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TOP15
TECHNOLOGIES
Adopted by
BEAUTY RETAIL
April 30, 2015

TECHNICALLY BEAUTIFUL
• As  with  just  about  every  industry  these  days,  beauty  has  become  digitized,  and  beauty  is  surprisingly  
amenable  to  digital  technologies  
• Beauty,   technology,   and   science   are   colliding   and   cross-­‐pollinating,   as   technologies   from   diverse  
industries  are  advancing  beauty  
• As  the  smartphone  has  become  the  hub  of  our  digital  lives,  it  has  also  become  our  personal  beauty  
consultant  and  beauty  counter  
• Consumers   are   taking   control   of   their  own   beauty   regimens,   ordering   at-­‐home   services,   purchasing  
subscriptions,  using  at-­‐home  beauty  devices,  and  just  printing  them  with  3D  printers  

D EBO RA H W EI N S WI G
Ex e c uti ve D ir ec to r – H ea d of G lo ba l Re tai l & Tec h n o log y
Fu n g Bus i n es s I n tel li g en c e C en tr e
d ebo ra h we in s w ig @ f un g 19 37. c om N e w Y or k : 64 6. 83 9.7 017

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty  


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Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
Table of content
Executive Summary

Global Beauty Market Overview

Part I. Convergence of Beauty and Visual Media

1. Facial Mapping
2. Magic Mirrors
3. Magic Mirror Displays for Shopper Engagement
4. Color Matching Goes High-Tech

Part II. Digital Beauty Lifestyle

5. Smartphones Double as Personal Beauty Consultants


6. Social Selling Beats Online Ads for Beauty Products
7. Subscription Models
8. At-home Beauty Devices Gain in Popularity

Part III. Convergence of Science, Medicine and Beauty

9. Genetic Testing for Customized Treatments


10. Biotech Invades Beauty
11. Medical Tech in Beauty

Part IV. The Future Is Here

12. Wearable Tech in Nail Art and Makeup


13. 3-D Printing of Cosmetics
14. Organic and Environmentally Friendly Products
15. On-Demand Beauty Services

Conclusion

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty  


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Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
 

April 30, 2015

Executive Summary
As   with   just   about   every   industry   these   days,   beauty   has  
become   digitized.   The   meaning   here   is   not   that   beauty   is  
binary,   represented   with   a   one   or   a   zero,   but   rather   that   it  
has  incorporated  and,  hopefully,  become  enhanced  via  digital  
devices   and   processing   methods.   Beauty   is   surprisingly   App
amenable   to   digitization,   even   though   on   the   surface,   there  
seems  to  be  little  overlap  between  the  worlds  of  tech  gurus  
and   beauty   mavens.   A   deeper   analysis   reveals   that   the  
beauty   industry   actually   depends   on   many   technologies.   It’s  
highly   visual,   and   the   digital   realm   enables   the   easy   Au gmented
Displays
recording,   cataloging   and   manipulation   of   vast   numbers   of   Reality
images.   Beauty   products   also   depend   on   chemistry   and  
biochemistry,   areas   that   are   hotbeds   of   scientific   advance.  
And,   perhaps   most   important,   the   beauty   industry   relies   on  
fantasy   and   imagination,   and   digital   tools   are   our   primary   means   today   for   imaging   new   fantasy   worlds  
replete   with   stunning,   beautiful   objects.   In  
this  report,  we  outline  15  technologies  that  
are  driving  the  robust  growth  of  the  beauty  
market,   in   sharp   contrast   to   other   retail  
segments,  which  are  showing  slow  growth  or  
none   at   all.   Based   on   data   from   Statistica,  
FBIC   Global   Research   &   Tech   estimates   that  
the   global   digital   beauty   market   is   about  
US$50   billion   this   year   and   growing   about  
20%  annually.  
 A  second  key  topic  here  is  convergence,  also  
known   as   synergy   or   blurred   lines.   Beauty  
and   technology   and   science   are   colliding   and  
cross-­‐pollinating.  Facial-­‐mapping  technology  
used  in  facial  recognition  in  casinos  and  law  
enforcement   has   been   incorporated   by   the   beauty   industry,   along   with   image-­‐processing   and   virtual  
reality  technology  from  the  PC  and  gaming  worlds.  Computer  
graphics   tools   from   graphic   arts   such   as   color  matching   have  
been   adapted   to   the   artistic   sensibilities   of   the   beauty  
industry   enabling   the   creation   of   magic   mirrors   that   PC S
transform   the   way   we   look   and   allow   us   to   try   on   clothing   or  
makeup   virtually   as   well   as   street-­‐side   magic   displays   that  
can  interact  with  us  as  we  pass  by.  
We   love   our   smartphones,   and   they’ve   become   the   essential  
hub   of   our   digital   lives—we   use   them   to   shop,   make   BEAU TY GAMING
reservations   and   serve   as   our   virtual   offices,   as   well   as  
provide   entertainment.   So,   it’s   logical   that   they   would   also  
double   as   our   personal   beauty   consultants,   enabling   us   to  
try   on   products,   visualize   ourselves   wearing   them   in   real  
time   and,   ultimately,   purchase   them.   As   social   networks   have   created   new   trends   and   celebrities  
overnight,   they’ve   also   become   the   medium   for   determining   the   success   of   cosmetic   brands,   creating  
megabrands   virtually   overnight,   and   social   selling   has   become   a   sales   channel   of   its   own.   Retailing   has  
benefited  greatly  from  gamification,  the  adoption  of  methods  and  elements  from  the  computer  gaming  
world,  and  these  elements  are  increasingly  being  used  in  retail  and  in  marketing  beauty  products.  With  
our   smartphones,   we   no   longer   have   to   suffer   the   inconvenience   of   going   to   the   store   or   mall,   and   a  

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
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April 30, 2015


multitude  of  businesses  employing  subscription  models  have  
sprouted  up,  enabling  us  to  place  regular  orders  for  everyday  
or  even  embarrassing  or  intimate  items  to  be  delivered  to  our  
homes.   We   can   also   schedule   on-­‐demand   beauty   services  
SCIENCE from  our  mobile  device.  
Decades   of   research   in   the   biotech   field,   the   medical   field,  
and   the   sports   medicine   industries   have   resulted   in  
compounds  and  techniques  that  have  found  new  applications  
in   beauty.   These   include   products   that   have   been   customized  
BEAU TY TECHNOLOGY and   personalized   using   genetic   testing   for   optimal  
performance   and   to   avoid   allergy   irritation,   and   others   that  
make   our   skin   smoother   and   minimize   wrinkles   to   make   us  
appear  younger.  At-­‐home  beauty  devices  help  us  to  improve  
our  appearance  without  having  to  take  a  trip  to  a  doctor’s  or  
beautician’s  office.  
Finally,  other  areas  of  science  and  technology  have  permeated  beauty.  Consumer  consciousness  regarding  
what  we  put  into  our  bodies  has  made  the  natural  transition  to  what  we  put  on  our  bodies,  and  several  
companies   have   emerged   to   offer   organic   and   environmentally   friendly   products.   Technologies  
previously   seen   only   in   Star   Trek   episodes   have   migrated   to   beauty.   We   can   now   sport   wearable  
technology  on  our  faces  and  bodies  to  make  us  more  beautiful,  and  if  a  store  is  out  of  a  particular  color  of  
makeup,  we  can  just  replicate  our  desired  shade  (using  the  correct  Pantone  color  number)  and  perform  
3D  printing  of  nail  art  and  makeup  with  our  trusty  3-­‐D  printer.  It’s  a  brave  new  world  for  beauty,  fueled  
by  technology,  and  we’re  just  getting  started!  

Global Beauty Market Overview


According   to   L’Oréal,   the   global   beauty   market   was   worth   approximately   $239   billion   in   2014   (€180  
billion)  and  grew  at  a  3.8%  compound  annual  growth  rate  from  2004  through  2014.  FBIC  Global  Retail  &  
Technology  estimates  that  the  retail  market  is  actually  worth  almost  twice  as  much,  about  $480  billion.  

Figure  1.  Global  Beauty  Market  (Millions)  


300  
EUR   Converted  to  USD  

250   $239  
$231  
$223  
$213   $215  
$204   $203  
$193  
200  
€174   €180  
$169   €167  
$154   $159   €160  
€147   €153  
150   €141   €145  
€135  
€124   €128  

100  

50  

0  
2004   2005   2006   2007   2008   2009   2010   2011   2012   2013   2014  
 
Source:  L’Oréal  and  OANDA.com  

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


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April 30, 2015


The  Asia-­‐Pacific  region  is  the  largest  beauty  market—it  constituted  35%  of  the  global  market  in  2014.  It  
was  also  the  fastest-­‐growing  market  last  year,  up  9.6%.  Western  Europe  and  North  America  are  roughly  
similar   in   size,   and   they   represented   22%   and   21%   of   the   beauty   market,   respectively,   in   2014.   Latin  
America   accounted   for   13%   of   the   global   market   in   2014,   while   Eastern   Europe   represented   7%,   and  
declined   by   7.8%   during   the   year.   Africa   and   the   Middle   East   represented   less   than   3%   of   the   global  
market  and  grew  by  3.6%  in  2014.  
 

Figure  2.  2014  Beauty  Market:  Geographical  Breakdown  

3%  
Asia-­‐Pacific  
7%  
Western  Europe  
13%   35%  
North  America  

Lagn  America  

21%   Eastern  Europe  

22%   Africa,  Middle  East  

 
Source:  L’Oreal  

Skincare   was   the   largest   beauty   category   in   2014,   representing   35%   of   the   industry   total,   or   $84.3   billion.  
Haircare  was  the  second-­‐largest  category,  at  23%,  or  nearly  $55  billion.  Makeup  represented  about  17%  
of  the  2014  market,  or  nearly  $40  billion,  and  fragrances  nearly  13%,  or  about  $31  billion.  Finally,  hygiene  
products   and   other   categories   represented   11%   and   1%   (nearly   $26   and   $3   billion)   of   the   market,  
respectively.    
 

Figure  3.  2014  Beauty  Market:  Breakdown  by  Product  

1%   Skincare  
11%   Haircare  

Make-­‐up  
35%  
13%  
Fragrances  

Hygiene  Products  

Other  
17%  

23%  

 
Source:  L’Oreal  

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


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April 30, 2015

PART I – CONVERGENCE OF BEAUTY AND VISUAL MEDIA


1. Facial Mapping
Although   facial   recognition   has   well-­‐publicized   uses   in   casino  
security   and   law   enforcement,   the   technology   is   increasingly   being  
used   in   beauty,   medicine   and   even   finance.   In   the   scientific   arena,  
there  has  been  a  great  deal  of  research  devoted  to  beauty  and  the  
modeling   and   rendering   of   realistic-­‐appearing   clothing,   human   hair  
and  skin  texture  (including  wrinkles).  In  beauty,  facial  modeling  and  
simulation  have  largely  been  used  for  virtual  makeovers  and  to  allow  
users  to  virtually  “try  on”  products.  
Virtual  Makeovers  and  Try-­‐Ons  
The   main   application   for   facial   mapping   and   simulation   is   to   model  
the  appearance  of  various  cosmetics,  which  eliminates  the  need  for  
an   often   messy   and   unhygienic   situation   at   the   department   store   counter.   Software   that   allows   such  
modeling  has  been  developed  for  smartphones,  tablets,  web  browsers  and  dedicated  beauty  appliances.  
ModiFace   is   a   Toronto-­‐based  
company   with   a   background   in  
building   2-­‐D   and   3-­‐D   facial  
simulations   for   cosmetic   surgeons.  
It   claims   that   its   technology   is   used  
in   more   than   150   web   and   mobile  
apps   that   have   been   downloaded  
more   than   50   million   times.   The  
company   sells   a   complete   Mirror  
package,   including   an   iPad   loaded  
with  its  software,  for  $2,000.  
In   2013,   ModiFace   launched   the  
Vogue   Makeup   Simulation   iPhone  
app   in   Japan.   The   app   enables   the  
user  to  try  on  hundreds  of  cosmetic  
products   from   popular   brands   that   include   ADDICTION,   Chicca,   Clinique,   Estée   Lauder,   RMK,   Shiseido   and  
Shu  Uemura.  Once  the  user  is  done  with  her  makeover,  she  can  purchase  products  on  her  phone  or  share  
the  results  via  Facebook,  Twitter  or  email.  
L’Oréal  Makeup  Genius,  launched  
in   June   2014,   is   a   free   virtual-­‐
makeup-­‐testing   app   for   iOS  
devices   that   enables   users   to   try  
on   and   buy   various   combinations  
of  makeup  as  well  as  the  curated  
looks   of   selected   celebrities.   The  
app  was  developed  in  conjunction  
with   Image   Metrics,   a   developer  
of   facial-­‐recognition   software   for  
video  games.  

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


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April 30, 2015


Facial   mapping   and   augmented   reality   have   been   used   in   haircare   and   nailcare   as   well.   For   its   Matrix  
brand,  L’Oréal  teamed  up  with  Google  Glass  (which  is  currently  on  hiatus)  to  provide  in-­‐depth  hair-­‐styling  
tutorials   offered   from   the   stylist’s   point  
of   view.   Colorist   Madison   Reed   offers   a  
voice-­‐operated   virtual   reality   app   that  
lets   users   shop   for   the   best   hair   color   and  
guides   them   through   the   process   of  
either   touching   up   their   gray   hair   or  
performing  a  salon-­‐quality  coloring.  
And  Maybelline  created  a  demo  with  the  
makers   of   UK-­‐based   image-­‐recognition  
and  augmented  reality  app  Blippar.  With  
it,   consumers   can   take   a   photo   of   their  
own   nails,   decorated   with   Maybelline’s  
Color  Show  Nail  Lacquer,  and  then  upload  
the   images   to   social   media   networks,  
including   Pinterest,   Facebook   and  
Twitter.  
 

2. Magic Mirrors
The   magic   mirror   started   as   an  
augmented   reality   tool   that   shoppers  
could   use   to   virtually   try   on   different  
clothing  items;  the  mirror  was  outfitted  
with   sensors   that   enabled   a   motion-­‐
triggered   virtual   change   of   clothing.  
When   the   customer   moved   her   arm,  
she   would   see   a   new   shirt   or   pair   of  
pants   superimposed   over   her   own   live  
image.   Product   information   was   fed  
into  the  mirror  from  a  linked  tablet  that  
the   customer   could   then   use   to   swipe  
through  color  palettes,  share  new  looks  
with  friends  and  even  make  a  purchase.  
Retailers   have   been   experimenting   with   magic   mirror   technologies   since   2010,   when   Macy’s   rolled   out   its  
smart  dressing  room.  Body-­‐scanning  and  measurement  devices—such  as  Me-­‐Ality,  which  can  create  user  
profiles   for   better-­‐fitting   clothes   but   requires   a   scanning   machine,   and   Styku,   which   created   a   portable   3-­‐
D   body-­‐scanning   platform—have   been   interesting   on   a   designer   level,   but   not   easily   adopted   for  
consumer  use.  However,  the  basic  technology  has  spurred  the  development  of  enhanced  smart  mirrors,  
such  as  Intel’s  Magic  Mirror,  which  takes  360-­‐degree  video  and  provides  sizing  data.  It’s  being  rolled  out  
in  a  pilot  program  with  Neiman  Marcus.  Another  interesting  application  that’s  sure  to  gain  traction  for  a  
multitude   of   uses   is   facial   recognition.   ActiMirror   is   a   magic   mirror   that   employs   facial   recognition   by  
analyzing  25  facial  features  to  determine  age,  gender  and  ethnicity.  
Magic   mirrors’   uses   range   from   driving   fashion   to   enhancing   the   fitting-­‐room   experience.   The   ultimate  
goal  is  to  provide  the  customer  with  a  fully  integrated  retail  experience  while  giving  the  retailer  and  brand  
the  ability  to  pull  and  track  data,  expand  their  customer  loyalty  programs  and  better  monitor  inventory.  

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


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April 30, 2015


 
The   applications   for   this   technology   have   evolved  
over  the  last  few  years,  with  today’s  key  uses  being:    
1. Attracting   customers   with   visual   suggestions  
and   options  for  complementary  fashion,  style,  
wardrobe  or  makeup.  
2. Expediting   the   fitting-­‐room   process   and  
providing   a   hassle-­‐free   experience,   enabling  
better  customer-­‐associate  interactions.  
3. Theft   protection   (in   the   case   of   RFID-­‐tagged  
items)   and   inventory   tracking   and  
management.  
4. Data   collection   (the   most   important   thing   on  
this   list),   expanding   loyalty   programs,   tracking  
sales  and  enabling  social  media  sharing.  
While  there  are  many  variations  in  the  application  of  
this   technology,   most   products   that   use   it   can   be  
grouped   into   one   of   two   categories:   magic   mirror  
displays   and   fitting-­‐room   enhancements.   Some  
crossover  does  exist,  based  on  a  brand’s  customized  
user  experience.  

3. Magic Displays for Shopper Engagement


In   order   to   compete   with   Internet   retailers,   brick-­‐and-­‐mortar   retailers   must   make   the   shopping  
experience  more  entertaining.  While  retail  shops  have  always  created  interesting  window  displays,  they  
now   can   use   existing   large-­‐panel   LED   displays   and   new   3-­‐D   motion   detection   and/or   RFID   technologies   to  
create  immersive,  interactive  experiences.  Large-­‐scale  displays  have  been  available  for  several  years,  and  
prices  have  come  down  steadily,  making  large  panels  and  custom  displays  more  affordable.    
Moreover,   3-­‐D   motion   detection   has   moved   into   the   consumer   sphere.   Examples   include   Microsoft’s  
Kinect   technology   for   gaming   and   Intel’s   new   RealSense   3-­‐D   camera   technology,   which   was   announced   at  
the   Consumer   Electronics   Show   in   January   2015.   LEGO   installed   a   large   display   in   Chicago   that   used   a  
Microsoft   Kinect   sensor   to   sense   the   movements   of   passersby,   in   effect   creating   a   large   video   game   in  
which  people  can  participate.  By  offering  a  free  game,  LEGO  is  reinforcing  the  idea  of  the  store  being  a  
place  for  fun,  rather  than  just  a  place  for  a  dry  shopping  experience.  
Bloomingdale’s  installed  a  series  of  large  
LCD   screens   combined   with   cameras,  
each  associated  with  a  different  designer  
(Marc   Jacobs,   FENDI,   Roberto   Cavalli,  
Miu   Miu   or   Gucci),   that   let   passersby  
virtually   try   on   pairs   of   that   designer’s  
sunglasses.   The   shopper   positions  
himself   in   front   of   the   sunglasses.   If   he  
likes  the  glasses’  appearance,  he  can  hit  
the  “print”  button,  and  then  pick  up  the  
printout   at   the   Sunglass   Style   Bar,   where  
he   can   try   on   the   actual   sunglasses  
before  buying  them.  
 
 

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
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April 30, 2015


 
BMW   worked   with   Google’s  
Creative   Sandbox   to   design   a  
display   in   which   all   passing  
vehicles   along   6th   Avenue   in  
Manhattan   were   transformed  
into  either  a  BMW  i3  or  i8.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
In   its   FuelStation   interactive  
store   in   London,   Nike   used  
Kinect   to   enable   shoppers   to  
create   a   game   where   they  
jump   up   and   down   and   can  
receive   an   email   with   a   30-­‐
second  video  clip.  
 

4. Color Matching Goes High-Tech


Sephora   teamed   up   with   color   specialist   Pantone   to   create   Color   IQ,   a  
handheld   device   that   captures   color-­‐pitch   intensity.   By   focusing   on   skin  
physiology,   Color   IQ   eliminates   variables   that   distort   shade   selection.  
Unlike  traditional  cameras  that  require  ambient  light  to  take  pictures,  this  
handheld   device   takes   pictures   in   darkness.   The   technology   allows   the  
picture  to  focus  on  the  true  skin  color  and  avoid  color  distortion  by  light.  
After   they   are   assigned   a   color   IQ   number,   which   captures   skin’s   surface  
tone   and   undertone   after   the   scan,   customers   can   find   a   selection   of  
precise   foundation   products.   Pantone’s   CAPSURE   cosmetic   color   devices  
can  download,  store  and  retrieve  color  information  instantly.  They  can  be  
charged   via   a   USB   interface   and   carried   by   beauty   consultants   inside   a  
store.  
The  Pantone  Color  Institute  has  mapped  out  110  skin  tones  for  its  Color  IQ  
library.   Capturing   skin   tones   and   undertones,   Color   IQ   also   supports  
improved   foundation   matching.   It’s   only   a   matter   of   time   before   this  
functionality  is  applied  to  create  colored  cosmetics  that  complement  skin  
tones  and  apparel  choices.  
For   shoppers   who   don’t   have   time   to   go   to   a   store,   IMAN   Cosmetics   has   developed   an   app   that  
determines   one’s   “color   signature”   after   taking   a   headshot.   The   app   uses   color-­‐matching   technology   to  
analyze   the   color   of   eyes,   hair,   skin   and   lips.   After   an   analysis,   the   app   offers   a   wide   range   of   product   and  
look  recommendations.  

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
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April 30, 2015

PART II—DIGITAL BEAUTY LIFESTYLE


5. Smartphones Double as Personal Beauty Consultants
Smartphone   apps   today   are   capable   of   conducting   skin   analysis,   making   product   recommendations   and  
performing   virtual   cosmetic   testing.   Using   facial-­‐mapping   technology,   the   new   L’Oréal   Paris   Makeup  
Genius  app  turns  a  smartphone  into  a  magic  mirror.  The  app  allows  customers  to  see  L’Oréal  products  and  
view   them   in   video   in   real   time.   This   technology   is   a   step  
forward   from   previous   makeup   simulators   that   displayed  
products  on  static  pictures.  The  Makeup  Genius  app  draws  on  
a   patented   tracking   algorithm   system   that   enables   precise  
facial   recognition   via   a   live   mirror   camera.   It   can   capture   64  
facial   points   and   up   to   100   expressions   while   tracking   head  
movements  of  up  to  60  degrees.  
The   beauty   magazine   Allure   teamed   up   with   developer  
SkinBetter   to   create   an   app   that   applies   dermatologist-­‐grade  
scanning   technology   to   identify   skin   issues.   The   results   are  
available   within   seconds.   After   personal   skin   analysis,   the  
mobile   app   recommends   skin   products   based   on   the  
individual’s  needs.    

6. Social Selling Beats Online Ads for Beauty Products


According  to  Google,  50%  of  beauty  shoppers  rely  on  beauty  videos  on  YouTube  when  making  a  purchase.  
YouTube  has  helped  to  establish  the  brands  of  beauty  content  creators,  including  Michelle  Phan’s.  E-­‐tailers  
provide   beauty   products   to   website   owners   in   exchange   for   links   to   their   website.   Both   traffic   and  
conversion   rates   improved   after   the   establishment   of   this   partnership   with   YouTube:   the   site   generated  
40%  of  traffic  from  YouTube  links  and  conversion  rates  increased  to  15%.  
User-­‐generated   content   is   also   more  
effective   than   brand-­‐owned   channels.  
L’Oréal-­‐owned   brand   NYX   has   generated  
1.5  million  views  on  its  own  channel,  but  
2.1   billion   views   from   trend   influencers’  
content   on   YouTube.   And   beauty  
companies   are   keeping   an   eye   on  
celebrities’   personal   social   media   posts,  
which   can   boost   a   brand’s   visibility  
mightily.   According   to   L2,   Estée   Lauder’s  
video   of   model   Kendall   Jenner   received  
only   7,000   likes   on   the   company’s  
website,   but   more   than   429,000   likes   on   Jenner’s   personal   Instagram   page.   A   video   of   L’Oréal   ambassador  
Barbara  Palvin  received  twice  as  many  likes  on  her  own  Instagram  page  as  it  did  on  L’Oréal’s  timeline.  
Social  media  is  the  ultimate  platform  for  interacting  with  customers.  In  South  Korea,  where  smartphone  
penetration  has  reached  70%,  local  beauty  brands  are  extremely  savvy  about  social  media.  South  Korean  
cosmetic   brand   Tony   Moly   held   a   Facebook   contest   for   user-­‐generated   content   that   spurred   page   view  
growth  of  631%  year  over  year.  Another  South  Korean  brand,  Etude  House,  garnered  23  million  views  on  
its   YouTube   channel.   And   THEFACESHOP   created   an   entire   beauty   community   on   the   South   Korean  
messaging   app   KakaoTalk   that   featured   new   products,   beauty   quizzes   and   invitations   for   fans   to   test  
products.  
 
 

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
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April 30, 2015


 

 
 

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
10
 

April 30, 2015


Social   media   is   also   revolutionizing   our   perception   of   beauty.   A   survey   by   Dove   showed   that   women  
between  the  ages  of  18  and  64  are  much  more  likely  to  obtain  beauty  inspiration  from  social  media.  The  
same   study   revealed   that   the   vast   majority   (82%)   of   women   believe   that   social   media   is   changing  
standards  of  beauty.    
A   series   of   bloggers   have   challenged   orthodox   beauty   standards.   Lizzie   Velasquez   has   a   rare   genetic  
disorder  and  weighs  only  64  pounds.  After  finding  herself  in  a  video  titled  The  World’s  Ugliest  Woman,  she  
created  her  own  YouTube  channel  about  beauty  and  body  positivity.  Chantelle  Winnie  is  a  model  with  a  
discoloring  skin  condition.  Her  Instagram  account  features  professional  photos  that  show  her  natural  skin.  

7. Subscription Models
While  we  have  long  been  familiar  with  newspaper  and  magazine  subscriptions  and  companies  such  as  the  
Book-­‐of-­‐the-­‐Month   Club,   after   some   initial   false   starts   during   the   dot-­‐com   boom,   the   Internet   is   now  
enabling   a   new   category   of   subscription   businesses.   These   businesses   offer   consumers   exceptional  
convenience,   variety   and   the   thrill   of   discovery.   While   the   largest   categories   of   subscriptions   are   food,  
apparel,   beauty   products,   and   pet   treats   and   toys,   there   are   an   infinite   number   of   things   that   can   be  
subscribed  to,  including  works  of  art,  fishing  tackle,  razor  blades  and  even  jewelry  rental.  
Consumers   find   value   in   avoiding   the  
drudgery   of   shopping   for   everyday  
commodity   items   and   items   that   are  
potentially  embarrassing  to  purchase.  
They   also   appreciate   the   benefits   of  
curation   and   that   the   value   of   the  
items   received   can   exceed   their   total  
sale   prices.   Many   celebrities   have  
jumped   on   the   curation   bandwagon,  
and  it’s  possible  to  receive  a  monthly  
package   of   items   personally   selected  
by   your   favorite   actor   or   recording  
artist.   Finally,   most   people   like  
presents   and   surprises,   and   many  
consumers   use   subscriptions   to   treat  
themselves  to  a  monthly  gift.    
Technology   also   comes   into   play   with   subscription   services,   since   software   enables   consumers   to   delay,  
modify,  or  scale  up  or  down  their  orders.  And  since  subscription  businesses  are  scalable,  i.e.,  they  can  be  
started   from   one’s   living   room,   they   have   very   low   overhead.   Although   privacy   and   security   remain  
concerns—as   with   all   e-­‐commerce—the   online   subscription   industry   has   grown   to   more   than   $3   billion   in  
sales,   and   venture   capitalists   have   invested   more   than   $500   million   to   gain   a   foothold   in   this   growing  
sector.    
There   are   also   other   business   models   that   are   part   of   the  
subscription   ecosystem,   such   as   websites   for   managing   or  
curating   subscription   businesses   (one   website   alone   lists  
more   than   950   subscription   businesses)   and   software   that  
helps   manage   these   businesses.   The   success   and   appeal   of  
subscriptions   has   not   eluded   big   Internet   retailers   such   as  
Amazon   and   brick-­‐and-­‐mortar   retailers   such   as   Sam’s   Club  
and   Target.   They   are   all   offering   their   own   monthly  
subscriptions,   which   provide   a   discount   that   offsets   the  
acquisition   cost   of   new   orders.   For   those   too   lazy   to   fire   up  
their  web  browser  or  smartphone  to  place  an  order,  Amazon  recently  announced  its  Dash  Button—a  one-­‐
button,  branded  electronic  device  that  connects  through  a  home  Wi-­‐Fi  network  to  let  consumers  reorder  
beverages,  cleaning  supplies  and  razor  blades.  

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
11
 

April 30, 2015


8. At-home Beauty Devices Gain in Popularity
Home   beauty   devices   are   expected   to   be   a   key   growth   area   in   the  
future.   In   terms   of   product   categories,   hair   removal   devices   account  
for   one-­‐third   of   the   total   beauty   device   market,   followed   by   a   tie  
between   cleansing   and   antiaging   devices.   As   with   other   beauty  
products,   the   US   leads   the   beauty   device   market,   but   Asia   is   rapidly  
catching  up.  In  2013,  China  posted  92.6%  year-­‐over-­‐year  growth  in  the  
category.   With   Clinique   set   to   enter   the   market   with   its   Sonic   System  
Purifying   Cleansing   Brush,   competitors   are   expected   to   follow   suit.  
Europe’s   growth   in   the   at-­‐home   beauty   sector   is   poised   to   outpace  
that  of  the  US,  with  a  25%  sales  increase.  The  European  market  grew  at  
a  steady  14%  in  2014,  with  LED  face  masks,  skin-­‐smoothing  lasers  and  
microdermabrasion   products   proving   some   of   the   most   frequent  
purchases.  

PART III—CONVERGENCE OF SCIENCE, MEDICINE AND BEAUTY


9. Genetic Testing for Customized Treatments
According  to  a  2014  survey  by  UK  market  research  firm  Canadean,  
45%  of  UK  adults  said  they  are  interested  in  a  scientific  approach  
to  personal  skincare.  Technology  has  enabled  consumers  to  obtain  
tailored   antiaging   products   based   on   DNA   analysis.   Beauty  
technology   brand   Geneu   recently   launched   a   skincare   lab   in  
London   that   offers   skin   profiles   based   on   a   DNA   sample   from   a  
simple  mouth  swab.  Within  30  minutes,  the  lab  produces  a  profile  
detailing   collagen   breakdown,   antioxidant   protection   levels   and  
skin  reaction  to  damaging  free  radicals.  
In  the  near  future,  customers  will  understand  their  exact  skincare  
needs   and   be   able   to   select   products   that   are   right   for   them.  
Information   transparency   demands   hypercustomization   from  
beauty   brands.   French   brand   oOlution   offers   four   products   that  
are  adjustable  to  the  daily  changing  needs  of  an  individual’s  skin.  
According  to  Mintel,  29%  of  French  women  have  expressed  an  interest  in  buying  customized  hair  products  
designed   specifically   for   their   own   hair   needs.   One   company   seeking   to   meet   this   demand   is   British   brand  
Concoction,  which  says  it  is  offering  the  world’s  first  customizable  shampoo.  French  luxury  brand  Clarins  
now   offers   a   made-­‐to-­‐measure   self-­‐tanner:   its   Radiance   Plus   Golden   Glow   Booster   lets   users   drop   varying  
amounts  of  the  product  into  a  regular  day  or  night  cream.  

10. Biotech Invades Beauty


The  line  between  medical  research  and  beauty  is  blurring,  as  major  cosmetics  companies  have  begun  to  
use   biotech   materials,   genetic   profiling   and   stem-­‐cell-­‐based   products   and   therapies   for   cosmetic  
purposes,   antiaging   remedies   in   particular.   In   addition,   biotech   companies   are   increasingly   licensing  
methods   for   repairing   DNA   and   healing   wounds   to   the   cosmetics   industry.   One   major   benefit   for   the  
biotech   companies   is   that   cosmetic   products   do   not   have   to   undergo   clinical   trials,   as   drugs   do,   which  
makes  them  much  cheaper  to  develop.  Cosmetics  manufacturers  also  want  to  avoid  time-­‐consuming  and  
expensive  regulatory  processes  such  as  US  Food  and  Drug  Administration  approval.    
At  the  same  time,  consumers  have  become  more  scientifically  literate  than  they  were  a  few  decades  ago  
and,   consequently,   scientific   terms   such   as   “peptides,”   “proteins”   and   “growth   factors”   are   increasingly  
being  used  to  market  beauty  products.  Many  cosmetics  companies  are  using  compounds  from  other  areas  
of   medicine,   such   as   growth   factors   and   wound-­‐healing   compounds,   for   antiaging   and   antiwrinkle  
treatments.  
 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty
Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
12
 

April 30, 2015


 
Enter  the  Cosmeceutical  
“Cosmeceutical”   is   a   fusion   of  
“cosmetic”   and   “pharmaceutical”  
and  refers  to  cosmetic  products  that  
offer   benefits   similar   to   those   of  
drugs.   These   products   are   typically  
moisturizers   and   antiaging   creams.  
Being   able   to   offer   pharmaceutical-­‐
style   benefits   over   the   counter   is  
attractive   for   cosmetics   makers,   as  
they   can   demand   premium   prices  
there  for  these  products.  
 

11. Medical Tech in Beauty


Vaccinations   can   be   delivered   via   microneedles,   which   are   constructed   from   and   deliver  medicine   using   a  
type   of   acid.   Japanese   brands   Shiseido   and   MTG   have   used   these   minuscule   needles   to   deliver   product  
deep   into   the   skin.   The   beauty-­‐essence   liquid   and   eye   patches   developed   by   BIGENDO   also   deliver  
wrinkle-­‐targeting  ingredients  deep  into  the  skin.  
Using   induced   pluripotent   stem   cells,   it’s   now   possible   to   reduce   the   apparent   age   of   skin   by   decades.  
Kose  Corp.  is  at  the  forefront  of  this  field,  and  products  incorporating  stem-­‐cell  technology  are  expected  
to  be  out  on  the  market  within  five  years.  

PART IV—THE FUTURE IS HERE


12. Wearable Tech in Nail Art and Makeup
Wearable   technology   today   primarily   involves   apparel   and   jewelry,   but   research   is   being   done   on  
wearable  applications  for  the  beauty  industry.  Early  areas  of  research  include  nail   decoration,  tattoos  and  
conductive  makeup  as  well  as  combining  beauty  and  technology  to  empower  the  disabled.  
Nail   decoration:   Katia   Vega,   a   PhD   candidate   in  
computer   science   in   Brazil,   has   combined   nail  
decorations   with   RFID   tags,   one   for   each   finger.   The  
RFID   tags   are   effective   at   distances   of   slightly   less  
than  an  inch  (two  centimeters)  and  can  be  used  for  a  
variety   of   functions,   such   as   opening   doors.  
Moreover,  the  system  can  recognize  combinations  of  
actions,   such   as   snapping   one’s   fingers.   In   a   recent  
demonstration,   Vega   used   her   RFID-­‐augmented   nails  
to   control   the   mixing   of   more   than   25   music   tracks,  
with  her  hands  at  the  bottom  of  a  pan  of  water.  
Tattoos:   Engineers   and   scientists   are   hard   at   work   developing   flexible,   thin   circuits   that   can   adhere   to   the  
skin  like  a  Band-­‐Aid.  These  circuits  can  contain  sensors  and  conductors  that  accommodate  both  function  
and  fashion.  For  example,  startup  MC10  is  developing  smart  cosmetic  stickers  that  can  alert  the  wearer’s  
cellphone   when   it’s   time   to   reapply   sunscreen,   measure   and   report   on   the   skin’s   properties,   and  
recommend  a  suitable  moisturizer.  

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
13
 

April 30, 2015


Conductive   makeup:   Katia   Vega   is   also   a   pioneer   in  
conceiving   wearable   makeup   and   eyelashes.   She   has  
developed  an  electrically  conductive  eyeliner  and  false  
eyelashes   that   transform   normal   eye   and   facial  
movements   into   actions   that   can   be   used   to   control  
devices.   In   Vega’s   setup,   the   eyelashes   and   eyeliner  
function   like   switches,   and   a   user’s   blink   can   trigger   a  
microcontroller   that   performs   functions   such   as  
turning   on   a   light,   changing   a   TV   channel   or   even  
controlling  a  drone.  
Helping  the  disabled:  Adapting  technology  that  can  be  
controlled   by   blinking   or   eye   movements   into   tools  
that  can  empower  the  disabled  is  a  logical  next  step.  Vega  developed  a  wearable  device  called  Blinklifier  
that   transforms   eye   movements   into   visual   compositions.   Another   of   her   technologies   is   Winkymote,   a  
remote   control   designed   for   quadriplegics   that   acts   as   a   smart   IR   remote   and   can   control   TVs,  
smartphones,  keyboards  and  other  devices.  

13. 3-D Printing of Cosmetics


The  boom  in  3-­‐D  printing  has  enabled  consumers  and  ordinary  people  to  design  and  fabricate  their  own  
customized,  personalized  objects.  Innovation  in  the  world  of  3-­‐D  printing  is  continuing,  and  printers  are  
being  designed  that  use  all  kinds  of  materials  as  inputs  (such  as  paper)  and  are  able  to  print  all  types  of  
objects,   including   food.   And   the   day   is   coming   when   we   can   print   our   own   clothing.   With   the   huge  
advances  in  customization  available  through  3-­‐D  printing,  it  was  inevitable  that  the  technology  would  be  
adapted  for  cosmetics  solutions.  For  example,  many  women  of  color  complain  that  mainstream  cosmetics  
were   not   designed   for   them   and   therefore   do   not   enhance   their   beauty;   3-­‐D   printing   potentially   offers   an  
ideal  solution  to  their  needs.  
One   startup,   Mink,   has   taken   on   this  
challenge.   The   company   has   been  
developing   a   desktop   printer   with   a  
sub-­‐$200   price   tag   that   can   print  
makeup  such  as  lipstick,  lip  gloss,  eye  
shadow,   blush,   nail   polish   and   brow  
powder.   Future   versions   will   print  
foundation   and   face   powder.   The  
company   claims   the   printer   can   turn  
any  camera,  phone  or  laptop  into  a  makeup  printing  station.  It’s  targeted  to  women  ages  13  to  21  who  
have  not  yet  developed  firm  brand  loyalty.  The  launch  was  initially  scheduled  for  late  2014;  the  printer  is  
currently  available  only  through  invitation.  
Do-­‐it-­‐yourselfers  can  print  lipsticks,  eye  shadows  and  nail  polishes  at  home  using  a  home  printer  such  as  
the   HP   Officejet   6100,   a   graphics   tool   such   as   Adobe   Photoshop,   refillable   ink   cartridges,   edible   and  
vegetable-­‐based  ink,  and  blank/white  cosmetics.    

14. Organic and Environmentally Friendly Products


As   consumers   have   become   increasingly   concerned   about   chemical   additives   in   their   food,   they’ve   also  
turned   their   attention   to   additives   in   their   beauty   products.   Several   studies   published   around   2000  
showed  that  there  were  several  chemical  ingredients  in  makeup,  shampoo,  skin  lotion  and  nail  polish  that  
lacked   safety   data,   and   that   some   of   the   chemicals   were   linked   to   studies   showing   birth   defects   and  
fertility  problems.  Consumer  alertness  and  activity  has  therefore  increased,  leading  to  demand  for  organic  
and  chemical-­‐free  beauty  products.  Websites  such  as  the  Environmental  Working  Group’s  Skin  Deep  have  
emerged.   These   sites   list   products   and   their   ingredients   and   rate   them   by   their   overall   danger   level,  
cancer-­‐causing  ability,  toxicity,  propensity  for  causing  allergic  and  immunotoxic  reactions,  and  restrictions  
on  their  use  by  specific  groups.  

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
14
 

April 30, 2015


 
There   are   also   environmental   concerns   surrounding   the   packaging   of   cosmetic   products.   First,   there’s   the  
waste  aspect:  Resource  magazine  claims  that  23,000  tons  of  toothbrushes  and  2  billion  disposable  razors  
end   up   in   US   landfills   every   year.   Euromonitor   estimated   that   the   cosmetics   industry   sold   210.8   billion  
packaging   units   in   2008,   all   of   which   had   to   be   disposed   of.   This   packaging   does   not   include   unused  
product  that’s  discarded  for  various  reasons.  While  the  cosmetics  industry  has  been  slow  to  consider  the  
environmental   impact   of   packaging,   some   brands   have   made   an   effort   to   minimize   their   footprints.   For  
example,  Aveda  is  using  post-­‐consumer  recycled  plastic  and  Lush  is  attempting  to  minimize  the  amount  of  
packaging   it   uses.   The   industry   is   considering   refillable   packaging,   though   that   presents   health   and  
logistical   challenges.   And   some   Internet   e-­‐commerce   sites   such   as   The   Honest   Company   (backed   by  
actress  Jessica  Alba)  offer  subscriptions  and  sales  of  products  with  packaging  that’s  organic,  natural  and  
environmentally  friendly.  

15. On-Demand Beauty Services


Mobile   apps   enable   beauty   services   providers   to   offer   their   treatments   anywhere,   anytime.   The   US   app  
Beautified  allows  users  to  search  for  nearby  salons  and  book  last-­‐minute  appointments  using  geolocation-­‐
based  technology.  It  was  launched  in  New  York,  Los  Angeles  and  San  Francisco.  American  beauty-­‐delivery-­‐
service   company   Vênsette   is   the   Uber   of   beauty   services.   After   a   user   answers   a   few   questions   about  
makeup   and   hairstyle   inspirations   on   Vênsette’s   website   or   mobile   app,   the   company   sends   a   professional  
stylist  to  the  user’s  home  or  office  within  a  few  hours.    

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
15
 

April 30, 2015

Conclusion
The  universes  of  science,  technology  and  beauty  are  merging,  in  part  because  many  technologies  used  in  
these   areas   have   been   moving   in   similar   directions   for   years.   Specifically,   technologies   used   in   the   PC,  
display,   gaming   and   mobile   segments   have   turned   out   to   be   ideal   for   manipulating   and   displaying  
fantastic   (as   well   as   real)   images   of   beauty   and   putting   them   into   our   smartphones.   At   the   same   time,  
technologies  from  drug  discovery,  healthcare  and  sports  medicine  have  also  found  broad  applications  in  
beauty.   Finally,   concepts   previously   imaginable   only   in   science   fiction,   such   as   replication   and   wearable  
technology,   are   finding   their   way   into   beauty,   and   consumers   are   demanding   that   these   products   be   free  
of  harmful  chemicals  and  not  burden  or  poison  the  environment  when  discarded.  
 
 
Deborah  Weinswig,  CPA  
Executive  Director—Head  of  Global  Retail  &  Technology  
Fung  Business  Intelligence  Centre  
New  York:  917.655.6790  
Hong  Kong:  +852  6119  1779  
deborahweinswig@fung1937.com  
 
Cam  Bolden  
cambolden@fung1937.com  
 
Marie  Driscoll,  CFA  
mariedriscoll@fung1937.com  
 
John  Harmon,  CFA  
johnharmon@fung1937.com  
 
Amy  Hedrick  
amyhedrick@fung1937.com  
 
Aragorn  Ho  
aragornho@fung1937.com  
 
John  Mercer  
johnmercer@fung1937.com  
 
Charlie  Poon  
charliepoon@fung1937.com  
 
Kiril  Popov  
Kirilpopov@fung1937.com  
 
Stephanie  Reilly  
stephaniereilly@fung1937.com  
 
Lan  Rosengard  
lanrosengard@fung1937.com  
 
Jing  Wang    
jingwang@fung1937.com  
 

 Fung Business Intelligence Centre (FBIC) publication: Digital Beauty


Copyright © 2015 The Fung Group, All rights reserved.
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