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instructables

Make a Scale Electric Guitar

by drum303

I recently came across a Youtube video where Green Day fan and you want to make a replica of one
someone made three little guitars out of popsicle stick of their guitars, or even a bass. Follow these steps
s. I sometimes make tiny things and I really liked the and you can totally do it without a whole bunch of
video and how it was made. I feel like she did a really expensive tools or equipment. You can probably even
good job and made it seem super easy (it actually do a better job than I did. Continue on to the next step
was) and I felt like I wanted to try it. I used a lot of tips that shows you everything you need to build one.
in the video to make my own tiny guitar and it came You'll be surprised that you probably have most of it
out way better than I had expected. already.

I had made a few videos and instructables in the past Also of note: This isn't particularly a scale model
and kind of wanted to build an overhead camera rig to precisely, as I originally made it whatever size I was
document some of the stuff I've been making so I've comfortable with. Big enough that it wasn't impossible
done just that. Lets make something cool. to work with and small enough to be really cool.
Technically, its right around 1/6 scale, which is called
You can make this. Maybe you have a real guitar and "Barbie" scale in some circles. This is because
want to make a tiny replica. Maybe there is a certain Barbie is more or less 1/6 scale.
guitar you really want, or maybe you are a huge

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https://youtu.be/s2vZtcjfEpU

Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FXV/JG9U/JP8ZBWM0/FXVJG9UJP8ZBWM0.pdf

Step 1: Stuff You'll Need

Materials Super glue

1/4" thick basswood for guitar body (6mm) Silver metallic thread

1/8" thick basswood for guitar neck (3mm) Seed beads - silver if you have them, but they can be
painted.
Polystyrene for pickguard/pickups - I used Evergreen
brand but you can use recycled packaging if you Tools
want.

Metal pins for tuners - I found something called "eye Dremel or other rotary tool with drum sanding bits
pins" for beading. I got mine from Michaels but here is
an AMAZON LINK. Small coping saw or scroll saw

Stick pins for frets 150, 300, and 600 Grit sandpaper

Spray paint - depending on your design Razor/Exacto blade

Silver enamel model paint, for screws/metal parts Small file

Black enamel model paint, for detail work Tweezers

Clear spray enamel - for the clearcoat Masking tape

Wood glue 1/32 drill bit

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Step 2: The Body

I created a template you can use if you want to make After it is traced on the wood, cut the shape by
a standard Fender Stratocaster shape. Just print it following the line. I used a hand held coping saw but
out, cut it out and trace the shape onto your 1/4" you can use whatever you have. Basswood is super
basswood. I chose basswood because it is really soft soft so it wont take you long at all.
and easy to work with, and they have various sizes
and thicknesses available at most hobby or craft After the body was cut from the basswood, it was
stores. really rough and full of saw marks. First I sanded
around the outside with a Dremel tool fitted with a

small sanding drum. You certainly wouldn't have to at images of the guitar you are recreating. The
do this but it sped up the process of cleaning up the Stratocaster has nice rounded edges all the way
saw marks. around the front and back. Everything is really
smooth. Use the 180 grit to model those features.
If you are familiar with the Stratocaster shape, you Spend some time on this. Even though the basswood
are aware of the part on the back and the other area is soft, this part is really important. Make sure
on the front that is sanded down a bit more (see fig). everything is smooth
I've learned that Fender calls this the "Comfort
Contour Body" If you were wondering. If you are Continue with the 320 and 600 grit papers, often
making this or any other model, be aware of these looking at the photos of the guitar you are modeling.
features. Look for more pictures taken at different angles.
Follow these images as best you can and sand
After I sanded down those areas with the Dremel, I everything until its smooth.
switched to hand sanding with 180 grit. Look closely

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1. Sand down this area 1. Sand down this area

Step 3: The Neck

Making the neck is going to be pretty much the same having to start all over.
process as making the body. Cut out the paper shape
and trace it onto the 1/8" basswood making sure the After it is cut out, sand it just like you did the body
length of the neck goes with the grain. This is how beginning with the 180 grit sandpaper. Take note
real guitars made are and it is important. I cut this one though that the back of a guitar neck is usually a half
out with an Exacto knife. I had trouble cutting it out circle. I did round the back of my neck far more than
with the saw because the straight parts weren't the front, but not nearly half round like a full size
straight enough and the wood is really thin and brittle. guitar. The head is also set back a bit from the neck
The Exacto blade cuts right through the wood going as you can see in the photo. I chose not to do this but
along the grain. Use caution here though because it these would be a few things you could do that would
splits REALLY easy. I suggest making all your cross be more accurate than mine. After getting it nice and
cuts first. I split the first 3 I made and it might take you smooth with the 180 grit, move on to the 320 and then
one or two to get it right as well. If it does split at the to the 600. This shouldn't take long at all.
head though, you can glue it pretty easily without

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1. Make sure the wood grain follows the neck.

1. Cut these cross grain cuts first, getting them as deep as possible, if not
completely through.

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Step 4: Cutting a Notch Out of the Body for the Neck

Look at a guitar (or pictures of guitars) and notice that about 1/4th of the thickness of the body and make
the neck and fretboard are just slightly higher than the another cut along the top at the same depth. After
body to allow the strings to move. Hold the neck of you've cut most of the shape, use your exacto or a
your guitar on top of where it belongs on the body. small screwdriver to pry out the piece to allow the
Use a pencil to trace the shape of the neck that neck to be set into the body.
overlaps the body. Use your exacto knife to cut into
the body following the lines you traced. Cut down

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Step 5: Painting the Body

For this guitar I have chosen to do a "sunburst" type towel, similar to staining.
of paint job, although it may not be an exact replica. If
you choose to do a solid color, the process will be The second part of the "sunburst" pattern is the faded
similar. dark part around the outside of the body. To get this
effect, I used a small sponge. Pour out some paint,
The first thing I did was mix up some acrylic paint to "ochre" in this case, and dab your sponge in it. Then
the color I wanted. You may be better off using stain, get most of the paint off the sponge by dabbing it
but I didn't have anything close to the color I wanted further on a piece of news paper or paper plate.
so I made my own with acrylic. It seemed to work just
fine for me. After most of the sponge is dry, carefully dab it
around the perimeter of the guitar, using photos for
I used plenty of water mixed with the paint. Not reference. Make sure you get the sides pretty solid
enough that the wood got wet when i was painting, and the front and back faded evenly.
but it was really thin. This allowed me to paint it on
kind of sloppy and wipe off the excess with paper

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Step 6: Clearcoat

The first thing I did in preparation for the clear gloss grit sandpaper. This will knock down any bumps or
finish was to glue a piece of scrap to the body where bubbles and make the first coat a bit rough which will
the neck will eventually go. This will help you get a allow the next coat to adhere. make sure you are
nice even coat of clear that will dry really well. careful to wipe off any dust from sanding with a lightly
damp cloth or tack cloth if you have one.
When the glue on your new "handle" is dry you can
move on to painting the clear coat being careful to get Paint a second layer of clearcoat. You will notice this
a light even coat on both the front and back as well as one is much smoother than the first. Be sure to let it
the sides. Make sure that wherever you choose to dry thoroughly before continuing.
paint has adequate lighting and is well ventilated.
These steps would be the same if you were painting If you want to take it even further you could continue
yours a solid color with spray paint. with a few more coats and polishing them with finer
sandpaper or even car polish. There are plenty of
After the first coat, allow the paint to dry thoroughly youtube videos that will help you learn how to do this.
following the instructions on the paint you chose to
use. Then, lightly sand the entire piece with the 600

1. Doesn't look too nice after the first coat

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1. Sand with 600 Grit 1. Much better after the second coat

Step 7: PickGuard

The pick guard for the guitar I am building is black on wouldn't worry about it.
the front and back with white sandwiched in between.
To achieve this effect, I am making it out of white After you have it cut out and it fits correctly, sand the
polystyrene and painting it black. If you want a solid front face with the 600 grit sandpaper. This will help
color pick guard, you can make it out of scrap plastic your paint adhere better. Sand the edges a bit too, as
from packaging or whatever you have around. The you may find the exact blade creates sharp edges
polystyrene I use is Evergreen brand that you can get that will need to be knocked down. Thoroughly wipe
at most hobby stores. I keep a fair amount on hand. the piece to remove any dust. Tape a popsicle stick
or scrap piece of wood to the back of the plastic to
Cut out the pickguard from the pattern or use your use as a handle for painting.
own. After cutting it out of the paper, test fit it onto
your guitar body and make any necessary Paint the pick guard with gloss black spray paint. Use
adjustments to make it fit. Then, trace it onto your two coats if necessary and sand with 600 Grit in
chosen plastic material and cut it out with an Exacto between coats. After the piece has dried, sand
blade. Test fit it again and make any necessary around the perimeter edge of the pick guard to reveal
adjustments. This is in case you've slightly over- the white plastic, giving it the two tone look as seen
sanded your guitar body in previous steps. I had to on the real thing. Glue it to the body.
make a few adjustments on each of mine, so I

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1. Tape the pickguard to a piece of scrap to aid in painting.

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Step 8: Frets and Tuner Pegs

Take the template that you used to cut out your neck. just press them in farther. The wood is soft enough for
Place it on top of the neck you cut out and use the this.
red lines to mark where the frets are placed on the
fret board. Also use your Exacto knife to make tiny To prepare the neck to receive the frets, use a razor
marks where the tuning pegs go. Just poke the blade blade to cut a tiny slot where each fret will be placed.
through the paper and into the head just a tiny bit. This doesn't have to be too deep. Frets stick above
Then use your Dremel tool and a 1/32 drill bit to make the neck anyways, so this slot is just a spot for the
the holes for the tuning pegs, being careful not to drill frets to sit and somewhere for the glue to adhere. Put
all the way through (but if you do, its not too terrible. a tiny bit of superglue on a small stick pin and glue
You can fix it.) one in each slot. Use something hard to press them
into each of the slots. The glue will quickly soak into
Use your diagonal pliers (or side cutter) to cut 6 the wood, so after it dries enough to hold in there, put
pieces of wire from your beading needles or whatever another bead of glue across each fret. I did the
wire you chose to use for the tuning pegs. Cut these several times so that the frets were almost coated
to about 1/2 inch. I put each of mine in the Dremel with glue. This may take you a few times. Some will
and used a small file to remove the sharp points after fall out immediately and some will fall out in further
cutting them. You want these to be smooth. You steps. Just be patient with it and if they come out, just
could also just sand them down with sandpaper or glue them back in.
just the file if you'd like. Then cut the rough end down
so that when you put them into the hole you just When the glue has dried thoroughly (preferably over
drilled, they stick out about 1/8 of an inch. Test fit night) cut the extra wire off both sides with your side
these before gluing. cutter. Then use a small file or your Dremel tool with
a grinding bit to grind them flush to the neck.
After you have the tuning pegs in, check to make sure
they are even. If any of them stick out too far, you can

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1. Lightly mark the fret positions along the side of the neck. 1. Punch tiny holes where the tuner pegs will go

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1. Drill 1/32" holes 1. File any sharp points from these pins

1. Carefully glue the pins into the holes

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1. Cut thin grooves for the frets following the lines you made earlier

Step 9: Pickups

Cut a 1/8 inch (3mm) wide strip of polystryrene or scrap plastic for the pickups. From that strip, cut three pieces 3/8
inch (10mm) long. Use your Exacto knife or a nail clipper to clip the corners from each piece. This will help you to
shape it using 300 grit sandpaper. Carefully sand the edge of each of the pickups to a uniform rounded shape.
Glue them to the pickguard on the body.

1. Place the finished pickups.

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Step 10: Neck and Back Plates

Cut a 7/16 inch (11mm) by 9/16 inch (15mm) piece of polystyrene for the back plate. Round the corners with 300
grit sandpaper. Then cut a 3/8 inch (10mm) by 1/4 inch (6mm) piece for the neck plate. Round the corners for this
one as well, then use a toothpick to drop a tiny dot of glue to each corner. These dots will represent the neck plate
screws.

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1. Rough neck plate before sanding and detailing 1. Put a tiny dot of white glue on each corner to represent the screws.
These will show better after paint.

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Step 11: Bridge Assembly and Tuners

For the bridge assembly, cut a 3/8 inch (10mm) by silver model paint.
1/8 inch (4mm) rectangle and a smaller 3/8 inch
(10mm) by 1/16 inch (2mm) one. Glue them together After all your parts are dry, glue the bridge to the
at a right angle to represent the bridge. Then cut six body. Then glue the six tuner parts to the head. Cut
tiny squares 1/16 X 1/16 to represent the saddles, six 1/4 inch (6mm) lengths of wire from your beading
which are the small parts the strings come through. needles and glue one up against each of the tuner
Glue these onto the bridge. bodies. When the glue has dried, cut them to even
lengths. Finally glue a silver bead on the end of each
Then, cut six more 3/8 inch (10mm) squares for the piece of wire to represent the tuners.
tuner bodies and paint each of these pieces with

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1. Glue the two pieces together to create the bridge. 1. Cut out six small squares for the tuner bodies.

1. The dots of glue really show now. 1. Glue the tuner bodies to the head.

1. Cut each of these to the same length.


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1. Cut each of these to the same length.

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1. Glue a silver bead onto each one. 1. Closeup of the bridge assembly. Ill need to trim a bit off.

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1. Bridge
2 2. Saddles

Step 12: Body Detail

Glue the neck plate and back plates to the back of the held at an angle and just pressed it into the body to
body. Paint six black marks on the back plate to get the shape I was looking for. Use an Exacto blade
represent the holes. You could actually drill them, but to clean it up a bit then paint the opening silver.
I noticed that they weren't as noticeable that way.
Note that they are offset to the right slightly. Then use Use the same fine paintbrush to put six dots on each
silver paint to create the tiny screws that hold the of the pickups to represent what I believe are called
back plate on. Note that they are not placed uniformly the "slugs" or the exposed metal parts of the pickups.
either. Then create two screws outside each pickup. Finally,
create the pickguard screws using an image or real
On the front, use your Dremel tool to cut the hole for guitar for reference.
the output jack. I used a triangle shaped cutting bit

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1. Finished back plate with screws and holes 1. Cutting the hole for the input jack

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1. Painting the input jack 1. The bridge has been placed and all the screw dots are painted

Step 13: Neck Detail

Glue a thin strip of polystyrene or scrap plastic to the After everything has dried completely, you can glue
top of the head to represent the nut. I used a piece of the neck to the body. I used a glue called E6000. It is
"evergreen" brand half round polystyrene because I thick and heavy and allowed my to make sure I glued
had it from another project. If you use scrap plastic, the neck on perfectly straight while filling in any gaps
paint it white. I might have had.

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1. This is called the "nut" for some reason. Glue this on and trim the 1. Paint the marker dots on the fretboard
excess.

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1. Glue the neck on


2. Glue the neck on

Step 14: Knobs

I made the knobs from white polymer clay. This is the that I had no idea about the size the knobs should be.
kind that you put in the over at a low temperature for I simply made them to whatever size I thought looked
a while to harden it. right, and measured them after the fact. 5/16 and 3/6
looks right to me.
Roll out two small tubes of clay, one 5/32 inch (5mm)
in diameter and another 3/32 (3mm). Use your Exacto Follow the instructions from your polymer clay to
knife to slice out three small disks from each. Use the bake/cure it. When the pieces have hardened and
back of the exacto knife or any other flat object to thoroughly cooled, glue them to the pickguard on the
press the tiny disks to uniform circles. Then place one body.
of the small ones on top of each of the larger ones,
lightly pressing them together so they will stick. Note

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1. Cut three of these 1. Cut three smaller ones too.

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1. Place the small one on top of the larger one and lightly press them 1. Glue your knobs on.
together.

Step 15: Strings

Cut six 8-10" lengths of metallic thread for the strings. least two times around the pin, making sure to keep
Glue one piece to each of the saddles on the bridge the tension high. Either hold the extra part of the
paying close attention to the spacing. They need to string until the glue has dried enough to hold it, or you
be evenly spaced so that they will look correct on the can tape it down.
neck and across the nut.
Continue the same steps for the rest of the strings.
After the glue has dried securing the strings to the After the glue has dried, cut the excess string using a
bridge, you can continue with the tuning pins. Put a scissors or razor
dab of glue on the first pin and wrap the first string at

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1. First string connected 1. All the strings connected

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1. First string connected at the top 1. Connect all the strings!!!

1. Trim off the extra material.

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Step 16: Selector Switch

To create the selector switch, I cut a small slit in the plastic bonded the needle sufficiently. Then use a
pick guard to represent the switch slot. It actually nipper or side cutter to trim off the excess.
wasn't a full slot. I just removed a small slice of paint
there. Then I heated up the tip of a sewing needle I also painted some black details on the knobs to
with a torch. Grab a small pliers to hold the needle. represent the text that painted on the full size
Hold it in the flame and wait until it glows nice and red versions.
and then use the pliers to stick it into the plastic at the
proper angle. No glue is necessary as the melted

1. Selector switch slot 1. FIRE!!

1. Just paint lines and dots here

Now you need to make a little tiny working Marshall amp and have a mini Jam session :)

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