 2
Sodium Laureth Sulfate Zinc Pyrithione

AKYPO® FOAM RL40 5 DANOX® PL-10 4

Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate Pearlizing concentrate

LEVENOL® H&B 2 Additives* q.s.

Glycereth-2 Cocoate
Deionized Water Up to 100
AMIDET® N 1
PEG-4 Rapeseedamide Appearance (20 ºC) Blue pearled
viscous liquid
Dow Corning® 200F 350cts 0.5
Dimethicone pH (100%) 6.0 – 7.0
TETRANYL® U 0.5 Viscosity at 20ºC (cP) 12500 approx.
Undecylenamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate (0.5 % NaCl)
Jaguar® C-162 0.1
Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyl TC *Additives: Perfume, dyes, preservatives, etc.

EDTA.Na4 0.2
Carbopol® ETD 2020 0.5
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ucare™ LR 400 0.2

Polyquaternium-10

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 EXAMPLE FORMULATIONS
HAIR CARE

BABY SHAMPOO (REF. C-168)

INGREDIENT %
AKYPO® RLM 45CA 7.9
Laureth-6 Carboxylic Acid

AMIDET® N 5
PEG-4 Rapeseedamide

OXIDET® L-75C 25
Cocamidopropylamine Oxide

Additives* q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100
Appearance (20 ºC) Transparent Liquid
pH (100%) 6.0 - 7.0
Viscosity at 20ºC (cP) 1450 approx.

*Additives: Perfume, dyes, preservatives, etc.

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 EXAMPLE FORMULATIONS
BODY CARE

SHOWER GEL (REF. C-209)

INGREDIENT %
EMAL® 270D 11.4 Preservative q.s.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Deionized Water Up to 100
AMIDET® N 6
PEG-4 Rapeseedamide Appearance (20 ºC) Clear Yellowish Gel

BETADET® HR 13.3 pH (100%) 5.5

Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Viscosity at 20ºC (cP) 8000
AKYPO® RLM 45 CA 4.3
Laureth-6 Carboxylic Acid

FINDET® AHR/52 3.5

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Glycerin 2
Sunflower Oil 0.7
Olive Oil 0.7
AculynTM 60 0.7
PEG-150 Distearate

Petrolatum 0.5
Jaguar® C-17 0.2
Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyl TC

UcareTM JR-30M 0.1

Polyquaternium-10

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 EXAMPLE FORMULATIONS
BODY CARE

BODY MOISTURIZING SHAMPOO (REF. C-167) BODY MOISTURIZING SHAMPOO (REF. C-170)
INGREDIENT % INGREDIENT %
EMAL® 227E 30 EMAL® 227E 30
Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate

AKYPO® RLM 45CA 2.3 AKYPO® RLM 45CA 2.3

Laureth-6 Carboxylic Acid Laureth-6 Carboxylic Acid

BETADET® S-20 4.2 BETADET® SHR 3.6

Lauryl Hydroxysultaine Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

LEVENOL® H&B 2 LEVENOL® H&B 2

Glycereth-2 Cocoate Glycereth-2 Cocoate

AMIDET® N 2 AMIDET® N 2
PEG-4 Rapeseedamide PEG-4 Rapeseedamide

Additives* q.s. Additives* q.s.

Deionized Water Up to 100 Deionized Water Up to 100
Appearance (20 ºC) Clear Viscous Liquid Appearance (20 ºC) Clear Viscous Liquid
pH (100%) 5.5 - 6.5 pH (100%) 5.5 - 6.5
Viscosity at 20ºC (cP) 6200 approx. Viscosity at 20ºC (cP) 7500 approx.
(0.9 % NaCl)
*Additives: Perfume, dyes, preservatives, etc. *Additives: Perfume, dyes, preservatives, etc.

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 EXAMPLE FORMULATIONS
BODY CARE

INTIMATE HYGIENE (REF. C-229)

INGREDIENT %

BETADET® HR 18.3
Cocamidopropyl Betaine

AMIDET® N 5.3
PEG-4 Rapeseedamide

AKYPO® SOFT100 BVC 4.3

Sodium Laureth-11 Carboxylate

EXCEPARL® LM-LC 0.6

Lauryl Lactate

Chamomile Extract 0.2

Additives* q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100
Appearance (20 ºC) Clear Liquid
pH (100%) 5.0 approx.
Viscosity at 20ºC (cP) 4000 approx.

*Additives: Perfume, dyes, preservatives, etc.

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

4.
SUMMARY

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 AMIDET® N
SUMMARY

NEW TRENDS TO ANSWER TO…

• Silicones are still widely used by manufacturers and emulsifiers help to
incorporate them.
• Some traditional thickeners may show some drawbacks:
- Cocamide DEA and its potential of nitrosamine formation.
- Cocamide MEA and the need of working in a hot process.

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 AMIDET® N
SUMMARY

AMIDET® N, MAIN FEATURES

• Thickening agent (Nitrosamines free) for SLES based formulations.

• Thickening agent for very mild SLES free formulations.

• Foam volume booster for SLES/Betaine.

• Emulsifier to help to incorporate silicones, oils, extracts…

• All these features are joined to an outstanding ecological and

toxicological profile. It is suitable for European Ecolabel and
“Nordic Swan”-labeled formulations.

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N

 THANK YOU
VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ATTENTION!

KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE | AMIDET® N