WOOD Magazine 271 - Noviembre 2020

TAKING MEASURE Better Homes & Gardens¨
WOOD
¨
November 2020
Vol. 37, No. 6 Issue No. 271
EDITORIAL CONTENT CHIEF DAVE CAMPBELL

DEPUTY EDITOR CRAIG RUEGSEGGER
ART DIRECTOR KARL EHLERS
SENIOR DESIGN EDITOR KEVIN BOYLE
DESIGN EDITOR JOHN OLSON
TOOLS EDITOR BOB HUNTER
DIGITAL PRODUCT MANAGER LUCAS PETERS
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT SHERYL MUNYON
CONTRIBUTING CRAFTSMEN JIM HEAVEY, BRIAN SIMMONS,
BRIAN BERGSTROM
PHOTOGRAPHERS DERA BURRESON, JASON DONNELLY, JACOB FOX
Firsts
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS VINCENT ANCONA, ZACH BROWN,
LARRY JOHNSTON, RANDY MAXEY, ROBERT WILSON
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS LORNA JOHNSON, DAVID KALLEMYN,
ROXANNE LEMOINE
PROOFREADERS SAM CADY, BABS KLEIN, IRA LACHER, THOMAS MORIARTY
to make
ADVERTISING AND MARKETING
VICE PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER SCOTT MORTIMER
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR AMY GATES
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE BRIAN KOSSACK brian.kossack@meredith.com
ONLINE MEDIA KIT WOODMAGAZINE.COM/MEDIAKIT
it last
To get the mailbox BUSINESS MANAGER DARREN TOLLEFSON CONSUMER MARKETING MANAGER ED LICHINSKY
post plans, point your PRODUCTION MANAGER SANDY WILLIAMS PREPRESS DESKTOP SPECIALIST RANDY J. MANNING
COLOR QUALITY ANALYST JOHN SANTUCCI
smartphone’s camera
at this code, or visit MEREDITH NATIONAL MEDIA GROUP
PRESIDENT, MEREDITH MAGAZINES DOUG OLSON
woodmagazine.com/
PRESIDENT, CONSUMER PRODUCTS TOM WITSCHI
mailboxpost PRESIDENT, CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER CATHERINE LEVENE
CHIEF BUSINESS & DATA OFFICER ALYSIA BORSA
CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER MICHAEL BROWNSTEIN
L
ong-time readers may recall the winter Mix from the home center or usa.sika.com.) MARKETING & INTEGRATED COMMUNICATIONS NANCY WEBER
my street-side mailbox got creamed by Although I was skeptical, I’m super- SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS
a snowplow (issue 218, May 2013). I impressed with how quickly it set up and CONSUMER REVENUE ANDY WILSON CORPORATE SALES BRIAN KIGHTLINGER DIRECT MEDIA PATTI FOLLO
RESEARCH SOLUTIONS BRITTA CLEVELAND STRATEGIC SOURCING, NEWSSTAND, PRODUCTION CHUCK HOWELL
vowed at the time that I would build a how firmly it holds even this stout project. DIGITAL SALES MARLA NEWMAN THE FOUNDRY MATT PETERSEN PRODUCT & TECHNOLOGY JUSTIN LAW
bigger, better, stronger mailbox and laugh in That’s one of the things I love about VICE PRESIDENTS
the face of city plows slinging sloppy slush. woodworking. There’s always something FINANCE CHRIS SUSIL BUSINESS PLANNING & ANALYSIS ROB SILVERSTONE CONSUMER MARKETING STEVE CROWE
BRAND LICENSING TOYE CODY AND SONDRA NEWKIRK CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS JILL DAVISON
Never happened. new to try, even if the “new” way is actually VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR STEPHEN ORR
DIRECTOR, EDITORIAL OPERATIONS & FINANCE GREG KAYKO
But this year, the old mailbox came out of an old-school way, such as timber-framing.
the winter season seriously listing to the Bigger? Better? Stronger? You betcha.
north, and it was time to finally replace it. So MEREDITH CORPORATION
I dug out issue 218 and headed for the shop. It’s that time of year PRESIDENT & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER TOM HARTY
I have to admit, it was one of the most Speaking of trying new things, this is the CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER JASON FRIEROTT
CHIEF DEVELOPMENT OFFICER JOHN ZIESER
enjoyable projects I’ve built in a long time. fourth issue of WOOD® magazine that has CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER DAPHNE KWON
Maybe it was because I had plenty of been completed while the staff work from PRESIDENT, MEREDITH LOCAL MEDIA GROUP PATRICK MCCREERY
pandemic-provided free time, so I didn’t feel home. It’s taken some amazingly creative SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES DINA NATHANSON
the need to rush through the build, which problem-solving skills to pull it off, and I CHAIRMAN STEPHEN M. LACY
VICE CHAIRMAN MELL MEREDITH FRAZIER
invariably leads to mistakes. couldn’t be more thankful for, or proud of,
Or perhaps it was because the project the WOOD team for always keeping readers’
presented some “firsts” for me: It was the interests first, no matter what. They truly For subscription help: Log in to woodmagazine.com/myaccount; e-mail
wdmcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com; or call 800-374-9663, option 1.
first time I’d tried my hand at timber-frame are the best in the business. To contact the editors: E-mail woodmail@woodmagazine.com; write to WOOD
Magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-253, Des Moines, IA 50309; or call 800-374-9663, option 2.
construction, and the project uses no glue or
To find past articles: Search for previous articles, plan corrections, and article updates
fasteners—it’s all joined with drawbore pins. online at woodmagazine.com/index.
I also made my own dowels for the first time See you in the shop! To order past articles and issues: For articles, search woodstore.net. For issues,
visit woodmagazine.com/backissues.
(from walnut, to contrast with the pressure- For syndication requests or international licensing requests, or reprint and
treated lumber). reuse permission, email syndication@meredith.com.
Dave Campbell
It was also the first time I tried two-part dave.campbell@meredith.com
Our subscriber list is occasionally made available to carefully selected firms whose products may
be of interest to you. If you prefer not to receive information from these companies by mail or by
expanding foam, instead of concrete, for set- Facebook and Twitter: @WOODeditor
phone, please let us know. Send your request along with your mailing label to Magazine Customer
Service, PO Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508.
ting a post. (I used Sika PostFix Fence Post Instagram: @wood_editor © Copyright Meredith Corporation 2020. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
Meredith Corporation allows the purchaser of this magazine to
photocopy the included patterns solely for personal use. Any
woodmagazine.com 1 other reproduction of these patterns is strictly prohibited.
IN THIS ISSUE OF WOOD
¨
NOV EMBER 2020 • IS SUE 271

PLANS
26 Pendulum Wall Clock
The blacked-out interior makes the
wood bob appear to float gracefully.
32 Mix-and-match Bath Vanity
Configure these classic cabinets to
suit your space and storage needs.
40 Table-tennis Table
Family game night just got gorgeous with
this regulation-size entertainment system.
56 Stylish Stool
Tough enough for the shop, yet beautiful
enough for the breakfast bar.
65 Shop Project: Lathe Tool Holder
The articulated arm keeps tools within
easy reach when you need them.
32
70 Curved-corbel Wall Shelves
The graceful brackets display your skills.
The shelves do likewise for your stuff.
TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

44 Press Away Ugly Edges
Use an old iron and heat-sensitive veneer
to make plywood pretty.
48 How to Buy an Air Compressor
Whether mini- or monster-size, every
shop needs one. Here’s what to look for.
52 Scrollsawing Tips and Tricks
Clean up your curve-cutting act with help
from pro scrollsawyer Jenny Boles.
62 Brush with Greatness
A great finish starts with the right brush.
Learn which is best for the job.
68 Staining Secrets to Beat Blotch
Jim Heavey demonstrates three ways to
get more consistent color.
74 Tools & Materials
Top scrollsaws, women’s workwear, and
more.
DEPARTMENTS
1 Taking Measure
Firsts to make it last.
4 Wood-Wide Web
A “Who’s Who” of hues.
8 Sounding Board
Your voice, your projects, your shop.
20 Ask WOOD
Weighing-in on drawer slides.
22 Shop Tips
Totally tubular dustbin, and more.
80 What’s Ahead
A sneak peek at your next WOOD.
2 WOOD magazine November 2020

62
70
40
56
52
68
woodmagazine.com 3
WOOD-WIDE WEB
WOODMAGA ZINE.COM
Used as an accent, the bright

red-orange color of padauk
can be a double-edged
sword when it bleeds onto Call it bois d’arc (bow wood), hedge,
lighter neighboring woods. or Osage orange, this durable wood
Dense and hard, bloodwood Learn how to prevent it. was indispensable to the indigenous
shares its vibrant red hue with woodmagazine.com/ people of the plains and the settlers they
several other crimson woods. padauk encountered.
Learn about them all. woodmagazine.com/osageorange
woodmagazine.com/
bloodwood
Genuine mahogany has
been harvested nearly to
the point of endangerment,
but several species have
stepped up as substitutes.
woodmagazine.com/mahogany
The whitest known wood, holly is prized as
WHO’S
an inlay and an ethical substitute for ivory.
woodmagazine.com/holly
WHO OF
HUES
Walnut seems to effortlessly produce highly African ebony (woodmagazine.com/
figured lumber. Combine that with its rich color ebony) has been a rare treasure since
and easy workability, and you get a species Old Testament times (Ezekiel 27:15). If
that is a staple in many woodshops. you can’t afford a price tag of biblical
woodmagazine.com/walnut proportions, try these ebonizing
techniques:
woodmagazine.com/ebonize
Aromatic eastern red cedar has a near-

mythical reputation for deterring insect
infestations. Perhaps too mythical.
woodmagazine.com/aromaticcedar Blueheart would be an interesting
species if it existed. But this is
Purpleheart can confound with its color changes. dyed pine. Learn how easy it is to
But can its vibrant color be preserved? transform wood into any color of
woodmagazine.com/purpleheart the rainbow.
woodmagazine.com/blueheart

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SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR VOICE
Rip, rotate,
reassemble, repeat
The Multi-grain Table in issue 256 (October 2018)
reminded me of these cutting boards I’ve been again randomly. I do that a few more times, then
making for about 12 years. This one measures crosscut them and assemble them into strips that
about 9×13" and contains more than 20 species I glue together to make an end-grain cutting
of wood, including North American hardwoods, board, like this one. I say “like this one,” because
such as oak, walnut, and hickory, as well as more no two are alike, and you won’t find a repeating
exotic woods, such as Caribbean cherry, pattern in any individual board. Some of the
Honduran rosewood, Brazilian blackheart, and individual pieces are as small as 1∕32".
goncolo alves. I’ve made more than a hundred of these and
The cutting boards started as a way for me to given them all away. It’s just a fun way to spend
use up smaller scraps of wood—I glue them up a day in the shop.
randomly into larger blocks that I rip square, then —Jerry Burkhart
re-rip at a 45° bevel, then glue back together, Port Orange, Fla.
Staples 21 x 40" 10-oz

duck canvas,
No sitting duck folded into
I am planning to build the Modern Armchair and What’s missing, Bruce, is the double layer double layer
Footstool from issue 269 (September 2020), but I of 10-ounce duck-canvas support that K
can’t see any support for the seat cushion. Should should have been shown in the Exploded J
there be a plywood top panel similar to the one View drawing. Step 9 on page 60 explains
on the footstool (part S)? What am I missing? the installation, but erroneously says to
—Bruce Van Peursem install it on the backrest as well. We
North Augusta, S.C. apologize for the confusion.
H I
Connect with us
CNC is all right with me facebook.com/
woodmagazine
twitter.com/
WOOD_magazine
Ever since I purchased my CNC machine, I have pinterest.com/ instagram.com/
been looking for a magazine that has CNC woodmagazine woodmagazine
projects, such as the Two-faced Trivet in issue 269
E-mail woodmail@woodmagazine.com; or write to
(September 2020). The article not only exposed
WOOD magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-253, Des Moines, IA
me to several previously unexplored functions of
50309; or call 800-374-9663, option 2.
my software, but also resulted in a fun and
challenging project, of which I have made several. WOOD® magazine never uses outside parties to
I look forward to more CNC-related articles in solicit subscription renewals. The safest, easiest way
to renew your subscription is with a credit card
upcoming issues. Thanks! online at woodmagazine.com/myaccount. If you
—Rick Kirschner, Sr. have questions about a renewal offer you’ve
Richardson, Texas received, please call our customer service line at
800-374-9663, and select option 1.
We’re happy to help.
8 continued on page 10 WOOD magazine November 2020

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SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR VOICE
Shuffling off this mortal coil

My dad and I built this Tabletop Shuffleboard
game from issue 268 (July 2020) as a birthday
present for my younger brother. We made the
playing surface out of hard maple, with black-
Working from home—with style walnut inlays; the base is red-oak plywood, and
My wife, Holly, is an administrator for a home So, I modified your Floating-top Hall Table the cradle is cherry, both finished with Sedona
health/hospice company and had been wanting a plans from issue 267 (May 2020) and got the job Red stain. Unfortunately, this was the last project
desk at home with a small footprint. But when done. Although though there are no drawers for we built together, as Dad passed away
the COVID pandemic hit, she started to work storage, it’s a nice workstation for a laptop, and I unexpectedly recently. I think my brother will be
from home, and the “want” suddenly became an like its modern, artsy look. Thanks. happy to have the project that Dad worked on.
intense “need.” —Ken MacDonald —T.J. Stecker
Southern Pines, N.C. Alexandria, Va.
A berry nice project mashup

I combined two projects from issue 264
(November 2019), using Glen Huey’s inlaid line-
and-berry technique from the Tea Tray to
embellish the face of the Wood-hinged Box.
Instead of wood inlay, though, I filled the routed
grooves with spackle, which contrasts well with
the walnut and was much easier to do. Thanks
for the great projects!
—Rodney Williams
Plain City, Ohio

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SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR PROJECTS
With no place to put a television in their cabin, Jim and Tina Appleby, of Bigfork, Minn., designed and built this coffee table that conceals a 32" flat-screen TV and a sound bar. For even more space
savings, the drop leaf doubles as their dining table, so they can watch while they eat.
Mark Harriman, of
Germantown, Tenn.,
salvaged more than
thirty 16' 2×6 southern
yellow pine boards from
a deck demolition site
and repurposed them
into this bedroom suite,
as well as an outdoor
dining table. The
headboard features
book-matched boards
joined in tongue-and-
groove fashion.
For more than 20 years, Henry Setzekorn, of Nashville, Ill.,

has been making model trucks and tractors, including this
maple-and-walnut wheel-lift tow truck, working only from
This cedar potting bench, designed and built by Nick Ferry, of photos of the real thing.
Green Bay, Wis., includes a catch bin beneath the gridded
worksurface to collect spilled soil. Nick mitered the stretchers
and spreaders and dadoed them into the legs for end-grain-
free appearance.

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SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR PROJECTS
Gary Dean, of Prince George, B.C., made these four matching end tables from
the mountain-ash tree that shaded his front yard for more than 30 years. The
center panel of each tabletop was slabbed from a single spruce burl.
With a jaw spread of 12" and a total length of 44", this wood bear trap,
crafted by Tony Eliasen, of Bentonville, Ark., drew blood the first time he
tested it. Made entirely of beech, Tony stained it to look old and rusted.
When Tim Clark, of West Liberty, Iowa,

stumbled upon a slab of quartersawn
white oak in the roughsawn bin at his
local home center, he snapped it up
and turned it into this Greene-and-
Greene-inspired entry table.
To enclose the cremains of

his beloved bullmastiff,
Duke, Jeff Copeland, of
Warner Robins, Ga., made
this hardwood urn based on
the Memorial Box plans in
issue 239 (May 2016). The
woods are reclaimed red
oak and black walnut.
Send us a photo of your work

Want to see your work showcased in WOOD¨magazine? Send a high-resolution
digital photo of your completed project to woodmail@woodmagazine.com.

SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR SHOP
More than a
Mile-High Workshop
Windows at opposite ends of the shop provide ample
natural lighting for Buck’s spacious shop. The smaller
windows open for ventilation in the summertime.
A
woodworker’s paradise sits at 8,000'
elevation in the Rocky Mountains.
Indeed, when you walk into Buck
Olmsted’s shop of more than 500 square
feet, it’s hard to take it all in. Every nook and
cranny has been meticulously organized
and crammed full.
A retired architect and project manager,
Buck had the basic structure built by some
of his employees who wanted to earn some
extra income. Buck finished it out himself,
including the electrical and plumbing work.
He installed 100-amp service with 110-volt
circuits but as he acquired newer tools, he
realized that some 220-volt circuits should
be added. That’s a future upgrade, he says.
Shop heat comes from a free, used furnace
a contractor friend removed from an apart-
ment he was servicing. Buck ran all of the
ductwork, including runs to the garage
SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR SHOP
The dust collector, separator, and air compressor (not shown) sit in an area walled
off from the shop to reduce noise.
A shop-made cabinet supports a cast-iron router table. A removable top outfitted

with Buck’s scrollsaw drops over the router table (inset).
below for when he works on large projects in

that space. At this altitude, cooling simply
means opening the windows at each end of
the shop and turning on a fan.
Buck installed a 55-gallon drum upstream
from his Reliant dust collector to convert it
to a two-stage unit, which is connected to all
woodmagazine.com continued on page 19 17
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SOUNDING BOARD
YOUR SHOP
CASTLE 110
LOW ANGLE
POCKET CUTTER
Having tired of dust-covered tools, Buck made

drawers and enclosed storage for most of his hand
tools and portable tools.
The CASTLE 110 is a great way to

cut the Castle Low Angle Professional
Pocket in your shop or on the go.
Buck Olmsted designed the two-story building with a
two-car garage below his shop. A grade-level entrance FEATURES:
at the back provides shop access. • 3 Degree Pocket minimizes joint shift
• Quick Clamp firmly secures workpiece
of the larger tools. His two drill presses and
mitersaw each have their own dedicated • Stronger joints and faster assembly
shop vacuum. Each drill-press vacuum • Portable and adjustable
turns on and off with the tool. Two other • Dust extraction port
shop vacuums serve for general cleanup. • Factory assembled and adjusted,
Buck made smart use of all of his wall no additional setup required
space, and tucked drawers under every tool
and worksurface he could. He gives new • Designed and assembled in the USA
meaning to the old adage, “A place for every- from US and global components
thing and everything in its place.”
INCLUDES:
• 450w router, now with an 8mm collet
for extra durability
• Extra-long pilot hole bit
• Solid carbide pocket cutting bit
• Collet wrenches
• Table Overlay Plate for quickly
machining thinner stock with no
Buck Olmsted says he’s learned a lot from reading adjustment
WOOD¨ magazine. He enjoys the challenge of designing
something, figuring out how to build it, and then
building it.
Show us your shop
Send high-resolution digital photos of your shop to
woodmail@woodmagazine.com THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE
and we may showcase it in the magazine!
WWW.CASTLEUSA.COM
19
woodmagazine.com
1.800.282.8338
ASK WOOD
YOUR QUESTIONS
Q
Making sense of drawer slide weight ratings. (If the retailer where you
weight ratings purchase your slides doesn’t have this infor-
I need to order some drawer slides for a shop mation, contact the manufacturer or check
cabinet I’m building. There’s a pretty big price their website.) These ratings indicate how
difference between the various types, and much weight a pair of slides can safely
what’s the deal with weight ratings? How do I support through a given number of open-
determine which ones to use? and-close cycles of the drawer (usually
50,000–75,000 cycles). In other words, a pair
A
—Frank Headley, Millville, N.J.
of drawer slides with a rating of 75 lbs. is able
Choosing the right hardware is one of the to carry that much weight throughout its
most important parts of any project, Frank, intended life span without failing.
especially when you’re talking about load- If you’re unsure about which general clas-
bearing hardware, such as hinges or drawer sification of drawer slide to use on your
slides. Most manufacturers classify their project, go by the actual weight rating. Keep
drawer slides as light-, medium-, or heavy- a couple of things in mind as you plan your
duty. These serve as general guidelines to project, though. First, include the weight of
help you select the slides that best match the the drawer, as well as the contents, when
intended use. For example, you’ll often find calculating the weight load. And second,
light-duty slides on drawers in bathroom manufacturers base the load ratings on the
vanities, while kitchen cabinets may use assumption that the slides are securely
light-duty or medium-duty slides, depend- attached to a well-constructed drawer and
ing on the size and intended purpose of the cabinet. Particleboard and MDF don’t hold
drawer. For most of the shop projects fea- screws very well, so stick with plywood or Have a question?
tured in WOOD®, we use heavy-duty slides. solid wood for best results. If you follow Drop us an e-mail.
In addition to these general classifica- these guidelines, your drawers should oper- askwood@
tions, manufacturers also provide specific ate trouble-free for years. woodmagazine.com
Use epoxy-coated slides with drawers that won’t be carrying a heavy Ball-bearing slides withstand greater weight loads and operate
weight load or will see limited use. smoother over a longer period.
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SHOP TIPS
WORK FASTER, SMARTER, SAFER
Create totally tubular custom

collection bins for mini-cyclones TOP
I use a mini-cyclone separator in-line with my shop vacuum for dust
collection on some of my tools. But some tools generate so many SHOP
chips that frequently emptying the 5-gallon bucket I was using to
capture them became a chore. Then I realized I could make a
TIP Mini-cyclone
separator
“bucket” any size I wanted using the tube forms used for pouring
concrete deck piers. They come in 8", 10", and 12" diameters from the
home center and can be cut to any length.
I made a removable-top adapter plate for attaching the mini-
cyclone. Likewise, I closed the bottom with a plywood disc, and
made a wide-stance mobile base for it, fastening it to the tube with a
few screws. To empty the container, I simply remove the top, wheel
it to the trash receptacle, and tip it over.
—Don Loeffler, Plymouth, Mich.
Learn more about

cyclone separators at
woodmagazine.com/
separators
For sending this issue’s Top Shop Tip, Don receives an

Infinity Tools Portable Router Table System worth $350.
Tips earn up
to $150.
If your tip is the best of the issue,
it wins Top Shop Tip honors,
and you receive a tool prize worth
at least $300.
Send your tip, photos or drawings,
and contact info to
shoptips@woodmagazine.com
Because we try to publish original tips,
please send yours only to WOOD magazine.
®

SHOP TIPS
Scrap block twice as wide as rise

of desired arc minus twice the
thickness of the strips
Flex and hold when drawing curves

When laying out a curve on a workpiece, we
usually know its approximate distance board or hardwood. Place the strips face-to-
between the endpoints of the arc and its rise, face and join both ends with a strong tape.
or height. But trying to figure out how to Between the strips, insert a thin spacer block.
effectively clamp a thin, flexible strip to (See the drawing above for sizing the width of
form the curve can be tricky. the spacer.) This creates an adjustable fairing
To make this process easier to manage, I strip that stands up on its own, has a conve-
make a two-part fairing strip to use for tracing nient handle, and stores flat.
the curve. Start with two thin strips of hard- —Keith Kroma, Menomonie, Wis.
Play the slots for easy

auxiliary table assembly
To make it easier to mount and remove the
auxiliary table on my drill press, I replaced the
usual flat washers with slotted washers typi-
cally used for installing faucets on sinks.
Simply thread the star knob onto the bolt and
leave a gap to slide in the washer, then tighten
it all up.
—Father Chrysanthos, Etna, Calif.
woodmagazine.com 23
SHOP TIPS
Blocks-and-knots
clamping
Here’s a clamp-free way to assemble
frames that I learned from the Seabees
before I retired from the U.S. Navy.
First, dry-assemble the frame and
tie a strong string tightly around it.
Then remove the string, disassemble
the frame, and apply glue to the
miters. Reassemble the frame, fitting
the loop of string around it. Insert two
small blocks of wood between the
string and frame at the middle of each
side. Then slowly slide the blocks to
the corners. This applies even clamp-
ing pressure across the miters.
—Capt. Doug Dariano (retired)
Perrysburg, Ohio
Finishing aid gets to the point(s)

When I replaced the plastic chair mat in my home office, I realized it would be a great help for
finishing projects. Turned upside down, the little nibs on the bottom lift the project high
enough to prevent finish from pooling at the edges. And, because the nibs are located every
square inch, I can set a project of any size or shape anywhere on the mat. Plus, it protects my
bench from overspray and drips, and it easily stores out of the way next to my sheet-good scraps.
—Dave Campbell, WOOD® magazine

SHOP TIPS
Slicker brush
Brush up on sander grooming

After using a buffing pad on my orbital sander, stray fibers clogged the
hooks of the pad to the point where it wouldn’t hold a sanding disc. To
clean the pad, I used a small slicker brush, the kind normally intended
for grooming dogs. It worked amazingly well. Since then, I keep the
brush stored with my orbital sander. You can buy one of these brushes
at a pet store for just a few dollars.
Magnetic LED
flashlight
Brighten dark areas with portable lighting

While fine-tuning the depth of some grooves I was routing recently,
dusk fell, and the lighting in that area of my shop made this a chal-
lenging task.
After a quick scan of my shop, I spotted a magnetic LED mini-
flashlight from a local tool store. I gently secured a clamp to the
router and stuck the light to its steel bar to finish the job.
woodmagazine.com 25
Wall
Clock
An updated look for a timeless classic
F
rom across the room, the simple lines
of this clock allow your eye to linger on
the spalted grain. When you get up for
a closer look, the delicate banding outlining
the case, combined with perfectly executed
miter joints, suggests that this is a time-
consuming and exacting project. In reality,
it’s actually quite simple. The secret is gluing
oversize bands to over-thickness panels and
then planing and trimming the panel
assemblies to size. To obtain crisp, gap-free
miters, we formed them on a router table
using a chamfer bit.
Approximate
D I M E N S I O N S :
71∕8" W × 21∕2" D × 16¼" H
materials cost:
$75
1
AA battery
required
(battery not
included)

EXPLODED VIEW
Prepare the panels

From a 3∕8×67∕8×23" board (we used Cut four 3∕8×67∕8×3∕8" end trim (C) blanks Note: To accommo-
1 spalted maple), cut blanks for the top
panel (A), front panel (B), and bottom panel
2 as well as two 3∕8×3∕8×23" edge trim (D)
blanks [Drawing 1]. We used cherry, but you
date wood movement
and minimize tear-out
(A) in sequence [Drawing 1, Materials List]. Label can use any contrasting hardwood. when planing, cut the
the parts to keep the grain pattern in order. end trim blanks so the
grain runs along the
short dimension.
1 PANEL ASSEMBLIES
woodmagazine.com 27
C
A
B
A
Keeping the part edges flush, sandwich an end trim (C) blank between the top B
panel (A) and front panel (B) blanks. Then add another end trim blank and the The edge trim (D) blanks start off extra long. Trim them to length later, after
bottom panel (A) blank to the opposite end. planing the assembly to thickness.
3 Glue up the top/front/bottom blank

assembly [Photo A]. With the glue dry, glue
the remaining end trim blanks to the ends of
the top and bottom panels.
4 Glue the edge trim (D) blanks to the

edges of the panel assembly [Photo B]. Set
the assembly aside.
5 Cut two 3∕8×21∕4×16" side panel (E) blanks,

four 3∕8×21∕4×3∕8" end trim (F) blanks, and
four 3∕8×3∕8×18" edge trim (G) blanks. Glue
up the side blanks [Photo C].
Tip! When planing the
panel assemblies to 6 Plane all three panel assemblies to fin-
ished thickness.
final thickness, flip the
assemblies between
passes to ensure both
7 Crosscut the ends and rip the long edges
of all three assemblies, leaving 1/8"-wide
strips of cherry trim all around.
C
8
Make the side panel blanks in a similar fashion to the top/front/bottom blank.
faces are flat and Separate the top and bottom panels from Glue on the end trim blanks first, then add the edge trim blanks.
parallel. the front panel by cutting through the
center of the trim blanks, leaving 1/8" of trim panels [Exploded View, Photo D]. Dry-assemble Note: To minimize
on each side of the cut. the case to check the fit of the joints [Photo E]. tear-out, rout the end
Rout the joints 2 Cut the rectangular opening in the case

front using a router and template [Drawing
grain first and use a
backer block to support
1 Using a 45° chamfer bit at the router

table, miter the ends and edges of the
2, Skill Builder]. Save the cutout for the pendu-
lum bob (L).
the trailing edge as the
router bit exits the cut.
Backer block
45˚chamfer bit A
D E
Position the router fence so the chamfer bit cuts a full miter on the end of the Stretch blue painter's tape over the edges of the case front and sides to act as
workpiece, leaving a knifelike edge. clamps while checking the fit of the rest of the case assembly.
SKILL BUILDER
Plunge your way to perfect field cuts pair of 3∕4"-thick cleats glued to the template edges center it on the front
A compact plunge router, guide bushing, and spiral upcut bit prove ideal panel. Rout the opening using a 1∕8" spiral upcut bit and a 3∕8" guide
for creating the openings in the front of the clock case. Using a template bushing [Photo F].
and a circle jig yields perfect results. To create the round opening for the clock dial, use the same spiral
To rout the rectangular opening in the front panel, make a template upcut bit, but this time without the bushing. Make a circle jig [Drawing 4]
[Drawing 3] by gluing up four strips of 1∕2"-thick stock. (The interior from a piece of 1∕2" plywood, drilling pivot holes for routing the opening
dimensions of the template accommodate the guide-bushing offset.) A as well as the clock dial insert [Photos G and H].
Double-faced
tape
Pivot pin
B Spoil
board
Spoil B C D
board
Double-faced
Template tape
F G H
Attach the case front to a spoil board and the With the case front still adhered to the spoil board, After routing the opening, shift the jig to the other
template to the case front with double-faced tape. drill a hole for a pivot pin and rout the opening for pivot-pin hole and rout the clock dial insert.
Rout the rectangular opening. the clock dial.
2 FRONT ASSEMBLY
I
Due to the delicate nature of the case parts, use tape instead of clamps to hold
everything together when gluing the case.
3 Using a shop-made circle-cutting jig,

rout the opening in the case front for the
clock face [Drawing 2, Skill Builder]. Save the
4 Glue the front, top, bottom and side pan-
els to create the clock case [Photo I].
cutout piece for use as the clock face (H).

woodmagazine.com 29
Make the interior case parts
Cut a 1∕4×65∕8×7" blank for the case divid-
1 ers (I). To form the cutout in the center
divider [Drawing 5], crosscut a 3∕4"-long strip
from the end of the blank, followed by a
1"-long strip. Rip two 2"-wide pieces from
the 1" strip and glue the components back
together [Photo J]. After the glue dries, cut the
dividers (I) from the blank [Exploded View].
2 Glue the dividers in place inside the clock

case [Exploded View]. Cut the back (J) and
set it aside.
3 Cut and bevel the hanging cleats (K).

Glue the upper cleat to the upper divider
(I). Set the other cleat aside for now. You will
use it later to hang the clock on the wall.
Apply finish and install the
clock movement
Note: The hard-
ware kit for the clock
contains a quartz
1 Bandsaw and sand a 2" disc for the pen-
dulum bob (L) from the rectangular
piece you cut out of the case front.
J
After cutting apart the blank to create an opening for the pendulum rod, glue
the pieces back together.
pendulum clock move-
ment, hands, and a
dial. We painted the
2 Finish-sand the outside of the case, clock
dial insert, and pendulum bob. Apply a
finish to these parts. (We used satin spray
the hand retaining nut, and pendulum rod.
With the paint dry, glue the back in place.
brass pendulum rod
and the hand retaining
lacquer.) With the finish dry, glue the insert
(H) to the clock dial supplied with the clock 4 Glue the clock dial to the case and mount
the clock movement and hands.
nut black. movement kit.
3 Paint black (flat) the lower interior of the 5 Screw the wall cleat to the wall, checking
for level, and hang the clock.
clock case, the inside face of the back,
6 Epoxy the wood pendulum bob (L) to the
painted pendulum rod. (Discard the bob
that comes with the clock kit.) Drive a #6×1∕4"
5 CENTER CASE DIVIDER panhead screw through the back of the rod
into the bob to secure it. Hook the pendu- Produced by Vincent Ancona
65/8"
lum onto the clock movement and set the with John Olson
Project design: John Olson
¾" hands to the correct time. Regardless of the Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine,
2" I hour, you’ve earned a break. Lorna Johnson
1"
2" 25/8" ¼"

Materials List FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Qty.
A* top/bottom panels 1∕4" 67∕8" 21∕4" M 2
B* front panel 1∕4" 67∕8" 16" M 1
C* frt/top/bott end trim 1∕4" 67∕8" 1∕ 8" C 6
Cutting Diagram D* frt/top/bott edge trim 1∕4" 1∕ 8" 23" C 2
E* side panels 1∕4" 21∕4" 16" M 2
H F* side panel end trim 1∕4" 21∕4" 1∕ 8" C 4
A
A B E G* side panel edge trim 1∕4" 1∕ 8" 161∕4" C 4
H* clock dial insert 1∕4" 37∕8" dia. M 1
3/8 x 7¼ x 48" Maple
I* case dividers 1∕4" 65∕8" 2" M 3
F G J back 1∕4" 65∕8" 93∕8" M 1

C D 1∕4" 3∕4"
K hanging cleats 65∕8" M 2
L pendulum bob 1∕4" 2" dia. M 1
3/8 x 7¼ x 36" Cherry
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
L Materials key: M–maple, C–cherry.
K Supplies: #6×1∕4" panhead screw, #8×2" flathead screws.
I J Bits: 45° chamfer and 1∕8" spiral upcut router bits.
Source: Clock kit (quartz pendulum movement, dial, and hands),
¼ x 7¼ x 24" Maple no. RS-01277, $27.90, 888-636-4478, woodstore.net/271clock.
WOODWORKING
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Bathroom Build-out
Elegant style and storage you can
custom-fit to your space
Approximate
721∕4" W × 25" D × 81" H
materials cost:
$950
Cabinets as
shown, with
hardware.
4
Cabinet types
allow custom
configuration

M
ore than just a vanity, this adapt-
able bathroom suite offers the look
of luxury along with abundant
drawer and shelf space. To alleviate a lot of
sanding and finishing, construct the cabi-
nets using plywood prefinished with UV
coating on one side.
You can arrange the cabinets to suit var-
ied layouts [Drawings, below]. So before you
start building, measure your
bathroom and determine a
component configuration KK
that best meets your needs.
Then, build the pieces for
your custom layout.
CABINET CONFIGURATION OPTIONS
woodmagazine.com 33
C , N,V
B , M, U
A
Glue the bottom into the back dado, reinforcing the
joint with 1" narrow-crown staples or brads. A pencil
guideline on the back shows fastener placement.
Note: Using plywood Craft the cabinets first the tower sides (A). Match the rabbets and Cut rabbets of any
1
prefinished on one side, Cut to size parts for the tower cabinet dadoes to the thickness of your plywood. width on your tablesaw.
3
the good face goes to the (A–C), base cabinets (L–O), and wide Glue together the backs and bottoms woodmagazine.com/
cabinet interior. base cabinet (U–W) [Materials List]. (B/C, M/N, U/V) [Photo A]. rabbets
2 4
Note: The regular Dado the sides and backs (A, B, L, M, U) Apply glue to the bottom dado and back
base cabinets and the [Drawings 1, 2, 3]. Rabbet the back edge of rabbet of each side and join it to the cor-
wide base cabinet have each side (A, L), and drill shelf-pin holes in responding back/bottom assembly [Photo B].
identical-size sides (L).

L
M N O,W
L L
B C
Align the top and bottom corners as you glue and staple or nail one side in Place the front stretcher 1∕4" back from the edge to allow the grooved face-
place. Seat the cabinet bottom (C, N, or V) firmly in the side dado. frame stiles to slide onto the cabinet front edges.
5 Glue the top and bottom (C) into the

dadoes in the tower carcase (A/B/C) and
the back stretchers (O, W) into the top
5 Cut the crown base and crown parts
(G–J) each about 1" longer than listed.
Miter-cut the base front (G) and sides (H),
dadoes in the L/M/N and L/U/V assemblies. finish-sand them, and glue them to the top
Glue the remaining side to each carcase, and of the tower cabinet [Drawings 4, 4a].
install the front stretchers [Photo C].
Fit the face frames and crown

6 Bevel-rip the crown front (I) and sides (J)
to the profile shown [Drawing 4a]. Miter-
cut the crown front on both ends to length
See how to miter-cut
crown moldings.
woodmagazine.com/
1 Cut the face-frame stiles and rails (D, E,

P, Q, R, X) to size, except make the leg
stiles (P), which extend to the floor, 1∕2" lon-
and the sides on one end. Assemble the
crown with glue and brads or pins. When
dry, finish-sand the crown face and glue it to
crownmiters
ger than listed. You’ll trim them to length the base. Apply finish after the glue dries.
Note: Match the stile

grooves to the thickness
when you install and level the cabinets.
2 Groove the stiles (D, P, Q) [Drawing 1a],

and round over the inside top edge of
7 Cut the tower finish panels (K) to the
length listed and 1∕2" wider, and the base
finish panel (S) 1∕2" both wider and longer
of the plywood sides. rails E and X [Drawings 1, 3]. than listed.
3 Assemble the face frames with pocket

screws [Drawings 1—3]. Finish-sand, stain
and finish as desired, and glue to the carcases.
8 Bandsaw the feet (T) [Drawing 2a] from
stock 1 ∕2" wider than listed. Finish-sand
parts K, S, and T, apply finish, and set aside.
4 Cut to size the drawer-slide support

blocking (F, Y), and glue the pieces inside
the cabinets [Drawings 1—3].
woodmagazine.com 35
Build the doors
Note: We made the
frame-and-panel
drawer fronts along
1 Cut to size parts for the doors (Z–EE)
[Drawing 5] and the drawer false fronts
(FF–HH) [Drawing 6]. Center a groove on one
with the doors edge of each stile and rail to match the
because they utilize thickness of the plywood panels.
the same setups.
2 Rabbet the ends of the rails (AA, DD,
GG) to make tenons to fit the stile
grooves. Glue the stiles and rails around the
Learn how to panels. (Gluing the panels into the frames
install Euro hinges. strengthens the doors and precludes rattles.)
woodmagazine.com/
eurohinges
Note: You can rout
3 Drill hinge-cup holes on the inside of the
hinge-side stile on the tower door and
only two base doors (CC–EE) [Drawing 5,
the cup holes using Exploded View]. Finish-sand the doors and
a simple template drawer fronts, install hinges on the doors,
[Sources]. and set them aside.
Add the shelves and drawers

1 Cut to size the drawer and tray parts
II–XX [Drawings 6, 7, 8]. Set the false fronts
(KK) aside.
2 Dado the sides (II, MM, NN, VV) and

opposite faces on sides QQ. Rabbet the
ends of the fronts and backs (JJ, OO, RR, SS,
WW) to form tenons that fit the side dadoes
Tip! Make a saddle [Drawings 7a, 7b].
that rides your tablesaw
fence to easily and
safely dado the ends of
3 Cut each end of the wide drawer front
and tray front (TT, XX) for the modified
lock-rabbet joinery [Drawing 8a].
the fronts (TT, XX).
woodmagazine.com/ 4 Groove the sides, backs, and fronts for
the drawer bottoms. Extend the grooves
the backs and drill holes for the drawer
slides [Drawing 7b].
Note: Glue the bot-
toms into the drawers
saddle across the front ends of QQ [Drawing 8]. Notch
5 Glue together the drawers. When assem-
bling the wide base drawer, start with the
back clearance notch [Drawing 8, Photos D, E].
for strength. The
plywood does not move
with humidity.

Scrapwood
spacer
QQ Scrapwood
spacer
RR
QQ
SS
QQ
SS
UU MM
D E
A scrapwood spacer keeps the SS/QQ assembly square for clamping [Photo D]. Measure the diagonals to verify square. When dry, leave the spacer in place as you
add the bottom (UU), backs (RR), sides (MM), and front (TT) to complete the drawer [Photo E]. Check for square at all joints as you glue the drawer together.
woodmagazine.com 37
Shims
¾" (also from end) L
EEE
EEE
Shims EEE
DDD
F G
Shim the base to level it side-to-side and front to back. Then, drive screws Align the face frames flush from one cabinet to the next, starting from the
through the flat stretchers (EEE) into the floor. outside. Clamp the cabinets together and drive screws from the least-visible side.
8 Slide the drawers into the cabinets and

apply double-faced tape to the fronts.
Position the false fronts (FF–HH, KK) on
them and a base door (CC–EE) on the pull-
out. Press the fronts and door against the
tape, drill screw holes from inside the draw-
ers, and install the fronts. Mark the drawer
positions, remove them, and set them aside.
9 Cut the movable shelves (BBB) and edges

(CCC) to size. Glue the edges to the shelves
[Exploded View], finish-sand, and apply finish.
Install the cabinets

Allow 3∕4" between the back and end of the
base and the walls, to account for a possibly
nonsquare corner. For a custom configura-
tion, place the cabinets side by side and
measure them to determine the length of the
base front and back (DDD). The base end Get tips for seamless
stretcher (EEE) must sit flush with the cabi- cabinet installation.
net side (L), or both sides, if the cabinets are woodmagazine.com/
not placed in a corner. built-ins-that-blend-in
1 Prepare base parts DDD and EEE and

assemble the base [Exploded View]. Attach it
to the floor [Photo F].
2 Scribe the toekick (FFF) to the wall and

floor, flush with the base front (DDD) on
top and with EEE at the outside end. Finish-
6 Cut to size the vertical supports (YY) and

the drawer insert parts (ZZ–AAA). Cut
the holes in AAA [Drawing 9]. Finish-sand the
sand, apply a finish, and glue to the base.
3 Set the cabinets in place temporarily.

Check the length of the leg stiles (P) and Tip! Slide the wide
drawers and the insert parts. Screw and glue feet (T), and trim as necessary. Screw the cabinet to each end of
the insert into a deep drawer (MM/OO/PP) base cabinets together through the face the base in turn.
and finish the drawers. Join the drawer with frames [Photo G]. Measure from the top of
the insert to a shallow drawer (JJ/NN/PP)
with the vertical supports (YY). 4 Insert shims behind the cabinets to
plumb them. Drive screws through the
its face frame to the
floor for the length of P.
Watch a video about
installing drawer slides.
woodmagazine.com/
7 Install the drawer slides and mounting
brackets in the cabinets [Exploded View],
following the manufacturer’s instructions.
backs into wall studs, and screw the bottoms
to the base. Scribe and fit the finish panel
(S), then glue and pin it to the cabinet side
Position it, and mark
plumbing-hole locations
on the back (U).
installslides Attach the drawer clips. and base.
5 Glue together two layers of MDF for the
countertop core (GGG), and apply plastic
laminate to the edges and top surface. The
3 Measure from the backsplash face to
the countertop edge, and cut a blank for
the endsplash (III) 1⁄8" shorter. Cover the
Note: Caulk the seams
between the countertop,
backsplash, endsplash,
top doesn’t need to fit precisely up to the exposed end, top edge, and face with plastic and tower cabinet with
wall; the backsplash (HHH) and endsplash laminate. Install the endsplash. tub and tile sealant.
Note: Cut out the sink

hole with the counter-
(III) will cover minor gaps.
6 Jigsaw the sink opening, following the

sink manufacturer’s template. Attach the
4 Install the sink and faucet, and connect
the drain and supply lines, following the
applicable instructions (or call a plumber).
top roughly in place on
the cabinets. The hole
makes the top easy to
countertop to the cabinets with screws up
through the stretchers (O, W) with shims as
needed. Use a depth gauge when drilling
5 Install the hinge mounting plates, fol-
lowing the manufacturer’s instructions.
Attach the hinges to the plates, adjust the
break while lifting and pilot holes. doors, and add stops to the top face-frame
moving it. rails. Add door and drawer pulls. (We
Finish the job bought pulls from a home center.)
1 Set the tower cabinet on the countertop

and scribe the finish panels (K) to the
wall. Glue and pin the panels to the cabinet,
6 Engage the drawer clips with the slides,
then drop the storage cups [Sources] into
the insert holes. Push the drawers shut.
Download the
Cutting Diagram
and screw the cabinet to the wall.
2 Measure from the wall to the tower cabi-

net and cut a blank for the backsplash
7 Put things away in your now-abundant
drawer and shelf space. Then, enjoy the
new look of luxury in your bathroom.
for this project.
woodmagazine.com/
CDbath
(HHH). Cover the top edge and face with
Produced by Larry Johnston with Kevin Boyle
plastic laminate, and glue to the wall using Project design: Kevin Boyle
construction adhesive. Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson
Materials List FINISHED SIZE Doors, drawer false fronts Insert, shelves
Z tower door stiles 3⁄4" 21⁄4" 355⁄16" WO 2 YY vertical supports 3⁄4" 71⁄2" 101⁄8" M 2
Tower cabinet carcase
AA tower door rails 3⁄4" 21⁄4" 111⁄16" WO 2 ZZ insert sides 5⁄ 8" 65⁄8" 133⁄8" M 2
A sides 1⁄ 2" 151⁄4" 45" PFP 2
BB tower door panel 1⁄4" 111⁄16" 319⁄16" MP 1 AAA insert top 5⁄ 8" 8" 133⁄8" M 1
B back 1⁄ 2" 163⁄4" 45" PFP 1
CC base door stiles 3⁄4" 21⁄4" 255⁄16" WO 6 BBB moveable shelves 1⁄ 2" 131⁄2" 161⁄8" PFP 2
top/bottom/ 1⁄ 2"
C 143⁄4" 163⁄4" PFP 3
DD base door rails 3⁄4" 21⁄4" 115⁄8" CCC shelf edges 3⁄4" 1" 131⁄2" WO 2
fixed shelf WO 6
D face-frame stiles 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 45" WO 2 1⁄4"
EE base door panels 115⁄8" 219⁄16" MP 3 Base and countertop
E face-frame rails 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 15" WO 3 3⁄4"
FF front stiles 3⁄4" 21⁄4" 89⁄16" WO 4 DDD front/back 4" 681⁄2" SP 2
F drawer-slide blocking 5⁄8" 2" 2" WO 10 GG front rails 3⁄4" 21⁄4" 111⁄16" WO 4 EEE stretchers 3⁄4" 4" 173⁄4" SP 6
G* crown base front 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 183⁄4" WO 1 1⁄4"
HH front panels 1⁄4" 111⁄16" 413⁄16" MP 2 FFF* toekick 4" 695⁄8" SP 1
H* crown base sides 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 161⁄8" WO 2 Drawers and tray GGG countertop core 11⁄2" 25" 71" LMDF 1
I* crown front 1⁄ 2" 27⁄8" 213⁄8" WO 1 3⁄4"
IItower drawer sides 5⁄8" 4" 12" WO 2 HHH* backsplash 4" 531⁄4" MDF 1
J* crown sides 1⁄ 2" 27⁄8" 177⁄16" JJ tower/shallow
WO 2 5 7 III* endsplash 3⁄4" 4" 25" MDF 1
1⁄4"
drawer backs/fronts ⁄8" 4" 13 ⁄8" WO 6
K* finish panels 15" 45" MP 2 *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
KK drawer false fronts 3⁄4" 413 ⁄16" 1413⁄16" WO 2 Materials key: PFP–maple plywood prefinished on one side, MP–
Base cabinet carcases
LL tower drawer bottom 1⁄4" 137⁄8" 111⁄4" MP 1 maple plywood, WO–white oak, M–maple, SP–softwood plywood, LMDF–
L sides 1⁄ 2" 23" 281⁄2" PFP 6
5⁄ 8" laminated medium-density fiberboard, MDF–medium-density fiberboard.
MM deep drawer sides 71⁄2" 21" M 6
M backs 1⁄ 2" 163⁄4" 281⁄2" PFP 2 Supplies: 35mm overlay door hinges (3 pair), magnetic door catches
1⁄ 2"
NN shallow drawer sides 5⁄8" 4" 21" M 4 (3), 1⁄4" shelf pins (4), #8×2", 11⁄2", and 11⁄4" flathead screws, #7×11⁄4"
N bottoms 163⁄4" 23" PFP 2
pocket screws, 11⁄2" finish nails, 1" brads or narrow-crown staples, 21"
O stretchers 1⁄ 2" 4" 163⁄4" PFP 4 OO deep drawer
backs/fronts
5⁄ 8" 71⁄ 2" 137⁄8" M 6
self-closing drawer slides (6 pair), 12" self-closing drawer slides (1 pair), 4"
P* leg stiles 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 321⁄2" WO 2 PP bottoms 1⁄4" 137⁄ 8" 201⁄4" MP 5 door/drawer pulls, plastic laminate.
Blade and bit: Dado set; 1⁄8" round-over router bit.
Q face-frame stiles 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 281⁄2" WO 4 Wide base cabinet drawers
Sources: Hettich Quadro IW21 soft-closing slides 21" (6), no.
QQ wide drawer
R face-frame rails 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 15" WO 6 5⁄ 8" HT9134329, $21; Hettich Quadro IW21 soft-closing slides 12", no.
inner sides 71⁄2" 125⁄8" M 2
S* finish panel 1⁄4" 231⁄2" 321⁄2" MP 1 HT9134388, $27; Hettich Quadro front clips for IW21 for 1⁄2" subfront (7),
RR wide drawer backs 5⁄ 8" 71⁄2" 73⁄8" M 2 no. HT9140416, $2; Hettich Quadro plastic screw-on rear brackets (14),
T* feet 3⁄4" 4" 7" WO 2 no. HT1135181, $2; Blum 110° soft-close half-cranked screw-on hinges
SS wide drawer
middle back
5⁄ 8" 71⁄2" 121⁄2" M 1
(6), no. B071B3650, $6; Blum inset face-frame 9mm screw-on clip mount-
Wide base cabinet carcase
1⁄ 2" TT wide drawer front 3⁄4" 71⁄2" 281⁄4" M 1 ing plates (6), no. B175H5030.21, $3.10; Fastcap inset door stops, no.
U back 323⁄4" 281⁄2" PFP 1
fceuro-door, pack of 10, $2; Woodworker’s Hardware, 800-383-0130,
UU large bottoms 1⁄4" 201⁄4" 271⁄2" MP 2
V bottom 1⁄ 2" 323⁄4" 23" PFP 1 wwhardware.com.
W stretchers 1⁄ 2" 4" 323⁄4" PFP 2 VV tray sides 5⁄ 8" 21⁄2" 21" M 2 Insert cups, Tablecraft HU2 51⁄4" round brushed stainless steel utensil
5⁄ 8" holders (2), no. 808HU2, $5.89, webstaurantstore.com.
X face-frame rails 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 31" WO 2 WW tray back 21⁄2" 271⁄2" M 1
Concealed hinge router JIG IT, no. 33234, $20, Rockler, 800-279-4441,
XX tray front 3⁄4" 21⁄2" 281⁄4" M 1
Y drawer-slide blocking 11⁄2" 11⁄2" 2" WO 4 rockler.com.
woodmagazine.com 39
Table-tennis
Table
Serve up hours of fun with this gorgeous game table.

W
hether you challenge a buddy or the
kids to a game of what’s properly
called table tennis and colloquially
known as “ping pong,” this regulation-size
table will endure years of serious paddle
pounding or just casual ball batting with nary
a wobble. The rock-solid base and playing
surface show off your woodworking skills
while you show off your paddle prowess. Six
enormous drawers provide storage for game
accessories, board games, and perhaps half of
your wardrobe. For ease of moving the table
into place, the leg assemblies separate from
the table, and the top consists of two halves
that easily assemble onsite.
Get the paddles, balls, and

net we used by hovering your
smartphone’s camera over this
code (no app required!) or go
to woodmagazine.com/pong.
Learn more than you care to

know about the origin of the
term “ping pong.”
woodmagazine.com/ping
Approximate
60" W × 108" D × 30" H
materials cost:
$900
72 mph
World record
for fastest
table-tennis hit
woodmagazine.com 41
U
U
Tabletop built in two halves
with cherry banding for
boundaries and midlines
Optional Pocket holes and butt joints
#8 x 1¼" F.H. screw speed construction.
J
EXPLODED VIEW J
E H
C H O G
H
P M F
O
#8 x 1¼"
10½"
P
F.H. screws C
Six spacious drawers reclaim Hanger bolt
space below table and
glide on self-closing slides. Leg assemblies bolt
to center core, easing
transport and setup.
Build sturdy end assemblies
1 Cut the fillers (A), feet (B), legs (C), and leg
rails (D) to size [Drawing 1, Materials List].
Bevel-cut the ends of the fillers, then use them
to mark the tapers on the feet [Drawing 1a, Photo
A]. Bandsaw and hand-plane to the lines.
2 Glue each filler (A) between two feet (B),

flush at the bottom and the tapered edges
[Drawing 1]. Then, glue a leg (C) to each B
assembly, flush at the bottom. After the glue A
dries, round over the edges, and finish-sand
the assemblies.
3 Cut to size the braces (E) and panels (F).

Drill pocket holes in the rails and braces.
Glue the braces to the inside faces of the
panels, flush at the top and bottom [Drawing
1]. Glue the leg rails (D) to these assemblies.
4 Glue the panel assemblies (D–F) to the

leg assemblies (A–C). After the glue
dries, drive the pocket screws.
A
Align the beveled ends of a filler (A) with the ends of a foot (B) and mark
along the outside face of the filler.
1 END ASSEMBLY 1a FOOT DETAIL

C
48" 5¼"
E 10º B 29¼"
bevel
F
E
13" B B
15"
C A 12¾"
D 1¼" fine-thread 10º bevel
pocket screw
¾"
round-over
B
3"
42 ¾" round-overs WOOD magazine November 2020

Work on your core L
A gridwork of dividers and braces creates
drawer openings between two face frames
and supports the tabletop.
1 Cut the end panels (G), dividers (H, I),

and braces (J, K) [Drawing 2]. Drill pocket
holes in all but part I.
Take care and make
sure the parts are
square to each other
2 Glue and pocket-screw the short dividers
(H) to the long divider (I) [Drawing 2]. Cen-
ter an end panel (G) on each end of the long F J
as you assemble them. divider and glue and screw them in place.
3 Glue the braces (J, K) to the dividers

[Drawing 2]. Center the narrow braces (J)
on the short dividers (H); butt the wide
E
G
braces (K) against the end panels (G).
4 Cut to size the rails (L), stiles (M), and

divider edging (N) [Drawing 2a]. Drill
pocket holes in the stiles and edging.
B
Bolting the end assemblies to the case allows for disassembling the table into
5 Glue the stiles and divider edging
between the rails, positioning the edging
so it aligns with the short dividers (H). After
smaller components for transport.
each frame [Drawing 2a]. Finish-sand the

the glue dries, drive pocket screws. assemblies.
6 Dry-fit the frames (L–N) and end assem-

blies (A–F) to the divider assembly. Cut
the long edging (O) to fit between the legs
8 Glue and pocket-screw the frames (L–P)
to the short dividers (H) and braces (J, K),
flush at the top. Clamp the end assemblies
The notches accept (C) and glue it to the rails (L), flush at the top (A–F) to the case and drill pilot holes for Use a right-angle drill
the fillers (W) around and bottom. Separate the subassemblies. hanger bolts through the end panels (G) and attachment to drill in
the bottom faces of
the tabletops [Drawing
4], securing the tops
7 Cut the short edging (P) to fit between
the long edging and glue it in place. After
the glue dries, attach a tall auxiliary fence to
into the braces (E) [Exploded View]. Remove the
end assemblies and drive the bolts. Enlarge
the end-panel holes and secure the end
the opening between
the end panels and
short dividers.
against each other. your miter gauge, and notch the middle of assemblies to the case [Photo B].
M
46½" J N O
46½" J L
1¼" fine-thread
pocket screw
G H
2 CORE I
ASSEMBLY 15"
227/8" G
19"
H
61/8" K 19" #8 x 2" F.H. screw
M J 19"
N L J
P K
N Note: On the bottom face of K ,
66½" O M drill two pocket holes on each end.
L 15"
O P 2a FACE FRAME (Inside face)

73¾"
¾" 7" 333/8"
L
Location of Location of P 19" 19"
parts O M N ¾" M 9"
L 3"
woodmagazine.com 43
Now, some big drawers
Note: We used
MDF-core plywood
for drawer bottoms
1 Cut the drawer sides (Q) and fronts/
backs (R) [Drawing 3]. Groove all pieces for
the bottoms (S), then dado the sides. Rabbet
around and between false fronts. Press the
false fronts against the tape, push the draw-
ers out, and secure the false fronts with
To watch a free video
showing how to install
drawer slides, hover
because it fits snug in a the fronts and backs to create tongues to fit screws [Drawing 3]. Drill mounting holes for your smartphone’s
1∕4" groove. in the dadoes. the pulls [Sources] and install them. camera over this code
Note: To maximize 2 Cut the drawer bottoms (S) to size, finish-

sand all the parts, then glue up the drawers. Give it a playing surface
(no app required!)
or visit
the yield from our
plywood, we ran the
grain vertically on the
3 Cut the false fronts (T) and cover the
plies with veneer banding [Skill Builder,
next page]. Finish-sand the false fronts.
Cherry edging and inlaid stripes of cherry
mark the boundaries on the birch playing
surface.
woodmagazine.com/
drawerslidesvid.
false fronts.
4 Screw drawer slides to the case assembly
and to each drawer, positioning them so
the drawer fronts (R) sit flush with the front
1 Cut the top panels (U) [Drawing 4]. Rout a
centered groove in each, cut the stripes
(V) to fit the grooves, and glue and tape the
of the rails and stiles (L, M). Slide the draw- stripes in place.
ers into the case.
5 Place double-faced tape on each drawer

front, then position the false fronts (T)
2 Cut the fillers (W) and glue and screw
them under the top panels [Drawing 4].
Trim the filler edges with a flush-trim router
using spacers to achieve even reveals all bit, if needed.

SKILL BUILDER
Iron away ugly edges banding in a variety of species to match your
Watch a video Iron-on veneer edge banding and a couple of project. Here’s how to get the best results.
of this process. simple tools [Sources] make quick work of hiding First, plug in an iron and let it warm up. Check Tip! Don’t use the good
woodmagazine.com/ unsightly edges on plywood or other sheet goods. the instructions that come with the veneer to iron from the house. Buy
edgebandvideo The adhesive melts under a warm, dry iron, then choose the appropriate heat setting. Then follow a new one or find one at
cools to form a secure bond. You’ll find veneer the steps below. a thrift shop.
Grip a false front (T) in a vise with the short edge up. Cut a strip of veneer Trim the veneer flush at the corners with a veneer trimmer. Sand the end lightly
about 1⁄2" longer than the edge and position it so it overhangs slightly all around. to bring the veneer perfectly flush, being careful to not round the corner. To
Starting at one corner, press the iron onto the veneer and slide it along the prevent chip-out, sand in one direction, from the corner toward the middle of the
length of the workpiece. Repeat for the opposite edge. workpiece.
Trim the edges flush with a banding trimmer. As with the ends, sand carefully to Apply veneer to the top and bottom of the false front, covering the ends of the
smooth the edges. veneer on the sides. Trim and sand as before.
woodmagazine.com 45
3 Cut to size the edging (X, Y). Glue the
end edging (X) in place first, then the
side edging (Y), keeping the top edges flush
5 We disassembled the table to its smaller
components to spray on a conversion
varnish. If you wipe on a finish, you can
with the tabletop. leave it mostly assembled, removing only
4 Test the fit of the tabletops on the base.

The fillers (W) and edging (X) at the
center should engage snug in the notches.
the top and drawers. Secure the tabletop to
the cross braces (J) with #8×11∕4" screws, if
you wish.
Remove the tabletops and finish-sand them
Produced by Craig Ruegsegger with Brian Bergstrom and John Olson
and all other parts needing it. Project design: John Olson
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson
Materials List FINISHED SIZE Drawers

Q sides 1⁄ 2" 8 1⁄2" 22" BB 12
End assemblies
R fronts/backs 1⁄ 2" 8 1⁄2" 17 1⁄2" BB 12
A fillers 1 1⁄2" 3" 13" C 4
S bottoms 1⁄4" 17 1⁄2" 21 1⁄2" MP 6
B feet 1 1⁄2" 5 1⁄4" 12 3⁄4" C 8
T false fronts 3⁄4" 19 5⁄8" 10 1⁄4" CP 6
C legs 1 1⁄2" 6" 29 1⁄4" C 4
Tops
D leg rails 1 1⁄2" 6" 48" C 2
U top panels 3⁄4" 59" 53" BB 2
E braces 1 1⁄2" 3 1⁄2" 48" P 4
V stripes 1⁄4" 1⁄4" 53" C 2
F panels 3⁄4" 48" 15" CP 2
W fillers 3⁄4" 3" 53" CP 8
Core assembly
X end edging 1⁄ 2" 1 1⁄2" 59" C 4
G end panels 3⁄4" 15" 46 1⁄2" MP 2
Y side edging 1⁄ 2" 1 1⁄2" 54" C 4
H short dividers 3⁄4" 13 1⁄2" 22 7⁄8" MP 8
3⁄4"
Materials key: C–cherry, P–pine, CP–cherry plywood, MP–maple
I long divider 13 1⁄2" 72 1⁄4" MP 1 plywood, BB–Baltic birch plywood.
J narrow braces 3⁄4" 3" 46 1⁄2" MP 6 Bits: 3⁄4" round-over, flush-trim, 1⁄4" straight router bits.
K wide braces 3⁄4" 8" 46 1⁄2" MP 2 Supplies: #8×1" flathead screws, #8×11⁄4" flathead screws, #8×2"
flathead screws, 11⁄4" fine-thread pocket screws, 5⁄16"-18×3" hanger bolts
L rails 3⁄4" 3" 73 3⁄4" C 4 (8), 5⁄16” nuts and washers (8), 22" full-extension drawer slides (6 pair).
M stiles 3⁄4" 7 5⁄8" 9" C 4 Sources: Cherry hotmelt edge banding (50') no. 45399, $14; Veneer
3⁄4" 3⁄4"
trimmer no. 28542, $40; FastCap quad edge banding trimmer no. 45318,
N divider edging 9" C 4 $24, rockler.com, 800-279-4441. 128mm rubbed bronze pulls (6), no.
O long edging 3⁄4" 2 1⁄4" 66 1⁄2" C 4 858095, $6 ea., woodcraft.com, 800-225-1153.
P short edging 3⁄4" 3 9⁄16" 10 1⁄2" C 4
This project requires approximately

Cutting Diagram 38 board feet of 8/4 cherry, 22 board
feet of 4/4 cherry, 7 square feet of 1∕2"
A A A A cherry, and 3 board feet of 8/4 pine.
1½ x 3½ x 72" Cherry
B B B B B B B B
1½ x 5½ x 120" Cherry
C C D
1½ x 7¼ x 120" Cherry (2 needed)
L
¾ x 3½ x 96" Cherry (4 needed)
N N N N E
M M M M 1½ x 3½ x 48" Pine (4 needed)
¾ x 9¼ x 48" Cherry
P P O
¾ x 5½ x 96" Cherry (2 needed)
X X
*V Y Y
½ x 7¼ x 120" Cherry *Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List.
W
F F T T T T T T
¾ x 48 x 96" Cherry plywood

Q R R
Q R R
Q R R
S S S Q R R
Q R R
S S S Q R R
½ x 60 x 60" Baltic birch plywood
¼ x 48 x 96" Maple plywood
Q Q
Q Q
H H H H
Q Q
H H H H ½ x 30 x 60" Baltic birch plywood
¾ x 48 x 96" Maple plywood
K
J
K
J
J
¾ x 24 x 48" Maple plywood G
G
¾ x 60 x 60" Baltic birch plywood (2 needed)
¾ x 48 x 48" Maple plywood
woodmagazine.com 47
How to buy an
air compressor
No longer a luxury, these tools prove invaluable
in the shop, home, and job site.
E
very workshop should have an air com- As with many tools and machines, the
pressor for powering nailers, sprayers, answer to that question depends on how you
and other pneumatic woodworking plan to use it. But each task and tool have dif-
tools, as well as other do-it-yourself jobs, such ferent demands, and not every compressor
as inflating tires and breaking lug nuts loose can meet those demands. Here’s what you
with an impact wrench. But because compres- need to know to get the compressor that will
sors come in countless sizes, shapes, and do all you want it to.
capabilities, how do you know which one to
get for your shop?

Airflow needs of pneumatic tools
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
■ Tire-inflation ■ Blower ■ Impact wrench

nozzle nozzle ■ Die grinder (3∕8 – 1∕2") ■ Dual-action
1–2 cfm 2–3 cfm (1∕4") 5–8 cfm ■ Finish/paint orbital sander
4–6 cfm sprayer 10–15 cfm
■ 18-gauge ■ 15-gauge 7–12 cfm
brad nailer finish nailer 2–3
1–2 cfm cfm
Typical compressor
Related projects Airflow keeps you working; configurations
you can build the tank waits in reserve
An air compressor, as its name suggests, “Hot-dog” style, usually 1–4 gallons
uses a pump to pack a large volume of air
into a small amount of space—the tank—
increasing the air pressure (expressed in
pounds per square inch, or psi) so it can be
put to work in a tool. Some tools, such as
nailers, require only momentary bursts of Twin-stack, usually 3–4 gallons
that pressurized air to do their job. Others,
such as finish sprayers, demand a large
volume of air (expressed in cubic feet per
This storage rack minute, or cfm), sometimes at a lower pres-
holds your nailers, sure. (See the chart above for the airflow Pancake-style, usually 4–6 gallons
fasteners, and demands of various tools.)
accessories. As you use the tool, air depleted from the
woodstore.net/ tank must be replaced, so the pump kicks on
nailerstation to refill it. If the tank output exceeds the
pump’s input, it starves the tool, and you’ll
have to work in spurts, waiting for the tank
to refill. Or you’ll find the tool can’t do its
job well, leaving nails standing proud of the
surface, for example.
Take a look at the chart to see which
pneumatic tools you’ll want to operate with Wheeled horizontal, usually 6–20 gallons
your compressor. Once you’ve figured out
Build a shop cart for which tool on your list demands the most
your compressor. airflow, search for a compressor with a
woodstore.net/ pump rated for the needed airflow, or one
airstation close to it with a tank large enough to hold
plenty of air in reserve. For example, if you
want to use a paint sprayer, which requires
about 7–12 cfm of continuous air flow, a
compressor with at least a 30-gallon tank
will likely have a sufficient pump as well.
There are several compressor configura-
tions, shown right, but tank capacity (rated
in gallons) matters more than style.
Store your hose on
this handy hanger.
woodstore.net/
hosehanger Wheeled vertical, usually 10–30 gallons
woodmagazine.com 49
Intercooler
Just going through a stage (or two)
A single-stage compressor draws air into its one-cylinder pump—a few
models use two cylinders—and then compresses the air directly into
the tank. These usually operate on 110-volt electrical service.
A two-stage unit has two pistons housed in a cast-iron pump to divide
the workload, and requires 220 volts. The first piston compresses air to Pistons
about half the desired pressure level, then sends it through an Piston
intercooler (removing built-up heat from friction) to the second cylinder,
where the air gets further compressed and then sealed inside the tank
at a pressure higher than a single-stage compressor.
Two-stage compressors usually have 80-gallon or larger tanks and
can produce about twice the airflow of single-stage models. This allows
you to use high-demand tools, such as large sprayers, impact wrenches,
and dual-action sanders, without running low on air pressure. For most
home woodworking shops, one of these would be overkill. Inline two cylinder, two-stage
One cylinder, single-stage
Portable or stationary?
To be considered portable, a compressor slower motor speed and two pistons,
needs to be light enough to carry, or have enabling these machines to create the same
one or more wheels so you can roll it around. airflow as a single-piston, high-speed com-
Hand-carry units typically have 1–6-gallon pressor. This lower noise can make a huge
tanks and can deliver 4–5 cfm at 90 psi. difference in a workshop.
Wheeled compressors go up to 30-gallon
tanks with airflow up to 10–12 cfm at 90 psi.
Consumer-level stationary compressors
Learn how to plumb generally have 60-gallon or larger tanks,
your shop for a network with pumps capable of sustaining 15–30
of compressed-air lines cfm. (Industrial models can have bigger Air intake cover
and connections. tanks and generate far greater airflow.)
woodmagazine.com/ Many stationary models use a two-stage
plumbairshop pump, shown above, to maximize efficiency.
If you go with a compressor of this size,
dedicate a space in the shop and anchor it to
the floor or wall to prevent movement.
To oil or not to oil Air intake

All that pumping generates a lot of friction,
so the pumps on most compressors use an
oil bath for lubricating the piston(s). This
helps to both increase longevity (less piston
and cylinder wear) and decrease noise. But Oil fill
that oil needs to be changed regularly
depending on the hours of use. And if you
use the compressor in cold-weather condi-
tions, you should change to thinner oil in
the winter months.
Oil-free compressor pumps are mostly
maintenance-free, but tend to be louder
than oil-lubricated pumps because the
metal-piston-in-metal-cylinder action reso-
nates more. Many oil-free models produce
noise well above the level where you should
wear hearing protection (85 decibels). View window
However, some manufacturers now make
small, portable, oil-free compressors that
create remarkably low noise levels (less than With an oil-lube pump, you’ll need to check the oil level regularly through the view
70 dB), even quieter than comparable oil- window, located just above the drain plug. You also should check the air intake
lube models. They achieve this by using a occasionally to keep it clean.
Pick your power source And these days, you can buy air compres-
A gas-powered model works great on a job sors powered by rechargeable lithium-ion
site, but inside a workshop, you’ll obviously battery packs. These models tend to have
want an electric-powered compressor. Most smaller motors, tanks, and airflow, and the
electric compressors with 30-gallon or battery runtime proves respectable. They
smaller tanks run on 110-volt service; larger work great for powering a finish nailer, but
units require 220 volts. not for any tool requiring more sustained
airflow than that.
A gas-powered compressor typically has twin saddle tanks mounted on a A battery-powered compressor usually weighs 15–25 pounds with a battery
wheelbarrow-style frame, making it easy to move around a job site. installed, so it’s easily carried around.
A battery-powered inflator, although it lacks the storage tank of an air compressor, Multiple quick-connect ports allow you to use two tools at the same time without
comes in handy for inflating tires, sports balls, air mattresses, and such. connecting and disconnecting the tool from the hose each time.
Don’t forget the hose

Make sure to get the Most compressors don’t come with a hose, so plan on buying one when budgeting for the
right quick-connect compressor. For shop use, you can use either a ¼"- or 3∕8"-diameter hose. Most come in 50'
fittings for your hose. and 100' lengths; if that’s too long, either search the market for a 25' hose, or cut a longer
woodmagazine.com/ one to fit and reattach the fitting. Similarly, quick-connect fixtures do not come with hoses,
airfittings so you’ll have to get those, too. Supple polyurethane and rubber hoses tend to lie flatter on
the floor after uncoiling than do stiff plastic or PVC-reinforced hoses.
Produced by Bob Hunter
Illustrations: Tim Cahill, Lorna Johnson
woodmagazine.com 51
Scrollsawing
Tips and Tricks by Jenny Boles
Whether you’re a beginning or intermediate scroller,

these expert tips help you improve your results and
save time, material, and money.
Photos: Jon Cherry Photogrpahy
Jenny Boles, a professional woodworker in

Louisville, Ky., specializes in scrollsawing.
She’s been building projects since 2005,
including decorative boxes, humidors, and
side tables. Find Jenny’s work at
willowswoodworks.com.

S
crollsawing is a great introduction to
woodworking because you don’t need a
shop full of tools to start. All you need is
a scrollsaw, shop vacuum or dust collector,
and a sander or two. You can get all that for Skip tooth
less than $500. And if you’re artistic you can
create your own patterns, and won’t have to
purchase them.
Start with a good saw

Scrollsaws are classified by their throat Reverse tooth
capacity, the distance between the blade and
neck (where the upper and lower arms join
together). Most models range from 16–22", Pin end Plain end
Don’t have a so if you want to make big signs or projects,
scrollsaw yet? Read get the biggest saw you can afford. increase the speed of the saw. Use both
Jenny’s reviews of five Nearly all scrollsaws sell as benchtop hands to guide the workpiece, allowing the
popular models on machines, and although a few come with a blade to do the work. Don’t push the work-
p. 74. stand, I recommend building your own so piece through the cut, but instead use your
you can customize it to a comfortable work- hands to simply guide and rotate it, allowing
ing height. (You might have to make a proto- the blade to follow the pattern lines. If you
type first or work on sawhorses with risers to have to push the workpiece hard, you are
find the height you like.) Bolt the saw to the either using the incorrect blade for that
stand to prevent it from scooting. material, the blade has reached the end of its
I suggest buying a foot-pedal power switch, life cycle, the saw needs to run faster, or the
if one doesn’t come with the saw. This allows blade needs more tension.
you to turn the saw on and off while keeping
both hands on the workpiece, and your focus Add an auxiliary table
on the blade. To help you clearly see your cuts, for intricate work
especially on intricate work, mount an LED A zero-clearance auxiliary table prevents
magnifying lens [Sources, p. 55]. small cutoffs from falling through the table.
Simply sand smooth a scrap of 1⁄4" or 1⁄2" ply-
Choose the right blade, wood, and drill a hole slightly larger than your
and let it do the work blade. To help workpieces glide smoothly, I
Scrollsaws take either pin-end or plain-end like to apply a few coats of shellac, sanding
(pinless) blades, shown above. Some saws between each coat with 400-grit sandpaper.
accept both types. I prefer plain-end blades Mount the table to the saw, as shown below.
because you’ll find a larger selection of styles
and sizes to choose from, and they require a
much smaller entry hole for interior cuts.
The most commonly used sizes are num-
With scrollsaw blade bered 1–12, with reverse-tooth or skip-tooth
sizes, the higher the styles, shown above right. Both types pro-
number, the thicker duce clean cuts with limited tear-out or
and wider the blade, “fuzz.” For thick or dense materials, use a
generally with fewer larger blade: Numbers 7, 9, and 12 work best
teeth per inch. for me. These blades allow you to hog out
material faster and cut well on straightaways
and gentle curves.
For thin material, or for cutting a complex
design with sharp curves or tight corners,
choose smaller blades: I prefer numbers 1, 3,
and 5. Sometimes a design requires using sev-
eral blade types: a larger blade to hog out the
majority of the material, and a smaller blade
for tight-radius cuts. Buy a variety pack and try
different sizes to see which blades work best for
your saw and different materials.
A new blade cuts quickly, so reduce the
saw’s speed to help you develop control and Thread the blade through the hole in the auxiliary table and clamp this table to
accuracy with your cut. As the blade dulls, the back of your scrollsaw table, or secure it with double-faced tape.
woodmagazine.com 53
Adhere contact paper to the “good face” after removing all dust from the wood. Spray the adhesive—I like 3M Super 77—on the back of the pattern and immediately
press the pattern onto the contact paper. After cutting, the contact paper and pattern will peel off easily.
Easy on, easy off patterns After drilling all the holes for the pattern,
To avoid a sticky mess when adhering a paper sand the back of the workpiece to remove
pattern to a workpiece, I like to apply contact any splinters and fuzz from around the
paper on the workpiece first, and then adhere holes to ensure the workpiece glides
the pattern as shown above. This allows for smoothly over the table without any catches.
easy removal of both when you finish cutting, Secure the blade in the lower jaw, thread
with minimal residue on the workpiece. the blade through a hole (below), then secure
it in the upper jaw, and adjust the tension as Tip! You learn proper
Start cutouts with small holes needed. Cut away that particular inner por- blade tensioning with
One of the main benefits of a scrollsaw over tion and repeat for each interior cutout. experience. Typically,
a bandsaw, is that a scrollsaw allows you to look for no more than
cut away voids within a design, such as with Begin cuts in the middle 1∕8" of side-to-side
fretwork or signs, without an entry/exit cut. Many designs have very narrow areas or deflection. If your blade
To do this, I use a twist bit in a drill press, sharp points to cut. Beginning or ending a breaks, you are likely
handheld drill, or pin-vise drill [Sources]— cut directly at one of these sharp transitions over-tensioning; if it’s
depending on the size of the hole and work- will likely result in fraying or splitting, drifting, bending, or not
piece—to drill a hole into the waste portion potentially ruining your project. To avoid able to cut to speed,
of an inside cut, below. Drill a hole just large this, enter a cut on a straight line within the then it’s likely
enough to thread your blade through; too design, as shown in the bottom photos. under-tensioned.
large of a hole can result in tear-out.
When drilling blade holes in interior cutouts, a sacrificial board under the By threading a workpiece with interior cutouts onto a blade, you eliminate the
workpiece prevents tear-out. need for an entry cut through the design.
Entry cut
By entering this perimeter cut perpendicular to and in the center of a straight When you complete a perimeter cut and arrive back at the entry point, use the
line, you can turn and cut along the pattern line. blade to lightly shave smooth any rough or uneven edges.
Stacking does double duty
By stacking and cutting multiple workpieces
at the same time, you create precise duplicates,
and greatly reduce tear-out. To stack-cut,
arrange blanks with the “good side” facing up,
and use one of four methods to hold them
together:
■ Wrap clear packing or painter’s tape
tightly around the stack,
■ Drive nails or screws in the waste por-
tions of the design,
■ Use double-faced tape between each layer,
■ Apply hot-melt glue between each work-
piece.
When stack-cutting, always saw out inte-
rior areas first, then cut the perimeter. This
allows the tape or screws to hold all boards
together throughout the entire cut.
By stack-cutting these cherry and walnut boards, you can swap out pieces
As your skills develop you can incorpo- from each to fit perfectly with the other species.
rate several variations of stack-cutting.
■ Stack-cut different thicknesses of same- ■ Adhere a pattern to a stack of boards and
size stock. Then, fit parts together to create create a unique joinery design, as shown
different depths within a design. below.
■ Stack-cut different species of woods
together to produce identical cutouts. Then Sources
Magnifying LED work light, no. 57312, $70, Rockler
create the look and feel of inlays within box Woodworking and Hardware, 800-279-4441, rockler.com.
tops or wood art by mixing and matching Pin-vise drill, no. 81D4027, $19.50, Lee Valley Tools,
the different species, as shown top right. 800-871-8158, leevalley.com.
Create an interesting joint with stack-cutting
“Pin” boards
“Tail” boards
A B
Tape together contrasting species of wood (four box sides and four short “inlay” With the blade (or table) tilted 4° to the left, cut the joint precisely along the
pieces) aligned at the ends. pattern lines, taking care to not veer off course.
C D
After cutting all parts, separate the layers. Glue the dark portions of the cutoff After sanding smooth, miter-cut the box ends. Next, glue the sides together for
into the box sides. an intriguing joint.
woodmagazine.com 55
Stylish Stool
Sure, you could build a seat this sturdy for your shop. Just don’t be surprised
if its clean shape earns it a home beneath a kitchen counter.
Approximate
16½" W × 16½" D × 25¼" H
materials cost:
$70
Customize
the stool
height to
fit your
needs.

Drill 1/8" ¾"
reference holes.
3/8"
¾"
Figure-8 fastener
EXPLODED VIEW
D 12"
3/8" dowel 13/8" long
B 24" 115/16" 17/16"
3/8" hole
11/16" deep A
Drill 1/8"
reference
holes.
E 2½"
E
3/8" dowels
A 13/8" long 1¼"
A
Layout
lines
C
63/8"
6"
37/8"
1 LEG TEMPLATE
PATTERN
C hances are you’ll want more than one

stool, so multiply part quantities by the
number of stools you’ll make.
Fairing stick
Make four curved legs

Note: The stool height
was designed to com-
fortably rest your feet
1 Cut four 11∕4×4×24" blanks for the legs (A)
and a 4×24" 1∕4" plywood blank for the leg
template. On the template blank, mark the
Leg template blank
on the lower stretcher. curve ends and midpoints [Drawing 1], then
Raise or lower the trace the arcs onto the template [Photo A].
stretchers and adjust Drill the 1∕8" holes, and extend the layout A
their length to suit your lines for the lower stretcher (C) to the edge of Form the curves for the leg template with a fairing stick or a 1∕4×1" plywood
own height. the blank. Cut and sand the template to the scrap. Clamp one end at a marked endpoint and flex it until the edge aligns with
curved lines. a midpoint mark and the other endpoint, then trace the arc.
woodmagazine.com 57
Auxiliary fence
Leg template
B C
Use the leg template to drill ¼"-deep dowel-location holes in the leg blanks (A). Use the rip fence as a guide to make identical cuts in both halves of each
Flipping the template lets you locate holes on both left and right legs. stretcher (B, C). Add an auxiliary fence to the miter fence for less tear-out.
2 Place the template on a leg (A) blank,

trace the shape, and drill through the 1∕8"
location holes into the leg [Photo B]. Repeat to
3 Cut and sand the legs (A) to shape, round
over the edges [Drawing 2], and finish-sand. Note: The stretcher
blanks’ widths allow for
make two left and two right legs. Remove Shape the stretchers 1∕8" saw kerfs. Reduce
the template and drill the 3∕8" dowel holes

centered on the 1∕8" holes [Exploded View]. 1 Cut two 15 ∕8×12" blanks and two 21 ∕8×141 ∕2"
blanks for the stretchers (B, C). Rip each
the part width if you
use a thin-kerf blade.
Custom drilling jig keeps dowel holes true

Dowel joinery demands precision, which can be To test the jig, clamp a top-stretcher-width
tricky on the mitered ends of the stretchers. But scrap to the jig with one edge flush, as shown
this simple drilling jig makes it dead-on accurate. below, and drill a single hole closest to the
To make it, miter one end of a 1×2×6" scrap. aligned edges. Then align the opposite edges
On the leg template, extend the lower stretcher and repeat for the other hole. If the holes align
(C) hole layout lines down the inside edge. with those in the leg, drill the top stretchers
Transfer the marks to the top face of the scrap (B). Before drilling the lower stretchers (C), test
equidistant from each edge, below. Extend the the jig with the 2"-wide scrap. Then clamp the
marks parallel to the edges of the scrap. Mark drilling jig to a lower stretcher (C) with both
the lines 2" from the toe of the miter and use a edges flush, and drill stopped holes into the
drill press to bore two 3 ∕8" holes where the lines mitered end. Repeat for the opposite end and
intersect. Cut the scrap 3" long, then glue and other stretcher.
screw it to a 1∕2×2×5" piece of plywood with the
mitered tip flush with the end of the plywood.
Lower stretcher Drilling jig

hole locations
Stretcher
drilling jig Edges flush
Leg template blank
2" Test scrap
45° bevel
Transferring dowel-hole spacings from the leg template to the drilling-jig ensures Add tape 111 ∕16" from the tip of a 3∕8" bit. Then drill to the tape for stopped
the stretcher (B, C) dowel holes align with those in the legs. holes in the top leg stretchers (B) and lower leg stretchers (C).
blank into equal halves and label them for
reassembly. Set the saw blade 1∕2" high and cut
the outer edges of each mortise [Drawing 3, Photo
C]. Then remove the waste between the cuts.
2 Glue and clamp the stretcher (B, C)

halves [Photo D]. After the glue dries,
miter-cut the stretchers to length [Drawing 3],
drill dowel holes (see previous page) and C
drill centered dowel holes over each mortise.
3 Cut and sand radii on the stretcher (B, C) 1×1" scrap

alignment block
ends [Drawing 3]. Rout round-overs and
finish-sand.
4 Cut 16 dowels 13∕8" long. After a dry test-

assembly, glue and clamp the stretchers
(B, C) to the legs (A) using the dowels [Draw-
ing 2, Photo E].
5 Cut the cross stretchers (D, E) 1∕32" over-

length. Cut the tenons 1∕64" longer than
shown [Drawing 4]. Round over the edges and
finish-sand.
6 Glue and clamp the cross stretchers (D,

E) to the leg stretchers (B, C) [Exploded
View]. After the glue dries, extend the 1∕4" D
holes 13∕8" deep and drive dowels to reinforce Align the halves of each stretcher with a waxed 1×1" scrap to make the mortise
the joints. Sand the dowels and tenons flush. walls flush.
woodmagazine.com 59
A B
Clamping block
A
Clamping block
E
Place scrap boards beneath the stretchers (B, C) to provide a flat clamping surface. Clamp the stretchers to
the legs (A) using just enough pressure to draw the parts together without damaging the corners of the legs.
5 SEAT
15¼"
Be seated
1 Edge-glue a 151∕2×151∕2" seat (F) blank. Cut
the seat to shape [Drawing 5], round over the
edges, and finish-sand.
2 Drill counterbores into the tops of the legs

[Drawing 2] and screw on figure-8 fasteners.
Center the leg assembly on the underside of
the seat (F) and screw the legs to the seat. 15¼"
3 Separate the seat from the leg assembly, F

apply three coats of clear finish, and reas-
semble. (We used a precatalyzed lacquer.)
Whether you park your finished stool in
front of a snack in the kitchen or your next
project in the shop, you’ve earned a break.
5/8"
1/8" round-overs
Cutting Diagram Materials List FINISHED SIZE

A A A A* legs 11∕4" 37∕8" 24" RO 4
1¼ x 5½ x 96" Red oak B* top leg stretcher 1" 11∕2" 111∕2"† RO 2

C* lower leg stretcher 1" 2" 14"† RO 2
A F F F E D* top cross stretcher 11∕4" 11∕4" 131∕4" RO 1
D
1¼ x 5½ x 96" Red oak E* lower cross stretchers 11∕4" 11∕4" 153∕4" RO 2
This project requires 1 board foot of F seat 11∕4" 151∕4" 151∕4" RO 1
B C 4/4 and 7 board feet of 5/4 red oak. *Initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
†Length before cutting end radii. See the instructions.
1 x 5½ x 48" Red oak Material key: RO–red oak.
Produced by Robert Wilson with
Kevin Boyle Supplies: 3∕8" dowel.
Project design: Kevin Boyle Bits: 1∕8" and 1∕16" round-over router bits; 3∕8" plug cutter.
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Source: Figure-8 fasteners, no. 21650, $5.49 (pack of eight with
Lorna Johnson screws), Rockler, 800-279-4441, rockler.com.
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Brush With Greatness
More than just a clump of furry fibers, matching the brush to the finish
can make your project shine.
W
hen choosing a brush to apply a finish to your project, it’s easy to become
overwhelmed by the choices. Diane Shattuck, a professional finisher with
decades of experience, provides these tips to help you choose the right brush.
Turn the page to find out what characteristics to look for in a brush to lay down the
best finish your project deserves.

It’s all about the bristles ish from wicking up into the ferrule (the
The bristles work by wicking up the finish metal band that binds the bristles to the
when dipped into the container. Use brushes handle), making the brush difficult to clean.
with finer bristles for applying thin-viscosity As you move the brush across the project,
finishes to facilitate the wicking action. the brush should release a nice, even film.
Diane recommends dipping the brush no Different types of finishes require different
more than 1⁄4" into the finish to keep the fin- types of bristles [Photos A–D, Sources].
NAT UR AL
European ox hair (Tools for Working
China bristle (Rockler, Wood, no. GT-SHEBRU.20, $64)
China bristle (Woodcraft, no. 23466, $25)
no. 153813, $12) Brown china bristle/ox
(Rockler, no. 17196, $30)
A
Natural bristles, as the name suggests, use hair from animals such as hogs, oxen, badgers, and others. Natural-bristle brushes work best with oil-based finishes and
shellac. Their fine bristles hold more finish to lay down a smoother film and are unaffected by the solvents in oil-based finishes.
SY N T HETIC
Artificial badger hair (Tools for Working
Polyester (Woodcraft, Wood, no. GT-WBBRU.2, $45) Nylon (Lee Valley,
no. 153816, $10) no. 33K5123, $8)
Polyester (Rockler,
no. 48890, $5
Synthetic nylon blend 2-pack)
(Rockler, no. 47490, $17)
B
Synthetic bristles are usually made from polyester, nylon, or a combination of both. Synthetic brushes work best with waterborne finishes that cause natural bristles
to lose their stiffness.
woodmagazine.com 63
H Y BR ID FOA M
Japanese varnish brush, Lee

Valley, no. 56Z9985, $12.50)
C D
Hybrid brushes incorporate both synthetic and natural bristles to bring the best Foam brushes come in varying degrees of quality. The better ones (left) have
features of each bristle type. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation on the denser foam and a high-quality glue securing the foam to the stiffener. A good
finish type. This brush features an angled handle for comfort. foam brush will stand up to either oil-based or waterborne finishes.
You can re-use foam brushes. Store them in an air-tight
plastic bag between uses. If the finish begins to harden,
throw away the brush and use a new one.
Brushes trimmed to a chisel shape Metal ferrule

at the tip provide a smoother flow of
finish from the brush.
Chisel shape
Dividers Epoxy
Invest in quality Anat omy of a Br ist le

Give your brushes Look for these three bristle characteristics
the care they deserve. in a good brush: a chisel shape for better Tapered bristles provide
woodmagazine.com/ flow of finish, tapered profile to hold more Tapered shape
more contact with the
brushcare finish, and flagged tips for a smoother brush surface being finished and
stroke. These result in a more even finish. hold more finish, allowing
When shopping for a brush, consider it an Flagged end for longer strokes covering
more area.
investment. Better brushes cost more but
pay off with better results and less frustra-
tion. A good-quality brush, well-cared for,
should last for years. Flagged tips create
the smoothest brush
Sources: stroke. Think of them
leevalley.com, 800-871-8158 as split ends on hair.
rockler.com, 800-279-4441 The additional surface
toolsforworkingwood.com, 800-426-4613 area retains more finish
woodcraft.com, 800-225-1153. and creates a smoother
stroke when laying down
the finish.
Produced by Randy Maxey
Illustration: Roxanne LeMoine

Articulated
Lathe
Tool
Holder
Keep turning tools at your fingertips
when you need them and tucked
away when you don’t.
N
o more losing turning tools under a
pile of shavings. Two supports cradle
both long and short tools. Lay out
your own most commonly used tools and
tweak the length and location of the sup-
ports to accommodate your collection.
Approximate
18¾" W × ADJ. D × 18¾" H
materials cost:
$45
Including
hardware
8
Turning
tools rest on
the platform
woodmagazine.com 65
Build the tool platform
1 Cut a 21∕2×91∕4" blank for the tool supports
(A). Lay out and drill the holes [Drawing 1];
then, rip the blank in half [Photo A].
2 Cut the back (B) to size. Glue the tool

supports (A) to the back, 1∕4" from the
edges [Exploded View].
3 Cut to size the trough bottom (C), ends

(D), dividers (E), and front (F).
4 Glue the trough bottom (C) to the back

(B) flush at the bottom. After the glue
dries, glue on the trough ends (D), then the A
dividers (E) [Exploded View, Photo B]. A
1 TOOL SUPPORTS
9¼"
A
2½"
A
1¼" 2¼" 1¼" holes

A
To get identical parts, account for the blade kerf when positioning the rip fence.
Subtract half the blade width from half of the blank width: 11∕4" minus 1∕16" in this
case, for a rip fence setting of 13∕16".
66
C
5 Glue the trough front (F) in place to com-

plete the tool platform.
Make the adjustable arm

1
2" spacer
Cut the arms (G), long and short coupler
components (H, I), and mounting plates E
(J) to size. Lay out and form the radii on the
ends of the arms and coupler components D
[Drawing 2, Exploded View]. Drill the holes in the 2" spacer
arms and long coupler components.
2 Glue the coupler components (H, I) into

a male and female assembly [Drawing 2].
After the glue dries, bevel-cut the back of the
female coupler. B
3 Glue and screw the mounting plates (J) to

the back of the couplers, centered
[Exploded View]. B
Cut a few 2" spacers to keep everything aligned as you glue in the dividers (E).
Final assembly
1 Screw the tool platform assembly (A–F)
to the mounting plate (J) of the female
the holder moves freely but stays in position
when released.
coupler (H/I), centered [Exploded View]. Orient
the coupler so the platform leans back when
mounted.
3 Mount the holder behind your lathe,
screwing into a stud, and fill with the
tools for your next turning project.
2 If you choose, lightly sand and apply a

finish to the parts. We used a spray-on
lacquer. Join the arms (G) and couplers
Produced by Zach Brown with Kevin Boyle
(H/I) using carriage bolts and lock nuts Project design: Kevin Boyle
[Exploded View]. Tighten the nuts enough that Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson
2 COUPLER ASSEMBLIES
15º
2" 45/8" 2½" 2"
1"
R=1"
H ¼" holes I
Waste I
H
H R=1" I
R=1"
FEMALE COUPLER MALE COUPLER
Materials List FINISHED SIZE

A tool supports 3∕4" 13∕16" 91∕4" Ply 2
B back 1∕ 2" 183∕4" 183∕4" Ply 1
C trough bottom 1∕ 2" 21∕2" 183∕4" Ply 1
D trough ends 1∕ 2" 2" 2" Ply 2
E dividers 1∕4" 2" 2" Ply 7
F trough front 1∕ 2" 2" 183∕4" Ply 1
G arms 3∕4" 2" 12" P 3
H long coupler components 3∕4" 2" 45∕8" P 3
I short coupler components 3∕4" 2" 21∕2" P 3
J mounting plates 3∕4" 2" 12" P 2
Materials key: P–pine, Ply–plywood.
Supplies: 1∕4×23∕4" carriage bolts (3), flat washers (3) and lock nuts (3), #8×13∕4"
flathead screws.
woodmagazine.com 67
Beat Blotching Get consistent stain color,
even on problem woods, by
following these simple tips.
S
taining a beautifully crafted piece can that lead to inconsistent absorption, which
give pause to even experienced wood- appears as blotching [Photo A].
workers because we fear the finish
may come out blotchy. But knowing a bit Sanding and sealing secrets
about how stain works, and how to control I recommend three methods to beat blotch-
it, wipes away all the worry. ing: using a conditioner, a shellac seal-coat,
or applying gel stain. Experiment with each
What gives stain color to see which gives the results you want. You
by Jim Heavey In stain, pigment particles carry the color. may find you prefer different solutions for Tip! On solid wood,
Variations in the wood density and porosity different wood species. In the samples on reduce the tendency of
affect how many particles adhere to the work- the next page, I chose birch-veneer plywood end grain to absorb
piece. Staining oak, for example, creates a to show how the stain looks by itself, and more stain than the
distinct grain definition, with more pigment when applied with conditioner or shellac as faces by sanding the
lodging in the porous earlywood and less in a sealer. end grain two grits finer
Pine also contains the dense latewood. By contrast, pine, maple, Wood conditioner is simply stain without than the face.
resins that inhibit and birch have variations of density and pigment [Photo B]. After wiping away excess
pigment absorption. porosity within the earlywood and latewood conditioner, apply stain immediately for a
Blotching
A B
Stain alone shows blotching. Dark and light coloring occurs randomly, obscuring Apply wood conditioner by flooding the surface and adding more as needed to
some areas of the grain while leaving others lightly stained. maintain a wet surface for 20 minutes. Then, wipe off any excess.
C D
The most porous areas absorb more wood conditioner, limiting the ability of those A coat of shellac works similar to wood conditioner, but it seals the wood
areas to absorb pigment later. Denser areas absorb less conditioner. This creates a surface. The stain rests on top of the shellac, providing even color. A second coat
more uniform distribution of pigment across the board when applying stain. of stain, after the first coat dries, will darken the color.
E F
Wipe on gel stain, allow it to sit for a few minutes, then wipe away excess. In Gel stain provides a deep color similar to stain alone, but allows you to work
blotchy areas, wipe further with a clean cloth to even out the color. areas to remove excess color providing a more even tone.
near blotch-free surface, but with a lighter excess from areas that show blotching and to The color of a
color [Photo C]. To darken the color, apply a let it sit longer on lighter areas [Photo F]. particular board affects
second coat of stain after the first has dried. To ease your mind before staining any the look of a stain. Red
No additional conditioner is needed. wood, start with a sample board. As you build, oak can have red, tan,
Shellac works in the same manner. Simply glue up project scraps to provide a representa- or even brown hues, so
brush on the shellac and allow it to dry tive sample board. Include plywood and the same stain looks
before staining [Photo D]. This happens hardwood, if you used both, so that the effect different on each of
quickly, so you can begin staining sooner. of conditioning, staining, and finishing will those colors. Select
Gel stain suspends pigments in a creamy be apparent on both materials. Mastering boards of a similar
carrier [Photo E]. The heavy viscosity slows staining problems isn’t hard, and if you follow tone to create a more
penetration, allowing you to wipe away these tips it will be much easier. consistent look.
woodmagazine.com 69
Curving-Corbel
Wall Shelves The shelves display your stuff.
The graceful brackets display your skills.
H
idden hardware flush-mounts these
shelves, simplifies installation, and
frees you from centering corbels
over wall studs. At nearly 5' long, the “short” Approximate
80" W × 8" D × 77∕8" H
version of this shelf doesn’t skimp on space. materials cost:
$40
But if you need to showcase a large collec-
tion, build the 80" version that features an
additional support bracket. You can build for one
either one in an evening. large shelf
Size
shelves to
fit your
storage
needs.

EXPLODED VIEW
#8 x 1¼" F.H. screw 3/8" dowel ¼" long
8"
57½"
¾" fillet
with a 1/16" shoulder 1¼" fine-thread E
pocket- hole screw
3/8" hole
¼" deep with a
5/32" countersunk
63/8" 55½" 5/8" hole shank hole
A 5/16" deep centered inside
C
D
51/8" 5/8" keyhole-
2" slot plug
C
#16 x ¾" brad B D
¾" fillet
21" B
Start with supports 4½"

Tip! Space the keyhole
slot plugs 16" apart to
drive mounting screws
1 Cut the wall cleat (A) to size [Materials List],
radiusing the ends as shown in Drawing 1
and sand smooth. Drill counterbores for the
into wall studs.
Tip! Avoid burning and

keyhole-slot plugs [Sources], and finish-sand.
2 Cut the wall and shelf supports (B, C) to

size and rout the fillet on one end of each
3 Drill pocket holes in the supports (B, C)
and glue them to the cleat [Photo A]. After
the glue dries, reinforce the joints with
tear-out when routing piece [Exploded View]. pocket-hole screws and finish-sand.
end grain by taking two
passes, with the final
pass taking off just 1∕64".
Hang without hang-ups

Keyhole-slot plugs let you hang shelves
and frames flush with a wall without the C
mortising required for keyhole hangers.
B
Simply drill a 5∕8" hole 5∕16" deep. Apply
epoxy to the walls of the plug and tap it
into the hole with the flared openings in
the plugs at the bottom. A
A
Gluing the supports (B, C) to the wall cleat (A) holds them in place while driving
the pocket-hole screws.
woodmagazine.com 71
C D
D
A
Stopblock
1∕8" inset B
3∕4" fillet
B C
Miter-cut one end of each bracket (D) blank, then use a stopblock to make the Glue the bracket (D) centered on both supports (B, C), leaving 1∕8" insets along
second 45° cut for consistent part lengths. the edges that complement the fillet shoulders.
2 BRACKET PATTERN
5/16"
D 3∕4" round-over
E
R=5¾"
R=53/16"
19/16"
D
5/16" Clamp the shelf (E) with the end flush with the edge of a plywood panel. Use the
plywood to guide a round-over bit bearing as you rout the ends.
4 Cut a 1¼×2¼×9" blank for each bracket

(D). Lay out the bracket [Drawing 2] on
each blank and miter-cut the flat sections on 4 Epoxy the keyhole-slot plugs in the wall
cleat (A) and allow the adhesive to cure
a tablesaw [Photo B]. Square the ends, band- fully. Drive flathead mounting screws in the
saw the curves, and finish-sand. wall, using wall anchors as needed, and
5 Glue a bracket (D) to the supports (B, C)

[Exploded View, Photo C]. Drive reinforcing
brads and repeat for the remaining brackets.
hang the shelf. Then round up those collect-
ibles you’ve been waiting to show off and
arrange them on your new shelf.
Make a top-shelf shelf top

1 Cut the shelf (E) to size and, in the same
manner as the wall and shelf supports,
round over and fillet the ends and front edge
Materials List
Part T
FINISHED SIZE
W L Matl. Qty.
[Exploded View, Photo D]. A wall cleat 3∕4" 2" 551∕2"/78" P 1
2 Clamp the shelf (E) centered on the wall

cleat (A) and mark the centers of the shelf
supports (C). Drill holes in the shelf at each
B
C
wall support
shelf support
3∕4"
3∕4"
11∕2"
11∕2"
51∕8"
63∕8"
P
P
4†
4†
D * bracket 11∕4" 21∕8" 713∕16" P 4†
location [Exploded View]. Apply two coats of 3∕4"
E shelf 8" 571∕2"/80" P 1
Antique Mahogany dye [Sources] to the shelf,
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
sanding lightly between coats. Then apply a †Enough for one long shelf. Cut three parts for a short shelf.
coat of Varathane Kona wood stain. Materials key: P–poplar.
3 Screw the shelf (E) to the shelf supports

(C). Plug the screw holes using dowels,
then cut and sand the dowels flush and
Supplies: 3∕8" dowel, single-hole keyhole hangers (2), 11∕4" fine-thread
pocket screws, #8×11∕4" flathead screws, #16×3∕4" brads.
Bits: 3∕4" round-over router bit; 5∕8" Forstner bit. Produced by Robert Wilson with
Sources: Keyhole-slot plugs (2) no. 05H0301, $2.90 each, Lee Valley,
touch up the plugs to match the finish. 800-871-8158, leevalley.com.
Kevin Boyle
Project design: Kevin Boyle
Apply three coats of a spray lacquer to the W.D. Lockwood water-soluble wood dye, Antique Mahogany no. 40, $7.59, Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine,
assembled shelf. Tools for Working Wood, 800-426-4613, toolsforworkingwood.com. Lorna Johnson

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TOOLS & MATERIALS
SHOP-TESTED
Let The Good Times Scroll

Nothing beats the thin blade and reciprocat-
ing action of a scrollsaw for making intricate
cuts in wood and sheet goods. We tasked
professional scroller Jenny Boles with testing
several popular models. Each has enough
variable-speed power to cut
easily through 1"-thick
hardwoods, as well as a
table that tilts to 45° left and
right, a built-in blower to
keep the cutline clear, and
accepts plain-end (pinless)
blades.
Jet 22", no. JWSS-22B, $900

Overall grade: A
This saw runs smoothly with little to no vibration, even at the highest speeds and in the
thickest woods. It has the best blade-changing and -tensioning systems, a beefy cast-iron
table, and adjustments for cutting aggressiveness and blade tensioning that give it an edge
over the other saws. The upper arm raises 10"—the highest of all the saws—making it easier Jet 18", no. JWSS-18B, $700
to fit a workpiece over the blade for interior cutouts. For beveled cuts, I like that the arms tilt Overall grade: A–
rather than the table. I found the dust-collection port to be efficient with a shop vacuum, and For about $200 less, you get most of the fea-
the leveling feet and rubber washers effectively reduced vibration. And it’s the only saw I tures of the Jet JWSS-22B, but with a smaller
tested that comes with a foot-pedal power switch. steel table. The dust port needs to be
800-274-6848, jettools.com removed to make left-tilting bevel cuts.
Excalibur 21", no. EX-21K, $900 DeWalt 20", no. DW788, $500 Delta 20", no. 40-694, $375
Overall grade: A– Overall grade: B– Overall grade: B–
For interior cuts, I like that I can leave the This saw cut smoothly with almost no vibra- All of the major controls rest within easy
blade in either the top or bottom arm when tion, but I found it more aggressive than the reach at the front of the saw, and I like hav-
making interior cutouts. (Top-mounted is other saws, which can make delicate or ing quick access to the on/off switch and to
better for large workpieces.) Despite leveling intricate work more challenging. The upper speed and tension adjustments. At the lower
feet and rubber mounting washers, the saw arm does not stay in place when lifted for and higher speeds, I felt only a little vibra-
vibrated slightly more than the others at blade changes or interior cuts, making it tion; however, there was a noticeable amount
high speed. When tilting the arms for left- more difficult to change blades. in the midrange.
bevel cuts, the dust port must be removed. 800-433-9258, dewalt.com 800-223-7278, deltamachinery.com
888-664-0449, excaliburpowertool.com
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
SHOP-TESTED
Amp up accuracy with this miter gauge and fence

Precision miter gauge, no. 53310, $100; accessory fence, no. 61967, $50
I judge a miter gauge by one crucial per-

formance characteristic: accuracy. And
Rockler’s Precision Miter Gauge delivers
exactly that. With detents at 0° plus left
and right at 15°, 221⁄2°, 30°, 45°, and 60°, I
found this miter gauge helped me make
precise miters and crosscuts. And the
easy-to-read scale and hairline cursor
make it easy to cut at any angle between
stops. The miter bar includes adjusters
to control the fit in a miter slot.
Although the Precison Miter Gauge
doesn’t come with a fence, it includes
two T-bolts for attaching an auxiliary
fence. So, I added Rockler’s accessory
fence. I like its rigid aluminum extru-
sion, with T-slots for attaching the
included MDF face and a flip stop. Its
telescoping extension lets you cut up to
221⁄2" with the flip stop, but the fence
lacks a measuring rule, so I had to mea-
sure each cut with a rule or tape measure.
—Tested by Bob Hunter, Tools Editor
800-279-4441, rockler.com
Durable gear works great for working women

As a woman with two decades of building custom woodworking
projects, I can attest that finding durable workwear that fits well can
be challenging. But Dovetail Workwear has exactly what I’ve been
searching for. Over the past half-year, I’ve tried out several pants,
shirts, and gloves, and I’m sold.
My favorite pants are the Day Construct and Britt Utility Natural,
shown right ($89 each). Both are made of stretchable canvas that
conformed to my body nicely because of the give in the fabric. The
more I wore them, the softer they got, which actually improved the
fit, especially while bending and kneeling. Both styles have multiple
pockets, including some on the legs, making it easy to reach tools
when needed. That proved invaluable when I crawled into a tight
attic space to replace a vent fan; all of the tools stayed secure in my
pockets. I also wore these pants when chainsawing firewood for my
shop stove, and they held up to the briars, coarse tree bark, and the
inevitable dirt and grime that come with that job.
The sizing can seem a little awkward: I needed to order pants two
sizes larger than I buy in everyday clothes. I suggest talking with a
company representative to discuss sizes.
The Multipurpose Work Gloves ($25) fit perfectly and have a nice
amount of stretch across the back of the hand, which made for a com-
fortable, firm fit. The padded palm stands up to heavy work to protect
your hands. They’re light in feel and have a wide hook-and-loop closure
at the wrist that prevents dirt and debris from getting inside.
—Tested by Ruth Rizer
503-404-4533, dovetailworkwear.com

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TOOLS & MATERIALS
NEW AND UNTESTED
Infinity Tools debuts benchtop router table

No. PRTS-100, $300
Made of Baltic-birch plywood with a laminate top, this
router table measures 151∕4" deep, 231∕4" wide, and
17" tall. The top has two parallel T-tracks for the
included fence and another across the front for
accessories and jigs; the fence offers independent
sliding faces and another accessory T-track. You also
get a 21∕2" dust port for the fence and a 21∕2" tee
(including clamps and hose) for dust collection below
the table. The 3∕8"-thick, 6"-diameter plastic insert
comes predrilled to fit most compact and trim routers
(11∕4 hp or less).
877-872-2487, infinitytools.com
Grex launches battery-powered 21-gauge nailer

no. GCH850, $499
The third nailer in Grex’s hose-free, battery-powered series of nailers, the GCH850
fires semi-headless 21-gauge fasteners 3∕8"–2" long. A pair of AAA alkaline
batteries power this nailer, in conjunction with a disposable fuel cartridge. (Fuel
cartridges sell in a four-pack for $25.) Grex says the GCH850 will fire 1,300
fasteners per fuel cell and up to 50,000 per set of batteries.
888-447-3926, grexusa.com

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Yacht Rock game
Arts & Crafts settee
be reaching for the air supply.

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Serving tray
Stickley-style seating firmly in the first rank of handcrafted furniture.
Bent-laminated arms plus traditional mortise-and-tenon joinery place this
ribbons of contrasting woods.

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final step with these

WHAT’S AHEAD
bud vase
contrasting
highlight the
in the cutouts.
wood exposed
Tapered triplet
Veneered faces
A GLIMPSE INSIDE THE DECEMBER/JANUARY ISSUE (ON SALE NOVEMBER 13)
might imagine.
compact form than you
circular saws pack more
Today’s battery-powered
power and runtime into a

Shop Test: Cordless cutters
Better Homes & Gardens® WOOD® magazine (ISSN-0743-894X); November 2020, Volume 37, No. 6, is published 7 times a year in March, May, July, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec/Jan by Meredith Corporation, 1716 Locust Street, Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines, IA, and at additional mailing offices. Subscription prices: $29.99 per
year in the U.S.; $44.99 (U.S. dollars) in Canada; $49.99 (U.S. dollars) overseas. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to Better Homes & Gardens WOOD,
PO Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508. In Canada: mailed under Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40069223; Canadian BN 12348 2887 RT. © Meredith Corporation 2020. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.

WOOD Magazine 271 - Noviembre 2020

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TAKING MEASURE Better Homes & Gardens¨

EDITORIAL CONTENT CHIEF DAVE CAMPBELL

NOV EMBER 2020 • IS SUE 271

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

2 WOOD magazine November 2020

Used as an accent, the bright

The whitest known wood, holly is prized as

Aromatic eastern red cedar has a near-

4 WOOD magazine November 2020

60º Heavy-duty, ball bearing tailstock

Vary speeds from

Sturdy cast iron base

Designed for easy,

More Power! More Features! More Fun!

Our customers love their Turncrafter Lathes!

10” Swing Variable Speed 12” Swing Variable Speed

Staples 21 x 40" 10-oz

8 continued on page 10 WOOD magazine November 2020

Miter Gauge Fence (61967) $49.99

Precision Miter Gauge

FREE SHIPPING OVER 39

FOR EMAIL SUBSCRIBERS. Sign up at rockler.com/email

Shuffling off this mortal coil

A berry nice project mashup

10 continued on page 12 WOOD magazine November 2020

INTRODUCING MIRRORCAST AND RIVERCAST FROM

For more than 20 years, Henry Setzekorn, of Nashville, Ill.,

12 continued on page 14 WOOD magazine November 2020

Shown as completed knife.

For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store,

When Tim Clark, of West Liberty, Iowa,

To enclose the cremains of

Send us a photo of your work

14 WOOD magazine November 2020

A shop-made cabinet supports a cast-iron router table. A removable top outfitted

below for when he works on large projects in

Peachtree Micro Fence System Three ChipsFly.com Castle

Woodpeckers Castle ChipsFly.com McFeely’s

Enter daily October 1-31 at woodmagazine.com/daily2020

Having tired of dust-covered tools, Buck made

The CASTLE 110 is a great way to

Many Inlays to Choose Brass–Copper–Aluminum

Create totally tubular custom

Learn more about

For sending this issue’s Top Shop Tip, Don receives an

22 WOOD magazine November 2020

Scrap block twice as wide as rise

Flex and hold when drawing curves

Play the slots for easy

Finishing aid gets to the point(s)

24 WOOD magazine November 2020

Brush up on sander grooming

Brighten dark areas with portable lighting

26 WOOD magazine November 2020

Prepare the panels

3 Glue up the top/front/bottom blank

4 Glue the edge trim (D) blanks to the

5 Cut two 3∕8×21∕4×16" side panel (E) blanks,

Rout the joints 2 Cut the rectangular opening in the case

1 Using a 45° chamfer bit at the router

3 Using a shop-made circle-cutting jig,

cutout piece for use as the clock face (H).

2 Glue the dividers in place inside the clock

3 Cut and bevel the hanging cleats (K).