Professional Documents
Culture Documents
1-1
Parts of Light Vehicle and Its Function
Objectives: After reading this information sheet, the trainee should be able to:
1. Give the parts of the vehicle and its function.
2. Explain the operation of the speed-control system, and other electrical and electronic devices.
3. Describe analog and electronic instrument panels, and the operation of the speedometer and
odometer.
I. Vehicle Lightning
A. Lights—the driver uses electric lightning to provide the illumination or light needed to safely operate
the vehicle. The various lights provide vision and information to the driver, convenience for passengers,
and signals and warnings to other drivers and pedestrians.
B. Light Bulbs
Lightning is provided by various sizes and types of light bulbs. When an electric current flows through a
fine wire or filament in the bulb, the filament gets hot and emits visible light. The bulb may fit into a
socket which forms part of a lamp. The bulb may fit into a socket which forms part of a lamp.
Some bulbs have two filaments. This allows a single bulb to provide light in two circuits for different
purposes. The various bulbs and lighting circuits usually receive power from the fuse panel, ignition
switch, or headlamp switch.
C. Headlamps
It is the most important lamps for the driver. When switch on, they provide light ahead of the vehicle.
The tungsten filament turns white-hot when connected to the battery and gives out light. The light is
reflected forward by the curved reflector. Then the light passes through the lens which arranges it in a
pattern to light the road ahead. The sealed beam headlamp is replaced as a unit.
Many vehicles have halogen headlamps. These emit a whiter and brighter light than other sealed-beam
lights. The halogen headlamp has a smaller inner bulb filled with halogen gas which protects the
tungsten filament. The outer case is airtight or hermetically sealed. The halogen headlamp is replaced as
a unit.
The most widely used headlamps are made in four sizes, two round and two rectangular The round sizes
are 5.75 (146 mm) and 7 inches (178 mm). The rectangular sizes are 6.5 by 4 inches (165 by 100 mm)
and 7.9 by 5.6 inches (200 by 142mm). All have the number the number 1 or 2 molded into the top of
the lens. Type 1 has one high-beam filament. Type 2 has two filaments, one for high beam and other for
low beam. The letter H or the word HALOGEN appears on the lens of a halogen headlamp.
Some cars use smaller rectangular headlamps or aerodynamically-styled composite headlamps .These
are made of plastic instead of glass and have a replaceable halogen bulb.
A vehicle with four headlamps has two type 1 and two type 2 headlamps. For low- beam driving, one
filament in each type 2 headlamp comes on. On high beam, the other filament in the type 2 headlamps
comes on along with thee single filament in the type 1 headlamps.
D. Headlamp Switch
The Headlamp Switch controls the operation of the headlamps and other exterior and interior lights. It
connects directly to the battery and mounts on the instrument panel to left of the steering wheel. The
headlamp switch usually combines a circuit breaker with a three- position pull switch. It also includes a
rotary switch that operates a variable resistor or rheostat.
The three positions of the pull switch are OFF, PARK, and HEADLAMPS. Pulling the knob to the first
detent or PARK position turns on the parking lights, side-marker lights, and instrumental panel lights.
Pulling the knob to the second detent turns on the headlamps. Clockwise rotation of the knob varies the
instrument-panel lighting from full bright to dim Rotating the knob fully counterclockwise turns on the
dome light and courtesy lights. Instead of the pull-type headlamp switch, some cars have three-position
rocker switch and a rotating thumbwheel on the instrument panel.
F. Turn-Signal Lights
The turn signals permit the driver to signal an intention to turn right or left. The system includes:
1. A lamp at each front and rear corner of the vehicle.
2. A lever-operated turn-signal switch in the steering column.
3. A flasher which is an automatic-reset circuit breaker.
4. Left- and right- turn indicator lights in the instrument panel.
The turn-signal lever is moved up for right turn and down for a left turn. The turn-signal switch then
completes the circuits to the proper lamps current flows from the battery through the flasher to the
lamps. In the flasher, the current passes through a thermostatic blade. The resulting heat causes the
thermostatic blade to bend, opening thee flasher contacts. The blade quickly cools and contacts close.
This produces a pulsating voltage that causes the turn-signal lights to flash.
After completing the turn, the turn movement the steering wheel automatically cancels the turn signal.
The lever moves back to its neutral position, opening the circuit.
A bulb failure or poor ground may cause the turn signals to work in one direction but not the other. If no
flashing occurs in either direction, check for a blown fuse or defective flasher.
G. Fiber-optic Lighting
Some cars have as many as 80 light bulbs. Each bulb can burn out and fail. Some components, such as
instrument panels, have many bulbs close together. However, there is little room behind the instrument
panel for the bulbs, their sockets, and thee connecting wiring. One solution is the use of printed circuits.
Another is the use of fiber-optic cables.
Fiber-optic cables are made of one or more transparent glass or plastic fibers bundled together parallel
to one another. Each cable formed by the fiber or bundle can conduct light, even around bends and
corners. As light starts down thee fiber, the light keeps reflecting off the internal surfaces of the fiber
with little loss. When the light comes out the other end, it is almost as strong as when it entered.
There is what we call a fiber-optic lamp monitor system. Fiber-optic cables run from the lamps to a lamp
monitor on top of each front fender. When the headlamps are on, the lamp monitors show that the
lights are working. If a bulb burns out, its monitor also goes out. This warns the driver that the lamp has
failed.
Another way to use fiber-optics is to run cables from a central light source to various outlets where light
is needed. This allows only one bulb to provide light at many places. A special arc- discharge bulb
provides thee light. It is smaller and lasts longer than a halogen bulb. Similar to a fluorescent or neon
bulb, there is no filament to burn out. The light appears at each lamp or outlet only when needed. This
system would prevent the failure of many individual bulbs.
J. Headlamp Aiming
Headlamps must be aimed correctly so the driver can see at night and to prevent the blinding of
approaching drivers. One method is the use of an aiming screen. Park the car on a level floor, 25 feet
(7.6 m) from the screen. Then the high beam and low beam can be checked.
Adjust the headlamps to provide the specified pattern. There are usually adjusted by turning vertical-aim
and horizontal-aim adjusting screws. An adapter mounts to the three aiming pads on the headlamp.
Some shops have an optical aimer. It does not touch the headlamp. When using a headlamp aimer,
follow the manufacturer’s operating instructions. Headlamp-aiming patterns and adjustment are in the
vehicle service manual.
Some vehicles have aiming devices built into the headlamp assembly. A bubble level indicates the
proper height (up-and-down) adjustment as the vertical aim adjusting screws are turned in and out.
Other vehicles also have built-in scales and pointers for horizontal (side-to-side) adjustment.
Caution:
Halogen bulbs and headlamps get very hot. Do not touch a halogen bulb or lamp while it is on or shortly
after it has been turned-off. Handle the separately-mounted bulb carefully. It contains gas under
pressure. The bulb may shatter if scratched and dropped. Do not touch the glass envelope. The oil from
your skin may damage it. Keep the bulb out of reach of children.
II. Safety and Signaling
A. Horn and Horn Relay
Most Cars have two horns at the front of the car. Horns are electrically-operated noise- makers used by
the driver to provide a loud warning signal. Pressing a horn button in the steering wheel or column
grounds thee circuit connecting the battery to the horn relay. This closes contact points in the relay and
connects the horns—through the relay—to the battery. The electric current then causes a diaphragm in
each horn to vibrate and produce the sound.
D. Speed-Control System
The cruise control or speed-control system helps the vehicle to automatically maintain a speed selected
by the driver. When set at any speed above about 225 mph [40 kmph], the driver’s foot can be removed
from the accelerator pedal. An actuator motor, vacuum servo then opens and closes the throttle, as
needed to maintain the speed. However, steep grades up or down may cause vehicle speed to vary.
Tapping the clutch or brake pedal operates a switch that disengages the system. Touching the RESUME
button or switch causes the vehicle to return to the former speed setting. Depressing thee accelerator
pedal for passing does not affect the setting. Depressing the accelerator pedal for passing does not
affect the setting. When the pedal is released, the system returns the vehicle to the preset speed. To
disengage and turn off the speed-control system, move the OFF-ON switch to OFF.
E. Networks and Multiplexing
Some cars have several microprocessors which control the various electronic systems. One way to
reduce duplication and wiring is to have these controllers communicate with each other. When this
happens the group of interconnected components and systems becomes a network. For example, a
sensor is wired to one controller. If then shares the information with all other controllers that require it.
The vehicle has fewer sensors, and the amount of wiring and number of connections is greatly reduced.
1. ________are electrically-operated noise- makers used by the driver to provide a loud warning signal.
a. Turn-signal lightsc. Windshield wipers
b. Seat Beltsd. Horns
3. _______are balloon-type devices that inflate automatically to protect the driver (and front-passenger
in some vehicles) if a front-end crash occurs.
a. Turn-signal lightsc. Windshield wipers
b. Seat Beltsd. Air Bags
4. ______ clean the windshield so the driver can see clearly while driving in rain or snow.
a. Turn-signal lightsc. Horns
b. Seat Beltsd. Windshield wipers
5. _____ which indicate an intended change in direction by flashing lights on the side toward which the
turn will be made.
1. D
2. B
3. D
4. D
5. A
Information sheet 1.1-2
HAND TOOLS
Hand tools
Automotive service work requires a great variety of tools. The proper tools properly used enable to do a
job with safety, speed, and efficiency.
This information sheet covers hand tools. Your hand supplies the energy to use them. They include
striking, turning, gripping, and cutting tools. They also include tube bending and flaring tools.
A. Striking tools
1. Hammers— a hammer is a hand tool used for striking. The ball-peen hammer is the one used most in
the shop. Grip thee hammer on the end of the handle. Swing it so the hammer face strikes the object or
surface squarely. Avoid hitting the object at an angle. Use rawhide, plastic, brass, and rubber hammers
to strike easily marred surfaces. A dead blow hammer has a hollow head partially filled with small metal
shot. This recess rebounding.
B. Turning Tools
1. Screwdrivers—Use the proper screwdriver to drive or turn screw. Screwdrivers are made in a variety
of sizes, shapes, and special purpose designs. The most common type has a single flat blade for driving
screws with slotted heads there are also Torx-head and Phillips-head screws.
Always select a screw driver of the proper types and size for the job. When using a single-blade
screwdriver, the blade should completely fill the screw slot. This helps prevent damage to the screw
head.
2. Wrenches—long-handled tool with fixed or adjustable jaws. You use a wrench to turn bolts, nuts, and
screws to work on both USC, and metric fasteners, you need both USC and metric wrenches. A 3/8- to 1-
inch USC set and a 6- to 119-mm metric set will handle most jobs. You need these sizes in sets of open-
end, box, and combination wrenches.
a. Open-end wrench— usually has a jaw opening at a 15 degree angle to a handle. Turn the bolt or nut
as far as the space permits. Then flip the wrench over for further turning of the fastener.
An open-end wrench has a different size on each end. Make sure the wrench fits snugly against the flats.
These are the sides of a nut or bolt head. A loose fit may break or spring the jaws of the wrench.
Springing jaws spread apart and round off the corners of the hex. This makes use of the proper wrench
more difficult.
Careful:
Never use an open-end wrench to final-tighten a fastener or to free a frozen fastener. The jaws may
spread enough to allow thee wrench to slip. Use a box wrench or a socket wrench for these jobs.
b. Box-wrench—opening surrounds or “boxes in” the nut or bolt head. An advantage is that the box will
seldom slip off. However, you must lift the box wrench completely off and then place it back on for each
swing. The wrench-head is thin for use in tight places. The head usually sets at a 15-degree angle to the
body. This provides hand clearance for swinging the wrench.
The most common box wrench has 12 notches or “points” in the head. This allows turning the fastener if
the wrench can swing 30 degrees. A six-point box wrench holds better on a nut or bolt but needs a
greater swing. The box wrench has different size openings on each end.
c. Combination wrench— has a box on one end and an open end on the other. The two ends are usually
the same size. The box end is more convenient for breaking loose or final tightening a nut or bolt. But
you must lift the box completely free after each swing. The open end is more likely to slip off. However,
once the fastener is loose, the open end can turn it faster.
d. Flare-nut wrench— is a special type of combination or box end wrench. It is used to attach or loosen a
flare nut or tubing nut. The ends of the flare-nut wrench are thicker than on the wrenches. This helps
prevent slipping and rounding off the points on soft-metal tube fittings. The six-point box end has one of
the flats cut out .The opening is large enough to slip over the tube.
Careful:
Do not turn the flare nut without holding coupling nut. This will usually twist and break the metal
tube.ee.
e. Adjustable wrench— an adjustable wrench (has a movable jaw that you adjust the fit nuts and bolt
heads of various sizes. Tighten thee jaws against the flats of the nut or bolt before applying a turning
force. Adjustable wrenches are normally used only when applying relatively light torque. They are not
always a strong as fixed jaw wrenches and may be damaged if excessive torque is applied.
f. Socket wrenches—the most widely used tools. They are like box wrenches except that the head or
socket is detachable from the handle. You assemble the socket wrench you need from the socket set in
your toolbox
1. SOCKET. The 12-point socket allows you to turn a bolt or nut in tight spots. However, if a bolt head or
nut has rounded corners or excessive resistance to turning, thee 120point socket may slip. Use a six
point socket for these. The eight point socket is for turning square heads. These include drain plugs, fill
plugs, and pipe plugs.
Deep sockets reach nuts on bolts or studs that are too long for the standard socket to reach. You
remove and install spark plugs with a spark-plug socket. This is a six-point deep socket with a rubber
insert. Thee insert holds the plug to prevent it from falling out of the socket.
2. HANDLES. Figure 7-8 shows several handles. The ratchet handle has a mechanism that permits free
motion in one direction but lockup in the other. You select the direction for lockup by moving the
reversing lever Extensions of various lengths provide access to hard-to-reach bolts or nuts. The universal
joint allows you to turn a nut or bolt while holding the driver at an angle. Adapters allow you to use a
driver with a socket having a different drive size. Also, various kinds and sizes of screw drivers, Torx
drives, Allen wrenches, and flare- nut wrenches will fit the drivers and adapters.
NOTE:
To work on variety of domestic and imported cars, you need both USC and metric socket sets.
g. Torque wrench— is basically a special handle for a socket. An indicator on the torque wrench
measures the torque or twisting force. This is the amount of force applied to a nut or bolt while
tightening it. Vehicle service manuals give the torque specification might be to tighten a bolt to “20 lb-
ft.” this means to apply a 20 pound pull at a distance of 1 foot from the bolt.
Dirty or damaged threads put a drag on the threads as the bolt or nut is tightened. This gives a false
reading on the torque wrench. It can also result in not enough tightening.
Many torque wrenches read in pound-feet 9lb-ft). Some read in pound-inches (lb-in). Use these where
you need to accurately apply a small torque. Twelve pound-inches equals one-pound-foot.
The scale on metric torque wrenches is in kilogram-meters (kg-m), kilogram-centimeters (kg-cm), or
newton-meters (n-m). Newton- meters is the preferred unit. To convert from USC to newton-meters,
multiply pound-feet by 1.35.
h. Torque-Angle Gauge—Tighten torque-to-yield bolts to an initial torque with a torque wrench. Then
final-tighten the bolts by turning them through a specified angle with a socket wrench.
You can easily see a 90-degree turning angle by watching how a ratchet-handle or breaker-bar moves.
For other angles, use a torque-angle gauge. It accurately measures the turning angle in degrees. The
gauge attaches to the socket driver. The socket attaches to the gauge. As the handle turns, the degree
indicator remains the greatest angle reached.
C. Gripping tools
1. Pliers—Pliers are hand tools with a pair of adjustable pivoted jaws for cutting or gripping .There are
many styles and sizes of pliers. Combination slip-joint pliers may have cutting edges at the back of the
jaws for wire cutting. Tongue-and-groove or groove-and-land pliers such as Channel lock pliers have the
tongues or lands to different grooves changes the distance the jaws can open. The jaws remain parallel
at any setting.
Locking pliers such as Vise-Grip pliers have locking jaws. This makes them useful as pliers, wrenches,
clamps, and small vises. Look the jaws by turning a screw in the end of the handle. This adjusts the size
of the opening. Closing the handles then locks the jaws into place. To release the jaws, pull the release
lever.
Careful:
Never use gripping pliers on hardened steel surfaces. This dulls the pliers’ teeth. Never use pliers on nuts
or bolt heads. The pliers may slip and round off the edges of the hex. Then a wrench or socket will not fit
on the fastener properly.
2. Pullers—remove parts assembled with an interference fit. This includes removing gears and hubs
from shafts, and bushings from bores or cylinder liner from engine blocks.
A puller set has many pieces that can fit together to form the puller needed for the job. There are three
basic types of pullers.
D. Cutting Tools
Cutting tools remove metal. They include chisels, hacksaws, files, punches. Drills, taps, and dies are also
cutting tools. Power cutting tools include grinders, hones, lathes, and boring machine.
1. Chisels— the chisel is a cutting tool with a single cutting edge. There are various sizes and shapes of
chisels. Striking the chisel with a hammer makes the chisel cut metal. Hold the chisel with one hand and
the hammer in the other. Hit the end of the chisel squarely holding the chisel in a chisel holder or
smooth-jaw locking pliers will protect your hand.
Caution:
Always wear eye protection when using a chisel. Never use a chisel with a mushroomed head. When the
hammer strikes the head, a piece could fly off. The flying metal could cut you or injure an unprotected
eye.
2. Hacksaw—is basically an adjustable metal frame that holds a steel saw blade .The blade is replaceable
and has from14 to 32 teeth per inch. Cutting occurs on the forward stroke as you push the blade across
the metal. The teeth act like tiny chisels and cut off fine shavings or chips. Select a blade with the proper
number teeth per inch for the job. The teeth must be close enough so at least two teeth are cutting.
Teeth that are too close together clog and stop cutting. The hacksaw blade for general cutting has 18
teeth per inch.
3. Files— are used for cutting and shaping metal. They have many cutting edges or teeth. When the cuts
are far apart, there are only a few per inch. This is rough- or coarse-cut file. When the cuts are close
together, the file is a smooth or dead-smooth file. A single-cut file has a series of sharp blades. A double-
cut file has a second series cut at an angle to the first. This creates a series of sharp teeth. Various sizes
and cuts of round, half-round, flat, and triangular files are used during automotive service work. Always
use a handle with a file. Tapping the end of the handle on the bench tightens the file in the handle. Keep
the file teeth clean with a file card. It has short stiff-wire bristles that remove chips and dirt from the
teeth.
4. Punches—are used to knock out rivets and pins. They also align parts for the assembly. To remove a
rivet, grind off the rivet head. Or cut it off with a chisel. Mark spots where holes are to be drilled with a
center punch. The punch mark keeps the drill bit centered as it starts cutting you can use the center
punch to mark parts before they are disassembled. Align the punch marks to reassemble the parts in the
same position.
5. Twist drills (Drill bits) — are tools for making holes. The material being drilled determines the
preferred shape of the cutting edges that form the point. The grooves along the body carry the chips out
of the hole. A hand-held air or electric drill motor, or a drill press, drives the drill bit.
6. Taps and Dies — tap-and-die sets are for cutting USC and metric threads. Taps cut inside the threads.
To tap a hole, determine the thread size needed. Refer to a tap drill chart and select the size of drill bit
required. The hole made by the specified tap drill will be the proper diameter for tapping.Dies cut
outside threads on rods diestock holds the die. Chamfer or bevel the rod end so the die starts easily.
The basic procedure is the same for both taps and dies. Apply cutting the lubricant to the surface. Then
begin thread cutting. After every two turns, back off the tap or die and apply more lubricant.
4. ____are hand tools with a pair of adjustable pivoted jaws for cutting or gripping
a. Pliers c. Hammer
b. Wrenchesd. screw driver
A. Light vehicle
1. Private car
2. Owner type Jeepney
3. Taxicab
4. Public Utility Jeepney
1. Seat belt— a strong strap or harness designed to keep the wearer securely in a seat in a vehicle or
aircraft
2. Early Warning device— advance notice that something, especially something dangerous or
threatening, is going to happen.
• E.W.D orange must be set in front the vehicle at least 5 meter away
• E.W.D red must be set at the back of the vehicle at least 5 meter away
3. Hand tools
a. Wrench— a hand or power tool with fixed or movable jaws, used to seize, turn, or twist objects such
as nuts and bolts
b. Pliers—a hand tool with two hinged arms ending in jaws that are closed by hand pressure to grip
something
c. Screwdrivers—a tool for driving screws that consists of a handle or power tool with a metal rod
shaped at the tip to fit into the head of a screw
d. Early warning Device
e. Jack—a portable device that uses a mechanical or hydraulic lifting system to raise heavy objects,
especially cars, a short distance
f. Spare tires—rubber edging for wheel kept in case of emergency.
A. Light vehicle
1. Private car
2. Owner type Jeepney
3. Taxicab
4. Public Utility Jeepney
1. Seat belt— a strong strap or harness designed to keep the wearer securely in a seat in a vehicle or
aircraft
2. Early Warning device— advance notice that something, especially something dangerous or
threatening, is going to happen.
• E.W.D orange must be set in front the vehicle at least 5 meter away
• E.W.D red must be set at the back of the vehicle at least 5 meter away
3. Hand tools
a. Wrench— a hand or power tool with fixed or movable jaws, used to seize, turn, or twist objects such
as nuts and bolts
b. Pliers—a hand tool with two hinged arms ending in jaws that are closed by hand pressure to grip
something
c. Screwdrivers—a tool for driving screws that consists of a handle or power tool with a metal rod
shaped at the tip to fit into the head of a screw
d. Early warning Device
e. Jack—a portable device that uses a mechanical or hydraulic lifting system to raise heavy objects,
especially cars, a short distance
f. Spare tires—rubber edging for wheel kept in case of emergency.
4. Flashlights— emergency lighting device
5. Consumable Materials and spare parts such as”
a. Rags—a small piece or scrap of usually old or unwanted cloth used for cleaning, polishing, or applying
liquid substances
b. Fan Belt—a continuous belt that turns a fan, especially one turning the cooling fan in the engine of a
motor vehicle
c. Wheel cap—a wheel in a vehicle that is connected by way of the steering column to the steering gear
and is turned to change direction
d. Fuse—an electrical safety device containing a piece of a metal that melts if the current running
through it exceeds a particular level, thereby breaking the circuit
e. Electrical Tape
f. Brake Fluid—a liquid or gas put in brake
g. Motor oil—oil put in the engine
Information Sheet 1.1-4
Routinely Checks on Vehicle Component
(THE BLOWBAGETS}
Objective: After reading the information, the trainee should be able to perform routinely checks on
vehicle component (THE BLOWBAGETS}.
T – Tires – is a ring shaped component that surrounds a wheel’s rim to transfer a vehicle’s load from the
axles through the wheel to the ground and to provide traction on the surface traveled over.
The Following must be checked:
a. Uneven sidewall wear, down to fabric plies, due to significant under-inflation
H – Horn – is a sound making device that can be equipped to motor vehicles, buses, bicycles, trains and
other type of vehicles. The vehicle operator uses the horn to warn others of vehicle approach or
presence. Or to call attention to some hazards.
The following must be checked:
a. Check the relay connecting to the battery.
E – Engine – is a machine designed to convert one form into mechanical energy. Heat engines burn a
fuel to create heat which is then used to do work.
The following must be checked”
a. Engine oil
b. ATF
c. Brake Fluid
d. Fan Belt
B -Battery - The cars source of electrical energy. It supplies direct current to the electrical Components
an electro chemical device for storing energy in chemical form so that it can be released as electricity for
cranking the engine and powering the electrical load
The following must be checked
a. Clamps and cables
b. Battery solution
c. Cracks
d. Under charge
e. Terminal corrosion
f. Sulfation
L- Light-The lighting system of a vehicle inside and outside of the car is either automatic or manually
operated or switch by the driver.
a. Headlight – the main lighting system of a vehicle
b. Signal light-use to indicate right turn or left turn
c. Stop light- use to indicate slow down or stopping
d. Back up light- use to indicate vehicle backing up
e. High beam indicator- use to indicate high beam of headlight
f. Horn
g. Fuses and relays
h. Wires and cables
i. switches
O –Oil- Is to prevent friction between moving parts of the engine by supplying an adequate amount of
oil.
Tasks
• To cool the engine components
• To provide seal between sliding contact components
• To clean internal parts of the engine
• Motor oil, gear oil, and A.T.F
W- Water -Is place in the radiator where cooling takes place.
A. Cooling System Flush
Overheating in engines is often caused by a poorly performing cooling system. This can lead to a lack of
performance or worse, the potential failure of your engine and transmission resulting in expensive
repair bills.
Our Cooling System Flush is designed to safely break down and remove rust and scale deposits from the
cooling system. This specialty service then replaces up to 95% of the old coolant and refills the system
with quality, long life fluid.
Specialty conditioning treatment is added to help maintain the cooling system in optimum condition.
KEY ITEMS:
o Check radiator for damage or leaks
o Check hoses and thermostat operation
o Drain and flush cooling system
o Refill radiator with coolant and conditioner
o Pressure test cooling system and test for leak
B-Brakes – A brake is a mechanical device that inhibits motion by absorbing energy from a moving
system. It is used for slowing or stopping a moving vehicle, wheel, axle, or to prevent its motion, most
often accomplished by means of friction
A-Air
Air, mixture of gases that composes the atmosphere surrounding Earth. Air is the life sustaining of
vehicle tire and must always be checked before running the vehicle.
The following must be checked
a. Tire pressure
Tire Service
Why is it important?
Tires may wear differently depending on their position on the vehicle, your driving style and the
condition of your suspension. Regularly rotating your tires can evenly distribute their wear—helping you
get the most miles out of your tires while maximizing traction on all four wheels.
What is the service?
Changing the position of the tires on your vehicle is according to your vehicle and tire manufacturers’
recommended rotation pattern.
Benefit to you:
Tire Rotation Service – Helps maximize the life span of your tires.
G-Gas – Natural gas vehicle (NGV) is an alternative fuel vehicle that uses compressed natural gas (CNG)
or liquefied natural gas (LNG). Natural gas vehicles should not be confused with vehicles powered by
LPG (mainly propane), which is a fuel with a fundamentally different composition.
- Especially during long drives, a full gas tank is important. Imagine how troublesome it would be if you
run out of fuel while you’re stuck in traffic or driving along the road where a gas station is nowhere in
sight.
E-Early Warning Device – a device that signals the occurrence of some undesirable event.
4 reasons why carrying an Early Warning Device:
1. Safety - EWD is designed for safety purposes. It warns other motorists that there’s a stalled vehicle
ahead, which could lessen the odds of an accident.
2. Road Courtesy - Placing EWD won’t just keep you safe when you pull over to the side but, it will also
protect the approaching motorists. In this way, you are being courteous towards other road users, and
at the same time, you are promoting road safety.
3. Responsible Car Owner - If all of us are responsible car owners or drivers, car-related accidents could
be reduced to a minimum. Be a responsible driver by practicing road safety and courtesy. As such, you
should always have the essential tools inside your car–especially the EWD
4. Required by the Law - Yes, it is required by the law. The Memorandum Circular No. VPT-2012-1609 or
the Revised Rules on the Implementation of the Early Warning Device Requirement states that EWD is a
mandatory accessory for all motor vehicles, except motorcycles and tricycles. The memorandum goes on
by stating that “a pair of EWD…shall be carried at all times.” So, you might want to buy EWD right now if
you still don’t have one inside your car.
T-Tools – a device or implement, especially one held in the hand, used to carry out a particular function,
any instrument or simple piece of equipment that you hold in your hands and use to do a particular kind
of work.
S-Self - Human error is the leading cause of road accidents. Accident Recording and Analysis System cites
fatigue, sleepiness, drunkenness, and medical problems like asthma and dizziness as examples.
The following must be checked
1. Check yourself! If you’re sick, dizzy, tired, sleepy, or drunk, you better let somebody else take over the
steering wheel.
2. Also, check your documents before you hit the road. Your driver’s license, LTO registration papers,
and proof of car insurance should be within reach when you get pulled over on your road trip.
Self-Check 1.1-4
A. True or False
Instruction: Write T if the statement is correct and f if the statement is False.
1. Overheating in engines is often caused by a poorly performing cooling system.
2. It is highly recommended to check your oil twice a month.
3. The lighting system of a vehicle inside and outside of the car is either automatic or manually operated
or switch by the driver.
4. Changing the position of the tires on your vehicle is according to your vehicle and tire manufacturers’
recommended rotation pattern.
5. Air is the life sustaining of vehicle tire and must always be checked before running the vehicle.
B. Enumeration
1. Vehicle components routinely to be checked
2. Components must be checked on the Battery
3. Components must be checked on Light
Answer Key 1.1-4
A. True or False
1. T
2. T
3. T
4. T
5. T
B. Enumeration
1. Vehicle components routinely to be checked
T - Tires
H - Horn
E - Engine
B—Battery
L—Light
O—Oil
W—Water
B - Brakes
A - Air
G - Gauges
E – Early Warning Device (EWD)
T - Tools
S - Self
2. Components must be checked on the Battery
a. Clamps and cables
b. Battery solution
c. Cracks
d. Under charge
e. Terminal corrosion
f. Sulfattion
Objective
After performing the Job Sheet, the trainee should be able to Perform Light Vehicle Pre-starting and
warm-Up.
Condition
Tools/Materials
Hand Tools
Car
Procedure
Criteria
Yes
No
Check Safety harness/devices and tools according to the land transportation office (LTO)/ land
transportation franchising and regulatory board (LTFRB) requirements.
Perform OHS?
Perform 5’s
Criteria
Yes
No
x
Check Safety harness/devices and tools according to the land transportation office (LTO)/ land
transportation franchising and regulatory board (LTFRB) requirements.
Perform OHS?
Perform 5’s
EVIDENCE PLAN
Qualification Title
Driving NC II
Unit of Competency
Module Title
Portfolio
Written
Identified and obtained the hand tools, safety harness/devices in accordance with LTO/LTFRB
requirements.
x
Perform warm up light vehicle as per manufacturer’s manual.
TABLE OF SPECIFICATION
Objectives/Content area/Topics
Knowledge
Comprehension
Application
Percentage of test
10%
5%
35%
10%
0%
35%
5%
20%
30%
TOTAL
50%
25%
25%
100%
ITEM DISTRIBUTION
Objectives/Content area/Topics
Knowledge
Comprehension
Application
# of test item
1
7
TOTAL
10
20 Items
ITEM ANALYSIS
Name of Trainees
Total score
Per cent
Remarks
5
6
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
Son Gokou
1
1
15
75%
Passed
Son Gohan
1
1
16
80%
Passed
Vegeta
1
1
14
70%
Failed
Krililin
1
0
17
80%
Passed
Majinbuu
1
1
15
75%
Passed
Trunks
1
1
16
80%
Passed
Andoid 18
1
0
17
85%
Passed
Android 17
0
0
17
85%
Passed
Master pogi
1
1
15
75%
Passed
Master Lao
1
0
13
65%
Failed
Videl
1
1
16
80%
Passed
Tenshin han
1
1
17
80%
Passed
Kenshin Himura
0
1
16
80%
Passed
Voltes Five
1
1
16
80%
Passed
1
0
16
80%
Passed
Zorro
1
1
20
100%
Passed
Dende
1
1
20
100%
Passed
Goten
1
1
20
100%
Passed
Piccolo
1
1
20
100%
Passed
Yamcha
1
1
20
100%
Passed
Tien Shinhan
1
1
20
100%
Passed
Raditz
1
1
20
100%
Passed
Dabura
1
1
20
100%
Passed
Mr. Popo
1
1
20
100%
Passed
Master Kami
1
1
20
100%
Passed
15
15
15
20
18
15
15
16
15
16
15
18
18
16
17
13
16
18
17
20
Right Difficulty
Right Difficulty
Right Difficulty
Easy
Easy
Right Difficulty
Right Difficulty
Easy
Right Difficulty
Easy
Right Difficulty
Easy
Easy
Easy
Easy
Difficult
Easy
Easy
Easy
Easy
Note No.1:
1 – Corresponds to the correct answer
0 – corresponds to the wrong answer
Difficult
Revise or Discard
0.26-0.75
Right Difficulty
Retain
0.76-Above
Easy
Revise or Discard
WRITTEN TEST
A. Multiple Choices
Instruction: Choose the letter that correspond the correct answers.
1. ________are electrically-operated noise- makers used by the driver to provide a loud warning signal.
a. Turn-signal lightsc. Windshield wipers
b. Seat Beltsd. Horns
3. _______are balloon-type devices that inflate automatically to protect the driver (and front-passenger
in some vehicles) if a front-end crash occurs.
a. Turn-signal lightsc. Windshield wipers
b. Seat Beltsd. Air Bags
4. ______ clean the windshield so the driver can see clearly while driving in rain or snow.
a. Turn-signal lightsc. Horns
b. Seat Beltsd. Windshield wipers
5. _____ which indicate an intended change in direction by flashing lights on the side toward which the
turn will be made.
9. ____are hand tools with a pair of adjustable pivoted jaws for cutting or gripping
a. Pliers c. Hammer
b. Wrenchesd. screw driver
A. Multiple Choice
1. D
2. B
3. D
4. D
5. A
6. B
7. A
8. A
9. A
10. A
1. Tires
2. Cooling System Flush
3. Early Warning Device
4. Memorandum Circular N. VPT-2012-1609 or the revised rules on the
implementation of the Early Warning Device (EWD).
5. Battery
6. Self
7. Tools
8. Gas
9. Air
10. Horn
Performance Test
Specific Instruction for the Candidate
Qualification
DRIVING NC II
Unit of Competency
General Instruction: Follow the standard procedure in conducting vehicle pre-starting and warm-up.
Specific Instruction:
List of Tools:
List of Equipment:
1. Private Car
2. Owner Type Jeep/PUJ/PUV
3. Taxi Cab
List of Materials:
• Rags
• Fan Belts
• Wheel Cap
• Fuse
• Electrical Tapes
• Brake Fluid
• Motor Oil
• Spare Tire
Performance Criteria Checklist for Performance Test
CRITERIA
Did you….
YES
NO
Satisfactory response
Extension/Reflection Questions
Yes
No
1. Before checking your vehicle, what is the first thing you will ensure in the station you are using?
❑
❑
2. Why is it important to know the simple way of checking you vehicle?
❑
❑
Safety Questions
❑ Satisfactory
❑ Not Satisfactory
Expected Answer for Questioning Tool
Questions to probe the candidate’s underpinning knowledge
Satisfactory response
Extension/Reflection Questions
Yes
No
1. Before proceeding to other ways of checking your vehicle, check first the light if it is functional then
you will therefore conclude that the battery is functional.
❑
❑
2. Knowing the simplest way in checking your vehicle gives an immediate diagnosis so that you can
immediately resolve the problem on your own
❑
❑
Safety Questions
❑ Satisfactory
❑ Not Satisfactory
Information Sheet 1.1.1
PARTS AND FUNCTION OF LIGHT VEHICLE
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to: Identify different parts of the light
vehicle
Know the functions of the different parts of the light vehicle
Identifying Parts And Function Of Light Vehicle
The vehicle unit must be cleaned based on the prescribed procedures set using the appropriate cleaning
supplies , cleaning tools and equipment,. Routine check on vehicle components like battery, tire, air
pressure, water level , light, horns mirrors and break fluids. It is also needed to do minor routine repair
that includes lights, fan belts, fuse, side mirror, coolant hose and break pads. The used of personal
protective equipment and proper disposal of wastes must also be observed.
Procedure
In order for the light vehicle unit to be cleaned as per prescribed using appropriate cleaning materials,
tools and equipment the following must be done:
Know the body and main parts of the vehicle and its function.
Body components including windows and trim
Identify Electrical and electronic parts
Charging system, electrical supple and charging system Identify Interior parts and its uses .
-Floor components and parts and car seats Know the functions of Powertrain and chassis
Brake system,engine components and parts, engine cooling and oil system, transmission
Know Miscellaneous parts Air conditioning system
PARTS OF THE VEHICLE
Body and main parts
1. Vehicle door - is a partition, typically hinged, but sometimes
attached by other mechanisms such as tracks, in front of an opening
which is used for entering and exiting a vehicle.
- A vehicle door can be opened to provide access to the opening,
or closed to secure it.
2. Power windows or electric windows as well as electric or
power window are automobil
e
windows which can be raised and lowered
by depressing a button or switch, as opposed to using a hand-
turned crank handle.
Class)
e. Vacuum f. Sponge
g. Screws h. rags
i. Buffer
Vacuum Cleaner
Vacuum cleaner is a device that uses an air pump to create a partial vacuum to suck up dust and dirt,
usually from floors, and optionally from other surfaces as well.
Brush
This tough brush has synthetic "split-end" bristles to provide extra cleaning power and still be gentle
on painted surfaces. Perfect for wheels, lower valances, big rigs, motor homes, and specially those dirty,
filthy
wheel wells.
Duster
A duster is a rod with a cloth at one end and a handle at another. It is used to clear the interior side of
the windshield of grime, dust and fingerprints. Using a regular cloth is sometimes limited due to angles
and the reach it allows. The dusting tool, however, enables cleaning to each edge of the window.
Cleaning Cloth
A microfiber or soft cotton cloth is perfect for washing away grime and buffing away streaks. It also can
be used to dust interior glass or wipe water off the squeegee for more effective cleaning.
Glass Cleaner
Glass cleaner is important to properly clean a window. Water will help clean a window but will not
fully remove the proteins from splattered bugs and oils from fingerprints. You can use one of the many
commercial glass cleaners or reuse a spray bottle and fill it with your own homemade glass cleaner.
Squeegee
After spraying the car window with your selected window cleaner, using the squeegee to remove the
liquid will produce a streak-free shine. Squeegees are made of plastic or metal with a long strip of
rubber that is dragged across the window to squeeze the water off the surface.
CLEANING MATERIALS
Self- Check No.2.1-1
Multiple Choice : Read the questions carefully and choose the correct answer from the choices given.
Write your answer in a
separate sheet of paper.
1. The vehicle cleaning materials are often called car cleaners, which of the following under this
category.
a. All purpose car cleaner c. Car wax
b. Tire Cleaner d. all of the above
2. What vehicle cleaning supplies that is not included in the following: a. soap c. conditioner
b. shampoo d. All of the above
3. Why it is necessary to clean the vehicle unit? a. To protect the one who used it.
b. It will be neat to look at.
c. in order to prevent from damages
d. All of the above
4. Example of personal protective equipment a. gloves
b. vacuum
c. mop and basket d. vehicle
5. Before you start cleaning the vehicle the first thing to do is a. Check breaks and fluids
b. Prepare cleaning materials and equipment
c. Wipe it with dry cloth
d. fuel the vehicle
1. It
a. vacuum cleaner c. duster
b. hose d.polisher 2.
3. In doing the after care of the equipment used for cleaning the first thing to do is
a. Put on protective covers like gloves or mask b. Remove linen covers
c. Pour disinfectant solution to the equipment d. Wipe it with dry cloth
is a device that uses an air pump to create a
partial vacuum to suck up dust and dirt, usually from floors, and
optionally from other surfaces as well.
replacement –
Lights and wipers are normal wear items that require periodic
a. True c. Both
b. false d. any
PARTS AND FUNCTION OF LIGHT VEHICLE ANSWER KEY NO. 1.1-2
BACAA
CLEANING MATERIALS
Answer key no.1.1-2 1. A
2. C 3.D 4.A 5. B
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
• Identify conditions the parts and functions of the vehicle and its servicng and mainrtenance
procedures
Introduction
Basic Parts of a Car and Their Functions
With an array of options available in the market, it is difficult to determine which car parts are a huge
demand for sale. It is also difficult to understand which needs to be bought or replaced a by a car owner.
Car Parts
Here is a long list of car parts that are safe for buying and should be kept handy:
•
• AC
• Suspension
• Alternator
• Brakes
• Catalytic Convertors
• Control Arms
• Cooling Fan
• Injection Pump
• Drive Axles
• Fuel Injector
• Fuel Pump
• Headlights
• Ignition Coil
• Ignition Distributor
• Intercooler
• Mass Air Flow Sensor
• Navigation System
• Oxygen Sensors
• Radiator
• Starter
• Steering Gearbox
• Steering Pump
• Steering Racks
• Struts and Shocks
• Supercharger
• Throttle Body
• Transfer Case
• Turbochargers,
• Wheel Hubs
The most common and important car parts include the following:
• Battery is needed to switch on and run the car.
• Axle is a must to keep the car rolling.
• Brakes are the key to safe and trustworthy driving.
• Pistons are a must to make the journey smooth.
• Replacing a carburetor car parts called fuel injectors do the task of transferring the fuel gas from the
tank to the engine.
• A radiator comes to rescue when the engine gets overheated.
• An AC compressor keeps one cool irrespective of the weather outside.
• Clutch helps in smooth driving.
• Radiator is accompanied by the fan to release the excess heat from the car.
• Unlike other car parts spare tire is a non- technical one. Nevertheless it is important.
• A skilled driver might not require help to change tire when necessary. All that he needs is a car jack.
• Riding down a rough pitch is unthinkable without shock absorbers.
• Transmissions are meant for taking the power generated by the engine to the wheels.
• Spark plug forms a part of ignition chamber whose function is to use an electric spark for fuel ignition.
• To keep the air inside the car clean, an air filter is irreplaceable.
• To keep the noise of the car under control car parts namely muffler is important.
• Another environment friendly part of the car is a catalytic convertor meant for reducing emissions.
• The battery of the car keeps charging even when the engine runs with the help of an alternator.
• A pressure gauge is not a direct part of a car but it helps prevention of flat tire and consumption of
excessive gas.
Car Parts
Tips to the Buyers of Car Parts
It is not easy to understand which car parts need replacement until it stops working completely. Faults
kept unattended for long may result in greater problem in a car as each part is interrelated to another.
Sometimes simply replacing a worn out car part with a new one won’t be of any help without knowing a
proper way of maintaining the same. A buyer’s guide from a reputed seller is recommended in this
regard. They not only give a detailed description of the products but also help one choose parts
according to the vehicle type. An advice booklet is also accompanied by warranty against their product
Part 1
Preparing to Wash Your Car
1. Park your car in a shaded area. If the body of your car is hot from sitting in the sun or from driving,
wait for your car to cool down before cleaning it. This may take 20 to 30 minutes.
Since heat can speed the drying time of soap and water, you want to wait for your car to cool down to
avoid soap and water stains.
2. Gather your supplies. Place two buckets, a car cleanser, a soft natural sponge or a lambswool wash
mitt, a cloth/rag, tire cleaner, soft terry towels, and car wax next to your car. These materials are needed
to clean your car’s exterior.
Gather your supplies to clean the interior as well. These supplies may include a vacuum, trash bag, glass
cleaner, upholstery foam cleanser, carpet cleaner, Q-tips, paper towels, and rags.
3. Fill two buckets with water. One bucket will be used for soaking your cloth while the other will be
used for rinsing your cloth. Fill one of the buckets with the specially formulated car cleanser per the
instructions.[2]
Do not use dishwashing detergent or hand soap to clean your car. These harsh household cleaners may
strip off your car’s wax.
Part 2
Washing the Body
1. Rinse the car with a hose. Rinse the entire surface of the car thoroughly before applying soap. Make
sure to remove loose dirt and debris to avoid scratching your car. Remove leaves, twigs, and other
debris with your hands.[3]
Set the hose on a high-pressure setting to rinse hard-to-remove dirt, debris, and grime. However, make
sure the pressure isn't too high so as not to remove your car's wax or paint.
2. Clean from the top of your car down to the bottom. And work on one section at a time. Make sure to
completely rinse each section with water after you finish cleaning it with soap. This will prevent the soap
from drying onto your car.[4]
3. Lather the soap with your sponge or lambswool mitt. Then scrub your car in a straight up and down
motion. Do not clean the car in a circular motion. Scrubbing in a circular motion can cause swirl marks.
[5]
4. Rinse your sponge often. Rinse it in the second bucket that contains water after each use. If your
sponge falls onto the ground, make sure to rinse it in the water. If not, the debris on the sponge may
scratch your car.
5. Do not let your car air dry. This can cause watermarks and streaking. Instead, use a soft-terry towel or
a chamois (synthetic or natural) to dry it. Try blotting the water instead of wiping it to dry your car.
Part 3
Cleaning the Wheels
1. Fill two buckets with water. Mix a cleaner into one of the buckets. Make sure to use a cleaner that is
safe for all wheel surfaces. Avoid caustic cleaners that contain acid, as well as dishwashing detergents.
These cleaners can ruin the finish on your wheels.[8]
One bucket will be used for cleaning and the other will be used for rinsing your sponge.
2. Soak a soft sponge in the cleaning solution. Once the sponge has soaked for a few minutes, begin
cleaning one wheel at a time from the top down. To clean small crevices, use a soft-bristled toothbrush.
[9]
If your wheels are very dirty, you may need to apply a de-greaser before cleaning them.
3. Rinse and dry the wheel. Once your wheel is clean, rinse it thoroughly with water until all dirt and
debris are removed. Then dry the wheel with a soft cloth.[10]
Repeat steps one through three for each wheel.
Part 4
Waxing Your Car
1. Cut a clay bar into three or four equal sections. Flatten one of the pieces so that three of your fingers
can hold it in place. Spray a fair amount of clay lube onto a small section of the car (24" by 24"). Then,
gently glide the clay over the lubricated section in a back and forth motion (not a circular motion).[11]
Once the clay begins to glide smoothly over the section and you do not hear or feel a roughness in the
finish, move onto the next section.
Make sure to use the clean parts of the clay on the new sections as you work.
Clay bars are used to remove microscopic dirt from your car's body to prevent scratching during the
waxing process.
2. Squeeze a quarter-sized amount of polish onto your pad. Apply the wax in a straight up and down
motion onto the body of your car. Do not apply it in a circular motion, and do not wax your windows or
the trim. Use gentle pressure when applying the wax to get a smooth, even coat.[12]
Make sure to apply thin layers of wax as opposed to thick layers. As a rule of thumb, it is better to apply
multiple thin layers than to apply one thick layer.
3. Use a microfiber-buffing towel to buff the wax. Move the towel in a straight up and down motion as
opposed to a circular motion. Use a high quality towel to prevent scratching.[13]
Before buffing the wax, you may need to let the wax dry. It depends on which formula you are using. To
be safe, follow the product’s instructions.
Part 5
Cleaning the Interior
1. Remove the floor mats. Shake them out to remove dust, dirt, and debris. Place them on the ground
for vacuuming at a later time. However, you can vacuum them right away if you want. It is your
preference.[14]
2. Remove large pieces of trash. Pick up large pieces of trash like paper, coins, pens, and other objects
from your floorboard using your hands. Place these items in a trash bag. Wear latex gloves to protect
your hands from getting dirty.[15]
Use a BBQ skewer to remove dirt and pieces of trash from small crevices like in between seats.
Make sure to remove trash from cup holders as well.
3. Spray a glass cleaner into the cup holders. Let the glass cleaner set for 5 to 10 minutes. Then use a
paper towel to clean out the dirt and grime. Use the BBQ skewer to pick out grime and dirt from any
small crevices.[16]
Alternatively, place an old sock on the bottom of a mug or travel cup. Then place the mug in the cup
holder and twist to remove dirt and grime.
4. Vacuum from the top down. Start at the top of the seats, dashboard, and console before moving to
the floor. Use the upholstery nozzle to vacuum the seats, upholstered areas, and the headliner. Use the
brush attachment to vacuum the components that contain hard vinyl, plastic, and metal such as the
dashboard and console. To clean small crevices and tight areas, use the crevice attachment.[17]
Adjust the seats backwards and forwards to clean hard to reach spots under the seats.
5. Use a carpet cleaner to clean carpet stains. Spray the cleaner onto the stain and use a stiff bristle
brush to rub it into the carpet. Be careful not to spray too much cleaner onto the carpet as this can
cause mildew if it is not dried thoroughly.[18]
Use a clean, dry towel to blot the stains and dry the area.
6. Spray a foam cleanser onto fabric stains. Rub the cleanser into the stain with a soft brush. Let the
cleanser dry. Then use a vacuum to remove it per the instructions. If the stain remains, then spray more
cleanser onto the affected area and clean again until it is gone.[19]
If your seats are leather, then make sure to use a leather cleanser or saddle soap to clean your seats, as
well as other components of the car that contain leather.
7. Use car wipes to sanitize the dashboard and console. Make sure to use specially formulated car wipes.
You can find these at your local auto shop. Use Q-tips or cotton swabs to clean small areas like radio
buttons, air vents, and panel seams.[20]
If you do not have car wipes, then an all-purpose household cleaner that is ammonia-free will do.
8. Clean the windows with a glass cleaner. Any household glass cleaner will do. Instead of spraying the
cleaner directly onto the window, spray it onto a clean, microfiber towel. Then wipe both the inside and
outside of your windows in a straight up and down motion.[21]
Roll down your windows to thoroughly clean the top section of the window.
9. Re-vacuum the car. This will remove any dirt and grime that was knocked out during the cleaning
process. Then shake and vacuum the floor mats thoroughly if you have not already done so. Place them
inside your car.
Use an odor-removal spray, like Febreeze, to remove any remaining smells from your car.
Do your own inspection. It’s basic, but give your car a once-over periodically so you catch anything that
looks out of the ordinary. Make sure all your lights are working. Check the air pressure in your tires
every month or so (and buy a cheap tire air pressure gauge and keep it in the glove compartment).
Doing so is good for your tires, gets you better mileage, and saves you money in gas if you discover that
the pressure is off. Listen for any strange sounds, inside and out. Make sure your tires have enough
tread. You can use a penny to do it, or look out for the wear indicators on the tire treads. If anything’s
out of the ordinary, don’t ignore it.
Learn to check your fluids. Even if you don’t ever learn how to change your antifreeze, power steering,
coolant, or even your wiper fluid (although seriously, don’t let someone charge you to change wiper
fluid), you should learn how to check those fluid levels. In some cases, you can see the tank level
directly, but most have gauges or dipsticks you can pull out to check current levels against a notch that
indicates optimal levels. Even if your owner’s manual doesn’t have much to say about checking your
transmission fluid or antifreeze, don’t be afraid to open the hood and see if you can find it. If you’re
running low, add more (if you can) or get it changed. Most importantly, never ignore a leak.
Inspect and get your timing and serpentine belts replaced when necessary. Many people will tell you to
get your timing belt replaced every 60,000 miles or so, and your serpentine belt replaced every 40,000
miles, give or take. Again, your owner’s manual will offer real numbers for your type of vehicle. If you
can’t find the manual, look around online. You’ll probably find the actual recommendation for your car.
Use it as a guideline, and ask your mechanic to inspect the belts when it gets time to replace them
mileage-wise. If they’re still in good shape, don’t bother, but if they’re worn out, get them replaced
before they fail. If you wait and those belts do fail, you’ll break down, and the damaged belt can damage
other accessories, making the repair even more expensive.
Check your oil and get it changed regularly. Whether your car has a dipstick to check the oil’s color and
oil level or the dipstick has been replaced with an electronic gauge, you should know how to check it.
Knowing the difference between clean oil and muddy, murky oil will save you a ton on unnecessary
changes and gives you a way to tell if something’s wrong with your engine (e.g. the oil looks terrible but
you just had it changed). It’s hard to make a universal recommendation for how frequently you should
change your oil, but the answer is—as we mentioned—in your owner’s manual. Don’t just blindly follow
the 3,000 mile myth though—for most vehicles it can be as high as 10,000 miles, depending on the oil
your vehicle calls for (something else that’s in the manual).
Check your battery and clean the contacts (if necessary). Most batteries these days don’t require much
in the way of maintenance, but you should know where it is and check it to make sure it’s not leaking
and there’s no mineral or other buildup on the contacts. If there is, clean it off with a battery cleaning
brush. It will set you back a couple of bucks at any auto parts or department store. Buy one and keep it
in the trunk. While you’re at it, consider buying a cheap battery tester or jump starter. You’ll never need
to call someone or wait for AAA (or a friendly passer-by) to give you a jump.
Replace your windshield wipers when the view gets streak-y. It may seem silly, but I’ve known several
people who just ignored their wipers until they got them replaced as part of a bigger job. Wipers are
cheap and easy to replace yourself. Don’t wait until you can barely see through your windshield. Your
visibility is important, and you wouldn’t wait until you saw an optometrist to clean your glasses, would
you? While you’re at it, give your windshield a good cleaning inside and out—if it’s hard to see, the
problem may be inside, not out.
Replace your cabin air filter. Replacing a cabin air filter is probably one of the easiest things you can do
to keep your car comfortable. Most vehicles make the cabin air filter easily accessible, and replacing it is
as easy as opening a box. You can get a fitting filter at any auto parts store. It may not be critical to your
car’s operation, but it’s easy, it makes the ride more pleasant, and it’s a repair you’ll never have to pay
someone else to do.
Replace your engine air filter. Getting to the engine air filter may be a little trickier depending on the
vehicle you have, but replacing it regularly is important. Your owner’s manual will give you a mileage
estimate for how frequently you should replace your engine air filter, but if you can get to it, check it. If
it’s dirty, replace it. If you drive a ton, especially in stop-and-go traffic or have a long commute, your
engine air filter may get dirtier faster than someone who drives open roads or only drives around on the
weekends. If you need help or your owner’s manual doesn’t lay out exactly how to do it (although it
should), this guide from Jalopnik can help.
Get your tires rotated and balanced, and your alignment checked. Your manual will tell you how often to
do this, and it’s important to do to make sure your tires wear evenly and your car drives smoothly. You
can make your tires—which are expensive to replace all at once, by the way, take it from someone
who’s done it several times—last much longer by getting them rotated and balanced. Your alignment is
just as important. If you’re fighting your car to keep it straight, that’s a bad situation that’s easily
corrected.
Change your spark plugs. If your spark plugs are worn out or covered in buildup, your engine isn’t
working efficiently. That can cost you money in fuel for one, but it can also lead to a breakdown. It may
sound daunting, but in some cases checking and replacing them isn’t that difficult. If you don’t feel like
doing it yourself (or it’s a big and complicated job for your vehicle), follow your manual’s
recommendation and get them changed regularly—for most standard copper spark plugs and vehicles,
that’s around 30,000 miles (but again, it varies - some iridium plugs can last up to 100,000 miles).
These are just a few things that every vehicle needs, and almost all of them are things you can do
yourself. We can’t stress enough the importance of checking your owner’s manual for anything we may
have overlooked here, or anything specific to your vehicle. If you don’t have your manual, you can find it
pretty easily online.
Heads of academic/administrative units and supervisory staff have a particular responsibility for
ensuring that all persons who generate chemical waste dispose of it appropriately. This includes the
development of waste disposal procedures, communicating local requirements to staff and students and
ensuring that appropriate training is provided. The local safety officer can also provide specific advice on
for disposing of chemical waste.
5. Further information
For further information, contact your local OH&S consultant/adviser or Occupational Health and Safety:
Proper waste disposal begins with good waste management by the researcher, including minimum
waste generation, reusing surplus materials, and recycling of appropriate (i.e., uncontaminated) waste.
The generated waste must be properly collected and stored, paying close attention to labeling,
segregating according to chemical compatibility, and accumulating in a well-ventilated location. This
location should be well labeled. Other laboratory waste items such as sharps and glass must also be
disposed of with care in appropriately labeled and compatible containers.
PROCEDURE
1. Waste Management
Users should make an effort to keep waste to a minimum. The best way to do so is by reducing the scale
of operation, which minimizes the quantity of waste generated. Whenever possible, chemicals used
should be substituted with less hazardous chemicals.
Chemical quantities should be kept to a minimum. Store only what will be used in the near term.
Besides preventing or minimizing waste generation, chemicals should be recycled or recovered for
reuse.
When waste is generated, it must be disposed of properly. Sink disposal may not always be appropriate
and may end contaminating drinking water. Alternative methods of disposal should be considered
including incineration, treatment, and land disposal. The institute's EHS office should be consulted to
determine the proper disposal method for different waste types.
2. Waste Collection and Storage
When generating or managing any chemical waste, appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE)
must be worn, and engineering controls should be implemented as necessary.
Collect and store chemical waste at or near the point of generation in a designated satellite
accumulation area. This accumulation area should be well marked for easy identification.
Chemical waste must be stored in compatible containers with closed and properly fitted caps.
Waste containers must be labeled mentioning chemical compositions, the accumulation start date, and
hazard warnings as appropriate. The institute's EHS office typically provides these required labels.
Incompatible waste types should not be mixed and should be kept separate in order to avoid any
reaction, heat generation, and/or gas evolution.
Waste containers should be stored in secondary containers in a ventilated, cool, and dry area.
In the central accumulation area, waste containers should be grounded to avoid fire and explosion
hazards.
Trained laboratory researchers who are most familiar with the waste generated should work with EHS to
ensure proper waste management.
3. Sharps Disposal - Syringes and Needles
Chemically contaminated needles, syringes, and razor blades should be disposed of inside a proper
sharps container.
Syringes or needles must never be disposed of in a laboratory waste bin or a general waste container.
4. Glass Recycling
Recycling glass is friendly to the environment as it reduces pollution caused by the waste ending up in
landfill sites. Every laboratory should have a separate recycling bin dedicated to glass.
Clean empty glass bottles and broken glassware may be recycled. To clean an empty glass bottle, it must
be "triple rinsed" with water or another suitable solvent and air-dried before disposal.
Chemically contaminated laboratory glassware such as sample tubes, droppers, and glass wool must be
disposed of as controlled waste.
Enumeration
Instruction: Give what is asked for the following statements
1. What are the parts of a car and their functions?
2. Why is proper disposal of waste important?
3. What are the advantages of proper waste disposal?
4. How do you deep clean a car? Site atleast 7.
ANSWER KEY 1.1-1
Enumeration
Instruction: Give what is asked for the following statements
1. What are the parts of a car and their functions?
- Some of the most important automobile components include the engine, gearbox parts, drive axle,
steering and suspension, brakes, and so forth. In this article, we're going to take an in-depth look at the
most important automobile components andparts, discuss their importance, as well as maintenance.
Performance Objective Given the following materials, should be able to performed in cleaning vehicle.
Supplies/Materials:
• Cleaning materials
o Soap
o Car shampoo
o Clean water
o Absorbent cloth pail
o polisher
• steam cleaner
• air compressor
• vacuum pump
• light vehicle unit
Equipment:
Steps/Procedure:
Washing the cars according to the procedures cited above on How to clean a car using appropriate car
cleaning materials.
Assessment Method: DEMONSTRATION
CRITERIA
Did you….
YES
NO
3. OSH is observed
4. Adherence to the proper massage hand