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Part Desc I used Alternative Cost (I used)


Arduino Mega 2560 Pro (EMBED, NOT MINI) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MEGA-2560-PRO-Embed-CH340
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mega-2560-PRO-E
$8.60
GBA Cartridge Slot (32 Pin) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-Nintendo-DS-NDSL-GBA-Gam
$2.14
2x10K 0805 SMT Resistors https://www.aliexpress.co $0.59
2x SMT SPST Push Button (OR mech keyboard switch) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UXCELL-50PCS-5x
$2.55
2x THT SPDT Slide Switch https://www.aliexpress.com $1.75
RGB LED (Common Anode) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20Pcs-Multicolor-4pin-5mm-RGB-
https://www.e $0.88
OLED Screen https://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-96-inch-IIC-Serial-White-OLED-
$2.25
TP4056 Charge Module with Low Voltage Protection https://www.aliexpress.com $0.85
702540 Cell $8.00
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32878325857.html
5v 0.45A Voltage Regulator https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32786144773.html
$1.54
3.3v 0.59A Voltage Regulator https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32914681832.html
$1.47
Micro SD Module https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-Micro-SD-Storage-Expansio
$1.04
Battery gauge (volt meter panel) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32851937196.html
$0.85

2.54 MM Headers
Pins https://www.aliexpress.com $0.55
Sockets https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889916876.html
$4.32
Total $37.38

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Notes
I’d recommend the RobotDyn version. I’ve purchased four of these modules so far and two RobotDyn units were fine, one off-
Thanks to HDR’s new footprint, the hardware does not have to be modified.
Might as well keep these things handy, they are useful for a lot of DIY type things. I plan on updating the gerber to take throug
I opted for mech keys that I already had on hand. The board supports Cherry MX (or equivalent), Alps (or equivalent), or Kailh
You only need two of the 50, but I can’t find any smaller quantities for less. If you’ve already built one of Sanni’s cart reader sh
You only need one of the 50. Enjoy finding uses for the other 49. You can also omit this entirely.
Comes in blue or white. Take your pick. I like the white.
Micro USB variant is cheaper but this is your charge port and you can use Mini USB or USB C if you like. As long as you get t
Any “Game Boy Micro” sized battery should fit perfectly within the space between the actual cart interface shield and the ardu
A regulator that can handle more current would be better but this one is well within spec for Game Boy Games. SNES will req
Any three pin regulator should work, just mind that the middle pin is ground
Unlike previous readers, this hardware does not support the full size SD Module.
This is completely optional, but I like it. I also designed the PCB with this in mind so there will be an empty spot if you omit it.

You only need the sockets if you think you might want to take this apart at some point. The sockets are required if you want to
I had a ton of these laying around. With the pins, you can just break off however many you need and solder those on. You ca
You’ll need to get the 2x3, 2x16, and 2x20 option to socket the Arduino. I do not recommend socketing any other components
Prices may have changed on somethings or shipping may be more or less expensive to your area.

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two RobotDyn units were fine, one off-brand unit was fine while the other was DOA.

n on updating the gerber to take through-hole type resistors as well but I’d recommend the surface-mount ones anyway.
uivalent), Alps (or equivalent), or Kailh Choc. You can also use 6x6 buttons but you’ll have to fold the legs under the button and solder from
eady built one of Sanni’s cart reader shields, you probably already have these.

USB C if you like. As long as you get the protected version, the footprint should match.
ctual cart interface shield and the arduino. If you have something laying around, that’s even better as this is the second most expensive par
for Game Boy Games. SNES will require supplementary hardware. Any other three pin regulator should work, just mind that the PCB is ex

re will be an empty spot if you omit it.

The sockets are required if you want to do more than rip whatever shield you assemble this with.
you need and solder those on. You can also double-stack them pretty easily for things like the Arduino. The Arduino probably already came
mend socketing any other components on this model.

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ount ones anyway.


legs under the button and solder from the side. Additionally, if you use standard tact switches, you want to make sure that the buttons you

this is the second most expensive part of the build (well, third depending on the PCBs)
ould work, just mind that the PCB is expecting the middle pin to be ground.

o. The Arduino probably already came with pins though.

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ant to make sure that the buttons you use stick out a few MM since it’s a bit of a pain in the rear to use them otherwise.

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e them otherwise.

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