Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Prepared By-
KAZI AL IMRAN
ID: 182-064-4111
MBA in Apparel Merchandising
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
Email: imranapm@yahoo.com
Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
A. Introduction:
The assignment is on production of T-shirt of knit fabric, so before
going to the production of the garments first we should know the
sequence of garments manufacturing, knitting process, yarn count,
about knitting yarn, knit dying process and related thing with
production. Below the garments manufacturing sequence and others
respectively are being described.
B. Background:
T-Shirts are durable, versatile garments with mass apparel that may be
worn as outwear or underwear. Since their creation in 1920, T-Shirts
have evolved into a two-billion-dollar market. T-Shirts are available in
a variety of colors, patterns, and styles, such as the standard crew neck
and V-neck, as well as tank tops and scoop necks. T-Shirt sleeves may
be short or long, capped, yoked, or raglan. Additional features include
pockets and decorative trim. T-shirts are also popular garments on
which to display one’s interests, tastes and affiliations using
customized screen prints or heat transfers. Printed shirts may feature
political slogans, humor, art, sports, as well as famous people and
places. T-Shirts are also inexpensive promotional vehicles for products
and special events.
T-shirts fit just about anyone in any size, from infants to seniors. Adult
sizes are generally small, medium, large, and extra-large, while sizes
for toddlers are detinned by month and weight. In addition, to
compensate for the larger hands of infants relative to their bodies,
shirts are specially designed with shoulder openings that may be
fastened with buttons or snaps.
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
C. Raw Materials:
The majority of T-shirts are made of 100% cotton, polyester, or a
cotton/polyester blend. Environmentally conscious manufacturers
may use organically grown cotton and natural dyes. Stretchable T-
shirts are made of knit fabrics, especially jerseys, rib knits, and
interlock rib knits, which consists of two ribbed fabrics that are joined
together. Jerseys are most frequently used since they are versatile,
comfortable, and relatively inexpensive. They also are a popular
material for applying screen prints and heat transfers. Some jerseys
come in tubular form, simplifying the production process by reducing
the number of seams. Rib knit fabrics are often used when a snugger
fit is designed. Many higher quality T-shirts are made of durable
interlock rib knit fabrics.
Neckbands add support to the garment and give the neckline of the T-
shirt a more finished look. Neckbands are generally one-by-one inch.
rib knits, although heavier fabrics or higher quality T-shirts may
require two-by-two rib knits. Neckband fabrics may be tubed rib knits
of specific widths, or flat fabric that must be seamed. Additional T-shirt
materials include tape or seam binding, made of a twill or another stiff
fabric. Binding reinforces the neckline and shoulder seams and by
covering the seams, it protects them from ripping apart under tension.
Alternatively, elastics may be used at the shoulder seams so they
remain flexible.
Thread is of course an essential element is sewing any garment. Several
types and colors of thread may be used to make a single T-shirt, some
manufacturers use white thread for seams on all their shirts, regardless
of color, thus eliminating the extra labor involved in changing the
thread. Visible topstitching is done with a color of thread that blends
with the fabric. Colorless, or monofilament, thread could be used for
hems of any color fabric, again eliminating the need to change thread
often, through monofilament thread may irritate the skin somewhat,
Finally, optional decorative features may include trim, such as
braiding, contrasting cuffs, appliques and heat transfer or screen print
designs.
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
Working Production
Sketch/Design Basic Block Basic Pattern
Pattern Pattern
Bundling/Sorti
Cutting Spreading Marker Making Grading
ng/Numbering
Assembling
(Sewing, Ironing & Final
Inspection Altering
Fusing & Finishing Inspection
Adhessive)
Despatch to
Bundling Packing
Wearhouse
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
3. Sample Making:
The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in
fabric from are used to sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment
manufacturing is to be done by a very efficient and technically sound
person.
4. Production Pattern:
The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making
production pattern. During production pattern making sometimes it may
be necessary to modify patterns design if buyer or appropriate authority
suggests any major modification.
5. Grading:
Normally for large scale garments production of any style needs different
sizes to produce form a set of particular size of patterns, the patterns of
different sizes are produced by using grade rule which is called grading.
6. Marker Making:
All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged and the paper
such a way so that maximum number of garments could be produced
with minimum fabric are produced with minimum fabric wastage.
Markers are made for 6, 12, 18, 24 etc. pieces. Markers is also useful to
estimate fabric consumption calculations.
7. Spreading:
It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length
and width of the marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/fabric
is limited up to maximum six inches high. But 4 inches to 5-inch height of
the lay is safe.
8. Fabric Cutting:
On the fabric lay/spread the marker paper is placed carefully and
accurately, and pinned with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or
displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight patterns in stack
form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects.
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
9. Sorting/Bundling:
After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack
from is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is
better to use code number on each pattern.
10. Sewing or Assembling:
It is the most important department/section of a garment manufacturing
industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical
line to assemble the garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine per
line varies from 20 nos. to 60 nos. depending on the style of the garment
to be produce. Production pr. line pr. hour also varies from 100 to 150
pieces depending on specific circumstances. Number of sewing machine
arrangement per line may be up to 60 depending on design and output
quality of garment.
11. Inspection:
Each and every garment after sewing passes through the inspection table
/ point, where the garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to
detect / find any defect if present in the garment. The defects may be for
example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric defects spots etc.
If the defect is not correctional, then the garment is separated as wastage.
12. Pressing/Finishing:
After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally
ironed/pressed to remove unwanted crease and to improve the
smoothness, so that the garments looks nice to the customer. Folding of
the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garments as per
required dimension.
13. Final Inspection:
It is the last stage of inspection of the manufactured garments on behalf
of the garment manufacturing organization, to detect any defective
garments before packing.
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
14. Packing:
After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color
wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is
marked with important information in printed from which is seen from
outside the cartoon easily.
15. Dispatch:
The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the
dispatch department or finished product warehouse, from where the
garments lot is delivered for shipment.
❖ Count: Count is a numerical number which express coarseness and
fineness of yarn. Count is the relationship of weight and length. It
is the weight per unit length, and length per unit weight.
The various system of numbering yarn may be broadly divided into the
following groups:
i. Indirect or Fixed System: In this system the count of yarn expresses
the number of length units in one weight unit. Higher the count,
finer is the yarn. This system is generally used for cotton, worsted,
woolen, linen (wet spun) etc.
The table below shows the different length a unit and weight units used
in important indirect system.
Name of System Unit of Weight Unit of Length
English Cotton 1 lb Hanks of 840 yds
France Cotton ½ Kg Hanks of 100 yds
Metric System 1 Kg Hanks of 1000 meter
Worsted System 1 lb 560 yds Hanks
British 1 lb Hanks of 50 yds
American 1 lb Cut of 100 yds
Fiber Glam 1 lb Hanks of 100 yds
For Example: English cotton count means number of hanks 840 yards in
one pound. Other counts definition same as cotton count changing weight
to length units.
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
In this system, twist of yarn can be easily calculated, as they are directly
proportioned to the square root of the counts of the yarn.
• 1 lb = 16 Ounce
• 1 lb = 453.60 Gram
• 1 lb = 7000 Grain
Direct System: In this system the count of yarn expresses the number of
weight units in one length unit. Higher the count, courser is the yarn. This
system is used for thrown silk, artificial silk, jute, synthetic yarn etc. In
this system; bulk amount of the yarn is directly proportioned to this count
number.
Different units of length and weight are used for different types of yarn.
In the table below is given the length and wight units used in important
direct system.
Name of System Unit of Weight Unit of Length
Tex Gramme Hanks of 1000 meter/1 Km.
Denier Gramme Hanks of 9000 meter
Jute Lb 14400 Yds.
English Denier (Rayon, Denier Hanks of 520 Yds.
Silk, Thermal) (Gram/0.82)
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
Resultant Count
1 1
= = Wt in Lb of Length unit A+wt m lb of 1 length unit B
Wt in Lb of Length unit of folded yarn
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
How to Measure Twist Per Inch (TPI) for Knit & Woven Yarn?
➢ Twist multiply for knit fabric yarn ranges between 3.8 – 3.9
➢ Twist multiply (TM) for woven fabric yarn ranges between 4.0 – 4.2
➢ TPI of knit fabric yarn in lower than that of woven fabric yarn.
1. Problem: Find out the twist per inch of 36 count knit fabric yarn.
Solution:
We know,
Solution:
We know,
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Question: What is Twist? Write formula of twist, merits & demerits of twist.
Answer:
Twist is turn per unit length; which is applied to the yarn with a view to
holding up fibers along the axis of the yarn.
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
• Head
• Neck
• Chest Length of Top
• Waist
• Hip
• Thai
• Knee Length of Bottom
• Wadded
• Foot
3
• Length of Top = × Human Body ± 1
8
5
• Length of Bottom = 8 × Human Body ± 1
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Question: Mention the differences between Direct System and Indirect System.
Answer:
The difference between Direct and Indirect System are given below table:
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Knitwear Technology (Cutting & Sewing) - APM 7402
𝟒𝟎𝒔 𝟐
Question: What is the difference between and 𝟒𝟎𝒔
𝟐
Answer:
40𝑠
means single yarn count is 40 and after ply or fold the resultant count
2
is 20. Here no of ply/fold is 2.
2
means single yarn count is 80 but after ply or fold the resultant count
40𝑠
is 40. Here no. of ply/fold is 2.
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Alternative Method:
590.5 590.5
Ne Count = = = 39.37 ≈ 40
Tex 15
Problem-02: Calculate the length of 340 gm, if nylon yarn whose count is
20 tex.
Solution:
We know,
Weight
Weight Unit
Tex Count = Length
Length Unit
340 gm 1000 m
Or, 20 = × Length
1 gm
340 gm ×1000 m
Or, Length = 1 gm × 20
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Problem-03: What is the weight of 35 kilometers of yarn whose count is 8.4 tex.
Solution:
We know,
Weight
Weight Unit
Tex Count = Length
Length Unit
1000 m Weight
Or, 8.4 = 35000 m × [35 km = 35000 m]
1 grm
35000 m × 1 grm
Or, Weight = = 4.17 grm. (Ans.)
1000 m ×8.4
Problem-04: If 27432 yards of acetate yarn weigh 240 gm, what is its count in Tex
System?
Solution:
We know,
Weight 240 gm
Weight Unit 1 gm
Tex Count = Length = 27432 yds
Length Unit 1000 m
240 m 1000 m
= 1 gm
× 27432 yds
240 ×1000 m
= = 9.57 ≈ 10
25072.85 m
Additional Notes:
• 1 meter = 1.094 goz
• 1 lb length of yarn = 840 × count of the yarn goz
• Ne = English Count
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Problem-05: Calculate the count of 5000 yards of yarn in Tex System, its
weight 10 oz.
We know,
Solution: 1 ounce (oz) = 28.35 gm
1 Yard = 0.914 meter
Weight 10 oz
Weight Unit 1 gm
Tex Count = Length = 5000 yds
Length Unit 1000 m
283.5 ×1000
= 4570
= 62.04 ≈ 62
∴ Tex = 62 (Ans.)
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Problem-07: If 240 yds of cotton yarn weight 40 grains, what is the count
and dia of the yarn also find out thickness of knit fabric?
Solution:
We know,
Length
Length Unit 240 yds 1 lb
Ne Count = Weight = 840 yds × 40 grain
Wight Unit
24 7000 grain
= × [1 lb = 7000 Grain]
84 40 grain
∴ Ne Count = 50 (Ans.)
We know,
1
(d) = = 0.0042
√Count×840
240 × 1
Weight = 840 × 60 = 17.14 ≈ 18
Length × 1 lb
Or, 40 = 840 × 105 gram
840 × 105 gram
Or, Length = [1lb = 453.6 gm]
453.6 gm
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Length 1 lb
Or, 30 = 840 yds × 2.5 lbs
840 × 2.5 lbs × 30
Or, Length = = 63000 yards
1 lb
151200 yds 1 lb
= × 10 lbs
840 yds
= 18 Count in Ne (Ans.)
Alternative Method for Length Determination:
Length × Weight Unit
Ne = Length Unit ×Weight
18 ×840 ×10
= 1
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1 kg × 75 km
= = 30
2.5 kg × 1 km
1 kg × 114m
= 3 gm × 1 km
1000 gm × 114m
= = 38 (Ans.)
1000 m × 3 gm
Problem-14: If 7200 yards of jute yarn weight 3 lbs, what is the count of
the yarn?
Solution:
Length Unit × Weight
Spindle/Jute Count = Length × Weight Unit
= 6 (Ans.)
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1 1 1 1
Or, C = 20 + 15 + 12
1 3+4+5 12
Or, C = = 60
60
1 1
Or, C = 5
∴ Count = 5 𝑠 (Ans.)
∴ The resultant count of threefold cotton yarn in 5 in Ne cotton system.
THE END
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