Facing Boycotts H&M and Nike Are

Learning the New Price of Doing

Business in China
By Ian Bremmer (TIME) / 1 Apr 2021

No other country has done a better job of channeling the profit-maximizing drive of
private corporations into geopolitical gains in recent years than communist China,
the irony of which is lost on precisely no one.

The latest drama surrounds Nike, H&M and a slew of other Western clothing brands
that voiced concern over reports of widespread human-rights abuses of the Muslim
ethnic minority Uighurs by the Chinese government in Xinjiang. Multinationals work
hard to avoid getting pulled into geopolitics, but reports of labor camps out of
Xinjiang–which produces about 20% of the world’s cotton–made it much harder for
them to continue doing so. Add in the increased fervor on social media that demands
more corporations take stances on hot-button political issues and suddenly Western
companies had a much harder time avoiding the trade-off of access vs. values.

Companies like Nike have no problem jumping into the political fray in the U.S. But
how to respond when boycotts are threatened both from its customers in a free
society and from those under an authoritarian government in a country that accounts
for nearly a quarter of its global sales? Nike thought its measured responses were an
acceptable balance, not drawing too much of Beijing’s ire while also acknowledging
the concerns of Western consumers about possible labor camps. But then the U.S.–
alongside Canada, the U.K. and the E.U.–decided on March 22 to slap sanctions on
Chinese officials over the treatment of the Uighurs (the first time the U.K. and the
E.U. have leveled human-rights-related sanctions against China in 30 years). At that
point, Chinese social media dredged up Nike’s statement as proof of anti-Chinese
sentiment, leading to calls for boycotts.

HALEY’S JOURNAL READING 1

It’s unclear how successful these pressure campaigns will be, both in terms of
companies’ bottom lines and of getting them to endorse the desired political line.
The South China Morning Post is reporting that the boycott against Nike is “losing
steam.” On the other hand, companies like Skechers have pushed back in recent
weeks on claims of forced labor made by the Australian Strategic Policy Institute, an
“alternative perspective” picked up by the state-sponsored China Daily. As Twitter
can tell you, the most effective way of punishing someone is deplatforming them,
which China opted to do with H&M, scrubbing its presence from e-commerce sites
Alibaba and JD.com.

Will China do the same with Nike? Hard to say at this point, especially because
Beijing will host the 2022 Winter Olympics, less than 12 months away. Already,
some Republicans are making life difficult for the Biden Administration by demanding
the U.S. boycott the Games; others are calling for more targeted forms of boycotts
that allow U.S. athletes to compete but pressure Western companies to stay home.
In the coming months, calls like that will only grow louder, and not just in the U.S.;
the Winter Olympics heavily feature the countries most likely to speak out against
human-rights abuses–the U.S., Canada, the Nordics and others. Even if a boycott
doesn’t materialize, athletes have minds of their own, and the Olympics have
historically been venues for public protests.

If you’re Beijing, the crux of the issue is this: there comes a point where pushing
companies too hard risks their leaving altogether, which means losing whatever
influence you have over them. Beijing must ask itself: Does it want some influence all
over the world, or complete influence over just part of it? As globalization fractures
further, both countries and corporations will be forced to make decisions they had
been avoiding for decades.