MET UA 527

CARLOS ARDILA

FOOD VOICE

I grew up in a middle class home. My parents originally from Teruel - Huila, Colombia,

during the last 40 years have moved throughout the state due to their jobs. They settled

in Rivera, Huila, my father, whose family owned cow farms, was a bank manager and

my mother was an elementary school teacher. First years in Rivera flash through my

mind, Rivera is a little town located in the center of the department near the mountains

and 20 kilometers far from the capital Neiva. The first flavors and smells that come to

my mind are those of sancocho soup. 30 years ago, was very usual that peasants

inviting the bank manager to their farm, it was a way of gratitude for his bank assistance

in their purpose of growing domestic crops. Weekends were fun, families enjoyed the

soup which contains among other ingredients: chicken, meat, potato, banana,

coriander, onion, and ahuyama - a kind of pumpkin, but salty. After visiting many

peasant farms, dad bought a farm. The farm was situated near mountains, 30 minutes

far from Rivera. Although my father had no experience, mom and dad had become the

hosts of family gatherings on weekends. Aunts, uncles, cousins came to the farm to

enjoy a good plate of “sancocho”. As soon as my father built the farm house, my mother

began to grow an organic garden. While I was playing with cousins, my mother picked

up some onions, tomatoes, and coriander from her garden. I was a desirous observer.

Rural aromas, especially of garlic, onion, chicken, and tomatoes, made us hungry.

Many of the ingredients to prepare the weekend family sancocho were collected from

the farm's organic garden. That was probably my first contact with organic food. At ten
years old, my parents moved to Neiva, the capital of the department of Huila. Forced to

buy a new house, they had to sell the farm. Saturday was the official market day in

Neiva. My parents took me to the central gallery for breakfast. Central gallery offered

fresh fruits and vegetables, but the smell of fish was so strong that it forced visitors to

take a walk around. Although chicken, meat and fish, made a strong smell, especially in

that site, we knew that would not dissipate over time. I remember only one smell so

awful, the smell of dried fish that it prevented me from even approaching it. Despite the

fact that most of the dweller visited it weekly, the disorder was evident and I could never

had breakfast there. I also remember when the first Asian restaurant was inaugurated in

the city; two of the most important and delicious options in the menu, were the Chinese

rice and the chop suey. That was my first contact with Asian Food, and I think I fell in

love with it.

I moved to Downtown Neiva in 2000, and my unadventurous routine were shaken up.

Alone in an apartment for the first time in my life, I heard young voices at the door, were

my cousins, they were ready to party in The San Pedro festival, which take place every

June in the city. While people enjoyed parades, families gathering at their houses to

prepare pork “asado”, seasoned with thyme, bay leaf, salt, garlic, onion, oregano, and

beer; roasted for half an hour over high heat, and served with arepas or tortillas.

On account of its varied agricultural production and the confluence of cultures, Huila's

gastronomy is abundant and diverse. The recipes, which have been extending through

many generations are part of the cultural identity of the state and attract tourists. The
most representative food are: Biscuits from achiras, arepas, tamal, masato, asado,

mojarra frita, and sancocho.

I miss my childhood. I miss mom's rural organic garden. In the city where I have lived for

more than 25 years is unusual to see an urban farm garden. Owing to the arrival of

large supermarkets, consumers prefer to buy products from them and not from farmers

who grow organic food. More than 15 years ago, farmers have been faced a crisis

caused by the importation of fruits and vegetables, this crisis has increased due to the

pandemic, but the government have tried to incentivize community to buy local

products. However, social distancing and confinement measures to limit the spread of

the virus have reduced people's incomes and, consequently, local and national demand

for food.

As a vital part of the chain, we are having a unique opportunity to adopt measures to

promote healthier diets, and strengthen collaboration among the public-health and

agriculture sectors. But making the changes necessary to fix the problems requires a

fundamental shift in attitude. If we want to improve our food system, we need to know

what has to change and how to make that happen.