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Please note that much of this publication is based on personal experience and
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Use this information as you see fit, and at your own risk. Your particular situation may
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Copyright © 2012 www.skippertips.com All rights reserved worldwide.

2
 Table of Contents
How to Save and View this eBook Online

Introduction

1. Steer Your Boat Without a Rudder.

2. Take These Steps If You Go Aground.

3. How to Save Your Boat from Sinking.

4. Dock Your Boat with One Single Line.

5. Choose the #1 Most Vital Sailing Tool.

6. Seven Steps to Heavy Weather Control.

7. How to Anchor Downwind Under Sail.

8. Pass Ship-Killing Shoals Sans GPS.

9. Check Your Steering Compass Fast!

10. Keep Your Diesel Engine Running Like a Top!

11. Are You Ready to Enter That Marina?

3
 How to Save and View your eBook

Save your new eBook to a file on your computer. Click on the disk icon (circled in
yellow) on the upper left side of the tool bar. Save the eBook to your computer in your
“My Documents” folder. You can rename the file anything you wish…

Open the eBook on your computer. View it right away, or if you prefer, you can view the
eBook in a two page “book-like” layout. Here’s how: Click on “View” on the top toolbar.
Scroll down to “Page Display” (blue highlight). Then click on “Two-Up Continuous”.

4
 Introduction
How would you like to have a single reference guide at your fingertips that contains just
the most popular sailing articles over the past three years.

One place where you could find all of that information back-to-back. No hunting,
searching, or frustration.

Compiled from the most popular articles over the past three years of the Sailing Tips
Newsletter, you need look no further to find all you need right here in this exclusive,
1st edition eBook, where you will discover how to:

 Sail your boat in case you lost use of your wheel or tiller.
 Use a small, super accurate navigation device to check your steering compass.
 Pass "ship-killing" shoals smooth and easy--without your GPS!
 Rig your boat for heavy weather to keep balanced and comfortable.
 Choose the most vital sailing tool on earth that could save your life one day.
 Dock your boat like a pro in any wind or current--with confidence.
 Pull your boat off a shoal when you go aground.
 Repair a failed seacock with water flooding into your boat.
 Add years of life to your small sailboat auxiliary engine.
 Master the art of how to set any anchor under sail alone.
 Prepare your boat to enter and dock at any marina in the world.
 all this and much, much more…

Make that all important first step to turn your cruising dreams a reality! You can do it and
this guide will show you how to get started. Enjoy the read!

John Jamieson
Vero Beach, Florida

5
Steer Your Boat Without a Rudder
My sailing students were speechless;
stunned at what they were seeing
before their eyes...

We had gotten underway on a perfect

sailing day with a perfect 12 knot
breeze.

Sunlight sparkled atop the wavelets

like diamonds dancing in daylight.

We had hoisted the main and Genoa

and began sailing--without anyone at
the wheel...Incredible?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Olympian Steve Colgate tells a story Are you prepared to sail your boat with a wheel or tiller
that doesn't work. You can do this with just your sails
about a race across the Atlantic ocean alone. Practice this vital skipper skill this coming sailing
on a large sailing sloop. season!

The rudder was damaged when they were still more than 1000 nautical miles from the
closest harbor.

There they were, stuck out in the ocean with no rudder, and no spare parts to replace it.
They steered their boat the rest of the way--with just the mainsail and Genoa!

They were able to sail an accurate course day and night for more than a week all the
way in safety to their destination. If they can do it--so can you! Follow these steps to
learn one of sailing's best kept secrets.

Use balance to sail without a rudder

You can sail in a straight line without a rudder by keeping one sail full and allowing the
other sail to flutter (luff). The wind's giant hand will press more on the fuller of the two
sails.

To sail closer to the wind, keep the mainsail fuller. To sail farther away from the wind,
keep the headsail fuller. In heavy weather, you could achieve this by reefing or furling
your sails. Follow these five easy steps to success.

1. Place the sailboat wheel in the center (amidships) and lock it in place. If you have a
sailboat tiller, lash it amidships so that it doesn't move.

6
2. Find an object in the distance to steer toward. Choose an object at least 45 degrees
off of the true wind direction.

3. Set the mainsail and headsail for that point of sail, just like you would if you still had
rudder response. You will change this in step 4, but this is a starting point.

4. Steer the boat straight. If you need to fall off the wind, sheet the headsail flat and
allow the mainsail to luff (flutter) a bit. If you need to head up toward the wind, sheet in
on the mainsail and allow the headsail to luff.

5. Experiment with these settings until you are able to hold a straight course toward the
object for three minutes or more.

Use these five to learn how to sail a boat better using the power of balance. Practice
maneuvers like this each time you sail to boost your sailing skipper skills sky high!

"To sail well is to have complete control over the sailboat at all times"
-- Steve Colgate from "Manual of Basic Sailing Theory"

7
Take These Steps If You Go Aground
If you cruise long enough you can expect to run
aground. Do you know what initial action you should
take right away as soon as this happens?

Follow these seven fast, easy steps the next time

your boat keel contacts the bottom.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Most groundings are more of an inconvenience than

an emergency.

Sure, there are times when going aground can be

an emergency, like being blown into a seawall in a
full gale, onto a lee shore in a storm, or crashing into
a coral reef in the middle of a black night.

In either case, your preparations and initial action

will determine the outcome. Force yourself to slow
down during the action-step process below. It's easy
to get caught up in the moment, but patience can
pay off in a big way.

Realize that boats can sink because the skipper forgot to check for damage before he
or she backed off the shoal.

Determine whether staying aground can make the most sea-sense. With a fractured or
holed hull, it's critical not to move the boat until you've repaired damage. Use the tide to
your advantage to float free once repairs are complete.

Make preparations now to deal with future groundings. Carry supplies that include
underwater patch kits, thin plywood that can be bent to the shape of the hull, wood
screws, nuts, and bolts. Go through a relaxed "what-to-do" drill ahead of time so that all
hands are familiar with these seven steps:

1. Know Your Bottom Type.

If under sail and beating, tack the boat with the headsail sheeted to get the bow around
fast. Use this tactic if you ground on a soft, forgiving bottom like soft mud. Haul down
your sails if you suspect that you have grounded on a hard bottom, like rocks, coral,
oyster beds, hard sand, or shells. The grounding may have fractured the hull, damaged
the keel, cracked the rudder, or bent the propeller and shaft.

8
Get the sails down to prevent the boat from being driven further onto the shoals. Do not-
-under any circumstance--attempt to back off of a hard shoal until you have checked the
boat for leaks or fractures that could cause the boat to sink or lose control. If under
power, stop the engine right away. Go to the next step.

2. Take a Sounding Off the Stern.

Sound the area near the stern from quarter to quarter. Use an extended boat hook,
spinnaker pole or long oar. You want to make sure you have enough water near the
stern to prevent rudder or propeller damage when you back off the shoal.

3. Check for Cracks or Leaks Below.

Check all areas below the waterline for damage or leaks. Inspect the rudder, bilges,
keel bolts, through hulls, inside cockpit lockers or compartments, and the engine stuffing
box. Make repairs before re-floating the hull. Continue these inspections for several
hours after you float free.

4. Heel the Boat with Crew Weight.

Send the crew to the forward part of the boat on the heeled side. Have them grab onto
shrouds or lean against the lifelines or rails. This lowers the bow to decrease draft. In
sticky mud or clay, have your crew shift their weight from side to side to rock the boat.
This helps break the suction with the bottom.

5. Test and Inspect Your Engine.

Push the start button. Look over the side. Make sure you have exhaust cooling water
flowing from the stern tube (the raw water seacock intake on the outside of the hull
could be blocked!).

Go below. Shine a light onto the visible part of the shaft. Concentrate on the part where
the shaft exits the hull and where the shaft meets the engine coupling (called a shaft
packing or packing gland).

Note if you feel more vibration than before. Shift the engine from Neutral to Reverse
gear to Neutral three or four times. Keep the engine engaged in each position for a few
seconds. Listen and feel for excessive vibration. If you note no vibration, rev the engine
slow in reverse as you heel the boat.

Do not leave the engine engaged for too long (this close to the bottom, you could suck
up a lot of silt through the intake; this can clog your raw-water strainer). Check the
bilges for leaks or damage again right after you float free. If unable to free the boat, go
to step 6.

9
6. Set a Marine Kedge Anchor.

Cast or row out a marine anchor as far upwind as possible. Once the boat breaks free,
you want her to swing with the wind to clear the shoal. Lead the anchor rode through a
large snatch block and back to a winch. Remove all slack and keep the line taut.

7. Combine Swell Timing with Winching.

In a swell, the boat will lift up a few inches; then slam down onto the bottom. Use this to
your advantage. As the boat rises on a swell, haul around on the anchor rode winch to
take in all slack. Keep the rode taut when the boat hits bottom again; then take in more
slack when she lifts up again.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Use these seven simple steps to help refloat your cruising boat in the fastest, smoothest
manner. Prepare your sailing crew ahead of time to deal with the unexpected the next
time it comes your way.

" Realize that boats can sink because the skipper forgot to check for
damage before he or she backed off the shoal."
-- Captain John Jamieson

10
How to Save Your Boat from Sinking
Do you have your "initial action" plan in place to
deal with the unexpected when it crosses your
path like a blown hose on a seacock or a fracture
in your hull?

Read this excerpt from the eBook "Sailing

Emergencies "Take-Action" Guide" to discover
some of the techniques you'll want to add to your
treasure-chest of knowledge for sailing safety.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

What initial "first line" action will you take if a hose

blows off the top of a seacock--and the handle
freezes in the open position?

Or all of a sudden you hear a thud in the middle

of the night--and water pours in from a crack in
your hull. Take action fast, be aggressive, and
use the materials you have aboard.

Install this #1 Flooding Tool First

The force of sea water flowing through a hole or fracture will be enormous. Imagine that
you turn on a garden hose full force. Now try to drive a wooden plug into the end of the
hose with just your hand.

Use a heavy hammer or mallet to drive plugs or patches (see below) into or over a hole
or fracture. The heavier the better. In the Coast Guard, we used sledge hammers in live
training exercises. Swing a sledge hammer in air--that's easy. Try that with water up to
your waist, and it's like slow motion. Heavier gets the job done fast.

Mount your hammer or mallet in an open area, accessible to the crew. Like a fire
extinguisher, your hammer must be easy to find day or night, in lighted or unlighted
situations--not buried in a sail locker or tool box.

Follow the illustrations and steps below to keep control of any emergency that involves
water intrusion into your boat:

11
How to Plug a Seacock

1. Practice prevention to avoid emergencies in the future. Exercise seacock handles

(move them from the open to closed position several times) at least once a month to
prevent corrosion (freezing in place).

Inspect seacock hoses for hardening or cracks. Install new hoses if you suspect
weakness or lack of integrity. Inspect and replace corroded or rusted hose clamps.

2. Attach a soft-wood, tapered plug to each seacock. Use soft rags over the point to
provide friction and fill cracks or gaps when you drive it in to the seacock tail-piece.

3. Monitor your repair to make sure water pressure doesn't blow the plug out. Keep a
hammer or mallet nearby in case you need to drive the plug in further. If necessary, use
the next illustration (see "How to Shore Up a Fractured Hull!" below) to strengthen your
plug repair further.

12
How to Shore Up a Fractured Hull

1. Make a "strong-back" over the hole. Any rigid or semi-rigid flat piece of material
makes a good strongback. For example: hatch boards, access covers beneath berth
cushions, spare plywood, a large clipboard.

Next, build a "strongback sandwich" (see illustration). Jam a cushion or pfd over the
hole. Place the strongback over the cushion. Put a second cushion or pfd on top of the
strongback.

2. Use a boat-hook, whisker-pole, or spinnaker-pole as a brace. Jam one end of the

brace into the top cushion over the strong-back.

3. Hold a second cushion or pfd against the opposite side bulkhead. Jam the other end
of your brace into this cushion.

Assign a crew to monitor the patch to make sure it holds. Boats flex and vibrate
underway, even in calm conditions--and that can cause your patch to shift. Water
pressure against the patch will be quite high. Add more braces for additional support.
Keep a heavy hammer or mallet close by to set your braces into position.

13
Captain John’s Sailing Tip:
Once you have the initial plug or strongback in place--keep it in place. Add
additional patch material or bracing on top of the initial repair if necessary. Think
of this like a wound dressing. You don't want to remove the original dressing, but
can always add more dressing on top.

" Be prepared mentally and in terms of equipment to take

immediate action at the first sign of water entering your boat."
-- Charles B. Husick from "Chapman Piloting and Seamanship"

14
Dock Your Boat with One Single Line!
Two multi-million dollar sport fishermen are docked flush against the fuel pier. The
dockmaster has told you to lie alongside in the narrow space between them. You will
have about a foot on each side once you dock.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Where do you aim on your approach and how can you bring your boat alongside under
complete control? Let the pros guide you with these easy steps...

All boats and ships, no matter their size, have a spot along each side called a "pivot
point". You can determine this point in an open area.

Hold the tiller all the way to one side, or turn the sailboat wheel hard over. Then, place
the shifter into forward propulsion at idle speed.

Project an imaginary line from a point located between the beam and bow to the center
of this turning circle. As you turn, notice that your pivot point stays lined up with the
center of the circle.

In most small cruising sailboats, the pivot point will be just forward of the beam. Use
your pivot point to fine tune your approach to a slip or pier.

When docking inside a slip, use your pivot point to know when to turn. You often need
to make a 90 degree turn to enter a slip from a narrow canal or channel. Line up your
pivot point with one of the outer pilings to make a perfect turn every time.

When docking alongside a pier or seawall between two boats, aim for a spot aft of the
forward boat, equal to about 1/3 of your overall length.

Be sure to include any projections like a bowsprit or anchors in your calculation. Point
your bow toward this "aim-point" on your approach (see illustration on the next page).

15
Here's an example.

Let's say you have a 30 foot sloop, with 3 feet of bowsprit and anchors. You would
choose an aim-point about 11 feet (1/3 x 33) aft of the forward boat.

Once the bow reaches the aim-point, use an after bow spring to hold your position and
work the stern in to the pier.

We will talk more about wind and current approaches in part IV. But for now, we will
make our approach with no influences from wind and current.

Estimate 1/3 of the overall length of your small

cruising boat. Include bowsprit or anchor projections.
Use this to locate the "aim-point" (yellow star) along
the pier.

Use spring, rudder, and throttle alongside

Remember the basic crew assignments of spring line, roving fender, and clear
communications. The more you prepare and communicate beforehand, the better the
evolution will turn out. Here are some basic facts about using the big three: spring lines,
rudder, throttle:

* Spring lines

Use docking springs equal to one half to two thirds of your overall length. Short springs
"snub up" and you won't be able to bring the stern in. It'll stick out there like one of those
wide-load mobile homes you see teetering down the highway. Longer spring lines put
you in control and allow the stern to come in flush to the pier.

16
* Rudder

Once the bow touches the pier or piling, put the sailboat wheel or tiller hard over and
leave it there (see illustration and steps below). Hard rudder and springs work together
like wind and sails. With time, you will be able to fine tune this technique, but for now,
use hard rudder to bring the stern in.

* Throttle

Use idle throttle except in exceptional cases of heavy wind or current. Develop this
mindset from the pros--eggs, not fenders--eggs. Imagine that eggs line your hull instead
of fenders. Now, dock your boat or put her into your slip. See what I mean? Keep that in
mind with every maneuvering speed you use in close quarters.

17
Docking and Un-docking Steps
Once your bow arrives at the aim point, pass the after bow spring around an aft piling.
Then follow these steps:

Pass an after bow spring around an aft piling.

Remove the slack to keep your boat in position. Use
the rudder and throttle to bring the stern in to the pier.

Docking
1. Turn the sailboat wheel hard away from the pier (or hold the tiller toward the pier).
2. Shift into idle ahead and use minimum throttle.
3. Watch the stern. Keep an eye on the bow to make sure you stay in position.
4. Pass over the rest of the lines when done.
5. For temporary stops, leave the boat in idle forward propulsion with full rudder.

Un-docking
1. Rig an after bow spring so that it loops around an aft piling and back to a boat cleat.
2. Turn the sailboat wheel hard toward the pier (or hold the tiller away from the pier).
3. Shift into idle ahead and use minimum throttle.
4. Watch the stern. Keep an eye on the bow to make sure you stay in position.
5. Once the stern projects into the channel, cast off the spring and pull it aboard. Back
out into the channel.

"There is delight to be had from handling a boat well--

and being seen to handle her well."
-- Des Sleightholme from "Better Boat Handling"

18
Choose the #1 Most Vital Sailing Tool
Sail World carried a tragic story a short time ago about a young teenage girl. Her sailing
dinghy capsized. She had attached herself by a hiking harness to the boat.

When she capsized, the boat turtled on top of her. She was unable to untangle herself
from the harness and drowned.

It’s understandable that folks tend to shun knifes and similar equipment on their belts.
It’s a bit weighty, adds bulk on a hot day, and many like to sail unencumbered.

So, what would help encourage sailors to carry knives to help prevent future tragedies?
I believe part of the answer lies with the equipment weight. I began a hunt for a solution.

Remember this name--Boye. I have absolutely no affiliation with this tiny Mom & Pop
company located deep in the desert of Arizona.

This company has one

objective—to build the finest
sailing knives in existence.

Designed by master knife maker

David Boye-- with 40 years of
knife making experience.

Each knife comes with a custom

made, hand ground cobalt blade.

This creates a razor sharp edge

that holds its edge longer than
most any other knife.

The folding version (photo)

weighs in at just 2.2 ounces! Look for a knife that offers safety, compactness,
and absolute reliability in sharpness. The Boye
has a cobalt blade that can cut through the most
modern synthetics unlike few blades in existence.

19
Practical Sailor and Blue Water Sailing are the ones to trust when it comes to sailing
gear equipment recommendations. No BS reporting along with brutal tests under trying
conditions. Here’s what they say:

“14 High End Blades Tested. The Boye Dendritic Cobalt Knife tops the scoring.”
-- Practical Sailor Magazine

“The Boye cobalt lockback knife passes with flying colors.”

-- Blue Water Sailing Magazine

Each Boye blade is formed through investment casting. Molten cobalt is poured into a
porcelain mold, and cools in the raw shape of a blade.

In addition to superlative edge holding, the knife blade, marlinespike (if equipped), belt
clip, lanyard loop are stainless or titanium. The non-slip grip and handle are formed from
nylon reinforced fiberglass. This provides you with a knife that will be rust-proof and a
blade that will not corrode even after repeated immersions fin salt water.

As cobalt cannot be magnetized, you can use your Boye knife in safety around any
compass or electronics without fear of deviation or interference. The thumb hole in the
blade allows the folder to open and close with either hand.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Lifesaving gear like this isn’t cheap. Neither is a single human life. Consider this a one-
time, lifetime investment. Robust, practical, and well thought out. Ready to serve you at
any moment in any situation on any boat anywhere in the world. That’s my idea of
superlative sailing gear.

14 High End Blades Tested:

"The Boye Dendritic Cobalt Knife tops the scoring."
-- PRACTICAL SAILOR MAGAZINE

20
Seven Steps to Heavy Weather Control
Do you know how to reduce heeling and "white
knuckle", two-fisted weather helm to get your
boat under control in gusty sailing winds or
heavy sailing weather?

What one, vital step can you take right away to

boost your confidence in tough wind and sea?

Use these well-proven sailing secrets for safer

sailing in most any sailing conditions that cross
your path!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Most sailors are familiar with reefing sails, but

you can also take several steps before or after
reefing to help balance the boat, reduce heeling,
and keep the helm light and easy to steer.

1. Pinch up in a gust

Luff up a few degrees into the wind each time a

gust hits. This becomes more important if your
sailing crew needs to work on the foredeck.
Watch the mainsail. Allow the forward third of
the sail to flutter. This levels the boat and keeps
it driving without going into irons.
Rubicon" runs before big Tradewind
seas and high winds on our delivery
to the Caribbean. Note the deep reef
in the mainsail and small staysail.

2. Push the mainsheet car downwind

Move the mainsheet car to leeward (downwind) to a position near the end of the traveler
track to keep the leech under control and reduce weather helm. This also reduces
heeling, provides good power and maintains forward drive to punch through a stiff chop.

3. Slack the mainsheet

What works in sailing dinghies works well in cruising sailboats too! If your boat still heels
too much, ease the mainsheet a few inches. This twists the upper half of the sail to
dump high-octane winds up high, and keeps the boat on her feet.

21
4. Adjust headsail blocks and sheets

Move each sheet block aft to flatten the upper half of the sail. If you are still heeling too
much, ease the sheet an inch or two to get your boat back on her feet. On roller furling
headsails, you will need to move the blocks forward to keep leech flutter under control.

5. Heave-to before sail reefing

Did you know that you can make sail reefing easier by heaving-to? This lowers the
stress on your boat sails, sailing rigging--and your sailing crew's nerves! Set the helm
and mainsheet so that the boat luffs up and falls off. Now you can take in the reef
without pitching, heeling, or blinding spray.

6. Reduce Sail, Slow Down--or Stop!

Keep control. Not many things are more hazardous than an over-canvassed vessel,
sailed too fast in rough water conditions. In just about every incident where a vessel
sustained damage or a crew sustained injury, the boat was carrying too much sail for
the conditions or being sailed too fast.

Whether a sloop, ketch, catamaran, or trimaran, you must maintain control and keep the
boat balanced. Lower your speed so that the boat sails flatter, stays dryer, and provides
more comfort for your sailing crew.

Heave-to in severe conditions and wait for the weather to moderate before you proceed.
Go back and read the articles on this site that cover this key element to your sailing
crew's safety. Then go out and practice until you learn what it takes to get your own
boat to heave-to.

What works for one boat may not work for another. But all boats can be made to heave
to--even if it requires a combination of lying to bare poles with a sea anchor. In any
event, spend the time to learn this vital, life-saving skill.

7. Take the Time to Teach

Many of you know that I sail coastal or offshore as crew when I get the opportunity. It
fulfills my passion for sailing, lets me test the techniques that I write about and pass on
to you each week, and it's a perfect way to experience a variety of rigs from sloops to
cutters to ketches in different sea conditions.

When I have a trip coming up, I try to get to the boat a day or two early. I always ask the
skipper to show me the ropes before we leave. Everything. From head operation to
stove operation to sail rigging configuration to seacock locations to engine plant. I ask
lots of questions. In my mind, this isn't the time or place for ego or shyness.

Skippers appreciate and respect this. Indeed, they do not expect you to know their
boats. Even the saltiest sailor crewing on an unfamiliar boat can have a tough time
22
finding the location of a seacock, the right rope to pull, or how to deploy a piece of gear
when conditions worsen, at nighttime in a blinding squall, or in an emergency.

You must--irrelevant of the skill level of your crew--take a few hours on the first day of a
cruise to go through reefing, changing to storms sails, deploying a sea anchor, man
overboard, and any other drills you believe necessary.

No matter whether you just have a sailing partner or a full complement of salty dogs--
put this into your schedule. Make the drills fun and low stress. This single action could
prove to be one of the best time investments you ever make. Give your sailing crew the
confidence they need to put these sailing skills into play--before the unexpected comes
your way!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
As a sailing skipper you need to know special techniques that you can use when caught
short-handed in a blow. Put these methods and techniques into effect today to keep
your sailboat under control in any sailing weather, wherever in the world you choose to
sail.

"Never have I heard of anyone needing rescue

from a vessel that was properly hove-to."
-- Mario Vittone, 14 year USCG rescue swimmer

23
How to Anchor Downwind Under Sail
If you are anything like me, you're always looking for ways
to make short-handed sailing easier and more efficient.

How many times have you found anchoring to be a

handful for you and your sailing partner or spouse? Once
you try cockpit anchoring, you'll be hooked for sure!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Anchoring under sail can be fun, challenging, and

exhilarating. We've talked about how to anchor by turning
up into the wind and back-winding the mainsail (pushing
the mainsail boom against the wind).

But there's another method that can be done from a

downwind approach. And it's just as safe, as long as you
make the right preparations and control your speed.

Smaller cruising sailboats with small, easy-to-handle

marine anchors can take advantage of this quick and easy
technique. Follow these five simple steps to set up your
cockpit for short-handed downwind anchoring.

1.Prepare the Stern Pulpit Mount

Measure across the flukes of your anchor. Cut a piece of

PVC a bit wider than your measurement. Split the tube
and clamp it onto the stern rail.

Keep speed to bare

2. Mount the Anchor
steerage (the slowest
speed that gives positive
Drape your anchor over the PVC tube so that the flukes
rudder control). The
face inboard. Keep the shank outboard. Lash the anchor
boat will pivot 180o after
down with easy-to-remove bungee cord.
the anchor takes a bite.

24
3. Attach the Anchor Chain

Remove the chafing chain from the lower part of your anchor rode. Take it back to the
cockpit and bend it (attach it) to the anchor. Lead the chain outside of the stern pulpit
and back into the cockpit.

4. Fairlead the Anchor Rode

Pull a length of rope anchor rode from your anchor locker equal to your boat length and
cleat the line. Coil the remaining line toward the bitter end.

Lead the coil through the bow chock and feed it out as you walk back to the cockpit.
Stay outside of all stanchions, rails, and shrouds. Attach the rope bitter end to the chain
bitter end.

5. Launch Your Cockpit Anchor

Survey the anchorage to choose an anchorage spot. Make sure that you will have
enough room to turn your boat through 180 degrees.

Remove the bungee. Just before you drop the anchor, angle the bow toward the launch
side. This protects your hull from dings as the ground tackle feeds over the side.

On any downwind approach, you must keep your speed to the absolute minimum at
which you still have positive rudder control (called "bare steerage" or "bare
steerageway").

Use just the headsail or sail in under bare poles. When you drop the anchor, the boat
will pivot 180 degrees and settle into the wind (see illustration).

There are many ways to rig a cockpit anchor, but this method will give you an initial 2:1
or 3:1 scope in shallow water anchorages. Once the anchor sets, increase your scope
to 7:1 or more for overnight anchoring.

Practice Defensive Anchoring 101

Check that the anchor has set deep into the seabed and you are not dragging anchor.
Use drag-bearings. Look off the beam and pick two objects that line up. For example, a
piling and tree, corner of a roof and a flagpole. Write these down in your log. Check the
bearing several times each hour.

If you have just one object off the beam, take a bearing with your hand-bearing
compass. Log the bearing. Check it several times each hour.

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Less than two degrees of change in a drag bearing is acceptable because the vessel
will swing a bit around her anchor and lay back on her rode in a strong breeze. Two
degrees or more of change means you are dragging anchor and must take immediate
action.

Veer scope (let out more anchor rode). Veering lowers more anchor rode toward the
seabed to create more horizontal load on the anchor shank. If you are unable to reset
the anchor by veering scope, start the engine or hoist sail; leave the anchorage until you
can work things out and try again in a more secure spot.

Captain John’s Sailing Tip:

If the wind or current shifts, you may swing to a new position on your anchor circle. Pick
new drag-bearings off the beam. Log the new drag bearings. Pass this new information
on to your crew. Set your gps or chart plotter to alarm through the proximity waypoint
function (check your manual under "anchoring", or "alarms" to see how to do this).

In all cases, you want to anchor defensively and be ready to hoist sail and leave if
necessary. Always, always have a planned "escape route"! That way, if you need to
bear off and try again, you will have a strategy ready to go ahead of time.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Use these five simple steps to get your marine anchor ready to launch from the cockpit.
This will make boat anchoring easier and less stressful for you and your short-handed
sailing crew.

"The serious cruiser will carry at least three anchors, each of a

different type, of which two will be available for immediate use."
-- John Vigor, from "The Seaworthy Offshore Sailboat"

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Pass "Ship-Killing" Shoals Sans GPS!
Strong winds heel your cruising boat as you approach the rock-infested entrance to the
pristine cove you've selected for an anchorage. Your main concerns are those ship-
killing rocks on the starboard side of the entrance. What's the fastest, easiest method to
back up your GPS navigation for safe passage?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

It's easy to ignore traditional forms of navigation with so many touch-pad black box
navigation devices at your fingertips. Shorthanded sailors in particular need fast, easy,
works-every-time methods that require a minimum of chart work.

Use danger bearings (dark red line) to keep your

small cruising sailboat in safe water. Back up your
GPS navigation with simple, easy-to-use techniques
like this.

Use the simple danger bearing when you need to pass hazardous shoals. All of your
chart work can be done dozens of miles before you get close to shoals or dangerous
reefs. It's fast, fun, easy, and accurate. Grab your trusty hand bearing compass and
follow these easy steps:

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1. Choose a Prominent Object.

Study your navigation chart and find a prominent object on the same side as the
danger. Look at the illustration.

If an outcrop of dangerous rocks lies to starboard, select a prominent tank, tower,

lighthouse or other object on the far side of the danger on the starboard side. Note in
the illustration that the dangerous reef lies to starboard.

The sailing skipper chooses a prominent TANK (note: on nautical charts--prominent,

easy-to-see objects are always labeled in all capitals) on the far side of the dangerous
reef on the same side as the danger (to starboard).

2. Plot the Danger Bearing Line..

Draw a line from the charted object back out onto the water (see illustration) on the
outer edge of the danger. Note in the illustration how the line clears the danger. Extend
the line far enough so that you can start taking bearings one to two miles before you
pass the danger.

3. Measure the Danger Bearing.

Find the magnetic bearing of your prominent object. This will be the danger bearing
you'll use. Check your measurement three times for safety's sake. That might seem
silly, but parallel rules, protractors, and other measuring tools can slip and slide. Your
bearings should read the same.

4. Label the Top of the Danger Bearing Line.

Label lines for safety. Not many things are as important as crystal clear labels in
navigation, in particular with short-handed crews in tough sailing conditions.

Danger bearings are always labeled to tell you in an instant whether any bearing you
take to the prominent object will be dangerous. Prefix your danger bearing with NMT
(Not More Than) for dangers to port. Prefix your danger bearing with NLT (Not Less
Than) for dangers to starboard.

Notice in the illustration the danger lies to starboard, so we prefix the danger bearing
with NLT. This means any bearing we take to the prominent object--in this case a Tank-
-should read 045M or higher. If we take a bearing of 045M, 046M, 047M, 048M… we
are sailing in deep water. If we take a bearing less than 045M (i.e. 044, 043, 042…), we
are standing into danger, and must change course away from the danger.

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5. Take Bearings Often.

As soon as you sight your prominent object, start taking danger bearings. Continue to
take bearings until you are clear of the danger. Follow the rule on top of your line. Adjust
your sailing course toward the wind or current in order to compensate for drift or leeway.
If at any time, your bearings fail to meet the danger bearing criteria written on top of the
danger bearing line, turn hard away from the danger.

In the illustration, if we take a bearing to the Tank of 043M, this indicates we are
standing into danger. We must turn hard away from the danger and steer for deeper
water. We will continue to shoot bearings to the Tank until the hand bearing compass
reads 045M or more. That way we will know right away as soon as we are back in safe
water.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Boost your sailing navigation skills with simple, foolproof methods like the humble
danger bearing. Keep your small sailboat and sailing crew or partner safe in the waters
of the world--wherever you choose to cruise!

" In actual practice, piloting generally resolves itself

down into the intelligent study of a chart."
-- Charles F. Chapman

29
Check Your Steering Compass Fast!
Did you know that a small screwdriver can
create havoc with your magnetic compass? Are
you sure you've mounted your compass in a
place free of errors from a magnetic field?.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Make every effort to keep magnetic material,

such as knives, watches and tools clear of your
magnetic compass

Every compass card has a small magnet

attached to the back. And these things love to
swing over toward anything metal or electric.

This plants an error called "magnetic deviation" in your compass. Forget the dopey
movies where the compass swings like a roulette wheel. Uh-uh. You won't even notice
the subtle shift of the compass card toward the object of attraction. And, before you
know it, you're lost.

Follow these steps to make sure you are steering the right course to get to your
destination.

1. Buy a Hand Bearing Compass

This miniature tool looks like a small hockey puck with a neck lanyard. You sight over
the compass to take a compass bearing to check your position or your steering
compass deviation. The best hand bearing compasses are rubber coated for shock
resistance, waterproof, and can be used at night. A hand bearing compass (HB
compass) has no deviation, as long as you follow the next three steps.

2. Turn on Marine Electronic Equipment

Get underway on a calm day. Turn on all normal operating equipment, such as VHF
radio, radar, depth sounder. This simulates the magnetic field that surrounds your
compass when sailing. Doing this insures your test will yield accurate results.

30
3. Remove Personal Magnetic Influences

Check yourself and remove jewelry from ears, neck and wrist. Make sure to keep
knives, cell phones and tools at least 36" away from the compass. Twist the wiring on
any electronics mounted near the compass to lower their magnetic field. Now your
ready to begin the test.

4. Find Your Boats Magic Mark

Stand in the cockpit, on the centerline, away from metal awnings or dodger frames. Use
the hand bearing compass to sight onto an object 1-2 miles away. Note the compass
bearing.

Have the person on the helm turn in a slow, tight circle. Check the bearing to the object
again. If the bearing reads the same, you've found your "magic mark". For the best
accuracy, stand on your mark anytime you take bearings with your HB compass.

5. Check the Steering Compass

Have the steerer steady onto a course. Stand on your magic mark and sight down the
centerline onto the forestay or bow pulpit. Call out "mark" with the helmsman and
compare magnetic compasses. If they are different, align the boat to the hand bearing
compass. Then, steer the course you see on the steering compass.

Example:
Course is 190o Magnetic.
Helm steers: 190o Magnetic; HB Compass reads: 193 o Magnetic
Swing the boat until the HB compass reads 190o Magnetic.
Glance at steering compass: it reads 188 o. Steer 188 o.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Check your steering compass often for deviation when coastal cruising. It takes less
than one minute, and could mean the difference between making and missing a far
away destination.

" Simplicity and reliability are the hallmarks of any great compass."
-- Captain John, from "Seamanship Secrets"

31
Keep Your Diesel Running Like a Top!
Like three thieves in the night they
creep into your engine and work
their way past the slumbering gate
guards.

Sliding and slithering like a nest of

rattlers deep into the belly of your
engine to wait... to rest... Until that
moment that you push the starter
button and then they attack with
relentless, merciless destruction.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

World famous cruising sailor and

engine guru Nigel Calder has--I
believe--the perfect title for a
chapter in his book "Marine Diesel
Engines".

In five simple words, he describes

the mantra that any sailor with any
engine on earth should heed:
"Cleanliness Is Next to Godliness".

Those "thieves in the night" we are

talking about go by many names--
dirt, dust, grime--but they all are
guaranteed to do one thing;

cause you grief, big money, and

lots of unreliability with your small
diesel engine (or outboard for that
matter).

All engines need but three "clean" things to operate like a top: clean air, clean fuel, and
clean oil. You do not need to be a mechanic to maintain any engine in tip-top shape.
Follow your manual's preventative maintenance advice to the letter. Use this guide to
help you along.

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Keep Your Air Filters Clog-Free!

Clean air gives you good compression. Lose compression from a clogged, dirty, dusty
air filter and you lose power. Starting your engine becomes harder and harder. Black
smoke from the exhaust signals unburned fuel. Often forgotten, that air filter on the side
of your engine needs lots of attention. It can be hard to pick out, but it often resembles a
miniature hair-dryer.

Change air filters at least once a year or as your environment changes. Do this even if
the filter looks clean after several months. This will ensure easy starting and proper
combustion to give you good, reliable power.

Keep Your Fuel Squeaky Clean!

90% of all problems with all engines are related to contaminated fuel. Water, bacteria,
and dirt are the major enemies of fuel. Ignore these enemies at your peril. Water in a
fuel tank encourages bacteria growth. After all, its dark in that tank, which makes it the
perfect "petri-dish" for engine killing microbes to grow.

Dirt kills engines even faster than water or bacteria. One speck of dirt that makes its
way past a fuel filter can damage your costly injectors and create enormous damage to
your engine's innards. Put these seven engine life-saving steps into play aboard your
boat to avoid fuel problems this sailing season!

1. Treat your fuel tank with a diesel soluble biocide (there are 2 types, water and
diesel soluble--use the superior diesel soluble biocide).

2. Install dual separator-type primary filters between the fuel tank and engine.

3. Filter fuel at the pump with a fine mesh funnel (available from marine stores).

4. Keep your tank filled to 95% when you leave the boat (allow 5% for expansion).

5. Check the fuel deck fill cap and gasket. That's two things--cap and gasket. A
tight cap with a cracked gasket will allow rain water to penetrate into the tank.
Keep the cap tight and replace the gasket often.

6. Change out primary and secondary fuel filters once a year. Even if your manual
says you can go longer on the secondary, do it once a year. If unsure how to do
this, hire a mechanic to show you how. It will be one of the best returns on an
investment you ever made!

7. Before you start the engine, trace the lines form tank to filters to engine. Look for
leaks, weak hose clamps, cracked hoses, and bright, colorless sheen (this
indicates a fuel leak). Fix fuel leaks before you fire up your engine.

33
Keep Engine Blood Clean and Filtered!

What one component gives you the triple advantage of a lubricant, coolant, and dirt-
trapper? Nothing helps your engine operate more smoothly than good oil of proper
viscosity (thickness) with a strong filtering system.

Look in your user manual and note the interval to change engine oil and filter. What do
you see? Slice the interval in half. If it says change the oil and filter every six months,
put it on your schedule for every 3 months. Become fanatical about checking and
changing your oil, oil filter, and filter gasket (always change all 3 of these at the same
time).

Do not attempt to start any engine before you check the oil level. (this includes before
getting underway from a slip, pier, anchorage, or when you use the engine for
charging). Check it again after you shut the engine down.

Oil should appear black on the stick. Any brownish or milky threads that show indicate
water in the oil. If you see this, locate the source of water penetration and repair the
problem before you attempt to start the engine.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Follow this simple advice to keep your expensive sailboat diesel engine running like a
top and roaring like a lion. It will reward you with long life, good power, and super
reliable service--wherever in the world you choose to cruise!

" A diesel engine must have clear air, clean fuel, clean oil,
and be kept clean. "
-- Nigel Calder, from "Marine Diesel Engines"

34
Are You Ready to Enter That Marina?
Are you ready to enter that narrow canal or passage
ahead that leads into the marina...

Have you prepared your boat and crew for the

unexpected...

like loss of engine power...

boats blocking the channel...

a last minute change in docking...

or a wind or current shift?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If you are anything like me, you want to make tight quarters maneuvers without the
worry of whether you have all the gear you need--out on deck and ready.

Follow these five easy rules of docking for any type of boat. They apply to cruising or
racing sailboats, or inboard or outboard power boats.

1. Rig docking lines on both sides of the boat. The pros know that things can change
once you get into a narrow maneuvering situation. With lines rigged on each side, you
are ready to tie up on port or starboard side. Spring lines are the #1 most important
docking lines. Make springs long enough to loop around a dock piling or dock cleat and
lead back to a boat cleat or winch.

2. Hang two to three fenders on each side--one near the bow and another near the
beam (widest part of the boat). This protects you no matter which side you dock on, and
protects other boats in case you make contact while maneuvering.

3. Break out a boat hook or two. Open up the collapsible type boat hook to the full
extended position. This helps your crew reach hard to grab lines without leaning out
over the water. If in a sailboat, place the boat hook on the coach roof to prevent it from
becoming a trip hazard.

4. Assign a roving fender to one of your crew. This becomes the most important position
of your crew during docking and maneuvering. Take a fender and make a large loop
from the eye in one end to the other.

The rover uses the fender to cushion wherever he or she sees contact will be made.
This prevents costly damage to your hull, pier structures, or other moored yachts.

35
5. Know your wind and current. Near the entrance to the marina or yacht basin, stop
your boat. Which way does she drift? What signs do you see inside the basin to indicate
wind direction?

Look for flags, masthead wind indicators on the top of sailboat masts, or ruffles on the
water. For current, check water flowing around pilings, day-beacons, or light structures.
Expect to encounter wind shadows (wind blocked by obstructions like land, houses,
buildings, trees) and current eddies (current that changes direction when it flows around
or bounces off of an obstruction) inside enclosed bodies of water.

Keep your eye on piling bases and wind indicators. Revise your docking approach
strategy as necessary.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Now you know five basic preparations you need to make each and every time you enter
a marina or basin for close quarters maneuvers. Learn how to dock a boat like a pro
and you will boost your skipper skills to new levels--guaranteed!

" Foremost among the seaman's arts is the skill to manage

and minimize risk by anticipating danger. "
-- John Rousmaniere, from "The Annapolis Book of Seamanship"

36