How To Repair Big Holes in GRP Boats

24/04/2021 How to repair big holes in GRP boats - Practical Boat Owner
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How to repair big holes in GRP boats

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April 12, 2016
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It doesn’t matter how experienced a boater you are, there is no accounting for
the completely unexpected – and you don’t need to be at sea for something to
happen to your boat.
An unfortunate few have seen their pride and joy dropped from a travel-hoist,
gutted by re, or even thrown across a motorway. But even the most hideous
wounds and big holes in GRP can be repaired – given time, money and a skilled
workforce.
A competent DIY enthusiast could also obtain a smashed-up wreck for peanuts
and make a perfectly sound and seaworthy vessel from the mess – which
happens all the time in America in the wake of a hurricane.
Worth xing?
The big question any owner (or more likely their insurers) has to ask is, ‘Is it
worth xing?’
Once your boat has been damaged, your rst priority is to ring your insurers,
explain the situation and ask for a claim form. If they decide the damage is
likely to be above a certain oor price (usually around £1,500) they will appoint
a surveyor who will assess the full extent of the damage and give a ballpark
gure for repairs. While spectacular damage is pretty obvious, it is also the
hidden damage that the surveyor will be looking for.
Depending on the policy, the insurers will then ask for three quotes from
recognised repairers.
‘This is where the owner often forgets his rights,’ says Mark Goodacre,
managing director of Goodacre Boat Repairs at Port Solent in
Hampshire.
‘The insurers will recommend a repair specialist, but the owner may
decide he prefers another, even though it’s more expensive. You’re not
obliged to go with the insurer’s choice – most companies will allow
some monetary discrepancy, providing you are convinced you’ll get a
better job. Push hard to get your preferred repairer.
‘Remember, it’s your boat, and your choice, not the insurer’s.’
Once the repairer has been selected and the price agreed, the contract is then
drawn up between the owner and the repairer, and not the insurer – another
reason why the owner has to be completely happy that his boat is in the right
hands.
‘Talk with the repairer, and ask how many other boats of a similar type
they have handled,’ Mark suggests. ‘You’ll soon be able to assess if they
know what they are doing.’
Sometimes, however, a boat is just too badly damaged – or too inaccessible – to

be economically repaired, so the owner is paid the insured value, and the
remains sold o to anyone who will pay to take it away. We saw a damaged 30ft
(9.1m) ketch in the Channel Islands with a large gash in its side which was
eventually sold for £100. It was broken up, and the spars, winches and other
gear sold for a pro t. This was a shame because it could have been repaired and
spent many more years as someone’s pride and joy.
Fixing the un xable

To nd out just how a big job is tackled, we looked at a couple of case histories
at Goodacre Boat Repairs to see how they carry out major repair jobs. The
Hampshire-based yard specialises in repairing the most horrendous damage,
and to a standard where the vessel is not only as strong – or stronger – than it
was before, but where repairs are completely invisible.
Buyer beware
Aaron Logan, a freelance GRP specialist, showed us a yacht that had been T-
boned by another. The boat seemed ne apart from a small hole in the side,
which the owner had patched with a dollop of plastic padding.
It was only inside that we saw the true extent of the impact. The collision had
compressed the hull and, while it had appeared to pop back into shape, the
main bulkhead had been badly damaged.
Worse still, the hole was beneath an inner lining, so major surgery was needed
to open up the boat to x it. What initially appeared to be an innocuous little
knock would run up a repair bill of a couple of thousand pounds.
Advice from the surveyor: When is a boat a write-o ?

The point at which a damaged boat becomes a write-o depends largely
on the value of the boat and the estimated costs of repair. As those costs
approach 80% of its insured value, insurers will be thinking more and
more about declaring the vessel a ‘constructive total loss’ (CTL).
Their nervousness arises from experience. It’s not uncommon for repair
costs to escalate once work begins – often because cutting away
splintered structure brings to light damage that wasn’t visible at the
outset. Better by far, argue the insurers, to pay up for the whole boat –
the absolute limit of their liability – rather than have repair charges
spiral to an even greater sum.
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The practical implications are clear. Bash a hole in a large expensive boat
and it’s very likely to be repaired, whereas a similar hole in an older
vessel might see it declared a CTL. Note that this doesn’t mean that the
damage is irreparable – simply that the insurers think that the CTL
route is a less risky option for them.
Geography also plays its part. Repair facilities are much scarcer and less
dependable in some areas than others. When hurricane Ivan rampaged
through Grenada in 2004 at least one insurer decided to ship boats all
the way back to Europe for repair – not just to save money, but more to
have them under the sort of local supervision they were familiar and
comfortable with. Those shipping costs would have been yet another
factor in deciding whether a boat should be repaired or written o .
Andrew Simpson
Moulding from a sister ship

Taking mouldings from an identical boat is a good way to repair hull damage, or
to simply match a damaged item, but it does require a willing owner for the
donor boat. You may have to remove some transfers or decals to get a
completely smooth original hull.
Step 1: assessing the damage
Step 2: Remove bunks and chop out damage back to sound laminate
Step 3: On the sister ship, thoroughly clean the area you want to mould from (ideally with
soft soap followed by an acetone wipe) and then mask o . You then polish the area to make
it as shiny as possible before applying three layers of release wax. Leave each layer for an
hour before polishing it to a shine.
With all three wax layers added, you can now brush on two layers of gel coat, leaving
each to cure to tackiness. The gel is then followed by some chopped strand mat, with foam
or wood sti eners bonded in for strength. Brace the whole thing so its weight won’t allow
it to fall from the hull.
With all three wax layers added, you can now brush on two layers of gel coat, leaving each
to cure to tackiness. The gel is then followed by some chopped strand mat, with foam or
wood sti eners bonded in for strength. Brace the whole thing so its weight won’t allow it to
fall from the hull.
Step 4: Remove the mould, trim it, and then polish the inside with three layers of release
wax ready to t against the hull of your own boat.
Remove the mould, trim it, and then polish the inside with three layers of release wax
ready to t against the hull of your own boat.
Step 4: Put the mould in place and lay up from inside
Step 4: Put the mould in place and lay up from inside
Step 5: Colour match gel coat and replace interior ttings
Step 5: Colour match gel coat and replace interior ttings
Moulding from ‘made good’

This method can work well if your boat is damaged but the a ected area is still
more or less intact. The technique requires using ller to patch up and ‘make
good’ the damage, and then sanding back so the shape is as close to original as
possible.
Next polish up the ‘made good’ area with three layers of release wax and take
your casting – just as you would if taking a mould from a sister ship, as
described above.
With the mould cured and removed, you can then cut out the temporary repair
and the damaged area back to sound material. It’s then a case of rebuilding that
section of hull using your newly-made mould.
Damage made good with ller – not a strong permanent repair, but smooth enough to
take a mould from
Damage made good with ller – not a strong permanent repair, but smooth enough to take
a mould from
Take a mould from the ‘made good area’. Then chop out the damage and rebuild from
the mould as in steps 4 and 5 (above)
Take a mould from the ‘made good area’. Then chop out the damage and rebuild from the
mould as in steps 4 and 5 (above)
Case History 1: Using an existing mould

This new Windy 906 sports cruiser was being transported down a German
autobahn when the lorry it was on jack-knifed. The boat was dumped onto the
road where it was then struck by another vehicle. Despite major damage to the
transom, which also involved the wrecking of one of the outdrives, the insurers
decided it was repairable.
‘With a new boat, it is often possible to ask the builders if they can send you a
section of mould,’ Mark Goodacre explained. ‘This can sometimes take a while,
as the mould will be in use all the time making new boats, but you might be able
to nd a gap in production where the builder will mould just the section you
want. From that, you can then make a female mould – which is exactly what we
did here.’
1 The worst of the damage was to the port quarter, where the transom had been
completely opened up.
1 The worst of the damage was to the port quarter, where the transom had been completely
opened up.
2 During a gap in production the Windy factory was able to supply a cast from the mould,
from which this female mould was made.
2 During a gap in production the Windy factory was able to supply a cast from the mould,
from which this female mould was made.
3 Once the damage has been cut back beyond the stress cracking, and the exposed edges
tapered, the moulds are carefully eased into place and then rmly held with batons and
clamps.
3 Once the damage has been cut back beyond the stress cracking, and the exposed edges
tapered, the moulds are carefully eased into place and then rmly held with battens and
clamps.
4 White gel coat is carefully colour-matched then applied from the inside of the boat,
followed by layers of chopped strand mat to build up the thickness of the hull again.
Stringers and other strengthening are also replaced. Once the moulds are released, nal
colour matching takes place with a nishing coat, applied from the outside.
4 White gel coat is carefully colour-matched then applied from the inside of the boat,
followed by layers of chopped strand mat to build up the thickness of the hull again.
Stringers and other strengthening are also replaced. Once the moulds are released, nal
colour matching takes place with a nishing coat, applied from the outside.
5 With the rebuilt hull fully cured, all the deck hardware and engineering can then start
to be replaced.
5 With the rebuilt hull fully cured, all the deck hardware and engineering can then start to
be replaced.
Case History 2: Making a temporary mould

It may not always be possible to obtain a mould from the factory, or it may be
just too expensive, so another option is to make a temporary mould with ‘white
faced’ Melamine-type hardboard. There is more work involved in the nal
stages of the nish, as the moulding will be cruder, but there are savings to be
made.
1 When this Jeanneau was struck by another yacht during a race, the damage seemed
relatively light. However, once craned ashore, it was found that the hull had stress cracks
from the toerail right down to below the waterline. Inside, the main saloon bulkhead had
been shattered.
1 When this Jeanneau was struck by another yacht during a race, the damage seemed
relatively light. However, once craned ashore, it was found that the hull had stress cracks
from the toerail right down to below the waterline.
Inside, the main saloon bulkhead had been shattered.
Inside, the main saloon bulkhead had been shattered.
2The rst job is to cut away all the damage to beyond the last of the stress cracks. A ne
soot is used to trace where the hairline cracks nally end. Note how all the antifouling has
been stripped for some distance each side of the damage. To get to the hull, much of the
internal furniture in this section had to be disassembled.
2: The rst job is to cut away all the damage to beyond the last of the stress cracks. A ne
soot is used to trace where the hairline cracks nally end. Note how all the antifouling has
been stripped for some distance each side of the damage. To get to the hull, much of the
internal furniture in this section had to be disassembled.
3With the insides of the cut-marks tapered, sheets of Melamine hardboard are now used
to recreate the hull shape. This is fairly quick, but will it be quite labour-intensive when it
comes to atting back the gel coat that has been laid up against it from the inside.
3: With the insides of the cut-marks tapered, sheets of Melamine hardboard are now used
to recreate the hull shape. This is fairly quick, but will it be quite labour-intensive when it
comes to atting back the gel coat that has been laid up against it from the inside.
4: Colour-matched white gel coat, built up behind with chopped strand mat, has been
used on the repair. Once the mould has been removed, additional layers of colour-matched
gel coat will be applied from the outside. These will be repeatedly applied and sanded back
until the whole hull is fair.
4: Colour-matched white gel coat, built up behind with chopped strand mat, has been used
on the repair. Once the mould has been removed, additional layers of colour-matched gel
coat will be applied from the outside. These will be repeatedly applied and sanded back
until the whole hull is fair.
5The nished job, complete with a fresh coat of antifouling, original-spec decals and a
new toerail. From start to nish this job took about a month and cost £15,000.
5: The nished job, complete with a fresh coat of antifouling, original-spec decals and a
new toerail. From start to nish this job took about a month and cost £15,000.
Conclusion
These are some of the basic methods for repairing a hull, and from looking
through the Goodacre photo album it seems that even the most badly damaged
hulls can be restored. Let’s face it, you can’t exactly devalue a hull that has an
enormous hole in its side, but the potential to repair and make it even stronger
than the original is always there.
I remember many years ago covering the story of a Fairline 36 Turbo that had
been gutted by re. The DIY owner turned her into a highly functional workboat
that is still doing sterling service today. The entire superstructure had been cast
from a disposable mould made from Melamine hardboard.
So, if a large hole appears in your boat, don’t despair! If your insurance
company is willing, it can be repaired as if it never happened. And if you fancy a
worthwhile project, just keep an eye on the hurricane season in the United
States. You really could pick up a bargain.
Our thanks to Mark, Barry and the team at Goodacre Boat Repairs of Port Solent.
The company has been specialising in high-quality repairs since 1990, and its
experienced technicians are often contracted by insurance companies to y out
to hurricane zones to repair damaged yachts in situ. The rm is currently
working on the restoration of two America’s Cup boats, and also o er a full re t
and customisation service for both power and sail.
Goodacre Boat Repairs, The Boatshed, Port Solent, Portsmouth, Hants PO6 4TR.
Tel: 02392 210220, Goodacre Boat Repairs website (http://www.gys.co.uk)
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24/04/2021 How to repair big holes in GRP boats - Practical Boat Owner

TAGS: gelcoat (https://www.pbo.co.uk/tag/gelcoat)

Sometimes, however, a boat is just too badly damaged – or too inaccessible – to

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Moulding from a sister ship

Step 1: assessing the damage

Step 4: Put the mould in place and lay up from inside

Step 4: Put the mould in place and lay up from inside

Step 5: Colour match gel coat and replace interior ttings

Step 5: Colour match gel coat and replace interior ttings

Moulding from ‘made good’

Case History 1: Using an existing mould

Case History 2: Making a temporary mould

Inside, the main saloon bulkhead had been shattered.

Inside, the main saloon bulkhead had been shattered.

water pours from a void in the Keel and rudder repairs on

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