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Literature review current through: Dec 2019. | This topic last updated: Jun 27, 2019.
INTRODUCTION
Chemical peels are skin resurfacing procedures that can improve skin quality,
texture, and appearance. A chemical peel involves the application of a caustic
substance to the skin to induce controlled skin injury (table 1). Subsequent wound-
healing processes can lead to improvements in hyperpigmentation, rhytides, acne
scars, actinic keratoses, and other features (table 2).
BASIC CONCEPTS
Chemical peels are relatively fast procedures that are most often performed on
the head and neck. Treatment may be administered to a focal area of skin or an
entire region (eg, cosmetic unit or entire face (figure 1)). The wide variety of
chemical peel agents, formulas, and techniques allows for the selection of an
appropriate procedure for a specific indication.
The depth of skin injury a chemical peel induces is the major determinant of effect
(table 2). Light chemical peels (also known as superficial chemical peels) cause
injury limited to the epidermis and are primarily used for cutaneous
hyperpigmentation and mild improvements in skin texture. Medium-depth peels
injure the epidermis and papillary dermis, allowing for improvement of features
such as hyperpigmentation, actinic keratoses, superficial acne scars, and shallow
wrinkles. In deep peels, injury extends from the epidermis into the reticular dermis,
contributing to improvement in deeper acne scars and wrinkles. Both the specific
peeling agent selected and application technique can influence the depth of
peeling. (See "Chemical peels: Principles, peeling agents, and pretreatment
assessment", section on 'Peel types' and "Chemical peels: Principles, peeling
agents, and pretreatment assessment", section on 'Common peeling agents'.)
PREPARATION
Although many clinicians, including ourselves, use skin preparation for all
chemical peels, the value of skin preparation has been questioned. A retrospective
study that assessed complications following 473 light chemical peels in patients
with skin phototypes III to VI found similar rates of complications between
patients given preparatory treatment (eg, hydroquinone, topical retinoids, alpha-
hydroxy acids) and patients who did not receive this treatment (table 3) [1]. (See
'Dyspigmentation' below.)
● Topical retinoids – Topical retinoids thin and smoothen the stratum corneum,
facilitating improved and even penetration of peeling agents and
hydroquinone. Retinoids also have other effects that may augment the results
of chemical peels, including promotion of collagen and elastin synthesis,
restoration of normal epidermal thickness and maturation, and improvement
of solar elastosis. Faster wound healing after skin resurfacing has been
demonstrated in patients pretreated with tretinoin [2].
Of note, topical retinoids often induce skin irritation, particularly near the medial
and lateral commissures of the eyes, oral commissures, upper eyelids, neck, and
chest. Avoidance of application of retinoids near the commissures of the eyes and
mouth may facilitate tolerance of topical retinoids. Less frequent (ie, once to twice
weekly rather than daily) application of topical retinoids is suggested for the
eyelids, neck, and chest. If skin irritation occurs, the topical retinoid can be
stopped for one to two days and restarted upon improvement.
Higher doses of valacyclovir (eg, 1 g twice per day) are utilized by some clinicians,
including the author, for HSV prophylaxis in patients with multiple HSV recurrences
per year, in an attempt to augment suppression given the potentially devastating
consequences of HSV reactivation after a chemical peel. However, the superiority
of this approach is unproven.
PROCEDURE
Prior to application of the peeling agent, all materials necessary for the peel
should be assembled in the treatment room in a location where they are
immediately accessible to the clinician. Typical supplies include:
● Appropriate liquid to flush eyes in the event of accidental entry of the peeling
agent
Saline solution is appropriate for flushing the eyes for most chemical peels. We
typically keep a 20 mL syringe of normal saline available. Mineral oil should be
used to flush the eyes after entry of a phenol-containing peel solution. Water may
increase penetration of phenol.
The patient should be positioned in a manner that allows the clinician easy access
and full visibility of the entire treatment area. A surgical cap or band is used to
keep hair off of the treatment area. Patients' contact lenses should be removed.
First, the patient should wash the skin with a gentle skin cleanser to remove
makeup and lotions. Next, the clinician degreases the skin with either acetone or
70% alcohol. Use of acetone is preferred prior to phenol peels. A typical
degreasing technique involves rubbing a 4x4 inch gauze moistened with the
degreasing agent over the entire treatment area.
Medium-depth and deep chemical peels can be painful and typically require
greater intervention. Oral analgesia with a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug
(NSAID), administration of an oral or intramuscular sedative, and use of a
refrigerated forced-air cooling unit may be sufficient for medium-depth peels.
Opioid analgesics may also be utilized. Intravenous sedation is an option for
select patients requiring a greater degree of anesthesia, usually for patients
receiving full-face phenol peels.
Topical anesthetics can hydrate the skin and accelerate penetration of peeling
agents. Therefore, use of topical anesthetics should be approached with caution
and reserved for clinicians experienced with chemical peels.
Typically, the application sequence for light and medium-depth facial peels begins
with the forehead and temples, proceeds to the cheeks and chin, then concludes
with perioral and periocular skin. The agent is feathered at the margins of the
hairline, rim of the jaw, and brow to minimize the development of lines of
demarcation after healing [7].
To reduce the risk of phenol toxicity during deep chemical peels, phenol is usually
only applied to one small area of skin at a time. The face is subdivided into
sections that are treated at 15-minute intervals, such as the forehead, one cheek,
the alternate cheek, nose and perioral area, and the periorbital region. The
applicator swab should only be slightly moist. More solution can be applied to the
deeper wrinkles and scars to achieve deeper peeling in those areas. The phenol
solution should be swirled periodically to prevent separation of the components
between applications.
Treatment endpoints — The peeling agent utilized and the desired depth of peeling
determine the amount of time a chemical peel agent should remain on the skin.
The major factors used to identify treatment endpoints include time and the
physical appearance of the skin.
Salicylic acid (20 to 30%) and Jessner's peel solutions are often left on the skin for
six minutes. Slightly deeper penetration of the epidermis can be achieved through
application of more solution to the skin or application of firm pressure as the
solution is rubbed into the skin. After six minutes, the skin is wiped with a wet
washcloth to remove the peel solution. However, the action of salicylic acid and
Jessner's solution on the skin is self-limited, and application of a neutralizing
agent is not necessary to conclude the peel.
● Level 3 frost – A solid, organized frost with loss of the pink sign. Loss of the
pink sign results from vasospasm of capillary loops in the papillary dermis. A
level 3 frost indicates that the peel has crossed the full thickness of the
papillary dermis but has not penetrated the reticular dermis.
Further penetration of the peeling agent into the midreticular dermis will result in a
"grayish" frost. This appearance correlates with increased risk for
hypopigmentation and scarring.
The pink sign may be difficult to appreciate in patients with highly pigmented skin.
The epidermal sliding sign is useful for identifying the treatment endpoint for
medium-depth peels in these patients. The "epidermal sliding sign" is an
exaggerated wrinkling of the skin that occurs when papillary dermal edema forms
and disrupts the anchoring fibrils between the epidermis and dermis. This allows
the epidermis to be more freely movable, resulting in exaggerated wrinkling when
the skin is pinched. Epidermal sliding is a transient sign that will disappear when
the peel coagulates the epidermal proteins with dermal proteins, indicating that
the peel depth has reached the superficial reticular dermis.
The rapid appearance of a solid, organized, white frost is expected for phenol
chemical peels.
The recovery time following a chemical peel rises with increasing depth of the
peel. Careful skin care (gentle cleansing, regular use of emollients, sun protection,
and avoidance of rubbing or picking the skin) is performed during the recovery
period to support wound healing and minimize risk for complications.
Close adherence to postprocedure skin care is most important for medium-depth
and deep chemical peels given the greater degree of skin injury compared with
light peels. Patients should receive written instructions to assist with correct
performance of wound care recommendations.
Pain is not expected after light or medium-depth chemical peels. After deep
chemical peels, discomfort characterized by a burning sensation is common for
the first 24 hours. Patients who develop unexpected pain, purulence, or any type of
exudate after a chemical peel should be evaluated immediately for infectious
complications. Patients who develop findings suspicious for herpes labialis after
medium-depth or deep peels should also be promptly examined. (See 'Infection'
below and "Epidemiology, clinical manifestations, and diagnosis of herpes simplex
virus type 1 infection", section on 'Oral infections'.)
Light peels — The recovery time following a light chemical peel is three to four
days. The skin is mildly erythematous for one to two days and will exhibit slight
desquamation for three to four days.
We typically provide patients with the following instructions for skin care during
the healing period:
● Wash twice per day with a gentle cleanser and apply a light, noncomedogenic
moisturizer
● Avoid direct sun exposure to minimize risk for sunburn and hyperpigmentation
Patients can resume their regular skin care regimens once the skin has healed.
Medium-depth peels and deep peels — The time between the chemical peel and
complete reepithelialization after medium-depth and deep chemical peels is 7 to 8
days and 8 to 10 days, respectively. Skin edema is usually prominent and may
continue to worsen during the first two days. The skin then develops a darkened,
mask-like appearance, which is followed by desquamation and subsequent
reepithelialization. Desquamation in deep peel areas may reveal skin with a moist
appearance and a layer of yellowish exudate.
We typically provide patients with the following instructions for skin care during
the healing period:
● Apply a clean, moldable ice pack (eg, small plastic bag of frozen peas) to the
eyes and cheeks for 10 minutes each hour during the first one to two days,
while awake, to minimize swelling.
● Gently wash the face in the morning and before bedtime with fingers. Do not
rub. Do not use a washcloth. Gently pat the skin with a towel to dry the skin
after washing. Gently apply a bland ointment emollient after washing. The
emollient should be patted, not rubbed, onto the skin.
● At noon and in the late afternoon, perform an astringent soak using gauze
soaked in aluminum acetate solution. Wet the gauze and lay it on the skin for
approximately 10 minutes. Do not rinse the solution from the skin.
Patients can restart their regular skin care regimen once reepithelialization is
complete. Sun exposure should be avoided for one month. Exercise should be
avoided until the skin has fully reepithelialized (six to eight days).
COMPLICATIONS
Irritant contact dermatitis may also occur as a result of products applied after the
chemical peel. Irritant contact dermatitis is managed with the elimination of any
potentially irritating skin care products. A low-potency corticosteroid can be
applied when needed.
Ocular injury — Entry of chemical peeling agents in the eye can result in corneal
injury. The eye should be rinsed immediately. Saline solution can be used to rinse
the eye for most chemical peels. Mineral oil should be used to rinse the eye
following entry of phenol peeling solutions because water may increase
penetration of phenol. A prompt ophthalmologic evaluation is indicated following
ocular exposure to a chemical peel agent.
Herpes simplex virus infection presents with moderately painful, small ulcerations
that may rapidly spread within the treatment area. Signs of infection often appear
two to three days after the chemical peel [6]. Infection may be confirmed with
polymerase chain reaction, direct fluorescent antibody, or viral culture. Oral
antiviral therapy is indicated. (See 'Infection' above and "Epidemiology, clinical
manifestations, and diagnosis of herpes simplex virus type 1 infection", section on
'Oral infections'.)
Hypertrophic scars or keloids that develop following chemical peels are managed
similarly to scars secondary to other events. Examples of therapeutic options
include high-potency topical corticosteroids, intralesional corticosteroid injections,
intralesional 5-fluorouracil, and pulsed dye laser therapy. (See "Keloids and
hypertrophic scars", section on 'Management'.)
ASSESSMENT OF EFFECT
● Chemical peels are divided into light, medium-depth, and deep chemical peels
based upon the depth of skin injury induced in the skin. Injury from light
chemical peels is limited to the epidermis. Medium-depth peels injure the
dermis and papillary dermis, and deep chemical peels involve injury extending
into the reticular dermis. (See 'Basic concepts' above.)
● The peeling agent utilized and the desired depth of skin injury determine the
treatment endpoint for a chemical peel. The endpoint for light chemical peels
is often based upon contact time with the skin. Physical signs, such as frosting
and the epidermal sliding sign, are used to guide the endpoints for medium-
depth and deep chemical peels. (See 'Treatment endpoints' above.)
● Gentle skin care is implemented after chemical peels to support healing and
reduce risk for complications. This typically includes gentle cleansing, regular
use of emollients, sun protection, and avoidance of additional trauma to the
skin. (See 'Postprocedure course and care' above.)
REFERENCES
5. Wambier CG, Lee KC, Soon SL, et al. Advanced chemical peels: Phenol-croton
oil peel. J Am Acad Dermatol 2019; 81:327.
6. Lee KC, Wambier CG, Soon SL, et al. Basic chemical peeling: Superficial and
medium-depth peels. J Am Acad Dermatol 2019; 81:313.
8. Costa IMC, Damasceno PS, Costa MC, Gomes KGP. Review in peeling
complications. J Cosmet Dermatol 2017; 16:319.