Other Books by Trailer Life

RV Handbook - 3rd Edition

This "no fluff" comprehensive guide for both novice and seasoned RVers has thousands
across the U.S. and Canada reaching for this book as a constant source of reference. It has
become the "bible" for the RV road warrior. Features hundreds of proven RV tips, tricks
and techniques to save you time, money and maybe even your sanity. Packed with user
friendly technical advice, checklists, schematics, photos, and charts. You simply won't
find this level of detail covered in any other RV book.
82/3 x 103/4, 275 pages
$29.95 ISBN: 0-934798-66-4

10 Minute Tech - The Book

Here are hundreds of easy-to-do, money-savings tips taken from Trailer Life maga-
zine's "10-Minute Tech," the most widely read and talked about self-help column for
RVers. This handy book features clever ways to help you improve your RV's livability,
plenty of towing tips, procedures for cleaning and maintaining your rig, user-friendly
tips on fixing your appliances, great ideas for storage and much more. Filled with
easy-to-follow illustrations that will help turn RVers into savvy do-it-yourselfers.
73/4 x 91/2, 219 pages
$29.95 ISBN: 0-934798-59-1

Complete Guide to Full-time RVing: Life on the Open Road, Third Edition
Bill and Jan Moeller
This best-selling how-to-do-it book covers a broad range of subjects of interest to
fulltimers, those considering a full-time lifestyle, or seasonal RVers. New and
expanded chapters include working fulltimers, remodeling your RV for full-time
living, and widebody RVs, in addition to chapters on costs, choosing the right
RV, safety and security, and more.
73/8 x 91/4, 548 pages
$29.95 ISBN: 0-934798-53-2

The Best of Tech Topics: Volume I

Bob Livingston
Over the years, thousands of RVers have corresponded with Bob Livingston through
his monthly "Tech Topics" column in Highways magazine. The Best of Tech Topics
includes their most important and most asked questions, along with no-nonsense
answers and solutions to pressing RV problems. Whether you are working on your
own RV or in the RV trades, you'll find the job-tested information you need right
here.
51/2 x 81/2, 98 pages
$12.95 ISBN: 0-93478-55-9

100 Miles Around Yellowstone Park

Jim and Madonna Zumbo
This book is a comprehensive guide that focuses on the sights and activities within a
100-mile radius of Yellowstone National Park. It is a valuable guide for
travelers who choose Yellowstone as their destination, but don't want to miss out
on the many sights and activities nearby. Particular emphasis is made on RV travel
and information in this area.
73/8 x 91/4, 368 pages
$34.95 ISBN: 0-93478-52-4
Please Don't Tailgate the Real Estate:
Scouting the Back Roads and Off Ramps to Find True Love and Happiness
William C. Anderson
A hilarious collection of insights, observations, and travel adventures of noted author
and Hollywood screenwriter, William "Andy" Anderson, gleaned from more than
thirty years of RV travel with his wife and family in their rig, Rocinante. Andy is a
rare combination of gifted humorist and warm-hearted observer whose hilarious
accounts of the twists, turns, quirks, and challenges of life on wheels comes from his
own personal experience.
51/2 x 81/2, 224 pages
$16.95 ISBN: 0-934798-51-8

These books are available at fine bookstores everywhere. Or, you may order directly
from Trailer Life Books. For each book ordered, simply send us the name of the
book, the price, plus $3.95 per book for shipping and handling (CA, CO, IN resi-
dents please add appropriate sales tax).

Mail to:
Trailer Life Books,
64 Inverness Drive East,
Englewood, CO 80112

You may call our customer-service representatives if you wish to charge your
order or if you would like additional information. Please phone, toll-free, Monday
through Friday, 6:30 a.m. to 6:30 P.M.; Saturday 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 P.M., Mountain Time;
1(800) 766-1674.
OR, Visit us online at www.tldirectory.com
 RV
Repair

&
Maintenance Manual
F O U R T H E D I T I O N

B O B L I V I N G S T O N

TRAILER LIFE BOOKS

Copyright®2002 by TL Enterprises, Inc., All rights reserved.
Reproduction of this work, in whole or in part, electronic
or otherwise, without written permission of the publisher,
is prohibited.

Production Director: Ann Emerson

Production Coordinator: Cathy Williams
Technical Illustrations: Randy Miyake
Copy Editor: Rena Copperman, April Locke
Cover Design: Brian Burchfield
Interior Design: Robert S. Tinnon

This book was set in Giovanni and Futura.

Printed and bound in the United States of America

by Ripon Printers.

12

ISBN:0-934798-70-2
 CONTENTS
LIST OF TABLES
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDES
FOREWORD
PREFACE

CHAPTER 1
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 1.1
Tests and Checks for Electrical Systems ■ Batteries ■ Power Converters ■ Monitor Panel
Systems ■ Intellitec 50-amp Smart Energy Management System, Model 900 ■ Intellitec
Electronic Climate Control
CHAPTER 2
LP-GAS SYSTEMS 2.1
Propane Storage Containers ■ DOT Valves ■ Regulators ■ Automatic Changeover
Regulator ■ Filling and Overfilling LP-Gas Containers ■ Container Inspection and
Recertification ■ OPD/Stop-Fill Valves ■ LP-Gas Detectors
CHAPTER 3
WATER SYSTEMS 3.1
Water Tanks ■ Water System Sanitation ■ Water Pumps ■ Water-Pressure Regulators
■ Repairing Faucets ■ Sealing Sinks and Bathtubs ■ Hot-Water Tanks ■ Winterizing
the Water System
CHAPTER 4
SANITATION SYSTEMS 4.1
Toilets ■ The Recirculating Toilet ■ Holding Tanks, Drainpipes, and Vent Pipes
CHAPTER 5
AC GENERATORS 5.1
Maintenance of AC Generators
CHAPTER 6
HEATING SYSTEMS 6.1
Forced-Air Furnaces ■ Catalytic Heaters

CHAPTER 7
AIR-CONDITIONING SYSTEMS 7.1
Compressor Air Conditioners ■ Evaporative Coolers

CHAPTER 8
REFRIGERATORS 8.1
The Electronic Refrigerator ■ Leveling Early-Model Refrigerators ■ Refrigerator
Problems ■ Helpful Hints for Refrigerator Operation ■ General Maintenance
VI The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

CHAPTER 9
TRAILER BRAKES 9.1
Electric Brakes ■ Surge Brakes ■ How Brake Controllers Work ■ Testing Procedures for
Trailer Brakes ■ Controller Installation ■ Controller Adjustment ■ The Variable
Resistor ■ Inspecting Electric Brake Components ■ Adjusting the Brakes ■ Installing the
Wheels ■ Servicing Trailer Brakes

CHAPTER 10
DINGHY TOWING 10.1
Towing Equipment ■ Miscellaneous Towing Tips

CHAPTER 1 1
HITCHES 11.1
Hitch Classifications ■ Conventional Hitch Hardware ■ Installing the Hitch ■
Conventional Hitching Process ■ Fifth-Wheel Hitching Process ■ Sway-Control Devices
■ Hitch Maintenance

CHAPTER 12
DRIVETRAIN SYSTEMS 12.1
Engine Service and Repair ■ Cooling-System Service ■ The Transmission ■ Universal
Joints ■ Suspension Components ■ Rear Differential ■ Wheel Bearings ■ Tires

CHAPTER 13
DIESEL SERVICE 13.1
Caterpillar 3126B, HEUI ■ Cummins ISB and ISC 24 Valve ■ Ford Power Stroke,
Navistar 7.3 DL ■ General Tips for Diesel Engine Operation

CHAPTER 14
SOLAR POWER SYSTEMS 14.1
A Definition of Solar Power ■ Panel Specifications ■ Planning a Solar System ■
Parking to Maximize Sun Exposure ■ Troubleshooting ■ Panel Maintenance

CHAPTER 15
OVENS AND RANGES 15.1
Oven and Range Components ■ Range and Oven Component Operation and
Maintenance ■ Magic Chef Component Replacement ■ Wedgewood/Atwood
Component Replacement ■ Range Hoods

CHAPTER 1 6
MICROWAVES AND ICE MAKERS 16.1
Microwave Ovens ■ Ice Makers

CHAPTER 17
EXTERIOR CARE AND REPAIR 1 7.1
The Symptoms of Wear ■ Exterior Care ■ Rubber Roof Care ■ Rubber Roof Repair ■
Rubber Roof Replacement ■ Metal and Fiberglass-Roof Care ■ Aluminum Care and
Repair ■ Replacing Compartment Doors, Entry Doors and Windows ■ Fiberglass Care
and Repair ■ Caulking and Sealing ■ Moldings and Doors ■ Screens ■ Ladders, Roof
Racks, and Roof Vents ■ Trailer A-Frames ■ And What About the Driveway?
 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual vii

CHAPTER 1 8
INTERIOR CARE 18.1
Carpet and Upholstery Stain Removal ■ Drapes and Blinds ■ Floor Care ■ Wall and
Ceiling Paneling ■ Woodwork ■ Kitchen and Bathroom Care ■ General Interior Care

CHAPTER 19
ACCESSORIES 19.1
Awnings ■ Levelers ■ Atwood Power A-Frame Jack ■ Atwood Fifth Wheel Landing Gear
■ Atwood Stabilizer Jack ■ Atwood Camper Jacks ■ Winegard Television Antennas and
Satellite Dishes ■ Fan-Tastic Vent ■ Trac Vision ■ King-Dome Automatic Satellite
System ■ CruiseTV STS ■ Slide-out Room Systems ■ RBW Industries Slideout Room
System ® Power Gear Slideout System ■ Atwood Slideout Room System

INDEX 1.1
 LIST OF TABLES

Table Page Table Page

1.1 Amperage Load in Circuit 1.6 8.1 Norcold 900 and 9100 Series
1.2 National Electrical Code Amperage 1.7 Diagnostic Fault Indicators,
1.3 Capacities of Typical 12-volt, Meanings, and Corrective Actions 8.5
Deep-cycle, Wet-cell Group 24 and 8.2 Diagnostic Codes, Meanings, and
Actions 8.6
27 Batteries 1.11
1.4 Open-Circuit Voltage 1.12
9.1 Maximum Current Values, Amperes 9.7
1.5 Specific Gravity Values 1.12
9.2 Gain-Setting Chart 9.19
1.6 Battery-Charging Guide for Fixed-rate
9.3 Magnet Amperes Chart 9.28
External Chargers 1.14
9.4 Wheel Torque Requirements 9.30
1.7 Recommended Wire and Cable Sizes
for Charging Systems 1.17 10.2
10.1 Gross Combination Weight Ratings
1.8 Electrical Tests to Assure Proper
Operation of Battery Isolator 1.21 12.1 Special Trailer Tire-Load Ratings for
1.9 Determining Proper Wire Size 1.21 Normal Highway Service 12.27
1110 Circuit Breakers for Charging 12.2 Tire and Rim Association Ratings,
Systems 1.22 Flotation-Type Light-Truck Tires 12.27
1.11 Continuous Power Consumption 12.3 Michelin Motorhome Tire-Load
for Typical 120-Volt AC Appliances 1.25 Ratings-Loads per Axle 12.27
1.12 Average Power Consumption of 12.4 Tire and Rim Association Ratings 12.28
Typical Appliances 1.26 12.5 Tire and Rim Association Ratings 12.29
12.6 Tire and Rim Association Ratings 12.30
12.7 Tire and Rim Association Ratings,
2.1 Vapor Pressures of LP-Gases 2.1
Trailer Tires 12.31
2.2 LP-Gas Information 2.1
13.1 Oil Analysis 13.2

5.1 AC Generator Generic Maintenance 14.1 Specifications of Popular Solar

Schedule 5.1 Modules used on RVs 14.2
5.2 Choke Adjustments 5117 14.2 Average Power Consumption of
5.3 Kohler Voltage and Frequency Typical Appliances 14.2
Specifications 5.18 14.3 Approximate Average Power
5.4 Onan Voltage and Frequency Consumption of Widely Available
Specifications 5.19 12-Volt DC Appliances 14.3
14.4 Formula to Compute Amp-Hours 14.3
7.1 Extension Cord Amperage Ratings 7.7 14.5 Solar Performance Tables 14.4
 TROUBLESHOOTING
GUIDES

The Battery 1.13 The Absorption Refrigerator 8.13

The Multiple-Battery Isolator Solenoid 1.21 Refrigerator Operating on LP-Gas 8.14
The Power Inverter 1.27
The Incandescent Lighting Fixture 1.28 Tekonsha Prodigy 9.4
The Fluorescent Lighting Fixture 1.29 The Electric-Brake System 9.8
Intellitec 50-amp Smart Energy Jordan Research Ultima 2020 9.15
Management System, Model 900 1.34 Jordan 2100 Actuator 9.20
Intellitec Electronic Climate Control 1.36 Ausco Trail'r Brake’r 9.23
Kodiak Disk Brakes 9.25
The LP-Gas Tank/Cylinder 2.3
The Regulator 2.8 The Hitch System 11.16

The Water Tank 3.3 The Engine 12.4

The Water Pump 3.12 The Automatic Transmission 12.16
Flojet Water Pumps 3.14 The Standard Transmission 12.17
The Hot-Water Tank 3.22 The Tires 12.24

The Thetford Aqua-Magic IV Toilet 4.3 The Magic Chef Oven and Range 15.2
The Thetford Aurora, Galaxy, and The Wedgewood/Atwood Oven and Range 15.6
Starlite Toilets 4.6 The Range-Hood Fan and Light 15.18
Microphor Microflush Toilets 4.10
The Thetford Electra Magic The Ice Maker 16.12
Recirculating Toilet 4.11
The Royal Flush Toilet 4.17 Carefree One-Touch Awning 19.4
The HWH Leveler 19.7
The AC Generator 5.6 Power Gear Hydraulic Levelers 19.16
Onan Quiet Diesel AC Generator 5.26 Equalizer Systems Hydraulic Levelers 19.22
Kohler Diesel AC Generator 5.30 Atwood Power Jack 19.25
Honda AC Generators 5.34 Atwood Manual A-Frame Jack 19.26
Atwood Fifth-Wheel Landing Gear 19.32
Atwood Camper Jacks 19.35
The Forced-Air Furnace 6.10
Fan-Tastic Vent 19.44
Hydro Flame Thermostat 6.15
Trac Vision 19.48
King-Dome Automatic Satellite System 19.51
The Compressor Air Conditioner 7.6 CruiseTV STS 19.53
The Heat Strip 7.15 The HWH Room-Extension System 19.61
RVP Multi-Zone Controller 7.19 RBW Industries Slideout-Room System 19.64
The Evaporative Cooler 7.21 Power Gear Slideout System 19.66
Atwood Slideout-Room System 19.68
 FOREWORD

mechanical aspects of RV ownership as necessary

n an ideal world, all sorts of vehicles would run
I virtually forever on miserly amounts of fuel and
would never suffer mechanical or electrical break-
evils that go along with the enjoyment of motorhome
travel, but Bob Livingston, author of the RV Repair
& Maintenance Manual, enjoys collecting and using
downs. Tow trucks would not exist.
knowledge about everything from amperage to Zerk
Of course, we don't live in an ideal world, and
fittings. For Bob, the technical side of RV ownership
quite a variety of mechanical and electrical problems
is a hobby unto itself—something he has enjoyed
occur every day, the type and severity dependent on
for more than two decades. It has always been fun
the original quality, age, and condition of the vehi-
for him, which is why he has acquired such a broad
cle. That's why we have towing insurance, and why
range of knowledge.
many of us even buy extended service contracts that
The result of that knowledge is the very thorough
go well beyond original warranties on items such as
coverage of RV maintenance and repair that you see
the vehicle drivetrain and on motorhome appliances.
here. Thus, the book not only can be an insurance
Although it may not look like one, the RV Repair &
policy, it can also be your ticket to the satisfying feel-
Maintenance Manual is an insurance policy—one of
ing that comes from knowing how your RV works,
a different kind. Given proper attention, this book in-
sures that you will know more about maintenance how it should be maintained, and how it should
be repaired if it breaks. Even RV owners who have
and repair of your RV, and that you will be better pre-
no intention of doing any of the work themselves
pared to prevent a broad variety of mechanical and
should be armed with the best, most complete, RV
electrical problems through the use of more thorough
repair and maintenance information.
maintenance. And, this book gives you assurance that
With the RV Repair & Maintenance Manual, you're
you will be better prepared to diagnose problems if
on the way to more enjoyable, less expensive RV travel.
they occur. While you may or may not be interested
in performing the repairs yourself, you'll be in a bet-
Bill Estes, Publisher
ter position to deal with professional mechanics.
Trailer Life and MotorHome
Many RV owners may regard the technical and
 PREFACE
Thirteen years ago we made the decision to pro-
duce a comprehensive technical guide that
would provide readers with good reference material
to better understand the inner workings of RVs. In
1989, the first RV Repair & Maintenance Manual was
published, and since then it has helped literally
hundreds of thousands of RV owners. The latest edi-
tion, the fourth, has been updated to include
detailed information that keeps pace with the
changing RV industry. While RVs have always been
complex, featuring multiple systems—and multiple
service and repair problems—they are now
enhanced by sophisticated equipment and electron-
ics. This new edition has been designed to keep up
with technology.
The book is divided into nineteen chapters de-
signed to give owners more familiarity with indi-
vidual systems in any trailer, fifth-wheel, motorhome,
or pickup camper. Beyond the basic primers, this ref-
erence book is designed to instruct the owner on the
proper procedures for preventive maintenance, a cru-
cial element for troublefree RV travel.
When a rig is delivered by your dealer, it is usu-
ally put through an extensive pre-delivery inspection
(PDI). Service technicians will thoroughly test each
appliance and system for proper operation. But for
too many owners, this is the first and last time their
rigs get checked out in such detail. Unfortunately,
many owners wait for the inevitable breakdown be-
fore taking action. And you know what that means:
throwing yourself at the mercy of a local repair shop.
Knowledge of maintenance procedures and servic-
ing your rig on a regular basis give you the upper
hand.
Due to the nature of RV travel, most breakdowns
occur far from home, where you're forced to trust the
local technician to be honest about necessary repairs
and charge you a fair amount. Here is where this
manual gives you an advantage. Even if you are not
a seasoned mechanic, you'll be far better off if you
know something about proper repair procedures.
Less-than-honest mechanics are more wary when the
owner acts as if he or she knows what's going on.
Troubleshooting guides throughout this manual
are designed to lead the owner to the source of the
problem, quickly. Checklists give you on-the-spot in-
formation, without having to read too much text. In
addition, the large number of illustrations, photos,
and tables that support the accompanying text can
be easily accessed by clearly marked figure numbers.
The information contained in this repair manual
will guide you through most procedures. Although
your exact appliance or accessory may not be de-
scribed, the repair and/or service procedure is usu-
ally applicable with minor variations.
The information in the RV Repair & Muintenance
Manual would not be possible without the out-
standing cooperation of the industry manufac-
turers and suppliers. I am forever grateful for their
help. Special thanks go to Thetford, Tekonsha,
Dometic, Norcold, Onan, Kohler, Generac, Hayes
Axle, Hayes Lemmerz International, Atwood Mo-
bile Products, Suburban, Roadmaster, Automatic
Equipment, Magic Chef, RV Solar Electric, Wine-
gard, Reese, Eaz-Lift, SeaLand, Microphor, Bargman
Products, SHURflo, Sure Power, Thin-Lite, Teton
Homes, Fleetwood, Fan-Tastic Vent, Manchester
Tank, Intellitec, and a host of other industry sup-
pliers.
Assembling a manual of this magnitude was no
easy feat. It took a team of dedicated RV enthusi-
asts to assist in digesting the material from the var-
ious manufacturers and suppliers, integrating their
personal experience, knowledge, and talent, and,
finally, interpreting and communicating this in-
formation to you. Special thanks go to Rich John-
son, Brian Robertson, Bill and Jan Moeller, Larry
Thatcher, Scott Dalgleish, Chris Hemer, Kristopher
Bunker, and to Mike and Pam Steffen, without
whose help this book could not have been pub-
lished in such a timely manner.
Credit Rena Copperman and April Locke for the
editing, Bob Tinnon for the design of this book and
Cathy Williams for her production expertise.
It's nice to know the information contained herein
will help get you back on the road. The true reward,
of course, is being able to fix the problem yourself.
Happy Trails!
 ■ CHAPTER 1 ■
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
R
ecreational vehicles use 12-volt direct current
(DC) and/or 120-volt alternating current (AC)
power from a number of sources: onboard 12-volt
storage batteries, onboard 6-volt storage batteries
(wired in series), 120-volt AC campground hookups,
120-volt AC auxiliary generators, power converters,
power inverters, or photovoltaic cells (solar). The
120-volt AC in an RV is similar to that in a home
and, other than periodic checks for low voltage, usu-
ally requires little or no maintenance.
All 120-volt AC wiring for appliances and acces-
sories is protected by a series of circuit breakers lo-
cated inside the RV. The 120-volt AC system is
potentially dangerous and should not be modified
unless the user has sufficient understanding of AC
electricity.
■ TESTS AND CHECKS ■
FOR ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
Proper Use of 12-Volt DC Power
Twelve-volt DC power presents little danger of elec-
trical shock. Still, care must be taken when dealing
with 12-volt systems because DC power is capable
of producing large amounts of current. A short cir-
cuit or an overloaded circuit can generate a lot of
heat, melting insulation off wiring, damaging ap-
pliances, and creating potential for fire. To protect
against possible short circuits or fire, all circuits must
contain some type of over-current-protection device
(OCPD) that is rated no higher-than the conductor's
maximum ampere rating. Ideally, the OCPD (fuse
or circuit breaker) should be within 18 inches of the
power source.
Although troubleshooting RV electrical systems
may seem somewhat mysterious, most of these sys-
tems can be checked with simple tools. Interruptions
in current are the most common problems faced
by the RV owner. And these interruptions can be
diagnosed by use of an inexpensive 12-volt test light
or, preferably, a multimeter. While a test light indi-
cates when voltage exists, a multimeter can help iden-
tify breaks or shorts in circuits without the existence
of voltage. A multimeter also will show exact volt-
age. A digital multimeter is the best choice, since it
indicates precise voltage.
Using a Test Light
Checking power at a 12-volt DC appliance or a light
fixture can be easily accomplished by using a 12-volt
test light (Figure 1.1).
CAUTION: Be certain that you have properly differentiated between
12-volt DC and 120-volt AC appliances. Inserting the probe of a 12-volt
DC test light into a 120-volt AC wall outlet can cause a dangerous elec-
trical shock.
Most test lights consist of a plastic handle with a
small bulb inside. A wire lead with an alligator clip
at the end protrudes from the handle. The "business"
end of the tester is a sharp probe. A more sophisti-
cated test light has an internal battery, and, rather
than using an alligator clip attached to a ground
source, the ground is provided by your body. To op-
erate, the user probes the wire or contact with the
pointed end and touches a known good ground with
his or her hand. While these devices are handy in
many instances, they become cumbersome if you
need both hands for probing into a wire.
To test for power:
1.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 1.1 Checking for 12-volt DC power at an appliance, fixture, or fuse panel can be accomplished with a
simple test light.
1. Touch the probe to the positive post of the
battery and the alligator clip to the negative
post. The bulb should illuminate, confirming
that the tester is functioning. This test should
always be done first to determine that the test
light is working properly.
2. Connect the alligator clip to a good ground
or to the cold (negative) side of the item to
be checked, for example, the switch, the light
socket, or the wire.
3. With the power on, touch the probe to the
hot (positive) terminal or connection that
you wish to test. When checking wiring, the
probe must break the insulation. If you are
using a test light that needs a ground from
your body, touch a good ground source with
your finger or hand.
4. If the bulb illuminates, power is confirmed.
Using a Multimeter
As its name suggests, a multimeter has many func-
tions, making it one of the most versatile tools avail-
able to the do-it-yourselfer (Figure 1.2). A multimeter
can be used to check for voltage in either 120-volt AC
or 12-volt DC circuits. The ability to read the exact
voltage allows the owner to check battery condition,
battery-charging effectiveness, and voltage available
to appliances and fixtures, regardless of whether the
power source is a campground hookup or an on-board
AC generator. Before using a multimeter, the battery
inside the device should be checked (battery-check
position on scale), and the meter should be zeroed
according to manufacturer's instructions. This should
not be necessary with a digital multimeter.
Checking AC Voltage with a Multimeter
To check AC voltage, follow these steps (Figure 1.3):
1. Connect the probes to the multimeter, as in-
structed by the manufacturer. Most manufac-
turers require that the probes be inserted into
the multimeter first. Set the range selector to
the position that includes 120 volts AC. Most
likely, this value will be higher than 120.
2. Hook the RV electrical cord to campground
power, start the AC generator, or activate the
power inverter, depending on the source you
wish to test.

3. Insert the black probe into the larger wall
socket slot and the red probe into the
other. Read voltage. Then move black probe to
the circular slot. Read voltage.
4. Voltage range should be between 110 and 127
with no load on the system. Voltage will
rarely exceed 120 in campgrounds, but AC
generators may produce upward of 130 volts
with no load and will drop when a load is
switched into the system. If voltage falls be-
low 100 volts AC, motor-driven appliances
will be damaged, and 12-volt DC converters
may cease to function. Fortunately, most
newer AC appliances are protected against
low-voltage conditions. Voltage monitored at
the wall sockets should be the same as that of
the appliances and accessories.
Checking DC Voltage with a Multimeter
To check DC voltage, follow these steps:
1. Connect the probes in the multimeter first.
Set the range selector to a position that in-
cludes 12 volts DC. Usually the value here
will be higher.
2. Touch the red probe to the positive side of the
switch, accessory, or wire and the black probe
to the negative side or ground location.
3. With the power on, read the voltage. Voltage
will vary from near 0 (dead battery) to nearly
15 (output of a GM alternator in cold
weather), depending on conditions and the
type of equipment used. For example, a fully
charged battery that is not connected to a
load will produce voltage readings of about
12.6. Appliances will not operate properly
when voltage drops to about 10.5. RV con-
verters (battery chargers) will produce 13.8 to
14 volts and alternator output will vary from
13.5 to 15, depending on how much current
the alternator is producing and the ambient
temperature.
Checking Continuity and Resistance with a Multimeter
The ability to check for resistance to current flow is
important in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.3
flow of current is impeded by broken, corroded,
shorted, or poorly soldered or connected wires, re-
sistance occurs. To check for resistance:
1. Connect the multimeter probes in the appro-
priate slots. Set the selector switch to the ap-
propriate position to check continuity.
2. Touch the probes together: the ohms scale or
digital screen should read 0. Zero means that
there is no resistance while holding the two
probe tips together: current is moving freely
(Figure 1.4).
3. To check resistance in a wire, touch one
probe to one end of the wire and the second
probe to the other end. The meter should
read 0. If it does not, resistance may be
caused by wire damage, corrosion, or poor
connections (Figure 1.5).
4. To check for resistance in a solder joint or
solderless connection, touch the probes to
both sides of the connection and read the
scale. Zero means the connection is good;
any other position of the needle or other
reading of the digital meter means the solder
joint is cold or corroded and/or the connec-
tor is bad or badly crimped.
5. To check the resistance in a fuse, touch the
probes to the metal ends or tabs of the fuse
and read the scale. The needle should point
to 0. Bulbs can be checked by probing the
contact(s) and case and reading the scale
(Figure 1.6). The needle should point to 0.
Checking for Proper Polarity
It's important that proper polarity is maintained for
both 120-volt AC and 12-volt DC systems. Normally,
RV 12-volt DC systems are wired using the black wire
as the positive (hot) and the white wire as the neg-
ative (ground). In some cases, the rig can be wired
using a red wire for the positive and the black as the
ground. If the polarity is reversed, many 12-volt DC
appliances and accessories can become damaged.
If the battery leads are reversed, the converter relays
will usually chatter. Do not turn on any appliances
if the polarity is reversed. Although the lights will
work normally, sensitive electronics can become dam-
aged. If you have replaced or serviced the batteries,
1.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

verify voltage with a multimeter before using any ap-

pliances or accessories.
Improper wiring in the campground hookup re-
ceptacles—or in the rig—can create electrical prob-
lems. It's always prudent to check the polarity at the
campground hookup using a polarity and circuit tester
(available at RV supply stores) before plugging in the
power cord. If the polarity is wrong, inform the camp-
ground manager; do not attempt to fix it yourself.
Once you initially verify that the receptacles in your
RV (new rig, before the first trip) are wired correctly,
there should be no future problems here.
The wiring codes for 120-volt AC systems (Figure
1.7) are as follows: white is the common and larger
of the slots, black is hot, and green is ground (could
also be a bare wire).

Checking Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters

All new RVs must be equipped with a ground-fault

circuit interrupter (GFCI). These safety devices are
normally used around sinks, tubs, and showers. You'll
usually find them installed in the bath area, but some
can be found in the kitchen; outdoor receptacles are
also tied into GFCI units. They are designed to pro-
tect you from electrical shock should you come in
contact with an electrical appliance and water. The
GFCI reads the variance in current between the hot
and ground wires in the outlet. A short circuit draw-
Figure 1.2 Digital multimeter

Figure 1.3 Checking AC voltage with a digital multimeter; switch on AC scale


Figure 1.4 The multimeter will show no resistance
when the circuit is complete.
The multimeter readout shows a bro-
Figure 1.5
ken connection (resistance).
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.5
Figure 1.6 Multimeters are versatile tools for
checking for shorted circuits or lightbulb conditions.
ing current to ground (through a human body, for
instance) will vary the levels of current in the two
wires, and the GFCI will shut down the receptacle.
Any conductive path from the AC wiring to the
ground can trip a GFCI, and it only takes about 5
milliamperes to do the job.
All GFCI units used in RVs are equipped with a
test button to verify that the device is working prop-
erly. To test, press the "T" or test button; the "R" or
reset button should pop out immediately and the re-
ceptacle will go dead. Pressing the "R" button should
lock in place and restore power. If not, check for faulty
wiring or connections. If the wiring checks out, the
GFCI is bad and must be replaced.
In some cases, the wiring in the RV can cause the
GFCI in the campground hookup to trip. This can
be caused by a number of problems, but many times
moisture or corrosion on the power cord can cause
this problem. Moisture or corrosion in any of the
RV's wiring from the rig's GFCI can cause the park's
GFCI to trip.
1.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

strands of copper wire bundled together to form a

Figure 1.7 Wiring code for 120-volt AC receptacle
Under normal operation, the current supplied by
the hot wire returns through the neutral wire. If a dif-
ferent amount of current returns to the neutral wire,
the GFCI reads the condition as a ground fault and
trips the circuit breaker that's built into the unit. If
you suspect that the wiring in your rig is faulty, take
the RV to a qualified RV electrical technician and
have the system tested. Finding a ground fault can
be difficult without precise testing equipment.
specific gauge (size). Although primary wire gener-
ally ranges from 10- to 22-gauge (the smaller the
number, the larger the wire), most RVs are wired with
either 10-, 12-, or 14-gauge wire. Larger wire, such as
6- or 8-gauge, is also used in many cases, especially
when connecting the battery or batteries to a fuse
box or when wiring a charge line from a tow vehicle
to a trailer.
To determine the proper wire size for a specific
application, it is necessary to know the current or
ampere requirement of the appliance or accessory
and the length of wire needed for installation. Wire
that is too small for the rated amperage of the ap-
pliance will cause a voltage drop (lower voltage at
the terminus of the wire than at the power source),
which will lead to underperformance and possible
damage to the appliance. Most RV appliances and
accessories have a label that displays the rated am-
perage or wattage. Amperage can be determined from
known wattage by using the following formula:
watts
------ = amps
volts

Checking the Wiring Once amperage (units of electrical flow or vol-

In many cases, 12-volt DC appliances and accessories
will suffer operational losses when improper wiring
size and/or improper wiring techniques are used dur-
ing installation. The heart of the RV 12-volt DC elec-
trical system is primary wire, which differs from
120-volt wire because it is comprised of many smaller
ume) is determined, the proper wire can be selected
using tables established in the National Electrical Code
Handbook (Table 1.1).
Caution must be exercised when using the am-
perage-load chart because under certain circum-
stances the wire may be capable of handling a
specified load for a specified distance but will not

Table 1.1 Amperage load in circuit

Allowable conductor length (in feet) in a circuit before a 1 -volt loss occurs
Gauge 1 1.5 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 15 20 24 30 36 50 100 150 200

20 106 70 53 35 26 21 17 15 13 10 8 7 5 4 3 3 2 1 0 0
18 150 100 75 50 37 30 25 21 18 15 12 10 7 6 5 4 3 1 1 0
16 224 144 112 74 56 44 37 32 28 22 18 14 11 9 7 6 4 2 1 1
14 362 241 181 120 90 72 60 51 45 36 30 24 18 15 12 10 7 3 2 1
12 572 381 286 190 143 114 95 81 71 57 47 38 28 23 19 15 11 5 3 2
10 908 605 454 302 227 181 151 129 113 90 75 60 45 37 30 25 18 9 6 4
8 1452 967 726 483 363 290 241 207 181 145 120 96 72 60 48 40 29 14 9 7
6 2342 1560 1171 780 585 468 390 334 292 234 194 155 117 97 78 65 46 23 15 11
4 3702 2467 1851 1232 925 740 616 529 462 370 307 246 185 154 123 102 74 37 24 18
2 6060 4038 3030 2018 1515 1212 1009 866 757 606 503 403 303 252 201 168 121 60 40 30
1 7692 5126 3846 2561 1923 1538 1280 1100 961 769 638 511 384 320 256 213 153 76 51 38
0 9708 6470 4854 3232 2427 1941 1616 1388 1213 970 805 645 485 404 323 269 194 97 64 48

The above table is computed for a 68°F (20°C) ambient temperature.


Table 1.2 National Electrical Code Amperage
Wire Size Amperage Rating
18 6 faston terminals (Figure 1.11). The larger terminals
16 8 repeat the colors; 8-gauge terminals are usually red,
14 15
12 20
10 30
8 40
6 55
Source: National Electrical Code Handbook, (Quincy MA:
National Fire Protection Association, 1981), 70-494.
conform to recreational vehicle industry standards.
For example, Table 1.1 shows that a 16-gauge wire
can be used to operate an appliance that is within 11
feet of the power source and have an amperage rat-
ing of 20. However, to meet RV industry standards,
a 12-gauge wire must be used—based on Section 551
of the National Electrical Code Handbook (Table 1.2).
A typical circuit in an RV consists of a wire run-
ning from the positive terminal of the battery to a
fuse (or circuit breaker) and then to the appliance
or accessory (Figure 1.8). A second wire equal in size
to the positive wire must then be used to ground the
appliance or accessory to the negative side of the bat-
tery. In some cases, the RV chassis may be used as a
ground-circuit conductor. When the circuit is com-
pleted, electrons flow through wiring to the appli-
ance and return to the battery.
Although wiring is relatively easy to work with
and consists of no moving parts, installation in-
consistencies can cause failures. When possible, all
wiring should be routed inside conduit or wiring
looms. Grommets must be used where wires are
routed through walls or bulkheads, although sili-
cone sealant, if used properly (Figures 1.9 and 1.10),
works well in providing abrasion protection.
Checking Wire Terminals
Modem wire terminals have made soldering virtu-
ally unnecessary, but improper use of these con-
nectors can cause a number of problems. The
electrical industry has established standards for in-
sulated wire terminals and uses the following color
coding: red terminals can be used on 22- to 18-gauge
wire, blue represents 16- to 14-gauge, and yellow is
for 12- to 10-gauge. There are a number of terminals
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.7
available for almost any wiring job. The most com-
mon are ring spade, tongue spade, butt splice, and
and 6-gauge terminals can be blue.
Terminals are made up of three or four parts, de-
pending on the type and quality: wire barrel, tongue,
insulation, and strain-relief sleeve. When crimping a
terminal, the wire barrel tends to spread at the seam,
so it's best to look for a terminal in which the seam
is brazed shut or one that is seamless. This allows
the seam to remain closed so that a second crimp
can be made for strain relief.
Automotive terminals have either nylon or
polyvinyl chloride (PVC) insulation. Nylon is easier
to work with and allows a visual inspection of the
crimp, but PVC is less susceptible to cuts and mois-
ture. Nylon may be necessary when using the ter-
minals in an environment where certain chemicals
are present. Moisture can be sealed out of a termi-
nal by using a small length of shrink tubing over a
portion of the wire and terminal. Some terminals
have shrink tubing built into the insulation, which
is doubly advantageous, although these connectors
are more expensive.
How to Crimp a Terminal
Although solderless terminals offer superior connec-
tions, they are useless if the crimp is poorly executed.
Terminals should not be installed with pliers, vise
grips, or a rock. A proper crimping tool is required,
preferably one that is made by the terminal manu-
facturer. If the tool punctures the insulation during
the crimping procedure, the terminal should be dis-
carded. Once the proper connector and wire have been
matched, the following procedure should be used:
1. Strip off the insulation so that the bare wire
will protrude 1/32 to 1/16 inch past the wire bar-
rel of the terminal. Some tools have indica-
tors inscribed into the tool (Figure 1.12).
2. Place the terminal into the tool in the correct
die according to wire size. Apply gentle pres-
sure to hold the terminal in place.
3. Place the wire into the terminal (Figure 1.13).
4. Close the tool completely (Figure 1.14).
Some tools have two points that must be
1.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 1.8 A typical RV has both 12-volt DC and 120-volt AC wiring circuits. The power converter and batter-
ies supply 12-volt DC power; AC generator and campground hookups supply 120-volt AC power.

Figure 1.9 A grommet will protect the wire from Figure 1.10 Silicone can be used to protect the
damage when routed through metal. wire routed through metal if a grommet is not
available.
 CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.9

Figure 1.14 Terminals are placed in correspon-

Figure 1.11 Common solderless terminals include ding slots for crimping.
butt splice, ring spade, tongue spade, and faston
connectors.

Figure 1.12 Typical crimping tools have inscribed Figure 1.15 It is important to crimp the strain-
indicators to assist the user. relief portion of the terminal.

touched, indicating a proper crimp. The bet-

ter tools have a ratcheting mechanism that
will not release unless the crimp has been ex-
ecuted properly.
5. Move the tool to the strain-relief sleeve (if
supplied on terminal) and close the tool
completely (Figure 1.15). Many mechanics
fail to make this important crimp.
6. If using terminals with heat-shrink tubing
(Figure 1.16), apply the flame from a pro-
pane torch, match, or use a source of electric
Figure 1.13 Strip off enough insulation so wire fits heat after crimping. Stop heating when
properly into the terminal. sealant inside the tubing begins to ooze out
1.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 1.16 Terminals with built-in heat-shrink
tubing provide weather protection
Figure 1.17 Shrink tubing, cut to size, can be used
to protect terminals from the elements.
of the terminal insulation. A piece of shrink
tubing can be used to seal a connector
(Figure 1.17).
Wire Ties
The easiest method of bundling or securing wires
and cables is to use wire ties—sometimes referred to
as strap ties (Figure 1.18). These are thin nylon straps
that can be looped around the wire (and a station-
ary object, if necessary) and secured using a special
closure mechanism. Use only the black wire ties, es-
pecially on the exterior; they have superior resistance
Figure 1.18 Use wire ties (or strap ties) to bundle
or secure wires and cables.
to the ultraviolet light and the elements. Most wire
ties are not reusable and they must be cut off when
not needed.
■ BATTERIES ■
Recreational vehicles are usually equipped with two
types of batteries: engine starting and deep cycle. The
starting battery employed by either the tow vehicle
or motorhome engine is designed to provide high
amperage discharges for short periods, as required
by the starter motor. Deep-cycle batteries are designed
for low-amperage discharges to operate accessories
such as furnaces, lights, and entertainment systems.
Plates in deep-cycle batteries are constructed of higher-
density lead, which allows frequent deep discharges
without the accelerated shedding of material from
the plates that occurs when starting batteries are sub-
jected to this type of use. Starting batteries will fail
rapidly if repeatedly discharged heavily.
Engine-starting batteries have thin plates suspended
in electrolyte, sulfuric acid combined with water, gel,
or glass mat, depending on the design. These bat-
teries are rated in cold-cranking amps (CCA), which
is the maximum load a fully charged battery can de-
liver for thirty seconds at 0°F while maintaining at
least 7.2 volts. Some starting batteries can be main-
tenance free.
Deep-cycle batteries have fewer plates, but they
are thicker and coated with antimony or calcium,
which increases hardness. This design limits the
amount of lead that is sloughed off into the bottom
of the case due to repeated charging and discharging

cycles. Deep-cycle batteries are available in three
styles: conventional flooded-cell, gelled electrolyte,
and absorbed glass mat (AGM).
Flooded-cell batteries have been around for
decades and use acid and water electrolyte around
the positive and negative lead plates. Gel-type bat-
teries utilize a gel to immobilize the electrolyte and
calcium on the plates, which reduces the gassing.
AGM batteries are similar to gel cells, but the elec-
trolyte is absorbed by a fine glass mat. Like the gel
cell, AGM batteries recombine the gases during charg-
ing, limiting gassing. Gel and AGM batteries are
sealed, virtually eliminating corrosion problems as-
sociated with flooded-cell batteries.
One plate is positive and the other is negative. As
the battery delivers power (discharging), the acid
in the electrolyte enters the positive and negative
plates. The electrolyte becomes weaker as the acid is
depleted until the battery cannot deliver power at a
useful voltage. By reversing the current flow (charg-
ing), the sulfuric acid is returned to the electrolyte
from the plates (Figure 1.19).
Electrolyte management (maintaining proper wa-
ter levels), combined with proper charging techniques
and intervals, can make the difference in perform-
ance and battery longevity. Maintenance-free and
sealed batteries do not require water replenishment.
Battery Ratings
Reserve capacity is the amount of time the battery can
sustain a discharge at a specified level. Different lev-
els are used to rate different batteries. Reserve-
capacity ratings are based on how long the battery
will sustain a 25-amp load at 80 °F before voltage
drops to 10.5. In real-world conditions, the 25-amp
load does not usually represent the average RV load,
which is closer to 10 amps. Battery-reserve capacity
lasts longer at lower discharge rates. For example, the
common Group-27 RV deep-cycle battery may be
rated at 160 minutes. This same battery also may
carry the old-style ampere-hour rating—in this case
105 ampere-hours. The amp-hour rating is a meas-
ure of reserve capacity and only approximately 60
percent of the capacity that is usable. The amp-hour
rating is the amount of current that can be drawn
from a battery for twenty hours before voltage drops
to 10.5. That's about a 5-amp load for twenty hours.
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.11
Table 1.3 Capacities of Typical 12-volt, Deep-cycle,
Wet-cell Group 24 and 27 Batteries
Accessory Draw Power Provided*
Amps Group 24 Group 27
5 16.0 hrs 19.0 hrs
15 4.6 5.4
25 2.5 3.0
’Hours of continuous power, based on i peak performance.
But it's best to subtract about 20 percent from that
figure to compensate for less-than-ideal charging
conditions and system losses.
Battery-Depletion Test
Most deep-cycle batteries are rated by their respective
manufacturers as to how long they will sustain a spe-
cific load. Tables (Table 1.3) are provided by the man-
ufacturers. You can use these tables—minus the 20
percent for real-world conditions—or perform your
own depletion test to compare actual performance.
This can be especially important when determining
your battery needs. To perform a depletion test:
1. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Use a
multimeter or hydrometer to confirm.
2. Turn on the interior lights to create a 5-amp
load, measuring the load with the ammeter
function of the multimeter. Record the time.
3. Monitor time and voltage until voltage drops
to 10.5.
Testing the Battery
The three methods for testing a battery are: checking
electrolyte with a hydrometer, voltage measurement,
and load testing. A hydrometer measures the bat-
tery's state of charge by comparing the weight of the
electrolyte to the weight of water (specific gravity).
Because temperature affects specific gravity, a tem-
perature-correcting hydrometer must be used. An ad-
justable battery condition/load tester takes all the
guesswork out of checking a maintenance-free bat-
tery. Load testers are usually only available at repair
facilities, but maintenance-free-battery conditions
can be determined by reading open-circuit voltage
and comparing it to a table (Table 1.4).
1.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 1.19 Components of a lead-acid, wet-cell battery typically used in RVs.

Table 1.4 Open-Circuit Voltage CAUTION: Battery acid is corrosive and can damage painted sur-
Voltage State of Charge (%) faces, metal parts, clothing, skin, or eyes. If spilled, use baking soda and
12.6 or higher 100 water to neutralize the acid. Flush immediately and seek medical atten-
12.4 75
tion if acid is accidentally spilled on skin or squirted in eyes.
12.2 50
12.0 25
11.7 0

Open-Circuit Voltage Test

Checking Electrolyte with Hydrometer
To check a battery's open-circuit voltage, follow these
To check a battery using a hydrometer, follow these steps:
steps (Figure 1.20):
Table 1.5 Specific Gravity Values
1. Remove battery caps. Charge Level (%) Specific Gravity
2. Insert the syringe into the cell and extract the 100 1.265
electrolyte. 75 1.225
3. Hold at eye level and read the specific gravity 50 1.190
25 1.155
(Table 1.5). Discharged 1.120
4. Return the electrolyte to cell.
 CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.13

■ T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE B A T T E R Y

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Excessive use of wafer, corrosion deposits on caps, Overcharging Check regulator, check converter,
excessive case heat, warped or broken plates, replace battery
active material shedding, damaged separators
Excessive vibration Repair hold-down
Not holding a charge Undercharging Check regulator, check converter

Loose fan belt Tighten fan belt

Sulfation Perform slow charge
Bad battery Replace battery
Low electrolyte Replenish
Won't start engine Low voltage Recharge battery, load-test.
Low electrolyte Replenish
Loose cable terminal Tighten terminals
Bad cable terminal Replace terminal
Corroded terminals Clean corrosion
Worn or broken cables Replace cables

Cold/hot weather Use larger battery

Will not operate appliances and accessories Low voltage Recharge battery, load-test.
Low electrolyte Replenish
Loose cable terminal Tighten terminals
Bad cable terminal Replace terminal
Corroded terminals Remove corrosion
Break in wiring Check wiring

Bad battery Replace battery

No power Check battery, clean terminals,
check wiring
Check fuse box
Low output from alternator or converter Check charging sources

1. Perform this test only if the battery has not
been charged within the previous twenty-four
hours (so surface charge will be depleted).
Surface charge can be depleted by turning on
a 10-amp load for five minutes.
2. Remove the negative battery cable (to make
sure no load is on the battery).
3. Read the voltage with an accurate voltmeter.
4. Reconnect the battery cable.
Battery state of charge can be determined by com-
paring voltage to the percentage of charge listed in the
open-circuit voltage chart (see Table 1.4, page 1.12).
For example, if the voltage read at the voltmeter is 12.6
volts or higher, the battery is fully charged. A battery
is completely discharged at 11.7 volts.
Charging the Battery
Recreational-vehicle batteries are commonly charged
by the vehicle's engine alternator, the power converter,
and solar panels. The alternator will do a good job
of charging both the starting and house battery(ies),
1.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Table 1.6 Battery-charging guide for fixed-rate

external chargers
Rated Reserve Capacity*
(in minutes) Slow Charge Fast Charge
80 or less 10 hrs. at 5 amps 2.5 hrs. at 20 amps
5 hrs. at 10 amps 1.5 hrs. at 30 amps
80 to 125 15 hrs. at 5 amps 3.75 hrs. at 20 amps
7.5 hrs. at 1 0 amps 1.5 hrs. at 50 amps
125 to 170 20 hrs. at 5 amps 5 hrs. at 20 amps
1 0 hrs. at 1 0 amps 2 hrs. at 50 amps
170 to 250 30 hrs. at 5 amps 7.5 hrs. at 20 amps
15 hrs. at 10 amps 3 hrs. at 50 amps
Over 250 24 hrs. at 1 0 amps 6 hrs. at 40 amps
4 hrs. at 60 amps

NOTE: These charging rates and times are guidelines and should
only be used if battery manufacturer's recommendations are not
available.
^Indicates the number of minutes the battery will sustain a
25-ampere load before voltage falls to 10.5 (12-volt battery).

small amperage output (about 5 percent of the bat-

Figure 1.20 Checking wet cell specific gravity with
a hydrometer.
provided it is rated high enough to supply the de-
mands of appliances and accessories being operated
while driving and still have a surplus for battery charg-
ing. All batteries should be returned to a full state of
charge before storing the RV. Extended driving with
an alternator that is producing voltage levels of 14 to
15 (depending on temperature) will usually bring a
battery to a full state of charge.
Most power converters are inefficient when it
comes to charging batteries (see page 1.22). Lower
line units will only provide 4 to 7 amps for battery
charging. A good solar system, on the other hand,
can provide efficient charging, providing there's
enough sun (see page 1.24).
Batteries that become depleted can be restored
to a full state of charge by using a portable charg-
ing unit found in many auto-parts and marine-sup-
ply stores. Most portable units are designed to taper
the charge as battery condition improves, but the
use of a nonautomatic charger with a constant,
tery's rated amp-hour capacity) also is effective
(Table 1.6).
CAUTION: Careful attention must be paid to prescribed limits of
charging time when using a nonautomatic charger. Substantial over-
charging can cause case meltdown or serious gassing (release of hydro-
gen and oxygen), which can cause an explosion.
The latest generation of smart chargers is the most
effective. These units provide automatic, multi-stage
charging:
Bulk-Charge Stage Provides constant current, up to
it's maximum rating, for maximum recharging.
Smart chargers enter this phase as soon as the
charger is activated (AC power via hookup or gen-
erator). The charger delivers this high rate of in-
put until the acceptance charge voltage limit is
reached. At the bulk rate the battery is held to a volt-
age where the battery electrolyte just begins to bub-
ble and give off gas (gassing point). If the charging
stops short of this point, sulfate is left on the bat-
tery plates and the battery begins to deteriorate. The
gassing point will vary with battery temperature. At
77 degrees F, the gassing point of a 12-volt battery
is about 14.0 volts.
Gel cell and AGM batteries can accept a higher
current rate of charge (amps), but higher voltage
charging can be damaging. They typically require a
lower bulk charge voltage and a higher float volt-
age than wet-cell batteries.
 CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.15

Absorption-Charge Stage (Acceptance Charge) This
stage immediately follows the bulk charge. During this
stage the battery voltage is maintained at a specific ab-
sorption level to complete the charge without over-
heating or overcharging the batteries. The battery
accepts its final charge current, the last of the sulfate
on the battery plates is removed and the battery is
completely charged. Average time for the acceptance
charge is one hour for flooded-cell 12-volt batteries;
three hours for gel cells and one hour for AGM bat-
teries.
Float-Charge Stage The last stage is the float charge. The
float charge holds the battery voltage at a lower, pre-
set level for long-term battery maintenance. During
the float stage, the full output current of the battery
charger is available to operate any DC appliances.
The float stage continues until the charger is dis-
connected from AC power.
Equalizing Stage is a separate charge for flooded-cell
batteries only. This is a controlled, overcharge cycle
where the charger will hold at voltages up to around
16.3, with small current flow. After a pre-set pe-
riod of time, the voltage gradually tapers back to a
float charge. This equalization process is recom-
mended by all manufactures of deep-cycle batteries,
to be done monthly, or every other month, depending
on the brand of battery.
There are several advantages to equalizing RV bat-
teries. It removes all residual sulfate coating from
the battery plates. Sulfates build on the battery plates
over time and battery use. As the sulfating grows,
the ability of the battery to maintain a charge de-
creases. Equalizing also brings all the cells in the
battery to the same state of charge and capacity, and
mixes the electrolyte by the vigorous bubbling ac-
tion of the high voltage. DO NOT EQUALIZE GEL CELL OR
AGM BATTERIES.
Overcharged Batteries Overcharging is a common rea-
son for premature battery failure. A faulty voltage
regulator is usually the culprit. Designed to limit the
output voltage of the alternator, it turns the field cur-
rent on and off so that constant voltage is attained.
A voltage regulator can be either an internal part of
the alternator or an external piece of equipment.
Electrical converters built into RVs can cause over-
charging over long periods by providing voltage lev-

General Battery Charging Cautions

■ Be sure the area around the battery is well ventilated while the battery is being charged.
■ Ensure that the battery terminal connections are secure and not corroded.
■ Locate the charger as far away from the battery as the DC cables permit.
■ Never mount the charger directly above the batteries being charged. Gases from the batteries will corrode and damage the charger. It is
also possible that the gases from the battery may cause an explosion or fire.
■ Never try to charge a frozen battery. Charging a battery when its temperature is lower than 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) is inefficient and
ineffective. If possible, warm the battery to room temperature before charging.

General Battery Cautions________________________________________________________________________________________________

■ Working in the vicinity of a flooded type, lead -acid battery can be dangerous. Batteries generate explosive gasses during normal operation.
Someone should be within range of your voice or close enough to be able to come to your aid while working on batteries.
■ Never smoke or introduce a flame in the vicinity of batteries.
■ Avoid dropping metal tools or objects when working with batteries. A resulting spark or short circuit may cause burns or an explosion.
■ Prior to working with batteries, remove all rings, watches, bracelets or other metal items. A lead-acid battery produces enough current to
weld a ring or other metal, causing a severe burn.
■ Wear complete eye and clothing protection while working around batteries.
■ Avoid touching your eyes while working around batteries.
■ If battery acid contacts your skin or clothing, neutralize with baking soda and water, and wash immediately with soap and cold water.
■ If acid enters your eyes, flood the eye(s) immediately with running cold water for at least 20 minutes. Get medical attention immediately.
1.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
els that are high enough to cause continual battery
gassing. Voltage of the converter should not be higher
than 13.8 for long-term use with conventional
open-cell batteries. It can be about 14 volts when
maintenance-free or sealed batteries are being used.
Overcharging can be a significant problem with
batteries that have been discharged too deeply. Bat-
teries should not be depleted further than 80 percent
(10.5 volts under a 5-amp load). When overdis-
charging, the acid will not recombine with the elec-
trolyte medium as rapidly as it should. High current
flow creates heat, which can permanently derate the
battery. In the case of overdischarging, make sure
recharging is limited to the capacity divided by 20
(5.25 amps for a 105-amp battery) until 20 percent
of the battery's capacity has been restored.
Undercharged Batteries Undercharging is a common
cause of battery failure. The voltage regulator or a
slipping fan belt can be the reason. Fan belts should
be tightened to allow for about 1 inch of deflection
at the center. Belts should be free from cracks, brit-
tleness, and glazing. It's important to check belts pe-
riodically and replace them at the first sign of
weakening. During cold weather, batteries will not
accept a charge as easily. If the vehicle is used for
short trips during winter, the battery may never gain
the necessary charge to be effective.
Sulfated Batteries Batteries become sulfated when al-
lowed to remain in a discharged state for too long.
Lead sulfate forms on negative plates during the nor-
mal process of battery discharge. Problems occur only
when the sulfate remains on the plates too long and
hardens; this begins within a month, if the battery
is left in a discharged state. The hard coating acts like
varnish, restricting the electrolyte's ability to pene-
trate the plates. Battery capacity is reduced as sulfa-
tion increases. Moderate sulfation may be broken by
slow-charging the battery for twenty-four hours at a
6- to 8-ampere rate. This is not effective, though, in
severe cases. Once a battery becomes badly sulfated,
it should be discarded.
Analysis of voltage output can be helpful in di-
agnosing problems with insufficient battery-reserve
power. Voltage can be checked at the batteries while
the engine is running to determine the proper out-
put of the alternator. Using a multimeter, check volt-
age of each battery; the voltage with the engine
running should be between 14 to 14.8. Voltage checks
should not be performed when the battery is in a
low state of charge.
Although there may be adequate voltage output
from the alternator—or electrical converter—it's im-
portant that the available voltage is seen at the bat-
tery. Voltage drop can decrease the charging efficiency
dramatically. Check the voltage at the alternator or
converter and at the batteries. The difference should
not be more than 0.2 volts. If a large voltage drop
is noticed, install heavier gauge wiring.
Battery-Voltage-Drop Test
The voltage-drop test for vehicles with no isolator
but with mechanical relay is as follows:
1. Deplete voltage of auxiliary battery to 10.5
volts by using several interior lights.
2. Set engine idle to 1,500 RPM.
3. Check voltage at the alternator output
terminal.
4. Check the voltage at the positive post of the
auxiliary battery. If the voltage drop exceeds
0.2 to 0.3 volts, the wire size is inadequate,
connections are bad, terminals are bad, or
the relay is creating resistance.
5. Recharge the battery when the test is completed.
NOTE: Check voltage at input and outlet terminals while
relay is carrying heavy load. Reading at both terminals should
be equal.
The voltage-drop test for vehicles with a solid-
state, diode-type isolator is as follows:
1. Deplete the auxiliary battery to 10.5 volts
using the preceding procedure.
2. Set the engine speed to 1,500 RPM; check
the voltage at the output terminal on the
alternator.
3. Check the voltage at the A-post (alternator)
on the isolator. The voltage drop should not
be more than 0.2 volts.
4. Check the voltage at the auxiliary-battery
output terminal of the isolator.
5. Check the voltage at auxiliary battery. The
voltage drop should not be more than
0.3 volts.
 CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.17

NOTE: Voltage may not be the same in both preceding
tests. Isolator diodes can create a voltage drop of around 1 volt.
Fortunately, the isolator causes the alternator output to rise
about 1 volt. This compensates for the drop across the diodes.
6. Recharge the battery when the test is
completed.
Installing a Battery
To install a battery, follow these steps:
1. Make sure the battery is filled with the
proper amount of electrolyte (if not a main-
tenance-free type). Never add electrolyte af-
ter the first filling; add only distilled water.
2. Clean the terminal posts with a wire brush
until the metal shines.
3. Turn off all power draw, including lights
and accessories. If the negative cable sparks
during removal, a draw is still present.
4. Notice the position of the battery in the tray
in relation to polarity .
5. Disconnect the cables, negative first, and re-
move the old battery.
6. Make sure the carrier and the hold-down
hardware are free of corrosion.
7. Check terminals and cables.
8. Install terminals, observing polarity.
9. Install hold-down hardware.
NOTE: Vibration can destroy batteries, so make sure
battery is secure.
10. Observe polarity before starting engine or
activating the battery switch in motorhomes
or trailers. Reverse polarity can damage the
battery electrical system, the alternator, and
the voltage regulator.
Be sure to properly discard old batteries. Most serv-
ice stations and auto-parts stores will take the bat-
tery in trade or require its return in lieu of a core charge.
connected to each other and the two negative posts
are also connected. The load can be connected to ei-
ther battery, but it is preferable to connect the posi-
tive load cable to one battery and the negative load
cable to the other (Figure 1.21). The number of bat-
teries is usually dependent on electrical needs,
recharging capability, and available space. Batteries
connected in parallel should be the same brand, type,
and age to minimize the interaction that reduces
long-term capacity.
Series connection of batteries produces higher
voltage. For example, two 6-volt batteries wired in
series produce 12-volt output. In a series hookup,
the negative cable from one battery is attached to the
positive cable of the other. The remaining two posts
are connected to the load . A common practice is to
connect two 6-volt golf-cart (electric-vehicle) bat-
teries in series. Electric-vehicle batteries usually have
high reserve-capacity ratings and can withstand deeper
discharges over a longer period of time.
Battery Cables
The selection of battery cables is determined by the
size of the battery and the proper routing length
(Table 1.7). Battery cables are available as custom or
ready-made assemblies. Caution must be exercised
when choosing a ready-made cable because a thick
insulation may be concealing a much smaller gauge
wire. For example, many booster cable sets are only
8-gauge wire, even though the insulation appears as
thick as a battery cable used in engine compartments.
Cables can be custom made one of three ways: us-
Table 1.7 Recommended Wire and Cable Sizes for
Charging Systems
Alternator Output Maximum Amperes Wire Size
To 40 40-60 60-80 80-100 100-130 130-160 (AWG)
Maximum Distance Alternator to Battery (In feet)
5 14

7 5 12

12 8 6 10
Hooking Up Multiple Batteries 18 12 9 8 8
30 20 15 12 9 6

Parallel hookup is the common wiring method when 45 30 23 19 14 12 4

50 38 30 24 20 2
more than one 12-volt battery is used to operate ap-
50 40 30 25 1
pliances and accessories in a motorhome or trailer.
48 38 30 0
This is accomplished when the two positive posts are
1.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 1.21 Twelve-volt batteries are wired in parallel and 6-volt batterires are wired in series in RVs.

ing bolt-on terminals, soldering, or crimping. Bolt-

on terminals should be avoided except for emergency
situations because they cannot be properly attached or
sealed to prevent corrosion. Corrosion that starts in a
terminal can travel, in time, the entire length of the ca-
ble. Soldering works well, but the integrity of the con-
nection is only as good as the mechanic's soldering
procedures; a cold solder joint can cause resistance,
which leads to voltage loss. Crimping usually can only
be performed by a qualified mechanic because the tools
required to attach solderless terminals to a battery ca-
ble cost hundreds of dollars and are not likely to be
part of an owner's toolbox (Figure 1.22). Custom ca-
Figure 1.22 Special crimping tool is used to attach
bles should be finished with approximately 1-1/2 inches
terminals to the battery cable.
of sealant-filled shrink tubing to protect the cable ends
from moisture and corrosion (Figure 1.23).

Care of Cables and Terminals

Cables are the main links to the battery. If a termi-

nal is loose, dirty, or broken, power can be disrupted
or become erratic. Periodic inspection should in-
clude the following:

■ Check cables for breaks, corrosion, or

stripped insulation.
■ Check terminals for tightness. Make sure ter- Figure 1.23 Heat shrink tubing protects the
minals are securely fitted to cable. terminal from the elements.

■ Remove terminals, negative first, and clean
with solution of baking soda and water.
■ Clean terminal posts with baking soda and
water. Replace all suspect cables and terminals.
■ Apply thin layer of petroleum jelly or com-
mercial protectant to posts; connect termi-
nals, observing polarity. Do not apply too
much protectant on the terminals.
Using Jumper Cables
Although the practice of using a booster battery from
one vehicle to start the engine of a second vehicle
with a dead battery seems elementary, many peo-
ple are injured by not following safe procedures (Fig-
ure 1.24).
The correct procedure is as follows:
1. Make sure terminals on both batteries are tight.
2. Turn off ignition keys and place gear selector
in Park or manual shifter in Neutral.
3. Attach the end of one cable to the positive
terminal on the discharged battery.
4. Attach the other end of the first cable to the
positive post on the booster battery.
5. Attach one end of the second cable to the
negative terminal on the booster battery.
Figure 1.24 Jump-starting a vehicle with a dead battery requires a safe hookup to avoid the possibility of
explosion.
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.19
6. Attach the other end of the second cable to a
good ground source such as the engine block
or frame. Do not connect to the negative ter-
minal of the discharged battery.
7. Attempt to start the stalled engine. If it does
not turn over, start the booster-battery engine
and hold at a fast idle for a few minutes or
until the stalled engine starts.
8. Once started, disconnect cables in exact re-
verse order as above.
NOTE: Inferior-grade cables or those made from light-gauge
wire are virtually useless in most dead-battery situations. Pur-
chase high-quality cables made from battery cable.
Battery Isolators
Recreational vehicles usually have at least two bat-
teries, one for starting the motorhome or tow-vehi-
cle engine and one (or more) for operating the 12-volt
DC house systems. An isolator is used to separate the
batteries, allowing the house battery loads to be
drained and not allow those loads to drain the main
engine battery when the engine is not running. Sep-
arating the batteries is called isolation and is achieved
by using one of two types of equipment: a solid-state
isolator or an electrically activated mechanical so-
lenoid switch.
1.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance manual
How Solenoids Work
The simplest and least durable method of isolating
a battery is with a solenoid switch (Figure 1.25). The
basic switch—for a two-battery system—has three
terminals, one for each battery and one for connec-
tion to an ignition-switched 12-volt source. When
the power flows to the switch terminal on the sole-
noid (by turning the ignition switch to the on posi-
tion), the solenoid connects the batteries in parallel.
When the switch terminal is deactivated, the batter-
ies are separated, and only the auxiliary battery can
be discharged by the RV appliances. There is an in-
herent disadvantage with the solenoid switch: If the
switch contacts become damaged and are locked to-
gether, the owner may assume that the batteries are
separated when in fact they are not, causing a dead
starting battery. During extended use, the contact
points of the switch typically become pitted or coated
with black deposits, causing voltage drop (loss of po-
tential to transmit current) and reducing the ability
of the alternator to charge the house batteries.
These black deposits on the copper contacts are
usually caused by the resultant arcing during the
switching process. This natural phenomenon is usu-
ally more prevalent when the solenoid is switched
under minimum load. The arcing created under a
higher load will most times wipe the contact area
clean. The pitting and black deposits are created when
the arc in the atmosphere burns a little bit of oxygen
Figure 1.25 Wiring hookup for a dual-battery
mechanical solenoid
and mixes with the copper surface of the contacts.
This makes cupric oxide. When enough of this ma-
terial is formed, the contacts become insulated and
act as if they are open, when they are actually closed
and supposedly completing the circuit. The inges-
tion of water inside the solenoid casing can acceler-
ate this process. Most RV manufacturers use solenoids
with copper-to-copper contacts. If you find that you
are experiencing a voltage loss (perform voltage drop
tests described on page 1.16), replace the solenoid
with one that has silver-to-silver contacts. Many auto-
parts stores, such as Napa, sell this type of solenoid.
Solid-State Isolators
Solid-state isolators (Figure 1.26) separate two or
more batteries using diodes that are one-way check
valves. Each battery receives current from the alter-
nator, but the batteries are never connected in par-
allel. When the auxiliary battery is being discharged,
a diode keeps the starting battery from being dis-
charged with the auxiliary batteries. Current can only
flow from the alternator. When the engine is started,
the isolator controls current flow to both batteries,
charging each as its needs dictate. The solid-state iso-
lator allows effective, independent charging of bat-
teries by the same alternator.
Figure 1.26 Wiring hookup for a multi-battery,
solid state isolator
 CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.21

Table 1.8 Electrical Tests to Assure Proper Operation of Battery Isolator*

Test Operation
"A" terminal (engine off) May read from 0-12 volts

#1 terminal of isolator (engine off) Should read vehicle battery voltage

#2 terminal of isolator (engine off) Should read auxiliary battery voltage

"E" terminal (engine off) Should read 0 volts

"PC terminal (engine running and alternator charging) Should be 14.8 to 15.2 volts which is .8 to 1 volt higher than the
reading of #1, #2, and "E" terminals
#1 terminal of isolator (engine running) Should read 13.8 to 14.2 volts

#2 terminal of isolator (engine running) Should read 13.8 to 14.2 volts

"E" terminal (engine running and alternator charging) Should read approximately the same voltage as the batteries (13.8 to 14.2 volts)

*For a 12-volt system, the "A" post should read approximately 15 volts. The #1 and #2 posts should read 13.8 to 14.2 volts. If the "PC post
reads 13.8 to 14.2 volts the regulator is sensing the alternator output rather than the main battery.

Typically, a diode will cause a voltage drop of about 4. Crimp terminals on appropriate length of
0.8 volt. If the proper isolator is used and the in- wire to reach from the isolator to the alterna-
structions are followed closely the alternator's reg- tor (Table 1.9). Attach one end of wire to ter-
ulator will compensate for the voltage drop (Table minal A on isolator and the other to the BAT
1.8). Thus voltage available to the house batteries terminal on the alternator. For engines with
is not reduced compared to a direct hookup that does Delcotron CS Series alternators, follow step 5.
not utilize diodes. For engines manufactured in 1985 and later,
follow step 6. For all others, jump to step 7.
5. Delcotron CS Series alternators require an ex-
Installing a Multiple-Battery Isolator ternal exciter that is wired from a separate ter-
minal on the isolator, usually marked E.
To install a multiple-battery isolator, follow these Locate a source of 12-volt DC power con-
steps (Figures 1.27 and 1.28):

1. Remove negative terminals from all batteries. Table 1.9 Determining Proper Wire Size
2. Mount isolator in a convenient location away Alternator Wire Gauge
Rating 10 ft. 11-15 ft . 15-20 ft. 20- -25 ft. 25-30 ft.
from exhaust manifolds or other sources of
high heat. Up to 70 amp 10 8 8 6 6
70 to 95 8 8 6 6 4
3. Locate the BAT terminal on the alternator
95 to 120 6 6 4 2 i
(usually the largest wire), remove it, and at-
120 to 160 4 4 2 2 0
tach to terminal 1 on the isolator.

■ T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G
THE M U L T I P L E - B A T T E R Y I S O L A T O R S O L E N O I D

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Battery boils or overcharges Shorted diode Replace isolator

All batteries go dead Defective solenoid contacts Replace solenoid
Open diode Replace isolator
One battery not charging Open diode Replace isolator
Low battery voltage Defective diode Replace isolator
1.22 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

trolled by the ignition switch. Connect a wire the other end to the A terminal on the isolator.
from the 12-volt source through a 6-10-amp Attach a wire to both cut wires leading from
circuit breaker to the E terminal on the isola- the harness and connect the other end to ter-
tor. Be sure not to use the accessory position minal 1 on the isolator. Proceed to step 7.
of the ignition switch as a source of 12-volt 7. Attach a length of wire to terminal 2 on the
power. The use of a kit such as Sure Power's isolator and to one terminal on an appropri-
Model 144 is necessary to connect the sense ately sized circuit breaker (Table 1.10). Attach
wire to the alternator. Proceed to step 7. one end of a length of wire long enough to
6. Certain late-model Ford alternators do not reach from the isolator to the auxiliary bat-
have a BAT terminal but instead have a tery to the unattached terminal of the circuit
plug-in terminal (Figure 1.29). To wire the breaker and the other to the positive terminal
isolator, first disconnect the battery. Locate of the battery.
the connector on the alternator with one
Table 1.10 Circuit Breakers for Charging Systems
light wire and two heavy black wires. Cut the
Alternator Expected Recommended
black/orange wires leaving approximately Rating Load Breaker
2 inches to allow for a butt connector. Up to 90 amps 40 amps 50 amps
CAUTION: Damage may occur if wire is cut beyond cabling. Up to 120 amps 70 amps 80 amps
Attach a wire to both cut wires from the Up to 1 50 amps 110 amps 1 20 amps
Up to 200 amps 140 amps 150 amps
alternator (use butt connector) and connect

Figure 1.27 Wiring diagram for installing a multi-battery isolator in vehicles with Group 2 alternators.

Figure 1.28 Wiring diagram for installing a multi-
battery isolator in vehicles with Group 3 alternators.
8. Repeat step 5 for each additional battery
when using three- and four-battery isolators.
9. Reconnect negative terminals on all batteries.
■ POWER CONVERTERS ■
Modem recreational-vehicle appliances and acces-
sories operate on two electrical systems: 12-volt DC
and 120-volt AC power. In order to avoid duplica-
tion of fixtures and some appliances, a power con-
verter is used to transform 120-volt AC power to
12-volt DC power when the RV is plugged into a
campground receptacle or when connected to the
output of an AC generator. The converter supplies
12-volt DC power to items such as interior lights,
fans, and the water pump while the 120-volt AC in-
put to the RV provides household current to the wall
outlets, air-conditioner, refrigerator, etc. The con-
verter also charges the batteries, although the am-
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.23
Figure 1.29 Wiring diagram for installing a multi-
battery isolator in Ford vehicles using alternators
with plug-in connections.
perage output often is too low to be effective for
short-term charging. Converters may also incorporate
120-volt AC circuit breakers and a 12-volt DC
fuse panel.
CAUTION: Internal converter repairs should be left to a qualified
service technician.
There are two types of power converters, dual out-
put (linear) and single output, sometimes called battery
floater. The dual-output converter (Figure 1.30) is
the most common and is usually the least expensive.
It has two output circuits, one for operating the RV
appliances and one to charge the batteries. With this
type of converter, battery charging is usually not very
effective. Also, the output for the appliances is often
dirty, producing voltage surges that can damage sensitive
electronics. Usually there are provisions for hooking up
these accessories and appliances.
A single-output converter (Figure 1.31) is more ef-
ficient and usually more expensive. The battery is al-
ways on line and the voltage is filtered so that ripples
and surges are minimal. The older versions used a
ferroresonant design (transformers)( and the newer
units use high-frequency switching (solid-state elec-
tronics). Converters do not provide complete charg-
ing and cell equalization.
Both types of converters limit voltage to just less
than 14 volts, which helps eliminate battery gassing.
Since the output of the dual-outlet converter splits the
output, battery charging is usually very ineffective. In
1.24 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
single-outlet converters, all the output is directed to
the battery. The amount of power required by appli-
ances is subtracted from the output available for bat-
tery charging. Thus, when demands of appliances are
low, the battery-charge capability is higher and vice
versa. The charging circuit will automatically taper
off as the battery comes closer to a full state of charge
Low-voltage output can be checked using a mul-
timeter set to the DC-voltage function. When the bat-
tery is at full charge, the output of the converter should
be 13.8 to 14 volts. If lower voltage is detected, the
manufacturer may be able to make necessary adjust-
ments. The converter should be checked for signs of
corrosion, and its mounting location should be kept
free from stored supplies, especially flammables. Con-
verters create heat and require adequate ventilation.
Some of the higher-line converters feature tem-
perature monitoring or have provisions for the owner
to set operating conditions to prevent overcharging.
The better converters also have provisions for se-
lecting the type of battery being charged: flooded or
gel-cell. Completed-charge voltage is slightly lower
for gel-cell batteries.
Inverters
Inverters transform 12-volt DC power into 120-volt
AC household current (Figure 1.32). Inverters allow
use of 120-volt AC convenience items without the
Figure 1.30 Power output of dual outlet or linear converters is split, limiting battery-recharge capability.
need to operate an AC generator or to connect to
campground power. The most common use of an in-
verter is to power color television sets, stereos, food
processors, microwave ovens, and computers, with
only a specific number of appliances used at one
time, depending on the inverter's output rating and
the amount of power required by the appliance.
Teamed up with good deep-cycle batteries and an
adequate charging system, an inverter provides con-
tinuous noise-free power. Make sure you use an in-
verter with a pure or modified sine wave. Inverters
pull a great amount of energy from a battery, so ju-
dicious use is required.
To determine the size inverter for your particular
needs, you first must list the continuous power rat-
ings in watts of all the appliances you intend to op-
erate (Table 1.11). Unless you plan on operating more
than one appliance at a time, the inverter's size can
be dictated by the appliance with the highest draw.
When using multiple appliances, the wattage ratings
must be totaled to determine the minimum inverter
rating. Wattage can be determined by multiplying
the amperage times the voltage. For example, if a
120-volt AC color television is rated at 1 ampere, the
continuous wattage rating is 120.
When calculating the proper-size inverter, surge
ratings must be considered. Surge power is the ad-
ditional wattage required to start the appliance; ap-
pliances with motors usually need much more power
to start than to operate continuously. Surge-power
 CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.25

Figure 1.31 Entire output of single outlet is available for battery charging.

Table 1.11 Continuous Power Consumption for Determining Proper-Size Battery Bank
Typical 120-volt AC Appliances
Appliance Wattage Although deep-cycle batteries can be discharged 80
Blender 1,000 percent before experiencing permanent damage, it's
Coffeemaker 1,380 best to allow for 50 percent cycling to improve bat-
Computer 60-100 tery longevity. Calculate the amp-hour usage between
Drill motor, %-inch 360
charging cycles and then use a battery bank twice
Electric blanket 120
that capacity. Appliances are rated in AC watts or AC
Freezer 500
amps. Use the following formula to determine the
Hair dryers 1,500

Ice maker 600-700

DC amp-hour draw for a 12-volt DC system (cour-
Microwave oven 800-1,500 tesy of Heart Interface):
Popcorn popper, hot-air 1400

Refrigerator 600 (AC amps x 10) x 1.1 x hours of operation =

Satellite dish 200-250
DC amp-hours
Soldering iron 40

Stereo 200

Television, 9-inch color 480 (AC watts ÷ 12) x 1.1 x hours of operation =
Toaster 1800 DC amp-hours
Trash compactor 800-1,000

VCR 20 The above formulas should be used to calculate

Washing machine 600
ratings may be available from the manufacturer of
the appliance. A good rule of thumb is to allow two
times the rating for televisions, blenders, microwave
ovens, entertainment systems, and drill motors, and
four times the continuous rating for large appliances
such as air compressors, freezers, washing machines,
trash compactors, and refrigerators.
Use 00-gauge battery cables when wiring the
inverter to the battery bank, and never run these cables
longer than 10 feet.
the number of amp-hours used between recharges
for each appliance (Table 1.12)
12-Volt DC Lighting
Most RVs are equipped with either incandescent or
fluorescent fixtures as the primary type of lighting.
Some motorhomes and trailers have 120-volt AC
lighting, but this type of lighting is usually used to
complement 12-volt DC lighting or used for aesthetics
in luxury coaches. Other than occasional bulb
1.26 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Table 1.12 Average Power Consumption of Typical Appliances

Run Times/Amp Hours*
Appliance Wattage 5 min. 15 min. 30 min. 1 hr. 2 hrs. 3 hrs. 8 hrs. 24 hrs.

Color TV, 1 3 inch 50 .33 1 2 4 8 12 32 96

Color TV, 19 inch 100 .66 2 4 8 16 24 64 192

VCR 50 .33 1 2 4 8 12 32 96

Lamp 100 .66 2 4 8 16 24 64 192

Blender 300 2 6 12

Curling iron 50 .33 1 2

Power drill, 3/8-inch 500 3.3 10 20

Ice maker** 200 2.6 5.2 10.4 15.6 41.6 83.2

Coffeemaker 1000 6.6 20 40 80 160

Refrigerator, 3 cu. ft.** 150 2 4 8 12 32 96

Refrigerator, 20 cu. ft.** 750 21 42 84 126 336 672

Microwave, compact 750 5 15 30 60 120 180

Microwave, full-size 1500 10 30 60 120 240 360

Vacuum 1100 7.3 22 44 88 176 264

*The figure in each column represents the total amp hours used (at 12-volt DC) based on various continuous run times.
‘‘Refrigeration is typically calculated using a 1/3-duty cycle.

Figure 1.32 Typical inverter installation in an RV


■ TRO U
Problem
N o D C power at appliances
Load protector continues to trip
NOTE: Inverters should be repaired internally only by qualified service technicians. If repairs are needed, seek help from an appropriate
repair facility.
CAUTION: When connecting the battery to the inverter, it is important to pay close attention to polarity. Some inverters do not have polarity
protection, and if the terminals are miswired, the inverter can be damaged.
replacement, interior lighting fixtures are usually
trouble free. On the other hand, outside marker lights
require constant attention.
Servicing Marker (Clearance) Lights
Check the following on outside marker lights:
■ Inspect each marker-light housing for cracks
in the red or orange cover. If cracked, replace
immediately. Moisture that's allowed to enter
the housing will result in corroded sockets
and/or shorting.
■ Make sure each housing is sealed between the
base and side wall. If not, remove the light,
clean up the surface and run a bead of sili-
cone before reinstalling.
Figure 1.33 Clearance light fixture uses a sealed-
bulb socket.
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.27
BLESHO O TI NG ■
T H E P O W E R I N V E R T E R
Possible Cause Correction
Blown fuse Replace fuse
Bad battery cable Replace cable
Discharged battery Charge battery
Tripped load protector Reset load protector
Appliance overload Reduce appliance load
■ If the light socket is corroded, replace the
marker light.
■ Use marker lights with sealed bulb sockets
and two wire leads (Figure 1.33). These are
more resistant to water and can be sealed to
the side wall more effectively.
CAUTION: Marker lights that are allowed to leak will cre-
ate serious dry-rot problems in the future. Frame structures that
become damaged due to dry rot can become structurally weak
and cause major damage to the RV.
Checking for Low Voltage
at a Light Fixture
If the light is dim, the voltage at the fixture must be
checked using the following steps:
1. Using a multimeter, read voltage at battery.
2. Remove the lens from the fixture.
3. Unscrew the fixture from the ceiling or the
wall.
4. Using a multimeter, touch the positive lead
to the black wire and the negative lead to the
white wire. If wire nuts are used to connect
the wires, remove them; otherwise probe the
multimeter leads through the wire insulation.
5. With the bulb/tubes in place and the switch
in the on position, read voltage. Voltage
should compare to that read at battery.
If voltage is low or incandescent lights are dim or
1.28 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
not working, proceed with the following steps:
1. Check and clean the terminals on both the
bulb and the socket. Clean with crocus cloth.
If outside marker-light sockets are corroded,
clean and coat surface with a thin layer of sil-
icone dielectric grease.
2. Check the terminals for proper connections.
3. Rewire to the fixture if necessary, using
proper gauge wire.
4. If voltage is okay at connections but lower at
the socket, replace the fixture.
CAUTION: User maintenance on fluorescent fixtures is lim-
ited to changing tubes and ballasts. The circuit board and the
internal inverter require factory service.
Wiring a Tow Vehicle
In order to operate the marker/taillights, brake lights,
electric brakes, and back-up lights, a tow vehicle must
be wired so that the trailer plug can be temporarily
connected when towing. A charge line must also be
routed to the plug receptacle so that the tow-vehicle
alternator can charge the trailer batteries. Most light-
ing and brake actuation failures are attributable to
faulty wiring or wiring that has become shorted, cor-
roded, or disconnected (Figure 1.34).
Installing a Charge Line
To prevent voltage drop (restriction of current flow),
an 8-gauge charge-line wire should be used. Proper
connections will insure that the trailer battery or bat-
■TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE I N C A N D E S C E N T
Problem Possible Cause
Fails to light Burned-out bulb
No power
Corroded bulb connections
Low light Improper voltage
Fogged lens
Bad fixture socket
teries will receive a good charge.
To install the charge line, follow these steps:
1. Route an 8-gauge automotive, stranded cop-
per wire from the tow vehicle's engine com-
partment to the rear bumper. Route the wire
so that it cannot be chafed by the chassis or
other sharp edges found under a vehicle. En-
case in flexible conduit for maximum protec-
tion. Secure with black (ultraviolet-protected)
tie wraps so the wire does not sag at any
point. Make sure the wire is away from
sources of extreme heat such as the exhaust
Figure 1.34 The tow vehicle must be wired so the
marker lights, turn signals, brake lights, and electric
brakes can operate and charge batteries in the trailer.
L I G H T I N G F I X T U R E
Correction
Replace bulb
Test voltage and restore power
Check and charge battery
Clean with crocus cloth and reinstall
Check and charge battery
Replace fixture lens
Replace fixture

system.
2. Connect the wire lead in the engine compart-
ment to one side of a 50-ampere circuit
breaker that has been mounted either on the
fender well or engine fire wall. Use a good-
quality ring terminal.
3. Connect another length of 8-gauge wire to
the other side of the 50-ampere circuit
breaker and connect the other end to the bat-
tery terminal on the alternator. The charge-
line wire may also be attached to the positive
terminal of the starting battery.
Wiring Brake Lights, Marker/Taillights,
and Back-up Lights
For brake lights, marker lights, taillights, and back-up
lights, follow these steps:
1. Locate the wiring harness in the vicinity of
the tow vehicle's taillights.
2. Using a 12-volt test light or a multimeter,
turn on taillights and left and right turn sig-
nals, one at a time, and probe the wires in the
harness until the light indicates the presence
of current. The back-up-light wire must also
be located if trailer is so equipped. Probing
can be avoided if you have a service manual
that identifies the wiring code.
3. Connect a length of 16-gauge automotive
■TROUBLESHOOTING
THE F L U O R E S C E N T L I G H T I N G
Problem Possible Cause
Fails to light Reversed polarity
Bad tubes
Tube ends turning black Frequent on/offs
Low voltage
Bad tubes
Frequent ballast failure Failure to replace bad tubes
Low voltage
High transient voltages (spikes)
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.29
wire to each of the wires of the taillight, right
and left turn signals, and back-up light using
quick connectors.
NOTE: Quick connectors will cause erratic operation if not
used properly. A good way to prevent a quick connector from
collecting moisture and corrosion is to coat the connector with
RTV silicone sealant after it has been locked into place on the
wire. If possible make your wiring additions the same color as
the original wiring in the vehicle.
There are specially designed wiring kits on the
market (Figure 1.35) that allow connection of the
taillight, right, and left turn signals and back-up light
without using quick connectors or cutting the orig-
inal wires. To use, simply disconnect the specified
multipin terminal and insert the adaptor with the
wire leads.
Figure 1.35 Quick connect kits provide a conven-
ient method for wiring a tow vehicle.
■
F I X T U R E
Correction
Rewire with black wire to positive,
white to negative
Replace tubes
Limit on/offs
Check and recharge battery
Check connections
Replace tube
Replace ballast and tubes
Check and recharge battery
Check connections
Check power converter
1.30 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Grounding Wires
To provide a good ground, attach one end of a length
of 8-gauge automotive wire to a clean portion of the
chassis in the proximity of the receptacle. This should
be accomplished using at least a 1/4 inch bolt and cor-
responding ring terminal. Sheet-metal screws or
smaller bolts attached to the receptacle bracket are
not adequate sources of a good ground.
NOTE Never use the hitch ball as the only ground. This will cause
erratic operation of the lights.
The Trailer-Plug Receptacle
Most trailers use a 7-way Bargman or Poliak flat pin
plug and receptacle (Figure 1.36). Trailers equipped
with Dometic 3-Way Automatic Energy Selector re-
frigerators require a 9-way version of the same type
of receptacle (Figure 1.37). Receptacles should be
mounted below the rear bumper, on the left side of
the hitch receiver. Mounting the receptacles in such
locations is standard in the RV industry, but makes
them highly susceptible to moisture, dirt, and cor-
rosion. If the wire attachments are connected prop-
erly, they should not work loose or break off. A
coating of RTV silicone to the very back portion of
the receptacle housing helps prevent moisture and
dirt from entering the connections, greatly improv-
ing durability of the receptacle. Sealed receptacles
Figure 1.36 Seven-way wiring
with pigtails are also available at RV supply stores.
CAUTION: Do not apply the silicone too deeply into the receptacle.
If the silicone coats the wire connections inside the plug, shorting may
occur under certain conditions.
■ MONITOR PANEL SYSTEMS ■
Monitor panel systems are commonly used to mon-
itor freshwater and holding tank levels, battery charge
and, in many cases, the LP-gas level. The hot water
heater and water pump switches may also be included
with some panels.
Monitor panel systems offer the RV user a con-
venient method for determining status of the above
systems at a single source. Monitor systems are com-
monly located in a wall mount or as part of the range
hood. Without regard to the brand of RV you may
own, all monitor systems have the same basic pur-
pose and function.
Monitor systems are comprised of the monitor
panel, the wiring harness, tank resistor harness, sen-
sors and probes.
The monitor panel contains the printed circuit
board, indicator lights and switches. The tank-level
display will show ether 1/4 or 1/3 increments of tank
capacity. There are no serviceable parts in the panel.
If the monitor is a two-wire type, the wiring har-
ness will go to the tank area and one wire will con-
nect to a resistor for each tank. Other wires will go
Figure 1.37 Nine-way wiring

to the battery area and, if so equipped, the propane
tank/cylinders.
The freshwater/holding tank resistor harness com-
bines encapsulated electronic components; the re-
sistor harness is not serviceable and must be replaced
if it fails.
Holding tank sensors are located in the sidewalls
of the holding tanks. The sensors may be permanent
or removable. The relative location of these sensors
will vary with the shape of the tank.
The freshwater probe is a specially designed for
use with potable water. It usually consists of various
lengths of stainless steel wire, which are suspended
through a threaded fitting from the top of the fresh-
water tank.
Twelve-volt DC readings come directly from the
battery or the filtered side of the AC/DC power con-
verter. Line noise present on the unfiltered side of
the converter will cause the monitor panel to read
erratically.
A single momentary test switch is pushed to dis-
play all the tank levels, battery level and LP-gas (if
included).
There are four parts to consider when testing a
two-wire system: the monitor panel assembly, wiring
harness, tank resistor harness and encapsulated elec-
tronic components, and the holding tank probes.
In many cases, a maltunction of one of the above
components will be reflected in another part of the
system.
Before troubleshooting the monitor panel you need
to check the following:
1. You have a wiring diagram for your system.
2. The 12-volt DC power is connected to the bat-
tery or filtered side of the converter.
3. There is a good chassis ground.
4. The monitor panel itself is free from damage—
no broken wires or loose components.
5. The wiring harness is connected and free from
damage.
6. The tank resistor harnesses are connected and
free from damage.
7. The tank level sensors and fresh water probes
are free from damage.
The most common problems are:
1. Inaccurate holding tank level reading.
2. Some or all the tank level lights not coming on.
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.31
3. Some or all the tank level lights staying on.
4. LP-gas levels not reading properly.
Tank level accuracy
The accuracy of two-wire holding tank monitoring
systems is greatly affected by dirty tanks, unusual
mineral content in the water, or improper holding
tank probe location. If the tank readings are higher
than the actual level of the tank, the culprit is often
scum or dirty probes. Foods and some cleaning prod-
ucts build-up on the walls of the gray-water tank,
or toilet paper hangs on the black-water tank probes
causing oversensitive readings.
The first step is to clean the tank. There are sev-
eral cleaning products on the market designed to di-
gest toilet paper and clean the tank. One method for
cleaning the black-water tank that has been shown
to work in most cases is to fill the tank about 1 /2 full
and dump in 20 pounds of cubed ice and drive the
RV for several miles. The action of the ice will usu-
ally clean the tank walls and probes. After the ice has
melted, the tank is drained.
If the monitor reads that the level is higher than
it actually is, it could be that the mineral content of
the water is abnormally low, or the tank probes are
place incorrectly. If draining the tank and flushing it
does not correct the problem you may try to move
the ground probe closer to the others. Again, this is
a measure of last resort and best left to a professional.
Monitoring systems may also use probes with its
own wire that goes back to the panel. These do not
have a resistor network at the tanks. These systems
also will position the probes so that level readings
are divided in thirds or fourths. Incorrect readings
are corrected the same as the two-wire systems above.
Because of the uncompensated direct-voltage meas-
urement method used to represent the battery charge
level on most monitor panels, they are at best a rough
estimate of the battery status. There are several me-
ters on the market that provide a true picture of bat-
tery status, some even provide a "fuel tank" picture
of current power level, usage rate and battery power
remaining. Other meters are able to provide inde-
pendent temperature-compensated readings of the
starting and house batteries. Many inverter panels
have such monitoring capabilities.
1.32 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

SeaLand TankWatch 4 adjustable rods and can be positioned as needed to

SeaLand's TankWatch 4 tank-level monitoring sys-
tem provides remote sensing three micro-float
switches (probes) which activate a four-light panel.
One of the floats is fixed at two inches from the top
of the tank and the other two floats are mounted on
fit the tank. Normally one is set to sense an empty
tank and the other set at 1/3 and 2/3 full (Figure
1.38).
The cap holding the probes is a 3-inch pipe-thread
(PFT), and is designed to screw into the top of the
tank. A universal flanged collar allows fitting the cap

Figure 1.38 SeaLand TankWatch tank level monitoring system wiring diagrams.

to standard tanks. Probes come in 22- or 45- inch
lengths and are cut to size. The center probe in the
freshwater tank is normally set at the 1/2-full level.
Black and gray tanks have the probes set at 1/4 low
level. An optional vent port can be installed in the
holding cap.
If the monitor gives inaccurate reporting of tank
levels, the cap securing the floats can be unscrewed
and the probes removed for cleaning.
The monitor panel gives four-light indication of
empty, low, mid level and full for the black, gray and
freshwater tanks. The monitor panel is sealed and
no maintenance other than checking wire connec-
tions is possible.
SeeLevel RV Gauge
The SeeLevel RV Gauge consists of two components:
the display and a sender panel that sticks to the side
of the tanks. Each sender panel is a flexible self-ad-
hesive printed circuit board, which is stuck to the
side of the holding tank. The sender panel can be cut
to a length to match the height of the tank. It auto-
matically calibrates itself so that it can be read from
0 to 100 percent, regardless of the height of the tank.
The sender scans the fluid level of the tank through
the tank wall using digital techniques programmed
into the sender's microprocessor. When the sender
transmits the fluid level information to the display,
it also sends a digital code that has a built-in error
detection, making it virtually impossible for the dis-
play to read an incorrect level. In addition to the
level, the sender also transmits information about
the tank height and signal levels. The signal levels
can be used to determine if there is a buildup of
sludge on the inside of the tank. Sludge buildup in
the tank decreases the ability of the unit to read the
proper level, so when the unit reports that it can-
not read the tank any longer, its time to clean the
tank.
The display can receive signals from three sender
panels by using the original tank monitor wiring.
Only two wires are needed from each sending unit
to the display. A single button on the panel displays
the battery voltage, the three tank levels and the LP-
gas level, if the tank/cylinder has an electrical sender.
The LED on the left side of the panel for each tank,
battery power and LP-gas, reports level status in per-
CHAPTER I Electrical Systems 1.33
centage of use when the button is pushed. Each read-
out is displayed for 2 1/2 seconds.
The wiring in the back of the display units is coded
as follows:
Red—12-volt DC power (positive). This is
also the water pump power
Black—Ground
Yellow—Power to the water pump
Green—LP-gas sender (if available)
Brown—Blackwater tank sender
Grey—Graywater tank sender
Blue—Freshwater tank sender
One pair of wires is needed for each tank sender.
Connect one sender wire to ground (the black wire),
and the other sender wire to the appropriate wire on
the display in accordance with the chart above. If the
display does not have the optional pump switch
installed, or the LP-gas sender is not used, then the
yellow and green wires should be taped off.
Calibrating the LP-gas sender First, fill the LP-gas
tank/cylinder. Connect the wires from the LP-gas
sending unit to the display. With all the wires con-
nected, press the green button on the display unit
and release it. The display will power up and cycle
through the battery voltage and tank levels. When
the LP-gas level is displayed, press the green button
again and hold it down until the message of "dlA"
shows in the display window, then release the but-
ton. The display will start cycling the sender diag-
nostics. After the freshwater sender diagnostics have
been completed, the LP-gas LED will light up on he
left side of the display and the level will be contin-
uously displayed in the window. Turn the adjustment
knob at the back of the display until the unit reads
100, meaning full tank/cylinder. Press the green but-
ton again to end the diagnostics and return the unit
to normal mode.
The black, gray and freshwater tank senders are
all self-calibrating and require no user involvement.
■ INTELLITEC 50-AMP SMART ENERGY
MANAGEMENT SYSTEM, MODEL 900 ■
The 50-amp Smart Energy Management System
(EMS), consists of two elements: the wall mounted
display panel and the distribution/circuit beaker
panel. It automatically senses the available current
when the RV is hooked up to power or when the AC
1.34 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
I N T E L L I T E C 5 0 - A M P S M A R T E N E R G Y M A N A G E M E N T S Y S T E M , M O D E L 9 0 0

No 120-volt AC appliances are working.
120 volts AC available at non-controlled
appliances and receptacles. The controlled
appliances do not operate.
Some controlled appliances tarn on,
others do not.
Branch circuit breaker trips when power
is applied
Air-conditioner doesn't work.
Incoming power source
Change-over relay, if one is mounted.
12-volt DC power to the EMS module
120-volt AC circuit breakers in the EMS
distribution panel
Appliance may be shed. Wiring to and from
the EMS control module.
Shorted wiring.
Check thermostat wiring and settings.
Check the air conditioner.
Make sure the shore power cord is
plugged into the outlet.
Check that circuit breaker at the shore
power outlet is on.
Check that the 50-amp main circuit break-
ers in the EMS distribution panel are on.
Use a multimeter or circuit checker to veri-
fy that the 30-amp shore power outlet has
120 volts AC.
Measure the voltage at the incoming side
of the main 50-amp breaker. If voltage is
not the some as the incoming line, replace
the change-over relay.
Check the 12-volt DC, 3-amp fuse on the
EMS control module
Reset circuit breakers if necessary.
Check for presence of voltage at the
branch circuit breaker.
Check for presence of voltage at the EMS
terminals.
Check wire from the EMS control module
to the neutral bar.
Check wiring from circuit breakers to EMS
control module.
Check wiring from EMS control module to
the controlled appliance.
Check for power at associated EMS relay
terminal.
Check wiring with multimeter
Check wiring with a multimeter.
Check air-conditioner operation.

Shedding order is incorrect. Jumper sethngs/relay wiring Check jumper settings per the tables.
Check relay wiring per the tables.

generator is tunning. If the shore power provides 50-
amp service, all circuits in the RV are supplied. If only
30-amp power is only available, the operation of six
possible loads is cycled by priority (preset or owner
adjusted). The primary use is to cycle the front and
rear air-conditloners when 30-amp power is provided.
There are six powered relays for loads inside the
EMS distribution panel (See Typical Wiring Diagram,
Figure 1.40). Relays one through four are designed
for heavy 120-volt AC loads. Relays five and six are
for low voltage switching loads that control comfort
systems like the air-conditioners and furnace(s).
 CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.35

Figure 1.39 Intellitec 50-amp EMS Control Module - low voltage connection

Figure 1.40 Intellitec 50-amp Smart Energy Management System typical wiring diagram
1.36 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
The EMS panel is turned on when it senses power
at its input and lights up the LED corresponding to
the source and amount of power coming into the RV.
Initially the EMS turns on all loads at one-second
intervals and the total load is monitored. If the to-
tal load exceeds the service limit of the RV, the EMS
will turn off the first load in the shedding table, and
continue with the next load until it determines that
the service limit of the RV has been reached or all six
loads have been shed. As current becomes available,
the EMS turns on the first priority on the shed table
and will continue to turn on the next priority loads
until the load limit has been reached. There will be
a two-minute minimum delay period after a load is
shed until the load will be turned back on. This pre-
vents air-conditioners from switching on when the
compressor has a full head of pressure.
The EMS control module has three jumpers on
the board that determine the order of shedding of
the loads (Figure 1.39). These jumpers are numbered
JP2, JP3 and JP4. An additional jumper, JP1 is re-
served to configure the control to differentiate
whether a gas or diesel-powered AC generator is in-
stalled. If JP1 is installed, the control will be con-
■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
I N T E L L I T E C E L E C T R O N I C
Problem Possible Cause
Green ON indicator does not illuminate in Power connector and/or fuse.
the thermostat in any functional position.
IPX SIG and IPX GND connections to the
thermostat. If they are OK:
figured to control loads based on the 45-amp cur-
rent rating for a gas-powered AC generator. Removal
of JP1 expects 60 amps from a diesel AC generator.
Jumpers are installed at the factory, however the
owner may change the shedding list as needed, us-
ing the worksheets that were provided with the sys-
tem.
■ INTELLITEC ELECTRONIC CLIMATE CONTROL ■
The Intellitec climate Control system is an energy
management system that allows control over two air-
conditioners and the heating system from a single
30-amp service. It shuts off the air-conditioners where
necessary to prevent the RVs load exceeding 30 amps.
For example, if you are running two air-condition-
ers and then switch on the microwave, the control
system will turn off, or "shed" the load from one of
the air-conditioners until the microwave has cycled
off. When the controller senses that adequate cur-
rent is available, it will turn on the air-conditioner
and turn off the Shed light on the thermostat.
The user can select one or both air-conditioners
C L I M A T E C O N T R O L
Correction
Slide the test switch on the control module
towards J2. The front air-conditioner com-
pressor and high fan should turn on. If
not, make sure that the power connector
(PC1A) is plugged into J1 on the control
module. Check that the keying of the con-
nectors is correct.
Check the 5-amp fuse in the distribution
panel tor the control module power.
Check for 12-volt DC power at pin 4 of J1
on the control module and ground at pin 6.
Measure the DC voltage between the IPX
SIG and IPX GND lugs and measure the
voltage between pins 7 and 8 of J1 on the
control module. The voltage should read
greater than 4 volts and be the same at
both locations. If the voltage is OK at both
locations, replace the thermostat. It not,
check the wiring and/or replace the control.

■ T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G
I N T E L L I T E C E L E C T R O N I C
Problem
ON indicator is illuminated, but the position
of the set point temperature controls on the
thermostat have no effect on heat and cool
function on either front or rear systems. In
the heat mode the furnace stays on all the
time. In the cool modes, the fan comes on
but the air-conditioner compressor never
comes on.
ON indicator is illuminated, but the air-
conditioner compressor never comes on
in either the low cool, high cool or auto
cool mode, even when the set point control
is set to its lowest position. In the heat mode,
the furnace works propel in conjunction with
the set point control.
C L I M A T E
Possible Cause
Installation of the temperature probes.
PC2 leads and/or continuity
PC3 leads and/or continuity
PC18 connector and/or proper resistance.
CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.37
■
C O N T R O L - C o n t i n u e d
Correction
The front probe should be connected to
J1 and the rear probe to J4 on the ther-
mostat. If OK, measure the resistance of
the probe at the connector. Resistance
should be between 7,500 to 15,000 Ohms.
If not, replace the temperature probe
and/or replace the thermostat.
Slide the test switch on the control mod-
ule toward J2. The front compressor and
high fan should turn on. If not, check that
the leads on PC2 are connected to their
corresponding function at the front air-
conditioning unit. The wire colors may or
may not match. It is likely that the com-
mon and high fan leads are reversed.
Check the continuity of the compressor
relay lead between the control module
and the front air-conditioner unit.
Slide the test switch on the control mod-
ule toward J3. the rear compressor and
high fan should turn on. If not, check that
the leads on PC3 are connected to their
corresponding function at the rear air-
conditioner unit. The wires colors may or
may not match. It is likely that the com-
mon and high fan leads are reversed.
Check the continuity of the compressor
relay lead between the control module
and the rear air-conditioner unit.
Check that the PCI 8 connector for the
current sensor is plugged into J1 pins 1
and 2, and that the 120-volt AC supply
lead to the 30-amp breaker in the distri-
bution panel passes through the hole in
the current sensor. If OK, unplug the cur-
rent sensor from the control module and
measure the resistance across the leads to
the current sensor. The resistance should
be approximately 40 ohms. If not, replace
the current sensor.
1.38 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
I N T E L L I T E C E L E C T R O N I C
Problem
On indicator is illuminated, but the
fans do not operate in low fan or
high fan modes.
On indicator is illuminated, but the furnace
does not operate in the heat mode at any
thermostat setting.
The shed indicator is on in the heat mode.
The shed indicator is on in the fan or cool
modes.
C L I M A T E C O N T R O L - C o n t i n u e d
Possible Cause Correction
Power and/or circuit breakers. Make sure that the coach is plugged
in to a live shore power outlet.
Check the 120-volt AC circuit breakers in
the distribution panel.
Slide the test switch on the control module
toward J2. The front compressor and high
fan should turn on. If OK, replace the con-
trol module. If not, check wiring between
PC2 and the front air-conditioner unit.
Wiring Slide the test switch on the control module
toward J3. the rear compressor and high
fan should turn on. If OK, replace the con-
trol module. If not, check wiring between
PC3 and the rear air-conditioner unit
Fuse or circuit breaker. Control module. Check the fuse or circuit breaker feeding
the furnace.
Move the set point control on the thermo-
stat to the highest and to the lowest tem-
perature settings. Somewhere in between
these settings an audible click should be
heard from the relay in the control mod-
ule. If not, replace the control module.
Wiring. Disconnect plug PC4 from the control mod-
ule. Placing a shorting jumper wire
between PC4 pins 1 and 2 should cause
the front furnace to come on. Placing a
shorting jumper wire between PC4 pins 4
and 5 should cause the rear furnace to
come on (if installed). If not, check the
wiring between PC4 and the furnace.
Thermostat This occurs normally within 20 seconds of
system power-up. If the shed indicator
stays on and a test of the rest of the sys-
tem functions checks OK, replace the ther-
mostat.
Control module Current draw is higher than 30 amps.
Remove 120-volt AC appliance loads from
the line by turning off all of the breakers
in the distribution panel; leave on the 30-
amp main and air-conditioner breakers. If
the shed indicator still stays on, replace
the control module.
 CHAPTER 1 Electrical Systems 1.39

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
I N T E L L I T E C E L E C T R O N I C C L I M A T E C O N T R O L - C o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

The on and shed indicators flash alternately
in any of the cool modes.
Power. Control module.
This occurs normally within a two minute
period after the following situations: the
shore power is plugged in, the AC genera-
tor is started and the shore power is not
plugged in, the 12-volt DC power to the
control module is first applied.

The control module has shed an air-condi-

tioner compressor because the line current
has exceeded 30 amps. If the indicators
continue to flash after the two-minute
period, replace the control module.
The ON indicator is illuminated, air- Short to ground. One or more of the wires to the air-
conditioners won't function properly, conditioners are shorted to ground.
the short indicator LED on the control
module is on. Unplug either air-conditioner connector
(J2 or J3), from the control module, short
indicator should goes out. The other air-
conditioner should operate normally.
Check individual wires of the suspect con-
nector for shorts to ground.
Repair the shorted wires.

to operate, and the temperature in ether the front or

rear control zones of the RV. Sensors in the front and
rear of the RV detect when the temperature in ether
zone raises more then two degrees from the set point;
the control turns on the compressor to cool that area.
When the temperature has dropped back to the set
point, the controller turns off the compressor and
only the fan runs.
The system has four major parts: the thermostat,
the control module (Figure 1.41), the current sensor
and the temperature probes.
The thermostat is the control point for the user.
It measures ambient temperatures with two external
temperature probes. Based on the mode selected and
the set point temperature selected by the user, the
probes send appropriate control signals to the con-
trol module via a two-wire multiplexed link labeled
IPX SIG and IPX GND. Figure 1.41 Irrtellitec Energy Management Climate
Control Master Controller
The control module performs the timing, se-
quencing, switching and load-shedding functions
1.40 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
for the air-conditioners, fans and compressors, and
furnace(s). The furnaces are controlled by a set of re-
lay contacts for ether one or two units. The air-con-
ditioner compressors and fans are controlled by three
relays mounted in the air-conditioner.
The current sensor is located in the 120-volt AC
breaker box. The black wire feeding the 30-amp power
to the main breaker should go through the head of
the current sensor so that it can register the current
load within the RV.
 ■ CHAPTER 2 ■

LP-GAS SYSTEMS

Propane is derived from the distillation of crude Both gases can be a liquid in a sealed container
oil into lighter products such as gasoline or from based on temperature and volume. Because they are
the heavier hydrocarbons found in natural gas wells. stored in liquid form and are petroleum products,
Liquefied petroleum gas (LP-gas) is made up of a they are referred to as liquid petroleum gas or LP-
number of hydrocarbon gases that turn into a liquid gas. Containers are constructed to hold pressure and
when under moderate pressure. Propane chemical because the gas is concentrated in liquid form, there
formula is C3H8, however, commercial propane has is an abundance of heat potential in a relatively small
trace quantities of other gases, mainly from the package (Table 2.2).
propane and butane family. Approximately 91,500 BTUs of heat are contained
Butane is another LP-gas with a chemical formula in one gallon of liquid propane. Even a small 20-
C4H10. Butane is not normally used in RVs because pound cylinder (barbecue grill size), properly filled
butane has no vapor pressure below 31 degrees F. It
might be possible to obtain butane when traveling
in Mexico or South America, because the tempera- Table 2.2 LP-Gas Information
tures in these areas allow the use of butane. Propane Propane Butane
is usable down to a temperature of minus 44 degrees
Formula C4H10
F. that makes it more usable in the climates in North Boiling Point, °F
c3h8
-44 15
America (Table 2.1). Specific Gravity of Gas
(Air= 1.00) 1.50 2.01
Specific Gravity of Liquid
(Water=1.00) 0.504 0.582
Lbs. per Gallon of Liquid at 60°F 4.20 4.81
Table 2.1 Vapor Pressures of LP-Gases BTU per Gallon of Gas at 60°F 91502 102032

Temperature Approximate Pressure (PSIG) BTU per Lb. of Gas 21548 21221
BTU per Cu. Ft. of Gas at 60°F 2488 3280
(°F) (°C) Propane Butane Cu. Ft. of Vapor (at 60°F) Gal 36.38 31.26
-40 -40 3.6 Cu. Ft. of Vapor (at 60°F) Lb. 8.66 6.51
-30 -34 8 Latent Heat of Vaporization
-20 -29 13.5 at Boiling Point BTU/Gal. 773 808
-10 -23 23.3 Combustion Data:
0 -18 28 Cu. Ft. Air Required to Burn
10 -12 37 1 Cu. Ft. Gas 23.86 31.02
20 -7 47 Flash Point, °F -156 N.A.
30 -1 58 Ignition Temperature in Air, °F 920-1120 900-1000
40 4 72 3.0 Maximum Flame
50 10 86 6.9 Temperature in Air, °F 3595 3615
60 16 102 12 Limits of Flammability
70 21 127 17 Percentage of Gas in Air Mixture
80 27 140 23 At Lower Limit - % 2.15 1.55
90 32 165 29 At Upper Limit - % 9.6 8.6
100 38 196 36 Octane Number
110 43 220 45 (ISO-Octane=1.00 Over 100 92
2.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

TIP: CALCULATING BTUs IN YOUR SYSTEM_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Use this the following formula to help calculate the capability of your LP-gas storage. However, RV appliances rarely operate continuously.
20-pound cylinder has 4.76 gallons of propane at 80 percent capacity.
20 (pounds of propane) -e- by 4.2 (weight of propane per gallon) = 4.76 gallons of propane at 80 percent).
4.76 (gallons of propane) x 91,500 (BTUs per gallon) = 435,540 BTUs (total BTUs in 4.76 gallons of propane).

to 80 percent, offers approximately 430,000 BTUs of ■ PROPANE STORAGE CONTAINERS ■

heat. This is enough to operate a 25,000 BTU/hour
furnace continuously for more than 17 hours. There are two types of containers used to store LP-
Propane looks somewhat like water (Figure 2.1), gas in RVs. American Society of Mechanical Engi-
but it boils at around minus 44 degrees F rather that
at 212 degrees F. Since the vapor from propane bums,
flammable gas is produced when the temperature is
above minus 44 degrees F. Pressure varies with tem-
perature and volume. Propane inside a closed vessel
(cylinder or tank) will have zero pressure at around
minus 44 degrees F; at O degrees F it has about 28
psi. At 100 degrees F pressure will be approximately
196 psi.
Propane vapor has a specific gravity of 1.5. When
comparing propane to air, the propane weighs 1.5 times
the weight of air. Electronic gas detectors installed in
RVs are frequently located near the floor because of
this density factor. However, studies have shown that
gas dispersion and dissipation are more largely affected
by air currents from wind, thermals, fans, etc.
LP-gas is colorless and near odorless in its natu-
ral state. A ordorant (usually ethyl mercaptan) has
been added to propane to aid in the detection of fugi-
tive gas. The odorant is sometimes described as have
a onion/garlic/rotten egg smell.
National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 1192-
9.2.3 states that if you have a leak you should:
■ Extinguish any open flames, pilot lights, and
all smoking materials.
■ Do not touch electrical switches.
■ Shut off the gas supply at the tank/cylinder
valve(s) or gas supply connection.
■ Open doors and other ventilating openings.
■ Leave the area until odor clears.
■ Have the gas system checked and leakage
source corrected before using again.
While the vapor is heavier than air, liquid propane
weighs about half the weight of water. Compare 8.33
pounds per gallon of water with 4.2 pounds for LP- Figure 2.1 Propane looks like water as shown here
gas. in controlled lab conditions.
 CHAPTER 2 LP-Gas Systems 2.3

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE L P - G A S T A N K / C Y L I N D E R

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Propane (rotten-egg) odor
Vessel will not fill
Low vessel capacity
Vessel overfills
Leaking gas
Defective stop-fill valve/OPD
Incorrect valve installation
Misadjusted stop-fill/OPD
Surging of fuel
Defective stop-fill valve/OPD
Improper filling procedure
Leak-test all connections and fittings with
soapy water; check connection tightness
with a wrench; if tightening the connection
does not solve the problem, turn off gas
until repairs are made
Have replaced by qualified technician
Install per stop-valve/OPD manufacturer's
instructions.
Have valve adjustment done by qualified
technician.
Allow fuel to stabilize and resume filling
Have replaced by qualified technician
Follow correct fill routine

Figure 2.2 Travel trailers typically use a two-cylinder LP-gas system with a two-stage automatic changeover
regulator. Motorhomes use an ASME tank and a two-stage regulator.

neers (ASME) designed tanks (Figure 2.2) are used

typically for motorhome applications. These tanks
are usually permanently mounted to the vehicle.
ASME tanks are in a horizontal configuration (Fig-
ure 2.3). They have a separate port for filling and
may have vapor and/or liquid service ports.
All propane containers are protected by pressure
relief (excess pressure) valves. These valves protect
the container in a fire environment or in the case
of an overfill.
Propane containers are intended to be free of air.
Figure 2.3 ASME tanks are used on motorhomes.
2.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■CHECKLIST ■
_________________ __________ L P - G A S T A N K S A N D C Y L I N D E R S _______________________________

■ Inspect the cylinders for rust, pits, gouges, scrapes, and dents frequently. These defects can compromise the integrity of the cylinder.
■ Inspect the bottom of the cylinder for rust and other problems associated with condensation. Moisture usually collects here. Make sure this
area is well painted.
■ Cylinders are available in vertical and horizontal configurations. Always store, transport, and fill these cylinders in their intended position.
■ Check for leaks around the valve stem (using soapy water, see page 2.6) frequently. The 0-ring seal can become defective from the cold,
dirt and/or age, causing a leak around the stem threads. If a leak occurs, you may be able to curtail the leak by opening and closing the
valve all the way. Try gently backseating the valve stem when opening—this may get you by until repairs can be made by a qualified
technician. Opening and closing of the valve a few times may help remove any dirt that may have accumulated around the 0-ring.
■ Never close the valve more than hand fight. Overtightening, even by hand, can damage the valve.
■ Cylinders are certified for only twelve years and must be recertifed by a qualified service center after that period before refilling.
■ Never cut or modify a valve guard.
■ POL plugs (Figure 2.7) must be used when transporting cylinders that have 45 pounds capacity or less (must be plugged also when not
hooked up). These caps prevent air and moisture from entering the cylinder when empty, which helps prevent internal rust and odorant
oxidation. Dust caps can be used on QCC valves.
■ Inspect the racks on the trailer A-frame (or inside a fifth-wheel storage compartment). These racks are designed to hold eight times the
filled cylinder's weight. Hold-down bars should be checked before each trip.
■ Check mounting brackets and bolts for corrosion and looseness. Loose bolts can lead to potential accidents and stress cracks in the welds.
■ Never weld anything to a tank, or attempt to repair the tank by welding.

NOTE: All frame ASME tanks and DOT cylinders that are enclosed in compartments must be clearly marked on the outside of the RV with
one-inch-high letters "LPG" indicating the location of the tank.

New containers should either be purged with propane

vapor or evacuated with a vacuum compressor be-
fore filling for the first time. This procedure should
be done by a trained technician.
Department of Transportation (DOT) designed
cylinders are used typically for travel trailers, fifth
wheel trailers, pickup campers, tent trailers and even
barbecue grills.
DOT cylinders come in various sizes with the most
common for RVs in 20-, 30- and 40-pound capaci-

Figure 2.4 Horizontal propane cylinders cannot be Figure 2.5 Vertical cylinders are usually found on
used while positioned vertically. travel trailers and fifth wheels.

Figure 2.6 Pigtail with brass POL fitting.
Figure 2.7 POL plugs must be used when trans-
porting cylinders with 45-pound or smaller capacity.
ties. DOT cylinders for RV use are vapor service only.
These cylinders come in horizontal (Figure 2.4) and
vertical (Figure 2.5) configurations.
■ DOT VALVES ■
The dominant propane container service valve con-
nection has historically been the left-hand-threaded,
bullet-nosed, brass POL (Prest-O-Lite) fitting (Fig-
ure 2.6). That fitting required the use of wrench (typ-
ically 7/8-inch) to install or remove. When cylinders
with POL valves are not connected for use, a POL plug
is required as per NFPA 58 (Figure 2.7).
The Type 1 (l-5/16-inch Acme) or Quick Closing
Coupling (QCC) (Figure 2.8) is the latest generation
connection for DOT cylinders. These connections
first showed up on barbecue grills around 1995. They
were made mandatory for RV use in the 1998 edi-
tion of NFPA 1192.
CHAPTER 2 LP-Gas Systems 2.5
Manufacturers are attempting to standardize the
color of the plastic hand nuts used on the RV-side
connection by using black for barbecue grills and
green for RVs. The difference between the two is the
sensitivity of the excess-flow valve. An excess-flow
valve is designed to close when the liquid or vapor
flowing through it exceeds the prescribed flow rate.
The Type 1 fitting screws on by hand and, by de-
sign, gas will not flow unless the connection has been
made properly. POL plugs are not required on these
valves when the cylinder is being transported. The
covers used for these valves are designed to protect
against dust only (Figure 2.9).
Use the container in the proper orientation. Never
use a vertical cylinder lying down horizontally. Ar-
rows and the word "up" stamped in the collar and/or
other labels define the proper orientation (See Fig-
ure 2.4). Improper positioning of the cylinder may
allow liquid fuel to flow into the regulator. Since the
regulator is designed for vapor predominately, not
liquid, damage to the system could occur.
Figure 2.8 Type 1 Acme fittings are now used on
all pigtails.
Figure 2.9 Covers used on valves with Type 1
fittings are for protection against dust only.
2.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ REGULATORS ■
A regulator is an instrument used to control vapor
pressure to the appliances. A manometer is used to
measure system pressure (Figure 2.10). This gauge
accurately measures very low pressure readings in
inches of water column. Never attempt to measure
pressure in a low-pressure gas appliance piping sys-
tem with a conventional gauge calibrated in pounds
Figure 2.10 Manometer shows 11 inches water
column, the correct pressure for RV use.
per square inch, because the RV system pressure is
designed to be about 11 inches WC, which would be
only 0.4 psi, a number that would hardly register, even
on a low-psi type of gauge.
A manometer is useful in performing a pressure-
drop test that would determine the integrity of the
system, as well as setting the regulator flow pressure.
Regulator-flow pressure must be checked upstream
from the appliance regulators, because the stove reg-
ulator outlet pressure is limited to 10 inches water
column. The pressure-drop test can be performed at
a stove-burner orifice by slipping the rubber tube over
the end of the orifice (Figure 2.11). NFPA 1192 states
that a pressure-drop test from the stove orifice be per-
formed at 8 inches water column plus or minus .5-
inch for a period of no less than three minutes. No
pressure drop is allowed during the three-minute test.
Although the regulator can be adjusted, a qualified
technician should do this procedure (Figure 2.12).
If a pressure-drop test indicates a leak, the location
of the leak can be found by using leak-detector so-
lution (soapy water that doesn't contain harsh chem-
icals such as ammonia). Application can be made
Figure 2.11 Pressure drop test is performed by
clipping a tube from the gauge over the stove-
burner orifice.

Figure 2.12 Dial-gauge manometer is used to
perform pressure-drop test.
Figure 2.13 LP-gas leaks should only be checked
with soap and water.
with a brush or a spray bottle; make sure the gas is
on. Bubbles grow where there is a leak (Figure 2.13).
There are electronic gas detectors, used by tech-
nicians, that are designed to locate leaks (Figure 2.14).
NFPA codes were changed in 1977 to require the
use of two-stage regulators. Older, single-stage regu-
lators can not maintain constant pressure in cold
weather due to low inlet pressures. Two-stage regu-
lators are actually two regulators in one. The first
stage reduces the pressure to about 10 to 15 psi, and
the second stage is needed to further reduce pressure
to the necessary 11 inches water column (Figure 2.15).
You should limit regulator service to about 15 years.
Dirt, vibration, road salts and other elements can de-
crease usable service life. Faulty regulators can be
CHAPTER 2 LP-Gas Systems 2.7
Figure 2.14 Electronic gas detectors may be used
by technicians to find LP-gas leaks.
Figure 2.15 Two-stage regulators are designed to
reduce LP-gas pressure to 11 inches water column.
dangerous; they are not repairable.
The regulator vent (Figure 2.16) must be free of
obstructions and be pointed vertically down within
45 degrees. A clogged vent could be a safety hazard.
Regulators should be located in a compartment that
will shield the vent from wheel spray. Covers are de-
signed for regulators not housed in compartments
and, by code, must be used (Figure 2.17).
Another problem can arise when water contami-
nates the propane and causes the regulator to freeze
from the inside (Figure 2.18). If this happens, the
flow of propane will be restricted or stop. A test for
2.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 2.16 Regulator vent must be kept free of

obstructions.

Figure 2.18 Regulator freeze-up during extremely

cold temperatures can prevent LP-gas from flowing.

an ice-plugged regulator is to heat the regulator with

a hot water bottle or similar method. Once the reg-
ulator is warmed well above freezing, the ice will
melt and the gas flow will be restored.
If this condition is confirmed, a qualified tech-
nician can inject appropriate quantities of anhydrous
methyl alcohol. Industry custom calls for only about
a pint of anhydrous methyl alcohol for every 100 gal-
Figure 2.17 Covers over ASME tank regulators lons of LP-gas
must be used.

■ T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE R E G U L A T O R

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Regulator freeze-up Overfilled tank Seek qualified help to bleed excessive

pressure from tank
Clogged regulator vent Clean vent opening
Water in tank LP-gas facilities can inject alcohol to
absorb moisture
Pilot lights fail Low regulator pressure Check regulator output pressure, set to
11 inches water-column pressure
Low LP-gas level Replenish supply
Clogged regulator vent Clean vent opening
Defective thermocouple Install new thermocouple
Regulator vent clogs Road dirt and debris Install shield to protect regulator
from debris
 CHAPTER 2 LP-Gas Systems 2.9

serve cylinder becomes the service cylinder. It is very

Figure 2.19 Black lever Is used to connect service
to LP-gas cylinders.
■ AUTOMATIC CHANGEOVER REGULATOR ■
The changeover feature allows users the benefit of un-
interrupted fuel flow to the LP-gas system. When the
service cylinder empties, the regulator will start draw-
ing from the reserve cylinder. The full-empty indica-
tor color changes from green to red indicating that the
service cylinder is empty and the system is drawing
from the reserve (or second) cylinder. Prior to dis-
connecting the service cylinder, rotate the black lever
all the way toward the reserve cylinder (Figure 2.19).
The hill-empty indicator will turn green and the re-
important to turn the lever to the new service cylin-
der before removing the empty cylinder for refilling,
since gas may leak out the disconnected pigtail.
To use an automatic changeover regulator as a leak
detector, follow these procedures:
1. Shut off both cylinder valves.
2. Make sure all burners and pilots are off.
3. Momentarily turn on the in-use cylinder valve
as indicated by the regulator selector. The red indi-
cator should switch to green.
4. Have an assistant turn on a stove burner until
the red indicator starts to appear in the sight glass.
5. Observe the full-empty indicator for three min-
utes. If the red/green position does not change, the
system is leak free.
■ FILLING AND OVERFILLING LP GAS CONTAINERS ■
NFPA 58 requires that dispenser operators must have
documented training to fill any container. Even so,
some propane dispenser operators have made mis-
takes by filling containers beyond the 80-percent
level. The 20 percent vapor space (outage) is for the
expansion of liquid propane in a temperature-rise
scenario. Liquid propane expands approximately 1
1/2 percent for every 10 degrees F of temperature rise.
Overfilled containers will vent propane through
the relief valve under certain conditions that can pose
a fire/explosion hazard.

■ CHECKLIST ■
________________ FILLING, REMOVING, OR INSTALLING AN LP-GAS CYLINDER _________

■ Close valves on appliances and pilot burners.

■ Make sure POL fitting is tight between the regulator and the cylinder/tank valve. This nut has a left-hand thread. Be sure to use a properly
fitting wrench to prevent deforming the brass fitting (Figure 2.6). Slowly open the cylinder valve.
■ Check for leaks with a soapy-water solution at fittings and connections (Figure 2.13). Never use soap with harsh chemicals or ammonia;
these chemicals can corrode the lines and brass fittings.
■ Replace the regulator immediately if bubbles indicate leaks at the diaphragm seal or vents.
■ Retest for leaks.
■ Relight the pilots and check them for proper flame (light blue—no yellow).
■ Light the main burners to check for proper flame color.
■ Check to see that the regulator vent is clear and free of debris.
■ Close the cylinder/tank valve when the appliances will not be used.
■ Never store cylinders indoors in an unvented enclosed area or near an open flame or source of sparks.

NOTE: Regulators that are not in enclosed compartments must have covers.
2.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 2.20 Liquid level indicator (bleeder) should
also be used when filling cylinder even if equipped
with OPD.
NFPA 58 states that propane containers can be
filled by two methods; weight and volume. Filling
by volume involves opening the fixed-maximum-liq-
uid-level gauge, commonly called the bleeder, spit-
ter, outage or 80 percent valve (Figure 2.20). The
valve opens a small passageway to an internal tube
that extends into the container's 80-percent level.
When the liquid propane is below this dip tube, the
vapor propane emission will look like air. When liq-
uid propane reaches the bottom of the dip tube, a
white mist will be visible. Cylinders should not be
filled beyond this point. Cylinders that have been
filled beyond this point can be vented until the white
mist turns to an intermittent white mist/vapor.
While ASME tanks cannot be filled by weight be-
cause of their size and attachment to the vehicle,
DOT cylinders can be filled by weight using scales.
A stamping on the cylinder guard shows water ca-
pacity in pounds and can be used as a guide for fill-
ing (Figure 2.21). For example, the stamping on a
20-pound cylinders reads "WC 47.7." If you move
the decimal point one place to the left, you get the
propane capacity in gallons for this particular cylin-
der at 80 percent. There are about 4.7 gallons in a
TIP: DETERMINING PROPANE LEVEL BY WEIGHT
Use a scale to determine the amount of propane in a cylinder by
subtracting the container weight from the total weight.
Figure 2.21 Cylinder guard stamping
20-pound cylinder, about 7.2 gallons in a 30-pound
cylinder, and approximately 9.2 gallons in a 40-
pound cylinder at 80 percent.
Using the weight method of filling, weigh the
cylinder and subtract the tare weight (stamped on
the guard); divide that number by 4.2 (weight in
pounds per gallon of propane).
If the cylinder is overfilled, take it to an open area
where there are no flames or sources of ignition.
Open the liquid-level gauge (outage valve); one-half
to one turn is all that is usually needed. Continue
bleeding until the white mist turns clear. Make sure
you are at least 25 feet from a flame or source of ig-
nition. NFPA 58 requires that any fuel transfer be
at least 25 feet from a flame or source of ignition.
■ CONTAINER INSPECTION AND RECERTIFICATION ■
All containers must be inspected periodically and
prior to filling. Containers must not have leaks, ex-
cessive rust, dings, dents or gouges, and the manu-
facturing data on the valve guard on DOT cylinders
or the plate on ASME tanks must be legible. Paint
should be in good shape and a light reflective color.
The DOT and NFPA require certain warning labels
and markings.
DOT cylinders are required to be re-qualified by
trained personnel at 12 years from the date of manu-
facture, and usually at intervals of five years thereafter.
 CHAPTER 2 LP-Gas Systems 2.11

Figure 2.23 Cylinders equipped with OPDs can

Figure 2.22 ASME tanks can only be filled to 80 only be filled to 80 percent.
percent with the use of stop-fill valves.

■ 0PD/ST0P-FILL VALVES ■

Around 1983, ASME tanks were equipped with stop-

fill valves that limited maximum filling to 80 per-
cent (Figure 2.22). DOT cylinders, 4-40 pounds,
fabricated after September 30, 1998 are equipped
with overfilling prevention devices (OPDs). These
OPDs limit the maximum filling to 80 percent us-
ing the same principle as the stop-fill valves. These Figure 2.24 LP-gas detectors are required in new
devices are not to be used as the primary means of RVs built after 1996.
limiting the fill. Attendants must continue to fill pri-
marily by weight or volume.
As of April 1, 2002 all cylinders (4-40 pounds)
gas flow when a leak is detected.
must be equipped with OPDs, with the exception of
NOTE: If your appliances mysteriously fail to operate,
horizontal cylinders manufactured prior to Septem-
check the solenoid valve first.
ber 30, 1998 (Figure 2.23).
Low voltage or cross sensitivity to other chemicals
like hair spray can cause a false alarm or shut off.
There are a number of methods for checking the
■ LP-GAS DETECTORS ■
operation of a gas detector; it's important to follow
LP-gas leaks are serious business. LP-gas detectors the individual manufacturer's instructions.
are required in new RVs as of 1996, but were used One manufacturer will instruct you test the de-
in many RVs prior to that date (Figure 2.24). The de- tector by emitting gas from a butane lighter (with no
tector is designed to "sniff" constantly for the pres- flame) in close proximity to the sensor to activate
ence of gas. When gas is detected, it sounds an alarm, the alarm, while another manufacturer will instruct
and in many cases, sends a signal to an electric so- you not to test the detector with butane as it may
lenoid shut-off valve installed downstream of the damage the sensor. Read the manufacturer's in-
regulator. This valve will immediately shut off the structions carefully.
2.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
 ■ CHAPTER 3 ■
WATER SYSTEMS
The freshwater system probably does more to
make an RV like a home than any other feature.
You'd think a system that provides so much conve-
nience would be difficult to maintain and repair, but
it's not. Many people have a mental block when it
comes to plumbing, but the RV's water system can be
maintained and repaired easily with a little preplan-
ning and a few basic tools.
An RV's water system consists of a metal or plastic
water-storage tank, a connection for city water, cop-
per tubing or plastic water lines, a 12-volt DC-pow-
ered demand water pump or 12-volt DC air
compressor, an accumulator tank, a strainer system,
check valves, a water-filter system, and faucets to con-
trol water flow (Figure 3.1). A particular system may
contain all or just a few of these components.
Basically there are two types of water systems. The
most common is the demand system, where water is
available "on demand" by either a hand vacuum
pump pulling the liquid from a storage tank or by
opening a faucet and allowing an electric pump to
push water to the fixture. The other type of system,
no longer popular with manufacturers, operates by
air pressure. In this type of system, an air compressor
pressurizes a tank filled with water, forcing water
through the system to each valve or faucet.
A hand-pump system uses a handle that is physi-
cally pumped back and forth until water is drawn to
the fixture. This type of system is common in tent
trailers and small campers. An electric demand pump
has a telltale whirring-sound pump motor that comes
on almost instandy when a faucet is opened. The air-
compressor system, on the other hand, will delay sev-
eral seconds, or if a small amount of water is drawn,
several minutes, before the compressor can be heard.
■ WATER TANKS ■
Most RVs utilize polyethylene water tanks. They are
lightweight, durable, impact-resistant, sanitary, and
easily manufactured in a variety of shapes and sizes.
RVs with air-pressure systems will have a metal
tank of stainless-steel or aluminum. Some of the
high-line motorhomes feature stainless-steel tanks
in concert with a demand system. The average RV
water tank capacity is about 40 gallons. This trans-
lates to about 340 pounds of liquid weight that the
tank must contain. When 340 pounds of water are
sloshed around due to road movement, the forces
that the tank must contend with are considerable.
Even so, water tanks seldom require repair.
Maintenance consists of keeping the tank fresh by
sanitizing with chlorine and making sure nothing is
stored near the water tank that could puncture it. It's
also important to drain the water system during cold-
weather storage or make sure the tank area is insu-
lated from the cold when using the rig in winter.
Tank Removal
The most difficult service procedure involving water
tanks is the removal of the tank itself. Although many
repairs can be made to tanks while they are in the
RV, it is best to remove the tank for leak repair.
Repairing the Freshwater Tank
Cracks or holes may appear in the freshwater tank if
severe impact or abrasion is encountered. Overfill-
ing the tank may also create stresses that may lead
3.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 3.1 A typical RV water system

to a rupture (and damage to the surrounding com-

partment). After many miles of travel, the constant
vibration may cause a crack to appear. Plastic tanks
can be repaired with a special epoxy resin and fiber-
glass patch (Figure 3.2) following these steps:

1. Drain the tanks so the area around the crack

is dry. If the crack is in an inaccessible area,
the tanks must be removed.
2. A small hole (1/8-inch diameter) should be
drilled at each end of the crack. This prevents
the crack from propagating from under the
patch you will apply.
3. Sand the area around the crack until the tank Figure 3.2 Plastic tanks can be repaired using
surface is roughed up to allow a good adhe- special kits.
 CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.3

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE WATER TANK

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Tank will not fill Vent hose dogged Clear vent hose
Tank leaks Loose hose or tubing Check and tighten
Crack in tank Repair or replace tank
Freeze damage Repair or replace tank
Odor or bad taste Bacteria Sanitize water system

sive bond.
4. Cut a fiberglass patch about 1 to 2 inches
larger than the crack in all directions.
5. Mix the epoxy resin with its catalyst. After the
catalyst is added, there are only about fifteen
minutes of working time before the resin
"sets up" and starts to harden.
6. With a small brush, dab a layer of resin over
the area that was rough-sanded. Then lay the
fiberglass-cloth patch over the resin. Pat the
patch with the brush until all the fiberglass is
soaked with resin.
7. Add more resin to the patch area until it takes
on a glossy appearance and the cloth fibers Figure 3.3 Polyethylene tanks can be repaired with
are covered. a special plastic welding rod and heat gun.
8. The resin will become tacky in about fifteen
to twenty minutes and will fully harden in a be removed from the RV before welding. Tanks that
few hours. It's best to wait twenty-four hours have been damaged by freezing can be repaired if the
before filling the tank with water and inspect- damage is not too severe. Permanent bulges, long
ing for leaks. cracks, or split tank seams warrant tank replacement.
NOTE: These kits work best when on cracks up to 5 inches Although temporary repairs may be made, this type
and holes 1 inch in diameter. of damage often will cause the tank to fail in a rela-
tively short period of time. If you need to replace a
Some plastics—especially larger repairs—can be metal tank, consider making the conversion to a de-
welded using a hot-gas procedure and special plas- mand system using a polyethylene tank.
tic welding rod. This is a specialized method that is
used most often in plastic-tank manufacture. Many
RV repair shops are equipped to perform this type Vent Hose Inspection and Repair
of repair (Figure 3.3).
Metal tanks, stainless steel, or aluminum should A water tank will fill slowly (or not at all) if the vent
not be repaired with the fiberglass/epoxy method. hose is clogged. The vent hose is usually made of a
The best way is by welding. Since stainless steel and vinyl plastic section that leads from a fitting on the
aluminum are difficult to weld, they are best repaired top of the tank to a fitting that terminates at the out-
by a professional with gas-tungsten-arc (sometimes side water-fill door (Figure 3.4). The usual prob-
known as Heliarc or TIG) welding. The tank should lem is that the hose becomes bent and kinked,
3.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 3.4 Opening the water-fill vent plug facili-
tates the job of adding water.
making it impossible for air to pass. The problem
can be remedied by either shortening the hose to re-
move the kink or by replacing the hose if it is too
short. In both cases, the hose should make a smooth
transition from the top of the tank to the outside fill
port. It is also important not to store objects on the
water tank that could restrict the vent hose's ability
to allow air to flow.
Leaking Hose Connections and Fittings
Since the water in the tank and the associated plumb-
ing on the suction side of the pump cannot be pres-
sure tested (except for air-pressure systems), leaks
can be deceptive. Small leaks may go unnoticed un-
til water damage has been done to the RV. A simple
method for checking for small leaks in a demand sys-
tem is to pressurize the lines (allowing the pump
to cycle off) and allowing the rig to stand without
using the water. If the pump blips, there's most likely
a small leak in the system.
Hose connections to the water tank can be the
cause of a leak (Figure 3.5). Depending on the situ-
ation and type of fitting, repairs can usually be per-
formed while the tank is in the RV. If fittings are
damaged by freezing, the tank may have to be re-
moved for fitting replacement. If there is inadequate
room near the tank to position a wrench to rotate a
fitting, the entire tank has to be removed.
Check hoses and fitting connections for excessive
side pressure. If a hose is routed around a sharp bend
or abrupt turn, the pressure may be enough to de-
Figure 3.5 The hose connection from the water fill
to the tank should be checked for leaks or kinking.
fleet the hose fitting and cause a leak. Hoses should
be rerouted so that pressure is not applied to the fit-
tings or hose.
The most popular type of water supply pipe used
in RVs is polybutylene (PB), but in some older RVs
you may also find copper. Flexible, braided, vinyl
tubing may be used for the first 12 inches on the in-
let and outlet sides of the pump. Most rigs during
the past twenty years are equipped with the gray-col-
ored tubing, usually under the Qest nameplate.
Copper tubing uses compression-type connectors
that can be tightened if a leak appears (Figure 3.6),
or in the case of older installations, the fittings may
have been soldered (sweat connections). The leak
may also be caused by damage to the compression
ring. The seating surface on the fitting must be clean
and free from nicks and scratches. If the sealing sur-
face is damaged, the fittings should be replaced.
Figure 3.6 Compression-type connectors on cop-
per tubing must be tightened if a leak occurs.
 CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.5

The use of flexible vinyl hose with braided rein-

forcement may be recommended by your pump man-
ufacturer. This type of hose should only be used on
the first 12 inches from the inlet and outlet sides of
the pump. Barbed fittings are used at the pump, and
the hose is secured with a worm-gear-type hose clamp;
do not overtighten or allow the clamp to cut into the
hose material. The other ends of the hoses are fit-
ted with barbed fittings that terminate with the proper
configuration for hookup to the PB tubing or other
accessories like an accumulator tank. If a leak is de-
tected here, the best solution is to cut the hose, re- Figure 3.7 Qest flared cone-and-nut fittings are
used to connect water tubing.
install over the barb fitting, and tighten the clamp.
Polybutylene (PB) is the most common water pipe
found in RVs as it can transport both hot and cold wa-
ter and is soft enough to turn some corners without
the need for additional fittings. Being a soft hose, it
can also expand to a small degree and therefore can
resist some freezing before bursting; copper, on the
other hand, is not very resistant to freezing. Burst tub-
ing is usually the reason for having to replace the lines.
The newer type of plastic tubing is clear, gray, red,
or white in color and is much more flexible. In a typ-
ical water system, this plastic tubing will be inter-
connected with two types of fittings: barb and crimp
rings or flared cone-and-nut types. Figure 3.8 Overtightening nut will result in dam-
Installing barbed fittings with crimp rings requires age.
a special tool. Manufacturers use high-quality crimp
tools that can cost more than $150. Do-it-yourselfers
who find the need to install crimp rings once in a while (Figure 3.7).
can purchase less expensive—although much slower 5. Push the end of the tubing into the fitting; slide
to use—tools. When installing a crimp ring, make sure over the nut, the ring, and the cone until se-
the tool is fully seated before releasing. Crimp rings cure, and hand tighten the nut. Do not over-
must be cut off and are not reusable. tighten (Figure 3.8).

If you need to remove and reinstall the fitting, it's

Installing Qest Flared Cone-and-Nut Type Fittings best to use a new ring and cone. It may be neces-
sary to cut back the tubing since the cone will usu-
Follow these steps in installing Qest fittings: ally be difficult to remove.

1. Make sure the tubing is cut to the proper

length. Cut the end square.
2. Install the nut over the tubing with the
threads toward the end of the tubing.
3. Slip the ring over the tubing with the flare
(or extrusion) facing away from the nut.
4. Slide the cone over the tubing with the taper
toward the end of the tubing. Make sure
1/4 inch of the tubing shows past the cone
Installing Flair-lt Cone-and-Nut Fittings
To install Flair-lt fittings follow these steps:
1. Make sure the tubing is cut to the proper
length.
2. Slide the nut over the tubing.
3. Firmly press the tubing onto the flare of the
3.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 3.9 Flair-lt cone-and-nut fittings are easy
to install
fitting—go to the end of the flare portion
(Figure 3.9).
4. Slide the nut to the threads and hand tighten.
Do not overtighten or use a wrench.
These fitting are the easiest to use and are reusable.
Keep a few unions handy; they can simplify on-the-
road repairs of broken tubing.
■ WATER SYSTEM SANITATION ■
It is not uncommon for RV owners to complain of
bad water. The first sign of a contaminated water sys-
tem is usually a bad taste, followed by strange odors
emanating from the water supply. Bacteria may have
built up in the water tank, especially if the water tank's
supply has not been used frequently and has not
been replenished with fresh, clean water on a regu-
lar basis. When a rig comes out of storage or is be-
ing used extensively on a city-water connection, the
tank and entire water system should be sanitized be-
fore use. Some of the bacterial buildup can cause se-
rious illness; don't take chances!
Here are the steps to sanitize the water tank:
1. Drain the water tank completely, then refill
halfway with clean, fresh water.
2. Mix 1/4 cup of household bleach for every
15 gallons of tank capacity in a container
with a gallon or two of clean water.
3. Pour this mixture into the water tank.
4. Top off the water tank with fresh water.
Drive the rig around the block to mix
the solution.
5. Pump water through each faucet so that all
the lines are filled with the water/bleach
mixture from the tank. Usually, running a
quart of water out each faucet is adequate.
6. The hot-water tank holds at least 6 gallons
of water. Run the hot-water faucets until this
much solution has passed to insure that the
old water has been purged from the hot-
water tank, and it is now filled with the
water/bleach solution from the water tank.
7. Let the water stand for several hours.
8. Drain the entire water system, hot-water
tank included.
9. To remove the bleach odor, mix 1/2 cup of
baking soda with a gallon of water and pour
into the freshwater tank.
10. Fill the tank completely and pump this solu-
tion through the water heater and the rest of
the water lines. This solution can sit in the
system for a few days. Driving the rig around
the block will slosh water around and thor-
oughly clean the tank.
11. Drain the entire system and refill with fresh,
clean water.
Water Filters
Water filters perform the primary function of re-
moving sediment and particles from the water, and
secondly, the task of removing odors and improving
the taste of the water. Filter systems can use throw-
away canisters (Figure 3.10) or one or two replace-
able cartridges (Figure 3.11). Filters work by screening
out impurities in the water, and over a period of time
they become clogged with sediments and mineral
particles. When the filter becomes full of these im-
purities, you will notice a reduced flow of water and
decreased water pressure; this is a clear signal to re-
place the canister or cartridge(s). Due to the wide
range of water conditions, it is impossible to estab-
lish a definitive schedule for water-filter replacement;
however, a rough interval for filter replacement would
be every three months of use.
 CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.7

Figure 3.12 If the pump connections are not tight,

air may be drawn in, allowing the pump to lose its
Figure 3.10 The water filter is discarded after its prime.
useful life is expired.

Figure 3.11 Some water filters use replaceable Figure 3.13 Arrow shows direction of water flow
cartridges. from tank to faucets.

■ WATER PUMPS ■

Water pumps seem to be the biggest cause of RV

water-system difficulties. The pump is a heavily-used
component in the water system, relying on a num-
ber of moving parts and electrical components.
There are a variety of electric pumps on the market;
make it a point to be familiar with the one installed in
your RV. Most RV pumps use some type of rubber di-
aphragm and a 12-volt DC electric motor. Some pump
manufacturers use a rotary-impeller system. The main
advantage of a diaphragm pump is that it operates
more quietly than the rotary-impeller design and will Figure 3.14 Checking the water-pump backflow
not be damaged if accidentally run dry. valve with air will determine its integrity.
3.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 3.15 Jabsco belt-drive demand water pump (exploded view)
Service and Repair
Servicing a water pump is easy with a few basic tools:
A couple of screwdrivers (Phillips and flat), a set of
small wrenches and sockets (1/4 inch through 1/2 inch),
an adjustable-end wrench that will open to 1 inch,
pliers, a pair of water-pump pliers, and a multime-
ter for checking electrical components.
If the water pump runs but fails to deliver water,
the cause is most often a restriction in the suction or
inlet side of the pump.
Testing the Suction-Water Line
To evaluate the condition of the suction-water line,
follow these steps:
1. Carefully follow the water line from the
pump inlet to the water tank. Look for any
signs of pinching or kinks in the line. If
necessary, reroute the line to avoid this
condition.
2. Check the tightness of all connections from

the water tank to the pump (Figure 3.12).
A leak here will allow air to be drawn in with
the water flow, causing the pump to lose
its prime.
If an anti-backflow valve (check valve) is installed
in the line, it may be stuck closed, shutting off wa-
ter flow to the inlet side of the pump. Remove the
check valve from the line. An arrow should indicate
the direction of water flow (Figure 3.13). Blow
through the valve in the direction of the arrow (Fig-
ure 3.14). Air should pass this way but not in the op-
posite direction. If air fails to pass through the valve,
it should be replaced.
If it is determined that water is reaching the pump
through the suction line from the water tank, the lack
of water flow is usually caused by a broken drive belt
on the Jabsco pump (Figure 3.15), a diaphragm prob-
lem, or a leak in the inlet tubing (vacuum leak). It's
also possible that the inlet tubing is kinked or re-
stricted. If the RV is equipped with a Jabsco belt-drive
pump, make sure the belt has not broken or slipped
off the pulleys. This belt is a toothed, positive drive
belt that is easily replaced. Simply slip a new belt
into position, making sure that the teeth of the belt
Figure 3.16 SHURflo demand water pump (exploded view)
CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.9
mesh with the cogs of the pulleys. If you have a
SHURtlo pump (Figure 3.16), check for debris in the
inlet/outlet valves or for swollen and/or dry valves.
Also, check the pump housing for cracks or for loose
drive-assembly screws. For both types of pumps, make
sure the diaphragm is not pinched or ruptured. A de-
fective diaphragm can cause failure to the pump, low
water volume, and intermittent cycling when all
faucets are turned off.
If water still fails to flow, check the pump's wiring
(Figure 3.17) for polarity and check voltage. If the
12-volt DC leads are reversed, the pump will run
backward, failing to pump water. Reverse the pump-
motor wires and operate the pump. If water now
pumps, permanently connect the wiring leads in this
position. If the water still fails to flow, check for low
voltage. Using a multimeter, check that the voltage
is at least 12 volts (plus/minus 10 percent), while the
pump is running (Figure 3.18).
Overhauling the Water Pump
To inspect the pump diaphragm, the pump assem-
bly should be disconnected and removed from the
3.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

RV. All pump manufacturers supply a service kit that

contains a new diaphragm, a pump-check valve, a
drive belt (if needed), and gaskets. Purchase this ser-
vice kit before you start to overhaul the pump. To
overhaul the water pump:

1. Remove electrical connections from the

pump, marking the wires for their correct
location.
2. Drain both the freshwater tank and the hot-
water tank to keep water from flowing out of
the inlet line when it is removed.
3. Remove the inlet and outlet lines from the
pump housing. Use the proper-size wrench
so that the fittings are not damaged. This pro-
Figure 3.17 Water pump will run backward if
cedure should be easy if the original installa-
12-volt DC wiring polarity is reversed.
tion included swivel barb fittings.
4. Remove the pump-housing mounting bolts
and rubber vibration pads from the mount-
ing location on the RV.
5. When the pump is free from the RV, take it to
a clean work area for disassembly.
6. All pumps have retaining screws that hold the
diaphragm cover in place. By removing these
screws, the diaphragm can be removed
(Figure 3.19). Jabsco pumps require that the
motor and jack-shaft assembly be removed
before the diaphragm screws can be reached.
SHURflo pumps have the pressure-sensing
switch located in the diaphragm cover. The
switch and the pressure spring will pop out
when the cover is removed.
7. With the diaphragm removed, inspect the
Figure 3.18 Multimeter showing low voltage at rubber for cracks and defects (Figure 3.20).
water pump. Check the small flapper-check valves for signs
of sticking or foreign objects that may pre-
vent them from seating fully (Figure 3.21). If
the pump has an internal filter screen on the
inlet side, replace the screen or clean it before
reassembly.
8. Replace the diaphragm. Reassemble the
pump and mount it back in the RV. Connect
the inlet- and outlet-water lines and the
12-volt DC wiring. If you are using swivel
barb fittings, make sure they are only hand
tightened. Overtightening can damage the
taper seal, causing leaks. Never use Teflon
Figure 3.19 SHURflo demand water pump tape or other sealing compounds on the
diaphragm is accessed after removing cover screws. threads. Sealer can cause pump failure, which

will not usually be covered by the warranty.
9. To test the pump, fill the water tank, inspect
the connections for leaks, turn on the water-
pump switch, and open a faucet. The pump
should start, prime, and pump water. Run
water from each fixture until the air is bled
from the system. The pressure switch should
automatically turn off the pump when
pressure builds.
Testing Other Water-Pump Components
A pump that fails to operate may have a defective
master control switch or simply low-battery voltage.
Make sure the control switch is rated at 15 amps or
better. To check these components, a multimeter is
needed. Follow these steps:
Figure 3.20 The water-pump diaphragm should
be inspected for cracks or defects after removal.
Figure 3.21 Debris can prevent the flapper-check
valves in the water pump from seating.
CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.11
1. Battery condition can be determined by tak-
ing a voltage reading across the positive and
negative terminals or by trying other 12-volt
DC appliances. Low voltage will prevent the
pump from operating. Voltage at the battery
should be not less than 12 volts.
2. If voltage is normal, locate the 12-volt DC
fuse that protects the water pump. See if the
fuse is intact. Using the multimeter on the
DC volts setting, check for voltage on both
sides of the fuse. If not, replace the fuse
and recheck.
3. With the pump's master control switch in the
on position, voltage should be present to one
side of the pressure-sensitive control switch.
If not, the master switch is defective or there
is a break in the wiring from the switch to
the pump.
4. If there is voltage to the switch and the pump
still will not function, the pressure switch
should be removed and tested. On Jabsco belt-
drive pumps, the pressure switch is located on
the outside of the pump housing and can be
removed without removing the pump hous-
ing. On SHURflo pumps, the pressure switch
is located under the pump-housing diaphragm
cover, which must be removed.
5. With the switch removed from the pump, the
test can be done with a multimeter (Figure
3.22). These pressure switches are normally
closed; the circuit is complete without pres-
sure. After calibrating the multimeter, touch
the leads to each side of the switch; there
Figure 3.22 The pressure switch can be checked
for condition after its removal from the water pump.
3.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE W A T E R P U M P

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Pump runs but no water flows at outlets Low water level in tank Replenish supply
Clogged water lines Locate, remove obstruction
Kink in suction line Straighten line
Air leak in suction line Repair air leak
Loose hose clamps on suction side of pump Tighten clamps
Stuck pump-check valve Repair or clean valve
Punctured diaphragm Replace diaphragm
Cracked pump housing Replace pump housing
Stuck backflow valve Replace backflow valve
Broken pump-drive belt Replace belt
Worn pump impeller Replace impeller
Pump running backward Reverse pump wiring
Plugged in-line filter Replace element or screen
Pump cycles off and on with faucets closed Water leak in plumbing Locate and repair
Leaking faucet sets Repair faucet sets
Defective toilet valve Repair valve
Internal leak in pump Install pump-repair kit
Failed pressure switch Replace pressure switch
Pump motor fails to run Blown fuse Locate and replace
Master switch off Turn on master switch
Low battery charge Charge battery
Loose wiring connection Check all connections
Poor ground Check ground connection
Defective pump motor Replace motor
Pump fails to shut off when faucet is closed Empty water tank Replenish water supply
Low voltage condition Charge batteries
Leaking faucets Repair faucets
Failed pressure switch Replace pressure switch
Excessive pump noise or vibration Restricted intake line Clear suction hose
Inadequate pump mounting Mount per manufacturer's specs
Loose mounting bolts Tighten bolts
Worn mount bushings Replace with new bushings
Failed pulsation damper Replace with new damper
Loose drive pulleys Tighten pulleys
Worn pump bearings Replace bearings
 CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.13

■TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE W A T E R P U M P , c o n t i n ue d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Inadequate water flow
Sputtering water flow
Pump will not prime
Air leak at pump suction Check suction line
Undersized suction line Replace with larger line
Kinked outlet line Straighten line
Clogged intake strainer Clean strainer
Leaking pump diaphragm Replace diaphragm
Inadequate pump wiring Rewire with larger wire
Air leak in suction line Repair leaks
Air not bled from lines Bleed air from lines
Air in water heater Bleed hot-water lines
Empty water tank Fill water tank
Air leak in suction line Repair suction line
Restricted suction line Clear obstruction
Defective pump diaphragm Replace diaphragm
Defective pump impeller Replace impeller
Broken pump-drive belt Replace drive belt
Clogged intake strainer Clean strainer

should be a zero-resistance reading on the ■ Flojet Water Pumps ■

multimeter (ohms). If not replace the
switch, reassemble the pump, and turn on
Disassembly and Reassembly
the master switch to test the pump. The mo-
tor should run until pressure is established,
To disassemble the pump for maintenance or
and then the pump should shut off.
replacement of parts, use the following steps (see Fig-
ure 3.23):
This same test procedure should be done if the pump
Disassembly
fails to shut off. The pressure switch may fail to open
1. Remove the two screws at the end of the sensor
as pressure builds. The switch will test with a
housing. Remove the cover and lift up the clip
0-ohm reading even when pressure is applied. Replace
to unplug the sensor.
the switch if it will not open with pressure applied.
2. Loosen but do not remove the four pump head
Another common cause of pump run-on is low
screws. Carefully remove the upper housing as-
battery voltage. When the battery is low, the pump
sembly.
motor cannot produce sufficient pressure to open
3. Inspect the back flow valve in the center of the
the pressure-sensing switch. This can lead to motor
pump behind the sensor for debris.
overheating and potentially permanent damage to
4. Change the four ferules sealing the screws. (2)
the motor and pump. Wiring that is too small a gauge
5. Inspect the valve flappers for debris and re-
may also cause this condition. If the voltage is not
silience. Replace if necessary.
correct, check that the wiring is at least 14 gauge;
6. Rotate the lower housing so the notch opening
wiring should be 12 gauge if the length from the
exposes the set screw that holds the bearing
power source exceeds 20 feet (up to 50 feet).
housing to the motor shaft.
3.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
7. Loosen the set screw with an 1/8-inch Allen
wrench inserted through the notch opening.
Slide the lower housing off of the motor shaft.
8. Remove the four piston screws from the cam
bearing assembly using a Phillips screwdriver
and pull the cam bearing assembly apart from
the inner pistons.
9. Test the motor by carefully connecting the red
wire from the pump to a 12-volt DC positive
(+) lead. The pump's black wire goes to ground.
The motor will run full speed and slow down
if the sensor is brought closer to the motor's
magnets.
Reassembly
1. Assemble lower housing assembly to the mo-
tor (follow steps above).
2. Diaphragm and the lower housing are assem-
bled as follows:
a. Place the four black inner pistons facing stem
■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
Problem
Failure to prime - motor operates, but no water flows
Motor fails to run
Pump fails to turn off after all fixtures are closed
Low flow or pressure
up on a flat surface, diaphragm flat side up.
Place the diaphragm over the pistons and
press them in.
b. The white outer piston must be folded to be
inserted into the lower housing, flat side up.
c. The hex stem of the inner pistons must align
with the hex holes in the outer pistons.
d. The outer pistons must be aligned with the
slots on the cam bearing assembly.
e. Drive each Phillips-head screw partially tight.
Carefully center each piston in its quadrant
and then tighten the screws securely (18 in-
lb torque).
3. Attach the lower housing to the motor shaft by
aligning the indentation in the shaft with the
set screw.
4. Look inside the upper housing and seat the four
ferules into the pump head screw recesses. These
ferules prevent water seeping past the pump
FLOJET WATER PUMPS
Possible Cause Correction
Debris in pump Remove upper-housing and clean
Defective check valve assembly Replace check valve assembly
Air leak in intake line Tighten all clamps, inspect plumbing
Punctured diaphragm (pump leaks) Replace lower housing or pump head
Crack in pump housing (pump leaks) Replace housing or pump head
Empty water supply tank Re-fill or turn power off to the pump
Pump circuit has no power Check wiring, fuse or breaker
Loose or corroded wiring connection Inspect wire connections
Blown fuse or open broker Replace or reset
Open thermal protector (Motor shell hot) Wait 20-30 minutes for auto reset
Defective motor, drive control or pressure sensor Contact factory
Empty water supply tank Refill
Air trapped in pump Open faucet closest to pump
Debris in pump Remove upper-housing and inspect
Defective check valve assembly Replace check valve assembly
Punctured diaphragm (pump leaks) Replace lower housing assembly
Discharge line leak Inspect plumbing for leaks
Debris in inlet strainer Remove cover and clean screen
Water filter needs changing Replace filter cartridge
Under size plumbing or long runs Increase plumbing I.D.
Defective motor, drive control or pressure sensor Contract factory
 CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.15

Figure 3.23 Flojet Sensor-Flo Demand Water Pump

into the sensor area.
5. Seat the O-ring into the check valve assembly.
(O-ring must not slip out of the check-valve re-
cess.)
6. Install the check valve assembly into the upper
housing by pressing firmly. Start the four pump
head screws by screwing them past the ferules
and then pressing them into the pump about
1-1/2 inches.
7. Align the four screws of the motor housing by
rotating the lower housing so that they align
with the feet of the pump.
8. Tighten the pump head screws evenly to 30 in-
lb of torque.
9. Place the sensor housing and sealing disk
against the upper housing. Insert the two screws
into the upper housing.
10. Slide the sensor under the retaining clip on
the sensor housing and install the cover.
must cycle to deliver the same volume of water.
Reducing Pump Noise
Excessive pump-motor noise is a common complaint
among RV owners. See the checklist below for some
tips to reduce pump noise.
Although it's not common, an older pump may
have defective motor or drive-mechanism bearings.
If the pump becomes progressively noisy with age,
it is likely the pump needs to be replaced.
■ WATER-PRESSURE REGULATORS ■
The water lines in the normal RV are designed to
withstand 45 pounds per square inch (psi) water

Accumulator Tanks

An accumulator tank (Figure 3.24) has an internal

bladder that prevents air from being dissolved into
the water. It is usually installed close to the outlet
side of the pump and can be mounted in virtually
any position. The air bladder is compressed when
the pump charges the water system and returns pres-
sure to the water system when a valve or faucet is
opened. This provides a smoother flow of water and Figure 3.24 Accumulator tank in water line reduces
reduces the number of times that the water pump pump cycling.
3.1 6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

pressure. Most demand water-pump systems produce
approximately 35 to 45 psi. The water connections
from city water can easily exceed 100 psi, which can
damage the RV water system by rupturing a line or
fitting and cause leaking. To control this excess pres-
sure, a pressure regulator is placed in the faucet end
of the hose going to the RV's city-water connection.
These regulators are normally factory set to allow
45 psi to enter the RV. Because an RV water hose is
used to contain water pressure, it is important to
place the regulator at the supply faucet and then con-
nect the hose to it. This limits the water pressure
inside the hose, preventing it from ballooning or
bursting from excess pressure.
Regulators can be purchased with an integral gauge
to show the line pressure going to the RV. You can also
use adjustable regulators with a line-pressure gauge to
suit local conditions. If you use an adjustable regula-
tor, be sure not to exceed the pressure rating of the
water-supply hose and your RV plumbing system.
If your RV is fitted with an internal water-pressure
regulator, there is no need for the inline regulator. If
this is the case, it's best to use a rigid hose when hook-
ing up to water systems with high pressure, especially
in extremely hot weather.
■ REPAIRING FAUCETS ■
Leaks can occur in the water inlet and the drain por-
tions of sinks, showers, and bathtubs. The most com-
mon problem results from the inlet fittings loosening
due to road vibrations; these fittings only have to be
tightened to correct the problem. On occasion the
seals and gaskets inside the faucets may become worn
and need to be replaced (Figure 3.26). Some faucet
leaks are created when the plastic gasket seats be-
come worn to the point that a gasket will no longer
hold a good seal. These seats are not repairable and
it may be faster and cheaper to replace the entire unit
rather than attempt to seal the unit with new gaskets
(Figure 3.27).

Figure 3.25 Rubber mounts on the base reduce Figure 3.26 Seals and gaskets in faucets can
noise when the water pump is operating. become worn and cause leaks.

■ CHECKLIST ■
FOR P U M P N O I S E

■ Make sure the pump is mounted on a solid surface that is not flimsy or prone to vibration; the RV floor is usually the best surface since it is
likely to be the most rigid.
■ Mount the pump on the manufacturer's rubber mounts,- they are designed to minimize noise (Figure 3.25).
■ Make sure all mounting connections, pulleys, and the associated drive mechanisms are tight.
■ The compartment where the pump is located can be insulated with fiberglass, Styrofoam, or Reflextix to provide a sound barrier.

Replacing a Faucet
Follow these steps when replacing a faucet:
1. Turn off the water supply to the faucet. This
is generally located beneath the sink or
lavatory.
2. Open both the hot and cold handles on the
existing faucet.
3. Disconnect water supply lines from the exist-
ing faucet. These are normally secured by
hand-tightened nuts under the faucet. You
may need to use a basin wrench to reach
these nuts (Figure 3.28).
4. Remove the existing faucet by unscrewing the
winged plastic hold-down nuts.
5. Clean the top surface of the sink or lavatory
where the new faucet assembly will rest.
6. Most RV-type faucets come with a mounting
plate. With the mounting plate in place,
insert the two shank ends of the faucet into
the sink (or countertop) and set the faucet
in place.
7. Install the winged plastic locknuts onto the
two shank ends of the faucet and hand
tighten firmly against the underside of the
sink. Make sure these nuts are only hand
tight; do not use a wrench or other tools on
plastic threads.
8. Replace the plastic water-line-supply nuts and
thread them onto the faucet shanks. Again,
hand tighten only.
9. Turn the water supply on again and test
for leaks.
Figure 3.27 Repair kits are available for most
water faucets.
CHAPTER 3 WaterSystems 3.17
■ SEALING SINKS AND BATHTUBS ■
Bathtubs and sinks have a collar-type drain that is
sealed to the bottom using a locknut. In almost all
cases a leak can be attributed to the locking collar
working loose because of road vibrations. The leak
can usually be stopped by simply reaching under the
sink and hand tightening the collar. Do not use any
tools; the fitting is usually plastic and very easy to
damage. If tightening doesn't stop the leak, the rub-
ber or closed-cell foam gasket located in the bottom
of the drain fitting may be defective. Replacement re-
quires loosening the locking collar and removing the
old gasket, installing a new one, and hand tighten-
ing the locking collar back onto the drain fitting.
A good substitute for the gasket—if it cannot be
located—is to use plumber's putty or butyl tape (the
same material used to seal RV windows).
■ HOT-WATER TANKS ■
RV water heaters come in two main types. The most
common consists of an insulated water tank (usually
6, 8, 10, or 12 gallons in capacity); a flue assembly
for routing hot gases through a passage in the tank,
so that heat transfers to the water; a gas burner; a gas-
control valve; and an electronic direct-spark ignition,
an electric pilot-light ignition, or a manual gas-pilot
ignition system. The two major suppliers are Atwood
(Figure 3.29 and Suburban (Figure 3.30). Another
type is an instantaneous or continuous-flow appli-
ance (Figure 3.31), where the water is heated in a cen-
Figure 3.28 A basin wrench can help reach nuts in
tight, hard-to-reach locations.
3.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 3.29 The Atwood water heater (exploded view)

 CHAPTER 3 WaterSystems 3.19

Figure 3.30 The Suburban water heater (exploded view)

3.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
tral core by applying a flame directly to the copper
tubes that contain the water. With this type, water is
heated on demand, eliminating the need for a stor-
age tank. The hot-water supply is almost endless, al-
though technically there is actually a limit—beyond
the usual freshwater capacity of most RVs.
The water in most hot-water tanks is heated via
a propane-fired burner, although some may use 120-
volt AC power to take advantage of campground
hookups. Electric (120-volt AC) is used when hooked
up in campsites, while gas is used when hookups are
not available. Both fuel sources can be used simul-
taneously for faster recovery rates.
Water heaters are rated for Btu input and the rate
of 100-degree rise (the number of gallons of water
per hour that the heater can raise 100 degrees). Wa-
ter heaters require little maintenance but should be
subject to periodic tank flushing, winterizing, and
minor burner adjustments.
Water Heaters with Pilot Assemblies
Consistent pilot-light outage (for models so
equipped) may be caused by a number of things,
most often a weak pilot caused by a dirty orifice
and/or low gas pressure. Check gas pressure (see
LP-gas section, page 2.5), to confirm that there are
ll inches of water-column pressure. When the con-
Figure 3.31 The instantaneous water heater
trol knob is held in the pilot position, gas is supplied
to the pilot orifice, which is manually lit with a match
or appliance lighter. The pilot flame engulfs the ther-
mocouple, which generates millivolts to the gas con-
trol's magnet assembly. When the magnet receives
the specified millivolts (depending on brand), it
allows the gas to flow to the pilot without holding
the control knob in the pilot position. If the water
temperature exceeds 180°F, the ECO (energy cutoff)
limit switch in the gas valve trips open permanently.
If this happens, you'll have to replace the gas valve.
CAUTION: Never light the water heater without first filling if
with water.
Cleaning the Pilot
Cleaning the orifice is a delicate job since the hole
the gas passes through is only slightly larger than the
diameter of a human hair. Do not attempt to clean
the orifice with any metal object; the hole will be en-
larged and the pilot flame will be too large. Clean-
ing can be done with rubbing alcohol and a wooden
toothpick.
To clean the pilot, follow these steps:
1. Remove the pilot tube and orifice from the
main burner assembly (Figure 3.32).
2. Soak the orifice end in alcohol.
 CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.21

water tanks. The earlier model is made by Robertshaw

(Figure 3.34), and it has a 1/4-inch pilot gas line mount-
ing on the left side of the main burner. The current
pilot is made by Jade (Figure 3.35), and it has a
1/8-inch gas line and pilot mounting on the right side
of the main burner. The Robertshaw is no longer avail-
able, and the Jade must be substituted. If there is no
location on the right side of the main burner to mount
the Jade pilot, a new burner with the proper holes
will have to be replaced as well.

Atwood Pilot Adjustment

Figure 3.32 The pilot tube can be removed from
the hot-water tank burner assembly with a line
The flame height for the pilot is regulated by the gas
wrench.
valve and pilot orifice. Early-model gas controls have
a pilot-adjustment screw, which actually has very lit-
tle effect on the pilot. There is no pilot adjustment
in the current White Rodger controls. The flame
should be high enough to engulf the thermocouple.
If the pilot is larger, the ECO in the gas valve could
blow, stopping the gas flow.

Figure 3.33 A toothpick should be used to clean

the pilot orifice.

3. Use a toothpick to clean the orifice hole

(Figure 3.33). Be careful not to break any
wood off in the hole.
4. Reinstall the pilot tube and burner assembly Figure 3.34 The Atwood-Robertshaw pilot
and try to relight. If there still is an inade-
quate flame and the orifice is dogged, replace
the tube and pilot burner assembly.
5. Dirt and debris lodged in the pilot burner
can also create a frequent pilot-outage situa-
tion. Make sure the air passage around the
pilot burner is clean—free of dirt, insects,
and corrosion.

Atwood Pilot Assembly

There are two pilot assemblies used in Atwood hot- Figure 3.35 The Atwood-Jade pilot
3.22 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE H O T - W A T E R T A N K

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Pilot outage Poor pilot flame Replace pilot orifice

Fluttering pilot flame Clean or replace orifice
Weak thermocouple Replace thermocouple
Insufficient gas pressure Adjust to 11 inches water-column pressure
Weak gas-control magnet Replace control unit
Obstructed air intake Clean intake tube
Improper air adjustment Adjust air shutter
Pilot extinguishes itself when attempting Thermocouple needs more time to heat Wait 30 seconds
to light flame Loose thermocouple Tighten connection
Weak thermocouple Replace thermocouple
Weak gas-control magnet Replace gas control
No spark (direct ignition heaters) Spark gap incorrect Adjust gap
Corroded terminals Clean terminals
Cracked insulators Replace electrodes
Cracked wires Replace lead wire
Overly long high-voltage wire Shorten lead
Dirt and dust on wires Clean system
Flame will not establish (direct ignition) Wrong spark-gap adjustment Adjust spark gap
Malfunctioning valve Replace valve
Early lockout Reversed polarity Reverse wires to power and ground
Poor ground Establish good ground
High gas pressure Lower to 11 inches water-column pressure
Sensor probe Adjust position in flame
Erratic burner flame Blocked burner orifice Clean orifice
Misaligned main burner Align burner tube
Obstruction in burner Remove obstruction
Improper air adjustment Adjust air shutter
Insufficient gas pressure Adjust gas pressure
Poor gas supply Replace gas in tank
Yellow-colored flame Improper air mixture Adjust air shutter
Plugged burner orifice Clean orifice
Obstruction in tube Clear burner tube
Wrong gas pressure Adjust to 11 inches water-column pressure
Obstructed heater grill Clear grill
Misaligned burner jet Align burner jet

■ TROUBLESHOOT I N G ■
THE H O T - W A T E R T A N K ,
Problem Possible Cause
Smoking and/or sooting Improper air mixture
Misaligned main burner
Obstruction in main jet
Poor gas supply
Main burner will not light Blocked burner jet
Improper air adjustment
Defective gas control valve
Improper air setting
Obstruction in tube
Incorrect thermostat setting
Defective gas control
Relief valve leaks Foreign material in seat
Air in system
Defective valve
Figure 3.36 The thermocouple can be removed
from the gas control valve with a 3/8-inch wrench.
Replacing the Thermocouple
Many times, a pilot light will go out almost imme-
diately after lighting. Here are some simple checks
and remedies for this problem:
1. Make sure the thermocouple is given
adequate time to heat, at least thirty seconds.
If more than thirty seconds are required,
replace the thermocouple.
CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.23
c o n t i n u e d
Correction
Adjust air shutter
Align burner jet
Clear main burner jet
Replace gas supply
Clear burner jet
Adjust burner jet
Clear burner jet
Adjust air shutter
Clear obstruction
Set higher or lower
Replace valve
Flip valve handle to clear
Purge all air in system
Replace valve
2. The thermocouple is removed with a 3/8-inch
open-end wrench at the gas-control valve. The
other end is held in a spring-clip arrangement
that allows the thermocouple to be pulled
straight out of the holder (Figure 3.36).
3. Slip the new unit into the holder until one-
third of the end will be exposed directly to
the pilot flame. The other end is tightened
finger tight in the gas-control valve. Then
tighten one-quarter turn with the wrench. Do
not overtighten or undertighten, or the unit
will not function.
4. Open the gas valve to the pilot position, de-
press the pilot-light button, and hold while
lighting the flame. Release the button after
thirty seconds; the pilot should remain lit.
Testing the Thermocouple
If you have access to a magnet-assembly thermo-
couple tester (Figure 3.37), you can check the ther-
mocouple function. Screw the thermocouple into
the tester and heat for fifteen seconds. Press the
plunger down; if the plunger pops up in less than
fifteen seconds, replace the thermocouple.
3.24 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Suburban Pilot Adjustment
Two types of gas valves (Figure 3.38) are used for
manual-light Suburban water heaters: Robertshaw
(Unitrol) and SIT. The current models (as of mid-
1995) use the SIT valves. A pilot-flame-adjustment
screw is provided for both models' gas valves. The
adjustment is on the front and to the right in the
Robertshaw valve and on the right side in the SIT.
This is the only way to adjust the pilot flame. The pi-
lot flame should engulf the tip of the thermocouple
and be blue or orange-blue in color.
Main-Burner Adjustment
The main-burner flame can also affect the pilot flame
and determine the overall performance of the
Figure 3.37 Magnet assembly thermocouple tester
Figure 3.38 Suburban hot-water tanks use Unitrol (left) or SIT (right) gas valve.
water heater. The proper steps for adjustment are as
follows:
1. Slide the air-shutter valve so that it is about
one-quarter of the way open (Figure 3.39).
2. The flame should burn predominantly blue
with a short tip of yellow.
3. If the flame is too yellow, open the shutter
slightly until only a tip of yellow is visible.
This may be necessary for optimum heater
performance at high elevations.
4. The flame should not roar excessively. If it
does, it is likely that the air shutter is open
too far and the gas mixture is too lean.
Close the shutter slightly until you see a
slight tip of yellow on a blue flame. Tighten
the shutter-locking screw or nut.
Figure 3.39 Adjust air-shutter valve for proper
air/gas mixture.

5. If the flame will not adjust, it is possible that
the main-burner jet is clogged, incorrectly
centered in the burner tube, or the burner
tube itself contains dirt and obstructions.
6. Turn off the flame, loosen the burner-tube
Figure 3.40 The burner jet in the hot-water tank is
located in the end of the gas-control valve.
Figure 3.41 The burner jet should be inspected for
any accumulation of dirt.
Figure 3.42 The orifice in a Suburban water heater can be changed if the RV is always used in
high-altitude areas.
CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.25
hold-down screws, and remove the tube from
the end of the gas-control valve (Figure 3.40).
7. The burner jet is located in the end of the
gas-control valve and is removable with a
small wrench. Check to see that the jet is
clear. It can be cleaned in alcohol, and a
wooden toothpick can be inserted in the hole
to remove any dirt accumulation.
8. Clean the inside of the burner tube
(Figure 3.41).
9. Install the jet and burner tube and attempt to
light; adjust the air shutter to attain a proper
flame.
Suburban Late-Model Main-Burner Adjustment
The burner flame cannot be adjusted on later-model
Suburban water heaters; the older ones with an air-
shutter control can be adjusted as previously de-
scribed. The burner assembly is preset from the
factory. Generally, the water heater is certified to work
as designed in altitudes up to 4,500 feet. Operation
above this elevation should be derated (orifice
change) by 4 percent for every 1,000-foot gain in el-
evation (Figure 3.42). If you live in a high-altitude
area, have your qualified service technician (certified
by Suburban) make the orifice change. This should
not be necessary when traveling briefly in high-alti-
tude areas.
Main-Burner Alignment
The manifold and main burner must align with the
3.26 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
center of the burner tube for the gas to mix properly
with the incoming air (Figure 3.43). Check to see
that the center of the jet is parallel with the center of
the burner tube, so that the orifice disperses the gas
straight down the center of the burner tube. If it is
not, the tube can be loosened and rotated slightly
up or down until the jet is parallel, or the control
can be moved. If the control is backed off to make
the alignment, make sure there are no water leaks at
the coupling. Tighten the tube hold-down screws.
Atwood Electric Element
Some Atwood hot-water tanks are equipped with a
120-volt AC heating element. If it fails to heat the
water, the following steps should be taken:
CAUTION: Always use care when diagnosing 120-volt AC appliances.
Figure 3.43 Manifold and main burner must align
with the center of the burner tube.
Figure 3.44 Atwood electric heating element and thermostat used in later model water heaters.
If you are not experienced with 120-volt AC voltage, have a professional
technician make the diagnosis and repairs.
1. Remove junction-box cover in the rear of
the water heater.
2. Make sure the control switch is in the on
position and that there is power to the water
heater. Use a multimeter to measure voltage.
3. Locate and manually reset the ECO high-
limit switch.
4. Make sure there is continuity (use a mul-
timeter) between the wire leads connected
to the electric thermostat (Figure 3.44).
5. Move temperature dial to high if water is
not sufficiently hot.
6. Make sure the connection between the heat-
ing element and electric thermostat is good.
7. Confirm that there is continuity between
center screws in the heating element (the
ones with wire connections).
8. If there is continuity between the flange of
the heating element and the screw in the
heating element (the one with a wire lead
that goes to the electric thermostat), the
heating element has shorted and must be
replaced.
9. Make sure there is a good ground to the
heating element.
CAUTION: The heating element will self-destruct if allowed to operate
for an extended time with the tank empty. If the heating element is
allowed to run in a dry tank, allow the tank to cool for two to three hours
before adding water. This will prevent the tank from possibly collapsing.

Atwood Bolt-on Heating Element
Early model Atwood water heaters used a bolt-on
120-volt AC heating element (Figure 3.45) and a one-
piece thermostat/ECO limit switch. The adjustable
rectangular thermostat is surface mounted to the in-
ner tank using a steel clip. If this thermostat is mak-
ing unobstructed contact with the aluminum tank,
and the temperature is set to the high position, the
water should heat to 130 °F. Keep in mind that the
heating process is slower on electric than on gas.
Heating elements in 1996 were changed to have a
1,400-watt rating (from 1,500 watts) to provide a
better cushion for the 15-amp breaker (it now draws
12.7 amps). This increases heating time slightly.
Figure 3.45 Atwood bolt-on heating element
Figure 3.46 Atwood screw-in heating element
Figure 3.47 Suburban water heater 120-volt AC wiring
CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.27
Atwood Screw-in Heating Element
Current Atwood water heaters use a screw-in 120-
volt AC heating element (Figure 3.46) and a sepa-
rate preset thermostat and ECO limit switch. It is
rated at 1,400 watts. The thermostat is set at 140°F
and is the same type of unit that's used on the gas
side of the electronic-ignition water heaters. The ECO
is a backup thermostat and will trip if the thermo-
stat fails and the water temperature exceeds 180°F.
Suburban Electric Element
The most common problem is energizing the water
heater before filling with water. This may trip the RV
circuit breaker or the high-limit switch in the water
heater. If the unit fails to heat, follow these steps:
1. Check the circuit breaker in the RV panel.
Reset if tripped.
2. Check for 120 volts AC to the on/off switch
(Figure 3.47) in the lower left-hand corner of
the control panel. If voltage is present on one
side of the switch, and the heater still doesn't
work, replace the switch.
3. Press the reset button in the control panel.
4. Check all wire connections if the unit fails to
heat after resetting the button.
5. Check the heating element for continuity us-
ing a multimeter.
6. If the water heater becomes too hot and
activates the reset control, push the reset
switch pad.
3.28 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 3.48 Atwood Water Heater wiring

■ CHECKLIST ■
________________________________ATWOOD DSI SYSTEM_____________________
■ Make sure battery voltage is more than 10.5 volts.
■ Tank must be filled to operate. If water heater is lit before filling, ECO will almost immediately shut down operation.
■ Make sure main-burner tube is clear of spider webs and corrosion.
■ Check that the spark gap (the space between electrode and ground) is 1/8 inch (Figure 3.49).

CAUTION: A gap that is too wide and arching to ground can damage the circuit board.

7. Make sure the thermostat is being held

tightly against the tank.

Atwood Electronic ignition (DSI) Water Heater

Water heaters with a direct-spark ignition (DSI) sys-

tem (Figure 3.48) rely on a circuit board that pro-
vides a spark to light the flame when the switch is
placed in the on position. Electrodes sense the flame
within six to eight seconds; if a signal is not sensed,
the circuit board will shut down the gas valve, and Figure 3.49 Spark gap in an Atwood DSI water
heater

the system goes into safety lockout. The thermostat
uses a normally closed, nonadjustable temperature
switch that sends current to the circuit board; it opens
when the water temperature reaches 140 °F. A one-
shot heat-sensing fuse (thermal shutoff) will trip
when water temperature exceeds 190 °F. This fuse is
located on the incoming power wire and connected
to the thermostat. Obstructions in the main-burner
tube or flue tube due to spiders or mud wasps are
the usual cause for the thermal cutoff to trip. These
obstructions cause the main-burner flame to burn
outside the main-burner tube, a very dangerous sit-
uation. If this happens, consult your dealer for re-
pairs. An ECO limit switch sends voltage to the
solenoid valve and will open if water temperature
exceeds 180°F. The dual-solenoid valve will only
open and send gas to the electrodes when there's a
minimum of 10.5 volts DC.
Suburban Electronic Ignition (DSI)
Water Heater
The Suburban DSI water heater is designed to work
when DC voltage is between 10.5 and 13.5. Exces-
sive voltage can damage the circuit board. Voltage
should be supplied from the filtered side of the con-
verter. When there is a call for heat, a high-voltage
spark is generated from the spark electrode to
ground. The spark gap (between the electrode and
ground) should be 1/8 inch. The unit is designed to
Figure 3.50 Suburban DSI water heater thermostats and reset buttons: Models SW6D, SW6DE, and SW6DM
(left); V-series (center); Models SW6PE, SW6PER, SW6DE (right).
CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.29
allow for a fifteen-second purge at the start of the
heating cycle followed by a 6 to 8-second trial for
ignition. Sparking ceases when the flame is present.
The water heater is protected by a high-tempera-
ture-limit ECO switch that trips when water tem-
perature exceeds 180°F. Thermostats are preset for
130 ° F water. The burner cannot activate unless wa-
ter temperature falls below 1000 F. The water heater
uses a thermostat/ECO switch (Figure 3.50) in a
bracket that must keep both switches tight against
the tank. The ECO can be reset manually by push-
ing a button.
Suburban Electrode Assembly
The igniter will go into lockout if the signal from
the electrode (Figure 3.51) is too small. It locks
when the DC current falls to 1.5 microamps. Us-
ing a microamp meter, the flame current should
be 3 microamps. To measure flame current, use the
following procedure:
Shut off power to the system and remove the
flame-sensing wire from the electrode terminal and
insert the microamp meter in series with the sen-
sor electrode and ground. The positive terminal of
the meter goes to the component board and the
negative terminal to the sensing electrode.
Energize the igniter. The reading should be
3 microamps.
3.30 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 3.51 Suburban water heater 12-volt DC wiring. Disconnect Power Supply before servicing thermostat
and hi-limit under access cover.
If the microamps are too low, continue with the
following:
1. Check input polarity. Terminal 1 should be
hot (12 volts DC) with respect to ground.
Terminal 6 is neutral (0 voltage) with re-
spect to ground.
2. Check for proper grounding. If a flame is
present during the trial for ignition period,
but the system shuts down, make sure the
burner is properly grounded.
3. Check the electrode ceramic for cracks or
carbon.
4. Make sure electrode leads are not corroded.
Clean if necessary.
5. Check the sensor-wire continuity with a
multimeter.
6. Check the spark gap; it must be 1/8 inch.
If no spark is present, check the following:
1. Terminal 1 at the circuit board should have
voltage. If not, clean the connections at
the circuit board with a pencil eraser first.
2. Check the voltage through ECO and the
thermostat. If voltage is on one side and
not the other, replace thermostat or ECO.
Inspect the connections.
3. If voltage is present through ECO and the
thermostat to the module board, and there
is still no sparking, replace the circuit
board.
4. If replacing the circuit board fails to correct
the problem, check the high-voltage wire
for cracks or breaks, and replace if neces-
sary.
Sparking should occur and the gas valve
should open simultaneously if power is supplied
to the igniter. If sparking occurs and the valve fails to
open, check the following:

1. Place a voltmeter (multimeter) between ter-
minal 4 on the input connector and ground
(or across the valve). Recycle the ignitor by
turning the on/off switch to off for five sec-
onds and then back on. Voltage should be
present at valve.
2. If voltage is present and the valve fails to
open, remove the wires from the valve ter-
minals and retest the valve on a known volt-
age source. If the valve fails to function,
replace it.
3. Make sure circuit board connections are
good.
4. If voltage is not present at terminals 4 and
6 or at the valve, replace the circuit board.
Tank Cleaning
If the hot-water tank is used a great deal during the
year, you may want to flush it out a number of
times to remove accumulation of dirt and scale that
can shorten tank life. To clean the tank:
1. Turn off the main water supply, either the
city supply or the 12-volt DC pump.
2. Drain the tank by removing the plug, the
anode rod, or opening the wing-shaped
drain petcock on the outside of the tank,
depending on the style of water heater (Fig-
ure 3.52).
Figure 3.52 Some water heater models use a pet-
cock for draining the water.
CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.31
Figure 3.53 Pressure relief valve will open when
the temperature exceeds 150°F.
3. Open the relief valve to admit air to speed
draining (Figure 3.53).
4. If the drain valve becomes clogged while
draining, a small wire, such as a coat
hanger, pushed through the drain opening
will dislodge any scale blocking the water's
path.
5. With the city water connected and turned
on, flush the heater for about five minutes
through the drain valve. This will dislodge
and flush corrosive scale particles from the
tank.
6. Close the drain or replace the plug/anode
rod; open a hot-water faucet inside the RV
to bleed air from the tank. Close the faucet;
the tank is now clean and flushed.
Removing Foul Odors from Hot Water Tanks
The hot-water tank is protected by a high-tem-
perature cutoff switch that will turn off the flame
at 180 degrees F. This safety switch prevents the wa-
ter heater from operating when there's no water in
the tank (or when operating with the bypass valves
in use for winter storage).
Over the years, corrosion builds in the tank due
to hardness and minerals in the water. If you fail
to position the bypass valves for normal operation
3.32 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 3.54 An anode rod is used to protect the
tank in certain Suburban water heaters.
or forget to fill the tank and attempt to operate the
water heater, the corrosion heats up beyond the
normal water temperature of 140 degrees F. This
"cooks" the contents before the cutoff switch shuts
down the flame. Consequently, the tank takes on
a foul odor. To remove this foul odor, follow these
steps:
• Shut off the water supply.
• Drain the tank via the plug (anode rod if so
equipped).
• Remove the pressure-relief valve (the valve in
Figure 3.55 An anode rod should be replaced when material loss is at 75 percent.
the top portion of the unit with the lever that releases
pressure).
• Replace the drain plug or anode rod.
• Pour in three to four gallons of white vinegar
through relief valve opening (use a funnel).
• Replace the pressure relief valve.
• Open the closest hot-water faucet and turn on
the pump so the tank fills.
• Turn on the water heater and cycle until the flame
shuts down.
• Close the water supply.
• Remove the drain plug or anode rod and drain
the tank. CAUTION: Water is very hot at this point.
• Replace the drain plug and anode rod and refill
the tank.
• Repeat if necessary.
Perform this procedure at least twice a year to
maintain a fresh-smelling tank.
Replacing the Suburban Anode Rod
Certain Suburban water heaters are protected by an
anode rod (Figure 3.54) that also serves as the drain
plug. Replacement of this rod is recommended when
the consumption of the material or weight loss is
greater than 75 percent (Figure 3.55). The anode is
a sacrificial rod that provides cathodic protection for

the tank. It is very important; failure to replace the
anode rod in a timely manner may lead to prema-
ture tank wear and void the manufacturer's warranty.
Leaking Pressure-Temperature Relief Valve
All hot-water tanks are protected by pressure-relief
valves designed to "pop" when water temperature ex-
ceeds 150°F. In most cases, weeping or dripping of
this valve does not mean it's defective. Most likely the
air space needs to be returned to the top of the tank.
To replace the air, follow these steps:
1. Drain the hot-water tank while the faucets
remain open.
2. Close the faucets and turn the water pump
on. Make sure there's water in the freshwater
tank.
3. Allow the hot-water tank to fill—until the
water pump cycles off.
4. Light the water heater (or turn on the switch
for DSI models).
5. When the water heater cycles off (water is up
to temperature), slowly open each hot-water
faucet until the water flows smoothly.
6. Air is now returned to the top of the hot-
water tank and normal use can continue.
PrecisionTemp Instantaneous Water Heater
The RV 500 instantaneous water heater supplies con-
tinuous hot water upon demand. It uses a micro-
processor to control the heating of the water. The tank
holds less than a pint of water, making winterization
very simple. All you have to do is open a valve and
drain the water from the tank or fill the tank with
nontoxic antifreeze. There's no need for a bypass kit
(see Winterizing the Water System, page 3.35).
When LP-gas and 12-volt DC power are supplied to
the RV 500 water heater, and there's no water flow, the
unit will remain dormant except for a green LED (Fig-
ure 3.56) flashing once each second. The micro-
processor is actively monitoring the three temperature
sensors, the set temperature request, and the water flow
each half second in anticipation of a request for hot
water. When the hot-water faucet is opened and flow
is at least 0.4 gallons per minute (GPM), the micro-
CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.33
processor sends ignition voltage to the modulating
valve and powers the ignition relay on the board. The
voltage must be at least 10.8 volts DC for the water
heater to function.
If there is no green LED flashing or it stays on but
does not flash, take the following steps:
1. Check that the power is on and the panel
breaker is not tripped. With the power off,
detach the 1/4-inch spade terminal leads of the
power supply. Turn the power on and check
for voltage with a multimeter.
2. Be sure all electrical connectors are secure
and that polarity has not be reversed
CAUTION: Reverse polarity will damage the circuit boards.
3. If you have connected the power supply
(12-volt DC) lead from the converter, make
sure it is hooked to a filtered terminal. If you
cannot find a filtered connection, hook the
power lead directly to the battery. The RV 500
must have clean DC voltage to operate prop-
erly. It can only tolerate less than plus or
minus 0.3 volts AC (dirty voltage).
If the green LED flashes, but no ignition (igniter
sparks, no gas), take the following steps:
1. Check that the pop-out button in the ECO
limit switch is pushed in. This switch opens
when the water temperature exceeds 1650 F
and requires manual reset.
2. Make sure the propane supply is on and that
there is propane in the storage tank/cylinder.
Gas pressure may be too low to operate the
Figure 3.56 PrecisionTemp instantaneous water
heater uses LEDs for diagnosing problems.
Microprocesser is in a pull-out drawer.
3.34 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
unit. The supply line should be at least
3/16 inch in diameter and shorter than 25 feet
in length.
3. Check for a faulty on/off solenoid at the
tank/cylinder that works with the propane-
leak detector. Also, if the unit is equipped
with an on/off solenoid, make sure the
orifice is at least 3/16 inch in diameter.
If your RV 500 water heater has a large fluctuation
in temperature, take the following steps:
1. If operating a demand water pump, you
probably need to install an accumulator tank
with a rubber bladder. The pulsing of the
water pump confuses the flowmeter.
2. Check the aerators and strainers used on the
faucets and showerhead. If they become
clogged, water flow is restricted below the
minimum required to activate the system.
3. Make sure the water connections in back are
not reversed. The RV 500 is opposite the stan-
dard-type RV hot-water tanks on the market.
4. Check the flowmeter for direction. It should
turn counterclockwise.
5. The flame may be cycling between minimum
burn and off. If so, check the water flow as
described below.
Determining Cold-Water Bypass for RV 500
Figure 3.57 Latest microcontroller provides
additional diagnostics for RV 500 instantaneous
water heater.
A cold-water crossover may occur when the cold wa-
ter is connected to the hot-water line, and is allowed
to enter the hot-water line between the water heater
and the point of use. Examples include showers, hot-
water-tank bypass kits, showers with a shutoff in the
showerhead, washing machines, dishwashers, and
in plumbing to water-use appliances (usually in par-
allel instead of in series). There can also be a planned
crossover in the shower. The federal government has
mandated that shower-mixing valves have anti-scald
provisions built into them. If so equipped, you can-
not get 100 percent hot water from the showerhead
when the cold-water valve is off—designed to al-
low bleeding of cold water. Thus the lavatory sink
may have hotter water than the showerhead.
Flowmeter Checkout
To check the flowmeter, follow these steps:
1. Find the 3-pin connector in the circuit board.
Using a multimeter, hook the positive probe
to the red wire in the back of the connector
and the negative probe to the black wire.
With the power on, voltage should read
4 volts DC. If not, the flowmeter must be
replaced.
2. Move the positive probe to the middle or
white wire of the flowmeter. Turn water on so
that flow is greater than 0.5 gpm. The
meter should jump to values between 0 and
5 volts DC. If not, replace the flowmeter.
3. If your unit has an EL 9049-D or later version
microcontroller (Figure 3.57), conduct the fol-
lowing test: With the power on and the water
running, watch the green LED. The LED will
flash approximately once each second. Watch
the LED to find one delay between flashes
(1.5 seconds versus 1 second). Begin counting
green LED flashes until the next longer delay.
The flashes correspond to water flow. Each
flash is 1/8 of a gallon. Use the formula: Water
flow, GPM=number of green flashes ÷ 8. You can
confirm this by running water into a gallon
bucket and using a stopwatch.
Service Codes

As long as your RV 500 has the EL 9049-D or later
microcontroller, you can use a series of red LED
flashes to diagnose problems.
■ Red double flash per second: T_mid thermister
has failed.
■ Single red flash: T_out thermister has failed.
■ Two red flashes: T_in thermister has failed.
■ Three red flashes: T_mid thermister is not in
the 30° to 160°F operational range.
■ Four red flashes: T_out thermister is not in the
30° to 180°F operational range.
■ Five red flashes: T_in thermister is not in the
30 ° to 110 ° F operational range.
■ Six red flashes: Water is flowing through the
unit backward. Water inlet and outlet con-
nections must be reversed.
■ Seven red flashes: Direct spark ignition (DSI)
has timed out after two 3- to 5-second igni-
tion attempts and the DSI board has locked
out. Sequence will be repeated after 45 sec-
onds. You can also reset the DSI by turning
off the water for a few seconds, and then on.
The red LED will continue to flash even
though the unit is now operating. To reset
the LED, turn the power off, then on.
■ WINTERIZING THE WATER SYSTEM ■
Winterizing the RV's water system is necessary to pro-
Figure 3.58 Commercial air-fitting for city-water
hookup is used to blow out the water lines.
CHAPTER 3 Water Systems 3.35
tect all components from freezing. There are two ways
to accomplish the job:
1. Drain all water from the system and use com-
pressed air to blow out remaining water that
may lie in low spots within the system.
2. Fill the system with a potable nontoxic
antifreeze until all water is removed from
the system.
In each case, the hot-water tank must be drained.
When a nontoxic winterizing fluid is used, it is best
to install a winterizing (bypass) kit that allows the
water system to bypass the hot-water tank so that ex-
pensive antifreeze is not needed to fill the heater.
Winterizing Using Compressed Air
To winterize using compressed air, follow these steps:
CAUTION: Use only nontoxic antifreeze designed for RV use.
1. Open all drains in the system, including the
hot-water tank.
2. If you are going to use the compressed-air
Figure 3.59 Use only non-toxic antifreeze to
winterize the RV water system.
3.36 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
method, purchase an air-fitting adapter for
the city-water connection so that you can
blow the air from that location (Figure 3.58).
3. Operate the 12-volt DC pump with a faucet
open until it runs dry. You can also drain the
system from the water-heater drain plug
while running the water pump.
4. Connect the air fitting to the city-water
hookup and close all the drains except the
one for the hot-water tank.
5. Blow air through the city-water hookup
until all the water is removed from the hot-
water tank.
6. Close the bypass valves to the water heater.
Open the faucet farthest from the water
pump. Blow air through the city-hookup line
until only air comes out of the faucet.
7. Open another faucet (farthest ones first) and
then close the first one; blow out the line un-
til all the water is gone. Continue this proce-
dure until all faucets, including the shower,
are drained.
8. Open the toilet valve; allow the air to force
out any water there.
9. Close all faucets; the system is winterized.
Winterizing Using Nontoxic Antifreeze
CAUTION: Use only nontoxic antifreeze designed for RV use.
If you choose to fill the system with nontoxic an-
tifreeze there are a couple of methods you can use
(Figure 3.59). Installation of a hot-water-tank bypass
kit will avoid having to fill the entire water heater
with antifreeze.
Pour a couple gallons of potable nontoxic anti-
freeze directly into the freshwater tank of the RV. Op-
erate the water pump so that the solution will flow
through all the lines, starting with the faucet farthest
from the pump. Leave the faucet open until the an-
tifreeze is visible (pink in color). Operate each faucet
in the same fashion until all lines are filled with
the fluid.
Another method requires less fluid since you do
not pour it into the water tank. A connection is made
at the inlet side of the water pump, and the antifreeze
is drawn from the container through the pump, fill-
ing all the lines and accessories in the water system.
You must make sure that the freshwater tank and the
hot-water tank are drained completely.
Shut off all faucets and turn off the water pump;
the system is winterized. After the winter storage pe-
riod, the hot-water bypass valves must be turned
on after the antifreeze has been flushed out of the
system. The fluid is tasteless, odorless, and nontoxic,
but it's a good idea to sanitize the system (see page
3.6) after a winter-long storage stint.
 ■ CHAPTER 4 ■
SANITATION SYSTEMS
Manufacturers of RVs have several approach-
es to handling sanitation but they almost
exclusively use a black-water holding tank to cap-
ture sewage from the toilet, a gray-water holding
tank to capture drain water from the shower, lava-
tory, and kitchen sink, and myriad lines leading to
the dump valves. Depending on floor plans, some
large fifth-wheels and motorhomes may have a
separate gray-water holding tank to service the gal-
ley area.
■ TOILETS ■
Three types of toilets are used in RV applications:
freshwater, recirculating and portable. The most com-
mon type of toilet, the freshwater, is mounted per-
manently, flushing with clean water from the RV's
onboard freshwater storage tank. The flushing mech-
anism, whether a foot-operated pedal or a hand-op-
erated lever, allows a valve in the bottom of the bowl
to open, permitting the contents to be flushed into
the holding tank. A stream of water under pressure
from the RV's water system swirls around the bowl,
cleaning it and flushing the contents into the hold-
ing tank. Many models have two levers, each work-
ing independently of the other so the bowl can be
filled with water prior to use. Other types of toilets
have a dual-position foot-operated lever.
Freshwater toilet bowls are made of either durable
plastic or porcelain, depending on the brand and
model. These toilets flush using simple, dependable
components. A vacuum breaker (back-flow restric-
tor) mounted at the rear of the toilet prevents wa-
ter from the toilet from backing into the RV's
freshwater system. The vacuum breaker works by cre-
ating a vacuum in the toilet water supply line so that
water flowing to other faucets in the RV will not suck
water from the toilet.
Maintaining the Freshwater Toilet
While freshwater toilets require little maintenance,
certain precautions must be taken to prolong the life
of the mechanisms, especially the slide ball, or flap-
per valve. The first rule of thumb is to make sure all
the contents are removed (flow into the holding tank)
from the bowl before closing the valve. If toilet pa-
per gets caught between the valve and seal, the toilet
may emit odors from the holding tank. If paper or
contents become lodged in the seal, the cleaning
process is not pleasant. Do not use a sharp object (Fig-
ure 4.1) to clean the seal area since damage may oc-
cur.
To clean the toilet, use a nonabrasive cleaner and
a soft rag or paper towel. Do not use a highly con-
centrated or high-acid-content household cleaner.
Scouring powder or other abrasives can damage the
seal and other plastic parts in the toilet mechanism.
Thetford Freshwater Toilets
If the toilet must be removed to replace a leaky flange
seal, proceed with the following steps for the vari-
ous models of Thetford freshwater toilets.
Replacing the Aqua-Magic Aurora To replace the Aqua-
Magic Aurora model toilet (Figure 4.2):
4.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

1. Turn off the water supply to the toilet.

2. Insert a 2-1/2-inch object to prop open the slide
valve in the flush hole. Attach a cord or wire
to keep it from falling into the holding tank.
3. Remove the side-access covers. These snap
out from the top of the cover.
4. Remove the water line from the water-valve
elbow while supporting the elbow with a
wrench.
5. Use a 12-point, 1/2-inch ratcheting box-end
wrench to remove the hold-down nuts.
6. Lift the toilet from the mounting flange.
7. Reverse the procedure when replacing the
Figure 4.1 A Q-tip can be used to clean the valve toilet. Use a new toilet seal. The Aurora toilet
seal in the toilet has a universal flange designed to fit the bolt
patterns of all current-model RV toilets.

Figure 4.2 Aqua-Magic Aurora freshwater toilet (exploded view)

 CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.3

■ TROUBLESHOOTI N G M
THE T H E T F O R D A Q U A - M A G I C I V T O I L E T

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Wafer keeps running into bowl Sticking levers Make sure levers return all the way to left
Sticking slide valve Remove foreign material from blade or
seat; replace if cleaning does not work.
Toilet leaks on floor Leaking water-supply line Tighten as necessary
Loose closet-flange nuts Tighten as necessary
Wrong closet-flange height Make sure flange height is between
1/8 and 1/16inch
Defective closet flange Replace seal
Poor flush Flush duration too short Hold levers open for at least two to
three seconds
Bad water flow Adjust flow rate to 10 quarts per minute

CAUTION: Do not overtighten the water-line fitting or
damage will result.
Replacing the Aqua-Magic IV Model Toilet To replace the
Aqua-Magic IV model toilet (Figure 4.3):
1. Turn off the water supply to the toilet. If you
do not have a valve behind the toilet, make
sure the water pump is off or the water-
hookup faucet is shut. Purge any pressure
from the line by releasing the toilet valve.
2. Disconnect the water-supply line from the
water valve located at the rear of the toilet.
Hold the water-valve hex nut with an 11/16 inch
wrench while loosening the water-line fitting.
Be careful not to exert too much force or the
fitting can become damaged.
3. Remove the mounting flange bolts.
4. Lift the toilet from the mounting flange.
5. Reverse this procedure when replacing the
toilet. Use a new toilet seal.
CAUTION: Do not overtighten the water-line fitting or in the flush hole. This can be accomplished by us-
damage will result.
Replacing Aqua-Magic Galaxy or Starlite Models To replace into the holding tank. Blow out the lines using com-
either the Aqua-Magic Galaxy or Starlite model toi-
lets (Figure 4.4):
1. Turn off the water supply to the toilet.
2. Insert a 2-1/2 inch object to prop open the slide
valve in the flush hole. Attach a cord or wire
to keep it from falling into the holding tank.
Use a 12-point, 1/2-inch ratcheting box-end
wrench to reach the front bolt through the
opening above the foot pedal.
3. Remove the rear bolt—positioned at about
11 o'clock—using the ratcheting box-end
wrench if there is room between the toilet
and the wall. If there is not adequate room,
the bolt can be reached via the access hole in
the top of the toilet. Pry the plug open with a
coin and insert a deep 1/2 inch socket and uni-
versal swivel attached to a 12-inch extension
to remove the nut.
4. Lift the toilet from the mounting flange.
5. Reverse this procedure when replacing the
toilet. Use a new toilet seal.
CAUTION: Do not overtighten the water-line fitting or
damage will result.
Winterizing Thetford Freshwater Toilets The water-supply
line can be drained by propping open the slide valve
ing a soft-drink bottle or like object to hold the valve
open. Attach a cord or wire to keep object from falling
pressed air or fill the lines with nontoxic antifreeze.
If you are using antifreeze, open the toilet valve un-
til the antifreeze flows constantly. (See Winterizing
the Water System, page 3.35).
CAUTION: If compressed air is used to purge the water from the RV
system, the toilet valve must be held in the open position. Do not attempt
4.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 4.3 Thetford Aqua-Magic freshwater toilet (exploded view)

 CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.5

Figure 4.4 Thetford Aqua-Magic Galaxy freshwater toilet (exploded view)

4.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE THETFORD AURORA, GALAXY, AND STARLITE TOILETS

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Water keeps running into bowl
Leaks
Harder than normal foot pedal or
Slide valve is not seated
Leaking water-supply line
Leaking vacuum breaker
Defective bowl-to-mechanism seal
Defective closet-flange-to-floor seal
Mounting bolts too tight
Restricted valve blade
Clean all foreign material in groove where
valve blade seats when closed
Tighten as necessary
Replace vacuum breaker; replace ball
valve if vacuum breaker leaks without
flushing
Replace seal
Tighten flange nuts,- remove toilet and
check flange height; adjust to 1/4 to 7/16
inch above floor; replace flange seal.
Check for overtight condition and adjust
sticking blade
Apply light film of silicone spray on blade
CAUTION: Do not use hydrocarbon-
based lubricants; damage to seals and
other surfaces can occur.

to flush the toilet if it contains ice. Doing so will
damage the toilet's internal valves.
Thetford Bravura
The Bravura toilet (Figure 4.5) features a simple one-
piece body with a removable front access panel to
allow entry to the mounting bolts and foot pedal
controls. The seat and cover are removable to aid in
cleaning. Another removable panel at the top rear of
the toilet allows access to the water control valve.
This lets you work on the water valve without re-
moving the toilet from it's mounting. The floor
mounting bolt pattern matches all previous Thetford
toilets. Removal and installation follow the proce-
dures for earlier models.
Thetford Aria
The Aria is a premium all electronic toilet from Thet-
ford (Figure 4.6). It uses microprocessor-controlled
dual-pulsating nozzles that clean the bowl at the
push of a button. The mounting bolts (to the floor)
are located outside the toilet body, the same as a
household toilet. The floor mounting system is dif-
ferent from other Thetford toilets, but the new mount-
ing flange is included with the unit. The seat and
cover are interchangeable with household toilet, and
attaches the same manner as a standard seat and lid.
To install the Aria:
1. Unpack and inspect the unit for damage.
2. Turn off the water supply to the toilet.
3. Remove the old toilet (including the closet
flange, the old seal and bolts).
4. Route a 12-volt DC power line to the area be-
hind the toilet. Use 14-gauge wire for distances
up to 20 feet from the power source. Use 12-
gauge wire for distances of 20 feet or greater
from the power source. The toilet comes with
a 4-amp slow-blow fuse. Always replace it with
another 4-amp fuse. If the toilet is wired to the
power distribution panel, use a 10-amp fuse or
breaker at the panel and the inline 4-amp slow-
blow fuse.
5. Install the new closet flange seal to the bottom
of the toilet.
6. Make sure that the top of the closet flange is
7/16-inch above the floor surface. Remove any
carpet and/or padding before installing the toi-
let. If the toilet is to be mounted on ceramic

tile, make sure the closet flange is 7/16-inch
inch above the tile. Drill 1/2-inch holes through
the tile only. Do not drill into the sub-flooring
wood.
7. Using a wrench, connect the water line to the
toilet.
8. Make the power line connection to the toilet.
The wires coming from the toilet are red for
positive and black for the negative.
9. Locate the toilet on the closet flange. Apply sil-
icone caulk to the closet flange before setting
the toilet. Do not install the screws yet. Center
the unit by opening the flapper valve by using
Figure 4.5 Thetford Bravura freshwater toilet
CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.7
the knob on the back of the toilet and look
down the hole. Center the bore of the toilet over
the pipe.
10. With the toilet in position, apply pressure to
set it into the silicone caulk. Use the mounting
bushing in the base of the toilet as a drill guide
and drill pilot holes into the floor with a 3/16-
inch drill bit.
11. After clearing the wood dust from the drilling,
mount the toilet to the floor with 1/4-inch x 3-
inch hex head screws. Tighten to approximately
20 to 23 inch-pounds. Do not over tighten.
Figure 4.6 Thetford Aria freshwater toilet
4.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

12. Turn on the water supply. Close the flush

blade by pressing once on the large flush but-
ton on the left rear of the toilet. The toilet
should flush and the valve will close.
13. If the toilet passes the flush test: Fill the toi-
let by pressing the small button until the wa-
ter reaches about one inch below the spray
nozzles. After the water has stood for 10 min-
utes inspect the area around the base and rear
of the toilet for leakage.

Troubleshooting. Leaks: Check the water-supply con-

nections at the back of the toilet, between the closet
flange and toilet. Make sure the screws are tight. If
Figure 4.7 Rear view of SeaLand Traveler toilet
the leak continues, remove the toilet and check the
showing vacuum breaker and water connection
flange height. Adjust if necessary to 7/16-inch above
the floor. Replace the flange seal if it is damaged.

Figure 4.8 SeaLand Traveler models 910 and 911 freshwater toilets (exploded view)

Poor Flush: A good flush should be obtained
within two to three seconds. If this is not the case,
remove the water supply line and check the flow rate.
It should be about the same as the rest of the house
line pressure and flow at least 10 quarts per minute.
Bowl will not hold water: Check for foreign ma-
terial caught in the valve blade groove down in the
flush drain.
SeaLand Traveler Freshwater Toilets
The SeaLand Traveler freshwater toilet is available in
several models (Figures 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, 4.10 and 4.11).
If the Traveler toilet needs to be removed to replace
a defective flange seal or to remodel the bathroom,
proceed with the following steps:
Replacing the SeaLand Traveler Freshwater Toilet
To remove and/or replace the SeaLand Traveler toi-
let, follow these steps:
1. Remove the shroud near the floor by reaching
behind the edges and pulling outward while
the shroud is pulled forward. Do not force;
the shroud should be removed with light
pressure.
2. Disconnect the water-supply line by loosen-
ing the 1/2-inch fittings.
3. Remove the four flange nuts.
4. Lift and remove the toilet.
5. Reverse this order to reinstall. Use a new flange
seal.
CAUTION: Do not overtighten the water-line fitting or dam-
age will result.
Winterizing the SeaLand Traveler Toilet
To winterize the SeaLand Traveler toilet, follow these
steps:
1. Clean and flush the toilet.
2. Turn off the water supply in the RV.
3. Remove the drain plug.
4. Remove the drain cap from the bottom of
the water valve in Models 910 and 510
CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.9
(Figure 4.12). Later model Travelers: Remove
inlet water line only.
5. Depress the flush lever until all water is
drained from the system. Blow out the lines
using compressed air or fill the lines with
nontoxic antifreeze. If you are using
antifreeze, open the toilet valve until the
antifreeze flows constantly. (See Winterizing
the Water System, page 3.35).
CAUTION: If compressed air is used to purge the water from
the RV system, the toilet valve must be held in the open position.
Do not attempt to flush the toilet if it contains ice. Doing so will
damage the toilet's internal valves.
Microphor Microflush Toilets
The Microphor Microflush freshwater toilet is usu-
ally found only in high-line coaches and trailers. The
toilet is similar in size and style to a home model,
but uses both water pressure and compressed air to
operate. Air pressure is used to expel wastewater over
the trapway to the holding tank. The compressed air
reduces water consumption by almost 90 percent.
Microphor toilets, when installed and adjusted prop-
erly, are rated to flush using only a half-gallon of wa-
ter.
The Microflush uses the following sequence to
flush (Figure 4.13): The handle is pressed, opening
a flapper valve and allowing the water in the bowl
to flow into the lower chamber. Clean water enters
from around the rim, washing the bowl. After a few
seconds, the flapper valve closes, and clean water
continues to flow into the bowl, ready for the next
use. After the flapper valve is closed, compressed
air is released into the lower chamber, forcing the
contents out the discharge line (Figure 4.14).
Adjusting the Microflush Toilet To adjust the Microflush
toilet, follow these steps (Figure 4.15):
1. Turn on water to the toilet.
2. Adjust the flapper cycle to five to seven sec-
onds by turning the flush-cycle timing adjust-
ment: to lengthen the cycle, turn the timing
adjustment clockwise: to shorten, turn coun-
terclockwise.
3. Adjust the water level in the bowl to the top
edge of the flapper opening by turning the wa-
ter-shutoff valve (angle stop) next to the toilet.
4.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

•TROUBLESHOOTING ■
M I C R O P H O R M I C R O F L U S H T O I L E T S

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Water drains from bowl Nicks or obstructions on Flapper seat Replace Flapper, Service Kit P/N 90066-3
Insufficient Flapper tension See Flapper Adjustment
Flapper seal worn or damaged Replace Flapper - Kit 90066-3
Water level too high Water level control out of adjustment Turn Level Adjustment 1/8 turn at a time
to raise or lower water level; Clockwise to
raise, Counterclockwise to lower.
Fluctuating water pressure Regulate water pressure
Timer malfunction Replace Timer - reference Timer Drawing
Water continues to run Obstruction in water Solenoid Valve Remove and inspect Solenoid Valve - see
Solenoid Valve Cleaning
Toilet continues to cycle after initial flush A cracked cam Replace Cam - reference Flapper
cycle is complete - or only partially cycles Adjustment Drawing
Defective Cam Switch; switch out of adjustment Adjust or replace Cam Switch - reference
FlapperAdjustment Drawing
Defective Timer Disconnect either purple wire at limit
switch. If toilet continues to cycle, the timer
is defective. If the toilet stops cycling, the
limit switch either is not adjusted properly
or is faulty.
Water leaking on floor The hopper has been jarred loose from the bowl Reseal Hopper - see Hopper
Removal/Reseal
Defective wax ring at toilet to floor connection Replace the wax ring
Loose water supply connection at toilet Disconnect water line to toilet, add Teflon
tape to threads, reconnect
No water Water turned off Turn water on
Water inlet filter screen clogged Clean wafer inlet filter screen
No power to valve Check for DC power at Solenoid Valve dur-
ing flush cycle
Defective Timer Check Timer operation - replace if necessary
Toilet doesn't activate No power Restore power
Tripped Circuit Breaker Reset Circuit Breaker Switch. Determine
cause of tripped breaker if possible before
operating toilet
Disconnected wires Check all wiring connections
Water is visible at Vacuum Breaker Insufficient lubrication; Worn vacuum Service Vacuum Breaker, Kit P/N 95037
when flushed breaker seal
 CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.11

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE T H E T F O R D E L E C T R A M A G I C R E C I R C U L A T I N G T O I L E T

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Toilet wobbles Closet flange too high; mounting surface
too high
Flush action too weak or noisy Pump running backward
Cycling without sufficient water
Pump damaged by continuous dry operation
Check by laying straightedge across flange
and measuring gap to floor at four leg
locations; height should be 1/4 to 7/16 inch.
Check wire polarity: black is positive,
white is negative
Charge with 3 gallons of water or to
charge-level-indicator lens
Replace pump assembly

Figure 4.9 SeaLand Traveler models 510 and 511 freshwater toilets (exploded view)
4.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 4.10 SeaLand Traveler freshwater toilet base (exploded view)
Cleaning the Microflush Toilet To properly clean
the Microflush toilet, follow these steps:
1. Depress the flush activator, turn off water,
and allow bowl cleaner to flow to the lower
chamber while the activator continues to be
depressed. Any liquid toilet-bowl cleaner is
acceptable. Do not use caustic drain open-
ers.
2. Insert a bowl brush into the lower chamber
and agitate.
3. Remove the brush and release the flush
activator.
4. Turn on water and flush twice to rinse
thoroughly.
Routine Maintenance of Microflush Toilet Water
pressure should be maintained at levels below 50 psi.
Air pressure should be regulated at 60 psi. The air-op-
erated flush valve requires lubrication every five
years. The Microflush toilet becomes more com-
plicated when installed in RVs. Internal repairs and
adjustments other than those detailed here should
be performed by an authorized service center.
Headhunter Royal Flush Toilet
The Royal Flush toilet, uses a high-pressure venturi
effect coupled with low water volume and high wa-
ter pressure, eliminating the need for flapper or ball
valves in the bottom of the toilet bowl. Water jets are
used to macerate the sewage in the bowl and carry it
over a siphon-breaker into the holding tank (Figures
4.16 and 4.17). It also eliminates the need for vac-
uum or high-pressure air.
Four quarts of water per flush are used to push
the wastes horizontally or vertically without the need
for a separate pump, allowing the toilet to be
mounted in other locations rather than directly over
the black tank.
Installation Water supply to and from the pump needs
to be a one-inch wire-wound hose or Schedule 40
PVC. All bends and curves are done with Drain Waste
Vent (DWV), swept fittings, such as DWV swept 90
or DWV swept 45. Working pressure of the pipe or
hose must be 50 psi minimum. The vented loop
needs to be 1-inch above the rim of the toilet and
no more then 32-inches above the floor. Use ether
1-1/2-inch PVC pipe or 1-7/8 wire-wound hose after
the vented loop for discharge to the black tank.
 CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.13

Place the bowl in the position where it will be

mounted. Dry fit all the components to ensure lengths
and fit. Do not glue them at this time. Trace the out-
line of the bowl mounting and the discharge pipe
on the floor. Cut the holes for the water entry and
discharge pipes. There is no wax or rubber seal ring
so the toilet only needs to be fitted to the pipes.
A swing check valve is used to prevent "burping"
the sewage back up the toilet bowl. The valve must
be placed into the line ether before or after the ver-
tical loop, as close to the toilet as possible. The ideal
location is to have the valve glued directly on to the
toilet's base assembly.
Horizontal discharge pipes must have a down-
ward gradient of 1/8-inch per foot.

Figure 4.11 SeaLand Model 2010 freshwater

toilet.
Figure 4.12 Location of the water valve drain cap
in the SeaLand Traveler freshwater toilet.

When the handle is pressed, the
flapper valve opens, allowing
the water in the bow! to flow
into the lower chamber. Clean
water enters from around the
rim, thoroughly washing the
bowl.
After a few seconds, the flapper
valve closes. Clean water
continues to flow into the bowl,
where water remains until the
next flush.
When the flapper valve has
closed, compressed air is released
into the lower chamber, forcing
the contents out through the
discharge line. Models are
available for either rear or
downward discharge.

Figure 4.13 Microphor Microflush freshwater toilets use compressed air and water pressure to complete the
flushing cycle.
4.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 4.14 Microphor Microflush freshwater toilet (exploded view)


Figure 4.15 The flush cycle in the Microphor
Microflush is controlled by the timing adjustment
under the toilet lid.
Figure 4.16 Headhunter Rear Discharge installation details
CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.15
Electrical wiring An electric-solenoid valve and a time-
delay module are used for flush activation. The de-
lay module is the small black rectangular box located
in the base of the toilet. It has four wires; two are fac-
tory attached to the flush push button. The other two
14-gauge wires are a red, which are attached to a pos-
itive lead in the RV through a 5-amp fuse or circuit
breaker; the black wire is connected to ground. The
delay module is polarity-sensitive—if the wires are
reversed, the toilet will flush continuously. The elec-
tric valve should be located as close to the toilet as
possible in the water supply line
Once the pipes are correctly in place and sized,
they must be glued together. Start with the pipes far-
thest away from the toilet and work toward it. After
all the plumbing is completed, use the base of the
toilet as a drill guide for 1/8-inch holes. After this
pre-drilling, install the 1/4-inch x 2-1/4 inch stain-
less steel lag screws and attach beauty caps to the
screw heads.
4.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
System startup Before using the Royal Flush toilet for
the first time make the following checks and ad-
justments:
■ Check all plumbing connections for leaks.
■ Make sure the freshwater inlet valve is open.
■ Make sure the water pump is primed.
■ The pressure pre-charge of the accumulator
should be adjusted to 4 psi below the pump cut-in
pressure, about 20 psi.
■ The pump cut-in pressure is set at a mini-
mum of 30 psi.
■ Close the rim-feed valve at the back of the
toilet.
■ Turn on the 12-volt DC power and check all
breakers.
After starting, make the following adjustments:
■ Flush the toilet until all air has been purged
Figure 4.17 Headhunter bottom discharge installation details
out of the system.
■ Check the entire plumbing system for leaks
■ Adjust the flush cycle time. The cycle is ad-
justed by turning the blue trip pot located on the
time delay module. Clockwise rotation will
lengthen the cycle and counterclockwise will
shorten it. The cycle time should be approximately
four seconds.
■ Adjust the rim feed to the desired water level
by opening the rim feed valve at the back of the
toilet. A higher rim feed will allow a higher water
level in the bowl, but will reduce the power of the
flushing action.
Maintenance Since there are no moving parts in the
Royal Flush toilet, the maintenance is limited to clean-
ing, although regular checks of the plumbing system
should be made.

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE R O Y A L F L U S H T O I L E T
Problem Probably Cause
Toilet will not flush Isolation valve closed
System not pressurized
No power to the time-delay switch
Toilet flushes continuously Time-delay switch wired backwards
Debris stuck on flush valve
diaphragms
Bowl fills up while flushing Holding tank full
Holding tank not adequately ventilated
Blockage in discharge plumbing
Blockage in water supply plumbing
System pressure too low
Debris stuck in jet macerafor
Bowl fills up when not Debris stuck on flush valve seat
flushing (Check inlet strainers, clean and
replace baskets, if necessary.
Pump cycles to frequently Accumulator tank bladder ruptured
Accumulator air pressure too high
Pressure switch set incorrectly
Pump inlet check valve stuck open
Water will not stay in bowl Vented loop missing or installed too
low
■ THE RECIRCULATING TOILET ■
Thetford Electro Magic Toilet
A recirculating toilet (Figure 4.18) requires no pres-
sure-water connection or holding tank. This type of
toilet uses a 12-volt DC pump and a system of filters
to recirculate the contents. The liquid portion is sep-
arated from the solid contents and is used to com-
plete the flushing cycle. When the contents fill the
internal holding tank, the toilet must be dumped by
use of a 3-inch termination valve, similar to those
used to dump holding tanks. A holding tank can
be installed to increase toilet capacity.
Replacing the Electra Magic Toilet Fuse To replace a
fuse in the Thetford Electra Magic toilet, follow
these steps:
CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.17
1. Remove the two cover-mounting screws and
motor cover.
2. Check the fuse with a multimeter.
3. Replace if detective.
Replacing the Electra Magic Toilet Switch To replace
the Electra Magic toilet switch, follow these steps:
1. Disconnect the lead wires from the power
source.
2. Remove the two cover-mounting screws and
the motor cover.
3. Remove the switch-retaining nut and remove
the wires from switch terminals.
4. Check with a multimeter.
5. Replace if defective.
Replacing the Electra Magic Toilet Pump To replace
the Electra Magic toilet pump, follow these steps:
1. Disconnect the lead wires from the power
source.
2. Remove the two cover-mounting screws and
the motor cover.
3. Remove the cover and bowl-assembly screws
in the rear from the top side and the two
screws from the bottom side; remove the
cover and bowl assembly.
4. Remove the four pump-mounting screws.
5. Disconnect the flush tube from the pump
outlet.
6. Remove the pump assembly.
7. Replace if defective.
Replacing the Electra Magic Slide-EZ Valve To
replace the Electra Magic Slide-EZ Valve, follow
these steps (Figure 4.19):
1. Disconnect the lead wires from the power
source.
2. Empty the toilet completely.
3. Remove the cotter pin and the extension
handle, if so equipped.
4. Remove the two molding-mounting screws
and remove the two base moldings.
4.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 4.18 Thetford Electro Magic recirculating toilet (exploded view)


Figure 4.19 Thetford Electra Magic recirculating
toilet Slide-EZ Valve
5. Remove the slides by catching tabs with a
hooked instrument and pulling forward.
6. Lift the toilet from the closet flange and
invert unit.
7. Remove the four screws and remove the valve.
8. Replace if defective.
Cleaning the Electra Magic Toilet The bowl
and outside of the Electra Magic toilet can be cleaned
using the same type of nonabrasive cleaners speci-
fied for freshwater toilets. For cleaning the tank,
use Thetford's Aqua Bowl or diluted household
laundry detergent (2 to 4 ounces to 1 gallon
of water).
Winterizing and Storing the Electra Magic Toilet
To winterize the Electra Magic Toilet, follow these
steps:
1. Completely empty the unit via the termina-
tion valve.
2. Refill the unit to the bottom of the bowl with
fresh water.
3. Add 8 ounces (1 cup) of Aqua Bowl or a
CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.19
diluted solution of laundry detergent.
4. Cycle three times by depressing the flush but-
ton for ten seconds each cycle.
5. Let stand for a few minutes.
6. Completely empty unit via the termination
valve.
7. Add one-half charge with nontoxic RV
antifreeze.
Maintaining the Portable Toilet
Portable Toilets
Portable toilets are used in smaller RVs that are not
equipped with holding tanks and the appropriate
plumbing. This type of toilet is commonly found in
folding trailers or in truck campers that are not self-
contained. Portable toilets are very simple to use and
can be dumped into a conventional toilet, pit toilet,
or at a dump station. Most portables are comprised
of two pieces: a top half consisting of a bowl, a seat,
and a freshwater reservoir, and a bottom half con-
taining the slider valve and handle, the waste-hold-
ing tank, and an evacuation tube. Various models
offer larger holding tanks (Figure 4.20). Cassette-
style portable toilets offer built-in convenience with
portable versatility (Figure 4.21).
Other than periodic cleaning, the only mainte-
nance needed is to keep the slider valve and seal clean
of debris. The holding tank should be thoroughly
rinsed before storing the toilet. To winterize, simply
add propylene glycol-type antifreeze to the freshwa-
ter holding tank.
■ HOLDING TANKS, DRAINPIPES, ■
AND VENT PIPES
Self-contained RVs have a system of plastic pipes that
allow the sinks, the shower, and the toilet to drain
into holding tanks. In most RVs, the shower and sinks
drain into one holding tank, and the toilet waste is
routed into a separate holding tank. The drain wa-
ter goes into a gray-water holding tank, and toilet
wastes end up in the black-water holding tank. Toi-
let-waste holding tanks can also be referred to as
sewer or waste tanks (Figure 4.22).
Both holding tanks terminate at a 3-inch dump
4.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 4.20 The Thetford Porto-Potti portable toilet (exploded view)

valve usually located under the motorhome or trailer
or in compartments on the left side, within 16 feet
of the rear bumper (Figure 4.23). Although only one
dump valve is the norm, some coaches use two dump
valves. The contents from each tank are separated by
individual slide valves. A typical RV system will have
a section of 3-inch pipe from the black-water holding
tank connected to a 3-inch slider valve and the main
dump connection. 1-1/2-inch pipe with a separate slide
valve will be routed from the gray-water holding tank
to the main slider valve. The plumbing is set up so that
the valves can be used independently.
 CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.21

Figure 4.21 Thetford cassette-style portable toilet (exploded view)

4.22 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Dumping the Holding Tank
The main dump valve is fitted with extruded pins
that allow the attachment of a flexible sewer hose.
The hose is then routed to a 4-inch pipe in a dump
station or campsite hookup. To properly dump the
holding tanks, the black water should be evacuated
first. After the black-water tank finishes draining, the
gray-water tank should be emptied. This allows the
gray water to rinse the hose. Make sure the smaller
slide valve is closed when draining the black-water
holding tank so that waste material cannot be forced
into the gray-water plumbing.
When hooked up to a campsite sewer, the black-
water valve should remain closed until the tank is at
least three-quarters full. The tank cannot be flushed
properly unless there is a sufficient amount of liq-
uid material to gravity-flow from the tank. Clogging
of the termination valve can result if an insufficient
amount of liquid waste is flushed.
To make sure that the black tank has been com-
pletely emptied, you may want to use one of the sev-
eral tank-cleaning tools on the market. Some of these
tools are spray wands that you attach to a nondrinking
water hose. You place the spray wand through the
opening in the bottom of the toilet, and the spray

Figure 4.22 RVs are equipped with two holding tanks: One for collecting gray water from the sinks and
shower and the other for storing waste from the toilet. Dump valves are used to control removal of contents
from the individual tanks.

Figure 4.23 Holding tanks terminate at a 3-inch
exit pipe that is fitted with a 3-inch slide valve for the
black-water tank and a 1-1/2 inch slide valve for the
gray-water tank.
head insures that the water reaches all areas of the
tank to completely rinse it free of sewage. Another
method is to have fresh water spray heads installed
into the black-water tank. You connect a nondrink-
ing water hose to the sprayer connection, and the
water pressure from the sprayers insure the tank is
rinsed free of sewage.
IMPORTANT: Never use a drinking-water hose to flush your black-
or gray-water tanks. Dedicate a green or black garden hose to this task.
Always use an anti-backflush valve on the hose to insure that water
does not go back up into the water-supply hose attached to your sprayers.
Normally only a couple of holding-tank rinses are
needed before storing the RV, however, after pro-
longed use it may be necessary to clean the tank with
a holding-tank cleaner and fresh water. This proce-
dure requires a warm day with the temperature at
least 75 °F. Fill the black-water tank to the appro-
priate level of fresh water, depending on the tank-
cleaner directions, and then add the chemicals. Drive
or tow the RV for about one hour and then park it
for a twenty-four-hour period. After the twenty-four
hours, drive the RV for about one hour to loosen de-
posits, and then go to a dump site and empty the
tank. Holding-tank cleaners are available in most RV
supply stores.
CAUTION: Do not use household detergents or cleaning compounds
when cleaning holding tanks. These may contain chemicals that could
damage the drain system or termination valves; cleaners that contain pe-
troleum distillates can damage toilet seals and termination valves.
CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.23
Drain Master RV Automatic Waste Valve
Installation of the Drain Master valve requires access
to a 12-volt DC power source and simple hand tools.
Installation
Completely drain and flush the tank.
Replacement of a 3-inch valve (Figure 4.24) is a
bolt-on installation. NOTE: The motor of the Drain Master must
be mounted up (be able to read the lettering on the housing).
Remove the old valve by taking out the four screws,
one in each corner.
Separate the old fitting enough to remove the old
valve and remove the two seals from the pipe flanges
or from the manual valve.
Clean the pipe flanges. Check for cracks and re-
place the flange if necessary.
Remove the caution card from the Drain Master
valve. Mount the blue seals into the new valve. The
seals should fit snugly enough that they won't fall
out if the valve is turned over. If they don't fit prop-
erly, remove the seals and stretch them until they
fit the valve properly
Lubricate the new seals with a liberal coat of wa-
terproof grease. Separate the pipe flanges and insert
the Drain Master into the gap. Ensure that the blue
seals remain in place during this process. Rotate the
valve to align the four bolt holes with the flange holes
and insert the four new bolts and nuts.
IMPORTANT: Make sure that you can access the manual operation
screw in case there is a power failure.
Install the four bolts and hand tighten using a
7/16-inch wrench in a cross pattern, tightening a
quarter turn at a time. Care must be taken not to over-
tighten and crack the plastic components.
Replacing a 2-inch or a 1-1/2- inch valve requires
a reducer adapter. Remove the old valve and cut the
pipe so there is a 4-1/2-inch gap. Slide the reducer
adapters over the pipe and glue them into place. Fit
the new valve into the space between the adapter
flanges and bolt them together using the 7/16-inch
bolts.
Wiring
The Drain Master valve is operated using 12-volt-
4.24 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
DC power controlled by a switch located near the
valve (Figure 4.25). Place the switch in a convenient
location and connect the four wires. The black wire
goes to a positive (+) power lead through a 5-amp
fuse; the green wire goes to ground. The 22 AGW
wires from the switch are butt-connected to the same-
color leads from the valve housing. If the wire con-
nections are longer than five feet, use 14 AWG wire.
Figure 4.24 Drain Master electric dump valve
Figure 4.25 Drain Master electric dump valve wiring
Troubleshooting:
If the unit does not operate when the switch is en-
gaged, check the fuse and wiring connections. The
normal rate of operation is one second to open and
close.
If the valve drags during the opening and clos-
ing cycle, make sure the four bolts holding the unit

to the pipe have not been over tightened. Over tight-
ening these bolts can actually stop the valve from
operating.
If you lose 12-volt DC power in your RV you can
operate the valve manually with a standard flat blade
screwdriver. This screw is clearly stamped into the
valve housing. There will some resistance to turning
the shaft because of the safety clutch inside the valve.
Turn the shaft until it fully stops.
Macerator Pumps
There are times when your holding tanks will be full
and you may not have access to a standard dump
site. Quite often you will be able to find a sewer-
cleanout port in gas stations or other public service
areas. After getting permission from the owner or
manager of the site, you can use a macerator pump
and hose to empty your full tanks. Macerator pumps
are designed to aid in emptying a holding tank by
grinding waste down to a particle size no larger than
1/8 inch and pushing it out a 1-inch discharge hose.
This pump can handle body wastes, toilet tissue, and
facial tissue, but not hard, solid objects, sanitary nap-
kins, or rags. The Jabsco Par macerator pump, for ex-
Figure 4.26 Jabsco Par macerator pump (exploded view)
CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.25
ample, will empty a typical 30-gallon waste-holding
tank in three minutes (Figure 4.26).
A macerator pump will perform properly if the
following recommendations are followed:
■ Flush the holding tank with several gallons of
water after each pumpout.
■ Do not run the motor dry.
■ Operate the pump only when the battery
is fully charged or outside hookups are
available.
■ Do not run the motor for more than fifteen
minutes in continuous duty.
■ Be sure the pump is wired with 10-gauge wire
for distances up to 20 feet and 12-gauge wire
for distances under 10 feet. Use a 20-amp fuse.
NOTE: After long periods of nonuse, the pump may not turn
freely. Pour a cup of water down the pump discharge line to help
free the impeller.
Replacing the Seal, Impeller, and
Gasket in the Par Macerator Pump
To replace the seal, impeller, and gasket in the Par
Macerator pump, follow these steps:
4.26 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

1. Remove the acorn nuts and the inlet time to cover the crack or break. The key to using gap-
housing. filling cyanoacrylate adhesive is the accelerator com-
2. Unscrew the cutter plate from the shaft by pound that will instantly set the glue (Figure 4.28).
turning the facing cutter blades counter- The owner has enough time to saturate the fiberglass
clockwise. Hold the motor shaft behind the cloth, position it over the break, and then zap it with
plate to prevent turning. accelerator to instantly set the glue. Use the follow-
3. Remove the gaskets, the wearplate, and the ing steps to fix a holding-tank break.
slide-pump assembly from the mounting
studs. 1. Empty the holding tank and, when dry, clean
4. Remove the seal by pushing out evenly with the area around the damage.
a screwdriver from the impeller-bore side of 2. Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth a couple of
the body. inches larger than the damaged area.
5. Remove the gasket and the impeller. 3. Saturate the fiberglass cloth with the cyano-
6. Replace with the new gasket and the acrylate adhesive.
impeller.
7. Reassemble the seal by coating the outside
of the metal case lightly with sealant and
pressing into the body with the lip facing
the impeller.
8. Press the star retaining washer (with con-
cave side up) into the seal bore and against
the seal case.
9. Apply light coating of grease to the impeller
bore and wearplate to aid in initial startup.
10. Reassemble the body the impeller, the gas-
kets, the wearplate, the housing, and the
acorn nuts.

Repairing the Holding Tank

Holding-tank leaks are a messy proposition. Most Figure 4.27 A crack in the holding tank can
holding tanks are made from black ABS, which is be stopped by drilling holes at each end of the
very durable. But holes and breaks can be caused damaged area.
by flying rocks or by dragging on steep driveways and
rough terrain. If a crack develops, the ends of the
crack should be drilled to keep the crack from get-
ting any longer before repairing (Figure 4.27).
Obviously, holes or cracks that are too large can-
not be repaired, and the holding tank must be re-
placed. Smaller holes and cracks can be repaired using
a commercially available patch kit, such as the Syon
Seal-N-Place kit. (See the step-by-step instructions
that follow, "Repairing Polyethylene Tanks.") Another
good method is to use fiberglass cloth and a gap-fill-
ing cyanoacrylate adhesive, found in most hobby
shops. This glue is similar to Super Glue but is much
thicker and takes longer to set—sometimes as long Figure 4.28 Cyanoacrylate adhesive, found in
as two minutes. The thicker adhesive allows adequate most hobby stores, can be used to fix holding tanks.

4. Place the saturated fiberglass cloth over the
damaged area. Smooth out with your hands
(use disposable gloves for this job).
5. When the fiberglass is in position and
smooth, zap the area with the accelerator.
The fiberglass cloth and adhesive will bond
instantly to the damaged area.
The preceding procedure can be used to make
emergency repairs to ABS pipes, tanks, or exterior
fiberglass.
Repairing Polyethylene Tanks
Polyethylene tanks (translucent) can be repaired with
a commercially available kit, Syon Seal-N-Place, or
by "welding" (heat). The welding process is more
complicated and requires specialized equipment and
the expertise available at larger RV repair shops.
The Seal-N-Place kit (Figure 4.29) is designed for
permanent repairs but must be used quickly because
the resin mixture begins to harden in six to eight
minutes. The resin is cured in twenty minutes. The
resin can be used in temperatures down to 300 F. Al-
low yourself five minutes to make the repair after
mixing the material so that you will have a slight
time cushion before the resin hardens. Repairs can
be made using the Seal-N-Place kit and following
these procedures:
1. Remove grease, road dirt, tar, and any oil
from the repair surface.
2. Rough up the surface with the sandpaper.
3. Cut enough of the fiberglass cloth to overlap
the damaged area.
4. Break off the tip on the metal tube within the
plastic bag holding the resin.
5. Using the key over the metal tube, empty the
hardener from the tube into the plastic bag.
6. Knead the plastic bag until the resin and
hardener are thoroughly mixed (approxi-
mately twenty seconds).
7. Brush a layer of resin over the area to be
covered by the fiberglass.
8. Lay the cut fiberglass over the resin-coated
area.
9. Brush on a heavy coat of resin over the fiber-
glass until it is completely saturated. Flare
CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.27
Figure 4.29 Repairing a crack with the Seal-N-
Place kit.
out the edges of the resin.
NOTE: Seal-N-Place kits can also be used for repairing ABS,
polypropylene, and other plastic surfaces.
Toilet Chemicals
Unlike home sewage that drains into a large under-
ground septic system or a city sewer, the waste in RV
holding tanks remains in close proximity to the liv-
ing quarters. To eliminate offensive odors, chemicals
must be used in the black-water holding tank. Nor-
mally the tank is charged with a dose of toilet chem-
icals after dumping. But during hot summer days,
additional chemicals may be necessary. Products are
also available to freshen gray-water holding tanks.
Many municipalities require that biodegradable
chemicals, devoid of formaldehyde, be used. There-
fore, a wide variety of environmentally safe chemicals
is available. There are many home remedies that have
surfaced during evening campfire conversations, but
some of these household products may damage the
toilet seals, plumbing, or termination valves. Home-
brew chemicals can also cause an explosion inside the
tank under certain conditions. It is always safer to use
a commercially available toilet chemical.
Although it is not absolutely necessary, it is ad-
visable to use single-ply, white toilet paper in all
RV toilets. Not only is the bulk limited because the
paper is thin, but it also tends to break down faster,
which is easier on the plumbing system, especially
the termination valves.
4.28 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Drainpipes

An RV's plumbing system, which drains the water from

the sinks and shower, is comprised of a series of black
ABS pipes, configured much the same as a home sys-
tem. Pipes fitted to the sinks and shower are routed
to nearby P-traps and then on to the holding tanks.
P-traps are U-shaped curves in the pipe that allow
columns of water to remain temporarily trapped un-
til the next amount of water is drained. This column
of water prevents the gases in the holding tank from Figure 4.31 Metal vent-pipe cups will last longer.
backing up into the sinks and shower, preventing nasty
smells from entering the living quarters. Traps can be- twisted off, and a new one attached. If the valve is
come clogged with accumulated hair, grease, and other ABS-cemented to the pipe, it must be cut and a new
small food particles. To break a clog, hot water can be valve installed, using appropriate couplers.
flushed down the drain. If this does not work, the
P-trap can be dismantled by unscrewing the fittings
on each end. Do not use sharp objects to free a clog, Vent Pipes
or damage to the pipe may result.
Pipes made of ABS are usually hardy enough to In order for the waste water and sewage to flow prop-
last the life of the RV. Occasionally, a leak will de- erly, the holding tanks must be vented, usually to the
velop or a break will be caused by a heavy item that outside, terminating on the roof. The vent covers should
has fallen on the pipe. Repairing or rerouting is fairly be inspected once a year, or after making contact with
easy, requiring only a hacksaw, new ABS pipe sec- low tree branches or other low obstacles. Usually, the
tions, connectors, and ABS cement to dissolve the vent pipes are covered with plastic caps that snap onto
surfaces of the pipes to be connected, allowing two the roof fixture (Figure 4.30). If the base is in good
sections to be welded together. The cementing process shape, all you have to do is replace the cap. If the en-
is fast and requires forethought and organization be- tire fixture must be replaced, consider using a metal
fore proceeding. counterpart (Figure 4.31). These metal fixtures cost only
Slide valves usually must be replaced if a jam or
break develops. This is also an easy process since ter-
mination valves are universal and often are only at-
tached to the pipe with large hose clamps. If that is
the case, the hose clamp can be removed, the valve

Figure 4.30 Vent pipes are covered with plastic Figure 4.32 Properly installed vent pipe in typical
caps that snap onto the fixture. black-water tank set-up

Figure 4.33 Improperly installed vent pipe in
holding tank. Note how far the pipe intrudes into
the tank.
Figure 4.34 Ultra-Heat 12-volt DC and 120-volt AC holding tank heater
CHAPTER 4 Sanitation Systems 4.29
a few dollars more, but will last much longer.
Make sure the roof vents are kept free of debris. If
necessary, use a long stick or broom handle to clear
the passageway. Failure to keep the vent pipes clear
may create foul odors throughout the RV.
Toilets that Spit Back
If the toilet spits back when flushed, the vent pipe
may be too long. Using a flashlight, inspect the in-
side of the holding tank. Look for a pipe that pro-
trudes into the holding tank. If the pipe is too long
and becomes covered by the tank contents, it will fail
to vent properly. You may have to remove the toilet
for access, or peer through the dump valve (Figures
4.32 and 4.33).
Repairing a Long Vent Pipe
To repair a vent pipe that is too long:
1. Establish access after either removing the
4.30 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
toilet or opening the dump valve. If you are
using the dump valve for access, make sure
the holding tank is empty and cleaned
thoroughly.
2. Affix a hacksaw blade to any object that
allows the protruding pipe to be reached.
3. Cut off the excess pipe to a point just below
the top of the holding tank.
4. Replace the toilet, using a new flange gasket
or close the dump valve.
5. Flush the tank with water to remove any
plastic shavings.
Tank Heaters
Tank heaters for RVs are designed to provide low-
level heat directly to holding tanks, pipes and elbows
keeping them from freezing in extremely cold
weather. Although tank heaters sometimes come fac-
tory installed, in most cases they are installed by
RV owners.
Tank heaters (Figure 4.34) are available in several
sizes to fit almost all tanks. It's also important to pro-
tect exposed elbows and pipes. Elbows and pipes are
Figure 4.35 Ultra-Heat 12-volt DC hose heater
usually the first to freeze and should be protected by
heat tape or hose heaters (Figure 4.35).
When using thermostatically controlled pads,
make sure the rig is hooked to 120-volt AC power or
that they are turned off when the RV is in storage.
Failure to do so, can discharge the house batteries.
To install a single tank heating pad first clean
the surface of the holding tank with isopropyl alco-
hol and allow it to surface dry. Place the heater on
the lowest point of the holding tank. The heater must
lie perfectly flat on the surface of the tank. Press down
against the tank heater, there must be no gaps on the
edges. Use 14-gauge wire when installing the system.
Another type of heater is the dual voltage system.
This type of pad can be operated on 12-volt DC or
120-volt AC power. These units come in "automatic"
with a thermostat and manual with switch.
Pipe and elbow heater sections usually come in
3-inch and 1-1/2-inch sizes. If you have 1/2-inch
pipes that are exposed under the RV, you may want
to protect them with a special 12-volt DC heater strip.
This strip may be wrapped completely around the
pipe (or a water hose) like a bun around a hot dog.
These pipes should then be protected for foam pipe
insulation and secured with duct tape.
 ■ CHAPTER 5 ■

AC GENERATORS

Table 5.1 AC-Generator Generic Maintenance

AC generators, the types found on RVs, are com-
Schedule
pact power plants designed to provide 120-
50 100 500
volt, 60-cycle-per-second alternating current to Startup Hours Hours Hours
household-type appliances when outside hookups Check RV battery X
are not available. AC generators are either single- or Check oil level X

multi-cylinder, 4-cycle engines powered by gasoline, Check fuel supply X

propane, or diesel fuel. Check air inlet

AC generators are sized and classified by the and outlet X

Check compartment
amount of power they are able to produce, expressed
for debris X
in kilowatts (thousands of watts). Those for RVs range Check air cleaner X
from a 2.5-kw propane-powered unit (2.8 kw in the Lubricate governor
gasoline version) to large diesel-powered sets that linkage X

can produce up to 20 kw. Determining the type and Change oil X

power rating of your AC generator is easy. A name- Replace oil filter X

Clean fuel filter

plate affixed to the side of the unit contains the fol- X

Replace spark plug X

lowing information: model and serial number (both Check breaker points X
are necessary to order parts), AC voltage output, Check electrical
phase, kilowatts (sometimes expressed as KVA), am- connections X
pere rating, hertz (cycles per second), engine-gov- Check mounting bolts X

erned RPM, and type of fuel required. Adjust carburetor X

Check brushes X

Service cylinder heads X

■ MAINTENANCE OF AC GENERATORS ■ Service and Repair

It's important to keep the AC generator well main- Battery

tained, for optimum performance. Maintenance pro-
cedures and time intervals vary from manufacturer
to manufacturer. Make sure you refer to the owner's
manual for your particular generator and follow the
recommended procedures carefully. Refer to Table
5.1 as a generic maintenance schedule.
Without a fully-charged battery and clean, tight elec-
trical connections, starting the generator will be dif-
ficult or impossible. The battery electrolyte level
should be checked regularly and the cable terminals
and battery posts cleaned at least on a yearly basis.
5.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 5.1 Typical air-cooling paths for an RV AC generator
Removing Battery Corrosion
Follow these steps to remove battery corrosion:
1. Remove the terminals from the battery posts
using a battery-terminal puller if necessary.
2. Soak the terminals in a mixture of 1 quart
of water and 1/2 cup of baking soda.
3. Mix another quart of water and 1/2 cup baking
soda and pour over the battery top. (Allow
this mixture about five minutes to work).
Make sure that none of the battery-cell caps—
if so equipped—are open. If the baking-soda
mixture enters the cells, it will reduce the acid
strength, possibly damaging the cell.
4. Rinse the terminals and battery top with
clean water, then dry.
5. A battery post/terminal brush should be used
to thoroughly clean the inside of the terminal
fittings and the outside of the posts.
6. Use a light grease or commercially available ter-
minal protectant on the terminals and posts;
install terminals to posts and tighten firmly.
Cooling-System intake/Outlet
Check and clean the air-inlet screen. Cooling air is
drawn over the AC generator, then exits by passing over
the engine (Figure 5.1). Make sure there is no debris
such as leaves or paper that may block the flow of air.
For liquid-cooled generator units, check the radi-
ator for any signs of debris buildup. Airflow that is
blocked across the radiator will lead to overheating.
Liquid-cooled engines have a few more maintenance
requirements. The water pump and cooling fan are
driven by a fan belt. It should be inspected at regular
intervals. Look for signs of fraying cracks, or any other
abnormalities. The belt's tension should also be
checked and set to the AC-generator manufacturer's
recommendations. Experts usually recommend belt
replacement every three or four years, regardless of
the number of hours of operation.
The engine's ethylene glycol coolant should be
checked with a coolant hydrometer each year, to make
sure it offers enough freezing/boiling protection. At
a minimum, a 50-percent mix of coolant to water

Figure 5.2 High water-temperature shut-off switch
protects the engine in the event of a broken fan belt
or clogged radiator.
should be present in the system. This will offer freeze
protection to -34 °F. If colder temperatures are ex-
pected, the concentration can be increased to 70 per-
cent. The coolant should be drained and replaced
every other year.
CAUTION: Hot coolant and steam can cause severe burns. Before
removing the pressure cap, stop the engine and allow it to cool. Loosen
the cap slowly to relieve pressure.
Most liquid-cooled generators are fitted with a high
water-temperature shutdown switch (Figure 5.2). This
switch will shut down engine operation if the coolant
temperature exceeds 220°F to 2300F. This is to protect
the engine in the event of a clogged radiator, broken
fan belt, etc. Be aware that this switch is not a low-
coolant-level switch and coolant levels should be
checked regularly; proper level must be maintained for
these safety devices to function. If the engine is shut
down due to overheating, the cause of the heating prob-
lem must be rectified before the engine is restarted.
Crankcase-Oil Level
When checking the oil level (Figure 5.3), make sure
you follow the AC-generator manufacturer's rec-
ommendations. Kohler generators require that the
CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.3
Figure 5.3 The AC-generator oil level should be
checked at the outset of each trip.
level be checked with the oil cap resting on the oil-
shaft collar; do not thread the cap on. Onan requires
the opposite method: the cap should be screwed into
its fully seated position before reading the dipstick.
Generac requires that the oil be checked by remov-
ing the dipstick and wiping it dry with a clean cloth,
reinstalling the dipstick, and tightening it into the
fill tube, then removing it again to read the oil level.
If additional oil is needed, make sure you add the
correct viscosity and API (American Petroleum In-
stitute)- rated oil as recommended by the AC-gen-
erator manufacturer.
Most AC generators today are equipped with a low-
oil-pressure shutdown switch (Figure 5.4). This de-
vice will stop engine operation due to an oil pump
failure or other mechanical malfunction which af-
fects the oil pressure—such as a blown oil-filter gas-
ket. Be aware that this switch is not a low-oil-level
detection switch. You must regularly check the en-
gine-oil level visually on the dipstick.
Changing the Oil and Filter Most manufacturers recom-
mend that oil changes should be performed every
100 hours or once every twelve months. Drain the
oil while engine is warm, after running the genera-
tor at half load for thirty minutes.
To drain the oil and change the filter:
1. Stop the AC generator.
2. With the drain pan under the AC generator,
remove the drain plug if so equipped, or
open the drain valve (Figure 5.5). Drain the
oil completely and dispose of properly.
3. Remove the old oil filter (Figure 5.6).
5.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 5.6 Removing the oil filter should be part of

the oil-change maintenance program.

Figure 5.4 The low-oil-pressure switch prevents
engine damage by shutting off the engine if there is
a lack of oil pressure.
10. Record the hour-meter time of the oil
valve.
8. Refill the crankcase to the proper level with
the recommended grade and weight of oil
for the operational service temperature
expected.
9. Start the engine and run for a few minutes,
checking for leaks at filter base and drain
plug or valve. Re-check oil level.
change in a log to keep for future reference.

Setting Ignition Points and Timing

NOTE: Newer model gasoline or propane-powered AC generators

equipped with electronic ignitions require no periodic maintenance.
Most older AC generators can be fitted with an electronic conversion kit
to eliminate the conventional point-ignition system.
If your AC generator is equipped with a points-
type ignition, follow these steps:

Figure 5.5 A drain plug or petcock is used to
remove oil from the AC-generator.
4. Clean the filter base on the engine.
5. Wipe a film of clean oil onto the new filter's
gasket.
6. Screw a new filter to the base until the
gasket contacts, then tighten an additional
half-turn.
7. Replace the drain plug or close the drain
1. The battery cables, negative cable first, should
be removed to prevent accidental engine
startup during point-adjustment procedure.
2. The points are found under a sheet metal
cover on the engine block or governor
(Figure 5.7).
3. Point contact surfaces should be clean and
smooth. If points are rough and pitted, they
will require replacement.
4. Gap settings vary greatly, depending on the
make and model of the AC generator, but
generally are between .016 and .025 inch
 CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.5

Figure 5.7 Points for this Onan AC generator are

located under a box that is easily accessible.
Figure 5.8 Point gap for Kohler AC generators
should be set between .017 and .023 inch.
(Figures 5.8 and 5,9).
5. Point gap must be set with the points in their
fully open position. Using a wrench or
socket, rotate the engine by turning the AC 8. Tighten the hold-down screws, replace cover,
generator shaft until the points are fully and reconnect the negative battery terminal.
opened.
6. A clean, flat feeler gauge (Figure 5.10) of the
recommended thickness should be used to Air Cleaners
check the gap.
7. If the gap is incorrect, loosen the hold-down Virtually all AC generators use a pleated-paper air-
screws and move the stationary member of filter element (Figure 5.11) that requires service ap-
the points until the proper gap is attained. proximately every fifty hours; some may be backed

Figure 5.9 Point gap for Onan AC generators should be set at .025 inch.
5.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE AC G E N E R A T O R

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Will not start Low battery Charge or replace
Out of fuel Replenish
Bad battery connection Clean terminals
Clogged fuel filter Replace filter
Dirty air cleaner Clean or replace
Faulty ignition points Clean, adjust, replace
Worn or dirty spark plug Clean or replace
Faulty ignition coil Replace
Oil too heavy Replace with lighter grade
Stuck carburetor choke Clean and adjust
Blown starting-circuit fuse Check and replace
Fuel-shutdown solenoid Replace or remove
Hard to start Stale fuel Replace
Wrong carburetor adjustment Adjust
Incorrect point setting Adjust gap
Dirty air cleaner Replace
Worn spark plug Replace
Engine running too hot Check cooling system
Faulty fuel pump Replace
Engine runs, then stops Low fuel level Replenish supply
Low oil pressure Check/add oil
Oil level too high Check/remove oil
Wrong fuel mixture Adjust
Faulty spark plug Clean or replace
Clogged fuel filter Clean or replace
Fuel-shutdown solenoid Replace or remove
Emits black smoke Rich fuel mixture Adjust carburetor
Clogged air cleaner Replace element
Choke stuck closed Clean and adjust
Engine lacks power Clogged air cleaner Replace element
Rich fuel mixture Adjust carburetor
Overloaded engine Reduce electrical load
Bad or stale fuel Replenish with fresh fuel
Dirty or faulty sparkplug Clean or replace plug
Engine carbon buildup Service/remove carbon
Ignition points Adjust or replace points
Overheated engine Check cooling system
 CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.7

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE AC G E N E R A T O R , c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Engine surges Clogged air cleaner Clean or replace
Worn ignition points Replace
Worn spark plug Replace
Fuel starvation Check filter and pump
Incorrect carburetor adjustment Adjust
Stale fuel Replace with fresh fuel
Sticking linkage Clean and lubricate
Engine overheats Clogged airflow ducts Clean inlet and outlet
Carburetor mixture too lean Enrich mixture
Incorrect point adjustment Adjust
No AC current output Tripped circuit breaker Reset breaker
Breaker continues to trip Reduce load
Breaker still trips Short in wiring
Internal generator defect Seek professional service
Low AC output Engine speed too low Adjust carburetor or governor
Power overload Reduce load

Figure 5.11 Check the air filter often if you are

Figure 5.10 An automotive feeler gauge is used to operating in dusty areas; it needs to be checked on
set the point gap. a weekly basis or as specified by the AC generator
manufacturer.

with a foam filter (Figure 5.12). The element can

be cleaned after the first fifty hours by lightly tap- ement will occur. Replace the element every 100
ping it against a flat surface to dislodge any loose dirt hours, but if the AC generator is operated in extremely
and debris. Paper elements should not be washed in dusty or dirty environments, replace the element
any type of solvent solution since damage to the el- more often (Figure 5.13).
5.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Spark Plugs

Spark plugs should be replaced after approximately

100 hours of running time, or, if upon inspection,
they show signs of burning or deposits of carbon.
Spark plugs that show heavy, black-colored deposits
could indicate excessive oil consumption or a car-
buretor that is adjusted so the mixture is too rich.

Replacing Spark Plugs To replace spark plugs, follow

these steps:

1. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug

socket, either a 5/8 inch or 15/16 inch, depending
on the spark plug type.
2. Make sure that the gasket-seating surface of
Figure 5.12 Combined paper filter and foam the cylinder head is clean.
prefilter 3. Set the plug gap to .025 inch or as specified
by the manufacturer.

Figure 5.13 Paper air cleaner used on AC generator


Figure 5.14 AC-generator fuel pump
4. Tighten the spark plug carefully. AC generators
use an aluminum cylinder head and the threads
are prone to stripping if overtightened. If you are
using a torque wrench, tighten the plug to
10 to 15 foot-pounds.
Fuel Filters and Pumps
Gasoline-powered, AC-generator fuel pumps are ei-
ther solid-state, electrically operated by 12-volt DC
power (Figure 5.14), or are mechanically actuated
by an eccentric lobe on the engine's camshaft. Most
AC generators since the mid-1980s use the electric
system. These electric pumps cannot be serviced; only
the filter assembly may be replaced. The diaphragm
may be replaceable in mechanical pumps.
The fuel system in a diesel-powered AC generator
uses an injector pump to send fuel to the engine. Of-
ten, a small electric pump is also used to assist the
injector pump. Service of these pumps should only
be done by qualified technicians.
Diesel-fuel filters should be changed at approxi-
mately 250 hours. Most diesel AC generators have
two fuel filters. The first, or primary filter, may be ei-
ther a spin-on type or in-line plastic filter (Figure
5.15) designed to trap water, dirt, and metal parti-
cles before they get to the secondary or final filter.
Changing the spin-on diesel-fuel filter is easy, just
like changing a spin-on oil filter found in vehicle
engines.
CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5,9
Figure 5.15 An inline fuel filter is designed to trap
water, dirt, and metal particles.
Changing a Spin-on Filter To change a spin-on filter:
1. Loosen the filter by turning in a counter-
clockwise direction. Some fuel will spill out;
use rags to catch the excess. Discard the old
filter. Do not reuse.
2. Wipe the new filter's gasket surface clean.
3. Lightly lubricate the rubber gasket on the fil-
ter with some clean fuel or light motor oil.
4. Thread the filter on until the gasket contacts
the base; hand tighten an additional half-turn.
5. One additional step is required when open-
ing a diesel-fuel system; bleeding. If a diesel
engine runs out of fuel, has an air leak on the
suction side of the pump, or if you change
the filter, the system must be bled of all air.
Erratic operation and hard starting will result
if air remains in the fuel lines.
Bleeding the Diesel-Fuel System To bleed the diesel-fuel
system;
1. Make sure the fuel tank is filled.
2. Loosen the small bleeder valve on top of the
fuel-filter housing a couple of turns.
3. Using the start switch on the AC generator
controller, crank the engine over until air
stops flowing from the vent.
4. Tighten the fitting.
5. Loosen the fuel-line-inlet connection at the
fuel-injection pump. Operate the start switch
5.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
as above until bubbles disappear. Tighten the
connection.
The fuel system should now be purged of air and
operate normally.
Replacing the Fuel Filter (Gas Engines) To replace the
fuel filter:
1. The fuel filter is located in the suction line
between the tank and fuel pump.
2. Using a screwdriver, loosen the clamps.
Remove and discard the old filter.
3. Install the new filter in-line and tighten
clamp connections.
4. Start the engine and check for leaks and
normal operation.
Testing the Electric Pump To test the electric pump:
1. Remove the fuel-outlet line to the carburetor
and install a fuel-pressure gauge.
2. Press the start switch and hold until a pres-
sure reading is constant.
3. Check the specifications in the owner's manual
for the proper pressure output; usually the
pressure should read between 4 and 5 psi. Pres-
sure should stay constant or drop off slowly.
4. These pumps cannot be serviced; if the pump
fails to perform properly, the entire assembly
must be replaced.
Fuel-Shutdown Solenoid
Some manufacturers equip their carburetors with a
fuel-shutdown solenoid that prevents run-on (diesel-
ing) after the engine is shut down. The solenoid is
mounted on top of the carburetor and is energized
by battery current when starting the engine. When
the engine is shut down, the solenoid is de-energized,
dropping a plunger to stop fuel flow. If the solenoid
fails, fuel cannot reach the engine.
Bypassing the Solenoid To bypass the solenoid tem-
porarily, it can be removed, the plunger removed
from the body, and the solenoid reinstalled. Fol-
low these steps:
1. Turn the main fuel adjustment in until it bot-
toms.
2. Record the number of turns in.
3. Turn the main screw out far enough to shift
the solenoid retaining bracket.
4. Lift out the solenoid and remove the plunger.
5. Reinstall the solenoid and its retaining
bracket.
6. Turn the main fuel adjustment screw in until
it bottoms.
7. Back the screw out the recorded number of
turns.
8. Minor adjustments may have to be made in
the fuel mixture.
Carburetor Adjustments
There are three main carburetor adjustments: main fuel
mixture, idle fuel mixture, and the choke setting. Im-
proper carburetor adjustment can lead to serious en-
gine trouble. A mixture that is too rich can wash away
lubricating oil from the cylinder walls, causing accel-
erated piston-ring wear. A mixture that is too lean can
cause overheating and burned valves and pistons.
Main Fuel-Mixture (Kohler) The main fuel-mixture ad-
justment screw (Figure 5.16) is centered on top of
the carburetor, except for the 2.5-kw model, where
the screw is centered on the bottom.
For 2.5-kw Kohler AC Generators To adjust the 2.5-kw
Kohler AC generator:
1. Turn main mixture screw clockwise until it
lightly bottoms.
2. Back screw out 1-1/4 turns.
3. Minor adjustments may have to be made
with the engine running at full load to
achieve maximum power.
For all other Kohlers To adjust all other Kohlers:
1. Turn main fuel-mixture screw until it lightly
bottoms.

Figure 5.16 Typical carburetor adjustment points
for the Kohler AC generator
2. Back the screw out 2-1/4 turns.
3. With the engine thoroughly warmed up
and running under full-rated load, turn
the screw until the engine slows down
(lean setting).
4. Turn screw out (rich setting) until the engine
regains speed and then starts to slow down.
5. Turn screw back in until the position is
halfway between rich and lean.
6. Engine should operate with a steady, smooth
governor action.
Main Fuel-Mixture (Onan) Onan AC generators have the
main mixture adjustment screw centered on the bot-
tom of the carburetor (Figure 5.17). To adjust an
Onan follow these steps:
1. Start the AC generator and apply full-rated
load; run for ten minutes.
2. Connect a multimeter (voltage) to the AC
output.
3. Turn the adjustment screw inward until the
voltage drops.
4. Turn the screw outward until the voltage
drops again.
5. Locate the point where voltage is the highest.
From this setting turn the screw out an addi-
tional 1/4 turn.
The idle circuit of the carburetor only functions
CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.11
Figure 5.17 Typical carburetor adjustment points
for an Onan AC generator
as the engine comes up to speed through the idle
range and if there is no load on the AC generator.
1. Locate the idle screw on the upper side of the
carburetor.
2. Turn the screw in until it lightly bottoms.
3. Back the screw out 3/4turn.
4. No further adjustment is necessary.
Idle Fuel-Mixture Adjustment (All other Kohler Models)
For Kohler's other models, the screw is on the top of the
carburetor, offset from the center, and is slightly
smaller than the main adjustment screw.
1. Turn the screw in until it lightly bottoms.
2. Back out 1-1/2 turns.
3. No further adjustment is necessary.
Idle Fuel-Mixture Adjustment (Onan) To make the mixture
adjustment:
1. Run the AC generator until it is warmed up,
about ten minutes.
2. Remove all loads.
3. Connect a multimeter (voltage) to the AC
output.
4. Turn the screw inward until the voltage drops
5.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 5.18 Typical carburetor adjustment points
for an AC generator
and the engine begins to run roughly.
5. Back out the screw until the engine runs
smoothly without any surging.
6. Add and remove a full load several times to
make sure engine does not bog or surge.
Idle Fuel-Mixture Adjustment (Generac) For all vertical
and horizontal engine models (excluding automatlc-idle-
control models):
1. Turn the idle-mixture valve (Figure 5.18)
clockwise until it just seats. Do not force it.
2. Turn the idle-mixture valve counterclockwise
1-1/4 turns. This setting will permit the engine
to be started and operated.
NOTE: The Generac Automatic Idle Control System
requires several special tools and equipment and
is best left to an authorized Generac repair facility.
Carburetor Overhaul
Many carburetor problems can be corrected by ad-
justing the mixture or float, but to effectively clean
gummed-up fuel passages and/or worn internal parts,
a complete overhaul is necessary. The instructions
that follow for overhauling a carburetor pertain to
Onan's BGE model, but represent the same type of
service necessary for rebuilding carburetors found in
Figure 5.19 Exploded view of an AC-generator
carburetor.
most AC generators. Carburetors have very small parts
associated with their operation. These parts are eas-
ily lost or misplaced. If you are not completely fa-
miliar with working on such precision components,
it is best left to experienced technicians.
Carburetor Removal and Disassembly
To remove and disassemble the carburetor, follow
these steps (Figure 5.19):
1. Remove the crankcase breather hose and the
air preheater hose from the air-cleaner
housing.
2. Remove the air-cleaner-housing center cap
screw and lift off the housing and air filter.
3. Remove the choke-cover retaining nut and
lift off the choke cover.

Figure 5.20 Carburetor and intake manifold assembly in Onan AC generators
4. Disconnect the choke lead wires at the
choke terminals.
5. Remove the three cap screws that secure the
air-cleaner adapter to the carburetor and lift
off the adapter. The choke linkage must be
disengaged from the choke assembly.
6. Disconnect the fuel line and governor con-
trol linkage from the carburetor.
7. Remove the intake-manifold cap screws and
lift off the carburetor preheater. Lift off the
carburetor and manifold as one assembly.
8. Remove the two intake-manifold gaskets
and plug the intake ports with a rag to pre-
vent loose parts from entering ports.
9. Remove the two cap screws that secure the
carburetor and choke pulloff assembly to
the intake manifold. Disengage the choke-
pulloff linkage from the carburetor and
carefully separate the carburetor from the
intake manifold (Figure 5.20).
CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.13
10. Remove the air-cleaner adapter and the
automatic-choke assembly.
11. Remove the throttle and choke-plate retain-
ing screws and plates. Carefully pull out the
throttle and choke shafts, making sure not
to damage the Teflon coating.
12. Remove the main and idle-mixture screw
assemblies.
13. Separate the fuel bowl (lower section of the
carburetor) from the fuel-bowl cover (lower
section).
14. After noting the position of the float assem-
bly, slide out the retaining pin and remove
the float assembly, springs, clips, and the
needle valve.
15. Unscrew and remove the needle and the
valve seat.
16. Soak all metal parts in the carburetor cleaner
that are not replaced by the repair kit. Most
automotive-parts stores carry carburetor
5.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

throttle plate, using new screws (if supplied in

repair kit). The plate must be centered in the
bore before tightening. To center, back off the
throttle lever. Seat the plate by gently tapping
with a small screwdriver, then tighten screws.
2. Install the choke shaft and plate, using the
same procedure as in step 1.
3. Install the idle-mixture screw assembly. Turn
the screw in until it becomes lightly seated
and then out one turn, plus or minus 1/4 turn
for Onan, or the number of turns specified by
the AC-generator manufacturer. Do not force
the mixture-adjustment screw; overtightening
can damage the needle and seat.
Figure 5.21 The condition of the needle valve 4. Install the needle and seat, the fuel-bowl
should be checked when performing a carburetor gasket, and the float assembly (Figure 5.22).
overhaul. Make sure the clips and springs are properly
placed and the float can move freely.
5. Invert the float-and-needle valve assembly
cleaner in a can that has a wire basket. Make and check the float level between the float
sure not to soak nonmetal parts such as the and gasket (Figure 5.23). The full weight of
float itself. Soak for the time prescribed by the float should be resting on the needle
the manufacturer of the cleaner. valve and spring. The distance between the
CAUTION: Carburetor cleaner is flammable and should float and the bowl-flange gasket should be
not be used around flames or while smoking.
17. Clean the carbon deposits from the carbure-
tor bore, especially where the throttle and
choke plates seat. Make sure the idle or
main fuel ports do not become plugged.
18. Blow out all the passages with compressed
air. Do not clean with a wire or other metal-
lic object that may increase the size of the
orifices.
19. Check the condition of the needle valve and
float (Figure 5.21). Replace the needle valve
if damaged and the float if saturated with
fuel or damaged. Needle valves and floats
may not be part of the repair kit and may
have to be purchased separately.
20. Check the condition of the choke and the
throttle shafts for excessive play in their
bore and replace if necessary.
21. Replace the old components with new parts
from the repair kit.

Reassembly of Carburetor Reassemble the carburetor

when parts are clean and dry, following these steps: Figure 5.22 Procedure for installing a float and
a needle and seat assembly in Onan AC-generator
1. Slide in the throttle shaft and install the carburetors

Figure 5.23 Adjusting the carburetor float level in
Onan AC generators
1/16 inch, plus or minus 1/32 inch. This figure is
for the Onan; other measurements will vary
depending on the AC-generator manufac-
turer. To achieve the proper distance, remove
the float and bend the tab, but only at the
point specified by the float manufacturer
(marked on the float). The needle and seat
can become damaged if the float is adjusted
while in the carburetor.
6. Install the float bowl and main mixture screw
assembly. Turn the screw in until lightly
seated, then out two turns, plus or minus
1/4 turn for Onan, or the specified figure for
other manufacturers.
7. Reverse steps 1 through 9 under Carburetor
Removal and Disassembly on page 5.12 to
reassemble the carburetor, the manifold, and
the air cleaner.
8. Readjust mixture screws as described on
page 5.11.
Propane Conversions
A number of RV manufacturers are using LP-gas-
powered AC generators in rigs where it is not practi-
cal to use a separate gasoline tank (for example, diesel-
powered motorhomes and fifth-wheels). One drawback
of a propane-powered AC generator is that it uses the
CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.15
same propane supply needed to operate the stove, the
refrigerator, the water heater, and the furnace in the RV,
and that consumption must be monitored carefully.
The other major drawback is that propane does not
produce as many Btus of energy as gasoline, so an LP-
gas-powered AC generator will usually be downrated
from its gasoline-powered counterpart.
A gaseous fuel system consists of four primary sys-
tems: the supply tank, the electric propane-fuel-lock-
off solenoid, the regulator, and the carburetor (Figures
5.24 and 5.25).
The supply tank used in RVs is a "vapor-with-
drawal" type, that is, the vapors that form above
the liquid fuel in the tank are used for the appliances.
The normal method of linking to the standard RV-
propane system is to install a tee fitting into the gas
line. Care must be taken to insure that all fittings are
sealed with approved thread sealants and not tape-
type sealants, which can break off and get into the
valve seats in the lockout solenoid, the regulator,
or the carburetor and cause a gas leak. Also make
sure that only gas-type "black pipe" and LP-gas-ap-
proved flexible pipe is used when connecting the sys-
tem to the propane source.
The fuel-lockoff solenoid is operated by the start/run
circuit in the AC generator. It opens when the AC gen-
erator is first started and remains open while it's run-
ning. When the AC generator is shut down, the solenoid
closes to prevent fuel from escaping.
The regulator supplies the proper amount of fuel
pressure to the carburetor. Normally, the regulator
Figure 5.24 LP-gas fuel system for AC generators
5.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 5.25 The gaseous fuel system consists of four primary systems.

is set to provide 9 to 13 inches water-column pres-
sure (3.5 to 5 psi) under all conditions. Care must
be taken to make sure the pressure does not exceed
that recommended by the AC-generator manufac-
turer. In some systems, a secondary regulator called
a load block is used and should be adjusted only by
persons familiar with its operation.
Propane-gas carburetors (Figure 5.26) are quite
different from the gasoline type and no attempt to
interchange them should be made. The carburetor is
normally provided by the AC-generator manufac-
turer to fit the specific model.
The AC-generator manufacturer will provide the
specifications, installation, and test data for the in-
stallation but safety has to be one of the primary con-
cerns of the end user.
Choke Adjustment (Kohler)
AC generators utilize a 12-volt DC electric-choke
system (Kohler's 2.5-kw unit has a manual, hand-
operated choke) to enrich the fuel mixture when the
engine is cold. To adjust the choke:

Figure 5.26 LP-gas carburetor operating systems in the AC generator

 CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.17

1. Loosen the two screws securing the choke Table 5.2 Choke Adjustments
assembly to its bracket. Ambient air Rotation from
2. When properly set, the choke plate will be temperature reference mark*

within 5 to 10 degrees of full open at 70 ° F. 40°F (4°C) 0°

45°F (7°C) 4°CW
3. Rotate choke housing to attain this setting. 50°F (10°C) 8°CW
4. Tighten the retaining screws. 55°F (13°C) 12°CW
60°F (16°C) 16°CW
65°F (18°C) 20°CW
70°F (21 °C) 24°CW
Choke Adjustment (Onan) 75°F (24°C) 27°CW
80°F (27°C) 32°CW
85°F (29°C) 35°CW
To adjust Onan models: 90°F (32°C) 39°CW
95°F (35°C) 43°CW
100°F (38°C) 47°CW
1. Allow the engine to completely cool.
*Each mark on the choke housing equals 5° of angular rotation.
2. Remove the plastic choke cover and mount-
ing nut.
3. Loosen the heating-element screws.
4. Rotate the element housing until the choke
plate is halfway open.
5. Slowly rotate the cover counterclockwise while
tapping the carburetor choke lever and making
the choke lever bounce slightly. Continue the
rotation until tapping the lever no longer
makes it bounce. This is the fully closed posi-
tion and becomes the reference position.
6. Refer to Table 5.2 to determine the number
of degrees the cover must be rotated from the
reference position. Marks on the housing are
in 5-degree increments.
7. Rotate the cover as specified in the chart,
depending on the air temperature.
8. Tighten the screws and move the lever back
and forth to check for binding.
9. Install the choke cover and tighten the
mounting nut.

Generac Choke Adjustment

To make the adjustment:

1. When the choke solenoid is not actuated,

the carburetor choke plate should be about
1/8 inch from its full-open position. If neces-
sary, use needlenose pliers to bend the tip of
the bimetal piece on the automatic choke
assembly to obtain the desired setting
(Figure 5.27).
2. Loosen the screws that retain the choke sole-
noid to its bracket. Slide the choke solenoid
Figure 5.27 Generac automatic choke assembly
in the slotted holes of the bracket to adjust
the axial movement of the solenoid plunger.
Adjust the axial-plunger movement so that
with the carburetor choke plate closed, the
choke-adjustment-solenoid plunger is bot-
5.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
tomed in the solenoid coil (full-bottomed
position). With the choke plate closed and
plunger bottomed in the coil, tighten the
two screws.
Governor Adjustment
Voltage output and frequency of the AC generator
are affected by engine speed, which is controlled by
the governor. In most late-model AC generators, this
is done with an electronic sensor working in con-
junction with the ignition system to control engine
RPM. These governors are not adjustable; if they
are suspected of failure, the unit must be replaced.
Increasing engine speed increases voltage and fre-
quency, and vice versa. The governor maintains con-
stant engine speed as the load conditions vary so that
voltage and frequency remain within factory pa-
rameters. The most popular generators operate at
1,800 RPM at a voltage range between 120 and 132
volts and a frequency range between 59 and 63 hertz.
The owner should limit adjustment of the governor
to checking voltage by changing the linkage position.
Adjusting the frequency requires instrumentation
not normally available to the average mechanic. If
voltage is too high or too low after checking with a
multimeter, the governor linkage can be adjusted
to temporarily improve voltage. A factory-certified
service center should fine-tune voltage and frequency
as soon as possible.
Figure 5.28 Adjusting the governor in Kohler AC generators
If you are the owner of an older AC generator that
uses a mechanical speed regulator, read the follow-
ing section.
Adjusting the Kohler Governor
To adjust the Kohler governor, follow these steps (see
Table 5.3):
1. Probe the closest 120-volt AC plug receptacle
to the AC generator using a multimeter.
2. Make sure all appliances and the circuit
breaker to the power converter are off.
3. Start the AC generator and read the voltage.
4. If an adjustment is necessary, shut down the
AC generator and loosen the outside locking
nut on the speed-adjusting arm.
5. Restart the AC generator.
6. To increase speed and voltage, turn the ad-
justing nut (next to the locking nut) so that
it tightens or draws back the speed-adjusting
arm (Figure 5.28).
7. To decrease speed and voltage, loosen the
adjusting nut.
8. Tighten the locking nut after proper voltage
is achieved.
Table 5.3 Kohler Voltage and Frequency
Specifications
No load 62-63 Hz 1,800 RPM 120 volts, ± 5 volts
Full load 59-60 Hz 1,800 RPM 120 volts, ± 5 volts
 CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.19

9. Open circuit breaker(s) for the power con-

verter and appliances.

If the governor is too sensitive, engine speed will

surge as the load changes. If a big drop is noticed
when a normal load is applied, the governor must
be set for greater sensitivity. This is accomplished by
changing the position of the governor spring in the
governor arm holes. Move the spring in to make the
governor control more sensitive or out to make it
less sensitive. Recheck the engine speed after chang-
ing sensitivity.

Adjusting the Onan Governor

To adjust the Onan governor, follow these steps (see

Table 5.4):
1. Run the AC generator for ten minutes under a
light load to allow engine to reach its normal
operating temperature.
2. Make sure all the appliances and the circuit
breaker to the power converter are off.
3. Probe the closest 120-volt AC plug receptacle
to the AC generator using a multimeter.
4. Make sure the carburetor is properly adjusted.
5. Adjust the length of the governor linkage
(Figure 5.29) and check for binding or
looseness.
6. Adjust the length so that the stop on the
throttle-shaft assembly almost touches the
stop on the side of the carburetor. This
should be done with the engine stopped and
with tension on the governor spring. The ad-
justment is correct if one more turn on the
ball joint will allow the throttle-shaft stop to
touch the carburetor. Tighten the locknut.
7. With the AC generator running at no load, turn
the speed-adjusting nut in to increase speed
and voltage, or out to decrease speed and volt-
age. Then check the voltage under load (close
Table 5.4 Onan Voltage and Frequency Specifications
Maximum no load 63 Hz 1,890 RPM 132.0 volts
Minimum full load 57Hz 1,710 RPM 108.0 volts
Normal no load 62Hz 1,800 RPM 127.5 volts,
( ± 4 . 5 volts)
Figure 5.29 Adjusting the governor in Onan AC
generators
the circuit breakers and turn on 120-volt AC
appliances) using the same technique.
8. The sensitivity-adjustment screw must be set
to insure minimum (or no) speed and volt-
age difference between no load and full load,
without causing the engine to hunt. To in-
crease sensitivity or allow closer regulation,
turn the screw counterclockwise; to decrease
sensitivity, turn the screw clockwise.
9. Recheck speed and voltage after readjusting
sensitivity.
Generac Governor Adjustment
This static governor adjustment must be made prior
to starting the engine or attempting to perform
governor adjustments while the engine is running
(Figure 5.30).
1. Loosen the governor-lever bolt and nut.
2. Push on the governor lever until the throttle
is wide open. Do not bend the governor linkage.
3. Hold the governor lever in the "wide-open-
throttle" position and rotate the governor
shaft counterclockwise as far as it will go.
5.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 5.30 Generac static governor adjustment

Figure 5.31 Governor adjustment for vertical-shaft

units

Figure 5.32 Typical exhaust system for an AC-generator set


4. Hold the shaft in the fully counterclockwise
position and tighten the governor-lever bolt
and nut. Torque the governor-lever bolt and
nut to 8 N-m (70 inch-pounds).
The dynamic-governor adjustment is performed
with the engine running. With the static-governor
adjustment and choke adjustments completed:
1. Inspect the anti-lash spring (Figure 5.31) to
make sure it is not broken or disengaged.
2. Connect an accurate AC frequency meter to
the AC generator's output leads.
3. Start the engine: let it stabilize and warm up
without any load attached to it.
4. Turn the adjuster nut to attain a frequency
reading as close as possible to 62 hertz.
5. Apply electrical loads and test AC generator
operation with loads applied. Apply electri-
cal loads as close as possible to the AC gen-
erator's full-rated wattage capacity. Note the
amount of frequency drop when loads are
applied. Also note whether excessive hunt-
ing occurs when loads are disconnected.
6. If frequency drops below about 59 hertz
with a load applied, disconnect the load
and move the governor spring in the adjust-
ment bracket closer to the anti-lash spring,
then readjust with the adjuster nut to obtain
a no-load frequency as close as possible to
62 hertz. Again apply a load and check
drop.
7. Continue the above procedures until the
no-load speed is as close as possible to
62 hertz and excessive drop does not occur
under load and until excess hunting does
not occur when the load is removed.
Exhaust System
The exhaust system routes exhaust gas from the en-
gine away from the vehicle (Figure 5.32). A prop-
erly designed system will require little maintenance,
just regular inspection.
1. Inspect the exhaust-system installation. It
should be routed so that harmful gases may
CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.21
not be drawn into the vehicle through win-
dows, doors, air conditioning system, etc.
Make sure the system is fitted with steel tub-
ing, not the flexible tailpiping material that
can crack and leak, possibly causing exhaust
poisoning of the occupants.
2. Check the tailpipe outlet to make sure it has
not been crushed closed, which will cause
excessive back pressure, poor AC generator
performance, and possible overheating.
3. Make sure all components of the exhaust
system are at least 3 inches away from any
combustible material in the AC generator
compartment, floor, or exterior panel of the
vehicle.
4. Make sure the muffler and tailpipe are in
good condition, with no heavy corrosion or
holes in the piping or muffler.
5. Most AC generators are fitted with a spark-
arrestor-type muffler. Check your owner's
manual for any cleaning/replacement
requirements.
General Cautions Using Gasoline Blends
When operating an AC generator, the correct type
and grade of gasoline must be used. Some con-
ventional gasolines are blended with alcohol or
other chemicals to meet clean-air standards and re-
duce emissions. Before using any oxygenated fuel,
it's important to confirm the fuel's contents and the
percent of additives. Common gasoline additives
are:
Ethanol: Ethyl or grain alcohol. Ethanol-enhanced
fuel can be used as long as it does not exceed 10
percent by volume. This is sometimes marketed un-
der the name "Gasohol".
MTBE: Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether. This is a safe
fuel up to 15 percent by volume.
Methanol: Methyl or wood alcohol. Used up to 5
percent by volume, this chemical is safe for most
AC generators as long as it also contains cosolvents
and corrosion inhibitors to protect the fuel system.
If in doubt, don't use gasoline with methanol.
Anytime that you notice operating problems,
black smoke, missing or engine stumble, try an-
other service station or brand of gasoline.
5.22 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Onan Quiet Diesel
The Onan quiet diesel comes in power ratings of
7,500 and 8,000 watts but uses the same engine and
frame (Figure 5.33).
Owner maintenance is limited to general inspec-
tion of the system, checking oil level, changing en-
gine oil, air/oil/fuel filter change and coolant service.
All controls and service areas are at the operator's
console or on the bottom of the generator (Figure
5.34).
Figure 5.33 Onan Quiet Diesel Fuel Service
Oil level is checked by removing the yellow oil
filler cap located in the service area on the top of the
generator. Clean the dip stick and place it back into
the engine by screwing it in. Remove the dip stick
and read the level.
Changing the oil is accomplished by removing
the drain plug under the generator (Figure 5.35). Af-
ter all the oil has drained, refill with three quarts of
10W-30 four-cycle engine oil.
The Onan Quiet Diesel is cooled with water. A re-
serve/ overflow tank is located in the top of the unit.

Figure 5.34 Onan 7.5 kW Quiet Diesel
To check the level, look at the plastic reserve tank
and read the level on its side. If it is low, refill with
a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water.
Make sure that the antifreeze is of a type made for
aluminum engines.
The Onan uses a paper air filter element (Figure
5.36). To change the air filter, remove the two wing
nuts holding the outer and inner covers to the filter
housing. This exposes and frees the air cleaner. After
the new element is in place, install the wing nuts and
finger tighten. Place the new air filter into the air
CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.23
cleaner compartment, aligning it with the two at-
tachment bolts. Put on the two wing nuts and tighten
finger tight. Do not over tighten.
The fuel filter needs to be changed every 500 hours.
The cover over the engine must be removed to access
the filter. Squeeze the access door latches together
and let the door swing down out of the way. The
filter is located on the floor pan just behind the starter
motor. Use a wrench to remove the lines from the
filter and loosen the mounting nut. Dispose of the
fuel filter and replace.
5.24 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 5.35 Onan Quiet Diesel bottom access

Figure 5.36 Onan Quiet Diesel air cleaner service

 CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.25

■S E R V I C E S C H E D U L E ■
ONAN QUIET DIESEL AC GENERATOR

MAINTENANCE FREQUENCY

MAINTENANCE OPERATION Every Every Every Every Every

Day Month 150 Hours 500 Hours 1000 Hours

General Inspection •
Check Engine Oil Level •
Check Engine Coolant Level •
Clean and Check Battery •3
Change Engine Oil and Filter • 1/2,3,4
Clean Spark Arrestor •4
#2,4
Replace Engine Air Filter
Replace Fuel Filter
Check Coolant Anti-freeze Protection •4
Flush Coolant System •5
Replace Coolant Pressure Cap •5
Replace Engine V-belt •
6/7

Clean Crankcase Breather •6,7

Replace Coolant Hoses and Thermostat •6,7

Adjust Engine Valve Lash •6,7

Service Fuel Injectors •6,7

1 - A s a part of engine break-in, change the engine oil after the first 5 0 hours of operation.

2 - Perform m ore often when operatin g in dusty conditions.

3 - Perform m ore often when operatin g in hot w eather.
4 - Perform at least once a year.
5 - Perform at least once every tw o years.

6 - Perform at least once every five years.

7 - M ust b e performed by a qualified m echanic (authorized O nan dealer).

Troubleshooting code is as follows:

One blink: Shutdown due to high temperature.
The status light in the Onan Quiet Diesel con- Two blinks: Shutdown due to a loss of engine
troller is designed to blink-out error and trou- oil pressure.
bleshooting codes. These codes will be in one, two Three blinks: Shutdown due to some other ab-
or three blinks, followed by a pause and then one normal condition.
to nine blinks. There are 39 trouble codes that can If you get a one- or three-blink code, momentar-
be used for diagnosing problems (see Onan Quiet ily press STOP to bring up a second level code. At
Diesel Troubleshooting, page 5.26). For example, this point you will notice one, two or three blinks
a single blink is No. 1, which is a high tempera- followed by a pause and up to nine blinks. The first
ture condition. set of blinks is the left number and the second set
The status light in the control switch will blink represents the right number. For example: One blink,
following a fault shutdown. This light will blink followed by a pause and seven blinks is No. 17, which
repeatedly: one, two or three blinks at a time. The is a fuel pump fault.
5.26 The RV Repair & maintenance manual

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
ONAN QUIET DIESEL AC GENERATOR

WARNING: Some genset service procedures present hazards that can result in severe personal injury or death. Only qualified serv-
ice personnel with knowledge of fuels, electricity, and machinery hazards should perform genset service.

Fault Code or Problem Corrective Action

Status Light Dead - Does not come on or blink
when pushed to Start or Stop
a. Try starting at the operator's console on the genset if the remote panel light
does not work, and vice versa.
b. Replace Fuse FI (control B+) if it has blown.
c. Clean and tighten the positive ( + ) and negative (-) battery cable connec-
tions at the battery and at the genset.
d. Recharge the battery. Refer to the battery manufacturer's recommendations.

Engine Cranks But Does Not Start
a. Replace Fuse F3 (glow plugs) if it has blown.
b. Check the fuel level and refill as necessary. Prime the engine fuel system if
the genset ran out of fuel.
c. Check for fuel leaks and proper fuel line connections, especially at the fuel
filter.
d. Check the engine air filter and remove any blockage.

No Power When Genset Running

No. 1 - High Temperature Check the second-level fault code, which will be either
No. 33 or No 34.

No. 2 - Low Oil Pressure a. Check the engine oil level and add oil as necessary.

b. Drain the excess oil if the oil level is above the Full mark on the dipstick.

No. 3 - Service Code Check the second-level fault code, which will be one of the following in this
table, except No. 33 and No 34.

No. 11 - High Overcurrent a. Check for short-circuited appliances and wiring.

b. Reduced the number of appliances running at the same time.

No. 12 Service required.

No. 13-Under Voltage Reduced the number of appliances running at the same time.

Nos. 14,15,16 Service required.

No. 17 - Fuel Pump Fault Service required (bypassable).

No. 18-Glow Plug Fault Service required (bypassable).

Nos. 19,21 Service required.

No. 22 - Overload Reduce the number of appliances running at the same time.

No. 23 - Oil Pressure Switch Fault Service required (bypassable).

No. 24 - Temperature Sender Fault Service required (bypassable).

No. 25 - Above Engine Speed Target Prime the engine fuel system. There may be air in the fuel line.

No. 26 - Below Engine Speed Target Prime the engine fuel system.There may be air in the fuel line.
 CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.27

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
ONAN QUIET DIESEL AC GENERATOR - Continued

Fault Code or Problem Corrective Action

Nos. 27,28 Service required.

No. 29 - High Battery Voltage a. Check battery bank connections and reconnect if necessary so that the 12
volt batteries serving the genset are connected in parallel (12 volt) rather
than in series (24 volt).

b. Let the batteries recharge before starting the genset if a battery booster
(typically, 20+ volts) is being used.

No. 31 Service required.

No. 32 - Low Cranking Speed a. Replace Fuse F2 (starter solenoid) if it has blown.

b. Clean and tighten the positive ( + ) and negative (-) battery cable connec-
tions at the battery and at the genset.
c. Recharge the battery. Refer to the battery manufacturer's recommendations.
d. Change the engine oil, if necessary, to oil having the proper viscosity for the
ambient temperature. (High oil viscosity can slow cranking speed.)

No. 33 - High Engine Temperature a. Check the engine coolant level and add coolant as necessary.

b. Check for and remove any objects blocking the air inlet or outlet openings
in the bottom of the genset.
c. Watch the temperature gauge (optional) and run fewer appliances at the
same time if necessary to keep the temperature down.

No. 34 - High Inverter Temperature Check for and remove any objects blocking the air inlet or outlet openings
in the bottom of the genset.

No. 35 Service required.

No. 36 - Engine Stopped a. Check the fuel level and refill as necessary. Prime the engine fuel system as
explained under Starting and Stopping, Page 5, if the genset ran out of

fuel.

b. Check for fuel leaks and proper fuel line connections, especially at the fuel
filter. See FUEL FILTER, Page 16.
c. Check the engine air filter and remove any blockage. See AIR FILTER, Page
15.

No. 37 Service required.

No. 38 - Overcurrent Reduce the number of appliances running at the same time. See Powering
Equipment, Page 6.

No. 39 - Low Battery Voltage a. Clean and tighten the positive (+) and negative (-) battery cable connec-
tions at the battery and at the genset.

b. Avoid running the genset while cranking the vehicle engine (installations here
the genset batteries are used to supplement the vehicle engine batteries).
5.28 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 5.37 Kohler 7.5-10 kW inline radiator model AC generator

Figure 5.38 Kohler 1 5-20 kW diesel AC generate

 CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.29

■S E R V I C E SCHEDULE ■
KOHLER DIESEL AC GENERATORS
(Figures 5. 38 and 5.39)

Before After Every Every Every

Perform Service at Intervals Indicated (x)
Starting 50 Hrs. 150 Hrs. 300 Hrs. 500 Hrs.
FUEL SYSTEM

Check the fuel level and fill as necessary X

Check the fuel pipes and clamps 1 X
Remove sediment from the fuel tank X
Check the fuel injection timing 1
X
Replace the fuel filter element (metal spin-on type) First 50 Hrs. X X
Check the governor operation and adjust as necessary ' X
Check the nozzle injection pressure 1000 Hrs.
Check the injection condition X
Check and/or replace inline fuel filter X
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Check the crankcase oil level and add oil as necessary X
Replace the oil in the crankcase First 50 Hrs. X X
Replace the lube oil filter element First 50 Hrs. X X
COOLING SYSTEM

Check the coolant level and fill as necessary X

Check water pipes, damps, and hoses X
Flush the cooling system 1 X
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Verify operation of the gauges, if equipped X

Keep the battery charged and in good condition 2 X
Check the electrical connections X
Adjust the tension of the alternator V-beft1 X
INTAKE/EXHAUST SYSTEM
Replace the air cleaner element X
Check the crankcase breather pipe for obstructions 1 X
Inspect the complete exhaust system and components 1 X
ENGINE SYSTEM

Check for water, fuel, coolant, and oil leakage X X

Retighten any loose nuts and bolts 1 First 50 Hrs. X X
Adjust the valve clearance X
GENERATOR SYSTEM
Test run the generator set Weekly X
Blow the dust out of the generator X
Clean slip rings and inspect brushes, if equipped ' X

1 Have authorized service distributor/dealer perform this service.

2 Consult the battery manufacturer's instructions.
 ■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■

5.30 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

KOHLER DIESEL AC GENERATOR

Trouble Symptoms

Generator Excessive
Generator set cranks Generator No or low Generator Generator Generator or
set does not but does set starts generator set stops set lacks set Low of High fuel abnormal
Probably Causes crank not start hard voltage suddenly power overheats pressure consumption noise Actions

Air cleaner clogged X X X X Clean or replace.

Engine overload X X X X Reduce electrical load. See the installation
manual for wattage requirements.
Compression weak X X X X X Check the compression.*
Engine

Exhaust system leak X Inspect the exhaust system. Replace the

inoperative exhaust system components.*
Exhaust system not securely installed X Inspect the exhaust system. Tighten the
loose exhaust system components.*
Governor inoperative X X X X Adjust the governor. *
Valve clearance incorrect X X Adjust this valves.*
Excessive vibration X Tighten all loose hardware.
Incorrect crankcase oil type X X X X Change the oil. Use oil with a viscosity
for ambient temperature suitable for the operating climate.
Oil level low
Lube

X X X Restore the oil level. Inspect the generator

Low oil pressure shutdown
Battery connection loose,
corroded or incorrect
Battery weak or dead
Starter/starter solenoid inoperative
Electrical
set for oil leaks.
X X Check the oil level.
X X Verify that the battery connections are
correct, clean and tight.
X X Recharge or replace the battery.
X X Replace the starter or starter solenoid.

Engine harness twist-lock connector X X X Disconnect the engine harness twist-lock con-
not locked light nector then reconnect it to the controller.
High water temperature switch X Replace the inoperative switch.
inoperative
Fault shutdown X Reset the fault switches and troubleshoot the
controller.
Voltage regulator inoperative or X X X Replace the voltage regulator fuse. Excite the
out of adjustment main field separately. *
* Have authorized service distributor/dealer perforin this service.

c {
 ■ T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
KOHLER DIESEL AC GENERATOR - Continued

Trouble Symptoms
Generator Excessive
Generator set cranks Generator No or low Generator Generator Generator or
set does not but does set starts generator set stops set lacks set Low of High fuel abnormal
Probably Causes crank not start hard voltage suddenly power overheats pressure consumption noise Actions
Inoperative controller circuit board X X Replace the controller circuit board.
Tripped controller circuit breaker X X Reset the controller circuit breaker.
Controller fault X Troubleshoot the controller.*
Control

Blower controller fuse X X X Replace the clown controller fuse. If the fuse
blows again, troubleshoot the controller. *
Inoperative controller start/stop switch X Replace the start/stop switch.
Low content level X Restore coolant to normal operating level.
Innoperative cooling water pump X Tighten or replace the belt. Replace the
water pump.
High temperature shutdown X Allow the engine to cool down. Then
Cooling

troubleshoot the cooling system.

Low coolant level shutdown if equipped
Inoperative thermostat
Air in fuel system (1)
Fuel tank empty or fuel valve shut off
Inoperative fuel feed or injection pump (1)
Fuel or fuel injectors dirty or faulty (1)
Fuel
X Restore coolant to normal operating level.
X X Replace the thermostat.
X X X Bleed the diesel fuel system.
X X Add fuel and move the fuel valve to the ON
position.
X X X Rebuild or replace the injection pump.*
X X X Clean, test, and/or replace the inoperative

fuel injector.
Fuel filter restriction X X X X Clean or replace the fuel filter.

CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.31

Inoperative fuel solenoid
Fuel injection timing out of adjustment (1)
Open AC output circuit breaker
Transfer switch main power contacts in X
Generator
X X X Troubleshoot the fuel solenoid. *
X X X X Adjust the fuel injection timing. *
X Reset the breaker and check for AC voltage at
the generator side of the circuit breaker.
Turn the switch to the auto position.

the OFF position

Open wiring, terminals, or pin in X Check for continuity.
the exciter field
Inoperative main field (rotor)(2) X Test and/or replace the rotor.*
Inoperative stator (2) X Test and/or replace the stator. *
Excessive vibration X Tighten loose components. *
* Have authorized service distributor/dealer perform this service.
(1) diesel only
(2) open or grounded
5.32 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 5.39 Honda 4 kW and 6 kW AC generators

Figure 5.40 Honda 4 and 6 kW air filter service

 CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.33

■ SERVICE SCHEDULE ■
HONDA AC GENERATORS
Figures 5.39 and 5.40

ITEM REGULAR SERVICE PERIOD

Perform at every indicated month Every Every Every

or operating hour interval, Each Use First month 3 months 6 months year or
whichever comes first or 20 Hrs. or 50 Hrs. or 100 Hrs. 300 Hrs.

Exhaust system Check o

* Engine oil Check level o
Change o o
* Air cleaner Check o
Clean o (1)
Replace o (*)
Radiator coolant Check level o
Change o
* Sediment cup Clean o
* Spark plugs Clean-Readjust o
Replace o
Spark arrester Clean o
* Valve clearance Check-Readjust o
Oil filter Change o
* Fuel tank and filter Clean o
* Fuel line Check
(Replace if necessary) Every 2 years
* Emission related items.

(*) Replace paper element only.

(1) Service more frequently when used in dusty areas.
5.34 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
HONDA AC GENERATORS

A. The engine will not start:

1. Is the engine switch on?
2. Are the fuses good?
3. Is there enough fuel? Some RV vehicles will not continue to supply fuel to the generator after the fuel tank level is below a certain limit.
4. Are all loads disconnected from the AC receptacles?
5. Is the temperature warning lamp turned OFF? If the lamp is on, add coolant to the reserver tank and, if necessary, to the radiator.
6. Is there a spark at the spark plugs?
a. Remove the spark plug cap. Clean any dust from around the spark plug base, then remove the spark plug.
b. Install the spark plug in the plug cap.
c. Turn the engine switch on.
d. Grounding the side electrode to any engine ground, operate the starter to see if sparks jump across the gap.

WARNING: Be sure there is no spilled fuel near the spark plug. Spilled fuel may ignite. Perform this test in a well ventilated area.

e. If there are no sparks, replace the plugs.

f. If the new spark plugs do not spark, take the generator to an authorized Honda RV generator dealer.
7. Is gasoline reaching the carburetor?
To check, place a suitable container under the drain, turn the fuel valve on and loosen the drain screw. Fuel should flow out freely. If OK, try
to start the engine according to the instructions.

WARNING: If any fuel spilled, make sure the area around the spark plug and the generator is dry before starting the engine. Fuel vapor or
spilled fuel may ignite.

B. The engine starts but stops immediately.

1. If the temperature warning lamp is not on, check the engine oil level and fill with the recommended oil.
2. Allow the engine to cool, if necessary, then restart.

C. No electricity output:
1. Is the circuit breaker on?
2. Check the electrical appliance or equipment for any defects.

Honda EU-lOOOi Portable Gasoline AC Generator
Honda's EU-lOOOI portable AC generator is popular
with owners of tent trailers, small travel trailers and
campers. It produces 900 watts of continuous power
and 1,000 watts of surge power. This type of AC gen-
erator normally has an 8-amp, 12-volt DC output
for direct battery charging. Honda's small AC gen-
erator is very light, extremely quiet and is designed
to operated sensitive electrical appliances (like com-
puters).
User service is limited to oil changes, spark plug
changes, air filter cleaning or replacement.
The Honda EU-lOOOi has an engine oil capacity
of .26 of a US quart). The dipstick is located under
the left side engine cover. When the generator is
placed on a level area, loosen the cover screw and re-
move the left-side cover. Remove the oil filler cap
and wipe the dipstick clean. Check the oil level by
inserting the dipstick without screwing it in; remove
the dipstick and read the level. If the oil is low, fill
the crankcase until the oil it to the bottom of the
filler neck. Reinstall the oil filler cap tightly and re-
place the engine cover.
Changing the Oil
Changing the oil requires removing the left engine

cover and the oil filler cap. Make sure that the en-
gine switch and vent lever are turned to the off po-
sition. Place a low pan on the left side of the generator
under the area of the oil filler. Tip the generator on
its side to until all the oil is drained. Refill oil to
the bottom of the filler neck. Reinstall the oil filler
cap tightly and replace the engine cover.
Air Cleaner Service
To service the air cleaner remove the left side en-
gine cover. Press the latch tab on the top of the
air cleaner case, and remove the air cleaner cover.
Wash the air filter in a solution of household de-
tergent and warm water, then rinse thoroughly. Al-
low the filter to air dry. After the filter is completely
dry, soak the air filter in clean engine oil and
squeeze out the excess oil. The engine will smoke
during initial startup if too much oil is left in the
filter. Remove the rubber air guide from the air
cleaner case. Clean the air guide and the air cleaner
case with a moist rag, and then reinstall the air
guide and filter. Replace the air filter cover and the
left side engine cover.
Spark Plug Replacement
Spark plug replacement is straightforward. Remove
the spark plug maintenance cover under the han-
dle on the top of the generator. Remove the spark
plug cable from the top of the plug. Check to make
sure that all dirt is removed from around the base
of the plug. This prevents dirt falling into the en-
gine once the plug is removed. Using the wrench
from the tool kit that comes with the generator, re-
move the spark plug. Visually inspect the spark
plug. If the plug is cracked, the tip burnt or chipped,
discard the plug and install a new one. Make sure
that the spark plug gap is between 0.024-0.028-
inch. Make sure the spark plug gasket is in good
condition, not crushed or corroded. Put the plug
back into the engine by hand, this ensures that it
does not become cross-threaded. Tighten with the
spark plug wrench. If you are installing a new plug,
CHAPTER 5 AC Generators 5.35
tighten 1/2 turn after the spark plug seats to com-
press the washer. If reinstalling a used spark plug,
tighten 1/8 to 1/4 turn after the spark plug seats to
compress the washer.
CAUTION: The spark plug must be securely tightened. An improp-
erly tightened spark plug can become very hot and could damage
the engine. Never use a spark plug that does not match the specifi-
cations of the original plug.
Spark Arrester Service
After every 100 hours of operation, the spark ar-
rester in the muffler needs to be cleaned (Figure
5.41). Remove the four 5mm screws from the muf-
fler end of the generator and take off the rear cover.
Remove three 6mm bolts from the muffler and pull
the muffler and spark arrester from the engine. Use
a brush to remove the carbon deposits from the
spark arrester screen. Inspect the screen for breaks
or tears; replace if necessary. Reinstall the muffler
gasket, spark arrester muffler and the cover plate
in the reverse order of removal.
Storage
If the generator is to be stored for less than 30 days,
the fuel tank should be filled with fresh gasoline
and fuel conditioner/stabilizer added. For stor-
age periods beyond 30 days, the fuel should be
drained from the fuel system, including the car-
buretor. Use a hand siphon to remove all the fuel
from the fuel tank. The Honda generator has a drain
tube at the base of the carburetor float bowl. To
drain the fuel bowl, open the left side engine cover
and the spark plug cover on the top of the gener-
ator. Remove the spark plug cable from the spark
plug and loosen the carburetor drain screw; drain
the gasoline into a proper container. Turn on the
engine switch and pull the starter rope three to four
times to empty the fuel pump. When gasoline no
longer comes out of the float bowl, tighten the
drain plug. Turn the engine switch to off, replace
the spark plug cable, and close the engine covers.
5.36 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 5.41 Honda EU-1 OOOi portable AC generator muffler service

 ■ CHAPTER 6 ■
HEATING SYSTEMS
Propane-fired furnaces are used for comfort heat-
ing in all RVs, with the exception of a few lux-
ury motorcoaches. The forced-air ducted furnace is
the most prevalent technology in use throughout the
industry. This type of furnace operates in much the
same manner as a household furnace, heating air
in a heat exchanger, then employing a blower to force
the heated air through a system of ducts routed to
various points in the RV.
A second style of propane-fired RV furnace is the
undercounter unit. In this type of furnace, air is heated
by a heat exchanger and is blown into the RV directly
from the furnace, without the use of ducts. Under-
counter furnaces are most often installed in smaller
RVs, such as tent trailers and pickup campers, where
heat distribution over a wide area is not required.
Another source of heat is the catalytic heater. These
units are normally used as auxiliary heat sources. Cat-
alytic heaters mix propane and air in a silica wool pad
impregnated with platinum. Platinum is the catalyst
that allows combustion to take place without a flame.
Catalytic heaters produce warmth that heats objects
and people, but not the air. Even though catalytic
heaters are nearly 100 percent efficient, they still con-
sume oxygen and therefore require attention to ven-
tilation in the living space. As a comparison, forced-air
units operate at about an 80-percent efficiency level.
A fourth type is the perimeter heating system, found
only in a few large, luxury motorhomes. Installation
of a perimeter heating system requires the living area
be specifically designed for use of the system. These
systems heat water, which is then circulated by means
of a small electric pump through pipes around the
perimeter of the RV's floor. It is a radiant-heat sys-
tem that produces a very even and comfortable level
of warmth throughout the coach.
■ FORCED-AIR FURNACES ■
All forced-air furnaces share similar basic operating
principles (Figure 6.1). The term forced air is derived
from the fact that outside air is force-fed to a sealed
combustion-chamber assembly while interior air is
moved through a heat exchanger.
The typical sequence of operation for a modern
RV forced-air furnace is as follows:
■ The thermostat is first in line of the controls
for the furnace operating circuit. By reacting
to room temperature, the thermostat opens or
closes a set of contact points that permit elec-
tric current to flow to the on/off switch and
then to the delay relay.
■ The delay relay incorporates a heater coil that
activates a bi-metal disc closing the relay
circuit.
■ The current then flows to the motor and acti-
vates the blower. The motor shaft powers one
wheel for circulation air and another that
provides combustion air to the burner.
■ The circulating air blows against the sail
switch, and as the switch is activated it com-
pletes the circuit. The sail switch is in the sys-
tem as a safety device to insure that there is
adequate air for combustion.
■ The limit switch is a safety device that pro-
tects the furnace against overheating. At a
given temperature, the switch opens, thereby
shutting off power to the ignition system that
controls the gas valve.
* Furnaces with electronic-ignition systems in-
corporate a timing circuit to allow the blower
to purge the chamber of combustion prod-
 6.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 6.1 The operation and flow of a typical RV furnace
ucts or gases. Then the system will apply cur-
rent to the gas valve and simultaneously pro-
duce a high-voltage-current supply to the
electrode to generate a spark at the burner. A
sensor confirms the presence of a flame. If a
flame is not sensed after a few seconds, the
system will try again to ignite the furnace. If
there is repeated failure to ignite, the furnace
will go into lockout mode.
■ As the room temperature rises, the thermostat
will sense this and the contacts will open,
thus removing power from the controls. The
blower will remain active until the relay
opens and stops the motor.
There are three types of ignition systems. The most
basic ignition system is a manual match-lit pilot (called
a standing pilot) that remains on until it is manually
turned off. More technologically advanced is the piezo-
electric spark ignition used to light the standing pi-
lot (this eliminates the need for a match). Most
advanced is an electronic-ignition system in which a
transformer generates a spark to light the main burner
upon demand from the thermostat, resulting in a fully
automatic, pilotless lighting system.
Furnace operation is controlled by a wall-mounted
thermostat. The thermostat monitors the RV's inte-
rior temperathre and signals the furnace when to turn
on and off. It does this through a set of elecirical con-
tact points that open and close, depending upon the
relationship between the thermostat setting and the
ambient temperature. When the room temperature
falls below the adjusted setting on the thermostat
dial, the contacts close. This energizes the furnace
circuitry that starts the heating cycle.
What happens next depends upon the type of ig-
nition system being used. In standing pilot furnaces,
the gas-control valve opens, sending propane to the
pilot flame, and the burner ignites. In electronic-
ignition furnaces (direct spark ignition or DSI), the
 CHAPTER 6 Heating Systems 6.3

gas-control valve opens and a spark is simultane-

ously generated to ignite the main burner.
Gas-burning furnaces consume oxygen and must
be vented to the outside to prevent the oxygen in-
side the RV from being consumed. The way the fur-
nace heats room air without consuming the oxygen
in the room is ingenious. The flame burning in the
combustion chamber heats the air in a sealed heat
exchanger. A fan pulls cold air from inside the RV
through the heat exchanger where it is heated and
forced back into the living compartment. It is the
separation of air used for combustion and air used
for heating the interior of the RV that makes the fur-
nace safe.
Safe Use of Forced-Air Furnaces
Safe use of a propane-fired forced-air furnace is fur-
ther enhanced by several other features. Chief among
these is the thermocouple (Figure 6.2), a heat-sens-
ing device that detects a level of heat and responds
by generating a small electric current. This current is
sent to the gas-control device that will shut off the
gas supply if current is not available. An example of
how this works is as follows: If the pilot flame were
to blow out, the thermocouple would sense the lack
of heat and fail to produce an electric current—which
would, in turn, signal the control valve to shut off
the gas supply.
Another important safety feature is a special switch
called a sail or an air-prover (Figure 6.3). It is so-named
because it is sensitive to airflow. The purpose of the
sail switch is to detect airflow to the burner assem-
bly and take certain safety steps if the airflow is not
Figure 6.3 Switch here is called a sail or air-
prover.
proper. If, for example, airflow is inadequate to the
combustion chamber, the sail switch will not permit
the gas-control valve to open, and the main burner
cannot be ignited. If, for any reason, the air supply
to the burner is blocked, restricted, or hampered by
slow fan speed due to low system voltage, the sail
switch will prevent the furnace from operating.
Critical to the safe operation of a forced-air fur-
nace is the temperature-limit switch (Figure 6.4).
This safety switch is normally closed and will open
only if the furnace assembly becomes overheated.
When the switch opens, it causes the gas-control valve
to close, discontinuing gas flow to the main burner.
An example of a situation in which the temperature-
limit switch would come into operation, shutting
the system down, would be if the furnace outlet were
blocked, resulting in an an overheated furnace.
At the end of the heating cycle, the heat exchanger
needs to be cooled down and the combustion cham-

Figure 6.2 Thermocouple for propane forced-

air furnace Figure 6.4 Temperature limit switch
6.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

2. Air Wheel: This should be clean and clear of

obstructions. Starting the furnace with
something in the blower air chamber will
damage the wheel.
3. Burner: The burner requires no adjustments
but should have a clear blue flame. If the
burner has a yellow or wavering flame, the
burner should be cleaned and inspected.
Burners should be cleaned with a wire
brush to remove debris, rust, and corrosion
buildup. If this fails to rectify the situation,
the burner should be replaced.
4. Combustion Chamber: Check the air intake
and the flue areas of the furnace for internal
Figure 6.5 Furnace fan switch
obstructions such as wasp or bird nests. The
life span of the chamber is in direct propor-
ber purged. This task is accomplished by a furnace
tion to the amount of usage; therefore, it is
fan switch (Figure 6.5). When the interior living space
essential to inspect the chamber for cracks
is warm enough, the thermostat contacts open, shut-
or holes. The unit is not field repairable and
ting the gas-control valve, and the flame dies. Even
should be replaced if it is damaged.
though the burner is no longer operating, the com-
5. Control Compartment: This is the area around
bustion chamber and heat exchanger remain hot and
the furnace. It should be free of dirt and lint.
must be cooled and purged. The furnace-fan switch
6. Direct Spark Ignition Module: If the DSI or
permits the fan to operate until the assembly is cool,
control-module board is found to be defec-
before shutting off. At that point, the furnace can be
tive, it must be replaced; there is no field
reignited by simply turning the thermostat dial to a
repair for this part. Make sure that the re-
higher temperature.
placement part is the exact board called for
A malfunction in any of the integrated safety sys-
by the manufacturer.
tems discussed can cause a problem with furnace op-
7. Ducting: All heat ducts should be clear of
eration. Following a logical course of troubleshooting
sawdust, lint, and obstructions. Make sure
can reveal the defective component.
all the ducts are firmly connected to the fur-
nace and that there is a minimum of
1/4 inch clearance where they pass through
Preventive Maintenance Inspections
combustible construction or cabinetry.
of Forced-Air Furnaces
There must be a minimum number of
ducts as required by the individual furnace
The forced-air furnace should be inspected on an an-
manufacturer (for the specific model
nual basis. This is essential if an RV owner is to have
furnace). Failure to use the minimum
reliable and safe operation of the furnace. Here are
number of ducts can create overheating
the major check areas:
problems.
8. Gas Pressure: The normal pressure is
1. Inspect the furnace monthly during the heating
11 inches water column and can be checked
season: Look for soot buildup on the vent.
by a manometer (see page 2.6). If you do
This is an indication of incomplete combus-
not have a manometer or don't know how
tion and is a warning that the furnace is
to use one, have the pressure checked by a
operating in an unsafe condition. If soot is
qualified RV technician.
observed on the vent, shut down the fur-
9. Gaskets: Inspect all gaskets for tight seals.
nace immediately and contact a qualified
Do not reuse gaskets.
service technician.
10. Motor: The motor is a sealed unit and is
 CHAPTER 6 Heating Systems 6.5

permanently lubricated. If the motor makes

unusual noises or drags when it warms up,
replace it with an exact replacement part.
11. Physical Support: Inspect the flooring, sup-
ports, and frame around the furnace.
12. Return Air: The return-air passage should be
clear of obstructions and free of lint, spider
webs, or other combustibles. Do not use
"wasp filters" over the return air or exhaust.
These screens can eventually restrict airflow,
leading to a dangerous situation. Also,
use of these screens will void the warranty
provided by the furnace manufacturer.
13. Voltage: There should be between 10.5 and Figure 6.6 RV furnaces fail to perform properly
when electric power to the system is lower
13.5 volts DC at the furnace during operation.
than 10.5 volts.
The gas valve will not open if voltage is below
10.5. If the battery is okay, check for faulty or
light-gauge wiring and/or defective terminals. 7. Be sure the electrode assembly screws are
snug at all times.

Cautions and Warnings

Before you attempt to perform any repair work on your
furnace, you need to be aware of these precautions:
1. RV furnaces and propane systems involve po-
tential hazards. These systems should only be
serviced or repaired by those who are familiar
and comfortable with the proper procedures.
Major repairs should be performed only by
professional service technicians.
2. If any of the gas lines are to be disconnected,
make sure the source is turned off and the gas
in the lines has time to dissipate before be-
ginning work. All spark sources must be
turned off or disconnected.
3. Never operate the furnace with the electrode
wire disconnected or with the electrode as-
sembly removed from the furnace.
4. Never use a battery charger to provide power
to check the furnace operation. Use only a
12-volt battery.
5. Never use a screwdriver on any part of the
electrode assembly while the furnace is
operating.
6. Be sure the spark from the electrode never
reaches the flame-sensor portion of the elec-
trode assembly.
Service and Repair of Forced-Air Furnaces
RV furnaces fail to perform properly when electric
power to the system is lower than 10.5 volts (Figure
6.6). When operating on power from the house bat-
teries, it is not uncommon for furnace-function prob-
lems to be caused by low battery voltage. Many circuit
boards are replaced when the actual problem is only
a weak or dead battery. See page 1.11 to determine
the battery's state of charge.
Furnaces that use electronic ignition systems gen-
erate high voltages to create a spark to light the main
burner. This voltage can cause severe shock. Keep
your hands and tools away from the igniter area when
you are testing.
Correcting Pilot-Light Failure
One of the most common furnace problems is
pilot-light failure. Check the following to correct this
difficulty:
■ Check the propane tank to make sure there is
an adequate amount of tuel.
■ Check that the gas-cylinder valve is open and
the manual valve to the furnace is rotated so
6.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
it is parallel with the gas-supply tubing (open
position).
■ Make sure the gas-control valve in the furnace
is turned to the on position and that the
pilot-light button is fully depressed.
■ Check that the gas-pressure regulator is set
to 11 inches of water-column pressure with
the propane tank filled (see page 2.6).
■ If the furnace in question utilizes a piezoelec-
tric spark lighter for the flame, there must be
a spark present when the lighter is energized.
If not, check the gap from the spark electrode
to ground. It should be about 1/8 inch.
■ If the gas supply has been shut off during
prolonged storage, the lines may be full of air
(Figure 6.7). Try lighting the stove to purge air
from the system. It may take several minutes
and many attempts before the air in the lines
is purged and gas reaches the pilot orifice.
■ The pilot gas orifice is very small and is prone
to clogging. To check for a clogged orifice,
place a small amount of soapy-water solution
over the end of the orifice and push the pilot-
light button on the gas-control valve. If no
bubbles appear, the orifice is clogged.
■ Pilot orifices are so small that it is best to
replace them rather than attempt to clean
them. Do not try to insert any metal object
through the orifice in an attempt to clean it;
the precision-size hole in soft brass may
become deformed.
Figure 6.7 Gas supply to furnace is controlled by
an in-line valve.
■ Manual pilots usually have an adjustment
screw located behind a cover screw in the gas
controller. This screw is to adjust the height of
the pilot flame. If it is closed too far, the flame
will not ignite. Remove the cover screw (there
will be a small O-ring located under this
screw). The O-ring must be in place when the
cover screw is returned, or gas will leak into
the interior of the RV. Once the pilot flame is
established, it should be adjusted to envelop
the end of the thermocouple. Check for leaks,
using soapy water when done.
Correcting Pilot-Light Outage
(Manual-Control Models Only)
Sometimes the pilot is easy to ignite, but continu-
ally extinguishes. If constant pilot outage is a prob-
lem, there are several areas that can be checked and
serviced.
■ The flame can be adjusted in two ways: With
the flame-adjustment screw in the gas-control
valve (Figure 6.8), or by slightly bending
the pilot flame mounting bracket with
needlenose pliers to direct the flame at the
thermocouple (Figure 6.9). The pilot flame
should be directed so that the entire end of
the thermocouple is engulfed in flame.
■ If the pilot still goes out, it is possible that the
Figure 6.8 Flame-adjustment screw in the gas-
control valve
 CHAPTER 6 Heating Systems 6.7

pilot-flame orifice. Tighten the tubing nut

into the gas-control valve finger tight, plus
one-quarter turn. Do not overtighten, because
it will damage the end of the tube and de-
stroy the thermocouple.
■ Relight the pilot. The flame should continue
to burn.

Checking for a Leaking Control Valve

(Manual-Control Models Only)

Other reasons for pilot outage may be lack of vent-

ing, incorrect gas pressure, a leaking control valve,
or improper pilot-flame adjustment. A leaking con-
Figure 6.9 Bend the pilot-flame-mounting bracket trol valve allows a very small amount of raw gas to
slightly with needle-nose pliers to direct the flame at
enter the chamber, where, over a period of time, it
the thermocouple.
consumes the oxygen in the chamber, eventually
causing the pilot to go out. To check for a leaking
thermocouple is defective (Figure 6.10). The
control valve:
thermocouple unit is inexpensive and easy to
replace. Turn off the gas supply at the valve
■ Observe the main burner assembly when it is
on the propane tank. Using a tubing wrench,
shut off. The presence of even a small flame
remove the connector nut where the thermo-
will cause the pilot to fail.
couple's tube connects with the gas-control
■ If there is a flame present, other than the
valve. Remove the connection between the
pilot flame, the gas controller should be
thermocouple tip and the furnace's combus-
replaced.
tion chamber.
■ To replace the unit, reverse the above proce-
dure, making sure the tip of the thermocou-
ple is set at the correct distance from the Replacing the Gas Controller
(Manual-Control Models Only)

To replace the gas controller (Figure 6.11):

1. Make sure you have obtained an exact re-

placement, as stated in the furnace owner's
manual. Use a controller designed for your
specific application.
2. Shut off the propane supply at the main tank.
3. Carefully remove and mark all control wires
so they are installed in the correct location
on the new valve assembly.
4. With a tubing wrench, remove the propane
inlet, the outlet to the main burner, the ther-
mocouple, and the pilot tube from the con-
trol valve.
Figure 6.10 If the pilot still goes out, it is possible
5. The control valve is now free from the fur-
that the thermocouple is defective. nace and can be removed.
6.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 6.11 The gas-control valve in the furnace must be replaced with the identical part specified by
the manufacturer.
6. Some furnaces may have the burner-manifold
assembly connected directly to the gas valve.
If this is the case, the burner assembly should
be removed with the valve assembly so the
valve can be placed in a bench vise to remove
the burner.
7. Replace the new valve in the reverse order,
connect the wires, turn on the gas, and check
all connections with soapy water for leaks.
8. If there are no leaks, turn on the control
valve, ignite, and adjust the pilot. Adjust the
thermostat so the main burner will light.
Check the condition of the pilot flame and
main burner flame. When the main burner
cycles off, the pilot should continue to burn.
Erratic furnace performance will result from gas-
pressure fluctuation. Outside temperature and level
of fuel in the propane tank play roles in determin-
ing gas pressure. Here's what Duo-Therm has to say
about the importance of proper gas pressure:
Low gas pressure can lead to unsatisfactory fur-
nace operation (nuisance lockouts, high-pitched
noise during operation, reduced heat output and
pilot outages, etc.). Be sure that the gas-line pres-
sure at the furnace is 11 inches (water-column)
pressure during furnace operation. This line pres-
sure will result in a 9.5 to 10.5 manifold pressure
at the gas-valve manifold outlet tap. Low gas-line
pressure can be corrected by adjusting the
propane-tank regulator. This adjustment should
be made by a qualified service person.
At low temperatures, partially filled propane
tanks may not be able to deliver sufficient gas to
maintain adequate line pressure. For example, a
50-percent-full, 30-pound (7.5-gallon) propane
cylinder at 0°F can only supply 22,600 Btus of gas
each hour, a 30-percent-full tank will further re-
duce this supply to 17,600 Btus per hour, and a
50-percent full tank at -10 °F will deliver only
11,300 Btus per hour. When the demand on the
system is greater than it can supply, line pressure
will be reduced, which will adversely affect the
operation of the appliance.
Checking for Other Burner-Light Failures
Even though the pilot is operating properly, the main
burner may still fail to light. If that happens, here are
some areas that should be checked:

Figure 6.12 Checking the thermostat with a
multimeter (ohms)
■ Make sure the thermostat is turned on and set
to a temperature high enough to activate the
gas-control valve.
■ To check the thermostat, disconnect the ther-
mostat wires from the furnace. Then connect
the leads from a multimeter (ohms) across
these two wires. When the thermostat contacts
close (thermostat set to high temperature),
there should be a zero-ohm reading; when the
contacts open (thermostat set to low tempera-
ture) there should be an infinity-ohm reading
(Figure 6.12). If this does not occur, replace the
thermostat with an exact duplicate. There are
many different types of thermostats used in the
RV industry. An incompatible replacement
may render the furnace inoperable.
■ Low-battery voltage will not allow the furnace
fan to operate fast enough to close the sail
switch. Make sure voltage is at least 10.5.
■ A stuck sail switch that does not respond to
airflow will not allow the gas-control valve to
open. The furnace must be removed from its
compartment to gain access to the switch and
associated linkage. The sail switch can be
checked with a multimeter (ohms). It should
be in the open position (infinity on the ohm
meter) normally, and closed (zero ohms)
only when there is sufficient airflow.
■ Reversed battery polarity will cause the fan
motor to operate in reverse. This will not al-
low the sail switch to close and activate the
CHAPTER 6 Heating Systems 6.9
burner. If the furnace is ducted, make sure the
ducting and register grates are not blocked or
kinked. If airflow cannot escape the furnace at
an adequate rate, the limit switch will over-
heat, causing the gas-control valve to shut
down the burner. The burner intake and out-
let on the exterior of the RV must be clear.
Any blockage here will reduce airflow to the
combustion chamber, making the flame
nearly impossible to light. Check for animal
nests or other obstructions in the vent inlet
and outlet.
■ If the furnace has electronic ignition, the spark
may not be adequate to start the gas burning.
Check to see that the electrode gap is correct.
For all models of furnaces the gap should be
1/8 inch, plus or minus 1/32 inch. If there still is
no spark, check the electrode lead for cracks
and broken insulation. If there are high volt-
age leaks, the spark will fail to appear.
■ The spark is controlled by a modular printed
circuit board. It is important that the board's
wiring connections and terminals be clean.
Corrosion and dirt at these terminals can
cause the spark ignition to fail. Remove the
connections and check for dirt and corrosion.
Use a cotton swab and alcohol to clean the
terminal connections.
■ If the main burner still fails to light, the prob-
lem could be a clogged main burner jet. To
clean the jet, the burner assembly must be
removed from the gas-control valve (Figure
6.13). Do not attempt to clean the jet with a
metal object, as the jet can become damaged,
producing an incorrect amount of gas flow.
Clean the jet with a wooden or plastic tooth-
pick (Figure 6.14). If the clog cannot be re-
moved by this method, a new jet should be
purchased and installed.
Checking for Burner Lockout
(Electronic-Ignition Furnaces Only)
Burner lockout occurs only in electronic-ignition fur-
naces (Figures 6.15 and 6.16). It is noticeable when
the main burner momentarily ignites, then goes out.
The furnace must be shut off for several minutes while
it resets, then the attempt can be made to reignite
6.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE F O R C E D - A I R F U R N A C E

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Pilot will not light Empty LP-gas supply Replenish

Wrong LP-gas pressure Adjust to 11 inches water-column pressure
Defective piezo lighter Replace lighter assembly
Incorrect spark gap Set spark gap
Clogged pilot orifice Clean or replace
Air in gas line Purge gas line
Adjustment screw wrong Adjust pilot screw
Pilot will not stay lit Defective thermocouple Replace thermocouple
Air leakage Check for leakage
Lack of air Check for venting
Leaking control valve Check control valve
Incorrect gas pressure Set to 11 inches water-column pressure
Clogged pilot orifice Clean or replace orifice
Pilot-adjustment screw Adjust pilot-flame level
Noisy operation Low input voltage Charge or replace battery
Unbalanced blower wheel Replace blower wheel
Loose blower wheel Tighten wheel
Loud burner Adjust air shutter
Rubbing blower wheel Check clearance with housing
Main burner will not light Thermostat off Turn on thermostat
Thermostat contacts open Reset thermostat
Gas off Turn on gas supply
Empty propane tank Replenish supply
Low gas level in tank Refill tank
Low gas pressure Adjust to 11 inches water-column pressure
Low battery voltage Charge battery
Stuck sail switch Clean switch
Defective sail switch Replace switch
Defective limit switch Replace limit switch
Reversed battery polarity Check wiring
Blocked ducting Check duct hoses
Blocked air intake Check air intake
Blocked burner exhaust Clear burner exhaust
No igniter spark Check electrode lead
Incorrect spark gap Reset spark gap
Dirty module connections Clean connections
Clogged main burner jet Replace or clean jet
 CHAPTER 6 Heating Systems 6.11

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE F O R C E D - A I R F U R N A C E , c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Burner lights but shuts off (lockout) Misaligned flame sensor Adjust flame sensor
Loose sensor wire Tighten connections
Dirty sensor probe Clean probe
Defective sensor Test sensor
Defective module board Replace board
Low gas pressure Set to 11 inches water-column pressure
Low gas level in tank Refill tank
Main burner will not shut off High thermostat setting Reduce temperature setting
Stuck thermostat points Replace relay
Defective gas valve Replace gas valve
Blower will not run No or low voltage Check voltage at furnace
Blown 12-volt DC fuse Check fuse and replace if necessary
Reversed battery polarity Check wire connections
Open thermostat points Check points for closing
Locked motor Rotate by hand to check
Defective motor relay Replace relay
Defective motor Replace motor
No igniter spork Improper input polarity Check 12-volt wiring
No voltage present Check voltage at furnace
Poor electrode ground Check ground connection
Corroded connections Clean connections
Loose connections Tighten connections
Wrong spark gap Set spark gap
Broken electrode lead Replace electrode lead
Cracked insulators Replace insulators
Faulty module board Replace module board

the furnace. Chronic lockout may be attributable
to one or more of the following causes:
■ Instead of a thermocouple, the electronic fur-
nace utilizes a flame sensor. The flame sensor
is mounted next to the spark-ignition system
and is exposed to the main burner when it
lights. If the sensor is not exposed directly to
the flame, it will cause lockout. The sensor can
be bent slightly to aim it into the flame area.
* If the sensor tip is dirty and corroded, it
should be cleaned with steel wool or crocus
cloth for better heat contact.
■ The electronic sensor and control board re-
quire special testing equipment that can
measure microamps of current. Seek help at a
qualified service center.
■ Low gas pressure can reduce the flame output
to a level that is too low to activate the heat
sensor. Have gas pressure set to 11 inches of
water-column pressure.
Checking for Burner-Shutoff Failure
The opposite problem of lockout is failure for the
main burner to shut off. If this situation occurs, check
the following:
6.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 6.13 To clean the jet, the burner assembly Figure 6.14 Clean the jet with a wooden or plastic
must be removed from the gas-control valve. toothpick.

Figure 6.15 Atwood Excalibur 8500-111 (exploded view)


Figure 6.16 Suburban furnace (exploded view)
■ The thermostat must be set to a lower setting.
If this does not correct the problem, the
points in the thermostat may be stuck closed;
they can be examined by removing the ther-
mostat cover.
■ The points can also be checked with a mul-
timeter (ohms). If the multimeter reads zero
when the thermostat is turned to its lowest
temperature, the points are stuck closed. They
probably are pitted and will stick again, even
if they are manually pushed apart. Replace-
ment of the thermostat is recommended.
CHAPTER 6 Heating Systems 6.1 3
■ If the thermostat responds to temperature, the
problem may be in the gas-control valve. Re-
move the wires from the control valve while
the main burner is activated. This should al-
low the valve to shut immediately. If it does
not, the valve is defective and should be
replaced.
■ The thermostat also contains a small internal
adjustment called a heat anticipator, which can
delay furnace shutdown if it is set too high
(Figure 6.17). By moving a small lever, you
can change this setting. A move toward a
6.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 6.18 The points in the wall thermostat

Figure 6.17 Furnace heating cycles can be con-
trolled by adjusting the heat anticipator in the wall
thermostat (arrow).
smaller number will cause the furnace to shut
off sooner (a shorter heating cycle), and a
move to a larger number will cause the heater
to run longer (a longer heating cycle). Most
furnaces will cycle five to six times an hour.
Expect short cycling in warmer weather when
the inside temperature comes up to the ther-
mostat setting faster. Experiment to see which
settings give the best results. For example, the
anticipator on all hydro-flame furnaces
should be set at 1.0.
should be checked with a multimeter to insure that
proper contact is being made.
mum of 10. 5 volts are present at the furnace.
■ Crossed wires may cause the blower to fail to
operate. Make sure correct polarity is ob-
served.
■ Check the thermostat points (Figure 6.18).
If they fail to close, the motor cannot start
(Figure 6.19). The points can be manually
closed with a small screwdriver, and they can
be checked with a multimeter (ohms) to in-
sure that when they make contact, a good
connection occurs. With the wires to the ther-

Checking for Blower-Motor Failure

Failure of the blower motor to start is another fur-

nace problem that may occur. If the blower fails to
operate, the sail switch cannot close and the main
burner cannot light. Following are some problem
areas to look for if the blower motor fails to start:

■ Check the 12-volt DC fuse or circuit breaker

that protects the furnace. If the fuse is blown,
replace it with a new fuse of the proper am-
perage. If the fuse continues to fail, this is an
indication of a problem that may require ex-
pert assistance.
■ Low battery voltage can cause the furnace to Figure 6.19 The furnace motor cannot operate if
become inoperable. Make sure that a mini- the thermostat points fail to close (arrow).
 CHAPTER 6 Heating Systems 6.15

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
HYDRO FLAME THERMOSTAT

BLOWER DOES NOT RUN

Condition Solution

• Temperature selector out of place • Re-set to desired position

• Thermostat wires broken or disconnected • Repair wires
• Heat anticipator burned out • Dead short.
• Repair short then replace thermostat
• Faulty relay drawing more than 1 amp
• Replace relay and thermostat.
• No continuity through thermostat with contacts closed and switched on • Replace thermostat
• Continuity through thermostat with contacts closed and switch on • Check and re-establish power to
• Reset tripped circuit breaker.
• Correct poor ground.
• Correct any loose wires.
• Replace defective relay.
• Replace defective motor.
• Furnace cycles too quickly • Move anticipator to a higher amp setting to lengthen cycle
• High temperature variance • Move anticipator to a lower amp setting to shorten cycle

mostat removed from the furnace, there
should be a zero-ohm reading on the meter
when the points are closed.
■ Some furnaces have a motor relay that can
fail. Check with an authorized service center
for your brand of furnace.
■ If all else is determined to be good, the motor
should be removed from the furnace and
tested. If it will not function with a direct
12-volt DC hookup, it is defective and should
be replaced.
Checking for Noise
If noise is the primary complaint, it usually comes
from the blower-fan assembly but can also be caused
by an improperly burning flame or low battery volt-
age. Check the following:

■ C H E C K L I S T ■
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ FOR S P A R K F A I L U R E _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

■ Check input polarity and voltage. Corrosion of the electrode-terminal connections can create a poor ground. The sparker assembly has a side
electrode that must have a good ground in order for the spark to jump across. Check the electrode-assembly mounting screws for tightness.
Make sure they are clean to insure a good ground.
■ Connection terminals to the modular printed circuit board must be clean. Contamination by dirt can cause spark failure. Remove the terminal
connections and make sure that both the male and female parts of the plug are clean.
■ Using a flashlight, check to see that the spark gap between the sparking and ground electrodes is 1/8 inch, + or - 1/32 inch (Figures 6.20 and 6.21).

Bend only the ground electrode with needlenose pliers to establish the correct gap.
■ Cables that carry high voltages are subject to breakdown. Make sure the lead to the electrode is free of cracks. There are also ceramic insula-
tors where the cable joins the furnace combustion chamber; make sure the ceramic is not cracked. If cracks are found in either the cable or in-
sulators, replace the cable and electrode assembly.
■ If everything seems in order but still no spark appears, the failure may be in the modular control board itself. There are no on-the-road diag-
nostics; the board is simply unplugged from its mounting and replaced with a new one.
6.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 6.20 Burner head, electrode, and valve assembly

Figure 6.21 The electrode spark gap must be

1/8 inch, ± 1/32inch, in furnaces with electronic ignition.

Figure 6.22 Catalytic heater mounted on legs

■ Low voltage can cause the fan motor to run at
a less than optimal speed. The noise gener-
ated is generally a low-frequency groan. The
low blower speed can also affect combustion
in the burner chamber, allowing the flame to
make a roaring noise. The problem is easily
solved by charging the battery, replacing it if
necessary, or using campground electrical
hookups.
■ In rare cases, the blower wheel may be out of
balance or loose on the motor shaft. If this is
the case, the entire furnace must be removed
and disassembled to gain access to the fan. A
metallic scraping sound may indicate that the
blower is rubbing against the surrounding
housing. The furnace must be removed and
disassembled to correct this problem.

Checking for Spark Failure
Electronic-ignition furnaces employ a high-voltage
spark that jumps a gap, much like a spark plug, to
ignite the propane-air mixture in the combustion
chamber. If the spark fails to fire, there are several
things you can do to solve the problem. For addi-
tional information, see the Spark Failure Checklist,
page 6.15.
■ CATALYTIC HEATERS ■
Catalytic heaters (Figure 6.22) operate very efficiently.
Because there is no combustion chamber, heat ex-
changer, or exhaust to the outside, nearly all the heat
generated by a catalytic heater is released to the liv-
ing quarters. Catalytic heaters radiate infrared rays
that warm objects and people, but do not heat the
air in the enclosed area. The radiated heat is absorbed
by objects and people and is then radiated back to
heat the surrounding area.
In spite of their impressive efficiency, catalytic
heaters require provisions for fresh-air ventilation be-
cause these heaters consume oxygen. At the very min-
imum, not less than one square inch of open window
area per 1,000 Btus of heater output should be pro-
vided. For example if the catalytic heater is rated at
8,000 Btus, the absolute minimum safe ventilation
requirement would be eight square inches of open
window area to prevent depletion of the oxygen in-
side the RV. Folding camping trailers are sometimes
thought of as not being air-tight because of the fab-
ric walls. However, manufacturers of catalytic heaters
are quick to point out that the fabric, when wet, can
become almost impervious to the passage of air. So
it is important to provide adequate free-air circula-
tion when using a catalytic heater in a tent trailer.
Some catalytic heaters are equipped with oxygen
depletion sensors (ODS), which are designed to shut
off the heater when the oxygen content of air sur-
rounding the heater falls below 17.9 percent. Nor-
mal air at sea level contains 20.9 percent oxygen. A
heater equipped with an ODS system will not func-
tion at altitudes much higher than 5,000 feet, be-
cause the oxygen content of the atmosphere at that
elevation is not sufficient to satisfy the sensor.
Because there are no moving parts to wear out,
CHAPTER 6 Heating Systems 6.17
other than the control-valve assembly, manufactur-
ers of catalytic heaters do not recommend that own-
ers attempt repairs. If a problem exists with the heater,
call the manufacturer to obtain the name of an au-
thorized repair station or return it to the manufac-
turer for necessary work.
Maintaining Catalytic Heaters
Care and maintenance of a catalytic heater is rela-
tively simple. Following are a few maintenance tips,
but you will note that most of them stress that ex-
cessive cleaning is neither necessary nor desirable.
■ Do not clean the heater while it is hot.
■ Keep the heater and the area around the
heater clean and dust-free.
■ Use a damp cloth to wipe away dust or accu-
mulated grime from the grill and surrounding
housing.
■ Attempting to clean the catalyst pad will cause
damage.
■ Do not use a vacuum to clean the heater. The
silica wool element can be easily damaged by
vacuum suction.
■ Do not use compressed air to clean the heater.
Doing so will damage the pad.
■ Some manufacturers recommend that, in
order to maintain high-efficiency operation,
the catalyst pad be replaced every three years
or sooner if abnormal operation is noticed.
Troubleshooting
Even though catalytic heaters are relatively simple,
there are still some areas where trouble can show up.
■ On piezo-ignited units, if there is no spark
when the igniter button is pressed several
times, the igniter may need replacement.
■ If the thermocouple will not stay lit when the
control knob is released, the thermocouple is
either not tightly connected to the control
valve, or it is improperly positioned on the
catalyst pad, or it is faulty and needs to be
replaced. When replacing the thermocouple,
care must be taken to position the new one in
exactly the right place.
6.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
 ■ CHAPTER 7 ■
AIR-CONDITIONING
SYSTEMS
B
ecause the majority of RV travel takes place
during warm seasons, or to regions of the
country where it is relatively warm even during
winter months, personal comfort depends a great
deal upon the use of an air conditioner. It has not
been too many years ago that RV air conditioning
was reserved for large luxury motorcoaches, but
nowadays almost every RV—including small travel
trailers and campers—is equipped with air condi-
tioning. Roof-mounted air conditioners are most
common, although some luxury RVs are equipped
with central air systems. RV air conditioners are
compressor-type units and work on the same oper-
ating principle as residential air conditioners.
■ COMPRESSOR AIR CONDITIONERS ■
Compressor-type air conditioners (Figures 7.1, 7.2
and 7.3) are capable of transferring heat from one
place to another, because the laws of physics dic-
tate that heat tends to move toward cold. In order to
remove heat from the interior of an RV, a refrigerant
(Figure 7.4) is circulated through a closed system
that includes an evaporator, where the refrigerant ab-
sorbs heat from the interior of the RV and then va-
porizes. The refrigerant is then routed through the
condenser, where the heat is removed and dissipated
outside the RV.
A secondary benefit of an air-conditioning system
is that, as it cools the interior air, it also acts as a de-
humidifier, and dry air is more comfortable than hu-
mid air. When moisture in the atmosphere comes
in contact with the cold evaporator, it condenses into
water droplets (like water condensing on a glass of
cold water). The process removes excess moisture, al-
lowing it to drain from the air conditioner. When you
see water dripping from the roof of your RV while the
air conditioner is operating, this is the moisture that
has been removed from the interior of the RV.
Working on an air conditioner system involves
certain potential hazards. RV owners should be
especially careful before proceeding with any type of
maintenance or repair on one of these systems, be-
cause high-pressure refrigerant and 120-volt AC power
are involved. For the sake of safety, the sealed com-
pressor/refrigerant system should not be opened or
tampered with by the owner. This is a complex job
best left to the experts. However, there are certain
procedures that owners should follow to detect prob-
lems, or better yet, prevent them from occurring,
through proper maintenance.
Operation During Cool Nights
When the outside temperature drops to below 75 °F,
the air-conditioner thermostat should be set to a mid-
point between "warmer" and "cooler" to prevent ice
buildup on the evaporator coil.
If ice-up occurs, it is necessary to turn off the air
conditioner to allow the coil to defrost before re-
suming normal operation. During the defrost pe-
riod, operate the fan in the maximum airflow
position. Airflow will be reduced by the blockage of
7.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 7.1 Dometic roof-mounted compressor-type air conditioner (exploded view)

 CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.3

Figure 7.2 Coleman roof-mounted compressor-type air conditioner (exploded view)

7.4 The RV Repair & maintenance manual

Figure 7.3 Carrier Air V roof-mounted compressor-type air conditioner (exploded view)
 CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.5

Figure 7.4 Operation and path of refrigerant in RV compressor type air conditioners

the ice during this period. When the ice has melted ditioner not be operated without a filter in place. To
from the coil, airflow will return to normal. do so invites problems, as lint, dirt, grease, and other
airborne contaminants accumulate in the cooling coil.
This can lead to loss of air volume and possible icing-
Servicing Compressor Air Conditioners up of the cooling coil and can result in serious dam-
age to the unit's operating components.
Other than insuring that the AC voltage supply is
proper, keeping the roof-mounted air conditioner
unit clean is the most important routine service pro-
cedure the owner can perform. To help maintain a
clean air conditioner, the roof-top unit should be
kept covered in the off-season to prevent dirt, debris,
and small animals from getting inside.
Once a year, remove the cover shroud (Figure 7.5)
and, using compressed air, blow the dust, bugs, leaves,
and other debris out of the unit. Another effective clean-
ing method is to give the air conditioner the once-over
with a shop vacuum or other hose-type vacuum cleaner.
Moving to the inside, remove the ceiling cover fre-
quently (Figures 7.6 and 7.7) and wash or replace the
intake filter pads. A recommendation from most roof
air manufacturers is that the intake filters should be Figure 7.5 The air-conditioner shroud should be
cleaned or changed at least every two weeks during removed once a year in order to blow out the unit
periods of contlnuous use. It is critical that the air con- with compressed air.
7.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE C O M P R E S S O R A I R C O N D I T I O N E R

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Unit will not run No 120-volt AC power Connect to power source

Tripped 120-volt breaker Reset circuit breaker

Defective on/off switch Replace switch

Loose connector plug Check connection integrity
Defective on/off switch Replace main switch
Fan runs too slowly Poor electrical contact Check all connections
Low line voltage Check supply voltage
Undersized power cord Replace with proper size
Tight motor shaft Check shaft
Blower/fan misaligned Check alignment
Intake filters clogged Clean or replace filters
Fan runs but compressor will not engage Low voltage Inspect supply output
Undersized power cord Replace with correct size
Starting capacitor Replace capacitor
Improper temperature setting Reset thermostat
Defective thermostat Replace thermostat

Defective time delay Replace delay switch

High compressor pressure Defective time-delay switch
Defective compressor Replace compressor
Compressor will not cycle off Thermostat set too low Set to warmer temperature
Clogged condenser coils Clean condenser
Excess heat gain Reduce heat gain areas
Iced-over evaporator Turn system off to melt ice

Stuck thermostat switch Replace switch

Low refrigerant charge Recharge unit

Figure 7.6 Intake filter pads are easily accessed

from inside the RV and should be cleaned every two
weeks during continuous use. Figure 7.7 Wash or replace the intake filter pads.

Cleaning and/or Replacing Filters
To service the filters inside the control shroud:
1. Remove the selector switch and thermostat
knobs from the ceiling assembly.
2. Remove the screws that hold the shroud to
the ceiling assembly.
3. Lower the shroud and carefully slide it off the
control knobs.
4. Remove the filters and either clean them or
replace them with new filters.
5. Reverse the procedure to replace the shroud
and control knobs.
To service the filters, accessible from the outside
of the ceiling shroud:
1. Apply pressure on the grill tabs and remove
access cover.
2. Remove rubber-band retainers holding the
filter.
3. Remove the filter.
4. Clean filter with soap and water and let air
dry—do not wring out.
5. Reverse procedure when filter is dry.
Checking for Air-Conditioner
Operating Failures
All air conditioners operate on 120-volt AC power
and certain models with electronic controls require
12-volt DC wired to the control board. If you are ex-
periencing no or poor air-conditioner performance,
the first thing you should do is verify that the power
requirements are being satisfied. The operating range
for the control boards is between 10 and 16 volts DC;
if voltage is below 10 volts, you could experience
problems with the operation of the components
within the main board. Models using a separate ther-
mostat normally use a 12-volt DC power supply for
control operation. Check for 12-volt DC power first.
If power here is verified, the next step is to check the
incoming AC power supply.
CAUTION; Any 120-volt AC power source can be dangerous and can
deliver a fatal shock. If you're not certain of the procedures for working
with 120-volt AC, seek qualified help.
CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.7
Safe Procedures Checklist
■ Check 120-volt AC voltage by using a multi-
meter that has been set to monitor 120-volt
AC. Insert the probe into any convenient out-
let inside the RV (see page 1.4). It's always a
good practice to check the incoming voltage
from the available hookups or the onboard
AC generator after arriving in the camp-
ground. The proper operating range is
between 103 and 126 volts AC. Most air con-
ditioners are equipped with thermal-overload
protection systems that will shut down the
compressor if it becomes overheated.
Overheating is caused by low voltage. As volt-
age drops, current rises, creating abnormal
heat. Most thermal-overload controls will
shut down the compressor by the time volt-
age drops to between 100 and 103 volts AC.
The newer electronically controlled air condi-
tioners have electronic-threshold protection
built into the circuit that automatically shuts
down the compressor when voltage drops to
between 103 and 107 volts AC. If voltage is
hovering in the 108- to 110-volt AC area
while hooked up, monitor the multimeter
periodically because the voltage may drop
further when other users get on the line. If
the compressor is still running at 105 volts
AC, the air conditioner should be turned off
until proper voltage is restored.
WARNING: Most common extension cords are inade-
quately sized for their length and should not be used in con-
junction with the RV's power cord (Table 7.1).
■ If there is no power present when using the
onboard AC generator (if your RV is so
equipped), make sure the power cord is
plugged into its proper receptacle. Usually
Table 7.1 Extension Cord Amperage Ratings
Length Maximum
Gauge (feet) amps
12 1-50 20
12 51-100 15
14 1-50 15
14 51-100 13
16 1-50 13
16 51-100 9.8
18 1-50 9.8
18 1-100 5.8
7.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

this receptacle is located inside the same

compartment as the AC generator. Check the
main breaker and the individual breaker for
the air conditioner. If either is tripped, reset
and try the air conditioner again. Continual
tripping of the breakers is an indication of
either excessive amperage draw by the air
conditioner itself, low voltage, or a defective
breaker. If the AC generator is the source of
power, check the circuit breaker in the AC-
generator control panel. If no power is com-
ing from the campground outlet, check the
breaker in the power receptacle box at the
Figure 7.9 A manual-type main on/off switch can
campground. If there is a problem here, con-
be checked with a multimeter.
tact campground personnel for assistance.
■ If it is determined that 120-volt AC power is
available and no breakers are tripped, the the ceiling-shroud assembly and wires from
problem may be at the connector terminal the on/off switch. Make a note of the proper
wire location. With a multimeter, check the
under the air-conditioner ceiling shroud. To
check this connection, turn off all power and continuity from one side of the switch to the
remove the screws that hold the control/ other. When the switch is in the off position
access panel to the ceiling. Pull the panel there should be infinite resistance between
down. Check that the wires are connected the two points. When the switch is turned to
properly and that the connector (if so the on position, the resistance should be
equipped) is plugged in and tight (Figure zero. If not, a new switch should be installed.
7.8). Turn on the power. If the unit will not ■ A new switch can be installed by removing
start at this point, seek help from a qualified the retaining nut and connection wires from
air-conditioner service technician. the switch and pulling it free from its mount.
■ If the main on/off switch is a manual type Note the location of the wiring. Install a new
and not a solid-state electronic switch, it can switch in the reverse order.
be checked with a multimeter-ohms as ■ If all these checks fail, then the cause may be
shown in Figure 7.9. To check the switch, a shorted or burned-out motor. Seek quali-
turn off the 120-volt AC power and remove fied electrical help to determine the condi-
tion of the motor and compressor assembly.

Checking for Fan-Operating Problems

If the fan runs at a speed that is too slow, check these

points:

■ Low voltage will cause slow running speed.

Measure the voltage present as detailed
on page 7.7.
■ The fan-motor shaft may be too tight. A tight
fan-motor shaft can be tested by removing
Figure 7.8 Loss of 120-volt AC power to the air
the outside cover shroud and spinning the
conditioner may be attributed to a loose connector fan by hand with the power turned off. Many
terminal under the ceiling shroud. fan motors have a small oil cup on the top of
 CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.9

Checking for Compressor Failure

It is possible that the fan motor will operate correctly,

but the compressor will not engage and no cooling
will result. This can be caused by several factors.
To check the compressor:

1. Turn off the circuit breaker for the air

Figure 7.10 The fan motor should be lubricated
with SAE 20-weight oil once a year.
the motor. Remove the plastic plug from the
cup and place three or four drops of SAE
20-weight nondetergent oil in the cup once a
year (Figure 7.10). Do not over-oil. If the
motor continues to be slow and tight, the
bearings have failed and should be replaced
by a qualified service technician.
■ Dirty intake filters will reduce airflow.
Periodic cleaning or replacement of the filters
is necessary, as described on page 7.7.
conditioner.
2. Remove the cover from the air conditioner.
3. Disconnect the wires from the Common,
Start, and Run terminals (Figure 7.11).
4. Using an ohmmeter at the lowest scale, check
for continuity between all three terminals. A
lack of continuity between these three termi-
nals indicates faulty windings and the com-
pressor should be replaced.
5. If there is continuity between the terminals,
the next test requires that you scrape some
paint from the side of the compressor and
check for continuity between each terminal
and the casing. A reading indicates that the
windings are shorted to the casing and the
compressor must be replaced.
The overload protector (Figure 7.12) will open
the AC volts circuit to the compressor if it has over-

Figure 7.11 Checking continuity at common, start, and run terminals

7.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 7.12 Overload protector is designed to open AC-volts circuit when the compressor becomes overheated
heated due to an electrical problem. A weak over-
load protector will cause the compressor to start and
stop rapidly or short cycle. This can be a very diffi-
cult problem to test and identify. To test, turn off the
circuit breaker for the air conditioner. Let the unit
cool to ambient temperature and measure the con-
tinuity across its terminals. If open, the unit must be
replaced. Make sure to use an exact replacement.
Check the following if the compressor fails to
turn on:
■ The time-delay circuit may be defective. This
circuit prevents the compressor from coming
on before the head pressure is depleted.
Failure to deplete the head pressure can dam-
age the compressor. The time-delay
circuit/switch should only be repaired by a
qualified service technician.
■ The freeze switch may be inoperative. This
would tell the control board that the evapo-
rator is frozen and not allow the compressor
start relay to operate.
■ The air-conditioner thermostat determines
when the compressor will start. Make sure
the thermostat is set to a sufficiently cool
temperature.
■ If these steps fail to restore cooling, the tem-
perature-sensing-bulb mechanism that sends
a signal to the thermostat may be defective or
improperly placed. The thermostat may also
be defective. Seek a qualified service techni-
cian to test these components.
■ If the motor does not start easily and quickly,
the capacitor (an electrical storage device)
may be defective. When a signal is sent from
the thermostat, calling for more cooling, the
capacitor dumps its stored power to the
motor, providing an extra boost for a few sec-
onds to get it going. Seek authorized service
to check the capacitor circuits.
NOTE: The electric power stored in these starting capaci-
tors is enough to provide a severe shock. Use extreme caution
when working around them (Figure 7.13).
■ When the air-conditioning unit has been
operating for a while, but the compressor
fails to restart, the problem may be in the
start-delay circuit. This circuit permits the
compressor to rest for a few minutes between
cycles, allowing pressure in the system to
equalize. If the compressor tried to start
immediately after shutting off, there would
be excessive pressure against the pistons,
which would make starting difficult. The

Figure 7.13 Electric power is stored in starting capacitors
delay circuit allows this pressure to subside
after each cycle. If the switch is defective, it
may not close again when a signal from the
thermostat calls for cooling. Seek authorized
service for this difficulty.
■ The compressor motor could be burned out.
Seek qualified help to determine the condi-
tion of the compressor assembly.
Checking for Failure of Compressor to Shut Off
The opposite problem occurs when the compressor
refuses turn off. Several areas can be checked for this
condition:
■ Check to see that the thermostat is not set
too low. If it is set on maximum cold, the
unit will run excessively.
■ Make sure the condenser coils are clean and
unclogged. If not, the unit will be unable to
cool to its full potential. This causes the unit
to run excessively to compensate for the inef-
ficiency. Remove the exterior cover shroud
and vacuum or blow out the coils to remove
dirt (Figure 7.14). Carefully straighten the
cooling fins if they are bent (Figure 7.15).
They are delicate, but the job can be done
with a dull pocket knife blade or using a fin
comb (available at RV supply stores).
■ Continuous running may be the result of
excessive heat gain. That is, the rate that the
RV absorbs heat is faster than the air condi-
tioner can remove heat. In this case, the unit
CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.11
will never shut down. Make sure all windows
and doors are closed. Sunlight causes a great
deal of heat gain, so if the RV is parked in
direct sunlight, move it to a shady spot, if
possible. If the condition persists, the ambi-
ent temperature is simply too hot for the air
conditioner to overcome—the air conditioner
is not large enough to deal with the volume
of heat it is receiving.
■ During extended operation in hot, humid
weather, the evaporator coils may actually
freeze up. This will cause the compressor to
run continually but fail to cool adequately
because the airflow over the coils is blocked
by ice. To correct this situation, keep RV
doors and windows closed as much as possi-
ble, so that no additional heat and humidity
is allowed inside. Take care not to release
large amounts of heat and steam while cook-
ing. If these things cannot be avoided, set the
air-conditioner thermostat to a slightly
warmer temperature, permitting the compres-
sor to cycle off more frequently, which will
melt ice buildup on the compressor coils. If
the buildup is very heavy, the air conditioner
should be shut down for a period of time
until the ice melts (thirty minutes is usually
adequate).
■ Thermostat switch contacts can become stuck
together, which will cause the compressor to
continue running even though the thermo-
stat is dialed to a warmer setting. If this is
suspected, seek qualified assistance in testing
and replacing the thermostat assembly.
7.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 7.14 The condenser coils in an air condition-
er must be kept clean to insure optimum efficiency
Figure 7.15 Condenser coil fins that have become
bent should be carefully straightened with a knife or
screwdriver.
■ Another possible cause of compressor run-on
is a lack of R-22 type refrigerant. This can
only be determined with a pressure test by
qualified service personnel. If the system is
low on refrigerant, there is probably a leak in
the system, requiring repair before recharging
takes place. The Clean Air Act of 1990 set
guidelines regarding the recapturing and
disposition of refrigerants. An authorized
air-conditioner service facility should be con-
tacted to deal with these problems. Make
sure the technician knows that refrigerant can
permanently damage a rubber roof (see
page 17.4).
Figure 7.16 A watertight seal along the evaporator
bulkhead separates two compartments.
Checking for Mechanical Integrity
Periodically inspect the air conditioner to make sure
the bolts and nuts that hold the unit to the roof of the
RV are tight and in good condition. Inspect the shroud
to make sure it is being held securely to the unit and
is not developing cracks or has not been damaged.
The drain hole in the drain-pan area should be
inspected periodically. This must be kept clean, or
the water removed from the inside of the RV will not
be able to drain off properly.
The evaporator bulkhead in the rear section of the
air conditioner, which contains the compressor, the
blower motor, and the condenser coil, is designed to
dispose of any water that may enter. A watertight seal
must exist along the entire bulkhead that separates
the two compartments (Figure 7.16). Check for
sealant along this section and add sealant to any area
where none is visible. Note that the sealed portion
extends up the sides of the unit.
Basement-type Air Conditioners
The basement air conditioner (Figure 7.17) sequence
of operation and general maintenance is the same as
the roof-mounted type. Basement air conditioners
come in two basic models: a single-stage system, which
is very similar to the roof-mounted counterpart, and
a two-stage cooling unit.

Figure 7.17 Typical locations for basement-type air conditioners
The largest difference between the roof and base-
ment systems is the location of the unit and the air-
distribution system. The basement unit is mounted
in the lower section of the RV in an accessible com-
partment. Preventive maintenance must be performed
to insure that components remain free of dirt and
trash that could potentially block the vents around
the unit (Figure 7.18). The air filter must be changed
every three months and checked monthly during use.
Two-stage Cooling Units
Two-stage basement air conditioners, incorporating
a dual-compressor refrigeration system that provides
the cooling capacity of two roof-mounted air con-
ditioners into one efficient and compact package, are
designed for RVs with 50-amp service. In a two-stage
air conditioner, the first compressor and refrigera-
tion circuit are referred to as first-stage cooling. The
second compressor and refrigeration circuit are called
second-stage cooling.
The first- and second-stage cooling units are con-
nected to separate electrical circuits. The ability to
operate the second-stage unit depends upon the elec-
trical power source available. When the RV is hooked
up to only 30-amp 120-volt AC power, the system
will automatically limit operation to the first stage.
If 50-amp hookup power is available, or the RV is
being powered by an onboard AC generator, the sys-
tem automatically allows for operation of both first-
and second-stage cooling units.
CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.13
Winnebago TrueAir Basement Air Conditioner
Winnebago offers the TrueAir Residential Central
Air-Conditioning system on many of its product lines.
The system is located in a basement storage com-
partment, on the passenger side of the coach behind
a louvered panel. The panel can be opened for rou-
tine maintenance or service.
Just like a residential central air-conditioning sys-
tem, it is controlled by a wall thermostat. Two large
blowers direct the cool air through ceiling ducts, and
the return-air passes through a filter system beneath
the rear bed.
Maintenance
Routing maintenance of the TrueAir system is rel-
atively simple, involving only the air filter and the
condenser coils.
Filter
The disposable furnace-type filter measures 14
inches x 20 inches x 1 inch. It is located in a slide-
in bracket inside the passenger side of the rear bed
cabinet. To access the filter, lift the foot of the bed
mattress board. The board is hinged and is supported
by pneumatic struts when open. The filter is tightly
fit between the return-air duct and the side of the
bed cabinet. Simply slide the filter out of its bracket
7.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 7.18 Duo-Therm return system for basement-type air-conditioning systems

Figure 7.19 Many air conditioners are equipped with heat strips that consist of grids of electrical wiring.

for inspection. If the old filter is dirty, replace it with
a new one. When installing the new filter, take care
to ensure that the airflow arrows are pointing in
the right direction.
NOTE: Make sure the filter is not blocked by setting anything against
the bed cabinet where the return-air is located. There must be free flow
of return-air in order for the air conditioner to function properly.
Condenser Coils
The condenser is positioned in the basement com-
partment that houses the air conditioner unit. It is
behind a louvered panel on the passenger side of the
coach. Remove the screws beneath the lower edge of
the panel, then swing the panel up out of the way on
its hinge. With the louvered panel open, look for the
large, black, rectangular item that has the appearance
of a car radiator. That's the condenser coil.
Maintenance of the condenser coil consists of
keeping it clean and free of debris. Gently sweep the
coil fins to remove bugs, dust, or other debris. Rinse
the fins with clean water to help remove contami-
nants.
Air-Conditioner Heat Strips
Some compressor-type air-conditioning units are
equipped with, or can be optionally equipped with,
heat strips. These are grids of electrical wiring con-
nected to a thermostat temperature-control system
within the air conditioner (Figure 7.19). When the
heat strip is turned on, the fan in the air conditioner
circulates air; the heat strips warm the incoming air
■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G
THE H E A T S T R I P
Problem Possible Cause
No heat No 120-volt AC power
Tripped breaker
Low voltage
Loose connection
Defective switch
Defective thermostat
Burned-out strip
CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.15
before routing it to the RV interior. Heat strips re-
quire 120-volt AC power. It must be noted that heat
strips are not intended to replace the use of an RV
furnace for general comfort heating purposes, but
they are capable of taking a minor chill out of the
air in the morning.
Servicing Heat Strips
To diagnose the heat strip, you must first turn off the
air-conditioner circuit breaker and then remove the
cover inside the RV. Next, unplug the heater strip and,
using an ohmmeter, take a reading across the two
wiring terminals of the heat strip. You should have an
ohm reading of 9.5 ohms plus/minus 10 percent. If
the readings are outside these parameters, you need
to replace the heat strip. To test the heater-limit switch,
check for continuity across the limit-switch terminals
with the limit switch at room temperature. If you have
an open-limit switch, you will need to replace it. Also
check the heater plug to make sure the heat strip is
properly connected to it.
CAUTION: Remember, 120-volt AC power can be dangerous. It is best
to seek qualified help when in doubt.
Heat-Pump Systems
A heat pump (Figure 7.20) is designed to work in ge-
ographically mild areas in temperatures above 40 °F.
During the heating mode, heat is removed from the
outside air and released into the inside of the RV.
When the temperature falls below 40 ° F, there's not
enough heat in the air that can be removed.
■
Correction
Check for power
Reset breaker
Check voltage level
Inspect connections
Replace switch
Replace thermostat
Replace strip
7.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
The heat-pump system works best utilizing a wall
thermostat so that it can work in series with the RV's
furnace. When the outdoor ambient temperature
drops below 400 F, the RV's primary heating system
is activated. If the heat pump did not cut off at 400 F,
it would begin to accumulate frost and the coils
would eventually ice up. The heat pump would con-
tinue to run if the coils iced up, but it would no longer
produce heat. The Comfort Control Center has a de-
frost system that allows continued operation in out-
door ambient temperature as low as 24 ° F.
A heat pump works in two modes: heating and
cooling. Refrigerant is reversed depending on the cy-
cle. The system utilizes a compressor, evaporator and
condenser coils, reversing valve, capillary tubes, an
air-movement system (fan), and, of course, refrig-
erant. The evaporator and condenser act as either the
inside or outside coils, depending on the operation
cycle. When heat is called for, the compressor sends
a high-pressure vapor to the reversing valve that routes
the vapor to the inside coil, which in the heating
mode is the condenser coil.
High-pressure vapor enters the condenser, where
it is cooled and condensed to liquid as it passes
through the coil. Heat removed from the refrigerant
is expelled to the inside air via the fan. Refrigerant
leaves the condenser as high-pressure liquid. When
Cooling Mode
Figure 7.20 Cooling and heating modes of a typical heat-pump system
the high-pressure liquid leaves the condenser, it passes
through small capillary tubes, acting as the metering
device in the sealed system.
A controlled amount of high-pressure liquid re-
frigerant enters the evaporator from the capillary tube.
When this liquid reaches the low-pressure atmos-
phere of the evaporator, it turns into vapor. During
this process, heat is removed from the air flowing
through the evaporator, and the cool air is returned
to the ambient air via the blower assembly.
Low-pressure vapor from the evaporator returns
to the reversing valve that routes the low-pressure
vapor to the compressor through a suction line, start-
ing the heating process again.
Maintenance for the heat-pump system is basically
the same as for standard air-conditioning units, with
the major difference being the control system.
■ Dometic Heat and Air Conditioning ■
Electronic Thermostat
This thermostat controls 12-volt DC heating and
air-conditioning systems (Figure 7.21). It can control
Heating Mode

one stage of heat and two stages of cooling.
Changeover from heating to cooling is operator con-
trolled; the thermostat cannot make this change. Time
delay circuits have been incorporated to protect the
cooling system components. The time delay is three
minutes between OFF and ON cycles. There is a 30-
second delay when the compressors turn on. This
allows time for the AC generator to stabilize on ini-
tial starting. The balance of the delay (2.5 minutes)
occurs when the compressor cycles off. This is to al-
low the compressor pressures to balance before restart-
ing. There is a 30-second delay and two degrees
between first and second stage cooling operation.
Operation
The air conditioner is operated from the control
panel of the electronic wall thermostat. When the
furnace is connected to this thermostat, it will op-
erate from the same control panel. Identification and
operational descriptions for all control panel switches
and display are listed below:
Liquid Crystal Display
This display will be illuminated any time the sys-
tem is in operation.
The display shows the operator both the mode of
the display (indicated by the arrow at the left side of
Figure 7.21 Dometic electronic wall thermostat
CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.17
the display) and the temperature for that mode. There
are three display modes: ACTUAL, COOL and HEAT.
The operator may choose the mode to view by de-
pressing the MODE switch. Each time the MODE
switch is depressed, the display advances to the next
mode. If the display is left in either COOL or HEAT,
the thermostat will automatically return the dis-
play to ACTUAL in approximately three minutes.
A description of the three modes is:
■ Acutal: When in this mode, the display is in-
dicating current room temperature.
■ Cool Set: When in this mode, the display is
indicating the current cooling set-point tempera-
ture. At this time the cooling system set-point tem-
perature may be adjusted up or down to meet the
individual comfort level. See "Adjusting Set-Point"
(page 7.18) for further instructions.
■ Heat Set: When in this mode, the display is
indicating the current heating system set-point
temperature. At this time, the heating system set-
point temperature may be adjusted up or down to
meet the operator's comfort level. (See Adjusting
Set-Point, page 7.18 for further instructions).
All three display modes can be accessed without
affecting the operation of the system. The system op-
eration will remain normal unless a change is made
to the set-point to force a change in the system op-
eration.
System Switch
The system switch has four positions to control
the operation of the heating and cooling systems.
They are as follows:
■ Cool: When in the COOL position, first and
second stage cooling will cycle from the cooling
system set-point. Blower operation will be con-
trolled by the position of the Cooling Fan Switch.
■ Heat: When in this position, the heating sys-
tem will cycle from the heating system set-point.
The heating blower will operate per the heating
system manufacturer specifications.
■ Off: When in the OFF position, no thermo-
stat or system operation will occur. The liquid crys-
tal display will indicate room temperature until
back-up power is depleted (approximately two
minutes).
7.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ Fan: When in the fan position, the blower
will operate continuously at high speed.
Cooling Fan Switch
The fan switch has four positions to control the
operation of the cooling blower. The fan switch con-
trols operation of the cooling blower only after the
system switch is placed into the COOL position. With
the system switch in any other position, the fan switch
will have no affect on the operation of the cooling
blower. Fan switch positions and their resulting func-
tions are:
■ High Auto: When in the high auto position,
the cooling blower operates at high speed and cy-
cles OFF and ON with the first stage compressor.
The second stage cooling will cycle ON and OFF as
needed.
■ Low Auto: When in LOW AUTO position, the
cooling blower operates at low speed and cycles
OFF and ON with the first stage compressor, the
second stage cooling will cycle ON and OFF as
needed.
■ High and Low On: When in the HIGH or
LOW ON positions, the cooling blower operates
continuously. The first and second stage compres-
sors cycle OFF and ON as needed.
Momentary Switches
Momentary Switches are activated by depressing
the center of the switch. There are three momen-
tary switches:
■ Mode: Depressing this switch advances the
display mode from ACTUAL to COOL, HEAT and
back to ACTUAL. When using this switch, you are
indicating your desire to check or adjust the set-
point temperatures for cooling or heating. The
cooling setting determines the temperature at
which the air conditioner will start to operate. The
heat setting determines the temperature at which
the heating system will start to operate.
■ Up: Depressing this switch increases the tem-
perature set-point.
■ Down: Depressing this switch decreases the
temperature set-point.
Adjusting Set-Point
To adjust the set-point for heating or cooling, press
the MODE button until the arrow on the display in-
dicates the desired set-point you wish to change, cool
or heat. The display will indicate the current set point
of the thermostat. Press UP or DOWN to change the
set-point. Once the new desired set-point is displayed,
press the MODE button until the arrow is pointing
to ACTUAL. If the thermostat is left in the COOL or
HEAT mode, the display will return to ACTUAL in
about three minutes. After the display returns to AC-
TUAL, it takes 15 to 30 seconds for the thermostat
to recognize the changes made to the set-point.
Maintenance
Air Filter
The air conditioner will operate more efficiently
with a clean filter. Replace the filter with a new one
every three months.
To maintain efficient operation, the exposed con-
denser coil should be cleaned as often as necessary
to keep it free of dirt and debris. Be careful not to
damage the coil fins when cleaning.
Servicing
If service work is needed, contact your dealer or
the nearest authorized service center. When requesting
service, always give complete model and serial num-
bers. These numbers are located on the left side of
the condenser bulkhead.
Before Contacting A Serviceman
There are several built-in features that may auto-
matically shut off the unit under abnormal operat-
ing conditions. If the unit should shut off, here are
some things to check before contacting a service cen-
ter.
■ Wait 15 to 30 minutes to see if unit will re-
sume operation.
■ Check thermostat for correct setting.
 CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.19

■ Check fuses on electrical supply in the vehicle.

■ Check the filter (indoor section); make sure it
is clean.
■ Check the condenser coil to be sure it is clean.
■ Check the screen covering the outlet side of
the condenser section to be sure it is not obstructed.

■ RVP Multiple Zone Thermostat Controller ■

The RVP 8330 series thermostat (Figure 7.22) can in-

dependently control four zones of heat and cold in
Figure 7.22 RVP multiple zone thermostat con- an RV. The thermostat is designed to display the cur-
troller rent zone, temperature set, current temperature and

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
R V P M U L T I - Z O N E C O N T R O L L E R

Problem Possible Cause

N o display on LCD No power to thermostat (Remove ceiling assembly grille and

look in round opening of control box for green LED light.
Light not displayed, there is no power to control box). Fuse on
thermostat may have opened.
Heat or Cool displays on thermostat, but can't modify settings Appliances may not be installed on this coach, check home-
owners packet.
"Er" displaying on thermostat Current temperature may be outside operating range of ther-
mostat.
External room sensor circuit may be disrupted. Contact service
technician.
Temperature does not change on thermostat when unit is running Current temperature may be outside display range of thermostat
(Thermostat designed to show 41-103 deg. F.).
Appliances not responding to thermostat setting changes Zone or appliance settings on upper control boards may not be
correct for zones or appliances installed.
Built-in delay for communication signal.
Setpoint cannot be adjusted Check setting of thermostat (Setpoint cannot be adjusted when
slide switch is set to OFF, COOL or HEAT mode is set to OFF, the
zone is turned OFF, or FAN is set to run HIGH or LOW continu-
ously.
GAS flashing on LCD display Backup heat source is energized to supplement primary heat.
Backup heat source running with Heat Pump idle Heat pump is unable to keep up with heating demand, system
locks out heat pump for 2 hours ond backup heat becomes pri-
mary heat source for those 2 hours.
Two or more units have identical operation Upper unit control boards may be set to same zone. Have
service technician check.
Unit not responding Communication signal lost to that zone and control board has
a flashing green LED (Signal wire might have vibrated loose).
The system locks out operation below 9.75 volts DC.
7.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

fan speed. cooling. Evaporative coolers operate on the princi-

There is a twenty second delay when changing the
fan speed from low to high. This is a designed de-
lay to prevent data communication noise problems.
If power is lost to the controller, check the 2-amp
fast-acting fuse located on the base of the thermo-
stat. The green LED indicates that the control volt-
age is adequate to run the system. When the LED is
not lighted, there is a problem with the 12-volt DC
system.
■ EVAPORATIVE COOLERS ■
One of the laws of physics is that evaporation causes
ple that air passes through a water-soaked mat or
screen, which cools the air as the water evaporates.
The evaporative-cooler fan is usually powered by a
12-volt DC electric motor. A 12-volt DC pump is
used to distribute water to the absorbent evapora-
tion mat while the fan blows air across the mat.
The cooler's reservoir is filled either by a connec-
tion to the RV's water pump via a float-control valve,
or by manually filling with a hose from an outside
water source. Most reservoirs hold enough water for
a day's cooling—about five gallons. Evaporative cool-
ers are best suited to dry climates where the humid-
ity is low. In areas of high humidity, the cooling effect
of an evaporative unit is substantially reduced.

■ CHECKLIST ■
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ THE E V A P O R A T I V E C O O L E R _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

■ Check the condition of the RV battery. If the voltage is low, the unit may fail to run.
■ Locate the 12-volt DC fuse panel in the RV, and check the condition of the fuse in the circuit supplying power to the cooler. Use a multime-
ter to check the fuse.
■ Check the condition of the wiring connections; gain access by removing the ceiling cover on the cooler. The cooler wires are usually tied
together with wire nuts. Make sure they are tight and free of corrosion. Check these connections with a multimeter to insure that current
flows to this point. Make sure there is a good ground and the electrical polarity (positive to positive, negative to negative) is correct.
■ Locate the on/off switch and determine with the multimeter if power flows to thot point. Then turn on the switch and check to see if power
is available at the motor side of the switch. If power is not available, the switch needs replacing.
■ If power is confirmed, check to see that the motor shaft is free to turn. If it is not, try to free it by hand (Figure 7.23). If the shaft is stuck,
the motor may need replacement.
■ If the pump is clogged or jammed and will not rotate, it could be drawing enough amperage to prevent the fan motor from running. With
the switch in the on position, make sure 12 volts are present at the pump motor. If there is power to the pump motor and it will not rotate,
it is probably seized and will require replacement. These pumps are usually a one-piece assembly with no provision for repair.

Figure 7.24 Evaporative coolers use a float to

Figure 7.23 The fan-motor shaft in evaporative open the water reservoir valve. If the float valve is
coolers can be freed by hand to turn in most cases. stuck, a few drops of penetrating oil may free it.
 CHAPTER 7 Air-Conditioning Systems 7.21

Servicing Evaporative Coolers
Periodic cleaning of evaporative coolers is necessary
to prevent operational difficulties. Algae can build
up in the water pump, reservoir, and distribution
lines. Dirt may accumulate on the evaporative mat,
severely reducing airflow. It is good maintenance
practice to keep the cooler covered during the off-sea-
son and when it is not in use. This prevents dirt and
grime from entering. Periodic replacement of the ab-
sorbent evaporation mats is to be expected.
Checking for Failure of Cooler to Operate
best. The air simply does not feel very cold as
it leaves the cooler because the evaporation
rate is low during high-humidity weather,
thus reducing the system's effectiveness.
■ Check the water level in the reservoir. If it is
low, cooling will be reduced.
■ If the cooler is equipped with a float-valve
control for the reservoir's water level, remove
the outside cover from the cooler and check
to see that the float drops, opening the water
valve (Figure 7.24). A small amount of pene-
trating oil applied to the float-valve pivot
usually will free it.

If the evaporative cooler fails to operate properly, con-

sult the Evaporative-Cooler Checklist on page 7.20.

Checking for Failure of Unit to Cool

Another condition that results in failure to cool is

when the fan operates, circulating air through the
unit, but resulting in no cool air. Here is a list of pos-
sible causes for this situation.
■ If the outdoor temperature (over 85 0 F) and
humidity (50 percent or more) are high, it Figure 7.25 Evaporative cooler pads must be kept
is likely the evaporative cooler is doing its clean and should be replaced every two years.

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE E V A P O R A T I V E C O O L E R

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Unit will not run Blown 12-volt fuse Test and replace fuse
Loose wiring connection Check connection tightness
Dead battery Charge or replace battery
Stuck fan shaft Rotate by hand to free
Stuck pump shaft Remove and clean pump
Unit will not cool High-humidity condition No correction possible
Low water level Replenish water supply
Stuck float valve Free float valve
Inoperative pump Check pump condition
Clogged water passages Clean unit
Dirty evaporative mat Clean or replace
Inoperative fan Check fan motor
7.22 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
The cooler will not function unless adequate
water is supplied to the absorbent pad by the
pump. Remove the exterior cover and insure
that there are 12 volts DC present at the
pump motor when the switch is in the on
position. If the pump does not operate, it
should be replaced.
If the pump runs normally, it may fail to
pump adequately if any of the associated
plumbing or hoses are kinked or choked with
debris or mineral deposits. When checking
the pump, scrutinize the passages that the
water must travel through to get to the pad. If
there is any sign of clogging, the outlet hose
from the pump can be removed and pressure-
flushed with a garden hose to remove debris.
■ Failure to cool could be due to a dirty
absorbent pad. The accumulation of dirt on
the pad reduces its ability to hold water
and allow air to pass through, resulting in
reduced cooling. Most pads can be cleaned
by washing with a pressure (garden) hose to
remove dirt. These pads are not expensive,
so it is a good idea to replace them every
few years. Pads are easily changed by remov-
ing the cover-retaining screws and the cover,
then lifting the pad out of the cooler.
Reverse the order to install the new pad
(Figure 7.25).
 ■CHAPTER 8■
REFRIGERATORS
R
efrigerators in RVs operate using an absorption
system which incorporates a completely differ-
ent set of principles than are employed in compres-
sor-driven household units. The RV is far more
demanding than the relatively static residential envi-
ronment. For example, RV refrigerators are required
to operate on a variety of energy sources and with-
stand all the jostling and vibration of highway travel.
In order for these appliances to endure well, they
must be given special care. However, even with the
best of care, it is possible to suffer a variety of mal-
functions.
The most common complaint from owners of RV
refrigerators is that the unit simply doesn't perform
very well, allowing the temperature inside the food
compartment during hot weather to approach or ex-
ceed 50 ° F. This is not sufficiently cool to protect the
contents from spoilage. Food must be kept at a max-
imum temperature of around 40 °F.
To understand all the potential problems associ-
ated with RV refrigerators, it is essential to be fa-
miliar with how absorption refrigeration works
(Figure 8.1). In absorption refrigeration, heat is ab-
sorbed from the interior of the refrigerator. The the-
ory is that where there is an absence of heat, there is
cold. This is distinctly different from the way a com-
pressor-driven household refrigerator operates; it ap-
plies cold directly to the refrigerator cavity.
There are no moving parts in an absorption re-
frigerator. The cooling process is based on laws of
chemistry and physics rather than mechanics. Here's
how it works. Water, ammonia, hydrogen gas, and
sodium chromate are combined under pressure in a
containment vessel, sometimes known as a generator
or boiler. Each of these elements plays an important
role in the process of cooling or in the preservation of
the equipment. The water, ammonia, and hydrogen
gas are directly involved in the cooling process, but
the function of the sodium chromate is to prevent the
heat from corroding the pipes.
As an electrical heating element or gas burner
brings the solution to a boil, the liquid percolates
up the pump tube. The ammonia is distilled out of
the solution and continues to rise up the tube as a
gas. A short way up the tube, the water and ammo-
nia gas part company, and the water returns to the
reservoir via a circuitous system of pipes. During the
water's return, it is recombined with the ammonia
at the far end of its voyage.
Meanwhile, the ammonia gas continues upward
until it reaches the condenser, where it dissipates
its heat and returns to a liquid form. As the drops of
pure liquid ammonia fall, they trickle into the evap-
orator (freezing unit) where they combine with hy-
drogen gas. This chemical marriage causes very
vigorous evaporation, which results in cooling. Be-
cause this rapid evaporation process takes place in
the freezer unit, that's where most of the cooling oc-
curs, as the heat is absorbed from the unit.
As a result of the evaporation process, the liquid
ammonia again becomes a gas and travels to a sec-
ondary evaporator in the refrigerator unit (the shiny
fins inside) where it absorbs more heat. Then the gas
enters a return pipe on its way back to rejoin the wa-
ter and start the process again.
■ THE ELECTRONIC REFRIGERATOR ■
The electronic refrigerator does not operate any more
effectively than a manual type; however, the elec-
tronic types do work more efficiently. All control
8.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Condenser
Figure 8.1 RV absorption refrigerators use ammonia, hydrogen, water, and sodium chromate under pressure
to produce a cold food compartment.
functions are passed from the human operator to the
control systems. The cost for this ease of operation
is the complexity of the system. The main difference
seen by the user is the display (eyebrow) panel, which
allows the user to select the basic parameters, such
as how cold and what mode of operation to use, and
lets the system do the rest of the work.
Basic Modes of Operation
Auto Mode
In automatic mode, the control system will select the
best method of operation and power selection. The
control system will automatically select between "AC,"
"Gas," and in three-way systems, "DC power." AC
power has priority over Gas. Gas has priority over
12-volt DC. If the control system does not detect AC
power, the system will automatically shift to the Gas
mode. If no AC or LP-gas is detected, the system will
turn off in the case of two-way systems or shift to the
DC mode in the case of three-way systems. In auto
mode, the Auto light will activate to show the oper-
ating mode.
Gas Mode
In the Gas mode, the system will activate the Gas in-
dicator lamp, the ignition system, and will attempt
to light the burner for a period of approximately
forty-five seconds. If unsuccessful, the Check indi-
cator lamp will illuminate and the Gas-mode indi-
cator will turn off. To restart Gas operation, you need
to press the main power on/off button to the off po-
sition and then back to the on position. The control
system will attempt a new forty-five-second ignition
sequence. If the refrigerator has not been in use for
an extended period of time, or if the LP-gas supply
has just been refilled, air may have been trapped in
the lines, requiring you to purge the air. This means
that you will have to perform the restart sequence
three to four times until the air is removed from

the lines. If this does not prove successful, first check
the propane supply and make sure all the manual
shut-off valves are open. If this does not work, then
start the troubleshooting process by following the
checklist on page 8.13.
DC Mode
Some systems can also be powered by DC current.
When this power source is selected, the DC-mode
light will be illuminated. All the other lights will be
off. The DC mode will override all other operating
modes until either AC or Gas is again provided to
the system.
CAUTION: Never operate the refrigerator in the DC mode for any
longer than absolutely needed—or without the engine running—as it
is a severe drain on the batteries.
Bypass Operation
Both Dometic and Norcold have a system feature
that allows the refrigerator to continue to operate in
the event of a major component failure. If the dis-
play module fails, the system will go to the fully
automatic mode of operation. The second bypass
will function in the event a temperature-sensing de-
vice or associated electronic-circuitry failure occurs.
If this happens, the cooling unit will run continu-
ously on the selected energy source.
Control Panels
Dometic
The Dometic control panel (Figure 8.2) provides in-
formation on the power mode and the level of cool-
ing and is fitted with an on/off switch and a check
light in case of an equipment fault.
Norcold
Norcold provides a diagnostic-code feature on its
control panels. Models 962, 963, 982, and 983 use
the front panel shown in Figure 8.3 and the diag-
nostic codes in Table 8.1. Models 9162, 9163, 9182,
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.3
and 9183 use the control panel shown in Figure 8.4
and the diagnostic codes in Table 8.2.
Dirty DC Power
A common problem with electronically controlled
refrigerators is dirty DC power. Refrigerators that rely
on a 12-volt DC source to operate must have clean
current. In many cases, the 12-volt DC power from
the converter will have an AC ripple, which can af-
fect refrigerator operation. Most of the time, the prob-
lem is associated with erratic operation of the eyebrow
panel. Dirty DC voltage can lead to relay chattering
and an erratic check light in the eyebrow panel. Us-
ing a digital multimeter set on AC volts, check the
voltage at the DC-terminal block. You should not
read more than 6 volts AC (see Figure 8.21, page
8.21). Also, make sure the connections are free of
corrosion and that the ground is secure.
If you find too much AC voltage at the DC-ter-
minal block, make sure the power lead is hooked up
to the clean side of the converter or is hooked up di-
rectly to the battery.
DC Voltage Requirements
For the refrigerator to operate on any mode, DC volt-
age must be supplied to the terminals at the rear of
the refrigerator and must be connected directly to
the RV (house) battery. The operational range is 10.5
to 15 volts DC.
Connecting the refrigerator to an unregulated con-
verter can result in improper operation of the re-
frigerator.
Do not use the body or chassis of the RV as a sub-
stitute for a ground.
Proper polarity is crucial for operation of the re-
frigerator.
Check for proper voltage at the positive and neg-
ative terminals at the back of the refrigerator.
If power is outside the operational range, correct
the power supply problem. The power supply to the
refrigerator must be fused.
With the refrigerator operating on AC or GAS mode,
if voltage to the refrigerator slowly drops to or less
than 9.5 volts DC, the gas flame will not be thermo-
stat controlled, and could cause over-cooling.
8.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Models include: S1521, S1531, S1621, S1631, S1821, S1831, RM2607, RM2611, RM2807, RM2811
Auto Mode When operating in the Auto mode, the Auto
mode indicator lamp (D) will illuminate. The control system will
automatically select between AC and Gas operation with AC
having priority over Gas. Either the AC indicator lamp (B) or
the Gas indicator lamp (C) will illuminate depending on the
energy source selected by the control system. If the control
system is operating with AC energy and it then becomes
unavailable, the system will automatically switch to Gas. As
soon as AC becomes available again, the control will switch
back to AC regardless of the status of Gas operation.
Gas Mode When operating in the Gas mode, the Auto mode
indicator lamp (D) will not be illuminated. This mode provides
LP gas operation only. The control system will activate the
ignition system and will attempt to light the burner for a period
of approximately 45 seconds. If unsuccessful, the Check
indicator lamp (E) will illuminate and the Gas mode indicator
lamp (C) will turn off.
To restart Gas operation, press the main power On/Off button
(1) to the Off and then On position. The control system will
attempt a new 45-second ignition sequence.
If the refrigerator has not been used for a long time or the LP
tanks have just been refilled, air may be trapped in the supply
Figure 8.2 Typical Dometic two- and three-way eyebrow panels.
Low or High DC Voltage
Most refrigerators will experience operational prob-
lems when the power falls below 10.5 volts or when
it goes above 15.5 volts. A faulty power converter,
where the 12-volt DC power becomes unregulated, is
the culprit most of the time. Dirty connections or faulty
connectors can also be at fault. The 12-volt DC power
should be checked at the refrigerator-terminal block
and at the batteries and power converter; if there is a
voltage loss, suspect the wiring and connections.
lines. To purge the air from the lines may require resetting the
main power On/Off button (1) three or four times. If repeated
attempts fail to start the LP gas operation, check to make sure
that the LP gas supply tanks are not empty and all manual
shutoff valves in the lines are open.
If the control is switched to AC or DC operation while the
Check indicator lamp is on, it will function properly, but the
Check indicator lamp will not go off until the main power
On/Off button is pressed to the Off then On position.
DC Mode (3-Way Models Only) When operating in the DC
mode, the DC mode indicator lamp (A) will be illuminated. All
other mode lamps will be off. The DC mode overrides all other
operating modes. If one of the other operating modes is
desired, the DC selector button (2) must be in the Up (Off)
position.
Special Features of Operation This control system
contains a feature where it will continue to operate the cooling
system in the event of a failure of a major operating
component. Two different modes of operation can occur in this
category.
AC Voltage Requirements
The refrigerator is a 120-volt AC, 60 Hz appliance.
The proper operating range is 100 to 132 volts. Check
the AC voltage at the receptacle where the refrigera-
tor is attached. If voltage is outside of the proper op-
erating range, correct the power source problem. If
voltage drops to less than 100 volts, cooling efficiency
will decrease in relation to voltage decrease. The re-
frigerator will not switch to another mode of oper-
ation until all AC power is lost.
 CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.5

Table 8.1 Norcold 900 and 9100 Series Diagnostic Fault Indicators, Meanings, and Corrective Actions
9100 Series LED Meanings Corrective actions

No LEDs Control voltage unavailable Check: 10.5 to 15.4 volts DC being supplied to refrigerator?
to display panel Battery charging equipment
Converter
DC connection to the refrigerator
Refrigerator's DC fuse (3-amp control fuse)
Refer to Norcold's service manual.

Flashing LP-gas
LED (flash, pause,
flash, pause, etc.)
LP-gas-ignition fault (initial startup)
Check: 10.5 to 15.4 volts DC being supplied to refrigerator?
Have gas lines been purged?
LP supply valve on?
LP supply empty?
LP supply pressure 11" water column?
Refrigerator's manual shut-off valve open?
Refer to Norcold's service manual.

Flashing Fault external to refrigerator controls; Check: Battery(ies) supplying DC to refrigerator

Battery LED DC-input voltage too low Battery-charging equipment
(flash, flash, pause, Converter
flash, flash, pause, etc.) DC connection to the refrigerator
Refer to Norcold's service manual.

Flashing Fault external to refrigerator controls; Check: Battery(ies) supplying DC to refrigerator

Battery LED DC-input voltage too high Battery-charging equipment
(flash, flash, pause, Converter
flash, flash, pause, etc.) DC connection to the refrigerator
Refer to Norcold's service manual.

MOTE: For more information refer to the operator's guide or contact an authorized Norcold service center.

Fuses turned off, the pressure to the refrigerator should not

The fuses are to protect the circuit board and the
integrity of the heater circuit(s) against shorts.
The 3-amp DC fuse is designed to protect the cir-
cuit board from internal shorts. The 5-amp AC fuse
is designed to protect the integrity of the AC heater
circuit from shorts. On three-way models only, the
35-amp DC fuse is designed to protect the DC heater
circuit integrity.
To check the fuses, remove from the holder and
do a continuity check. If no continuity is found, re-
place with a proper amperage fuse.
NOTE: Determine the cause of the fuse failure and correct before
replacing fuse.
LP Gas Requirements
The LP gas pressure to the refrigerator should be 11
inches water column with half of all the gas appli-
ances in the RV turned on. With all other appliances
exceed 12 inches water column. To check the gas pres-
sure when the refrigerator is operating, there is a pres-
sure test housing located just prior to the orifice.
■ LEVELING EARLY-MODEL ■
REFRIGERATORS
Overall, refrigerators are simple and relatively trou-
ble free. There are no pumps or motors to move the
ammonia around inside the unit; simple gravity
does the job. One serious problem is related to
operating the refrigerator off-level, causing the fluid
in the generator to pool on one side and leave part
of the chamber dry. If the heating element or flame
heats the vessel while there is not enough liquid in
the right place, the heat may "cook" the sodium
chromate. When that happens, the sodium chro-
mate gets hard and brittle and can flake and float
8 • 6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Table 8.2 Diagnostic Codes, Meanings,
Code Meaning
No display on control panel
At LP-gas-ignition fault
(initial startup)
A2 LP-gas-reignition fault
(during normal operation)
A3 Door ajar and interior light on for
more than two minutes
A4 Fault external to refrigerator controls
AC mode selected but AC power
not available
A5 Fault external to refrigerator controls
AC input voltage too low
A6 Fault external to refrigerator controls.
AC input voltage too high.
A7 Fault external to refrigerator controls
DC input voltage too low
A8 Fault external to refrigerator controls
DC input voltage too high
Cl Fault within refrigerator controls
C2 Fault within refrigerator controls
C3 Fault within refrigerator controls
C4 Fault within refrigerator controls
C5 Fault within refrigerator controls
"Back-up Operating System Mode"
C6 Fault within refrigerator controls
C7 Fault within refrigerator controls
C8 Fault within refrigerator controls
C9 Fault within refrigerator controls
D1 Fault within refrigerator controls
and Actions
Action
Check: 10.5 to 15.4 volts DC being supplied to refrigerator?
Battery-charging equipment or converter
DC connection to the refrigerator
Refrigerator's DC fuse (3-amp control fuse)
Consult your dealer or a Norcold service center.
Check: 10.5 to 15.4 volts DC being supplied to refrigerator?
Have gas lines been purged?
LP supply on?
LP supply empty?
LP supply pressure 11" water column?
Consult your dealer or a Norcold service center.
Check: 10.5 to 15.4 volts DC being supplied to refrigerator?
LP supply valve on?
LP supply empty?
LP supply pressure 11" water column?
Consult your dealer or a Norcold service center.
Closing door will deactivate alarm and remove the code
Check: Is refrigerator plugged into a functional AC outlet?
Has the vehicle fuse or circuit breaker blown?
Vehicle generator functioning (if applicable)?
Refrigerator's AC fuse (5 amp) blown?
Consult your dealer or a Norcold service center.
Check: AC input to refrigerator (108 volts AC minimum)?
Generator (if applicable)
If AC problem cannot be located, consult your dealer,
campground administrator, or a Norcold service center.
Check: AC input to refrigerator (132 volts AC minimum)?
Generator (if applicable)
If AC problem cannot be located, consult your dealer,
campground administrator, or a Norcold service center.
Check: DC supply to refrigerator (10.5 volts DC mininum)?
Battery-charging equipment or converter
DC connection to the refrigerator
Consult your dealer or a Norcold service center.
Check: Battery(ies) supplying DC to refrigerator (15.4 volts DC maximum)
Battery-charging equipment or converter
DC connection to the refrigerator.
Consult your dealer or a Norcold service center.
Not owner serviceable; consult your dealer or a Norcold service center
Not owner serviceable; consult your dealer or a Norcold service center
Not owner serviceable; consult your dealer or a Norcold service center
Not owner serviceable; consult your dealer or a Norcold service center
Not owner serviceable
Temporary operating mode; read "Back-up Operating System"
Seek service as soon as possible
Consult your dealer or a Norcold service center.
Not owner serviceable; consult your dealer or a Norcold service center
Not owner serviceable; consult your dealer or a Norcold service center
Not owner serviceable; consult your dealer or a Norcold service center
Not owner serviceable; consult your dealer or a Norcold service center
Not owner serviceable; consult your dealer or a Norcold service center

1. Auto Mode Push the On/Off button (E) to start the
refrigerator in the fully automatic mode. Push the Set Point
(thermostat) button (D) to a mid-range setting. If 120-volt
AC is available, Auto LED and AC LED will illuminate,
indicating AC operation. After ten seconds, the AC LED will
turn off and only the Auto LED will remain illuminated. If
120-volt AC is not available, Auto LED and LP-Gas LED will
illuminate. After ten seconds, LP-Gas LED will turn off and
only the Auto LED will remain illuminated. Press and
release any button to display operating mode. Push the Set
Point (thermostat) button (D) to a mid-range setting.
2. Manual Mode Press and hold Mode selection button until
Auto LED disappears and LP-Gas LED is the only LED
illuminated. LP-Gas LED will remain illuminated until an
Figure 8.3 The Norcold control panel
around until it finds a place to lodge in tiny pas-
sages of the pump tube. Eventually, this can result in
refrigerator failure.
Another problem caused by operating the refrig-
erator off-level is that the liquid in the system can
accumulate into pockets that can impair or com-
pletely block gas circulation. When this happens,
cooling will stop permanently, in most cases.
Normally, when an RV is stationary, it is parked
and leveled as much as possible to provide com-
fortable living conditions. If the refrigerator is prop-
erly installed (the freezer compartment parallel with
the RV floor), the refrigerator will then operate prop-
erly. To check this, use a bubble level and adjust the
level of the RV front to rear and side to side until at
least one-half of the bubble is within the center por-
tion of the level.
When the RV is in motion, the continuous rolling
and pitching movement will not affect the refriger-
ator as long as the movement breaks the plane of
level. But whenever the RV is parked, even tem-
porarily, the vehicle should be leveled to protect the
refrigerator from damage during operation.
In those situations where the refrigerator cannot
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.7
alternate mode is selected or the refrigerator is turned off.
Note: If the gas does not ignite within thirty seconds, the
refrigerator's gas valve will automatically close and the
operating controls will select an alternate energy source
(Auto Mode) or revert to a stand-by-mode in which the LP-
Gas LED flashes, indicating flame ignition fault. If burner
flame does not ignite after several attempts, refer to
"Diagnostics" for corrective actions.
3. To turn the refrigerator "Off", push and hold the "On/Off"
button (E) for two seconds.
Note: 12-volt DC must be available for both the Auto and
Manual modes.
be leveled, such as in an inclined parking lot, re-
gardless of how short the time, turn off the refriger-
ator until it can be leveled or until you are traveling
again. The damage that occurs is cumulative, and
each time the refrigerator is operated off-level, the
blockage becomes more serious, until finally the ob-
struction is complete and the cooling unit is no longer
functional.
In the mid 1980s, the refrigerator manufacturers
incorporated a safety shut-off feature designed to
prevent serious damage or operational failures when
Figure 8.4 Norcold control panel diagnostic read-
out alerts user to operational problems
8.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 8.5 Dometic refrigerator (exploded view)


the refrigerators are used in a severe off-level posi-
tion. This feature allows the refrigerators to operate
properly as long as the RV is comfortably level. The
rule of thumb: If you are comfortable inside your RV,
the refrigerator is happy. You can also use the re-
frigerator door as a barometer: if it stays in place
when opened, the rig is probably level enough. Keep
in mind that when the refrigerator shuts down to
protect the system, your food will become spoiled if
the off-level condition is not corrected in a reason-
able amount of time.
Testing for Safety Shut-off
To determine if the refrigerator has a self-protecting
design, use the following information:
Dometic
A quick way to tell if your refrigerator has this safety
feature is to simply look at the boiler-tube cover in
the rear, on the right side. (Figure 8.5). Square cov-
ers indicate the old model; round covers are used on
the new type.
Norcold
Norcold specifies that refrigerators built since 1977
can be operated as long as they are not more than
3 degrees off-level in a side-to-side axis, and/or 6 de-
grees off-level in a front-to-back axis (Figure 8.6).
NOTE: The vehicle may be perfectly level, but the refrigerator may
be off-level due to improper installation. Make sure the refrigerator is
level with the RV. Normally, if the RV is leveled so that the occupants are
comfortable, the newer-model refrigerators will work properly.
■ REFRIGERATOR PROBLEMS ■
Correcting Blockage in a Dometic Unit
Blockage of the unit in the liquid circuit is most of-
ten made evident by signs of overheating on the va-
por pipe leading from the boiler to the condenser
(refer to Figure 8.1, page 8.2). The paint on this pipe
may be blistered and the metal discolored. To test a
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.9
Dometic refrigerator for blockage, bypass the control
system and apply 120-volt AC power directly to the
heater and let it run for twenty-four hours. After the
twenty-four-hour period, the inside temperature
should be approximately 300 F. If this is not the case,
the refrigeration unit must be replaced.
CAUTION: This should only be done by a qualified technician.
This problem could be remedied in some older
units by turning the unit upside down several times
so that the liquid in the absorber vessel can be mixed
with the liquid in the boiler. Make sure the refriger-
ator has ample time to cool down first. This proce-
dure will restore the liquid balance to the unit.
Sometimes a vigorous drive around the block will
restore minor blockages.
Correcting Blockage in a Norcold Unit
If a Norcold refrigerator suffers loss of cooling abil-
ity due to operation for extended periods of time
in an off-level condition, there is a special procedure
that may or may not restore function. There are no
guarantees. The refrigerator must be removed from
its compartment and placed on its left side for a min-
imum of one hour. This will allow the ammonia and
water to mix with one another. After an attempt has
been made to relieve the system of its blockage, the
unit should be allowed to stand upright for one hour
to allow the remainder of the refrigerant to return to
the boiler. Operation on AC should once again be
initiated for a maximum of one hour to determine
if the refrigerator's cooling capability has been re-
stored. After a one-hour period of operation the
left rear of the freezer compartment should be cold;
if it is not, the blockage has not been remedied, and
the cooling unit must be removed and replaced.
Dometic Refrigerator Circuit Board Diagnosis
Three-way Models
The PAL tester will allow for proper testing of the in-
tegrity of the upper and lower circuit boards. PAL is
available from Dometic parts distributors. This con-
trol system has an integral Diagnostic/Test sequence.
Access to the diagnostic sequence unit is by means
8.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 8.6 Norcold refrigerator (exploded view)


of the ON/OFF Power Switch and the Temperature
Selector Switch. With the Power Switch in the OFF
position, hold the Temperature Selector Switch in
the DOWN position. While keeping the Tempera-
ture Selector Switch in the DOWN position, move
the main power ON/OFF Switch to the ON (DOWN)
position. Hold the Temperature Selector Switch
DOWN for three seconds. The control will indicate
that the diagnostics have been entered by illumi-
nating each of the Mode Indicator Lamps and the
Temperature Indicator Lamps one at a time in se-
quence. Each lamp is illuminated twice. The Check
Lamp will then flash ON and OFF and the NO. 1 po-
sition Temperature Indicator will remain illuminated.
The test sequence can be operated automatically or
manually.
For AUTO step sequence, press the AUTO/GAS
Mode Selector Switch to the DOWN position. The
AUTO Mode Indicator will illuminate. If each lamp
illuminates during the check, the display circuit board
is good. In automatic test mode, each load is acti-
vated for approximately four seconds then released.
The control system will automatically exit the diag-
nostic sequence in approximately four minutes or
when power is turned OFF. The Temperature Indi-
cator Lamps are used to indicate which part of the
control system is being tested.
When position No. 1 is illuminated, the control
is in an idle position with all output loads off. To ac-
tivate the first load simply push the Temperature Se-
lector Switch.
All of the checks listed below are done on the
lower circuit board.
The manual test sequence is as follows:
• Position No. 1: Idle Position, all loads off.
• Position No. 2: Activate AC Heater. Check for
AC volts at terminals J7 and J8.
• Position No. 3: Activate Gas Solenoid. Check for
DC volts at Gas Solenoid white wire (-) and yellow
wire (+).
• Position No. 4: Activate DC heater. Check for
DC volts between J1 (+) and J10 (—).
• Position No. 5: Activate spark ignition system.
Check for DC volts to (+) terminal of igniter and
ground.
If you experience a problem on any of the above
checks, verify the fuses on the lower circuit board are
good.
If all checks prove to be good, and the refrigera-
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.11
tor does not operate on electric mode, replace the
lower circuit board. It has been damaged by AC volts
in excess of 180 volts.
AC Mode
(NOTE: All tests are to be done with the refrigerator in the cooling mode.)
For AC heating element operation, check that in-
coming AC voltage is present at terminals J5 and J6
on the circuit board.
If voltage is less than 100 volts, check for volt-
age at the heating element connection terminals J7
and J8 on the circuit board. If no voltage is present,
check the 5 amp AC and 3 amp DC fuses. If fuse is
defective, replace the fuse. If fuses are good, replace
the circuit board.
(NOTE: Before installing a new circuit board, determine and correct
the cause of the failure. If voltage is present, do not change the circuit
board. Check the AC heating element.)
DC Mode
(NOTE: All tests are to be done with the refrigerator in the cooling mode.)
Before any checks are made, make sure the board
is receiving proper DC volts. Measure volts between
terminal J4 and the ground strip. Voltage should be
the same as at the positive (+) and negative (-) on
the terminal block. If not, check for loose connec-
tions.
For DC heating element operation (on three-way
models only), check for voltage between terminal J4
on the circuit board and the ground strip. If voltage
is 12.8 volts DC or higher, check for DC volts be-
tween the heating element (Jl) connection and the
ground strip. If there is no voltage present, check the
fuses and the DC heating element. If these check out
okay, change the circuit board.
GAS Mode
(NOTE: All tests are to be done with the refrigerator in the cooling mode.)
Before checking the circuit board for gas opera-
tion, verify that the following components are good:
Upper Circuit Board, Thermistor, and three-amp Fuse.
(NOTE: Each of the following tests should be done according to pin
locations. The wire colors may vary.)
8.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
First, check for voltage during trial-for-ignition
(approximately 45 seconds) at Plug 3, Terminals 1
(white wire) and 2 (yellow wire) to the solenoid. If
no voltage is present, change the circuit board. If volt-
age is present, check for voltage at the solenoid. If
voltage is not present, check the wires and connec-
tions.
Next, check for voltage to the igniter. If no volt-
age is present, check the wires. If good, then change
the circuit board. If voltage is present, this portion
of the board is good.
NOTE: When millivolts to the lower circuit board are 10 ± 3, the
power to Plug 3, Terminal 4 (blue wire) will be shut off. If flame extin-
guishes during the cooling mode, the circuit board will not supply volt-
age to Plug 3, Terminal 4 (blue wire) again until the millivolts have
decreased to 10±3. This process could take up to 15 seconds or longer.
Figure 8.7 Baffle position for Dometic refrigerators
Figure 8.8 Baffle position for Norcold refrigerators
To check the flame sense circuit of the lower cir-
cuit board, operate the refrigerator on GAS mode,
then measure the millivolts between J3 terminal and
the other wire connection from the thermocouple.
The millivolt meter should read between 25 to 35
millivolts with the gas flame burning. Next, turn the
manual shutoff valve to OFF and watch the millivolt
reading as it drops. Note the millivolt reading when
Plug 3, Terminal 4 (blue wire) receives power. It
should be 10± 3 millivolts or 7 to 13.
Repeat this test several times. If the igniter fails to
spark on any test sequence, it should be replaced.
If the millivolt readings vary more than 1 to 2 MV
from one test to the other when power is supplied
to Plug 3, Terminal 4 (blue wire), replace the lower
circuit board.
NOTE: Verify all connections are clean and tight before replacing ei-
ther component.
■ HELPFUL HINTS ■
FOR REFRIGERATOR OPERATION
Leaving aside the technical details of absorption re-
frigerator operation, there are many simple tricks
that help an RV refrigerator deliver better service.
Some of the procedures described here require a pe-
riodic visit to a service center, where technicians can
test components with instrumentation if erratic re-
frigerator performance is noticed. But most of these
tips are just common-sense techniques.
■ Precool the refrigerator by starting it the night
before the camping trip. This should be done
with no food in the refrigerator.
■ Wait until the refrigerator is thoroughly cold
before placing food inside.
■ Precool food in your home refrigerator.
Prefreeze foods to be kept in the freezer. This
gives the unit a break by adding cold to it
rather than adding heat and demanding
more work to cool it down.
■ Proper refrigeration requires free air circulation
within the food storage compartment. Re-
stricted air circulation within this compart-
ment will cause higher cabinet temperatures.
To remedy this situation, simply rearrange the
foodstuffs. It is essential that the shelves not be
covered with paper or large storage containers,
 CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.13

because this inhibits free air circulation.
■ To reduce frost buildup, cover stored liquids
and moist foods, and do not leave the door
open longer than necessary.
■ When buying food on the road that is in­
tended for storage in the refrigerator, buy the
coldest packages available, and get them into
the refrigerator as quickly as possible. This
prevents the refrigerator from having to work
extra hard to chill warm packages.
■ Always wipe moisture off the outside of con­
tainers before putting them in the refrigera­
tor. If cold items are taken from the unit, they
will have a tendency to sweat as they warm.
Dry them off before putting them back into
the refrigerator. This will help prevent frost
buildup, which consumes cooling power and
insulates against efficient heat transfer.
■ Periodically clean out the burner unit. LP-gas
has a garlic or rotten-egg odor that becomes
especially strong as the cylinders/tank run
low. This scent attracts spiders, which will
build nests in the burner.
■ Special care must be taken when cleaning
burner orifices; these parts are delicate. They
must not be cleaned by simply inserting a pin
or thin wire. They must be removed, cleaned in
alcohol, and then blown dry with compressed
air. When reinstalling, make sure the burner
flame is centered directly below the flue.
■ Clean out the refrigerator's roof-exhaust vent.
Bird nests, leaves, twigs, or other debris can
lodge there, choking the refrigerator's efficiency.
In extreme cases, they can even cause a fire.
A "spider-web" brush works very well for this.
■ Do not overfill the LP-gas cylinder(s) or tank.
This can damage the regular diaphragm, caus­
ing irregular delivery of the propane and re­
sulting in erratic operation of the refrigerator.
■ In the Gas mode, the burners are designed for

■ T R■ O
TROUBLESHOOTING
U B L E S H O O■T I N G ■
THE A B S O R P T I O N R E F R I G E R A T O R

THE ABSORPTION REFRIGERATOR

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Insufficient cooling Wrong thermostat setting Adjust thermostat to higher setting

Restricted air circulation over cooling unit Remove any restrictions
Refrigerator not level Adjust RV to level refrigerator
Air leakage into cabinet Check door gasket; adjust or replace
if necessary
Heavy coating of frost on evaporator Defrost unit frequently
Faulty heater, wrong voltage or type Install new heater of appropriate voltage
Intermittent power Check for loose connections; repair as
necessary
Voltage drop Maintain voltage at full rate
Break in electric circuit Check fuses, switch wiring; repair
as necessary
Faulty thermostat Replace thermostat
Failed cooling unit Replace cooling unit
Excessive cooling Wrong thermostat setting Adjust thermostat to lower setting
Incorrectly located end of thermostat Reinsert capillary end of thermostat fully
capillary tube into the sleeve under the ice-tray
compartment
Faulty thermostat Replace thermostat
Improperly wired heater Rewire heater according to unit wiring
diagram
8.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
REFRIGERATOR OPERATING ON LP-GAS

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Insufficient cooling Restricted air circulation over cooling unit Remove any restrictions

Refrigerator not level Adjust RV to level refrigerator

• Baffle too low in flue
Refrigerator too cold
Insufficient LP-gas Refill LP-gas tanks
Feeler point of thermocouple flame-failure Adjust position of feeler point in flame
device not heated enough by flame
Clogged bypass screw, clogged burner head, Clean bypass screw with alcohol and by
clogged burner-jet orifice blowing through with air; if necessary,
replace burner jet; clean the head with
a brush or toothpick
Flue baffle not inserted into central tube of Position baffle correctly; consult
cooling unit manufacturer’s specs.
Position baffle correctly. Consult
manufacturer's specs (Figures 8.7 and 8.8).
Improper LP-gas pressure Have pressure checked; pressure must not
fall below 11 inches water-column pressure
when thermostat is set on "max"
Loose burner assembly Refit burner assembly
Improper thermostat setting Increase thermostat setting
Failed cooling unit Replace unit
Improper thermostat setting Lower thermostat setting
Incorrectly located end of thermostat Reinsert end of capillary tube in clamp on
capillary tube fresh-food compartment
Incorrect size of bypass screw Replace bypass screw
Dirt in thermostat valve Clean valve and valve seat in thermostat

a specific Btu rating. The LP-gas pressure must
remain constant or the refrigerator will operate
erratically (see Troubleshooting, above).
■ If you have noticed erratic cooling when op-
erating on gas, check for kinks or clogs in the
gas line.
■ Check LP-gas pressure at the refrigerator
when other appliances are operating. Using
a test manometer, pressure should read
11 inches of water-column pressure. This
should be done by a qualified technician.
■ Periodically have the LP-gas regulator re-
placed, to insure maximum efficiency. The di-
aphragm can load up with a waxy substance
after a great deal of use, which changes the
way the pressure is controlled. If the pressure
vacillates, the refrigerator will suffer irregular
operation.
■ Don't put filters, covers, or plastic bags over
the vents to the refrigerator unit. They are de-
signed to be operated as they come from the
factory, with nothing covering the vents. If
the ventilation is restricted, a buildup of ex-
cess heat results, and the refrigerator cannot
function properly.
■ Don't open the refrigerator or freezer doors
more often than necessary. Cold air in the re-
frigerator is like a pile of sand. It falls to the
bottom, and when the door is opened, the
cold air runs out onto the floor. Every time
the door is opened, the refrigerator gains a
few degrees of heat. If it is opened six or eight
times on an extremely hot day, it may lose
much of its cold.
■ In extremely hot weather, a small battery-
powered fan (Fridgemate) in the refrigerator

will help circulate the air faster than occurs
by natural convection.
■ Make sure an adequate electric cord is used
when operating in the 120-volt AC mode.
An extension cord of inadequate gauge, used
with the RV power cord, will cause ineffi-
ciency of the refrigerator heating element and
result in a reduction of cooling capacity.
■ Install a surge suppressor where the electric
cord from the refrigerator plugs in, to prevent
a power spike from destroying the equipment.
■ The flue, which is located directly above the
burner flame, should be cleaned periodically
to remove rust, scale, and soot. How often
this is done is determined by frequency of
use, LP-gas quality, and region of the country.
If the refrigerator is operated in areas with
high humidity or salt air, it will require more
frequent cleaning.
■ After removal of the flue tube, the spiral baf-
fle inside the tube must be carefully removed.
Then a shotgun-bore brush or a special brush
available from the refrigerator manufacturer
is used to clean the tube. When everything is
clean, the baffle must be replaced exactly as it
was originally (Figures 8.7 and 8.8). In order
to perform this operation, it may be neces-
sary to remove the refrigerator from its recess.
To get total efficiency, this cleaning is critical.
Generally, however, its benefits will only be
noticed in extremely hot weather when maxi-
mum refrigerator cooling is needed.
■ If possible, park so the refrigerator side of the
coach is shaded.
■ Clean the absorber coils and condenser fins
to remove any buildup that can act as a heat-
transfer insulator.
■ The electric heating element should be checked
periodically for proper resistance. It will deteri-
orate with age, leaving the refrigerator with a
slowly diminishing capacity for cooling when
used in the electric mode. Generally, owners
have this test performed at a repair facility be-
cause of the instruments required.
■ Defrost the unit regularly. A frost buildup in-
sulates against thermal exchange, preventing
the refrigerator from absorbing heat from its
interior and contents. Do not use a hairdryer
or high-heat source to speed defrosting be-
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.15
cause this can warp the cooling fins. Instead,
use a pan of warm water and wait patiently
for the defrosting to take place.
■ Because the interior refrigerator light (if so
equipped) produces some heat, check to see
that it goes out when the door is closed. To
do this, use a thin butter-knife blade to
spread the door gasket back a bit when the
door is closed. This will allow you to look in-
side at night when the door is closed to see if
the light is on.
■ High humidity can cause condensation to
freeze on the interior fins. There is usually a
catch tray and/or a drain hose inside the re-
frigerator that removes ice melt from the unit.
This water is ducted to a hose that exits the
refrigerator or is designed to use a drain hole
behind the unit. You must insure that the wa-
ter drain hole is kept clear of debris.
■ Inspect the door gasket for proper sealing
ability. Use the dollar-bill trick. Shut the re-
frigerator door with a dollar bill halfway in-
side, then tug on the other half to see how
difficult it is to remove. It should offer some
resistance. Or you can place a lighted flash-
light inside the refrigerator at night and shut
the door to see if light escapes.
■ Install a fan in the compartment behind the
refrigerator to speed the removal of hot air.
This will significantly enhance the perform-
ance of your refrigerator. These fans can be
powered by 12-volt DC or a small solar panel.
■ If your refrigerator can be operated in the
12-volt DC mode, make sure the connection
uses an adequate gauge of wire and that there
is no corrosion or damage to the wire.
CAUTION: Do not operate the refrigerator on 12-volf DC
unless the vehicle's engine is running. The 12-volt DC mode
only acts as a temperature-holding system; always cool the
refrigerator on 120-volt AC power or LP-gas first.
Checking for Overfreezing
If your manual-control refrigerator freezes food in
the lower compartment, follow these steps:
1. Make sure the gas thermostat knob is not
stripped. If it is, replace it.
8.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 8.9 To test the thermistor, remove the cover
from the lower circuit board, disconnect the thermis-
tor harness from the P2, 2-pin terminal and check
with a multimeter.
2. Turn the knob up and down, and watch for
the flame to change. If it does not change, the
thermostat is defective and must be replaced.
3. Make certain the end of the thermistor (sens-
ing tube) is seated properly inside the refrig-
erator against the cooling fins.
4. If it changes from "high" to "low" (or vice
versa) and still freezes in the lower section,
change the bypass screw (shut off the gas). Re-
move the existing screw in the thermostat and
replace it with a new one that has a lower num-
ber stamped on top. Finish by checking for gas
leaks using soapy water or perform a manome-
ter test (see LP-Gas, Chapter 2).
If your automatic-control refrigerator freezes food
in the lower compartment, follow these steps:
1. The most common cause of lower-compart-
ment freezing in refrigerators with improved
control systems is a faulty thermistor. To test
this temperature sensor, remove the cover
from the lower circuit board (Figure 8.9) and
disconnect the thermistor harness from the
P2, 2-pin terminal.
2. Place the thermistor in a glass of ice water
Figure 8.10 Thermistor adjuster for Dometic
refrigerator
and wait two to three minutes.
3. Use a multimeter to obtain a reading of
approximately 7,000 to 10,000 ohms. Nor-
mally, a thermistor that has failed will have a
very high resistance. If the resistance is more
than 11,000 ohms, replace the thermistor; if
not, the control system may be at fault and
should be checked by an RV technician.
Dometic refrigerators operating in warm weather
may need to use a thermistor adjuster (Figure 8.10)
to bring the interior temperatures below the normal
35 °F to 46 °F readings. A thermistor adjuster (not
supplied with the refrigerator) is a resistor-type part
that attaches between the thermistor and the lower
board. The thermistor adjuster is operating properly
when the resistance across the terminals reads 23,200
ohms (±10 percent).
Checking a Cooling Unit
Failure of refrigeration doesn't necessarily indicate
that the cooling unit is defective. Other factors gov-
erning its operation must be checked.
If the refrigerator has been operating on LP-gas
and a loss of cooling is noted, switch over to electric
operation. If the unit has been operating on AC
power, switch over to LP-gas. This will determine if
component failure in the electric or LP-gas system is
causing the cooling fault. After the refrigerator has
been switched over from one power source to an-

other, allow sufficient time to assure that the unit is
cycling properly. The freezer plate should start to
cool. Check the following items before suspecting
that the refrigeration cooling unit is faulty.
■ Evaporator plate is level in each direction
■ Controls have been properly set for the power
source being utilized
■ Power source is at the correct rating
(11 inches water-column pressure for LP-gas,
120 volts for AC)
■ 12-volt DC supply is present for the mode-
selector control
■ Upper and lower vents are clear and
unobstructed
■ Refrigerator is properly leveled
■ Good ventilation is available
■ Clean proper-size burner orifice
■ Clean proper-size bypass screw
■ Clean thermostat valve
■ Correct flame
■ Correct position of baffle in boiler tube
■ No burned-out element
■ Heating element in correct position
■ Correct size and wattage of heating element
■ Supply voltage corresponds to voltage stamped
on the heating element
■ No fluctuation in voltage supply
■ No loose electrical connections
■ Thermostat intact
Figure 8.11 Burner assembly and flue system
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.17
■ No unit leaks
■ Safety valve intact
CAUTION: If you have a 3-way power refrigerator, do not attempt
to operate the system on 12-volt DC power when analyzing the system
performance because this power source is designed for short-period op-
eration only and does not power the system at its full cooling capability.
■ GENERAL MAINTENANCE ■
Once or twice a year, depending upon frequency of
use, it is recommended to clean and adjust the burner
assembly. This includes the burner jet, the burner
barrel, and the flue system (Figure 8.11). On all LP-
gas appliances, the cleaning solution used on the jets
and associated parts should be one that dries with-
out any residue. Rubbing alcohol and wood alcohol
are appropriate cleaning agents.
CAUTION: Do not use a cleaner with a petrochemical base, because
it will leave a film on the inside of these parts and reduce burner effi-
ciency. Never use a wire or pin when cleaning the jet. This will enlarge
the orifice opening, damage the refrigerator, and cause a fire hazard.
LP-gas pressure being delivered to the appliances
should be checked annually by a qualified dealer or
propane agency. Correa LP-gas pressure is 11 inches
of water-column pressure. This should be checked at
the test point in the refrigerator compartment.
When replacing a jet with a new one, make sure
the replacement is correct for your refrigerator model.
8.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 8.12 Routine cleaning or replacement of the burner is necessary for effcient refrigerator operation.
A jet that is too large or too small can ruin the cool-
ing unit. A jet that is too small will also result in fail-
ure to maintain desired temperatures.
It is important to always check for LP-gas leaks af-
ter repair work has been performed. Do this with
soapy water (see LP-Gas, Chapter 2).
Replacing or Cleaning the Burner
The efficiency of the refrigerator is highly dependent
on the correct burner flame, which provides energy
for the refrigerator's cooling. The efficiency of the
burner flame is dependent on the gas-supply pres-
sure, air input, and burner-orifice cleanliness. For
routine cleaning or replacement of the burner (Fig-
ure 8.12), follow this procedure as it applies to your
particular unit:
1. Turn off the LP-gas supply at the cylinder(s)/
Figure 8.13 Proper burner flame in a Norcold
refrigerator
tank and/or electric power.
2. Disconnect the gas pipe from burner assem-
bly. To prevent damage, use two wrenches.
3. Disconnect the thermocouple from the
safety valve.
4. Disconnect the ignitor lead (if applicable)
and loosen the screw.
5. Remove the burner housing.
6. Remove the orifice from the burner tube.
7. Clean both with alcohol and compressed
air only.
8. Clean the burner tube and especially the
gauze or slots with a brush. Blow out with
compressed air (80 psi maximum).
9. Check the flue baffle to see that it is clean
and free of soot. Heavy soot formation indi-
cates improper functioning of the burner.
10. Clean the baffle and the flue.
11. Clean the cooling unit and the floor under
the refrigerator.
12. Reassemble in reverse order. Be very careful
to avoid crossthreading when connecting
the gas-supply line. To prevent damage, use
two wrenches when loosening or tightening
the gas-line connection.
13. Turn on the LP-gas supply.
14. The entire gas installation should be
checked for leaks. Test all pipes and fittings
with soapy water.
NOTE: Do not use a solution that contains ammonia,
because ammonia will attack brass fittings of the burner and
gas valve assemblies.
15. Check the burner with full flame (Max) and
with bypass flame (0). The thermostat will
not close to bypass on setting 0 unless the re-

frigerator has been working a few hours and
the thermostat bulb is cooled to at least 40 °F.
Setting the Norcold Burner Flame
Norcold refrigerators employ burners with nonad-
justable, fixed orifices using primary air holes that
control the flame (Figure 8.13). A properly set flame
in the burner of a Norcold refrigerator should be
sharp blue with no yellow color. If there is a constant
yellow flame or if the flame appears erratic, the burner
and burner orifice must be cleaned.
The ignition/sense electrode for the Norcold re-
frigerator must be properly aligned. Alignment of
the electrode should be between 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch
from the top of the burner (Figure 8.14).
Setting the Dometic Burner Flame
Dometic refrigerators have employed several different
Figure 8.14 Norcold refrigerator has a fixed orifice; flame should be sharp blue with no yellow color.
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.19
types of burners over the years, and a different pro-
cedure is used for each when setting the proper flame.
■ The Bunsen B-type burner has a ceramic head
and a Klixon safety valve (Figure 8.15). When
the thermostat dial is turned to Max, the
flame must form a crown around the burner's
inner cone and have upright streaks through
its center holes. When properly set, the flame
will be blue and soft and may have a slightly
luminous tip. Air-adjustment rings on the
burner are turned to adjust the flame.
■ The cylindrical H-type burner has adjustable
primary air inlets combined with the Junker-
type thermoelectric flame-failure safety device
(Figure 8.16). Air-adjustment rings are used
for regulation of the flame. The correct flame
at Max setting should have a bright-blue
crown at the base of the flame and emit a
slight buzzing noise.
■ The E-type burner is designed with the jet
and adapter horizontally located, and the
8.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 8.15 Dometic Bunsen B-type burner is set
properly when the flame is blue and soft.
Figure 8.16 The Dometic "H" type burner flame
should have a bright-blue crown at the base of the
flame and emit a slight buzzing noise.
burner mixing tube is formed as a bend with
a vertical outlet (Figure 8.17). The primary air
inlets are preset and therefore not adjustable.
The burner is combined with the Junker-type
thermoelectric flame-failure safety device.
When adjusted properly, the flame at Max
Figure 8.17 The Dometic "E" type burner flame
should have a bright-blue crown at the base of the
flame and emit a slight buzzing noise.
setting should have a bright-blue crown at
the base of the flame and emit a slight
buzzing sound.
■ The AMES and AES refrigerators (Figure 8.18),
Silhouette models (Figure 8.19), and the
Royale and Elite systems (Figure 8.20)
use a horizontal burner, orifice, and thermo-
couple. This is combined with a manual
gas-shut-off valve and a solenoid valve, which
are controlled by the electronic system control
board. A gas-pressure test port is also provided.
Power-Module Replacement for
Dometic Electronically Controlled Refrigerators
Before replacing the power module (circuit board),
perform the following tests:
■ Test for dirty DC power by using a digital
voltmeter set on the AC scale. Probe the leads
to the main terminal block (Figure 8.21). A
reading of 6 volts AC or less is acceptable. If
the reading is more than 6 volts AC, check
the connections, wiring, and/or power con-
verter.
 CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.21

Figure 8.18 Dometic AMES and AES refrigerators

Figure 8.21 Probe leads to the main terminal

block when testing for dirty DC power.

Figure 8.19 Dometic Silhouette model

Figure 8.20 Dometic Royal and Elilte models

8.22 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

NOTE: A brief interruption of the DC power while the

refrigerator is operating on LP-gas can cause the check light
to illuminate.
■ Test the thermocouple; it should produce
24 to 30 millivolts DC (MVDC). If the DC
power is interrupted and then restored, the
thermocouple may not have sufficient time
to cool. If the power module sees more than
6 MVDC, it will assume there's a problem in
the LP-gas mode when the power is restored
and immediately turn on the check light. Any
reading less than 18 MVDC could relate to er-
ratic LP-gas operation. Improper mounting
and location of the thermocouple can cause
an erroneous reading.
Figure 8.22 Use a multimeter (DC volts) to check
■ To check for proper LP-gas pressure (11 inches power at the re-igniter.
water-column pressure), make sure half of all
the propane-fired appliances are on during
the test. The pressure at the refrigerator should
not exceed 12 inches of water-column pres-
sure with all the appliances off. Test LP-gas
pressure at the test port, after the solenoid,
with the refrigerator operating.
■ Make sure the burner assembly, the horizontal
metal tube with slots or holes located below
the flue tube of the cooling unit, is clean. The
burner should be cleaned periodically or at
least once a year. To clean the burner, soak it in
an alcohol-based solvent and allow to air dry.
NOTE: Be sure to test for gas leaks after reinstalling the burner
or any of the other components.
■ Verify that there is DC power at the re-ignitor Figure 8.23 Check the solenoid valve with a
(the electronic device that produces high multimeter set on the ohms scale.
voltage to create a spark to ignite a flame at
the burner when the refrigerator starts on LP- set on the ohms scale. Remove one of the
gas). Using a multimeter (DC volts) to check connectors (Figure 8.23) from the solenoid
power at the re-igniter (Figure 8.22), confirm and measure the resistance across the
that reading is within 1 volt of the voltage at terminals. The proper reading should be
the main terminal block in the back of the re- 44 to 53 ohms.
frigerator when the unit is performing an ig- ■ Check for continuity of the fuses (Figure 8.24)
nition operation. On some units, if the DC in the power module (under the cover). Never
voltage is below 12.5, the re-igniter will lock- replace a fuse with a larger one than specified
out the ignition cycle until reset. by the manufacturer. A special tester (PAL
■ Check the electrode (where the spark is pro- tester) is needed to test the power module it-
duced) for cracks and melting on the ceramic self. If all other tests fail to determine the
insulator. The proper mounting of the elec- cause of a malfunction, take the power mod-
trode should be directly over the burner with ule (circuit board) to a dealer who has the
a 3/16 inch gap. testing equipment and technical experience.
■ Check the solenoid valve with a multimeter ■ Check for DC voltage at plug 1, terminal 4 at

Figure 8.24 Remove the cover to check for conti-
nuity of fuses in the power module.
the lower circuit board (see Figure 8.24); the
main switch in the control panel must be off.
If no voltage is present, check fuses. Check for
DC voltage between J4 and J10 on the lower
circuit board; if the fuse is good and no DC
voltage is determined, replace the lower
circuit board.
■ Check for DC voltage at plug 1, terminal 1 on
the circuit board; the main switch in control
panel must be on. Voltage should be within 1
Figure 8.25 Probe terminals J3 and J10 of the power module with a multimeter to test for ground problems.
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.23
volt of the supply to the refrigerator. If no
voltage is present, the switch is faulty, and the
control panel should be replaced. If DC volt-
age is present, check for DC voltage at plug 1,
terminal 3. If there is no DC power present,
the circuit board is defective and should be
replaced.
NOTE: Always confirm circuit-board condition with an
appropriate tester (dealer).
Improper or dirty electrical grounds are one of the
biggest problems with refrigerators. A quick and easy
way to test for ground problems can be done with
a digital multimeter (millivolts). Probe the multim-
eter to terminals J3 and J10 of the power module
(Figure 8.25). Remove one of the connection wires
from the gas solenoid valve. The millivolt reading
should be 1 to 2 millivolts or less. Replace the wire
on the solenoid valve and, with the re-ignitor spark-
ing, the meter should read 5 millivolts or less. If
the meter shows more than 6 millivolts, there may
be a ground problem. Your dealer can install a spe-
cial wiring harness to solve this problem. With the
refrigerator running on gas (flame burning), there
should be a 25- to 30-millivolt reading. Shut off
the manual gas-cock valve (Figure 8.26) and watch
the millivolt reading as it drops.
8.24 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 8.26 Manual gas-cock valve
NOTE: The millivolt reading when the re-ignitor starts sparking
should read 7 to 13.
Check all connections on the 6-terminal ground
bus bar for tightness and corrosion. The connections
at the 4-pole main DC terminal block must be clean
and tight. Check connections at the battery and
the converter.
NOTE: Never replace the board—even after performing the above
checks—without having if tested by a qualified dealer with proper
instruments.
Cleaning the Refrigerator
The interior of the refrigerator should be thoroughly
cleaned on a regular basis. Remove the shelves and
wash the interior walls with a solution of lukewarm
water to which a small amount of baking soda or
dishwashing detergent has been added. Dry the sur-
faces thoroughly, especially around the door frame
and the door gasket. Warm water only should be used
to wash the cooling evaporator, ice trays, and shelves.
CAUTION: Never use strong chemicals or abrasive materials on
any part of the refrigerator interior.
Defrosting the Refrigerator
Before defrosting the refrigerator, move food to an-
other refrigerator, if possible, to prevent spoilage dur-
ing defrosting. To defrost the refrigerator, turn the
power-selector switch off. Fill trays or pans with hot
water and place them in the freezer compartment.
After all the frost has melted, empty the drip tray
from beneath the finned evaporator (if not drained
to the outside) and wipe up the excess moisture with
a clean cloth. Replace the drip tray and all the food.
Turn on the refrigerator, and turn the thermostat to
Max for a few hours for maximum cooling before re-
turning it to its normal position.
Refrigerator Odors
Odors inside the refrigerator are caused by improper
food storage. They may also be caused by infrequent
cleaning of the food compartment or if the refriger-
ator has been shut off for some time with the door
closed. Odors can be removed by careful cleaning of
the interior, using only a solution of warm water
combined with a small amount of either baking soda
or dishwashing detergent. Use no harsh chemicals
or abrasives.
Interior Liner Seal to Frame
There is a seal that is applied to the liner in the area
where the metal frame makes contact with the inte-
rior liner. If this seal is incomplete, cold air can mi-
grate out to the metal frame. If this happens,
condensation could form on the frame and could
promote rapid formation of frost. If you suspect an
improper seal, apply a small bead of silicone all
the way around the perimeter where the frame meets
the interior liner.
Remove all screws securing the refrigerator into
the cabinet and slide the refrigerator out approxi-
mately 2-4 inches. Clean the metal frame and foil-
backed insulation around the refrigerator. Apply a
foil-backed adhesive tape to the joint between outer
frame and foil-backed refrigerator insulation.
Make sure the refrigerator is dry and that the sur-
face temperatures are above 50° F. Use a clear sili-
con caulking compound and seal the seam between
the refrigerator's plastic liner and the metal frame.
Apply the silicon in a continuous bead around both
the refrigerator freezer and food compartments.
NOTE: To form a proper seal, if is important not to leave any gaps.
Door Switch
The door switch is an open switch when the switch
arm is depressed (interior light should be off). When

the refrigerator door is open the switch is closed (in-
terior light should be on). Check that the switch
assembly is properly aligned and that it is not bro-
ken. Check the switch assembly for continuity.
To do a continuity check, first be sure all power is
disconnected or OFF to the refrigerator. Second, re-
move all wires from the switch assembly, then check
the switch. After the check, be sure the switch as-
sembly is wired properly per the wiring diagram.
When the switch arm is depressed, there should
not be continuity. When the switch arm is NOT de-
pressed, there should be continuity. If any of these
checks are incorrect, replace the switch.
Door Position
The door position can be checked by observing any
misalignment of the door in relation to the frame.
To correct misalignment of the door, loosen the
hinge screws slightly, and reorient the door in the
proper position. Hold the door in its new position
and carefully retighten the hinge screws.
If the door needs more adjustment than is avail-
able through the hinge adjustment, the base can be
repositioned to reorient the door. Turn the refriger-
ator on its side to gain access to the two front base
screws. Loosen both screws slightly. Reposition the
base until the door is reoriented. Retighten the base
screws while holding the base in its new position.
Checking for Gas Leaks
Odors outside the refrigerator may be caused by
gas leaks. LP-gas is blended with a rotten-egg (sul-
fur) aroma to alert owners to leaks. To check for leaks:
■ Make sure all gas appliances are turned off.
Test gas connections and all joints in the gas
line with soapy water, up to and including
the gas valve.
■ Never look for a leak with an open flame.
Use a flashlight when necessary to look for
soap bubbles caused by leaks.
■ Turn on the gas valve and light burner, then
test connections between the gas valve and
the burner carefully with soapy water.
■ Do not use a solution that contains ammo-
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.25
nia, because ammonia will attack brass fit-
tings of the burner and gas-valve assemblies.
■ Odors outside the refrigerator may be caused
by improper burner flame. If the flame
touches the side of the boiler due to im-
proper location of the burner, relocate the
burner. Burner dislocation may also cause
smoke and discoloration of walls and ceiling.
Remember:
■ If the burner is damaged or faulty,
replace it.
■ If the flame touches the flue baffle,
correct the position of the baffle.
■ If the flue is dirty, clean it.
Cleaning the Flue Tube
The purpose of the flue system is to provide a draft
that will pull the burner flame into the central tube
and supply sufficient primary and secondary air to
the flame. The baffle is inserted in the central tube
to distribute the heat produced by the burner to the
boiler system. In order to obtain the best cooling per-
formance, it is important to use the correct size of
baffle and to position it properly.
A variety of problems may be caused by obstruc-
tions in the flue. If there are obstructions, they will
reduce or stop flue draft, cause odors in the refrig-
erator, slow the freezing process, and raise the tem-
perature inside the refrigerator. Flue stoppages may
also cause the flame to bum outside the central tube.
To clean the flue tube, loosen the burner assembly,
drop it down, and cover it with a rag so no debris from
the flue will fall into it. Lift out the spiral baffle on
its support wire from the flue top. Working from the
top of the flue, clean the tube with a suitable brush.
Also clean the baffle before reinstalling it.
In some refrigerators, it is not possible to reach the
top of the flue tube to remove the spiral baffle. In this
situation, cover the burner with a rag and then use air
pressure from the bottom of the flue to loosen rust.
In the 1200 LR, 900, and 9100 series Norcold re-
frigerators, the procedure for cleaning the flue in-
volves removal of the refrigerator from its enclosure.
This entails disconnecting 12-volt dc, 120-volt ag,
and gas-supply lines from the refrigerator. Remove
the front- and rear-mounting screws and slide the unit
8.26 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
forward and out of its enclosure. When the unit is
cool to the touch, remove the heat-deflector cap from
the flue. Then remove the spiral baffle from the flue
tube. Using a wire brush or fine emery cloth, clean
the spiral baffle of debris. Cover the burner, and clean
inside the flue tube with a flue brush. Reinstall the
flue baffle, insuring that the baffle is securely in place.
Finally, reinstall the refrigerator in its enclosure.
Flame Blow-out
If the flame blows out under especially windy condi-
tions, try to position the RV to avoid the wind blow-
ing against the wall where the vent outlets are located.
Make sure the metal shields around the burner box are
in place and secure. Confirm that the burner and flame
are adjusted correctly. If the problem persists, set the
thermostat to Max. This measure can only be tempo-
rary because, after a few hours, items in the refrigera-
tor compartment will freeze. Do not cover the vents to
prevent flame blow-out. Circulation of air is necessary
for proper and safe refrigerator operation.
The Thermoelectric Flame-Failure Safety Device
The reason for incorporating an automatic flame-
failure device in the burner assembly is to prevent
Figure 8.27 The thermocouple flame-failure safety device prevents unburned gas from escaping the burner.
unburned gas from escaping from the burner and to
avoid a fire if the flame has been extinguished or
blown out (Figure 8.27).
The device operates in this manner: By pressing
the button, the gas valve is opened and gas can pass
on to the burner. The thermocouple is located at the
burner. When the gas flame of the burner is ignited,
heat is transferred to the thermocouple feeler. This
heats the hot junction of the thermocouple feeler,
and an electric current is generated. This current passes
through the copper wire to the electromagnet.
As soon as the electric current is generated, the
electromagnet attaches the armature to the valve. The
button can then be released. As long as current is
flowing, the valve is kept open, allowing gas to pass
to the burner. When the flame is extinguished, the
heat transfer to the hot junction is interrupted and
no electric current is generated. The armature to the
valve is then forced back by a spring, and the gas flow
through the valve ceases.
Replacing the Thermoelectric Flame-Failure Safety Device
Replacement of the thermoelectric flame-failure safety
device is simple:
1. Unscrew and remove the end of the thermo-
electric unit from the valve housing of the

LP-gas-supply line.
2. Unscrew and remove the thermo-element
from the burner housing.
3. Bend the new thermo-element to match the
shape of the old one and screw the new unit
into place on the burner. Make sure the feeler
is located properly over the burner.
4. Check that there are no burrs inside the valve
housing that may cause leaks. Then install
the end of the thermo-element into the valve
housing of the LP-gas-supply line. The plug
must be properly tightened into the valve
housing to insure contact between the
thermo-element and the magnetic coil within
the housing.
Replacing the Safety-Valve Magnet
If the safety-valve magnet is defective, it must be re-
placed (Figure 8.28):
1. Unscrew the connecting plug on the thermo-
element from the housing nut.
2. Unscrew the housing nut and remove the de-
fective safety-valve magnet from the housing.
3. Fit a new magnet valve and insure that it is
properly inserted in the housing.
4. Fit the housing nut and the connection plug
and check that a good contact between the
contact plug on the thermo-element and the
Figure 8.28 Replacing the safety valve magnet in the thermocouple flame-failure safety device
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.27
contact on the safety-valve magnet is obtained.
Climate Control Heater
The climate control is a switch-operated DC elec-
tric heater. Its primary function is to warm the frame
of the refrigerator during high temperature/high hu-
midity conditions. This prevents the formation of
condensation on the metal frame.
To check the switch, disconnect the wires and do
a continuity check. In the OFF position, there should
be no continuity. In the ON position, there should
be a continuity reading.
To check the heater itself, do an ohms resistance
reading on the heater wire by using a properly cali-
brated ohm meter. The proper ohms reading is 24
ohms ± 10%. The approximate amp draw is less than
.5 (1/2) amp.
NOTE: The climate control will draw DC power continuously, so it
should be turned off when a charging source is not available.
Battery Protection System
The Dometic AES three-way control system is
equipped with a battery protection mechanism. If
AC power is not available, the control will switch
to the DC energy source. If the input voltage at the
terminal block connections is less than 12.8 volts,
the control system will bypass the DC energy source
8.28 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 8.29 Thermostat control assembly (exploded view)
and attempt GAS operation. If the GAS energy source
is available, CHECK lamp is on, the control system
will return to the DC energy source. The control will
operate in the DC mode for a maximum of 10 min-
utes.
If the input voltage has not returned to higher
than 12.8 volts within this time, the control will ter-
minate DC operation and turn off the DC lamp and
start gas operation if GAS energy source is available
and CHECK light is not on.
The input battery voltage must rise higher than
12.8 volts for 25 minutes before DC operation can
resume.
The Thermostat
If the thermostat-control assembly loses its charge, it
will become inoperative. To test for a lost charge, while
the flame is reduced to a minimum and the temper-
ature control is set at a numbered position on the dial,
remove the thermistor from its clamp in the evapo-
rator and warm the capillary end with a hand. If the
flame fails to increase in size, the thermostat has lost
its charge and must be replaced (Figure 8.29).
To replace the thermostat:
1. Shut off the gas supply.

2. Remove the capillary from its clamp on the
evaporator fins.
3. Remove sealing plugs on the outside and
inside of the cabinet.
4. Straighten the capillary and pull it through
the cabinet.
5. Remove the thermostat by unscrewing it from
the gas filter and the flame-failure safety device.
6. Install a new thermostat by reversing the or-
der of removal.
The Heater Element
Some refrigerators are equipped for both 120-volt
AC and 12-volt DC operation. The heat necessary for
operation of an absorption-cooling unit is supplied
by an electric cartridge heater mounted in a pocket
in the boiler system. If the heater is faulty, it must be
replaced. Be certain that the replacement heater is of
the proper wattage for your model refrigerator. If a
unit of too low or too high wattage is used, the re-
frigerator will not cool efficiently.
Replacing the Heater
To replace the heater:
1. Unplug the unit from the 120-volt AC power
supply and disconnect the wires leading to
the 12-volt DC power supply.
2. Open the lid or door on the boiler cover.
3. Remove as much of the boiler insulation as
necessary to give access to the heater unit.
4. Remove the defective heater unit.
5. Install the new heater unit and replace the in-
sulation material.
6. Close the lid or door to the boiler cover.
7. Reconnect the 12-volt DC power supply wires
and plug in the 120-volt AC power cord.
The Igniter
The igniter is an electronic device that produces high
voltage to create a spark at the burner when the re-
frigerator is in Gas mode. To test the igniter, you must
first verify that the 12-volt DC power is within 1 volt
CHAPTER 8 Refrigerators 8.29
of the supply voltage at the main power block dur-
ing the trial-for-ignition phase of the starting se-
quence. A drop of more than 1 volt indicates a loose
connection or a circuit-board problem. Next, dis-
connect the DC power at the main 12-volt power
block, remove the high-voltage cable from the ig-
niter, and reconnect the 12-volt DC power. The
refrigerator will go into the trial-for-ignition phase
of the starting sequence, and you should hear a spark-
ing sound coming from the igniter block. The igniter
will need to be replaced if there is no sound.
The piezo-electric igniter for all automatic Dometic
models (Figure 8.30) is part number 2931132019
(RV gas model 679). This is a self-contained 50 MA
unit that generally does not need maintenance. Nor-
cold igniters are a part of the control system and must
be matched to the refrigerator. For manual models,
a spring-loaded striker creates a spark as the sparker
button is pushed. If there is no resistance when press-
ing the button, the unit is defective and must be re-
placed. If there is an audible "snap," or the unit has
resistance when the button is pushed, but there is
no spark, the problem is in the electrode.
To replace the igniter you must:
1. Disconnect DC power at the terminal block.
2. Remove high-voltage cable from the igniter.
3. Reconnect DC power. The igniter should
produce a sparking sound.
4. If not, replace the igniter.
Figure 8.30 Piezo-crystal igniter used to light
burner in Dometic refrigerator
8.30 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Replacing the Flint-type Igniter
Refrigerator models equipped with flint-type ignit-
ers require periodic replacement of the flint itself
(Figure 8.31). To replace the flint, follow these steps:
1. Remove the outer burner shield.
2. Remove the lighter by loosening the screw
retaining the lighter.
3. Remove the cap and spring and tap out any
remaining piece of flint.
4. Install a new flint and reassemble in reverse
order.
3. Loosen the electrode from its cable by un-
screwing the electrode counterclockwise.
4. Install a new electrode. When attaching the
electrode to the burner housing, make sure
the insulation plate is properly fitted between
the burner housing and the electrode.
5. Adjust the spark gap. It must be set at 3/16 inch,
and the tip of the electrode must be posi-
tioned directly above the slots in the burner.
Norcold Electrode Replacement
If the electrode must be removed, follow these steps:

Replacing the Igniter Wheel 1. Remove the burner assembly.

If, after several years of use, the flint-type lighter fails
to function properly even after a new flint has been
installed, the serrated wheel may be worn and need
replacement. Follow these steps:
1. Remove the lighter as described for flint-type
igniter replacement.
2. Unscrew the rod from the serrated wheel and
install a new wheel.
2. Remove the ignition-electrode mounting
screw.
3. Remove the ignition electrode.
4. Remove the sensing-electrode mounting screw.
5. Remove the sensing electrode.
NOTE: Always check the spark gap after removing or
replacing the ignition electrode. The spark gap between the
electrode and the burner must measure 1/8 inch.

Dometic Electrode Replacement

To check the electrode:

1. Do a visual inspection for cracks or breaks on

the ceramic insulator.
2. Make sure the mounting bracket is attached
properly to the electrode.
3. If either of the above conditions is found, re-
place the electrode.

If the electrode requires replacement, follow

these steps:

1. Unscrew the burner outer shield.

2. Loosen the fastening screw holding the elec- Figure 8.31 Flint-type igniters used in some refrig-
trode against the side of the burner housing. erator models require periodic flint replacement.
 ■ CHAPTER 9 ■
TRAILER BRAKES
The function of trailer brakes is to safely reduce
trailer speed at the same time the tow vehicle
brakes are applied, or when the driver activates the
brake controller manual switch. Properly func-
tioning trailer brakes, acting in concert with the
brake system of the tow vehicle, help prevent over-
heating of the tow vehicle brakes while maintain-
ing speed control on long downhill stretches.
Independent use of trailer brakes, by the driver
activating the brake controller manual switch, can
reduce trailer sway caused by side-wind or passing
trucks. However, activating the brake controller
manual switch may also make a swaying condition
worse on wet or icy surfaces, so caution must be
exercised.
Two types of trailer-brake systems are in use to-
day: electric and surge. Surge brakes, typically used
on boat trailers, are rarely found on RVs. Although
both systems perform similar functions, they oper-
ate differently and require specific installation, main-
tenance, and repair procedures.
■ ELECTRIC BRAKES ■
Electric brakes are the standard of the RV industry
(Figure 9.1). They are engineered to operate simul-
taneously with the tow-vehicle brakes and are acti-
vated by the application of the tow-vehicle brake
system. Electric trailer-brake assemblies employ a
revolving armature located in the brake drum. An
electromagnet pivots on an arm with a cam that is
attached between the brake shoes. When the mag-
net is energized, current flows through it, causing a
magnetic attraction between it and the armature. The
magnet attempts to follow the rotation of the ar-
mature. This causes the cam to rotate, forcing the pri-
mary brake shoe against the drum and energizing
the secondary shoe, resulting in resistance to the ro-
tation of the drum. When the brakes are released,
the current ceases to flow through the magnet, re-
leasing it from the armature, and the return springs
pull the shoes away from the brake drum.
Electric current is directed from the tow-vehicle
battery via the brake controller and modulated (in
varying amounts) to the trailer brakes. The controller
is usually mounted on the lower edge of the vehi-
cle's dashboard within easy reach of the driver. Two
types of controllers are used with electric brake sys-
tems: electronic and electric hydraulic. In either case,
the controller is the first place to begin trou-
bleshooting whenever there is difficulty with an elec-
tric brake system.
■ SURGE BRAKES ■
Surge brakes (Figure 9.2) operate through an actua-
tor that is attached to the A-frame of the trailer. The
system is hydraulic and includes its own master cylin-
der. As the tow-vehicle brakes are applied, the trailer
pushes against the slowing tow vehicle, and the hy-
draulic actuator pushes a piston in the master cylin-
der. This, in turn, supplies hydraulic pressure to the
brakes, and automatically synchronizes the trailer
brakes with the tow-vehicle braking action.
■ HOW BRAKE CONTROLLERS WORK ■
The Electronic Brake Controller
Some electronic brake controllers should be mounted
in a position that is as level as possible, because they
9.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 9.1 Typical electric brake unit
incorporate a swinging pendulum inside. If perfectly
level installation is not possible, adjustment can be
made to compensate for the out-of level situation
(see "Controller Adjustment," page 9.16). Some elec-
tronic units that incorporate no moving parts and
can be installed in any position without respect to
being level. However, the Tekonsha Prodigy and Sen-
tinel must be installed in a position ranging from
horizontally level to 70 to 90 degrees nose up, re-
spectively.
One such electronic unit made by Draw-Tite uti-
lizes a circuit that applies power to the brakes by a
timed increase of power. This ramped timing cir-
cuit applies voltage to the brakes in a linear response
Figure 9.2 Trailer surge brakes
to the position of the sync dial located on the left
front side of the controller. The power output is also
adjustable by use of the dial located on the top right
of the unit. Because there are no moving parts, the
unit can be installed in any position without re-
gard to being level, even upside down. A manual-
override bar on the front of the controller allows the
driver to apply the trailer brakes without activating
the tow-vehicle service brakes. Some models of the
Draw-Tite feature a digital display that indicates the
precise amount of amperage selected by the driver
as the unit is adjusted.
The Tekonsha Voyager electric controller is an ex-
ample of a controller that is sensitive to the degree

Figure 9.3 Electric brakes in travel trailers are activated by 12-volt DC current fed from the tow-vehicle's
battery activated by the brake controller mounted under the dash.
of level and can be adjusted for level by turning the
wheel located on the left side. A housing that con-
tains a lamp and a light-sensitive device is connected
to the adjustment wheels. Also inside the housing is
the pendulum weight with a separating tab. When
the pendulum is at rest, the separator tab is posi-
Figure 9.4 Tekonsha Prodigy Electric Brake
Controller
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.3
tinned between the lamp and the light-sensitive de-
vice, blocking illumination.
As the tow vehicle brake pedal is applied, the elec-
tric controller red wire is energized through the tow
vehicle stoplight switch. This activates the brake con-
troller (Figure 9.3). The act of deceleration causes
the pendulum weight to move forward, allowing light
from the lamp to illuminate the light-sensitive de-
vice. The amount of light that is permitted to strike
the light-sensitive device establishes the requested
brake power in the brake controller and activates the
trailer-brake magnets. More light equals more re-
quested output, and thus more braking effort. The
force of deceleration moves the pendulum auto-
matlcally in direct proportion to the amount of brak-
ing applied to the tow vehicle by the driver. Whether
the tow vehicle brakes are applied smoothly or
abrupdy, the trailer brakes should respond similarly
because of the pendulum movement.
Tekonsha Prodigy
The most advanced brake controller from Tekon-
sha is the Prodigy. This is a proportional brake con-
troller, meaning that it applies brake effort to the
trailer brakes in direct proportion to declining speed
of the vehicle. Tekonsha engineered the Prodigy to
decelerate the trailer at the same speed as the tow ve-
9.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 9.5 Tekonsha Prodigy can be mounted from
horizontally level to 70 degrees up.
■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
TEKONSHA PRODIGY
Flashes 2 times a second or a steady display
Flashes 2 times per second
Flashes 2 times per second
The lower two bars flash
The upper two bars flash
Flashes for 15 seconds
No display with manual or pedal activation
No display until activation
No braking
hicle, for optimum control. When desired, the brake
controller can be activated independently of the tow
vehicle brakes by moving the manual knob.
Unlike timed controllers that apply full braking
effort regardless of pedal pressure, the Prodigy senses
the amount of stopping power that is needed,
whether the situation requires an emergency stop or
only a minor slowing. As the tow vehicle and trailer
come to a full stop, Prodigy gradually reduces brak-
ing effort to bring the vehicles smoothly to a stand-
still, rather than a sudden jerking halt.
Prodigy Operation Initialize Prodigy by setting the
power level. Move the manual control and adjust the
power knob until the digital display on the face of
the controller reads 6.0. Then tow the trailer to a dry,
level surface. Accelerate to 25 mph and reactivate the
manual control. If the trailer wheels lock up, slightly
reduce power by adjusting the power knob.
The digital display shows codes that indicate power
Trailer is connected and Prodigy loses connec-
tion to battery ground
Prodigy "sees" an overload condition during
operation
Brake wire sees short during idle connection
Use of some test lights or non-Tekonsha testers
can cause this problem
Prodigy is mounted at too low an angle
Prodigy is mounted at too high an angle
Trailer not connected to taw vehicle
Trailer connected with open circuit on brake
line
Trailer connector disconnected or corroded
Loss of trailer brake magnet ground
Loss of power to Prodigy
Loss of ground to Prodigy
Prodigy has gone to sleep due to no motion
for fifteen minutes
Power control set to 0
 CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.5

to the controller, a connected trailer, a disconnected

trailer, power level, etc. This makes it easy for the
driver to know what's going on with the trailer con-
nection at a glance.
There is a boost feature that is particularly effec-
tive when towing heavier trailers with lighter weight
tow vehicles. Pressing the boost button will allow a
more aggressive setup for the trailer brakes. There are
two levels of boost control, so the system can be tai-
lored to meet the driver's needs.
Prodigy functions the same whether driving for-
ward or in reverse. There may be occasions in which
the forward brake settings interfere with the backing
process. If that happens, the driver can override the
controller for a period of three minutes by pressing
the boost button while simultaneously depressing
the vehicle's brake pedal.
Figure 9.6 The Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller
Prodigy Installation This brake controller can be in-
stalled in any position ranging from horizontally
level to 70 degrees nose up, offering maximum in-
stallation flexibility. No further level adjustments are
necessary, as the unit will adjust itself to varying ter-
rain during travel.
The digital display has a flashing code that indi-
cates if the controller is mounted at either too low
or too high and angle, and out of optimum operat-
ing range.

Tekonsha Sentinel

Tekonsha's Sentinel, has an advanced design which

allows the unit to be mounted in virtually any po-
sition.
The Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller (Figure
9.6) is a user-friendly unit that is microprocessor
based and inertia activated. Sentinels come with built-
in diagnostics and LED displays that show braking
force and the correct level positions. They also au-
tomatically adjust for 2-, 4-, or 6-axle trailers.
The Sentinel can be mounted between 20° and
90° (Figure 9.7) without affecting the performance
of the unit. This makes the physical mounting very
easy even in today's crowded truck cabs.
The Electric-Hydraulic Brake Controller
An electric-hydraulic brake controller utilizes an
integral hydraulic cylinder to control the amount of
Figure 9.7 You can mount the Sentinel brake
controller at positions between 20° and 90°.
braking effort directed to the trailer brakes. As the
brake pedal of the tow vehicle is depressed, hydraulic-
fluid pressure from the vehicle's master cylinder
moves the piston inside the brake controller hydraulic
cylinder. Movement of this piston pushes the con-
troller's manual control arm toward the unit's
wire-wound resistor assembly, activating the control
automatically. Electric-hydraulic controllers are usu-
ally not used on vehicles with antilock braking sys-
tems, unless specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
9.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Jordan Brake Controllers
Jordan Research Corporation's electronic controller,
the Mark IV, is activated by a small current delivered
from the stoplight switch. Because there are no mov-
ing parts, the unit can be installed in any position
without regard to being level. A red manual override
bar on the front of the controller allows the driver
to apply the trailer brakes without activating the tow-
vehicle brakes. Once it is properly wired, the only
modification is a slide adjustment according to the
number of brakes on the trailer. The Mark IV is rec-
ommended for trailers with no more than four brakes
in the system.
The Quantum is a switchable electronic unit for
use with trailers equipped with two, four, six, or eight
brakes. In addition to selectability for the total num-
ber of brakes on the trailer, the controller is also
adjustable for the intensity of braking desired. The
Quantum features a digital display that indicates the
precise amount of amperage selected by the driver
as the unit is adjusted. As a fully electronic controller
with no internal moving components, it can be in-
stalled in any position within easy reach of the driver.
A red manual override button gives the driver the op-
tion of activating the trailer brakes independently of
the tow-vehicle brakes.
The Jordan Research Ultima 2020 brake control
unit provides proportional braking to the trailer by
use of a strain gauge mounted inside the controller
that measures the amount of pull from a cable
mounted on the brake pedal arm of the tow vehicle.
The Jordan 2100 Actuator is an electronic trailer
brake activator in a vary small package measuring only
3-1/4 x 2-1/8 x 1 inches. The unit may be mounted
in any position, angle or location as long the driver
can easily reach the manual override button.
Hayes Lemmerz Micro Control Brake Controller
The Hayes Lemmerz electronic brake controller uti-
lizes a pendulum leveling arm and a system of mag-
nets, a hall device, and a detector assembly. During
braking, when the tow-vehicle stoplights come on,
the control module electronic circuit is activated by
current on the red wire connected to the tow-vehi-
cle stoplight switch. As the tow vehicle decelerates,
due to increased pedal effort, the magnet in the pen-
dulum pulls away from the hall device and sends an
electrical signal to the control module to increase
amperage to the trailer brakes. The trailer brakes ap-
ply in direct proportion to the tow-vehicle braking
effort. The control-module indicator light illumi-
nates from dim to bright during the stop and goes
dim at the end of the stop. When the tow-vehicle
pedal is released, the control module is turned off
and the indicator light turns off.
Because electric current travels and activates the
trailer brakes faster than the hydraulic-brake sys-
tem of the tow vehicle, the trailer should feel as if it
is braking just slightly before the tow vehicle.
The computer era has had its effect on trailer brake
controllers, as evidenced by the Micro Control HD
Plus, a microprocessor-equipped controller. Once
properly installed and adjusted, this unit can be op-
erated automatically or manually. In the automatic
mode, the control module continuously monitors
the vehicle's brake-light switch. When the brake pedal
is pressed, the pendulum sensor provides a direct
measurement of tow-vehicle deceleration, and the
microprocessor converts the deceleration value to an
output current for the trailer brakes. All this happens
in direct proportion to the tow vehicle's braking ef-
fort.
The driver can override the automatic mode and
actuate the trailer brakes without activating the tow-
vehicle service brakes. The manual button allows the
driver to fully apply the trailer brakes at any time,
and, as a safety feature, when the trailer brakes are
applied in manual mode, both the tow-vehicle and
the trailer-brake lights will come on to alert other
drivers.
This controller also features a remote manual
switch, which can be held in one's hand, allowing
the driver to activate the trailer brakes without re-
moving his or her hands from the steering wheel.
■ TESTING PROCEDURES ■
FOR TRAILER BRAKES
Testing the Electrical Circuit
When testing the electric-brake circuit and compo-
nents, use a multimeter (amps). The following pro-
cedure indicates if current is flowing from the battery
to the trailer brakes.
 CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.7

CAUTION: To prevent damage to the multimeter, connect one lead, Table 9.1 Minimum Current Values in Amperes
then touch the other lead. It the needle moves in the opposite direction Brake Drum Two Four Six
on the scale, the polarity is reversed. To correct, simply reverse the leads. Diameter Brakes Brakes Brakes
7-inches 3.8-4.4 7.6-8.8 9.4-13.2
10-12-inches 6-6.5 12-13 18-19.5
1. Connect the trailer's electrical plug to the tow
vehicle.
2. Connect the multimeter (amps) in series
2. Remove the controller from the vehicle:
with the wire leading from the controller to
a. Remove the cover from the unit
the electric brakes.
(Figure 9.8).
3. Actuate the controller.
b. Check the resistor coil for burnout,
a. Electronic: Set gain control to maximum.
using a multimeter (continuity).
Move the manual lever to the applied
position. c. Check the hydraulic cylinder that
actuates the lever, looking for leakage.
b. Hydraulic: Apply the tow-vehicle brake
Replace if necessary.
pedal.

The amperage reading will vary as you apply more

Testing the Electronic Controller
brake-pedal pressure or move the manual control
arm to the fully applied position. The minimum low
Check for open wires to the cold side of the stoplight
current will be 1 to 1-3/4 amperes. The maximum
switch, the battery, the ground, and the service cir-
amount of amperes depends on the size and num-
cuits with the multimeter (Figure 9.9).
ber of brakes on the trailer (Table 9.1). Each elec-
NOTE: If a short circuit exists in the trailer-brake wire (blue), the
tromagnet can draw about 3 to 4 amperes.
electronic controller is designed to shut off. After the short is corrected,
the brake controller should function normally. Improper loading on ve-
hicle circuits can deploy the vehicle's air bag. Make certain you have the
Checking for Low Maximum Current
proper circuit before probing.

If a low maximum current is registered, use a mul-

timeter (voltage and continuity) to check the fol-
■ CONTROLLER INSTALLATION ■
lowing:

The Electronic Brake Controller

■ Check the complete electric brake system for
faulty wire connections.
The controller must be installed on a solid surface,
■ Check the trailer plug and tow-vehicle recep-
normally beneath the dashboard, with the rear of
tacle for corrosion. If there are any signs of
the controller toward the front of the tow vehicle
bad contact points, replace the plug or recep-
(Figure 9.10). Ideally, position the controller within
tacle as necessary.
easy reach of the driver.
■ Check the electromagnets for wear or shorting.
For those controllers that must be leveled prior to
■ If no current registers on the multimeter, test
final installation, hold the controller in the intended
the controller.
location (after all connections are completed) and
check to see that the pendulum can be adjusted prop-
erly. If the pendulum cannot be adjusted properly
Testing the Hydraulic Controller
due to excessive controller angle, another location
must be selected that is more level.
To test the hydraulic controller:
All electronic controllers are designed for use with
12-volt DC, negative-ground systems only. Revers-
1. Using a multimeter, check for open wires
ing polarity or miswiring can cause permanent dam-
to the stoplight switch, the battery, and the
age to the controller.
service circuits.
9.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE E L E C T R I C B R A K E S Y S T E M

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Weak brakes Loose connections Check that all connections are clean and
tight
Inadequate trailer ground Check for proper grounding
Short circuit Check electrical circuit
Incorrect variable resistor setting Check for proper setting to avoid too
much resistance
Worn or defective magnets Replace magnets
Poor brake adjustment Adjust brakes
Bent backing plate Check backing plate flange; correct
if necessary
Contaminated lining Check and replace contaminated linings
Inadequate gauge of wire Refer to manufacturer's wiring
recommendations
Stoplights connected in brake circuit Stoplights must not be connected in the
brake circuit; the graduation of the current
changes as it passes through the controller,
resulting in weak or grabbing brakes; wire
a separate circuit for the stoplight switch
Improper linings Replace with proper linings
Worn linings Reline with new linings
Worn brake drums Inspect the brake-drum surface; it should
be free of scoring and excessive wear;
machine or replace drums as necessary
Out-of-round drums Machine brake drums
Loose axle on springs or frames Inspect and make necessary repairs
Loose lining on rivets Replace brake shoes
Excessive load on trailer Check to be sure trailer is not
underbraked; check the brakes on each
axle to make sure they are working
Using trailer brakes only Use of trailer brakes only can cause brake
fade or loss of friction due to excessive heat
No brakes Open circuit Check for broken wires, loose connections,
improper grounding, or faulty connector plug
Improperly wired or inoperative controller Rewire controller; check controller
operation.
Poor brake adjustment Adjust brakes
Defective variable resistor Check for loose or broken connections
Worn or defective magnet(s) Replace magnets
Short circuit Check electrical circuit
Defective connector plug Check plug between tow vehicle and trailer
for loose connections, dirty or corroded
blades, or broken Bakelite insert in socket,
shorting blades or pins
Burned-out resistor Check resistor for continuity; replace if necessary.
 CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.9

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE E L E C T R I C B R A K E S Y S T E M , c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Intermittent or surging brakes Out-of-round drums Turn or replace drums

Inadequate trailer ground Check for proper grounding
NOTE: A ground through the coupler and
ball is inadequate.
Broken magnet lead wires Bench-check magnets and replace
if necessary
Loose wheel bearings Check and adjust bearings
Noisy Brakes Excessively worn lining Check and replace shoes if necessary
Weak or broken springs Check for weak or broken springs;
replace if necessary
Improperly located flange; bent backing plate Check and repair if necessary
Contaminated linings Check and replace contaminated linings
Improper bearing adjustment Check and adjust wheel bearings; check
for worn or damaged bearings; replace
if necessary.
Incorrectly adjusted brakes Check brake adjustment
Improperly adjusted shoes Adjust starwheel until there is a heavy
drag, then back off adjuster slightly
Grease on linings Replace leaky seal and linings
Worn magnets Check for excessive or uneven wear;
replace if necessary
Breakaway switch fails to function Weak or dead battery Replace with new 12-volt DC battery;,
if brakes fail to function, replace
breakaway switch.
Faulty breakaway-switch wiring Check breakaway-switch circuit for broken
or frayed wires; replace wire where
necessary. Each splice must have a
good connection
Faulty breakaway switch Check breakaway switch by pulling pin and
attempting to tow trailer; if switch works,
brakes will engage. Electrically disconnect
tow vehicle from trailer to avoid destroy-
ing brake control.
Only one brake working Check the amperage at each brake; where
no amperage is indicated, check the wires
leading to brake; if no defect is found,
remove magnet from backing plate and
check for amperage capacity, ground, or
short; if brake is okay electrically, check
for mechanical defects.
Poor electrical connections Check wiring for loose connections, broken
wires, or worn insulation; rewire as
necessary.
9.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE E L E C T R I C B R A K E S Y S T E M , c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Grabbing or locking brakes Improperly installed flanges Check flange locations; refer to axle
manufacturer
Contaminated linings Check and replace badly contaminated
linings
Controller too sensitive Adjust brake controller
No variable resistor A variable resistor is required when brakes
have greater stopping power than is
necessary for the weight on the axle;
install variable resistor when necessary.
NOTE: Not required with electronic
brake controller
Weak or broken springs Check for weak or broken springs; replace
if necessary.
Dragging brakes Incorrectly adjusted brakes Check brake adjustment
Insufficient gap between hydraulic controller Replace controller contact pins and coil
Excessive residual pressure in the tow-vehicle Purge tow-vehicle hydraulic lines; replace
hydraulic system or "gummed up" hydraulic fluid; replace controller
controller cylinder
Improperly installed flanges Check flange location; refer to axle
manufacturer
Badly corroded brake assembly Check brake assemblies for corrosion;
be sure magnet levers operate freely;
clean and lubricate brake assemblies
Weak or broken springs Check for weak or broken springs;
replace if necessary
Worn or bent magnet lever arm Replace magnet and lever arm

Figure 9.8 The resistor coil in the hydraulic brake Figure 9.9 The cold side of the brake-light switch
controller is tested for burnout using a multimeter. can be determined by using a multimeter or test light.
 CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.11

NOTE: Electronic controllers should be wired directly to the positive

and negative terminals of the battery. In many cases, using the chassis
for a ground con cause erratic (and unsafe) operation of the electronic
controller.
It is recommended that all connections be made
with insulated, solderless, crimp-style connectors.
Use a rubber grommet where wires pass through the
firewall for protection of the wiring and to seal against
air leaks.
Figure 9.10 The brake controller must be within
easy reach of the driver.
Wiring the Electronic Brake Controller

Wiring should be done in the following order (Fig-
ure 9.11):
3. Red wire to cold side of stoplight switch.
1. White wire to the negative terminal of the
battery. Do not use a frame ground.
2. Black wire to the positive side of the battery.
When routing this wire, keep it away from
the radio antenna (or other radio transmit-
ters) to reduce possible RF interference. Use
10- or 12-gauge stranded wire.
CAUTION: Do not use a fuse. A 20- or 30-amp automatic-
reset circuit breaker (depending on model) should be used to
protect this wiring.
WARNING: Do not reverse the white and black wires.
Reversal will destroy the brake control.
Note that the cold side of the stoplight switch
is only energized when the brake pedal is
pushed.
CAUTION: Some vehicles are equipped with separate
switches for the transmission converter and the cruise control.
Be sure the red wire is connected to the nonpowered side of the
stoplight switch. If not properly connected to the stoplight
switch, the indicator light and trailer brakes will not operate in
conjunction with the vehicle brake pedal. To locate the non-
powered wire, use a multimeter or 12-volt DC test light.

Figure 9.11 Electronic brake-controller wiring procedure

9.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Connect one test lead to the ground and the other lead to one
of the two stoplight switch terminals. The nonpowered wire is
the one that turns on the test light or registers voltage when the
brake pedal is depressed and registers no voltage or is off when
the brake pedal is released.
4. Blue wire to trailer brakes. This wire has elec-
tronic short-circuit protection. Note that some
makes and models of tow vehicles are wired in
such a manner that the wire coming from the
four-way-flasher circuit is connected to the cold
side of the brakelight switch. This causes the
trailer-brake controller to turn on every time
the four-way flasher flashes and results in brake
pulsation. Some trailer-brake systems are so
sensitive that this pulsing may become objec-
tionable. To overcome this problem, install a
Tekonsha Pulse Preventer (part number
2180-S) or a Draw-Tite Pulse Preventer (part
number 5501) to isolate the brake-light current
from the four-way-flasher current. With a Pulse
Preventer in place, brake-switch current can
flow to the brake lights, but four-way-flasher
current cannot flow to the brake-light switch or
the brake controller.
The Hayes Lemmerz 81741 control module allows
the four-way-flasher lights to operate without af-
fecting the trailer brakes, but the pendulum and load
control knob must be adjusted properly. If the con-
trol module is not properly adjusted, the trailer brakes
may pulse when the four-way-flasher lights are
activated.
NOTE: Always use the factory wiring when vehicle is equipped with
a towing package.
The Electric-Hydraulic Brake Controller
CAUTION: Electric-hydraulic trailer-brake controllers are not intended for
use with some small vehicles because the brake master cylinders are too
small. Installation of a hydraulic brake controller in these vehicles will re-
sult in the manufacturer voiding the warranty. For these vehicles, install an
electronic brake controller that does not tap into the tow vehicle's hydraulic
brake system. Hydraulic brake controllers may not be used on certain ve-
hicles with antilock braking systems (ABS). Check the vehicle owner's man-
ual for recommendations concerning trailer-brake controllers.
Install the controller mounting bracket at a solid
location (normally beneath the dashboard).Connect
the hydraulic line from the brake controller to the
tow-vehicle master cylinder. Late-model vehicles fea-
ture dual or divided master-cylinder systems with
two outlets: one for front brakes and one for rear
brakes. Select the proper brake-control-adapter T-fit-
ting for your particular vehicle. This T-fitting should
be inserted at the outlet on the master cylinder serv-
ing the rear brakes. Be sure the rear brake outlet is
properly identified by referring to the vehicle owner's
manual or by following the hydraulic line from the
rear brakes to the master cylinder.
CAUTION: Use only cadmium-plated adapter T-fittings on aluminum
master cylinders. Cadmium plating prevents electrolytic corrosion, which
can severely damage the threads in the master cylinder over a period
of time. When working with a cast-iron master cylinder, use either a
cadmium-plated or a standard brass T-fitting. Do not use a compression
fitting to connect the hydraulic line to the master cylinder. A compres-
sion fitting has only a quarter of the design strength of an automotive
brake line. Compression fittings will not provide the proper gripping force
on steel brake lines.
To make the hydraulic connection:
1. Assemble the tube fitting to the T-connector.
2. The tube fitting should be turned hand tight.
3. Tighten the assembly with a wrench until it
feels solid.
4. Apply 1/6 turn more. Do not overtighten since
it may damage the fitting and/or threads.
IMPORTANT: Do not run the tubing in a straight line. Put
a small loop in the line (to permit flexing) before running it
through the firewall (Figure 9.12).
Figure 9.12 A loop in the hydraulic tubing
between the master cylinder and firewall must be
used when installing a hydraulic brake controller.

Bleed the hydraulic line by loosening the fitting
at the brake controller. Press the brake pedal to al-
low the line to fill with fluid and expel all air. Hold
a small container or a rag below the fitting to catch
escaping brake fluid. Keep the brake pedal depressed
until fluid flows continuously without sputtering.
Tighten the fitting before allowing the brake pedal
to be released. Check for leaks by depressing the pedal
again several times while observing the connections
at the master cylinder and at the brake controller.
Check master cylinder fluid level and fill if necessary.
Wiring the Electric-Hydraulic Brake Controller
Use 12-gauge automotive grade wire or larger for
wiring the electric-hydraulic brake controller (Fig-
ures 9.13 and 9.14).
Figure 9.13 Wiring diagram for Tekonsha hydraulic brake-controller installation
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.13
1. Connect the black wire to the positive termi-
nal of the battery.
2. To protect the brake controller and vehicle
wiring, an automatic-reset circuit breaker
should be installed in the black wire between
the battery and the brake controller. Use a
15-amp circuit breaker for two-brake trailers,
a 20-amp circuit breaker for four-brake trail-
ers, and a 30-amp circuit breaker for six-brake
trailers.
3. Connect the blue wire to the brake-system
pin in the tow vehicle/trailer connector plug.
If the brake controller provides too much
braking—regardless of the adjustment-knob
position—install a variable resistor in the
blue wire. This resistor should be installed in
an unobstructed location under the hood.
4. Connect the red wire to the cold side of the
stoplight switch.
9.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 9.14 Wiring diagram for Hayes Lemmerz hydraulic brake-controller installation
Jordan Research Ultima 2020
Place the brake arm bracket assembly onto the
brake pedal arm as high up the arm as possible. Have
someone press on the brake pedal while you meas-
ure the amount of brake pedal arm travel. Move the
bracket up and down the arm until it has 1-1/8-inch
of travel. Tighten the forward screw until the bracket
begins to deform. Tighten the front screw until it
contacts the brake pedal arm. Rotate the bracket un-
til it is aligned with the point on the dashboard where
the cable clamp for the controller will be located.
Tighten the front screw.
The controller should be placed so that the ca-
ble from the controller to the brake pedal bracket
is in a straight line. Mount the cable clamp to the
front edge of the dashboard so that it is aligned with
the brake pedal bracket. The cable clamp may have
to be bent to gain the proper fit on the individual
dashboard.
Wiring the display module involves three wires.
The red wire goes to the positive (+) side of the bat-
tery through a 20-amp circuit breaker. The white wire
goes to the negative (-) side of the battery and the
blue wire connects to the trailer brakes. Minimum
wire gauges: 14 AWG for two or four brake systems;
12 AWG for six brake systems.
To adjust the unit: Turn the output control located
on the front of the display module fully clockwise.
This is the maximum power position. Plug the trailer
into the tow vehicle. The continuity LED should il-
luminate, indicating a good connection.
Being careful not to move the brake pedal, make
sure the ball end of the control module is seated into
the large hole in the control module mounting
bracket. Pull the control cable with your fingers and
pull on it until the ammeter display just turns on.
Release the cable until the ammeter display just turns
off. Tighten the set screw with an Allen wrench. Cut
off the excess control cable approximately one inch
from the back of the control module.
When the brake pedal is pushed, the cable from
the control module should move smoothly and the
display on the front of the module should give a read-
ing in amperes.
With the output control set to maximum, fully
 C H A P T E R 9 Trailer Brakes 9.15

Figure 9.15 Jordan Research Ultima 2020 Control Cable mounting.

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
J O R D A N R E S E A R C H U L T I M A 2 0 2 0

Situation Probable Cause

Green Continuity Light is not illuminated when trailer is The trailer is connected with an open circuit on brake line

electrically connected Corrosion on trailer plug contacts

Loose 12 volt connection

Green Continuity Light is illuminated but no digits appear Output adjustment is too low
when applying brakes (trailer brakes function). Defective Display Module
Green Continuity Light is illuminated without a trailer connected. Brake wire (blue) connected to wrong pin in tow vehicle con-
nector
Wire shorted in tow vehicle or connector
Green Continuity Light dims or goes out with brake application Normal operation
Digits appear on the Ammeter screen without applying brakes Control Module is not adjusted correctly
Readings of 00.3 to 1.00 appear on the ammeter when brakes are Normal operation
applied without the trailer attached
Brakes are aggressive or lock up at low ammeter readings Loose trailer brake adjustment
Bad ground condition
88.8 appears on ammeter (trailer brakes inoperative) Short circuit in system

Decimal Point only Defective Display Module

9.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
clockwise, and the green continuity indicator illu-
minated, fully depress the manual button. Each mag-
net will draw 2.5 to 3.0 amps. The following normal
readings should show on the ammeter:
2 brakes=5 to 6 amperes
4 brakes=10 to 12 amperes
6 brakes=15 to 18 amperes
■ CONTROLLER ADJUSTMENT ■
Electronic Controllers
It may be necessary to adjust the brake controller
to compensate for an out-of-level mounting posi-
tion. This is accomplished by rotating the level-
adjustment wheel/knob (for older Tekonsha units,
it's located underneath the controller; newer mod-
els have this adjustment on the left side or on the
front panel), or the pendulum leveling arm (for
Kelsey, it's on the left side of the controller).
Tekonsha Brake-Controller Adjustment
On some models, if the front of the Tekonsha con-
troller is tipped too far upward, the pendulum may
be out of position. When this happens, the indicator
light on the face of the controller will glow brightly,
indicating that the brakes are being activated even
though there is no pressure on the tow-vehicle brake
pedal. To correct this condition, the tow vehicle must
be resting on level ground with the engine running.
The trailer plug does not have to be connected for
older models, but will have to be connected for later
versions, except for the Sentinel and Prodigy. Although
the control positions may be in different locations
on the Tekonsha controllers, the steps for making the
adjustment are relatively the same.
To level the Sensor, Tekonsha Voyager:
1. Make sure the trailer and tow vehicle are on
level ground.
2. Plug the trailer harness into the tow-vehicle
receptacle. The LED will only glow green when
the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle.
3. Set the gain control (right side) to the maxi-
mum position by turning the knob clockwise
(total rotation is only 270 degrees).
4. Depress the brake pedal and hold.
5. Rotate the level-control knob (left side) coun-
terclockwise until the LED starts to change
from green to red.
6. Carefully rotate the level-control knob clock-
wise until the first shade of orange appears.
The LED will glow dim orange for a typical
setting and a brighter orange for a more ag-
gressive setting. Use caution when turning
this knob; zero to full output is less than
20 degrees or a 1/8 inch turn.
7. Release the brake pedal.
To level the Sensor, Tekonsha Sentinel:
1. Make sure the tow vehicle is on level ground.
2. The trailer harness does not need to be
plugged in.
3. Set the gain wheel (front panel, left side) to
maximum (rotate upward until three bars
inscribed on the wheel show).
4. With the brake pedal depressed, the bi-colored
LED (right of level knob) should glow red
(controller is shipped from factory at maxi-
mum clockwise position).
5. Rotate the level knob counterclockwise until
the bi-colored LED glows green.
6. Slowly turn the knob until the red light just
shows, then turn counterclockwise until solid
green is visible.
7. Release the brake pedal.
If the controller has been previously adjusted and
the LED is clear, rotate the level knob (with brake
pedal depressed and gain set to maximum as per
above) clockwise until bi-colored LED turns green.
Unit is now adjusted correctly.
To level the Sensor, older Tekonsha models:
1. Make sure the tow vehicle is on level ground.
2. The trailer harness does not have to be
connected.
3. Set the gain control to minimum; depress the
brake pedal and hold.
4. Rotate the adjustment wheel (on bottom
panel) toward the rear of the controller as far
as it will go. As the wheel is being turned, the
indicator light will begin to flicker.

5. Rotate the adjustment wheel toward the front
of the unit until the indicator light glows
steadily.
6. Again, rotate the adjustment wheel back to-
ward the rear of the unit until the indicator
light just begins to flicker.
7. Release the brake pedal. The adjustment
wheel is now set.
The only other adjustment to be made is to set
the gain control. This is done after the level control
has been set. When making this adjustment, the trailer
must be connected. Proper gain-control adjustment
is just before trailer-brake lock-up.
1. Set gain to about the halfway position.
2. Tow the trailer at low speed (20 MPH) on a
level, hard, dry surface.
3. Slowly move the manual lever on the con-
troller to the full-on position.
4. If the trailer brakes don't lock up, increase
the gain control.
5. Repeat the procedure until the maximum gain-
control setting (decrease or increase as neces-
sary) without trailer-wheel lock-up is found.
Leave the gain control set to that position.
6. To check automatic operation, use the tow-
vehicle foot brake at low speed. The tow-
vehicle and trailer should make a smooth,
straight stop.
7. The gain-control setting is adjustable and
should be varied to compensate for great
changes in trailer weight and road condi-
tions.
Adjusting the Hayes Lemmerz Brake Controller
Adjustment of the Hayes Lemmerz controller involves
setting the pendulum leveling arm and the load-con-
trol knob.
1. Hitch the trailer to the tow vehicle for this
adjustment. If an equalizing hitch system is
used, it should be operational and ready to
go on the road. Make sure the tow vehicle
and trailer are resting on a flat, level surface.
Check to see if the tow vehicle stoplights are
operating correctly, then disconnect all elec-
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.17
trical connections between the tow vehicle
and the trailer.
2. Adjust the load-control knob to its maxi-
mum brake position.
3. Depress the brake pedal far enough to acti-
vate the tow-vehicle stoplights. Hold this
position.
4. Pull the pendulum leveling arm toward the
indicator light. The indicator light should
illuminate brightly.
5. Push the pendulum-leveling arm away from
the indicator light until the light just
reaches minimum brilliance (or just goes
off). The leveling arm should be approxi-
mately straight down. Repeat this step sev-
eral times to make sure the indicator light
has reached minimum brilliance.
6. Release the brake pedal. The pendulum as-
sembly is now initially adjusted. A readjust-
ment may be necessary if the loading of
either the tow vehicle or trailer causes a con-
siderable change in the tow-vehicle front-to-
rear attitude.
7. Move the control-module manual lever to
the left and observe the control-module in-
dicator light become increasingly brighter as
the lever is moved.
8. If the indicator light does not illuminate,
the tow vehicle has a short to ground in the
trailer-brake circuit. Check and repair as
necessary.
9. Connect the trailer to the tow vehicle and
check the trailer to see if the stoplights are
operating properly. Move the control-mod-
ule manual lever to the left. If the indicator
light does not illuminate, check the
trailer-brake magnets and trailer-brake cir-
cuit (including trailer-to-tow vehicle con-
nection) for a short. If a short occurs in the
trailer brakes, plug, or wiring, the control-
module circuitry will shut down and the in-
dicator light will not illuminate or will glow
extremely dimly. Locate and correct short.
NOTE: It is normal to hear the trailer-brake magnets hum
while testing the controller, or whenever the trailer brakes
are activated.
10. Move the control-module manual lever to
the left and observe the trailer stoplights
come on. The trailer stoplights must illumi-
9.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
nate when the manual lever is moved to the
left. If they do not, check circuit and bulbs.
Also check to see if the red wire connection
at the brake controller is connected to the
nonpowered side of the stoplight switch.
Road Testing and Readjusting
the Hayes Lemmerz Controller
To road test and readjust the Kelsey controller, fol-
low this procedure:
1. Adjust the load-control knob to the
mid-range setting (center of knob travel).
2. At a moderate speed (20 MPH or less), push
the tow-vehicle brake pedal in a normal man-
ner. With the load-control knob set in the
mid-range setting, a firm braking action
should occur. If more trailer braking is re-
quired, turn the load-control knob clockwise.
If less trailer braking is required, turn the
load-control knob counterclockwise. The in-
dicator light should illuminate from dim to
brighter during the stop, and back to dim af-
ter the stop is completed.
3. At a moderate speed (20 MPH or less), activate
the manual lever slowly to the left. A much
harder stop can always be obtained since the
manual lever is not affected by the load-con-
trol setting. The indicator light should illumi-
nate from dim to bright during the stop.
4. The pendulum leveling arm may be read-
justed forward if the indicator light fails to
glow, if there is delayed braking, or if there is
no braking.
5. The pendulum leveling arm needs to be read-
justed backward if the indicator light glows
steadily, if the trailer brakes grab, or if the
trailer brakes pulse when the four-way flasher
is activated.
6. The pendulum leveling arm is properly ad-
justed if the indicator light glows dimly when
the vehicle is stopped on the level and the in-
dicator light glows increasingly brighter as
the pedal is pressed while stopping. There
should be smooth braking action.
When properly adjusted, the Kelsey control mod-
ule will allow a slightly greater amount of trailer brak-
ing when going downhill and slightly less trailer brak-
ing when going uphill. Normally, no control-module
readjustment is needed for towing in hilly terrain.
Adjusting the Electric-Hydraulic Controller
An adjustment spring on electric-hydraulic brake
controllers allows the driver to alter the amount of
fluid displacement required to move the hydraulic
piston and activate the trailer brakes. When the ad-
justment spring is altered, the amount of brake-pedal
pressure required changes slightly, increasing or de-
creasing actuation of trailer brakes. This adjustment
is made either with a fingertip-adjustment wheel or
by turning the knob on the manual control arm, de-
pending upon the unit brand and model.
Adjusting the Hayes Lemmerz Micro Control
HD Plus Controller
Pendulum setup must be performed when the con-
troller is initially installed and after the control mod-
ule loses its power connection to the battery. If the
module loses power, stored data will be lost.
To level the pendulum, the leveling-adjustment pro-
cedure should be made with the vehicle parked on level
ground. Position the pendulum arm so it points straight
down, perpendicular to the ground. This is the refer-
ence point for all pendulum adjustments.
With the pendulum level, the microprocessor must
mark this position as zero. The zero-adjust is only
needed once to capture the reference starting point.
If the control module loses its memory as a result of
power disconnection, the zero-adjust routine must
be performed again. To perform the zero-adjust, push
and hold the gain-select button for approximately
five seconds. The LED display will flash when the
zero-adjust is complete.
The gain setting is used to adjust the intensity of
trailer braking, and it is set according to the load
weight and axle capacity. The gain setting is adjusted
by the driver and is automatically stored in the mi-
croprocessor memory. When the controller is pow-
ered up for the first time, the gain setting defaults to
a value of 1. Current gain settings can be displayed
by pressing and releasing the gain button. Each ad-
 CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.19

ditional push of the button increases the gain set-

ting by a value of 1. If a gain setting is too soft or too
hard, it can be adjusted up or down until the desired
braking effort is set.
To use the gain setting chart (Table 9.2):

■ Determine the total axle capacity for the

trailer.
■ Determine the total loaded-trailer weight.
■ Compute the load-weight-to-axle-capacity
ratio by dividing the total trailer weight into
the total axle capacity. For example, if the
trailer has a total axle capacity of 10,000
pounds, and the total weight of the loaded
Figure 9.16 The pendulum arm can be adjusted
trailer is 7,500 pounds, the ratio is 0.75:1 or
for smoother breaking response.
75 percent of the total axle capacity.
■ Using the chart, choose a gain setting that
represents this ratio. This will be the starting
point from where you may make additional more delayed braking action, move the arm 2 to 3
adjustments. degrees toward the front of the tow vehicle.
■ To fine-tune the gain setting, perform several The pendulum is a deceleration sensor and can
stops under normal brake-pedal pressure at momentarily energize the brakes under bumpy or
moderate speed (25 MPH or less) on a flat, adverse road conditions. The controller can be de-
hard, dry surface. A firm braking action sensitized by adjusting the pendulum leveling arm
should result. If more or less trailer braking is to a slightly delayed position.
desired, increase or decrease the gain by a
value of 1.
Adjusting the Jordan Controller
The normal operating mode is with the pendulum
in the level position. But once the gain setting has been Adjustment of the Jordan Mark IV controller is done
adjusted, the pendulum leveling arm is used to ad- by beginning with a rough initial setting of the slide
just the smoothness of the brake response (Figure 9.16). adjustment, 1/4 of the way toward minimum, down
Moving the pendulum arm away from level will acti- from the maximum setting. Adjusted to this point,
vate a delayed or aggressive mode of trailer braking. make a few slow-speed stops on dry, level pavement.
To adjust for more aggressive action, move the Slide the control toward maximum to increase brak-
pendulum leveling arm approximately 2 to 3 degrees ing firmness. Slide the control toward minimum for
back toward the rear of the tow vehicle. To adjust for lighter braking. Final adjustment is a matter of per-
sonal preference, but it should always be less than
Table 9.2 Gain Setting Chart
full lock-up.
Gain Load-Weight-to- LED Display
The Quantum is adjusted by first hitching up the
Setting Axle-Capacity Ratio 1 2 3 4
trailer and then pressing and holding the tow-vehi-
1 20-30% (Light) On Off Off Off
cle brake pedal down for approximately ten seconds
2 30-40% (Light) Off On Off Off
or until the digital readout on the controller stabi-
3 40-50% (Medium) Off Off On Off
lizes. Continuing to hold the brake pedal down, reach
4 50-60% (Medium) Off Off Off On
around to the rear of the controller and move the
5 60-70% (Medium) On Off Off On
output adjustment to the left (minimum) and note
6 70-80% (Heavy) Off On Off On
the digital readout. Then slide the adjustment to the
7 80-90% (Heavy) Off Off On On right and note the readout. If the unit is working
8 90-100% (Heavy) On Off On On properly, the readings should be as follows:
9.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ Two-brake system: minimum 2 to 3 amps;
maximum 5 to 6 amps
■ Four-brake system: minimum 3 to 4 amps;
maximum 9 to 13 amps
■ Six-brake system: minimum 4 to 5 amps;
maximum 14 to 16 amps
■ Eight-brake system: minimum 5 to 6 amps;
maximum 21 to 23 amps
These readings are typical and may vary depend-
ing on the length and gauge of the wire used to make
the connections and the battery condition.
This test checks for magnet operation. Failure to
reach maximum readings indicates a problem with
bad magnets, broken wires, or bad connections.
Repair the malfunction before continuing.
Set the output adjustment to the initial setting
prescribed for the number of brakes on the trailer.
Slide the adjustment to the left for less current and
to the right for more current.
■ Two-brake system: 3.5 amps
■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
J O R D A N
Situation
Green Continuity Light is not illuminated when trailer is
electrically connected
Green Continuity Light is illuminated without a trailer connected
No trailer brakes - indicator lamp does not glow
No trailer brakes - indicator lamp glows but does not dim
One or more brakes lock-up
Normal braking - indicator lamp does not glow
■ Four-brake system: 7.0 amps
■ Six-brake system: 10.0 amps
■ Eight-brake system: 13.0 amps
After making this initial adjustment, test the sys-
tem by making a few slow-speed stops on dry, level
pavement to determine if further adjustment is
needed. Slide the adjustment control to the left or
right until the trailer brakes are applied firmly but
do not lock up. This is the optimum adjustment.
Adjusting the Jordan 2100 Actuator
Place the sliding bar 1/4 of the way from Max (to-
ward minimum setting). While pulling the trailer,
try a few slow test stops at 20-25 mph. Moving the
slide bar toward Max will increase stopping power
and moving it towards Min will decrease stopping
power. The object is to have the trailer stop quickly
without locking the brakes.
The large red button on the front panel is the man-
2 1 0 0 A C T U A T O R
Probable Cause
The trailer is connected with an open circuit on brake line
Corrosion on trailer plug contacts
Loose 12 volt connection
Brake wire (blue) connected to wrong pin in tow vehicle
connector
Wire shorted in tow vehicle connector
Yellow wire not connected
Corrosion on trailer plug contacts
Loose 12 volt connections
Open circuit in brake line
Stop light switch is defective
Short circuit in brake wiring
Brake output control is set too low
Defective brake control
Trailer brake adjustment, brakes are too loose
Bad ground or corrosion on trailer plug contracts
Brake output control set too high
Lamp burned out

ual override that allows the driver to apply only the
trailer brakes, or to apply the maximum amount of
power to the trailer brakes without delay.
Adjusting the Draw-Tite Controller
There are two sets of adjustments that control the
Draw-Tite unit. One is the output control, and the
other is the sync control. The output control estab-
lishes the maximum amount of power available to
the trailer brakes. To increase the amount of avail-
able power to the trailer brakes, the output control
is rotated upward. Rotating the control downward
decreases the power to the trailer brakes. The output
control setting is shown on the digital display at the
front of the controller when the trailer is hitched and
the tow-vehicle brake pedal is pressed. Settings are
shown as 0 through 10, with 0 being the minimum
and 10 the maximum setting.
The sync control adjusts the aggressiveness of the
trailer brakes, and this control is located on the left
side of the control module, forward of the mounting
bracket. The trailer brakes become more aggressive
as the control is moved toward the front of the tow
vehicle. To view the sync-control setting on the digi-
tal display, press the brake pedal and move the con-
trol slightly. The display will change to the sync mode.
The setting is displayed as 10 through 90, with 10 be-
ing least aggressive and 90 being the most aggressive.
The sync control should be adjusted to meet driver
preference or changing road conditions.
Ausco Trail'r Brak'r
The Ausco Trail'r Brak'r (Figure 9.17) is a self-con-
tained electric-over-hydraulic braking system that is
intended for use on trailers weighing less than 26,000
pounds that are equipped with hydraulic brakes.
Two models are available. Model TB-800 has an
800-psi nominal output, while the TB-1200 has a
1200-psi nominal output. Before installing either
system, check to see that the brakes on the trailer are
capable of withstanding these pressures. NOTE: The TB-
1200 is not recommended for drum brakes.
The main body of the unit is installed on the trailer.
The module consists of a pump, motor and valve
manifold, all housed in a casing that also functions
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.21
as a brake fluid reservoir. The system provides pres-
sure to the hydraulic brakes when electric current is
applied. Trail'r Brak'r is controlled by an electronic
brake controller located inside the cab of the tow ve-
hicle.
Module Installation
■ Determine the mounting position for the
Trail'r Brak'r. It is suggested to install the unit on
the trailer A-frame, in a position that is protected
from damage. The only requirement is that the
unit must be mounted with the reservoir on top
and must be reasonably level.
■ Install the unit using four 1/4-20 screws in
the holes provided. Use these holes to mark for
drilling. Be careful not to drill through hydraulic
or electrical lines that may be hidden behind the
mounting position.
■ Attach the brake line (steel tube) for the
trailer brakes to the outlet port of the Trail'r Brak'r.
When designing the brake line routing, take care
to minimize the amount of rubber hose used.
Rubber hose swells more under pressure than steel
brake line and will slow the reaction time. The
Trail'r Brak'r has fittings for 3/16- to 1/4-inch
brake line. To use 1/4-inch line, you will need to
purchase a 3/16- to 1/4-inch 45-degree inverted
flair adapter.
■ Attach the black wire of the Trail'r Brak'r to
the vehicle ground.
■ Attach the red wire to the power output wire
from the brake controller (blue).
Filling and Bleeding
The reservoir must be filled and bled prior to oper-
ation. Failure to properly fill and bleed may result
in poor brake performance. Use only clean brake
fluid from a sealed container.
■ Chock the trailer wheels. If the trailer is
hitched to the tow vehicle, be sure the tow vehicle
is properly parked.
■ Remove the reservoir cover by pulling on the
tabs on one side of the cover. Remove the di-
aphragm from the reservoir, if it has not been re-
moved with the cover.
9.22 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ Fill the reservoir to the internal line with new
DOT-3 or DOT-4 brake fluid from a sealed con-
tainer.
■ Bleed brakes as follows. NOTE: On multiple axle
trailer, bleed the rear axle first.
■ Fit a length of plastic tubing over the brake's
bleeder screw. Place the other end in a clear con-
tainer partially full of brake fluid, ensuring that
the end of the tube is submerged.
■ Have an assistant apply power to the Trail'r
Brak'r by pressing and holding the brake pedal or
Figure 9.17 Ausco Trail'r Brak'r component installation and wiring.
using the controller override switch.
■ Open the bleeder screw on the brake one-half
turn. Keep the bleeder screw open for 15 seconds,
or until the bubbles stop coming out to the tube,
whichever occurs last.
■ Shut the bleeder screw, then refill the reser-
voir.
■ Repeat the process until no more bubbles exit
the tube. Failure to remove all the air from the
lines will result in poor brake performance.
■ Repeat the process for each brake on the

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
A U S C O
Problem
Two end LED's light up.
Two end LED's light up when trailer is connected.
All LED's flash when brakes applied.
No LED's light when brake pedal is applied.
Unit takes too long to come up to pressure.
Too much brake power.
Too abrupt braking.
Not enough brake.
Too abrupt braking using electric trailer brakes.
trailer. Work from the brake farthest from the
Trail'r Brak'r to the nearest.
■ After all the brakes have been bled, recheck
that all bleeder screws are tightly shut. Refill the
reservoir to the line. Replace the diaphragm and
the cover. Wash off any spilled brake fluid.
Testing The Breakaway Switch
After installing the Trail'r Brak'r, test the breakaway
switch. NOTE: Do not test the breakaway system with the trailer at-
tached to the tow vehicle. Doing so could cause damage to the electronic
brake controller. With the trailer detached from the tow
vehicle, perform the test by pulling on the breakaway
cable until it separates from the switch. The system
should pressurize the trailer brakes. If the brakes
do not operate, recheck all wiring, fluid connections,
and fluid levels.
Check the condition of the breakaway battery prior
to towing the trailer to ensure that the battery is fully
charged. Check the function of the breakaway by
pulling the pin on the breakaway switch and listen-
ing for the sound of the Trail'r Brak'r motor operat-
ing. If you do not hear the motor, check the battery
charge. If the breakaway battery is not properly
charged, the system will not function properly.
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.23
T R A I L ' R B R A K ' R
Solution
No trailer connected.
Open circuit in trailer wiring. Bad ground in trailer wiring.
Corrosion in trailer connector.
Short in brake line (blue wire)
No power to controller. Blown brake light switch fuse. Bad ground connec-
tion. Bad relay in power line.
Adjust Kickstart higher.
Adjust controller Ouput lower.
Adjust Kickstart lower.
Adjust Output higher. May also need to adjust Kickstart higher.
Adjust Kickstart completely off.
May also need to lower Output control.
Brake Controller Installation
■ Determine the mounting position of the
Trail'r Brak'r Control'r. It is suggested that the unit
should be installed to the dashboard of the tow
vehicle, within reach of the driver, and where it
will be protected from damage.
■ Use the bracket to mark the holes for drilling,
taking care to ensure that nothing behind the
mounting surface will be damaged by drilling. Use
a 0.125-inch drill for the pilot hole to install the
screws (provided).
■ Use 14 AWG wire (or larger) for the hookup.
■ Attach the white wire of the controller to the
vehicle ground directly at the battery negative ter-
minal.
■ Attach the black wire to the battery positive
post, using a 20-amp self-resetting circuit breaker.
Check to make sure all the output lights come on
for approximately two to three seconds. If this
does not happen, stop and do not connect any
more wires. If the LED's do not function as de-
scribed, the Trail'r Brak'r Control'r is improperly
wired. Failure to correct it at this point may cause
irreparable damage to the controller.
■ Attach the red wire to the cold side of the
brake light switch. The cold side is the side that
9.24 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
has no power when the brakes are not applied.
■ Attach the blue wire to the red wire of the
main module that is installed on the trailer A-
frame.
NOTE: The Ausco Trail'r Brak'r Control'r can also be used as the
brake controller for electric trailer brake systems. If that is the applica-
tion, follow all the preceding installation instructions, but attach the
blue wire to the electric trailer brakes at this point.
■ Check to see that all the wiring is correct.
■ With no trailer connected, turn the ignition
on. The two LED's at opposite ends of the display
should be lit. If this does not occur, stop immedi-
ately and re-check the wiring.
■ Connect the trailer to the tow vehicle. The
two LED's should go out.
■ Turn the Kickstart and Output control knobs
approximately 1/2 way up. Step on the brake
pedal. All LED's should light for one to two sec-
onds and then the top few should go out.
Operation
The Trail'r Brak'r Control'r has three adjustments
or controls: Override, Output, and Kickstart.
The Override is a spring-returned lever used if you
should need to apply the trailer brakes without ap-
plying the tow vehicle brakes. This lever is located
on the bottom right-front comer of the controller. It
is operated by moving the lever to the left. The far-
ther it is moved, the more braking will be applied.
The Output adjustment controls the amount of
braking power. A heavy load requires a higher ad-
justment of the Output control.
The Kickstart adjustment is used to shorten the
delay between pressing on the brake pedal and ap-
plication of hydraulic trailer brakes. Kickstart must
be turned completely off if this controller is used in
conjunction with electric trailer brakes. WARNING: Fail-
ure to set the Trail'r Brak'r Control'r Kickstart adjustment to zero when
using electric brakes may result in sudden brake application.
Maintenance
While the brake controller is maintenance free, it
may be cleaned with a mild soap and a soft cloth.
Do not use harsh detergents, solvents or abrasives to
clean the unit. The main module, on the other hand,
does require routine maintenance. Before each use
of the trailer, perform the following maintenance:
■ Check brake fluid level in the reservoir.
■ Check the brake system for loose, damage, or
broken parts.
■ Check all hydraulic and electrical connec-
tions to ensure they are secure.
■ Test the Trail'r Brak'r.
Once each year, change the system's brake fluid.
Kodiak Disk Brakes for Trailers
Kodiak disc brakes are a direct replacement for
electric trailer brakes, providing braking for loads up
to 26,000 pounds. These brakes are operated hy-
draulically which may require special equipment
to operate them.
Installation requires the removal of all the elec-
tric brake components (drums, backing plates and
wires), leaving only the spindle. The Kodiak kit comes
with a new hub, caliper and mounting bracket, ro-
tors and all the small parts needed for the installa-
tion (Figure 9.18).
There are two items that must be determined prior
to ordering the kit. First is the current hub type be-
ing used on the trailer. If the old hub is part of the
brake drum, you will need to buy an idler hub for
axle weights heavier than 6,000 pounds. With axles
weights 6,000 pounds or lighter, you can get an in-
tegrated hub from Kodiak.
Most manufactures use standard hubs, but the
number of lugs and idler hub size must match the
disk brakes when they are installed. Also, it's im-
portant to know whether the lug is recessed or flat
mounted so that the proper length wheel lugs can
be installed.
Preventive maintenance:
■ Visually check brakes before each trip.
■ After each hook-up, always check trailer brake
operation before attaining normal driving speed.
■ Follow manufacturer's recommendations
with regard to use of and replacement of brake
fluid.
■ Wash brake assembly immediately after expo-
sure to salt water or other corrosives.

Figure 9.18 Kodiak Disk Brake system (exploded view).
■ TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem
Squeaking, Clatter or Chucking
One Brake Overheating, Side Pull,
Poor Brake Performance
All Brakes Overheating, Poor Brake
Performance
K O D I A K D I S K
Possible Cause
Loose hitch ball
Loose hitch
Hitch ball worn or too small
Broken rotor
Worn out caliper pads
Leaky caliper
Leaky wheel bearing grease seal
Caliper/Mounting bracket bolts may be loose
Spindle nut may be loose
Lug nuts may be loose
Caliper piston not retracting
A bent guide bolt/caliper mounting bracket
Side pull
Foreign material in brake line
Low hydraulic fluid level
Broken or pinched brake lines
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.25
■
B R A K E S
Correction
Inspect hitch ball and tighten or replace as
required.
Inspect hitch and tighten or repair as required.
Replace with properly sized and rated ball.
Replace rotor and check calipers.
Replace caliper pads and check rotors.
Replace or rebuild calipers.
Clean other hardware.
Replace grease seal and wheel bearings as
required. Pack wheel bearings. Re-bleed as
necessary. Clean other hardware.
Tighten to manufacturers specifications and/or
replace as necessary.
Tighten to manufacturer's specifications and/or
replace as necessary.
Torque to manufacturers specifications and/or
replace as necessary.
Check for foreign material in brake line.
Check and rebuild or replace caliper. Bleed sys-
tem
Replace as required.
Check wheel bearings, caliper, rotor, and
replace as required.
Flush and clean thoroughly. Re-bleed system.
Fill with new brake fluid per manufacturer's
specifications. Bleed brakes to eliminate any
trapped air.
Replace or repair as required.
9.26 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ Periodically, during each trip, check hub and
assemblies to make sure that they are within nor-
mal operating ranges (130 to 170 degrees F). Do
not touch brake components; they may be much
hotter than the hub or wheel, especially after re-
cent braking.
■ THE VARIABLE RESISTOR ■
Braking may be excessively harsh and aggressive while
using an electric-hydraulic controller during slow
stops. The use of a variable resistor will normally cor-
Figure 9.19 A variable resistor in the line to the trail-
er brakes can correct overbraking at slow speeds.
Figure 9.20 The breakaway switch on a trailer can
be tested by pulling the pin and checking the current
with a multimeter or test light.
rect this problem (Figure 9.19). The variable resistor
permits adjustment of the amount of resistance in
the circuit feeding the trailer brakes. The unit is in-
stalled by wiring it directly into the wire leading from
the brake controller to the trailer brakes. Adjustment
is made by sliding a metal bridge toward one end or
the other of the device to achieve more or less re-
sistance.
■ INSPECTING ELECTRIC BRAKE COMPONENTS ■
When inspecting the electric-brake system, check the
breakaway switch, the magnet assemblies, and the
brake drums.
Testing the Breakaway Switch
To test the breakaway switch, follow these steps:
1. Connect a multimeter (amps) or test light be-
tween the breakaway switch and the trailer
brakes (Figure 9.20).
2. Pull out the breakaway pin. The multimeter
should register current. If no current flows:
a. Check for open wires.
b. Check the battery for full charge.
c. If the wires and batteries are okay, replace
the switch.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the controller, always electrically
disconnect the tow vehicle from the trailer prior to testing the break-
away switch.
Checking the Magnet Assembly
To check the magnet assembly:
■ Check the magnet for wear (Figure 9.21). Re-
place the magnet if the brass screws that hold
the friction element show wear.
■ Check the magnet-wearing surface for flatness
by using a straightedge (Figure 9.22). The
magnet should show normal wear (Figure
9.23). If the magnet wearing surface is worn
abnormally, replace the lever arm, the
armpins, and the magnet assembly.

Figure 9.21 Check the brake magnet for wear.
Testing the Magnet
To test the magnet, follow these steps:
1. Test for short circuits and open circuits by
connecting the magnet in series with an
ammeter and a battery (Figure 9.24).
2. Test for short circuits within the magnet coil
by connecting it in series with an ammeter
and a battery. When grounding the battery to
the magnet case, the magnet should show no
amperage value. If it does, a short circuit
exists and the magnet must be replaced:
Figure 9.22 The trailer-brake-magnet wearing
surface can be inspected for flatness by using a
straightedge.
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.27
Figure 9.23 The most common cause of uneven
magnet wear is a worn lever pivot allowing the
magnet to contact the armature at an angle.
a. Connect a test lead wire to a magnet
wire.
b. Take the other test lead wire to the posi-
tive post on the battery.
c. Connect the other magnet wire to the
negative post on the battery or ground
the magnet case directly to the negative
post and leave the remaining magnet
wire open.
Figure 9.24 Short circuits and open circuits can be
checked by connecting the magnet in series with an
ammeter and battery.
9.28 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

3. The average reading on the ammeter will vary Table 9.3 Magnet Amperes Chart
with the magnet size (Table 9.3). Brake Amps/ Two Four Six
Size Magnet Brakes Brakes Brakes
7x9/4 2.5 5.0 10.0 15.0
10x9/4 3.0 6.0 12.0 18.0
Testing the Brake Drum and 10x2-1/4 3.0 6.0 12.0 18.0
Mechanical Components 12x2 3.0 6.0 12.0 18.0
12-1/4x2-1/4 3.0 6.0 12.0 18.0
12-1/4 x 3-3/8 3.0 6.0 12.0 18.0
Inspect the mechanical components of the electric
brake system (Figure 9.25). Brake shoes, drum, the
bearings, grease seals, and the brake hardware all re- than .020 inch oversized, or the drum
quire periodic service. has worn out of round by more than
.015 inch, the drum surface should be
1. Inspect brake drums and armature surfaces turned. If scoring or other wear is
for grooves. greater than .090 inch, the drum should
be replaced. When turning the drum,
a. Replace the brake-drum armature if it the maximum diameter must not
indicates excessive scoring due to con- exceed the following:
tamination from mud, small stones, ■ 7-inch drum—7.090 inches
and sand. Armatures are either part of ■ 10-inch drum—-10.090 inches
the drum or will separate easily from ■ 12-inch drum—12.090 inches
the drum. ■ 12-1/4 inch drum—12.340 inches
NOTE: A one-piece drum/armature can be
CAUTION: If a drum is machined beyond .045
machined on the lathe .030 inch. The magnets must inch of its original diameter, use .030-inch oversize
be replaced whenever the armature is refaced. It is
brake shoes. This maintains the correct shoe arc to
not recommended to machine the two-piece
the brake drum.
armature.
2. Replace linings if they are worn to within
b. Inspect the brake-drum surface for 1/32 inch of the rivet heads, or if they are con-
heavy scoring. If the drum is worn more taminated with grease or oil.

Figure 9.25 Mechanical parts of the electric trailer brake


Inspecting the Wheel Bearings
Wash the bearings with a suitable solvent, making
sure that all the grease and oil is removed from the
bearing cone and rollers. Dry the bearings with a lint-
free cloth and inspect each roller and cage closely. If
any pitting, spalling, or corrosion is present, then the
bearing must be replaced (Figure 9.26). It is very im-
portant that bearings be replaced in sets of a cone
and a cup.
CAUTION: Be sure fo wear safety glasses when removing or installing
force-fitted parts; the possibility of metal chipping is very real and may
result in eye damage.
The bearings can be reused if they are in good con-
dition. Proper lubrication is essential to the relia-
bility and longevity of the bearings. Bearings should
be repacked every 12 months or 12,000 miles.
Install the wheel seal into the backside of the
drum. Using a torque wrench, tighten the spindle
nut to the factory torque specification (see Rein-
stalling the Drum Assembly on page 9.37).
Figure 9.26 Wheel bearings from the trailer should
be thoroughly cleaned and dried before repacking
with new grease.
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.29
■ ADJUSTING THE BRAKES ■
For efficient braking, an electric-brake assembly must
have the correct brake shoe-to-drum clearance. Brake
adjustment must be performed regularly because it
is not automatic.
1. Using a brake-adjusting tool or a large flat-
blade screwdriver, remove the plug in the
backing plate (Figure 9.27).
NOTE: Some hubs have an adjuster slot in the front of the
hub, which makes the adjustment much easier and safer. If so,
there is no need to get under the trailer.
2. Insert the brake tool or screwdriver and
locate the adjuster starwheel. This is a
toothed wheel (Figure 9.28).
3. While spinning the wheel and the tire, turn
the adjuster starwheel up or down to adjust
the brakes. Generally, moving the brake tool
up loosens the brakes and moving the tool
down tightens them. Continue adjusting un-
til a heavy drag results.
4. Back off the adjuster until there is no drag
(enough to allow the tire/wheel to spin freely).
■ INSTALLING THE WHEELS ■
To properly install the wheels:
Figure 9.27 Trailer brakes must be adjusted after
service by turning the starwheel that is accessed
through the backing plate.
9.30 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 9.28 A brake-adjuster tool works best for

turning the starwheel between the linings, but in a
pinch a screwdriver will work.

1. Clean the threads of the wheel lugs and apply

a light coat of anti-seize compound (avail-
able at most auto-supply stores).
2. Make sure the wheels are centered precisely
on the axle flange.
3. Using the proper tightening pattern (Figure
9.29), tighten the lug nuts/bolts to the proper
torque reading (Table 9.4).
4. Wheel nuts/bolts need to be torqued before
first-road use and after each wheel removal.
Check and retorque after the first ten miles,
twenty-five miles, and at fifty miles to insure
the wheel nuts/bolts are fully seated. Check
them monthly thereafter.
■ SERVICING TRAILER BRAKES ■
Figure 9.29 Tightening pattern must be followed to
insure proper seating of the nuts and the wheels.
so begin by jacking up the trailer and supporting it
on jack stands. It is best to dismantle the trailer brakes
one side at a time for two reasons: First, it is safer
to have one side supported by wheels while the op-
posite side is up on jack stands; and second, if you
become confused about the brake reassembly, you
still have at least one completely intact assembly to
refer to.

Servicing trailer brakes is within the capability of

most do-it-yourself RVers. The job is messy but sim- Removing the Bearings
ple, if all the proper tools and replacement parts
are on hand. Begin trailer-brake service by removing bearings as
Brake service requires removal of the trailer wheel, follows:

1. Remove the tire and wheel.

Table 9.4 Wheel Torque Requirements
2. Remove the bearing dust cap (Figure 9.30).
Torque Sequence 3. Straighten and remove the cotter pin.
Wheel Size 1 st Stage 2nd Stage 3rd Stage
4. Remove the castle nut. It should be only
12" 20-25 35-40 50-75 finger tight (Figure 9.31).
13" 20-25 35-40 50-75

14" 20-25 50-60 90-120

5. Remove the washer and lay it aside on a clean
15" 20-25 50-60 90-120 newspaper or rag
16" 20-25 50-60 90-120
6. Pull the brake drum toward you about an
inch, wiggling it side to side slightly. This

tends to force the outer wheel bearing toward
the end of the spindle where it can be
grasped easily.
7. Pull the outer wheel bearing off the spindle
and lay it aside on a clean newspaper or rag
(Figure 9.32).
8. Remove the brake-drum assembly by pulling
it straight out, and place it open side up on a
clean newspaper or rag. You may have to back
off the adjuster, if the drum will not pull off.
Figure 9.30 The bearing dust cap is removed to
access the castle nut and cotter pin.
Figure 9.31 After removing the cotter pin, the
castle nut should be only finger tight.
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.31
Figure 9.32 Outer wheel bearing assembly
9. Remove the inner wheel bearing by running a
wooden shaft through the hub interior until
it contacts the grease seal. A gentle tap usu-
ally pops the seal out, and the bearing is then
free to be removed (Figure 9.33).
NOTE: Always wear a protective surgical-type breathing
mask when working on brake drums, and use water to clean
the dust from the drums, linings, and hardware. Never use
compressed air to blow dust from the drums.
Cleaning the Bearings
In preparation for reinstallation in the hub, all the
old grease should be removed from the bearings be-
fore repacking with new grease.
CAUTION: For cleaning the bearings and all associated compo-
nents, use parts-cleaning solvent rather than gasoline, which leaves a
dangerous residue.
Clean the bearings thoroughly, until all the old
grease is removed. Clean the bearing dust cap, the
castle nut, and the bearing washer. When these com-
ponents are completely free of old grease, set them
aside to dry. Do not use compressed air to dry bear-
ings because the stream of air can spin them at a dan-
gerous speed. Tap the bearings on a cloth in the palm
of your hand to remove excess solvent, then dry all
the rollers with the cloth. Remove all the solvent be-
fore repacking with new grease.
While waiting for the bearings to dry, clean the
spindle and the hub interior of all old grease (Fig-
9.32 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 9.33 A gentle tap is all that is needed to
pop out the seal so the bearing can be removed.
ure 9.34). This is a messy job, so keep a roll of pa-
per towels handy.
Inspecting the Bearings
Inspect the bearings and races with a critical eye.
There is no sense reinstalling worn or damaged bear-
ings—this would only invite failure.
Signs of pitting, scoring, heat damage (indicated
by discoloration), or uneven wear patterns are good
reasons to discard a bearing and race set. If any of
the rollers are imperfectly round, replace the bear-
ing. If there are any signs of cracking, discoloration,
or shiny spots (excessive wear) on the race, replace
it. Always replace bearings and races as a set.
If you plan to reuse the old bearings, be sure to
keep track of which race they mate with, so you don't
mismatch the bearings and races upon reinstallation.
If new bearings and races are to be used, have a pro-
fessional shop press the races into place.
Inspecting the Brake Drum
Before reinstalling bearings in the hub, inspect the
brake drum. If it has been badly worn or damaged,
it may need to be replaced or turned to renew the face
of the drum. Damage is evident when the drums show
Figure 9.34 The spindle and hub interior must be
cleaned of all old grease before reassembly.
cracks, scoring, excessive wear, or are out of round.
If oil or grease contamination has fouled the
drums, use brake-parts solvent to clean the face of
the drums. If heavy scoring is evident, the cause may
be excessively worn brake linings, loose lining riv-
ets, or particles embedded in the linings.
Out-of-round drums have the appearances of un-
even wear—as if the lining had not been contacting
the face of the drum at some point. Drums in this
condition need to be turned (bored) by a profes-
sional brake shop or replaced. If the drums have been
turned before, or are so badly damaged that turning
them will remove too much material, the new lin-
ings may not contact the drum when the brakes are
applied. In such cases, new drums should be installed.
Inside-drum measurements taken by the brake shop
will determine if new drums are necessary or if the
old ones can be reused. Linings should be arced at
the same time the drums are turned, but many shops
no longer do this because of the dangers related to
brake-lining dust.
The drum inspection should include the drum-
assembly bolts. If the bolts are loose, they may shear
under hard-braking conditions. Replace any bolts
that are suspect.
Proceed with the next section only if the original
drums are deemed usable.

Figure 9.35 Wheel bearings can be packed by
hand if a wheel-bearing packer is not available,
using a good grade of high-temperature grease.
Packing the Bearings
Use high-temperature wheel-bearing grease to repack
the bearings. Unless you have a wheel-bearing pack-
ing device, you will have to do the job by hand (Fig-
ure 9.35).
Place a blob of grease about the size of a golf ball
in the palm of one hand. Grip the bearing with the
other hand. Force the side of the bearing (where there
is an opening between the roller cages) down onto
the grease. Do this repeatedly until the grease starts
to ooze from the top of the bearing and out the bear-
ing face between the rollers. Continue forcing grease
through the bearing until it is apparent that grease
has filled every cavity between the rollers. Then ro-
tate the bearing to a new spot and begin the process
again, forcing grease through the bearing. Continue
with this process until you have rotated the bearing
all the way around. Lightly coat the races with grease
and spread some grease inside the hub.
Reinstalling the Inner Bearing
Follow these steps to reinstall the inner bearing:
1. Lay the drum with the open (inner) side
facing up.
2. Position the inner bearing on its race.
3. Place the new grease seal (never reuse an old
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.33
Figure 9.36 New grease wheels can be pressed
into the wheel by using a straight block of wood and
a hammer.
seal) in position at the spindle opening on
the inner side of the hub (Figure 9.36).
4. Place a block of hardwood over the seal and
gently tap it with a hammer to drive the seal
into the hub. Make sure the seal fits in the
hub evenly all around. Drive the seal in until
it is beyond flush and below the level of the
surrounding hub.
Inspecting the Brake Linings
Before proceeding, clean your hands of all grease.
Grease or oil contamination will destroy the integrity
of brake linings.
If the linings are worn down to within 1/32 inch of
the shoe, they should be replaced (Figure 9.37). If
the linings have worn unevenly, look for the cause
rather than simply replacing the linings. The uneven
wear may be caused by a broken return spring,
out-of-round drums, grease contamination, or a shoe
that has slipped out of position due to failure of a
hold-down spring.
If the linings are due for replacement, replace the
linings for all the brakes on that axle at the same time.
NOTE: Never replace the linings on only one side of the axle,
because this will cause erratic braking.
9.34 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 9.37 Brake linings must be replaced if they
have less than 1/32 inch of material showing over the
rivets.
Removing the Brake Shoes
To remove the brake shoes follow these steps:
1. Remove the shoe-return springs (Figure 9.38)
using a brake tool or locking pliers. Be careful,
because the springs are under tension.
2. Remove the shoe hold-down springs (Figure
9.39).
a. Reach behind the backing plate and
hold the head of the hold-down pin to
prevent it from turning.
b. Grasp the hold-down spring retainer
(cup) with pliers. Push the retainer in
against spring pressure and turn 90
degrees in either direction to align the
end of the pin with the slot in the re-
tainer. The retainer and spring will now
separate from the pin.
3. Grasp the brake shoes at the top and pull
them away from each other. Remove them
along with the adjuster mechanism and
spring (Figures 9.40 and 9.41).
4. Remove the adjuster mechanism and adjuster
spring from the shoes. If these parts are to be
reused, clean them thoroughly. Give the ad-
juster a light coating of lubricant as recom-
mended by the manufacturer.
Figure 9.38 Brake return springs can be removed
with a brake tool or a screwdriver.
Inspecting the Magnets
The magnet can be inspected by placing a straight-
edge across the magnet's rubbing surface (Figures
9.22 and 9.23 on pages 9.27). If the rubbing surface
is flat all the way across, it is contacting the armature
correctly.
If the friction element isn't worn too thin, and if
there is not excessive scoring from contaminants, the
unit need not be replaced.
If the magnet is wearing unevenly, find the cause
and correct it before installing a new magnet. The
most common cause for uneven magnet wear occurs
when a worn lever pivots, allowing the magnet to
contact the armature at an angle. If this is the case,
replace the entire lever assembly.
When replacing a magnet on one brake, it is nec-
essary to balance the brake system by replacing the
counterpart magnet on the opposite end of the axle.
CAUTION: Replacement of magnets on only one side of the trailer
will result in erratic braking.
Installing New Magnets
The magnet lead wires usually run through the back-
 CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.35

Figure 9.39 Removing the brake-shoe hold-down springs

Figure 9.40 The brake-adjuster mechanism and

spring must be removed with the linings.

Figure 9.41 The brake-adjuster mechanism and

spring should be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated
before reinstalling.
9.36 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

ing plate to a position behind the brake assembly heat-shrink material or silicone to protect and
(Figure 9.42). Reach behind the backing plate to de- strengthen the connection (see page 1.10).
tach the wires, or cut them, whichever applies.
If a grommet protects the wires as they pass through
the backing plate, remove it with pliers before pulling Installing Brake Shoes
the wires through. A new grommet will be needed in
the same location on the wires of the new magnet, With the magnets installed, brake shoes can be re-
prior to magnet installation (Figure 9.43). installed. When installing new shoes, the primary
The magnet can be replaced with the lever arm in
place or removed (Figure 9.44). To remove the lever
arm, first carefully remove the clip that holds it in po-
sition. Slide the lever off the stud. On Kelsey brakes,
it is necessary to first remove the small spring clip
from the positioning stud. On other systems, there is
a detent ring inside the magnet assembly. This will
slip off easily if the magnet is pulled toward you us-
ing a gentle rocking motion. Pay close attention to
how the follow-up spring is positioned behind the
magnet. The spring pushes against the magnet to
maintain proper contact with the armature. This spring
will frequently be wider at one end than the other.
It must be reinstalled in the proper position. Nor-
mally, the wider end is toward the installer.
Install the new magnet, using the new clip in-
cluded in the magnet kit. If necessary, squeeze the
clip with pliers until it fits. Reinstall the lever mech-
anism if it was removed. Route the magnet lead wires Figure 9.43 New grommets should be used when
and make the connections. If the wires plug into a replacing the wires from the magnet through the
socket, clean the socket prior to installation. If the backing plate.
wires were cut, make the connection either by sol-
dering or by using quality crimp connectors. Use

Figure 9.42 Wires to the magnet that are routed Figure 9.44 Brake magnets are attached to the
through the backing plate must be disconnected or lever arm, which can be removed to facilitate mag-
cut before removal. net removal.

shoe must be installed toward the front of the trailer
and the secondary shoe to the rear.
1. Install an adjuster and adjuster spring on
each set of new shoes. Make sure the adjuster
nut is on the left side.
2. Position shoes and adjuster mechanism on
the backing plate.
3. Install the shoe, the hold-down spring, and
the retainer.
4. Install shoe-return springs.
Inspecting the Armature
Armatures (the inside surface of the drum to which
the magnet is attracted) generally last the life of the
trailer, but they are subject to rusting and scoring.
Light scoring is normal and is caused by con-
taminants getting between the magnet and the ar-
mature. To remove mild rust or scoring, use a solvent
and steel wool. If the scoring is substantial, the ar-
mature may need to be replaced.
Replacing the Armature
When replacing the armature, it is not necessary to also
replace the counterpart armature on the other end of
the axle. However, it is wise to inspect all the armatures
and their magnets, because they probably have all been
exposed to the same damaging conditions.
If the assembly is unicast, the entire unit must be
replaced. If the assembly was riveted, drill out the
rivets and replace them with nuts and bolts to install
the replacement unit.
Reinstalling the Drum Assembly
Follow these steps in reinstalling the brake-drum
CHAPTER 9 Trailer Brakes 9.37
assembly:
1. Carefully slide the drum over the spindle,
taking care to avoid damage to the new
grease seal as it slides over its mating ledge
on the inner end of the spindle. Push the
drum as far as it will go. The drum should
entirely cover the shoes.
2. Install the outer wheel bearing over the spin-
dle and press it up into the hub until it meets
the bearing race.
3. Slide the bearing washer onto the spindle so
that it fits snugly against the bearing.
4. Install the castle nut and finger-tighten it as
far as possible.
5. While slowly rotating the drum counterclock-
wise, tighten the castle nut (to preload the
bearings) with a wrench until it is snug, or
torque to 50 foot-pounds. Stop spinning the
drum. Loosen the nut. Hand-tighten the nut
and line up the holes in the spindle with the
castle nut; install and bend a new cotter pin.
6. Spin the drum to see that it spins freely; if it
doesn't, the shoes may be too tight against
the drum. If so, back them off with the brake-
adjusting tool until the drum can spin freely.
Final Reassembly
Follow these steps in the final reassembly:
1. Reinstall the bearing dust cap, taking care not
to crush it against the nut when tapping the
cap down tightly. If the cap is crushed against
the nut, a hole will wear in the cap and allow
dirt and water to enter.
2. Reinstall the wheels, and torque the lugs ac-
cording to manufacturer's specifications. Re-
torque the lugs as specified in Table 9.4, on
page 9.30.
9.38 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
 ■ CHAPTER 10 ■
DINGHY TOWING
Towing a vehicle behind a motorhome,
commonly referred to as "dinghy towing" is very
popular among RVers. The convenience and the free-
dom of economical transportation when you arrive
at your destination are the main reasons so many
motorhome owners have opted to tow.
The equipment used to tow small cars or trucks
behind motorhomes typically does not need exten-
sive maintenance. A bit of grease on the hitch ball
usually will suffice when a tow bar is used. Wheel
bearings should be repacked every year on a tow dolly
or trailer, and if the dolly or trailer has brakes, they
should be inspected annually. The most important
aspects for safe towing are the necessary equipment,
installed and used properly, along with vigilance.
A prerequisite for safe towing is use of a proper
combination of vehicles. Although a relatively small
motorhome may be able to tow a heavy car, the ques-
tions are, how far? how well? and how safely? Weight
limits prescribed by manufacturers of motorhome
chassis are intended to insure adequate performance
and braking for the motorhome. Applying these lim-
its to one's personal situation requires knowledge of
the motorhome's curb weight and the chassis man-
ufacturer's gross combination weight rating (GCWR).
The GCWR is the maximum total weight of the mo-
torhome, towed vehicle, and all their contents (Table
10.1). With knowledge of the motorhome's weight
loaded for travel (including passengers), it's possi-
ble to calculate the weight allowance for a towed car
or truck.
These weight factors encourage motorhome own-
ers to choose compact or subcompact vehicles weigh-
ing in the neighborhood of 3,000 pounds. Even when
the gross vehicle weight is within the manufacturer's
limits, the ability to keep speed in check on steep
downhill grades may require more braking than the
motorhome can produce from the combined effect
of downshifting the transmission (engine-compres-
sion braking) and the application of service brakes.
Additional discussion of braking will be included
later in this chapter. It's also important to consider
special requirements of the individual motorhome-
chassis manufacturers. Although Ford and Chevy
chassis have decent GCWRs, towing may be restricted
to only 1,500 pounds if brakes on the towed vehicle
or trailer cannot be activated in concert with the mo-
torhome's braking.
A variety of compact cars, sport-utility vehicles,
and trucks, including those with front-wheel drive
and power steering, are approved by their manu-
facturers for towing over long distances without speed
restrictions (Figure 10.1). In order to determine
whether a vehicle is suitable to be towed behind a
motorhome, check the owner's manuals of the mod-
els you're considering; this is the only way to be sure
the vehicle can be towed without drive-train modi-
fications. The owner's manual will have specific writ-
ten instructions on how to tow behind a motorhome,
if it is approved. Do not accept a verbal "sure, it's okay
to tow" from a dealership salesperson.
The instructions will tell you how to shift the trans-
mission to the correct gear, how fast, and how far
you may travel. Some vehicles have very simple in-
structions like "shift transmission to neutral" while
others have somewhat complicated shift procedures
that must be followed in order to prevent drive-line
damage. Manufacturers may specify distance limits
before stopping; a common requirement is to stop
every 200 miles and run the dinghy vehicle's en-
gine for a few minutes to circulate oil throughout
the transmission.
10.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Table 10.1 ■ TOWING EQUIPMENT ■

Gross Combination Weight Ratings
Model Weight (lbs.) Beyond maintaining a realistic weight situation, the
Chevrolet choice of towing equipment is important for safety
P Cutaway 19,000 and convenience. Vehicles can be successfully and
PI 2 Class A 26,000
P32 Gas/Diesel 17,000-21,000 legally towed three ways: on their own four wheels
utilizing a tow bar, with two wheels on a dolly
Country Coach
Dynomax 39,200-54,500 (Figure 10.2), or with the entire vehicle on a trailer
(Figure 10.3).
Ford
F-Super Duty Class A 26,000 Many owners find that the extra weight of a dolly
E-350/E-450 Class C 20,000 (310 to 600 pounds, depending on brand and model)
Freightliner or trailer (900 to 2,000 pounds) will not add enough
XC Series 26,660-36,000
weight to exceed the motorhome chassis manufac-
XCS Series 26,000
Powerliner 40,000-41,880 turer's GCWR. Proper choice and installation of
equipment is especially important when using tow
GM
GM-600 Cutaway 13,000-17,000 bars since they are mechanically attached to the towed
SMC Magnum
vehicle.
Blue Streak 33,500
Blue Max 31,500-35,000
Blue Diamond 42,600-52,000
Hitch Platforms and Ball Position
Roadmaster by Monaco
Windsor 42,800-45,800
Dynasty 43,000-53,000 Whether the towing method is a tow bar, dolly, or
Executive 43,000-53,000 trailer, height of the hitch ball is important for proper
Diplomat 40,000
handling and safety. Ball height will vary with the
Signature 57,600
Imperial 43,000 road clearance of the vehicle or trailer, which means
Spartan
that there is no precise ideal ball height, but the av-
Summit GT, GTI 29,000 erage will be around 18 inches. The proper ball height
K2 63,200 is one that places the tow bar or coupler of the dolly
Mountain Master GT 41,000
Summit ES 26,000 or trailer in a level attitude (Figure 10.4). This is very
Workhorse important!
W-20 26,000
When the ball position is too high or too low, cou-
W-22 26,000
P32 19,000-21,000 pler damage is possible if the motorhome is driven
in an unusually high or low position relative to the
towed vehicle. This high or low position can also
cause problems during braking and turning. It's pos-
sible that the coupler can be "forced" off the ball dur-
ing certain conditions. Obviously, this can be a
Most vehicles that are not approved by their man- dangerous situation.
ufacturers for towing on all four wheels can still be A proper hitch setup for a motorhome includes a
towed using aftermarket accessories such as a cable- receiver assembly (Figure 10.5) that does not reduce
operated driveshaft-disconnect device (rear-wheel- the motorhome's rear-ground clearance any more than
drive vehicles only), a driveshaft-disconnect device, or necessary. The receiver should be positioned only
free-wheeling hubs (front-wheel drive), a dolly, or a slightly below the bumper and securely mounted to
trailer. Yet another option is an automatic-transmis- the frame of the motorhome. If the ball is positioned
sion-lubrication-pump system. Such systems, oper- at the level of the receiver, it may be too high or too
ated by 12-volt DC power from the motorhome, low, depending on the towed vehicle's height. Ball
circulate the towed vehicle's transmission fluid to pre- mounts of different configurations are used to create
vent bearing damage; they are available for many mod- proper ball height regardless of the position of the
els of conventional automatic-transmission cars. receiver (Figure 10.6).

Figure 10.1 A variety of compact cars, sport-utility vehicles, and trucks are approved for towing over long
distances without speed restrictions.
Figure 10.2 Towing with two wheels on a tow dolly
The hitch receiver attached to the motorhome must
be clearly rated for the total weight of the towed ve-
hicle and car/dolly or trailer you will be towing. (Rat-
ings are stamped on receivers and on ball mounts.)
Likewise, the towbar, the dolly, and the trailer cou-
plers must be clearly stamped with a load rating that
is sufficient for the weight being towed.
In addition to heeding the ratings, use a mechanic's
creeper to get under the motorhome and check the
integrity of the hitch attachment to the motorhome
frame. The hitch receiver should be bolted securely
CHAPTER 10 Dinghy Towing 10.3
with grade 5 or higher bolts and lock washers or lock-
ing nuts. Also, Loctite thread sealant should be used.
Check all nuts for tightness. Welding of the receiver
to the motorhome frame is not recommended.
When the motorhome chassis is not long enough
to extend fully to the bumper of the motorhome, the
coach builder usually adds chassis extensions. It is
these frame extensions, sometimes hastily welded
on the chassis, to which the hitch platform is at-
tached. Inspect the quality of the welds that attach
the extensions to the chassis.
Hitch balls are available in various quality levels
and types. The ball should be stamped with a load
rating equal to or in excess of the entire weight of
your towed vehicle plus the dolly or trailer, if appli-
cable. If the ball is not stamped with a rating, dis-
card it and buy one that is. The ball should have a
stem to allow the coupler full flexibility of move-
ment (Figure 10.7). Don't use a ball without a stem
because it restricts the range of movement of the cou-
pler on the ball and in some situations can force the
coupler off the ball. When tightening the nut that se-
cures it to the mount, make sure you use a lock washer
and that there are a number of threads protruding
past the end of the nut.
10.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 10.3 Towing with entire vehicle on a trailer

Figure 10.4 Proper ball height places the tow bar

or coupler of the dolly or trailer in a level attitude.

Figure 10.6 Ball mounts of different configurations

are used to create proper ball height regardless of
Figure 10.5 hitch-receiver assembly receiver position.
 CHAPTER 10 Dinghy Towing 10.5

Safety Chains

Federal law requires use of safety chains, regardless

Correct style ball of the towing method. Two chains should be used,
Choose ball with tall,
small diameter stem rated for the equipment involved, either class 2 or
for maximum coupler class 3 chain rated for 3,500 or 5,000 pounds, re-
arc movement.
spectively. Vinyl-coated steel cable can also be used
and is more convenient, with less weight and bulk
than chain (Figure 10.8).
The chains or cable should be attached to loops
provided in the tow-bar baseplate and in the hitch
platform. The chains or cables should be arranged in
an X-pattern under the coupler and ball with enough
slack so that they do not crimp the pivoting of the
coupler on the ball, but not with so much slack that
they drag in driveways. The purpose of crossing the
chains under the ball is so the tow bar or dolly/trailer
A-frame will be held off the ground if the coupler
Incorrect style ball
Thick, short, stem; should ever become disengaged from the ball.
reduces arc movement.

Tow Bars

Selecting and Installing the Tow Bar

Although rental yards offer tow bars that are designed

Figure 10.7 Coupler movement flexibility depends
on the type of ball. In all cases, a ball with a stem
should be used.
for temporary installation using chains and partially
relying on vehicle bumpers for support, we will limit
this discussion to tow bars that are bolted to the
frames of towed vehicles - the arrangement most
commonly used by motorhome owners.
A variety of tow bars is available, ranging from
universal, removable bars, to telescoping, self-align-

Figure 10.8 Vinyl-coated steel cable can be used Figure 10.9 Tow bar designed to be folded against
instead of chains. the front of the car
 10.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 10.10 Tow bar designed to be -folded
against the back of the motorhome
ing bars that offer additional flexibility while posi-
tioning the car or truck for hitching. All tow bars
should be identified with ratings for maximum ve-
hicle weight. Make sure your towed vehicle's curb
weight does not exceed the towbar rating.
Locking pins make many tow bars easily remov-
able; they're stowed in the vehicle or with the mo-
torhome until needed. Special tow bars are designed
so they can be either folded against the front of the
car (Figure 10.9) or the back of the motorhome (Fig-
ure 10.10) and locked while the vehicle is driven.
All tow bars utilize a triangular structure for rigid-
ity, whether the structure is steel tubing, flat steel bar,
or two lengths of chain that form triangular support
for a telescoping center bar. Rigidity is necessary be-
cause heavy stress can be exerted on a tow bar during
sharp turns or when traveling over uneven terrain.
Many small trucks and 4-wheel-drive vehicles pres-
ent no significant installation challenges for tow-bar
manufacturers. These vehicles typically have a body-
on-frame design, offering a system of steel girders in
the front of the vehicle for attachment of the tow-
bar baseplate (mounting platform). Ideally, the tow-
bar manufacturer supplies a baseplate designed
specifically for the vehicle so that few, if any, addi-
tional holes must be drilled in the vehicle's frame.
The baseplate usually is bolted into place, using grade
5 or higher bolts, lock washers, and Loctite thread
sealant as added insurance against loosening, or self-
locking nuts may be used.
The design of baseplates for cars with uni-body
construction presents a real challenge, because such
cars do not have conventional frames. The sheet-metal
body itself provides the vehicle's rigidity, and does
not allow stress loads of engine and suspension
mounts to concentrate too heavily on any single point.
Unfortunately, front ends of uni-body cars are not
designed with tow-bar attachments in mind, and the
tow-bar baseplate designer must take care to distrib-
ute stress loads properly. Failure to do so can result
in the baseplate-mounting bolts being pulled out of
the body, or, in extreme cases, major sheet-metal com-
ponents may be tom off the car.
In rare situations, where a prefabricated baseplate
is not offered by the tow-bar manufacturer, a local
welding or hitch shop may be used to build a custom-
designed baseplate. Master welders have an excellent
understanding of stress loads and can come up with
designs that offer acceptable durability. However,
mediocre welders have been known to create unsafe
designs. Unfortunately, the typical motorhome owner
may not be knowledgeable enough to choose a competent
welder. It's best to choose a tow bar that is supplied
with a prefabricated baseplate. If that's not practical
or possible, at least choose a welding shop that does
a large volume of tow-bar installations or hitches for
vehicles that tow large trailers.
Visually Checking the Tow Bar
While traveling, it's important that the motorhome
owner visually inspect the tow bar every time the ve-
hicle is stopped. The owner should perform a walk-
around that includes these visual inspection points:
■ Coupler secured on hitch ball
■ Pin (or bolt) securing coupler in locked
position
■ Hitch ball nut tight
■ Ignition key positioned so steering column
is unlocked
■ Transmission shift lever and/or transfer case

shift lever (4-wheel-drive only) still in the
position recommended by the manufacturer
for towing
■ Hand brake in off position
■ All bolts, nuts, and pins on tow bar and base-
plate tight
■ Wiring harness connected
■ Tires inflated properly
Although it includes several points, this inspec-
tion takes less than a minute. The walkaround in-
spection should also include the motorhome's tires
and a quick look underneath the chassis for signs of
oil or coolant leakage.
Failure to see obvious problems developing is a
primary cause of mishaps and costly damage that
could be prevented. Many motorhome owners who
regard themselves as mechanically inept do not take
the time to check their equipment, assuming they
probably won't recognize a problem. However, own-
ers who take the time to make mental notes of how
their rigs are set up may be able to notice when some-
thing changes. They may not know if the change pres-
ents a problem, but they can find out and possibly
prevent an accident, or being stranded in a remote
location.
It's also best to check tail- and stoplights and di-
rectional signals once a day, preferably in the morn-
ing before setting out for a day of driving.
Mechanically Checking the Tow Bar
A more detailed mechanical inspection should be
performed periodically, as common sense dictates,
or once every week while traveling. It should cover
these points:
■ Inspect all bolts underneath the vehicle or
otherwise out of sight that are used to attach
the tow-bar baseplate to the vehicle.
■ Inspect the vehicle body or frame for defor-
mation caused by stress on the bolts.
■ All such bolts should have several threads
protruding from the nuts when installed.
A lower number of threads protruding will
be a danger signal without having to
retorque each nut with a wrench.
CHAPTER 10 Dinghy Towing 10.7
Deformation of metal components indicates
improper design of the baseplate.
■ Inspect the bolts securing the hitch platform
to the motorhome.
■ Check the wiring for chafing or damage.
■ Inspect all tow-bar pivot points for any
excessive wear.
Tow-Bar Cleaning and Lubrication
Generally, tow bars require very little maintenance
other than cleaning and lubrication. Tow bars are
constantly subjected to road debris and particles of
grit and dirt. Clean the entire surface with WD-40 or
an equivalent product; use a generous amount and
make sure you cover all the wear points. Wipe clean
with a dry cloth and allow the wear points to drain,
then wipe again. Spray the entire surface with a sil-
icone lubricant, such as Roadmaster's LUBEmaster
100% Pure Silicone Spray. Silicone spray will pro-
vide a protective film without attracting dirt. Proper
cleaning and lubrication will help prevent corrosion.
The cleaning and lubrication procedure is especially
important for tow bars with sliding bars or tubes.
If your tow bar has stainless-steel arms that have
become scratched or corroded, clean the surface with
extra-fine steel wool (#0000) or a fine pad like the
one made by 3M under the Scotch Brite label.
Dollies and Trailers
Dollies (Figure 10.2, page 10.3) first became popu-
lar with motorhome owners when only a few man-
ufacturers of small, front-wheel-drive cars approved
of their cars being flat towed. Many motorhome own-
ers prefer dinghy vehicles with automatic transmis-
sions. There are a few manufacturers that approve of
towing with all four wheels on the ground with an
automatic transmission without drivetrain modifi-
cations as listed earlier in this chapter. A dolly im-
mobilizes the front (drive) wheels of the car,
eliminating any concern about transmission dam-
age while towing. Obviously, it does no good to tow
a rear-wheel-drive vehicle on a dolly.
Dollies are basically small trailers equipped with
ramps that haul one axle of a vehicle. While it is pos-
 10.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
sible to tow with the rear axle on the dolly, it is gen-
erally not recommended, since towing a vehicle back-
ward can present problems with tracking and stability.
One of the most significant advantages of a dolly
or a trailer is availability of brakes, either hydraulic
surge-type or electric, which can make a sizable dif-
ference in braking capacity while traveling moun-
tainous terrain.
Trailers are used by a small number of mo-
torhomers who want the ultimate protection of the
car against damage to the drivetrain as well as to the
paint while towing—motorhome owners who don't
mind the inconvenience of parking a trailer after ar-
rival at a destination. Trailers of various weight ca-
pacities can be purchased for towing a wide range of
car sizes and weights. The weight of a towed car on
a trailer is more apt to exceed the motorhome man-
ufacturer's GCWR, which is still an important factor,
even though braking may not be a limitation. Gaso-
line-powered motorhomes usually are not capable
of climbing steep mountain grades at acceptable
speeds when gross combined weight approaches or
exceeds the chassis manufacturer's GCWR.
Dolly Loading and Tie-down
Tie-down systems of several designs are used to hold
the vehicle rigidly in place on the dolly or trailer. The
owner should be sure that the tie-downs are not too
large or too small for the tires of the towed vehicle. A
tie-down that is too large will not hold the tire securely,
and one that is too small may not be properly fastened.
Be sure that nylon or other fabric tie-downs do not
come in contact with metal parts that can cut fabric.
Stop and recheck tie-downs after five to ten miles
of driving to make sure road vibration has not loos-
ened any components. Regular rechecking about
every 200 miles is advisable. Check the coupler lock-
ing mechanism as well.
Lubricating the Dolly
Some dollies have few lubrication points other than
the hitch ball, while others have pivoting platforms
that require oil. In all cases, repack wheel bearings
every 10,000 miles or every two years under nor-
mal conditions.
Dolly- and Trailer-Brake Maintenance
Electric or surge brakes should be adjusted approxi-
mately every 3,000 miles of travel or as needed to main-
tain brake effectiveness. Since electric brakes can be
actuated independently of the motorhome brakes (via
the brake controller), it's possible to independently
test dolly- or trailer-brake effectiveness periodically.
However, effectiveness of surge brakes may be difficult
to measure accurately because surge brakes function
only in concert with the motorhomes brakes. Thus it
is necessary to adjust brakes on a regular basis.
Dolly- and Trailer-Brake Adjustment
Dolly and trailer surge or electric brakes require man-
ual adjustment of brake-shoe position, the same pro-
cedure used on cars and light trucks before the advent
of automatic adjusters. To adjust brakes:
1. Hitch dolly or trailer to motorhome and set
motorhome emergency brake. Block wheels.
2. Jack up one wheel of the dolly or trailer so
the wheel can be spun freely.
3. Remove the rubber plug from the brake
adjustment slot at the bottom center of the
brake-backing plate.
4. Using a flashlight, locate the round, toothed
wheel (starwheel) just inside the slot. To
determine which direction to turn the star-
wheel for tightening, use a brake-adjusting
tool (available at auto-supply stores) to turn
the starwheel while spinning the tire. If after
turning the starwheel at least half a turn you
don't hear the brake shoes begin to drag on
the dram, reverse the direction.
5. Tighten the starwheel adjustment until the
brake shoes make it impossible to spin the
tire. Then loosen the adjustment until the
brake shoes drag very lightly.
6. Reinsert the plug in the adjustment slot and
adjust remaining brakes the same way.

Remove the jack and all the tools when
completed.
Checking Dolly and Trailer Hitching
Check the dolly or trailer for the following:
■ The coupler is secured on the hitch ball. Lift
the coupler to make sure. Install the coupler
locking pin or bolt. Check the coupler fit.
The coupler adjusting nut should be tight-
ened to make firm contact with the ball, but
it should not be so tight that latching the
coupler is difficult.
■ Safety chains are attached (arranged in an X
under the ball).
■ The license plate is in place.
■ The wheel platforms are tilted into position;
the pivot platform is in proper position (if
applicable).
■ The car/truck is properly positioned on the
wheel platforms.
■ The wheel tie-downs are tightened and locked.
■ The steering wheel is locked with wheels
straight ahead.
■ The wheel platforms are locked (if applicable).
■ The electrical plug is connected; lights func-
tion properly.
■ Check the wheel lug nuts. Torque to 90
pounds or to the rating provided by the dolly
or trailer manufacturer. Recheck once a week
while traveling.
■ Check the tire pressure; inflate to dolly or
trailer manufacturer's recommendation, if
different from the maximum inflation pres-
sure stamped on the tire sidewall.
Lights and Wiring
All states require towed vehicles to have legal brake-,
tail-, and turn-signal lights actuated by the mo-
torhome's lighting system. Dollies and trailers are
fitted with appropriate lights by their manufactur-
ers, and a 4- or 6-wire receptacle can be installed at
the rear of the motorhome to make the connection
to the towed vehicle.
CHAPTER 10 Dinghy Towing 10.9
The motorhome owner who tows a vehicle on its
own wheels with a tow bar must either use the towed
vehicle's taillights or add an independent tail/signal
light system. When using the towed vehicle's lights,
the common wiring method is to splice three wires
from the motorhome (tail, left turn, and right turn)
into the wiring harness leading to the towed vehi-
cle's rear lights. The splice point should be close to
the taillight/stoplight housings.
Electrical feedback problems can occur with late-
model vehicles. Current from the motorhome may
feed back through the towed vehicle's lighting sys-
tem into ignition components or other control sys-
tems. This can be prevented by using a taillight wiring
kit that includes diodes that are one-way electrical
valves (Figure 10.11). Most systems require the use
of two diodes. If the motorhome and towed vehicle
have separated brake and turn signals, then you'll
need to use four diodes (Figure 10.12). These elec-
trical devices are available from a variety of sources,
including most RV supply stores. Light bars require
a simple 4-wire hookup that is identical to the sys-
tem used for a dolly or trailer (Figure 10.13).
Motorhomes that use turn signals that are separate
from brake lights (Figure 10.14) require the use of a
solid-state converter (in addition to the diodes) to pro-
vide compatibility with the conventional lights of a
dolly or trailer in which the same light is used for brakes
and turn signals. Such converters are available from RV
supply stores. Conversely, many towed cars and trucks
now use turn-signal lights that are separate from the
brake-light system. If your motorhome does not have
a compatible turn-signal system, you will need an
adapter to split the motorhome's turn-signal circuit to
feed the towed car's dual-bulb system (Figure 10.15).
Pay close attention to the packaging for these convert-
ers and match the one needed by your system.
Problems with intermittent loss of power to tail-
lights and turn-signal lights involve poor ground con-
nections, improperly crimped electrical connectors,
and deterioration of wiring due to vibration when
solderless connectors are used. The connectors can
become loose and cause intermittent open circuits.
An independent lighting system that's permanently
installed in the towed vehicle can also be utilized.
Auto-bulb-type sockets with wire leads can be
mounted inside the taillight fixtures of the towed ve-
hicle, providing there's enough room. These sockets
10.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 10.11 Electrical feedback problems are eliminated by using diodes when wiring a dinghy vehicle.

Figure 10.12 Four diodes must be used when the motorhome and the dinghy vehicle have separate brake
and turn-signal bulbs.
 CHAPTER 10 Dinghy Towing 10.11

are available at most auto parts stores. Use 16/4 au-

tomotive wire and route it from the front of the towed
vehicle, along the chassis, and to the taillight fixtures.
Make sure one of the wires is used as a ground.

Plugs and Receptacles

Four-wire systems can use a molded flat connector

or the 4-pin round-type connector. If you are using
the molded flat connector, make sure that the hot
Figure 10.13 Light bars are simple to use but can wires (from the motorhome wiring) are spliced into
be unsightly if not removed from the vehicle. the side with the shielded terminals (Figure 10.16).

Figure 10.14 A solid-state converter is used when the motorhome has turn signals that are separate from the
brakelights.

Figure 10.15 A solid-state converter is used when the dinghy vehicle has separate turn signals and
brakelights.
10.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

cle can be mounted on the motorhome's bumper or

White a convenient location and the plug on the end of a
Brown cable that connects the towed-car's lighting system.
Yellow A more custom setup includes a receptacle mounted
Green on the motorhome and front of the towed vehicle,
using a coiled cable with plugs on each end (Figure
10.18). With this system, the wiring can be discon-
Figure 10.16 Half of a 4-pin molded connector
nected and stored when not towing. Six-wire con-
used on a motorhome
nectors must be used when the motorhome and
towed vehicle have separated brake and turn-signal
■ Universal Wiring Code, 4-Wire, flat and lights. Typically, five of the six positions will be used
round connectors: to connect the appropriate wiring (Figure 10.19).
■ White: Chassis ground
■ Brown: Taillights
■ Yellow: Left brake/turn Using the Brakes
■ Green: Right brake/turn
With extra weight tagging along behind, it's always
A better method for wire connection is to use the wise to allow an extra margin of stopping distance
4-pin plug/receptacle (Figure 10.17). The recepta- than normally would be required. Any motorhome

Figure 10.17 It's best to use a 4-pin round plug/receptacle when wiring a motorhome and dinghy vehicle.

Figure 10.18 Motorhome and dinghy vehicle set-up for towing


Figure 10.19 Six-pin plug/receptacle must be used when motorhome and dinghy vehicle have separate brake-
lights and turn signals.
towing a vehicle should always have the capability
of making an emergency stop on a downhill grade,
even though service brakes have been used inter-
mittently to retard speed. It's usually necessary to use
service brakes frequently to retard speed on down-
hill grades in mountainous terrain, sometimes to the
extent that partial brake fade occurs. Fade is caused
by overheating of brake pads, rotors, shoes, and
drums to the point where friction between the two
is partially or fully lost. Although the brake pedal
may feel firm, little or no reduction of speed occurs.
The RVer who is towing a vehicle on its own wheels
must use lower gears to retard speed and minimize
use of service brakes. If weight is too high to avoid
excessive use of service brakes, additional braking in
the form of a brake-equipped dolly, a brake actuat-
ing tow bar, an engine-braking system, or a
driveline retarder for the motorhome is needed.
There are several manufacturers offering products
that apply the towed vehicle's brakes in response to
motorhome braking. The complexity of today's brak-
ing systems, antilock braking system (ABS), and com-
puter-controlled braking makes actuating the dingey's
brakes a real challenge. Technology in this area is ad-
vancing rapidly. Expect several good dinghy-braking
systems to be on the market in the next few years.
There are many engine-braking systems available
for diesel-powered motorhomes. Exhaust brakes work
very well with diesels, providing extra compression
resistance when coasting. These types of brakes are
also available for gasoline engines. Diesel owners also
have the option of a compression brake, sometimes
known as a "Jake" brake, named after its manufac-
turer, Jacobs. This device is extremely effective, as it
CHAPTER 10 Dinghy Towing 10.13
alters the engine's valve timing, turning it into an ef-
ficient air compressor, providing heavy resistance
when coasting downhill. Another option for diesel
owners is a retarder built into the automatic trans-
mission. A torque converter-like device uses the trans-
mission's hydraulic fluid to provide resistance. This
system works very well but must be carefully matched
to the individual transmission. The heat generated is
dispersed through the transmission-oil cooler.
Driveline retarders have become popular because
they require no modification to the motorhome's
engine. These devices are installed on the driveshaft
and operate electrically. A rotor, surrounded by an
electrical coil, is connected to the driveshaft. When
current (12-volt DC) is passed through the sur-
rounding coils, a strong magnetic field is formed,
which slows the rotor. Braking force is controlled by
the amount of electrical current passing through the
coils. Heat is generated in the coils and is dissipated
to the surrounding air.
Remco Lube Pump
The lube pump allows towing automatic-transmis-
sion vehicles on all four wheels without damaging
the transmission. It uses a 1/8-hp self-priming pump
that provides lubrication for the transmission while
the vehicle is being towed without the engine run-
ning. The motorhome is connected to the towed ve-
hicle with a single cable that operates the pump, the
monitor, and the towed-vehicle taillights. A fail-safe
electronic alarm system is built into the monitor, pro-
viding a visual and audible signal if the pump is not
10.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
delivering an adequate amount of oil to the trans-
mission. When you plug in your towed vehicle to the
motorhome with the motorhome ignition on, the
red light and alarm will operate until the monitor
switch is turned on and the pump is operating.
If the red light/alarm comes on with the mo-
torhome engine running the monitor switch on, and
the towed vehicle connected, check the following:
■ Make sure the 10-amp fuse is in the blue wire
at the fuse holder.
■ Check the connection of the blue wire to the
motorhome battery.
■ Make sure the connections on the coiled
cable between the motorhome and towed
vehicle are secure at the sockets.
■ Assure proper ground on both vehicles is
okay.
■ Check that power is at the red wire at the
socket of the motorhome.
If the pump is running, check the following:
■ Transmission-fluid level in the towed vehicle.
■ Damage of the socket wiring and the lube
pump hoses.
■ Use a test light to check power across both
terminals of the pressure sensor at the selec-
tor valve.
■ Flow of transmission fluid from pump before
and after the pump filter. It should pump a
quart of fluid in ten to twelve seconds. If not,
replace the filter.
■ Make sure there are no grounding/shorts of
the red wire of the 2-conductor cable run-
ning back from the monitor to the socket of
the motorhome.
If the motorhome engine is on, the monitor switch
is off while not towing the vehicle, and the moni-
tor red light/alarm comes on intermittently while
driving the motorhome, or comes on continuously,
check for a short to ground in the red wire between
the monitor and the rear socket.
If the motorhome engine is running with the
towed vehicle connected and monitor lights are off
(red and green), check the following:
■ Fuse in the orange wire (1-amp fuse), with
the engine switch on.
■ Connection to ignition accessory terminal.
■ White ground connection from monitor.
■ MISCELLANEOUS TOWING TIPS ■
Motorhome owners who tow a vehicle on its own
wheels find that the miles on the odometer of the
towed vehicle accumulate rapidly, reducing the resale
value of the vehicle. Speedometer-tampering laws of
recent years have made it very difficult, illegal, or im-
possible to disconnect a speedometer drive. There are
several products on the market that disconnect the ca-
ble when the wiring harness is plugged into the mo-
torhome. Be aware that these devices are only "legal"
when operated as prescribed in the owner's manual.
A number of late-model vehicles use an electronic-
odometer system, which does not add miles when the
ignition key is turned to the off position (which it is
when you are towing). You may want to consider this
factor when shopping for a tag-along for your RV.
Some compact cars and trucks track better than oth-
ers while being towed due to differing steering geom-
etry. If a vehicle does not track well, have an alignment
shop set the front-wheel caster to the maximum fac-
tory-recommended setting. Always maintain maxi-
mum air pressure in tires to help reduce tire wear.
If the towed vehicle's front wheels have a tendency
to reverse-steer (crank all the way in the wrong direc-
tion when turning sharply) it may be necessary to use
a stretch-type cord to anchor the steering wheel to a
point on the driver's seat so the wheel cannot make
a full revolution. This is not ideal because it will ac-
celerate tire wear, but it will prevent an annoying lockup
situation in driveways and on other uneven terrain. A
little experimentation with cord tension and you'll
find the right setup that minimizes tire wear and pre-
vents the wheel from going full crank.
Avoid sharp turns at slow speeds. Motorhomes
have long rear overhangs, and sharp turns cause rapid
lateral movement of the hitch ball. This tends to drag
the towed vehicle sideways.
CAUTION: While towing with a tow bar or dolly, don't back
up. The car or dolly will not steer in the motorhome's intended
direction and the car will be dragged sideways.
 ■ CHAPTER 11 ■
HITCHES
H
itch systems are engineered to connect a tow
vehicle and a trailer in a manner that will re-
sult in a safe and appropriate marriage between the
two. In order for a hitch system to perform well,
the correct components must be selected for the job,
the equipment must be properly installed, and it
must be maintained so it can continue to perform
its function successfully.
For conventional trailers, there are two different
hitch types: weight distributing and weight carrying.
The names are, in and of themselves, accurate de-
scriptions of these types of hitches. Fifth-wheel trail-
ers can utilize two completely different types of hitches.
A weight-distributing hitch includes spring bars
that attach between the ball mount and the trailer
frame to distribute the hitch weight evenly to the
front and rear axles of the tow vehicle, as well as to
the trailer axles (Figure 11.1). Used properly, a
weight-distributing hitch sustains the tow vehicle
and the trailer at level attitudes after the full weight
of the A-frame has been imposed on the ball mount.
Sway-control devices are commonly used with weight-
distributing hitches.
A weight-carrying hitch (Figure 11.2) is designed
to support the full A-frame load on the ball mount
(or ball if a separate ball mount is not used). Un-
der this condition, the rear of the tow vehicle bears
the entire weight of the A-frame at the point of hitch
attachment. If the hitch weight is substantial, the rear
of the tow vehicle will be forced downward. As the
rear of the tow vehicle is loaded, the front of the
vehicle will rise, unloading the front axle. This can
result in light steering, decreased front-brake effec-
tiveness, and poor handling. This is one reason
weight-carrying hitches are rated only for lightweight
towing. Sway-control devices are sometimes used in
conjunction with weight-carrying hitches, depend-
ing upon the trailer being towed.
A fifth-wheel hitch consists of a platform that is
installed in the bed of a truck above the rear axle (Fig-
ure 11.3). The uppermost part of the hitch is the sad-
dle, which carries the weight of the pin box (the
coupling system that is attached to the trailer). This
is, in essence, a weight-carrying unit, because the full
hitch weight of the trailer is borne by the rear of the
tow vehicle without being distributed fore and aft by
hitch components. However, because the hitch point
is centered almost directly above or just forward of the
rear axle, there is none of the leverage on the rear of
the tow vehicle that a conventional trailer imposes.
With the hitch point so far forward, a portion of the
hitch weight is distributed to the front axle, so the tow
vehicle maintains a more level attitude than it would
if the same amount of weight were loaded on a con-
ventional hitch. Because of the location of the hitch,
fifth-wheel trailers can only be towed by flatbed or
pickup trucks with open cargo boxes. Sway-control de-
vices are not necessary and in fact cannot be employed
in conjunction with fifth-wheel hitch systems.
■ HITCH CLASSIFICATIONS ■
Conventional hitches are rated by the manufacturer
according to the maximum amount of weight they
are engineered to handle. The weight rating refers to
the total weight of the trailer, with the freshwater
tank full, propane tank/cylinder(s) full, all supplies
on board, and ready to travel. Class I hitches are rated
for towing as much as 2,000 pounds. Class II units
11.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 11.1 Weight-distributing hitches are designed for towing heavier trailers. Reese (a) and Eaz-Lift (b) are
major suppliers.
 CHAPTER 11 Hitches 11.3

Figure 11.2 Class I (right) and Class II (left) weight-carrying hitches are available for towing lighter trailers.

Figure 11.3 A fifth-wheel hitch platform is installed in the bed of the truck, over the rear axle.
11.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 11.4 PullRite hitch
are intended for loads up to 3,500 pounds. Class
III can be either weight-carrying or weight-distrib-
uting hitches, rated for trailers up to 5,000 pounds
gross weight. Class IV includes both weight distrib-
uting and fifth-wheel hitches, rated for trailers be-
tween 5,000 and 10,000 pounds.
Beyond Class IV are hitches that are rated for tow-
ing loads greater than 10,000 pounds. Reese offers
its Titan model Class V conventional receiver hitch
that is rated to tow as much as 12,000 pounds in
simple weight-carrying mode, or 14,000 pounds in
weight-distributing mode. Maximum hitch-weight
ratings are 1,200 pounds and 1,700 pounds respec-
tively. One caution should be mentioned here: When
using a Class V hitch, the operator must be certain
that the tow vehicle is rated for such heavy loads.
Simply installing a Class V hitch will not increase the
tow rating of the vehicle.
Another hitch system that exceeds the norm is the
PullRite, made by Pulliam Enterprises, Inc. PullRite
hitches (Figure 11.4) are unusual in that they reposi-
tion the pivoting hitch point quite a ways forward un-
der the tow vehicle to a location immediately behind
the axle housing. Moving the hitch point forward ef-
fectively delivers handling characteristics that fall some-
where between those of a conventional hitch and those
of a fifth-wheel hitch. The PullRite Heavy Duty was in-
troduced in 1985 for commercial trailer towing, where
heavy cargo and hitch weights exceeded the ratings of
standard conventional hitches. This model is rated for
Figure 11.5 Hensley Arrow advanced towing
system
towing as much as 20,000 pounds and for handling
hitch weights as heavy as 2,000 pounds. Again, the cau-
tion for owners is that the tow-vehicle ratings must
meet or exceed the loads being towed.
The Hensley Arrow Advanced Towing System (Fig-
ure 11.5) is rated at 10,000 pounds gross trailer weight
and 1,300 pounds of hitch weight. This is a separate
coupler unit designed to be used with a conventional
two-inch receiver. No modifications are required to
either the trailer or the tow vehicle in order to uti-
lize the Hensley Arrow. The assembly fits between
the trailer's coupler and the receiver hitch and con-
sists of an articulated ball mount, a set of weight-dis-
tributing spring bars, strut bars, and jack assemblies.
All this is designed to eliminate trailer sway, calm the
trailer on rough road surfaces, cause the trailer to
track more precisely behind the tow
vehicle, and reduce the bow wave effect caused by
18-wheelers flying past at high speed.
■ CONVENTIONAL HITCH HARDWARE ■
Receivers
A conventional hitch platform is secured beneath
the rear of the tow vehicle. The rearmost part of the
platform is the receiver—a section of reinforced
square-steel tubing into which the shank of a ball
mount is inserted (Figure 11.6).

Figure 11.6 Receiver assemblies are secured, preferably using bolts, to the rear of the tow vehicles.
Figure 11.7 Solid steel adjustable ball-mount
shanks are available for heavy towing service.
Shanks
For lightweight load-carrying service, there are ball-
mount shanks made of square-steel tubing. Heavy
towing, on the other hand, requires a solid shank
(Figure 11.7). In both cases, the shank has a hole
through it that lines up with holes on opposite sides
of the receiver. When the hole in the shank is lined
up with those in the receiver, a hitch pin is inserted
and held in place by a clip or a lock.
CHAPTER 11 Hitches 11.5
Ball Mounts
A ball mount is attached to the end of the shank (Fig-
ure 11.8). Some ball mounts are adjustable to ac-
commodate varying coupler heights and permit
fine-tuning of the hitch to optimize performance. Af-
ter the ball mount has been properly adjusted, it need
never be readjusted unless it is to be used with a dif-
ferent tow vehicle or trailer. When setting up an ad-
justable ball mount, level the trailer on a level surface.
Measure from the inside of the coupler to the ground
to determine the starting ball height. Set the ball so
that it is approximately 1 to 1-1/2 inches higher than
the measured figure. This is your starting point. Ad-
justments may be needed after the spring bars are at-
tached. If you plan on using a weld-together ball
mount, make sure the welding is done by a certified
shop. Adjustable ball mounts that bolt together, how-
ever, provide flexibility for unforeseen circumstances.
The Ball
A ball of appropriate size and rating is installed on
the ball mount (Figure 11.9). Balls are available in
sizes from 1-7/8 inches to 2-5/16 inches, with a variety of
risers to elevate the ball above the mount. Balls are
rated for loads ranging from 2,000 to 10,000 pounds,
but raised balls usually have lower ratings, It is crit-
ical that the ball rating be equal to or greater than
the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of the trailer.
11.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 11.8 Adjustable ball mounts allow flexibility when setting up bail height and angle.
To be safe, three or four threads of the ball shank
should be showing past the nut and lock washer
when properly tightened. Balls should be greased
with a thin layer of ball grease (available at most RV
supply stores).
When using a Reese ball mount, if the ball has a
1-inch threaded shank, use bushing no. 55030 to re-
duce hole size in the ball mount to 1 inch. Place a
Figure 11.9 Hitch balls are available in 1-7/8-inch,
2-inch, and 2-5/16 inch sizes; heavier trailers require a
2-5/16 inch size.
lock washer next to the nut. If the ball has a 3/4-inch
threaded shank and a standard-size (1 inch or more
thickness) nut, place a lock washer on top of the ball
mount. This reduces interference between the
spring-bar trunnion and ball nut during very tight
turns. If the ball has a 1-1/4 inch threaded shank and
thin nut (.72 inch thickness), place the lock washer
next to the nut. Torque the nut to 200 foot-pounds
in all cases.
Spring Bars
Spring bars are used with weight-distributlng hitches
to spread the hitch weight among the axles of both the
trailer and tow vehicle (Figure 11.10). Spring bars are
rated in various weight capacities, and the correct ones
must be employed to allow the load-distributing sys-
tem to function properly. The rule of thumb is to uti-
lize spring bars that are rated slightly higher (up to 250
pounds more) than the trailer's actual hitch weight. If
springs bars of insufficient capacity are used, the rear
of the tow vehicle will sag under the weight of the
A-frame, or the spring bars will need to be overten-
sioned to maintain a level tow vehicle. If springs bars
of excessive capacity are used, the ride quality could be
harsh.
When the spring bars are attached between the
ball mount and the trailer frame, tension adjustment

Figure 11.10 Spring bars are used to spread the
hitch weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle and
axle(s) of the trailer. Shown here are the Reese (top)
and the old-style Eaz-Lift (bottom).
is made by selecting the appropriate links of the
spring-bar chains. This permits fine-tuning of the sys-
tem for the proper amount of weight transfer. The
chains are attached to frame brackets on the trailer
CHAPTER 11 Hitches 11.7
A-frame, and chain lifters (brackets) apply tension
to the spring bars as they are locked in position.
Lightly grease the bar ends where they lock into
the ball mount to reduce wear on the components.
Safety Chains
It is vital that safety chains and hooks (or other at-
taching devices) are rated higher than the GVWR of
the trailer. The chains should be installed in such a
manner that they run from the A-frame to a set of chain
loops attached to the hitch receiver. Adjust the safety
chains so they are sufficiently loose to allow sharp cor-
nering without binding or other interference, while
being tight enough to prevent them from dragging on
the ground. Properly hooked up, safety chains should
cross beneath the coupler so that if the trailer were
to come uncoupled, the A-frame would be supported
above the ground in the cradle formed by the crossed
chains. Make sure the chains are positioned inside the
V formed by the spring bars.
■ INSTALLING THE HITCH ■
In every installation, it is vital to insure that the plat-
form is precisely aligned and solidly attached to
the tow-vehicle frame. High-grade bolts should be
employed, and they should be torqued according to
the manufacturer's installation instructions. When
using bolts, it's best to use those supplied with the
hitch equipment. Cheap, low-quality nuts and bolts
seem to be the norm when buying at certain hard-
ware store chains. Look for high-quality grade 5 or
grade 8 bolts and nuts, as required by the individual
hitch-hardware suppliers. Check with your local in-
dustrial supplier for the best nuts and bolts.
Conventional Hitches
Conventional hitch platforms are attached to the rear-
most section of the tow-vehicle frame. The platform
should be bolted in place with the appropriate hard-
ware. Welded receivers should be considered a thing
of the past. Care should be taken by the installer to
insure that the attachment points are those required
11.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
by the receiver manufacturer—usually the strongest
points of attachment. Most receiver assemblies are de-
signed for specific vehicles, and the bolt holes are pre-
drilled to make installation easy and safe. A major
safety point here: Do not try to save money by pur-
chasing a hitch lighter in capacity than you need to
safely tow the load. Your safety and the safety of oth-
ers depends on having the proper weight-carrying ca-
pacity for the intended load. All receivers should have
their weight ratings clearly labeled.
Fifth-Wheel hitches
There are several different brands and weight capac-
ities of fifth-wheel hitches on the market, but only
two basic types: fixed and tilting-head models. The
fixed head is held level with the sides of the bed of
the truck and can only pivot in a back and forth di-
rection. The tilting-head model pivots in a back-and-
forth direction and in a side-to-side motion, allowing
the fifth-wheel to be easily connected on ground that
is not level.
Fifth-wheel hitches also come in several weight
capacities, from 8,000 pounds to more than 25,000
pounds. Never buy a hitch that's rated lower than
the weight that you expect to tow. A good safety mar-
gin is to purchase a hitch that is at least 10 percent
over the GVWR of your fifth-wheel. If you plan on
towing a very heavy fifth-wheel, you should locate
the hitch-pin approximately two inches in front of
the rear axle line of the truck. This transfers addi-
tional weight to the front of the truck. In any case,
never locate the hitch pin behind the rear-axle line;
doing so can adversely affect handling.
There is a tremendous amount of pressure be-
tween the pin and the hitch saddle. To minimize the
wear and prevent binding between the pin, the sad-
dle, and the pinbox, you must lubricate the pin with
high-pressure grease. A cleaner method of reducing
the friction between the pinbox and the saddle is
to use a Teflon disk or pad, which eliminates the need
for grease. This also makes working around the sad-
dle cleaner without the fifth-wheel hitched.
When installing a fifth-wheel hitch, it is impor-
tant to bolt the platform directly to the tow-vehicle
frame rather than simply attaching it to the
sheet-metal floor of the cargo box. Prior to installa-
tion of a fifth-wheel hitch, the height of the hitch
point must be determined. Adjustment should be
made to allow a minimum of 5-1/2 inches of clearance
at the closest points between the top of the truck bed
rails and the bottom of the fifth-wheel.
Some applications, such as short-wheelbase trucks,
may not allow the hitch to be installed in the ideal lo-
cation due to clearance problems at the rear corners
of the truck cab. Specialized fifth-wheel hitch versions
that allow the saddle to be moved rearward when the
fifth-wheel must be maneuvered in close quarters are
available. You should not tow the fifth-wheel with the
saddle in the rearward position. If provisions are not
made to allow for greater clearance between the front
of the fifth-wheel and the rear of the truck cab, certain
collision damages are inevitable.
■ CONVENTIONAL HITCHING PROCESS ■
Successful use of weight-distributing hitch equip-
ment depends upon proper adjustment of all com-
ponents (Figure 11.11).
1. Begin with the tow vehicle and trailer parked
on level ground. Block the trailer wheels. Un-
hitch the trailer and use the tongue jack to ad-
just the trailer. Measure the distance between
the trailer frame and ground at the front and
rear corners, and adjust until the frame is
level. Note the following measurements:
a. Distance from ground to top of the
inside of coupler socket.
b. Distance from ground to lower corner
of bumper at all four corners of tow
vehicle. You can also use the distance
from the bottom of the wheel wells to
the ground as reference points.
2. The first adjustment to be made is the ball
height. With the adjustable ball mount se-
cured in the receiver, measure from the
ground to the top of the ball. Depending
upon the hitch weight and the type of tow ve-
hicle, the ball height will need to be adjusted
so that it is slightly higher than the distance
from the ground to the inside of the top of
the coupler. Use the following as a guide:
a. For trucks with extra-heavy-duty springs,
set the ball height equal to the coupler
height.

Figure 11.11 Proper adjustment of a weight-distributing hitch will move approximately 50 percent of the hitch
weight and spread 25 percent to the front axle of the tow vehicle and 25 percent to the trailer axles(s).
b. For pickups with standard springs, raise
the ball height about 1/32 inch for each
100 pounds of hitch weight.
c. For passenger cars, raise the ball height
about 1/16 inch for each 100 pounds of
hitch weight. After the rest of the hitch-
ing process has been accomplished, it
may be necessary to fine-tune the sys-
tem by moving the adjustable ball
mount up or down to achieve a near-
perfect ball height.
3. Adjustable ball mounts can also be tilted in
small increments, raising or lowering the
spring-bar tips in relation to the ground,
allowing them to be placed in the proper
attitude and under the right amount of ten-
sion. But this adjustment cannot be made
until the spring bars have been hooked up
and examined for proper position. To obtain
proper ball-mount tilt, insert the spring bars
CHAPTER 11 Hitches 11.9
in the sockets and swing them outward about
25 degrees, which is the same angle as they
will have when the trailer and tow vehicle are
hitched to one another. Lift up on the spring
bar tips to take up slack. Tilt the ball mount
to obtain the proper chain adjustment (Fig-
ure 11.12); this is your starting point.
4. The next step is to lower the weight of the
A-frame on the hitch. Make certain that the
coupler-locking mechanism grasps the ball se-
curely. Raise the tongue jack to remove all
weight from the hitch and continue upward
until the rear of the tow vehicle rises a few
inches (this will make lifting the spring bars
onto their brackets easier). Insert the spring
bars in their mounts and hook up the spring
bar chains to the chain-lift brackets on the
trailer A-frame. The chains should be as close
to vertical as possible, assuming the tow vehi-
cle and trailer are aligned straight ahead. If
11.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 11.12 Adjustable ball mounts allow the owner to regulate tilt when attaching spring bars.
necessary, move the brackets forward or back-
ward on the A-frame until the chains are verti-
cal. Insert the safety pin in the brackets before
you remove the lifting tool to prevent acciden-
tal injury from occurring after the load has
been imposed on the spring bars. Make sure
chains are not twisted; you may have to make
a half-twist to accommodate certain chain
positions in relation to the brackets.
A little experimentation is necessary to dis-
cover which link of the chain to use. Start with
a link that requires moderate force on the
chain-lift brackets and then make adjustment
up or down by one link until the spring bars
distribute the right amount of weight to keep
the tow vehicle level. Make sure you have no
fewer than four chain links under tension. Us-
ing fewer than four links can result in damage
to the brackets when turning tight corners. If it
is not possible to achieve a level tow vehicle
without tightening the chains beyond the
four-link limit, then the ball-mount angle
must be adjusted or spring bars of a higher-
weight capacity must be employed.
5. Lower the tongue jack until all the weight is
on the ball mount. Measure again beneath
the corners of the tow-vehicle bumpers where
you measured the first time to verify that the
vehicle has squatted equally front and rear,
or if the hitching process has inflicted torque
on the frame so that one side is lower than
the other. If it isn't correct, readjust the links
of the spring-bar chains, or change to spring
bars of a different weight rating, until the tow
vehicle squats equally front and rear and re-
mains level side to side.
Tightening the chains effectively transfers
load along the vehicle frame from the rear to
the front of the tow vehicle. Overtightening
may result in loss of traction in a rear-
wheel-drive vehicle and loss of rear-wheel-
braking effectiveness as the weight is
removed from the rear axle. Insufficient ten-
sion on the chains results in light steering,
reduced front-wheel-braking effectiveness,
and poor handling of the tow vehicle.
6. After determining which are the correct
spring-bar chain links for your trailer and
tow-vehicle combination, mark the proper
links with paint for future reference.
7. Finish the hitching process by attaching the
breakaway cable and plugging in the electrical
cord. After removing the blocks from the
trailer wheels, test the trailer lights and brakes.
■ FIFTH-WHEEL HITCHING PROCESS ■
Hitching a fifth-wheel trailer is, in some ways, easier
than hitching a conventional trailer. This is because
the fifth-wheel hitch is usually fully visible to the driver
at all times, so there is less difficulty in aligning the
hitch and coupler pin. Follow these guidelines:
1. Block the trailer wheels.
2. Lower the truck tailgate.
3. Raise the front trailer jacks until the pin-box
plate is slightly higher than the hitch saddle.

4. Remove the handle-locking pin, and rotate
the handle to open the pin lock. Some
brands of hitches do not require opening
the pin lock, but the retaining pin must be
removed first. Check with your owner's
manual for exact hitching instructions.
5. Slowly back up the truck until the kingpin is
firmly seated in the coupler slot. When the
kingpin engages the latch plate, the hitch
will automatically lock in place.
6. Set the tow-vehicle parking brake to hold
slight pressure against the kingpin.
7. Always visually inspect to insure that the
kingpin is solidly locked in place. If not,
repeat steps 5 and 6.
8. Replace the safety pin to secure the latch.
9. Attach the breakaway cable, plug in the elec-
trical cord, and raise the tailgate.
10. Remove the blocks from the wheels and
retract the front landing jacks.
11. Test trailer lights and brakes.
■ SWAY-CONTROL DEVICES ■
Two different types of sway-control devices are in
common use in the RV industry. They are the fric-
tion-type and the Reese Dual Cam Sway Control. Be-
cause of the way friction sway-control units operate,
and the forces they impose on the trailer A-frame,
they are not recommended for use on trailers with
surge brakes or on trailer A-frames with less than
.080-inch-wall thickness.
Friction sway-control mechanisms consist of a
bracket that attaches to the trailer frame with either
brackets or small socket and ball, a friction assembly
with a friction plate that is adjusted by turning a
screw-in handle, and a slide bar with a small ball socket
on the front end. For increased control, two units can
be installed, one on each side of the trailer A-frame.
In operation, the slide bar slips through the fric-
tion assembly, which is tightened until it acts as a
brake on the slide bar, permitting the bar to slide
in and out only under the influence of great force.
The socket end of the slide bar fits over a small ball
located to one side of, and to the rear of, the hitch
ball on the ball mount. This sets up a triangle be-
tween the trailer frame, the sway control, and the
hitch system. The sway-control unit acts as a vari-
CHAPTER 11 Hitches 11.11
able-length side of the triangle. Its length is permit-
ted to change when turning corners, yet the brak-
ing action of the friction assembly and slide bar resists
unwanted pivoting motion of the trailer and tow ve-
hicle while traveling.
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control is recommended
only for trailers with fairly heavy hitch weights (usu-
ally larger trailers in the 28- to 32-foot range). They
are a bit more complex than friction-type units, with
more hardware involved. Once installed, however,
no adjustment is needed. For even greater control,
the Reese Dual Cam Sway Control system can be used
along with one friction-type unit. With the Reese
Dual Cam Sway Control system, vertical movement
of the tow vehicle and trailer is permitted, but trailer
sway is dampened by torsion action of the cam arms
because they resist lateral movement.
It should also be pointed out that trailer sway is
likely caused by improper hitch weight. If the hitch
weight is too light, the trailer naturally becomes
tail heavy. A trailer that is tail heavy is always prone
to sway or fishtail.
Ideally, a conventional trailer should have a hitch
weight that is 12 to 15 percent of the overall trailer
weight—limited, of course, by the weight rating of
the hitch and the tow vehicle. In reality though, most
trailers have closer to 10 percent hitch weight.
First, find out your trailer's hitch weight. With the
trailer loaded and ready to go, take it to a certified pub-
lic scale and, with the spring bars disconnected, the
tongue jack on the scale, and the tow vehicle off the
scale, weigh the trailer. This will give you the total weight
of the trailer. Hitch up the trailer, set the coupler on
the ball (no spring bars), and take a second weight;
this is the axle(s) weight. Subtract this weight from the
total weight and you will have the hitch weight.
Hitch weight can be increased, if necessary, by
moving supplies forward.
Installing Sway-Control Devices
Reese Friction-type Sway-Control Device
To install the Reese friction-type device:
1. The Reese friction-type sway-control (Figure
11.13) is installed with the sway-control ball
11.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
located 1-3/8 inches forward of the hitch ball
and 5-1/2 inches outward. Install the ball using
a locking washer and nut. Locate the ball in
an outward most position and torque the nut
to 100 foot-pounds.
2. Hitch the trailer for normal towing. The
trailer should be aligned directly behind the
tow vehicle. If a tow vehicle is not available,
position the ball mount in the trailer coupler
so the hitch bar is on the centerline. It is
important that the hitch bar match the tow
vehicle hitch-box angle.
3. Check the position of the nylon pad. The cor-
rect position is inside the body between the
friction-plate assemblies and with the hole
aligned with body holes.
4. Install the handle with the washer into the
body. Lubricate the handle threads, the
washer, and the handle flange with oil or
light grease before installing the handle. Posi-
tion the slide-bar end 4-1/4 inches from and
parallel to the body. Tighten the handle.
5. Place the slide-bar coupler on the ball. Hold
the bracket up to the frame. Position the
bracket for optimum handle clearance. All
four comer holes must be riveted to secure
the frame-clamp bracket to the frame.
6. Drill one 3/8 inch hole through the bracket
and frame side. The hole must be straight
and round—the drill must not walk. The
holes in the bracket are punched undersize so
the drill will match bracket and frame holes.
Install the drive rivet. Use a washer on the
rivet if the frame is less than .120 inch thick.
Use a hammer to drive the rivet pin flush
with the rivet head.
NOTE: Use drive rivets for frames .080 inch to .188 inch
thick. For thicker frames, use SAE grade 5 bolts with nuts and
lock washers.
7. Drill three remaining corner holes. Immedi-
ately after each hole is drilled, install a rivet
or bolt.
8. Check for possible interference between the
end of the slide bar and the bracket rear end
and between the slide bar and snap-up
bracket. Check for interference between
bumper, bumper guards, coupler, and sway
control. Have an observer check for interfer-
ence while the trailer is slowly turned in both
directions. If necessary, loosen and move the
sway-control ball inward to obtain greater
clearance.
Eaz-Lift Friction-type Sway-Control Device
The Eaz-Lift friction-type sway-control device attaches
to a small ball on the ball mount and another small
ball on the trailer frame (Figure 11.14). A spring clip
is employed to secure both balls in their respective
sockets.
To position the ball for installation on the trailer
frame, measure 24 inches back from the center line
of the coupler ball to locate the center line of the
frame-mounted sway-control ball. The sway-
control ball can be either welded in place or secured
with self-tapping bolts.
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control
Installation is fairly simple for the Reese Dual Cam
Sway Control (Figure 11.15). There are two separate
units, each the mirror image of the other, one for the
right side of the trailer A-frame and one for the left
side. Each unit consists of a frame U-bolt pivot
bracket, a cam arm, and the cam. The U-bolt bracket
attaches to the trailer A-frame, and the pivot end of
the cam arm is bolted to the pivot point on the
bracket. At the lower end of the cam arm, a clevis is
used to connect the spring-bar chains to the cam arm.
Using this system, the spring bars are no longer di-
rectly chained to the chain-lift bracket. Rather, the
lower end of the cam arm fits up into the cam, which
is attached beneath the trailing end of the spring bar.
As the chain is tightened, the cam arm lifts the spring
bar, thereby distributing the load.
Steps for installation are as follows:
1. Assemble the clevis through the chain. Attach
the clevis to the cam arm with a 3/8 inch bolt
and a 3/8 inch locknut. Assemble the cam arm
to the pivot bracket using a 1/2 inch bolt.
Assemble with the bolt head to the outside
and tighten the nut securely against lock
washer.
 CHAPTER 1 1 Hitches 11.13

Figure 11.13 Reese friction-type sway-control device

11.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 11.14 Eaz-Lift friction-type sway-control device
2. Attach pivot brackets to each side of trailer
A-frame using four U-bolts. Install eight
7/16 inch tail nuts—leave nuts one turn loose.
CAUTION: Be sure U-bolts are at least 2-1/2 inches apart;
5 inches is preferred.
NOTE: If frame is open on one side (C-channel), install a
reinforcing plate in the open side where the pivot brackets are
attached.
3. Attach the snap-up bracket to the trailer
frame so the chain is vertical, if possible.
4. Attach the cam to the small end of the spring
bar using a 1/2 inch bolt and lock washer,
and a 3/8 inch U-bolt with two nuts and lock
washers. Torque the 1/2 inch bolt to 70
foot-pounds. Tighten U-bolt nuts. Rap each
comer of U-bolt with a hammer, and torque
nuts to 25 foot-pounds.
NOTE: The cam must be mounted on the bottom side of
the spring bar.
5. Measure from the ground to the top plate of
the ball mount. Connect the trailer to the tow
vehicle. Using the tongue jack, raise the
trailer A-frame and the rear of the tow vehicle
approximately 5 to 8 inches. Install the
spring-bar trunnion in the ball mount. Place
the bottom trunnion into the lower socket
first. Spring bars may be used on either side.
Mate spring bar and cam to cam arms. Pull
the chain vertical and place the appropriate
link on the hook of the snap-up bracket.
Place the snap-up in the up position. Install
the safety pin. Then install the second spring
bar using the same number of chain links.
6. Lower the tongue jack. Again measure from
the ground to the top plate of the ball
mount. Measurements should be the same or
1/2 inch less than before. If not, select the
chain link that will bring the tow vehicle to
a level position.
NOTE: Tow vehicle and trailer should be loaded and ready
for travel before final leveling.
When hitching with the Reese Dual Cam system,
the spring bars are positioned in such a manner that
 CHAPTER 11 Hitches 11.15

Figure 11.15 Reese Dual Cam Sway Control (two views)

11.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE H I T C H S Y S T E M

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Coupler separates from ball
Spring bar falls out on ground
Spring-bar tension brackets open and
release tension
Noise from hitch
Poor tow-vehicle handling
Loss of traction
Light steering
Steering plows through corners
Trailer sways easily
Coupler ball clamp failure
Failure to properly connect coupler over ball
Improper ball size
Broken spring-bar retaining clips
Failure to properly insert spring bars
Broken or missing bracket safety pins
Dry ball
Loose receiver bolts
Dry spring-bar ends
Improper spring-bar tension
Improper ball height
Improper ball-mount angle
Excessive spring-bar tension
Insufficient spring-bar tension
Excessive sway control
Insufficient sway control
Worn sway control
Insufficient tongue load
Check ball clamp for breakage or
excessive wear
Double-check ball clamp when
hitching up
Check ball size and replace if
necessary
Inspect ball mount for broken or missing
spring-bar retaining clips
Double-check installation
Inspect bracket safety pins and replace
if necessary
Lubricate ball
Inspect bolts attaching receiver platform to
vehicle frame; tighten if necessary.
Inspect and lubricate trunnion ends of
spring bars
Double-check hitching procedure
Remeasure and adjust for proper
ball height
Adjust ball-mount angle to sustain spring
bars level with ground and a minimum of
four chain links is under tension
Reduce spring-bar tension
Increase spring-bar tension
Reduce sway control
Increase sway control
Inspect sway-control-friction surfaces
and replace if necessary
Increase tongue load to about 12 percent
of total trailer weight

the lower end of the cam arm fits up into the cam
beneath the tail end of the bars. The only adjustment
made is to insure that the frame brackets are posi-
tioned so the system is self-centering. To do this,
loosen the U-bolt nuts slightly and drive straight
ahead with the trailer in tow for about 100 feet. Check
mating of cam with arms and, if the bracket posi-
tioning is not correct, rap the pivot brackets with a
hammer to jar them into place. Then tighten the
U-bolt nuts. Periodic rechecking of alignment is part
of standard maintenance.
Adjusting Sway-Control Devices
Adjusting a Reese sway-control friction assembly to
work with a particular trailer requires some experi-
menting. After coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle
 CHAPTER 11 Hitches 11.17

and hooking up the sway-control device, it is neces- ■ HITCH MAINTENANCE ■

sary to find the zero-load point of the friction as-
sembly. Do this by tightening the handle while at the Checking Hitch Systems
same time moving the slide bar up and down in the
friction assembly by hand. When the bar won't move • Inspect all fasteners for tightness at least every
any farther, the zero-load point has been reached. 2,000 miles of operation. This includes the
Note the position of the handle, and tighten 1/2 bolts holding the receiver platform to the tow
to 1 turn for small trailers up to about 3,500 pounds. vehicle frame, the ball-mount bolts,
Tighten 1 to 1-3/4 turns for trailers between 3,000 and spring-bar-tension bracket bolts, and
7,000 pounds. (Overtightening can damage the unit.) sway-control mounts.
This will give you a starting point, after which it is • On fifth-wheel systems, inspect the platform
necessary to drive the vehicle in order to determine bolts and the kingpin box mounting bolts.
whether more adjustment is necessary. Make addi- Torque all platform-mounting bolts to 50 to
tional adjustments 1/4 turn at a time until it feels right. 55 foot-pounds. Torque kingpin box bolts to
An indication that the sway control is too tight is 150 foot-pounds.
when the vehicle doesn't easily and fully return to • On tilt-platform fifth-wheel systems, locate
a straight-ahead position after turning a comer. and grease all Zerk fittings and pivot points.
The Eaz-Lift friction-type sway-control device is • If a Teflon or hard plastic pad is used on a
adjusted differently. Adjustment can be made by fifth-wheel hitch, inspect it for cracks and
tightening or loosening the bolt below the handle, large chips. Replace the pad if damaged.
before tightening the handle itself. • Inspect ball clamp and coupler-latching
Adjustment for the Reese Dual Cam Sway Control mechanism for freedom of movement before
system is accomplished by loosening the eight 7/16-inch each use. Clean old grease from coupler — do
nuts. Drive the tow vehicle and trailer in a straight line. not let it harden inside the ball mount. Lubri-
This is important. Sight down the center of the hood, cate ball with a fiber-type lubricant such as
and drive approximately 100 feet toward a distant point. wheel bearing grease (recommended every
Check mating of cam with cam arms. If not mated day).
squarely, rap pivot brackets with a hammer. • On fifth-wheel systems, inspect kingpin latch
Tighten the eight 7/16 inch tail nuts. Torque each plate and latch bolt for freedom of operation.
nut to 60 foot-pounds, but be careful not to distort • Inspect spring-bar trunnions and mounting
the frame. sockets for wear before each use. Clean, then
NOTE: From time to time, it may be necessary to use a different lubricate with fiber-type wheel bearing grease
chain link to properly level the tow vehicle and trailer. This may be due (recommended every day).
to weight changes in the tow vehicle or trailer or due to trunnion wear. • On fifth-wheel systems, inspect the kingpin,
Level the tow vehicle, readjust the dual-cam system, and recheck pin-box plate, and saddle for excessive wear
alignment periodically. or damage.

■ CHECKLIST ■
SWAY-CONTROL DEVICES

■ For friction-type sway-control devices, inspect and clean the components. Oil should be applied periodically to the handle and bolt threads,
the trunnion bolts, and the ball. No oil should ever be placed on the friction surfaces of the slide bar.
■ On a new Eaz-Lift unit, it is recommended that after 1,000 miles of break-in, the owner should remove the slide bar and clean it with a
wire brush or steel wool. Repeat this operation every 10,000 miles.
■ Reese Dual Cam Sway Control system maintenance consists of lubricating the ball-mount sockets and spring-bar trunnions to prevent
rapid wear.
■ Trunnions should be lightly lubricated every towing day. Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled.
It's wise to oil the pivot-bolt joints occasionally at each end of the cam arms, because the system was designed to utilize metal-to-metal
friction. If the unit is noisy, it is permissible to lightly coat the cam surface with petroleum jelly.
11.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 11.16 Latch bolt and pivot point in fifth-wheel hitches must be lubricated with SAE 30-weight oil every
six months.
• Inspect safety chains for signs of wear or stress
before each use.
• On fifth-wheel systems (Figure 11.16), lubri-
cate the latch bolt and pivot point of latch
plate with SAE 30 oil at least every six
months.
• Grease the load-bearing surfaces of the
fifth-wheel hitch with a lithium-base grease
every 2,000 miles of operation to reduce wear
and provide easier turning, if a Teflon disc is
not used. Inspect and clean fifth-wheel hitch
latch plate before each use. On fifth-wheel
hitches, grease the pivot points between the
rails and hitch with a lithium-base grease
every 2,000 miles of operation.
• Replace all worn or damaged parts.
Easy Rider Air Ride Hitch
Air suspension technology is applied to both fifth-
wheel (Figure 11.17) and conventional hitches made
by Easy Rider, Inc., to cushion the load of the hitch
weight. As with the use of all other hitches, the owner
must verify that the gross trailer weight does not
exceed the specific hitch model's load rating, nor the
tow vehicle's towing capacity.
The fifth-wheel hitches are designed for use with
light-duty or medium-duty trucks and fifth-wheel
trailers only. Height of the hitch and pin box should
be adjusted so the trailer is level as it is towed. To al-
low space for movement of the trailer and tow ve-
hicle, a minimum of seven inches of clearance should
be provided between the top of the truck cargo box
walls and the underside of the front of the trailer.
Even more clearance should be provided, if the trailer
will be towed over rough roads or off-road trails.
NOTE: If using a 20k Reese head, make sure to use the smaller
locking cotter pins on the rocker head on the bottom side of rocker. On
AR20K models, make sure all bolts are installed with nuts facing out-
ward or away from the hitch to avoid potential contact with rocker head
spreader bar.
CAUTION: Do not over-inflate air springs. Pressure must not ex-
ceed 100 psi. Along those lines, the air springs must not be operated at
a pressure below 10 psi, or the bladders may collapse or cock sideways.
If that should happen, release all the air pressure, straighten the air
springs, then re-inflate slowly.
On conventional Air Ride hitches, if all air is lost
from the air spring, or the air spring turns to the side,
release air pressure, disconnect from trailer and un-

Figure 11.17 Easy Rider air-suspension fifth wheel hitch rated at 20,000 pounds.
pin latching pins. Then slowly add air pressure un-
til the air spring stands up straight. Release air pres-
sure to 10 psi. Move platform up and down until
spring is in normal operating position.
With the trailer hitched, inflate or deflate the air
springs until the two red lines are in line with each
other. If the red line on the air ride system bar drops
below the line above the gussets, physically raise the
front of the trailer to relieve weight and inflate un-
til the red lines are properly aligned. Within limits,
air pressure may be adjusted to maximize or cus-
tomize the ride to fit a particular trailer and towing
application.
If you feel the trailer topping out to touch the top
bump stop, decrease air pressure to reduce height in
1/2-inch increments until ride is adjusted properly.
If the trailer bottoms out enough to touch the bot-
tom bump stops, increase air pressure to increase
height in 1/2-inch increments until ride is adjusted
CHAPTER 11 Hitches 11.19
properly. If the red line on the top bar still drops be-
low the other red line, even though the air springs
have 100 psi, there is too much hitch weight.
Maintenance
• Lubricate the top bearing surface of the hitch
with automotive-type chassis grease, or use a
Teflon or hard plastic lube plate to provide a lu-
bricated surface. Greasing should be done prior
to initial use, and then every 10,000 miles or
once per year.
• Prior to each use, operate the handle and ob-
serve that the jaws open and close freely.
• Check all fastening hardware to ensure tightness
and freedom from damage.
• See that all hitch pins are in place and the spring
retaining pins are installed.
11.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 11.18 McCall Air-Ride Hitch System is fully articulated.
McCall Air-Ride Hitch System
Developed in 1994, the McCall Air-Ride Hitch System
(Figure 11.18) is fully articulated and provides an air-
cushioned fifth-wheel platform that includes air springs
and shock absorbers integrated into the system.
Maintenance
• Keep the hitch plate clean and properly lubri-
cated. Heavy grease is not recommended. The
best lubricant, according to the manufacturer,
is a graphite-based lube such as Lock Ease or a
silicone spray.
• Check the hitch for abnormal wear.
• Periodically check system and make necessary
adjustments to ensure proper fit of pin and lock-
ing system.
• Keep air bags clean and coated with a condi-
tioner that has a UV blocker.
• Check hold-down bolts to ensure tightness and
integrity.
• Take care not to over- or under-inflate the air
bags.
• Check shock absorbers for oil leaks. This would
be indicated by a buildup of dust around the
piston stem seal at the top of the cylinder.
 ■ CHAPTER 12 ■

DRIVETRAIN SYSTEMS

Fuel-Filter Replacement
A
n RV engine is the heart of the drivetrain,
which consists of an engine, a transmission,
a driveshaft, a differential, axles, and wheel bear- Engines have a fuel filter installed in the system to
ings. The engine is a complex piece of machinery prevent dirt and debris from reaching the carburetor
that requires proper lubrication and tune-up inter- (or fuel injectors). Periodic maintenance of this el-
vals to live up to its performance potential. ement can prevent many roadside difficulties. De-
The types and varieties of engines range all the pending on the vehicle, fuel filters are found in a
way from a small 1.5-liter four-cylinder type found variety of locations.
in a compact car to a 8.0-liter gasoline V-10 to a thun-
dering 525-horsepower diesel in a high-line mo- The Inlet The filter is located either behind the fuel-
torhome. Because each type requires a systematic inlet nut on the carburetor or enclosed in a small
approach to both maintenance and troubleshoot- canister that screws on the front of the carburetor
ing, every RV owner should become familiar with bowl (Figure 12.1).
the requirements of his or her particular engine. To
identify the engine, check the emissions sticker at- The In-line Filter A metal or plastic canister is located
tached under the hood or on the engine's valve cover. between the fuel pump and the carburetor (Figure
Most heavy-duty diesel engines have a stamped metal 12.2). This type of filter is easily replaced by remov-
plate riveted directly to the engine block or to one ing the hose clamps and replacing with a new ele-
of its cover housings. If the sticker or plate is miss-
ing, check with the vehicle manufacturer to make
positive identification of the engine. It is vital to know
the engine type, displacement (size), and sometimes
the serial number, so that the proper parts and ac-
cessories can be purchased.

■ ENGINE SERVICE AND REPAIR ■

Most vehicles will be difficult to start without a fully

charged battery that is in good condition. Make sure
that connections are clean and tight. A battery can be
charged with a trickle charger over a period of hours
or by using a fast charger that can boost the battery in Figure 12.1 The carburetor inlet filter is usually
about thirty minutes (see page 1.13). located behind the fuel-inlet nut.
12.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

When fuel filters for a diesel engine are changed, it

is necessary to bleed the system of air. The injection
system will not function properly with air in the fil-
ters or lines. Depending on the type of diesel engine
you are dealing with, the filter change/bleeding op-
eration will vary. Check the owner's manual for your
particular application.

Air-Filter Service

Changing the air filter is probably the easiest main-

tenance operation to perform on any vehicle (Figure
12.3). Be sure to check for the correct type and size
Figure 12.2 In-line filters can be made of plastic air-cleaner element. The wrong air-cleaner element
or metal; all these filters are flow-directional. can allow air to pass over instead of through the ele-
ment, where dirt particles can be removed. Tests have
ment. In-line filters used for fuel-injection systems shown that an engine's life is only about a third of
are under a great amount of pressure and can pose what it could be when it is operated without an air-
a serious danger if the pressure is not relieved before cleaner element. To change the air-cleaner element:
removing. Make sure that the flow-direction arrow
is pointed toward the engine so that the filter will 1. Purchase the correct size air filter for the
function correctly. make and model of your RV's engine.
2. Open the air-cleaner housing and lift or pull
On the Fuel Pump Many older RVs use a filter located out the old element.
on the bottom of the fuel pump, housed in a screw- 3. Do not attempt to clean the old element.
on container. By simply removing the container, a Air filters are relatively inexpensive; use a
new element can be installed in minutes. new one.
4. Make sure the new element you are installing
In-Tank Filters Many newer vehicles, especially those is exactly the same type as the old one.
with fuel injection, utilize an intake filter that con- 5. Drop the new element into the housing and
sists of a fine-mesh screen formed like a sock on the replace the cover. Tighten the cover securely.
end of the fuel pickup. These screens require no pe-
riodic maintenance; however, if dirty fuel blocks the
screen, fuel pressure will be low and performance
poor. In some cases, a blocked filter sock can create
symptoms similar to vapor lock. In most models, the
fuel tank must be drained and dropped to facilitate
cleaning of the screen.
Diesel engines usually have two (a primary and a
secondary) filtering systems that remove particles much
smaller in diameter than those caught by gasoline fil-
ters. This is necessary because diesel-injection sys-
tems require extremely clean fuel. Diesel-fuel systems
also have a water trap; diesel fuel has an affinity for wa-
ter. Unlike gasoline engines, which can pass water
relatively easily through the combustion chambers of
the engine, water will not pass through the small holes Figure 12.3 Clogged air cleaners can decrease
in the diesel-injection nozzles. performance and shorten engine life.
 CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.3

Oil and Filter Changes

Changing the engine oil and filter, one of the most

important maintenance procedures to prolong the
life of an RV engine, is also easy and inexpensive to
do in your own backyard. Use only top-quality oil
and filters; bargain-basement lubricants may do more
harm than good in the long run. Use only SH- or SJ-
rated oils for gas engines and CG4-rated oils for
diesels. Follow the manufacturer's viscosity recom-
mendations for the ambient outdoor temperatures
you expect to encounter. Generally, for gasoline en-
gines, 20W-50 works well for summer use and 10W- Figure 12.4 A proper fitting wrench or socket must
30 for cold (consistently below 32 ° F) winter driving. be used to remove the oil-pan drain plug, or the
If you have a diesel engine, carefully check the oil plug head might be stripped.
requirements. Most heavy-duty diesels require a 15W-
40 viscosity rating meeting the CG4 standards, while
lesser-duty types may have different requirements.
Engine oil and filter changes can be accomplished
by following these simple steps;

1. Check the owner's manual for the engine-

oil capacity with a filter change. Purchase
the correct quantity of oil and the correct oil
filter for the engine.
2. Operate the engine until it is fully warmed.
It will require seven to ten miles of driving
to fully warm the engine.
3. With a proper-fitting wrench or socket,
loosen the drain plug in the oil pan
(Figure 12.4).
4. Drain the oil into a suitable container for
proper disposal. Used oil is accepted at Figure 12.5 There are many tool configurations for
most service stations for recycling. removing oil filters.
5. While the oil is draining, remove the oil
filter with a filter wrench (Figure 12.5). 9. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount
6. Clean the oil-filter base on the engine block of oil and replace the fill cap.
with a rag. Make sure that the oil filter's 10. Start the engine. Watch the oil-pressure
O-ring gasket came off with the old filter gauge or light: If pressure is not attained
and did not stick to the filter base on the after fifteen to twenty seconds, shut off the
engine. engine before damage can be done. If pres-
7. Wipe a thin film of clean oil on the gasket sure does not build, check for leakage. It is
of the new filter and screw it into place. Fill rare that the oil pressure fails to return to
the oil filter with fresh oil first if it mounts normal after an oil change, but if it does
vertically to the engine, and hand tighten fail, have a professional check the system be-
with a three-quarter turn after the gasket fore running the engine.
contacts the filter base. 11. Once the oil pressure is confirmed, check for
8. Next, replace the drain plug in the oil pan any external leaks around the drain plug and
and tighten snugly. filter gasket while the engine is running to
12.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE E N G I N E

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Will not start Low battery Charge or replace

Out of fuel Refill
Clogged fuel filter Clean or replace
Faulty ignition Repair
Wet ignition components Dry ignition with hair dryer
Flooded carburetor Wait fifteen minutes, retry
Inoperative carb choke Adjust and clean
Vapor lock Let engine cool
Defective starter Replace
Bad starter solenoid Replace
Hard to start Inoperative carb choke Adjust and clean
Damp ignition parts Dry parts
Weak battery Charge or replace
Incorrect timing Check and reset timing
Dirty air filter Replace with new filter
Worn spark plugs Replace with new plugs
Faulty ignition cables Replace with new cables
Contaminated fuel Drain, fill with fresh fuel
Clogged fuel filter Clean or replace filter
Wrong oil viscosity Replace with proper type for climate
Overheating engine Check cooling system
Lack of power Clogged air cleaner Replace
Worn spark plugs Replace
Poor fuel delivery Check fuel pressure
Wrong ignition timing Check and reset timing
Incorrect fuel mixture Repair or recalibrate carburetor
Poor engine compression Perform compression check
Restricted exhaust Examine exhaust components
Dragging brakes Examine brake system
Worn cam timing chain Replace
Low oil pressure Low oil level Fill to proper level
Inaccurate gauge Compare with good gauge
Incorrect oil viscosity Replace with proper oil for climate
Aerated, level too high Confirm dipstick reading
Worn engine bearings Overhaul engine
Defective oil pump Replace with new pump
Clogged pickup screen Clean and replace
Diluted oil Inspect for coolant contamination
 CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.5

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE E N G I N E , c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Burning excessive oil Clogged PCV or hose Replace

Worn piston rings Overhaul engine
Defective bearings Overhaul engine
Worn valve guides Valve job with new guides
External engine leaks Replace defective gaskets
Vacuum leak Replace intake-manifold gasket

Defective valve seals Replace with new seals

Overheating Loose fan belt Check belt tension
Low coolant level Inspect for level or leaks
Dirty radiator fins Clean radiator
Obstructed radiator Remove obstruction
Clogged radiator core Clean or replace radiator
Failed water pump Replace
Bad radiator cap Check holding pressure
Incorrect ignition timing Check and reset timing
Lean fuel/air ratio Calibrate or adjust carburetor/EFI fuel
pump/EFI system
Collapsed radiator hose Replace hoses
Stuck thermostat Replace thermostat
Broken fan shroud Replace

Faulty thermostatic fan Check for engagement

Improper coolant Verify 50-50 ratio
Leaking head gasket Perform cylinder-leak test
Blocked exhaust system Inspect for obstruction
Cracked head or block Perform cylinder-leak test

assure that the job is leak-free. yourselfer except to replace suspected parts. If your
12. Repeat this oil-changing routine every 3,000 RV utilizes a replaceable control unit (sometimes
miles or according to the schedule in your known as a "black box" or module), you can pur-
owner's manual for severe service. chase and carry a spare. This may prove, however, to
be expensive with some models of ignition systems.
Replacement instructions vary widely; follow the re-
Ignition Systems placement-part manufacturer's instmctions exactly.

Service and repair of ignition systems are becoming

increasingly complex with the extensive use of elec-
tronic computer-controlled circuitry. Expensive spe-
cialized testing equipment is needed to analyze most
electronic-ignition systems; this is best left to a re-
pair facility. When these electronic systems go down,
there is little that can be done by the average do-it-
Checking the Ignition System
There are very few RVs on the road that utilize a points
ignition system; in the past few years electronic-
ignition systems have been supplied by vehicle man-
ufacturers as original equipment. If your rig has a points
12.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
system, you can easily carry spare parts for roadside
repair or convert it to an electronic ignition system.
To check the ignition system, follow these steps:
1. Remove a spark-plug cable,expose terminal
and hold it about 1/2 inch from a ground
source (Figure 12.6).
2. Use a remote starter switch or have a friend
crank the engine and look for a spark jump-
ing from the cable to the ground surface.
3. No spark or a short yellow (weak) spark indi-
cates ignition trouble.
4. With a points-ignition system, remove the
distributor cap and check to see that the
points open and close when the engine is
cranked.
5. Points should open about .020 inch (about
the thickness of five or six sheets of paper).
If not, open them using a feeler gauge be-
tween the contacts when the point-rubbing
block is on the peak of one of the distributor
cam lobes.
6. If you have a test light or a multimeter (DC
volts) make sure there is power to the movable
contact of the points. Open the points and
turn on the ignition switch. Place the positive
test lead on the movable contact and the other
lead to ground: There should be about 9 volts
to the point's movable contact. If voltage is
present, but there still is no spark, the problem
is narrowed to the ignition coil or the con-
denser. The condenser can be tested with the
points open using a multimeter (ohms). There
should be infinite resistance between the body
of the condenser and the pigtail lead leaving
the condenser. If not, the condenser is inter-
nally grounded and must be replaced.
7. If replacing the condenser does not result
in spark from the coil, the coil should be
replaced.
8. Sometimes failure to start is caused by mois-
ture in the coil or distributor. The only solu-
tion is to remove the moisture. Remove the
distributor cap and dry the inside. A dry pa-
per towel or rag works well. Or if you have an
RV equipped with an AC generator, use an
electric hair-dryer to dry components quickly,
especially in those hard-to-reach locations.
Figure 12.6 Hold the spark-plug cable about
1/2 inch from a ground source and crank the engine
to check for ignition spark.
Ignition Timing
Proper ignition timing is vital to engine performance
and economy (Figure 12.7). Timing can be set ac-
curately with a precision timing light. Timing set-
tings vary widely among engine types, sizes, and year
of manufacture. The correct setting can be found on
the underhood emission sticker or by checking the
service manual for the model year and displacement
of engine. In electronic fuel-injected engines, timing
is controlled by the on-board computer and should
not be set by the vehicle owner.
It is often necessary to use a specially shaped tool,
called a distributor wrench, to loosen the hold-down
bolt because of poor accessibility to the bolt (Figure
12.8). One rule to remember: Rotating the distribu-
tor in the same direction that the distributor shaft turns
will retard the timing; rotating the distributor in the
opposite direction of the shaft rotation will advance
the timing (Figure 12.9).
Setting the Timing
To set engine timing:
1. Make sure the crankshaft pulley is clean and
timing marks are visible.
1. Connect the timing light to the battery and
number 1 spark-plug cable.
3. Loosen the hold-down bolt until the distribu-
 CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.7

tor moves under moderate pressure. Remove

the vacuum hose leading to the distributor-
advance diaphragm and plug it (most
engines).
4. Make sure the timing-light wires are clear of
the exhaust manifold, belts and fan; start the
engine and allow it to idle at factory-recom-
mended speed (off choke).
5. Aim the light at the timing marker. Make
small corrections by moving the distributor
slightly until the correct timing setting lines
up with the marker (Figure 12.10).
6. Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt and
check setting again; repeat if the setting
Figure 12.7 Accessibility of timing marks in some changed when the hold-down bolt was
vehicles is sometimes poor, but here the timing mark tightened.
is fairly easy to view.

Carburetor Flooding

Engine flooding is caused by an excessive amount of

fuel entering the cylinders, resulting in an engine that
is difficult or impossible to start. The situation also
causes oil to be washed from the cylinder walls, caus-
ing rapid wear of piston rings. Ultimately the oil in

Figure 12.8 A distributor wrench is the best tool

for loosening the hold-down bolt on the distributor.

Figure 12.9 The distributor is turned to adjust the Figure 12.10 Once the timing setting marks line
timing; rotation in the same direction of the distribu- up with the pointer, the distributor must be tightened
tor shaft retards the timing. and the timing rechecked.
12.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
the crankcase can become diluted, leading to early
engine-bearing failure. Flooding is sometimes a prob-
lem at high altitudes, where gasoline boils more eas-
ily. This causes fuel to bubble over into the intake
manifold. The most common causes are defective or
improperly adjusted carburetor floats, defective nee-
dle and seat assemblies, dirty air-cleaner elements,
and poorly adjusted carburetor chokes. EFI (elec-
tronic fuel injection) systems have nearly eliminated
engine flooding with their precise control of fuel de-
livery, whether conditions are hot or cold. Here are
the procedures to start a flooded engine:
1. Wait fifteen minutes before attempting to
start a flooded engine. This time will allow
some of the fuel in the cylinders to dissipate.
2. Do not pump the accelerator pedal. This only
worsens the situation by inducing additional
fuel into the engine.
3. After fifteen minutes, press the accelerator
to the floor and hold the throttle wide open
while cranking the engine. This allows the
maximum amount of air to enter the cylinders
while adding a minimum amount of fuel.
4. If the engine still does not start, remove the
air-cleaner cover and check the carburetor
choke plate. When the engine is warm, the
choke plate should be open, standing in a ver-
tical position. If it is not open, it can be manu-
ally propped open and the engine then
cranked over. Caution should be exercised
here not to crank the engine with the
air-cleaner cover off, which can result in a fire
should the engine backfire upon starting. If it
is stuck closed, the most likely cause is dirty or
bent linkage or a defective choke-control unit.
Commercially available carburetor cleaners
can be used to clean dirty linkage. If this does
not cure the problem, the control unit should
be replaced and the choke readjusted.
Vapor Lock
Vapor lock is the opposite of flooding: no fuel is reach-
ing the carburetor. This condition is common dur-
ing warm weather when the fuel in the pump or lines
becomes so hot that the fuel vaporizes and fails to
reach the carburetor in sufficient amounts to allow
the engine to function. Some RV engines have chronic
vapor-lock problems. In the past few years, with the
proliferation of electronic fuel-injection (EFI) systems,
vapor-lock complaints have been reduced consider-
ably. The fuel in these systems is under a higher pres-
sure (30 to 50 psi versus 4 to 7 psi in carbureted
systems) and these systems have a closed-loop-plumb-
ing design, which always keeps a fresh, cool supply of
fuel going to the injection manifold. Whether it's a
carburetor or EFI, there are some basic things that can
be done to prevent or reduce vapor lock:
1. Make sure all fuel lines are routed away from
heat sources, especially exhaust components.
If it is impossible to route lines away from
heat sources, they should be protected by
a shield.
2. An auxiliary electric fuel pump (for carbu-
reted systems) mounted as near the fuel tank
as possible and fitted with 3/8 inch hose barbs
will keep the engine's mechanical pump
supplied with sufficient fuel to reduce the
incidence of vapor lock.
3. If vapor lock does occur, pull well off the
road and allow the engine to cool. Pouring
cool water over the fuel lines and the
pump will cause the fuel to condense back
to liquid form.
4. Fuel tanks must be properly vented, either
through the filler cap or by the evaporative
emission system, to allow air to enter the
tank as fuel is drawn from it. If the tank can-
not vent, the resulting vacuum will cause
the engine to starve for fuel.
Electric Fuel Pumps as a Remedy for Vapor Lock
Vapor-lock problems can be difficult to correct but
the installation of an auxiliary fuel pump at the rear
of the vehicle (in carbureted vehicles) near the fuel
tank is often an effective solution (Figure 12.11).
Since the engine-mounted fuel pump must draw fuel
by suction from the fuel tank at the rear and lift it to
the carburetor, the slightest bit of vapor developing
in the fuel lines due to excessive heat will cause the
pump to lose suction and fail to pump An electric
pump mounted near the tank is not as susceptible
to heat absorption and will force a steady column of

Figure 12.11 Installation of an electric fuel pump should be as close to the fuel tank as possible. An on/off
switch located under the dash and an oil-pressure safety switch should be included in the installation.
fuel to the suction side of the engine's mechanical
fuel pump. Selection of a quality electric pump that
will provide sufficient volume without restricting
fuel flow is important. Installation should include a
3/8 inch (inside diameter) fuel hose and connection
barbs, an oil-pressure safety switch that will not al-
low the pump to operate if the engine stops running,
and a pressure regulator that will not allow the pump
pressure to exceed 5 psi.
Installing Electric Fuel Pumps The installation procedure
for electric fuel pumps is as follows:
1. Select a suitable mounting location as close
as possible to the fuel tank. The pump must
be mounted below the level of the tank.
2. Make sure the pump and any fuel lines are
not near any exhaust component that would
induce heat into the fuel.
3. Drill mounting holes in the vehicle frame as
recommended in the electric-pump manufac-
turer's instructions.
4. The vehicle's existing fuel line must be cut
and the pump spliced in, using a 3/8 inch fuel
hose and connection barbs. If a pressure
CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.9
regulator is used, it should be installed at the
electric pump's outlet.
5. An oil-pressure-sensitive switch must be in-
stalled in the vehicle's engine. The switch
must be a "normally open" type that closes
the contacts when oil pressure is detected.
This feature will shut the pump off when the
engine has stopped, even though the ignition
key may be in the on position, as might oc-
cur in an accident.
6. Connect a wire of the proper gauge, as rec-
ommended by the pump manufacturer, to
one contact of the switch.
7. Connect another wire with an in-line fuse of
the proper amp rating from the other contact
of the oil-pressure switch to a 12-volt DC
circuit that is energized when the ignition
switch is turned to the ON position.
8. If a pressure regulator is used, a fuel-pressure
gauge connected at the suction side of the me-
chanical pump should be used to set pressure
at 5 psi. Follow the regulator manufacturer's
procedure for setting pressure. It is important
to check pressure at the mechanical pump;
checking pressure at the electric pump and
12.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
regulator will give a false reading. There will
be a pressure drop due to line friction be-
tween the electric and mechanical pumps.
9. Start the engine and check for leaks at all
connections.
Defective Starter and/or Solenoid
Starters seldom are the cause of failure to start,
although some engines have been known to ruin
starters on a regular basis due to exposure to exces-
sive heat, mainly from the exhaust system. If the
starter is suspected, here are the steps to diagnose the
problem:
1. Make sure the battery is fully charged and all
terminal connections are clean and tight. A
starter draws a very high amperage load; a
marginal battery or poor terminal connec-
tions may not produce enough power to
crank the engine.
2. If the starter motor spins but the engine does
not turn over, the problem is in the starter-
drive mechanism or the flywheel ring gear.
3. If the engine cranks slowly, and it is deter-
mined that the battery is fully charged and
has clean, tight terminal connections, the
problem could be caused by excessive engine-
oil viscosity in cold weather. Other causes
may be starter drag caused by a worn starter
motor or a defective starter solenoid.
Troubleshooting the Starter
As underhood temperatures soar, the starter and the
starter solenoid absorb heat. When electrical com-
ponents soak up heat, their internal resistance in-
creases. If the battery cables and connections are not
in perfect condition, the initial power requirement
of a hot starter and solenoid may be more than the
system can deliver. The problem is called, fittingly
enough, "hot start." Battery cables should be the heav-
iest gauge possible, terminals should be kept clean,
and if hot starts have been a problem, the starter
should be replaced with a heavy-duty type that is free
of aluminum parts, which conduct heat at a faster
rate than cast iron and steel.
General Motors vehicles utilize a starter solenoid
relay that is mounted on the starter (Figure 12.12).
This design is especially susceptible to the hot-start
problem. One remedy is to bypass the solenoid and
install a fenderwell-mounted Ford-type relay (Figure
12.13). This removes the relay from the high-heat con-
dition on the starter to a cooler location so that it is
not affected by excessive heat gain.
Installing Spark Plugs
An engine's fuel economy and power potential are
only as good as the spark plugs' ability to ignite the
fuel in the cylinder. Spark plugs are inexpensive, and
their installation is not beyond the abilities of the
do-it-yourselfer, although some engines are shoe-
horned into a very tight compartment, making plug
changing a bit of a chore. Here are the necessary steps:
1. Purchase name-brand plugs that are recom-
mended for the engine year and displace-
ment. Many times this can be found on the
engine emission sticker in the owner's man-
ual or by asking an auto-parts dealer.
2. The engine should be cool.
3. Use only a proper size spark-plug socket to
remove plugs (Figure 12.14).
4. Pull off spark-plug cables by the boots; do
not pull on the cables (Figure 12.15). A tool
called a boot puller is available at auto-parts
stores. Don't use pliers; they will cut the
plug-cable boots, causing electrical leaks. It's
Figure 12.12 General Motors solenoid relay
mounted on starters
 CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.11

Figure 12.14 Use only the proper size spark

Figure 12.13 Fenderwell-mounted Ford-type relay plug socket.

a good idea to mark each cable as to its

proper cylinder location. Failure to return
plug cables to their respective spark plugs
will cause the engine to run roughly or fail
to start.
5. Using compressed air, blow off dirt from
around the spark-plug base (Figure 12.16).
If you don't have a compressed-air source, a
short length of vacuum hose can be aimed
at the plug base while you blow through it.
6. Spark plugs should be gapped to manufac-
turer's specifications. If there is a range of
gap openings recommended, set them to
the narrower setting; the gaps tend to open Figure 12.15 Pull spark-plug cables by the boot,
as the plugs wear. not the cable.
7. Inspect the plug seating surface on the cylin-
der head; any dirt, grease, or debris should
be removed.
8. Thread new plugs into the cylinder head. Be ■ COOLING-SYSTEM SERVICE ■
careful that cross-threading does not occur.
9. Torque plugs as specified by the manufac- The cooling system must be in top shape to perform
turer. Ford recommends 5 to 7 foot-pounds properly. With frequent inspection of hoses and belts
for its 5.8L (351 cid) and 7.5L (460 cid) and a regular coolant-change program, overheating
engines; Chevrolets require 17 to 27 foot- is not likely to occur. Belts and hoses should be in-
pounds for the 5.7L (350 cid) and 7.4L (454 spected frequently and replaced every four years or
cid) engines; Dodge recommends that 26 to 50,000 miles. For most gasoline engines, coolant
30 foot-pounds be used for its 5.9L and 8.0L should be changed every other year or at 20,000
engines. miles. If your RV is diesel-powered, refer to your
10. Install spark-plug cables to the proper owner's manual for specific information on other
spark plugs. additives that may be required to prevent cooling-
12.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 12.16 Before removing spark plugs, clean
the area with compressed air to avoid dirt dropping
into the cylinder.
system damage. These additives are needed in some
applications to prevent pitting of the cylinder liner
walls. Most heavy-duty diesel applications also use
a cooling-system filter. Often the filter element will
have the chemical additives necessary to keep pro-
tection up to the required levels. By simply chang-
ing the filter at the recommended intervals, the
cooling system is protected. Here is how to drain,
flush, and refill the cooling system:
1. Purchase and install a simple backflush de-
vice in the heater hose. This device is found
at most auto-parts facilities and makes cool-
ing-system maintenance easy. It is inexpen-
sive, can be installed permanently in a
heater hose in just a few minutes, and
enables a garden hose to do the flushing.
2. Open the petcock on the bottom of the ra-
diator and allow coolant to start draining.
Collect the coolant for recycling; most serv-
ice stations will accept used coolant.
3. Remove radiator cap (coolant will drain
faster) and inspect the rubber gasket for
defects. If the rubber seal is not soft and
pliable, the cap should be replaced with one
having the proper pressure rating for your
application.
4. Remove the lower radiator hose from the
radiator.
5. Connect a garden hose to the backflush
device and flush the engine block (Figure
12.17).
Figure 12.17 Simple backflushing devices that
utilize garden hoses are available in most auto-
parts stores.
6. Run clean water through the radiator to
flush.
7. Connect the lower radiator hose and re-
move the garden hose from the backflush-
ing device.
8. Consult the owner's manual to determine
the total capacity of the cooling system.
9. Fill 50 percent of the system's capacity with
ethylene glycol coolant; top off to capacity
with water.
10. Run the engine until it reaches full operating
temperature, and recheck the level of the
coolant in the system. WARNING: Use caution when
opening cap. System will be hot. Sometimes it is nec-
essary to "burp" the system to remove
trapped air. This can be done by loosening
the heater-hose clamp at the fitting immedi-
ately behind the thermostat housing. Allow
any air to escape. When you see coolant ap-
pear, retighten the clamp. Add a 50/50 mix-
ture of water/
coolant if you need to top off the system.
■ THE TRANSMISSION ■
The transmission conducts the entire drive force
exerted by the engine to the rear differential assembly
and ultimately to the rear wheels. RV service should be
extensive; whether it is in a motorhome or a tow ve-
hicle, the transmission undergoes a tortuous routine.

Description and Identification of
Transmission Configurations
Transmission configurations found in today's RV ap-
plications include three-speed automatic, four-speed
overdrive automatic, five-speed automatic, six-speed
automatic, four-speed standard shift, five-speed over-
drive standard shift, and six-speed overdrive stan-
dard shift. The vehicle owner's manual will contain
information about the type of transmission, service
requirements, oil change intervals, and type of oil
that should be used.
Because RVs place such heavy demands on the
transmission, the oil should be changed at least every
25,000 miles, whether the transmission is standard
or automatic. Heat is the main enemy of the auto-
matic transmission. An automatic transmission
should be outfitted with either a factory or after-
market external oil cooler that is properly sized ac-
cording to the gross vehicle weight of the motorhome
or gross combined weight of a tow vehicle/trailer.
Standard transmissions do not require oil coolers
because they do not generate excessive heat. Auto-
matic transmissions should not be allowed to run at
temperatures that exceed approximately 250 °F. This
is the highest short-duration temperature under the
worst conditions: heavy loads and hill climbs.
Transmission repair should be left to experts, al-
though the average RVer can perform service routines
at home with a little effort.
Transmission Service and Repair
Although transmission repairs are beyond the capa-
bilities of the backyard mechanic, service is definitely
not. Service neglect is the single largest cause of trans-
mission failure. By changing the oil and filters fre-
quently (25,000-mile intervals), transmission life
can be improved significantly.
Be sure to consult the owner's manual to find the
correct type of lubricant for each particular trans-
mission. There are many different requirements de-
pending on the year, the make, and the model of the
transmission. The use of incorrect fluid can have a
detrimental effect on the operation and life of the
transmission.
CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.13
Changing Automatie-Transmission Fluid
The steps for changing automatic-transmission fluid
are:
1. Determine the refill capacity of the transmis-
sion. Repair and owner's manuals include
these specifications. Most transmissions do
not have a provision for draining the torque
converter. Even though the capacity may be
more than 10 quarts, the most that can be
drained from the pan in a fluid change is
about 4 to 6 quarts.
2. Purchase the proper type and amount of oil
required to do the job, plus an additional
quart. This extra quart is "just in case" and
can be carried in your RV as a spare.
3. Purchase a transmission-pan gasket and new
filter element for the transmission. Many
auto-supply stores sell transmission-oil-
change kits that contain the gasket and filter
plus a set of instructions.
While the transmission is warm, drain by
removing the pan and allowing the fluid to
empty into a large container that will contain
all of the spillage (Figure 12.18).
NOTE: Dispose of used oil properly. Most service stations
will accept used oil for recycling.
5. Remove the old filter element and clean both
gasket surfaces on the pan and the transmis-
sion case (Figure 12.19).
6. Install the new filter element and gasket;
tighten the pan bolts evenly in a crisscross
pattern to prevent distortion of the pan.
7. Refill the transmission with all but one of the
number of quarts recommended.
8. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few
minutes; shift the gear selector through all
gear ranges, then return it to park.
9. Check the oil level on the dipstick. If any is
needed, add only small amounts at a time
until the correct level is attained. Overfilling
the transmission will cause oil to foam
and possibly spew from the dipstick/fill
tube onto hot engine parts, which can cause a
fire.
12.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 12.18 If the transmission pan does not
have a drain plug, it must be removed to allow the
fluid to empty into a bucket.
Changing the Allison Automatic-Transmission Fluid
The Allison MD-3060 six-speed transmission for mo-
torhomes requires a fluid-change interval of 5,000
miles for the first change and every 25,000 miles
thereafter. Use only Dexron II or Dexron III auto-
matic-transmission fluid unless otherwise specified
by the manufacturer.
To check the fluid level:
1. Warm the transmission fluid by running the
vehicle for twenty to thirty minutes.
2. Park on a level pad.
3. Place the transmission in park.
4. Use the dipstick to check the fluid level.
5. Fill in small amounts and wait for five min-
utes between fillings to insure that the trans-
mission is not overfilled.
To change the transmission fluid:
1. Make sure you have a large catch pan for the
fluid! If you only drain the apparent fluid, you
will remove 15 to 16 quarts from the transmis-
sion. However, if you let the transmission
drain for twenty to thirty minutes, you will re-
move 20 to 22 quarts because the torque con-
verter will become partially drained.
2. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of
the transmission.
CAUTION: The transmission fluid will be extremely hot.
Figure 12.19 Remove the old filter element and
clean the gasket surfaces on the pan and the
transmission case.
3. After the fluid has stopped draining from the
transmission pan, remove the six bolts at the
bottom front of the transmission and remove
the filter cover. After removing the transmis-
sion and lube filters, several more quarts will
drain from the transmission.
4. Install new filters and replace the filter cover
and drain plug.
5. Remove the dipstick from the transmission
and pour in 12 quarts of either Dexron II or
Dexron III automatic transmission fluid.
6. Run the engine without driving the vehicle.
Move the transmission gear selector through
the gears several times to allow the torque
converter and valve body to refill with fluid.
Do this for about five minutes.
7. Place the transmission in park and continue
filling the transmission with fluid, a small
amount at a time, until the dipstick reads full.
Changing Standard-Transmission Fluid
The procedure for standard transmissions is much the
same except that refilling will require an oil gun to
force oil into the fill hole in the side of the transmis-
sion. These are available at auto-parts stores.
1. Purchase the correct amount and type of oil
recommended in the owner's manual.
2. Operate the vehicle until the transmission is

warm. (Driving five to ten miles is adequate.)
3. Remove the drain plug in the bottom of the
transmission, allowing the oil to drain into
a container.
4. After draining is complete, install the drain
plug and remove the fill plug on the side of
the transmission.
5. Add the proper amount of oil until it runs
out the bottom of the fill hole.
6. Tighten the fill plug in its hole.
Servicing the Gear Vendors Overdrive
Change the fluid at least every year or at 15,000 miles.
Use only Dexron II or Dexron III automatic-trans-
mission fluid. You may also use GL4-75/80 synthetic
gear lubricant. This is Mopar part number 4637579
or GM part number 1234-6190. Never use "synthetic"
or "extreme pressure" ATF lubricants; never use ad-
ditives such as moly or other "transmission im-
provers" in the Gear Vendors unit.
NOTE: It is up to the user to establish a schedule; it is not
required by Gear Vendors.
To change the fluid:
1. Drive the vehicle for twenty to thirty minutes
to warm the fluid.
2. Place a 2-quart drain pan under the overdrive
unit.
3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of
the unit and wait about five minutes for all
the fluid to drain.
4. Replace the drain plug.
5. Remove the fill plug located on the back
(right side) of the main housing.
6. Using a plunger pump or a transmission
pump, fill the unit with Dexron II or Dexron
III fluid. The flat bottom unit will use
26 ounces and the deep sump model will
use 38 ounces on the first filling and
32 ounces thereafter.
7. When the fluid is level with the bottom of
the fill plug opening, the unit is full. Replace
the plug.
To service the overdrive unit (this should be per-
formed every year or at 10,000 miles):
CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.15
1. Place a 2- to 3-quart drain pan beneath the
overdrive unit.
2. Drain the fluid from the unit.
3. Remove the 6 bolts from the bottom of the
unit and remove the sump. The sump gasket
will usually stay on the overdrive unit.
4. Pull straight down on the suction filter to
remove it. Wash the screen with solvent and
allow it to air dry.
5. The high-pressure filter is located under the
plug on the passenger side of the overdrive
unit. To remove the high-pressure filter, use
a spanner wrench or a small punch and
hammer to turn the plug/cover counter-
clockwise.
6. Wash the filter in solvent and allow to air dry.
7. Install the high-pressure filter and washer.
You may need to replace the washer if it has
become damaged or scored.
8. Replace the plug and tighten to 16 foot-
pounds
9. Install the suction filter; this is a press fit.
10. Inspect the sump gasket and replace it,
if needed.
11. Install sump and secure it with the six bolts
removed in step 3.
12. Replace the drain plug.
Servicing the U.S. Gear Overdrive/Underdrive
Change the fluid once a year with 80/90 weight gear
lubricant. The use of synthetic fluid will allow the
unit to run about 20 °F cooler.
To change the fluid:
1. Drive the vehicle for twenty to thirty minutes
to warm the fluid.
2. Place a 2-quart drain pan under the overdrive
unit.
3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of
the unit and wait about five minutes for all
the fluid to drain.
4. Replace the drain plug.
5. Remove the 3/8 inch fill plug from the passen-
ger side of the unit near the serial number
plate.
6. Use a plunger pump or a transmission pump
12.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE A U T O M A T I C T R A N S M I S S I O N

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Transmission overheats Low fluid level Replenish fluid

Foaming/overfill fluid Lower fluid level
Low engine coolant Replenish coolant
Inadequate oil cooler Install larger cooler
Blocked oil cooler Clear debris
Bent or crimped oil line Repair restriction
Overloaded vehicle Reduce load
Transmission slips Low fluid level Replenish fluid
Fluid level too high Lower fluid level
Dirty fluid and filter Change fluid/filter
Improper linkage adjustment Seek professional help
Improper internal adjustment Seek professional help
Defective internal parts Seek professional help
Shift points incorrect Low fluid level Replenish fluid
Incorrect linkage adjustment Seek professional help
Incorrect internal adjustment Seek professional help
Defective internal parts Seek professional help
Gear fails to engage Low fluid level Replenish fluid
Dirty fluid and filter Change fluid/filter
Improper linkage adjustment Seek professional help
Defective internal parts Seek professional help

to fill the unit with 80/90 weight gear lubri-
cant or with synthetic 85/90 weight gear
lubricant.
7. When the fluid is level with the fill plug
opening, the unit is full.
8. Replace the plug.
■ UNIVERSAL JOINTS ■
Universal joints (U-joints) are the links between the
transmission driveshaft and rear-axle assembly.
U-joints provide a flexible connection and allow the
rear suspension to move up and down, improving the
quality of the ride. Many U-joints are permanently lu-
bricated and require no service. If you need to replace
a U-joint, be sure it is equipped with a grease fitting.
This fitting will allow clean grease to be added, ex-
tending the life of the joint.
Checking the U-Joint
If you suspect a U-joint may be defective, seek pro-
fessional advice. U-joint replacement is not difficult,
but if not done precisely, severe driveline vibration
and possible damage can result. Here is a brief in-
spection/service routine you can perform:
• Every other engine-oil change, check the
driveshaft's U-joints. Make sure the vehicle's
wheels are blocked; grab the driveshaft near
the U-joint, and, using a back-and-forth
motion, check for any play in the assembly.

There should be little or none. Many RVs,
especially motorhomes and long-wheelbase
pickup trucks, will have a two-piece driveshaft
supported by a center bearing mounted in a
rubber collar. The rubber collar will move, giv-
ing a floating action to the driveshaft. This is
normal, but there should be no movement
between the bearing itself and the collar or
driveshaft.
• If the U-joints are fitted with a Zerk grease
fitting, using a grease gun, pump enough ap-
proved chassis lubricant into the U-joint
so that the old grease is expelled past the
seals and fresh grease just starts to appear
(Figure 12.20).
• If your U-joints do not have a grease fitting,
they are not designed to be lubricated.
■ SUSPENSION COMPONENTS ■
In recent years, many of the familiar suspension com-
ponents that required lubrication have been replaced
with permanently lubricated parts (Figure 12.21). All
rear-suspension pivot points are rubber mounted and
require no periodic maintenance. Even in front sus-
pensions, the grease fitting is becoming a thing of the
past. However, most heavy-duty vehicles still equip
the ball joints, tie-rod ends, and control-arm bush-
ings with grease fittings. A good practice is to lube
■TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE S T A N D A R D T R A N S M I S S I O N
Problem Possible Cause
Transmission slips Improper clutch adjustment
Oil on clutch lining
Worn clutch lining
Noise in neutral (clutch engaged) Worn bearings
Low oil level
Noise in neutral (clutch disengaged) Defective throw-out bearing
Low oil level
Noise while driving (all gears) Defective gears/bearings
Noise while driving (selected gear) Defective single gear
Hard shifting Wrong oil in transmission
Improper clutch adjustment
Jumps out of gear Worn syncro-mesh/gears
CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.17
Figure 12.20 Lubing a Zerk fitting in a U joint
with a grease gun
these components at 10,000-mile intervals (Figure
12.22). Most fittings are lubricated until fresh grease
appears at the fitting. This practice forces out old
grease, water, and road debris. You may discover that
tie-rod ends and ball joints have rubber bellows seals
that do not allow grease to escape. If the bellows seem
to contain grease, do not lubricate the fitting; the bel-
lows may rupture if they are too full. This will allow
entry of water and dirt, causing early failure of the
joint. The bellows should appear to have a slight bulge
and feel spongy when depressed with a finger.
Correction
Adjust pedal free-play to 1 to 2 inches
Determine cause of oil
Seek professional help
Seek professional help
Replenish oil
Seek professional help
Replenish oil
Seek professional help
Seek professional help
Replace with correct oil
Adjust clutch
Seek professional help
12.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 12.21 Kingpins (a) or bail joints (b) are used in most suspension configurations in trucks, vans, and
sport-utility vehicles. Ball joints must be greased periodically.

Figure 12.22 Before attaching a grease gun, the Zerk fitting must be wiped clean of all old grease (left).
Lubricate fittings only if the bellows seem low on grease; allowing the bellows to rupture invites water and
dirt contamination.
 CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.19

There are two types of grease suitable for chassis

lubrication. One is a general-purpose chassis grease
that has a lithium base. This dark brown, slightly
translucent grease has a high resistance to water wash-
off and an excellent load-carrying capacity.
A grease with slightly better characteristics is
a lithium-based moly grease. The addition of molyb-
denum disulfide extreme-pressure additives and ox-
idation inhibitors makes this black-colored grease a
good choice for heavily loaded components.

■ REAR DIFFERENTIAL ■

The rear differential assembly consists of a housing

that holds the rear wheel bearings and drive axles,
the ring and pinion gears, and the differential side
gears. The pinion gear is connected to the driveshaft,
and it, in turn, drives the ring gear that connects
the differential side gears to the axles. The side gears
allow one wheel to rotate faster than another during
turning maneuvers so that the tires will not scrub.
The differential housing contains all these parts,
as well as the gear oil that lubricates the entire as-
sembly. Check your owner's manual for the type and
viscosity of gear oil required. A gear oil with an API
(American Petroleum Institute) rating of GL-5 will
meet manufacturer's requirements.
If your vehicle is a pickup, it could be fitted with a
limited-slip differential. This type of differential uses
a clutch assembly connected to the side gears to pro-
vide driving torque to both wheels when slippery con-
ditions are encountered. These differentials normally
require a special gear oil or additive to standard gear
oil to maintain the proper coefficient of friction be-
tween the clutches. Check your vehicle's axle code care-
fully (found on the door panel) and compare it with
the listing in the owner's manual to determine whether
it is a limited-slip variety.
Changing the Differential Oil
Many manufacturers do not make a provision for
draining the differential oil. The oil can only be re-
moved by using a suction gun or by pulling the cover
from the rear of the housing, if it is so equipped. For
RV service, changing the differential oil every 50,000
miles is recommended. Here are the steps:
Figure 12.23 Suction guns are used to extract oil
from differential housings without having to remove
the cover.
1. Purchase enough of the correct grade and
weight oil as noted in your owner's manual.
2. Drive the vehicle until the differential oil is
warmed, about five to ten miles.
3. If there is no removable cover, the oil must
be extracted through the fill hole by a suction
gun. Remove all the oil possible (Figure
12.23).
4. If the cover is removable, you'll need to pur-
chase a gasket to reinstall the cover so that
leaks will not occur. Some manufacturers rec-
ommend sealing the cover with only a bead
of silicone sealant. If this is the case, follow
the sealant maker's instructions carefully.
5. Remove the cover and drain the oil thor-
oughly (Figure 12.24).
6. Clean the cover and housing surfaces so the
new gasket will seal properly (Figure 12.25).
7. Replace the cover with the new gasket (or use
silicone sealant) and tighten bolts evenly in a
crisscross pattern.
8. If an additive for limited-slip is necessary,
12.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 12.24 Remove the differential cover and
drain the oil thoroughly.
Figure 12.25 Clean cover and housing surfaces so
the new gasket will seal properly.
Figure 12.26 Wheel bearings and races (exploded view)
add the proper amount and then refill the
differential until oil is level with the bottom
of the fill hole.
9. Replace the plug.
If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, don't for-
get to service the front differential.
■ WHEEL BEARINGS ■
Wheel bearings consist of precision-ground, hard-
ened-steel, cylindrical rollers that are held together
by a steel cage. These rollers rotate against a set of
hardened-steel races. There is one race installed in the
wheel hub (called the outer race) and one installed in
the center of the roller/cage unit (called the inner race).
It is upon these rollers and races that the entire weight
of the vehicle is carried. The metallurgical quality of
the steels used in bearing construction is of the high-
est quality. Combined with a clean, top-quality-bear-
ing grease or oil, the lifespan of wheel bearings may
exceed that of the vehicle itself (Figure 12.26).
Troubleshooting Wheel Bearings
The first sign that a bearing is failing is a distinct
grinding sound from a wheel assembly. The noise is
usually noticed at low speeds first; as the condition
 CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.21

of the bearing worsens, the noise is also heard at

higher speeds. Wheel-bearing noises can be isolated
from other noises because the sound of a defective
wheel bearing keeps time with the rate of wheel ro-
tation. Some tire defects may also show similar symp-
toms; check the tires for defects before delving into
the wheel-bearing assemblies.
If you suspect a defective wheel bearing, drive only
far enough to have the bearing replaced. Trying to make
it over a few more miles may destroy expensive wheel
hubs, spindles, and brake components.

Servicing and Repairing Wheel Bearings Figure 12.27 Spindle dust cover protects the bear-
ing retainer nut and the locking cotter pin.
A good maintenance program should consist of pe-
riodic cleaning and lubrication (every 50,000 miles).
It is most convenient to perform wheel-bearing main-
tenance at brake inspection or service intervals when
the bearings are removed to service the brakes. Wheel-
bearing service can be done at home by the do-it-
yourselfer equipped with the proper tools. But be
forewarned that access to bearings in motorhomes
and heavy-duty pickups requires removal of heavy
wheels, tires, brake drums, calipers, and rotors.
To service bearings:

1. Jack up the vehicle and use jack stands for

safe support.
2. Remove the wheels and tires from the hub
assembly.
3. If the vehicle is equipped with disc brakes,
the caliper assemblies must be removed to
allow the rotor to be slipped off the spindle.
4. Pull off the spindle dust cover to expose the
bearing retainer nut and the locking cotter
pin (Figure 12.27).
5. Remove the cotter pin and the castle nut,
which will allow the outer wheel bearing
and washer to be removed (Figure 12.28).
Make sure you have a clean rag to put the
bearing on after removal.
6. The brake hub and drum (with the disc
brakes and the rotor) should now come off
with a slight wiggling motion.
7. Turn the drum or rotor upside down on a
clean rag or paper and drive the inner bear-
ing and seal out of the hub with a hard-
wood dowel. (Using a metal device may
Figure 12.28 The cotter pin and castle nut allow
the outer wheel bearing and the washer to be
removed.
damage the bearing beyond repair.) Keep
left-side and right-side bearings with their
respective hubs. A wear pattern develops dif-
ferently on each bearing and matching race;
swapping bearings and races could lead to
early failure.
8. Meticulously clean the bearings, the hub,
the retaining washer, and the dust cap in
cleaning solvent. It's best to clean the bear-
ings separately, in solvent free of grit or
grime (Figure 12.29).
9. Dry the components with a clean, lint-free
rag. Make sure that all solvent is removed
from the bearings since it will dilute the
fresh grease that will be used to pack the
bearings.
12.22 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 12.29 Clean bearings, hub, retaining
washer, and dust cap in a cleaning solvent.
Figure 12.30 Repacking wheel bearings
10. Carefully inspect the bearings and hub races
for any sign of defects. Chips, scratches, and
discoloration warrant replacement of the
bearings.
11. Bearings should be repacked with a top-
quality wheel-bearing grease (Figure 12.30).
Do not use standard chassis lubricants as
they will liquefy at high temperatures gener-
ated by the braking system.
12. To pack the bearings, force grease between
the rollers and the inner-bearing race sur-
face. Place a small amount of grease in the
palm of your hand and force the bearing
side against the grease so that hydraulic
pressure will push the grease between the
rollers. Continue around the entire circum-
ference of the bearing until grease oozes out
the top side. All bearings should be packed
in this manner.
13. Wipe a layer of grease on the inside of the
hub, filling the cavity and covering the bear-
ing races with a light coating. Place the
inner bearing against its race and carefully
install a new grease seal by tapping it
against its seat; use a hardwood block to
prevent damage.
14. Place a light coating of grease on the new
seal lip and install the hub/bearing assem-
bly on the clean spindle.
15. Push the outer bearing into place and install
the retaining washer and nut.
16. Bearing-adjustment methods vary between
manufacturers. If you use the following
method (General Motors), it will work for
virtually all vehicles:
a. Tighten the castle nut to 12 foot-
pounds while turning the wheel assem-
bly forward by hand to fully seat the
bearings. This will remove excess grease
from between the rollers that could
cause excessive wheel-bearing play later.
b. Back off the castle nut until you reach
the "just-loose"position.
c. Hand tighten the castle nut. Loosen
the castle nut until either hole lines up
with a slot in the castle nut (no more
than half a flat).
d. Install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends
of the cotter pin against the castle nut.
Cut off any extra length so the ends
will not interfere with the dust cap.
e. Measure the looseness of the hub
assembly. There will be from .001 to
.005 inches of end play when properly
adjusted.
f. Install the dust cap on the hub.
17. Reinstall the tires and wheels, torquing the
lug nuts to the factory-recommended specifi-
cation. After driving forty or fifty miles, check
the nuts again; loose lug nuts can cause
wheel damage and possible wheel loss.
18. Torque values for studs are generally as fol-
 CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.23

lows; check your owner's manual for spe-
cific torque recommendations and follow
them precisely:
■ 1/2 inch studs: 75 to 100 foot-pounds
■ 9/16 inch studs (single wheels): 115 to
130 foot-pounds
■ 9/16 inch studs (dual wheels): 110 to
140 foot-pounds
■ 5/8 inch studs: 125 to 180 foot-pounds
■ 3/4 inch studs: 200 foot-pounds
■ TIRES ■
Tires are a marvel of today's engineering and man-
ufacture. When you consider the job the tire must
do—support weight, provide traction, stability, and
a safe, smooth ride—it's a wonder they survive as
well as they do. Tires are easy to maintain; you get
a report of their condition every time you look at
them. This allows you to spot trouble early.
Tire Size: The section width, aspect ratio, speed rat-
ing for some automotive applications, construction
type (radial or bias), and the wheel-rim diameter.
Load Range: A letter-identification system declares the
load-carrying capacity; maximum recommended in-
flation pressure and maximum load in pounds are
stated.
D.0.T Certification: This simply means that the tire is
certified as being built to Department of Trans-
portation standards. Adjacent to this is the tire's se-
rial number, which, in code, describes the location
and date of manufacture.
M+S rating: If the letters M+S are molded to the side-
wall, this means the tire meets specifications that qual-
ify it as combination highway, mud, and snow tire.

Reading Your Tires

A tire's sidewall contains a wealth of information.

Read the details that must appear on every tire by
law to determine if the tire is right for your applica-
tion. Tires are constructed in one of three ways: a bias
ply, a bias/belted ply, and belted radial-ply con-
struction. Nearly all tires fitted as original equipment
today are of radial construction with steel belts.
Each type has its advantages and disadvantages.
A bias-ply tire has a stiff, strong sidewall but has a
higher resistance to rolling; it does not contribute to
fuel economy. A bias/belted tire is an improvement
over the straight bias version because belts of either
polyester or steel add a protective layer to help pro-
tect against road-hazard damage. The belts also sta-
bilize the tread surface, allowing for slightly better
wear characteristics. Radial-belted tires offer less
rolling resistance, which increases overall fuel econ-
omy and performance. The belts surrounding the
plies serve to protect them from puncture damage.
But radials lack the sidewall strength and stiffness of
bias-ply tires, making the sidewalls more vulnerable Figure 12.31 Load-rating designation and weight
to damage. ratings in pounds and air pressure are marked on
The following information is contained on the the sidewalls of all tires (top). Tire size is clearly
sidewall of every tire (Figure 12.31): marked on the sidewalls (bottom).
12.24 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE T I R E S

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Wear bars showing Tread worn to unsafe level Replace tires

Wearing on inside Negative camber alignment Align, increase camber
Worn ball joints Inspect and replace
Worn A-arm bushings Inspect and replace
Wearing on outside Positive camber alignment Align, reduce camber
Worn ball joints Inspect and replace
Worn A-arm bushings Inspect and replace
Underinflation Increase tire pressure
Wearing in center Overinflation Reduce tire pressure
Cupping or scalloping Worn shock absorbers Replace
Worn ball joints Inspect and replace
Worn A-arm bushings Inspect and replace
Worn steering components Inspect and replace
Out-of-round tire Check and replace tire
Out-of-round rim Check and replace rim
Imbalanced tire Balance tires
Grabbing brakes Repair brakes
Inaccurate wheel-bearing adjustment Check and adjust
Feathering in wear pattern Improper toe-in Align front end
Bent suspension component Inspect and replace
Bulging in sidewall Hitting road obstacles Replace tire
Manufacturing defect Replace tire
Shaking Improper balance Balance tires
Out-of-round tire Replace tire
Bent wheel rim Replace rim
Worn suspension parts Inspect and replace
Inaccurate wheel-bearing adjustment Adjust bearings
Worn shock absorbers Replace shocks
Hard/uneven steering Low tire pressure Inflate to correct psi
Incorrect front-wheel alignment Align properly
Worn suspension components Inspect and replace
Vehicle wandering Uneven tire pressure Inflate to correct psi
Incorrect alignment Align properly
Worn suspension parts Inspect and replace
Vehicle overload to one side Balance vehicle load

■ TROUBLESHOOTING
THE T I R E S , c o n t i n u e d
Problem Possible Cause
Squealing Low inflation pressure
Misalignment
Differential problem
Wrong load-range tire
Defective suspension parts
Losing air Puncture
Defective valve-stem seal
Tire bead not seated
Corroded internal rim
Flawed tire
Dirty rim flanges
Tire Service and Repair
Tire service and repair should not be attempted by
the amateur; your safety is at risk with less-than-per-
fect tire repairs. But the do-it-yourselfer can perform
two important tasks:
1. Regular tire inspections for irregular wear pat-
terns, defects, and inflation pressures.
2. Perform tire rotation at 10,000-mile intervals.
Inflation pressures should be checked a least once
a month, more often if the vehicle is used on a daily
basis. The pressure in your tires should be matched to
the load of the vehicle without exceeding the load rat-
ing or inflation pressure on the sidewall of the tires.
The best way to determine the load is by weigh-
ing your vehicle. Motorhomes often operate at near
(and some over) the chassis gross vehicle weight rat-
ing (GVWR). If, in weighing the vehicle, one deter-
mines that a tire is overloaded, change to a tire of
proper load range (the wheel must be rated to han-
dle the capacity of the tire). If the tire is within its ca-
pacity rating, inflation should be set to match the
load (See Tables 12.1 through 12.7, pages 12.27
through 12.31).
Inflation pressures should be checked and/or
changed only when the tires are cold. A tire's pres-
sure may climb 5 to 10 psi after driving some dis-
CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.25
■
Correction
Inflate tires
Align properly
Inspect differential
Check and correct
Inspect and replace
Inspect and repair
Replace valve stem
Reseat bead
Replace rim
Replace tire
Clean or replace rim
tance since heat causes the air to expand; measuring
pressure in a hot tire will give erroneous readings.
Never bleed air from a hot tire; it will then be oper-
ating in an underinflated condition. Light-truck tires
with the LT designation stamped on the sidewall may
be overinflated up to 10 psi over the manufacturer's
recommendation.
A quick walkaround inspection should be made
each day before the vehicle is driven. Check tires
for odd wear patterns, sidewall defects, foreign ob-
jects that may be embedded in the tread, abrasions,
and any other damage that may have occurred in the
previous day's driving. By making this a regular habit,
you'll avoid roadside tire failures.
Tire rotation is valuable in maximizing tire life.
Different wear patterns develop, depending on the
service the tire receives. (Drive tires develop patterns
that differ from steering tires.) The rotation pattern
will depend on the type of tire with which your RV
is equipped. It's best to consult the owner's manual
for your particular vehicle/chassis for specific rec-
ommendations regarding tire rotation (Figure 12.32).
Tire Maintenance
It's important to keep your tires clean and protected
from the sun and other harmful elements. Although
trailer tires, stamped with an ST (Table 12.1), have
12.26 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 12.32 Rotating tires on a regular basis can extend the life of your tires and add driving comfort to
your vehicle. Tires need not remain in their original direction of rotation in every application.

compounds that protect the rubber from the elements,
they should be covered when the trailer/fifth-wheel is
in storage or parked in camp for an extended time.
The same holds true for motorhome and tow-vehi-
cle tires. If you are going to use a protectant on the
tlres, make sure the product does not contain petro-
leum distillates. Tires covered or treated with a pro-
tectant will have a longer service life and resist cracking
or crazing. Tires older than seven years should be dis-
carded, regardless of tread condition.
 CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.27

Table 12.1 Special Trailer Tire Load-Ratings for Normal Highway Service
Load Limits (pounds per tire) at Various Cold-inflation Pressures
TIRE SIZE 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65
6.00-13 ST 570 675 765 855 935(B) 1010 1080 1150(C)
6.50-13 ST 650 770 875 975 1065(B) 1150 1235 1150(C)
7.00-13 ST 715 845 965 1075 1065(B) 1270 1360 1150(C)
6.45-14 ST 630 745 850 945 1065(B) 1120 1200 1150(C)
7.35-14 ST 755 895 1020 1135 1065(B) 1345 1440 1150(C)
7.75-14 ST 830 980 1120 1245 1065(B) 1475 1580 1150(C)
3.25-14 ST 895 1060 1210 1345 1065(B) 1590 1705 1150(C)
8.55-14 ST 980 1155 1320 1465 1065(B) 1735 1860 1150(C)
6.85-15 ST 690 815 925 1030 1130(B) 1220 1310 1390(C)
7.35-15 ST 780 920 1050 1170 1280(B) 1385 1480 1575(C)
7.75-15 ST 830 985 1120 1245 1365(B) 1475 1580 1680(C)
8.25-15 ST 905 1070 1220 1355 1485(B) 1615 1720 1825(C)
8.55-15 ST 990 1170 1330 1480 1620(B) 1755 1880 2000(C) 2115 2225 2330(D)
8.85-15 ST 1035 1220 1390 1550 1695(B) 1835 1965 2090(C)

Note: Letters in parentheses indicate load range for which boldface loads are maximum.

Table 12.2 Tire and Rim Association Ratings, Flotation-Type Light-Truck Tires
Tire Load Limits (lbs) at Various Minimum Cold-Inflation Pressures (PSI)
Radial Ply
25 30 35 40 45 50
Diagonal (Bias) Ply
TIRE SIZE 20 25 30 35 40 45

31x10.50*15LT 1400 1595 1775(B) 1945 2100 2250(C)

31x11.50*15LT 1455 1660 1845(B) 2020 2185 2340(C)
32x11.50*15LT 1575 1795 1995(B) 2185 2360 2530(C)
33xl2.50*15L? 1755(B) 2000 2225(C)
35x12.50* 15LT 2015 2295 2555(C)

Indicates position where R (radial ply) or B (bias ply) designation will appear— -i.e., 31 x 10.50R15LT.
Letters and boldfaced tire load values indicate tire load ranges B through C.

Table 12.3 Michelin Motorhome Tire-Load Ratings, Loads per Axle

Tire-Load Limits (lbs) at Various Minimum Cold-Inflation Presssures (PSI)2 Tires —Single; 4 Tires = Dual
TIRE SIZE 55 60 65 70D 75F 80F 85F 90F 95
*225/70R19.5 Dual 9290 9820 10,360 10,880 11,440 12,000 12,460 12,980 13,660
Single 4950 5230 5510 5790 6080 6390 6630 6900 7280

**8R19.5 Dual 9150 9770 10,390 10,800 11,475 12,200 12,825 13,500
Single 4710 5035 5365 5600 5950 6340 6650 7000

’XRV Tire
**XZA Tire
Table 12.4 Tire and Rim Association Ratings
Tire-Load Limits (lbs) at Various Minimum Cold-Inflation Presssures (PSI)
Radial Ply
35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80
Diagonal (Bias) Ply
TIRE SIZE USAGE 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75
Dual 1 145 1260 1365 1520(C)
11205/75*15 1500 1655(C)
Single 1260 1385
Dual 1225 1340 1460 1610(C) 1680 1785 1930(D)
LT215/75*15 1475 1605 1765(C) 1845 1960 2095(D)
Single 1345
Dual 1315 1440 1565 1710(C) 1800 1915 1985(D)
LT225/75*15
Single 1445 1585 1720 1875(C) 1980 2105 2205(D)
Dual 1390 1530 1660 1820(C) 1910 2035 2150(D) 2265 2375 2535(E)
LT235/75*15 2755(E)
Single 1530 1680 1825 1985(C) 2100 2235 2335(D) 2490 2610
Dual 1575 1730 1880 2040(C)
IT255/75*15
Single 1730 1900 2065 2270(C)
Dual 1365 1500 1630 1765(C) 1875 1995 2150(D) 2220 2330 2470(E)
IT225/75*16 2680(E)
Single 1500 1650 1790 1940(C) 2060 2190 2335(D) 2440 2560
Dual 1545 1695 1845 2006(C) 2125 2255 2381(D) 2515 2640 2778(E)
LT245/75*16 2623(D) 3042(E)
Single 1700 1865 2030 2205(C) 2335 2480 2765 2900
Dual 1740 1910 2075 2270(C) 2390 2540 2755(D) 2825 2965 3085(E)
LT265/75*16 3415(E)
Single 1910 2100 2280 2470(C) 2625 2790 3000(D) 3105 3260
Dual 1940 2130 2310 2535(C) 2660 2830 3000(D)
LT285/75*16 3305(D)
Single 2130 2340 2540 2755(C) 2925 3110
Dual 1360 1490 1625 1765(C) 1865 1985 2150(D) 2210 2320 2470(E)
LT21 5/85*16 2680(E)
Single 1495 1640 1785 1940(C) 2050 2180 2335(D) 2430 2550
Dual 1545 1700 1845 2006(C) 2125 2260 2381 (D) 2515 2645 2778(E)
LT235/85*16 3042(E)
Single 1700 1870 2330 2205(C) 2335 2485 2623(D) 2765 2905
Dual 1745 1920 2085 2270(C) 2400 2555 2755(D)
LT255/85*16 3000(D)
Single 1920 2110 2290 2470(C) 2635 2805
Dual 1190 1310 1420 1520(C) 1620 1715 1800(D) 1870 1960 2040(E)
7.50*15LT 1610 1720(C 1830 1940 2140(D) 2130 2220 2320(E)
Single 1350 1480
Dual 1430 1565 1690 1815(C) 1930 2040 2140(D) 2245 2345 2440(E)
7.50*16LT 2060(C) 2190 2310 2440(D) 2560 2670 2780(E)
Single 1620 1770 1930

Indicates position where R (radial ply) or B (bias ply) designation will appear—i. e., LT215/85R16.
Letters and boldfaced tire-load values indicate tire-load ranges C through E.
Table 12.5 Tire and Rim Association Ratings
Tire-Load Limits (lbs) at Various Minimum Cold-Inflation Presssures (PSI)
TIRE SIZE USAGE 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 no 115 120
Dual 2600(D) 2720 2860 3000(E) 3115 3245 3415(F) 3490 3615 3750(G)
225/70R19.5
Single 2755(D) 2895 3040 31 95(E) 3315 3450 3640(F) 3715 3845 3970(G)
Dual 3415 3515 3655 3860(D) 3940 4075 4300(G) 4345 4540(H)
245/70R19.5 Single 3640 3740 3890 4080(D) 4190 4335 4540(G) 4620 4805(H)
Dual 3750 3930 4095 4300 4405 4415 4675(G)
265/70R19.5 Single 3970 4180 4355 4540 4685 4850 5070(G)
Dual 4540 4670 4860 5070 5230 5410 5675(H) 5770 6005(J)
305/70R19.5
Single 4940 5130 5340 5510 5745 5945 6175(H) 6340 6610(J)
Dual 3970 4110 4275 4410 4455 4610 4675(G) 4915 5070(H)
Single 4190 4370 4550 4675 4895 5065 5205(G) 5400 5510(H)
Dual 5840 6025 6235 6610 6640 6940(J)
305/75R22.5
Single 6395 6620 6850 7160 7300 7610(J)
Dual 5355 5550 5780 6005 6215 6435 6780(H)
Single 5840 6100 6350 6610 6830 7070 7390(H)

Radial Ply
70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 no 115 120
Diagonal (Bias) Ply
TIRE SIZE USAGE 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Dual 3465 3615 3765 3915 4055 4195 4300(G)
245/75*R22.5
Single 3470 3645 3810 3975 4140 4300 4455 4610 4675(G)
Dual 3870 4040 4205 4370 4525 4685 4805(G)
265/75*22.5 Single 4070 4440
3875 4255 4620 4800 4975 5150 5205(G)
Dual 4500 4690 4885 5070(F) 5260 5440 5675(E) 5795 6005(H)
295/75*22.5
Single 4500 4725 4945 5155 5370 5510(F) 5780 5980 6175(G) 6370 6610(H)
Dual 4540 4740 4930 5205(F) 5310 5495 5675(G) 5860 6175(H)
285/75*24.5
Single 4545 4770 4990 5210 5420 5675(F) 5835 6040 6175(G) 6440 6780(H)

*indicates position where R (radial ply) or B (bias ply) designation will appear—i. e., 225/70R19.5.
Letters and boldfaced tire-load values indicate tire-load ranges D through J.
Table 12.6 Tire and Rim Association Ratings
Tire-Load Limits (lbs) at Various Minimum Cold-Inflation Pressures (PSI)
Radial Ply
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 no 115 120
Diagonal (Bias) Ply
TIRE SIZE USAGE 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 no 115
Dual 2230 2350 2460(D) 2570 2680 2780(E) 2880 2980 3070(F)
8*19.5
Single 2270 2410 2540 2680 2800(D) 2930 3060 3170(E) 3280 3400 3500(F)
Dual 2490 2620 2750(D) 2870 2990 3100(E) 3210 3320 3450(F)
8*22.5 3140(D) 3530(E) 3910(F)
Single 2530 2680 2840 2990 3270 3410 3660 3780
Dual 2960 3120 3270 3410 3550(E) 3690 3820 3950(F) 4070 4200 4320(G)
9*22.5 Single 3010 3190 3370 3560 3730 3890 4050(E) 4210 4350 4500(F) 4640 4790 4920(G)
Dual 3510 3690 3870 4040(E) 4200 4360 4520(F) 4670 4820 4970(G)
10*22.5 Single 3560 3770 4000 4010 4410 4610(E) 4790 4970 5150(F) 5320 5490 5670(D)
Dual 4380 4580 4760(F) 4950 5120 5300(G) 5470 5630 5800(H)
11*22.5 Single 4530 4770 4990 5220 5430(F) 5640 5840 6040(G) 6240 6430 6610(H)
Dual 4660 4870 5070(F) 5260 5450 5640(G) 5820 6000 6170(H)
11*24.5
Single 4820 5070 5310 5550 5780(F) 6000 6210 6430 6630 6840 7030(H)
Dual 4780 4990 5190(F) 5390 5590 5780(G) 5960 6150 6320(H)
12*22.5
Single 4940 5200 5450 5690 5920(F) 6140 6370 6590(G) 6790 7010 7200(H)
Dual 5080 5300 5520(F) 5730 5940 6140(G) 6330 6530 6720(H)
12*24.5 Single 5240 5520 5790 6040 6290(F) 6530 6770 7000(G) 7220 7440 7660(H)

Indicates position where R (radial ply) or B (bias ply) designation will appear—i.e., 8R19.5.
Letters and boldfaced tire-load values indicate tire-load ranges D through H.
 CHAPTER 12 Drivetrain Systems 12.31

Table 12.7 Tire and Rim Association Ratings, Trailer Tires

Tire-Load Limits (lbs) at Various Minimum Cold-Inflation Presssures (PSI)

TIRE SIZE 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65
ST155/80* ** ***13 540 640 740 815 880(B) 970 1040 1100(C)
ST175/80*13 670 795 905 1000 1100(B) 1190 1270 1360(C)
ST185/80*13 740 870 990 1100 1200(B) 1300 1400 1480(C)
ST205/75M4 860 1030 1170 1300 1430(B) 1530 1640 1760(C)
ST215/75*14 935 1110 1270 1410 1520(B) 1660 1790 1870(C)
ST205/75*15 905 1070 1220 1360 1480(B) 1610 1720 1820(C)
ST225/75*15 1060 1260 1430 1600 1760(B) 1880 2020 2150(C) 2270 2380 2540(D)
ST215/80*16 1090 1300 1480 1640 1820(B) 1940 2080 2200(C) 2340 2470 "2600(D)
ST235/80*16 1270 1510 1720 1920 2090(B) 2270 2430 2600(C) 2730 2870 ***3000(D)

*indicates position where R (radial ply) or B (bias ply) designation will appear—i.e., ST155/80R13.
**Load range E/2910 lbs. @ 80 psi.
***Load range E/3420 lbs. @ 80 psi.
Letters and boldfaced tire-load values indicate tire-load ranges B through D.
12.32 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
 ■ CHAPTER 13 ■
DIESEL SERVICE
The diesel engine is by far one of the easiest engines
to maintain. Since, by design, the air/fuel
mixture is compression ignited, there are no spark
plugs, cables, points, distributors or coils to main-
tain. Simple routine maintenance of the lubrication,
fuel, air, and cooling systems (valve adjustments for
some engines) is all that is required. There are three
major diesel engine suppliers to the North Ameri-
can RV industry (Caterpillar, Cummins, and Navis-
tar). Following simple procedures will provide your
RV's engine with a long and healthy lifespan.
■ CATERPILLAR 3126B, HEUI ■
Lubrication System
The oil and filter change recommendation for most
RV applications is every 8,000 miles or one year, which
ever comes first. However, the following should be
considered: Introduced by Caterpillar in 1971, the S-
O-S program is represented as the world's leading
oil analysis program for diesel engines. Caterpillar rec-
ommends protecting your investment by using a
scheduled fluid sampling program. Not a new tech-
nology, oil analysis has been used since the 1950s to
determine the service intervals in both military and
commercial jet aircraft. Oil analysis (see table 13-1)
not only determines the useful service life of the lu-
bricant, but provides a look into the general mechanical
condition of the engine as well. Use of the Caterpil-
lar S-O-S fluid analysis will help you to optimize your
change intervals. Consult your owner's manual to de-
termine sampling intervals. Contact your local Cater-
pillar dealer for the location of the lab nearest you.
Oil Specifications
• SAE 10W-30 and/or 15W-40 (preferred) that meets
or exceeds an API rating of CG-4/SH.
• Single-grade oils must not be used.
• Synthetic oils may be used, provided that they meet
or exceed the foregoing API specification.
Oil Filter Specifications
• Caterpillar part number 1R0739
Fuel System
Diesel fuels that meet the specifications as identified
as No.l-D or as No.2-D in "ASTM D975" usually
meet Caterpillar requirements. Fuel additives are not
generally recommended; however, cetane improvers
may be used for direct-injected engines (including
the 3126B) where fuel has a cetane rating below 40,
and biocides may be needed to eliminate microor-
ganism growth in tanks that are stored for periods
of time (usually a month or more). Caterpillar rec-
ommends that fuel tanks be stored "topped off."
Should the "water in fuel" light come on, drain the
water from the system following the procedure out-
lined in your owner's manual.
Fuel Filter Recommendations
• Caterpillar part number 1R0351
Racor WIN 200200 fuel separator (on most RV
chassis)
Air Intake System
Most modern air intake systems use some form of
 13.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Table 13.1 Sample oil analysis from CTC Analytical Services.

I

Fig. 13.1 Filter indicators, like this one from Dodge
are used to monitor condition of air filter.
a "filter minder" to indicate the condition of the air
filter (Figure 13-1). Caterpillar uses the Cat Air Fil-
ter Service Indicator and recommends following the
system's display to prevent over or under-servicing
your engine's air filter. Because there are numerous
air intake configurations, it is recommended you fol-
low your RV manufacturer's recommendation for fil-
ter change interval and type.
Cooling System
Caterpillar recommends servicing the cooling sys-
tem as follows:
• CAT Extended Life Coolant (ELC) every 6,000
hours or 4 years, whichever comes first.
• CAT Diesel Engine Antifreeze/Coolant (DEAC)
every 3,000 hours or 2 years, whichever comes first.
• Commercial heavy duty coolant/antiffeeze 3,000
hours or 1 year, whichever comes first.
Coolant Specifications
If CAT ELC or DEAC are not used, select a heavy-duty
coolant/antifreeze with a low silicate content that
meets ASTM D4985 or ASTM D5345. When a com-
mercial heavy-duty coolant/antifreeze is used, the
system must be treated with Caterpillar Supplemental
Coolant Additive (SCA). SCA effectively prevents cor-
rosion on all metals, prevents the formation of min-
eral deposits and prevents cavitation erosion of the
cylinder liner. SCA also aids in the elimination of
coolant foaming.
CHAPTER 13 Diesel Service 13.3
Testing Coolant Concentration
The SCA concentration and glycol level should be
tested at every oil change. The Caterpillar S-O-S
Coolant Analysis is the recommended system for op-
timizing coolant life. The recommended glycol level
testis conducted with 1U-7298 Coolant Tester Group
(SC) or with the 1U-7297 coolant tester group (SF).
Consult your Caterpillar dealer for information on
coolant testers. Never mix extended-life coolants with
CAT ELC, use only Caterpillar Extender.
■ CUMMINS ISB AND ISC 24 VALVE ■
Lubrication System
The recommended oil drain interval for ISB and
ISC RV engine applications is 15,000 miles or 1 year,
whichever comes first. The recommended oil drain
interval for Dodge/ISB applications is 7,500 miles or
1 year, unless your use falls in the severe service cat-
egory which include any of the following: towing,
stop and go traffic, extended use on dirt roads. For
these conditions, the interval is reduced to 3,000
miles.
Oil Specification For ISB and ISC Engines
(Figure 13.2)
• SAE 15W-40 that meets or exceeds an API rating of
CG-4/SG.
• Synthetic oils may be used, provided that they meet
the foregoing specification.
• Break-in oils should not be used.
ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY GRADES
°F -10° 0° 10° 20° 30°
°C -23° -18° -12° -7° -1°
Temperature range anticipated before next oil change
Fig. 13.2 Cummins engine oil viscosity recommen-
dations
13.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
• Supplemental oil additives, such as friction-reducers
are not required and should not be used.
Oil Filter Specifications
• Fleetguard LF 3729 for ISB applications
• Mopar 04746914 for ISB Dodge applications
• Fleetguard LF 3000 for ISC applications
The use of aftermarket oil filters should be sup-
ported by documentation from the manufacturer, in
writing, stating the products meets or exceeds the
Cummins Engine Company's specifications.
Fuel System
Fuels meeting ASTM D975 and defined as No. 1-D
or No. 2-D are acceptable. Consult your owner's man-
ual. The fuel filters should be changed at every oil
change or sooner, should contaminates become pres-
ent in the fuel system. Should the "water in fuel" light
come on, drain the water from the system following
procedure outlined in your owner's manual.
Fuel Filter Recommendations
• Fleetguard FS 1262 for top load cartridge ISB ap-
plications
• Fleetguard FS 19519 for spin-on ISB applications
• Fleetguard FS 1022 for spin-on ISC applications
(Figure 13-3)
Fig. 13.3 Cummins RV fuel separator.
Fig. 13.4 Racor fuel separator, RV application.
• Cummins P/N 3944269 for spin-on ISC applica-
tions
• Aftermarket or supplemental "fuel/water separa-
tors" may be added in RV applications; refer to
your owner's manual. (Figure 13-4)
Air Intake System
Most modern air intake systems are using some form
of a "filter minder" to indicate the condition of the
air filter's ability to continue service life. It is designed
to be used as a quick check reference guide only. Be-
cause there are numerous air intake configurations,
it is recommended to follow your RV manufacturer's
or the vehicle/chassis recommendation as applica-
ble for filter change interval and type.
Cooling System
Routine cooling system maintenance recommenda-
tions for ISB and ISC RV engines include:
• Check the fluid every 15,000 miles or 6 months,
whichever occurs first.
• Drain and flush cooling system every 60,000 miles
or 2 years, whichever occurs first.
• In the ISB Dodge application, the change interval
is 30,000 miles or 2 years, whichever occurs first.
• Periodic inspection of the coolant pump's weep
hole for blockage is also recommended.
Coolant Specifications
A combination of 50/50 water and low silicate an-
tifreeze (ethylene glycol or propylene glycol are ac-

ceptable). Protection to minus 34 degrees F is re-
quired. Antifreeze must meet ASTM D4985
(GM6038M) specifications. In ISC applications only,
supplemental coolant additive (SCA) is required. The
additive provides added protection against cavita-
tion erosion, which is only a concern in engines with
cylinder liners; ISB engines are not of this design.
Cummins offers "preformulated" antifreeze sold as
Fleetguard Complete, which offers the convenience
of a pre-mixed antifreeze solution that contains high
quality water and the correct chemical balance of an-
tifreeze. For ISC applications, the pre-mixed formula
also contains the required SCA.
Testing Coolant Concentration
Cummins recommends using Refractormeter Fleet-
guard No. C2800 for ISB and ISC applications, which
are available at your Cummins distributor. Floating
ball type testers are not considered to be accurate.
■ FORD POWER STROKE, NAVISTAR 7.3 DI ■
Lubrication System
Ford states that it is important to change the oil at
the recommended intervals, because the engine oil
is also used to actuate the fuel injectors. Extended
oil change intervals may negatively affect engine per-
formance. The recommended oil drain interval for
Power Stroke engine applications is 5,000 miles or
1 year, whichever comes first. If your use falls in the
Fig. 13.5 Ford engine oil viscosity recommendations
CHAPTER 13 Diesel Service 13.5
severe service category which include any of the fol-
lowing: towing, stop and go traffic, extended use on
dirt roads, the interval is reduced to 3,000 miles or
3 months, whichever comes first.
Oil Specifications (Figure 13-5)
• SAE 15W-40 API CG-4/SH is preferred in temper-
ature ranges 10 F to higher than 100 F.
• SAE10W-30 API CG-4/SH may be used in temper-
ature ranges minus 10 F to 90 F.
• SAE 5W-30 API CG-4/SH may be used in temper-
ature ranges minus 20 F to 30 F.
• SAE 0W-30 API CG-4/SH may be used in temper-
ature ranges colder than minus 20 F to 0 F.
• Synthetic oils may be used, provided they meet the
foregoing specification.
• Break-in oils and oil additives should not be used.
Oil Filter Specifications
• Ford oil filter F4TZ-6731-A (FL-1995) or equiva-
lent may be used
Figure 13.6 Ford F-series Super Duty fuel filter
replacement.
13.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

_____________________________TIPS FOR FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT__________________________

■ Park on level ground and apply parking brake.

■ Place a drip pan or some form of protection under the fuel filter area. Clean any ground spills immediately. Diesel fuel will damage
asphalt roads and driveways.
■ Remove old fuel filter (Caterpillar, Cummins RV and pre 1998 Dodge applications use "spin-on" type filters, 1998 and later Dodge, and
Ford Power Stroke applications use cartridge type filters).
■ Disconnect the "water-in-filter" wires/connector from old filter bodies and carefully clean (with lint-free cloth) filter cartridge, and water
inspection Lexan bowls where applicable.
■ Remove old O-rings and gaskets.
■ Apply a thin film of diesel fuel to ail new gaskets and O-rings.
■ Place cartridge in filter canister and fill with clean fuel or fill spin-on type filter with clean fuel.
■ Install new filter assembly.
■ Reconnect "water-in-filter" wire/connector.
■ Dodge/Cummins mechanical fuel systems (non ISB and ISC) will require manual priming of the fuel system by depressing and releasing
the manual lift pump (black rubber button located below the fuel filter assembly). See your owner's manual.
■ Electronically controlled engines (Caterpillar, Cummins, and Power Stroke) will automatically purge trapped air as the engine runs. The
engine will run roughly and smoke until the air is completely eliminated.

TIPS FOR OIL CHANGING

■ Used engine oil and oil filters are regulated substances requiring proper disposal. Check with your local authorities to determine the dis-
posal regulations for your area. Clean any ground spills immediately.
■ Check your owner's manual for your engine's oil capacity accounting for by-pass or other changes.
■ Make sure the capacity of your drain container will accommodate your engine's crankcase capacity.
■ Have new oil, oil filter, drain plug seal, rags, the proper size wrenches and drain container, prior to starting.
■ Operate the engine until engine coolant reaches the normal operating temperature. Drive the vehicle rather than just letting it idle (see
Excessive Idle, Page 13.8).
■ Make sure the vehicle is parked on level ground and the parking brake is applied.
■ Position the drain container under the drain plug, remove plug and drain into the container.
■ Remove the spin-on oil filter (a filter wrench may be required) and empty contents into drain container.
■ Apply a thin film of oil or lightweight grease to the new oil filter's gasket.
■ Fill the new oil filter with fresh oil. Allow time for the new oil to seep into the filter media and refill as required. To avoid spilling, do not
fill to the top of the filter.
■ Using caution not to "cross thread," spin on the new oil filter, following the manufacturer's directions, tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn past the ini-
tial gasket contact, then back off 1/3 turn.
■ Replace the oil pan drain plug and seal or gasket; tighten to manufacture's recommended torque specification.
■ Fill engine with fresh oil.
■ Check that all tools, rags, are removed from the engine area, then start the engine.
■ Watch for oil pressure to come to the normal idle range within a few seconds, if not SHUT OFF THE ENGINE.
■ With oil pressure at the normal idle range, check filter and drain plug for leaks.
■ Bring the engine to the normal operating temperature.
■ Shut engine down. Allow five minutes for oil to drain back and recheck engine oil level with vehicle on level ground.
■ Top off as required.
 CHAPTER 13 Diesel Service 13.7

Fuel System Cooling System

The engine is designed to use low sulfur No. 1-D or
No. 2-D diesel fuel only. At temperatures colder than
20 degrees F, No. 1-D or winter blend No. 2-D fuel
is recommended. Do not use fuels intended for agri-
cultural use (red dye fuel) or any diesel fuel not in-
tended for highway use. It is not necessary to add any
aftermarket additives to your fuel, provided the fuel
used meets the ASTM D975 specification. Water
should be drained every 5,000 miles and the fuel fil-
ter replaced every 15,000 miles or one year, whichever
comes first.
Ford recommends a coolant mixture of 50 per-
cent water and 50 percent coolant, meeting the
Ford coolant specification, along with 4 pints of
FW-15 additive. Depending on your use, Ford rec-
ommends flushing and changing coolant every
50.000 miles or 4 years, whichever occurs first, or
30.000 miles or 3 years, whichever occurs first.
Check your owner's manual to verify your duty
application.
Coolant Specifications

Fuel Filter Recommendations (Figure 13.6)

Coolants which meet the following specifications
• Motorcraft FD-4596 may be used:
• Ford number ESE-M97B44-A
• Ford F81Z-9N184-AA
• Ford part number E2FZ-19549-AA
Air Intake System • Ford additive FW-15

Ford uses the "filter minder" type of system. The
recommendation is to check the filter minder every
10,000 miles and to replace the filter as required. The
two common air filter part numbers for Ford are:
• FA-1680 (F-series and Excursion)
• FA-1618 (Econoline)
Testing Coolant Concentration
The cooling system and hoses should be inspected
every 15,000 miles and 8 to 10 ounces of supple-
mental coolant (additive FW-15) should be added
to maintain proper concentration between changes.

________________________ TIPS FOR COOLANT SYSTEM MAINTENANCE___________________________

■ Used ethylene glycol based engine coolant is a regulated substance requiring proper disposal. Check with your local authorities to deter-
mine the disposal regulations for your area. Do not store ethylene glycol-based engine coolant in open containers or allow if to remain in
puddles on the ground. Prevent ingestion by animals and children. Clean any ground spills immediately.
■ Check the owner's manual for your engine's coolant capacity.
■ Make sure the capacity of your drain container will accommodate your engine's capacity.
■ Have new coolant, rags, and the proper size wrenches and drain container, and cooling system back-flush kit prior to starting.
■ Make sure the vehicle is parked on level ground and the parking brake is applied.
■ Drain the system only when the engine is cool, NEVER hot or at operating temperature.
■ Position the drain container under the drain plug located at the button of the radiator, remove radiator cap, remove drain plug and drain
old coolant into the container.
■ Using the engine manufacturers recommended flush solution, back-flush the system. Back-flush kits are available at your engine's servic-
ing dealer and most auto parts stores.
■ Replace the drain plug.
■ Fill the coolant system with the recommended solution of coolant.
■ Check that all tools and rags are removed from the engine area, and start the engine.
■ Check for leaks, and allow the engine to come to operating temperature.
■ Shut engine down.
■ After engine cooling system has cooled, top off as required.
13.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

_____________________________ STEPS FOR CHANGING AIR FILTERS___________________________

■ Check the indicator for the usable condition of the air filter, or refer to your owner's manual for the recommended service interval (black
smoke can also be an indication of the need to change the engine's air filter).
■ Dodge and Ford applications: Release the spring catches and remove the top of the air filter box.
■ Motorhome, applications: Using a screwdriver, open the air filter container (Figure 13.7)
■ Remove the old air filter.
■ Using a clean lint-free rag, wipe dirt and debris from the bottom half of the air box or container.
■ Replace the air fiiter, making sure the filter media is facing in the proper direction (toward the bottom of the air box).
■ Replace the top of the air box and fasten the spring clamps (reassemble using a screwdriver for motorhome applications).
■ Reset the air filter indicator, if so equipped.

■ GENERAL TIPS FOR DIESEL ENGINE OPERATION ■ Engine Cool Down

Excessive Idle If your engine has operated for an extended pe-

Prolonged periods of idling should be avoided
when possible. The results indude reduced fuel econ-
omy and increased engine wear due to unburned fuel
"washing" lubrication oil from the cylinder walls.
Engine Warm-up
riod at full-throttle or high-power operation, such as
pulling a long steep grade, the engine should be op-
erated at idle speed for two to three minutes or un-
til the exhaust gas temperatures read 300 degrees F
as indicated by a pyrometer (if equipped). However,
under normal highway operation, the cool-down is
not required.

Avoid full-speed or full-load operation until the Fuel Additives

coolant temperature reaches the "normal" operating
range. Engines should not be operated above low
idle until oil pressure is indicated.
Most manufacturers do not recommend the use
of fuel additives for the purpose of added lubricity
or to compensate for low sulfur fuels that are used
today. Today's modern diesel engines are designed
to operate on No. 1-D and No. 2-D diesel fuel.

Cetane Improvers

Cetane is the measure of a diesel fuel's ignition

Figure 13.7 Typical RV air filter application.
quality. Ignition quality is measured by ignition de-
lay, the time lag between the start of fuel injection
and the start of fuel combustion. Fuels with good ig-
nition quality give short ignition delays and are as-
signed high cetane numbers. Cetane, the colorless,
oily hydrocarbon on which the cetane number scale
is based, has extremely good ignition quality and as-
signed a number up to 100. Most direct injected en-
gines require a minimum cetane number of 40.
Cetane improvers—not unlike octane boosters used
for gasoline—are used to improve diesel fuel's igni-
tion quality.
 CHAPTER 13 Diesel Service 13.9

Figure 13.8 Incorporating a by-pass oil filter system in addition to a full-flow oil filtration system.
13.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Biocide Treatments ditional benefits include increased oil volume and

Biocide treatments should be used in fuel systems
to eliminate the bacteria which can form in fuel sys-
tems during prolonged storage (more than 30 days).
Check with your manufacturer for specific recom-
mendations.
Fuel tanks should always be "topped off" when
storing, to prevent condensation from forming in
the fuel tank.
Starting Fluids (Ether)
Starting fluids should not be used. Most modem
diesel engines are equipped with cold start mecha-
nisms. The use of starting fluids may result in cata-
strophic engine failure.
oil cooling capacity.
Oil Analysis
Thousands of commercial truckers have bene-
fited from oil analysis (See Table 13.1). The typi-
cal analysis includes measuring wear metals in parts
per million (spectrochemical) in the fuel, coolant,
and solids in solution (physical properties), and
checking the total base number of the lubricant.
By logging and tracking the results over a period
of time, recommendations can be made as to the
engine's maintenance intervals. Oil analysis kits
are available from most large diesel service shops.

By-Pass Filtration

Many diesel powered over-the-road trucks incor-

porate a by-pass oil filter system in addition to their
full-flow oil filtration system (Figure 13.8). By de-
sign, by-pass filters trap particles in the 0 to 20 mi-
cron size (Figure 13.9) range that escape full-flow
filter media. Taking a small amount of the engine's
oil (0.5 to 3.5 gpm maximum), the by-pass filter's
media eliminates water (a by-product of combus-
tion) and effectively (99 percent) traps the particles Figure 13.9 Comparing a micron to a human hair
that cause most engine wear (5 to 20 microns). Ad- and talcum powder.
 ■ CHAPTER 14 ■
SOLAR POWER SYSTEMS
olar power is the method of battery charging
S favored by most RVers when they camp without
an electrical hookup. If you have the right equip-
ment for your needs, it's the most efficient way to
charge batteries.
■ A DEFINITION OF SOLAR POWER ■
Solar power is the production of electricity by sun-
light using solar panels. The panels are composed of
photovoltaic cells, which are made from quartz crys-
tals. When exposed to light from the sun, the crys-
tals create electricity. As the intensity of the light
increases, more current is generated.
A completed cell has a voltage output of between
0.45 and 0.50 volt. It is wired in series with other cells
to form a panel of from 32 to 36 cells so that it will
produce the voltage needed for battery charging.
An RV's solar system consists of the panels (nor-
mally more than one panel is needed for an efficient
system), a controller, and a suitable bank of batter-
ies. This system will provide power for your 12-volt
DC equipment. If you want to operate any 120-volt
AC equipment, an inverter must be included in your
electrical system.
■ PANEL SPECIFICATIONS ■
There are a wide variety of panels available with
many different specifications (Table 14.1). The lower
wattage panels are the smallest in physical size be-
cause they have fewer cells, and they also weigh less.
Along with the wattage, both the size and the weight
are things you'll need to take into consideration for
your solar system.
■ PLANNING A SOLAR SYSTEM ■
The first step in planning a solar system is to cal-
culate how much 12-volt DC electricity you use in
an average day so you can determine the number
of ampere-hours needed in the battery bank. If you
plan to operate any 120-volt AC equipment from an
inverter, also include this usage. See Tables 14.2 and
14,3 for the average consumption of typical AC and
DC equipment.
To figure your usage, multiply the consumption
rate of the individual appliance by the length of time
it will most likely be operated, to arrive at the total
ampere-hours used in a day. In your calculations, use
whole hours or the decimal equivalent for fractions
of an hour. For example, if you estimate that you'll
run the water pump for a total of 6 minutes, use 0.1
ampere-hour.
There is no precise way to determine how much
battery capacity you'll need, but there is a method
you can use: Assuming you follow the conservative
practice of discharging the batteries to around 25
percent of capacity, multiply the total daily ampere-
hour usage by four. The resulting figure will be close
to the minimum amount of ampere-hours you'll
need.
Using this formula, a daily usage of 30.5 ampere-
hours (See example, Table 14.4) would require a bat-
tery or battery bank with at least a capacity of
100-ampere-hours, such as one Group 27 battery
(105-ampere-hours), two Group 24 batteries (150-
ampere-hours), or two 6-volt golf-cart batteries. One
golf-cart battery provides 220-ampere hours, which
is more than you need for the usage in the exam-
ple, but you must use two 6-volt batteries wired in
14.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Table 14.1 Specifications of Popular Solar Modules used on RVs

Open Circuit Peak Short Circuit Peak
Mfr. Model Watts Voltage Volts Amperage Amps L W D Wt. Wrnty

Brit. Petro. BP27SUL 75 2 1 .4 17 4.7 4.4 47.4" 21.1" 1.97" 17 20

Brit. Petro. BP580UL 80 22 18 4.7 4.44 47.4" 21.1” 1.97" 17 20
Brit. Petro. BP585UL 85 22.1 18.5 5 4.72 47.4" 21.1" 1.97" 17 20

Kyocera KC80 80 21.5 16.9 4.97 4.73 38.4" 25.7" 2" 17.7 lbs. 25 yrs.
Kyocera KC120-1 120 21.5 16.9 7.45 7.1 56.1" 25.7" 2" 26.3 lbs. 25 yrs.

Photowatt PW750 75 21.6 17 4.7 4.4 48.7" 21.9“ 2" 17.2 20 yrs.
Photowatt PW1000 100 21.6 17.1 6 5.9 52.5" 26.5" 2" 23.1 lbs. 20 yrs.

Siemens SP75 75 21.7 17 4.8 4.4 47.3" 20.8" 2.2” 16.7 lbs. 25 yrs.
Siemens SRI 00 100 22 17.7 6.3 5.6 59" 23.4" 2.2" 24 lbs. 25 yrs.

Sola rex SX80 80 21 16.8 5.17 4.75 57.5" 19.8" 1.97” 20.9 lbs. 20 yrs.

series for 12-volt output.
You can use whatever size and type of batteries
you wish, but keep in mind that deep-cycle batter-
ies should never be discharged below 50 percent.
Once the battery capacity is figured, you can de-
termine how many panels you'll require to achieve
the minimum charge (Figure 14.1). A good way to
figure this is to allow one watt of solar power for
every two ampere hours of battery capacity. Or stated
another way: pair a 50-watt panel with a 100-am-
pere-hour battery. Using the example above, you'll
need a solar panel with an output of 50 watts. To
provide extra charging capability in cloudy weather,
some RVers use a formula of one watt of solar power
for one ampere-hour of battery capacity.
A 50-watt panel coupled with a 100-ampere hour
battery is a minimum system. But using the formula
above, you can expand the system according to your

Table 14.2 Average Power Consumption of Typical Appliances

Run Times/Amp Hours*
Appliance Wattage 5 min. 15 min. 30 min. 1 hr. 2 hrs. 3 hrs. 8 hrs. 24 hrs.

Color TV, 13 inch 50 .33 1 2 4 8 12 32 96

Color TV, 19 inch 100 .66 2 4 8 16 24 64 192

VCR 50 .33 1 2 4 8 12 32 96

Lamp 100 .66 2 4 8 16 24 64 192

Blender 300 2 6 12

Curling iron 50 .33 1 2

Power drill, 3/8-inch 500 3.3 10 20

Ice maker** 200 2.6 5.2 10.4 15.6 41.6 83.2

Coffeemaker 1000 6.6 20 40 80 160

Refrigerator, 3 cu. ft.** 150 2 4 8 12 32 96

Refrigerator, 20 cu. ft.** 750 21 42 84 126 336 672

Microwave, compact 750 5 15 30 60 120 180

Microwave, full-size 1500 10 30 60 120 240 360

Vacuum 1100 7.3 22 44 88 176 264

*The figure in each column represents the total amp hours used (at 12-volt DC) based on various continuous run times.
**Refrigeration is typically calculated using a 1/3-duty cycle.
 CHAPTER 14 Solar Power Systems 14.3

Table 14.3 Approximate Average Power Consumption needs. Examples: two 50-watt panels with a 200-am-
of Widely Available 12-Volt DC Appliances pere-hour battery bank, four 50-watt panels with a
Description Amps 400-ampere-hour battery bank, and so on.
Lighting Even if your usage is low, you may want more than
Incandescant Light 1.5 the minimum system for faster charging and for more
1 5-watt fluorescent light 1.0 efficient operation in lower light levels.
16-watt slimline fluorescent light 1.2
Something else to take into consideration is the
Dual 8-watt fluorescent tubes 1.2
geographic area in which you'll do most of your RV-
20-watt standard fluorescent light 1.5
Kitchen
ing. Look at Table 14.5 to see how the output of a
Water Pump 5.0 50-watt panel varies according to latitude. If you'll
Coffeemaker 11.5 be in an area of low-output, you may want to have
Toaster 15.0 enough panels to provide a higher total output.
Slow cooker 20.0
Range hood, fan and light 5.0
Vent fan 2.5
The Controller
Refrigerator 1.7
Household
Travel iron 10.0
The panels must have a controller (Figure 14.2)
Electronic bug killer 2.5 so the voltage can be regulated to prevent over-
Electric razor 1.3 charging of the batteries. A controller also prevents
Vacuum cleaner, hand portable 5.0 reverse flow. This occurs at night, when no light is
Tools falling on the panels and no voltage is being pro-
Winches (for light use) 10.0-100.0
Air compressor 3.5-9.0
Drill 12.0-15.0
Communications Table 14.4 Formula to Compute Amp-Hours
TV, color, 13“ 4.0 Light 1.5 amps x 6 hours = 9.0 amp-hrs.
Satellite Dish Receiver 2.5 Color television 4.0 amps x 3 hours = 12 amp-hrs.
Satellite Dish Receiver 2.5 amps x 3 hours = 7.5 amp-hrs.
CB radio 0.5
Water pump 5.0 amps x 0.2 hours = 1.0 amp-hrs.
Digital clock 0.1 Vacuum Cleaner 5.0 amps x 0.2 hours = 1.0 amp-hrs.
Tape recorder 0.5
Amplifier (30 watt) 2.0 Total of this example: 30.5 amp -hrs.

Figure 14.1 Any number of solar panels can be wired into an RV, but most owners use a one-panel system
(a) or a two-panel system (b).
14.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Table 14.5 Solar Performance Tables duced. The voltage of the battery causes current to
Lat. Location Amp-Hrs. Tilt Angle flow back into the panels, which causes a slight bat-
32N AL, Montgomery 7.55 55S tery discharge.
61N AK, Bethel 6.41 60S The basic form of regulation that a controller pro-
65N AK, Fairbanks 5.19 90S vides allows the panels to supply the solar-generated
62N AK, Matanuska 5.60 75S
amperage at its maximum until the battery voltage
33N AZ, Phoenix 10.50 45S
35N AR, Little Rock 7.29 60S rises to the controller's high set-point. Then the pan-
39N CA, Davis 8.27 60S els' output is shut off. When the battery voltage drops
37N CA, Fresno 8.42 60S to the low set-point, the panels turn on again.
34N CA, Los Angeles 9.57 50S
There are two types of controllers with this form
34N CA, Riverside 10.28 45S
of voltage regulation, both of which achieve the same
40N CO, Boulder 8.40 50S
40N CO. Granby 10.27 40S result but in different ways. One is the shunt-type
39N D.C., Washington 6.74 60S that has a blocking diode to prevent reverse current
30N FL, Gainesville 8.72 45S flow. The other is the series-pass type that contains
26N FL, Miami 9.25 30S
a relay for controlling the voltage, which, in effect,
34N GA, Atlanta 7.80 55S
21 N HI, Honolulu 9.74 35S also blocks reverse current flow.
44N ID, Boise 8.17 65S Some more elaborate controllers incorporate
42N IL, Chicago 4.57 65S pulse-width modulation technology as a means of
40N IN, Indianapolis 6.46 65S
controlling the charge. Depending on the controller,
42N IA, Ames 7.10 65S
it may have a multi-stage charge system, or provide
38N KN, Dodge City 10.27 45S
39N KN, Manhattan 7.35 60S a tapered charge (See Page 1-14).
38N KY, Lexington 8.09 60S These controllers have other useful functions, such
30N LA, New Orleans 6.35 55S as the capability of delivering an equalization charge
32N LA, Shreveport 7.32 55S
periodically, and also providing a float voltage, which
44 N ME, Portland 7.49 65S
42N AAA, Boston 5.92 65S
handles small loads in the RV as well as keeping the
43N Ml, E. Lansing 6.29 65S batteries topped off without overcharging them.
46N MN St. Cloud 7.50 70S Some controllers may have a temperature sensor.
39N MO, St. Louis 7.11 60S It is connected to the batteries so that the tempera-
47N MT, Great Falls 7.85 70S
ture of the batteries varies the charge voltage; that is,
41N NM, N. Omaha 8.09 60S
36N NV, Las Vegas 10.89 45S
the sensor adjusts the batteries charge output to the
40N NJ, Sea brook 6.55 65S batteries' temperature.
35N NM, Albuquerque 11.64 40S Controllers have either an analog meter or LCD
41N NY, New York City 6.26 65S
digital display, which provides a readout of both bat-
39N NC, Ely 10.81 50S
36N NC, Greensboro 7.43 60S
47N ND, Bismarck 8.51 65S
41 N OH, Cleveland 6.08 65S
35N OK, Oklahoma City 9.21 50S
42N OR, Medford 7.20 65S
40N PA, Pittsburgh 4.76 65S
41N Rl, Newport 6.68 65S
33N SC, Charleston 7.95 55S
44N SD, Rapid City 9.39 55S
36N TN, Nashville 6.85 60S
32N TX, Big Spring 9.20 45S
33N TX, Fort Worth 8.95 50S
41N UT, Salt Lake City 8.24 65S
38N VA, Richmond 6.61 60S
47N WA, Seattle 5.43 70S
48N WA Spokane 7.37 70S
43N Wl, Madison 6.88 65S Figure 14.2 Heliotrope PV RV-30DE solar charge
43N WY, Lander 1 1.03 45S controller

tery voltage and amperage. Of the two, the digital
readout is the most accurate.
Self-regulating Panels
A self-regulating type of panel does not require a
controller, however, such a panel should not be con-
sidered for serious battery charging. A self-regulat-
ing panel has just enough cells to provide 14.5 volts.
This low voltage maintains a battery over long peri-
ods when it is not in use, but it will not charge a dis-
charged battery. When the voltage reaches
approximately 14.5 volts, the battery refuses any fur-
ther charge, thereby self-regulating the charge rate.
Such a panel may be practical for those who use their
RVs infrequently, and merely wish to keep the bat-
teries topped off between uses.
Installing the Panels
Whenever panels are exposed to sunlight, they
produce electricity, so to be safe, cover the panels
with a blanket or large piece of cardboard before
working with them.
A panel is mounted to the roof with four brack-
ets, one on each corner of the panel, which are
screwed onto the roof. Any screws put into the roof
should be coated with caulk before inserting, and
then once secured, the screw head should be covered
with caulk. Use a caulk that is compatible with the
Figure 14.3 Popular brackets for installing solar
panels include the Z-type (left) and 90-degree angle
type.
CHAPTER 14 Solar Power Systems 14.5
type of roof you have on your RV. This is particularly
important with rubber roofs.
Most panels can be bolted together making, in ef-
fect, one large panel. This type of arrangement also
requires only four brackets, but you'll need two alu-
minum bars to hold the panels together. Attach the
bars to the panel frames.
The brackets are typically made of heavy-duty alu-
minum in several styles. Two popular brackets are
the Z type and the 90-degree type (Figure 14.3). The
part of the bracket that is attached to the roof should
have holes for at least two screws so the panels will
be held securely to the roof. Use the correct size drill
bit so you don't make the holes any larger than nec-
essary.
Temperature affects panel performance; the higher
the temperature, the less efficient the panels will be.
In the summer, the temperature on an RV's roof can
reach 150 degrees, so allow an air space of about two
inches between the bottom of the panel and the roof.
The panels can be permanently mounted so they
lay flat on the roof, or you can arrange for them to
be tilted (Figure 14.4). When the RV is parked prop-
erly, and the solar panels tilted, the panels will re-
ceive maximum sunlight.
If you wish to tilt the panels, you will have to fab-
ricate or purchase two legs that can be attached to
one side of the panels. The legs can be heavy alu-
minum bar stock or aluminum angle iron. If you
have large panels or several panels joined together,
opt for angle-iron legs, which can support the heavy
weight better.
You may be in different locations where the an-
Figure 14.4 Panels that can be tilted toward the
sun are more effective.
14.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
gle of tilt will vary from one location to the next. You
don't need legs in different lengths to adjust the pan-
els to the optimum tilt in any location. Merely put
a series of holes in the one pair of legs and use the
appropriate hole to achieve the needed tilt.
To tilt the panels, you will need an extra pair of
bolts just like those that hold the panels to the brack-
ets. The first step is to loosen the two bolts on the
corners of what will be the lower edge of the panel
so the panel can pivot. Next, remove the bolts on the
corners of the opposite edge and use them to at-
tach the legs to the opposite edge. Raise the panels
to the desired angle and use the extra pair of bolts
to attach the legs to the brackets on the roof. This
will hold the panel rigidly and keep it from slipping.
See Table 14.5 to determine the optimum angle at
which your panels should be tilted for the area you're
in. From this, you can estimate which hole to use.
It's not absolutely necessary to tilt the panels, es-
pecially in the summer when there are many hours
of sunlight, but during the winter months, when the
sun is low in the sky, tilting the panels will allow you
to capture as much light as possible.
Tilted panels can be affected by high winds. If a
strong wind is blowing against the back of the pan-
els, the wind pressure can loosen the bracket screws
holding the panels to the roof and perhaps cause
leaks later, or worse, the mounting brackets could be
wrenched from the roof. It's sensible to lower tilted
panels in extremely high winds. And of course, pan-
els should always be flat and secured prior to travel.
Figure 14.5 It's best to route the wires from the
solar panel(s) through the refrigerator vent (shown)
or through a holding-tank vent.
Panel Placement
Before installing the panels, carefully plan their
placement. Try to put them so that when the sun is
low in the sky, no shadows will be cast on the pan-
els by the air conditioner, TV antenna, satellite dish,
or other structures mounted on the roof, including
other panels.
An important consideration in the placement of
panels is the wiring run. The wiring should enter the
RV where it can be routed to the batteries with as
short a run as possible.
Rarely is it necessary to drill a hole though the
roof for running the wire. It's likely that an efficient
installation can be made by running the wires down
through a holding-tank vent pipe or the refrigera-
tor vent (Figure 14.5). Some RVers remove the caulk-
ing from a vent pipe and run the wires down
alongside the pipe, while others run them inside the
pipe and bring them out inside the RV through a pre-
viously cut hole in the pipe. You can drill a hole in
the pipe and, if necessary, enlarge it with a file or
Dremel tool.
Ideally, the controller should be mounted near
the vent the wires are run through and in a place
where the display is easy to read. If you can't recess
the controller in the wall, you can purchase a proj-
ect box (Figure 14.6), available at RadioShack, mount
the controller on the box, and mount the box on the
wall. This will make the controller project out from
the wall by the depth of the box, so it will have to be
Figure 14.6 Project boxes can be used to surface-
mount the controller.

Figure 14.7 Good-quality cable clamps can be
used to secure the wires.
mounted where it won't be in the way.
The wires can be secured to the roof with cable
clamps (Figure 14.7). Again, use caulk on any screw
threads and screw heads. If you can find them, use
black cable clamps instead of white; they are more
resistant to ultraviolet rays. Marine-supply stores of-
ten carry the black clamps.
If the panels are placed on the leading edge of the
roof, install some sort of wind deflector across the
front edges of the panels to keep the wind from lift-
ing the panels from the roof while on the road (Fig-
ure 14.8).
Wiring
The wiring consists of two lengths of wire from
the positive and negative terminals of the panels (Fig-
ure 14.9). These run to the controller and then to the
corresponding battery terminals.
To receive the maximum panel output and avoid
voltage drop, you must use wire of the proper gauge.
The proper gauge is determined by the distance the
wires must run to reach the batteries, but in no in-
stallation should the wiring be smaller than 10-gauge.
If you have a long run, use 8-gauge wire for the bulk
of the run and connect 10-gauge wire on both ends,
so 10-gauge wire will go to both the panels and the
controller. This is necessary because the terminals on
the back of the panels and the controller won't ac-
cept any larger wire than 10-gauge.
Use color-coded wires; either red and black, with
red for the positive wire, and black for the ground,
CHAPTER 14 Solar Power Systems 14.7
Figure 14.8 Installing a wind deflector on the front
edge can prevent the wind from lifting the panel.
or black and white, with black for the positive and
white for the ground.
Because the wire on the roof will be exposed to
the elements, it should be the type designated THHN
or THWN and marked as being "sunlight resistant"
and/or "direct burial." This type is best because the
two wires are in a nylon sheath (Figure 14.10) that
is resistant to ultraviolet rays. It's available from good
electrical supply stores.
Because of space considerations, you may not be
able to place the panels alongside one another. If so,
use cable clamps to secure the wires running between
panels. Also use as many cable clamps as necessary
on the wire run from the panel to the vent.
The panels are wired in parallel; that is, with the
positive wire of one panel going to the positive ter-
minal of the next panel, and so on. The negative wires
are connected similarly to the negative terminals.
The wires rest in a channel in the terminals, on the
back of the panel, and are secured with a screw.
Connect the panels together, starting with the
panel that is the farthest away from the wire-entry
vent, so that when the panels are wired together you'll
end up with the wire running from the panel that
is closest to the vent.
Feed the wire through or alongside the vent to the
controller and connect the positive and negative wires
to the proper terminals on the controller. Next, con-
nect the positive and negative wires that will run to
the battery to the other set of positive and negative
terminals on the controller. Consult the owner's man-
ual for the controller to find out where these termi-
nals are located.
14.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 14.9 Output of solar panels must be regulated to prevent overcharging of the batteries.

As close to the battery as possible, install a fuse or ■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■

circuit breaker in the positive wire. The amperage
needed for the fuse or circuit breaker depends on the Solar panels are remarkably free from problems,
total amperage output of the panels, and it should and if one does occur it's usually simple to solve. The
always be 20 to 30 percent higher than the total panel only equipment needed for making tests is a multi-
output. For example, if the total panel output is 12 meter.
amps, the fuse or circuit breaker should be rated at If you suspect that the amperage and voltage read-
20 amps. ings on the controller are incorrect or that the bat-
If your controller has a temperature sensor, it is
usually installed so it runs from the controller to the
positive post on the battery but consult the owner's
manual for proper installation for your particular
controller.

■ PARKING TO MAXIMIZE SUN EXPOSURE ■

Try to pick a camping place where the panels will

be in the sun all day Pay attention to trees, build-
ings or other structures that may block the sun dur-
ing certain hours.
If you're going to tilt the panels, park your RV so Figure 14.10 Wires protected by an element-
that when the panels are tilted, they will be aimed resistant sheath work best. This one is from a boat-
towards the south. ing -supply store.

teries are not receiving a full charge, the first thing
to do is check the wiring to the panels. Disconnect
the panel wires at the controller. Then check the volt-
age between the positive and negative wires with a
multimeter. The voltage should be close to the open
voltage of the panels (See Table 14.1). But, because
in certain conditions it's possible to get a full volt-
age reading from the panels when a problem exists,
the next step is to check the amperage by placing the
probes on the positive and negative wires from the
panels. For checking amperage, however, you'll need
a multimeter capable of measuring amperage greater
than the output of the panels in full sunlight. For the
highest and most accurate readings, take them at
noon or in the early afternoon. The reading should
be close to the rated amperage output of the panels.
If it's not, check the terminals for loose connections
or corrosion. It's common to find that the problem
is a bad connection at one of the panels.
If this doesn't solve the problem, at the controller
reconnect the panel wires and disconnect the wires
to the batteries.
CAUTION: The positive wire is hot so be careful that it doesn't come
in contact with the negative wire or a metal ground.
CHAPTER 14 Solar Power Systems 14.9
Once the wires are removed from the controller,
measure the voltage between the positive and the
negative wire to get the battery voltage. If this is not
what it should be, check the battery terminals for
loose connections or corrosion. If the problem still
exists, chances are it is with the controller. You'll have
to check with the manufacturer of the controller to
find out if you should send the unit to be repaired.
■ PANEL MAINTENANCE ■
Solar panels are almost maintenance-free. For
them to operate properly and at maximum efficiency,
all that's necessary is to keep them clean. When the
panel becomes dirty, simply wipe it off with a sponge
or a soft cloth and water or use window cleaner and
paper towels. If necessary, a mild, nonabrasive de-
tergent may be used.
Be careful that nothing falls or is dropped on the
surface of the panels that will break the glass. The
glass is sturdy, so the occasional acorn, pine cone,
small branch, or even small hail falling on a panel
is unlikely to cause any damage.
14.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
 ■ CHAPTER 15 ■
OVENS AND RANGES
R
anges and ovens in RVs function quite simi-
larly to household gas stoves and ovens, pro-
viding reliable and easy cooking capability to trav-
elers. But the rigors of highway travel, with vibra-
tion, changing climates, and extensive usage can
take its toll on these stoves and ovens. Most main-
tenance and repair procedures that will keep these
units in tip-top operating condition are certainly
within the capability of their owners.
Top burners on RV ranges operate when LP-gas is
routed via the supply line to the manifold that is lo-
cated in the top-burner section. This manifold is con-
tinually pressurized as long as the LP-gas-tank valve
is open. When a burner valve is opened, the gas is
injected through the burner orifice into the venturi
(mixing tube), where it mixes with primary com-
bustion air and flows to the burner.
Then the gas-air mixture is evenly discharged
through the ports in the burner cap. Ignition oc-
curs either by use of a lighted match, a pilot light, or
electronic ignition, if applicable. Combustion char-
acteristics may be modified on some stoves by ad-
justing the amount of primary combustion air
available.
The oven burner takes its fuel supply from the
manifold in the top section of the range. The supply
tube leading from the manifold extends down and
into the automatic-oven safety valve.
When this valve opens, gas passes through to the
burner orifice. The orifice mixes the gas flow into the
burner venturi, where it mixes with primary com-
bustion air and enters the burner. The oven pilot or
electronic-ignition system ignites this mixture, re-
sulting in flame evenly spread around the burner.
■ OVEN AND RANGE COMPONENTS ■
Pilot Burner (Magic Chef)
On Magic Chef units, the pilot burner is actually two
pilots in one. The standby pilot is the portion of the
pilot light that burns constantly, provided that the
LP-gas tank and manifold valve (if applicable) are
open. The pilot light ignites the gas-air mixture at
the burner when the oven valve opens. It also pro-
vides the base for the heater pilot.
The heater pilot is an extension of the standby pi-
lot. It is on only when the oven thermostat calls for
heat. The purpose of the heater pilot is to open the
oven safety valve, thereby enabling gas to flow to the
oven burner.
Thermostat
The thermostat is probably the most important com-
ponent in the functioning of the oven. It regulates
the oven to maintain the desired cooking tempera-
ture. The thermostat senses the oven temperature by
means of a thermal bulb located in the top of the
oven. This bulb is filled with gas and connected to a
bellows in the thermostat by a capillary tube. When
the oven is on, the bulb heats up and the gas expands,
causing the bellows in the thermostat to expand. A
mechanical linkage within the thermostat shuts off
the flow of gas to the pilot burner. When this hap-
pens, the pilot flame ceases to burn at the heater po-
sition but continues at standby. As the temperature
decreases in the oven, the bulb cools, and the gas
15.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE M A G I C C H E F O V E N A N D R A N G E

Problem Possible Cause Correction

No gas to oven pilot Improper control-knob setting Set oven-control knob to "oven pilot on"
position
Oven slow to heat; poor baking; poor ignition \Defective gas pressure regulator Have regulator tested
of burners; pilots won't stay lit; popping sound
from top burners; carbon on pilot shield; burner
flame too low or too high
Oven pilots won't light or stay lit Incorrect pilot adjustment; damaged pilot Adjust pilot; check pilot tubing for kinks or
tubing; defective pressure regulator; clogs; have pressure regulator checked; be
incorrect oven-control-knob setting sure oven control knob is not in "pilot off"
position.
Top burners won't light Top burners and flash tubing out of position; Check and adjust position of burners and
no pilot flame; air shutter improperly adjusted; flash tubing; check and adjust pilot flame;
clogged burner ports adjust air shutter; clean burner ports with
a toothpick
Gas smell Leaky gas line Check all connections with soapy water;
repair if necessary
Cake rises higher on one side Uneven heat Pans set too close to side of oven; allow
than other 2 inches from side. Level range.
Cake burns on bottom Improper circulation Oven too full for proper circulation;
remove item; do not use pan with a
dark bottom
Oven will not operate Pilot not lit Relight pilot
Oven door not closing properly Misaligned door Open oven door and slightly loosen four
sheet-metal screws holding the door panel
to the liner
No constant pilot No gas to range Check gas supply; turn on LP-gas tank
Constant-pilot-selector key turned off Adjust constant-pilot-selector key to
LP position
Blocked tubing supply line Disconnect tubing at source and at pilot
end and blow out to clear passageway
Blocked orifice Single tube pilot; disconnect tubing from
pilot and blow out to clear orifice
Blocked pilot Disconnect tubing from pilot; remove
orifice from pilot and clean out blockage or
replace pilot
Pilot too close to oven burner flame Adjust position of pilot assembly
No heater pilot Thermostat turned off Turn thermostat knob to setting above
oven temperature
Blocked tubing supply line Disconnect tubing at source and at pilot
end and blow out to clear passageway
Blocked orifice Single tube pilot; disconnect tubing from
pilot and blow out to clear orifice
Blocked pilot Disconnect tubing from pilot; remove
orifice from pilot and clean out blockage
replace pilot.

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE MAGIC CHEF OVEN AND RANGE, continued
Problem
Oven will not maintain proper
temperature
No main burner flame
Yellow tips on burner flames
Flames blowing off ports
Flames flashing back in mix tube
CHAPTER 15 Ovens and Ranges 15.3
Possible Cause
Oven bulb not in proper location
Oven bulb coated with foreign material
Oven bottom covered with aluminum foil
Pilot flame not cycling off
Safety device not closing; flame-responsive
element is being heated by oven burner flame
due to either improper location
or an overrated oven burner
Safety device not closing when
flame-responsive element is
not being heated
Thermostat set lower then oven temperature
Closed oven burner orifice
Flame-responsive element not hot enough
Defective thermostat
Defective safety valve
Improper gas-air mixture
Excessive gas pressure; air shutter opened
too much
Gas-air mixture too lean
Correction
Secure oven bulb in clips that hold it in
proper location; oven bulb should not
touch any surface; place approximately
1/2 inch away from surface of oven drum top
Use fine steel wool or scouring pad to
gently clean surface of bulb
If foil blocks holes or slots in oven bottom,
heat distribution will be affected;
remove foil
High pressure can cause the constant-pilot
flame to act as a heater-pilot flame;
check pressure and adjust as necessary if
that fails to solve the problem, replace
the thermostat
Check flame-responsive element for proper
location on burner pilot; pilot burner must
be properly located on bracket bracket
must be in proper location check oven
burner rate
Replace safety device
Reset knob to higher temperature
Readjust to rated input
Check position of flame-responsive
element; it must be enveloped in the
heater-pilot flame; check gas pressure;
check pressure regulator; repair if
necessary
Replace thermostat
Replace safety valve
Open the air mixture on units having
adjustable air shutters; orifice hoods may
be out of alignment (Figure 15.1)
Close air shutter slightly; check gas
pressure regulator
Reduce air shutter opening; check for
sufficient gas pressure
15.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 15.1 Oven air-shutter-orifice hoods must be
aligned properly to produce a good gas-air mixture.
and the bellows in the thermostat contract. The me-
chanical linkage in the thermostat then causes an in-
creasing amount of pilot gas to flow, and the pilot
goes to the heater-flame position.
On some newer ranges, the thermostat will have
an off position (full clockwise rotation), where all
gas is shut off to the oven main-burner safety valve
and to the oven pilot. At the pilot-on position,
standby pilot gas is admitted to the oven pilot.
Oven Safety Valve
The oven safety valve (Figure 15.2) controls gas flow
to the main burner. The valve is operated by a thermal
bulb in the heater-pilot flame. This bulb is connected
to a bellows in the valve by a capillary tube. When
Figure 15.2 Safety valve in the oven controls gas
flow to the main burner.
the bulb is heated, the mercury within it expands, in
turn expanding the bellows and opening the valve. The
opposite occurs when the heater-pilot flame subsides.
■ RANGE AND OVEN ■
COMPONENT OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Lighting and Extinguishing Pilots
Magic Chef Top Burner and Oven Pilots
To light or extinguish the pilot(s) on Magic Chef
ranges:
1. Turn off all burner valves. The oven-thermo-
stat dial should be in the pilot-off position.
2. Turn on the top-burner gas-supply valve
(Figure 15.3).
3. Lift the main cook-top panel and light the
top burner pilot with a match or portable
ignitor (if so equipped).
Figure 15.3 Magic Chef top-burner gas-supply
valve
 CHAPTER 15 Ovens and Ranges 15.5

4. Depress and turn the thermostat dial to the

pilot-on position.
5. Open the oven door and light the pilot. A
small flame will be noted at the top of the
pilot burner. If the range has not been operat-
ing for a long period of time, a longer waiting
period for ignition of the pilot may be neces-
sary due to air in the gas lines.

6. To extinguish top range and oven pilots, turn

the thermostat dial to the pilot-off position and
turn off the gas-supply valve.

Figure 15.4 Location of pilot LP-gas supply valve in

Wedgewood/Atwood ovens
Wedgewood/Atwood Top Burner and Oven Pilots

To light the pilot(s) on Wedgewood/Atwood ranges: 3. Lift or remove the range top.
4. Turn the pilot-supply valve on—if so
1. Verify that the gas supply is sufficient. equipped (Figure 15.4).
2. Turn all controls to the off position. 5. Light the top-burner pilot.

Figure 15.5 The pilot light in the Wedgewood/Atwood oven is located at the back of the oven.
15.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE W E D G E W O O D / A T W O O D O V E N A N D RANGE

Problem Condition Solution

Range Pilot won't light or stay lit Gas pressure incorrect Set pressure to 11" W.C. with two or more
gas appliances running.
Supply valve closed Turn valve on
Insufficient gas supply Check gas supply
Insufficient gas pressure Check for gas leaks and have regulator
checked by qualified IP gas technician
Blocked pilot orifice or blocked flash tubes Clean pilot orifice with toothpick; clean
flash tubes
Pilot flame too high or too low Adjust pilot flame
Pilot flame cover out of position Reposition pilot flame cover and/ or
remove carbon buildup.
Burner(s) won't light or stay lit Insufficient gas pressure Check for gas leaks and have regulator
checked by qualified LP gas technician
Incorrect air/gas mixture Adjust air shutter
Blocked orifice Clean with toothpick
Burner lights but flame is too small Improper gas pressure Check for gas leaks and have regulator
checked by qualified LP gas technician
Improper air/gas mixture Adjust air shutter (on range pilot models
only)
Problem burner valve Replace burner valve
Blocked orifice Clean with toothpick
Burner flame lifts off burner head Gas pressure too high Have regulator checked by qualified LP
gas technician
Oven burner lights, but flame remains very Improper gas pressure Check for gas leaks and have regulator
small and oven heats very slowly checked by qualified LP gas technician
Blocked orifice Clean with alcohol and cotton swab
Oven-burner flame lifts off burner and oven Gas pressure too high Have regulator checked by qualified
cycles too frequently LP gas technician
Oven cooks unevenly and/or food burns Poor ventilation Oven too full for proper circulation and/or
on the bottom ventilation holes in oven bottom (shelf
above burner) are covered
Problem thermostat Replace thermostat
Oven pilot outage Thermocouple out of position Reposition thermocouple/safety valve
Problem thermostat Replace thermostat
Blocked oven vent Remove obstruction from vent
Incorrect oven burner gas/air mixture Readjust air

6. To light the oven pilot, push in the oven-
control knob and rotate counterclockwise
to the pilot-on position.
7. Light oven pilot, located at the back of the
oven to the left of the oven burner (Figure
15.5).
Spark-Ignition Range Models
To light spark-ignition range models:
1. Verify that the gas supply is sufficient.
2. Turn on the desired top burner.
3. Wait approximately seven seconds and push
the red ignitor button or turn the ignitor
knob clockwise.
4. To light the oven pilot, turn the thermostat
knob to the pilot-on position and light the
pilot inside the oven.
5. To extinguish the oven pilot, turn the ther-
mostat knob to the off position.
Pilot Adjustment
Magic Chef
To adjust Magic Chef top-burner pilots, remove the
thermostat knob and turn the adjustment screw in
the thermostat body with a screwdriver (Figure 15.6).
The top pilot flame should be about 1/8 inch above
the lower edge of the flash tube (Figure 15.7).
For ranges without the pilot-off or pilots-off po-
sition on the thermostat knob, raise the main top
and turn the adjustment screw with a screwdriver.
Figure 15.6 Location of pilot adjustment screw for
Magic Chef top-burner pilots
CHAPTER 15 Ovens and Ranges 15.7
Figure 15.7 Adjusting the top-pilot flame in a
Magic Chef top burner
NOTE: The Magic Chef oven pilot has been preset and no adjust-
ment is possible.
Wedgewood/Atwood
To adjust Wedgewood/Atwood top-burner pilots, the
adjustment can be made with the brass screw on the
pilot-supply valve. Turn the screw clockwise to de-
crease flame, counterclockwise to increase flame. The
pilot flame should extend 3/8 inch above the pilot as-
sembly cup.
The oven pilot has been factory adjusted and re-
quires no further adjustment.
NOTE: The oven pilot may be slow in lighting due to initial air in
the gas lines.
Burner Adjustment
The burner flame is adjusted by means of air shut-
ters. If the air shutters are set too far open, the flame
will lift away from the burner head and will be dif-
ficult to light. If the air shutters are set too far closed,
the flame will look hazy and the distinct cone will
be missing.
Open the air shutters to increase the air-to-gas-
mixture ratio until the flame has yellow tips but does
not lift away from the burner head. Then close the
air shutters until the yellow tips of the flame are elim-
15.3 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
inated. This provides the maximum flame efficiency
without flame blow-off.
NOTE: Top burner flames are preset at the factory on all Wedge-
wood/Atwood models without optional range pilot.
Maintenance
Combustion problems are sometimes caused by an
accumulation of dirt, grease, dust, or spider webs
Figure 15.8 Magic Chef top-burner assembly (exploded view)
in the venturi or burner. Periodic inspection and
cleaning of the range and oven components will help
prevent reduced operating efficiency.
When cleaning the burners or any orifice, care
must be taken to prevent damaging or enlarging the
openings. Never use a wire or other metallic imple-
ment to clean an orifice or burner port. Any en-
largement of an orifice or the burner ports will affect
the gas flow and burner function. Use a toothpick to
clean orifices and burner ports.

Clean all surfaces as soon as possible after spills.
Use only warm, soapy water. Never use abrasive or
acid-type cleaners. Avoid the use of lye or caustic so-
lutions on aluminum parts.
Chrome parts may be cleaned with a chrome
cleaner to remove stubborn stains. In regions of high
humidity and salt-air conditions, the chrome range
top may show signs of rust on the underside directly
above the pilot. To help eliminate this condition, the
underside of the range top should be kept as dry as
possible. If signs of rust are detected, spray the un-
derside with a coat of high-temperature rust-inhibiting
or silicone paint. Remove the range top and spray
the paint in a well-ventilated area.
Always allow porcelain surfaces to cool before
washing. Always clean stainless-steel surfaces as soon
as possible after a spill. Pitting and discoloration will
result on stainless steel if spills are allowed to remain
for any length of time.
Use an oven cleaner on the oven interior, following
instructions on the product container. If a commercial
oven cleaner is used, protect aluminum gas tubing, the
thermostat sensing bulb, and electrical components
from the cleaner (masking tape is good for this). After
cleaning, thoroughly rinse the oven with a solution of
one tablespoon of vinegar to one cup of water.
Periodically, have the LP-gas system checked to
insure that the pressure regulator is functioning prop-
erly and delivering LP-gas at a pressure of 11 inches
water column to the regulator at the oven. Modern
RV oven gas pressure is regulated to 5 inches wa-
ter-column pressure for safety reasons.
CAUTION: It should take close to one minute for the burner to
light. If the burner lights immediately (after setting the thermostat
knob with the pilot lit), then the safety valve is stuck open. Repairs
should be made immediately by a qualified service technician.
■ MAGIC CHEF
COMPONENT REPLACEMENT ■
Magic Chef Oven Thermostat
To replace the Magic Chef oven thermostat, follow
these steps (Figure 15.8):
1. Shut off the gas.
2. Remove the main top and grates.
3. Disconnect the pilot fuel lines and the 1/4 nch
CHAPTER 15 Ovens and Ranges 15.9
main fuel line at the thermostat.
4. Remove the two screws mounting the ther-
mostat to the manifold pipe.
5. Open the oven door and remove the
capillary-bulb clips in the top of the oven.
6. Pull the capillary bulb up through the top of
the stove and remove the thermostat.
7. To install, reverse the procedure. Be sure the
thermostat gasket is in place before installing
the thermostat.
8. Using soapy water, check for gas leaks at all
connections.
Magic Chef Oven Calibration
If you think your oven is not calibrated correctly,
check a few possible causes for faulty operation be-
fore launching into the re-calibration process. Here
are a few things to check first:
■ Dial setting — The temperature inside the
oven will be most accurate when the dial is turned
just to the desired temperature. Do not turn it to a
higher temperature and then turn it back.
■ Interior obstruction — Use of large cookie
sheets or large sheets of foil inside the oven may
hamper air circulation, and affect operation. Do
not cover oven racks with foil or cookie sheets
without leaving at least one to two inches of air
space between the edge and any oven surface.
■ Oven cleaners — Spray-on oven cleaners can
leave a coating on the thermostat temperature
bulb, making it difficult to sense oven temperature
Figure 15.9 Location of the calibration screw for
Magic Chef ovens.
15.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
accurately. If you have used an oven cleaner, care-
fully clean residue off the sensing bulb.
Only after verifying that none of the above situ-
ations are causing poor oven cooking results should
you consider recalibration. The equipment necessary
for recalibration include a thermocouple type test
instrument or other temperature measuring device,
and a thin-shaft screwdriver.
NOTE: A thermocouple type test instrument is recommended for
this work because oven thermometers are not considered accurate
enough.
The instrument itself needs to be tested for ac-
curacy before checking oven calibration. To do
this, immerse the thermocouple probe in boiling
water. The reading should be close to 212 degrees
F. However, if you are making this test at altitude
higher than sea level, remember that water will
boil at a lower temperature the higher the altitude.
To complicate matters more, the boiling point will
also be affected by atmospheric pressure at the
time the test is conducted. Keeping that in mind,
the reading your get during the test may be a few
degrees off of 212.
If a thermocouple device is used for this test, it
should be "weighted" by adding mass to the tip, as
this reduces the amount of temperature swing. By
reducing the amount of temperature swing, you get
a more accurate representation of the actual average
oven temperature.
To weight the thermocouple, you have two choices:
1. Clamp two 1-inch squares of 1/16-inch-thick
aluminum to the tip of the thermocouple.
2. Attach a 5-inch x 8-inch piece of aluminum
foil to the tip of the thermocouple.
To attach the aluminum foil, fold the material
in half five times. Then insert the tip of the ther-
mocouple into the center of the folded aluminum
piece and fold one more time. Finish by folding the
edges of the aluminum so the piece clings to the ther-
mocouple tip.
To check the oven temperature:
■ Place the weighted thermocouple or other
suitable temperature sensing device in the center
of the oven.
■ Turn the oven control knob to 350 degrees
and let the oven heat up until the burner has cy-
cled on and off several times. This should take
about 20 minutes.
■ During this time, note the highest tempera-
ture reading (when the oven cycles off) and the
lowest reading (when the burner cycles on). If
possible, take these readings through the oven
window, but if there is no window, open and close
the door as quickly as possible to take the read-
ings. To obtain the most accurate readings, the
process should be repeated several times.
■ If the average of the highest and lowest tem-
peratures is more than 25 degrees F (either higher
or lower) than the setting on the oven control
knob, the oven should be recalibrated. To average
the temperature, add the highest reading and the
lowest reading, then divide by two.
To perform recalibration:
■ Remove oven control knob.
■ Hold dial stem motionless, and use a thin-
blade screwdriver to push in on calibration screw.
(Figure 15.9)
■ Turn calibration screw clockwise to lower
oven temperature, and counterclockwise for a
higher oven temperature. Very small rotation of
the calibration screw results in a large change in
temperature, so proceed carefully and in small in-
crements.
■ Test oven temperature again to verify accurate
settings.
■ When the setting is correct, replace the oven
control knob.
Magic Chef Oven Automatic-Shutoff Valve
To replace the Magic Chef oven automatic-shutoff
valve:
1. Shut off the gas.
2. Remove the oven racks and the oven bottom.
The oven bottom is removed by pushing it
toward back of the oven. Then lift up the
front of the oven bottom to release the
catches and pull the oven bottom forward.
3. Remove mounting screw from oven burner
and remove burner.
4. Disconnect the 1/4 inch supply tube from the
shutoff valve.
5. Loosen the screw holding the sensing bulb to
the pilot-light assembly.

6. Remove the sensing bulb.
7. Remove the two screws attaching the auto-
matic oven shutoff valve support and remove
the automatic oven shutoff valve.
8. To install, reverse the procedure.
9. Using soapy water, check all connections for
gas leaks.
Magic Chef Range Top-Burner Valve
To replace the Magic Chef range top-burner valve:
1. Shut off the gas supply at the tanks.
2. Remove the knobs.
3. Remove the burner grates, the main top,
and the top burners.
4. Remove the two bolts from the thermostat
and raise slightly to permit the removal of
Figure 15.10 Magic Chef oven-door replacement procedure
CHAPTER 15 Ovens and Ranges 15.11
the manifold.
5. Remove the gas-inlet tube from the half
union and move the tube out of the way.
6. Remove the two screws, one from each end
of the manifold assembly.
7. Remove manifold assembly from the range.
8. Remove the defective valve (screw counter-
clockwise).
9. To install, reverse the procedure.
10. Before installing the new valve, apply pipe
sealant to the threads.
11. Using soapy water, check all the connections
for gas leaks.
CAUTION: Some of the Magic Chef range tops have a weight/size
limit to prevent damage to the stove top. Do not use skillets larger
than ten inches in diameter. If the cookware extends more than one
inch beyond the grate top, rests on two grates, or touches the cooktop,
the resultant buildup of heat can damage the burner valve, the burner,
15.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

the burner grate, and the cooktop. It's also better not to use heavy
cast-iron pots and pans; these types of cookware help retain heat,
which can be transferred to the burner valve. Make sure the flames
from the top burners extend past the stove top or excessive heat can re-
sult. If the burner valve becomes difficult to turn or seizes (if this hap-
pens, turn off the propane at the cylinder/tank and let the flame burn
out), it should be replaced immediately.
Magic Chef Oven-Door Replacement
To replace the Magic Chef oven door (Figure 15.10):
1. Open the oven door and insert a nail or rod
into the hole in each arm that connects the
door to the range. The nail head should not
rest on the front frame.
2. Use your thigh to push against the door
top.
3. Pull out on bottom portion of the door,
exposing the hinge-stop mounting screw.
NOTE: Do not remove the nails or rods from the connect-
ing arms until the door is replaced and the arms are en-
gaged. The arms are spring loaded and will retract into the
range if the nails or rods are prematurely removed. If this
should happen, the entire range must be removed from the
cabinet enclosure and the side panels are removed to get the
arms back in place.
4. Remove the hinge-stop mounting screw.
5. To install the door, set the door in position
so the hinge stop can be screwed in place.
6. Raise the door up and rehook the connecting
arms into the door frame.
7. Make sure both connecting arms are securely
rehooked, then remove nails.
Magic Chef Oven-Burner Replacement
Magic Chef Oven
Pilot-Light-Assembly Replacement
To replace the Magic Chef oven pilot-light assembly:
1. Shut off the gas.
2. Remove the oven racks and the bottom.
3. Remove the screw holding the sensing bulb
to the pilot assembly.
4. Remove the sensing bulb from the pilot
assembly.
5. Remove the pilot fuel tube.
6. Remove the nut and bolt attaching the pilot
assembly to the support.
7. Remove the pilot assembly.
8. To install, reverse the procedure.
9. Using soapy water, check all the connections
for gas leaks.
■ WEDGEW00D/ATW00D COMPONENT
REPLACEMENT ■
Wedgewood/Atwood Range-Top Replacement
To replace the Wedgewood/Atwood range top (Fig-
ure 15.11):
1. Remove all the burner grates.
2. Lift the top upward by the front end and pull
out and away from the rear vent trim.
3. To replace, insert the lip on the rear edge of
the range top beneath the rear vent trim.
4. Lower the range top into place.
5. Apply a slight downward pressure on both
sides to engage the retaining clips.
CAUTION: On models with a range pilot, be sure burner-
pilot flash tubes are in place and the pilot is burning before
replacing the top.

To replace the Magic Chef oven burner:

Wedgewood/Atwood Top-Burner Replacement
1. Shut off the gas.
2. Remove the oven racks and the oven bottom. To replace the Wedgewood/Atwood top burners (Fig-
3. Remove the mounting screw from the oven ure 15.12):
burner and remove the burner.
4. To install, reverse the procedure. 1. Remove the range top.
 CHAPTER 15 Ovens and Ranges 15.13

Figure 15.11 Wedgewood/Atwood range (exploded vie

2. Remove the burner retaining screw. Wedgewood/Atwood Top-Burner

3. Lift the burner up and away from the burner Valve Replacement
orifice.
4. To replace, reverse the procedure.
NOTE: When cleaning the top burners, be sure all ports are To replace the Wedgewood/Atwood top-burner
open before using. A toothpick is good for this purpose. valves:
15.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 15.12 Wedgewood/Atwood range top-burner assembly
1. If the range has an oven, set the oven con-
trol to off.
2. Turn off the gas supply at the tanks.
3. Remove the range top and all the top burners.
4. Unscrew the gas-line-input connection to
the manifold.
5. Remove all control knobs.
6. Remove retaining screws that secure the
manifold to the burner box.
7. Raise the manifold just enough to remove
the defective burner valve.
Figure 15.13 A nail or rod may be used to facilitate removal of the Wedgewood/Atwood oven door.
CAUTION: Do not raise the manifold more than neces-
sary because the interconnecting gas lines to the pilot(s) can
be damaged.
8. Remove the bolts securing the burner valve
to the manifold.
9. Install the new burner valve. Torque to 20 to
25 inch-pounds.
10. Replace the manifold and the top burners.
Reconnect the gas-supply line.
11. Using soapy water, check all connections for
gas leaks.

Figure 15.14 Wedgewood/Atwood range safety-valve assembly
Wedgewood/Atwood Oven-Door Replacement
To replace the Wedgewood/Atwood oven door (Fig-
ure 15.13):
1. Open the oven door and insert a nail or rod
into the hole in each arm connection.
2. Push inward on the door, as if trying to close it.
3. Using pliers, grasp the connecting arms close
To replace the Wedgewood/Atwood oven burner:
to the door liner and raise them upward. This
will unlock the arms from the door.
NOTE: Do not remove the nails or rods from the connecting
arms until the door is replaced and the arms are engaged. The
arms are spring loaded and will retract into the range if the
nails or rods are prematurely removed. If this should happen,
the entire range must be removed from the cabinet enclosure
and the side panels removed to get the arms back in place.
4. Pull the door outward until the hinged arms
clear the openings in the frame. Due to tight
tolerances, removal of the door requires a
moderate amount of pressure.
5. To install the door, set the door in position
with the hinged arms placed into the slots in
the front frame.
CHAPTER 15 Ovens and Ranges 15.15
6. Raise the door up and rehook the connecting
arms into the door frame.
7. Make sure both connecting arms are securely
rehooked, then remove nails or rods.
Wedgewood/Atwood Oven-Burner Replacement
1. Set the oven control to off.
2. Turn off the gas supply.
3. Remove the oven rack and the oven bottom.
4. Remove the screw that secures the burner to
the front support bracket.
NOTE: Observe the position of the oven-pilot assembly and
routing of the sensing element (capillary tube) around the oven
burner and into the pilot assembly. Return them to the same
position when replacing the oven burner.
Lift and turn the oven burner just enough to
enable removal of the screw anchoring the
oven-pilot assembly to the oven burner.
To replace, reverse the procedure.
15.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Wedgewood/Atwood Safety Valve
The Wedgewood/Atwood safety valve is located in
the rear of the oven behind a galvanized shield. To
determine if it is defective:
1. Light the oven pilot.
2. While watching the pilot, turn the oven con-
trol to the broil position.
3. The pilot flame should increase in size and
cover the sensing bulb located at the front of
the pilot assembly. If the flame doesn't in-
crease, clean the pilot orifice and check the
thermostat.
CAUTION: If the flame increases and the oven burner
lights before thirty to sixty seconds, the safety valve is defective
and must be replaced.
Wedgewood/Atwood Safety-Valve Replacement
To replace the Wedgewood/Atwood safety valve (Fig-
ure 15.14):
1. Turn off the gas supply, and remove the oven
burner.
2. Remove the safety-valve sensing element
(capillary tube) from the oven-pilot assembly
(Figure 15.15). The element is held in place
by a single screw on the side of the oven pilot
assembly.
Figure 15.15 Wedgewood/Atwood range oven-pilot assembly
3. Remove the safety shield from the rear of the
oven interior.
4. Remove the mounting screws holding the
safety valve to the rear panel of the oven unit.
5. Pull the safety valve forward into the oven
interior and remove the gas input line on the
safety valve assembly.
CAUTION: The safety valve can be pulled forward only a
few inches. Use care to avoid damaging the gas input line.
6. Connect a new safety valve to the gas-input
line.
WARNING: Do not replace sensing element into the oven-
pilot assembly while testing for leaks.
7. To verify that the connection is properly
seated and will not leak:
a. Turn on the gas supply.
b. Set the oven control to pilot on.
c. Light the pilot(s)).
WARNING: When lighting the oven pilot, be sure the
safety-valve sensing element cannot be heated by the pilot
flame. This will prevent the safety valve from opening and
allowing gas to flow through the oven-burner orifice.
d. Set the oven control to 400 °F.
e. Apply soapy water to the safety-valve gas-
input-line connections to check for leaks.
f. When you are certain that the connec-
tions are properly seated, turn the oven
control to off.
g. Shut off the gas supply.
8. After performing the leak test, replace the var-
ious components by reversing the removal
procedure.

NOTE: When replacing the safety-valve sensing element, be
sure it has been inserted through both holes and is resting
against the stop tab of the oven-pilot assembly before tightening
the retaining screw. If the sensing element (capillary tube) is
kinked or out of place, it will not function properly. Any damage
to the sensing element will require replacing the entire safety
valve. Individual parts of the safety valve cannot be repaired or
replaced.
Cleaning the Wedgewood/Atwood Pilot Orifice
The Wedgewood/Atwood oven-pilot orifice is a com-
mon area of blockage and should be cleaned peri-
odically. To do this:
1. Set the oven control to off.
2. Turn off the gas supply.
3. Remove the oven rack and the oven bottom.
4. Disconnect the oven-pilot-assembly gas-
input line.
5. Remove the oven burner.
6. Using a small screwdriver (inserted through
the hole in the back of the pilot assembly),
pop the orifice out of the pilot assembly.
7. Thoroughly clean soot and other foreign
matter from the orifice. Use a toothpick to
clean the small hole in the orifice and any
clogged ports in the oven burner.
8. Make sure the pilot-assembly gas-input line
is clean and free of obstructions.
9. Replace the orifice in the pilot assembly.
10. Replace the burner.
11. Reconnect the pilot-assembly gas line.
12. Turn on the gas supply.
13. When you are certain no leaks exist, check
the operation of the oven.
Wedgewood/Atwood Thermostat Replacement
The Wedgewood/Atwood thermostat is quite diffi-
cult to replace. Check the safety valve and oven-pi-
lot orifice before deciding to change the thermostat.
If the thermostat must be replaced as shown in Fig-
ure 15.11, page 15.13):
1. Set the oven control to off.
2. Turn off the gas supply.
CHAPTER 15 Ovens and Ranges 15.17
3. Remove the range top and all top burners.
NOTE: On models with a range pilot, remove the two
screws that secure the pilot assembly to the burner box.
4. Disconnect the gas-supply-line input con-
nection to the manifold.
5. Remove all screws that secure the range to
the cabinet or wall.
6. At the manifold, remove both gas lines to
the thermostat.
7. At the rear wall of the oven interior, just
under the flue opening, remove the thermo-
stat capillary tube from the tension clip.
8. Slide the range forward enough to feed the
capillary tube through the entry hole in the
oven's rear wall up through the rear vent
trim of the burner box.
9. Remove the manifold from the burner box.
10. Remove the bolts securing the thermostat to
the manifold.
11. Connect the new thermostat to the mani-
fold. Torque to 20 to 25 inch-pounds.
12. Reinstall the manifold in the burner box.
13. Carefully feed the capillary tube back into
the oven and replace in the tension clip
so that it is directly centered beneath the
flue opening.
NOTE: If the capillary tube is kinked or out of place, it
will not function properly. Any damage to the capillary tube
requires replacing the whole thermostat. Individual parts of
the thermostat cannot be repaired or replaced.
14. Continue reassembling the range by revers-
ing the removal procedure.
15. After reconnecting the gas-supply line to the
manifold, replace all the top burners.
16. Turn on the gas supply.
17. Set the thermostat control knob to
pilot on.
18. Light the pilot(s).
19. Coat all connections with a soapy-water
solution. Be sure to include the thermo-
stat to manifold, the pilot(s), and the oven
safety-valve gas lines, as well as the gas-
supply-input connection.
20. Using soapy water, check for indication
of leaks.
WARNING: If leaks occur at any connection, turn the
thermostat control knob to off and shut off the gas supply
before tightening or reseating any connection. Then repeat
the leak test after repairs have been completed.
15.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

21. When you are certain there are no leaks, check
oven operation.
Wedgewood/Atwood Piezo Field Repair
7. Replace the piezo knob, aligning the flat on
the shaft with the flat in the knob.
8. Turn the piezo knob through a full rotation
(six clicks) to test for proper operation of
the unit.

If the piezo unit fails to operate, it may require a field

repair. This should take about twenty minutes.
1. Determine whether or not the piezo knob
should be replaced. The correct knob (part
number 56095) has either white or black
directional arrows molded in. If the knob
does not have these arrows, remove the knob
and steel insert and discard both; replace
with the proper knob. If the knob does have
the proper markings, remove it and set it
aside for reinstallation later.
2. Remove the two screws that hold the piezo
unit to the back of the panel.
3. Push the piezo unit into the burner box.
4. If the oval decal partially blocks the round
hole in the panel, use a utility knife to trim
the decal to the same size as the hole in
the panel.
5. Inspect the piezo unit. If the shaft falls
through the piezo housing, install a new “C"
dip (part number 56903) by snapping it
onto the slot in the shaft. Make sure the shaft
cannot fall through the piezo housing.
6. Reinstall the piezo housing on the rear of the
control panel, using the two screws previ-
ously removed. Do not overtighten the
screws, because it is possible to strip the
threads in the housing.
Additional Oven and Range
Safety Cautions
1. In the event you smell gas:
a. Evacuate all persons from the RV.
b. Close the gas valve at the
cylinder(s)/tank.
c. Extinguish any open flame.
d. Open all windows.
e. Don't touch any electrical switches.
f. Find and correct the source of the leak.
2. Never use the stove or oven as a space heater.
3. Make sure a window or exhaust vent is open
when using the stove.
4. Do not modify any of the stove components.
5. Insure that pilot lights are turned off before
moving the RV.
■ RANGE HOODS ■
Range hoods are fairly basic appliances, made of
sheet metal, with a 12-volt DC light and ventilation-
fan-assembly components as the only parts requir-
ing periodic attention (Figure 15.16). Simple as the
system may be, it is one of the areas of the RV that
quickly becomes dirty with greasy cooking residue.
Frequent cleaning is important.

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE R A N G E - H O O D F A N A N D L I G H T

Problem Possible Cause Correction

No power to fan or light Blown fuse Check the fuse; replace if
necessary
Faulty switch Check switch for continuity;
replace if faulty
Power to fan, but still won't work Faulty fan motor Replace fan motor
Power to light, but still won't work Faulty light bulb Replace bulb

Figure 15.16 Range hoods are usually equipped with a 12-volt DC fan, a light, and a filter.
Hood Cleaning
All surfaces of the hood should be thoroughly cleaned
on a regular basis, with special attention given to the
corners and more inaccessible recesses. As grease
from cooking builds up, it attracts dust and dirt like
a magnet, and soon the hidden nooks and crannies
of the hood become very dirty.
Warm, soapy water and a soft cloth or sponge are
usually sufficient for cleaning. But if grease has been
permitted to build up over time, it may be necessary
to use a stronger solution, such as a grease-cutting
ammonia cleaner. After cleaning is completed, fol-
low with a soft cloth to dry the hood. This will help
remove water spots and any residue that may be left.
The part of the hood that collects the greatest
amount of grease is the aluminum mesh filter element
designed to trap grease as the ventilation fan is ex-
pelling steam, smoke, odors, and greasy air from the
cooking area. To clean the filter, remove it from the
hood and soak it in warm, soapy water. Swish the
filter back and forth in the soapy water to encourage
the grease to dissolve. Don't try to scrub the grease
from the filter since this will only damage the alu-
minum screen. A soft brush may be of benefit, if used
very gently. After washing, rinse thoroughly under a
stream of clean water, shake dry, and then replace.
If, despite your best efforts, the filter is too clogged
CHAPTER 15 Ovens and Ranges 15.19
with grease and dirt to be cleaned, replace it with a
new element, it is inexpensive and available at most
RV supply stores.
While the filter element is out of its holder, wipe
the fan clean. This is a 12-volt DC appliance, so there
is no possibility of electric shock hazard.
Fan-Motor Replacement
If the fan motor is faulty, buy a new one before re-
moving the old one. This will help prevent confu-
sion during the replacement procedure because you
can study the original and keep it fresh in your mind
as you install the new unit.
1. Disconnect 12-volt DC power to the fan by
either removing the fuse from the fan circuit
or removing the cable from the battery posi-
tive terminal.
2. Remove the grease filter from the hood,
exposing the fan.
3. Remove the screws holding the fan in place.
4. Disconnect the fan lead wires (cut if
necessary).
5. Connect new fan wires. If the original wires
were cut, use high-quality butt connectors to
reinstall.
6. Install the new fan by reversing the procedure.
15.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
 ■ CHAPTER 16
MICROWAVES
AND ICE MAKERS
Small appliances, such as microwave ovens and ice
makers, have made life so much easier at home
that it made sense for the RV industry to pick up on
this trend. The microwave oven has become almost as
common as the kitchen sink in RVs. Although
microwaves and ice makers require little maintenance,
there are a few problems that can arise. Microwave-
oven maintenance is a very sophisticated science and
should be left to a qualified service technician.
Microwave ovens are very sensitive to voltage spikes
due to erratic AC generators or surges in campground-
hookup power, and should be safeguarded by a high-
quality electronic surge protector similar to those used
for computers. Because microwave ovens mounted
in RVs are in a much harsher environment than in
homes and are subject to vibrations and bouncing,
they should be checked frequently for leakage. Com-
mercial meters are available for this purpose.
Convection ovens are normally integrated with
the microwave, but can be found as gas-oven re-
placements in some RVs. A convection oven contains
an electric heating element similar to those found in
electric ovens. A high-speed fan circulates the heated
air within the oven to provide cooking temperatures.
One of the benefits of a convection oven is the abil-
ity to "brown" foods for a more appetizing appear-
ance. The convection heating element and fan unit
are not user-serviceable.
Ice makers can be integrated with the refrigerator
or purchased as separate appliances. They should be
equipped with an in-line water filter to protect the
system from harsh chemicals and the bad taste as-
sociated with treated water. Unless the RV has a high-
■
amperage power inverter, ice makers will only oper-
ate when the AC generator is running or when the
rig is hooked up to campground power.
■ MICROWAVE OVENS ■
Theory of Microwave Cooking
Microwave ovens operate on radio frequency (RF).
When the correct frequency is directed at food or liq-
uid, it causes the molecules of food to oscillate, which
produces heat. The radio frequency employed in a
microwave oven is 2,450 mHz, which falls within
the radio broadcast band, not the X-ray band.
Food is cooked when the RF energy strikes mol-
ecules of food and causes them to agitate as the mol-
ecules try to align themselves with the 2,450 mHz
RF energy. Because the energy of 2,450 mHz changes
polarity every half cycle due to its half-wave dou-
ble/rectifying circuit, the food molecules also change
every half-second. This makes the food molecules
oscillate 4,900,000 times per second. Oscillation
causes friction, which creates a substantial amount
of heat energy for cooking.
Microwaves are reflected by metal (which is why
the walls of the oven cavity are metal), but they pass
through materials such as paper, glass, plastic, and
ceramic. Food and liquids absorb microwave energy.
Microwaves penetrate about 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches of food,
depending upon the food's density. Heat to complete
the cooking process is transferred throughout the
remainder of the food by conduction. Heat buildup
16.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
takes place only within the food, but the oven cav-
ity or the cookware may warm up as heat transfers
from the food.
The oven cavity is made of metal so that it can
contain and reflect microwaves back to the food.
With a glass cooking shelf positioned above the oven
floor on which food can be placed for cooking, mi-
crowaves can reflect from the oven floor to the un-
derside of the food as well.
Microwave Components
Components typically found in a microwave oven
include the following (Figure 16.1):
■ A cabinet to enclose all working parts of
the oven
■ A door that swings either on a hinge system
or on pins. The door must be precisely
aligned and adjusted to prevent microwave
leakage.
■ A timer and cooking-level (temperature)
control panel
■ A magnetron, which produces the radio
frequency for cooking
■ A blower to cool the magnetron
■ A stirrer to assure even distribution of
microwave energy within the oven cavity
■ Interlocks to prevent the oven from operating
when the door is open
* Various electrical components—a transformer,
a relay, a diode, a fuse, and a capacitor
Troubleshooting and Service
Because of the highly technical nature of microwave
ovens, owners should seek professional service when
problems with the oven arise.
CAUTION: The training and equipment necessary to properly trou-
bleshoot and service microwave ovens are generally beyond the reach
of the overage owner; improper service can be very dangerous. The in-
formation in this book is designed to educate the owner to the various re-
pair procedures so that he or she can better communicate with the service
technician. The microwave-oven case should never be tampered with.
Owner maintenance should be limited to cleaning, checking for leak-
age, lubricating the door hinge, and changing the light bulb.
All procedures described and illustrated in this
section apply to Magic Chef microwave ovens. Al-
though the procedures may be similar for other
brands, refer to the respective manufacturers' service
manuals for specific details regarding service.
Maintenance
Cleaning
Always unplug the oven before cleaning. Clean the
outside and inside of the oven using a soft cloth and
nonabrasive detergent and warm water; rinse well.
With a soft cloth, dry the inside top, side, and back
walls of the oven cavity, as well as the cooking shelf.
Never use chemicals, such as commercial oven clean-
ers or alcohol, and avoid the use of abrasives, such
as cleansing powders, steel wool, or plastic scrubbing
pads. Wipe spills off the interior components with a
damp cloth as soon as they occur. If left unattended,
accumulated spills will dry and become difficult to
clean up. Spilled food can cause damage to some com-
ponents. For example, the door-seal plate and
polypropylene cover in the oven cavity can bum if ex-
cess grease or food has carbonized on them.
Most foods can be removed easily with glass cleaner
or soap and warm water. To remove dried-on foods,
place 1/2 cup of water in the oven and heat it on high
for three to five minutes. The steam will soften dried-
on foods, and they will wipe away more easily.
The glass oven floor can become scorched from
the high temperature generated from the bottom
of a browning dish. These stains can be removed
by using Bar Keeper's Friend or Bon Ami cleanser.
After using these products, rinse and dry thoroughly.
Do not use cleansers on any other surface of the
oven.
The probe should be cleaned by wiping it with a
damp cloth as soon as possible after using. If food
is baked on, rub very gently with a plastic scouring
ball. Rinse and dry.
Lubrication
Twice a year, it is recommended the door hinge be
sprayed lightly with WD-40 or some comparable
Figure 16.1 Magic Chef microwave oven (exploded view)
CHAPTER 16 Microwaves and Ice Makers 16.3
16.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
product. Also at this interval, the tip of the oven door
latch should be lightly coated with Lubriplate. Ap-
ply lubricant sparingly and wipe up any excess. Never
use any lubricant that contains silicone (Figure 16.2).
Oven Light Replacement
On all Magic Chef and many other brands of mi-
crowave ovens, the oven lamp is accessible through
an access cover in the upper section of the oven cav-
ity; it's in the upper right rear of the oven cavity in
the Magic Chef microwaves (Figure 16.3). To replace
the bulb:
1. Unplug the oven.
2. Remove the access cover.
3. Remove the light bulb.
4. Replace with any similar 25-watt bayonet-
base bulb rated for 115-130 volts.
5. Replace the access cover and secure with a
1/4 inch hex screw.
Removing the Oven Cabinet
To remove the oven cabinet, follow these steps (Fig-
ure 16.4):
Figure 16.2 The microwave-oven door hinge should be lubricated with WD-40 (or similar product) twice a
year; Lubriplate is used on the latch.
1. Be certain the oven is unplugged.
2. Remove the screws from the back panel.
3. Spread the sides slightly from the bottom edge.
4. Slide the cabinet back to free the notched front
edge from the front frame.
5. Lift the cabinet off.
Testing for Microwave Leakage
By using one of the following RF survey meters, you
can test the oven periodically for microwave leakage.
Holiday Industries Model 1500
Holiday Industries Model 1501
Holiday Industries Model 1700
Holiday Industries Model 1800
NARDA Model 8100
NARDA Model 8200
Simpson Model 380
Radio Shack Microwave Meter
To test for leakage, follow this procedure:
1. Fill an eight-ounce Styrofoam cup with water
and place it in the center of the oven cavity.
2. Close the oven door; turn the oven on to a
full (100-percent power) cooking mode.
 CHAPTER 16 Microwaves and Ice Makers 16.5

Figure 16.3 Removing the microwave-oven interior light bulb

Figure 16.4 The microwave-oven cabinet should only be removed by a qualified service technician.
16.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
3. While the oven is operating, check around the
perimeter of the oven door and in the window
area with the meter's probe. Move the probe at
a rate of about one inch per second.
4. When the point of maximum leakage is lo-
cated, rotate the probe until a peak reading is
obtained. Then apply pressure to the door
edge to see if the peak reading increases. The
peak reading should not exceed 5 mw/cm2.
5. If the test indicates that the leakage is lower
than the 5 mw/cm2 level, the oven is operat-
ing normally and no repairs or adjustments
are necessary.
6. If the test indicates that the leakage is greater
than the 5 mw/cm2 level, the oven should be
repaired by an authorized service technician
before any further use.
Door Adjustment
To adjust the microwave oven door (Figure 16.5):
1. Place the oven on its back.
2. Loosen the top- and bottom-hinge bracket
nuts/hinge screws.
3. Align the top, bottom, and left edges of the
door with the front frame.
4. Jiggle the door slightly to be sure it is lying
flat against the front frame and that the sec-
ondary seal is not riding up on the sides of
the choke.
5. Tighten the hinge-bracket nuts/hinge screws.
6. Test for microwave leakage.
If the door leaks at or near a comer on the latch
side, loosen the hinge-bracket nut and hinge screws
across the door diagonally from the leak and slide
that pinned or hinged corner outward slightly, then
retighten.
If the leak is on the pinned or hinged side of the
door, loosen the hinge-bracket nuts/hinge screws and
adjust the door slightly closer to the front frame in
that area, then retighten.
If the leak is on the latch side of the door, add a
latch-bracket shim of appropriate thickness between
the interlock-switch bracket and the front frame.
Recheck for leaks.
Replacing the Stirrer Cover
To replace the stirrer cover:
1. Open the door fully.
2. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to pry the
plastic inserts loose from the stirrer cover
through the oven cavity front opening.
3. Remove the stirrer cover through the oven
cavity front opening.
4. To replace the stirrer cover, reverse procedure.
Replacing the Stirrer
The stirrer is located in the top of the oven between
the stirrer cover and the top of the oven cavity (Fig-
ure 16.6).
1. Unplug the oven.
2. Remove the oven cabinet.
3. Remove the stirrer cover.
4. Remove the drive belt from the pulley and
fan-motor shaft.
5. Remove the cotter pin holding the stirrer in
the oven cavity from the stirrer shaft.
6. Remove pulley and shaft, noting the positions
of the washer, the spacers, and bushings.
7. When replacing the stirrer, make certain the
blades are not out of line, causing them to hit
the top of the oven or cover.
8. Be sure the stirrer and the pulley turn freely.
9. To replace any component in the stirrer as-
sembly, reverse procedure.
Replacing the Oven Shelf
Most often, shelf breakage is a result of improper use
of the oven. This can occur if the oven is operated
without being properly cleaned. Grease and food de-
posits can carbonize, causing the oven to arc. This
results in extreme heat on some areas of the oven
shelf, causing the glass to melt or crack. The same
problem can be caused by improper use of aluminum
foil or use of metal pans or containers in the oven.
To replace the oven shelf, follow these steps (Fig-
ure 16.7):

Figure 16.5 The Magic Chef microwave oven-door adjustment
1. Using a hook-type knife, such as a linoleum
knife, cut the sealant all around the oven shelf.
2. Remove the old shelf and clean out all chips
and debris that have fallen to the oven floor.
3. It is not necessary to remove all the old
sealant from inside the oven.
4. Hold the edge of the deeply grooved plastic
trim strip (supplied with the new shelf) over
the turned-back flange on the edge of the
oven front. Position the beveled edge up and
toward the front.
5. Lay a small bead of RTV-102 White Silicone
Rubber Adhesive behind the beveled edge of
CHAPTER 16 Microwaves and Ice Makers 16.7
the plastic trim strip; then put the edge of the
new shelf behind the beveled edge, forcing the
RTV up along the edge, making a good seal.
6. Lower the new shelf onto the support studs
in the back of the oven cavity.
7. Seal the shelf in place by applying a bead
of RTV-102 White Silicone Rubber Adhesive
on the back and side edges of the oven shelf.
8. Wipe away any excess adhesive with a damp
cloth so that a smooth fillet is formed be-
tween the shelf and the walls of the oven
cavity on the sides and the back. Wipe away
any excess adhesive on the front edge.
16.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 16.6 Magic Chef microwave-oven stirrer assembly
■ ICE MAKERS ■
Automatic ice-cube makers are designed to provide
a continuous supply of ice cubes. Ice makers can be
found inside the freezer compartments in a number
of models of refrigerators, or they can be freestand-
ing. Normally, these machines require very little at-
tention, but routine care will insure that they function
at maximum efficiency (Figure 16.8).
General Operation
The ice maker must be installed level with the vehi-
cle floor; otherwise the cubes will be larger at one
end of the trough than the other and will take longer
to eject into the ice bucket. Also, if the unit is tipped
toward the rear, a condition known as frostback
occurs on the suction line and the cubes will not
be able to eject. To insure a level installation, the unit
(freestanding models; those in the freezer compart-
ments should be okay as long as the refrigerator is
installed fairly level) must be checked with a level
gauge placed along the inside of the ice-maker mold
itself, not on top of the cabinet.
The stand-alone unit must have ventilation. If a
free flow of air is not permitted through the grill, the
compressor may run all the time, the cubes may stick
together excessively, the unit may produce too few
ice cubes, and the machine may demand frequent
defrosting. Do not limit air circulation by installing
the unit behind closed doors.
Because the ice-cube maker is connected to a
water-supply line, it is possible that particles of scale
or dirt may be dislodged from the line. This will pro-
duce dirty or discolored cubes. For this reason, it is
recommended that all the cubes produced during
the first 24 hours of initial operation of a new ma-
chine be discarded.
When the cube bin is full, the ice maker will au-
tomatically shut off, but the refrigeration unit will
continue to operate to prevent the cubes from melt-

Figure 16.7 Replacing the oven shelf in the Magic Chef microwave oven
ing. Even though it is common for cubes to stick
together, they are easy to separate by hand or by strik-
ing with a blunt object.
CAUTION: Do not use a sharp object such as an ice pick or knife to
separate the cubes, since damage to the plastic interior of the machine
could result.
CHAPTER 16 Microwaves and Ice Makers 16.9
Maintenance
When cleaning the ice maker, do not use solvents or
abrasive cleaning agents that can impart an odor or
flavor to the cubes. The exterior may be treated with
mild cleaners and furniture polish. Clean the interior
16.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 16.8 The Dometic automatic ice maker (exploded view)

with a soft, damp cloth. The ice bucket may be washed
with warm, soapy water, but should be rinsed thor-
oughly and then dried to prevent the taste of soap in
future cubes. Do not use hot water; this causes cubes
to stick.
The condenser (stand-alone units), behind the
grill, should be cleaned three to four times a year.
If the ice maker is not used regularly, empty it pe-
riodically (every week to ten days) to maintain a sup-
ply of fresh cubes.
The ice maker should be defrosted periodically.
When defrosting, leave the door propped open a few
inches to permit air circulation.
When the ice maker is shut down after a trip, the

on/off switch should be turned to the off position.
All remaining ice should be removed and the inte-
rior wiped dry. The door should be propped open a
few inches to allow air to circulate inside the ice
maker to prevent odors, mold, or mildew.
Once a year, or more often if necessary, shut off
the water supply and remove the brass nut on the
water-inlet valve. Use a toothbrush to clean sediment
from the inlet screen. This will help prevent sedi-
ment and impurities from clogging the water line.
Ice-Maker Adjustments
To set a colder temperature, move the adjustment
screw one-quarter turn clockwise. To set a warmer
temperature, turn the adjustment screw counter-
clockwise. When the temperature is colder, ice cube
production slows down.
To adjust the amount of water permitted to en-
ter the mold where the ice cubes are made, turn the
water-fill adjusting screw (Figure 16.9). One full turn
clockwise diminishes the amount of water allowed
into the mold by 18 cubic centimeters. One full turn
counterclockwise increases the amount of water al-
Figure 16.9 One full turn clockwise in the Dometic ice maker diminishes the amount of water entering the
mold by 18 cubic centimeters.
CHAPTER 16 Microwaves and Ice Makers 16.11
lowed into the mold by 18 cubic centimeters. In this
manner, cube size can be regulated. If the ice cubes
do not eject easily from the mold, they may be too
large; turn the water-fill adjusting screw to decrease
the amount of water in the mold to a total of 120
cubic centimeters, or 4.5 ounces.
Component Replacement
Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the ap-
pliance service cord from the power supply, or turn
off the refrigerator.
Ice-Stripper Replacement
To replace the ice stripper:
1. Remove the ice maker from the cabinet.
2. Remove the retaining screw at the back of
the mold.
3. Pull the stripper back to disengage from the
front of the mold.
4. Replace in reverse order.
16.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE ICE M A K E R

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Machine fails to operate Lack of power Check power supply

Compressor fails to start
Cube maker fails to fill with water
Ice maker will not eject frozen cubes
Water fails to freeze
Water in ice bucket
On/off switch
Temperature control
Relay or overload
Control
Water supply
Solenoid water valve
Water-valve switch
Cubes too large
Faulty limit switch
Faulty control
Frost buildup
Mold heater
Holding switch
Cube-maker motor
Shutoff-arm switch
Cam
Fan motor
Temperature control
Refrigeration system
Dirty condenser
Unit not level
Poor gasket seal
Water-valve switch
Check on/off switch for continuity in "on"
position. Replace if defective.
Check temperature control for continuity
when cube maker contains water only.
Replace if defective.
Bypass relay and overload by using test
cord on compressor, replace if defective.
Check control. Replace if defective.
Check water supply at inlet of solenoid
water valve
Check screen and clean if needed. Also
check valve coil by energizing terminals
with test cord
Check switch for continuity
Defrost machine; remove some water from
tray; adjust water fill to 120 cubic centime-
ters, or 4.5 ounces
Test switch for continuity. Replace if
necessary.
Test control for continuity. Replace if
defective.
Defrost; remove some wafer from cube
tray with cloth; check door gasket seal.
Check for continuity. Replace if defective.
Check for continuity. Replace if defective.
Use test cord to energize motor leads.
Replace if motor is dead or internal gear
is stripped
Check for continuity. Replace if defective.
Check if loose wire has jammed in cam
Check fan motor. Replace if not working
while compressor is running.
Test continuity through terminals 2 and 3
on control; clean internal contacts or
replace control
Have system serviced by authorized shop
Clean lint and dust from condenser
Level unit
Check door gasket for proper seal
Check switch. Replace if defective.
 CHAPTER 16 Microwaves and Ice Makers 16.13

■ TRO UBLESHO O TIN G ■

THE ICE MAKER, continued

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Ice maker freezes up Poor door seal Check door gasket for proper seal
Water splashing out of mold into bucket Turn down water-fill adjusting screw
Leak through electric solenoid valve Replace electric solenoid valve
Failure to make ice Frozen ejector blades Defrost machine
Power supply off Check power supply, including power cord
to wall socket
Water supply off Check water supply
Defective cold control Check and replace if necessary
Failure to stop making ice Shutoff-arm switch Replace switch if defective; free switch arm
if frozen in ice or if stuck under the
freezing fray
Not making enough ice Improper cold control setting Lower the cold-control setting
Cubes too large Turn down water-fill adjusting screw
Inoperative fan motor Check and replace if necessary
Dirty condenser coil Clean coil
Excessive water Water-valve switch Adjust downward
Faulty control Check and replace if necessary
Leak through solenoid valve Check solenoid valve and replace if
necessary
Water keeps running Faulty water valve switch, solenoid valve, Check components and replace any that
cold control are defective
Compressor knocks Machine not level Level unit
Faulty compressor Replace compressor
Fan motor not running Check fan motor. Replace if necessary
Compressor runs continually Control setting too cold Reset cold control to warmer setting
Dirty condenser Clean condenser coils
Improper ventilation Insure that grill is not blocked;
relocate ice maker if necessary.
Ejector motor runs, but ejector blades Stripped gear in ejector motor Replace ejector motor
do not turn
Ejector motor and blades turn continually Defective cold-control or holding switch Check and replace control or switch
as necessary

Fill-Trough and Bearing Replacement 4. Pull from the back to detach from the mold
and ejector blades.
To replace the fill trough and the bearing: 5. Replace in reverse order.

1. Remove the ice stripper.

2. Push the retaining tab away from the mold. Ejector-Blade Replacement
3. Rotate counterclockwise until the trough
is clear. To replace the ejector blades:
16.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
1. Remove the ice stripper.
2. Remove the fill trough and bearing.
3. Force back and up to detach from the
front bearing.
4. Place a small amount of silicone grease on
the bearing ends of the replacement.
5. Replace in the reverse order, insuring the
blades are in the same position as they were
originally.
Front-Cover Replacement
To replace the front cover:
1. Place a coin in the slot at the bottom of the
mold support and pry the cover loose.
2. To replace, be sure the retaining tabs inside
the cover are located on top and bottom,
then snap into place.
Mounting-Plate Replacement
To replace the mounting plates:
1. Remove the front cover.
2. Remove the three retaining screws that hold
the plate in place.
3. Carefully remove the plate, disengaging the
end of the shut-off-arm, noting the relative
position of the shut-off-arm spring.
4. Before replacing the plate, be sure all wiring
is in order and the shut-off arm-spring is
in place.
5. Replace in reverse order.
Motor Replacement
To replace the motor:
1. Remove the front cover.
2. Remove the mounting plate (three screws).
3. Disconnect the wiring.
4. Remove the two screws holding the motor.
5. Replace in reverse order.
Water-Valve-Switch Replacement
To replace the water-valve switch:
1. Remove the front cover.
2. Remove the three mounting plate screws.
3. Disconnect the wiring.
4. Remove the switch (two screws).
5. Replace in reverse order, making sure the
switch insulator is in place.
6. Check the water fill and adjust if necessary.
Holding-Switch Replacement
To replace the holding switch:
1. Remove the front cover.
2. Remove the three mounting plate screws.
3. Disconnect the wiring.
4. Remove the switch (two screws).
5. Replace in reverse order, making sure the
switch insulator is in place.
Shutoff-Switch Replacement
To replace shut-off switch (Figure 16.10):
1. Remove the front cover.
2. Remove the three mounting plate screws.
3. Raise the shut-off arm.
4. Disconnect the wiring.
5. Remove the switch (two screws).
6. Replace in reverse order.
Limit- (Thermostat) Switch Replacement
To replace the limit- (thermostat) switch:
1. Remove the front cover.
2. Remove the three mounting plate screws.
3. Loosen the limit-switch-clip mounting screw.
4. Disconnect the wiring and remove the limit
switch.
5. Apply Thermalastic (special gray putty sub-

Figure 16.10 Dometic automatic ice-maker-shutoff switch assembly
stance) to the sensing surface of the replace-
ment-limit switch and bond to mold.
NOTE: Do not use regular gray putty tape or similar
compounds. Contact appliance manufacturer for availability.
6. Replace in reverse order.
Mold-Heater Replacement
To replace the mold heater:
1. Remove the stripper (1 screw).
2. Remove the front cover.
3. Remove the three mounting plate screws.
4. Detach the limit switch from the mold.
5. Detach the heater leads.
6. Remove the mold from the support
(4 screws).
7. With a flat-blade screwdriver, pry the defec-
tive heater from the bottom of the mold.
8. Clean all Thermalastic from the groove in
the bottom of mold.
9. Apply new Thermalastic to the groove in
the mold.
10. Install the replacement heater, using four
screws in the holes adjacent to the heater
groove.
11. Replace the parts in reverse order of removal.
CHAPTER 16 Microwaves and Ice Makers 16.15
Control (Thermostat) Replacement
To replace the control in a stand-alone unit:
1. Remove the rear panels from the cabinet.
2. Remove the two mounting plate screws.
3. Remove the control from the plate (two
screws).
4. Remove the wires (three terminals).
5. Remove the control element from the upper
rear cabinet.
6. Straighten 12 inches of the element on the new
control to insert it into a small-diameter alu-
minum tube control well. The control will not
work if it is not inserted in the control well.
7. Assemble in reverse order.
Solenoid Water-Valve Replacement
To replace the solenoid water valve:
1. Shut off the water supply.
2. Remove the water connections from
the valve.
3. Remove the two mounting screws.
4. Remove the electrical connector.
5. Replace in reverse order.
16.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Timing-Cam Replacement
To replace the timing cam:
1. Remove the front cover.
2. Remove the large white plastic gear.
3. Remove the mounting plate.
4. Remove the plastic timing cam.
5. Lubricate the new cam with silicone
grease.
6. Assemble in reverse order.
Ice-Maker Replacement
To replace the ice maker:
1. Remove the formed rear panel.
2. Disconnect the six wires.
3. Use an Allen wrench to remove the two screws
holding the ice maker to the left-side wall.
4. Remove the three hex head screws from the
bottom of the ice maker.
5. Carefully pull the ice maker out of the cabinet.
6. Apply Thermalastic and assemble in reverse
order.
 ■ CHAPTER 17 ■
EXTERIOR CARE
AND REPAIR
Mother Nature has joined with the by-prod-
ucts of our industrial society in what seems
like a conspiracy to wreak havoc on our vehicles.
Sunshine oxidizes the paint and fades the color. It
shrinks and cracks vinyl, dries out and splits rub-
ber, and deteriorates upholstery fabric. Storms can
deliver an acid or alkaline bath (essentially the
acid-rain fallout of industry) to mar the exterior
finish. Rain creates mud to be splashed on the out-
side of the RV, underneath the RV, and tracked
inside. The wind carries dust, dirt, pollen, and myr-
iad airborne contaminants to deposit all over the
vehicle. And while all this is going on, the bugs and
birds are doing their part.
■ THE SYMPTOMS OF WEAR ■
Gradual deterioration of the exterior is a relentless
process. In this chapter, we will define the symptoms
of a vehicle in need of attention to exterior mainte-
nance and discuss how to go about providing ap-
propriate care. When using exterior-care products, it
is important to follow the directions on the package
because similar products may have different direc-
tions for use.
Oxidation
When exterior paint takes on a dull, lifeless, chalky
appearance, it is suffering from oxidation. This is a
gradual process in which oxygen combines with the
paint to form new chemical substances. The process
is speeded up by the bleaching action of the sun. The
end result is gradual deterioration of the surface.
The most effective way to slow down the progress
of oxidation is to keep the vehicle covered or garaged,
although this may not be practical for large RVs.
While oxidation may not be entirely preventable, it
is somewhat repairable by using products that re-
move the oxidized paint layer, thus exposing the fresh
paint beneath. Cleaner-waxes and finish restorers
will remove light oxidation. Glazes and rubbing com-
pounds remove the heavy stuff. Of course, using these
abrasive products eventually results in wearing the
paint down to bare metal, at which time it becomes
necessary to get a new paint job.
Acid/Alkaline Rain
Emissions from industrial, vehicle, and natural
sources introduce sulfur, sulfur dioxide, and nitric
oxide into the atmosphere. These chemicals can be
carried by wind for thousands of miles. When they
combine with water, they form sulfuric and nitric
acids, which can then fall as acid rain. Acid rain lit-
erally etches the painted surface of a vehicle.
Alkaline rain has a similar genesis and results in
the same destruction of vehicle surfaces, accelerat-
ing the oxidation process and leaving ugly blemishes.
Even waxed and poly-sealed surfaces are vulnerable.
Washing, waxing, and polishing won't help with
acid/alkaline blemishes. Special products are for-
mulated for this special problem.
17.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Scratches
Minor scratches may be removed by using a cleaner
or cleaner-wax, but deeper scratches will need a pol-
ishing compound, rubbing compound, or glaze.
These are abrasive products that remove top layers
of paint, blending the scratch into the surrounding
painted surface so it becomes less visible.
General Grime
Depending upon where you live and where you travel,
your vehicle may stay clean for quite a while or it may
be covered with dirt every time you turn around. Only
you can determine how often your vehicle needs a
general cleanup, but certainly bird droppings, insects
splattered on the outside, tree sap, road tar, and grime
will be good indicators of the need for attention.
Once clean, how long is it going to last? The an-
swer to that question depends upon the environ-
mental conditions where your RV is parked. If you're
fortunate enough to have a garage or cover for the
rig, you may not need to attend to it very often. But
it you're on the road a lot, drive newly resurfaced
or salted highways, bake in the Sun Belt, or nest be-
neath the trees in a sappy forest, you may need to
stock up on cosmetic products and keep a supply
of clean rags handy.
■ EXTERIOR CARE ■
Washing the Vehicle
Before doing anything else to your vehicle's exterior,
it must be thoroughly washed. But washing with
household detergents containing alkali or ammonia
can harm the surface. Special car-wash products have
been developed that will remove the dirt and grime
from a vehicle's surface without harming the previ-
ous wax job. Some products combine a wash-and-wax
job all in one process.
These products are liquid or powder concentrates
that are intended to be diluted in a pail of water. A
soft cloth, sponge, or wash mitt should be used, and
the vehicle should be washed in the shade to prevent
spotting. Never throw the washcloth, sponge, or mitt
on the ground when not in use; it can pick up small
rocks and other debris that can scratch the vehicle
surface when reused. Gently dry with a soft, clean
chamois or towel to avoid spots.
Exterior Finishing Products, Waxes,
Cleaners, and Polishes
Finish Restorers
In preparation for waxing the vehicle may need treat-
ment with a finish restorer if the finish has become
oxidized and dulled by grime. Milder than a rubbing
compound, a finish restorer will remove stubborn
grime and oxidation, allowing the true color of the
paint to show. Instructions for use vary with differ-
ent products, so read and follow the directions care-
fully. Typically, these products are applied gently in
a circular motion with a soft cloth. After drying, they
are buffed to remove residue. Hard rubbing is not
recommended.
Rubbing Compounds
For seriously deteriorated painted surfaces, rubbing
compounds should be used. These products will
remove layers of oxidized paint, minor scratches, and
stains. Extreme care must be employed when work-
ing with rubbing compounds, because if they are
used too vigorously, they will remove good paint
along with the bad. Rubbing compounds can also
be used to remove scratches, stains, or rust from
chrome finishes.
As always, work on clean, dry, cool surfaces. Ap-
ply rubbing compound sparingly and evenly rub-
bing in a straight line just enough to remove the
oxidized paint, stains, or scratches. Buff lightly with
a clean, dry cloth.
CAUTION: Do not use rubbing compounds on flat-black paint, wood
panels, vinyl, plastic, or fiberglass.
Waxes
Waxes are applied to the exterior of vehicles to pro-
tect the paint from the elements. The theory is to
let the wax, rather than the paint, take the beating
delivered by sun, wind, blowing dirt, bugs, and all

the rest. By keeping a healthy coat of wax between
the paint and the elements, the paint will last longer
and look better, and it's a simple job to renew the
wax periodically.
All wax manufacturers agree that prior to waxing,
the vehicle should be washed and cleaned of stub-
born grime. If the paint has suffered oxidation, some
wax containers specify that finish restorers be used
to prepare the surface for the final wax job.
Waxes should be applied to a cool vehicle surface
in the shade, using a clean, soft, damp, or dry (ac-
cording to package directions) terry cloth. Wax should
be applied briskly and in a circular motion, laying
down a thin, even coat to one section of the vehicle
at a time. A separate, soft, clean terry cloth should be
used to lightly buff the wax after it has had time to
dry to a haze. Turn the buffing cloth frequently and
shake out the residue as needed.
You can test the durability of a wax job by watch-
ing water bead on the surface. When rain or wash wa-
ter no longer beads, it's time to freshen up the wax job.
Combination Cleaner-Waxes
Cleaner-waxes are far milder than rubbing com-
pounds, yet they can remove minor stains and oxi-
dation. They offer a one-step process that leaves the
painted surface cleaned of dull oxidation and stains,
and coats it with a protective wax.
Begin with a clean, cool surface. Apply and finish
as you would a regular wax, following specific di-
rections for the product of your choice.
Polishes
Polishes are different from waxes. They are surface
preparations that leave a glistening shine, but do not
leave a wax layer over the paint. According to man-
ufacturer claims, polishing a vehicle provides supe-
rior protection to waxing.
As with wax application, polish should only be
applied with a circular motion to clean, dry, cool ve-
hicle surfaces. Oxidized paint will be removed by the
polish and retained in the polishing cloth, so it may
be necessary to keep several cloths on hand to per-
mit working with a clean cloth at all times. Overlap
areas being worked to insure thorough coverage of
CHAPTER 17 Exterior Care and Repair 17.3
all body panels. After the polish dries to a haze, re-
move residue by buffing with a clean cloth.
Polymer Sealant
Claims of secret formulas and spectacular results cir-
culate in this segment of the automotive-product
market. Polymer coatings are claimed to seal the ve-
hicle finish against everything from smog to bird
droppings. In theory, the formula actually bonds to
the painted surface of any vehicle, whether it be metal,
chrome, or fiberglass. It is not, however, intended for
use on vinyl, flat paint, plastic, decals, or synthetic
or painted wood.
Wash and dry the vehicle, but don't use house-
hold detergents or cleaners because they may cause
streaking. Apply poly sealant in a circular motion to
the entire vehicle surface. Allow to dry thoroughly
until a haze appears. Wipe off. Then, with a fresh,
dry cloth, buff vigorously.
Metal Polishes
To remove tarnish and minor corrosion, a metal pol-
ish is the product of choice. While there are simi-
larities between some of these products, directions
for use vary, so it is important to follow the instruc-
tions on the product package.
These products are rubbed gently onto the metal
surface being treated and then buffed off. Read the
instructions carefully, because some products spec-
ify that care must be taken to prevent the polish from
drying on the surface before being removed.
Tire Dressings
To restore a fresh look to aging tires that may have
rubbed against a curb or are just losing their snappy
appearance, there are tire protectants available that
can be used on both whitewall and blackwall tires.
Whitewalls and white lettering can be restored to
a fresh appearance by using products formulated specif-
ically for that job. Follow directions on the container
because they vary between products. Basically, the white-
wall restorer is sprayed or wiped on and scrubbed or
rinsed off, with a short curing duration in between.
17.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Tires subjected to the elements (especially strong
sunshine) should be treated every month with a good
protectant like 303. A good-quality protectant will
have UV blockers and help slow down cracking and
crazing and, in general, rubber compound break-
down. If the RV is going to be stored outside, cover
the tires with plywood or special covers made of vinyl.
Tires do not have to be lifted off the ground during
the storage period.
NOTE: Never use tire-care products that contain petroleum distil-
lates; they can soften the rubber and cause blistering of the material.
Wheel Cleaners and Polishes
Wheel cleaners come in liquid or paste form. The
liquid cleaners are easier to use because all that is re-
quired is to spray the product on the wheels, wait
about a minute, and then hose off with a strong
stream of water. Paste cleaners are applied much like
paste wax and require some rubbing and buffing.
However, stubborn grime may demand scrubbing,
even with the spray-on/hose-off liquid cleaners. And
some of the liquid cleaners employ a two-stage sys-
tem in which two solutions are used—the second
neutralizing the action of the first.
CAUTION: Not all types of wheels can be cleaned with all brands of
wheel cleaners. Some chrome cleaners will damage aluminum or mag-
nesium wheels, while other products are specifically formulated for these
materials. Read the labels carefully before you buy.
Degreasers
Some degreasers on the market are specifically for-
mulated to work on the warm surfaces of an engine
to melt the grime away, so working under the hood
isn't such a messy job. Others are "all-purpose" de-
greasers and cleaners that can be used to clean up
small areas wherever they are needed.
Labels offer directions for specific use. Often, the
products will be used full strength, but sometimes
they need to be diluted. Most often, degreasers are
sprayed on, then hosed or wiped off.
NOTE: Before washing a dirty motor with solvent, be sure that the
runoff is going to a sump designed to contain oils and solvents. Local laws
may preclude washing engines where runoff will go into public drains.
Also, use caution not to get any of this material on a painted surface or
where graphics are applied.
Glass Cleaners
The numerous glass cleaners on the market are all
used in the same manner. Simply spray on and wipe
off with a lint-free cloth or paper towel.
But normal glass cleaners should not be used on
windows to which a film-type window tint has been
applied. For this application, there are special nonabra-
sive plastic polishes formulated for use on window-tint
film, Plexiglas, and convertible-top windows. These
products are used by spraying them on a clean, dry
surface. They are then spread evenly with a dry cloth,
and the surface is buffed to a shine.
To remove bugs and other stubborn dirt from the
windshield when normal glass cleaners fail, use white
vinegar on a clean cloth. To remove tree sap, try bak-
ing soda. It isn't as abrasive as cleanser, but it will cut
through the sap.
Tar and Bug Removers
There is no substance as sticky and stubborn as road
tar, but bugs come close. Bug and tar remover is de-
signed to clean grease, bugs, and road oil from glass,
paint, and polished metal surfaces without damag-
ing the standard automotive paint. It is also effective
in cleaning tree sap from the finish.
Dampen a cloth with the bug and tar remover and
rub briskly over the grimy surface until it is clean.
Wipe with a clean, dry cloth to remove residue. To
restore the finish, reapply wax or polish.
An alternate method of removing road tar is to
use laundry prewash solution. It cuts the tar like
magic. Reapply wax or polish after use.
■ RUBBER-ROOF CARE ■
Rubber-roof (EPDM) material needs special care to
keep it clean and in good condition. A side benefit
of a clean rubber roof is the prevention of unsightly
streaks that can run down the RV's sidewalls.
Rubber roofs are glued to a wood decking (sub-
strate), which is usually plywood or lauan that's
around 3/8 inch thick. The continuous membrane is
attached to the wood using a water-based adhesive.
The termination moldings, seams around roof vents,
holding-tank vents, roof racks, ladders, and all other

accessories screwed into the decking are sealed us-
ing a self-leveling lap sealant. Only lap sealant de-
signed for rubber roofs can be used here. Do not use
this material on metal or fiberglass roofs.
One of the by-products of weathering is a white,
powdery substance (called chalking), which is oxi-
dation from prolonged exposure to the sun and other
destructive elements in the atmosphere. Chalking
poses no threat to the integrity of the material but
can cause unsightly streaking on the RV's sidewalls.
The roof should be checked regularly for chalk-
ing, deposits from trees or passing birds, and other
debris. It should also be inspected for small holes or
tears, especially around anything installed on the
roof. This includes all air vents, antennas, air con-
ditioners), the refrigerator vent, solar panels, and
any other extras the owner may have added.
To remove chalking, the rubber roof should be
cleaned with borax or other similarly mild abra-
sive cleaners and a medium bristle brush—and plenty
of water. Continue cleaning until no more white
residue is revealed.
CAUTION: Do not use any citric-bosed product or any product con-
taining petroleum distillates.
You may or may not have to treat the rubber roof
with a protectant. Rubber roofs are naturally resist-
ant to ultraviolet radiation, sun, and other outside
elements. If the chalking returns within a month or
two, the cleaning process should be repeated and the
surface treated with a good protectant like 303. If
your rig's roof has a tendency to chalk, repeat the
cleaning/protectant process at least once every six
months.
A rubber roof can maintain a good seal for a long
period. However, if the RV manufacturer was sloppy
and covered protruding or loose screws, pieces of
wood, or any other debris with the membrane, nor-
mal wear and tear will be accelerated, especially when
walking on it. The roof can also be cut or punctured
by sharp objects, such as low-hanging branches.
■ RUBBER-ROOF REPAIR ■
Rubber roofs are popular on RVs, but they don't last
forever. After several years of service, or accidental
contact with something that causes damage to the
roof, a rubber roof may need to be repaired or com-
pletely replaced.
CHAPTER 17 Exterior Care and Repair 17.5
Small repairs can be made by patching or by splic-
ing in a new piece of material to replace a damaged
section of an existing roof. The recommended
method is to cut a large round patch (round is the
preferred shape because it has no corners that can
be snagged and lifted), and simply glue it down us-
ing splicing adhesive. Rubber-roof repair kits, in-
cluding the proper EPDM material and adhesive, are
available at RV supply stores.
Once the area is cleaned thoroughly and dried,
the backing is removed and the patch is positioned
over the repair area. The top protective liner is then
removed and a 5/16 inch bead of lap sealant is applied
to the entire edge of the patch. Using the feathering
tool, the lap sealant is smoothed over, allowing for
a secure repair. The patch cannot be used over pre-
vious repairs or sealant.
Larger repairs can be made using kits containing
a 3-foot-square section of membrane, splice-cleaner,
and cement. The process does require more preci-
sion since the user must clean the area with soapy
water followed by an application of splice-cleaning
solution and a base coating of adhesive. Once dry,
an additional layer of splicing cement must be ap-
plied to the roof surface and membrane patch. The
user then affixes the membrane and finishes off the
repair with lap sealer.
Smoothing out a large section of membrane can
be a little tricky because you really don't get a sec-
ond chance once the material contacts the roof. Use
a 3-inch overlap when sizing the new membrane. In
all cases, the repair should be allowed to sit for two
hours before moving the vehicle.
The rubber roof should be carefully inspected
every time it is cleaned. If the lap sealant around the
roof-mounted accessories begins to crack or show
holes, you should apply new self-leveling mate-
rial. Mineral spirits should be used to remove any
dirt buildup on the old seals and then allowed to
dry for at least fifteen minutes before making the re-
pairs. When applying new lap sealant, make sure
the material touches the rubber roof (not already
sealed) and the accessory surface. This will insure
a tight seal.
Rubber roofs are designed to provide a water-
tight seal for many years. Under most conditions,
they serve their owners well, but only when own-
ers take the responsibility to keep them clean and
secure.
17.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ RUBBER-ROOF REPLACEMENT ■
To replace a rubber roof, or to install the material
over an existing aluminum roof:
■ Remove all roof vents, moldings, air condi-
tioners, etc.
■ Clean away any lap sealer.
■ Sweep the roof clean.
■ Dents or bumps on the roof will show
through the new roof material and will create pos-
sible points of wear. To eliminate these imperfec-
tions, install a layer of 1/4-inch plywood over the
existing roof. Cut the plywood to size and cut out
all the vent holes. Screw down the plywood (re-
cessing the screw heads), then use a belt sander to
eliminate sharp edges.
■ Apply the water-based adhesive to the top
surface of the plywood.
■ While the adhesive is still wet, roll out the
rubber sheet, starting from the front of the vehicle.
■ When the roof is completely rolled out, re-
move bubbles or wrinkles by lifting the edges.
■ Remove any air pockets with a broom or rub-
ber squeegee.
■ Do not stretch the roof material.
■ Use scissors to cut openings for vents, etc.
Avoid square cuts. Cut all corners with a curve to
eliminate the possibility of running-cuts at the cor-
ners.
■ At the front and rear of the coach, and along
the edges, install flat molding to secure the edge of
the rubber roof.
■ Use butyl rubber tape under all accessories
and moldings that come in contact with the rubber.
■ Apply lap sealant to seal around all vents,
molding screw heads, and where anything else has
been installed on the roof.
Complete rubber roof replacement kits are avail-
able at RV supply stores.
■ METAL- AND FIBERGLASS-ROOF CARE ■
One-piece roofs generally do not leak. However, the
seams and seals around the vents and accessories can
leak if they are not sealed right, using the proper ma-
terials. Never coat the entire roof surface with a seal-
ing material; repair only the seams and areas where
accessories are installed.
Before making any repairs, scrape off any old ma-
terial and clean the area with a good solvent. In most
cases, the thinner elastomeric sealers will work best
since they can find their way into the small cracks and
holes. The thicker material, usually formulated with
alkyd fibers, should only be used when attempting to
fill large holes, creases, or bows in the roof.
When installing new roof vents, holding tank
vents, or other accessories, use a good lap sealer over
the screw heads and around the seams.
CAUTION: Do not use silicone on the roof.
■ ALUMINUM CARE AND REPAIR ■
Aluminum RV exterior skin may be either raw metal
or painted. Care of the two surfaces is different in
some respects. Harsh abrasives should not be used
when cleaning unpainted aluminum because the
raw metal surface can become marred by fine
scratches. However, a painted aluminum surface
can be treated just as a painted steel surface because
it is the paint that is being treated and not the alu-
minum.
To care for and restore the luster of an unpainted
aluminum surface, begin by washing thoroughly with
a warm solution of automotive wash product. Do not
use strong detergents, solvents, or abrasive cleansers.
Wash during the cool of the day, in the shade or on
an overcast day. Never wash the aluminum skin in
direct sunlight.
Before washing, check to see that all windows,
vents, compartment doors, and entry doors are closed
tightly before washing. Use a large sponge or soft
cloth. Begin with the roof. Wash one section at a time,
then rinse to prevent the cleaning solution from dry-
ing on the surface. Dry with a chamois or soft, clean
towel to prevent water spots.
Road tar, sap, and bugs should be cleaned off as
soon as possible, before they can harden in place.
Use kerosene, turpentine, or naphtha with a soft
cloth, taking care not to scratch the surface. Rinse
thoroughly with clear water. Wax the affected
areas.
The painted aluminum skin should be waxed every
three to six months or more often if necessary, as de-
termined by exposure to the elements.
A painted aluminum skin should be washed and
cleaned of road tar, sap, and bugs, using the same

methods as for unpainted aluminum. When neces-
sary, oxidized paint can be treated by using a pol-
ish combination, cleaner-wax, or, in extreme cases,
a polishing compound. A good grade of automotive
wax should be applied every three to six months,
or more often if necessary.
Unpainted aluminum exterior siding used on cer-
tain RVs (Airstreams, for example) are treated with
a protective coating. You should not wax this surface.
- With the passage of time, the protective coating
may discolor, fade, or strip away in blotches. Be-
fore a new coating can be applied, the old mate-
rial must be etched off; this requires special
chemicals and a safe environment and should be
left to the professionals. The use of a polish or rub-
bing compound to make the surface shiny will
make the future application of the protective coat-
ing difficult, if not impossible. If you want to make
the surface shiny, keep in mind that you'll be a slave
to this surface forever.
Aluminum skin that has been physically damaged
cannot be repaired and must be replaced. Because
aluminum skin is made of large panels of material,
considerable work must be done to remove the dam-
aged panels and replace them with new material.
Emergency repairs can be made to prevent mois-
ture or dirt from entering the coach through a dam-
aged exterior wall. Use duct tape to close a puncture
or tear. If a panel has come loose, use sheet-metal
screws or wood screws (appropriate for the type of
coach framework) to secure the panel to the frame-
work until professional repairs can be made.
Replacing Aluminum Siding
The aluminum siding provides protection for the
framework of the RV without causing expansion or
contraction problems because of the way it is con-
structed (Figure 17.1). The siding does not rust but
does need some protection from the sun to keep the
finish from oxidizing, turning dull, and having the
decals (striping) or paint from fading. There are
dozens of protectants on the market designed to clean
and protect the finish, but in most cases, simple soap
and water will do the cleaning and normal auto-
motive wax will provide the protection. Keep prod-
ucts with petroleum distillates away from the stick-on
striping.
CHAPTER 17 Exterior Care and Repair 17.7
Repairing Damaged Aluminum Siding
Because of the configuration and design of the alu-
minum siding on most RVs, it is almost impossible
to repair small sections. RV siding comes in widths
of 10 to 18 inches and can be purchased in lengths
up to 40 feet. The manufacturer of your RV or your
local dealer is the best source for this material. Cost
is $3 to $4 per square foot, depending on the style,
texture, and paint, plus crating and shipping. Also,
if you need a colored section or one with a decal or
special striping, the cost will be higher. You will also
need to rent, buy, or borrow an industrial stapler/
nailer and special sheet-metal cutters so that the alu-
minum is not deformed when cut to size for the spe-
cific repair. Replacing the siding or, for that matter,
making repairs is not inexpensive.
The normal procedure is to gain access to the dam-
aged panel to be replaced by removing the adjacent
panels, starting from the bottom or top of the RV, de-
pending on which panel is closer. For example, if the
damaged panel is the third one from the bottom, you
will have to remove the two lower panels first. You will
also have to remove any trim, access doors, vents, door
stops, power outlets, water-fill inlets, water-heater ac-
cess doors, outside refrigerator-service doors, taillights,
and any other items that are attached to the sheet metal
being removed. (Figure 17.2)
The sheet metal is designed with an interlocking
flange at the top of each sheet (Figure 17.3). The
metal is stapled at the bottom of each sheet. To re-
move a single sheet, the metal must be exposed and
Figure 17.1 Aluminum siding is common on trail-
ers, fifth wheels, and campers.
17.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 17.2 Exterior door must be removed before
disassembling sheet metal siding.
the staples pulled from the bottom of the panel.
Then you lift the metal at the bottom and rotate it
in an upward or downward direction (Figure 17.4)
until the interlocking flange unhooks. In most cases,
you'll need a helper for this process. Gently remove
the panel from the side of the RV without kinking
or bending the metal. Remember that aluminum is
soft and will rip and bend very easily. Also be aware
that some manufacturers use glue to hold the joints
and corners of the sheet metal to the frame. On
some RVs, where the outside of the frame is cov-
ered with plywood, the manufacturer will simply
glue the panel to the wood, using a few staples to
hold the edges.
Figure 17.3 Sheet metal has an interlocking
flange at the top of each sheet.
NOTE: Always wear gloves when working with sheet metal.
After the skin has been removed from the RV, you'll
need to perform a careful inspection of the framing
to check for damage. Manufacturers use several dif-
ferent materials for framing RVs. If the frame is made
of aluminum, then you will be better off going to a
service center where there are technicians experienced
in welding that material. If the frame is wood, the
repair is much simpler. Wood-frame repair will de-
pend on the severity of the damage done to the side-
wall. You can, in fact, replace the entire frame if
necessary.
To replace the aluminum skin, the procedure is
basically the reverse of the removal. The metal is lifted
to the side of the RV and rotated until the locking
flange (Figure 17.3) connects with the upper panel
and then the panel is lowered until flush with the
frame. Extreme care must be taken to not bend the
panel; flex of only 1 to 2 inches will leave a perma-
nent crease in the sheeting. Follow the manufacturer's
original staple placement; glue where the adhesive
was originally used. Sealents must be applied to the
edges of the panels where they can be damped by the
moldings. Use butyl tape and silicone sealer, at-
tempting to follow the original construction proce-
dure.
The edge and comer moldings must cover the cor-
ners of the panels to prevent water from entering the
RV. Any doors, windows, service doors, and all other
accessories must be replaced into the original loca-
tions using fresh butyl tape (gray putty tape can also
be used if desired).
Figure 17.4 Once the staples are removed, the
sheet metal is rotated upward or downward.

■ REPLACING COMPARTMENT DOORS, ENTRY
DOORS AND WINDOWS ■
Compartment doors, entry doors and windows have
either square corners or radius corners, and care must
be taken to order the correct components when doors
are replaced. Fortunately, most radius corners vary
only slightly in size. A replacement door or window
with a smaller size radius can be used, if an exact re-
placement cannot be obtained. While doors are ei-
ther rectangular or square in overall shape, some
windows may be canted into a parallelogram shape,
requiring special measuring techniques.
The key to success is accurate measuring of the
rough hole, prior to purchasing the new door or win-
dow. The rough hole is the empty space left in the
side of the coach after the original door or window
and frame have been removed. It is a mistake to
assume that the rough hole is precise in any dimen-
sion, because most are not. When measuring length,
take three separate measurements along the straight
portion of the opening (top, middle, bottom) and
when measuring the height, repeat the process (side,
middle, side). Don't take measurements where the
side begins to curve through a radius. If there is a
variance, use the smallest of the three measurements
to order the new door and frame to avoid ending up
with a door or window that is too tight.
When ordering a replacement door or window
from a company such as All-Rite, note the type of
door (cargo, propane, entry etc.), the color and tex-
ture of the aluminum or fiberglass. Note also the
number and type of locks and handles, whether the
door is louvered or split and whether the frame is
painted or mill. Buying doors or windows with
painted frames will save time and labor later on.
Measuring Angled Windows
If the window to be replaced is not rectangular or
square, but is a parallelogram, it will be necessary to
determine the angle of the frame (Figure 17.5). Fac-
ing the window from the outside, draw out (extend)
the edges of the window through the comer until the
two lines intersect. Use a piece of poster board or
make these marks directly on the side of the coach
using a washable marker or pencil. Place the center
CHAPTER 17 Exterior Care and Repair 17.9
of a protractor at the intersection of the two lines,
with the zero of the protractor toward the windows
side. Read the angle across the top arc of the pro-
tractor. This is the angle of the window.
Installation
Fit the new door or window into the rough hole and
secure the frame. If the frame fails to completely
cover the putty marks from the old unit, use lacquer
thinner to clean off the old putty marks. Don't rub
too hard, or the finish may be damaged. After the in-
stallation, remove excess putty tape with an awl or
screwdriver. Finish by using a matching-color 100%
silicone caulk. Run a small bead of caulk around the
exterior, then wet a finger and trace the silicone. This
will spread the caulk slightly and add and additional
1/8-inch coverage to hide the difference in the radius
corners.
■ FIBERGLASS CARE AND REPAIR ■
Fiberglass comes in two varieties—painted and gel
coat. Gel-coat fiberglass has the pigment applied as
the fiberglass panels are manufactured. Routine main-
tenance of both types of fiberglass is the same: peri-
odic washing (always in the cool of the day or in
the shade) with an automotive wash product. Rinse
thoroughly to remove soap residue. Dry with a cham-
ois or soft, clean towel to prevent water spots. Apply
a coat of good automotive wax every three to six
months or more often if necessary to protect the sur-
face.
If damage occurs to a fiberglass surface, repair
is fairly easy. A repair kit can be purchased at RV or
Figure 17.5 Use a protractor to determine angles
of non-rectangular window frames.
17.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
marine-supply outlets.
Deep scratches can be repaired by applying a coat
of fiberglass resin, allowing it to cure, then sanding
it until it blends with the surrounding surface. An ex-
cellent product for surface repair is Marine Tex, avail-
able at boating-supply stores. This product is applied
with a putty knife and allowed to cure; then it can be
sanded, drilled, sawed, filed, and painted.
If the original fiberglass was painted, a coat of
touch-up paint will be necessary to make the repair
invisible. If the original surface was gel coat, the color
layer may not have been breached, and the clear resin
used for the repair may permit the original color to
show through, making further touch-up unneces-
sary. However, if the gel-coat layer is damaged, it may
be repaired with a gel-coat repair kit, available at
most marine and RV supply outlets
Touching Up Gel Coat
To perform touch-up work on gel coat, follow this
routine:
1. Select the proper color gel coat.
2. Brush or spray it on the damaged area.
3. Catalyze it with MEK (methyl ethyl ketone)
peroxide, according to the directions on the
container.
4. Cover the repair area with a sheet of plastic
food wrap to seal off oxygen penetration.
This is necessary because gel coat will not
cure in the presence of oxygen. Leave the
plastic wrap in place for six to eight hours (or
overnight if desired) at a temperature of 70 ° F.
5. After curing, remove the plastic wrap and
wet-sand the area with 320- or 400-grit sand-
paper. Follow this by buffing, polishing, and
applying paste wax.
To paint over a gel-coat surface, remove any wax,
sand the surface, and apply a coat of primer surfacer.
Sand the surfacer. Finish by applying paint in a color
to match the rest of the coach.
Repairing Severely Damaged Fiberglass
Severe damage, such as cracked or broken fiberglass,
is also easy to repair. Follow these steps:
1. Trim away excess broken pieces and restore
the remaining fiberglass to its original shape
as much as possible.
2. Grind, sand, and clean the surface of the area
to remove road grime, oil, and dirt.
3. Mix the fiberglass resin according to instruc-
tions on the product container.
4. Cut the fiberglass cloth large enough to cover
the area to be repaired and to overlap onto
surrounding solid fiberglass by a few inches.
If possible, apply a layer of fiberglass to the
back side of the damaged area to serve as
reinforcement. Then work on the exterior
repair.
5. Soak the fiberglass cloth in the resin, and ap-
ply the cloth over the surface of the area to be
repaired. Smooth it with a roller to help it
adhere well to the surface and to eliminate
bubbles. The resin will begin to cure immedi-
ately, so work swiftly but carefully. Allow the
resin to cure the full amount of time speci-
fied in the product instructions.
6. After the resin has fully cured, grind and sand
the area to make the repair patch blend with
the surrounding surface. Apply additional
layers of fiberglass as necessary until the re-
pair is built up to the original contour and
strength.
7. Grind and sand each layer before applying
the next, taking care to maintain the proper
body-panel contour. Use a block sander to
prevent ripples. After the final layer of fiber-
glass has been applied, cured, and sanded,
body filler may be used to blend the repair
work. To make the repair match the rest of
the coach, the area must be painted.
■ CAULKING AND SEALING ■
Age and the elements can dry and crack seam-seal-
ing caulk material, making it unsightly or even re-
sulting in leaks. Periodically inspect all seams and
joints to check on the condition of the caulking
compound. These areas are found on the roof,
around vents, where roof and sidewall panels meet,
around the screws used to secure accessories such

as roof ladders, along molding strips, and around
windows and door frames. If chunks of caulk are
missing or badly deteriorated, replacement is
advised.
Always clean, with a good solvent, the area where
the old caulking was applied. Use caution not to
allow any solvent to run down the sidewalls, soak
into the rubber-roof material, or penetrate deco-
rative striping. Although most manufacturers use
the thick, gray caulking tape, the black butyl tape
is much better. It seals better, is thinner and easier
to use, it's more sticky, and it will not ooze as badly.
Butyl tape is available in rolls in most RV supply
stores.
NOTE: Do not use silicone sealer as a replacement for tape-type
caulking.
■ MOLDINGS AND DOORS ■
Exterior trim moldings are often secured to the coach
with a double-sided adhesive tape. If the molding
begins to pull loose, it can often be repaired by sim-
ply replacing the tape and pressing the molding strip
back into place.
When cleaning the coach, take a moment to wipe
the dirt from the rubber weatherstrip gasket sur-
rounding the door. A shot of silicone lubricant helps
keep this gasket fresh.
Periodically inspect the hinges for loose screws.
Tighten if necessary. If the hinges squeak, lubricate
them with a light oil and wipe away any excess. An
occasional drop or two of lock lubricant with graphite
will help keep the locks operating freely.
Realigning a Door
Door misalignment can occur as a result of abuse,
improper installation at the factory, or normal wear
and tear. To realign a door:
1. Determine the cause of misalignment by
removing the inside door molding and mak-
ing a visual inspection to locate where the
door frame has shifted in relation to the
coach wall.
2. Loosen the screws that hold the aluminum
CHAPTER 17 Exterior Care and Repair 17.11
door frame to the RV framework. Work on
the hinge side of the door rather than the
latch side when making these adjustments.
3. Using 1/8 inch by 1-inch plywood shims,
return the frame to square by driving the
shims into the appropriate spaces between
the door frame and the stud. Continually
check the way the door fits in relation to the
frame, and make adjustments with the shims
until the fit is perfect.
4. Complete the job by tightening the screws to
secure the door frame to the coach wall, then
replace the molding.
■ SCREENS ■
Replacement of screen material is easy. The screen is
held in the frame by a round rubber gasket that is
pressed over the edge of the screen and into a groove
in the frame. Remove the gasket by carefully prying
it out of the groove with a flat-blade screwdriver. Use
the old screen intact as a pattern to cut a new piece
of matching screen material. Spread the new screen
material over the frame and reinstall the gasket. Gen-
tly press it into the groove to secure the screen ma-
terial. Take care to apply just enough tension on
the material so it doesn't tear but is tightly stretched
across the frame.
■ LADDERS, ROOF RACKS, AND ROOF VENTS ■
Periodically check the mounting hardware for tight-
ness and to insure that no cracks or breaks have oc-
curred. Inspect the caulk material used around the
mounting hardware, looking for possible breaches
in the seal. Repair as necessary.
Roof vents are subject to damage from wind, over-
hanging branches, and from being stepped on, kicked,
or having items dropped on them when loading cargo
onto the roof. They also suffer the natural effects of
age and the elements.
Periodically inspect the roof vents for cracks, splits,
or breakage. Check the caulking compound around
the seams and repair as necessary to prevent leaks.
Clean out pine needles, leaves, and other debris that
naturally collect there.
17.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Replacement of a vent cover is easily accomplished.
Simply remove the hardware (depending on the
brand and model of roof vent) that holds the vent
cover to the hinge; reinstall the vent cover using the
appropriate hardware. If you cannot find a replace-
ment cover—if it is no longer in production, for ex-
ample—replace the entire mechanism.
■ TRAILER A-FRAMES ■
There is very little that can go wrong with trailer
A-frames. Periodically inspect all the hardware at-
tached to the frame and tighten if necessary. The
frame should be washed to prevent the buildup of
road grime and dirt. Touch-up paint should be used
on all scratches and paint chips to prevent rust. A
coat of paste wax will help keep an A-frame clean
and protected from the elements.
■ AND WHAT ABOUT THE DRIVEWAY? ■
We might as well not stop until we've discussed ways
to clean up after a vehicle that drips an occasional
drop of oil or grease on the driveway.
Cat-box litter, spread out over the oil or grease
drip, will help absorb it. Spread it evenly over the oil
spot, sweep it back and forth to work it into the spot,
and leave it for a few days to do its work. Cat-box lit-
ter also helps remove odors from the garage.
Another solution to an oily garage floor is to use
dry cement. Scatter it over the spot, sweep it around
to work it in, then let it sit for a few days. The cement
will absorb the grease and oil, and when you sweep
it up, the spot will be gone. If it's not gone entirely,
give it another try. It will gradually disappear. There
are also commercially available grease, spot, stain,
and rust removers specifically formulated to work
on concrete and asphalt.
 ■ CHAPTER 18 ■
INTERIOR CARE
oil and stains are the worst enemies of any RV
S interior. Routine, thorough cleaning is the most
effective way to prevent damage to interior compo-
nents. Periodic use of a vacuum cleaner on every
dust-catching surface—blinds and drapes (employ-
ing a soft-brush attachment on the vacuum nozzle),
sofa and chairs, and carpet—will help keep the inte-
rior fresh and clean. This is especially important on
the carpet, which is vulnerable to dirt tracked in from
outside. Particles of dirt can work down into the pile
and cut the fibers, gradually wearing out the carpet.
Routine cleaning should also include the coun-
tertops, inside cabinets, vinyl flooring, fiberglass
tub/shower enclosure, porcelain or stainless-steel
sinks, all appliance surfaces (both inside and out),
and the wall paneling and woodwork. Allowing spills
or water to sit may lead to permanent stains or wa-
ter spots, so quick action is preferable.
■ CARPET AND UPHOLSTERY STAIN REMOVAL ■
Care must be taken when removing stains from car-
pet and upholstery fabric. You can't just attack with
hot water and strong cleaners or bleaches. The ma-
terial has been dyed to give it its color, and you don't
want to bleed out the dye. Also, most stains are set
by hot water, so unless cleaning instructions specif-
ically call for hot water to be used on a particular
stain, use cold water.
The general rule is to act quickly, rather than to
allow the spot or stain to dry and set. There are ex-
ceptions to this—drips of candle wax, for instance,
which are more easily removed after the wax has
hardened. But in most instances, spots need to be
given immediate attention.
The other general rule is to always try out the clean-
ing product on a small patch of the fabric or carpet be-
fore working on the main spots where they are visible.
How hard to scrub the spot depends upon the strength
of the material being cleaned. The last thing you want
to do is remove a patch of fabric along with the spot.
When cleaning a spot, always work from the out-
side edge of the spot toward the center. This prevents
spreading the spot out into a larger area. Keep plenty
of clean, absorbent materials (such as paper towels)
on hand to soak up the moisture during the clean-
ing process. With carpeting, you can step on the pa-
per towels to blot up the last of the moisture and
residue after the cleaning is done.
Stubborn stains may have to be cleaned more than
once in order to eliminate them completely; some
stains will never disappear altogether. A lot depends
upon the fabric and the chemistry of the stain itself.
There are different remedies for different types of
spots and stains. The guide on page 18.2 lists some of
the most common types in alphabetical order. When
the remedy calls for chlorine bleach, don't use it full
strength; dilute it with four parts water to one part
bleach. When peroxide is mentioned, use it in the full
3 percent strength, just as it comes from the bottle.
There are also specialty stain-removal products for-
mulated for particular types of stains. Many are in
small containers convenient to carry in the RV. Look
in the laundry section of grocery or department stores.
■ DRAPES AND BLINDS ■
Periodically vacuum the drapes and blinds, using a
soft-bristled brush attachment. Unless there are stains
on fabric drapes, thorough vacuuming is the best
18.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ A GUIDE TO STAIN REMOVAL ■
Blood Treat the blood stain with cold water. If it is safe for the
fabric in question, follow up with hydrogen peroxide or chlorine
bleach. If not, you may want to try an enzyme presoak product or
unflavored meat tenderizer on the dampened spot. Finish up with
a rinse of cold water, then dry with a clean towel.
Chocolate Several things will work well on chocolate spots: ordi-
nary household detergent, ammonia, an enzyme presoak laundry
product, or peroxide. Remember to test a small, hidden piece of the
material before trying to clean the main spots.
Cigarette Burns in Carpet One solution is to carefully cut away the
scorched fibers from the burned spot. Then locate a segment of the
carpet that is never seen (in the corner of the closet floor, for exam-
ple) and trim out some replacement fibers. Squeeze a little liquid
glue into the area to be repaired, and set the fresh fibers in the glue.
Coffee This is one instance when you want to use hot water to re-
move a spot. Begin by soaking the stain with an enzyme presoak
laundry product or, if the fabric can handle it, a color-safe bleach or
chlorine bleach. Then finish up by washing the stain out with hot
water. Blot up as much of the moisture as possible with paper towels.
Fruit (including catsup) If you can catch it in time (before it
dries), remove the fresh stain with cool water. Once the stain is
dried info the fabric, soak it in a solution of cool water and a house-
hold detergent. Rinse and dry.
Milk, Cream, Ice Cream Soak the spot in a solution of warm
water and an enzyme presoak laundry product. Then rinse and
blot dry.
Mud Allow the mud to dry out first. Then you can brush it to knock
loose as much of the caked-on dirt as possible and vacuum it up.
Any mud that remains can be removed by soaking it in cool water. If
maintenance. If stains occur, the drapes should be
removed and either gently washed or dry cleaned,
according to the instruction tag on the fabric. If there
is no tag containing cleaning instructions, contact
the dealer or manufacturer to learn the recommended
cleaning method.
Gentle care must be taken when working with alu-
minum miniblinds to prevent damage to the frag-
ile blades. By lowering the blinds and then adjusting
all the way in both directions, the broad surfaces of
there is a residual stain, use a household detergent, then rinse and
blot dry.
Mustard One proven remedy for mustard stains is to use ammo-
nia, another is peroxide. But always run a test on the material be-
fore cleaning to see if damage from the cleaning agents will occur.
Oil/Grease If you're dealing with freshly spilled oil or grease, try
to sop up as much of if as possible with paper towels or other ab-
sorbent materials to prevent it from spreading. The next step is to
pick out an inconspicuous little piece of the material on which to test
cleaning agents. You can try using mechanic's hand cleaner on the
greasy spot. Liquid detergent and dry-cleaning solvents also work.
Carburetor cleaner will work very well for all types of oily stains
(this is a highly flammable and high-vapor compound so care must
be exercised when using it). Finish up by washing the area with
cool water and laundry detergent, then rinse and blot dry.
Tar Road tar can make a real mess of things inside a coach. You
can try the remedies suggested for oil and grease, but if they don't
work, try turpentine. Surprisingly, mayonnaise will also cut tar. As
always, make sure you test a hidden piece of the material before
cleaning the main spots.
Urine These wet spots need prompt attention and a good wad of
paper towels. Start by soaking up all the moisture possible until the
paper towels don't show any dampness when you step on them.
Then wash the area with an enzyme presoak laundry product; rinse
and blot dry.
Wine Begin with an enzyme presoak laundry product and hot
water. If it's safe for the material, try an oxygen bleach and hot
water. If the stains remain, and if the material can safely handle it,
you can try a chlorine-bleach solution.
both sides of the slats can be vacuumed. Special
miniblind brushes are available at many department
stores; these make cleaning the blades easier. If spills
or stains occur on the blinds, a soft, damp cloth and
mild detergent can be used. Gently wash the blinds
and then dry thoroughly. Adjust the slats so they are
separate and allow to air dry.
Wood miniblinds are generally cleaned the same
way as aluminum. Instead of washing with a mild
detergent, use a cleaner made for wood floors; this

will prevent the wood from drying out. Furniture
polishes should be used sparingly; some will leave
a residue that builds up or attracts dust.
Day/night blinds should be vacuumed frequently
because the dust acts as an abrasive, causing the
blinds to wear out faster. These shades are difficult
to spot-clean and cannot be dry cleaned. If spot-
cleaning is necessary, use a barely damp cloth and
wipe gently.
■ FLOOR CARE ■
Vinyl Flooring
Today's vinyl floor coverings are exceptionally easy
to care for. All they require is periodic sweeping or
vacuuming and mopping. For stubborn dirt, mop
with a solution of ammonia and warm water or one
of the floor cleaners available in every grocery store.
If serious scrubbing is necessary, use a plastic-bristle
brush to prevent damage to the vinyl surface. Al-
though most of the vinyl-floor coverings used today
have no-wax surfaces, a floor wax can be applied, if
desired, to make future cleanup even easier.
Tile Flooring
Tile flooring is very easy to keep clean. Normal wash-
ing will suffice under most conditions. A glass cleaner
or common household floor cleaner can be used for
spot cleaning. Do not use any form of wax on tile
floors; wax can create a very slippery surface.
■ WALL AND CEILING PANELING ■
Dust, fingerprints, and grease from cooking can coat
the wall paneling and ceiling. Routine cleaning of
these surfaces with a soft cloth and mild detergent
solution will help prevent a heavy buildup of these
elements. Do not scrub or use abrasive cleaners. Wall
covering is generally water resistant, but it is not
waterproof.
Use caution when treating the paneling; many man-
ufacturers use a photosensitive paper that simulates
wood grain. This industrial contact paper allows man-
ufacturers to use a lighter wood and still give the look
CHAPTER 18 Interior Care 18.3
of natural woods, without the additional weight. Pol-
ishes and cleaners designed for real wood should not
be used on photosensitive surfaces. In many cases, the
cabinet doors and drawer fronts are finished in real
wood while the rest is photo paper. Extreme care must
be taken when cleaning photopaper; do not use too
much water. Never attach a stick-on hanger (for ex-
ample, one to hold a towel) to photopaper, because
it will simply peel off the wood backing.
If the ceiling is covered with a carpet-like mate-
rial, use a mild detergent solution or carpet cleaner.
Some of these ceilings will develop yellowish spots
resembling water stains. This is commonly caused
by the glue used to adhere the fabric to the ceiling
bleeding to the surface. In most instances, these stains
will not come out.
■ WOODWORK ■
Some of the most beautiful furnishings in an RV are
made of wood. They will retain their beauty if treated
as fine furniture in the home would be. A high-
quality liquid or spray wood treatment can be used.
Avoid the use of water-based waxes or polishes.
As beautiful as the woodwork is, it is vulnerable
to damaging scratches, chips, and stains. Luckily,
wood's characteristic is to have light and dark por-
tions, a texture, and a personality. Unlike paint, wood
isn't meant to be monotone. When it comes to re-
pairing wood, these characteristics help make the re-
pair work less obvious.
Low-humidity areas will also require that wooden
doors and cabinets be oiled/waxed more often to
prevent the wood from drying out.
Repairing Scratched Woodwork
Many different remedies have been suggested for
making scratches and dings disappear. They don't
mend the scratches, but at least they make them less
visible. Read over this short list, then pick out the
one that suits your needs.
■ One low-tech remedy is to use old motor oil
as a staining medium for furniture. It renders
a rich, dark color and oils the wood at the
same time. A small amount can be rubbed
18.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
into the scratches on wood to make them
blend into the rest of the wood's grain.
■ Instant coffee (one part) and water (two
parts) can be rubbed into the scratches with a
cotton ball. This solution can be used almost
like a furniture polish to remove water spots
and leave a soft sheen.
■ If you catch them while they're still wet, water
marks can also be removed by the solid appli-
cation of elbow grease and a soft cloth. Stub-
born, dried-on marks may need an oil-based
furniture polish to remove them.
■ One fellow we heard of swears by Magic
Markers as a scratch and ding mender. He
just buys the color that most closely matches
the woodwork and inks in the bad spot. Buff-
ing over it with a soft cloth immediately af-
terward helps to "feather in" the edges and
make the repair less visible.
■ Nut meats have been used to repair scratched
woodwork. Just rub the meat over the length
of the scratch, then wipe with a soft cloth.
■ Paste shoe polish can be rubbed into the
scratches to make them vanish. You can buy
polish of different tones to match the wood-
work. This serves not only to color the scratch,
but to wax the surface as well
■ Of course, you can keep on hand a small dis-
penser of stain to match your woodwork. Just
dab it on with a cotton ball, rub it in, wipe
away the excess, and you're done. A little lin-
seed oil mixed with the stain will help pre-
serve the wood as you mend it.
■ Woodworking finishing/repair pencils and
crayon sticks can be found in your local hard-
ware store in almost every color. These make
wood finish repair very simple.
■ KITCHEN AND BATHROOM CARE ■
Cutting Grease
Grease buildup on kitchen appliances or miniblinds
on the kitchen windows may require an application
of a grease cutter before washing. Allow the solution
to stand for a few minutes. Do not use abrasive clean-
ers. Make sure you also clean the exhaust-fan screen.
Stove-top burners may be cleaned quickly by light-
ing the burner and allowing the flame to burn at its
lowest level, without going out. Food and other
residues will cook off completely. Do not have any-
thing on the burner. Allow the stove top to cool be-
fore closing the range cover.
Microwaves will clean with soap and water. If spills
or splatters have dried, spray on a little soap or other
mild cleaning solution and let sit for a few min-
utes. This will soften the food and make it easy to
wipe off. Consider using a splatter shield to cover
foods cooking in the microwave.
Countertops and Sinks
Countertops take a great deal of abuse. Food is
chopped up here, dishes drain here, everything spills
here. It's an area that needs constant attention.
Some of that attention should be paid in advance.
No matter what kind of material your countertop
is made of, it can be damaged. Cutting should be
done only on a cutting board. This will not only save
the countertop, but the knife as well. If spills occur,
they should be wiped up as soon as possible. Never
use harsh abrasives on countertops since the surface
may become damaged or dulled.
Some General Countertop-Cleaning Tips
The following guidelines will help keep countertops
in tip-top shape:
■ Hard water can leave lime deposits on the
counter. One way to remove them without
resorting to abrasive cleansers is to use white
vinegar and a soft cloth. For stubborn
deposits, let the vinegar stand and soak the
area for a few minutes.
■ Toothpaste and a discarded toothbrush come
in handy for cleaning the corners and the
grout between tiles.
■ Rather than spend time and energy scrubbing
off dried-on food, lay a sponge or washcloth,
wet with hot, soapy water, over it for ten
minutes to soak and loosen it up.
■ If scrubbing is necessary, use a plastic scrub
pad or brush to prevent damage to the coun-
tertop surface.

Corian
DuPont Corian is the trade name of one of the most
popular solid surface countertop materials used in
upscale RVs. Among the reasons it is so popular is
that it is not only beautiful, but it is also durable and
easy to clean. Nevertheless, the material does require
some maintenance, and if it is abused, it may even
need an occasional repair. Corian comes in three
surface finishes — matte/satin, semi-gloss, and high-
gloss. Recommended maintenance and repair will
vary according to surface finish.
Maintenance and Repair
Routine cleaning:
■ To remove most dirt and stains from all three
surface finishes, wash with soapy water or ammo-
nia-based cleaner.
■ To remove water marks, wipe with a damp
cloth, then towel dry.
For difficult stains:
■ On matte/satin surface finish, use an abrasive
cleanser and a green Scotch-Brite pad.
■ For semi-gloss surface finish, use Soft Scrub
or diluted bleach and a white Scotch-Brite pad.
■ On a high-gloss surface finish, follow proce-
dure for semi-gloss, but use a sponge instead of a
Scotch-Brite pad, or use white polishing com-
pound.
Disinfecting:
■ Occasionally wipe surface with diluted
household bleach (1 part water / 1 part bleach).
Removal of cuts and scratches:
■ For matte/satin surface finish, sand with 180-
or 220-grit fine sandpaper until cut is gone. Then
restore finish with an abrasive cleanser and a green
Scotch-Brite pad.
CHAPTER 18 Interior Care 18.5
■ For semi-gloss surface finish, sand with 400-
grit sandpaper. Then restore finish with a non-
abrasive cleanser and a white Scotch-Brite pad.
■ For high-gloss surface finish, sand with 400-
grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface and continue
with 600-grit sandpaper. Buff with white polish-
ing compound and a low-speed (1500-2000 rpm)
polisher equipped with a wool pad. Then finish
with a countertop wax.
Maintenance:
■ For routine care of Corian with a matte/satin
finish, rub with Scotch-Brite pad alone.
■ To enhance the shine of a semi-gloss finish,
use a non-abrasive polish such as Hope's Counter-
top Polish.
Stainless-Steel Sinks
Just because it's made of stainless steel doesn't mean
that it can't get stains (one of the mysteries of life).
Keep your stainless-steel sink looking nice and shiny
by using a few of the following techniques:
■ Most of the time, a stainless-steel sink only
needs to be wiped out and dried with a soft
cloth after each use in order to keep it look-
ing spotless. This is especially important if
you are using hard water.
■ Vinegar will remove the buildup of lime
deposits and water spots resulting from
hard water.
■ Rubbing alcohol or baking soda can be used
to remove stubborn stains. Follow up with a
good washing with hot water and detergent.
■ Avoid using abrasive cleansers because they
damage the surface of the stainless steel.
Porcelain Sinks
Durable as porcelain enamel is, it can still be dam-
aged by abrasive cleansers. Use a spray-on foamy
cleanser or one of the abrasive-free powders. Clean-
ing may require a bit of elbow grease, but it will save
the porcelain finish. An alternate cleanser is dishwasher
18.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
detergent. Wear rubber gloves when working with these
cleansers to save the fine finish on your hands.
There are touch-up paints on the market that can
be used to repair a section of the porcelain that's
chipped. These are applied like nail polish and come
in colors to match most porcelain products. Most
hardware stores carry these paints.
Fiberglass Sinks, Tubs, and Showers
Special care must be taken to prevent scratches or
cracks in fiberglass. When they do occur, repair can
be made by following the specific instructions on a
fiberglass-repair kit, available at RV and boating-sup-
ply outlets. Although it is possible to repair a scratch
or crack in the fiberglass, it is difficult to match the
original color. It may be necessary to paint the en-
tire surface.
Everyday care and maintenance of fiberglass is
similar to that of porcelain. Use only nonabrasive
cleansers that state "fiberglass-safe" on the label.
(There are cleansers on the market specifically for
fiberglass. Look for these at RV supply outlets, de-
partment stores, or supermarkets.) Before the initial
use, and again after each thorough cleaning, apply a
coat of a good fiberglass wax or protectant. Not only
will this preventive maintenance limit the buildup
of water deposits, discoloration, and stains, it also
helps close the surface "pores," increasing the life of
the material.
CAUTION: Do not use a protectant or wax on the tub or shower floor;
this will make the surface too slippery and dangerous to walk on.
Vinyl Shower Curtains
After each shower, use the hand-held shower wand
to spray clear water over the surface of the curtain to
remove soap residue. When it comes time to laun-
der the curtain, either hand wash or machine wash
on the gentle cycle, using warm water and a mild
soap. Do not use bleach. Remove the curtain from
the machine before the final spin cycle and allow to
drip dry.
Odor Eaters
Most of us already know about leaving an opened
box of baking soda in the refrigerator, freezer, and
oven to remove unwanted odors. But there are at least
two other methods for removing odors from small
enclosures or the entire coach.
1. A pan of charcoal briquettes left sitting out in
the open air will eliminate bad smells.
2. Cat-box litter is quite effective as an odor
eliminator. Fill a shallow pan and leave it sit-
ting in the RV during storage. It takes care of
the musty smells that can build up when the
vehicle is not used for some time.
■ GENERAL INTERIOR CARE ■
Carpet runners and/or area rugs can be laid in high-
traffic areas to protect the carpet from excessive wear.
A washable rug (bath mats for example) positioned
just inside the entrance helps enormously. There are
service companies that will come to your rig and
steam clean the carpets and upholstery. Check the
phone book or a local RV dealership.
In low-humidity areas, it helps to spray the vac-
uum-cleaner head or areas to be vacuumed with an
antistatic spray. Otherwise dirt (especially pet hair)
clings to the surface being cleaned.
Consider putting a blanket, sheet, or other cover
over the sofa and chairs. Doing this will help protect
against sun fading, accidental spills, and general wear.
This is really helpful if there are pets in the rig. Wash-
ing a cover is easier than shampooing the upholstery.
 ■ CHAPTER 19 ■
ACCESSORIES
nstalling accessories on the exterior of an RV not
I only adds character but also makes traveling and
camping more comfortable and convenient. Each ac-
cessory offers its own bundle of benefits, but each
also calls for periodic maintenance. A prime exam-
ple is the awning. In the heat of the day, the shade
of an awning is an inviting place to spend a little time
enjoying the scenery offered by the campsite. If an
awning is properly maintained, it is less likely to give
the owner fits when operating the mechanism. The
same can be said of automatic levelers and tongue
jacks, which take much of the work out of leveling
and hitching up an RV—they certainly beat using
stacks of boards and piles of rocks! But automatic
levelers are complex pieces of equipment and require
periodic service to assure operational efficiency. These
days, many RVs are designed with extension rooms
that slide out on mechanisms that require care and
maintenance. Television antennas are as common as
kitchen sinks and are obviously necessary if the RV
is equipped with a television. Simple care of the
mechanism is all that is needed.
■ AWNINGS ■
Awnings are the RV counterparts to patio covers, but
they are more complex because they have moving
parts and are retractable. Awning systems are sized
to fit all types of RVs, ranging from the largest mo-
torhomes to the smallest tent trailers. In addition to
the main awning that covers the entire side of an RV,
smaller awnings are available for use on individual
windows and to cover the slide-out area. There's even
an awning for the rear of pick-up campers.
The typical RV awning system consists of an
awning rail attached to the upper edge of the RV side
wall, adjustable rafters and lower support arms to
stiffen the awning when extended, brackets for at-
taching the rafters and support arms to the side of
the RV, a roller tube onto which the awning fabric is
furled, and a locking mechanism to prevent the
awning from unrolling while traveling.
Awning manufacturers have designed their prod-
ucts to operate slightly differently from one another.
One of the keys to successful use of an awning sys-
tem is to study the owner's manual and learn the
proper steps to setting up and taking down the awning
so there will be no confusion at the campsite.
Awning Maintenance
Fabric Awnings
Some awnings are made of fabrics that are resistant
to rot and mildew, while others need special care to
prevent this type of damage. Rot and mildew result
from moisture being trapped in the fabric. Although
instructions published by manufacturers of rot and
mildew resistant awning fabrics claim that their
awnings can be rolled up wet if necessary, even these
awnings should be unfurled and allowed to dry thor-
oughly as soon as possible. If the fabric is not rot and
mildew resistant, even greater care must be taken to
dry the material at the earliest opportunity.
It is important to keep the awning material as
clean and dry as possible. Even on mildew-resistant
fabric, pollen or dust can support mildew growth,
which results in stains. In regions of the country
prone to salt spray or road salt, the awning fabric and
hardware should be washed frequently to prevent
19.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
deterioration. Air pollution has been found to dam-
age the fabric, and it is recommended that during
prolonged exposure to air pollution the awning
should be washed a minimum of twice a month.
Cleaning Fabric Awnings To clean the fabric, carefully
follow the manufacturer's recommendations. The
following are typical recommendations, although
the procedures may be different for some brands:
1. Periodically (as the need demands) loosen
hardened dirt with a dry, soft brush.
2. Hose off dirt, both top and bottom.
3. Using a mixture of 1/4 cup of dish soap and
1/4 cup of bleach in 5 gallons of warm water,
wash both the top and bottom sides of
the fabric.
CAUTION The bleach must be diluted or it will damage
the awning fabric.
4. Roll up the awning for anywhere between
five minutes to two hours (depending upon
the stubbornness of the dirt) to allow the
cleaning solution time to work on both sides
of the fabric.
5. Unroll the awning and rinse thoroughly.
6. Allow the fabric to air-dry completely before
rolling it back up.
CAUTION: Never use a strong detergent or stain remover
on the awning because it will destroy the fabric's water repel-
lency. Avoid the use of hard-bristle brushes, petroleum-based
chemicals, and abrasive or caustic household cleaners on the
awning fabric.
7. To remove stubborn mildew, wipe the af-
fected areas with white vinegar, which will
kill the mildew. Rinse the fabric with clear
water. The fabric may require a second wash-
ing and rinsing after this cleaning procedure.
Checking for Leaks in Fabric Awnings Leaks in the fabric
may be the result of several causes:
■ If the leaking occurs after washing, the cause
may be insufficient rinsing. Rinse more thor-
oughly and allow the fabric to dry, then check
for water repellency.
■ If water drips through the needle holes in the
stitching, use a commercial seam sealer
(available at canvas and RV supply stores) or
apply a layer of paraffin wax to the top of
the seams.
■ A pinhole leak can develop if a spot of water-
repellent material on the top of the fabric has
flaked off. To fix the hole, apply a small dab of
VLP (vinyl liquid patch) with the end of a cot-
ton swab. By gently rolling the VLP around the
hole, the paint will melt and fill in the pinhole
with a perfect color match. Be sure to allow the
VLP to dry before rolling up the awning.
■ If a leak develops through the fabric where a
pool of water has collected, lower one of the
support arms to encourage drainage.
Awning-Hardware Maintenance
As with the fabric, different manufacturers recom-
mend various procedures for maintenance of the
awning hardware. Carefully read the owner's man-
ual before proceeding. Following are typical rec-
ommendations for some awnings:
■ Clean all the hardware with a solution of
warm, soapy water.
* Rinse and allow to dry.
■ Using silicone spray, lubricate the rafter arms
and support arms.
■ Using silicone spray, lubricate the threaded
portion of the adjustment knobs.
■ A stubborn pushbutton or lift-handle can be
lubricated with silicone spray.
■ Lubricate the bottom-bracket release tab for
easier disengagement.
■ A light oil may be used on the latch section
of the base brackets, the threaded portion of
the security knobs, and the spring-loaded ad-
justment knob in the lift-handle. After lubri-
cating, wipe excess oil from all parts.
■ Periodically extend all telescoping arms as far
as possible and wipe away accumulated dirt.
NOTE: Do not over lubricate or use WD-40 on any of these
parts. This just attracts dust and dirt and will result in more fre-
quent cleaning and wear on the parts. Always use silicone spray.
■ Before each travel season, check all fasteners
for tightness. Replace any missing parts with
factory-authorized replacement parts. If
streaks appear or water is seeping behind the
awning rail, check for loose screws or
damaged sealant at the rail.

Carefree One-Touch Awning
One-Touch is Carefree's electrically operated awning
that is actuated by a key-operated control module
that features a rocker switch to extend or retract the
awning. To prevent damage to the motor and cir-
cuitry, the power control module monitors the cur-
rent drawn by the motor. If preset factory levels are
exceeded, the module shuts off power to the unit.
This will happen if the switch continues to be oper-
ated after the awning is fully retracted or extended.
Normally, the awning is extended or retracted by
operating the power module, but there may be oc-
casions when it is necessary to override the system
and operate the awning manually. This would be the
case when the 12-volt battery is too low for success-
ful operation, or in the event of a mechanical failure
with the drive system.
Emergency Retraction
If 12-volt DC power (Figure 19.1) from the RV be-
comes unavailable for any reason, it is possible to
operate the awning by using an alternative 12-volt
power source.
Figure 19.1 Carefree One-Touch wiring
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.3
■ Disconnect the power plug from the motor.
■ Attach one cable from a set of jumper cables
to one of the terminals on the bottom of the mo-
tor housing.
■ Touch the opposite jumper lead to the other
terminal.
■ If the awning does not retract, reverse the
leads.
■ It is necessary to maintain contact with the
jumper cables throughout the entire process of re-
tracting the awning.
CAUTION: Be careful when refracting the awning in this manner.
The awning may move abruptly.
If there is no alternative 12-volt DC power source
available, it is possible to manually operate the
awning.
■ Disconnect the power plug from the motor.
■ Use a reversible electric drill, fitted with the
straight 9/64-inch hex key provided to turn the
motor.
■ The portion of the motor that can be turned
is accessible through an opening at the base of the
motor housing.
CAUTION: Operate the drill in reverse at a low speed to retract the
awning. It is necessary to turn the motor with the drill throughout the
entire retraction process.
19.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Maintenance ■ Use a soft brush for cleaning or scrubbing.

■ Periodically clean fabric using mild laundry de-
tergent or an approved aftermarket awning or vinyl
cleaner.
■ When using cleaners, be sure to follow manu-
facturer's instructions carefully.
■ Clean both sides of fabric and rinse thor-
oughly.
■ Allow fabric to dry completely before retract-
ing.
CAUTION: Do not use oil-based cleaners or any caustic, granu-
lated, or abrasive type cleaners.

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
C A R E F R E E O N E - T O U C H A W N I N G

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Rafter Arm will not extend to its
complete extended position.
One side lifts higher or sooner
than the other.
Awning does not extend.
Upper carriage is improperly adjusted, Push Extend button on switch panel
causing gas shock to engage prematurely. and completely extend awning. Loosen
9/64-inch hex head screws on lower car-
riage. Move carriage down 8 to 10 inches
and snug screws so carriage won't fall
down into the arm. Push Retract button
on power switch and retract awning one
revolution. Move lower carriage up until it
touches the bottom of the top carriage.
Retighten clamping screws with 9/64-inch
wrench.
Awning is out of time Re-time awning according to instructions
in owner's manual.
Re-time awning according to instructions
Awning is out of time in owner's manual.
Strap or straps are loose when awning is in When awning is retracted, check nylon
retracted position. strap inside arm channel to see if it is
loose. If loose, extend awning one revolu-
tion. Remove end cap screws and slide
drive wheel of arm assembly out of roller
tube. Rotate drive wheel 1/3-turn until the
strap is tight. Repeat on opposite end.
Key is in "off" position Turn key to "on"
Low battery Charge battery
Blown fuse between power control module Replace fuse
and power supply
Battery-disconnect circuits open Close battery-disconnect circuits
Incorrect wire connection, bad connections Check all wiring connections and grounds.
or bad grounds. Repair as necessary.
No power to motor Check for 12-volt DC power at motor cover
terminals when switch is on. If no power,
check all wiring connections and grounds.
Faulty component in awning Disconnect power plug at RV wall. Using
jumper cables, connect a 12-volt DC source
directly to motor terminals. If this fails to
operate awning, there is a faulty compo-
nent. Contact Carefree.

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
C A R E F R E E
Problem
Roller assembly spins but will not extend
away from RV.
Awning does not retract, or retracts slowly
(greater than 30 seconds).
Rafter arms rest on side of RV or backside of
awning arm during retraction or extension.
Fabric will not tension.
O N E - T O U C H A W N I N G ,
Possible Cause
RV is not level
Center of roller assembly is not at same
height as center of awning rail.
Roller is higher on one side than on
the other side.
If an Alumaguard Awning, the traction
masters may not be installed or are not
installed correctly.
Motor under-powered
Poor connections or broken wires
Inadequate wire gauge
Roller assembly is not centered to the
awning rail.
Top bracket is misaligned.
Upper carriage is not properly adjusted
to allow gas shock to set the rafter.
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.5
c o n t i n u e d
Correction
Level the RV
Move the adjustable leg at the base of the
arm assembly so center of roller assembly
is closer to the same height as center of
the rail.
Measure bot arm assemblies and adjust
stop bolts accordingly until roller assembly
is centers on the awning rail on both ends.
Install or adjust traction master.
Check battery voltage. If low voltage,
charge battery.
Clean and reinstall connections.
Inspect wire for cuts, etc. and replace if
necessary.
Minimize wire length and/or maximize
wire gauge. Minimum of 14-gauge wire
should be used. Use larger gauge if run-
ning wire a long span. A 10- or 12-gauge
wire is preferred for the primary 12-volt
DC power wire.
Center roller assembly properly to awning
rail.
Reposition top bracket
Push Extend button on switch panel and
completely extend awning. Loosen 9/64-
inch hex head screws on lower carriage.
Move carriage down 8 to 10 inches and
snug screws so carriage won't fall down
into the arm. Push Retract button on
power switch and retract awning one revo-
lution. Move lower carriage up until it
touches the bottom of the top carriage.
Retighten clamping screws with 9/64-inch
wrench.
19.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ LEVELERS ■
Hydraulic levelers are used on motorhomes to pro-
vide a firm, level foundation when parked in a camp-
site. When traveling, the levelers ride in the "up"
position beneath the chassis. Depending on the type
of leveler, when activated, the units either telescope
downward or pivot to a vertical position before the
hydraulic/electric rams extend downward until they
contact the ground. With a leveler located at each
comer of the coach (or with one centered in the front
and one at each corner of the rear), the chassis can
be raised a different amount fore and aft and side to
side, until the coach is level.
Some models are automatic, employing a com-
puter-controlled sensing device that operates the sys-
tem and automatically brings the coach to level. Other
systems are manual, requiring that the driver control
the leveler for each corner individually.
In this section, we will cover the care and mainte-
nance of both manual and automatic systems. Because
of the complexity of installation, we recommend that
these systems be installed by experienced personnel.
HWH Leveler Maintenance
Check the following items on the IIWII leveler: (See
"Troubleshooting the HWH Leveler," pages 19.7 -
19.11)
■ Inspect the assemblies of each leveler to be
sure they are free of road hazards and dirt
buildup prior to every trip.
■ Make sure the routing of electrical wires and
hydraulic lines avoids sharp edges of under-
carriage components and heat-producing
portions of the coach or AC generator-
exhaust system.
■ Keep the battery system fully charged. If it is
necessary to start the engine prior to operat-
ing the levelers, it could indicate a low-
battery-charge condition caused by an
electrical drain or insufficient charging of
the battery.
NOTE: When inspecting each unit, check if any wires have
been pulled loose during the previous trip.
HWH Leveler Lubrication
Periodic lubrication of the various pins and links is
important for the proper operation of the HWH lev-
eling jack (Figures 19.2 and 19.3). Begin by cleaning
the jack assembly, washing it with a high-pressure hose
if possible. Lubricate all moving parts with a light pen-
etrating oil such as WD-40, followed by lubricating
these same points with a heavier oil such as 10- to 30-
weight engine oil. The grease fitting on the rear of each
jack should receive two to three pumps of grease.
If the main cylinder of the jack is slow to retract,
extend the jack, spray the polished rod with WD-40,
and manually rotate the foot of the jack as it retracts.
Make sure the lower roller is free to roll on the pol-
ished rod as it extends.
HWH Leveler Adjustment
Inspect the pin through the lower roller and the two
hook bolts; make sure they are not bent. Replace if
necessary. The hook bolts regulate the fore and aft
position of the jack when it is in the vertical posi-
tion. It is important that both hook bolts are adjusted
to the same length. Make sure the horizontal pin
rides equally on the edge of the notched flat bars on
each side of the jack when it's vertical.
The stop on the side of the pivot bracket regulates
the position of the jack in the stored position. If you
want to prevent the jack from swinging all the way
up into the stored position, the stop should be moved
to a higher hole in the pivot bracket. The stop should
be adjusted so the jack can extend in the horizontal
position without making contact with any obstruc-
tions behind the jack.

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
Problem
Part 1:
Touch panel lights are on
when ignition is off.
Part 2:
a. With the ignition switch on:
Neither the "travel" nor the "jacks down"
warning light is on.
b. The "jacks down" warning light is on
even though the jacks are in the
stored position.
c.. The touch panel has lights on other than
the "travel indicator."
Part 3:
After pushing the "1" button one time:
a. The red indicator light above the "\"
fails to come on.
b. More than two yellow lights are lit, or
the opposite yellow lights are lit.
c. The "not in park/brake" light is on.
d. The pump comes on at this time.
THE HWH L E V E L E R
Possible Cause
Power to control box
With the ignition switch on,
the brown or yellow wire
in the 3-pin connector
should have power.
Bad warning switch or
short problem
Control box, touch panel,
or modular cable
Voltage on the brown
or yellow wire should
be 12.5 volts or more.
Control box, sensing unit,
wiring
Transmission, park brake,
wiring, control box
Control box, relay B
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.7
Correction
Trace the brown or yellow wire in the 3-pin connector to its
source. The wire should be connected to accessory or ignition
power. Accessory is preferred. Do not use unswitched power
for the control box.
Trace the wire to its source. Check in-line fuses. Make sure the
white wire is properly grounded. If everything is okay, the
problem is the control box, the touch panel, or the modular
cable.
Unplug the warning switch. If the light goes out, replace the
warning switch. If not, unplug the 9-wire connector for the
warning switches at the control box. If the red warning light
goes out, the wire to the jack warning switch is shorted. If the
warning light stays on, replace the control box.
Turn the ignition switch off, then back on. If the lights do not
go out, the problem is probably the control box, but it could
be the touch panel or the modular cable.
Check voltage on brown or yellow wire. Check white wire for
proper ground. If good voltage is present, replace the control
box, the touch panel, or the ribbon cable. Check that the cable
between the touch panel and the control box is properly
connected.
Unplug the sensing unit's connector from the control box. If
lights do not go out, replace the control box. If the lights go
out, connect a test light to ground. There are 5 pins on the
sensing unit— 1 pin for ground and 1 pin for each yellow
level-indicator light. Touch each of the 4 pins for the
indicator lights. Only one light per pin should come on. If this
is so, replace the sensing unit. If not, replace the control box.
Check that the transmission is in the "park" position and the
park brake is set. Trace the blue wire in the connector to its
source. Check for proper position of the diode arrangement.
Check the brake switch for proper function. Most coaches
complete ground through the brake switch, but some have a
12-volt signal. Make sure the proper box is being used. Use a
jumper wire to apply the proper signal to the blue wire. If the
light still doesn't go out, replace the control box.
Release the park brake. If the pump continues to run, replace
relay B. Otherwise, check terminal 5 with a 12-volt test light
connected to ground. If 12-volts are present, the problem is
with the control box. If no power is present, replace relay B.
19.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
THE HWH L E V E L E R ,
Problem
e. All the indicator lights on the touch
panel come on.
Pari 4:
After pushing the "1" button a
second time:
a. The red light above the "1"
button does not flash.
b. The low battery indicator comes on, but
the pump runs and the jacks go vertical.
c. The pump does not come on.
d. Pump runs under no load and
nothing happens.
c o n t i n u e d
Possible Cause Correction
Control box If all the lights come on and stay on, replace the control box.
NOTE: All lights will flash momentarily when turning the
system on.
Control box Push the "off" button, then the "1" button twice. If the light
does not flash, replace the control box.
Low voltage The low-battery light will come on if voltage at the control box
is below 8.5 to 9.0 volts. The system will continue to function,
but the batteries and all connections should be checked.
Continuously running the system under low voltage can
damage electrical components.
Many possible problems. If the low-volts light comes on, push the "off" button, then the
See solutions. "1" button once. Check terminals 1,2, and 3 of relay A. They
should have 12 volts. If terminal does not have 12 volts, the
control box is bad. If terminal 2 has no voltage, check the
cable, cable ends, and the battery. If terminal 3 has no voltage,
connect a test light to terminal 2 and check terminal 8.
Terminal 8 supplies the ground for relay A. If the test light
comes on, replace relay A. If the test light does not come on,
check that all wires are properly connected to ground. The
white wire on terminal 8 could be bad. Check the fuse in the
in-line fuse holder on the #10 wire connected to terminal 3.
The following test must be performed while the red light is
flashing above the "1" button. Push the "1" button a second
time. With a test light hooked to ground, check terminals 5
and 6 while the light is flashing. If terminal 5 has no voltage,
check the pump fuse at the control box. If the fuse is good,
replace the control box. If the fuse is blown, the gray wire may
be shorted or relay B may be bad. If terminal 5 has voltage
but not terminal 6, check terminal 7 with a test light hooked to
terminal 2 of relay A. Terminal 7 supplies the ground for
relay B. If the test light comes on, replace relay B. If the test
light fails to come on, check connections at the grounding stud.
The white wire may be bad. If terminals 5 and 6 have voltage,
check the connection at terminal 9. Check that the connection
at terminal 10 is tight. Check that the pump ground cable is
properly attached to the grounding stud.
NOTE: Some pumps will not have terminal 10 or a ground
strap. Check that the pump has a good, solid frame mount. If
all connections and mountings are okay, replace the pump.
Pump, shuttle valve Disconnect the pressure tube between the manifold and the
shuttle valve. Check pressure at the manifold. Turn the pump
on for five to ten seconds. Pressure should be approximately
3,500 psi. If pressure is low, change the power unit. If pressure
is okay, change the shuttle valve.

■ T R O U B L E S H O O T I NG ■
T H E HWH L E V E L E R S , c o n t i n u e d
Problem
e. A jack is vertical and extended,
but the red warning light is not lit.
f. A jack is not vertical, and its red warning
light is not on. The jack has not extended
in the horizontal position.
g. A jack has extended in the
horizontal position.
h. After going vertical, a jack returns to
horizontal after the pump shuts off.
Part 5:
When manually operating the jacks:
a. A jack extends but will not lift the coach.
Possible Cause
Warning switch, control box
Air in the lines, solenoid
valve, actuator, control box
Roller bearing, actuator
cable, actuator
Control box, solenoid valve,
actuator
Actuator, shuttle valve
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.9
Correction
Return the jacks to horizontal. With panel "on," pull each jack
vertical by hand while someone watches the panel. Make sure
the light for each jack comes on. Unplug jack warning switch
for light not working. Use a jumper wire between the 22 pins
of the harness connector. If the light comes on, replace the
warning switch. If the light does not come on, unplug the
orange connector for the warning switches at the control box.
Use a test light connected to the ground pin for the warning-
switch inputs. Touch each pin in the control box. If the warning
lights work properly, the wire from the jack is bad. If the red
light fails to come on, replace the control box.
CAUTION: A jack will abruptly swing to the horizontal
position when released.
On a new installation or after a repair, there could be air
in the lines. Turn the system on and off and retry several times.
Check that the roller bearing or actuator cable is okay. Check
that jack stops are okay. Check that actuator rod moves freely.
If there is no change, the problem is either a bad solenoid
valve, actuator, or control box. Check the fuse for the malfunc-
tioning jack. If the problem is a front jack, interchange the
wires for the front solenoids. If the problem is a rear jack,
interchange the wires for the rear solenoids. Retract and try
the vertical mode again. If the problem stays with the jack,
change the solenoid valve. If the problem follows the change
of wires, replace the control box.
Check that the roller bearing or actuator cable is okay.
Check that the stop is okay. If these check out, replace
the actuator.
Push the "off" button. Push the “\" button twice. As the
problem jack goes vertical and its red light comes on, push the
"off" button. If the jack stays vertical, the control box is the
problem. If the jack retracts, the problem is the solenoid valve
or the actuator. Check that the emergency-release valve on the
solenoid valve is closed tightly. Push the "1" button twice. Push
the rails manual button that will operate that jack. Hold the
button until the jack kicks vertical and extends and lifts the
coach. Release the button. If the jack retracts, replace the
solenoid valve. If it does not retract, the problem is probably
the actuator on that jack.
If one or more other jacks will extend and lift the coach, and if
the jack in question swings to the vertical position okay, the
actuator should be replaced. If none of the jacks will lift the
coach, disconnect the tube between the shuttle valve and the
manifold. Check pressure at the manifold. Pressure should be
approximately 3,500 psi. If pump pressure is okay, replace the
shuttle valve.
1 9 .1 0 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TRO U BLESH O O TIN G ■

T H E H W H L E V E L E R , c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

b. A jack fails to retract.
Jack, actuator, solenoid Bleed pressure off between the jack and actuator. If the jack
valve will not retract, replace the jack. If the jack starts to retract,
bleed pressure off between the actuator and the hydraulic
supply line. If the jack fails to retract, replace the actuator.
If the jack starts to retrait the problem is the solenoid valve.

Part 6:
Level indicator does not work properly. Level sensing unit The level-sensing unit is a disk normally mounted under
the center of the coach, although sometimes it is installed
inside the coach. Check that the unit is not mounted, or the
wires are not routed near a heat source. Check that the unit is
mounted correctly. The unit is adjusted by drawing up or
loosening the corresponding screws until the level-indicator
lights go out. Using a test light connected to ground, check
each pin in the control box for the sensing unit. Check that the
proper light on the touch panel comes on when its pin is
touched. If there is a malfunction here, replace the control
box. If the control box is okay, replace the sensing unit.

Part 7:
One or more jacks are not One or more jacks do not
stabilizing the coach. reach the ground. Or, one
or more jacks lift the coach
too much.
If the jack does not attempt to move to stabilize the coach,
unplug the jack-pressure switch and retry. If the jack now
extends and lifts the coach, replace the pressure switch.
If a jack extends but fails to reach the ground, adjust the
pressure switch. Unplug the wire, loosen the locknut, turn the
pressure-adjust body If turn clockwise. Reassemble and retry.
If adjusting the switch doesn't help, replace the switch. If the
jack lifts the coach too much, unplug the wire, loosen the lock-
nut, turn the pressure-adjust body A turn counterclockwise.
Reassemble and retry. If adjusting the switch doesn't help,
replace the switch.

Part 8:
After pushing the "I" button once and
pushing the "store" button:
a. The pump comes on. Solenoid B The pump solenoid is probably stuck. The system cannot
retract if the pump is running.

b. A jack will not refract to the Solenoid valve Unplug the left front and the left rear solenoid valves. Put the
horizontal position. system in the "store" mode. If the right-side jacks retract,
replace the left rear solenoid valve. Repeat the procedure for
the right side.

c. Red warning lights on the touch panel W arning switch, wiring, Unplug the warning-switch wire. If the light goes out,
out, but the jacks have retracted. control box replace the warning switch. If the light does not go out,
check the wire for a short to ground. If the wire is okay, replace
the control box.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.11

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
THE HWH L E V E L E R, c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

d. The master "jacks down" warning
light will not go out.
e. The green travel light will not come on.
Part 9:
Jacks fail to retract using the T-handle
release on the solenoid valves.
Wiring, control box Unplug the 6-pin connector and check the ground wire to the
master warning light. If it is not shorted to ground, replace
the control box. This light should be on whenever a warning
light on the touch panel is on.
Control box The green travel light will not come on if any red warning
lights are on. If no red warning lights are on, replace the
control box.
Shuttle valve, solenoid If none of the jacks will retract using the T-handles, the
valve, actuator, jack shuttle valve is bad. If only one jack will not retract using
the T-handles, loosen the hydraulic line for that jack. If the
jack retracts, replace the solenoid valve. If the jack does not
retract, the hose could be kinked or the actuator or jack is bad.

Figure 19.2 HWH kick-down jack for 100, 110, 200, and 310 series leveling systems
19.12 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 19.3 HWH straight acting jack, 7-degree pivot, s/s springs
HWH 610 Series Leveler Repair
Reduced Lifting Capacity
If the jack extends to the ground but will not lift
the coach, two possible problems exist. Follow this
procedure to determine the cause of the problem:
1. Disconnect the tube between the shuttle
valve and the manifold.
2. Connect a pressure gauge to the fitting in the
manifold.
3. Check the pump pressure. It should be ap-
proximately 3,500 psi.
4. If the pump pressure is okay, replace the
shuttle valve.
Jack Refuses to Retract
If the leveler refuses to retract, follow this procedure:
1. For a 9,000-pound unit, bleed pressure
between the jack and the actuator.
2. If the jack still will not retract, replace the jack.
3. If the jack starts to retract, tighten the actua-
tor tube and bleed pressure off between the
actuator and the hydraulic-supply line.
4. If the jack fails to retract, replace the actuator.
5. If the jack starts to retract, the problem is prob-
ably the outer check valve in the manifold.
6. For 6,000- or 16,000-pound units, bleed
pressure between the actuator and the hy-
draulic-supply line.
7. If the jack fails to retract, replace the jack.
8. If the jack retracts, the problem is probably
the outer check valve in the manifold.
9. A stuck shuttle valve could prevent the system
from retracting, but if that were the case,
none of the jacks would retract.
HWH 510 Series Leveler Repair
Emergency Jack Retraction
Some systems are equipped with drain valves that
can be used for emergency retraction of the jacks.
1. On systems with the 3-port drain valve, place
a container under the drain valve.
2. Slowly open the drain valve by turning each

T-handle counterclockwise 3 turns.
3. Drive the coach forward off the jacks.
A second method of emergency retraction will
work if the jacks refuse to retract when the pump
comes on after the master solenoid is activated.
1. Disable the pump by disconnecting the cable
from terminal number 6 on solenoid B. This
will disconnect all power to the pump motor.
2. Run the system through the normal retract
procedure.
Jack Fails to Hold Pressure
If a jack retracts slowly after the coach is level and
stabilized, the solenoid valve for that jack is leak-
ing and should be replaced.
If one of the jacks drops slightly during the lev-
eling process and then continues, the inner check
valve for that jack should be replaced. This problem
may also be caused by a sticky shuttle valve.
HWH 610 Series Leveler
Straight-Acting Jack Repair
Emergency Retraction
Each solenoid valve is equipped with a T-handle
release valve.
1. Turn the handle counterclockwise 3 turns or
until the jack begins to retract.
2. The oil will return to the reservoir and the
jack should retract.
3. After all the jacks are fully retracted, turn the
T-handle clockwise until snug.
Jacks Fail to Lift and Stabilize the Vehicle
If the jack fails to move to stabilize the vehicle:
1. Unplug the pressure switch and try again.
2. If the jack now extends and lifts the vehicle,
replace the pressure switch.
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.13
Jacks Fail to Reach the Ground
The jacks should lift the vehicle at least 1/2 inch dur-
ing stabilizing. If a jack extends but fails to reach the
ground or lift the vehicle sufficiently, first adjust the
pressure switch. To make this adjustment, follow this
procedure:
1. Remove rubber boot from the switch body.
2. Unplug the wire so it can rotate freely.
3. Loosen the locking nut.
4. Turn the pressure adjust body 1/2 turn clockwise.
5. Try again to stabilize the vehicle.
6. Repeat the adjustment procedure until the
jacks are operating properly.
7. If adjusting the pressure switch fails to help,
replace the switch.
Jacks Lift Too Much
If one or more of the jacks lifts the vehicle too much,
adjustment or replacement of a pressure switch is
necessary. If one front jack-pressure switch needs ad-
justment or is defective, both jacks will lift too much.
To adjust the pressure switch and decrease the amount
of lift during stabilizing, do the following:
1. Remove the rubber boot from the switch
body.
2. Unplug the wire so it can rotate freely.
3. Loosen the locking nut.
4. Turn the pressure-adjust body 1/2 turn
counterclockwise.
5. Try the system again, and repeat the proce-
dure if necessary.
6. If adjusting one front switch doesn't help, try
adjusting the switch on the other front jack.
The rear jacks operate independently of one an-
other. If adjusting the switch fails to help, replace the
switch. To determine which front switch is mal-
functioning:
1. Disconnect either switch.
2. Use a jumper wire to ground the harness pin
for that switch.
3. If the jacks continue to lift too much, the
switch that remains plugged in is the bad one
19.14 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
and should be replaced.
4. If the front jacks now stabilize properly,
replace the switch that is unplugged.
HWH 310 Series Kick-Down Jacks
The Jack Fails to Return to Horizontal
If the foot of the jack retracts, but the jack itself fails
to return to the horizontal position:
1. Make sure the actuator cables or rollers are okay.
2. If the cables and rollers are okay, replace the
actuator.
If all the jacks fail to retract:
1. Check for 12-volt DC power at the solenoid
valves.
2. If power is not present, replace the touch
panel.
3. If power is present at the solenoid valve
plugs, replace the shuttle valve.
The Jack Fails to Retract Using the T-Handle
If none of the jacks will retract when using the T-han-
dles, the shuttle valve is bad. If only one jack fails to
retract when using the T-handle, loosen the hydraulic
supply line to that jack. If the jack retracts, replace the
solenoid valve. If the jack fails to retract, the hose could
be kinked or the actuator or jack is bad.
HWH 600 Series 4-Point Air-Leveling System
Air Bags Fail to Inflate
If the air bags fail to inflate, check the following:
1. Check the appropriate fuse for the solenoid
in question.
2. If the fuse is blown, the valve or the power
wire to the valve may have shorted.
3. If the fuse is not blown, check for power on
the corresponding pin in the control box.
4. If power is not present, replace control box.
5. If power is present, there's a problem with
the wire to the valve, the ground for the
valve, or the valve itself.
6. Replace the valve if power is present and the
ground is good.
7. If power is not present, a wire or connection
is bad.
8. If a 2-wire plug is used, the white wire is
ground. Check for power at the colored wire
and make sure there's a good ground.
9. If power is present, check and repair the
ground wire (as necessary).
10. If no power is present, check and repair the
colored wire (as necessary).
A Front Bag Fails to Deflate
When a front bag fails to deflate, check the follow-
ing items:
1. Make sure the exhaust ports of the air mani-
fold are not plugged.
2. Check fuse for bag that fails to exhaust air.
3. If the fuse is blown, the valve or the wire to
the valve is shorted.
4. If the fuse is not blown, check the pin in the
box for the valve.
If power is not present:
1. Unplug the opposite front-pressure switch
and retry.
2. If no power is present, replace the control box.
If power is present:
1. The pressure switch that is unplugged is
closed.
2. If there is more than 10 psi in the air bag, the
pressure switch should be replaced.
3. If power is present, the problem is the wire to
the valve, the ground for the valve, or the
valve itself.
4. Replace the valve if power is present and the
ground is good.
5. If power is not present, a wire or connection
is bad.
6. If a 2-wire plug is used, the white wire is

ground. Check for power at the colored wire
and make sure there's a good ground.
7. If power is present, check and repair the
ground wire (as necessary).
8. If no power is present, check and repair (the
colored wire (as necessary).
A Rear Bag Fails to Deflate
The pressure switch will not interfere when deflat-
ing the rear air bags. Check the following:
1. Check the fuse for the bag that fails to
exhaust air.
2. If the fuse is blown, the valve or the wire to
the valve is shorted.
3. If the fuse is not blown, check the pin in the
box for the valve.
4. If power is not present, replace the control box.
If power is present:
1. Check the wire to the valve, the ground for
the valve, or the valve itself.
2. Replace the valve if power is present and the
ground is good.
3. If power is not present, a wire or connection
is bad.
4. If a 2-wire plug is used, the white wire is
ground. Check for power at the colored wire
and make sure there's a good ground.
5. If power is present, check and repair the
ground wire (as necessary).
6. If no power is present, check and repair the
colored wire (as necessary).
Level-Sensing Unit Adjustment
To adjust the level-sensing unit:
1. First, level the coach and verify that it is
level by placing a 24-inch level in the center
of the coach floor.
2. Adjust the sensing unit until all yellow
lights are out.
3. This is done by adjusting the sensing-unit
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.15
screws, turning them either clockwise or
counterclockwise as the situation demands.
4. If a front light is on, adjust the front screw.
5. If a side light is on, adjust the side screw.
6. If a rear light is on, adjust the rear screw.
7. One or more screws may need to be adjusted
in order to turn out all the yellow lights.
8. After adjustment has been made, pull down
the sensing unit to make sure the unit is
bottomed out on the screw heads.
9. Rock the coach and recheck for yellow lights.
10. Readjust if necessary.
Power Gear Hydraulic Levelers
Power Gear hydraulic levelers (Figure 19.4) are pow-
ered from a central 12-volt DC motor/pump assembly
that also incorporates a hydraulic fluid reservoir, con-
trol valve manifold, and solenoid valves. The system
is controlled via a solid-state touch pad.
Maintenance
The recommended hydraulic fluid for use in the sys-
tem is Type-A automatic transmission fluid. In cold-
weather applications, where temperatures are expected
to be below minus 10 degrees F., the jacks may ex-
tend and retract slowly. For those conditions, fluid
specially formulated for low temperatures may be
substituted. Mobile DTE 11M, Texaco Rando HDZ-
15HVI, Kendall Hayden Glacial Blu, or any Mil. Spec.
H5606 hydraulic fluids are recommended for cold
weather operation.
■ Fluid should be changed every 36 months.
■ With the jacks fully retracted, check fluid
level every month. On 1998 and later models, the
fluid should be within 1/4-inch of the fill port lip.
On pre-1998 models, the level should measure
1/8-inch on the dipstick.
■ Inspect and clean hydraulic pump electrical
connections every 12 months.
■ Remove dirt and debris from jacks as needed.
■ If jacks are to be left extended for long peri-
ods of time, it is recommended to spray exposed
chrome rods with a silicone lubricant every seven
days for protection.
19.16 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 19.4 Power Gear Hydraulic Leveler
System will not turn on.
Indicator Light does not light.
■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
POWER GEAR HYDRAULIC LEVELERS
Coach ignition not in run position
Transmission not in Park or Neutral
Parking brake not set
Control has been left on more than
4 minutes, auto shut off
Power wire disconnected or shorted
Ground wire disconnected or shorted
Transmission wires shorted
Turn ignition to run position
Place transmission in Park or Neutral
Set parking brake
Push on/off button twice
Check Pin # 5 of the 6-pin connector. It must
have 12-volt DC power with ignition in run
position.
Check coach fuse or breaker
Check Pin # 1 of the 8-pin connector. This is
the main ground.
Disconnect pins No. 2 and N. 6 of the 6-pin con-
nector. If jacks operate, replace wires or neutral
safety switch.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.17

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
P O W E R G E A R H Y D R A U L I C L E V E L E R S , c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Parking brake wire shorted Check pin # 1 of the 6-pin connector to

the positive side of the parking brake
switch. This goes to ground with the park-
ing brake switch set.
Faulty control If all previous actions do not apply, replace
control.
Jacks will not extend, pump is not running Control panel fuse blown Replace fuse
Motor solenoid wire shorted Check for 12-volt DC power at small termi-
nal of motor solenoid. If no voltage with
button pushed, replace wire.
Power from battery to pump shorted Check for 12-volt DC power at large
or insufficient terminal of solenoid.
Clean terminals or replace wire
Recharge battery
Bad ground to pump motor Add new ground cable from pump motor
to chassis battery
Faulty motor solenoid, clicking sound Replace solenoid
Faulty pump motor Connect 12-volt DC power to motor side
terminal of solenoid. If motor fails to run,
replace pump.
Faulty control If all previous actions fail, replace control.
Jacks will not extend, pump is running Fluid level low Check fluid level
Pump harness fuse blown Replace fuse
Dump valve solenoid faulty Replace dump valve solenoid
Valve solenoids miswired Check wiring for proper routing
Faulty control If all previous actions fail, replace control.
Only front jacks will not not extend Control panel fuse blown Replace fuse
pump is running
Front jack coil wire shorted Pin # 7 of 8-pin connector completes
circuit. Check continuity. If none, replace
wire.
Front jack coil positive 12-volt wire shorted Check for 12-volt DC power at the coil ter-
minal. Check for coil continuity. If none,
replace solenoid.
Faulty front jack valve Spring-loaded inner shaft of valve should
move. If no movement, replace solenoid.
Faulty control If all previous actions fail, replace control.
Any of rear jacks will not extend, Control panel fuse blown Replace fuse
pump is running
 19.18 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
P O W E R
Problem
All jacks will not retrace
Any one or two jacks will not retract
Any jack retracts with no power, with
possible popping sound
■T R O U B L E S H O O T I
G E A R H Y D R A U L I C L E V E L E R S
Possible Cause
Jack coil ground wire shorted
Jack coil positive 12-volt wire shorted
Faulty jack valve
Faulty control
Control panel fuse blown
Pump harness fuse blown
Dump solenoid coil ground wire shorted,
switches to ground with button pushed
Dump solenoid coil 12-volt DC wire shorted
Faulty dump solenoid valve
Faulty control
Broken spring(s)
Control panel fuse blown
Jack coil ground wire shorted
Jack coil 12-volt DC wire shorted
Faulty jack valve
Faulty control
Air in system
Oil, dirty fluid
Leg solenoid valves dirty
Leg solenoid valves stuck open
Dump solenoid valve dirty
N G ■
- C o n t i n u e d
Correction
Pin # 5 of the 8-pin connector for road-side
jack.
Pin # 6 of the 8-pin connector for curb-side
jack.
Check continuity. If none, replace wire.
Check for 12-volt DC power at the coil terminal.
Check coil for continuity. If none, replace sole-
noid.
Spring-loaded inner shaft of valve should move.
If no movement, replace solenoid.
If all previous actions fail, replace control.
Replace fuse
Replace fuse
Pin # 4 of the 8-pin connector completes
circuit. Check for continuity. If none, replace wire
Check for 12-volt DC power at coil terminal.
Check coil for continuity. If none, replace sole-
noid.
Spring-loaded inner shaft of valve should move.
If no movement, replace solenoid.
If all previous actions fail, replace control.
Replace spring(s)
Replace fuse
Pin # 5 of the 8-pin connector for road-side
jack.
Pin # 6 of the 8-pin connector for curb-side
jack.
Pin # 7 of the 8-pin connector for front jack(s)
Check continuity. If none, replace wire
Check for 12-volt DC power at coil terminal.
Check coil for continuity. If none, replace sole-
noid.
Spring-loaded inner shaft of valve should move.
If no movement, replace solenoid.
If all previous actions fail, replace control.
Fully extend all jacks, then retract fully. Repeat
four cycles. Check fluid level.
Replace fluid
Remove solenoid valves and clean. Then repeat
first two steps.
Replace solenoid valve. Then repeat first two
steps.
Remove solenoid valves and clean. Then repeat
first two steps.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.19

■ TROUBLESHOOTING■
P O W E R G E A R H Y D R A U L I C L E V E L E R S , c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Panel jacks down light will not go on
with jacks extended
Panel jacks down light will not go off
with jacks retracted
Panel jacks down light and alarm will go
on while drive, jacks retracted
Dump solenoid valve stuck open Replace solenoid valve. Then repeat first two
steps.
All solenoid valves stuck open Replace complete valve block assembly. The
repeat first two steps.
Jack legs create popping sound Extend legs, clean rod, lubricate with silicone
spray.
Float switch shorted Check for 12-volt DC power at float switch.
Replace 10-amp fuse on pump harness.
Faulty float switch Check float switch for continuity with jacks
extended. If no continuity, replace switch.
Faulty control If all previous actions fail, replace control.
Low fluid level Fill fluid reservoir
Faulty float switch Check float switch for continuity with jacks
extended. If no continuity, replace switch.
Faulty control If all previous actions fail, replace control.
Low fluid level Fill fluid reservoir
Faulty float switch Check float switch for continuity with jacks
extended. If no continuity, replace switch.
Faulty control If all previous actions fail, replace control.

Big Foot Hydraulic Levelers
The Big Foot Hydraulic Levelers by Quadra Manu-
facturing Inc. use high-pressure hydraulic pumps on
each lift-jack cylinder to operate the levelers. These
levelers can be used with both normal spring-type
suspensions and with air-bag or direct-air suspen-
sions. They can be fitted to Class A and C mo-
torhomes, fifth-wheel trailers, and bus conversions
in either a 3- or 4-point configuration. Operation of
the system is via a central control panel.
The system has no springs, hinges, or kick-down
applications. It is strictly a straight-acting, completely
hydraulic system, for both extension and retraction.
According to the manufacturer, the straight-acting
jacks have a total stroke of 15 inches and should
be installed on the RV frame so there is ground clear-
ance of 8 to 10 inches when the jacks are completely
retracted. The control panel includes individual Ex-
tend/Retract switches for each jack, an All Ex-
tend/Retract switch and an Emergency Retract switch.
The Big Foot system is designed to be almost main-
tenance free. The user should be aware that there's a
100-amp circuit breaker located near the battery (if in-
stalled properly) and a 7.5-amp fuse on the back of
the control panel. The rest of the electrical system is
straightforward, using a point-to-point wiring harness
and a simple connector block behind the control panel.
Each jack is a self-contained system (Figure 19.5)
with its own pump, pressure regulator, oil tank and
limit control; there are no hydraulic hoses or remote
connections. The jacks are designed to be repaired
or replaced as a unit, requiring very little labor time.
The hydraulic-fluid supply tanks bolt directly to the
hydraulic cylinders and are filled with 48 ounces
of ether DEXRON I or II automatic-transmission
fluid.
Coaches with air suspension need to dump their
air before beginning the leveler-operation procedure.
NOTE: Big Foot jocks do not have a "drive-off" safety feature. Make
sure you do a visual inspection of the actual position of the jacks before
driving the motorhome from its campsite.
19.20 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Big Foot Troubleshooting Tips
If you attempt to use the levelers and all you
hear is a clicking noise, reset the 120-amp cir-
cuit breaker located near the batteries.
If no lights come on when the control panel
is activated, inspect and replace, if necessary,
the fuse in the back of the control panel.
Make sure the wiring is positioned correctly.
If the red light stays lit on the control panel,
check the limit pins at the foot assembly;
make sure they move freely up and down.
Also check the spade connections at the limit
switches and the switch itself.
If one or more cylinders will not retract and the
green light stays lit on the control panel, check
the limit pin(s) on the affected leveler to verify
that it moves freely. Also check the tank sole-
noid by jumping a hot wire across the connec-
tions to retract the unit. Check the hydraulic-
fluid level in the tank; it should be full. Check
for broken hydraulic lines on the jack. Make
Figure 19.5 Each Big Foot Hydraulic Leveler jack is a self-contained system.
sure there is no power interruption in the
16-gauge control wire from the main wiring
harness. Check the 4-gauge battery cable for
proper connections.
■ If a cylinder is noisy or drops (collapses) just
enough to set off the safety alarm, there may
be air in the hydraulic system. Purge the air
out of the system by extending the levelers in
pairs to their full length. Let the system stand
for ten minutes; the air will self-purge
through the vent caps. After the ten-minute
period, momentarily bump the All Retract
button and then hold the Retract Levelers
button until the jacks are fully retracted.
■ If a cylinder appears to be leaking, extend the
leg fully for ten minutes and then retract it
halfway for five minutes. Repeat this cycle
two more times. Now extend the jack for an-
other ten minutes and retract it fully. Make
sure you bump the All Retract switch before
fully retracting the jack. If the cylinder still
seems to be leaking, it needs to be replaced.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.21

Figure 19.6 Equalizer Systems Hydraulic levelers

19.22 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

a T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
E Q U A L I Z E R S Y S T E M S H Y D R A U L I C L E V E L E R S

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Legs are jerky when raising
Legs will not retract from fully
extended position
Two legs will not go in opposite
direction at the same time
Legs chatter and ratchet when retracting
Legs are stowed but indicator light
is still on
System will not operate, or legs will
stop running
Air in the system
Fluid level too low
Pump not designed to operated
in opposite direction at same time
Hoses installed incorrectly
Magnetic switch not functioning
Low battery or bad power connection
Check fluid level, add if necessary to
3/4-full. Cycle system by fully extending
and retracting the legs two to three
times. Check fluid level again.
Check fluid level, add if necessary
to 3/4-full. Cycle system by fully extend-
ing and retracting the legs two to three
times. Check fluid level again.
Extend or retract multiple legs
in one direction only
Check hose installation and fluid level
Make sure no debris is keeping
magnets from making contact.
Check ground and connection at the
pump
Check green LED on pump. If it is
off, or goes off during operation, the
unit is not getting enough voltage.
Charge battery.

■ If a jack seems unable to lift the RV, check the
needle valve in the pump assembly or replace
the cylinder, as necessary.
Equalizer Systems Hydraulic Leveling
The Equalizer Systems hydraulic levelers (Figure 19.6)
are available in several styles: SL (Straight Leg) Series
for Class C and Class A motorhomes; Cam leg Series
for Class A motorhomes where a flip-up leg is desired;
and Diesel Pusher units when a longer leg stroke is
needed. All units are designed to be operated from
an electronic control panel in the vehicle cockpit.
null. Manually level the coach by using the push but-
tons or toggles on the left of the control panel. Once
the coach is level, turn off the power on the control
panel. Now set the null. While pushing in and hold-
ing the Auto-Level button or holding the Auto-Level
toggle switch (depending upon model) in the down
position, turn power on to the control panel. Con-
tinue pushing the Auto-Level down as the control
panel is beeping. After the control panel has beeped
six to seven times, release the Auto-Level button or
toggle. Null has now been set.
Now the Auto-Level system will operate by sim-
ply pushing the button or toggle and releasing. The
coach will automatically come to level.

Initialization
Maintenance
Before the system is ready for operation (after initial
installation, after any period of storage, or after a ■ Periodically check fluid level.
power failure on the coach) it is necessary to tell the ■ Maintain all under-coach hardware in a clean
sensor where "level" is. This is known as setting the and debris-free condition.

RVA Leveling Jacks
RVA J-ll Leveling System
RVA makes a three-point leveling system with five
models, ranging in capacity from 16,000 to 45,000
pounds (Figures 19.7 and 19.8). The systems come
as either a manual or an auto-level model.
RVA Maintenance
The system is equipped with a warning device to in-
dicate the position of the jacks and also to indicate
low fluid levels. To fill the jacks with oil, you must
extend the jack 6 inches from the fully retracted po-
sition. The other two jacks should be retracted fully.
Unscrew the reservoir cap from the top of the pump.
Fill with fluid until the red light and sound signal
turn off. Stop filling and replace the cap.
A majority of the fittings in the hydraulic system
are pipe threads. The factory covers all male pipe
threads with at least three wraps of Teflon tape, except
for the first thread of the fitting, to prevent any tape
from breaking off and becoming lodged in the valves.
A small amount of grease is applied to the tip of the
Figure 19.7 RVA front jack installation
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.23
fitting (without the Teflon) and also to the mating
female thread. This procedure insures proper sealing
without fear of leaks. Make sure that you use the pre-
ceding procedure when disconnecting or connecting
any of the fittings.
If a component of the hydraulic system such as a
jack ram has been removed and replaced, air will
probably have been introduced into the hydraulic
system. The unit has a self-bleeding system to as-
sist in removing this air. Extend and retract each
jack fully at least twice to remove the air. Some
additional air can also be trapped in the manual
retract valves. To remove this air, you must fully ex-
tend the jacks and open the manual retract valves
to bleed out the trapped air. This operation will re-
tract all the jacks at the same time. Close the valve
handles and check the liquid level in the hydraulic
system.
RVA Lubrication
The only lubrication needed on the outside of the
jacks is to lightly apply a lightweight oil such as WD-
40. Some oil found on the extended jack ram is nor-
mal and aids lubrication of the ram.
19.24 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 19.8 RVA rear jack installation

Figure 19.9 Atwood Power A-Frame Jack

 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.25

■ ATWOOD POWER A-FRAME JACK ■
Maintenance
■ Prior to each use, inspect jack tubes (Figure
19.9). Replace, if bent or damaged.
■ Inspect electrical connections for integrity
and corrosion. Clean terminals with a solution of
baking soda and water, then apply a thin coating
of grease.
■ Annually, extend jacks as far as possible and
clean inner ram tube. Then spray on a light coating
of silicone lubricant.
■ Remove top cover by loosening four screws.
■ Remove screws holding motor to mounting
plate.
■ Lift motor off jack.
■ Turn hex drive nut with a wrench or optional
manual drive handle.
■ To reinstall electric motor, rotate hex drive
nut until the pin in the hex drive nut aligns with
the slot in the motor drive shaft.
■ Tighten hex nut to 25 in.-lbs. of torque.
■ Reinstall motor and fasten with screws.
■ Reinstall top cover and fasten with screws.

Manual Override Atwood Tubular Swivel Jack

■ In the event of electrical failure, you may Swivel jacks are often used on lightweight trailers
raise or lower the jacks manually. such as folding camping (tent) trailers. When needed

■ T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
A T W O O D P O W E R A - F R A M E J A C K

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Motor will not operate No or low voltage Check battery and electrical connections.
Must have minimum of 10 volts DC.
Jack flange not making good contract to Clean paint or dirt from coupler frame
provide ground with coupler surface
Blown fuse Replace with 30-amp AWG fuse
Loose wires on the on/off switch Secure wire connections
Faulty on/off switch Replace switch
Faulty motor Replace motor
Motor clutch engages Normal if jack leg is at fully-retracted position None. Let go of switch when you hear the
clutch
Worn worm gear Replace jack ram
Dirty inner ram tube Clean ram tube and apply light coat of sil-
icon spray
Bent inner ram tube Replace inner ram tube
Faulty clutch Replace motor
Jack at an angle Secure mounting bolts and ensure a sup-
port plate is being used
Excessive tongue weights Determine hitch weight and shift weight
toward the rear of the trailer
Utility light does not work Loose wires on the on/off switch Secure wire connection
Bad light bulb Replace bulb
19.26 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
A T W O O D M A N U A L A - F R A M E J A C K

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Difficult to crank Too much tongue weight Verify weight and determine if adequate
rated jack has been used

Jack mounted at angle Reinstall jack perfectly vertical

Dry gears Grease gears

Dirt in gears Clean and grease gears

W orn ball socket Replace coupler

Broken teeth on bevel gears Replace gears

Binding thrust bearing Replace bearing

Stripped acme nut Replace jack

W orn worm gear Replace jack

Bent inner ram Replace jack

Jack leg seized Stripped acme nut Replace jack

Stripped worm gear Replace jack

Obstruction in gears Clean and grease gears

Bent inner ram Replace jack

to support the A-frame, the unit is swiveled down

and locked in place, then the handle rotated to lower
the jack tube. For travel, they are unlocked and
swiveled up, where the mechanism again snaps into
a locking mode to hold the jack horizontal against
the A-frame.
Maintenance is simple. At least every six months,
clean and lubricate as follows:
■ Extend jack fully
■ Clean dirt and debris from jack
■ Lubricate entire length of outside inner ram
with SAE 30 oil
■ Squirt oil in oil hole at top of outer ram

NOTE: For side-wind jacks, do all of the above and then remove
the cap and lubricate gears with wheel bearing grease.

If the jack becomes difficult to operate, follow all

of the cleaning and lubricating procedures, and in-
spect for bent or worn components. Replace all bent
or damaged parts. If it is impossible to restore nor-
mal operation, the jack must be replaced. Figure 19.10 H&H Hi-Torque Acme Power Jack
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.27

Figure 19.11 H&H Hi-Torque Acme Power Jack (exploded view)

19.28 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

H&H A-Frame Jack

Maintenance ■ Extend landing legs as far as possible. Clean

drop tube and inner ram tube. Coat exposed sur-
On H&H A-frame jacks (Figure 19.10), once a year, face of tubes with silicone spray lubricant.
the power head should be removed by taking out the ■ Spray silicone lubricant inside of handle
Allen head set screw (Figures 19.11) and applying a alignment tube.
liberal amount of grease directly to the coupling ■ Grease gears in gear box and at top of each
on which the drive pin rests. leg with extreme pressure grease
The housing cover should also be removed once ■ Oil shaft bushings in gear box and leg gear
a year to inspect the gears for wear and proper lu- heads with S.A.E. 30 oil.
brication. To remove the cover, take out the four
screws and tap around the edges of the housing to
free the cover.
NOTE: Do not use a screwdriver blade to pry off the cover, ft will
damage the mating surfaces.
Use only high-meltlng-point lithium-based grease
on the jack. Do not pour oil into the top of the jack
post.

H&H Outrigger Jacks

The H&H electric outrigger jacks (Figure 19.12) can

be used on light travel trailers, fifth-wheels, and Class
C motorhomes. Sizes range from 16 to 23 inches
of extension with a lifting capability of 1,500 pounds
per jack.

Maintenance

The inner tube of the jack assembly (Figure 19.13)

must be greased annually with Mobil-Lift SHC-460
grease or equivalent. Check and lubricate with a
small amount of WD-40 all points of moving con-
tact. No routine lubrication is needed for the gear-
box.

■ ATWOOD FIFTH WHEEL LANDING GEAR ■

Maintenance
(Figures 19.14 and 19.15)

Prior to each use:

■ Inspect drop tube and inner ram tube. Re-

place if bent or damaged. Figure 19.12 H&H electric outrigger jacks
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.29

Figure 19.13 H&H electric outrigger jacks (exploded view)

19.30 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 19.14 Atwood fifth wheel landing gear

Every Six Months: 30-amp fuse. Replace only with a Buss Type AGC-30 fuse or equivalent.

■ Check the electrical connections at battery

terminals and clean with baking soda and water, Gear Box Replacement
then cover with a thin coat of grease.
NOTE: The electric drive motor landing leg system is protected by a To replace the original metal gear box with a new

composite gear box, follow these removal and in-
stallation procedures.
Removal
■ Fully retract the landing leg.
■ Remove the motor (if there is one).
■ Remove the old gear box from the driveshaft.
■ Remove the cap from the top of the leg.
■ Locate the vertical and horizontal bevel gears
at the top of the leg.
■ Using a hammer and punch, drive out the
pin under the vertical bevel gear that holds it to
the drive shaft.
■ Pull out the old drive shaft.
■ Cut or grind the mounting lug off the driver
leg, then grind the remaining weld flat, and paint
the bare metal.
Installation
■ Install the new D-drive shaft through the
hole on the top tab face of the leg housing. Slide
the D-shaft through the vertical bevel gear and
through the second hole in the leg housing.
■ Drive the new pin back under the vertical
Figure 19.15 Atwood fifth wheel landing gear
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.31
bevel gear, attaching it to the drive shaft.
■ Reinstall cap at top of leg.
■ Place new composite gear box over the D-
shaft.
■ Place the collar over the D-shaft and fasten it
with screw. The extruded part of the collar goes
into the cross shaft, if there is one.
■ Assemble the cross shaft (if used) by placing
undrilled end of 3/4-inch square tube into open
end of 1-inch square tube.
■ Install landing leg to frame. Fully retract be-
fore attaching cross shaft. Fasten drilled end of
3/4-inch square tube to end of shaft through gear
box with 1/4 x 1-1/8-inch long screw and lock nut.
Bolt end of 1-inch square tube to shaft of driven
leg with 1/4 x 1-1/8-inch long screw and lock nut.
To prevent rattle between tubes, tack weld the two
tubes to each other.
■ ATWOOD STABILIZER JACK ■
Maintenance
(Figure 19.16)
Clean and lubricate jack at least every six months, as
follows:
19.32 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G
A T W O O D F I F T H W H E E L
Problem Possible Cause
Difficult to crank Dry bevel gears
Dirt in gears
Broken teeth on bevels
Too much hitch weight
Jack leg seized or not working properly Seized or stripped nut
Stripped or worn worm gear
Obstruction in bevel gears
Dirty inner ram tube
Bent inner ram tube
Vertical gear box
Too much hitch weight
Motor will not operate No or low voltage
Blown fuse
Loose or disconnected wires at on/off switch
Faulty on/off switch
Faulty motor
No or poor ground
Motor clutch engages Normal if leg is at fully extended or
retracted position.
Faulty clutch
■ Extend jack as far as possible.
■ Remove dirt and debris from jack.
■ Oil pivot holes and rivet or release lever.
If the jack becomes difficult to operate, clean and
lubricate, then check for damage. If components are
worn or bent, replace the jack.
■ ATWOOD CAMPER JACKS ■
Camper jacks are designed to be attached to the cor-
ners of a truck camper, where they provide support
for the camper when it is removed from the truck.
These jacks come in both manual and electric ver-
sions. Some are permanently installed in a vertical
position, while others employ a swivel bracket. It is
■
L A N D I N G G E A R
Correction
Grease gears
Clean and grease gears
Replace gears
Verify weight and determine if adequate
rated leg is installed
Replace leg
Replace leg
Remove obstruction and grease gears
Clean ram tube and coat with a light coat of
silicon spray
Replace leg and ensure vertical position
Replace gear box
Verify weight and determine if adequate
rated leg is installed
Check battery and electrical connection.
Must have minimum of 10 volts DC.
Replace with 10-amp AWG fuse
Secure wire connection
Replace switch
Replace motor
Re-establish good ground
None. Let go of switch when you hear the
clutch.
Replace motor
critical to ensure that the mounting points on the
camper are strong enough for installation and op-
eration of the jacks.
Standard Swivel Camper Jack
This unit utilizes mounting brackets beneath each
corner of the camper, and the legs swing up and out
of the way for travel. The process for unloading a
camper is as follows:
■ Select level, hard ground that will support the
weight of the camper.
■ Disconnect electrical connections between the
camper and truck.
■ Swing the jacks to a vertical position.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.33

Figure 19.16 Atwood stabilizer jack

19.34 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ Insert and tighten mounting bolts into mount-
ing brackets.
■ Position tripods under jacks.
■ Lower jacks until each inner ram settles into the
bottom of the tripod sleeve.
■ Rotate the crank to lift the camper free of the
truck bed. This is done by elevating the front jacks
a maximum of 4 inches. Then elevate the rear jacks
until the camper is level (a maximum of 4 inches).
Repeat process until sufficient clearance is gained
to allow the truck to drive out from under the
camper.
■ Lower the camper to its lowest possible posi-
tion without any part of the camper touching the
ground.
To load the camper back on the truck, reverse the
process.
■ After the camper is once again resting on the
truck bed, retract all the jacks.
■ Crank the jack out until the inner ram extends
through and at least 1 inch beyond the carrier brack-
ets.
■ Pivot the jacks to their horizontal position and
secure in place.
■ Store the tripods and handles.
Maintenance
At least every six months, clean and lubricate as fol-
lows:
■ Extend jack fully.
■ Clean dirt and debris from jack.
■ Lubricate entire length of outside inner ram
with SAE 30 oil.
■ Squirt oil in oil hole at top of outer ram.
■ Remove the spring clip and top gear cover, and
lubricate gears with wheel bearing grease.
If the jack becomes difficult to operate, follow all
of the cleaning and lubricating procedures, and in-
spect for bent or worn components. Replace all bent
or damaged parts. If it is impossible to restore nor-
mal operation, the jack must be replaced,
Ball Screw Camper Jack
Ball screw jacks are available in both manual and
electric models. Basic operation for loading and un-
loading the camper is the same as for the Standard
Swivel camper jacks (see page 19.32), except that
with these jacks there is no need to swing the legs up
or down for storage or for operation. They are per-
manently installed in a vertical position.
Maintenance is the same as already mentioned.
Remote Control
The one great difference is that the electric jacks can
be operated by either wireless or wired remote con-
trol. The wired remote allows the operator to raise
or lower the camper jacks from a handheld control
box that is tied to the camper via a phone cable
hookup. The wireless system allows the same level
of control, but without the cable connection.
Maintenance of the remote control units is as
follows:
To clean the remote:
■ Wipe with a soft, damp cloth.
■ Do not use cleaners or solvents on the remote.
■ Battery contacts may be wiped with a dry, lint-
free cloth.
If the remote gets wet:
■ Remove batteries immediately.
■ Dry the battery compartment with a soft cloth.
■ Leave cover off battery compartment until com-
pletely dry.
■ Do not use remote until completely dry.
If power relay module gets wet:
■ Turn off circuit breaker to the unit.
■ Allow unit to fully dry before further use.
Manual Override
To manually extend or retract an electric jack with
no remote:
• Place the manual override handle in the align-
ment tube and engage the drive pin.
• Rotate handle counter-clockwise to raise or clock-
wise to lower the camper.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.35

To manually extend or retract a remote control elec-
tric jack:
■ Unplug the jack from the camper to disable the
jack motor's dynamic brake. No damage will be done
if the jack is not unplugged, but it will be more dif-
ficult to crank manually because of the brake.
■ Place the manual override handle in the align-
ment tube and engage the drive pin.
■ Rotate handle counter-clockwise to raise or
clockwise to lower the camper.
■ Plug the jack back into the camper to activate
the motor's dynamic brake.
■ WINEGARD TELEVISION ANTENNAS AND
SATELLITE DISHES ■
In this section, we'll examine the Winegard Televi-
sion Systems antenna that is widely used on both
motorhomes and travel trailers. This antenna is con-
trolled from inside the RV by use of a manual crank
that both elevates and rotates the antenna for opti-
mum reception.
Antenna Maintenance
Periodic lubrication of the elevating-gear assembly
is the only routine maintenance procedure. To lu-
bricate the elevating gear, apply a liberal amount of
silicone-spray lubricant to the elevating gear with the
lift in the down position. Then run the lift up and
down a few times to distribute lubricant over the
gears (Figure 19.17).
If rotating the antenna becomes difficult, normal
operation can be restored by lubricating the bearing
surface between the rotating gear housing and the
baseplate (Figure 19.18). Use silicone-spray lubri-
cant for this purpose.
1. Raise the antenna.

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
ATW OOD CAM PER JACKS

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Jack fails to operate/ Low 12-volt DC battery power Check to see that the 12-volt DC battery is
Wired or Wireless Remote fully charged

Faulty electrical connections M ake sure the jack power cords are se-
curely plugged into the exterior sockets.
You m ay need to pull out a plug and re-
plug it.
Jack fails to operate/W ireless Switch off Turn switch on. The LED should be lit.
Rem ote Poor signal Hold rem ote vertically with keypad facing
you, and have rem ote between you and
the cam per.
M ove to within 20 feet of the cam per.
Rem ote battery failure Clean battery term inals.
Replace the 9-volt battery.
Code m atch Set the dip switch code for the rem ote and
the power relay m odule to the sam e code.
Radio frequency interference Other radio frequency devices such as a cell
phone, TV rem ote, or vehicle key fob oper-
ating within range of your rem ote will
cause the jacks to pause. Lift your finger
from rem ote button, then press the button
again.
19.36 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
2. Remove the set screw from the rotating gear
housing.
3. Spray lubricant into the hole and around the
edges of the gear housing.
4. Rotate the gear housing until the lubricant
coats the bearing surfaces and the antenna
rotates freely.
Figure 19.17 Silicone is used to lubricate the
elevating gear in the Winegard television antenna.
Figure 19.18 If rotating the antenna becomes
difficult, the bearing surface must be lubricated
with silicone.
Replacement of
Antenna Components
In the event that the elevating shaft and worm gear
assembly become worn or broken and require re-
placement, follow this procedure (Figure 19.19):
1. Loosen the set screw to release the elevating
crank, the spring, and the directional handle.
2. Remove the RGH-2 plug from the top of the
gear housing. This will expose the top of the
worm-gear assembly
3. To remove the worm-gear assembly, remove
the top pin.
4. Disengage the elevating gear from the
worm gear.
5. Remove the elevating shaft and the worm-
gear assembly.
6. Cut the replacement elevating shaft to match
the length of the original.
7. Install the new assembly by reversing the
procedure. The two gears will automatically
realign themselves by turning the elevating
crank half a turn after all items have been put
back together.
To remove the lift assembly from the vehicle
without breaking the seal between the baseplate
and roof, the rotating-gear housing and base plate
must be separated.
1. Loosen the Allen set screw in the elevating
crank.
2. Remove the crank directional handle and
spring.
3. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver with
a blade the same width as the keyway in the
rotating gear housing, bend the crimped area
of GHN-1 nut out of the keyway.
4. Using a 5/32-inch drill, clean the threaded por-
tion of the GHN-1 nut out of the keyway.
5. Insert Winegard's Tenna-Tool (Figure 19.20)
or use a spanner wrench over the shaft
(depending on mechanism) and rotate until
the pins engage the holes in the nut.
NOTE: A spanner wrench may be constructed from a
7/8 inch- deep socket or 1 inch EMT conduit. Grind the face of the
socket down about 1/8 inch, leaving pins to engage the GHN-1
nut (Figure 19.21).
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.37

Figure 19.19 Winegard television antenna (exploded view)

19.38 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 19.20 The Winegard Tenna-Tool
6. Unscrew the nut counterclockwise.
7. The rotating gear housing and all parts con-
nected to it may now be lifted from the base
plate on the roof.
8. To reassemble, reverse the procedure. Use a
new GHN-1 nut and tighten only enough to
remove side play in the lift. Make certain the
lift rotates freely. Bend the edges of the
GHN-1 nut down into the keyway with a
punch when properly adjusted.
NOTE: The Allen set screw that secures the elevating-crank
handle inside the RV is prone to loosening. When this happens,
the crank handle can be ejected from the shaft due to the spring
that keeps it under tension. Reinstall this set screw using a
good-quality thread-lock sealant. Do not use a permanent-
type sealant.
Manual Satellite-Antenna Maintenance
There are no user-serviceable parts in the electronics
portions of the satellite antenna (Figure 19.22). The
mechanical parts are serviced almost exactly like the
normal RV television antenna previously described.
Periodic lubrication of the elevating-gear assem-
bly is the only routine maintenance procedure. To
lubricate the elevating gear, apply a liberal amount
of silicone-spray lubricant to the elevating gear with
the lift in the down position. Then run the lift up
and down a few times to distribute lubricant over
the gears (Figure 19.23).
If rotating the antenna becomes difficult, normal
operation can be restored by lubricating the bearing
surface between the rotating-gear housing and the base
Figure 19.21 A spanner wrench may be construct-
ed from a 7/8 inch deep socket or a 1-inch EMT con-
duit. Grind the face down about 1/8 inch, leaving the
pins to engage the GHN-1 nut. Remove the elevat-
ing shaft if necessary.
Replacement of Manual Satellite-Antenna Components
In the event that the elevating shaft and worm-gear
assembly become worn or broken and require re-
placement, follow this procedure (Figure 19.24):
1. Lower the antenna to the travel position.
2. Loosen the screw on the elevating crank,
remove the crank, the spring, and the direc-
tional handle.
3. Remove the hex nuts, cable clip, and washer
from the bolt holding the elevating tube in
the rotating-gear housing and remove bolt.
4. Remove the plastic plug from the top of the ro-
tating-gear housing, disengage the elevating
gear, and remove the elevating-shaft assembly.
5. Lubricate the worm-gear assembly on the
new elevating-shaft assembly with silicone-
spray lubricant. Make sure the wave washer,
the flat washer, and the quad ring are on the

Figure 19.22 Winegard inside controls tor manual elevating satellite-dish system
lower bearing (Figure 19.25), and then insert
the assembly into the housing.
6. Reinstall the bolt, the hex nuts, the cable clip,
and the washers that hold the elevating tube
in the rotating-gear housing.
7. Replace the directional handle, the spring,
and the elevating crank. Make sure the set
screw contacts the flat surface on the shaft
before tightening.
To remove the lift assembly from the vehicle with-
out breaking the seal between the base plate and the
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.39
roof, the rotating-gear housing and base plate must
be separated. Use the instructions previously de-
scribed for this procedure on the television antenna
mechanism.
Adjusting the
RV Antenna/Dish Mount
When installed properly, the base plate is attached
to the roof. The gear housing sits on top of the base
plate, and a threaded shaft extends through the roof
19.40 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 19.23 Lift mechanism for the Winegard
manual satellite system
To adjust a Sensar-type antenna:
Figure 19.24 Winegard manual-control satellite-antenna system (exploded view)
of the RV into the interior. A gear-housing nut is fac-
tory installed on this shaft and holds the gear hous-
ing onto the base plate from the bottom. If this nut
becomes too loose, the dish or antenna could wob-
ble on the top of the RV. This can damage the gear
housing causing the TV or satellite picture to weaken
or flash on and off.
The tightness of this nut determines how hard
or easy the antenna or dish will turn from the inside.
In many cases, users of the satellite-dish mechanism
have experienced difficulty locking onto the satellite
because the gear housing has become damaged. The
gear housing nut can be tightened with Winegard's
TT-1000 Tenna-Tool (Figure 19.26). If this tool is not
used, the adjustment requires removing the base-
plate from the roof, which could break the weather
seal and increase the chances of a roof leak.
Adjusting the Sensar-type TV Antenna

Figure 19.25 Winegard satellite antenna system elevating shaft and worm-gear assembly
Figure 19.26 Gear-housing nut is adjusted with Tenna-Tool, 15/16inch deep socket, or a homemade tool.
1. Loosen the Allen set screw (tool supplied)
and remove the elevation crank from its
shaft.
2. This allows the crank, the handle spring, the
nylon bearing, and the directional handle to
be removed.
3. Slide the Tenna-Tool over the elevation shaft,
through the ceiling plate and roof, and attach
to the gear housing nut.
4. Turn tool to the desired tightness.
5. Remove tool; reinstall parts in reverse order.
Adjusting the Satellite-Antenna System
To adjust the satellite-antenna system:
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.41
1. Loosen the Allen set screw (tool supplied)
and remove the elevation crank from its shaft.
2. This allows the crank, the handle spring, and
the nylon bearing to be removed.
3. Unscrew the clamp-down knob and remove
it and the rotate clamp.
4. Remove the directional handle and the rotate
plate by gently pulling downward on the
mechanism.
5. Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws holding
the ceiling-plate group. Keep the plates to-
gether as an assembly and set them aside.
These pieces must be put back exactly the
way they were removed.
6. Slide the Tenna-Tool over the elevation shaft,
through the RV ceiling and roof, and connect
to the gear-housing nut.
19.42 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Figure 19.27 Winegard electronic self-seeking satellite-antenna system designed for RVs
7. Turn tool to desired tightness.
8. Remove tool and reinstall parts in reverse
of above.
Adjusting Satellite-Antenna Systems
Built after June 1996
To adjust these systems:
1. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the
elevation crank, the nylon washer, and
the spring.
2. Pull down on the directional handle. It and
the extension shaft, if used, should come off
the elevation shaft.
3. Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws in the
one-piece ceiling-plate assembly and place
assembly aside.
4. Proceed with the adjustment procedure for
the other satellite-antenna systems previously
described.
Winegard Electronic Self-Seeking
Satellite-Antenna System
Self-seeking satellite-antenna systems (Figure 19.27)
relieve the user of having to locate and focus on the
broadcast satellite. There are no user-serviceable parts
either in the electronics or the positioning systems.
Maintenance Periodic lubrication of the elevating
assembly is the only routine maintenance proce-
dure. To lubricate the elevating assembly, apply a
liberal amount of silicone-spray lubricant to the
hinges and pins with the lift in the down position.
Then run the lift up and down a few times to
distribute lubricant (Figure 19.28).

Figure 19.28 Winegard self-seeking satellite-antenna system elevating mechanism (exploded view)
■ FAN-TASTIC VENT ■
The Fan-Tastic Vent company has more than half a
century of experience, and there are several early mod-
els of its product in circulation. The company cur-
rently manufactures four models, three of which are
power roof vents, while the fourth is a static non-
powered vent. All models fit a standard 14 x 14-inch
roof vent opening, and feature a removable screen
for easy cleaning. It is the power vent models are the
ones that require periodic maintenance or trou-
bleshooting.
Model 4000R is a three-speed reversible unit that
will exhaust air from the RV or intake air from out-
side. When the cover is opened approximately 2
inches, the fan blade is automatically activated. If de-
sired, the fan can be turned off by placing the In/Out
switch into the neutral position.
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.43
Model 5000 RBT does all the things the 4000 will
do and adds a thermostat that senses ambient tem-
perature and automatically activates the fan until the
desired temperature is reached. Once that comfort
level is attained, the thermostat turns the fan off.
Model 6000 RBTA features everything the two pre-
vious systems offer in addition to an automatic dome
opener and built-in rain sensor.
Maintenance
Keep vent clear of debris that may enter and catch in
the screen while dome is open. Screen is removable
for easy cleaning.
NOTE: Do not leave fan in active automatic mode while the RV is
stored or unattended for long periods. High winds, other unusual con-
ditions or obstructions may prevent closing, resulting in leakage.
19.44 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem
Fan Blade Motor Inoperable
Lift motor knob hits garnish
Stripped lift motor gearbox
Noisy motor
Closed dome air noise
Stripped lift motor extension
F A N - T A S T I C V E N T
Possible Cause
Faulty dome switch or wire connection.
Faulty reversing switch
Faulty fan blade motor
Incorrect installation. Hole in roof for vent
must be square and plumb, and fan should
be centered in opening. If fan is installed tight
to the curbside of opening and knob is original
tooling manufactured by Fan-Tastic Vent prior
to 3/16/98, it may hit garnish.
Faulty lift motor
Dirty thermostat contacts create momentary
"err-err" sound from motor when dome is open.
Convex roof.
Bose installation screws at on angle.
Turbulent air flow around roof-top accessories.
Assembly sag and torque separation
■
Correction
See Figure 19.29
Using 7/16 inch wrench, snug dome
switch nut to ring connector
Remove dome, then dome switch. Open
contacts (depress plunger), check for corro-
sion or damage. If defective, replace
switch.
Replace switch
Replace motor
See Figure 19.30
Install newly tooled (smaller diameter)
knob, and/or remove garnish, plumb
opening and reinstall.
See Figure 19.31
If lift motor gearbox strips out on auto-
matic fans with wall thermostat (Models
2000T, TS or TRS) built between Jan '96
and Feb. '98, change the lift motor by
removing two Phillips screws in motor cap,
pull motor assembly down and unplug.
Then reinstall new motor.
Install thermostat delay to eliminate noise
and protect gearbox from over-tightening.
See figure 19.32
Build spacer out with No. 8 or No. 10
washers, and/or shave down using medi­
um grit file. Adjust, close and inspect, then
fine-tune if necessary.
When dome is properly adjusted, this cor-
ner contacts seal first, next the lift arm
side moves down over spacer until EPDM
bulb seal compresses slightly.
See Figure 19.33
Remove 3/8-inch screw.
Drill 3/16-inch hole through switch assem-
bly and build-up only.
Position 3-inch screw vertically, then self-
tap into main base. Snug flush by hand.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.45

Figure 19.29 Fan-Tastic Vent Blade Motor Service

Figure 19.30 Fan-Tastic Vent installation procedures to prevent lift-motor knob from hitting garnish
 19.46 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 19.31 Troubleshooting stripped BC lift-motor gearbox, Fan-Tastic Vent.

Figure 19.32 Fan-Tastic Vent closed dome noise elimination.


Figure 19.33 Fan-Tastic Vent stripped lilt-motor extension.
■ TRAC VISION ■
KVH TracVision Model L3 is capable of receiving sig-
nals from two satellites (switching from one satel-
lite to the other is as easy as changing TV channels
with the remote control), and tracking the satellites
while the vehicle is in motion. For the antenna to
track and receive signals from two satellites, they
must be within 10 degrees of each other in orbit. The
system features a pre-programmed satellite library,
and the operator may also add two additional satel-
lites to the library.
Model LM is capable of receiving signals from a
single satellite, selected from the pre-programmed
library of satellites, and delivering that signal to a
moving RV.
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.47
Operation
For either model of TracVision to operate, the an-
tenna must have a clear line of sight to the satellite. In-
termittent signal loss may indicate that trees, buildings,
highway overpasses, etc. are obstructing the antenna.
To use the system:
■ Turn on the satellite receiver and the televi-
sion.
■ Turn on the antenna power.
■ If the vehicle is moving, avoid turning for one
minute, to allow the antenna gyro to initialize
properly. If turning is unavoidable during the 60-
second warm-up and initialization period, the an-
tenna could experience a gyro failure or have
19.48 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

trouble tracking the satellite. In that case, turn off be turned on so the antenna can find the new
the system for at least 10 seconds, then restart, satellite.
making sure not to turn during the subsequent 60-
second initialization period.
Maintenance (Models L3 and LM)

For Best Results Monthly:

■ Make sure the antenna has a clear line of
sight to the satellite.
■ The antenna unit is designed to turn a full
720 degrees before coming to the end of its cable.
Should this occur, the system conducts an auto-
matic cable unwrap, rotating the dish in the op-
posite direction. During this process,
transmission will be frozen for approximately 10
to 15 seconds.
■ Passing through tunnels, under highway over-
passes or through dense urban areas can temporar-
ily disrupt reception.
■ When the vehicle is parked, confirm that the
antenna is receiving the satellite signal, then turn
off the unit to avoid unnecessary use of power. The
antenna will continue to receive the satellite sig-
nal. However, if you are using Model L3 and wish
to switch to the second satellite, the system must
■ Wash exterior of radome and baseplate as-
sembly with fresh water. A mild detergent may be
added to remove grime.
■ Do not spray the radome directly with high-
pressure water.
■ Do not apply abrasive cleaners or volatile sol-
vents such as acetone to the ABS radome.
Annually:
■ Remove the radome and examine the interior
of the antenna unit for signs of corrosion, loose
connections, or frayed or broken wires.
■ Clean and wax the radome.
■ Visually inspect the elevation drive shaft to be
certain it moves easily and is clear of grit and de-
bris. Clean and lubricate as required.

■ T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G ■
T R A C - V I S I O N

Problem Possible Cause Correction

No satellite receiver status message
Faulty receiver data port or cable/wiring
AC power fluctuating
Failed receiver status check
Confirm that the receiver is properly con-
nected to the antenna unit and the televi-
sion.
Shut down DC power to the antenna.
Remove the AC source, either at the
breaker or by unplugging the receiver.
Wait at least 10 seconds, then restore
power first to the receiver and then to the
antenna.
Check connections between receiver and
antenna.

Cycle power on and off and review startup

test results.
Faulty receiver Repair or replace receiver.
No picture on TV Outside satellite coverage zone May be traveling in fringe area. Check
satellite coverage zone information.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.49

■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G
T R A C - V I S I O N , c o n t i n u e d

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Incorrect or loose RF connectors Check all cable connections.

AC power fluctuation Shut down DC power to the antenna.

Remove the AC source, either at the breaker or
by unplugging the receiver.
Wait at least 10 seconds, then restore power
first to the receiver and then to the antenna.
Failed receiver status check Check connections between receiver and
antenna.
Cycle power on and off and review startup test
results.
Faulty receiver Repair or replace receiver.

Faulty LNB assembly Replace LNB.

Intermittent picture for short intervals Satellite signal blocked Move vehicle clear of obstacles.
Outside satellite coverage zone May be traveling in fringe area. Check satellite
coverage zone information.
Vehicle turning during startup Turn TracVision system off for 10 seconds.

Turn the system back on, making certain the

vehicle is either motionless of traveling in a
straight line for the next 60 seconds.

Incorrect or loose RF connectors Check all cable connections.

Faulty receiver data port or cable/wiring Confirm that the receiver is properly connect-
ed to the antenna unit and the television.

AC power fluctuation Remove the AC source, either at the breaker or

by unplugging the receiver.
Shut down DC power to the antenna.

Wait at least 10 seconds, then restore power

first to the receiver and then to the antenna.

Faulty receiver Repair or replace receiver.

Faulty antenna gyro Replace gyro.

Faulty LNB Replace LNB.

System works at rest but not when traveling Satellite signal blocked Move vehicle clear of obstacles.

Faulty antenna gyro Replace gyro.

System will not find satellite Satellite signal blocked Move vehicle clear of obstacles.

Outside satellite coverage zone May be traveling in fringe area. Check satellite
coverage zone information.
Vehicle turning during startup Turn TracVision system off for 10 seconds.

Turn the system back on, making certain the

vehicle is either motionless of traveling in a
straight line for the next 60 seconds.

Incorrect or loose RF connectors Check all cable connections.

 {
19.50 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G
T R A C - V I S I O N ,
Problem Possible Cause
AC power fluctuation
Failed receiver status check
Faulty receiver
Faulty LNB assem bly
Snowy Picture Faulty receiver
Receiver locks up AC power fluctuation
Failed receiver status check
Picture jum bles, parts m issing, freezing Dew or rain on radom e
■ KING-DOME AUTOMATIC SATELLITE SYSTEM ■
The King-Dome Automatic Satellite System (Figure
19.34) consists of a dish unit (dome) that is located
on the roof of the RV and a control switch that is in-
stalled inside the RV. The dish is covered by a plastic
dome that protects the components from the elements,
dirt and debris. Beneath the dome is a microproces-
sor-based circuitry that drives twin stepper motors to
pivot and tilt the dish on horizontal and vertical axes.
This system operates as a "line-of-sight" device in
locating satellites. It has been designed to find satel-
lites anywhere within the contiguous 48 states, with
a few exceptions. In order for the system to find a
satellite, the vehicle must be parked so the dish has
an unobstructed view of the southern sky. Trees,
mountains, building, overhead wires and other ob-
stacles can prevent satellite acquisition if they ob-
struct a clear line-of-sight.
■
c o n t i n u e d
Correction
Shut down DC power to the antenna.
Rem ove the AC source, either at the breaker or
by unplugging the receiver.
W ait at least 10 seconds, then restore power first
to the receiver and then to the antenna.
Check connections between receiver and
antenna.
Cycle power on and off and review startup test
results.
Repair or replace receiver.
Replace LNB.
Repair or replace receiver.
Shut down DC power to the antenna.
Rem ove the AC source, either at the breaker or
by unplugging the receiver.
W ait at least 10 seconds, then restore power first
to the receiver and then to the antenna.
Check connections between receiver and antenna.
Cycle power on and off and review startup test
results.
Spray radom e with hosed water to rem ove dew.
Apply liquid dish detergent to radom e surface,
wipe the full-strength detergent on and allow it
to dry. This will provide a film that will help
m oisture bead and roll off the radom e.
Essential components that are not part of the sys-
tem are the TV and a satellite receiver, which the
owner must supply. The King-Dome system is set up
at the factory for DIRECTV service. If Dish Network
will be used, the system must be re-programmed
by a certified dealer.
Maintenance
The only routine maintenance required is to keep
the dome clean of dirt, bugs and other debris. If the
dome becomes dirty, signal strength may be nega-
tively affected. Periodic washing of the dome with
mild soap and water is recommended.
If the RV will be in storage for a long period of
time, it is recommended that the system be run
through a search procedure on a quarterly basis, to
keep all moving parts free.

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
K I N G - D O M E A U T O M A T I C
Problem Possible Cause
Search is complete, but no satellite is found Line-of-sight obstruction
Faulty coaxial cable
Figure 19.34 King Dome satellite dish system
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.51
S A T E L L I T E S Y S T E M
Correction
Move vehicle to gain a clear sight of the
southern sky.
Lower manual crank-up antenna.
May not be able to find satellite during
stormy weather.
Check entire length of coax for sharp
bends or bad connections.
Confirm coaxial cable is a direct connection
between dish and the "fa" port on back of
receiver.
 19.52 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
■ CRUISETV STS ■
The CruiseTV STS system provides more than 200
channels of digital television and CD quality audio
while the vehicle is traveling in the lower 48 states,
when the antenna has a clear view of the southern
sky.
The low-profile antenna (only 9.5 inches tall) uti-
lizes a phased array and an LNBF to receive the DBS
satellite signals. A protective cover called a radome
covers the antenna and drive motors.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove the radome cover.
The dish is automatically and continuously aimed
at the satellite by onboard control electronics while
the vehicle travels. This is accomplished through the
use of solid-state satellite tracking technology. The
unit is compatible with all DirectTV type receivers.
Satellite Acquisition
Acquisition and continual tracking of the satellite
is completely automatic, requiring no action on the
part of the operator. Although the system is designed
to track signals while the vehicle is in motion, it is
recommended that the initial acquisition be done
while the RV is stationary. Initial acquisition will oc-
cur in less than three minutes. Subsequent re-ac-
quisition requires less than one minute for a
stationary vehicle, but may take several minutes if
the vehicle is in motion.
Operating Tips
■ Allow the system to warm up for one minute
before placing the vehicle in motion—this will
help minimize signal loss in the first few minutes.
■ Satellite acquisition may be accomplished
while the vehicle is in motion, but for best results,
the vehicle should be moving in a straight line. Al-
low three minutes for acquisition when in motion.
■ When parking where the antenna will be
blocked from the satellite (under cover, among tall
trees, behind a building, etc.) it is recommended
to turn the antenna off.
■ When stationary for a long period of time,
turn the antenna tracking system off after acquir-
ing the signal. This will prolong the life of the an-
tenna and reduce drain on the vehicle battery.
■ If the antenna loses the signal for five min-
utes or more, turn off the power and then turn it
on again to reboot the system.
■ While traveling at a high rate of speed around
sharp corners, the signal may be momentarily lost.
This is normal, and the signal should reappear in a
few seconds.
Maintenance
■ Do not attempt to remove the radome cover.
Water and/or dirt may contaminate and damage
the system.
■ Clean bugs and dirt from the outside of the
radome using only water and a mild detergent.
■ In conditions of heavy dew, operation will be
improved by wiping excess moisture off the
radome or spraying the unit off with a water hose.
When the vehicle is in motion, the moisture will
be blown from the radome. It is recommended
that the radome be treated with water repellent
such as Rain-X or Brillanize to minimize moisture
buildup.
■ It is recommended to have an authorized Da-
tron dealer inspect and service the antenna system
once a year.
Compass Calibration
Two methods can be employed to re-calibrate the
system compass. The first can be accomplished by
anyone without special equipment, but the second
requires a computer running Windows 95 or a later
version, a download cable and special software. The
following instructions apply only to the first method.
IMPORTANT: During compass calibration, the software will also
calibrate the antenna phased array cold sky readings. To ensure proper
calibration of the phased array, reset the DirectTV receiver before be-
ginning the compass calibration by unplugging the power for 30 sec-
onds. An alternative is to place the receiver in "Search for Satellite"
mode for three minutes prior to beginning the calibration routine.
The antenna must be placed in reset mode. This
mode is invoked by cycling the antenna power switch
five times (on for 10 seconds, off for two seconds).
At the end of this power reset, the antenna will auto
calibrate the rate sensors and place the antenna in
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.53

compass calibrate mode. ■ SLIDE-OUT ROOM SYSTEMS ■

Turn the vehicle in a slow circle. It is better to turn
more than 360 degrees than to fail to complete a full
circle. Calibration must be completed within three
minutes. Failure to complete a full circle within the
specified time will result in calibration failure. Af-
ter making the circle, do not move the vehicle or
cycle power to the antenna until the full three min-
utes has elapsed.
Once this procedure has been completed, the an-
tenna will automatically enter search mode and lo-
cate the correct satellite. If the antenna fails to locate
the satellite within 10 minutes, repeat the calibra-
tion process.
There are three general types of slide-out room sys-
tems: 12-volt DC electric-motor-driven systems, high-
pressure hydraulic systems, and hybrid systems that
use either electric, hydraulic, or mechanical power
to operate cable-controlled systems. None of these
systems is user serviceable or adjustable.
Although all slide-out systems use electric or hy-
draulic motors, the methods that are used to move
the slide are varied. Fortunately, slide-out mecha-
nisms have become very reliable over the last few
years and usually require little maintenance.
Electric-powered systems are available in a number

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
C R U I S E T V STS

Problem Possible Cause Correction

No screen display Switch not turned on Turn on switch.

Monitor not turned on Turn on or plug in monitor.

Receiver not turned on Turn on or plug in receiver.

Battery dead Recharge or replace battery.

Power not connected to battery Connect power to battery.

Antenna not connected Connect missing/loose cable.

Bad switch Replace switch.

"Searching for satellite" continuously View is obstructed Move vehicle to new location.
displayed on monitor Antenna coax not connected Connect all cables.
Radome covered with debris Clean radome.

Initialized during excessive motion Stop motion during initialization.

Radome covered with moisture Spray radome with hose, or wipe excess
moisture from radome, or drive vehicle to
remove moisture.
Compass out of calibration Re-calibrate compass.

Momentary freeze frame View obstructed Normal operation

Large vehicular motion Normal operation

Continuous freeze frame Receiver malfunction Turn off receiver, then turn on again to
reboot.

Picture pixeling View obstructed Normal operation

Large vehicular motion Normal operation

"Searching for satellite" displayed on monitor Long duration view obstruction Normal operation, picture should return
within three minutes.
Very large vehicular motion Reboot system

Picture does not return after blockage Compass out of calibration Re-calibrate compass.
19.54 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
of configurations, including those that use a screw
mechanism (Figures 19.35 and 19.36), a cable and
track (Figure 19.37), a sawtooth rack-and-pinion (Fig-
ure 19.38), or a flush-floor rack-and-pinion (Figure
19.39) .
Electrically driven hydraulic slide-outs (Figure
19.40) use valving to extend and retract the rams. In
some systems, the hydraulic extender ram uses a rack-
sensing valve to control the limits of extension and
retraction. Flow-divider valves are used to insure that
the slide operates equally in an outward and retrac-
tion stroke by balancing the pressure between the
two (or more) driving rams. Hydraulic extenders that
use pulleys and cables operate the same as the elec-
tric types, with the only difference being the mo-
tive force being used.
An interesting variant of the hydraulic slide-out
room system is the Fleetwood E-Z Glide system (Fig-
Figure 19.35 Barker rollout single-module slide-out mechanism
ure 19.41), which uses only one cylinder per slide
and a traversing rod that links the two-room exten-
sion/retraction arms together. The system transfers
the weight of the room from the side wall of the RV
onto the chassis.
HWH Spacemaker Room Extension Systems
Manual Room-Retract Procedure
If one side of the slide-out room fails to move when
extending or retracting, release the room-control
switch immediately. The rack-sensing valve plunger
may be stuck, bent, or not touching the strike plate
(Figure 19.42). Also, for further help see "Trou-
bleshooting the HWH Room Extension System" on
pages 19.61-19.63.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.55

Figure 19.36 Screw-type slide-out room mechanism

Figure 19.37 Cable and track slide-out room mechanism

19.56 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 19.38 Sawtooth rack-and pinion slide-out room mechanism

Figure 19.39 Flush-floor rack-and-pinion slide-out room mechanism


Figure 19.40 Electrically driven hydraulic slide-out room pump and piston rod
1. If possible, repair the valve before retracting
the room.
2. If repair is not possible, release the pressure
on the manual retract winch and remove
the check-valve cap from the back of the
rack-sensing valve.
3. Remove the check-valve poppet.
4. Replace the check-valve cap.
5. Retract the room using the manual retract
winch.
6. If applicable, retract the system leveling
jacks prior to manually retracting the room-
extension system.
7. Open the hydraulic pump/manifold sole-
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.57
noid valves about 6 turns using the T-han-
dles.
8. Connect the manual retract winch to the
room, following the specific instructions
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
9. Slowly retract the room by turning the
winch handle clockwise. Winching the
room quickly will increase hydraulic pres-
sure in the system, making the process
more difficult.
10. When the room is fully retracted, engage the
room-locking devices and leave the retract
winch in place until the system has been
repaired.
19.58 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

Figure 19.41 Fleetwood E-Z Glide slide-out room mechanism

Figure 19.42 HWH Spacemaker room-extension system


Cylinder Replacement
To replace the cylinder:
1. Extend the room until the cylinder-mount-
ing bolts are visible.
2. Open the extension solenoid-valve
T-handles.
3. Remove the cylinder-adjusting locknut.
4. Measure the distance between the end of
the cylinder-adjusting rod and the cylinder-
mounting plate. Add 1/4 inch to this meas-
urement to allow for easy adjustment of the
room after installing the new cylinder.
5. Remove the two hose-guide mounting
bolts.
NOTE: This step is only necessary if you are removing
the left-hand cylinder.
6. Remove the cylinder hoses from the sens-
ing valve and the tee fitting.
7. Plug the hose ends, and attach a wire to the
two hoses to help when feeding them back
through the extension tubes.
8. Remove the cylinder-mounting plate nuts.
9. Remove the cylinder assembly.
10. In preparation for installing the new cylin-
der, extend the new cylinder's rod about
1-1/2 feet. Some fluid will exit the fittings as
this is done.
11. Install the hoses from the old cylinder on
the new one. Take care not to overtighten
the fittings.
12. Move the mounting plate to the new rod.
Use the measurement from the old rod.
13. Feed the hose and the new cylinder into the
room-extension tube.
14. Line up the cylinder-mounting holes and
replace the bolts.
15. Reattach the hoses and the hose guide.
16. Push the rod in and reattach the cylinder-
mounting plate.
17. Close the solenoid valves.
18. Purge the air from the system by doing the
following:
■ Retract the room completely.
■ Extend the room 1 foot, and then re-
tract the room once again.
■ Extend the room 2 feet, and then fully
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.59
retract the room again.
■ Extend the room all the way, and then
retract the room completely.
■ Finally, extend the room fully and
hold the button toward Extend for
five seconds.
■ Check for leaks, and check the oil
level in the reservoir.
Cylinder Adjustment
To adjust the cylinder:
1. Extend the room all the way.
2. Turn the cylinder-adjustment rod in or out
until the room seals are properly com-
pressed.
3. Replace and tighten the cylinder-adjusting
locknut.
4. The In stop is adjusted by loosening the
locknut and turning the adjusting nut in
or out until the room seals are properly
compressed.
Rack-Sensing Valve Replacement
When replacing a rack-sensing valve, the T-handles
for both valves on the room extension manifold
must be opened five to six turns to relieve system
pressure. The two solenoid valves for the room ex-
tension need to be opened.
1. Loosen the rack-sensing valve-mounting
bolts.
2. Remove the adjusting bolts and the locknut.
3. Remove the 3 hydraulic lines from the valve.
4. Remove the mounting bolts and the valve -
adjusting bar.
5. Replace the valve, but do not tighten the
mounting bolts.
6. Replace the hydraulic lines, the adjusting
bolt, and the locknut.
7. Adjust the valve so approximately half the
plunger is visible.
8. Close the valve-release T-handles.
9. Make final adjustments.
19.60 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
Rack-Sensing Valve Adjustment
To adjust the rack-sensing valve:
1. If the valve side of the room is moving at a
closer distance to the vehicle, turn the adjust-
ing bolt counterclockwise one turn. If the dif-
ference is minor, less than one turn may be
sufficient.
2. If the valve side of the room is moving at a
greater distance to the vehicle, turn the adjust-
ing bolt clockwise one turn. If the difference
is minor, less than one turn may be suffi-
cient.
3. Extend the room an additional 12 inches,
then retract the room that same 12 inches
and check the measurement. The difference
in measurement should be less than 1/2 inch.
Repeat this procedure if necessary.
4. Tighten the mounting bolts and adjusting
locknut.
Servicing Hydraulic Systems
Maintenance of hydraulic-system slide-out rooms
consists almost solely of insuring that the hydraulic
pump is kept full of fluid. The proper procedure
for filling the fluid reservoir is as follows:
1. Fully retract the room and leveling jacks be-
fore checking the oil level.
2. Remove the cap from the top of the reser-
voir and fill to within 1 inch below the top
of the reservoir.
3. Use Dextron II or a high-quality multi-
purpose automatic-transmission fluid.
Safety Procedures for Slide-out Rooms
The following procedures must be followed:
1. Keep people and obstructions clear of the
room when extending or retracting. This
includes chairs, footstools, pet dishes,
and so on.
2. Always stabilize and level the coach prior to
extending the room. This removes much of
the stress that can affect the operation of
the slide mechanism.
3. Unlock all locking devices.
NOTE: If your extension-room mechanism has a manual
winch attached to retract the room, be sure to remove it
(disengage) before extending the room.
4. Make sure there is adequate clearance on
the outside of the RV to fully extend the
room.

T H E
Problem
Part 1:
The pump fails to operate when the
extension switch is pushed toward
"extend" and/or "retract."
Part 2:
The pump runs but the room fails to extend.
a. The pump runs under no load.
b. The pump runs under a load.
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.61
■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
H W H R O O M - E X T E N S I O N S Y S T E M
Possible Cause Correction
Power, control box Check power pin on the control box. If power is present, check
the "extend" and "retract" pins while pushing the room-control
switch. If power is present, replace the control switch.
If power is not present, check for 12-volt power on terminal
11 of the room-control switch. If power is not present on
terminal 11, check for power to the key switch from the red
wire in the room-extension control-switch harness. If power is
present, the key switch is bad. Replace the room operator's
panel. If power is not present, the red wire from the control
box is bad. If power is present on terminal 11, check terminals
12 and 13 of the room-control switch while pushing the switch
in both directions. If power is not present on terminals 12 and
13, replace the room-control switch. If power is present, there
is a problem with the yellow and black wires in the room-
extension control-switch harness.
Retract valve The retract valve is open. Make sure the solenoid valve "T"
handle is closed. Check for 12-volt power on the black wire
at the manifold. If power is not present, replace the refract
valve. If there is power on the black wire, unplug the black
wire from terminal 13 of the room-control switch. Check
terminal 13 while pushing the switch toward the "extend"
position. If there is power, replace the switch. If there is no
power, the black wire is shorted to 12 volts in the room-
extension control-switch harness.
Extend solenoid valve. The extend solenoid valve is not opening. While pushing the
room-control switch toward "extend," check between the yellow
and white wire of the extend-valve plug for 12-volt power. If
power is present, replace the extend solenoid valve. If power is
not present, check between the yellow wire and ground.
If power is present, repair the white wire in the plug. Low
power may prevent a solenoid valve from opening. If power is
not present on the yellow and white wire, check "extend" fuse
at the control box. If the fuse is blown, check the harness for
shorts. Then replace the extend solenoid valve if the harness is
okay. If the fuse is okay, check the "extend" pin in the connector
on the control box while pushing the switch toward "extend."
If power is present, the problem is with the harness. If power is
not present, replace the central box.
19.62 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
T H E H W H
Part 3:
The pump runs, but the room will not retract:
a). The pump runs under no load.
b). The pump runs under load.
Part 4:
The room moves erratically from side to
side as it extends or retracts.
Part 5:
The ends of the room do not move at an
equal distance from the vehicle.
■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
R O O M - E X T E N S I O N S Y S T E M , c o n t i n u e d
Extend valve, retract The extend valve is open. Make sure the solenoid valve
valve, wiring. "T" handle is closed. Check for 12-volt power on the yellow
wire at the manifold. If power is not present, replace the
retract valve. If power is present on the yellow wire, unplug the
wire from terminal 12 of the room control switch. Check
terminal 12 while pushing the switch toward the "retract"
position. If there is power, replace the switch. If there is no
power, the yellow wire is shorted to 12-volts in the room
extension control switch harness.
Retract solenoid valve, The retract solenoid valve is not opening. While pushing the
wiring, control box. room control switch toward "retract" check between the black
and white wire of the retract valve plug for 12-volt power. If
power is present, replace the retract solenoid valve, if power is
not present check between the black wire and ground. If
power is present, repair the white wire in the plug.
NOTE: Low voltage may cause a solenoid valve to not open.
If power is not present on the black and white wire of the
retract valve plug, check the "retract" fuse at the control box.
If the fuse is blown, check the harness. Then replace the extend
solenoid valve if the harness is okay. If the fuse is okay, check
the 'retrait pin in the connector on the control box while
pushing the switch toward "retract." If power is present,
the problem is with the harness. If power is not present,
replace the control box.
Structural problems. Check that the pivot bracket is free to pivot. Check that the
inner tubes are free of paint or undercoating. Check that the
left cylinder hydraulic lines are not wire tied the room closer
than 12 inches to the rack sensing valve support arm. Check
that the strike plate is mounted solidly to the room, and that
the rack sensing valve plunger is properly positioned on the
strike plate. Check that the plunger is not bent. Check that the
room itself is not binding on seals or other interferences. Then
replace the rack sensing valve.
Rack sensing valve. Adjust the rack sensing valve.

THE HWH R O O M - E X T E N S I O N
Part 6;
The room creeps out after being retracted.
Part 7:
The room creeps in after being extended.
Part 8:
Room does not seal tightly when fully
extended or retracted.
Part 9:
One side of the room will not move
while trying to extend and/or
refract the room.
■ RBW INDUSTRIES SLIDEOUT ROOM SYSTEM ■
The RBW Industries, Inc. rack and pinion slideout
mechanism (Figures 19.43 and 19.44) can be op-
erated either electrically or in manual override mode.
Units are available with or without slideout room
control. The slideout room control system utilizes
an electronic controller that senses electric current
at the motor, providing shut-off when the room
reaches the seal points. However, the room may be
stopped in its movement at any time by pressing
the switch. These control units are not field serv-
iceable.
RBW units without slideout room control systems
employ a wall switch that must be firmly held down
during room operation. When the room reaches the
seal points, the switch is released.
CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.63
■ TROUBLESHOOTING■
S Y S T E M , c o n t i n u e d
Extend solenoid valve, If the room creeps out more than 1 inch, the problem is most
extension cylinder, likely the manifold check valve is leaking. Retract the room
manifold check valve. completely. Remove the hydraulic line for the cap end of the
cylinder at the manifold. Hold the hose end in an upright
position. Press the rocker switch for that room to the "retract1
position. If fluid flows from the manifold fitting, the extend
solenoid valve needs replacing. If no fluid flows from either the
hose end or the manifold fittings, inspect the manifold check
valve. There is a spring below the cap. Do not lose the spring.
Check for cuts on the poppet "0" ring. Check the poppet and
cap for burrs, the poppet should easily slid in the cap. If the
check valve is OK, or fluid flows from the hose end, the room
extension cylinder should be replaced.
Oil leaks, retract Check for visible oil leaks. If there are none,
solenoid valve. replace the retract solenoid valve for that room extension.
Room stops. Adjust room stops.
Rack-sensing valve. Adjust or replace the rack-sensing valve.
Manual Override
The manual override mechanism is generally located
near the unit motor. The procedure for manually
overriding the system is as follows:
■ Before cranking the slideout, disengage the
motor from the room control or disengage the
motor from the wall switch by unplugging the
switch from the wire harness. Some units may
have a kill switch that must be activated prior to
manually cranking.
■ Insert the crank handle on the override crank
shaft and rotate until the room is at the desired
position.
■ When the room reaches the seal point, resist-
ance will be felt.
■ Remove the crank handle and reattach the
wall switch to the wire harness, or reconnect the
19.64 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

motor to the slideout room control, or deactivate or debris, and clean as necessary.
the kill switch (whichever applies). ■ Check room seals for integrity.

■ POWER GEAR SLIDEOUT SYSTEM ■

Electrical System Maintenance

■ Maintain 12-volt battery in fully charged con-
dition.
■ Clean battery terminals periodically.
■ Ensure all electrical connections are tight and
clean.
■ Check wires to motor under RV for damage.
Mechanical System Maintenance
■ Check support tubes for accumulation of dirt
Power Gear electric slideout systems (Figure 19.45)
are of rack and pinion gear design with inner rail as-
semblies that support the room weight. There is a
manual override that allows extension or retraction
of the room in the event of a power failure. The con-
trol features a load-sensing device that automatically
stops the motor when the room is fully extended
or retracted.
Important operational tips include:
■ Make sure the slideout room path is free of

Room doesn't move when button is pressed
Travel locks have not been removed
Inadequate electrical supply
Tripped circuit breaker
Defective wiring or ground
Excessive drag on slideout system
Wiring short
Malfunctioning control unit
Remove travel locks.
Check battery condition, recharge if
necessary.
Check breaker.
Check all wiring for integrity and corrosion.
Check travel locks.
Check for proper room alignment.
Connect motor directly to 12-volt DC and
test operation.
Check all connections between battery and
control.
Check fuse, replace if necessary.
Check all wires and connections between
control and motor.

Motor runs but room moves slowly Low battery or poor ground Check battery and ground.
Extremely low outdoor temperature Wait for warmer weather.
Obstruction in room path Check room path for furniture, clothing or
other obstructions.

Room begins to move but then stops Travel locks installed Remove travel locks.
Obstruction in room path Remove obstructions.
Motor runs but room does not move Broken or missing clevis pin Replace pin.

Shear pin broken on motor shaft Remove gear box from support channel,
replace shear pin.

Nylon hold-down pads missing Inspect support channel and repair as nec-
essary.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.65

Figure 19.43 RBW slideout mechanism

Figure 19.44 RBW bedroom slideout mechanism

19.66 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual

obstructions. ■ Locate the manual override on the driveshaft

■ Stay clear of the slide rails when the room is
being operated.
■ Install transit bars (if so equipped) on the
room during storage and transportation.
Manual Override
If the room fails to move when the control switch
is pressed, check the following before starting the
manual override process:
■ Be sure the system is turned on.
■ Check battery condition.
■ Make sure the transit bars are removed.
If all of those items check out, but the room still fails
to move, follow these steps to manually override the
system:
■ Turn off the On/Off switch
■ Locate the slideout conttoller. There are two
versions. For version 1, unplug the 6-pin wiring
harness from the conuoller. For version 2, remove
either the Motor I or the Motor II lead from the
controller.
■ Locate the slideout motor, which will be
mounted to one of the slideout rails. If the RV has
an underbelly covering, it must be removed to ac-
cess the motor.
■ Rotate the brake lever on the backside of the
motor counter-clockwise about 1/8-turn to the re-
leased position. This releases the brake that holds
the room in place.
opposite the motor.
■ Use a 3/4-inch wrench or socket to crank the
room in or out. If the system is equipped with a
gearbox override (optional), use the crank handle
to move the room.
■ When the room is fully in or out, apply pres-
sure to the wrench and return the brake lever to its
engaged position to ensure the room is locked
into a sealed position.
■ Install transit bars.
Maintenance
CAUTION: Do not work on the slideout system unless the battery is
disconnected.
■ When the room is extended, inspect the inner
slide rail assemblies, and clean away dirt or debris.
■ If the system squeaks, apply a coat of light-
weight oil to the driveshaft and roller areas, then
remove excess oil. Do not use grease.
■ ATWOOD SLIDEOUT ROOM SYSTEM ■
Atwood's slideout system is available with either
manual or automatic controls. The difference be-
tween the two is that the control buttons on the au-
tomatic system are momentary and do not need to
be held down during room movement. Also, there
is a low voltage disconnect feature that disables the

■ TROUBLESHOOTING ■
P O W E R G E A R S L I D E O U T S Y S T E M

Problem Possible Cause Correction

Room does not move and motor does not turn
Room does not seal
Room starts to move but then stops
Room moves very slowly
Excessive drag on room Check to see that transit bars are removed.
Motor brake lever disengaged Engage brake lever.
An obstruction blocking path of room Remove obstruction.
Debris between the gear and rack Remove debris.
Dirt or corrosion build-up Remove dirt or corrosion, then lubricate
with light coat of oil.
Insufficient battery voltage Recharge or replace battery.
 CHAPTER 19 Accessories 19.67

Figure 19.45 Power Gear slideout system

19.68 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
control system when the power source is not pro-
viding sufficient power. On the other hand, the but-
tons on the manual control system must be pushed
and held down to continue room movement.
■ T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G
A T W O O D
Problem
Room fails to operate when control
switch is pressed
Room runs slowly
Room stops prematurely
Repetitive metallic sound
Room fails to seal
Room is extended and will not retract
Manual Override
If power is not available, use a 3/4-inch socket to turn
the hex nut in the direction of the arrow to extend the
room, or in the opposite direction to retract the room.
■
S L I D E O U T R O O M S Y S T E M
Possible Cause Correction
Control button not pressed Press the button.
Room already fully extended or retracted Press the control button in both directions
to verify if room is already fully extended
or retracted.
Inadequate electrical power Check 12-volt battery under load. If volt-
age is lower than 9 volts, replace battery.
W hile pressing the On and In buttons
simultaneously, check voltage at the motor
with a voltmeter. If no voltage, the prob-
lem is in the buttons, control or wiring.
Check all system wiring, looking for bro-
ken connection.
Inadequate electrical power Check 12-volt battery voltage. If voltage is
lower than 9 volts, charge or replace bat-
tery.
Control Release In/Out button, pause 2-3 seconds
then press button again.
Inadequate electrical power Check 12-volt battery voltage. If voltage is
less than 9 volts, charge or replace battery.
Physical interference Inspect underside of RV to look for cross
shaft obstruction.
Stop-screw adjustment Adjust stop screws to provide for sufficient
room travel to allow seals to compress 1/4
to 3/4 inch.
Power failure Rotate 3/4-inch hex drive in opposite
direction of the arrow to manually retract
the room.
Disconnect wire nuts at motor and use an
auxiliary 12-volt battery to apply voltage
to the motor. If room operates in wrong
direction, reverse the polarity.

Page numbers in boldface refer to figures, tables, and charts in the text.
accessories, 19.1-68. See also
awnings; levelers; slide-
out room systems; satel-
lite systems, television
antennas
AC generators. See generators, AC
acid/alkaline rain, 17.1
air-conditioning systems, 7.1-22.
See also compressor air
conditioners; evaporative
coolers
compressor air conditioners,
7.1-20
Dometic electronic wall
thermostat, 7.17-18, 7.17
Dometic heat and air
conditioning, 7.16-19
evaporative coolers, 7.20-22
RVP Multiple Zone Thermo-
stat Controller, 7.19-20,
7.19
air filters, 12.2
changing, 12.2
Airstream trailers, 17.7
alternators, 1.13-14, 1.21,
1.20-22
Delcotron CS, 1.21
and installation of battery
isolators, 1.21-23, 1.22,
1.23
voltage output, checking, 1.3
aluminum care and repair,
17.6-8, 17.7, 17.8, 18.2
amperage
defined, 1.6
determining from wattage, 1.6
wire size and, 1.6, 1.6, 1.7
antilock braking systems
(ABS), 9.12
INDEX
antennas, see television antennas
appliances, power consumption
of, 1.25, 1.26, 14.2 14.3
Atwood camper jacks, 19.32-35
Atwood fifth wheel landing gear,
19.28, 19.29, 19.30,
19.30-31, 19.31
Atwood power jack, 19.24,
19.25
Atwood Slideout Room System
19.66, 19.68, 19.68
Atwood stabilizer jack, 19.31-32,
19.33
Atwood water heaters, 3.17,
3.18, 3.21, 3.21, 3.26,
3.26-27, 3.27, 3.28, 3.28
Ausco Trail'r Brak'r, 9.21-24,
9.22
troubleshooting, 9.23
awning systems, 19.1-5
maintenance, 19.1-2
fabric, 19.1-2
hardware, 19.2
Barker rollout slide-out mecha-
nism, 19.54
bathroom care, 18.4-6
batteries, 1.10-23
12-volt, wiring in parallel,
1.17, 1.18
12-volt, wiring in series, 1.17,
1.18,
ampere-hour ratings, 1.11
charging, 1.13-17
components, 1.12
corrosion removal, 5.2
deep-cycle, 1.10-11, 1.25
depletion test, 1.11
determining state of charge,
1.13
INDEX 1.1
electrolyte management, 1.11,
1.12, 5.1
engine starting, 1.10
flooded-cell, 1.11
gel-type, 1.11
installing, 1.17
maintenance-free, 1.11
multiple, hooking up, 1.17
open-circuit voltage test,
1.12-13
overcharged, 1.15-16
power converters, 1.23-24,
1.24, 1.25
ratings, 1.11
reserve capacity, 1.11
six-volt, wiring in series, 1.17,
1.18
solar panels and, 14.1-14.3
for starting generator, 5.1 —2
sulfated, 1.16
testing methods, 1.11-13
troubleshooting, 1.13
undercharged, 1.16
voltage-drop test, 1.16-17
battery cables, 1.17-19
care of, 1.18-19
jumper, using, 1.19, 1.19
sizes, 1.17
battery chargers
charging guidelines, 1.14
smart, 1.14
battery floaters, 1.23
battery isolators, 1.19-23. See
also solenoid switches
electrical tests of, 1.21
function of, 1.19
multiple-battery, 1.21, 1.21-23,
1.22, 1.23, 14.1-3
troubleshooting, 1.21
1.2 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
battery isolators, continued
solid-state, wiring hookup,
1.26
voltage-drop test and, 1.16-17
battery terminals, care of, 1.18-19
bearings (wheel), 12.1,
12.20-23, 12.20
service and repair, 12.21,
12.22, 12.21-23
troubleshooting, 12.20-21
bearings (wheel), trailer
inspecting, 9.29, 9.29, 9.32
packing, 9.33, 9.33
removing and cleaning,
9.30-32, 9.31, 9.32
Big Foot Hydraulic Levelers,
19.19-20, 19.20
biocide treatments, 13.10
"blackbox," 12.5
black-water holding tanks,
4.19-20, 4.22, 4.22-23,
4.23
blinds, cleaning, 18.1-3
brake-adjuster tool, 9.29, 9.30
brake controllers. See under
trailer brakes, electric
brake lights, wiring, 1.29-30
brakes, trailer. See trailer brakes,
electric; trailer brakes,
surge
bug and tar removers, 17.4, 17.6
butane, 2.1
butane systems. See LP-gas
systems
campground hookups, improper
wiring and, 1.4
carburetors
engine flooding and, 12.7-8
in AC generators [see under
AC generators)
Carefree One-Touch awning,
19.3
troubleshooting, 19.4-19.5
carpet-stain removal, 18.1
catalytic heaters, 6.16, 6.17-18
maintaining, 6.17
troubleshooting, 6.17
Caterpillar diesel engine,
13.1-13.3
air intake, 13.1, 13.3, 13.3
cooling system, 13.3
fuel system, 13.1
lubrication, oil analysis, 13.1,
13.2
caulking and sealing, exterior,
17.10-11
ceiling paneling, cleaning, 18.3
chains, safety, 10.5, 11.7
charge lines, installing, 1.28-29
circuit breakers
for 120-volt AC wiring, 1.1
for 12-volt DC systems, 1.1
cleaner-waxes, 17.3
cleaning
RV exteriors, 17.1-5
RV interiors, 18.1-6
color coding, electrical system
AC receptacle, 1.6
four-pin plug/receptacles,
10.12, 10.12
seven- and nine-way
connectors, 1.30
wire terminals, 1.7
compressor air conditioners,
7.1-16
basement-type air condi-
tioners, 7.12-13, 7.13
coil fins, 7.12
components, 7.1, 7.3
compressor failures,
7.9-12
condenser coils, 7.11, 7.12
fan, 7.8-9, 7.9
filters, 7.7
Freon path, 7.5
heat-pump systems, 7.15-16
heat strips, 7.14, 7.15, 7.15
mechanical integrity, 7.12
operating failures, 7.7
operating principles, 7.1, 7.5
operation during cool nights,
7.1, 7.5
overload protectors, 7.9-10,
7.10
roof-mounted, 7.2, 7.3, 7.4,
7.5
safe procedures checklist,
7.1, 7.7-8
servicing, 7.5, 7.5, 7.6, 7.7-8,
7.8,7.9, 7.9-13, 7.11,
7.14,7.15-16
troubleshooting, 7.6
convection ovens, 16.1
converters. See power converters
coolant, changing, 13.3-5, 13.7,
13.7
cooling systems, 12.11-12, 13.3,
13.4,13.7, 13.7
analysis, 13.3, 13.5
belts and hoses, 12.11
countertops
cleaning, 18.4
Corian, 18.5
crimping tools, 1.7, 1.9, 1.18,
1.18
Cummins diesel engine,
13.3-13.5
air intake, 13.4
cooling system, 13.4
fuel system, 13.4, 13.4
lubrication, 13.3, 13.3-4,
degreasers, 17.4
Delcotron CS alternators,
1.21-22
diesel engines, 10.13, 13.1-10
air intake systems, 13.1, 13.3,
13.3-4, 13.7, 13.8
cooling systems, 12.11-12,
13.3, 13.4, 13.7, 13.7
engine oil, 12.3
fuel filters, 12.2
fuel systems, 13.1, 13.4, 13.4,
13.6, 13.7, 13.7, 13.8
lubrication systems, 13.1,
13.3-5, 13.6
oil analysis, 13.2, 13.10
operation of, 13.8, 13.10
differential oil, changing, 12.19,
12.19-20, 12.20
dinghy towing, 10.1-14. See also
hitch systems
on all four wheels, 10.7, 10.13

automatic transmissions and,
10.7, 10.13-14
brake use, 10.12-13
calculating weight allowance
for, 10.1
dollies and trailers, 10.3, 10.7-9
electrical connections,
10.9-13, 10.10, 10.11,
10.12, 10.13
hitch receivers and balls,
10.2-3, 10.4, 10.5,
11.4-6, 11.5, 11.6
lights and wiring for, 10.9,
10.11-12, 10.13
manufacturer's recommenda-
tions, 10.1-2
modifications and, 10.1, 10.2,
10.7
Remco lube pump and,
10.13-14
safety chains, 10.5
safety factors, 10.1
setup, 10.12
steering and, 10.14
tips, 10.14
tow bars, 10.5, 10.5-7, 10.6
towed vehicles, suitability of,
10.1
towing equipment, 10.2-14
with vehicle on trailer, 10.2,
10.4
distributors, 12.6-7, 12.7
distributor wrenches, 12.6, 12.7
dollies and trailers, 10.3, 10.7-9
advantages of, 10.8
checkpoints, 10.9
function of, 10.7
loading and tie-down, 10.8
lubricating, 10.8
Dometic automatic ice makers,
16.10, 16.11, 16.15
Dometic Heat and Air
Conditioning, 7.16-19
adjusting set point, 7.18
cooling fan switch, 7.18
electronic thermostat,
7.16-17, 7.17
liquid crystal display, 7.17
maintenance, 7.18-19
momentary switches, 7.18
operation, 7.17
system switch, 7.17-18
Dometic refrigerators, 1.30, 8.3,
8.4, 8.8, 8.12, 8.9,
8.19-20, 8.20-21,
8.22-23, 8.27, 8.30
doors, exterior, 17.9-11
Drain Master RV Automatic
Waste Valve, 4.23-24,
4.24, 4.25
drapes and blinds, cleaning,
18.1-3
Draw-Tite electronic brake
controller, 9.2, 9.21
drivetrain systems, 12.1-31.
See also individual
components
components, 12.1
driveways, care of, 17.12
Easy Rider hitch, 11.18-19, 11.19
Eaz-Lift friction-type sway-
control device, 11.12,
11.14, 11.17
Eaz-Lift hitches, 11.2, 11.6, 11.7
electrical systems, 1.1-40. See
also name of component
12-volt direct current (DC)
power
lighting, 1.25, 1.27
testing, 1.1-2, 1.2, 1.3
use of, 1.1
120-volt alternating current
(AC), 1.1
checking with multimeter,
1.2-3, 1.4-5
wiring codes, 1.4, 1.6
batteries, 1.10-23
charge lines, installing,
1.28-29
AC receptacle, 1.6
ground-fault circuit
interrupters, 1.4-6
Intellitec Electronic Climate
control, 1.36, 1.39-40,
1.39
troubleshooting, 1.36-39
Intellitec Electronic
Management system,
1.33-34, 1.35, 1.36, 1.40
INDEX 1.3
troubleshooting, 1.34
monitor panel systems,
1.30-32, 1.32, 1.33
plugs and receptacles, 1.30,
10.12, 10.12
polarity, proper, checking,
1.3-4
power converters, 1.23-24,
1.25
troubleshooting, 1.27
resistance, checking, 1.3
solar power, 14.1-5
tests and checks, 1.1-10
with multimeter, 1.2-3,
1.4, 1.5
with test light, 1.1-2, 1.2
of towed vehicles, 10.9,
10.11-12, 10.12
tow vehicles, 1.28, 1.28-30
wiring, 1.6-10
electric brakes. See under trailer
brakes, electric
engine flooding, 12.7-8
engines. See also diesel engines
identification of, 12.1
service and repair, 12.1-12,
troubleshooting, 12.4-5
types and varieties, 12.1
Equalizer Systems Hydraulic
Levelers, 19.21, 19.22
evaporative coolers, 7.20-22
checklist, 7.20
operating principles, 7.20
servicing, 7.21-22, 7.21
troubleshooting, 7.21
exterior care and repair, 17.1-12
aluminum, 17.6-8, 17.7, 17.8
awnings, 19.1-2
caulking and sealing, 17.10-11
exterior surfaces, 17.2-4
fiberglass, 17.6, 17.9-10
moldings and doors, 17.11
oxidation and, 17.1
roofs, 17.4-6
roof vents, 17.11
scratches, 17.2
screens, 17.11
tires, 17.3-4
windows, 17.9, 17.9
1.4 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
fabric care
awnings, 19.1-2
carpets and upholstery, 18.1,
18.6
Fan-Tastic Vent, 19.43-44, 19.45,
19.46, 19.47
faucets, repairing, 3.16, 3.16-17,
3.17
fiberglass care and repair, 17.6,
17.9-10, 18.6
fifth-wheel trailers
hitches, 11.1, 11.3, 11.8, 11.16,
11.17-18, 11.18, 11.19,
11.19-20, 11.20
jacks, 19.28, 19.28, 19.29,
19.30, 19.31, 19.31
finish restorers, 17.2
Fleetwood E-Z Glide slide-out
room mechanism, 19.54,
19.58
floor care, 18.3
forced-air furnaces, propane,
6.1- 15
Atwood Excalibur 8500-III,
6.12
cautions and warnings, 6.5
furnace-fan switches, 6.3-4,
6.4
gas pressure and, 6.8
ignition systems, 6.2
operation and flow of, 6.1,
6.1-3,
preventive maintenance, 6.4-5
safe use of, 6.3-4
sail or air-prover switches,
6.3, 6.3
service and repair, 6.5-9,
6.11-17
blower-motor failure,
6.14-16
burner lockout, 6.9, 6.11
burner-shut-off failure,
6.11, 6.13-14
gas-control valve, 6.6,
6.7-8, 6.8
main-burner failure, 6.8-9,
noise, 6.15
pilot-light failure, 6.5,
6.5-6, 6.6, 6.7, 6.7, 6.8
spark failure, 6.16, 6.17
Suburban, 6.13
temperature-limit switches,
6.3, 6.3
thermocouples for, 6.3, 6.3,
6.7, 6.7
thermostats, 6.2, 6.9, 6.9,
6.14, 6.15
troubleshooting, 6.10-11
types of, 6.1
venting of, 6.3, 6.7
fuel filters, 12.1-2, 12.2,
locations of, 12.1-2
replacement of, 12.1-2,
fuel pumps, electric, 12.8-9,
12.9, 12.10
installing, 12.9-10
furnaces. See forced-air furnaces,
propane
generators, AC, 5.1-36
air cleaners, 5.5, 5.7, 5.7
battery for starting, 5.1-2
carburetor adjustments,
5.10-12, 5.12
idle-fuel mixture, 5.11-12
main-fuel mixture,
5.10-11
carburetors, 5.10-11, 5.11,
5.12, 5.12-5.13, 5.13,
5.14, 5.14-5.15, 5.15
components, 5.12, 5.13
removal, disassembly and
reassembly, 5.12-15
choke adjustment, 5.16-18
cooling system intake/outlet,
5.2, 5.2-3
diesel, 5.9-10, 5.22-33
exhaust systems, 5.20, 5.21
fuel filters and pumps, 5.9,
5.9-10
function of, 5.1
Generac, 5.12, 5.12, 5.17,
5.17-18, 5.19, 5.20, 5.21
governor adjustments,
5.18-20, 5.20, 5.21
high-water-temperature shut-
down switch, 5.3, 5.3
Honda Portable AC Gener-
ators, 5.34-35, 5.36
troubleshooting, 5.34
ignition points and timing,
5.4-5, 5.5, 5.7
Kohler AC Generator, 5.5,
5.10-11, 5.11, 5.16-17,
5.18, 5.18-19, 5.28, 5.29,
5.32, 5.33
troubleshooting, 5.30-31
LP-gas-powered, 5.15,
5.15-16, 5.16,
maintenance of, 5.1-36
maintenance schedule, 5.1
oil and filter maintenance, 5.3,
5.3-4, 5.4, 5.7, 5.8
Onan AC Generator, 5.5, 5.11,
5.11-12, 5.13, 5.14, 5.15,
5.17, 5.19, 5.19, 5.22,
5.22-23, 5.23, 5.24, 5.25,
5.25
troubleshooting, 5.26-27
power rating and type, 5.1
service and repair, 5.1-36
spark-plug replacement,
5.8-9
troubleshooting, 5.6-7
glass cleaners, 17.4
grease, kitchen, 18.4
gross combination weight rating
(GCWR), 10.1, 10.2
gross vehicle weight rating
(GVWR), 12.25, 11.8
ground-fault circuit interrupters,
1.4- 6
ground wires, 1.30
Hayes-Lemmerz brake controllers
9.6, 9.14, 9.17-19
heating systems, 6.1-17. See also
catalytic heaters; forced-
air furnaces, propane
perimeter heating systems, 6.1
heat-pump systems, 7.15-16
Hensley Arrow Advanced Tow-
ing System, 11.4, 11.4
H&H A-frame jacks, 19.26
H&H outrigger jacks, 19.28,
19.28, 19.29
H&H Power A-Frame lack,
19.25, 19.26, 19.27, 19.28

hitch systems, 11.1-20. See also
dinghy towing
advanced systems, 11.4
ball mounts, 11.5, 11.6
classification of, 11.1, 11.4
conventional, 11.4-10
installing, 11.7-8
fifth-wheel, 11.1, 11.3, 11.8,
11.10-11, 11.17-18, 11.18,
11.19, 11.19-20, 11.20,
installing, 11.8
use of, 11.10-11
hitch balls, 10.1, 10.14,
11.5-6, 11.6
height, 10.2, 10.4
shanks, 11.5, 11.7
types, 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5
hitch receivers, 10.2, 10.4,
11.4, 14.4
load ratings, 10.3
secure attachment of, 10.3
maintenance, 11.17-18
safety chains, 11.7
selection of, 11.1
spring bars, 11.7, 11.7, 11.10,
11.10
troubleshooting, 11.16
weight-carrying, 11.1, 11.3
weight-distributing, 11.1, 11.2
use of, 11.8-10, 11.9
weight ratings, 11.1, 11.4
holding tanks, 4.19-20,
4.22-4.23
black-water, 4.19-20, 4.22-23,
4.23
Drain Master RV Automatic
Waste Valve, 4.23-24,
4.24, 4.25
dumping, 4.22, 4.22-23,
4.25-26,
gray-water, 4.1, 4.19-20, 4.22,
4.23, 4.23
macerator pumps for empty-
ing, 4.25-26
repairing, 4.26-27
tank heaters, 4.30
Honda Portable Generators,
5.34-35, 5.36
troubleshooting, 5.34
hot-water tanks, 3.17. See also
water heaters; water tanks
troubleshooting, 3.22-23
HWH levelers
care and maintenance, 19.6,
19.12, 19.12, 19.13-15
troubleshooting, 19.7-11
HWH Spacemaker Room Exten-
sion System, 19.54, 19.55,
19.56, 19.57-63
hydrometers
checking specific gravity with,
1.12, 1.14
temperature-correcting, 1.11
ice makers, 16.1, 16.8-16
adjusting, 16.11
component replacement,
16.11, 16.13-16
Dometic, 16.10, 16.11, 16.15
maintenance, 16.9-11
operating principles, 16.8
replacement of, 16.16
troubleshooting, 16.12-13
ignition systems
checking, 12.5-6
electronic, servicing, 12.5
forced-air furnaces, 6.2-3
ignition timing, setting, 12.6-7
interior care, 18.1-6
bathrooms and kitchens,
18.4-6
carpets and upholstery, 18.1,
18.6
floors, 18.3
general, 18.6
wall and ceiling paneling, 18.3
window coverings, 18.1-3
woodwork, 18.3-4
inverters, 1.24-25
determining size needed,
1.24-25
function of, 1.24
solar power and, 14.1
surge power, 1.24-1.25
troubleshooting, 1.27
typical installation, 1.26
isolators. See battery isolators
INDEX 1.5
Jabsco water pumps, 3.8, 3.9, 3.11
jacks
A-frame, 19.24, 19.25-26,
19.27, 19.28
A-frame or landing, 19.26
camper, 19.32-35
electric outrigger, 19.28, 19.28
19.29
leveling, 19.23, 19.23
stabilizer, 19.30-31, 19.33
"Jake" brake, 10.13
Jordan brake controllers, 9.6,
9.14, 9.15
adjusting, 9.19-21, 9.20
jump-starting vehicle, 1.19, 1.19
kitchen care, 18.4-6
Kodiak disk brakes, 9.24, 9.26
troubleshooting, 9.25
Kohler AC generators, 5.5,
5.10-11, 5.11, 5.16-17,
5.18, 5.18-19, 5.28, 5.29,
5.32, 5.33
troubleshooting, 5.30-31
leaks, LP-gas systems, 2.6-8,
2.10-11
levelers
A-frame or landing jacks,
19.26
Big Foot Hydraulic Levelers,
19.19-20, 19.20
HWH levelers, 19.6
adjustment, 19.6
four-point air-leveling
system, 19.14-15
kick-down jack, 19.11, 19.14
lubrication, 19.6
maintenance, 19.6
repair of various models,
19.12-15
straight-acting jack, 19.12
19.13-14
troubleshooting, 19.7-19.11
RVA leveling jacks, 19.23,
19.23, 19.24
levelers, hydraulic, 19.15, 19.16,
19.16-20, 19.20-21, 19.22
1.6 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
lights/lighting systems
12-volt DC, 1.25
checking voltage at, 1.27-28
clearance (marker) lights, 1.27,
1.27
dim, checking, 1.27-28
lights/lighting systems, continued
external, wiring, 1.29
fluorescent, troubleshooting,
1.29
incandescent, troubleshooting,
1.28
light bars, 10.9, 10.11
microwave ovens, 16.4, 16.5
for towed vehicles, 10.9, 10.11
liquid petroleum gas systems. See
LP-gas systems
LP-gas systems, 2.1-11
checking pressure, 2.6, 2.6
for AC generators, 5.15,
5.15-16, 5.16
ovens and ranges, 15.1
propane gas, 2.1-2
regulators, 2.5, 2.6-9
tanks and cylinders, 2.2-5
ASME tanks, 2.2-3, 2.3,
2.10-11
automatic changeover
regulators, 2.3, 2.9, 2.9
checklist, 2.4
cylinder guard stamping,
2.10, 2.10
DOT cylinders, 2.4, 2.4-5,
2.5, 2.10, 2.11
filling, 2.9-11
filling, removing, installing,
checklist for, 2.9
leak detection, 2.6-7,
2.10-11
liquid-level gauges, 2.10,
2.10
mounting, 2.3
overfilled, 2.9-10
POL fittings, 2.5, 2.5
QCC valves, 2.5, 2.5
stop-fill devices, 2.11, 2.11
troubleshooting, 2.3
lubricating chassis, 12.19
Magic Chef microwave oven,
16.3, 16.7, 16.8
Magic Chef ovens and ranges. See
also ovens and ranges
component maintenance
15.4-5, 15.7-9
component replacement,
15.9-12
automatic-shutoff valve,
15.10-11
calibration, 15.9, 15.9
oven burners, 15.11-12
oven doors, 15.11, 15.12
pilot-light assembly, 15.12
thermostat, 15.9
top-burner valve, 15.11-12
gas supply valve, 15.4
pilot lights, 15.1,15.4-5, 15.12
top-burner components, 15.8
troubleshooting, 15.2-3
magnets, trailer brake, 9.1,
9.26-27, 9.27, 9.28,
9.34, 9.36, 9.36
manometers, 2.6, 2.6, 2.7
McCall Air Ride hitch, 11.20, 11.20
metal polishes, 17.3
Microphor Microflush toilets,
4.9, 4.10, 4.12-13, 4.14,
4.15-16
microwave ovens, 16.1-7
cabinets 16.4, 16.5
cleaning, 16.2
components, 16.2, 16.3
door adjustment, 16.6, 16.7
door-hinge lubrication, 16.2,
16.4, 16.4
light replacement, 16.4, 16.5
maintenance, 16.2, 16.4, 16.7
operating principles, 16.1-2
shelves, replacing, 16.6-7,
16.9
stirrers, 16.6, 16.8
testing for leakage, 16.4, 16.6
troubleshooting and service,
16.2
mildew, 19.1-2
moldings, repair, 17.11
multimeters, 1.1
checking battery voltage with,
1.16
checking continuity and resis-
tance with, 1.3
checking manual-type on/off
switch with, 7.8
checking refrigerator with,
8.21-23
checking thermostat with, 6.9,
6.14
checking water-pump voltage
with, 3.10
digital, 1.1, 1.2-3, 1.4, 1.5
using, 1.2-3, 1.4, 1.5
Navistar diesel engine, Ford
Power Stroke, 13.5, 13.7
air intake, 13.7
cooling system, 13.7, 13.7
fuel system, 13.5, 13.7,
lubrication, 13.5, 13.5
Norcold refrigerators, 8.3, 8.5,
8.6, 8.7, 8.9, 8.10,
8.12, 8.19, 8.30
odor removal, 8.24, 18.6
oil
engine, changing, 12.3, 12.5,
transmission, 12.13,
oil filters, changing, 12.3, 12.3,
Onan AC generators, 5.5, 5.11,
5.11-12, 5.13, 5.14,
5.15, 5.17, 5.19, 5.19,
5.22, 5.22-23, 5.23, 5.24,
5.25, 5.25
troubleshooting, 5.26-27
open-circuit voltage chart, 1.12,
1.13
open-circuit voltage test, 1.12-13
ovens and ranges, 15.1-19. See
also Magic Chef ovens and
ranges; microwave ovens;
Wedgewood/Atwood
ovens
burner adjustment, 15.7-8
components, 15.1, 15.4
gas supply valves, 15.4, 15.5
maintenance, 15.8-15.9
operating and maintaining,
15.4-5, 15.7-9
oven safety valve, 15.4
pilot lights, 15.1, 15.4-5, 15.5,
15.7, 15.7

range hoods, 15.18-19, 15.19
cleaning, 15.19
fan-motor replacement,
15.19
ovens and ranges, continued
maintenance, 15.18-15.19
troubleshooting, 15.18
safety cautions, 15.18
thermostats, 15.1, 15.4
over-current-protection devices,
1.1
oxidation, exterior paint, 17.1
painted surfaces, exterior
environment and, 17.1
oxidation of, 17.1
photovoltaic cells, 14.1. See also
solar power systems
POL fittings, 2.5, 2.5
polishes, 17.3
polymer sealant, 17.3
power consumption, typical
appliances, 1.25, 1.26,
14.2, 14.3
power converters, 1.23-25
checking or monitoring, 1.24
dual-output, 1.23, 1.24
function of, 1.23
single-output, 1.23, 1.25
types of, 1.23
Power Gear Slideout System
19.64, 19.66, 19.67
power inverters. See inverters
PrecisionTemp Instantaneous
water heaters, 3.33,
3.33-35
propane
physical characteristics, 2.1-2
weight of 2.1, 2.2
propane systems. See LP-gas
systems
PullRite hitch, 11.4
QCC valves, 2.5, 2.5
Quantum brake controllers,
9.6, 9.19-20
range hoods
cleaning, 15.19
fan-motor replacement, 15.19
maintenance, 15.18-15.19
troubleshooting, 15.18
ranges. See ovens and ranges
RBW Industries Slideout Room
System, 19.63-64, 19.65
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control,
11.11-12, 11.13, 11.14,
11.15, 11.16-17
Reese friction-type sway-control
devices, 11.11-12, 11.13,
11.16-17
Reese hitches, 11.2, 11.6, 11.7
refrigerators, RV, 8.1-30
absorption system, 8.1, 8.2
troubleshooting, 8.13
bypass operation, 8.3
control panels, 8.3, 8.4, 8.7
cooling units, checking,
8.16-17
defrosting, 8.24
diagnostic codes, 8.2
diagnostic fault indicators, 8.5
display (eyebrow) panels,
8.3, 8.4
Dometic, 8.3, 8.4, 8.8, 8.9,
8.12, 8.19-20, 8.20-21,
8.22-23, 8.27-30
early-model, leveling, 8.5, 8.7,
8.9
electronic, 8.1-9, 8.20, 8.21,
8.22-24,
general maintenance, 8.17-30
burner assembly and flue
system, 8.17-20, 8.17
cleaning, 8.24
door position, 8.25
door switch, 8.24-25
electrode replacement, 8.30
flame blow-out, 8.26
flue tubes, cleaning, 8.25
gas leaks, checking for,
8.25
heater elements, 8.29
igniters, 8.29, 8.29-30, 8.30
odors, 8.24
power-module replacement,
8.20, 8.22-23, 8.23, 8.24
seal, 8.24
INDEX 1.7
setting burner flame,
8.19-20, 8.20
thermocouple flame-failure
safety devices, 8.26,
8.26-27, 8.27
thermostats, 8.28, 8.28-29
ice makers in, 16.8
LP-gas, 8.13, 8.14-18, 8.22,
8.25, 8.27-28
manual-control, 8.15-16
modes of operation, 8.2-3
Norcold, 8.3, 8.5, 8.6, 8.7,
8.9, 8.10, 8.11-12, 8.19,
8.30
operating suggestions, 8.12-15
overfreezing by, 8.15-16
problems, 8.9, 8.11-12
safety shut-off feature, 8.7, 8.9
troubleshooting, 8.14
regulators, LP-gas systems, 2.5,
2.6-9
automatic changeover
regulators, 2.3, 2.9, 2.9
freeze-up in cold weather,
2.7-8, 2.8
service and repair, 2.7
troubleshooting, 2.8
vent location, 2.7, 2.8
regulators, water-pressure,
3.15-16
resistance, checking, 1.3
roofs
fiberglass, care of, 17.6
metal, care of, 17.6
rubber, care of, 17.4-5
vents, 17.11-22, 19.43-44,
19.45, 19.46, 19.47
rubbing compounds, 17.2
RVA leveling jacks, 19.23,
19.23, 19.24
RVP Multiple Zone Thermostat
Controller, 7.19, 7.19-20
satellite systems
CruiseTV STS, 19.52-53
King Dome, 19.50-51, 19.51
Trac Vision, 19.47-50
Winegard, 19.38—19.43
sanitation systems. See also
holding tanks
1.8 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
scratches
exterior, 17.2
in woodwork, 18.3-4
screens, replacement of, 17.11
SeaLand Traveler toilets, 4.6,
4.8, 4.9, 4.11, 4.12, 4.13
short circuits
checking for with multi-
meters, 1.5
protection against, 1.1
shower curtains, vinyl, 18.6
SHURflo water pumps, 3.9, 3.9,
3.10, 3.11
sinks
fiberglass, 18.6
porcelain, 18.5-6
stainless-steel, 18.5
sinks and bathtubs, sealing, 3.17
slide-out room systems
Atwood Slideout Room System
19.66, 19.68
electric-powered, 19.53-54
cable and track, 19.54, 19.55
flush-floor rack-and-pinion,
19.54, 19.56
sawtooth rack-and-pinion,
19.54, 19.56
screw mechanism, 19.54,
19.54, 19.55
hydraulic 19.54, 19.57, 19.58,
HWH Spacemaker Room
Extension System,
19.54, 19.57, 19.58,
19.59-19.60
mechanically powered,
19.53-54
Power Gear Slideout System
19.64, 19.66, 19.67
RBW Industries Slideout Room
System, 19.63-64, 19.65
safety procedures, 19.60
types of, 19.53-54
solar power systems, 14.1-9.
determining requirements,
14.1
power consumption, by
appliance, 14.2, 14.3
performance tables, by
location, 14.4
photovoltaic cells, 14.1
solar panels
specifications, 14.1, 14.2
controller, 14.3-5, 14.4
and battery-bank size,
14.1-14.3
charging batteries with, 14.8
installation of, 14.5-6, 14.5,
14.6
locating, 14.6-7, 14.5, 14.6
maintenance of, 14.9
one-panel and two-panel,
14.3
self-regulating, 14.5
wiring of, 14.7-8, 14.7,
troubleshooting, 14.8-9
solenoid switches
arcing and, 1.20
disadvantage of, 1.20
fuel-shutdown, 5.10
how they work, 1.20
for isolating battery, 1.19,
1.20, 1.20
with silver-to-silver contacts,
1.20
starter, 12.10, 12.10, 12.11
wiring hookup, 1.20, 1.20
spanner wrench, constructing,
19.36, 19.38
spark plugs
installing, 12.10-11, 12.11
stain removal, 18.1
guide to, 18.2
starter system
faulty, diagnosing, 12.10
solenoid switches, 12.10,
12.10, 12.11
troubleshooting, 12.10
stop-fill valves, ASME tanks, 2.11,
2.11
storage of RVs, batteries and,
1.14
stoves. See ovens and ranges
Suburban water heaters, 3.17,
3.19, 3.24, 3.24-25, 3.25,
3.27, 3.27, 3.29-31, 3.30,
3.32, 3.32-33
surge brakes, 9.1, 9.2
suspension components, 12.17,
12.19
lubricating, 12.17, 12.17,
12.18, 12.19
sway-control devices, 11.11-17
adjusting, 11.16-17
checklist 11.17
Eaz-Lift friction-type sway-
control device, 11.12,
11.14, 11.17
installing, 11.11, 11.14, 11.16
operating principles, 11.11
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control,
11.11, 11.12, 11.14,
11.15, 11.16-17
Reese friction-type sway-
control devices, 11.11-12,
11.13, 11.16-17
types of, 11.11
taillights, wiring, 1.29
tar and bug removers, 17.4
Tekonsha electronic brake
controllers
adjusting, 9.16-17
Tekonsha hydraulic brake
controllers
adjusting, 9.18
installation, 9.12-13, 9.13
Tekonsha Prodigy brake
controller, 9.3, 9.3-4,
9.4, 9.5
Tekonsha Sentinel brake
controller, 9.2, 9.5, 9.5
Tekonsha Voyager brake
controller, 9.2-3
television antennas, 19.35-36,
19.37, 19.38, 19.38,
19.39, 19.39, 19.40,
19.40, 19.41, 19.41,
19.42, 19.42
terminals. See wire terminals
thermostats
forced-air furnaces, 6.1-2,
6.9, 6.9, 6.13-14, 6.14,
7.17-18, 7.17, 7.19-20,
7.19
oven, 15.1, 15.4, 15.9, 15.17
refrigerators, 8.28, 8.28-29

Thetford Aqua-Magic toilets,
4.1-6, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5,
4.6
Thetford Electra Magic recircu-
lating toilets, 4.11, 4.17,
4.18, 4.19, 4.19
Thetford portable toilets, 4.20,
4.21
tile flooring, 18.3
tires, 12.23-31
appearance and protection of,
17.3-4
inflation pressures, 12.25
information contained on,
12.23, 12.23
inspecting, 12.25
load limits, 12.28-31
load ratings, 12.23, 12.23,
12.25, 12.27
maintenance, 12.25-26
rotating, 12.25, 12.26
troubleshooting, 12.24-25
toilet chemicals, 4.27
toilets
freshwater, 4.1-9
Headhunter Royal Flush,
4.12-13, 4.15-16, 4.15,
4.16, 4.17
Microphor Microflush, 4.9,
4.10, 4.12-13, 4.14,
4.15-16
SeaLand Traveler, 4.8, 4.9,
4.11, 4.12, 4.13
Thetford Aria, 4.6, 4.6-9,
4.7
Thetford Aqua-Magic,
4.1-6, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5,
4.6
Thetford Bravura, 4.6, 4.7
winterizing, 4.3, 4.6
portable, 4.1, 4.19
Thetford, 4.20, 4.21
winterizing, 4.19
recirculating, 4.1, 4.17, 4.19
Thetford Electra Magic,
4.11, 4.17, 4.18, 4.19,
4.19
winterizing, 4.19
tow bars, 10.2, 10.5, 10.5-7, 10.6
checking, 10.6-7
cleaning and lubricating, 10.7
selecting and installing,
10.5-7
tow dollies, 10.3
towing. See dinghy towing;
hitch systems
tow vehicles
quick-connect kits, 1.29
wiring, 1.28, 1.28-30, 1.30
trailer A-frames
care and repair, 17.12
H&H Hi-Torque Power Jack
and, 19.25, 19.26, 19.27,
19.28
trailer brakes, electric, 9.1-37,
9.2
activation of, 9.3
adjusting shoe-to-drum clear-
ance, 9.29, 9.29
adjustment of, 10.8-9
armature, 9.1, 9.37
brake-adjuster mechanism,
9.34, 9.35
brake controllers, See electronic
brake controllers
brake drums, 9.28, 9.28
inspecting, 9.32
reinstalling, 9.37
testing, 9.28
brake linings, inspecting, 9.33
brake shoes, installing, 9.36-37
brake shoes, removing, 9.34,
9.34, 9.35
breakaway switch, testing,
9.26, 9.26
components, 9.2
dinghy towing and, 10.12-13
electric-hydraulic brake
controllers, 9.1, 9.5,
9.12-13
adjusting, 9.18, 9.19
installing, 9.12-13, 9.13
testing, 9.7
wiring, 9.13, 9.13, 9.14, 9.14
electronic brake controllers,
9.1-6, 9.2
adjustment of, 9.16-21
installing, 9.7, 9.11
INDEX 1.9
testing, 9.6-7
wiring, 9.11, 9.11-12, 9.13,
9.14
inspecting, 9.26-28
magnet and magnet assembly,
9.1, 9.26-27, 9.27, 9.28,
9.34, 9.36, 9.36
testing, 9.26-27, 9.27, 9.28,
9.28
operation of, 9.1
reassembling, 9.37
servicing, 9.30-37
testing procedures, 9.6-7
troubleshooting, 9.8-10
variable resistors, 9.26, 9.26
trailer brakes, surge, 9.1, 9.2
adjustment of, 10.8-9
trailers
wheel bearings
inspecting, 9.29, 9.29, 9.32
packing, 9.33, 9.33
removing and cleaning,
9.30-32, 9.31, 9.32
wheels
installing, 9.29-30
removing, 9.30
trailers, for dinghy towing, 10.3,
10.7-9
transmission fluid, changing
automatic transmissions,
12.13-15, 12.14
Gear Vendors overdrive, 12.15
standard transmissions,
12.14-15
U.S. Gear Overdrive/Under-
drive, 12.15-16
transmission oil, 12.13
transmissions, 12.12-16
service and repair, 12.13-16
types of, 12.13
trim, exterior, 17.11
turn signals, 10.9, 10.10
universal joints, checking,
12.16-17
upholstery stain removal, 18.1
vapor lock, preventing or
reducing, 12.8-10
1.10 The RV Repair & Maintenance Manual
venting
for gas-burning furnaces, 6.3
for water systems, 4.28,
4.28-30, 4.29
vinyl flooring, 18.3
vinyl shower curtains, 18.6
voltage-drop test, 1.16-17
voltage regulators, undercharged
battery and, 1.16
wall paneling, cleaning, 18.3
water filters, 3.6-7, 3.7
water heaters, 3.17-35. See also
hot-water tanks
Atwood, 3.17, 3.18, 3.21,
3.21, 3.26, 3.26-27,
3.27, 3.28, 3.28
electric heating element,
3.26, 3.26-27, 3.27, 3.28
with pilot assemblies, 3.17,
3.20-21, 3.21
main-burner adjustment,
3.24-26
thermocouples, 3.23, 3.36
PrecisionTemp Instantaneous,
3.33, 3.33-35
Suburban, 3.17, 3.19, 3.24,
3.24-5, 3.27, 3.27, 3.29,
3.30, 3.30-31, 3.32,
3.32-33
troubleshooting, 3.22-23
types of, 3.17
water-pressure regulators,
3.15-16
water pumps, 3.7-3.15
accumulator tanks, 3.15, 3.15
connections, checking, 3.4
excessive noise, reducing,
3.15, 3.16
Flojet pump, 3.13-15, 3.15
troubleshooting, 3.14
Jabsco pump, 3.8, 3.9, 3.11
overhauling, 3.9-11
service kits, 3.10
SHURflo, 3.9, 3.9, 3.10, 3.11
suction-water line, testing,
3.8-9
testing components, 3.7-9, 3.11
troubleshooting, 3.12-13
water systems, 3.1-36. See also
hot-water tanks; water
heaters; water-pressure
regulators; water pumps;
water tanks
air-compressor system, 3.1
demand system, 3.1
drainpipes, 4.28
faucets, repairing, 3.16,
3.16-17, 3.17
hand-pump system, 3.1
typical, 3.2
vent pipes, 4.28, 4.28-29,
4.29, 4.30
water pump, 3.7-15
troubleshooting, 3.12-3.14
water sanitation systems,
3.6-7
water filters, 3.6-7, 3.7
water tanks, 3.1-3, 3.3, 3.4-6
winterizing, 3.35-36
water systems, freshwater, 3.1-36
water tanks, 3.1-6. See also hot-
water tanks
capacity, 3.1
freshwater, repairing, 3.1-2,
3.2, 3.3, 3.3
hose connections and fittings,
3.4, 3.4-6
Flair-It fittings, 3.5-6, 3.6
maintenance, 3.1
Qest, 3.5, 3.5
removing, 3.1
sanitizing, steps in, 3.6
types of, 3.1
vent hose inspection and
repair, 3.3-4, 3.4
waxes, 17.2-3
Wedgewood/Atwood ovens and
ranges. See also ovens and
ranges
component maintenance
15.5, 15.7-9
component replacement,
15.12-18
oven burners, 15.15
oven doors, 15.14, 15.15
pilot light assembly, 15.16,
15.17
range top, 15.12
safety valves, 15.15, 15.16
thermostats, 15.17
top-burner valves, 15.13-14,
15.14
gas-supply valve, 15.5
piezo unit field repair,
15.18
pilot lights, 15.5, 15.5, 15.7
troubleshooting, 15.6
wheel bearings, 12.1, 12.20-21,
12.21, 12.22, 12.22-23
service and repair, 12.21,
12.21-22, 12.22, 12.23
troubleshooting, 12.20-21
wheel bearings, trailer. See under
trailers
wheel cleaners and polishes, 17.4
wheels, trailer. See under trailers
wind deflectors, solar panels
and, 14.7, 14.7
window coverings, cleaning,
18.1-3
windows, replacing, 17.9, 17.9
Winegard Television Systems
antennas, 19.35-36,
19.37, 19.38, 19.38,
19.39, 19.39, 19.40,
19.40, 19.41, 19.41,
19.42, 19.42, 19.43
Winegard Tenna-Tool, 19.36,
19.38
Winnebago TrueAir Basement
Air Conditioner, 7.13,
7.15
winterizing
toilets, 4.3, 4.9, 4.19
water systems, 3.35-36
wire terminals, 1.7, 1.9-10
automotive, insulation of,
1.7, 1.9
checking, 1.7
crimping, 1.7, 1.9, 1.9-10,
1.17-18
parts of, 1.7
solderless, 1.9
wire ties, 1.10, 1.10
wiring
checking, 1.6-7, 1.9-10
 INDEX 1.11

color coding, 1.7

conduits or wiring looms
for, 1.7
dinghy vehicle lights, 10.9,
10.10, 10.11, 10.11-12,
electronic brake controllers,
9.11, 9.11-12,
external lights, 1.29-30
ground wires, 1.30
hydraulic brake controllers,
9.13, 9.13-14, 9.14
installing, 1.7
for installing multi-battery
isolator, 1.22
moist or corroded, 1.5
nine-way, 1.30
polarity for DC system, 1.3-4
proper size, 1.6-7, 1.16, 1.21
protecting, during installa-
tion, 1.8
seven-way, 1.30
solar panels, 14.7, 14.7-8,
14.8
tow vehicles, 1.28-29
of typical RV, 1.8
of water pumps, 3.13
wiring codes, 1.4, 1.6
woodwork, interior,
cleaning, 18.3