Professional Documents
Culture Documents
At the end of September 1801, Alexander von Humboldt and his com-
panion, the botanist Aimé Bonpland, were impatient to begin crossing the
western ridge of the Andes via the Quindío Pass (in present-day Colom-
bia). They were being forced to hire silleros, men who made scant livings
carrying travelers, strapped to their backs in bamboo chairs, across the
mountains (fig. 3.1). Neither their Creole hosts in Ibagué nor the silleros
themselves would allow the two to cross on foot: the path across the
Quindío massif was a narrow river of mud, often eroded several meters be-
low the surrounding terrain, and filled with deep, leg-breaking ditches
worn by the steps of the countless oxen that carried goods, not people,
Copyright © 2005. University of Chicago Press. All rights reserved.
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
44 • michael dettelbach
sturdy, impoverished male in the district was drawn to the trade, their la-
bor quickly and unproductively expended in exhaustion and illness. In
this way, a whole class of industrious men was given over to vagabondage,
exhaustion, and illness, impelled by their natural longing for freedom and
independence. It behooved the colonial government or enlightened pri-
vate persons to improve the road over Quindío and to eliminate or restrict
the trade, “to give human energy a direction more useful to society.”
So despite the obstacles before him, Humboldt resolved to traverse the
pass on foot. The crossing (he wrote in his journal) would be “nothing
that extraordinary for men like us, who customarily walk 6 –9 leagues a
day, who have waded through rivers and lived for months in the forests
among the Indians.” In doing so, Humboldt was defying his hosts with a
demonstration not just of fellow feeling, but of a real sensitivity to physi-
cal effort, the historical struggle of human forces with a dynamic nature.
In other words, Humboldt was not just manifesting fellow feeling in his
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
The Stimulations of Travel • 45
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
46 • michael dettelbach
function in relation to other, quite different sites for fashioning self and
nature: the laboratories and mines of Europe.
tropical physiologies
the known limits of other palms. As their name for the new genus an-
nounced, a remarkable chemical physiology went along with this remark-
able geography: most notably, the palm was covered with a thick white
waxy coating, evidence of a novel and potentially useful play of chemical
affinities. The sample retrieved by Humboldt and Bonpland was currently
undergoing analysis in the laboratories of the École Polytechnique.3 In
short, Humboldt and Bonpland chose to introduce the Institut and the
public to the fruits of their voyage through a plant that was visibly iconic
and beautiful but truly distinguished for its invisible physiology.
Mosquitoes were emblematically tropical in their own way. They ap-
pear constantly in Humboldt’s expedition journals and yield a long disser-
tation in the personal narrative (the Relation historique) of the voyage. In-
deed, in the journals, they crowd out many of the more obvious hardships
of tropical river travel. For instance, Humboldt’s report of his expedition
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
The Stimulations of Travel • 47
f i g u r e 3 . 2 Ceroxylon andicola,
from Alexander von Humboldt and
Aimé Bonpland, Essai sur la géographie
des plantes, accompagné d’un tableau
physique des pays équinoxiales (Paris,
1807) (by permission of Cambridge
University Library)
down the Orinoco and Rio Negro during April and May features its share
of crocodiles, snakes, and jaguars leaping on canoes from overhanging
trees, near-drownings, and day after day of eating nothing but manioc, ba-
nana, and occasionally ants and earth, but mosquitoes dominate.
In Guyana, where mosquitoes darken the skies, your head and hands must
always be covered, so that it’s almost impossible to write in daylight. You
Copyright © 2005. University of Chicago Press. All rights reserved.
can’t hold a pen still, so fiercely does the venom of these insects sting. All
our work had to be undertaken in an indian hut, where not one ray of sun-
light penetrated and you were forced to crawl around on your stomach.
You suffocate from the smoke, though you suffer less from the mosquitoes.
In Maipures, we and our Indians stuck ourselves in the middle of the wa-
terfall: the river is deafening, but the mist drives away the mosquitoes. In
Higuerote, people bury themselves in the sand at night, so that only the
head sticks up and the entire body is covered with 3 –4 inches of earth. I’d
have thought it a fable if I hadn’t seen it for myself.4
Likewise on the Rio Magdalena, which Humboldt traveled for more than
four months in 1801. On the Magdalena, Humboldt gathered observa-
tions he had collected on the behavior of mosquitoes from different re-
gions: their morphology, their active hours (on the Rio Magdalena you
can write, but you can’t sleep; on the Orinoco, forget about writing, but
at least you get some rest), their aggressiveness, and especially their rela-
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
48 • michael dettelbach
tive toxicity. Like crocodiles and human beings, he points out, mosquitoes
differ in ferocity, toxicity, and activity, according to their environment.
This dissertation on the relative toxicity of mosquitoes in different re-
gions led to self-experiment. Humboldt eventually began experimenting
on mosquito venom by pricking himself with thorns along his arm, rub-
bing the wounds with ground-up mosquitoes, and comparing the result-
ing wounds. This is not just an instance of self-experimentation. It is also
a reflection on and exemplification of the peculiar energies, powers, and
labors of the tropical naturalist:
These factors are manifested principally among travellers and foreigners
navigating rivers famous for their mosquitos. To the stimulation of travel is
joined that of mosquito stings. . . . The unceasing work in which they are
engaged by the productions of a nature as rich as it is beautiful, becomes a
new cause of debilitation for the naturalist. The poor food, the lack of wine
and other stimulants, the lack of muscular exercise, the stagnant and humid
air of a river valley filled with rotting vegetation . . . upset the functions of
the digestive system. The stings of mosquitos, the large quantity of venom
with which one is inoculated, the inflammation of the skin, the heating of
the blood, the resulting aggravation—all this disposes the nerves, their ir-
ritability dangerously elevated, to succumb to the miasmas.5
Thus meditations on mosquitoes as a danger to health by unbalancing ir-
ritability become an occasion to illuminate the sensitive physiology, the
peculiar animal economy of the naturalist-traveler.
In this light, Humboldt’s first reports home to his friends and family
sound distinctly medical. Attention to and reflection on tropical physiol-
ogy—the physiology of the tropics and Humboldt’s own physiology in
Copyright © 2005. University of Chicago Press. All rights reserved.
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
The Stimulations of Travel • 49
After describing the not unpleasant assault of tropical nature on his senses
and sanity, Humboldt frequently reassured his correspondents of his phys-
iological and mental resilience and intactness. For all the hardships he suf-
fered, Humboldt repeatedly affirmed his fitness for the tropics, indeed, his
tropical nature. “Despite moving constantly between humidity, heat and
mountain frost, my health and happiness have visibly increased since leav-
ing Spain. The tropics are my element [die Tropenwelt ist mein Element], and
I have never been so constantly healthy as in the last two years. I work a
great deal, sleep little. While making astronomical observations I am fre-
quently subjected to the sun, hatless, for four or five hours at a stretch.
I have sojourned in cities where the dreaded yellow fever raged, and
never, ever had so much as a headache.” 7 The key to his tropical self-
construction is that he has melted into the tropical play of chemical affini-
ties. He becomes superhuman in the tropics (as in the mines). His physi-
ology and tropical nature are one.
fixed types by “the primeval force of nature,” the increase in vital force
from the poles to the equator. Contemplating the vegetation clothing the
banks of the Rio Magdalena during his 1801 ascent of the river, he de-
scribed an aesthetic epiphany: “The splendor and fullness of the vegeta-
tion, the sheer size of the gigantic Bombax, Anacardia, and Ficus, give the
banks of the Magdalena a grand, solemn, serious character. This character
is entirely unique to equatorial regions, between 0 and 9 degrees. The
horde of intertwined plants, the huge, succulent leaves of Heliconia and
Cana which cover the ground, completely fill any empty space.” 8 Nearly
half a century later, Albert Berg repeated Humboldt’s 1801 ascent of the
Rio Magdalena and the Andes in a sort of aesthetic pilgrimage to see and
experience what Humboldt did and what he had conveyed in his writings.
(fig. 3.3 shows one study from the English translation of Berg’s Études
physiognomiques, the record of his 1848 –50 expedition). Such studies at-
tempted to capture the associations of plant forms that, according to
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
50 • michael dettelbach
f i g u r e 3 . 3 Primeval Forest
at an Elevation of about 7,000
Feet; in the Distance Mount
Tolima, from Albert Berg,
Physiognomy of Tropical Vegeta-
tion in South America (London:
Colnaghi, 1854) (by permis-
sion of the British Library)
physical law and the “co-operation of forces.” In a letter that Berg used as
a preface, Humboldt praised Berg’s depictions for their ability not only to
excite the viewer’s emotions through the grandeur and wild profusion of
their objects, but also to raise the viewer’s intellect to the concepts of phys-
ical geography, “to remind [us] of an intimate connection between the
distribution of forms and climatic influences, depending on the elevation
of the plateaux and the latitude of the locale.” To this end, each of Berg’s
lithographs was accompanied by a botanical guide supplied by Ferdinand
Klotzsch, director of the Royal Botanical Gardens in Berlin and Hum-
boldt’s close friend. In figure 3.3, which depicts a clearing beyond which
we see the volcano Tolima, the dense vegetation is characterized by spe-
cies of Heliconia, the waxy trunks of the Andean palm Ceroxylon, the
aborescent fern (Cyathea), the young fronds of Oreodoxa frigida, framed by
the larger trunk of a Urostigma, festooned with lianas and epiphytes.
The vocabulary of expansion and contraction with which Humboldt
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
The Stimulations of Travel • 51
f i g u r e 3 . 4 An Goethe, fron-
tispiece to Alexander von Humboldt,
Ideen zu einer Geographie der Pflanzen,
nebst einem Naturgemälde der Tropenlän-
der (Tübingen: J. F. Cotta, 1807),
with an engraving by Bertel Thor-
waldsen (Beinecke Rare Book and
Manuscript Library, Yale University)
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
52 • michael dettelbach
portunity to cultivate one’s spirit, and this epiphany of the human spirit
was best experienced in the tropics or, at least, through the image and idea
of the tropics conveyed through the skills of painters. This accounted for,
according to Humboldt, the “longing for the Tropics” (Sucht nach den
Tropen) that characterized civilized Europe. Humboldt began his own ex-
peditionary and spiritual autobiography in this longing for tropical na-
Copyright © 2005. University of Chicago Press. All rights reserved.
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
The Stimulations of Travel • 53
the eighteenth-century
culture of sensibility
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
54 • michael dettelbach
Humboldt took this entire culture of sensibility with him into his private
laboratories at Tegel and Bad Steben. Humboldt’s tropics were born in
these cold, drafty places, as he crafted the persona of an experimental nat-
ural philosopher. In his twenties, a decade before he set off for the Amer-
icas, Humboldt began developing techniques for displaying and experi-
mentally manipulating the “vital force” or “irritability” of organic
matter—that property at the root of sensibility. He adopted the tech-
niques of galvanic stimulation—the application of metals to muscle and
Copyright © 2005. University of Chicago Press. All rights reserved.
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
The Stimulations of Travel • 55
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
56 • michael dettelbach
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
The Stimulations of Travel • 57
f i g u r e 3 . 6 Respiratory
Apparatus and Lamp for Miners,
from Alexander von Hum-
boldt, Ueber die unterirdischen
Gasarten, und die Mitteln, ihren
Nachtheilen zu vermindern:
Ein Beytrag zur Physik der prak-
tischen Bergbaukunde (Braun-
schweig: Schulbuchhandlung,
1799) (by permission of Cam-
bridge University Library)
The sensibility of the scientific traveler was thus the same as the sensi-
bility of the director of mines. Indeed, it turns out that traversing the
Quindío Pass was much like descending a mine shaft, meteorologically,
physiologically, and economically. This equivalence is made explicit in the
description of the episode in the Vues des Cordillères, in which Humboldt
describes the Quindío path as an “open gallery,” and more completely in
the Political Essay on the Kingdom of New Spain, in which he criticized the
uneconomical expenditure of vital forces in the Mexican mines.18
This was no mere sentimental display of working-class solidarity or self-
martyrdom. Instead, the drama and landscape of the mines gave Hum-
Copyright © 2005. University of Chicago Press. All rights reserved.
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.
58 • michael dettelbach
Tropical Visions in an Age of Empire, edited by Felix Driver, and Luciana Martins, University of Chicago Press, 2005.
ProQuest Ebook Central, http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/uic/detail.action?docID=616020.
Created from uic on 2021-02-17 19:01:00.