Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual

HEAVY-DUTY TRUCKS SERVICE MANUAL
Models: FLA COE

FLB COE
FLD Conventional
FLL COE
STI-206, S39 (8/10P)

Published by
Daimler Trucks North America LLC
4747 N. Channel Ave.
Portland, OR 97217
Printed in U.S.A.
Foreword
The purpose of this manual is to assist the service technician when the vehicle is serviced. Major
drivetrain component service information is not included in this manual, but is located in each
manufacturer’s service manual.
Instructions and procedures are those recommended by Freightliner Trucks or the component
manufacturer.
Maintenance schedules and additional service information are included in the Heavy-Duty
Trucks Maintenance Manual.
IMPORTANT: Descriptions and specifications in this manual were in effect at the time
of printing. Freightliner Trucks reserves the right to discontinue models at any time, or
change specifications and design without notice and without incurring obligation.
Descriptions and specifications contained in this publication provide no warranty,
expressed or implied, and are subject to revision and editions without notice.
Refer to www.Daimler-TrucksNorthAmerica.com and www.FreightlinerTrucks.com for
more information, or contact Daimler Trucks North America LLC at the address below.
Environmental Concerns and Recommendations

Whenever you see instructions in this manual to discard materials, you should attempt to reclaim
and recycle them. To preserve our environment, follow appropriate environmental rules and
regulations when disposing of materials.
NOTICE: Parts Replacement Considerations

Do not replace suspension, axle, or steering parts (such as springs, wheels, hubs, and steering
gears) with used parts. Used parts may have been subjected to collisions or improper use and
have undetected structural damage.
© 1993–2010 Daimler Trucks North America LLC

All rights reserved. No part of this publication, in whole or in part, may be translated, reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Daimler Trucks
North America LLC. Daimler Trucks North America LLC is a Daimler company.
Daimler Trucks North America LLC

Service Systems and Documentation (CVI-SSD)
P.O. Box 3849
Portland, OR 97208-3849
Introduction
Descriptions of Service Publications
Daimler Trucks North America LLC distributes the following major service publications in paper and electronic
(via ServicePro®) formats.
Workshop/Service Workshop/service manuals contain service and repair information for all vehicle
Manual systems and components, except for major components such as engines, trans-
missions, and rear axles. Each workshop/service manual section is divided into
subjects that can include general information, principles of operation, removal,
disassembly, assembly, installation, specifications, and troubleshooting.
Maintenance Manual Maintenance manuals contain routine maintenance procedures and intervals for
vehicle components and systems. They have information such as lubrication
procedures and tables, fluid replacement procedures, fluid capacities, specifica-
tions, and procedures for adjustments and for checking the tightness of fasten-
ers. Maintenance manuals do not contain detailed repair or service information.
Driver’s/Operator’s Driver’s/operator’s manuals contain information needed to enhance the driver’s
Manual understanding of how to operate and care for the vehicle and its components.
Each manual contains a chapter that covers pretrip and post-trip inspections,
and daily, weekly, and monthly maintenance of vehicle components. Driver’s/
operator’s manuals do not contain detailed repair or service information.
Service Bulletins Service bulletins provide the latest service tips, field repairs, product improve-
ments, and related information. Some service bulletins are updates to informa-
tion in the workshop/service manual. These bulletins take precedence over
workshop/service manual information, until the latter is updated; at that time, the
bulletin is usually canceled. The service bulletins manual is available only to
dealers. When doing service work on a vehicle system or part, check for a valid
service bulletin for the latest information on the subject.
IMPORTANT: Before using a particular service bulletin, check the current
service bulletin validity list to be sure the bulletin is valid.
Parts Technical Bulletins Parts technical bulletins provide information on parts. These bulletins contain
lists of parts and BOMs needed to do replacement and upgrade procedures.
Web-based repair, service, and parts documentation can be accessed using the following applications on the
AccessFreightliner.com website.
ServicePro ServicePro® provides Web-based access to the most up-to-date versions of the
publications listed above. In addition, the Service Solutions feature provides di-
agnostic assistance with Symptoms Search, by connecting to a large knowledge
base gathered from technicians and service personnel. Search results for both
documents and service solutions can be narrowed by initially entering vehicle
identification data.
PartsPro PartsPro® is an electronic parts catalog system, showing the specified vehicle’s
build record.
EZWiring EZWiring™ makes Freightliner, Sterling, Western Star, Thomas Built Buses, and
Freightliner Custom Chassis Corporation products’ wiring drawings and floating
pin lists available online for viewing and printing. EZWiring can also be ac-
cessed from within PartsPro.
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 39, July 2010 I–1

Introduction
Descriptions of Service Publications
Warranty-related service information available on the AccessFreightliner.com website includes the following
documentation.
Recall Campaigns Recall campaigns cover situations that involve service work or replacement of
parts in connection with a recall notice. These campaigns pertain to matters of
vehicle safety. All recall campaigns are distributed to dealers; customers receive
notices that apply to their vehicles.
Field Service Campaigns Field service campaigns are concerned with non-safety-related service work or
replacement of parts. All field service campaigns are distributed to dealers; cus-
tomers receive notices that apply to their vehicles.
I–2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 39, July 2010

Introduction
Page Description
For an example of a Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual page, see Fig. 1.
A B C
02/11/98 D E F G f020022
A. Section Title
B. Section Number (made up of the Group Number—first two digits, followed by a sequence number—last two digits)
C. Subject Title
D. Manual Title
E. Release (Supplement) Date
F. Subject Number
G. Subject Page Number
Fig. 1, Example of a Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual Page
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 39, July 2010 I–3

Introduction
Service Manual Contents
Group No. Group Title

00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Information
01 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine
09 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air Intake
13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air Compressor
15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alternators and Starters
20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine Cooling/Radiator
25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clutch
26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Transmission
30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Throttle Control
31 . . . . . . . . . . . . . Frame and Frame Components
32 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Suspension
33 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front Axle
35 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear Axle
40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wheels and Tires
41 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Driveline
42 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brakes
46 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steering
47 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel
49 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exhaust
54 . . . . . . . . . . Electrical, Instruments, and Controls
60 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cab
72 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Doors
82 . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windshield Wipers and Washer
83 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater and Air Conditioner
88 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hood, Grille, and Cab Fenders
90 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fire Suppression Systems
91 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Seats and Restraint Systems
98 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Paint
I–4 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 39, July 2010

List of Abbreviations 00.01
List of Abbreviations
The following is a list of definitions for abbreviations and symbols used in Freightliner publications.
A . . . . . . . . . . amperes BTDC . . . . . . before top dead center DDR . . . . . . . diagnostic data reader
ABS . . . . . . . antilock braking system Btu(s) . . . . . British thermal unit(s) DDU . . . . . . . driver display unit
ABS . . . . . . . acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene C . . . . . . . . . . common (terminal) def . . . . . . . . defrost
A/C . . . . . . . . air conditioner CAC . . . . . . . charge air cooler DEF . . . . . . . diesel exhaust fluid
AC . . . . . . . . . alternating current CAN . . . . . . . controller area network DFI . . . . . . . . direct fuel injection
acc . . . . . . . . accessories CARB . . . . . California Air Resources DGPS . . . . . differential global positioning
ACPU . . . . . air conditioning protection unit Board system
ADLO . . . . . auto-disengagement lockout CAT . . . . . . . Caterpillar dia. . . . . . . . . diameter
AGM . . . . . . . absorbed glass mat CB . . . . . . . . . circuit breaker DIAG . . . . . . diagnosis
AGS . . . . . . . automated gear shift CB . . . . . . . . . citizens’ band DIP . . . . . . . . dual inline package (switch)
a.m. . . . . . . . ante meridiem (midnight to CBE . . . . . . . cab behind engine DLA . . . . . . . datalink adaptor
noon) CCA . . . . . . . cold cranking amperes DLM . . . . . . . datalink monitor
AM . . . . . . . . amplitude modulation CD-ROM . . compact-disc/read-only DLU . . . . . . . data logging unit
amp(s) . . . . ampere(s) memory DMM . . . . . . digital multimeter
AMT . . . . . . . automated mechanical CDTC . . . . . . constant discharge DOC . . . . . . . diesel oxidation catalyst
transmission temperature control
DOT . . . . . . . Department of Transportation
AMU . . . . . . . air management unit CEL . . . . . . . check-engine light
DPF . . . . . . . diesel particulate filter
ANSI . . . . . . American National Standards CFC . . . . . . . chlorofluorocarbons
(refrigerant-12) DRL . . . . . . . daytime running lights
Institute
cfm . . . . . . . . cubic feet per minute DRM . . . . . . . dryer reservoir module
API . . . . . . . . American Petroleum Institute
CFR . . . . . . . Code of Federal Regulations DSM . . . . . . . district service manager
API . . . . . . . . application programming
interface CGI . . . . . . . . clean gas induction DTC . . . . . . . diagnostic trouble code
ARI . . . . . . . . Air Conditioning and CHM . . . . . . . chassis module DTC . . . . . . . discharge temperature control
Refrigeration Institute CIP . . . . . . . . cold inflation pressure DVOM . . . . . digital volt/ohm meter
ASA . . . . . . . American Standards CLS . . . . . . . coolant level sensor ea. . . . . . . . . .
each
Association EBS . . . . . . . electronic braking system
cm . . . . . . . . . centimeters
ASF . . . . . . . American Steel Foundries ECAP . . . . . . electronic control analyzer
cm3 . . . . . . . . cubic centimeters
ASR . . . . . . . automatic spin regulator programmer
CMVSS . . . . Canadian Motor Vehicle
assy. . . . . . . assembly Safety Standard ECAS . . . . . . electronically controlled air
ASTM . . . . . American Society for Testing suspension
Co. . . . . . . . . company
and Materials ECI . . . . . . . . electronically controlled
COE . . . . . . . cab over engine injection
ATC . . . . . . . automatic temperature control
Corp. . . . . . . corporation ECL . . . . . . . engine coolant level
ATC . . . . . . . automatic traction control
CPU . . . . . . . central processing unit ECM ....... electronic control module
ATC . . . . . . . automatic transmission
control CRT . . . . . . . cathode ray tube ECT ....... engine coolant temperature
ATD . . . . . . . aftertreatment device cSt . . . . . . . . centistokes (unit of ECU ....... electronic control unit
measurement for describing
ATF . . . . . . . . automatic transmission fluid the viscosity of general EDM ....... electronic data monitor
ATS . . . . . . . aftertreatment system liquids) EEPROM . . electrically erasable
attn . . . . . . . . attention cu ft . . . . . . . cubic feet programmable read-only
memory
aux. . . . . . . . auxiliary cu in . . . . . . cubic inches
EFPA . . . . . . electronic foot pedal
av . . . . . . . . . avoirdupois (British weight CUM . . . . . . . Cummins assembly
system) CWS . . . . . . . collision warning system EGR . . . . . . . exhaust gas recirculation
AWD . . . . . . . all-wheel drive DC . . . . . . . . . direct current ELC . . . . . . . extended-life coolant
AWG . . . . . . American wire gauge DDA . . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Allison (obs) EMC . . . . . . . electromagnetic compatibility
AWS . . . . . . . American Welding Society DDC . . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Corporation EMI . . . . . . . . electromagnetic interference
BAT . . . . . . . battery DDDL . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link EOA . . . . . . . electric over air
BBC . . . . . . . bumper-to-back-of-cab DDE . . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Engines EP . . . . . . . . . extreme pressure (describes
BHM . . . . . . . bulkhead module DDEC . . . . . Detroit Diesel Electronic an antiwear agent added to
BOM . . . . . . . bill of material (engine) Control some lubricants)
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 38, July 2009 050/1

00.01 List of Abbreviations
EPA . . . . . . . Environmental Protection HEPA . . . . . . high-efficiency particulate air LH . . . . . . . . . left-hand

Agency (filter) LH DR . . . . . left-hand drive
EPS . . . . . . . engine position sensor HEST . . . . . . high exhaust system LHK . . . . . . . liters per hundred kilometers
ESD . . . . . . . electrostatic discharge temperature
LHS . . . . . . . low-hydrogen steel
ESS . . . . . . . engine syncro shift HEV . . . . . . . hybrid electric vehicle
LIN . . . . . . . . Local Interconnect Network
(transmission) HFC . . . . . . . hydrogenated fluorocarbons
(refrigerant-134a) LLC . . . . . . . limited liability company
etc. . . . . . . . . et cetera (and so forth)
hp . . . . . . . . . horsepower L/min . . . . . . liters per minute
ETEC . . . . . . electronic truck engine control
hp . . . . . . . . . high pressure LPG . . . . . . . liquefied petroleum gas
EUI . . . . . . . . electronic unit (fuel) injectors
HRC . . . . . . . Rockwell "C" hardness LSD . . . . . . . low-side driver
EXM . . . . . . . (chassis) expansion module
hr(s) . . . . . . . hour(s) LVD . . . . . . . low-voltage disconnect
FAS . . . . . . . Freightliner air suspension
HSD . . . . . . . high-side driver m . . . . . . . . . . meters
FET . . . . . . . . field effect transistor
htr. . . . . . . . . heater max. . . . . . . . maximum
Fig. . . . . . . . . figure
HVAC . . . . . . heating, ventilating, and air M-B . . . . . . . . Mercedes-Benz
fl oz . . . . . . . fluid ounces
conditioning MESA . . . . . Mining Enforcement Safety
FLA . . . . . . . post-1984 advancements Act
Freightliner COE H/W . . . . . . . hardware
Hz . . . . . . . . . hertz mfr. . . . . . . . . manufacturer
FLB . . . . . . . enhanced Freightliner FLA
COE ICU . . . . . . . . instrumentation control unit mi . . . . . . . . . miles
FLC . . . . . . . steel-cab Freightliner 112 i.d. . . . . . . . . . inside diameter MID . . . . . . . . message identifier
Conventional ID . . . . . . . . . . identification MIL . . . . . . . . military specification
FLD . . . . . . . post-1984 advancements IFI . . . . . . . . . Industrial Fasteners Institute min. . . . . . . . minutes
Freightliner 112/120 min. . . . . . . . minimum
aluminum-cab Conventional IFS . . . . . . . . independent front suspension
IGN . . . . . . . . ignition misc. . . . . . . miscellaneous
FM . . . . . . . . . frequency modulation
ILB . . . . . . . . intelligent lightbar mL . . . . . . . . milliliters
FMCSA . . . . Federal Motor Carrier Safety
Administration ILO . . . . . . . . in lieu of (in the place of) mm . . . . . . . . millimeters
FMEA . . . . . failure mode effects analysis in . . . . . . . . . . inches mod. . . . . . . module
FMI . . . . . . . . failure mode indicator in3 . . . . . . . . . cubic inches mpg . . . . . . . miles per gallon
FMSI . . . . . . Friction Materials Standards Inc. . . . . . . . . incorporated mph . . . . . . . miles per hour
Institute inH2O . . . . . inches of water MSF . . . . . . . modular switch field
FMVSS . . . . Federal Motor Vehicle Safety inHg . . . . . . . inches of mercury MSHA . . . . . Mining Safety and Health
Standard Administration
I/O . . . . . . . . . input/output
FRP . . . . . . . fiberglass reinforced plastic MVDA . . . . . Motor Vehicle Dealers
IP . . . . . . . . . . instrument panel Association
FSA . . . . . . . field service authorization
ISO . . . . . . . . International Organization for n .......... negative (front axle wheel
FSM . . . . . . . fleet service manager Standardization alignment specification)
ft . . . . . . . . . . feet IVS . . . . . . . . idle validation switch N .......... nitrogen
ft3 . . . . . . . . . cubic feet k . . . . . . . . . . . kilo (1000) N/A . . . . . . . . not applicable
ft3/min . . . . . cubic feet per minute kg . . . . . . . . . kilograms N·cm . . . . . . Newton-centimeters
FTL . . . . . . . . Freightliner km . . . . . . . . . kilometers NC . . . . . . . . . normally closed (terminal or
F.U.E.L. . . . . fuel usage efficiency level km/h . . . . . . . kilometers per hour switch)
g . . . . . . . . . . grams kPa . . . . . . . . kilopascals NHTSA . . . . National Highway Traffic
gal . . . . . . . . . gallons kW . . . . . . . . kilowatts Safety Administration
GAWR . . . . . gross axle weight rating L .......... liters NIOSH . . . . . National Institute for
GL . . . . . . . . . gear lubricant Occupational Safety and
lb . . . . . . . . . . pounds Health
GND . . . . . . . ground LBCU . . . . . . lightbar control unit NLGI . . . . . . National Lubricating Grease
gpm . . . . . . . gallons per minute lbf·ft . . . . . . . pounds force feet Institute
GPS . . . . . . . global positioning system lbf·in . . . . . . pounds force inches N·m . . . . . . . . Newton-meters
GVWR . . . . . gross vehicle weight rating LCD . . . . . . . liquid crystal display NO . . . . . . . . normally open (terminal or
HCOE . . . . . high cab over engine LCOE . . . . . . low cab over engine switch)
HCU . . . . . . . hydraulic control unit LED . . . . . . . light-emitting diode NOAT . . . . . . Nitrited Organic Acid
HD . . . . . . . . . heavy-duty Technology
050/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 38, July 2009

List of Abbreviations 00.01
no. . . . . . . . . number PTP . . . . . . . powertrain protection SPACE . . . . seat pretensioner activation

NPT . . . . . . . national pipe thread pvc . . . . . . . . polyvinyl chloride for crash survival
enhancement
NPTF . . . . . . national pipe thread fitting PWM . . . . . . pulse width modulation
SPG . . . . . . . special purpose grease
NT . . . . . . . . . nylon tube or nylon tubing pwr . . . . . . . . power
SPN . . . . . . . suspect parameter number
NTSB . . . . . . National Transportation qt . . . . . . . . . . quarts
Safety Board sq in . . . . . . square inches
qty. . . . . . . . . quantity
OAT . . . . . . . Organic Acid Technology SRS . . . . . . . synchronous reference
R & O . . . . . rust inhibitors and oxidants sensor
obs . . . . . . . . obsolete R–12 . . . . . . refrigerant-12 (CFC) SRT . . . . . . . standard repair time
OC . . . . . . . . open circuit R–134a . . . . refrigerant-134a (HFC) SSD . . . . . . . side sensor display
OCV . . . . . . . open circuit voltage RAM . . . . . . . random access memory SSID . . . . . . . smart switch identification
o.d. . . . . . . . . outside diameter RC . . . . . . . . . reserve capacity SST . . . . . . . stainless steel
O.D. . . . . . . . overdrive recirc. . . . . . recirculation std. . . . . . . . . standard
OEM . . . . . . . original equipment Ref(s). . . . . . reference(s)
manufacturer S/W . . . . . . . . software
regen . . . . . . regeneration SW . . . . . . . . switch
OSHA . . . . . Occupational Safety and
Health Administration RFI . . . . . . . . radio frequency interference TAM . . . . . . . thermocouple amplifier
oz . . . . . . . . . ounces RH . . . . . . . . . right-hand module
ozf·in . . . . . . ounces force RH DR . . . . . right-hand drive TBS . . . . . . . turbo boost sensor
inches R/I . . . . . . . . . removal and installation TCU . . . . . . . transmission control unit
p . . . . . . . . . . positive (front axle wheel RMA . . . . . . . return material authorization TDC . . . . . . . top dead center
alignment specification) ROM . . . . . . . read-only memory TDR . . . . . . . technician diagnostic routine
PACE . . . . . . programmable electronically rpm . . . . . . . . revolutions per minute temp . . . . . . temperature
controlled engine
R/R . . . . . . . . removal and replacement TIG . . . . . . . .
tungsten inert gas
PAG . . . . . . . polyalkylene glycol (oil)
RSG . . . . . . . road speed governor TIR . . . . . . . .
total indicator reading
parm . . . . . . parameter
RSM . . . . . . . regional service manager TPMS . . . . . . tire pressure monitoring
PC . . . . . . . . . personal computer system
RTV . . . . . . . room temperature vulcanizing
PCB . . . . . . . printed circuit board TPS . . . . . . . thermal protection switch
RV . . . . . . . . . recreational vehicle
PDC(s) . . . . parts distribution center(s) TPS . . . . . . . throttle position sensor
SA . . . . . . . . . source address
PDM . . . . . . . power distribution module TRS ....... timing reference sensor
SAE . . . . . . . Society of Automotive
PEC . . . . . . . power electronics carrier Engineers TSO ....... truck specification order
PEEC . . . . . . programmable electronic SB . . . . . . . . . service bulletin TSU ....... transmission shift unit
engine control
SCA(s) . . . . Supplemental Coolant U.D. ....... underdrive
PID . . . . . . . . parameter identifier Additive(s) UNC ....... unified national coarse
PLC . . . . . . . power line carrier SCR . . . . . . . selective catalyst reduction UNF . . . . . . . unified national fine
PLD . . . . . . . Pumpe-Linie-Düse (pump- SCU . . . . . . . system control unit
line-nozzle) U.S. . . . . . . . United States
(speedometer)
p.m. . . . . . . . post meridiem (noon to U.S.A. . . . . . United States of America
SD . . . . . . . . . severe-duty
midnight) USC . . . . . . . United States customary
SDU . . . . . . . step deployment unit (measures)
p/n . . . . . . . . part number
SEL . . . . . . . shutdown engine light V . . . . . . . . . . volts
PRD . . . . . . . product requirements
document SEM . . . . . . . switch expansion module VCU . . . . . . . vehicle control unit
PSA . . . . . . . pressure-sensitive adhesive SEO . . . . . . . stop engine override VDC . . . . . . . vehicle data computer
PSG . . . . . . . pressure sensor governor SHM . . . . . . . switch hub module Vdc . . . . . . . . volts, direct current
psi . . . . . . . . . pounds per square inch SI . . . . . . . . . . service information VIMS . . . . . . vehicle information
psia . . . . . . . pounds per square inch, SI . . . . . . . . . . Système International management system
atmosphere SID . . . . . . . . subsystem identifier VIN . . . . . . . . vehicle identification number
psig . . . . . . . pounds per square inch, SM . . . . . . . . system malfunction VIP . . . . . . . . vehicle instrumentation and
gauge SMC . . . . . . . sheet molded compound protection (Kysor)
pt . . . . . . . . . . pints S/N . . . . . . . . serial number VIW . . . . . . . . vehicle interface wiring
PTCM . . . . . pressure time control module (connector)
PTO . . . . . . . power takeoff VOC . . . . . . . volatile organic compounds

00.01 List of Abbreviations
VOM . . . . . . . volt-ohmmeter
VRS . . . . . . . variable resistance sensor
VSG . . . . . . . variable speed governor
VSS . . . . . . . vehicle speed sensor
VSU . . . . . . . vehicle security unit
WB . . . . . . . . wire braid
WI . . . . . . . . . work instructions
WIF . . . . . . . . water-in-fuel
WOT . . . . . . . wide open throttle
– . . . . . . . . . . . minus or negative
+ . . . . . . . . . . . plus or positive
± . . . . . . . . . . . plus-or-minus
> . . . . . . . . . . . greater than
< . . . . . . . . . . . less than
x . . . . . . . . . . . by (used in fastener size
descriptions)
" . . . . . . . . . . . inches
° . . . . . . . . . . . degrees (of an angle)
°C . . . . . . . . . degrees Celsius (centigrade)
°F . . . . . . . . . . degrees Fahrenheit
# ........... number
% .......... percent
& .......... and
© .......... copyright
™ . . . . . . . . . . trademark
® . . . . . . . . . . . registered trademark

Metric/U.S. Customary Conversion Chart 00.02
General Information
U.S. Customary to Metric Metric to U.S. Customary

Multiply Multiply
When You Know To Get When You Know To Get
By By
Length
inches (in) 25.4 millimeters (mm) 0.03937 inches (in)
inches (in) 2.54 centimeters (cm) 0.3937 inches (in)
feet (ft) 0.3048 meters (m) 3.281 feet (ft)
yards (yd) 0.9144 meters (m) 1.094 yards (yd)
miles (mi) 1.609 kilometers (km) 0.6215 miles (mi)
Area
square inches (in2) 645.16 square millimeters (mm2) 0.00155 square inches (in2)
square inches (in2) 6.452 square centimeters (cm2) 0.15 square inches (in2)
square feet (ft2) 0.0929 square meters (m2) 10.764 square feet (ft2)
Volume
cubic inches (in3) 16387.0 cubic millimeters (mm3) 0.000061 cubic inches (in3)
cubic inches (in3) 16.387 cubic centimeters (cm3) 0.06102 cubic inches (in3)
cubic inches (in3) 0.01639 liters (L) 61.024 cubic inches (in3)
fluid ounces (fl oz) 29.54 milliliters (mL) 0.03381 fluid ounces (fl oz)
pints (pt) 0.47318 liters (L) 2.1134 pints (pt)
quarts (qt) 0.94635 liters (L) 1.0567 quarts (qt)
gallons (gal) 3.7854 liters (L) 0.2642 gallons (gal)
cubic feet (ft3) 28.317 liters (L) 0.03531 cubic feet (ft3)
cubic feet (ft3) 0.02832 cubic meters (m3) 35.315 cubic feet (ft3)
Weight/Force
ounces (av) (oz) 28.35 grams (g) 0.03527 ounces (av) (oz)
pounds (av) (lb) 0.454 kilograms (kg) 2.205 pounds (av) (lb)
U.S. tons (t) 907.18 kilograms (kg) 0.001102 U.S. tons (t)
U.S. tons (t) 0.90718 metric tons (t) 1.1023 U.S. tons (t)
Torque/Work Force
inch-pounds (lbf·in) 11.298 Newton-centimeters (N·cm) 0.08851 inch-pounds (lbf·in)
foot-pounds (lbf·ft) 1.3558 Newton-meters (N·m) 0.7376 foot-pounds (lbf·ft)
Pressure/Vacuum
inches of mercury (inHg) 3.37685 kilo Pascals (kPa) 0.29613 inches of mercury (inHg)
pounds per square inch (psi) 6.895 kilo Pascals (kPa) 0.14503 pounds per square inch (psi)
Then Multiply Then

When You Know Subtract To Get When You Know To Get
Divide By By Add
degrees Fahrenheit (°F) 32 1.8 degrees Celsius (°C) 1.8 32 degrees Fahrenheit (°F)
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 32, January 2006 050/1

Vehicle Receipt, Storage, and Pre-Delivery Information 00.03
General Information
Vehicle Receipt
Prior to signing for vehicle delivery from a transporter
company, the dealer is responsible for checking for
transporter-related shortages or damages, and noting
these discrepancies on the transporter’s delivery re-
ceipt.
The dealer is also responsible for ensuring that the
vehicle was built according to the Truck Sales Order/
Invoice.
Refer to Section 3 of the Daimler Trucks North
America LLC Warranty Manual for details.
Vehicle Storage
There may be times when a vehicle is stored for long
periods before customer delivery. To protect all ve-
hicles from deterioration and weather, they must be
properly maintained. Adequate protection and stor-
age of new vehicles is the responsibility of the
dealer.
Claims arising from loss and damage to improp-
erly stored vehicles will not be reimbursed.
See Section 3 of the Daimler Trucks North America
LLC Warranty Manual for instructions on storage of
new vehicles.
Pre-Delivery Information
All pre-delivery inspections and services must be
performed at an authorized Daimler Trucks North
America LLC facility, assigned to fully qualified ser-
vice personnel and recorded on the "New Vehicle
Pre-Delivery Inspection" form.
Refer to Section 3 of the Daimler Trucks North
America LLC Warranty Manual for details.
It is recommended the pre-delivery inspection be per-
formed within 30 days of vehicle receipt.

Hoses and Electrical Wiring Routing Standards
Cooling System 8. HVAC hoses must be routed at least six inches

(152 mm) from a heat source if the heat source
does not have a heat shield. If a heat shield is
1. Cooling system hoses must clear all moving
provided, the hose must be routed at least three
parts by a minimum of 1/4 inch (6 mm).
inches (76 mm) from the heat source.
2. The 1-inch (25-mm) hose from the surge tank to
9. HVAC hoses should be clamped every 12 to 18
the engine must be free of sumps and have al-
inches (305 to 457 mm).
lowance for engine torque.
10. All HVAC hoses must be routed so that regularly
3. Cooling system hoses should not be twisted or
serviced components, such as fuel filters, fuel/
kinked.
water separators, oil filters, air filters, belts, and
4. Cooling system hoses must be routed at least six fill and drain plugs, are readily accessible for ad-
inches (152 mm) from a heat source if the heat justment or replacement without the need to relo-
source does not have a heat shield. If a heat cate or remove the hoses.
shield is provided, the hose must be routed at
11. All Conventional sleeper heater hoses must be
least three inches (76 mm) from the heat source.
protected with convoluted tubing when they pass
through the crossmember, and at the lower
HVAC System frame rail flange.
12. Hose supports for Conventional sleeper heater
1. Cushion clamps are required to support all A/C
hoses will be where the brackets are located.
lines. Butterfly or figure-8 clamps (two cushion
clamps) may be used to prevent rubbing or chaf-
ing. Auxiliary Heater
2. Tie straps may only be used to fasten together
A/C lines that are parallel to each other. No additional tie straps or tape are needed when
convoluted tubing is installed where the auxiliary
3. Heater hoses that are protected with convoluted heater hose routes past the edge of the frame rail.
tubing may be fastened with tie straps. If not pro-
tected with convoluted tubing, only cushion
clamps or butterfly clamps may be used for
Engine Plumbing
heater hoses.
1. On vehicles equipped with the Cummins M-11
4. A/C lines cannot be secured to air lines, fuel engine and power steering, no additional tie
lines, or electrical wires. straps or tape are needed if convoluted tubing is
installed on the power steering hose where it
5. HVAC hoses should be protected from damage routes under the frame rail.
by routing them away from hazards of heat,
wheel splash (water, gravel, ice), human traffic, 2. The engine oil pressure line should not rub or
and moving parts of the vehicle. chafe against the Teflon® discharge line.
6. HVAC hoses should be routed away from sharp
points and edges (such as nuts, bolts, brackets, Electrical Wiring
and frame rail edges), moveable parts, and
sources of abrasion, cutting, pinching, or crush- 1. Wires that are bundled together should be fas-
ing. tened at 8- to 12-inch (203- to 305-mm) intervals.
If anchor clamps are more than 12 inches (305
NOTE: If hoses are covered with convoluted mm) apart, a tie strap must be used between the
tubing, they may touch any of the above. anchor clamps.
7. Hoses that are protected with convoluted tubing 2. Bundles of wires that are located in an exposed
may come in contact with the bends on frame area, such as under the cab or outside the frame
rails and filters. rail, need to be fastened with heavy-duty cable
ties.

00.03 Vehicle Receipt, Storage, and Pre-Delivery Information
3. Any wiring that will be exposed to water or heat 2. Battery cables and electrical wiring cannot be
must be covered with either loom or convoluted tied or secured to fuel lines, discharge lines, or
tubing. Loom or convoluted tubing need not butt air lines.
up against Weather Pack® connectors.
3. Battery cables must have support brackets no
4. Any wiring routed across the vehicle, on the en- more than 30 inches (762 mm) apart. Tie straps
gine crossmember, or across the rear of the en- must be within six inches (152 mm) of both sides
gine, must be secured with a clamp or tie strap, of the support brackets, and every 12 inches
and covered with either convoluted tubing or a (305 mm) between the brackets.
loom.
4. Battery cables must have convoluted tubing from
5. Any wiring that may come into contact with sharp the frame bracket to the batteries, and from the
points and edges (such as nuts, bolts, brackets, frame bracket to the starter.
and frame rail edges), moveable parts, and
sources of abrasion, cutting, pinching, or crush- Fuel Lines
ing, must be protected by either a loom or con-
voluted tubing.
1. Fuel lines must not be clamped to A/C lines, bat-
6. Unprotected breakouts (individual wires) of up to tery cables, jumper cables, or any other electrical
eight inches (203 mm) are acceptable as long as wiring.
these wires are routed safely away from sharp
2. Stand-off brackets or clamps may be used to
points and edges, moveable parts, and sources
prevent fuel lines from rubbing against the frame.
of abrasion, cutting, pinching, or crushing.
3. Fuel lines must be routed at least six inches (152
7. Gray, flame-retardant convoluted tubing may be
mm) from a heat source. If a heat shield is pro-
used to protect wiring in the cab or the chassis.
vided, the fuel line must be at least three inches
Black nylon convoluted tubing may only be used
(76 mm) from the heat source.
in the chassis.
4. Fuel lines that are parallel may be fastened to-
8. All wiring must be routed so that regularly ser-
gether. Fuel lines that cross or that rub on metal,
viced components, such as fuel filters, fuel/water
plastic, or electrical parts, need to be separated
separators, oil filters, air filters, belts, and fill and
with butterfly clamps.
drain plugs, are readily accessible for adjustment
or replacement without the need to relocate or
remove any wiring. Chassis Air Lines and Brake
9. In exposed locations, such as the road light har- Hoses
ness near the headlights, loose loops of wire
must be secured with tie straps. 1. Hoses may come in contact with each other if
they are parallel, or if they are bundled together.
10. All wiring should be routed a minimum of four
inches (102 mm) from the exhaust. In situations 2. If the hoses lie on the curve or flat surface of a
where the wiring is less than four inches (102 bracket or crossmember, they do not need con-
mm) from the exhaust, a heat shield must be voluted tubing.
placed between the wiring and the exhaust.
3. Brake hoses may be clamped at the top of the
axle housing, and touch or lie against the axle
Battery Cables housing in its path to the brake chamber as this
assembly moves together.
1. Battery cables must be routed along an unob-
structed path from the starter to the battery box. 4. Brake hoses must have slack between the last
The cables must not rub or chafe on brackets, clamping point on the frame rail and the brake
tanks, air lines, or fuel lines. chamber to allow for full range of suspension
travel.
5. Brake hoses should have butterfly clamps at
breakout points.
100/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 27, January 2002

6. Air lines and brake hoses that are bundled to-

gether should be fastened at 8- to 12-inch (203-
to 305-mm) intervals. If anchor clamps are more
than 12 inches (305 mm) apart, a tie strap must
be used between the anchor clamps. Tie straps
may be closer than 12 inches (305 mm) apart.
7. Hoses or lines that may come into contact with
the sharp edge of a bracket or frame rail are to
be protected by convoluted tubing.
8. Air lines and brake hoses that are parallel may
be fastened together. Air lines and brake hoses
that cross or that rub on metal, plastic, or electri-
cal parts need to be separated with butterfly
clamps.
9. Nylon or STX (wire braid) chassis air lines may
be fastened together to prevent rubbing, as long
as the lines are stationary.

Vehicle Identification Numbering System 00.04
VIN for Vehicles Built through April 30, 2000
IMPORTANT: See Subject 060 for the vehicle VIN as the "CHASSIS" number. The "CABIN"
identification numbering system for vehicles built number is part of the Freightliner VIN, the last
May 1, 2000, or later. six digits of which are the Freightliner serial
number.
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 115 specifies
that all vehicles sold in the U.S. be assigned a 17- IMPORTANT: A new VIN-code structure will be
character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Using used for all vehicles built after April 30, 2000.
a combination of letters and numerals, the VIN de- Character positions 1 through 4 and 9 through
fines the manufacturer, model, and major characteris- 17 are nearly the same in both versions, but
tics of the vehicle. See Table 1 for the character po-
positions 5 through 8 have been assigned
sitions of a typical Freightliner VIN,
1FUYSTEBXVPA99999. slightly different parameters. As a result, the
build date of a vehicle must be determined be-
The VIN can be found on the Vehicle Specification fore the VIN can be decoded.
Decal (see the driver’s manual for decal location)
and stamped on the left frame rail over the front axle For all vehicles, a check digit (9th character) is deter-
about 2 inches (50 mm) from the top of the web or mined by assignment of weighted values to the other
on the top flange of the left frame rail at frame sta- 16 characters. These weighted values are processed
tion 30. through a series of equations designed to check va-
lidity of the VIN and to detect VIN alteration.
NOTE: For Freightliner vehicles assembled and
sold in Mexico, the VIN appears on a plate or NOTE: Always specify the VIN when ordering
label attached to the driver’s door. Also, a data parts.
card placed in the glove box shows the Mexican
Seventeen-Character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Typical VIN 1FU Y S TE B X V P A99999
Character Position 1, 2, 3 4 5 6, 7 8 9 10 11 12 thru 17
Decoding Table * Table 2 Table 3 Table 4 Table 5 Table 6 — Table 7 Table 8 —
Code Description
Manufacturer, Make, Vehicle Type
Chassis, Front Axle Position, Brakes
Vehicle Model Series, Cab
Engine Model, Horsepower Range
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)
Check Digit
Vehicle Model Year
Plant of Manufacture
Production Number
* For corresponding decoding information, see the applicable tables in this subject.
Table 1, Seventeen-Character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (Manufacturer, Make, Vehicle Type)

Code Vehicle Manufacturer Vehicle Make Vehicle Type
1FU Freightliner, U.S.A. Freightliner Truck-Tractor
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000 050/1

00.04 Vehicle Identification Numbering System
VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (Manufacturer, Make, Vehicle Type)

1FV Freightliner, U.S.A. Freightliner Incomplete Vehicle
2FU Freightliner, Canada Freightliner Truck-Tractor
2FV Freightliner, Canada Freightliner Incomplete Vehicle
3FE M-B, Mexico (before April 1996) Freightliner Truck-Tractor
3FF M-B, Mexico (before April 1996) Freightliner Incomplete Vehicle
3AK M-B, Mexico (after April 1996) Freightliner Truck-Tractor
3AL M-B, Mexico (after April 1996) Freightliner Incomplete Vehicle
AFV M-B, South Africa Freightliner Truck
KFB AIL, Israel Freightliner Truck
RSA NAI, Saudi Arabia Freightliner Incomplete Vehicle
RSB NAI, Saudi Arabia Freightliner Truck-Tractor
Table 2, VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (Manufacturer, Make, Vehicle Type)
VIN Position 4 (Chassis, Front Axle Position, Brakes) VIN Position 4 (Chassis, Front Axle Position, Brakes)
Front Axle Front Axle
Code Chassis Brakes Code Chassis Brakes
Position Position
A 4 x 2 Truck Forward Hydraulic X 6 x 4 Truck Setback Air
B 8 x 4 Truck-Tractor Setback Air Y 6 x 4 Truck-Tractor Setback Air
C 6 x 6 Truck-Tractor Setback Air Z 6 x 2 Truck Setback Air
D 4 x 4 Truck Setback Hydraulic 1 4 x 2 Truck * Forward Air/Hydraulic
E 4 x 4 Truck Setback Air 10 x 6 Truck † Setback Air
F 8 x 4 Truck Forward Air 2 4 x 4 Truck Setback Air
G 8 x 4 Truck-Tractor Forward Air 3 4 x 2 Truck Setback Hydraulic
H 4 x 2 Truck Forward Air 4 8 x 4 Truck Setback Air
J 10 x 4 Truck All Air 5 6 x 2 Truck-Tractor Setback Air
K 4 x 2 Truck-Tractor Forward Air 6 4 x 2 Truck Setback Air
L 6 x 2 Truck Forward Air 7 Glider Setback Air
M 6 x 2 Truck-Tractor Forward Air 8 Glider Forward Air
N 6 x 4 Truck Forward Air 9 4 x 2 Truck Setback Air/Hydraulic
P 6 x 4 Truck-Tractor Forward Air 0 Glider Setback Air
R 10 x 6 Truck Forward Air * Starting August 1998.
† Through July 1998; included in code R starting August 1998.
S 10 x 6 Truck-Tractor Forward Air Table 3, VIN Position 4 (Chassis, Front Axle Position,
T 6 x 6 Truck Setback Air Brakes), January 18,1988 through April 30, 2000
U 8 x 6 Truck All Air
V 8 x 6 Truck-Tractor All Air
W 4 x 2 Truck-Tractor Setback Air
050/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000

VIN Position 5 (Model Series, Cab) VIN Position 5 (Model Series, Cab)
Code Vehicle Model, Cab Code Vehicle Model, Cab
A FLA High COE V MB60 Short Conventional (to 95MY)
B FLB High COE Legacy FL112 (00MY)
C 120 Conventional XL W FC80 Freightliner Cargo COE
D FLD120 Conventional, Highway X MB70 Short Conventional (to 97MY)
E FL50 Short Conventional Legacy FLD120 (00MY)
F FLD120SD Conventional, Construction Y MB80 Short Conventional (through 98MY)
G FL60 Short Conventional Z 112 Conventional, Steel Cab, Highway
H FL70 Short Conventional 1 FLC112 Conv., Steel Cab, Constr. (to 98MY)
J FL80 Short Conventional 2 FLC120 Conventional (to 91MY)
L 112 Conv., Alum. Cab, Hwy., 48RR94MY * FC60 Freightliner Cargo COE
Argosy High COE 3 FLD112 Conventional, Alum. Cab, Highway
M 120 Conventional, Military 4 Low COE, Aluminum Cab
N Century Class 112 Conventional 5 MB50 Short Conventional
P 120 Conv., Alum. Cab, Hwy., 48RR94MY 6 FLD112SD Conv., Alum. Cab, Construction
Columbia 120 Conventional 7 FLD120 Conventional, SilverAero (91MY)
R 112 Conventional, Steel Cab, Hwy., RH Drive FC70 Freightliner Cargo COE
S Century Class 120 Conventional 8 FL106 Short Conventional
T High COE (through 88MY) 9 RIV
FL112 Conventional * MY = Model Year
U 120 Conventional XL, 48RR94MY Table 4, VIN Position 5 (Model Series, Cab)
VIN Positions 6 and 7 (Engine Manufacturer, Model, Horsepower Range)

Engine
Code Engine Model HP Range
Manufacturer
AY Cummins NTC / N14 207–251
BD Mercedes-Benz MBE4000 353–407
BE Mercedes-Benz MBE4000 408–495
BX Mercedes-Benz MBE4000 288–352
BY Cummins NTC / N14 254–310
CX Detroit Diesel S-60, 11.1 L 331–402
CY Cummins N14 315–385
DY Cummins NTC / N14 389–475
DZ Cummins N14 476–580
EB Caterpillar C10 / 3176J 225–275
EC Caterpillar C10 / 3176J 276–335
ED Caterpillar C10 / 3176 336–407


Engine
Manufacturer
F4 Cummins B5.9 (propane) 185–224
FA Cummins 6BT 5.9 (diesel) / ISB 185–224
FB Cummins 6BT 5.9 (diesel) / ISB 225–275
FF Cummins 6BT 5.9/ ISB 153–184
FH Cummins 6BT 5.9–195G (natural gas) 185–224
FV Cummins 6BT 5.9–195G (natural gas) 126–152
GA Mercedes-Benz OM 366LA 185–224
GB Mercedes-Benz OM 366LA 225–275
GF Mercedes-Benz OM 366LA 153–184
HB Detroit Diesel S–50 225–275
HC Detroit Diesel S–50 276–335
HD Detroit Diesel S–50 336–407
JA Caterpillar CFE / 3126 (diesel) 185–224
JB Caterpillar CFE / 3126 (diesel) 225–275
JC Caterpillar CFE / 3126 (diesel) 276–335
JF Caterpillar CFE / 3126 (diesel) 153–184
KY Cummins L10 225–275
LA Cummins 6C 8.3 (diesel) / ISC 185–224
LB Cummins 6C 8.3 (diesel) / ISC 225–275
LC Cummins 6C 8.3 (diesel) / ISC 276–335
LD Cummins L10 336–407
LE Cummins ISC 336–407
LL Cummins C 8.3 (natural gas) / ISC 225–276
LY Cummins L10 276–330
MC Cummins M11 / ISM 276–335
MD Cummins M11 / ISM 336–407
ME Cummins M11 / ISM 408–495
MW Cummins ISM 496–605
NT Cummins 4B 3.9–130 hp (diesel) 126–152
PY Detroit Diesel S-60, 11.1 L 275–330
RY Caterpillar 3406 270–330
SE Detroit Diesel S-60, 12.7 L 408–495
SM Detroit Diesel S-60, 12.7 L 276–335
SY Caterpillar 3406 333–407
SZ Detroit Diesel S-60, 12.7 L 496–605


Engine
Manufacturer
TD Detroit Diesel S-55 336–407
TE Detroit Diesel S-55 408–495
TJ Dodge Magnum V8 (gasoline) 207–253
TR Dodge Magnum V10 (gasoline) 270–330
TY Caterpillar 3408 383–467
UY Caterpillar 3306 225–275
VY Caterpillar 3406 225–269
WC Caterpillar CFE/3126 276–335
WD Caterpillar C12 / 3176L 336–407
WE Caterpillar C12 / 3176L 408–495
WY Caterpillar 3306 276–335
XY Caterpillar 3406 408–495
XZ Caterpillar 3406 496–605
YY Detroit Diesel S-60, 11.1 L 225–274
ZY Detroit Diesel S-60, 12.7 L 333–407
1B Detroit Diesel 6L–71 225–275
1C Detroit Diesel 6L–71 276–335
2W Detroit Diesel S-60, 14.0L 496–605
3A Mercedes-Benz MB904 185–224
4Y Detroit Diesel 6V–92 239–287
6A Mercedes-Benz MB906 185–224
6B Mercedes-Benz MB906 225–275
6C Mercedes-Benz MB906 276–335
7D Cummins ISX Signature 336–407
7E Cummins ISX Signature 408–495
7W Cummins ISX Signature 496–605
0Y No Engine — —
Table 5, VIN Positions 6 and 7 (Engine Manufacturer, Model, Horsepower Range)

VIN Position 8 (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)

Code lb kg
A 26,001–33,000 11 794–14 968
B 33,001 or over 14 969 or over
C 19,501–26,000 8846–11 793
D 16,001–19,500 7258–8845
2 6001–10,000 2722–4536
3 10,001–14,000 4537–6350
4 14,001–16,000 6351–7257
9 N/A: Incomplete Vehicle or Glider
Table 6, VIN Position 8 (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)
VIN Position 10 (Vehicle Model Year) VIN Position 11 (Plant of Manufacture)

Code Model Year Code Plant of Manufacture
J 1988 H Mt. Holly, North Carolina
K 1989 L Cleveland, North Carolina
L 1990 M Mercedes-Benz, Monterrey
M 1991 N Mercedes-Benz, Australia
N 1992 P Portland, Oregon
P 1993 R American LaFrance, Cleveland, NC
R 1994 V Burnaby, British Columbia
S 1995 W NAI, Saudi Arabia
T 1996 Table 8, VIN Position 11 (Plant of Manufacture)
V 1997
W 1998
X 1999
Y 2000
1 2001
2 2002
Table 7, VIN Position 10 (Vehicle Model Year)
VIN Position 11 (Plant of Manufacture)

Code Plant of Manufacture
A St. Thomas, Ontario
B Mercedes-Benz, South Africa
C Gaffney, South Carolina
D Mercedes-Benz, Mexico, Santiago
F AIL, Israel

VIN for Vehicles Built from May 1, 2000
IMPORTANT: See Subject 050 for the vehicle IMPORTANT: A new VIN-code structure will be
identification numbering system for vehicles built used for all vehicles built after April 30, 2000. As
before May 1, 2000. a result, the build date of a vehicle must be de-
termined before the VIN can be decoded.
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 115 specifies
that all vehicles sold in the U.S. be assigned a 17- Character positions 1 through 4 and 9 through 17 are
character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Using nearly the same in both versions, but positions 5
a combination of letters and numerals, the VIN de- through 8 have been assigned slightly different pa-
fines the manufacturer, model, and major characteris- rameters.
tics of the vehicle. See Table 1 for the character po-
sitions of a typical Freightliner VIN, Another new feature is that each product line has its
1FUPABAV11PA12345. own model list; that is, positions 5 and 6 are will be
product-specific in the new system. For example, the
The VIN can be found on the Vehicle Specification code AB in positions 5 and 6 for a Freightliner ve-
Decal (see the driver’s manual for decal location) hicle indicates an FLD112. Code AB in the same po-
and stamped on the left frame rail over the front axle sition for a Sterling vehicle represents an SC7000
about 2 inches (50 mm) from the top of the web or Cargo.
on the top flange of the left frame rail at frame sta-
tion 30. For all vehicles, a check digit (9th character) is deter-
mined by assignment of weighted values to the other
NOTE: For Freightliner vehicles assembled and 16 characters. These weighted values are processed
sold in Mexico, the VIN appears on a plate or through a series of equations designed to check va-
label attached to the driver’s door. Also, a data lidity of the VIN and to detect VIN alteration.
card placed in the glove box shows the Mexican NOTE: Always specify the VIN when ordering
VIN as the "CHASSIS" number. The "CABIN" parts.
number is part of the Freightliner VIN, the last
six digits of which are the Freightliner serial
number.
Seventeen-Character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Typical VIN 1FU P AB AV 1 1 P A12345
Character Position 1, 2, 3 4 5, 6 7, 8 9 10 11 12–17
Code Description World Chassis Model, Engine, Check Digit Model Build Production
Manufacturer Configuration Cab, Brakes Calculation Year Location Serial Number
Identification GVWR
Decoding Table * Table 2 Table 3 Table 4 Table 5 — Table 6 Table 7 —
* For corresponding decoding information, see the applicable tables in this subject.
Table 1, Seventeen-Character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (World Manufacturer Identification)

1FU Freightliner, U.S.A. Freightliner Truck-Tractor
1FV Freightliner, U.S.A. Freightliner Incomplete Vehicle
3AK M-B, Mexico (after April 1996) Freightliner Truck-Tractor
3AL M-B, Mexico (after April 1996) Freightliner Incomplete Vehicle
RSA NAI, Saudi Arabia Freightliner Incomplete Vehicle

VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (World Manufacturer Identification)

RSB NAI, Saudi Arabia Freightliner Truck-Tractor
Table 2, VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (World Manufacturer Identification)
VIN Position 4 (Chassis Configuration) VIN Positions 5 and 6 (Model, Cab, Class/GVWR)
Code Chassis Class
Code Model Cab
(GVWR)
A 4 x 2 Truck
AG FLD120 Conventional Class 7
B 4 x 2 Truck-Tractor
D 4 x 4 Truck AH FLD120 Conventional Class 8
E 4 x 4 Truck-Tractor AJ FLD120 Glider Conventional Glider

F 6 x 2 Truck AK FLD120 SD Conventional Class 7
G 6 x 2 Truck-Tractor AL FLD120 SD Conventional Class 8
H 6 x 4 Truck AM FLD120 SD Glider Conventional Glider
J 6 x 4 Truck-Tractor AN FLD132 XL Classic Conventional Class 7
K 6 x 6 Truck
AP FLD132 XL Classic Conventional Class 8
L 6 x 6 Truck-Tractor
AR FLD132 XL Classic Conventional Glider
M 8 x 4 Truck Glider
N 8 x 4 Truck-Tractor AS FLD120 Military Conventional Class 7
P 8 x 6 Truck AT FLD120 Military Conventional Class 8
R 8 x 6 Truck-Tractor
AU FLD120 Mil Glider Conventional Glider
S 10 x 4 Truck
AV Argosy COE Class 7
T 10 x 4 Truck-Tractor
AW Argosy COE Class 8
U 10 x 6 Truck-Tractor
AX Argosy Glider COE Glider
V 10 x 6 Truck-Tractor
AY C112 (Century Class) Conventional Class 7
X Glider
Table 3, VIN Position 4 (Chassis Configuration) AZ C112 Conventional Class 8
A1 C112 Glider Conventional Glider
VIN Positions 5 and 6 (Model, Cab, Class/GVWR) A2 C120 (Century Class) Conventional Class 7
Class A3 C120 Conventional Class 8
Code Model Cab
(GVWR)
A4 C120 Glider Conventional Glider
AA FLB Glider COE Glider
A5 Columbia 120 Conventional Class 7
AB FLD112 Conventional Class 7 *
A6 Columbia 120 Conventional Class 8
AC FLD112 Conventional Class 8 †
A7 Columbia 120 Glider Conventional Glider
AD FLD112 Glider Conventional Glider
A8 ST112 (Century Class) Conventional Class 7
AE FLD112 SD Conventional Class 8
A9 ST112 Conventional Class 8
AF FLD112 SD Glider Conventional Glider
A0 ST112 Glider Conventional Glider

VIN Positions 5 and 6 (Model, Cab, Class/GVWR) VIN Positions 5 and 6 (Model, Cab, Class/GVWR)
Class Class
Code Model Cab Code Model Cab
(GVWR) (GVWR)
BA ST120 (Century Class) Conventional Class 7 B2 FC70 Cargo COE Class 6
BB ST120 Conventional Class 8 B3 FC70 Cargo COE Class 7
BC ST120 Glider Conventional Glider B4 FC70 Cargo COE Class 8
BD FLD120 Classic Legacy Conventional Class 8 B5 FC80 Cargo COE Class 6
BE FLS112 Legacy Conventional Class 8 B6 FC80 Cargo COE Class 7
BF FL112 Conventional Class 7 B7 FC80 Cargo COE Class 8
BG FL112 Conventional Class 8 B8 RIV None Class 8
BH FL112 Glider Conventional Glider B9 Sport Chassis Conventional Class 6
BJ FL50 Conventional Class 4 ‡ B0 Sport Chassis Conventional Class 7
BK FL50 Conventional Class 5 § CA FL106 Glider Conventional Glider
BL FL50 Conventional Class 6 ¶ CB FL60 Glider Conventional Glider
BM FL50 Conventional Class 7 CC FL70 Glider Conventional Glider

BN FL60 Conventional Class 5 CD FL80 Glider Conventional Glider
BP FL60 Conventional Class 6 CE T-2 COE Class 7
BR FL60 Conventional Class 7 CF T-2 COE Class 8

* Class 7 GVWR is 26,001–33,000 lb.
BS FC70 Conventional Class 6 † Class 8 GVWR is 33,001 lb and over.
‡ Class 4 GVWR is 14,001–16,000 lb.
BT FC70 Conventional Class 7 § Class 5 GVWR is 16,001–19,500 lb.
¶ Class 6 GVWR is 19,501–26,000 lb.
BU FC70 Conventional Class 8
Table 4, VIN Positions 5 and 6 (Model, Cab,
BV FC80 Conventional Class 6 Class/GVWR)
BW FC80 Conventional Class 7
BX FC80 Conventional Class 8
BY FL106 Conventional Class 6
BZ FL106 Conventional Class 7
B1 FL106 Conventional Class 8
VIN Positions 7 and 8 (Engine, Brakes)

Displace- Config-
Code Engine Fuel Brakes
ment (L) uration
AA Caterpillar 3176 Diesel 10.3 I–6 Air
AB Caterpillar 3176 Diesel 10.3 I–6 Hydraulic
AC Caterpillar 3176 Diesel 10.3 I–6 Air/Hydraulic


Displace- Config-
ment (L) uration
AD Caterpillar 3406 Diesel 14.6 I–6 Air
AE Caterpillar 3406 Diesel 14.6 I–6 Hydraulic
AF Caterpillar 3406 Diesel 14.6 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
AG Caterpillar 3406E Diesel 15.8 I–6 Air
AH Caterpillar 3406E Diesel 15.8 I–6 Hydraulic
AJ Caterpillar 3406E Diesel 15.8 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
AK Caterpillar 3126/CFE Diesel 7.2 I–6 Air
AL Caterpillar 3126/CFE Diesel 7.2 I–6 Hydraulic
AM Caterpillar 3126/CFE Diesel 7.2 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
AN Caterpillar C10 Diesel 10.3 I–6 Air
AP Caterpillar C10 Diesel 10.3 I–6 Hydraulic
AR Caterpillar C10 Diesel 10.3 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
AS Caterpillar C12 Diesel 12.0 I–6 Air
AT Caterpillar C12 Diesel 12.0 I–6 Hydraulic
AU Caterpillar C12 Diesel 12.0 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
AV Caterpillar C15 Diesel 14.6 I–6 Air
AW Caterpillar C15 Diesel 14.6 I–6 Hydraulic
AX Caterpillar C15 Diesel 14.6 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
AY Caterpillar C16 Diesel 15.8 I–6 Air
AZ Caterpillar C16 Diesel 15.8 I–6 Hydraulic
A1 Caterpillar C16 Diesel 15.8 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
A2 Cummins L10 Diesel 10.8 I–6 Air
A3 Cummins L10 Diesel 10.8 I–6 Hydraulic
A4 Cummins L10 Diesel 10.8 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
A5 Cummins M11 Diesel 10.8 I–6 Air
A6 Cummins M11 Diesel 10.8 I–6 Hydraulic
A7 Cummins M11 Diesel 10.8 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
A8 Cummins ISM Diesel 10.8 I–6 Air
A9 Cummins ISM Diesel 10.8 I–6 Hydraulic
A0 Cummins ISM Diesel 10.8 I–6 Air/Hydraulic


Displace- Config-
ment (L) uration
BA Cummins NTC Diesel 14.0 I–6 Air
BB Cummins NTC Diesel 14.0 I–6 Hydraulic
BC Cummins NTC Diesel 14.0 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
BD Cummins N14 Diesel 14.0 I–6 Air
BE Cummins N14 Diesel 14.0 I–6 Hydraulic
BF Cummins N14 Diesel 14.0 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
BG Cummins ISX/Signature Diesel 14.9 I–6 Air
BH Cummins ISX/Signature Diesel 14.9 I–6 Hydraulic
BJ Cummins ISX/Signature Diesel 14.9 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
BK Cummins C8.3 Diesel 8.3 I–6 Air
BL Cummins C8.3 Diesel 8.3 I–6 Hydraulic
BM Cummins C8.3 Diesel 8.3 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
BN Cummins B5.9 Diesel 5.9 I–6 Air
BP Cummins B5.9 Diesel 5.9 I–6 Hydraulic
BR Cummins B5.9 Diesel 5.9 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
BS Cummins ISC Diesel 8.3 I–6 Air
BT Cummins ISC Diesel 8.3 I–6 Hydraulic
BU Cummins ISC Diesel 8.3 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
BV Cummins ISB Diesel 5.9 I–6 Air
BW Cummins ISB Diesel 5.9 I–6 Hydraulic
BX Cummins ISB Diesel 5.9 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
BY Cummins B5.9 Propane 5.9 I–6 Air
BZ Cummins B5.9 Propane 5.9 I–6 Hydraulic
B1 Cummins B5.9 Propane 5.9 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
B2 Cummins B5.9 Natural Gas 5.9 I–6 Air
B3 Cummins B5.9 Natural Gas 5.9 I–6 Hydraulic
B4 Cummins B5.9 Natural Gas 5.9 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
B5 Cummins C8.3 Natural Gas 8.3 I–6 Air
B6 Cummins C8.3 Natural Gas 8.3 I–6 Hydraulic
B7 Cummins C8.3 Natural Gas 8.3 I–6 Air/Hydraulic


Displace- Config-
ment (L) uration
B8 Detroit Series 50 Diesel 8.5 I–4 Air
B9 Detroit Series 50 Diesel 8.5 I–4 Hydraulic
B0 Detroit Series 50 Diesel 8.5 I–4 Air/Hydraulic
CA Detroit Series 55 Diesel 12.0 I–6 Air
CB Detroit Series 55 Diesel 12.0 I–6 Hydraulic
CC Detroit Series 55 Diesel 12.0 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
CD Detroit Series 60 Diesel 11.1 I–6 Air
CE Detroit Series 60 Diesel 11.1 I–6 Hydraulic
CF Detroit Series 60 Diesel 11.1 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
CG Detroit Series 60 Diesel 12.7 I–6 Air
CH Detroit Series 60 Diesel 12.7 I–6 Hydraulic
CJ Detroit Series 60 Diesel 12.7 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
CK Detroit Series 60 Diesel 14.0 I–6 Air
CL Detroit Series 60 Diesel 14.0 I–6 Hydraulic
CM Detroit Series 60 Diesel 14.0 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
CN Mercedes-Benz MBE900 Diesel 4.3 I–4 Air
CP Mercedes-Benz MBE900 Diesel 4.3 I–4 Hydraulic
CR Mercedes-Benz MBE900 Diesel 4.3 I–4 Air/Hydraulic
CS Mercedes-Benz MBE900 Diesel 6.4 I–6 Air
CT Mercedes-Benz MBE900 Diesel 6.4 I–6 Hydraulic
CU Mercedes-Benz MBE900 Diesel 6.4 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
CV Mercedes-Benz MBE4000 Diesel 12.0 I–6 Air
CW Mercedes-Benz MBE4000 Diesel 12.0 I–6 Hydraulic
CX Mercedes-Benz MBE4000 Diesel 12.0 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
CY Cummins ISL Diesel 8.3 I–6 Air
CZ Cummins ISL Diesel 8.3 I–6 Hydraulic
C1 Cummins ISL Diesel 8.3 I–6 Air/Hydraulic
C2 Cummins B3.9 Diesel 3.9 I–4 Air
C3 Cummins B3.9 Diesel 3.9 I–4 Hydraulic
C4 Cummins B3.9 Diesel 3.9 I–4 Air/Hydraulic


Displace- Config-
ment (L) uration
C5 Cummins ISB 3.9 Diesel 3.9 I–4 Air
C6 Cummins ISB 3.9 Diesel 3.9 I–4 Hydraulic
C7 Cummins ISB 3.9 Diesel 3.9 I–4 Air/Hydraulic
00 No Engine — — — —
Table 5, VIN Positions 7 and 8 (Engine and Brakes)
VIN Position 10 (Model Year)

Code Model Year
Y 2000
1 2001
2 2002
3 2003
4 2004
5 2005
6 2006
7 2007
Table 6, VIN Position 10 (Model Year)
VIN Position 11 (Build Location)

Code Build Location
D Mercedes-Benz, Mexico, Santiago
H Mt. Holly, North Carolina
L Cleveland, North Carolina
P Portland, Oregon
Table 7, VIN Position 11 (Build Location)

Decking Devices 00.05
General Information
Decking Devices Installation, FLA, FLB and FLD

To avoid damaging vehicles during decking and un-
120 Decking Devices
decking, follow the instructions below for installing
1. Locate the tow pin behind the center hole of the
and removing—or extending and retracting—decking
front bumper, and lift it up and out of the way.
devices.
For FLAs and FLBs, use one decking device A21– 2. Position the decking device so that its rear
25059–001. See Fig. 1. For FLD 120s , use one de- extension/flange is facing up, as shown in Fig. 1
vice A21–25004–000. See Fig. 2. On FLD 112s, the and Fig. 2.
two decking devices (tow eyes) are part of the ve-
hicle frame and must be extended through the CAUTION
bumper. See Fig. 3.
When installing the decking device in a COE with
a down-flow radiator, make sure the decking de-
vice stays clear of the radiator outlet hose. Hit-
ting the hose with the device could severely dam-
age the hose.
3. Insert the decking device in the hole at the cen-
ter of the front bumper, and slide it to the rear
until its rear extension/flange rests on the rear
flange of the front crossmember. See Fig. 4.
4. Position the decking device so that its 2-inch-
diameter hole lines up with the crossmember
tow-pin hole.
1 5. Insert the tow pin through the 2-inch-diameter
09/16/97 f310152a
hole in the decking device, and into the cross-
1. Tow Pin Hole
member tow-pin hole.
Fig. 1, Decking Device for FLA and FLB (A21-25059- The vehicle can now be safely hoisted for deck-
001)
ing. Make sure the decking area is free of ob-
stacles, has a vertical clearance of at least 14
feet (4.3 m) and a width of at least 12 feet (3.7
m).
Removal, FLA, FLB and FLD

120 Decking Devices
1. Lift the tow pin so that it clears the decking de-
vice, then pull out the device.
2. Install the tow pin in the crossmember tow-pin
hole.
1
09/16/97
1. Tow Pin Hole
f310153a
Extending and Retracting
Decking Devices, FLD 112s
Fig. 2, Decking Device for FLD 120 (A21-25004-000)
1. Tilt the hood.
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 19, April 1998 050/1

00.05 Decking Devices
General Information
2. Locate the retracted decking devices mounted 5. To retract the decking devices, push them back
under the forward end of each frame rail. through the holes in the bumper until they rest in
their retracted positions. See Fig. 3.
3. Lift each eye slightly and push it forward through
the bumper until it stops. See Fig. 5.
09/16/97 f310197a
1. Tow Eye Retracted 2. Tow Eye Extended
Fig. 3, Decking Device for FLD 112
CAUTION
When lifting the front of the vehicle, it is neces-
sary to use both tow eyes extending from the
frame rails. Use a spreader bar measuring ap-
proximately 34 inches (86 cm) with chains and
clevises attached at the tow eyes. Failure to use
a spreader bar could result in damage to the
hood or grille caused by contact with the lifting
tackle.
4. Return the hood to the operating position, and
latch it.
The vehicle can now be safely hoisted for deck-
ing. Make sure the decking area is free of ob-
stacles, has a vertical clearance of at least 14
feet (4.3 m) and a width of at least 12 feet (3.7
m).
050/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 19, April 1998

Decking Devices 00.05
General Information
1
4
3 2
10/28/97 f310154a
1. Front Crossmember
2. Decking Device A21-25059-001
3. Rear Flange of Front Crossmember
4. Tow Pin Hole
Fig. 4, Installing the Decking Device (FLB shown)
10/10/97 f310198a
Fig. 5, Extending the Decking Devices

Threaded Fasteners 00.06
General Information
General Information
2 3
The majority of threaded fasteners used throughout
the vehicle have U.S. customary threads (diameter
and pitch are measured in inches). See Fig. 1. How-
ever, the engine and some items attached to the cab
use metric fasteners (diameter and pitch are mea-
sured in millimeters). 4
1
Most fasteners used on the vehicle that are 1/2-inch
diameter or larger are plain hex-type fasteners (non- 5
flanged); all metric fasteners are non-flanged. Special 6
hardened flatwashers are used under the bolt head, 7
and between the part being attached and the hexnut,
to distribute the load, and to prevent localized over- 1/2−13 x 1−1/2
stressing of the parts. The washers are cadmium-or A
zinc-plated, and have a hardness rating of 38 to 45
HRC.
9 10
Some fasteners smaller than 1/2-inch diameter are
flanged fasteners, which have integral flanges that fit
against the parts being fastened. The flanges elimi-
nate the need for washers.
Fastener Grades and Classes 11

8
Fasteners with U.S. customary threads are divided
12
into grades established by the Society of Automotive
Engineers (S.A.E.) or the International Fastener Insti- 13
tute (I.F.I.). The fastener grades indicate the relative 14
strength of the fastener; the higher the number (or
letter), the stronger the fastener. Bolt (capscrew)
M12−1.5 x 30
grades can be identified by the number and pattern
of radial lines forged on the bolt head. See Fig. 2. B
10/19/93 f310223a
Hexnut (and locknut) grades can be identified by the
number and pattern of lines and dots on various sur- A. 1/2–13 x 1–1/2 U.S. Customary Thread Bolt
faces of the nut. See Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, B. M12–1.5 x 30 Metric Thread Bolt
Fig. 7, Fig. 8, or Fig. 9. Nearly all of the bolts used 1. S.A.E. Grade Marking
2. Thread Pitch
on the vehicle are grades 5, 8, and 8.2. Matching
3. Nominal Diameter
grades of hexnuts are always used: grade 5 or grade 4. Bolt Length
B hexnuts are used with grade 5 bolts; grade 8, 5. Nominal Diameter in Inches
grade C, or grade G (flanged) hexnuts are used with 6. Thread Pitch in Threads per Inch
grade 8 or 8.2 bolts. 7. Bolt Length in Inches
8. Metric Class Marking
Fasteners with metric threads are divided into 9. Thread Pitch
classes adopted by the American National Standards 10. Nominal Diameter
Institute (ANSI). The higher the class number, the 11. Bolt Length
stronger the fastener. Bolt classes can be identified 12. Nominal Diameter in Millimeters
by the numbers forged on the head of the bolt. 13. Thread Pitch (Thread Width from Crest to Crest in
See Fig. 10. Hexnut (and locknut) classes can be Millimeters)
identified by the marks or numbers on various sur- 14. Bolt Length in Millimeters
faces of the nut. See Fig. 11. Class 8 hexnuts are
Fig. 1

00.06 Threaded Fasteners
General Information
1 2 10/19/93 f230037
NOTE: The strength of grade 8 nuts is compatible with

grade 8 or 8.2 bolts.
Fig. 5, S.A.E. Grade 8 Nuts
10/19/93 3 4 f310224a
NOTE: Grade 2 bolts have no grade markings; grade 2
bolts are rarely used by Freightliner
These grade markings are used on plain hex-type and
flanged bolts (capscrews). In addition to the grade 10/19/93 f230038
markings, the bolt head must also carry the manufactur- NOTE: I.F.I. grade A nuts have no identification marks
er’s trademark or identification. or notches; they are rarely used by Freightliner. Their
1. Grade 2 strength is compatible with grade 2 bolts.
2. Grade 5
3. Grade 8 Fig. 6, I.F.I. Grade A Nuts
4. Grade 8.2
Fig. 2
10/19/93 f230039
NOTE: I.F.I. grade B nuts have three identification

marks at 120 degrees, or 6 notches. Their strength is
10/19/93 f230035
compatible with grade 5 bolts.
NOTE: S.A.E. grade 2 nuts have no identification marks
or notches; they are rarely used by Freightliner. Their Fig. 7, I.F.I. Grade B Nuts
strength is compatible with grade 2 bolts.
Fig. 3, S.A.E. Grade 2 Nuts
10/19/93 f230040
NOTE: I.F.I. grade C nuts have six identification marks

at 60 degrees, or 12 notches. Their strength is compat-
10/19/93 f230036
ible with grade 8 or 8.2 bolts.
NOTE: The strength of grade 5 nuts is compatible with
grade 5 bolts. Fig. 8, I.F.I. Grade C Nut
Fig. 4, S.A.E. Grade 5 Nuts always used with class 8.8 bolts; class 10 hexnuts
with class 10.9 bolts.

General Information
1
10/19/93 f230041
NOTE: I.F.I. grade G (flanged) nuts have six identifica-

tion marks as shown; each identification mark may be a
dot, line, pair of dots or lines, or any other symbol at the
manufacturer’s option. Their strength is compatible with
grade 8 or 8.2 bolts. 2
Fig. 9, I.F.I. Grade G Nut 05/03/91 f310227a
1. Class 8 Nut
2. Class 10 Nut
8.8 Fig. 11
8.8
10.9
1
10.9
2
10/19/93 f310226a
NOTE: In addition to the grade markings, the bolt head
must carry the manufacturer’s trademark or identifica-
tion.
1. Class 8.8
2. Class 10.9 2
Fig. 10
Frame Fasteners
For most components attached to the frame, grade 8
and 8.2 phosphate-and oil-coated hexhead bolts and
grade C cadmium-plated and wax-coated prevailing 3
10/19/93 f310006a
torque locknuts are used. The prevailing torque lock-
nuts have distorted sections of threads to provide 1. Grade 8 Hexhead Bolt
torque retention. For attachments where clearance is 2. Grade 8 Low-Profile Hexhead Bolt
3. Grade C Prevailing Torque Locknut
minimal, low-profile hexhead bolts and grade C pre-
vailing torque locknuts are used. See Fig. 12. Fig. 12
Tightening Fasteners value on a bolt, the shank of the capscrew or bolt is

stretched slightly. This stretching (tensioning) results
When a capscrew is tightened to its torque value in a in a preload that reduces fatigue of the fasteners.
threaded hole, or a nut is tightened to its torque The torque values given in the tables in Subject 400

General Information
have been calculated to provide enough clamping

force on the parts being fastened, and the correct
tensioning of the bolt to maintain the clamping force.
Use of a torque wrench to tighten fasteners will help
prevent overtensioning them. Overtensioning causes
permanent stretching of the fasteners, which can re-
sult in breakage of the parts or fasteners.
When torquing a fastener, typically 80 to 90 percent
of the turning force is used to overcome friction; only
10 to 20 percent is used to stretch the capscrew or
bolt. About 40 to 50 percent of the turning force is
needed to overcome the friction between the under-
side of the capscrew head or nut and the washer.
Another 30 to 40 percent is needed to overcome the
friction between the threads of the capscrew and the
threaded hole, or the friction between the threads of
the nut and bolt.
The amount of torque required to tighten a fastener
is reduced when the amount of friction is reduced. If
a fastener is dry (unlubricated) and plain (unplated),
the amount of friction is high. If a fastener is wax-
coated or oiled, or has a zinc phosphate coating or
cadmium plating, the amount of friction is reduced.
Each of these coatings and combinations of coatings
has a different effect. Using zinc-plated hardened
flatwashers under the bolt (capscrew) head and nut
reduces the amount of friction. Dirt or other foreign
material on the threads or clamping surfaces of the
fastener or clamped part also changes the amount of
friction.
Even though each different condition affects the
amount of friction, a different torque value cannot be
given for each different condition. To ensure they are
always torqued accurately, Freightliner recommends
that all fasteners be lubricated with oil (unless spe-
cifically instructed to install them dry), then torqued to
the values for lubricated- and plated-thread fasten-
ers. When locking compound or anti-seize compound
is recommended for a fastener, the compound acts
as a lubricant, and oil is not needed.

General Instructions
Fastener Replacement Don’t use lockwashers and flatwashers in combina-

tion (against each other); each defeats the other’s
purpose.
When replacing fasteners, use only identical bolts,
washers, and nuts; they must be the same size, Use stainless steel fasteners against chrome plating,
strength, and finish as originally specified. See the unpainted aluminum, or stainless steel.
Freightliner Parts Book for fastener specifications.
When replacing graded (or metric class) bolts and Fastener Tightening
capscrews, use only fasteners that have the manu-
facturer’s trademark or identification on the bolt head; Before installing fasteners, clean all fastener (and
don’t use substandard bolts. Inferior, counterfeit fas- parts) threads, and all surfaces being clamped.
teners are difficult to identify; buy your fasteners from
a reputable supplier. To ensure they are always torqued accurately,
Freightliner recommends that all fasteners be lubri-
cated with oil (unless specifically instructed to install
Fastener Selection and them dry), then torqued to the values for lubricated-
Installation and plated-thread fasteners. When locking compound
or antiseize compound is recommended for a fas-
tener, the compound acts as a lubricant, and oil is
When using nuts with bolts, use a grade (or class) of
not needed.
nut that matches the bolt.
Bring parts and fasteners into contact, with no gaps
When installing non-flanged fasteners, use hardened
between them, before using a torque wrench to
steel flatwashers under the bolt (capscrew) head,
tighten fasteners to their final torque values.
and under the hexnut or locknut.
Tighten the nut, not the bolt head. This will give a
For bolts 4 inches (100 mm) or less in length, make
truer torque reading by eliminating bolt body friction.
sure that at least 1-1/2 threads and no more than
5/8-inch (16-mm) bolt length extends through the nut Always use a torque wrench to tighten fasteners, and
after it has been tightened. For bolts longer than 4 use a slow, smooth, even pull on the wrench. Don’t
inches (100 mm), allow a minimum of 1-1/2 threads overtorque fasteners; overtightening causes perma-
and a maximum of 3/4-inch (19-mm) bolt length. nent stretching of the fasteners, which can result in
breakage of the parts or fasteners.
Never hammer or screw bolts into place. Align the
holes of the parts being attached, so that the nut and If specific torque values aren’t given for countersunk
bolt surfaces are flush against the washers, and the bolts, use the torque value for the corresponding size
washers are flush against the parts. and grade of regular bolt, as given in Subject 400.
When installing fasteners in aluminum or plastic parts Always follow the torque sequence or torque interval
with threaded holes, start the fasteners by hand, to when provided, to ensure that clamping forces are
ensure straight starting and to prevent damaged even, and parts and fasteners aren’t distorted.
threads.
Tighten frame fasteners periodically to offset the ef-
Don’t use lockwashers (split or toothed) next to alu- fects of "bedding in" (seating). Continued vehicle op-
minum surfaces. eration with loose frame fasteners could result in
component, bracket, and frame damage. See the
When installing studs that don’t have an interference
Maintenance Schedule( Group 00) and Group 31 of
fit, install them with thread locking compound, as in-
the Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual for inter-
structed in this subject.
vals.
When installing parts that are mounted on studs, use
free-spinning (non-locking) nuts and helical-spring Thread Locking Compound
(split) lockwashers or internal-tooth lockwashers.
Don’t use locknuts, because they tend to loosen the Application
studs during removal. Don’t use plain washers (flat-
washers). When the use of thread locking compound is recom-
mended or desired, for studs, capscrews, and bolts

General Instructions
with a thread diameter of 1 inch (25 mm) or less, use

Loctite® 271 or Perma-Lok® HM-128.
For thread diameters over 1 inch (25 mm), use Loc-
tite 277.
NOTE: Follow the safety precautions given on

the locking compound container.
1. Clean the male and female threads of the fasten-
ers, removing all dirt, oil, and other foreign mate-
rial. If parts are contaminated, use Stoddard sol-
vent for cleaning; then allow the fasteners to air
dry for 10 minutes. Be sure solvent is completely
gone before applying adhesive.
2. Transfer a small amount of the locking com-
pound from the container to a paper cup or small
non-metal dish.
3. Using a plastic brush (a metal brush will contami-
nate the compound), apply a small amount of
compound to the entire circumference of 3 or 4
of the male threads that will be covered by the
nut after it has been tightened. Be sure enough
compound is applied to fill the inside of the nut
threads, with a slight excess.
4. Install and torque the nut. Readjustment of the
nut position is not possible after installation is
complete, without destroying the locking effect.
NOTE: To disassemble the fasteners, heat the
bond line to 400° F (200° C) before removing
the nut. Every time the fasteners are disas-
sembled, replace them. If any parts are dam-
aged by overheating, replace the parts.

Specifications
Torque Values for U.S. Customary Thread Fasteners With Lubricated* or Plated Threads†
Regular Hex Flanged
Thread
Grade 5 Grade 5 or Grade 8 or Grade 8 or Grade 5 Grade B Grade 8 or Grade G
Diameter–
Bolt B Nut 8.2 Bolt C Nut Bolt Nut 8.2 Bolt Nut
Pitch
Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
f230002 f230003 f230004 f230005 f230006 f230007 f230008 f230009
1/4–20 7 (9) 8 (11) 6 (8) 10 (14)

1/4–28 8 (11) 9 (12) 7 (9) 12 (16)
5/16–18 15 (20) 16 (22) 13 (18) 21 (28)
5/16–24 16 (22) 17 (23) 14 (19) 23 (31)
3/8–16 26 (35) 28 (38) 23 (31) 37 (50)
3/8–24 30 (41) 32 (43) 25 (34) 42 (57)
7/16–14 42 (57) 45 (61) 35 (47) 60 (81)
7/16–20 47 (64) 50 (68) 40 (54) 66 (89)
1/2–13 64 (87) 68 (92) 55 (75) 91 (123)
1/2–20 72 (98) 77 (104) 65 (88) 102 (138)
9/16–12 92 (125) 98 (133) 80 (108) 130 (176)
9/16–18 103 (140) 110 (149) 90 (122) 146 (198)
5/8–11 128 (173) 136 (184) 110 (149) 180 (244)
5/8–18 145 (197) 154 (209) 130 (176) 204 (277)
3/4–10 226 (306) 241 (327) 200 (271) 320 (434)
3/4–16 253 (343) 269 (365) 220 (298) 357 (484)
7/8–9 365 (495) 388 (526) 320 (434) 515 (698)
7/8–14 402 (545) 427 (579) 350 (475) 568 (770)
1–8 — 582 (789) — —
1–12 — 637 (863) — —
1–14 — 652 (884) — —
* Freightliner recommends that all plated and unplated fasteners be coated with oil before installation.
† Use these torque values if either the bolt or nut is lubricated or plated (zinc-phosphate conversion-coated, cadmium-plated, or waxed).
Table 1, Torque Values for U.S. Customary Thread Fasteners With Lubricated or Plated Threads

Specifications
Torque Values for U.S. Customary Thread Fasteners With Dry (Unlubricated)* Plain (Unplated) Threads†
Regular Hex Flanged
Thread Grade 5 or B Grade 8 or 8.2 Grade 8 or C Grade 8 or 8.2
Grade 5 Bolt Grade G Nut
Diameter–Pitch Nut Bolt Nut Bolt
Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
f230002 f230003 f230004 f230005 f230008 f230009
1/4–20 8 (11) 10 (14) —

1/4–28 9 (12) 12 (16) —
5/16–18 15 (20) 22 (30) 22 (30)
5/16–24 17 (23) 25 (34) —
3/8–16 28 (38) 40 (54) 40 (54)
3/8–24 31 (42) 45 (61) —
7/16–14 45 (61) 65 (88) 65 (88)
7/16–20 50 (68) 70 (95) —
1/2–13 70 (95) 95 (129) 95 (129)
1/2–20 75 (102) 110 (149) —
9/16–12 100 (136) 140 (190) 140 (190)
9/16–18 110 (149) 155 (210) —
5/8–11 135 (183) 190 (258) 190 (258)
5/8–18 155 (210) 215 (292) —
3/4–10 240 (325) 340 (461) 340 (461)
3/4–16 270 (366) 380 (515) —
7/8–9 385 (522) 540 (732) —
7/8–14 425 (576) 600 (813) —
1–8 580 (786) 820 (1112) —
1–12 635 (861) 900 (1220) —
1–14 650 (881) 915 (1241) —
* Threads may have residual oil, but will be dry to the touch.
† Male and female threads (bolt and nut) must both be unlubricated and unplated; if either is plated or lubricated, use Table 1. Freightliner recommends that all
plated and unplated fasteners be coated with oil before installation.
Table 2, Torque Values for U.S. Customary Thread Fasteners With Dry (Unlubricated) Plain (Unplated) Threads

Specifications
Torque Values for Metric Thread Fasteners With Lubricated* or Plated Threads†
Thread Class 8.8 Bolt Class 8 Nut Class 10.9 Bolt Class 10 Nut
Diameter–Pitch Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
8.8 8 10.9 10
f230010 f230011 f230012 f230013
M6 5 (7) 7 (9)
M8 12 (16) 17 (23)
M8 x 1 13 (18) 18 (24)
M10 24 (33) 34 (46)
M10 x 1.25 27 (37) 38 (52)
M12 42 (57) 60 (81)
M12 x 1.5 43 (58) 62 (84)
M14 66 (89) 95 (129)
M14 x 1.5 72 (98) 103 (140)
M16 103 (140) 148 (201)
M16 x 1.5 110 (149) 157 (213)
M18 147 (199) 203 (275)
M18 x 1.5 165 (224) 229 (310)
M20 208 (282) 288 (390)
M20 x 1.5 213 (313) 320 (434)
M22 283 (384) 392 (531)
M22 x 1.5 315 (427) 431 (584)
M24 360 (488) 498 (675)
M24 x 2 392 (531) 542 (735)
M27 527 (715) 729 (988)
M27 x 2 569 (771) 788 (1068)
M30 715 (969) 990 (1342)
M30 x 2 792 (1074) 1096 (1486)
* Freightliner recommends that all plated and unplated fasteners be coated with oil before installation.
† Use these torque values if either the bolt or nut is lubricated or plated (zinc-phosphate conversion-coated,
cadmium-plated, or waxed).
Table 3, Torque Values for Metric Thread Fasteners With Lubricated or Plated
Threads

Engine Mounts 01.00
General Information
General Information The front engine mount is an underslung crossmem-

ber under the front of the engine. It supports a
bracket ( Fig. 3) which is attached to the engine at
Three mounts support the engine and the transmis-
each side of the vibration damper pulley.
sion, a total of about 3300 lb (1500 kg). Two of the
engine mounts support the rear of the engine. The
third supports the front.
Each of the rear engine mounts ( Fig. 1 or Fig. 2) is
bolted to the inside of a frame rail near the flywheel
housing. These mounts support brackets (also called
"legs") which are bolted to the flywheel housing.
3
1
2
3 05/18/93 f220044
1. Engine Mount 3. Engine Bracket
2. Isolator
Fig. 3, Typical Front Engine Mount

05/18/93 f220043 To isolate the engine and transmission from road
1. Engine Leg 3. Engine Mount shock, and to isolate the vehicle frame from engine
2. Isolator vibration, rubber isolators are sandwiched between
the engine mount bolted to the frame rail and the
Fig. 1, Typical Rear Engine Mount bracket (or leg) bolted to the engine. Steel washers
protect the isolators from wearing on the brackets,
1 and bolts run through the brackets, washers, and
isolators to hold the assembly together and hold the
engine on the mount.
04/29/93 f010654
1. Engine Leg (bolted to the engine)
2. Engine Mount (bolted to the frame rail)
Fig. 2, Detroit Diesel Series 50 Rear Engine Mount

Engine Mounts 01.00
Rear Engine Mount Isolator Replacement
Replacement
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and 1
drain the air brake system. As applicable, tilt the
cab or the hood. Refer to the vehicle driver’s
manual for instructions.
2
NOTE: Replace the isolators in only one engine
mount at a time, and when doing so, replace
both the isolators in the mount.
2. Disconnect the engine from the applicable rear
engine mount. See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2. 3
1
1
4
2
2
5
3
4
4
5
5
6
6 7
7
7 04/29/93 f010652
8 1. Capscrew, 3/4-10 x 3.5 Inch
9 8 2. Hardened Washer, 3/4-Inch
9 3. Rear Engine Bracket (Engine Leg)
12/07/93 f220041 4. Upper Isolator
NOTE: Cummins NTC or L10 rear engine mount shown. 5. Rear Engine Mount
6. Lower Isolator
1. 5/8-11 Capscrew 5. Isolator
7. Locknut, 3/4-Inch
2. 5/8-Inch Washer 6. Rear Engine Mount
3. Rear Engine Bracket 7. 5/8-Inch Washer Fig. 2, Detroit Diesel Series 50 Rear Engine Mount
(Engine Leg) (Snubber) Assembly
4. 5/8-Inch Washer 8. 5/8-Inch Washer
(Snubber) 9. 5/8-Inch Nut
Fig. 1, Typical Rear Engine Mount Assembly

WARNING
WARNING: The jack used to lift and lower the en-
gine must be capable of safely lifting and sup-
porting four metric tons. Once the engine mount

01.00 Engine Mounts
Rear Engine Mount Isolator Replacement
is disconnected, immediately support the engine 4.1 If not in place already, set a jack under
with engine stands. Do not get under an unse- the rear of the engine, and raise the jack
cured engine; an unsecured engine may fall, until it’s braced against the engine.
causing personal injury or component damage.
4.2 Lift the engine slightly to unload the en-
gine stands. Remove the stands, and
CAUTION carefully lower the engine until the engine
bracket rests on the washer(s).
CAUTION: Before lifting the engine, check the
clearance above the engine and transmission as- 4.3 Install the bolt(s) that runs downward
sembly. Lift the engine only enough to discon- through the engine mount assembly. If
nect the mount. Lifting the engine too high may applicable, hold the lower isolator in place
force it into the underside of the cab, causing ( see Fig. 2). Secure the bolt(s) with a
component damage. washer(s) and a nut(s). Tighten the nut(s)
on both the right and left rear engine
2.1 Loosen the fan shroud mounting cap- mounts as follows:
screws so the shroud can move down-
ward and will not press against the radia- On Detroit Diesel Series 50 engines,
tor brace rods as the engine is lifted. tighten the nuts 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
2.2 Place a jack under the rear of the engine, On Detroit Diesel Series 55 engines,
and raise the jack until it’s braced against tighten the nuts 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
the engine. On all other engines, tighten the nuts 160
2.3 Loosen the bolt(s) which run downward lbf·ft (216 N·m).
through the rear engine mount that is not 4.4 If the fan shroud moved, reposition it, and
being disconnected. tighten the fan shroud mounting cap-
2.4 For the engine mount that is being dis- screws.
connected, remove the bolt(s) that run 5. Remove the jack from under the engine, lower
downward through the engine bracket, the hood or cab, and remove the chocks from
isolators, and engine mount. Save the the tires.
fasteners and washers. Discard the lower
isolator(s).
2.5 Lift the engine until the upper isolator(s)
can be lifted out of the engine mount.
Place engine stands under the engine to
keep it off the engine mount. Remove
and discard the upper isolator(s).
CAUTION
CAUTION: If necessary, lubricate the new isola-
tor(s) with soapy water. Do not lubricate the iso-
lator(s) with oil, grease, or silicone lubricants;
they will deteriorate the rubber isolator(s).
3. Install a new upper isolator(s) in the engine
mount. If applicable, place washers (snubbers)
on the isolators. See Fig. 1.
4. Secure the engine to the engine mount.

Engine Mounts 01.00
Front Engine Mount Isolator Replacement
Replacement 1
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and

drain the air brake system. As applicable, tilt the 2
cab or the hood. Refer to the vehicle driver’s
3
NOTE: Replace the isolators in only one engine
mount at a time, and when doing so, replace all
the isolators in the mount.
2. Disconnect the engine from the front engine 4
mount. See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2.
5
1
2
3 7
8
4
9
06/01/93 f220045
1. Front Engine Bracket 6. Front Engine Mount

2. Locknut, 3/4-Inch 7. Lower Isolator
3. Washer, 3/4-Inch 8. Washer, 3/4-Inch
5 4. Spacer, 1-Inch Thick 9. Capscrew, 3/4-10 x
5. Upper Isolator 5.5 Inch
6 Fig. 2, Detroit Diesel Series 50 Front Engine Mount
7 WARNING
WARNING: The jack used to lift and lower the en-
8
gine must be capable of safely lifting and sup-
porting four metric tons. Once the engine mount
is disconnected, immediately support the engine
12/07/93 f220042
with engine stands. Do not get under an unse-
1. 3/4-Inch Nut 5. Front Engine Mount cured engine; an unsecured engine may fall,
2. 3/4-Inch Washer 6. Lower Isolator causing personal injury or component damage.
3. Front Engine Bracket 7. 3/4-Inch Washer
4. Upper Isolator 8. 3/4-Inch Capscrew
CAUTION
Fig. 1, Typical Front Engine Mount Assembly
CAUTION: Before lifting the engine, check the
clearance above the engine and transmission as-
sembly. Lift the engine only enough to discon-
nect the mount. Lifting the engine too high may

01.00 Engine Mounts
Front Engine Mount Isolator Replacement
force it into the underside of the cab, causing 5. Remove the chain from the lifting eye, lower the
component damage. hood or cab, and remove the chocks from the
tires.
2.1 Loosen the fan shroud mounting cap-
screws so the shroud can move down-
ward and will not press against the radia-
tor brace rods as the engine is lifted.
2.2 Using a chain, connect the engine front
lifting eye to a crane, and raise the chain
to remove any slack.
2.3 Remove the bolts that run through the
front engine mount, isolators, and engine
bracket. Save the fasteners and washers.
Discard the lower isolators.
2.4 Raise the engine until the two upper iso-
lators can be lifted out of the engine
mount. Place engine stands under the
engine to keep it off the engine mount.
Remove and discard the isolators.
CAUTION
CAUTION: If necessary, lubricate the new isola-
tors with soapy water. Do not lubricate the isola-
tors with oil, grease, or silicone lubricants; they
will deteriorate the rubber isolators.
3. Install two new upper isolators in the engine
mount.
4. Secure the engine to the engine mount.
4.1 If not in place already, secure the chain
and crane to the front engine lifting eye,
and raise the chain to remove any slack.
4.2 Raise the engine slightly to unload the
engine stands. Remove the stands, and
carefully lower the engine until the engine
support bracket rests on the spacer or
isolators as applicable.
4.3 Holding the bottom isolators in place, in-
stall the bolts through the front engine
mount assembly, and secure them with
washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts 241
lbf·ft (327 N·m).
4.4 If the fan shroud moved, reposition it.
Tighten the fan shroud mounting cap-
screws.

Engine Mounts 01.00
Rear Engine Mount Replacement, EPA07 Engines
Removal DANGER
NOTE: The rear engine mounts for EPA07 en- Aftertreatment Device (ATD) internal tempera-
gines are designed to last for the life of the ve- tures can remain hot enough to cause personal
hicle, and should not normally need replacing. injury, or ignite combustible materials, for hours
The isolators are bonded to the brackets and after the engine is shut down.
cannot be replaced separately. To avoid potentially serious burns or material
If the rear engine mounts need replacing due to damage:
damage, or if you are removing and installing • Let the ATD cool before handling it; be espe-
the engine, use this procedure. cially careful when opening it to expose the
DPF.
In the past, substituting softer isolators from the
MBE4000 engine was a way to sometimes rem- • Wear appropriate protective gear.
edy engine vibration problems with other en- • Be careful not to place the ATD where flam-
gines. This will not work with the EPA07 en- mable gases or other combustible materials
gines, because all the engine isolators now may come into contact with hot interior parts.
have the same durometer hardness. 13. Make sure the aftertreatment device (ATD) is
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, cool, then remove it from the vehicle.
and chock the tires.
2. Drain the air tanks. CAUTION
3. Disconnect all the cables from the batteries. The ATD assembly weighs from 125 to 150
Cover them, using dry rags and tie straps. pounds (57 to 68 kg) and must be protected from
impact or sharp jolts. Dropping the ATD, or sub-
4. Remove the battery mega-fuse block from the
jecting it to jarring impact can crack the diesel
left-side frame rail, underneath the cab. The
particulate filter (DPF) inside, which is built on a
mounting nuts are inboard of the frame rail.
ceramic substrate. If that happens, the DPF is
5. Open the hood. ruined and must be replaced.
6. If present, remove the two tow hooks from the A secure support is necessary to remove and in-
right frame rail. stall the ATD safely. The ATD must be held se-
curely to protect it from falling, or hitting hard
7. Remove the rain tray.
against something else.
7.1 Mark, then remove the wiper arms. The horizontal ATD lifting device (TLZ00785) is
7.2 Disconnect any hoses or drains from the designed to handle a horizontal ATD. Vertical
bottom of the rain tray. ATDs require a shop hoist secured to the lifting
ears on top.
7.3 Remove the fasteners that hold the rain
tray to the frontwall. 13.1 Put a transmission jack (or equivalent)
under the ATD, and strap the ATD to the
7.4 Remove the rain tray from the vehicle. jack.
8. Remove the right and left quarter fenders and 13.2 Disconnect the five sensors from the ATD.
the inner splash shields.
9. Remove the air intake canister assembly. WARNING
10. Remove the mounting bracket for the air intake
Wear adequate eye protection, such as safety
canister.
goggles or a face shield, when working with the
11. Remove the turbocharger heat shield. ATD mounting bands. The mounting bands are
12. Disconnect the air lines from the primary air tank,
then remove the tank from the vehicle.

01.00 Engine Mounts
under spring tension, and can cause eye injury

or other personal harm if they spring out of con- WARNING
trol.
Never work around or under a vehicle that is sup-
13.3 Remove the Marmon clamps from each ported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle
end of the ATD. with safety stands. Jacks can slip, allowing the
vehicle to fall, which could result in serious in-
13.4 Disconnect the ATD from the exhaust tub- jury or death.
ing, and remove it from the vehicle. Keep
the ATD strapped to the jack, and make 23. From underneath the vehicle, install a suitable
sure it is placed away from any combus- lifting bracket or stand, such as an engine ship-
tible materials. ping stand (for Detroit Diesel Series 60 engines)
on the rear of the engine. See Fig. 1.
14. Remove the cab skirts from both sides of the
vehicle. If using the Detroit Diesel engine shipping stand,
there should be two holes on each side of the
15. Disconnect and remove the exhaust tubing from
engine block, just forward of the bell housing.
the turbocharger.
These should match up with the holes in the en-
16. As applicable, remove the steps, air fairings, fuel gine shipping stand. When any stand or bracket
tank(s), and/or the battery box. is installed correctly, it should not be touching the
floor, and should be wide enough and strong
For instructions on removing the fuel tank(s),
enough to support a jack to raise the engine.
refer to Group 47 in this manual.
17. Remove the fasteners that hold the driveline
midship-bearing bracket to the frame crossmem-
ber.
18. Using suitable straps, secure the driveline and
the midship bearing to the frame crossmember.
Make sure the driveshaft is supported loosely
enough so that the slip joint aft of the midship
bearing will be able to extend when the engine is
raised.
19. Remove the overslung crossmember from the
transmission housing.
19.1 If present, remove the standoff bracket for
the A/C refrigerant line from the top of the
overslung crossmember. Leave the line
attached to the bracket.
19.2 Remove the fasteners that hold the over-
slung crossmember to the transmission
housing, then remove it.
20. Disconnect both ends of the clutch linkage and
remove it from the vehicle.
06/13/2006 f012133
21. Remove the shifter and shifter boot from the
transmission. Fig. 1, Engine Shipping Stand, Detroit Diesel Series 60
Engine
22. Raise the front of the vehicle so the tires are off
the ground, and support it with safety stands. Put 24. If present, remove the starting aid bottle from the
the safety stands behind the rear spring hangers left-side frame rail.
for the front suspension.
25. On one side of the vehicle, remove the two
mounting hexbolts that hold the engine leg to the

Engine Mounts 01.00
frame-rail engine mount. See Fig. 2. If needed,

repeat the procedure on the other side of the 1
vehicle.
5
6
2
2 2
7
4
3
2
06/26/2006 f012134
NOTE: The engine mount is not visible in this view.
1. Cab Mounting Bracket
2. Front Spring-Shackle Hanger
3. Frame Rail
Fig. 3, Engine Mount-to-Frame Rail Fasteners

3
2 Installation
06/26/2006
1 f220094
1. If applicable, install the engine leg on the bell
1. Hexbolt, 5/8–11
2. Hardened Washer housing. Apply Loctite® 271 (or equivalent) to the
3. Rear Engine Mount Assembly threads of the capscrews, and tighten to 320
4. Hexnut, 5/8–11 lbf·ft (434 N·m).
5. Capscrew, 5/8–11 2. With the engine supported, install the rear engine
6. Capscrew, 3/4–10
7. Engine Leg
mount on the frame rail. Install the four 5/8–11
hexbolts with the bolt heads inboard. Tighten the
Fig. 2, Rear Engine Mount and Engine Leg
hexnuts 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
3. If applicable, repeat the above procedure on the
26. Place a jack under the engine shipping stand (or other side of the vehicle.
other suitable stand/bracket) attached to the rear
of the engine, and gradually raise that side of the 4. Lower the engine onto the rear engine mount.
engine until the bottom of the engine leg is 5. Apply Loctite 271 to the threads of the two
above the top of the frame rail. 3/4–10 hexbolts. Install them and the hardened
27. Remove the four fasteners that hold the rear en- washers in the holes of the engine leg and the
gine mount to the frame rail. See Fig. 3. rear engine mount and tighten to 320 lbf·ft (434
N·m).
28. Remove the rear engine mount from the vehicle.
6. Remove the fasteners that hold the engine ship-
29. If needed, remove the four bolts that hold the ping stand to the side of the transmission, and
engine leg to the transmission housing. Remove remove the stand.
the engine leg.
7. Install the clutch linkage.
8. Install the overslung crossmember.
9. Install the shifter and shifter boot on the trans-
mission.

01.00 Engine Mounts
10. Install the standoff bracket for the A/C refrigerant

line, then attach the line to the bracket.
11. If it was removed, install the starting aid bottle to
the left-side frame rail.
12. Attach the driveline midship bearing and its
bracket to the frame crossmember.
13. Connect the exhaust tubing to the turbocharger.
14. Install the cab skirts to the bottom of the cab.
15. Install the ATD to the exhaust tubing. As previ-
ously marked, connect the wiring to the sensors
on the ATD.
16. Install the primary air tank and connect the air
lines to it.
17. In the engine compartment, install the turbo-
charger heat shield.
18. Install the mounting bracket for the air-intake
canister.
19. Install the air-intake canister to the mounting
bracket.
20. Install the right and left inner splash shields.
21. Install the right and left quarter fenders.
22. As applicable, install the steps, air fairings, fuel
tank(s), and/or the battery box.
For instructions on installing the fuel tank(s),
refer to Group 47 in this manual.
23. Using the previously removed fasteners, install
the rain tray on the frontwall.
24. Connect the hoses and drains to the bottom of
the rain tray.
25. As previously marked, install the wiper arms.
26. If they were removed, install the two tow hooks
on the side of the right frame rail.
27. Close the hood.
28. Install the battery mega-fuse block on the left-
side frame rail, underneath the cab.
29. Connect the battery cables.
30. Remove the chocks.

Engine Mounts 01.00
Specifications
Engine Mount Torques, Pre-EPA07 Engines

Description Grade Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Front Engine Mount Bolt 8 3/4–10 241 (327)
Rear Engine Mount Bolt
Detroit Diesel Series 50 Engine 8 3/4–10 241 (327)
Detroit Diesel Series 55 Engine 8 5/8–11 136 (184)
All Other Engines 8 5/8–11 160 (216)
Engine Leg-to-Flywheel Bolts
Detroit Diesel Series 60 Engine 8 5/8 –11 x 1.75 inches 136 (184)
Caterpillar C10/12/13/15/16 Engines 8 3/4 –10 x 2 inches 190 (258)
MBE4000 Engine 10.9 M16 x 1.5 x 50 mm (upper) 175 (237)
M16 x 1.5 x 40 mm (lower)
Table 1, Engine Mount Torques, Pre-EPA07 Engines
Engine Mount Torques, EPA07 Engines

Description Fastener Size Grade/ Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Class
Engine Mount-to-Frame Rail Capscrew 5/8–11 8 120–152 (163–206)
Engine Leg-to-Flywheel Housing Bolts:
Detroit Diesel Series 60 Engines 5/8–11 x 2-1/4 Inch 8 136 (184)
M16 x 1.5 x 60 mm (upper)
MBE4000 Engines 10.9 175 (237)
M16 x 1.5 x 50 mm (lower)
Caterpillar Engines (C13 & C15) 3/4–10 x 2-3/4 Inch 8 170–210 (230–285)
Engine Leg-to-Engine Mount Capscrew 3/4–10 8 300 (407)
Front Engine Bracket-to-Front Engine Mount Capscrew 3/4–10 8 213–269 (289–365)
Table 2, Engine Mount Torques, EPA07 Engines
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 30, November 2004 400/1

Bypass Oil Filter, Fleetguard Model LF 750 01.01
General Description and Principles of Operation
General Description and

Principles of Operation
Normal engine operation produces a variety of con-
taminants such, as resins and gums. The bypass oil
filter, used with a full-flow filter, traps these contami-
nants and prevents excessive wear of engine parts.
The Fleetguard model LF 750 bypass filter bleeds a
small portion of oil flow from the oil lubrication sys-
tem and returns filtered oil directly to the engine. The
bypass filter removes small contaminants that the
full-flow filter does not capture.
Engine oil enters through the inlet check valve as-
sembly, filling the filter housing. See Fig. 1 . In the
housing, pressure forces the oil through the sides of
the filter element. Filtered oil is channeled through
openings in the hold-down assembly, then collected
in the outlet tube. From the outlet tube, filtered oil
goes back to the engine through the outlet check
valve assembly.
FILTER
CLAMP−RING ELEMENT
CLAMP CAPSCREW
RING
T−HANDLE
HOUSING
COVER
OUTLET
TUBE
COVER O−RING
GASKET SPRING INLET
CHECK
VALVE RETAINING
ASSEMBLY RING
06/30/95 f010109
Fig. 1

Bypass Oil Filter, Fleetguard Model LF 750 01.01
Oil Filter Element Replacement
Replacement (See Fig. 1)

IMPORTANT: Do the following at every sched-
uled engine oil change. Refer to the vehicle
maintenance manual for the quantity of oil that
must be added to the lubrication system when
replacing the bypass filter.
1. Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain.
2. Remove the clamp-ring capscrews. Remove the
clamp ring and lift the cover off the filter housing.
3. Unscrew the hold-down assembly T-handle and
remove the assembly from the housing. Check
the O-ring and spring for damage. Replace if
needed.
4. Remove and discard the oil filter element.
WARNING
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the
safety precautions recommended by the solvent
manufacturer.
5. Clean the inside of the housing, and the hold-
down assembly, with solvent.
6. Install the drain plug.
7. Install a new filter element.
8. Install the hold-down assembly and securely
tighten the T-handle.
9. Check the cover gasket for damage, and replace
it if needed. Position the gasket on the housing.
10. Position the cover on the housing. Install the
clamp ring and capscrews. Alternately tighten the
capscrews to ensure a uniform seal between the
cover and gasket.
11. Start the engine and let it idle until normal oper-
ating oil pressure is reached.
12. Add oil as needed to bring the oil level up to the
high ("H") mark on the dipstick.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Operating the engine with the oil level
below the low ("L") mark, or above the high
mark, could result in engine damage.

01.01 Bypass Oil Filter, Fleetguard Model LF 750
FILTER
CLAMP−RING ELEMENT
CLAMP CAPSCREW
RING
T−HANDLE
HOUSING
COVER
OUTLET
TUBE
COVER O−RING
GASKET SPRING INLET
CHECK
VALVE RETAINING
ASSEMBLY RING
06/30/95 f010109
Fig. 1

Bypass Oil Filter, Luber-finer® Model 750-CT 01.02
General Information and Principles of Operation
General Information and VENT PLUG

CAPSCREW
Principles of Operation WASHER
HOLD−DOWN
ASSEMBLY
Normal engine operation produces a variety of con- T−HANDLE
taminants such as resins, and gums. The bypass oil CLAMP−RING
COVER
filter, used with a full-flow filter, traps these contami- CAPSCREW
nants and prevents excessive wear of engine parts.
COVER CLAMPING
The Luber-finer model 750-CT bypass filter bleeds a GASKET RING
small portion of oil flow from the oil lubrication sys-
tem and returns filtered oil directly to the engine. The
bypass filter removes small contaminants that the
full-flow filter does not capture.
Engine oil enters through the inlet check valve as-
sembly, filling the filter housing. See Fig. 1. In the
housing, pressure forces the oil through the sides of
the filter element. Filtered oil is channeled through HOUSING MOUNTING
openings in the hold-down assembly, then collected FILTER BRACKET
in the outlet tube. From the outlet tube, filtered oil ELEMENT
goes back to the engine through the outlet check
valve assembly.
OUTLET
TUBE
DRAIN
COCK INLET CHECK
VALVE ASSEMBLY
OUTLET CHECK
06/30/95
VALVE ASSEMBLY f010108
Fig. 1, Luber-finer Model 750-CT Bypass Oil Filter

Bypass Oil Filter, Luber-finer® Model 750-CT 01.02
Replacement (See Fig. 1) WARNING

VENT PLUG WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are
CAPSCREW toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may
HOLD−DOWN
WASHER
ASSEMBLY
T−HANDLE safety precautions recommended by the solvent
CLAMP−RING manufacturer.
COVER
CAPSCREW
5. Clean the inside of the housing, and the hold-
down assembly, with solvent.
COVER CLAMPING
GASKET RING 6. Close the drain cock.
7. Install a new filter element.
8. Check the cover gasket for damage, and replace
it if needed.
9. Install the hold-down assembly and securely
tighten the T-handle.
HOUSING MOUNTING 10. Position the cover on the housing. Install the
BRACKET clamp ring and capscrews. Alternately tighten the
FILTER
ELEMENT clamp capscrews to ensure a uniform seal be-
tween the cover and gasket.
11. Add oil to the crankcase, then start the engine
and let it idle until normal operating oil pressure
is reached.
OUTLET
TUBE 12. Loosen the vent plug capscrew and bleed any
trapped air from the filter housing. Tighten the
vent plug capscrew as soon as oil appears at the
DRAIN fitting.
COCK INLET CHECK
VALVE ASSEMBLY 13. Shut down the engine and add oil as needed to
OUTLET CHECK bring the oil level up to the high ("H") mark on
06/30/95
VALVE ASSEMBLY f010108 the dipstick.
Fig. 1
CAUTION
IMPORTANT: Do the following procedure at ev-
ery scheduled engine oil change. Refer to the CAUTION: Operating the engine with the oil level
below the low ("L") mark, or above the high
vehicle maintenance manual for the quantity of mark, could result in engine damage.
oil that must be added to the lubrication system
when replacing the bypass filter.
1. Loosen the vent plug capscrew, then open the
drain cock and allow the oil to drain.
2. Remove the clamp-ring capscrews. Remove the
clamp ring and lift the cover off the filter housing.
3. Unscrew the hold-down assembly T-handle and
remove the assembly from the housing.
4. Remove and discard the oil filter element.

Caterpillar 3176 Electronic Engine 01.03
General Information (See Fig. 1) Feature Pre-1991 Version 1991 Version

Number on 2YG 7LG
The Caterpillar 3176 electronic engine uses sensors, Electronic
a personality module, transducer module, speed Control Module
buffer, and a computer (electronic control module) to J7 Vehicle 23-Pin 40-Pin
automatically control engine timing and fuel injection. Connector
The electronic features of this engine include an
electronic governor, fuel-to-air ratio control, program- Throttle Control Adjustable Electronic Throttle
mable engine ratings, injection timing control, engine Mechanical Pedal With
Linkage With Integral Throttle
retarder interface, fault analysis and recording, and a Throttle Position Position Sensor;
data link used for programming customer specified Sensor Separate No Mechanical
parameters and troubleshooting the system. from Throttle Linkage
There are a few differences between the 1991 and Pedal
the pre-1991 engines, such as circuit numbers and Table 1, Caterpillar 3176 Versions
electrical connectors (see Fig. 1). To determine
which version an engine is, check the serial number Mounted directly on the electronic control module are
on the Electronic Control Module (see Fig. 1). Pre- the personality and transducer modules. The person-
1991 version engines have "2YG" before the serial ality module contains the operating program and the
number, and 1991 versions have "7LG" before the performance specifications for that particular engine
serial number. See Table 1 for the major differences family. The control module stores customer specified
between the two versions. parameters for that engine. The transducer module
ENGINE VEHICLE
CONNECTOR CONNECTOR
J8 J7 (40−PIN)
ENGINE
CONNECTOR VEHICLE
COOLANT CONNECTOR
TEMPERATURE SPEED/TIMING J8
SENSOR J7
SENSOR
VEHICLE to vehicle
SPEED BUFFER speed sensor
ELECTRONIC
CONTROL TRANSDUCER
MODULE MODULE
PERSONALITY
MODULE
12/11/95 f010585
Fig. 1
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 1, September 1992 050/1

01.03 Caterpillar 3176 Electronic Engine
contains the boost pressure sensor and monitors am- switch (see Fig. 2). The remaining operating modes
bient air pressure through the air cleaner. perform automatically and according to programmed
Other sensors needed to control the engine through specifications. Refer to the applicable Freightliner
the control module include the speed/ timing sensor, driver’s manual for operating instructions.
coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor,
and throttle position sensor.
The 3176 electronic engine system is self-diagnostic,
providing the operator with codes to indicate both
malfunctioning components and engine-related prob-
lems. If potentially damaging conditions are detected,
the system will limit engine operation, or shut down
the engine (depending on installed options).
f600525
The 3176 electronic engine system provides the fol-
lowing engine governing modes: Fig. 2
• Vehicle speed limit (VSL), which limits maxi- Caterpillar engines with serial numbers from
mum vehicle speed to a preset fuel efficient 7LG07500 have a new engine monitoring system
range. The vehicle speed limit is usually set 2 that warns the driver if there are problems with cool-
to 4 mph (3 to 6 km/h) above the maximum ant temperature, coolant level, or oil pressure. (The
cruise control speed. engine serial number is on a plate located on the
right rear side of the engine block.) This system has
• Top engine limit (TEL), which limits the maxi-
four operating modes:
mum engine rpm for fuel efficiency. The top
engine limit can be set between the rated en- • Off— the monitoring system is not working.
gine rpm (minus 79 rpm) and rated engine rpm • Warning— the system simply alerts the driver if
(plus 20 rpm). For example, if the rated engine the coolant temperature, coolant level, or oil
rpm is 1800, then the top engine limit can be pressure is outside normal conditions.
set between 1721 rpm (1800 minus 79) and
1820 rpm (1800 plus 20). • Derate— in addition to alerting the driver, the
system lowers the maximum speed and horse-
• Progressive shifting, which limits maximum en- power.
gine speed while shifting through the gears.
This programmable feature limits engine accel- • Shutdown— in addition to the "warning" and
eration rates at specified vehicle speeds and "derate" modes, the system will shut down the
gears. Since the engine uses only the rpm engine if conditions require it.
needed to get into the next gear, fuel is not
wasted by "winding up" the rpm in each gear
to gain speed.
• PTO governor designed for power takeoff op- FUEL SYSTEM (See Fig. 3)
erations. The PTO governor operates at any
engine speed from low idle to a maxi-mum that Fuel flows from the fuel transfer pump through inter-
is less than the rated engine speed. nal passages in the electronic control module hous-
ing to cool the module. The fuel is then routed
• Idle shutdown timer, which is a programmed through a 5 micron filter before entering the fuel sup-
delay of engine shutdown after the vehicle is ply manifold and the unit injectors. A siphon brake is
stopped and the parking brake is applied. This located on the fuel manifold to prevent siphoning and
delay can be from 3 to 60 minutes. drain-back from the injectors. Unused fuel is returned
• Cruise control, which maintains vehicle speed to the tank by the fuel return manifold.
between operator selected limits.
A pressure relief valve is located on the fuel return
Two of these operating modes, cruise control and manifold outlet to maintain 80 psi (550 kPa) pressure
PTO governing, are driver-activated and controlled in the system to fill the unit injectors.
with two switches mounted to the left of the ignition
050/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 1, September 1992

VENT PLUG SIPHON BREAK
RETURN MANIFOLD
FILTER
INJECTORS
PRIMING
PUMP
DRAIN
PLUG
SUPPLY MANIFOLD
RELIEF VALVE
ELECTRONIC
CONTROL
MODULE FUEL
TANK
TRANSFER PUMP
f010147
Fig. 3
UNIT INJECTORS port, the barrel is full and fuel injection is controlled
by the electronic control module. If the control mod-
The electronically controlled, mechanically actuated ule doesn’t send the signal to start injection (by clos-
injectors are mounted in the cylinder head. When the ing the spill valve), the fuel in the injector is dis-
camshaft is not applying pressure to the injector placed through the spill port as the plunger continues
plunger (Fig. 4), a spring keeps the plunger re- to travel down.
tracted. Fuel flows through the open fill port into the
When the electronic control module signals to start
barrel, and continues through the injector passages
injection, the solenoid pulls the fuel spill valve up,
fed by the low-pressure fuel transfer pump. During
closing the fuel path to the spill port. With this valve
this period, the pressure is too low to unseat the
closed, pressure rises quickly at the injector tip as
spring-loaded check valve at the injector’s tip. Most
the plunger continues to be driven down by the cam-
fuel passes through the injector to the open fuel spill
shaft. At 5500 psi (38 000 kPa), the force of the
valve and out the spill port to a fuel return manifold
spring loaded check valve is overcome and the valve
and back to the tank. This flow of fuel cools the
unseats, allowing fuel to be injected into the cylinder
injector.
(see Fig. 6).
As the camshaft turns, it starts to drive the plunger
down (see Fig. 5). After the plunger closes the fill

SOLENOID SOLENOID
VALVE SOLENOID CONNECTION SOLENOID CONNECTION
VALVE
ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY
SPRING SPRING
PLUNGER PLUNGER
VALVE VALVE
SEAL SEAL
BARREL BARREL
FILL PORT FILL PORT
SPILL SPILL
PORT SEAL SEAL
PORT
SPRING SPRING
SPACER SPACER
BODY BODY
CHECK CHECK
VALVE VALVE
f010148 f010149
Fig. 4 Fig. 5
Fuel is injected until the electronic control module To optimize engine performance and acceleration, an
signals the solenoid to open the fuel spill valve. With exhaust manifold with a divided turbocharger turbine
the fuel spill valve open, fuel passes out of the spill housing is used. It has the front three cylinders con-
port and the pressure at the injector tip drops, allow- nected to one entry on the split turbine housing of
ing the spring-loaded check valve to reseat and stop the turbocharger, and the rear three cylinders con-
fuel injection. The plunger continues down forcing nected to the other entry.
fuel out the spill port.
VALVE MECHANISM
AIR INLET AND EXHAUST The valves and valve mechanism control the flow of
SYSTEM (Fig. 7) inlet air and exhaust gases into and out of the cylin-
ders during engine operation. The camshaft has
The intake and exhaust systems are located on the
three cam lobes for each cylinder. Two lobes operate
right (passenger’s) side of the engine and are ar-
the intake and exhaust valves, and one operates the
ranged for air-to-air aftercooling only. After charge air
unit injector mechanism. Each cylinder has two in-
flows through the aftercooler, it goes to the intake
take and two exhaust valves.
manifold where it is distributed to three plenum
chambers in the cylinder head, and then through the
inlet valves to each cylinder.

SOLENOID
AIR−TO−AIR AFTERCOOLER
VALVE SOLENOID CONNECTION
ASSEMBLY
SPRING
air in
PLUNGER
VALVE
exhaust
SEAL out
BARREL
FILL PORT
SPILL
PORT SEAL f010142
Fig. 7
SPRING
SPACER
100 psi (689 kPa), is located in the filter base, and
BODY protects the filters and other components during cold
starts.
CHECK
VALVE
COOLANT FLOW (Fig. 10)
f010150 Engine coolant is pumped through the oil cooler and
into the supply manifold. The supply manifold, lo-
Fig. 6
cated in the cylinder block spacer block, distributes
coolant at each cylinder then flows around and cools
LUBRICATION SYSTEM (Fig. 8 the upper portion of the cylinder liner.
and Fig. 9) At each cylinder, coolant flow from the liner enters
The oil pump is attached to the back of the front gear the cylinder head, which is divided into two cooling
train on the lower right hand side of the engine. It is sections. In the cylinder head, coolant flows across
driven by an idler gear from the crankshaft gear. the center of the cylinder and the injector seat boss.
At the center of the cylinder, coolant flows up around
The lubrication system supplies filtered oil at about the injector sleeve, over the exhaust port, and exits
40 psi (275 kPa) under all engine operating condi- into the return manifold. The return manifold collects
tions. An oil pump bypass valve is controlled by en- the coolant from each cylinder and directs the flow to
gine oil manifold pressure rather than the oil pump the temperature regulator housing.
pressure. The oil manifold pressure then becomes
independent of the oil filter and oil cooler pressure
drop.
ENGINE ELECTRONICS
The electronic unit injector system eliminates many
The oil cooler bypass valve is thermostatically con-
of the mechanical components of a "pump and line"
trolled to maintain 230°F (110°C) oil-to-bearing tem-
system. It also provides increased control of timing
perature. A high-pressure relief valve, set to open at
and fuel-air ratio. Timing advance is achieved by pre-

VALVE MECHANISM
CAMSHAFT
BEARINGS
OIL GALLERY
PISTON PISTON PISTON

COOLING JET COOLING JET COOLING JET MAIN
BEARINGS
PRESSURE/TEMPERATURE
FILTER BYPASS BYPASS VALVE
SIGNAL LINE
SPOOL VALVE
OIL
FULL COOLER
FLOW COLD OIL
FILTER START PUMP
RELIEF
BYPASS
FILTER
SUMP
f010141
Fig. 8, Lubrication System
cise control of start of injection. Engine rpm is con- The "CHK ENG" light will begin a series of flashes
trolled by adjusting the duration of injection. that corresponds to a numeric diagnostic code. For
example, a code 25 is shown by two flashes, a
The engine has built-in diagnostics to ensure that all
pause of about 2 seconds, then a series of five short
components are operating properly Intermittent en-
flashes. See Fig. 11. If more than one code has
gine system problems are logged and stored in
been logged into the system, the "CHK ENG" light
memory. In case of a system component problem,
will flash the codes in sequence, with a pause of
the operator will be alerted to the condition by the
about three seconds between codes. See Table 2
"CHK ENG" light in the dashboard lightbar. When the
and Table 3 and Table 4 for listings of the diagnostic
system is not working correctly, the "CHK ENG" light
codes.
will stay on when the ignition is turned on, instead of
going out after ten seconds. Use the cruise control Also, Caterpillar service tools (Digital Diagnostic Tool
switches to determine the fault as follows: or Electronic Control Analyzer Programmer) can be
used to read the numerical code of the component or
1. Flip the ON/OFF switch to OFF. condition causing the problem. For complete informa-
2. Hold the SET/RESUME switch at RESUME. tion on the use of these service tools, contact a Cat-
erpillar service representative.

Fault Fault
Description Description
Code Code
21 Sensor Supply Power Fault 01 Override of Idle Shutdown Throttle
22 Not Used 25 Boost Pressure Sensor Fault
23 Not Used 27 Coolant Temperature Sensor Fault
24 Oil Pressure Sensor Fault 28 Check Throttle Sensor Adjustment
25 Boost Pressure Sensor Fault 31 Vehicle Speed Signal Fault
26 Not Used 32 Throttle Position Sensor Fault
27 Coolant Temperature Sensor Fault 34 Loss of Engine RPM Signal
31 Vehicle Speed Signal Fault 35 Engine Overspeed Warning
32 Throttle Position Sensor Fault 36 Vehicle Speed Signal Out-of-Range
34 Loss of Engine RPM Signal 37 Fuel Pressure Sensor Fault
35 Engine Overspeed Monitoring Fault 41 Vehicle Overspeed Warning
36 Vehicle Speed Overspeed 42 Check Sensor Calibrations
37 Fuel Pressure Sensor Fault 47 Idle Shutdown Timed Out
42 Check Sensor Calibrations 51 Intermittent Battery Power to ECM
43 Not Used Table 3, 3176 System Fault Codes (1991)
44 Not Used
45 Not Used Fault
Description
46 Low Oil Pressure Monitoring Fault Code
47 Idle Shutdown Timer 52 ECM or Personality Module Fault
52 ECM or Personality Module Fault 53 ECM Fault
53 ECM Fault 55 No Detected Faults
54 Data Link Fault 56 Check Customer Specified or System

Parameters
55 No Detected Faults
57 Parking Brake Switch Fault
56 Check Customer Specified or System
Parameters 63 Low Fuel Pressure Warning
57 Parking Brake Switch Fault 72 Cylinder 1 or Cylinder 2 Fault
61 High Coolant Temperature Monitoring Fault 73 Cylinder 3 or Cylinder 4 Fault
62 Low Coolant Level Monitoring Fault 74 Cylinder 5 or Cylinder 6 Fault
63 Fuel Pressure Fault Table 4, 3176 System Fault Codes (1991)
64 High Inlet Air Temperature Monitoring Fault

72 Cylinder 1 or Cylinder 2 Fault
75 Undetermined Cylinder Fault
Table 2, 3176 System Fault Codes (pre-1991)

Mechanical Throttle Linkage Checking
Checking (See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2)

10. Throttle Bracket
3 11. Pedal Stop
12. Throttle Pedal
3 13. Throttle Link
23 4 14. Rubber Cushion
3 8 15. Pivot Link
1 5 7
16. Breakover Spring
17. Nylon Bearing
9 18. 1/4−20 Hexhead
5 Capscrew
1
19. Throttle Arm
1
6
2
10
13
12
14
3 15
1. 1/4−20 Capscrew 16
2 2
2. Flatwasher
3. 1/4−20 Locknut 11
4. Return Springs 17
5. Spacer 2 8
6. Throttle Position Sensor
7. Internally Threaded 19 18
Spherical Bearing 2
Rod End 8
8. 1/4−20 Locknut
9. 1/4−28 Kep Nut
f300167
Fig. 1, Caterpillar 3176 Mechanical Throttle Linkage, FLD Conventional shown
NOTE: Most vehicles equipped with the 1991- 4. With the throttle pedal at idle, check the angle of
version Caterpillar 3176 engines do not have a the pedal to the pedal stop. The pedal must be
mechanical throttle linkage. These vehicles have at an angle of 20±2 degrees to the pedal stop.
an electronic throttle control, which is not adjust- See Fig. 3.
able. If the throttle pedal angle is too high or too low,
1. Check the linkage attachment fasteners (cap- loosen the pedal stop jam nut. Turn the head of
screws, locknuts, and hexnuts) for tightness; the pedal stop capscrew until the angle is 20±2
tighten any that are loose. degrees. Tighten the jam nut against the cab
deck.
2. Operate the linkage by hand, from idle to full
throttle, while checking that nothing interferes 5. Using either the Digital Diagnostic Tool (DDT), or
with its movement. Reposition any parts that in- the Electronic Control Analyzer Programmer
terfere. (ECAP), check the throttle position sensor cali-
bration. The calibration should be 15 to 20 per-
3. Inspect the return springs for wear, nicks, or cent at idle, or 80 to 85 percent at full throttle.
other damage that might cause breakage. If
needed, install new springs. If needed, adjust the throttle position sensor cali-
bration.

1. 1/4−20 Capscrew 9. Throttle Link

2. Flatwasher 10. Breakover Spring
3. Return Spring 11. Pivot Link
4 4. 1/4−20 Locknut 12. Nylon Bearing
3 5. Throttle Position Sensor 13. Rubber Cushion
3 6. Throttle Bracket 14. Throttle Arm
7. Internally Threaded 15. 1/4−20 Hexhead Capscrew
2 Spherical Bearing Rod End 16. Throttle Pedal
1 8. 1/4−28 Kep Nut 17. Pedal Stop
4
8 10 12 14
9 4
5 2
7
16 11
1 13
2 2
6 17 4
2 15
4 2
f300114
Fig. 2, Caterpillar 3176 Throttle Linkage (FLA COE shown)
NOTE: Checking and adjusting the sensor re-

quires the use of either the DDT, or the ECAP.
For complete information on the use of these
special tools, contact an authorized Caterpillar
dealer.

PEDAL
STOP 20
2
THROTTLE
JAM
PEDAL
NUT
CAB DECK
f300112
Fig. 3, Thottle Pedal Angle (FLD Conventional shown)

Caterpillar PEEC® Engines 01.04
General Information (See Fig. 1)
1
2
3
4
A
5
09/06/94 f010189a
NOTE: Not all parts are shown.
A. to vehicle speed sensor
1. J2/P2 Connector 3. Electronic Control Module 5. Personality Module
2. J1/P1 Connector 4. Vehicle Speed Buffer 6. Transducer Module
Fig. 1, PEEC Engine
The Caterpillar PEEC and PEEC III systems, avail- and "8TC" before the serial number; PEEC III sys-
able with 3406B engines, provide electronic engine tems have one 40-pin connector, and "4CK" before
control. The systems use an electronic control mod- the serial number.
ule, a transducer module, a timing advance unit, and Attached to the forward end of the electronic control
an electronic governor, all of which are located on
module is the personality module, which contains the
the engine. Additional system parts include a throttle basic performance program for that particular engine.
position sensor, a vehicle speed buffer, and a data A PEEC or PEEC III-equipped engine has the follow-
link.
ing electronic functions:
To determine whether an engine is equipped with
• Electronic governing
PEEC or PEEC III , check the Electronic Control
Module connectors and serial number (see Fig. 1 or • Control of fuel-to-air-ratio
Fig. 2). PEEC systems have two 9-pin connectors,

01.04 Caterpillar PEEC® Engines
J−7 CONNECTOR (40−Pin)

J−6 CONNECTOR (9−Pin)
ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULE
VEHICLE
SPEED BUFFER
To vehicle
speed sensor
PERSONALITY
MODULE
TRANSDUCER
MODULE NOTE: Not all parts are shown.
07/28/92 f010601
Fig. 2, PEEC III Engine
• Torque rise shaping

• Injection timing control
• System diagnostics
• Vehicle speed limiting
• Progressive shift control
05/11/92
• PTO governor f600584
• Cold mode operation Fig. 3
• Cruise control Principles of Operation

Two of these functions—cruise control and PTO
governing—are driver-activated, and controlled by ELECTRONIC CONTROL
two switches mounted to the right of the ignition
switch (Fig. 3). The remaining functions perform au- MODULE
tomatically and according to programmed specifica- The electronic control module, mounted on the left
tions. side of the engine, controls the injection pump and
the injection timing. It also provides electronic power
to the sensors on the engine, and monitors the over-
all operation of the system. The electronic control
module is cooled by fuel flowing through a cooling

plate, located between the electronic control module the system, the "CHK ENG" light will flash the codes
and the engine block. in sequence, with a pause of about 3 seconds be-
tween each code. See Table 1 and Table 2 for a list-
TRANSDUCER MODULE ing of the diagnostic codes.
The transducer module, mounted on the rear of the

injection pump, contains an engine oil pressure sen-
sor, an inlet air pressure sensor, and a boost pres-
sure sensor. The transducer module sends signals to
the electronic control module for engine speed and
the position of the injector pump rack. It also moni-
tors incoming air pressure.
TIMING ADVANCE UNIT

The timing advance unit, mounted on the front of the
engine, contains an electronic brushless torque
motor, which controls a hydraulic servo. The servo
controls the flow of oil to the drive carrier, which ad-
vances or retards the engine timing.
VEHICLE SPEED BUFFER

The vehicle speed buffer, located on top of the trans-
mission, amplifies and modulates the signals from 08/13/93 f010671
the magnetic vehicle speed sensor. These signals Fig. 4
are sent to the electronic control module (which inter-
prets them) and any other devices requiring vehicle
speed information.
A
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
The throttle position sensor links the throttle pedal 04/29/93 f010613
with the injection pump by way of the electronic con-

Fig. 5
trol module. It replaces conventional throttle linkage.
SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS Diagnostic Flash Codes

A PEEC or PEEC III-equipped engine has built-in Diagnostic Codes
diagnostics to ensure that all components are work- Fault Description
ing correctly. Intermittent engine problems are stored Code
in memory, and remain there until the ignition is
turned off. If there is a problem with the system, the 12 Coolant Level Sensor Fault (PEEC III only)
"CHK ENG" light on the dash lightbar will stay on, 21 Sensor Supply Voltage Fault
instead of going out after 10 seconds. 22 Rack Position Sensor Fault
To determine the system problem, push the "ENG 23 Timing Position Sensor Fault
CHK" button, located on the left (driver’s) side dash
kick panel, near the door post (see Fig. 4). The 24 Oil Pressure Sensor Fault
"CHK ENG" light will begin a series of flashes that 25 Boost Pressure Sensor Fault
correspond to a numeric diagnostic code. For ex- 27 Coolant Temperature Sensor Fault (PEEC III
ample, a code 25 is shown by two flashes, a pause only)
of about two seconds, then five short flashes. See
Fig. 5. If more than one code has been logged into

28 Check Throttle Sensor Adjustment (PEEC III

only)
31 Loss of Vehicle Speed Signal
32 Throttle Position Sensor Fault
33 Engine RPM Signal Out of Range
34 Engine RPM Signal Fault
35 Engine Overspeed Warning
36 Vehicle Speed Signal Fault
41 Vehicle Overspeed (PEEC only)
42 Check Sensor Calibrations
43 Rack Subsystem Fault
Table 1
Diagnostic Flash Codes

Diagnostic Codes
Fault Description
Code
44 Timing Subsystem Fault
45 Shutoff Solenoid Fault
46 Low Oil Pressure Warning
47 Idle Shutdown Occurrence
48 Excessive Engine Power
51 Intermittent Battery Power to the ECM (PEEC III
only)
52 Control or Personality Module Fault
53 Electronic Control Module Fault
54 Data Link Fault (PEEC only)
56 Check Customer or System Parameters
57 Parking Brake Switch Fault
58 Power Train Data Link Fault (PEEC III only)
61 High Coolant Temperature Warning (PEEC III
only)
62 Low Coolant Level Warning (PEEC III only)
Table 2

Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Apply the parking brakes, then chock the tires.
2. Drain the primary and secondary air tanks.
3. Tilt the cab. For instructions, refer to the vehicle
driver’s manual.
4. Disconnect the battery ground cable at the ve-
hicle frame. Disconnect the positive battery cable
from the batteries.
5. Disconnect the air conditioning system as fol-
lows:
5.1 Discharge the refrigerant from the air con- 06/26/95 f010001
ditioner system, using the instructions in
the air conditioning section in this manual. Fig. 1, Refrigerant Hoses Fastened to the Radiator Side
Channel
5.2 Disconnect the hoses from the refrigerant
compressor. B
Disconnect the refrigerant hoses from the
condenser and the radiator side channel.
See Fig. 1.
Plug all hoses, and cap all fittings.
5.3 Remove the fasteners that attach the re-
frigerant hose clamps to the engine front C D
cover. See Fig. 2, Ref. A.
6. Using an overhead hoist or fork lift, remove, as a
single unit (as equipped), the radiator, air-to-air
aftercooler, and refrigerant condenser. For in-
structions, refer to the radiator section in this A
manual. E
7. At the elbow fittings on the air compressor gover-
nor and air compressor, disconnect the air hoses
from the air tank. See Fig. 2, Refs. B, C, and D. 07/05/95 f010002
Plug the hoses, and cap the fittings.
Fig. 2, Hoses and Elbow Fittings
8. Disconnect the hoses from the power steering
reservoir and pump. Drain the power steering Remove any tie straps or hose clamps that at-
fluid, then plug the hoses, and cap the fittings. tach the fuel lines to the engine or transmission.
9. Disconnect the starter motor ground cable from 11. Mark the position of the clutch-release lever on
the ground weld-stud in the channel of the left the clutch-release shaft, then remove the release
frame rail. Remove the clamp attaching the cable lever from the shaft.
to the frame rail. 12. Remove all wiring harness clamps from the en-
10. Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the fuel gine. Separate the engine harness from the
transfer pump. Disconnect the fuel return hose chassis harness.
from the fitting near the rear of the top of the fuel 13. Disconnect the driveline from the transmission
injection pump housing. See Fig. 2, Ref. E. output yoke. Support the driveline on safety
stands.
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 21, October 1998 100/1

14. Remove the three bolts that connect the tele- pipe away from the turbocharger outlet and the
scoping shift tube flange to the shift tube exten- muffler inlet elbow.
sion flange. See Fig. 3.
15. Remove the four bolts that attach the shift tower 1
to the top of the transmission. See Fig. 4. Re-
move the shift tower from the transmission.
Cover the entire shift tower opening in the top of
the transmission with a clean piece of cardboard.
Fasten the cardboard in place with the shift
tower attachment bolts.
16. Disconnect the transmission support spring (if
equipped) from the frame rails. See Fig. 4.
17. Disconnect all the air lines and wiring from the
transmission, and mark them for assembly refer-
ence. See Fig. 5.
Plug the lines, and cap the fittings.
18. Disconnect the wiring connector at the oil level 2
sending unit on the oil pan. Disconnect the wiring
connections at the speedometer and tachometer 01/05/96 f010004a
magnetic pickup terminals. 1. Shift Tower
2. Transmission Support Spring
Fig. 4, Shift Tower on the Top of the Transmission
01/05/96 f010003a
1. Shift Tube Extension Flange
Fig. 3, Shift Tube Fasteners
19. Remove and discard the wide-band exhaust f010005

06/30/95
clamp from the lower end of the muffler inlet
elbow. Remove the flanged hexnuts from the Fig. 5, Air Line and Wiring Connections at the
saddle clamp. Transmission
20. At the turbocharger exhaust outlet pipe, discon-
22. On vehicles with dual exhausts, remove the
nect the wiring for the pyrometer (if equipped).
wide-band exhaust clamps that attach the ex-
See Fig. 6.
haust piping to both muffler inlet elbows. Remove
21. Loosen the V-type clamp (Fig. 6) at the turbo- the exhaust piping.
charger exhaust outlet pipe, and pull the exhaust
100/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 21, October 1998

6
2
1
1 1
2 2
3 3
4 4 7
5 5
01/11/96 f010007a
1. Flanged Locknut 5. Flanged Hexbolt
01/05/96 f010006a 2. Top Isolator 6. Front Engine-
1. Pyrometer Wiring Connection 3. Isolator Tube Support Bracket
2. V-Type Clamp 4. Bottom Isolator 7. Front Crossmember
Fig. 6, Exhaust Pipe at the Turbocharger Fig. 7, Front Engine Mounting
23. Disconnect the oil check and fill tube from the Installation
engine.
24. Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine. 1. Check all of the front and rear engine-support
parts for damage or extreme wear. Replace the
25. Mark the alternator wires, then disconnect them. parts as needed.
26. Attach an appropriate lifting device to an A-frame 2. Install the isolator tubes and top isolators in the
or an overhead crane. Move the A-frame or engine front crossmember. Coat the rubber
crane into place across the engine. mounts with soapy water, and install them in the
Attach the lifting device to the front and rear lift- rear engine mounts.
ing eyes of the engine.
27. Remove the rear engine-support bolts, lower
CAUTION
bearing washers, and locknuts. Don’t lubricate the components with oil, grease,
Remove the flanged locknuts, bolts, and bottom or silicone lubricants, which can soften the rub-
isolators from the front engine-support bracket ber and damage the mounts.
and the engine front crossmember. See Fig. 7. 3. Attach the lifting device to the engine lifting eyes.
28. Mark, then disconnect any electrical wiring that Attach the A-frame or overhead crane to the lift-
will interfere with engine removal. ing device.
29. Lift the engine and transmission up to remove, 4. Lift the engine and transmission high enough to
then set the engine and transmission on an en- clear the chassis. Lower the engine and trans-
gine stand or other suitable support. Remove the mission into position on the front and rear
lifting device. engine-support mounts.
30. Remove the rubber mounts from the rear engine 5. Install the rear engine-support bolts, bearing
mounts. washers, and locknuts. Tighten the locknuts 160
lbf·ft (217 N·m).
Remove the front engine-support top isolators
and isolator tubes from the front crossmember. 6. Position the bottom isolators on the front engine
support bolts. Install the bolts upward through
the engine front crossmember and front engine-

support bracket. Install the flanged locknuts; pro- 19. Connect the power steering hoses to the power
gressively tighten the locknuts to 210 lbf·ft (285 steering reservoir and the power steering pump.
N·m).
20. Connect the air-tank air hoses to the fittings on
7. Remove the lifting device. the air compressor and air compressor governor.
8. Install the clutch-release lever on the clutch- Connect all clamps that attach the air hoses to
release shaft, aligning the mark on the lever with the engine and transmission. Install new tie
the mark on the shaft. Tighten the release-lever straps (as necessary) to attach the air tank-to-
pinch bolt 40 lbf·ft (54 N·m). governor air hoses to the fuel hose.
9. Remove the cardboard cover from the opening in 21. Install the radiator assembly. For instructions,
the transmission, and lower the shift tower into refer to the radiator section in this manual.
place. Install the lockwashers and capscrews, 22. Connect the heater hoses to the engine. Attach
and tighten the capscrews 40 lbf·ft (54 N·m). the radiator hoses and associated clamps to the
10. Install the transmission support spring. Tighten engine. Tighten the hose clamps snug, but don’t
the bolts 125 lbf·ft (169 N·m). overtighten them.
11. Install the three bolts that connect the telescop- 23. Connect the air conditioning system as follows:
ing shift tube flange to the shift tube extension 23.1 At all refrigerant hose fittings, install a new
flange. Tighten the nuts 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m). rubber O-ring, and lubricate the O-rings
12. Connect the air lines and wiring to the transmis- and fitting threads with refrigerant oil.
sion, as previously marked. Apply Loctite® 242 or 592 to the male por-
tion of the fitting threads.
13. Connect the driveline to the transmission output
yoke. For instructions, refer to the driveline sec- 23.2 Connect the refrigerant hoses to the refrig-
tion in this manual. erant condenser.
14. Install the engine exhaust outlet pipe onto the 23.3 Connect the refrigerant hoses to the refrig-
turbocharger outlet, and tighten the V-type clamp erant compressor.
nut 85 lbf·in (940 N·cm). 24. Attach the refrigerant hose clamps to the engine
15. Install a new wide-band exhaust clamp at the front cover.
muffler inlet elbow(s). For instructions, refer to 25. Attach the oil check and fill tube to the engine.
the exhaust section in this manual. Install the
saddle clamp U-bolt that attaches the muffler 26. Connect the electrical wires for the speedometer,
inlet elbow to the support bracket(s). Tighten the tachometer, and the oil level sending unit.
saddle clamp flanged nuts alternately (in three 27. Attach all wiring harness clamps to the engine.
increments), to 24 lbf·ft (33 N·m). Connect the engine and chassis harness.
16. Attach the wiring for the pyrometer to the ex- 28. Connect the alternator wires.
haust outlet pipe.
29. Connect the positive battery cable to the batter-
17. Connect the fuel return hose to the fitting near ies. Connect the battery ground cable to the
the rear of the top of the fuel injection pump weld-stud on the vehicle frame.
housing. Connect the fuel supply hose to the fuel
transfer pump. Use tie straps and hose clamps 30. Fill the cooling system with coolant, using the
to attach the fuel lines to the engine and trans- instructions in the engine cooling section in this
mission. manual.
18. Connect the terminal of the starter motor ground 31. Fill and bleed the power steering system, using
cable to the ground weld-stud in the channel of the instructions in the steering section in this
the left frame rail. Tighten the nut 23 lbf·ft (31 manual.
N·m). Attach the ground cable clamp to the 32. Evacuate and charge the air conditioning system,
frame rail. using the instructions in the air conditioning sec-
tion in this manual.

Specifications
Engine Support Fasteners

Description Size Torque lbf·ft (N·m)
Rear Engine-Support Locknuts 5/8-11 160 (217)
Front Engine-Support Locknuts 3/4-10 210 (285)
Engine Leg-to-Flywheel Bolts M14 x 2 x 45 mm 100 (135)
Table 1, Engine Support Fasteners

Cummins PACE Electronic Engine 01.05
General Information and 2

Principles of Operation (See Fig. 1)
PACE is a programmable electronically-controlled

engine governing system available on Cummins L10
and NTC engines. This electronic engine system
uses sensors, control valves, a power distribution 1 5
module, and pressure time control module to auto- 3
matically control engine timing and fuel injection. The 4
PACE system provides the following engine govern-
ing modes:
• Variable speed governing, designed for power
6
takeoff operations, which works when the ve-
hicle is stopped. 1. Pressure Time Control Module (PTCM)
• Cruise control, which maintains vehicle speed 2. Power Distribution Module (PDM)
between operator selected limits. 3. Electronic Fuel Control (EFC)
4. Throttle Bypass Valve (TBV)
• Road speed governing, which limits the maxi- 5. Engine Position Sensor
mum vehicle speed to a preset fuel efficient 07/22/94
6. Vehicle Speed Sensor f150152
range.
Fig. 1
• Engine speed governing, which limits maxi-
mum engine rpm.
Two of these operating modes, cruise control and
variable speed governing, are driver-activated and
controlled with two switches mounted to the right of
the ignition switch (Fig. 2). The remaining operating
modes perform automatically and according to pro- 01/27/94 f600086
grammed specifications. Refer to the vehicle driver’s
manual for operating instructions. Fig. 2
The pressure time control module (PTCM) is a micro-
processor that controls and monitors the system. The
PTCM (Fig. 3) receives information from the engine
and vehicle speed sensors, and from the dash-
mounted switches to control fuel pressure. The
PTCM has a data link for the Compulink (Fig. 4), a
special tool that can be used to program customer
specified parameters and troubleshoot the system.
The PACE system uses two sensors: an engine posi-
tion sensor (EPS) and a vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
As the camshaft gear turns, the EPS provides rpm
information to the PTCM. On L10 engines, the EPS
is located above the accessory drive; on NTC en-
gines, it is located above the lubricating oil pump. 11/03/92 f150153
See Fig. 5. The VSS, mounted in the transmission
housing (Fig. 6), senses the movement of the fly- Fig. 3
wheel teeth when the engine is running. The PTCM the injectors in the cylinder head. Depending on the
uses this information to compute vehicle road speed. signal received from the PTCM, the EFC valve con-
The electric fuel control valve (EFC), installed on top trols road speed, cruise control, power takeoff, and
of the fuel pump housing (Fig. 7), provides fuel to engine high speed.

01.05 Cummins PACE Electronic Engine
turn the valve lever (Fig. 8) clockwise until it is

against the upper stop pin. This allows fuel to
bypass the EFC valve so that the vehicle can
be safely moved for repairs.
WARNING
WARNING: Do not use the cruise control or
PTCM power takeoff if the valve lever has been moved
clockwise against the upper stop pin. Use of
these features will cause a full throttle condition
which could result in loss of vehicle control and
COMPULINK possible property damage or personal injury.
f15_0154
The throttle bypass valve (TBV), installed on top of
Fig. 4 the electronic governor body (Fig. 7), is normally
closed, but opens when the cruise control or power
2 takeoff systems are in use. This allows fuel to by-
pass the throttle through the throttle bypass tube.
1 The amount of fuel is controlled by the EFC valve.
THROTTLE
BYPASS ELECTRONIC
VALVE FUEL
CONTROL
VALVE
06/22/93 A B f150155
Fig. 5
f15_0156
1
Fig. 7, Fuel Control Valves
The power distribution module (PDM), mounted on

the firewall (Conventionals) or the left frame rail near
the clutch bellcrank (COEs), is connected to the bat-
teries and supplies power to the PTCM. The PDM
also protects the PTCM from excessive voltage.
When the ignition switch is turned on, the two lights
on the PDM should be on (Fig. 9). Any time the
lights on the PDM are off, there is no power to the
PTCM.
08/30/93 f150397 The engine has built-in diagnostics to ensure that all
components are operating properly. There are two
Fig. 6 dash lights: the yellow "Eng Chk" light and the red
NOTE: If the engine stops due to loss of power "Shutdown" light. Both are located on the dashboard
lightbar, and both light up when the ignition is turned
to the EFC valve, or if the valve sticks closed,

on. If the PACE system and the engine are working

normally, both lights will go out after two seconds.
Intermittent engine system problems are logged and
stored in memory. Whenever there is an active en-
gine system problem, one of the lights will come on
and stay on as long as the problem exists.
Use the "Eng Chk" button, located near the left-side
door post, to determine the fault codes. Turn on the
ignition, then press and hold the button in.
If no fault codes are recorded, both dash lights will
come on and stay on. If fault codes are recorded,
both lights will come on momentarily, then the lights
will begin to flash the code of the recorded fault. f15_0158
First, the yellow "Eng Chk" light will flash. There will Fig. 9
be a short one or two second pause, then the num-
ber of the recorded fault code will flash the red
"Shutdown" light. There will be a one or two second 1 2 2 2 1
pause between each number. For example, a code
244 is shown by one flash of the yellow "Eng Chk" P P P P
light, a pause of about one or two seconds, followed
by two flashes of the red "Shutdown" light, a pause 3 4 5 5 3
of about one or two seconds, a series of four flashes
06/17/93 f150159
from the red "Shutdown" light, another pause of
about one or two seconds, a series of four more NOTE: P = Pause
flashes from the red "Shutdown" light, then, after a 1. Yellow
one or two second pause, one flash of the yellow 2. Red
"Eng Chk" light. See Fig. 10. When the number is 3. One Flash
done flashing, the yellow "Eng Chk" light will come 4. Two Flashes
5. Three Flashes
on again before the same sequence is repeated. The
lights will continue to flash the same fault code.
Fig. 10, Diagnostic Fault Code 244
to "Resume," then release it. When you are done

checking the fault codes, release the "Eng Chk" but-
ton. To clear all fault codes from the PTCM memory,
disconnect the nine-pin connector from the PDM for
thirty minutes.
The Compulink can be used to read the numerical
code of the component or condition causing the
problem. For complete information on the use of this
service tool, contact a Cummins service representa-
tive.
For complete information on fault diagnosis and
troubleshooting the PACE electronic engine system,
refer to the Troubleshooting and Repair Manual,
PACE Control System, and the PACE Fault Code
Fig. 8
Manual, available through your Cummins service rep-
To check for any additional fault codes, move the resentative.
cruise control switch to "Set," then release it. To view
a previous fault code, move the cruise control switch

Component Testing
Component Testing 2. Insert the pin from one of the test leads 3822758
(from the repair kit 3822926) into hole 3 (Fig. 5)
on the connector. Insert the other test lead into
Troubleshooting problems within the PACE engine
hole 7.
system are not covered in this manual. This section
covers only those components that are installed by Connect the test leads to the ohmmeter leads.
Freightliner at the factory. Use the Cummins Trouble- The resistance should be between 500 and 2000
shooting and Repair Manual, PACE Control System, ohms.
in conjunction with the "Component Testing" section
that follows for complete troubleshooting procedures. 3. If the reading in step 2 is not acceptable, check
the resistance for circuits N3 and N7 from the
A volt/ohmmeter and Cummins service tool 3822747 PTCM connector to the vehicle speed sensor.
(for removal/installation of the engine position sen-
sor) are needed for these procedures. Also, a wiring If the resistance is 10 ohms or less, go to step 4
repair kit 3822926 supplied by Cummins is needed, and check the sensor. If more than 10 ohms, re-
and contains all of the parts shown in Fig. 1. pair or replace the wiring as needed.
Before doing any troubleshooting procedures, check 4. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor from the
all of the PACE wiring harness connections for dam- wiring harness. Use the ohmmeter and measure
aged wires or pins. Make sure the connections are the resistance between the terminals of the sen-
tight, clean, and not damaged. Repair or replace sor connector (Fig. 6).
damaged wiring as needed. The resistance should be between 500 and 2000
Use the engine wiring diagram Group 54 of this ohms. If the resistance is not acceptable, replace
manual to locate the various electrical circuits in- the sensor.
stalled by Freightliner. IMPORTANT: During installation, hand-tighten
the sensor until it contacts a gear tooth. Then
CAUTION loosen it one-half to three-quarters of a turn.
Holding the sensor securely, tighten the jam nut
CAUTION: Before doing any welding on the ve-
hicle, disconnect both the positive and negative
25 lbf·ft (35 N·m).
battery cables. Make sure that the welding return
(ground) connection is not more than one foot ENGINE POSITION SENSOR
(30 cm) from the weld area. Failure to do so 1. At the PTCM, remove the capscrews that attach
could cause severe damage to the PTCM. the vehicle harness connector (Fig. 4). Carefully
Since most volt/ohmmeter readings will be taken at pull the connector straight out of the PTCM.
the vehicle harness connector, see Fig. 2 to locate 2. Insert the pin from one of the test leads 3822758
the test points. (from the repair kit 3822926) into hole 14 (Fig. 7)
NOTE: If the vehicle harness connector has hole 23.
been removed, always apply a thin coating of
Lubriplate DS-ES (Fig. 3) to the sealing area of Connect the test leads to the ohmmeter leads.
the connector before installation. Push the con- The resistance should be between 500 and 2000
ohms.
nector straight into the PTCM. Install and tighten
the capscrews 14 to 18 lbf·in (160 to 200 N·cm). 3. If the reading in step 2 is not acceptable, check
the resistance for circuits N14 and N23 from the
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR PTCM connector to the engine position sensor.
TESTING If the resistance is 10 ohms or less, go to step 4
and check the sensor. If more than 10 ohms, re-
1. At the PTCM, remove the capscrews that attach pair or replace the wiring as needed.
the vehicle harness connector (Fig. 4). Carefully
pull the connector straight out of the PTCM. 4. Using the Cummins special tool 3822747
(Fig. 8), disconnect the EPS from the wiring har-

Component Testing
P/N P/N P/N P/N P/N P/N P/N

3822924 3822758 3822923 3822922 3822921 3822920 3822919
LUBRIPLATE
YELLOW
P/N 3822760
P/N 3822934
FEMALE MALE
DEUTSCH
FEMALE MALE AMP

8 INCH WEATHER WEATHER
PACK PACK DEUTSCH SEUTSCH REPAIR
TIE
REPAIR REPAIR REPAIR REPAIR WIRE
WRAP
WIRE WIRE
P/N WIRE WIRE
3822917
GREEN
Lubrip
TEST
late
LEADS
TERMINAL REMOVAL TOOLS

P/N
BRAID REMOVAL TOOL
(RED) AMP TOOL 3822759

P/N
P/N 3822932
(BLACK) WEATHER PACK TOOL

3822608
P/N
WIRE CRIMP TOOL 3822930
12/06/95 f150178
Fig. 1, Cummins Wiring Repair Kit 3822926
Fig. 2, Vehicle Harness Connector Test Points

ness. Use the ohmmeter and measure the resis-
tance across the two inner terminals (pins "B"
and "C") of the sensor connector ( Fig. 9).
The resistance should be between 500 and 2000
ohms. If the resistance is not acceptable, replace
Fig. 3
the sensor.
NOTE: Use Cummins special tool 3822747 to CLUTCH SWITCH
install the EPS. Tighten the sensor 25 lbf·ft (35 1. At the PTCM, remove the capscrews that attach
N·m). the vehicle harness connector (Fig. 4). Carefully
pull the connector straight out of the PTCM.

Component Testing
14 23
PTCM
f150160 10/10/94 f150162
Fig. 4 Fig. 7
11/03/92 f150398
Fig. 5 Fig. 8
Fig. 6 Fig. 9

Component Testing
2. Insert the pin from one of the test leads 3822758 released, ground the disconnected test lead and
(from the repair kit 3822926) into hole 4 (Fig. 10) check for an electrical short. The ohmmeter
on the connector. Insert the other test lead into should show an open circuit. If the reading
hole 10. shows a closed circuit, replace the clutch switch.
Connect the test leads to the ohmmeter leads.
With the clutch pedal released, the reading
should show a closed circuit (between 0.0 and
0.5 ohm).
Press the clutch pedal to the floor. The reading
should show an open circuit.
3. If the readings in the step above are not accept-
able, check the clutch switch circuits N4 and N10
for electrical shorts.
Remove the test lead from hole 10 in the vehicle CLUTCH
harness connector. With the clutch pedal re- SWITCH
leased, ground the disconnected test lead. If the
ohmmeter shows an open circuit, go to step 4
and check the clutch switch. If the reading shows
a closed circuit, repair or replace the wiring as
needed.
4. Disconnect the clutch switch from the wiring har-
ness. See Fig. 11 or Fig. 12 . Use the ohmme-
ter and measure the resistance between the ter-
minals of the clutch switch connector.
With the clutch pedal released, the reading
should show a closed circuit. Press the clutch
pedal to the floor. The reading should now show
an open circuit. If either of the readings are not
acceptable, replace the clutch switch.
CLUTCH
PEDAL
SHAFT
10
4
f250072
09/12/91 f150165
Fig. 11, Clutch Switch Mounting (Conventional shown)
Fig. 10 BRAKE SWITCH

5. If the readings in the preceding step are accept- NOTE: If necessary, start the engine and build
able, remove a test lead from one of the clutch system air pressure to at least 100 psi (689
switch connector terminals. With the clutch pedal kPa). Then shut down the engine.

Component Testing
10
13
07/22/94 f150166
11/06/92 f010107
Fig. 13
Fig. 12, Clutch Switch Mounting (COE shown)
pedal. The reading should now show an open
1. At the PTCM, remove the capscrews that attach circuit. If either of the readings are not accept-
the vehicle harness connector (Fig. 4). Carefully able, replace the brake switch.
pull the connector straight out of the PTCM.
5. If the readings in the step above are acceptable,
2. Insert the pin from one of the test leads 3822758 remove a test lead from one of the brake switch
(from the repair kit 3822926) into hole 10 terminals. With the brake pedal released, ground
(Fig. 13) on the connector. Insert the other test the disconnected testlead and check for an elec-
lead into hole 13. trical short.
Connect the test leads to the ohmmeter leads. The ohmmeter should show an open circuit. If
With the brake pedal released, the reading the reading shows a closed circuit, replace the
should show a closed circuit (between 0.0 and brake switch.
0.5 ohm).
Step on the brake pedal. The reading should THROTTLE SWITCH
show an open circuit. 1. At the PTCM, remove the capscrews that attach
3. If the readings in the step above are not accept- the vehicle harness connector (Fig. 4). Carefully
able, check the brake switch circuits N10 and pull the connector straight out of the PTCM.
N13 for electrical shorts. 2. Insert the pin from one of the test leads 3822758
Remove the test lead from hole 10 in the vehicle (from the repair kit 3822926) into hole 10
harness connector. With the brake pedal re- (Fig. 16) on the connector. Insert the other test
leased, ground the disconnected lead into hole 6.
test lead. If the ohmmeter shows an open circuit, Connect the test leads to the ohmmeter leads.
go to the next step and check the brake switch. With the throttle pedal released, the reading
If the reading shows a closed circuit, repair or should show a closed circuit (between 0.0 and
replace the wiring as needed. 0.5 ohm).
4. At the air/oil junction block (port number 3), dis- Step on the throttle pedal. The reading should
connect the brake switch from the wiring har- show an open circuit.
ness. See Fig. 14 or Fig. 15 . Use the ohmme- 3. If the readings in the step above are acceptable,
ter and measure the resistance between the check the throttle switch circuits N6 and N10 for
terminals of the brake switch. electrical shorts.
With the brake pedal released, the reading Remove the test lead from hole 10 in the vehicle
should show a closed circuit. Step on the brake harness connector. With the throttle pedal re-

Component Testing
engine block. If the ohmmeter shows an open

circuit, go to the next step and check the throttle
switch. If the reading shows a closed circuit, re-
pair or replace the wiring as needed.
4. Disconnect the throttle switch from the wiring
harness (Fig. 17). Connect the ohmmeter leads
to the terminals in the throttle switch connector
(Fig. 18).
Move the throttle lever arm counterclockwise
(Fig. 19) until it stops. The ohmmeter reading
should show an open circuit. If the circuit is not
open, replace the throttle switch.
Move the throttle lever arm clockwise (Fig. 19)
11/06/92 f540176
until it stops. The ohmmeter reading should show
Fig. 14, Conventional Air/Oil Junction Block a closed circuit. If the circuit is open, replace the
throttle switch.
IMPORTANT: The throttle lever arm should de-
press the throttle switch about 1/8 inch (3 mm).
If it doesn’t depress the switch 1/8 inch (3 mm),
adjust the throttle lever arm. If the ohmmeter
reading still doesn’t show a closed circuit, re-
place the throttle switch.
5. If the readings in the step above are acceptable,
remove a test lead from one of the throttle switch
terminals. Move the throttle lever arm clockwise
(Fig. 19) until it stops. Ground the disconnected
test lead and check for an electrical short.
The ohmmeter should show an open circuit. If
11/05/92 f540175 the reading shows a closed circuit, replace the
brake switch.
Fig. 15, COE Air/Oil Junction Block
6
10
11/04/92 f150167
Fig. 16 Fig. 17
leased, ground the disconnected test lead to the

Component Testing
3. If the readings in the preceding step are not ac-

ceptable, check the cruise control "On/Off" switch
circuits N2 and N10 for electrical shorts.
Remove the test lead from hole 2 in the vehicle
harness connector. With the cruise control switch
"On," ground the disconnected test lead. If the
ohmmeter shows an open circuit, go to the next
step and check the switch. If the reading shows
a closed circuit, repair or replace the wiring as
needed.
11/09/92 f150399
Fig. 18 2 10
11/04/92 f150170
Fig. 20
counterclockwise clockwise
11/04/92 f150169
Fig. 19 01/27/94 f600086
CRUISE CONTROL SWITCHES Fig. 21
1. At the PTCM, remove the capscrews that attach 4. Inside the cab, remove the screws that attach
the vehicle harness connector (Fig. 4). Carefully the cruise control panel to the dash. Pull out the
pull the connector straight out of the PTCM. panel to access the back of the "On/Off" switch.
Disconnect the switch from the wiring harness.
2. Insert the pin from one of the test leads 3822758 Use the ohmmeter and measure the resistance
(from the repair kit 3822926) into hole 2 (Fig. 20) between the terminals of the "On/Off" switch.
hole 10. With the switch "Off," the reading should show
an open circuit. With the switch "On," the reading
Connect the test leads to the ohmmeter leads. should show a closed circuit. If the readings are
Move the cruise control "On/Off" switch "Off" not acceptable, replace the switch.
(Fig. 21). The reading should show an open cir-
cuit. 5. Insert the pin from one of the test leads 3822758
into hole 10 (Fig. 22) on the connector. Insert the
Move the cruise control "On/Off" switch "On." other test lead into hole 12.
The reading should show a closed circuit (be-
tween 0.0 and 0.5 ohm).

Component Testing
Connect the test leads to the ohmmeter leads. Remove the test lead from hole 22 in the vehicle
Hold the cruise control "Set/Resume" switch in harness connector. Holding the "Set/Resume"
the "Set" position. The reading should show a switch in the "Resume" position, ground the dis-
closed circuit (between 0.0 and 0.5 ohm). connected test lead. If the ohmmeter shows an
open circuit, do the next two steps and check the
Hold the cruise control "Set/Resume" switch in
switch. If the reading shows a closed circuit, re-
the "Resume" position. The reading should show
pair or replace the wiring as needed.
an open circuit.
9. At the back of the "Set/Resume" switch, discon-
nect the switch from the wiring harness. Use the
ohmmeter and measure the resistance between
the top and center terminals (Fig. 24) of the "Set/
Resume" switch.
With the switch in the "Set" position, the reading
12 should show an open circuit. With the switch in
10
the "Resume" position, the reading should show
a closed circuit. If either of the readings is not
acceptable, replace the switch.
10. At the back of the "Set/Resume" switch, use the
ohmmeter and measure the resistance between
the bottom and center terminals (Fig. 25) of the
11/04/92 f150171 "Set/Resume" switch.
Fig. 22 With the switch in the "Set" position, the reading
should show a closed circuit. With the switch in
6. If the readings in the step above are not accept- the "Resume" position, the reading should show
able, check the cruise control "Set/Resume" an open circuit. If neither reading is acceptable,
switch circuits N10 and N12 for electrical shorts. replace the switch.
Remove the test lead from hole 12 in the vehicle
harness connector. Holding the "Set/ Resume" ENGINE CHECK BUTTON
switch in the "Set" position, ground the discon- 1. At the PTCM, remove the capscrews that attach
nected test lead. If the ohmmeter shows an open the vehicle harness connector (Fig. 4). Carefully
circuit, do the last two steps under this heading pull the connector straight out of the PTCM.
and check the switch. If the reading shows a
closed circuit, repair or replace the wiring as
needed.
7. Insert the pin from one of the test leads 3822758
into hole 10 (Fig. 23) on the connector. Insert the
other test lead into hole 22.
Connect the test leads to the ohmmeter leads. 22 10
the "Set" position. The reading should show an
open circuit.
the "Resume" position. The reading should show
a closed circuit (between 0.0 and 0.5 ohm).
11/04/92 f150172
able, check the cruise control "Set/Resume" Fig. 23
switch circuits N10 and N22 for electrical shorts.

Component Testing
09/16/91 f150173 11/04/92 f150174
Fig. 24 Fig. 25
(from the repair kit 3822926) into hole 10
(Fig. 26) on the connector. Insert the other test
lead into hole 21.
Connect the test leads to the ohmmeter leads.
Push the engine check button in. The reading
should show a closed circuit (between 0.0 and 21 10
0.5 ohm).
Release the button. The reading should show an
open circuit.
able, check the switch circuits N10 and N21 for
10/10/94 f150342
electrical shorts.
Remove the test lead from hole 10 in the vehicle Fig. 26
harness connector. Push the engine
VEHICLE HARNESS CONNECTOR
check button in and ground the disconnected test
lead. If the ohmmeter shows an open circuit, go 1. At the PTCM, remove the capscrews that attach
to step 4 and check the switch. If the reading the vehicle harness connector (Fig. 4). Carefully
shows a closed circuit, repair or replace the wir- pull the connector straight out of the PTCM.
ing as needed. 2. Insert the pin from one of the test leads 3822758
4. Remove the engine check button from the left- (from the repair kit 3822926) into hole 16
hand door post. Disconnect the check button (Fig. 27) on the connector.
from the wiring harness. Connect the ohmmeter Connect the other test lead to the engine block.
leads to the two terminals. Connect the test leads to the voltmeter. The
With the button released, the reading should reading should be 4 to 6 volts.
show an open circuit. With the button pushed in, Remove the test lead from hole 16, and insert it
the reading should show a closed circuit. into hole 25 (Fig. 28). With the other lead con-
If neither reading is acceptable, replace the nected to the engine block, the reading should
switch. be 4 to 6 volts.
If both of the readings are acceptable, go to the
next step.

Component Testing
If neither of the above readings is acceptable,

replace the vehicle harness connector.
(from the repair kit 3822926) into hole 10 on the
connector. Connect the other end of the lead to
the voltmeter positive lead. Connect the negative
voltmeter lead to the engine block.
Turn on the ignition switch. The reading should
be 4 to 6 volts.
If the above reading is not acceptable, replace
the vehicle harness connector.
10 to 15 volts
16
to
engine block
10/10/94 f150394
Fig. 27
10 to 15 volts
25
to
engine block
10/10/94 f150395
Fig. 28

Cummins NTC-400 (PACE) Engine, 120 Conventional 01.06
Removal 7. Tilt the hood until it is balanced over the pivots to

relieve tension from the tilt-assist spring. While a
coworker is holding the hood in this position, dis-
1. Apply the parking brakes, then chock the tires.
connect the tilt-assist cables from the brackets
2. Drain the primary and secondary air tanks. on top of the radiator at each side.
3. Remove the grille. Refer to the hood section in 8. Carefully lower the hood onto the support.
this manual for instructions.
9. If equipped with an air conditioner, proceed as
4. Tilt the hood. follows:
5. Disconnect the battery ground cable at the ve- 9.1 Discharge the refrigerant from the air con-
hicle frame. Disconnect the positive battery cable ditioner system, using the instructions in
from the batteries. the air conditioning section in this manual.
Remove the battery cables from the standoff 9.2 Disconnect the discharge hose from the
brackets under the transmission and the engine. refrigerant compressor. See Fig. 3. Dis-
See Fig. 1. connect the hoses from the condenser.
6. Block the hood from tilting beyond its full-open See Fig. 4. Plug all hoses, and cap all
position by placing a support between the floor fittings.
and the front of the hood. Place cardboard, car- 9.3 Remove any refrigerant hoses that are
peting, rags, or other padding on top of the sup- routed along the top of the engine and
port to protect the hood. The lowest edge of the secure them with tie straps to the front-
hood should rest on the supports. The supports wall.
should be as wide and long as the front of the
hood. See Fig. 2. 10. Remove the radiator brace rods from the brace-
rod brackets at the frontwall.
11. Using an overhead hoist, remove, as a single
unit, the radiator, air-to-air aftercooler, and refrig-
erant condenser, as equipped. For instructions,
refer to the radiator assembly section in this
manual.
12. Disconnect the hoses from the power steering
reservoir and pump. See Fig. 5. Drain the power
steering fluid, then plug the hoses, and cap the
fittings.
13. Disconnect the starter motor ground cable from
the ground weld-stud in the channel of the left
frame rail. Remove the clamp attaching the cable
to the frame rail.
12/03/92 f010008
Mark the starter wires, then disconnect them.
14. Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the fuel
Fig. 1, Battery Cable Stand-Off Brackets filter. See Fig. 6. Disconnect the fuel return hose
from the engine. Plug the hoses and cap the fit-
WARNING tings.
When there is tension on the tilt-assist spring, do 15. At the elbow fittings on the air compressor gover-
not disconnect the tilt-assist cables or spring. If nor, disconnect the air hoses to the air tank. On
the spring or cables are disconnected while the the air compressor, remove the discharge line.
spring is under tension, they could whip and See Fig. 7. Plug the hoses, and cap the fittings.
cause personal injury. Disconnect all clamps that attach the air hoses to
the engine and transmission.

01.06 Cummins NTC-400 (PACE) Engine, 120 Conventional
11/25/1992 f010010
Fig. 3, Refrigerant Discharge Hose

1
2
03/31/95 f880004a
Fig. 2, Hood Tilted Onto Support
16. Disconnect the throttle rod from the throttle pedal

arm.
17. Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine
and secure them to the frontwall. Remove the
radiator hoses and clamps from the engine.
18. At the transmission, disconnect the air lines to
the splitter (if equipped), and mark the lines for
assembly reference.
Disconnect the transmission air supply line at the
transmission. Mark the line for assembly refer-
ence.
Plug the lines, and cap the fittings.
19. Remove the shift tower from the top of the trans-
mission. Use a tie strap to attach the shift lever 12/03/1992 f010011
to the steering wheel, to keep it up and out of
Fig. 4, Refrigerant Hose Connections
the way.
Cover the entire shift tower opening in the top of
the transmission with a clean piece of cardboard.

07/05/95 f010659
Fig. 7, Air Compressor Discharge Line

06/30/95 f010012a
A. Disconnect Both Power Steering Hoses. 20. Mark the position of the clutch-release lever on
the clutch-release shaft, then remove the release
Fig. 5, Power Steering Hoses lever from the shaft.
21. Disconnect the transmission support spring (if
equipped) from the transmission, and remove it.
22. Disconnect the driveline from the transmission
output yoke. For instructions, refer to the drive-
line section in this manual. Support the driveline
on safety stands.
23. Remove the bolts, spacers, and nuts that attach
the cab-mount (overslung) crossmember to the
frame-mounted engine support brackets. Re-
move the overslung crossmember.
24. Disconnect the oil level sending unit from the oil
pan. Disconnect the wiring connections at the
speedometer and tachometer magnetic pickup
sensors.
25. At the turbocharger exhaust outlet pipe, discon-
nect the wiring for the pyrometer (if equipped).
See Fig. 8.
Loosen the V-type clamp at the turbocharger ex-
haust outlet pipe, and pull the exhaust pipe away
from the turbocharger outlet. See Fig. 8.
07/05/95 f010013
26. Loosen the hose clamps (Fig. 9) and remove
the rubber connecting hose that attaches to the
Fig. 6, Fuel Supply Hose air cleaner and the aluminum tube.
Fasten the cardboard in place with the shift Remove the fasteners that attach the air cleaner
tower attachment bolts. to the air intake duct and mounting bracket. See
Fig. 10. Remove the air cleaner.

27. Mark all wires for the PACE engine control sys-
tem, then disconnect them.
28. Mark the alternator wires, then disconnect them.
See Fig. 11.
2
1
01/05/96 f010015a
1. Pyrometer Wiring Connection 01/05/96 f010016a
2. V-Type Clamp
1. Air Cleaner
2. Hose Clamps
Fig. 8, Exhaust Pipe at the Turbocharger
29. Attach an appropriate lifting device to an A-frame Fig. 9, Air Cleaner Hose
or an overhead crane. Move the A-frame or
crane into place across the engine.
Attach the lifting device to the front and rear lift- 1
ing eyes of the engine.
30. Remove the rear engine-support bolts, lower
bearing washers, and locknuts. Remove the
flanged locknuts, bolts, and bottom isolators from
the front engine-support bracket and the engine
front crossmember.
NOTE: To allow removal of the front engine-
support fasteners, if needed, remove the relay 2
valve bracket from the engine front crossmem-
ber, and move the relay valve and bracket out
of the way.
31. Lift the engine and transmission up a few inches;
pull the engine forward an inch or two; lift it a
few inches more; pull it forward a few inches; 03/05/96 f090003a
then lift it up and forward to remove.
1. Air Intake Duct
32. Set the engine and transmission on an engine 2. Mounting Bracket
stand or other suitable support, and remove the
lifting device. Fig. 10, Air Cleaner Attachments

5. Using a floor jack, raise the transmission high

enough to allow insertion and alignment of the
rear engine-support upper isolators and bearing
washers. Support the transmission on a safety
stand, just in front of or just behind the floor jack.
Install and align the upper isolators and bearing
washers, and install the rear engine-support
bolts. Remove the safety stand, lower the trans-
mission, and remove the floor jack.
WARNING
Failure to position a safety stand under the trans-
mission could result in personal injury if the en-
gine and transmission assembly were to shift or
drop.
07/05/95 f010018
6. Position the cab-mount (overslung) crossmember
Fig. 11, Alternator Wires against the back of the frame mounted cab-
support brackets. Using new bolts, install the
33. Remove the rear engine-support upper bearing longer attachment bolts with washers in the
washers and upper isolators from both of the upper holes, and the shorter bolts with washers
frame-mounted engine-support brackets. in the lower holes. Install new nuts, and progres-
Remove the front engine-support top isolators, sively tighten them to 70 lbf·ft (95 N·m).
isolator tubes, and bushings from the front cross- 7. Install the lower, rear engine-support isolators,
member. lower bearing washers, and locknuts on the bot-
tom of the rear engine-support bolts. Tighten the
Installation locknuts 160 lbf·ft (217 N·m).
8. Position the bearing washers on the front engine-
1. Check all of the front and rear engine support support bolts. Install the bolts upward through
components for damage and extreme wear. Re- the front engine-support bracket and the engine
place the components as needed. front crossmember. Install the flanged locknuts;
progressively tighten the locknuts to 210 lbf·ft
2. Install the isolator tubes and the top isolators in
(285 N·m).
the engine front crossmember. Coat the rubber
mounts with soapy water, and install them in the 9. Remove the lifting device.
rear engine mounts. 10. If it was removed, install the relay valve and
bracket on the engine front crossmember.
CAUTION Tighten the nuts 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m).
Don’t lubricate the components with oil, grease, 11. Install the clutch-release lever on the clutch-
or silicone lubricants, because they will soften release shaft, aligning the mark on the lever with
the rubber and damage the mounts. the mark on the shaft. Tighten the release-lever
pinch bolt 40 lbf·ft (54 N·m).
3. Attach the lifting device to the engine lifting eyes.
Attach the A-frame or overhead crane to the lift- 12. Remove the cardboard cover from the opening in
ing device. the transmission, and lower the shift tower into
place. Install the lockwashers and capscrews.
4. Lift the engine and transmission high enough to Tighten the capscrews 40 lbf·ft (54 N·m).
clear the chassis. Lower the engine and trans-
mission into position on the front and rear 13. Install the transmission support spring. Tighten
engine-support mounts. the bolts 125 lbf·ft (169 N·m).

14. Connect the air lines to the splitter (if so radiator support lower isolators on the front
equipped), as previously marked. crossmember.
15. Connect the transmission air supply line to the 29. Install the radiator assembly. For instructions,
transmission. refer to the radiator section in this manual.
16. Connect the driveline to the transmission output 30. Connect the three radiator brace rods to the
yoke. For instructions, refer to the driveline sec- brace rod rear brackets. Tighten the brace rod
tion in this manual. fasteners 70 lbf·ft (95 N·m).
17. Install the engine exhaust outlet pipe onto the 31. If equipped with an air conditioner:
turbocharger outlet, and tighten the V-type clamp
nut 85 lbf·in (940 N·cm). Connect the wiring for 31.1 At all refrigerant hose fittings, install a new
the pyrometer, if equipped. rubber O-ring, and lubricate the O-rings
and fitting threads with refrigerant oil.
18. Install the air cleaner on the air intake duct and Apply Loctite® 242 or 592 to the male por-
the mounting bracket. Using hose clamps, install tion of the fitting threads.
the rubber connecting hose on the air cleaner
inlet and the aluminum tube. Tighten the clamp 31.2 Connect the refrigerant hoses to the refrig-
screws 70 to 80 lbf·in (800 to 900 N·cm). erant condenser, and compressor.
19. Attach the fuel return hose clamp to the fuel filter 32. Tilt the hood until it is balanced over the pivots.
mounting plate. Connect the fuel return hose to While a coworker holds the hood in this position,
the engine, and the fuel supply hose to the fuel connect the tilt assist cables to the brackets on
filter. top of the radiator at each side. If cable links are
used, apply Loctite 242 to the threads on the
20. Connect the terminal of the starter motor ground cable links before screwing them closed.
cable to the ground weld-stud in the channel of
the left frame rail. Tighten the cap nut 23 lbf·ft 33. Remove the hood supports from the front of the
(31 N·m). As marked earlier, connect the wiring vehicle and tilt the hood all the way open.
to the starter. 34. As marked earlier, connect the wires for the
21. Attach the battery cables to the standoff brackets PACE engine control system.
under the engine and transmission. 35. Connect the alternator wires.
22. Attach the throttle rod to the throttle pedal arm. 36. Connect the positive battery cable to the batter-
For instructions, refer to the throttle linkage sec- ies. Connect the negative battery cables.
37. Fill the cooling system with coolant, using the
23. Connect the power steering hoses to the power instructions in the radiator section in this manual.
steering reservoir and the power steering pump.
38. Fill and bleed the power steering system, using
24. Connect the air-tank air hoses to the elbow fit- the instructions in the steering section in this
tings on the air compressor governor. Attach the manual.
discharge line to the air compressor.
39. If equipped with air conditioning, evacuate and
25. Connect all clamps that attach the air hoses to charge the system, using the instructions in the
the engine and transmission. air conditioning section in this manual.
26. Connect the heater hoses to the engine. Attach 40. Install the grill. Refer to the hood section in this
the radiator hoses and associated clamps to the manual for instructions.
engine. Tighten the hose clamps snug, but don’t
overtighten them.
27. Connect the speedometer, tachometer, and the
oil level sending unit wiring connections.
28. Inspect the radiator support isolators for wear or
damage, and replace them as needed. Place the

Specifications
Engine Support Fasteners

Torque
Description Size
lbf·ft (N·m)
Overslung Crossmember Bolts 1/2–13 70 (95)
Rear Engine-Support Locknuts 5/8–11 160 (217)
Front Engine-Support Locknuts 3/4–10 210 (285)
Engine Leg-to-Flywheel Bolts 3/4-10 x 1.75 inches 190 (258)
Table 1, Engine Support Fasteners

Drive Belts 01.07
Removal, Installation, and Adjustment, Cummins
NTC
Removal teners (Refs. E and F) that attach the alternator

to the adjusting link and the mounting bracket.
REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR 2. Back off the adjusting nut (Ref. B), to allow the
alternator to be moved toward the drive pulley far
BELT ( See Fig. 1 ) enough to remove the drive belt without prying or
1. Back off the adjusting nut (Ref. E), then loosen twisting it.
the mounting nuts (Refs. A and F) and the ad- 3. Push in on the alternator, and remove the belt.
justing link bolt (Ref. B) just enough to allow
movement of the compressor.
2. Push the loosened compressor toward the ac-
Installation
cessory drive pulley until the distance between
them is short enough to allow belt removal with- ALTERNATOR BELTS ( See Fig. 3 )
out using force. 1. Inspect the pulleys and used alternator belts
3. Remove the belt, without prying or rolling it off of (even if new belts are being installed) as in-
the pulleys. structed in Subject 180.
2. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is
FAN BELTS ( See Fig. 2 ) short enough to allow belt installation without us-
1. Remove the refrigerant compressor belt, if so ing force.
equipped. 3. Install the belts on the pulleys without prying or
2. Loosen the nuts on the bolts (Ref. A) that secure rolling them into place.
the fan hub to the fan hub bracket. 4. Back off the jam nut (Ref. D) to the end of the
3. Turn the fan hub adjusting bolt (Ref. B) until adjusting rod.
there is minimal distance between the pulley 5. While keeping the belts seated in the pulley
centers. grooves, turn the adjusting nut (Ref. B) against
4. Remove both fan belts by slipping them off of the the adjusting link (Ref. C) to increase belt ten-
pulleys and working them over one fan blade at sion. Use your thumb to apply about 25 lbs (11
a time. Don’t roll or pry the belts off of the pul- kg) of force at the center of the belt free-span to
leys; the distance between the pulley centers check the tension while turning the nut. When
must be short enough to allow belt removal with- belt deflection equals one belt thickness per foot
out using force. (305 mm) of pulley-center distance, proceed to
"Adjustment: Alternator Belts."
WATER PUMP BELT ( See Fig. 2 ) WATER PUMP BELT ( See Fig. 2 )
1. Remove the refrigerant compressor belt (if so
equipped) and both fan belts. 1. Inspect the pulleys and used water pump belt
(even if a new belt is being installed) as in-
2. Loosen the locknut that secures the idler pulley structed in Subject 180.
(Ref. D) to the water pump.
3. Turn the idler pulley adjusting bolt (Ref. C) until short enough to allow belt installation without us-
there is minimal distance between the pulley ing force.
centers.
3. Install the belt on the pulleys without prying or
4. Remove the belt, without prying or rolling it off of rolling it into place. Be sure the ribs on the belt
the pulleys. are seated in the grooves on each pulley.
ALTERNATOR BELTS ( See Fig. 3 ) 4. While keeping the belt seated in the pulley
grooves, turn the idler pulley adjusting bolt (Ref.
1. Loosen the fastener (Ref. A) that attaches the C) to increase belt tension. Use your thumb to
adjusting rod to the engine, and loosen the fas- apply about 25 lbs (11 kg) of force at the center

01.07 Drive Belts
NTC
REFRIGERANT
COMPRESSOR
A B
C
D
E
Inboard View
(from right side)
Front of
NTC Engine
Outboard View
(from left side)
09/03/92 f150001
Fig. 1
of the belt free-span to check the tension while to increase belt tension. Use your thumb to apply
turning the bolt. When belt deflection equals one about 25 lbs (11 kg) of force at the center of the
belt thickness per foot (305 mm) of pulley-center belt free-span to check the tension while turning
distance, proceed to "Adjustment: Water Pump the bolt. When belt deflection equals one belt
Belt." thickness per foot (305 mm) of pulley-center dis-
tance, proceed to "Adjustment: Fan Belts."
FAN BELTS ( See Fig. 2 )
1. If the water pump belt was removed, install and
REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR
adjust it first. BELT ( See Fig. 1 )
2. Inspect the pulleys and used fan belts (even if 1. If the water pump belt or fan belts were re-
new belts are being installed) as instructed moved, install and adjust them first.
in Subject 180. 2. Inspect the pulleys and used refrigerant com-
3. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is pressor belt (even if a new belt is being installed)
short enough to allow belt installation without us- as instructed in Subject 180.
ing force. 3. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is
4. Work the belts over the fan blades, one blade at short enough to allow belt installation without us-
a time. Install the belts on the pulleys without ing force.
prying or rolling them into place. 4. Install the belt on the pulleys without prying or
5. While keeping the belts seated in the pulley rolling it into place.
grooves, turn the fan hub adjusting bolt (Ref. B)

Drive Belts 01.07
NTC
FAN DRIVE B
A
C
D
WATER
PUMP
Front of
NTC Engine
06/19/97 f150003
Fig. 2
5. Back off the jam nut (Ref. C) to the end of the 2. Install a belt tension gauge at the center of the
adjusting rod. free-span of one of the belts.
6. While keeping the belt seated in the pulley 3. Turn the adjusting nut (Ref. B) to adjust the ten-
grooves, turn the adjusting nut (Ref. E) against sion to a reading of 130 to 150 lbs (59 to 68 kg)
the adjusting link (Ref. D) to increase belt ten- for new belts, or 80 to 120 lbs (36 to 55 kg) for
sion. Use your thumb to apply about 25 lbs (11 used belts. A used belt is any belt that has been
kg) of force at the center of the belt free-span to in operation more than ten minutes.
check the tension while turning the nut. When
belt deflection equals one belt thickness per foot IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belts; too
(305 mm) of pulley-center distance, proceed to much tension shortens belt life and bearing life.
"Adjustment: Refrigerant Compressor Belt." 4. Tighten the adjusting link jam nut (Ref. D) 155
lbf·ft (210 N·m).
Adjustment 5. Tighten the alternator mounting fasteners (Refs.
E and F) and the adjusting-rod bolt (Ref. A) 70
ALTERNATOR BELTS ( See Fig. 3 ) lbf·ft (95 N·m).
1. If not already done, back off the adjusting link 6. Check the belt tension, and adjust it if needed.
jam nut (Ref. D). Loosen the mounting fasteners
(Refs. E and F) just enough to allow movement 7. If new alternator belts were installed, operate the
of the alternator, and loosen the fastener (Ref. A) engine for about 20 minutes, then check the belt
that attaches the adjusting rod to the engine. tension. All new belts will lose tension after 20
minutes of operation.

01.07 Drive Belts
NTC
If the alternator belt tension is not between 80

and 120 lbs (36 to 55 kg), adjust the tension to
120 lbs (55 kg).
WATER PUMP BELT ( See Fig. 2 )

1. If not already done, loosen the locknut that se-
cures the idler pulley (Ref. D) to the water pump.
ALTERNATOR
2. Install a belt tension gauge at the center of the
belt’s longest free-span.
3. Turn the idler pulley adjusting bolt (Ref. C) to
increase or decrease the belt tension, but do not
adjust the tension to the full value with the ad-
justing bolt; belt tension can increase when the
Front of NTC Engine idler pulley shaft locknut is tightened. Final ten-
sion must be 140 to 160 lbs (64 to 73 kg) for a
new belt, or 90 to 120 lbs (41 to 55 kg) for a
used belt. A used belt is any belt that has been
in operation more than ten minutes.
A IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt; too
much tension shortens belt life and bearing life.
4. Tighten the idler pulley shaft locknut 50 lbf·ft (70
Top View
N·m).
5. Loosen the idler pulley adjusting bolt one-half
turn to prevent breakage.
6. Check the belt tension, and adjust it if needed.
B
C 7. Install and adjust both fan belts and the refriger-
D ant compressor belt (if so equipped).
8. If any new belts were installed, operate the en-
gine for about 20 minutes, then check the belt
tension. All new belts will lose tension after 20
E minutes of operation.
If the water pump belt tension is not between 90
120 lbs (55 kg).
FAN BELTS ( See Fig. 2 )

1. If not already done, loosen the nuts on the bolts
(Ref. A) that secure the fan hub to the fan hub
bracket.
F 2. Install a belt tension gauge at the center of the
free-span of one of the belts.
3. Turn the fan hub adjusting bolt (Ref. B) to in-
Right Side View crease or decrease belt tension, but do not ad-
just the tension to the full value with the adjust-
11/09/92 f150004 ing bolt; belt tension can increase when the fan
Fig. 3

Drive Belts 01.07
NTC
hub bracket nuts are tightened. Final tension 6. Check the belt tension, and adjust it if needed.
must be 130 to 150 lbs (59 to 68 kg) for new
7. If a new refrigerant compressor belt was in-
belts, or 80 to 120 lbs (36 to 55 kg) for used
stalled, operate the engine for about 20 minutes,
belts. A used belt is any belt that has been in
then check the belt tension. All new belts will
operation more than ten minutes.
lose tension after 20 minutes of operation.
IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belts; too If the refrigerant compressor belt tension is not
much tension shortens belt life and bearing life. between 80 and 100 lbs (36 to 45 kg), adjust the
4. Tighten the fan hub bracket nuts 80 lbf·ft (110 tension to 100 lbs (45 kg).
N·m).
5. Loosen the fan hub adjusting bolt one-half turn to
prevent breakage.
7. Install and adjust the refrigerant compressor belt,
if so equipped.
If the fan belt tension is not between 80 and 120
lbs (36 to 55 kg), adjust the tension to 120 lbs
(55 kg).
BELT ( See Fig. 1 )
1. If not already done, back off the adjusting link
jam nut (Ref. C) to the end of the adjusting rod,
and loosen the mounting nuts (Refs. A and F)
and adjusting link bolt (Ref. B) just enough to
allow movement of the compressor.
belt free-span.
3. Turn the adjusting nut (Ref. E) to adjust the ten-
sion to a reading of 130 lbs (59 kg) for a new
belt, or 80 to 100 lbs (36 to 45 kg) for a used
belt. A used belt is any belt that has been in op-
eration more than ten minutes.
IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt; too
4. Tighten the adjusting link jam nut (Ref. C) 155
lbf·ft (210 N·m).
5. Tighten the compressor mounting nuts (Ref. A)
and the adjusting link bolt (Ref. B) 33 lbf·ft (45
N·m). Tighten the adjusting rod nut (Ref. F) 70
lbf·ft (95 N·m).

Drive Belts 01.07
Removal, Installation, and Adjustment, Cummins L10
Removal FAN BELT (See Fig. 3)

1. Loosen the locknut that secures the idler pulley
REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR to the fan bracket.
BELT (See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2)
3
2
4 5
6
03/20/95 f150006
1. Refrigerant Compressor 3. Compressor Mounting Nuts 5. Adjusting Link
2. Adjusting Link Bolt 4. Adjusting Nut 6. Jam Nut
Fig. 1, Refrigerant Compressor Installation, Rotary Type

1. Back off the adjusting nut. Loosen the mounting 2. Turn the idler pulley adjustment capscrew until
nuts and the adjusting link bolt just enough to there is minimal distance between the pulley
allow movement of the compressor. centers.
2. Push the loosened compressor toward the ac- 3. Remove the fan belt by slipping it off of the pul-
cessory drive pulley until the distance between leys and working it over one fan blade at a time.
them is short enough to allow belt removal with- Don’t roll or pry the belt off of the pulleys; the
out using force. distance between the pulley centers must be
short enough to allow belt removal without using
3. Remove the belt, without prying or rolling it off of force.
the pulleys.
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 11, March 1996 110/1

01.07 Drive Belts
1
1 1 1
2
3
4
5
06/15/95 f010848
1. Compressor Mounting Nut 3. Adjusting Nut 5. Jam Nut
2. Adjusting Link Bolt 4. Adjusting Link
Fig. 2, Refrigerant Compressor Installation, Piston Type
ALTERNATOR BELT (See Fig. 3) Installation

1. Loosen the three mounting fasteners just enough
to allow movement of the alternator. REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR
2. Loosen the adjusting screw locknut. BELT (See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2)
3. Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, back- 1. Inspect the pulleys and used refrigerant com-
ing off the alternator toward the drive pulley far pressor belt (even if a new belt is being installed)
enough to allow belt removal without using force. as instructed under Subject 180.
4. Remove the belt, without prying or rolling it off of 2. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is
the pulleys. short enough to allow belt installation without us-
ing force.
110/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 11, March 1996

Drive Belts 01.07
2
1 5
5
4
3
6 7
03/20/95 f150008c
1. Alternator 5. Alternator Mounting Fastener 7. Idler Pulley
2. Fan Drive 6. Idler Pulley Adjustment
3. Adjusting Screw Capscrew
4. Adjusting Screw Locknut
Fig. 3, Alternator and Fan Drive

3. Install the belt on the pulleys without prying or 3. Work the belt over the fan blades, one blade at a
rolling it into place. time. Install the belt on the pulleys without prying
or rolling it into place. Be sure the ribs on the
4. Back off the jam nut to the end of the adjusting belt are seated in the grooves on each pulley.
rod.
4. While keeping the belt seated in the pulley
5. While keeping the belt seated in the pulley grooves, turn the idler pulley adjustment cap-
grooves, turn the adjusting nut against the ad- screw to increase the belt tension. Use your
justing link to increase belt tension. Use your thumb to apply about 25 lbs (11 kg) of force at
thumb to apply about 25 lbs (11 kg) of force at the center of the belt free-span to check the ten-
the center of the belt free-span to check the tension while turning the capscrew. When belt de-
sion while turning the nut. When belt deflection flection equals one belt thickness per foot (305
equals one belt thickness per foot (305 mm) of mm) of pulley-center distance, proceed to "Ad-
pulley-center distance, proceed to "Adjustment: justment: Fan Belt."
Refrigerant Compressor Belt."
FAN BELT (See Fig. 3) ALTERNATOR BELT (See Fig. 3)

1. Inspect the pulleys and used alternator belt
1. Inspect the pulleys and used fan belt (even if a (even if a new belt is being installed) as in-
new belt is being installed) as instructed under structed under Subject 180.
Subject 180.
2. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is short enough to allow belt installation without us-
short enough to allow belt installation without using force.
ing force.

01.07 Drive Belts
3. Install the belt on the pulleys without prying or FAN BELT (See Fig. 3)
rolling it into place. Be sure the ribs on the belt
are seated in the grooves on each pulley. 1. If not already done, loosen the locknut that se-
cures the idler pulley to the fan bracket.
grooves, turn the adjusting screw clockwise to 2. Install a belt tension gauge at the center of the
increase the belt tension. Use your thumb to ap- belt’s longest free-span.
ply about 25 lbs (11 kg) of force at the center of 3. Turn the idler pulley adjustment capscrew to in-
the belt free-span to check the tension while crease or decrease belt tension, but do not ad-
turning the adjusting screw. When belt deflection just the tension to the full value with the idler pul-
equals one belt thickness per foot (305 mm) of ley adjustment capscrew; belt tension can
pulley-center distance, proceed to "Adjustment: increase when the idler pulley locknut is tight-
Alternator Belt." ened. Final tension must be 190 to 210 lbs (86
to 95 kg) for a new belt, or 155 to 165 lbs (70 to
Adjustment 75 kg) for a used belt. A used belt is any belt
that has been in operation more than ten min-
REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR utes.
BELT (See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2) IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt; too
1. If not already done, back off the adjusting link
jam nut to the end of the adjusting rod, and 4. Tighten the idler pulley locknut 120 to 140 lbf·ft
loosen the mounting nuts and adjusting link bolt (165 to 190 N·m).
just enough to allow movement of the compres- 5. Loosen the idler pulley adjustment capscrew
sor. one-half turn, to prevent breakage.
2. Install a belt tension gauge at the center of the 6. Check the belt tension, and adjust it if needed.
belt free-span.
7. If a new fan belt was installed, operate the en-
3. Turn the adjusting nut to adjust the tension to a gine for about 20 minutes, then check the belt
reading of 130 lbs (59 kg) for a new belt, or 80 tension. All new belts will lose tension after 20
to 100 lbs (36 to 45 kg) for a used belt. A used minutes of operation.
belt is any belt that has been in operation more
than ten minutes. If the fan belt tension is not between 155 and
165 lbs (70 to 75 kg), adjust the tension to 165
IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt; too lbs (75 kg).
4. Tighten the adjusting link jam nut 155 lbf·ft (210 ALTERNATOR BELT (See Fig. 3)
N·m). 1. If not already done, loosen the adjusting screw
5. Tighten the compressor mounting nuts 30 lbf·ft locknut, and loosen the three mounting fasteners
(40 N·m), and the adjusting link bolt 40 lbf·ft (55 just enough to allow movement of the alternator.
N·m). 2. Install a belt tension gauge at the center of the
6. Check the belt tension, and adjust it if needed. belt free-span.
7. If a new refrigerant compressor belt was in- 3. Turn the adjusting screw to adjust the tension to
stalled, operate the engine for about 20 minutes, a reading of 140 to 160 lbs (64 to 73 kg) for a
then check the belt tension. All new belts will new belt, or 90 to 120 lbs (41 to 55 kg) for a
lose tension after 20 minutes of operation. used belt. A used belt is any belt that has been
If the refrigerant compressor belt tension is not
between 80 and 100 lbs (36 to 45 kg), adjust the IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt; too
tension to 100 lbs (45 kg). much tension shortens belt life and bearing life.

Drive Belts 01.07
4. Tighten the adjusting screw locknut 95 lbf·ft (130

N·m).
5. Tighten the alternator mounting fastener 60 lbf·ft
(80 N·m), the adjusting block nut 35 lbf·ft (50
N·m), and the adjusting arm bolt 55 lbf·ft (75
N·m).
7. If a new alternator belt was installed, operate the
engine for about 20 minutes, then check the belt
120 lbs (55 kg).

Drive Belts 01.07
Removal, Installation, and Adjustment, Caterpillar
3306
Removal 2. Push the loosened alternator toward the fan

drive pulley until the distance between them is
ALTERNATOR AND REFRIGERANT force.
COMPRESSOR BELTS ( See Fig. 1) 3. Remove both belts by slipping them off of the
1. Back off the adjusting nut (Ref. D), then loosen pulleys and working them over one fan blade at
the alternator mounting fasteners (Refs. A and E) a time.
just enough to allow movement of the alternator.
FAN BELTS ( See Fig. 2)
1. Remove both alternator belts.
2. Loosen the bolts (Ref. B) that secure the fan hub
to the fan hub bracket.
3. Turn the fan hub adjusting bolt (Ref. A) until
there is minimal distance between the pulley
centers.
4. Remove both fan belts by slipping them off of the
pulleys and working them over one fan blade at
a time. Don’t roll or pry the belts off; the distance
between the pulley centers must be short
enough to allow belt removal without using force.
FRONT OF
f150009 CATERPILLAR 3306
04/02/93 f150005
Fig. 1, Alternator and Refrigerant Compressor
Fig. 2, Fan Drive

01.07 Drive Belts
3306
Installation Adjustment
FAN BELTS ( See Fig. 2) FAN BELTS ( See Fig. 2)
1. Inspect the pulleys and used fan belts (even if 1. If not already done, loosen the bolts (Ref. B) that
new belts are being installed) as instructed in secure the fan hub to the fan hub bracket.
Subject 180.
2. Install a belt tension gauge on the forwardmost
2. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is belt, at the center of the belt free-span.
short enough to allow belt installation without us-
3. Turn the fan hub adjusting bolt (Ref. A) to in-
ing force.
crease or decrease the belt tension, but do not
3. Work the belts over the fan blades, one blade at adjust the tension to the full value with the fan
a time. Install the belts on the pulleys without hub adjusting bolt; tension can increase when
prying or rolling them into place. the fan hub bracket bolts are tightened. Final
tension must be 115 to 125 lbs (52 to 57 kg) for
4. While keeping the belts seated in the pulley new belts, or 80 to 100 lbs (36 to 45 kg) for used
grooves, turn the fan hub adjusting bolt (Ref. A)
belts. A used belt is any belt that has been in
to increase the belt tension. Use your thumb to operation more than ten minutes.
apply about 25 lbs (11 kg) of force at the center
of the belt free-span to check the tension while IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belts; too
turning the bolt. When belt deflection equals one much tension shortens belt life and bearing life.
belt thickness per foot (305 mm) of pulley-center
distance, proceed to "Adjustment: Fan Belts." 4. Tighten the fan hub bracket bolts 70 lbf·ft (95
N·m).
ALTERNATOR AND REFRIGERANT 5. Loosen the fan hub adjusting bolt one-half turn.
COMPRESSOR BELTS ( See Fig. 1) 6. Check the belt tension, and adjust it if needed.
1. If the fan belts were removed, install and adjust 7. Install and adjust the alternator belts.
them first.
2. Inspect the pulleys and used alternator belts gine for about 20 minutes, then check the belt
(even if new belts are being installed) as in- tension. All new belts will lose tension after 20
structed in Subject 180. minutes of operation.
3. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is If the fan belt tension is not between 80 and 100
short enough to allow belt installation without us- lbs (36 to 45 kg), adjust the tension to 100 lbs
ing force. (45 kg).
4. Install the belts on the pulleys without prying or
rolling them into place. ALTERNATOR AND REFRIGERANT
5. Back off the jam nut (Ref. B) to the end of the COMPRESSOR BELTS ( See Fig. 1)
adjusting rod. 1. If not already done, back off the adjusting link
6. While keeping the belts seated in the pulley jam nut (Ref. B) to the end of the adjusting rod,
grooves, turn the adjusting nut (Ref. D) against and loosen the alternator mounting fasteners
the adjusting link (Ref. C) to increase the belt (Refs. A and E) just enough to allow movement
tension. Use your thumb to apply about 25 lbs of the alternator.
(11 kg) of force at the center of the belt free- 2. Install a belt tension gauge on the forwardmost
span to check the tension while turning the nut. belt at the center of the belt’s longest free-span.
When belt deflection equals one belt thickness
per foot (305 mm) of pulley-center distance, pro- 3. Turn the adjusting nut (Ref. D) to adjust the ten-
ceed to "Adjustment: Alternator and Refrigerant sion to a reading of 115 to 125 lbs (52 to 57 kg)
Compressor Belts." for new belts, or 80 to 100 lbs (36 to 45 kg) for

Drive Belts 01.07
3306
used belts. A used belt is any belt that has been

IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belts; too
4. Tighten the adjusting rod jam nut (Ref. B) 95
lbf·ft (130 N·m).
5. Tighten the alternator mounting fasteners (Refs.
A and E) 70 lbf·ft (95 N·m).
7. If new alternator belts were installed, operate the
100 lbs (45 kg).

Drive Belts 01.07
3176
Removal the fan clutch cylinder before the fan/alternator

belt can be removed.
FAN AND ALTERNATOR BELT 2. Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt tensioner
(See Fig. 1) and rotate the tensioner down and off the belt.
1. Remove the belt from the refrigerant compressor 3. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove the belt
pulley and let the belt rest on the fan hub. Refer from the alternator pulley.
to the refrigerant compressor belt removal proce- 4. Slowly release the belt tensioner, and remove
dure in this subject.
3
2
4
1
3
12/07/93 f010579
A. Rotate the belt tensioner down and off the belt.
1. Alternator 4. Refrigerant Compressor
2. Fan Pulley 5. Vibration Damper
3. Refrigerant Compressor Mounting Bolts 6. Belt Tensioner
Fig. 1
NOTE: On Kysor and Horton HT550 fan the breaker bar.
clutches, the air line must be disconnected from

01.07 Drive Belts
3176
5. Lower the belt, and take it off the vibration and drive as an assembly. For installation in-
damper. Raise the belt, and take it off over the structions, refer to the applicable section in this
fan. Remove the belt from the engine compart- manual.
ment.
If equipped with a Kysor or Horton HT 550 fan
drive, install the fan hub with the compressor belt
REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR on the fan pulley. For fan hub installation instruc-
BELT (See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2) tions, refer to the applicable section in this
manual.
1. If equipped with a swashplate refrigerant com-
pressor ( Fig. 1), loosen the compressor mount- 3. While keeping the belt seated in the pulley
ing bolts and move the compressor towards the grooves, move the compressor away from the
fan pulley until the belt can be removed from the fan pulley to increase belt tension. Use your
compressor. thumb to apply about 25 lb (11 kg) of force at the
center of the longest belt free-span to check the
If equipped with a piston-type refrigerant com-
tension. When belt deflection is about 1/2 to 3/4
pressor ( Fig. 2), loosen the adjusting rod jam
inch (13 to 19 mm), proceed to "Adjustment: Re-
nut, back off the adjusting nut, and loosen the
frigerant Compressor."
compressor mounting bolts. Move the compres-
sor towards the fan pulley until the belt can be
removed from the compressor. FAN AND ALTERNATOR BELT
(See Fig. 1)
2. If equipped with a Horton S fan drive, remove
the fan blade and set it forward. 1. Inspect the pulleys and used belts (even if in-
stalling new belts) as instructed in Subject 180.
If equipped with an Eaton viscous fan drive, re-
move the drive from the fan hub and set the fan 2. If the fan or fan hub was removed to remove the
and drive (as an assembly) forward. compressor belt, install the fan or fan hub with
the compressor belt in the fan pulley groove. Do
If equipped with a Kysor or Horton HT 550 fan not attach the compressor belt to the compressor
drive, remove the fan hub. For instructions, refer at this time.
to the applicable section in this manual.
3. Loop the fan/alternator belt around the fan and
align it in the rear channel of the fan pulley.
CAUTION
4. Loop the belt down and around the vibration
CAUTION: Place a piece of cardboard between damper pulley.
the fan and radiator so that the radiator is not
damaged during fan or fan clutch removal. 5. Install the refrigerant compressor belt on the
compressor. Refer to the refrigerant compressor
3. Remove the compressor belt from the fan pulley. belt installation instructions in this subject.
6. Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt ten-
Installation sioner, and rotate the tensioner down while in-
stalling the belt on the alternator pulley.
7. Slowly release the tensioner assembly onto the
BELT (See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2) belt. The tensioner automatically tightens the belt
1. Inspect the pulleys and used belts (even if in- to the correct tension.
stalling new belts) as instructed in Subject 180. 8. Remove the breaker bar from the tensioner.
2. If equipped with a Horton S fan drive, loop the 9. On Kysor and Horton HT 550 fan clutches, at-
belt around the fan pulley, then install the fan. tach the air line to the fan clutch cylinder and
For fan installation instructions, refer to the appli- tighten the fitting 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm).
cable section in this manual.
If equipped with an Eaton viscous fan drive, loop
the belt around the fan pulley, then install the fan

Drive Belts 01.07
3176
6
5
2
1 3
4
12/07/93 f010580
1. Alternator 5. Refrigerant Compressor Mounting Bolts
2. Fan Pulley 6. Refrigerant Compressor
3. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut 7. Vibration Damper
4. Adjusting Nut
Fig. 2
Adjustment sor away from the fan hub and adjust belt ten-
sion to 100 lb (45 kg). Tighten the compressor
mounting bolts 70 lbf·ft (95 N·m). Check the belt
REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR tension and adjust if needed.
(See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2)
1. Install a belt tension gauge at the center of the much tension shortens belt and bearing life.
belt’s longest free-span.
3. If equipped with a piston-type refrigerant com-
2. If equipped with a swashplate refrigerant compressor ( Fig. 2), turn the adjusting nut to adjust
pressor ( Fig. 1), insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar the tension to a reading of 100 lb (45 kg).
into the compressor bracket. Turn the compres-

01.07 Drive Belts
3176
Tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 155 lbf·ft (210

N·m).
Tighten the compressor mounting bolts 70 lbf·ft
(95 N·m).
Check the belt tension and adjust it if needed.
much tension shortens belt and bearing life.
If the compressor belt tension is not between 80
and 100 lb (36 to 45 kg), adjust the tension to
100 lb (45 kg).
FAN AND ALTERNATOR BELTS

1. The Caterpillar belt tensioner automatically ad-
justs the fan and alternator belt to the correct
tension.
2. If the belt slips, repair or replace the tensioner.
For instructions, refer to the Caterpillar 3176
Truck Engine Service Manual.

Drive Belts 01.07
Drive Belts Replacement, Detroit Diesel Series 60
NOTE: On a joined belt, the Krikit gauge will

have a low accuracy of approximately +/– 30 1
percent. The Kent-Moore gauge is inherently a
more accurate device. The belt tension gauge
must grip the full width of the belt to get an ac-
curate reading. If the gauge grips only one of
the two V’s in a Powerband belt, it will not give
an accurate reading. The actual tension in the
belt will likely be greater than the tension indi-
cated by the gauge. In this case, the Kent-
Moore gauge will be no more accurate than the
Krikit gauge.
Belt Replacement Without an

Automatic Belt Tensioner
Fan Belt
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock
the tires.
2. Remove the belt. 2
NOTE: On Kysor and Horton HT 550 fan

clutches, the air line must be disconnected 05/20/93 f010577
from the fan clutch cylinder before the belt 1. Adjusting Rod
can be removed. 2. Fan Hub Capscrews
2.1 Loosen the four capscrews that attach the Fig. 1, Fan Hub
fan hub to the engine. See Fig. 1.
clutch cylinder and tighten the fitting 84
2.2 Loosen the adjusting rod to relieve ten- lbf·in (940 N·cm).
sion from the belt.
3.4 While keeping the belt seated in the pul-
2.3 Remove the belt by slipping it off the pulley grooves, turn the adjusting rod to in-
leys and working it over one fan blade at crease belt tension. Use your thumb to
a time. Do not roll or pry the belt off the apply about 25 lbf (111 N) of force at the
pulleys. The distance between the pulley center of the longest belt free-span to
centers must be short enough to allow check the tension while turning the ad-
belt removal without using force. justing rod. Stop turning the adjusting rod
3. Install the belt. when belt deflection is about 1/2- to 3/4-
inch (13- to 19-mm).
3.1 Inspect the pulleys and the belt (even if
installing a new belt) as instructed in 4. Adjust the belt.
Subject 180. 4.1 Install a belt tension gauge at the center
3.2 Work the belt over the fan blades, one of the belt’s longest free-span.
blade at a time. Install the belt on the pul- IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt.
leys without prying or rolling it into place. Too much tension shortens belt and bearing
3.3 On Kysor and Horton HT 550 fan life.
clutches, attach the air line to the fan

01.07 Drive Belts
4.2 Turn the adjusting rod to increase or de-

crease belt tension. Final tension must be 4 5
60 to 80 lbf (267 to 356 N). 6
3
4.3 Tighten the fan hub mounting capscrews 2
7
75 to 83 lbf·ft (100 to 112 N·m).
4.4 Check the belt tension and adjust it if 1 8
needed. 3
4.5 Remove the chocks from the tires.
4.6 Operate the engine for about 30 minutes
or 15 miles (24 km). Recheck the belt
tension. Re-tension to a minimum of 75
lbf (334 N). Check again after 8 hours or
250 miles (400 km). Adjust belt tension as
needed.
Alternator and Refrigerant

Compressor Belt
NOTE: On earlier models, the alternator and
refrigerant compressor are driven by the same
belt connected to the accessory drive pulley. On 05/20/93 f010578
later models, the alternator and refrigerant com- 1. Refrigerant Compressor
pressor each have their own drive belt. 2. Alternator
3. Alternator Mounting Bolt
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the 4. Jam Nut
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock 5. Adjusting Link
the tires. 6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod
2. Remove the belt. See Fig. 2. 8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Bolt
2.1 Loosen the adjusting rod bolt that at-
Fig. 2, Alternator and Refrigerant Compressor Belt
taches the adjusting rod to the engine, Without an Automatic Belt Tensioner
and loosen the alternator mounting bolts
that attach the alternator to the adjusting Use your thumb to apply about 25 lbf
link and the mounting bracket. (111 N) of force at the center of the long-
est belt free-span to check the tension
2.2 Back off the adjusting nut. Push the loos-
ened alternator toward the engine to al- while turning the nut. Stop turning the nut
low belt removal without using force. when belt deflection is about 1/2- to 3/4-
inch (13- to 19-mm).
2.3 Remove the belt without prying or rolling
it off the pulleys. 4. Adjust the belt.
3. Install the belt. 4.1 Install a belt tension gauge at the center
of the belt’s longest free-span.
installing a new belt) as instructed in IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt.
Subject 180. Too much tension shortens belt and bearing
life.
3.2 Loop the belt around the pulleys.
4.2 Turn the adjusting nut to adjust the belt
3.3 While keeping the belt seated in the pul- tension to 100 lbf (445 N) per belt, 200 lbf
ley grooves, turn the adjusting nut against (890 N) if using a joined belt.
the adjusting link to increase belt tension.

Drive Belts 01.07
4.3 Tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 155 1

lbf·ft (210 N·m). 2
3
4.4 Tighten the alternator mounting fasteners 4
70 lbf·ft (95 N·m).
5
4.5 Check the belt tension and adjust it if
needed. 5
4.7 Operate the engine for about 30 minutes 6
tension. Re-tension to a minimum of 75
lbf (334 N) per belt, 150 lbf (668 N) if us-
ing a joined belt. Check again after 8
7
hours or 250 miles (400 km). Adjust belt
tension as needed.
Alternator Belt
the tires.
2. Remove the belt. See Fig. 3.
05/07/93 f010663
2.1 Loosen the fasteners that hold the idler 1. Jam Nut
pulley to the engine. 2. Adjusting Link
2.2 Loosen the alternator mounting bolts that 3. Adjusting Nut
4. Adjusting Rod
hold the alternator to the adjusting link
5. Alternator Mounting Bolt
and to the mounting bracket. 6. Idler Pulley
2.3 Loosen the adjusting nut, and allow the 7. Idler Pulley Bracket Mounting Bolts
alternator to rotate toward the engine until Fig. 3, Alternator Belt Without an Automatic Belt
the belt can be removed. Tensioner
2.4 Remove the belt without prying or rolling
4. Adjust the belt.
it off the pulleys.
4.1 Install a belt tension gauge at the center
3. Install the belt.
of the belt’s longest free-span.
IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt.
installing a new belt) as instructed in
Subject 180. Too much tension shortens belt and bearing
life.
3.2 Loop the belt around the pulleys.
4.2 Turn the adjusting nut to adjust the ten-
3.3 While keeping the belt seated in the pul- sion to a reading of 100 lbf (445 N).
ley grooves, turn the adjusting nut against
the adjusting link to increase belt tension. 4.3 Tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 155
Use your thumb to apply about 25 lbf lbf·ft (210 N·m).
(111 N) of force at the center of the long- 4.4 Tighten the alternator mounting fasteners
est belt free-span to check the tension 70 lbf·ft (95 N·m).
while turning the nut. Stop turning the nut
when belt deflection is about 1/2- to 3/4- 4.5 Check the belt tension and adjust it if
inch (13- to 19-mm). needed.

01.07 Drive Belts
4.6 Allow the idler pulley to center itself.

Tighten the pulley bracket mounting bolts
61 lbf·ft (45 N·m).
4.8 Operate the engine for about 30 minutes
tension. Check again after 8 hours or 250
miles (400 km). Adjust belt tension as
needed.
Refrigerant Compressor Belt

parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock 1
the tires.
2 3
2.1 If necessary, remove the alternator belt.
2.2 Loosen the capscrew that holds the idler
pulley in position, and allow the pulley to
rotate toward the engine.
2.3 Remove the belt without prying or rolling 05/20/93 f010664
it off the pulleys. NOTE: Do not remove the idler pulley from its bracket.
3. Install the belt. The two parts are shown separated for clarity.
1. Pulley Mounting Capscrew
3.1 Inspect the pulleys and the belt (even if 2. Pulley Bracket
installing a new belt) as instructed in 3. Idler Pulley
Subject 180.
Fig. 4, Refrigerant Compressor Belt Without an
3.2 Loop the belt around the pulleys. Automatic Belt Tensioner
3.3 If necessary, install the alternator belt. 4.6 Operate the engine for about 30 minutes
4. Adjust the belt. or 15 miles (24 km). Recheck the belt
tension. Check again after 8 hours or 250
4.1 Install a belt tension gauge at the center miles (400 km). Adjust belt tension as
of the belt’s longest free-span. needed.
4.2 Place a wrench securely around the head
of the bolt that holds the idler pulley to Belt Replacement With an
the bracket. Use the wrench to move the
pulley out, away from the engine, and Automatic Belt Tensioner
tension the belt 100 lbf (445 N).
4.3 While holding the belt at the proper ten-
Alternator and Refrigerant
sion, have an assistant tighten the pulley Compressor Belt
mounting capscrew 68 lbf·ft (50 N·m). 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
4.4 Check the belt tension and adjust it if parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock
needed. the tires.
4.5 Remove the chocks from the tires. 2. Remove the belt. See Fig. 5.

Drive Belts 01.07
2.1 Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt 3. Install the belt.
tensioner and rotate the tensioner away
from the accessory drive belt.
2.2 Holding the belt tensioner down, remove Subject 180.
the belt from the alternator pulley.
3.2 Install the belt onto the engine pulley and
2.3 Remove the belt from the refrigerant com- the refrigerant compressor pulley.
pressor pulley and the engine pulley.
3.3 Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar into the belt
2.4 Slowly release the belt tensioner and re- tensioner and rotate it out while installing
move the breaker bar. the belt onto the alternator pulley.
3.4 Slowly release the belt tensioner and re-
move the breaker bar. The belt tensioner
will automatically apply the correct ten-
sion on the belt.
3 4. Remove the chocks from the tires.
4 Fan Belt
the tires.
2
2.1 Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt
tensioner and rotate the tensioner away
from the fan drive belt.
1 2.2 Holding the belt tensioner down, remove
the belt from the fan pulley and the en-
gine pulley.
2.3 Slowly release the belt tensioner and re-
move the breaker bar.
3. Install the belt.
Subject 180.
3.2 Install the belt onto the fan pulley.
3.3 Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar into the belt
tensioner and rotate it out while installing
the belt onto the engine pulley.
03/29/2001 f011973 3.4 Slowly release the belt tensioner and re-
1. Engine Pulley move the breaker bar. The belt tensioner
2. Alternator Pulley will automatically apply the correct ten-
3. Refrigerant Compressor Pulley sion on the belt.
4. Automatic Belt Tensioner
4. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Fig. 5, Alternator and Refrigerant Compressor Belt
With an Automatic Belt Tensioner

01.07 Drive Belts
03/29/2001 f011974
1. Vibration Damper
2. Automatic Belt Tensioner
3. Fan Pulley
Fig. 6, Fan Belt With an Automatic Belt Tensioner

Drive Belts 01.07
3406
Removal
ALTERNATOR AND REFRIGERANT 5
2
COMPRESSOR BELTS (See Fig. 1 3
4
or Fig. 2)
1. Back off the adjusting nut, then loosen the alter-
nator mounting fasteners enough to allow move- 1
ment of the alternator.
2 5
3
4
1
01/26/96 f010661
1. Alternator 4. Adjusting Nut
2. Adjusting Rod 5. Refrigerant
3. Jam Nut Compressor
Fig. 2, Alternator and Piston-Type Refrigerant

Compressor
02/14/96 f010660
4. Remove both fan belts by slipping them off of the
1. Alternator 4. Adjusting Nut
2. Adjusting Rod 5. Refrigerant pulleys and working them over one fan blade at
3. Jam Nut Compressor a time. Don’t roll or pry the belts off; the distance
between the pulley centers must be short
Fig. 1, Alternator and Swash-Plate Refrigerant enough to allow belt removal without using force.
Compressor
2. Push the loosened alternator toward the fan

drive pulley until the distance between them is 1
force.
3. Remove both belts by slipping them off of the
pulleys and working them over one fan blade at
a time.
FAN BELTS (See Fig. 3)

1. Remove both alternator belts. For instructions,
refer to the applicable procedure in this subject.
2. Loosen the fan hub mounting bolts. 2
05/20/93 f010662
3. Turn the fan hub adjusting bolt until there is mini- 1. Fan Hub Adjusting 2. Fan Hub Mounting
mal distance between the pulley centers. Bolt Bolts
Fig. 3, Fan Drive

01.07 Drive Belts
3406
Installation Adjustment
FAN BELTS (See Fig. 3) FAN BELTS (See Fig. 3)
1. Inspect the pulleys and used fan belts (even if 1. If not already done, loosen the fan hub mounting
new belts are being installed) as instructed in bolts.
Subject 180.
2. Install a belt tension gauge on the forwardmost
2. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is belt, at the center of the belt free-span.
3. Turn the fan hub adjusting bolt to increase or
ing force.
decrease the belt tension, but do not adjust the
3. Work the belts over the fan blades, one blade at tension to the full value with the fan hub adjust-
a time. Install the belts on the pulleys without ing bolt; tension can increase when the fan hub
prying or rolling them into place. bracket bolts are tightened. Final tension must
be 115 to 125 lb (52 to 57 kg) for new belts, or
4. While keeping the belts seated in the pulley
80 to 100 lbs (36 to 45 kg) for used belts. A used
grooves, turn the fan hub adjusting bolt to in-
belt is any belt that has been in operation more
crease the belt tension. Use your thumb to apply
than ten minutes.
about 25 lb (11 kg) of force at the center of the
belt free-span to check the tension while turning IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belts; too
the bolt. When belt deflection equals one belt much tension shortens belt life and bearing life.
thickness per foot (305 mm) of pulley-center dis-
tance, proceed to "Adjustment: Fan Belts." 4. Tighten the fan hub mounting bolts 70 lbf·ft (95
N·m).
ALTERNATOR AND REFRIGERANT 5. Loosen the fan hub adjusting bolt one-half turn.
COMPRESSOR BELTS (See Fig. 1 6. Check the belt tension, and adjust it if needed.
or Fig. 2)
7. Install and adjust the alternator belts.
1. If the fan belts were removed, install and adjust
them first. For instructions, refer to the applicable 8. If any new belts were installed, operate the en-
procedure in this subject. gine for about 20 minutes, then check the belt
2. Inspect the pulleys and used alternator belts minutes of operation.
(even if new belts are being installed) as in-
structed in Subject 180. If the fan belt tension is not between 80 and 100
lb (36 to 45 kg), adjust the tension to 100 lb (45
3. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is kg).
ing force. ALTERNATOR AND REFRIGERANT
4. Install the belts on the pulleys without prying or COMPRESSOR BELTS (See Fig. 1
rolling them into place. or Fig. 2)
5. Back off the jam nut. 1. If not already done, back off the adjusting link
6. While keeping the belts seated in the pulley jam nut, and loosen the alternator mounting fas-
grooves, turn the adjusting nut against the ad- teners just enough to allow movement of the al-
justing link to increase the belt tension. Use your ternator.
thumb to apply about 25 lb (11 kg) of force at the 2. Install a belt tension gauge on the forwardmost
center of the belt free-span to check the tension belt, at the center of the belt’s longest free-span.
while turning the nut. When belt deflection equals
one belt thickness per foot (305 mm) of pulley- 3. Turn the adjusting nut to adjust the tension to a
center distance, proceed to "Adjustment: Alterna- reading of 115 to 125 lb (52 to 57 kg) for new
tor and Refrigerant Compressor Belts." belts, or 80 to 100 lb (36 to 45 kg) for used belts.

Drive Belts 01.07
3406
A used belt is any belt that has been in operation

more than ten minutes.
4. Tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 95 lbf·ft (130
N·m).
5. Tighten the alternator mounting fasteners 70 lbf·ft
(95 N·m).
7. If new alternator belts were installed, operate the
and 100 lb (36 to 45 kg), adjust the tension to
100 lb (45 kg).

Drive Belts 01.07
Removal, Installation, and Adjustment, Detroit Diesel
Series 50
Removal
FAN BELT (See Fig. 1) 1
2
01/22/96 f010651
1. Adjusting Rod Jam 4. Alternator Mounting
Nut Bolt
2. Adjusting Rod Nut 5. Adjusting Rod Guide
3. Adjusting Rod Mounting Bolt
Mounting Bolt
2 Fig. 2, Alternator Belt Adjustment

2. Loosen the adjusting rod guide mounting bolt.
05/20/93 f010577 3. Loosen the adjusting rod mounting bolt.
1. Adjusting Rod 2. Mounting Capscrews 4. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt.
Fig. 1, Fan Belt Adjustment 5. Turn the adjusting rod jam nut to rotate the alter-
nator up and toward the engine. Turn the nut un-
1. Loosen the four mounting capscrews that attach til the alternator is close enough to the engine to
the fan hub to the engine. allow belt removal.
2. Loosen the adjusting rod to relieve tension from 6. Remove the belts by slipping them off the pulleys
the belts. and working them over one fan blade at a time.
3. Remove the belts by slipping them off the pulleys Don’t roll or pry the belts off the pulleys; the dis-
and working them over one fan blade at a time. tance between the pulley centers must be short
On some vehicles, it may be necessary to re- enough to allow belt removal without using force.
move the fan. For instructions, refer to the en-
gine cooling section of this manual. Don’t roll or REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR
pry the belts off the pulleys; the distance be- BELT (See Fig. 3)
tween the pulley centers must be short enough
to allow belt removal without using force. 1. Loosen the compressor mounting capscrew and
the compressor adjustment capscrews that at-
ALTERNATOR BELT (See Fig. 2) tach the compressor bracket to the engine.
1. Back off the adjusting rod nut. 2. Rotate the compressor downward, toward the
engine to allow belt removal without using force.

01.07 Drive Belts
Series 50

grooves, turn the adjusting nut to rotate the alter-
nator away from the engine and to increase belt
tension.
BELT (See Fig. 3)
1. Inspect the pulleys and used belt (even if install-
ing a new belt) as instructed in Subject 180.
2. Loop the belt around the pulleys.
1 grooves, rotate the compressor up and away
2 from the engine.
Adjustment
FAN BELT (See Fig. 1)
11/27/95 f010650 1. Install a belt tension gauge at the center of the
belts’ longest free-span.
1. Compressor Mounting Capscrew
2. Compressor Adjustment Capscrew 2. Turn the adjusting rod to increase belt tension to
60 to 80 lb (27 to 36 kg).
Fig. 3, Refrigerant Compressor Belt Adjustment
3. Remove the belt without rolling or prying it off the
pulleys.
3. Tighten the fan hub mounting capscrews 75 to
Installation 83 lbf·ft (100 to 112 N·m).
4. Check the belt tension and adjust it if needed.
FAN BELT (See Fig. 1) 5. Operate the engine for about 30 minutes (or 15
1. Inspect the pulleys and used belts (even if in- miles), then check the belt tension. Check again
stalling new belts) as instructed in Subject 180. after 8 hours of operation (or 250 miles). Adjust
the belt tension as needed.
2. Work the belts over the fan blades, one blade at
a time. Install the belts on the pulleys without ALTERNATOR BELT (See Fig. 2)
rolling or prying them into place.
3. While keeping the belts seated in the pulley belt’s longest free-span.
grooves, turn the adjusting rod to increase belt
tension. 2. Turn the adjusting rod nut to rotate the alternator
out, away from the engine until the belt is ten-
ALTERNATOR BELT (See Fig. 2) sioned 60 to 80 lb (27 to 36 kg).
1. Inspect the pulleys and belt (even if installing a IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt; too
new belt) as instructed in Subject 180. much tension shortens belt and bearing life.
2. Work the belt over the fan blades, one blade at a 3. Tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 130 lbf·ft (176
time. Install the belt on the pulleys without prying N·m).
or rolling it into place.
4. Tighten the alternator mounting bolt and the ad-
justing rod mounting bolt 91 lbf·ft (123 N·m).

Drive Belts 01.07
Series 50
5. Tighten the adjusting rod guide mounting bolt 34

lbf·ft (46 N·m).
6. Operate the engine for about 30 minutes (or 15
miles), then check the belt tension. Check again
after 8 hours of operation (or 250 miles). Adjust
BELT (See Fig. 3)
1. Rotate the compressor up and away from the
engine until belt tension is 90 to 100 lb (41 to 45
kg).
2. Tighten the compressor mounting and adjust-
ment capscrews 34 lbf·ft (46 N·m).
3. Operate the engine for about 30 minutes (or 15
miles), then check the belt tension. Check again
after 8 hours of operation (or 250 miles). Adjust

Drive Belts 01.07
Drive Belt Replacement, Detroit Diesel Series 55
Belt Replacement (See Fig. 1)

7
4 8
04/09/96 f010974
1. Vibration Damper 4. Fan Belt Tensioner 6. Refrigerant Compressor Pulley
2. Alternator Belt Tensioner 5. Refrigerant Compressor Belt 7. Fan Pulley
3. Alternator Pulley Tensioner 8. Water Pump Pulley
Fig. 1, Drive Belts, Detroit Diesel Series 55

The fan belt must be removed to remove the refriger- 1.4 Raise the belt, and take it off over the
ant compressor belt, and both these belts must be fan. Remove the belt from the engine
removed in order to remove the alternator/water compartment.
pump belt.
2. Install the fan belt.
FAN BELT (See Fig. 1) 2.1 Inspect the pulleys and used belts (even
if installing new belts) as instructed in
1. Remove the fan belt.
Subject 180.
1.1 Insert a breaker bar in the belt tensioner
and rotate the tensioner counterclockwise 2.2 Loop the belt around the fan and align it
off the belt. in the fan pulley.
1.2 Holding the belt tensioner up, remove the 2.3 Insert a breaker bar in the belt tensioner,
belt from the vibration damper. and rotate the tensioner up while install-
ing the belt around the vibration damper
1.3 Slowly release the belt tensioner, and re- pulley.
move the breaker bar.

01.07 Drive Belts
2.4 Slowly release the tensioner assembly 2.5 Remove the breaker bar from the ten-
onto the belt. The tensioner automatically sioner.
tightens the belt to the correct tension.
3. Adjust the refrigerant compressor belt tension.
2.5 Remove the breaker bar from the ten-
3.1 The Detroit Diesel belt tensioner auto-
sioner.
matically adjusts the belt to the correct
3. Adjust the fan belt tension. tension.
3.1 The Detroit Diesel belt tensioner auto- 3.2 If the belt slips, repair or replace the ten-
matically adjusts the belt to the correct sioner. For instructions, refer to the en-
tension. gine manufacturer’s service literature.
3.2 If the belt slips, repair or replace the ten-
sioner. For instructions, refer to the en-
ALTERNATOR/WATER PUMP BELT
gine manufacturer’s service literature. (See Fig. 1)
REFRIGERANT COMPRESSOR NOTE: To remove the alternator belt, you must

first remove the fan belt and refrigerant com-
BELT (See Fig. 1) pressor belt.
NOTE: To remove the refrigerant compressor 1. Remove the alternator/water pump belt.
belt, you must first remove the fan belt.
1.1 Insert a breaker bar in the alternator belt
1. Remove the refrigerant compressor belt. tensioner and rotate the tensioner coun-
1.1 Insert a breaker bar in the belt tensioner terclockwise off the belt.
and rotate the tensioner clockwise off the 1.2 Holding the belt tensioner down, remove
belt. the belt from the alternator pulley.
1.2 Holding the belt tensioner down, remove 1.3 Slowly release the belt tensioner, and re-
the belt from the refrigerant compressor. move the breaker bar.
1.3 Slowly release the belt tensioner, and re- 1.4 Lower the belt, and take it off the vibra-
move the breaker bar. tion damper. Raise the belt, and take it off
1.4 Lower the belt, and take it off over the over the fan. Remove the belt from the
fan. Remove the belt from the engine engine compartment.
compartment. 2. Install the alternator/water pump belt.
2. Install the refrigerant compressor belt. 2.1 Inspect the pulleys and used belts (even
2.1 Inspect the pulleys and used belts (even if installing new belts) as instructed in
if installing new belts) as instructed in Subject 180.
Subject 180. 2.2 Loop the belt around the fan and align it
2.2 Loop the refrigerant compressor belt in the grooves of the water pump pulley.
around the fan and align it in the fan pul- 2.3 Loop the belt down and around the vibra-
ley. tion damper pulley.
2.3 Insert a breaker bar in the belt tensioner, 2.4 Insert a breaker bar in the belt tensioner,
and rotate the tensioner clockwise while and rotate the tensioner down while in-
installing the belt on the refrigerant com- stalling the belt on the alternator pulley.
pressor pulley.
2.5 Slowly release the tensioner assembly
2.4 Slowly release the tensioner assembly onto the belt. The tensioner automatically
onto the belt. The tensioner automatically tightens the belt to the correct tension.
tightens the belt to the correct tension.
2.6 Remove the breaker bar from the ten-
sioner.

Drive Belts 01.07
3. Adjust the alternator/water pump belt tension.

3.1 The Detroit Diesel belt tensioner auto-
matically adjusts the belt to the correct
tension.
3.2 If the belt slips, repair or replace the ten-
sioner. For instructions, refer to the en-
gine manufacturer’s service literature.

Drive Belts 01.07
Pulley and Drive Belt Inspection
Inspection 4. Inspect the pulleys for wear on the inner walls.

Hold a small straightedge against the inside of
the pulley walls (Fig. 2), or use your little finger
1. Inspect all used drive belts (including those that
or fingernail to find grooves in the inner walls. If
are being replaced) for the following conditions
there are any grooves, replace the pulley.
(see Fig. 1):
5. Check alignment of pulleys. Use a thin straight-
NOTE: For an installed belt, gently twist the edge that is longer than the longest span be-
belt about 90 degrees so you can see the tween the pulleys. Place the straightedge into the
sidewalls and bottom. V-grooves of two pulleys at a time. The straight-
1.1 Inspect for glazing (shiny sidewalls). See edge should be parallel to the outer edges of the
Ref. A. Glazing is caused by friction cre- pulleys; if not, the pulleys are misaligned.
ated when a loose belt slips in the pul- Pulley misalignment must not be more than 1/16-
leys. It can also be caused by oil or inch for each foot (1.5 mm for each 30.5 cm) of
grease on the pulleys. distance between pulley centers.
1.2 Inspect for separating layers. See Ref. B. If there is misalignment of the pulleys, adjust the
Oil, grease, or belt dressings can cause pulleys or brackets if their positions are adjust-
the belt to fall apart in layers. If engine able. See Fig. 3. Replace bent or broken pulleys,
parts are leaking, repair the oil leaks. Do pulley brackets, or shafts.
not use belt dressings on any belt.
6. Check all drive component mounting parts for
1.3 Check for jagged or streaked sidewalls. loose fasteners, cracks, or other damage.
See Ref. C. These are the result of a for- Tighten loose fasteners. Repair or replace
eign object (such as sand or small gravel) cracked or damaged brackets.
in the pulley, or a rough pulley wall sur-
face.
1.4 Check for tensile breaks (breaks in the
cord body). See Ref. D. Cuts in a belt are
usually caused by large foreign objects in
the pulley, or by prying or forcing the belt
during installation or removal.
1.5 On poly-V belts, check for uneven ribs.
See Ref. E. Foreign objects in the pulley
will erode the undercord ribs, causing the
belt to lose its gripping power.
1.6 Inspect for cracks. See Ref. F. Small, ir-
regular cracks are usually signs of an old
belt.
Replace the belt if any of the above con-
ditions are found. Replace both belts of a
set, at the same time. Matched belts must
be from the same manufacturer.
2. Check all pulley bearings for roughness. Replace
the bearings if they’re rough.
3. Inspect all pulleys for foreign objects, oil, or
grease in the grooves. Use a nonflammable
cleaning solvent to remove oils. Use a wire brush
to remove rust, and a file to remove burrs.

01.07 Drive Belts
GLAZING TENSILE
A D BREAK
SEPARATING E
LAYERS UNEVEN
B RIBS
STREAKED CRACKS
C SIDEWALLS F
f150010
Fig. 1
SMALL
STRAIGHTEDGE
GROOVE
IN PULLEY
WALL
f150011
Fig. 2

Drive Belts 01.07
04/01/93
Fig. 3

Engine Noise Panels, Caterpillar and Cummins 01.08
General Information
General Information
Engine noise panels are installed to reduce engine
noise emissions. The use and installation of noise
panels varies depending on the engine rating.
IMPORTANT: If any of the engine noise panels

are damaged, replace them. Failure to do so
could result in non-compliance with Federal and
California noise emissions standards.

Gear Cover Noise Panel Replacement, Cummins L10
Replacement ( See Fig. 1 )

1. Remove the self-tapping screws that attach the
noise panel to the front gear cover. Remove the
noise panel.
2. Place the new noise panel on the front gear
cover. Install the self-tapping screws and tighten
them 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
06/19/95 f010022a
Fig. 1, L10 Front Gear Cover Noise Panel

Oil Pan Noise Panel Replacement
Replacement (See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2)
MOUNTING
STUD
WASHER
FLANGED NUT
WASHER WASHER
BOLT
Note: Not all fasteners are shown.

pf01_0114
WASHER
LOCKNUT
Fig. 2, Oil Pan Noise Panel (Caterpillar 3406
installation shown)
Note: Not all fasteners are shown.
pf01_0024
Fig. 1, Oil Pan Noise Panel (Cummins installation

shown)
1. Remove the locknuts and washers (Cummins

engines) or bolts and washers (Caterpillar en-
gines) that attach the oil pan noise panel to the
oil pan. Remove the noise panel.
2. Place the new noise panel into position under
the oil pan, then install the washers and lock-
nuts, or bolts. Tighten the locknuts 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m). Tighten the bolts until secure.

Engine Block Noise Panel Replacement,
Cummins NTC Big Cam IV
Replacement (See Fig. 1) 4. Remove the power steering pump. For instruc-
tions, refer to the index in this manual.
EXHAUST-SIDE (RIGHT) NOISE 5. Move any plumbing hoses or electrical wiring out
of the way. Remove the noise panel mounting
PANELS fasteners. Remove the noise panel.
1. On the rear panel, remove the two 3/8-inch cap- 6. Position the new panel on the engine. Install the
screws and washers from the bottom of the 5/16-inch nuts and washers. Tighten the nuts 15
panel. lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Remove the two 1/2-inch capscrews and 7. At the bottom of the panel, install the mounting
washers from the top of the panel. Slide the rear brackets under the head of the oil pan mounting
panel off the engine. flange.
2. On the front panel, remove the 3/8-inch cap- On each mounting bracket, install a 5/16-inch
screw and washer from the bottom hole at the capscrew, washer, and spacer. Tighten the cap-
front of the panel. screws 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Remove the two 1/2-inch capscrews and 8. Install the starter, and tighten the mounting fas-
washers from the top of the panel. teners 130 lbf·ft (176 N·m).
Loosen the capscrew that secures the panel As marked earlier, connect the wiring to the
bracket near the dipstick tube housing. starter.
See Fig. 2. Slide the front panel off the engine. 9. Install the power steering pump. For instructions,
3. Slide the new front panel behind the oil filter, refer to the index in this manual.
then position it over the attachment holes. 10. Connect the positive battery cable to the batter-
Install the 1/2-inch capscrews and washers in the ies.
top of the panel. Tighten the capscrews 70 lbf·ft 11. Replace any plumbing hoses or electrical wiring
(95 N·m). moved out of the way for panel replacement.
Install the 3/8-inch capscrew and washer in the
bottom hole at the front of the panel. Tighten the
capscrew 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m).
At the dipstick tube housing, place the panel
bracket over the panel. Install and tighten the
4. Place the new rear panel on the engine. Install
the two 1/2-inch capscrews and washers in the
top of the panel. Tighten the capscrews 70 lbf·ft
(95 N·m).
Install the two 3/8-inch capscrews and washers
in the bottom of the panel. Tighten the cap-
screws 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m).
INTAKE-SIDE (LEFT) NOISE

PANEL
1. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the
batteries.
2. Mark the starter wires, then disconnect them.
3. Remove the starter from the engine. See Fig. 3.

01.08 Engine Noise Panels, Caterpillar and Cummins
Intake Side
Noise Panel
1 7
1 7
Exhaust Side
Noise Panels
Rear Panel
1 1 Front Panel
1 6
6
2 1
2
1 5
2 5
1
3
1 1. Washer
3
4 2. 1/2−inch Capscrew
3 3. 3/8−inch Capscrew
1 4. Panel Bracket
3
5. Mounting Bracket
6. 5/16−inch Capsrew
7. 5/16−inch Nut pf01_0023
Fig. 1

03/31/93 f010624
Fig. 2, Exhaust-Side Noise Panels
03/31/93 f010101
Fig. 3, Intake-Side Noise Panel

Detroit Diesel Electronic Controls (DDEC II®) 01.09
General Description and The driver controls the system by using the elec-
tronic foot pedal assembly (EFPA), which operates
Principles of Operation (See Fig. 1 like a standard, mechanical accelerator pedal.
and Fig. 2) The "Chk Eng" light (CEL), and the "Shutdown" light
inform the driver of potential problems. The CEL can
The DDEC II system is an electronic engine control also be used to read diagnostic engine codes.
system that is available on Detroit Diesel Series 50
and Series 60 engines. The system controls engine ELECTRONIC CONTROL
timing and fuel injection, and monitors various engine
functions. The DDEC II system is self-diagnostic, MODULE (ECM)
providing the operator with codes to indicate both The electronic control module (Fig. 3 or Fig. 4) is the
malfunctioning components and engine-related prob- center of the system. It is a microprocessor that con-
lems. If potentially damaging engine conditions are trols and monitors the system, sending commands to
detected, the system is capable (depending on in- the various engine components, and receiving data
stalled options) of limiting engine operation, or com- from them. The ECM contains an electrically
pletely shutting down the engine.
1
2
08/13/93 f010124
1. Electronic Unit Injectors 3. Electronic Control Module (ECM)
2. Sensors 4. Electronic Accelerator Pedal
Fig. 1
The center of the system is a microprocessor called eraseable, programmable read-only memory (EE-
the electronic control module (ECM), which controls PROM), which is encoded with engine performance
and monitors the system. The ECM receives data data such as rated horsepower, torque curve, maxi-
from the various sensors on or near the engine, and mum engine speed, and optional protection features.
sends commands to the electronic unit injectors on
The ECM is located on the lower left side of the en-
the engine, thus controlling engine speed and fuel
gine.
consumption.
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 3, February 1994 050/1

01.09 Detroit Diesel Electronic Controls (DDEC II®)
A B
1
8
11
3
4 9
5
10
12
7
13
− +
14
08/13/93 f010123a
A. Inputs
B. Outputs
1. Timing Reference 6. Oil Pressure 11. Injectors
2. Synch Reference 7. Coolant Level 12. Shutdown Light
3. Turbo-Boost Pressure 8. EEPROM 13. Check Engine Light
4. Throttle Position 9. Electronic Control Module 14. Battery
5. Oil Temperature 10. Diagnostic Data Link (DDL)
Fig. 2
ELECTRONIC ACCELERATOR ELECTRONIC UNIT

PEDAL INJECTORS
The electronic accelerator pedal operates much like The electronic unit injectors are located under the
a mechanical accelerator pedal, controlling the valve cover of the engine, and are not externally vis-
amount of fuel injected into the cylinders, and thus ible. They are controlled by the ECM, via the elec-
engine speed. There is no mechanical throttle link- tronic foot pedal assembly.
age in the DDEC II system.
SYNCHRONOUS REFERENCE
SENSOR
The synchronous reference sensor, located at the
rear of the engine gear case, senses when the num-
050/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 3, February 1994

2 TIMING REFERENCE SENSOR

1
The timing reference sensor, located near the teeth
of the timing wheel, senses when each piston
reaches 10 degrees BTDC. The ECM uses this infor-
mation to monitor engine rpm.
TURBO BOOST PRESSURE

SENSOR (TBS)
The turbo boost pressure sensor (Fig. 4 or Fig. 5),
located on the intake manifold, monitors the amount
08/13/93 f010167
of air entering the engine, and transmits this informa-
NOTE: Detroit Diesel Series 60 engine shown. tion to the ECM. The ECM uses this information to
1. Electronic Control Module (ECM) regulate the fuel supply in order to control engine
2. Engine Block smoke.
Fig. 3
08/13/93 f150074
NOTE: Detroit Diesel Series 60 engine shown.
1. Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor
Fig. 5
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR

08/13/93 f010655 The oil pressure sensor, which is connected to the
NOTE: Detroit Diesel Series 50 engine shown.
main oil gallery (see Fig. 6), sends continuous elec-
trical signals to the ECM, telling what the oil pressure
1. Turbo-Boost Pressure Sensor
2. Electronic Control Module (ECM) is at any given speed. If a low oil pressure signal is
detected by the ECM for more than seven seconds,
Fig. 4 the ECM signals the dash warning light ("Shut-
down"), and if the system is so equipped, begins to
ber one piston reaches about 45 degrees before top- shut down the engine.
dead-center (BTDC). This information is sent to the
ECM, which uses it to determine engine speed.

01.09 Detroit Diesel Electronic Controls (DDEC II®)
down" light, and if the vehicle is equipped with an

1 2 3 engine shutdown option, the engine will shut down.
07/10/95 f010169
Fig. 7
DASH LIGHTS AND CONTROLS

There are two standard dash lights, the "Chk Eng"
01/22/96 f010658 light and the "Shutdown" light. Both are located on
NOTE: Detroit Diesel Series 50 engine shown. the dashboard lightbar (see Fig. 8), and both light up
1. Coolant Temperature Light Switch Port when the ignition is turned on. If the DDEC II system
2. Coolant Temperature Gauge Port and the engine are functioning normally, both lights
3. Fan Control Switch Port will go out after three to eight seconds.
4. Oil Pressure Sensor Port
1 2 3
Fig. 6
OIL TEMPERATURE SENSOR CHK

ENG
SHUT
DOWN
The oil temperature sensor monitors the temperature

of the engine oil, and relays this information to the
ECM. The ECM changes the engine speed according
to this information, improving cold weather starts and
providing faster warm-ups. If the oil temperature is
too high for more than two seconds, the "Shutdown"
dash light will come on, and if the vehicle is
equipped with engine shutdown options, the engine
will shut down.
COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR

(CLS) 01/21/94 f600062
The coolant level sensor, which is located on the ra- 1. VIGIL Lightbar 3. Engine Shutdown
diator top or surge tank (see Fig. 7), monitors the 2. Check Engine Light Light
level and temperature of the coolant in the radiator,
and relays this information to the ECM. If the coolant Fig. 8
level is too low, the ECM will turn on the dash "Shut- If the vehicle is equipped with a cruise control, the
cruise control system is connected to the main

DDEC II system; it doesn’t operate as a separate On vehicles with the engine shutdown option, an
system. See Fig. 9 for the location of the cruise con- "Override" button allows the driver to get the vehicle
trol switches on the dash. off the road if the engine begins to shut down. It is
on the left-side lower dash (see Fig. 9).
08/13/93 f150077
Fig. 9
The "Eng Chk" button (Fig. 10), below the left side of
the upper steering column cover panel, is used to
read the diagnostic codes from the "Chk Eng" light.
1 2 3
10/26/93 f010670
1. Engine Check Button
2. DDL Connector (6-Pin or 12-Pin)
3. Upper Steering Column Cover Panel
Fig. 10

Cold Start System, Turner Quick-Start® 01.10
General Description and

The Turner Quick-Start ( Fig. 1) is an ether injection
system which, when activated, distributes a small
amount of ether in the engine intake manifold, by
way of an atomizer ( Fig. 2). During cold weather,
the ether injection system assists in starting the en-
gine.
Electric models are operated by a dash-mounted
pushbutton, with one circuit to the ignition, and an-
other to a thermostatically controlled solenoid valve.
The solenoid valve is attached to the mechanical 1. Atomizer
valve body, from which a nylon tube is routed to an
ether atomizer. The ether is stored in a fuel cylinder 03/30/93 f010045
mounted on the firewall, frame rail, or other location. Fig. 2, Atomizer (Cummins NTC Installation)
NOTE: During cold weather start-ups, heat generated
in the engine cylinders due to air compression may
not be high enough to ignite the fuel and start the
engine. When the electric pushbutton is activated, a
measured amount of ether is discharged through the
nylon tube from the ether reservoir to the atomizer.
The atomizer sprays a fine mist of ether in the intake
manifold.
As the engine is cranked, the heat generated by air
compression ignites the highly combustible ether
fumes. This, in turn, fires the diesel fuel until suffi-
cient engine heat and pressure are built up to sustain
combustion.
NOTE: A thermostat ground-interrupt opens at
95± 10°F (35± 6°C), and closes at 70°(21°C),
preventing ether injection when it is not needed
or recommended.
03/30/93 f150052
Fig. 1, Turner Quick-Start

NOTE: Refer to the Freightliner driver’s manual
for operating instructions.

Component Replacement
Safety Precautions Valve Body/Solenoid ( See Fig. 1 )

1. Remove the fuel cylinder, as described under
WARNING "Fuel Cylinder." Cap the cylinder.
WARNING: Ether is extremely flammable, toxic,
and harmful or fatal if swallowed. If splashed in 1 3
the eyes, ether can cause serious injury or blind- 2
ness. Perform all service operations in a well- 1. Atomizer
ventilated area away from heat, open flames, or 2. Engine Intake Manifold 4
sparks; wear goggles to prevent eye injury. Make 3. Fuel Cylinder
4. Cylinder Clamp 5
sure the valve, tube, and atomizer openings are 6
5. Wing Nut
pointed away from you and other persons. 6. Nylon Tube
If ether is swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMIT- 7. Fastener (Bolt)
ING. Contact a doctor immediately. Avoid contact 8. Valve Mounting Bracket
with your skin and eyes, and do not breathe the 9. Valve Body
fumes. If ether gets in your eyes, rinse them with 10. Valve Fitting
11. Solenoid
plenty of clean water for 15 minutes. Contact an 12. Splice
eye specialist. 13. Thermostat 7
14. Water Manifold 8
CAUTION 15. Ignition Switch
16. Dash Panel 9
17. Electric Pushbutton 10
CAUTION: Whenever ether-conducting compo-
nents (nylon tube, atomizer, valve body) are dis- 12 11
connected, cap the components to prevent any
dirt or other foreign material from entering. Dirt
13
inside the ether-injection system can clog parts
and damage the system. 14
Fuel Cylinder ( See Fig. 1 )

IMPORTANT: Before removing and installing a A B
15
fuel cylinder, refer to the manufacturer’s caution C
16
located on the cylinder. 03/30/93 17 f010103
1. Wipe all dirt from the exterior of the valve body.
Fig. 1, Turner Quick-Start Installation
2. Loosen the wing nuts on the cylinder clamp. Re-
move the cylinder from the valve body. 2. Remove the valve fitting and tube assembly from
the valve body. Cap the fitting.
3. Replace the valve gasket (in the valve opening)
with a new one. 3. Mark, and then disconnect the solenoid valve
wires at the splices.
4. Remove the cap from the new cylinder. Install
the cylinder hand-tight on the valve body. 4. Remove the fasteners attaching the valve body
and solenoid valve to the mounting bracket. Re-
5. Tighten the cylinder clamp wing nuts snug. Make move the valve body.
sure the front saddle of the clamp firmly holds
the cylinder in place. 5. Place the new valve body on the mounting
bracket and install the fasteners. Tighten the nuts
84 to 120 lbf·in (940 to 1360 N·cm).
6. Remove the cap from the valve fitting and tube
assembly, and attach the fitting to the valve. Us-

01.10 Cold Start System, Turner Quick-Start®
Component Replacement
ing a wrench, tighten the fitting a few turns. The

fitting should not bottom in the valve.
7. Connect the wires at the splices of the solenoid
valve, as previously marked.
8. Remove the cap from the fuel cylinder. Install the
cylinder hand-tight on the valve. Tighten the cyl-
inder clamp wing nuts, making sure the front
saddle of the clamp holds the cylinder firmly in
place.
Atomizer ( See Fig. 2 )

1. Remove the tube ferrule and nut assembly. Dis- 1. Atomizer
connect the tube from the atomizer and cap the
03/30/93 f010045
tube.
2. Remove the atomizer from the intake manifold; Fig. 2, Atomizer (Shown Installed on Cummins NTC)
install a new one. Tighten the atomizer a few
turns until secure.
IMPORTANT: The orifices in the atomizer must
point toward the turbocharger on L10 engines,
and toward the front of NTC engines.
3. Remove the cap from the tube, and attach the 03/30/93 f600122
tube to the atomizer. Tighten the tube ferrule and
Fig. 3, Electric Pushbutton
nut assembly a few turns until secure.
3. Remove the screws that attach the control panel
Tube ( See Fig. 1 ) to the dash. Move the panel away from the dash.
4. Remove the knurled nut from the pushbutton
1. Remove the tube ferrule and nut assemblies. switch.
Disconnect the tube from the valve fitting and the
atomizer and cap the fitting and atomizer. 5. Reference, then disconnect the wires from the
switch. Remove the pushbutton switch from the
2. Insert one end of the new tube in a new ferrule panel.
and nut assembly. Remove the cap from the
valve fitting, and insert the tube until it bottoms in 6. Install the switch using the above instructions in
the fitting. Turn the ferrule and nut assembly a reverse order.
few turns to secure the tube in the fitting. Make
sure that the tube can’t be pulled out of the fit-
ting. Repeat for the other tube end at the water
manifold.
Electric Pushbutton ( See Fig. 3 )

1. To prevent an accidental short in the electrical
circuit, disconnect the battery ground cable at the
vehicle frame.
2. Remove the rubber cap from the pushbutton
switch.

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting atomizer from the engine intake manifold. Again,

operate the valve, and catch the ether discharge
in a cloth or paper towel. If no ether is dis-
WARNING charged, the atomizer is clogged or damaged.
Replace the atomizer.
WARNING: Ether is extremely flammable, toxic,
and harmful or fatal if swallowed. If splashed in
the eyes, ether can cause serious injury or blind-
ness. Perform all service operations in a well-
ventilated area away from heat, open flames, or
sparks; wear goggles to prevent eye injury. Make
sure the valve, tube, and atomizer openings are
pointed away from you and other persons.
If ether is swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMIT-
ING. Contact a doctor immediately. Avoid contact
with your skin and eyes, and do not breathe the
fumes. If ether gets in your eyes, rinse them with
plenty of clean water for 15 minutes. Contact an
eye specialist.
If the ether-injection system is not working, do the

following:
1. Remove the cylinder from the valve, and check
the fuel supply. An empty cylinder weighs about
17 oz (480 g); a full one weighs about 37 oz
(1050 g). Replace the cylinder if damaged or
empty. After installing the partially full or new fuel
cylinder, check for leaks; make sure the cylinder
is hand-tightened securely on the valve.
IMPORTANT: Before replacing the cylinder, re-
place the valve gasket with a new one.
NOTE: For the following steps, ambient tem-
peratures must be below the thermostat ground
interrupt of 95± 10°F (35± 6°C).
2. Disconnect the nylon tube at the valve fitting.
Have someone operate the valve from inside the
cab; catch the ether discharge in a cloth or paper
towel. If no ether is discharged, the valve body
or solenoid valve is clogged or damaged. Re-
place the valve assembly.
3. If ether was discharged in the step above, con-
nect the nylon tube to the valve; disconnect the
other end of the tube from the atomizer. Again,
operate the valve, and catch the ether discharge
in a cloth or paper towel. If no ether is dis-
charged, the tube is clogged. Replace the tube.
4. If ether was discharged in the step above, con-
nect the nylon tube to the atomizer. Remove the

Jacobs® Engine Brake, Model 404 01.11
General Description and 1. Activating the engine brake energizes the sole-
noid valve, allowing engine oil to flow under
Principles of Operation pressure through the control valve to both the
master piston and the slave piston.
Jacobs engine brake housings are installed on the
engine rocker housings. Model 404 (used on Cum-
mins L10 engines) has two engine brake housings
that operate three cylinders each. Each engine brake
housing has a solenoid valve, control valve, ball
check valve, master piston, and slave piston.
Engine brake controls consist of: two dashmounted
toggle switches ( Fig. 1), a clutch switch mounted
under the dash for 120 Conventionals ( Fig. 2), or
under the cab for COEs ( Fig. 3), and the throttle
switch mounted on the engine fuel pump. The
switches are wired in series so that all of the CLUTCH
switches must be closed to operate the engine SWITCH
brake. The engine brake is activated when one or
both of the dash switches is on (up), and the clutch
and throttle pedals are released. The dash switches
enable the driver to operate the engine brake par-
tially or fully.
Model 404 engine brakes can be operated at one-
half or full capacity (three or six cylinders).
When activated, the engine brake converts a power-
producing diesel engine to a power absorbing air
compressor. This is accomplished by motion transfer
through a master-slave piston arrangement which
opens the engine cylinder exhaust valves near the
top of the normal compression stroke, releasing the
compressed cylinder charge to exhaust. The blow-
down of compressed air to atmospheric pressure
prevents the return of energy to the engine piston on CLUTCH
the expansion (power) stroke. This results in a net PEDAL
energy loss because the work done in compressing SHAFT
the cylinder charge is not returned during the expan-
sion process. Exhaust blowdown occurs as follows (
see Fig. 4 ):
F R
W R f250072
D
C
C Y Fig. 2
Y L
L S
S 2. Oil pressure causes the master piston to move
down, coming to rest on the injector rocker lever
02/12/93 f600588 adjusting screw.
Fig. 1, Engine Brake Dash Switches

01.11 Jacobs® Engine Brake, Model 404
3. The injector rocker lever adjusting screw begins

upward travel (as in the normal injection cycle)
forcing the master piston upward and creating a
high-pressure oil flow to the slave piston. The
ball check valve in the control valve holds the
high-pressure oil in the master-slave piston sys-
tem.
4. When the engine piston is near top dead center,
the slave piston moves down under the influence
of the high-pressure oil flow. This momentarily
opens one of the exhaust valves, releasing com-
pressed cylinder air to the exhaust manifold.
5. Compressed air is released to the atmosphere,
completing a compression braking cycle.
11/06/92 f010107
Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Switch Replacement
Dash Switch Replacement 2. Mark the wires for later reference, and discon-
nect them from the throttle switch.
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for the engine brake wiring 3. Remove the screws that attach the throttle switch
diagram. to the switch bracket on the fuel pump governor
housing. Remove the throttle switch.
1. Park the vehicle and disconnect the battery.
4. If replacing the actuating arm, remove the nut
2. Remove the screws that attach the control panel that attaches the actuating arm to the fuel pump
to the dash. Lift the panel to a serviceable level. throttle shaft. Remove the actuating arm.
3. Remove the switch cap nut, and remove the 5. Install the switch on the fuel pump governor
switch from the panel. housing and attach it with the screws.
4. Mark the wires for later reference, then discon- 6. If previously removed, attach the actuating arm
nect them from the switch. to the fuel pump throttle shaft with the nut. The
5. Connect the wires to the new switch, as previ- arm may be bent or manipulated to obtain the
ously marked. proper position for switch contact. Adjust the
screw in the actuating arm to a point where an
6. Install the switch through the rear of the panel, audible click is heard when the throttle arm
and attach it with the cap nut. moves to the idle position (throttle pedal re-
7. Place the panel in the dash, and attach it with leased).
the screws. IMPORTANT: After installing the actuating arm,
8. Connect the battery. check the fuel pump throttle shaft to ensure that
the throttle pedal will move the shaft to the full
Throttle Switch Replacement fuel position.
7. Connect the wires to the switch, as previously
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for the engine brake wiring marked.
diagram.
IMPORTANT: The throttle switch terminal with
the diode must be connected to the load (sole-
CIRCUIT CLUTCH noid valve) side of the circuit. See Fig. 1.
from key switch BREAKER SWITCH
8. Return the cab or hood to the operating position.
THROTTLE
Clutch Switch Replacement
SWITCH
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for the engine brake wiring
diagram.
SOLENOID
DIODE VALVES 1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires.
2. Mark the wires for later reference; disconnect
them from the clutch switch.
Front Rear
3. Remove the nuts, washers, and screws that at-
tach the switch to the mounting bracket. Remove
DASH ENGINE BRAKE HOUSINGS the switch.
SWITCHES f540472 4. Place the new switch on the bracket, and loosely
install the screws, washers, and nuts. See Fig. 2
Fig. 1, Wiring Diagram or Fig. 3.
1. Tilt the cab or hood. For instructions, refer to the
vehicle driver’s manual.

Switch Replacement
The switch arm should deflect 1 to 1-1/2 inches

(25 to 38 mm) when the clutch is engaged.
See Fig. 2. Tighten the switch mounting nuts se-
curely.
marked.
11/06/92 f010107
PANHEAD SCREW,
WASHER, NUT Fig. 3, Clutch Switch Mounting (COE shown)
CLUTCH
SWITCH
MOUNTING
BRACKET
1 to 1−1/2 in
(25 to 38 mm)
CLUTCH
PEDAL
SHAFT
f250290
Fig. 2, Clutch Switch Mounting (FLD Conventional

shown)

Component Removal, Inspection, Adjustment,and
Installation
Engine Brake Housing (

See Fig. 1)
REMOVAL
OIL SUPPLY OIL CONNECTOR
CAPSCREW HOSE
O−RING
SLAVE PISTON
ADJUSTING SPACER
SCREW
CROSSHEAD
ADJUSTING 05/27/93 f010474
SCREWS
Fig. 2
CAPSCREW
INJECTOR
ADJUSTING
SCREW
SPACER
GASKET
01/30/96 f010097
Fig. 1 f010488
Fig. 3
WARNING
WARNING: To avoid personal injury, never re-
move any engine brake component with the en-
gine running.
2. Wipe clean the engine brake housing area. Re-
move the rocker housing cover capscrews, and
remove the cover and gasket from the spacer.
3. Disconnect the solenoid electrical harness from
the terminal leadout in the spacer. See Fig. 2.
4. Remove the steel plates, O-ring, and gasket from 12/08/94 f010508
the spacer. See Fig. 3. Disconnect the oil hose
from the front brake housing, and remove it Fig. 4
through the hole in the spacer. See Fig. 4.
5. Remove the engine brake housing holddown
capscrews. See Fig. 5.

Installation
OIL SUPPLY TUBE
f010409
Fig. 6
f010501
Fig. 5
6. Remove the engine brake housing from the
rocker-shaft supports.
INSTALLATION
1. If the oil connector was previously removed from
the front housing, then install the connector and
O-ring into the front housing as far as it will go (
Fig. 6).
2. Back out the slave-piston adjusting screws until
the slave pistons are fully retracted (screws are
loose). See Fig. 7.
3. Place the rear brake housing on the rockershaft
supports over cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Loosely in-
stall four Jacobs holddown capscrews.
See Fig. 5. Lubricate the threads and underside
of the capscrew heads.
NOTE: No washers are used with the cap- f010410
screws.
Fig. 7
4. Place the front brake housing on the rocker-shaft
supports over cylinders 1, 2, and 3. Carefully in- and underside of the capscrew heads. Make
sert the oil connector into the rear housing. sure that the oil connector is centered between
the housings. See Fig. 9.
Loosely install four Jacobs hold-down capscrews.
See Fig. 8. Lubricate the threads NOTE: No washers are used with the cap-
screws.

Installation
CYLINDERS
FRONT
1 2 3 4 5 6
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
SUPPORTS
pf01_0559
Fig. 10
f010501
Fig. 8
f010509
Fig. 11
mallet to obtain proper alignment. Be sure the
number 5 support remains in the most forward
position.
8. Tighten the number 5 rocker-lever support hold-
down capscrew 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm).
9. Put a 0.022-inch (0.56-mm) feeler-gauge be-
f010468 tween the number 5 support and the rocker lever
on the number 4 cylinder. Set the side clearance.
Fig. 9 See Fig. 13.
5. Slide the number 5 support as far forward as With the feeler gauge in position, slide the num-
possible. See Fig. 10 for the next several steps. ber 6 support as far forward as possible. Tighten
the capscrew 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm).
6. Align the rear brake housing so that the slave
pistons are over the Jacobs actuating pins in the 10. Put the feeler gauge between the number 6 sup-
exhaust crossheads on all three cylinders (4, 5, port and the rocker lever on the number 5 cylin-
and 6). See Fig. 11. Swing each crosshead der. Set the side clearance.
through its free side play. With the feeler gauge in position, slide the num-
7. All three Jacobs actuating pins should remain ber 7 support as far forward as possible. Tighten
completely under the slave pistons. See Fig. 12. the capscrew 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm).
If necessary, tap the housing gently with a soft

Installation
the brake housing is properly aligned, tighten the

number 4 support hold-down capscrew 60 lbf·in
(680 N·cm).
SLAVE PISTON STEM 15. Put the feeler gauge between the number 4 sup-
port and the rocker lever on the number 3 cylin-
CROSSHEAD Actuating pin der. Set the side clearance.
ADJUSTING in most extreme With the feeler gauge in position, slide the num-
SCREW position
acceptable
ber 3 support as far back as possible. Tighten
16. Put the feeler gauge between the number 3 sup-
port and the rocker lever on the number 2 cylin-
CROSSHEAD der. Set the side clearance.
With the feeler gauge in position, slide the num-
17. Put the feeler gauge between the number 2 sup-
pf01_0562 port and the rocker lever on the number 1 cylin-
der. Set the side clearance.
Fig. 12
With the feeler gauge in position, slide the num-
18. Check that all side clearances are within 0.020 to
0.025 inch (0.51 to 0.64 mm).
19. Check the alignment of the front brakehousing
slave pistons to the crosshead actuating pins.
20. Tighten the hold-down capscrews on each hous-
ing. See Fig. 14. First, tighten the two middle
capscrews ( Fig. 15 , Ref. A) 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m);
tighten the two outside capscrews ( Fig. 15 ,
Ref. B) the same amount. Second, using the
f010470 same sequence, tighten the capscrews 75 lbf·ft
(102 N·m). Finally, tighten the middle capscrews,
Fig. 13 then the outside capscrews 95 lbf·ft (129 N·m).
11. Put the feeler gauge between the number 7 sup- 21. Adjust the injectors first, then the valves, using
port and the rocker lever on the number 6 cylin- Cummins’ L10 engine troubleshooting and repair
der. Set the side clearance. manual. Note that the valves to be adjusted are
not on the same cylinder as the injector being
With the feeler gauge in position, slide the num- set. Follow the Cummins 10 Liter sequence
ber 8 support as far forward as possible. Tighten chart. The Cummins dial indicator extension can
the capscrew 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm). be positioned so that the indicator extension can
12. Check the rear brake housing slave piston-to- reach any injector. See Fig. 16. Use the long
exhaust crosshead actuating pin alignment. stem extension, Cummins PN 3376749. Make
sure the extension is clear of all engine and en-
13. Slide the number 4 support as far back as pos- gine brake components (moves freely).
sible.
22. If installing a new engine brake housing, or if the
14. Check the front brake housing alignment as pre- slave piston was removed, adjust the slave pis-
viously outlined for the rear brake housing. After

Installation
f010463
02/11/93 f010625
Fig. 16
Fig. 14
B A A B
12/08/94 f010508
pf01_0561
Fig. 17
Fig. 15
ton using the instructions under "Slave Piston WARNING
Adjustment." If the previously removed engine
brake is being installed and the slave piston was WARNING: Keep the oil hose clear of all hot en-
not removed, proceed to the next step. gine components and free from rubbing on the
engine or chassis. A ruptured hose will spray hot
23. Slide a new Jacobs oil-hose gasket over the oil and could cause heavy smoke or fire upon
male end of the Jacobs oil-hose assembly. hitting hot engine components.
See Fig. 17.
25. Slide the gasket, O-ring, and steel plates up to
24. Insert the male end of the oil-hose assembly the spacer. Secure them in place with button-
through the hole in the Jacobs spacer and install head screws. Tighten the screws to 10 lbf·ft (14
it in the front brake housing. See Fig. 4. N·m). Be careful to draw the plate up to the gas-
ket evenly. See Fig. 3.
26. Connect the solenoid harness from each sole-
noid valve to the closest terminal leadout in the
spacer. See Fig. 2.

Installation
27. To bleed the brake units and check their opera-

tion, start the engine and allow it to run 5 to 10
minutes.
Accelerate the engine to approximately 1800
rpm. Release the throttle, then manually depress
each solenoid armature. See Fig. 18. This proce-
dure should be done five or six times to permit
engine oil to completely fill the brake housing
passages.
f010496
Fig. 19
29.2 Apply a 1/16-inch (2 mm) bead of Cum-
mins black RTV sealant or an equivalent,
to the gasket sealing surface on the
cover.
29.3 Set the new gasket on the cover, then
place the cover on the spacer.
29.4 Install the capscrews and hold-downs.
29.5 Using the sequence in Fig. 20, in 45 lbf·in
(500 N·cm) increments on each pass,
tighten the rocker-housing-cover cap-
f010476 screws 130 lbf·in (1460 N·cm).
Fig. 18
14 10 6 2 4 8 12
WARNING
WARNING: When the engine is running with the
valve covers removed, there is significant oil front
splash in the engine brake area. Wear eye protec-
tion; do not expose your face over the engine
area. Take precautions to prevent oil leakage
down on the engine.
13 9 5 1 3 7 11
28. With the engine shut down, check the electrical
system by turning the ignition switch on. With the pf01_0560
dash switch labeled "RR CYLS" in the up posi-
tion, the rear brake housing solenoid valve Fig. 20
should activate. With the dash switch labeled 30. Return the cab or hood to the operating position.
"FWD CYLS" in the up position, the front brake
housing solenoid valve should activate.
29. Install the rocker housing cover ( Fig. 19), as
follows:
29.1 Remove the old cover gasket.

Installation
1 1
3 3
2 2
4 4
5 7 7 5
9 9
8 8
6 6
10 10
11 11
12 12
13 13
14 14
15 22 15
16 23 16
19 21 21 19
24
20 20
17 17
FRONT HOUSING REAR HOUSING
18 18
1. Retaining Ring 9. Solenoid Valve 17. Outer Spring
2. Control Valve Cover 10. Upper Seal Ring 18. Inner Spring
3. Outer Control Valve Spring 11. Center Seal Ring 19. Spring Retainer
4. Inner Control Valve Spring 12. Lower Seal Ring 20. Retaining Ring
5. Control Valve Collar 13. Master Piston 21. Slave Piston
6. Control Valve 14. Flat Spring 22. Ball
7. Slave Piston Adjusting Screw 15. Washer 23. Ball Check Spring
8. Locknut 16. Button Head Screw 24. Pipe Plug
02/11/93 f010111
Fig. 21
Control Valve WARNING

REMOVAL ( See Fig. 21) WARNING: The control valve covers are under
load from the control valve springs. Remove
1. Tilt the cab or hood. For instructions, refer to the them carefully to avoid personal injury.
4. Carefully remove both control valve springs and
2. Wipe the engine brake housing area clean. Re- the collar. See Fig. 23.
move the rocker-housing-cover capscrews and
the rocker housing cover. See Fig. 19. 5. Using needle nose pliers or your fingertips, care-
fully pull the control valve straight up and out of
3. Apply pressure on the control valve cover, and its bore. See Fig. 24.
remove the retaining ring, using retaining ring
pliers. See Fig. 22. INSPECTION
If binding occurs during removal, inspect the control
valve parts for damage or wear, and replace them if
necessary.

Installation
f010465
f010466
Fig. 24
Fig. 22
UP
f010499 f010467
Fig. 23 Fig. 25
WARNING INSTALLATION
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are CAUTION
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the CAUTION: Make sure the control valve collar is
safety precautions recommended by the solvent installed with the longer sleeve area up.
manufacturer. See Fig. 25 . If the collar is installed upside
down, engine damage may result.
If there is no damage, clean the parts in an approved
cleaning solvent. 1. Install the control valve, collar, and springs. Make
sure the retaining ring ears are positioned oppo-
site the oil drain slot in the housing. See Fig. 25.

Installation
2. Install the rocker housing cover on the spacer.

Follow the instructions in the applicable step un-
der "Engine Brake Housing Installation."
Solenoid Valve ( See Fig. 21)

REMOVAL UPPER SEAL RING
1. Tilt the cab or hood. For instructions, refer to the CENTER SEAL RING
LOWER SEAL RING
2. Wipe the engine brake housing area clean. Re-
pf01_0256
move the rocker housing cover capscrews and
the rocker housing cover. See Fig. 19.
3. Disconnect the solenoid harness from the sole- Fig. 27
noid. Using a 7/8-inch socket and extension, re-
move the solenoid valve. See Fig. 26. INSTALLATION
1. Install the solenoid using new seal rings. First,
seat the lower seal ring on the bottom surface of
the housing bore. Place the upper and center
seal rings on the solenoid, and lubricate them
with engine oil. See Fig. 27 for seal locations.
When installing the solenoid valve, make sure
the seals are seated properly, then gently screw
the solenoid into the housing without unseating
the seals. See Fig. 28. Tighten the solenoid
valve 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm).
f010485
UPPER SEAL RING
Fig. 26
CENTER SEAL
INSPECTION RING
LOWER
SEAL
WARNING RING

be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the f010483
manufacturer. Fig. 28
Inspect the oil filter screen and solenoid valve. 2. Install the solenoid harness.
See Fig. 27. If the screen or solenoid valve is dam-
aged, replace it. If it is not damaged, clean it in an
approved cleaning solvent.

Installation
3. Install the rocker housing cover on the spacer.

Follow the instructions in the applicable step un-
der "Engine Brake Housing Installation."
Ball Check Valve ( See Fig. 21)

REMOVAL
1. Remove the engine brake housing from the ve-
hicle. For instructions, refer to "Engine Brake
Housing Removal."
2. Remove the hex socket pipe plug. See Fig. 29.
Be careful during final turns to avoid loss of the
spring and ball. Remove the spring and ball.
f010487
Fig. 30
CAUTION
CAUTION: Make certain the parts are installed in
the order shown in Fig. 30. Improper installation
may result in engine damage.
2. Install the engine brake housing using the in-
structions under "Engine Brake Housing Installa-
tion."
f010486
Fig. 29
Slave Piston ( See Fig. 21)
INSPECTION REMOVAL
WARNING WARNING
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are WARNING: The slave piston is retained by
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may springs that are under heavy compression. If the
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the following instructions are not followed and
safety precautions recommended by the solvent proper tools are not used, the springs could be
manufacturer. discharged with enough force to cause personal
injury. Wear safety glasses.
Inspect the parts for wear, then clean them in an ap-
proved cleaning solvent, or replace them if neces- Use the single-valve slave-piston clamp fixture, PN
sary. 012359, and the following instructions to remove the
slave piston:
1. Assemble the ball check valve by first inserting
the ball, then the spring, and then tighten the
plug. See Fig. 30.

Installation

hicle using the instructions under "Engine Brake
Housing Removal."
2. Remove the locknut on the slave piston adjusting
screw. See Fig. 31 . Back out the adjusting
screw until the slave piston is fully retracted
(screw is loose).
02/11/93 f010627
Fig. 32
02/11/93 f010626
Fig. 31
3. Place the hole in the clamp fixture over the slave
piston adjusting screw. See Fig. 32. While hold-
ing the fixture in position, screw the holder down
over the slave piston until the washer is de- f010480
pressed about 0.04 inch (1 mm), so that the re-
taining ring is loose in the groove. Remove the Fig. 33
retaining ring. See Fig. 33. Back out the holder
Check for binding or burrs during removal. Clean the
and remove the fixture.
components in an approved cleaning solvent, or re-
4. Remove all slave piston components. place them if they are damaged. Make sure all com-
See Fig. 34. ponents are assembled in the proper order.
INSPECTION INSTALLATION
1. Use the clamp fixture to install the piston and
WARNING springs. Make sure the retaining ring is placed
on the washer before screwing the clamp holder
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are down over the slave piston. See Fig. 35.
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the 2. Push the slave piston and springs down until the
safety precautions recommended by the solvent washer is about 0.04 inch (1 mm) below the re-
manufacturer. taining ring groove. Install the retaining ring.

Installation
IMPORTANT: Slave piston adjustment must be

made with the engine stopped and cold. The
exhaust valves on the cylinder to be adjusted
must be closed.
CAUTION
CAUTION: To ensure maximum engine brake ef-
ficiency, and to prevent engine damage by
piston-to-valve contact, follow the instructions
carefully.
Adjust the slave piston lash as follows:
1. Insert a 0.015-inch Jacobs feeler gauge between
the slave piston and the actuating pin in the
f010482 crosshead. Turn the adjusting screw until you
Fig. 34 feel a light drag on the feeler gauge.
See Fig. 36.
f010479
Fig. 35
Make sure the retaining ring is fully seated in the
groove. Remove the clamp fixture.
3. Remove, inspect, and install the slave piston ad-
f010410
justing screw using the instructions under "Slave
Piston Adjusting Screw Removal, Inspection, and Fig. 36
Installation."
2. Hold the screw in position with a screwdriver.
Using a crowfoot wrench ( Fig. 37), tighten the
Adjustment locknut 22 lbf·ft (30 N·m).
When adjusting an engine overhead, the most effi-
cient time to adjust the slave piston lash is after set- CAUTION
ting the exhaust valves on each cylinder. CAUTION: Pay special attention to this adjust-
ment. After the slave-piston adjusting-screw lock-

Installation
f010461 f010506
Fig. 37 Fig. 38
nut is properly tightened, check the clearance safety precautions recommended by the solvent
with the Jacobs feeler gauge. Over-tightening Ja- manufacturer.
cobs screws could cause engine damage.
2. If the screw is damaged, replace it. If the screw
3. Adjust all six slave pistons using this procedure. is not damaged, clean it in an approved cleaning
solvent.
Slave Piston Adjusting Screw (
See Fig. 21)
CAUTION
CAUTION: Don’t attempt to adjust or tamper with
REMOVAL the adjusting screw. This could result in engine
damage.
vehicle driver’s manual. INSTALLATION
2. Wipe the engine brake housing area clean. Re- 1. Install the adjusting screw and attach the locknut.
move the rocker housing cover capscrews and See Fig. 31.
the rocker housing cover. See Fig. 19.
2. If the engine brake housing has been removed
3. Loosen the slave piston adjusting screw locknut, from the engine, install the engine brake hous-
and remove the adjusting screw from the housing, and adjust the slave piston using the instruc-
ing. See Fig. 31. tions under "Engine Brake Housing Installation"
and "Slave Piston Adjustment."
INSPECTION
If the engine brake housing was not removed
1. Inspect the slave piston adjusting screw. The from the engine, adjust the slave piston using the
plunger should have light spring pressure appar- instructions under "Slave Piston Adjustment." In-
ent when depressed, and should move freely. stall the rocker housing cover. Follow the instruc-
See Fig. 38. Make sure the retaining ring is fully tions in the applicable step under "Engine Brake
engaged in its groove. Housing Installation."
WARNING

Installation
Master Piston ( See Fig. 21) INSPECTION

REMOVAL WARNING
1. Remove the engine brake housing from the ve- WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are
hicle. For instructions, refer to "Engine Brake toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may
Housing Removal." be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the
2. Remove the screw, washer, and master piston safety precautions recommended by the solvent
spring from the bottom of the housing. manufacturer.
See Fig. 39 . If binding occurs during removal, check for burrs, or
contaminants in the lube oil. If the piston is dam-
aged, replace it. If the piston is not damaged, clean it
in an approved cleaning solvent.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the piston, spring, washer, and screw.
Make sure that when tightening the capscrew,
the two tabs of the spring do not interfere with
the sides of the center raised portion of the mas-
ter piston. See Fig. 39.
2. Install the engine brake housing using the in-
structions under "Engine Brake Housing Installa-
f010504
tion."
Fig. 39
3. Remove the master piston from its bore; needle-
nose pliers are usually needed to initially pull the
piston up. See Fig. 40.
f010505
Fig. 40

Specifications
Torque Values
Torque lbf·ft Torque lbf·in
Description
(N·m) (N·cm)
Solenoid Valve — 60 (680)
Engine Brake Housing Hold-Down Capscrews 95 (129) —
Slave Piston Adjusting Screw Locknuts 22 (30) —
Oil Hose Connection Button-Head Screws 10 (14) —
Oil Connector Screw Locknut 25 (34) —
Rocker Housing Cover Capscrews — 130 (1460)
Table 1, Torque Values

General Description and high-pressure oil flow to the slave piston. The
ball check valve in the control valve holds the
Principles of Operation high-pressure oil in the master-slave piston sys-
tem.
engine rocker housings. Model 430 (used on Cum- 4. When the engine piston is near top dead center,
mins 88NT engines) has three engine brake hous- the slave piston moves down under the influence
ings that operate two cylinders each. Each engine of the high-pressure oil flow. This momentarily
brake housing has a solenoid valve, control valve, opens one of the exhaust valves, releasing com-
master piston, and slave piston. See Fig. 1. pressed cylinder air to the exhaust manifold.
Engine brake controls consist of: two dashmounted 5. Compressed air is released to the atmosphere,
toggle switches ( Fig. 2), a clutch switch mounted completing a compression braking cycle.
under the dash for FLD Conventionals ( Fig. 3 ), or
under the cab for FLA COEs ( Fig. 4), and the
throttle switch mounted on the engine fuel pump. The
switches are wired in series so that all of the
switches must be closed to operate the engine
brake. The engine brake is activated when one or
both of the dash switches is on (up), and the clutch
and throttle pedals are released. The dash switches
enable the driver to operate the engine brake par-
tially or fully.
Model 430 engine brakes can be operated at one-
third, two-thirds, or full capacity (two, four or six cylin-
ders).
producing diesel engine to a powerabsorbing air
prevents the return of energy to the engine piston on
the expansion (power) stroke. This results in a net
energy loss because the work done in compressing
sion process. Exhaust blowdown occurs as follows
(refer to Fig. 5):
1. Activating the engine brake energizes the sole-
pressure through the control valve to both the
2. Oil pressure causes the master piston to move
down, coming to rest on the injector rocker lever
adjusting screw.
3. The injector rocker lever adjusting screw begins
upward travel (as in the normal injection cycle)
forcing the master piston upward and creating a

SOLENOID
VALVE
AUTO−LASH
ADJUSTING SCREW
CONTROL
VALVE
SLAVE
PISTON
MASTER PISTON
02/17/93 f010209
Fig. 1, Jacobs Engine Brake, Model 430

f600164
11/06/92 f010107
Fig. 4
09/20/93 f250158
1. Clutch Pedal Shaft
2. Clutch Switch
Fig. 3

1
2
3 4 5
oil in 6
8
11
13 12
1. Solenoid Valve
2. Low Pressure Oil Passage
3. Adjusting Screw
4. High Pressure Oil Passage
5. Master Piston 10
6. Injector Rocker Lever Adjusting Screw
7. Injector Push Rod
8. Exhaust Rocker Lever
9. Exhaust Valves 7
10. Exhaust Crosshead
11. Slave Piston
12. Ball Check Valve
13. Control Valve 9
07/07/95 f010218
Fig. 5, Schematic Diagram of Engine Brake Operation

Dash, Throttle, and Clutch Switch Replacement
Dash Switch Replacement 2. Mark the wires for later reference, and discon-
nect them from the throttle switch.
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for the engine brake wiring 3. Remove the screws that attach the throttle switch
diagram. to the switch bracket on the fuel pump governor
housing. Remove the throttle switch.
1. Park the vehicle and disconnect the battery.
4. If replacing the actuating arm, remove the nut
2. Remove the screws that attach the control panel that attaches the actuating arm to the fuel pump
to the dash. Lift the panel to a serviceable level. throttle shaft. Remove the actuating arm.
3. Remove the switch cap nut, and remove the 5. Install the switch on the fuel pump governor
switch from the panel. housing and attach it with the screws.
4. Mark the wires for later reference, then discon- 6. If previously removed, attach the actuating arm
nect them from the switch. to the fuel pump throttle shaft with the nut. The
5. Connect the wires to the new switch, as previ- arm may be bent or manipulated to obtain the
ously marked. proper position for switch contact. Adjust the
screw in the actuating arm to a point where an
6. Install the switch through the rear of the panel, audible click is heard when the throttle arm
and attach it with the cap nut. moves to the idle position (throttle pedal re-
7. Place the panel in the dash, and attach it with leased).
the screws. IMPORTANT: After installing the actuating arm,
8. Connect the battery. check the fuel pump throttle shaft to ensure that
the throttle pedal will move the shaft to the full
Throttle Switch Replacement fuel position.
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for the engine brake wiring marked.
diagram.
IMPORTANT: The throttle switch terminal with
CLUTCH the diode must be connected to the load (sole-
CIRCUIT SWITCH noid valve) side of the circuit. See Fig. 1 .
from key switch BREAKER
121
THROTTLE
SWITCH 121A Clutch Switch Replacement
SOLENOID
121B VALVES NOTE: See Fig. 1 for the engine brake wiring
121C diagram.
DIODE
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires.
Front Center Rear 2. Mark the wires for later reference; disconnect
121D
them from the clutch switch at the top of the
clutch pedal shaft.
ENGINE BRAKE HOUSINGS
DASH
SWITCHES
3. Remove the nuts, washers, and screws that at-
f540270 tach the switch to the mounting bracket. Remove
the switch.
Fig. 1, Wiring Diagram
4. Place the new switch on the bracket, and loosely
1. Tilt the cab or hood. For instructions, refer to the install the screws, washers, and nuts. See Fig. 2
vehicle driver’s manual. or Fig. 3.

Dash, Throttle, and Clutch Switch Replacement
Adjust the plunger-type switch side to side so

that the center of the plunger contacts the center
of the clutch lever rib. Add or remove starwash-
ers as shown in Fig. 4 to adjust the plunger
travel.
On the arm-type switch, the switch arm should
deflect 1 to 1-1/2 inches (25 to 38 mm) when the
clutch is engaged. See Fig. 2 . Tighten the
switch mounting nuts securely.
11/06/92 f010107

CLUTCH
SWITCH
2
MOUNTING
BRACKET 1
PANHEAD SCREW,
WASHER,
NUT
CLUTCH
SWITCH
MOUNTING
BRACKET
CLUTCH
PEDAL
SHAFT
09/20/93 f250161
1 to 1−1/2 in
(25 to 38 mm) 1. Mounting Bracket
2. Switch
3. Starwashers
CLUTCH
PEDAL PLUNGER−TYPE Fig. 4
SHAFT CLUTCH SWITCH
ARM−TYPE marked.
CLUTCH SWITCH
03/09/93 f250160
Fig. 2, Clutch Switch Mounting (FLD Conventional

shown)

Engine Brake Housing Removal and Installation
Removal 4. Install Jacobs spacers and Cummins brackets on

the studs from which they were removed.
See Fig. 4.
WARNING 5. Install the Jacobs holddown nuts. See Fig. 5.
WARNING: To avoid personal injury, never re- Tighten them 30 lbf·ft (40 N·m) in the
move any engine brake component with the en- sequence shown in Fig. 6. Then, tighten them 60
gine running. lbf·ft (80 N·m) in the same sequence.
move the rocker housing cover capscrews; re-
move the cover and gasket from the housing.
3. Remove the Jacobs holddown nuts.
4. Remove the engine brake housing.
Installation
1. Check the rocker housing surface to make sure it
is clean and smooth. Install a Jacobs gasket on
the rocker housing. See Fig. 1. Make sure the
slot for the oil supply aligns with the slot in the
rocker housing. If it doesn’t, turn the gasket over.
2. Before placing the brake units on the engine,
loosen and back out the slave piston adjusting 03/23/93 f010634
screw until the slave piston is seated in its bore.
Fig. 2
See Fig. 2.
03/18/93 f010207
Fig. 1
3. Install the engine brake units on the engine. 03/19/93 f010635
Units must go into place without rocker lever in-
terference. See Fig. 3. Fig. 3

CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not use power tools to tighten the
holddown nuts. This could cause the nuts to be
overtightened, possibly resulting in engine brake
housing damage.
6. If installing a new engine brake housing, or if the
slave piston was removed, adjust the slave pis-
ton using the instructions under Subject 140. If
the adjusting screw was loosened in an earlier
step, adjust it.
03/24/93 f010636
NOTE: On engines with step timing control
(STC) connect the oil line to the elbow fitting at
Fig. 4 the rear engine brake housing and to the STC
valve located on the fuel pump side of the en-
gine.
7. Install the gasket and the rocker housing cover.
8. Install the capscrews and tighten them 15 lbf·ft
(20 N·m).
03/24/93 f010637
Fig. 5
6 2
3
4 1 5
CAUTION: Use of power tools may result in

overtightening of holddown nuts. Engine
brake housing damage may result.
02/12/93 f010638
Fig. 6

Control Valve Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal 2. Push a wire through the hole in the base of the

valve to make sure that the ball check is free.
The ball should lift with light pressure on the
wire.
move the capscrews from the rocker housing
cover; then, remove the rocker housing cover.
3. Press down on the control valve cover to relieve
the spring pressure. Using retaining ring pliers,
remove the retaining ring. See Fig. 1 .
IMPORTANT: The control valve covers are un-
der load from the control valve springs. Remove
them carefully to avoid personal injury.
4. Slowly remove the cover until it is no longer un-
der spring pressure. Then, remove the two con-
trol valve springs. See Fig. 2.
5. Using needle-nose pliers, reach into the bore
03/24/93 f010639
and grasp the stem of the control valve. Pull the
valve straight up and out of its bore. See Fig. 3. Fig. 2
Inspection
WARNING
manufacturer.
03/24/93 f010640
Fig. 3
3. Dry the valve with compressed air and wipe it
clean with a paper towel.
4. Using clean paper towels, thoroughly clean the
control valve bore in the housing.
03/24/93 f010645 5. Dip the control valves in clean engine oil. Hold-
ing the valve by the stem, let the valve drop into
Fig. 1 its bore. If it binds or if the ball is stuck in the
valve, replace the control valve.
1. Wash the control valves with approved cleaning
solvent.

Control Valve Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Installation housing. Then, install the gasket and the rocker

housing cover, and insert the capscrews and
1. Install the control valve and the two springs as tighten to 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
shown in Fig. 4
SOLENOID
VALVE
AUTO−LASH
ADJUSTING SCREW
CONTROL
VALVE
SLAVE
PISTON
MASTER PISTON
02/17/93 f010209
Fig. 4
2. Install the control valve cover. While pressing
down on the cover, install the retaining ring in the

Solenoid Valve Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal
1. Disconnect the solenoid harness.
2. Using a 7/8-inch socket and extension, unscrew
the solenoid valve. See Fig. 1.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not disassemble or tamper with
the solenoid valve. Engine damage could result.
3. Remove and discard the three rubber seal rings.
See Fig. 2. If the lower ring stays in the bottom
of the solenoid bore in the housing, remove it
with a piece of wire.
Inspection 03/23/93 f010212
Fig. 1
WARNING
manufacturer.
1. Wash out the solenoid valve with approved

cleaning solvent. Use a brush to clean the oil
screen.
2. Dry the solenoid valve with compressed air. UPPER SEAL RING
3. Using clean paper towels, clean out the solenoid
valve bore in the housing. Do not use rags, since
they can leave lint and residue, which can plug CENTER SEAL RING
the oil passageways.
LOWER SEAL RING
Installation
CAUTION: Do not disassemble or
1. Coat a new set of solenoid seal rings with clean tamper with the solenoid vaLve.
lubricating oil. Install the upper and middle seal Engine damage could result.
rings on the solenoid body and the lower seal
02/17/93 f010301
ring into the bottom of the solenoid bore in the
housing. See Fig. 3. Fig. 2
2. Make sure the seals are seated properly and not
twisted. Carefully screw the solenoid into the
housing without unseating the seals.
3. Tighten the valve 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm).
4. Connect the solenoid harness.

Solenoid Valve Removal, Inspection, and Installation
03/23/93 f010641
Fig. 3

Slave Piston Removal, Inspection, Installation, and
Adjusting
Removal 5. Turn the handle slowly until the retainer is de-

pressed about 0.04 inch (1 mm), relieving pres-
sure against the retaining ring.
WARNING 6. Using retaining ring pliers, remove the retaining
WARNING: The slave piston is retained by ring. See Fig. 3. Back out the holder until the
springs that are under heavy compression. If the springs are loose. Remove the fixture.
following instructions are not followed and
proper tools are not used, the springs could be
discharged with enough force to cause personal
injury. Wear safety glasses and remove the slave
piston carefully.
NOTE: Use slave piston clamp fixture PN

012398 and the following procedure to remove
the slave piston:
hicle using the instructions in Subject 110.
2. Remove the locknut from the slave piston adjust-
ing screw. Back out the adjusting screw until the
slave piston is fully retracted (the screw is loose).
See Fig. 1.
3. Place the clamp fixture hole over the slave piston
adjusting screw. See Fig. 2. Install the locknut
and tighten it snug to hold the fixture securely. 03/23/93 f010642
4. While holding the fixture in position, screw the Fig. 2
holder down over the slave piston until the re-
tainer is contacted.
02/18/93 f010643
Fig. 3
7. Remove all slave piston components. See Fig. 4.
03/23/93 f010210
Fig. 1

Adjusting
Inspection piston clearance is not authorized by Jacobs and

may result in serious engine or engine brake
damage.
WARNING
manufacturer.
1. Clean the components in a solvent that meets

OSHA guidelines.
2. Make sure there are no burrs or binding.
3. Replace any damaged components.
Installation
1. Using the slave piston clamp fixture, install the
piston and springs. Make sure the retaining ring
is placed on the retainer before screwing the
clamp holder down over the slave piston. 02/18/93 f010644
See Fig. 5.
Fig. 4
2. Compress the slave piston and springs until the
retainer is about 0.04 inch (1 mm) below the re-
taining ring groove. Install the retaining ring. Be
sure the retaining ring is fully seated in the
groove.
3. Remove the clamp fixture slowly to ensure
proper seating of the retaining ring.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not leave the open portion of the
retaining ring aligned with the opening in the
housing. This can allow the spring retainer to
work loose when the engine brake is operating.
Serious engine damage will result.
02/18/93 f010643
4. Install the engine brake housing on the engine
using the instructions in Subject 110. Fig. 5
1. Back out the adjusting screw on the cylinder with
Adjusting the exhaust valves closed and insert the correct
Jacobs feeler gauge between the slave piston
CAUTION and crosshead. See Fig. 6. Be sure to use the
correct gauge for your application. Refer to the
CAUTION: Use only the following adjusting pro- table on clearance settings in "Specifica-
cedure. Any other method of adjusting the slave tions, 400."

Adjusting
AUTO−LASH
ADJUSTING
SCREW
SLAVE
PISTON
03/24/93 f010208
Fig. 6 JACOBS
FEELER
2. Turn the adjusting screw in, until a light drag is
GAUGE
felt on the feeler gauge. See Fig. 7.
3. Tighten the locknut 25 lbf·ft (35 N·m). See Fig. 8.
NOTE: If a crowfoot wrench is used, tighten the
locknut 22 lbf·ft (30 N·m).
EXHAUST
4. Continue turning the engine in the normal direc- CROSSHEAD
tion of rotation and set the slave piston clearance
on the remaining cylinders in the firing order se-
quence.
07/05/95 f010628
Fig. 7
03/25/93 f010629
Fig. 8

Slave Piston Adjusting Screw Removal,
Inspection,and Installation
Removal
Loosen the slave piston adjusting screw locknut and
remove the adjusting screw from the housing.
See Fig. 1.
Inspection
1. Inspect the slave piston adjusting screw. The
plunger should protrude from the bottom of the
screw. See Fig. 2. Approximately 12 lbs force
(53 N) is required to move the plunger. Make
sure the retaining pin is fully engaged in its 03/26/93 f010630
groove.
Fig. 1
WARNING
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are 
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may Auto−Lash
Adjusting Screw
manufacturer.
2. Clean the adjusting screw in an approved clean-
ing solvent, or replace the entire screw, as nec-
essary. The screw assembly is not serviceable in
the field.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not disassemble or tamper with PLUNGER
PROTRUSION
the slave piston adjusting screw assembly. En-
gine damage could result.
Installation 07/05/95 f010214
1. Screw the slave piston adjusting screw into the Fig. 2

housing.
2. Adjust it following the procedure in Subject 140.

Master Piston Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal Inspection
hicle. For instructions, refer to Subject 110.
WARNING
2. Remove the capscrew, washer, and master pis- WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are
ton spring from the bottom of the housing. toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may
See Fig. 1. be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the
3. Remove the master piston from its bore using manufacturer.
needle nose pliers to pull the piston out if neces-
sary. See Fig. 2. If the piston binds, check for 1. Clean the master piston in a solvent that meets
burrs or contaminants in the oil. OSHA guidelines.
2. Inspect the hard face surface. Pitted, chipped,
cracked, or galled pistons should be replaced.
3. If the hard facing is damaged, inspect the corre-
sponding rocker arm adjusting screws for exces-
sive wear or pitting. Replace any damaged com-
ponents.
Installation
1. Assemble the parts in reverse order.
2. Tighten the capscrew 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). Make
sure the two spring tabs do not interfere with the
sides of the master piston central raised area.
03/26/93 f010631
See Fig. 3.
Fig. 1
NOTE: The tabs should

be equally spaced from
03/26/93 f010632 the raised piston area.
Fig. 2 03/25/93 f010633
Fig. 3

Checking the Engine Brake Housing Oil Pressure
Checking the Engine Brake 9. Allow the engine to return to low idle speed.
Housing Oil Pressure 10. Repeat the oil pressure checks in all the hous-
ings equipped with solenoid valves.
To properly troubleshoot the engine brake, the me- 11. Shut down the engine. Remove the control valve
chanic must know the supply oil pressure reading at covers and make sure the correct control valve
the engine brake housing. The oil pressure reading springs are used.
on the instrument panel gauge is not the same as at
the engine brake housings. 12. The full-flow oil pressure range for the model 430
is 15 to 80 psi (103 to 551 kPa). An overpres-
1. Make an oil pressure gauge adapter as follows: sure of 90 psi (621 kPa) can cause engine brake
1.1 Remove the metal cap from a used sole- malfunction. If the engine is not within specifica-
noid valve and press off the coil assem- tions, it should be examined by an authorized
bly. facility and repaired if necessary.
1.2 Using a hex wrench, remove the bottom

screw. Remove the internal components
from the valve, oil screen, and retainer.
1.3 Fill the four small holes directly below the
center O-ring with steel rod and braze
them. Install the bottom screw and braze
closed the hex hole and surrounding
screw area. Flats can be ground in the
sides of the valve so it can be tightened
with a wrench.
1.4 Clean the valve body and wire brush the
hole in the top of the body. A gauge with
a range of 0 to 100 psi (0 to 689 kPa) will
generally require a 1/8 NPT tap.
1.5 Install a hose in the adapter and install
the pressure gauge on the hose.
2. Using a 7/8-inch 12-point socket (or Jacobs
wrench 11494 on older-style solenoid valves),
remove the valve from the housing being
checked.
3. Insert the oil pressure gauge (from earlier step)
into the solenoid bore. The three solenoid seal
rings must be used on the solenoid adapter.
4. Start the engine and allow it to warm up.
5. Record the oil pressure readings at low idle
speed.
6. Increase the engine speed to 1000 rpm. Record
the pressure.
the pressure.
8. Increase the engine speed to high idle speed
and record the pressure.

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Chart
Problem—Engine Will Not Start
Possible Cause Remedy
Make sure the electrical current to the engine brake is off. If the solenoid
The solenoid valve is stuck in the "on"
valve stays "on" (cap down) with the current off, replace the solenoid
position.
valve.
Problem—Engine Brake Will Not Function

Look for a short circuit in the wiring. Replace any chafed wires. Check the
A circuit breaker is tripped. solenoid tab for signs of shorting; replace it if needed. Reset the circuit
breaker.
An electrical lead is open. Replace any broken wires.
WARNING
The dash switches, the clutch switch, or the WARNING: Do not touch the electrical connections when the engine
throttle switch is malfunctioning or out of brake system is energized. Touching the connections could possibly
adjustment. cause electrical shock.
Use a volt/ohmmeter to make sure there is electrical current at both
terminals of each switch. Adjust the switch if needed. If voltage will not
pass through the switch, replace it.
Determine the oil pressure at the engine brakes. Refer to Subject 170. If
The engine oil pressure is too low. the oil pressure is below specifications, repair the engine following the
manufacturer’s procedures.
Problem—Engine Brake Engages With the Switches Off

The solenoid valve center seal ring is
Remove the solenoid. Replace the center seal ring.
damaged.
The engine brake is incorrectly wired. Check the wiring against the Jacobs wiring diagram.
Problem—Engine Brake Weak or Slow to Engage

The lubricating oil is too cold and thick. Allow the engine to warm up before operating the Jake Brake.

Troubleshooting
WARNING
WARNING: Slave piston springs are under heavy compression.
The slave piston is adjusted incorrectly or is Remove the slave piston carefully when disassembly is necessary.
binding in its bore. Use either an arbor press or C-clamp. Failure to follow this procedure
could result in personal injury.
Adjust the slave piston. Make sure it responds smoothly to the adjusting
screw—loosen the jam nut and screw the adjusting screw through its full
range for full slave piston travel. Make sure the piston travels the full range
without binding or sticking.
The solenoid lower seal is damaged, allowing
Remove the solenoid valve and replace the lower seal ring.
oil to escape the housing.
The solenoid screen is clogged, stopping the
Remove the solenoid valve; clean or replace the screen.
supply of oil to the engine brake.
Inspect the master piston and bore for scoring or burrs. If any are present,
clean the surface with crocus cloth. If the burrs cannot be removed,
The master piston is not moving in its bore. replace the piston or housing. Inspect the lubricating oil for signs of
contaminates. If any are present, replace the oil and filters, and correct the
cause of the contamination.
Remove each control valve. If the body is scored, replace the valve. Check
The control valves are binding in the housing
for contaminants in the lubricating oil. Clean the housing and control valve.
bores.
If it still binds, replace the housing.
WARNING
WARNING: To prevent skin irritation, wear chemical resistant gloves
when working with diesel fuel or kerosene. Also, do not expose these
The control valves are malfunctioning. fluids to flames or heat exceeding 100°F (38°C); both are
combustible, and could cause personal injury if ignited.
Remove each control valve. Make sure the check ball is seating in the
bore and that it can be moved off the seat. Make sure there is spring
pressure against the ball. Flush the valve in diesel fuel.
Replace the control valve if needed.
Dash switches, clutch switch, or throttle switch Adjust or replace the switch. Check the throttle or clutch return springs for
has sluggish operation. proper operation.

Troubleshooting
WARNING
WARNING: Do not touch the electrical connections when the engine
brake system is energized. Touching the connections could possibly
cause electrical shock.
The electrical insulation of the solenoid valve Make sure the solenoid valve meets electrical specifications.
is breaking down. See "Specifications, 400." If not, replace the solenoid valve.
Alternate procedure: With ignition key on, brake switches on, and engine
off, activate the solenoid electrically. Make sure the solenoid cap
depresses. Leave it electrically depressed for 20 to 30 minutes. Slip a
fingernail beneath the cap and try to pull it up.
If the cap can be raised, replace the solenoid.
Check the plugs for signs of leaks. If leaks are found, remove the plugs,
The engine brake housing plugs are leaking. clean the threads, and install the plugs. Thread locking compound may
help. Tighten the plugs 115 lbf·in (1300 N·cm).
The outer control valve spring is broken, or Replace the outer control valve spring. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s
the engine oil pressure is extremely high. service manual for causes of high oil pressure.
The upper solenoid seal ring is damaged,
causing oil pressure to drop below the Remove the solenoid. Inspect the seal ring and replace it if needed.
minimum required for engine brake operation.
The oil supply seals under or between the
housings are damaged, causing oil pressure Remove the housings and replace the seals. Check for cracked or broken
to drop below the minimum required for oil connectors. Replace the seals.
engine brake operation.
Check for aeration of the oil. Turn the engine brake on, then off. Watch the
escape oil coming from under the control valve cover. If the oil has
There is air in the lubricating oil, causing oil
bubbles or is foamy, air is present in the system. Aeration can be caused
pressure to drop below the minimum required
by an over-or underfilled crankcase, by cracks in the oil pickup tube, or by
for engine brake operation.
leaks in the oil suction tube or hose. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s
service manual for corrective measures.
The lubricating oil is being diluted by diesel
Have the lubricating oil analyzed to determine if fuel is present. Refer to
fuel, causing oil pressure to drop below the
the engine manufacturer’s service manual for corrective measures.
The engine oil is low, causing oil pressure to
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service manual for specifications. Add
drop below the minimum required for engine
oil or recalibrate the dipstick as required.
brake operation.
The engine rocker arm bushings are worn,
Replace the bushings. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service manual
causing oil pressure to drop below the
for instructions.
Oil is leaking around the cylinder heads,
Repair the cause of the leaks. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service
Restrictions in the oil passage leading to the
engine brake are causing oil pressure to drop
Inspect all the passageways; remove anything restricting the oil flow.
below the minimum required for engine brake
operation.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Engine Stalls or One or More Cylinders Continue Braking With the Dash Switches Off
The control valve inner spring is broken. Replace the inner spring.
One or more control valves are stuck in the Check the control valves for binding. Remove and clean or replace them if
"on" (up) position. necessary. Inspect the lubrication oil for contaminants.
The solenoid valve is sticking in the "on" If the solenoid valve cap remains down with no electric current being
position. supplied, replace the solenoid valve.
The center solenoid seal ring is damaged,
allowing oil to enter the engine brake with the Remove the solenoid and replace the seal ring.
solenoid valve closed.
The solenoid valve exhaust is plugged. Remove any restrictions at the exhaust (bottom) of the solenoid valve.
The clutch switch or the throttle switch is
stuck in the "on" position or is out of Check for correct switch operation. Adjust or replace the switch as needed.
adjustment.
Problem—Engine Misses or Loses Power

The slave piston is adjusted too tight. Adjust the slave piston. Refer to Subject 140.
Pass a 0.020 inch (0.5 mm) wire gauge between the back section of the
There is not enough clearance between the crosshead and the underside of the rocker lever. If there is not 0.020 inch
exhaust crosshead and the underside of the (0.5 mm) clearance, change the crosshead with another cylinder and
exhaust rocker arm. measure it again. If there is still not enough clearance, check for a bent
crosshead guide pin or an enlarged rocker arm. Replace parts as needed.
Check for overtightening of the locknut. Tighten 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m)
The Auto-Lash plunger is in the fully extended
maximum. If the plunger remains in the extended position, replace the
position.
Auto-Lash screw.
Problem— Sudden Drop in Engine Lubrication Oil Pressure

The oil inlet supply seal is missing or
Replace the seal.
damaged.
The upper solenoid valve seal is missing or
Remove the solenoid and replace the upper seal ring.
damaged.
The external oil supply hoses or fittings are
Inspect all hoses and fittings for tightness, chafing, or cuts.
cracked and leaking.

Specifications
Torque Values
Component Torque lbf·ft (N·m)
Exhaust Valve Crosshead Adjusting Screw Locknuts 25 (35)
Rocker Housing Studs 70 (95)
Engine Brake Holddown Nuts 60 (80)
Slave Piston Adjusting Screw Locknuts 25 (35)
Rocker Lever Adjusting Screw Locknuts 45 (60)
Slave Piston Clearance Settings

Clearance
Feeler Gauge Part
Engine Timing Setting
Number
(inches)
Fixed Timing (FT) 0.024 016560
Step Timing Housing no. 014878 0.040 016704
Control (STC) Housing no. 016007 0.046 016683
Electronically Controled Injection (ECI) 0.030 015877
Table 2, Slave Piston Clearance Settings
Solenoid Valve Electrical Specifications

Hot 180° to 220°F (82°
Description Cold 70°F (21°C)
to 104°C)
Resistance (Ohms) 9.75 to 10.75 11.8 to 14.3
Current Draw (Amps) 1.23 to 1.12 1.02 to 0.84
Minimum Pull-In Voltage 7.5 8.5
Table 3, Solenoid Valve Electrical Specifications

Jacobs® Engine Brake, Model C-317 01.13
General Description and 4. High-pressure oil causes the slave piston to

move down, momentarily opening the exhaust
Principles of Operation valve, while the engine piston is near its top
dead center position, releasing compressed cyl-
Jacobs engine brake housings are installed on the inder air to the exhaust manifold.
engine rocker housings. Model C-317 (used on Cat-
erpillar 3176 engines) has three engine brake hous- 5. Near the end of the slave piston travel the slave
ings that operate two cylinders each. Each engine piston separates from the clip valve located in
brake housing has a solenoid valve, control valves, the adjusting screw, uncovering the hole in the
master pistons, slave pistons, and lash adjusting center of the slave piston. The oil then flows to
screws. See Fig. 1. the bottom of the control valve. The clip valve
has two functions:
The engine brake electronic control is designed to
interface with the Caterpillar 3176 electronic control • Its plunger protrusion limits the slave piston
through a pulse width modulated signal. The dash travel.
switches or optional dash module enables the driver • It permits the slave piston to retract from
to operate the engine brake partially or fully. Self di- the bridge pin, allowing the bridge to be
agnostics are provided for the solenoids, the installa- "balanced" for the normal exhaust valve
tion wiring, and the pulse width modulated signal cycle.
when the optional dash module is installed.
6. Compressed air escapes to the atmosphere
The Model C-317 engine brake can be operated at completing a compression braking cycle.
one-third, two-thirds, or full capacity (two, four, or six
cylinders).
producing diesel engine to a power-absorbing air
through a master/slave piston arrangement which
compressed cylinder charge to the exhaust system.
The blowdown of compressed air to atmospheric
pressure prevents the return of energy to the engine
piston on the expansion (power) stroke. This results
in a net energy loss because the work done in com-
pressing the cylinder charge is not returned during
the expansion process. Exhaust blowdown occurs as
follows (see Fig. 2):
down, coming to rest on the injector rocker arm.
3. The injector rocker arm begins its travel as in the
normal injection cycle, forcing the master piston
upward and creating a high-pressure oil flow to
the slave piston. The ball check valve in the con-
trol valve holds the high-pressure oil in the
master/slave piston system.

01.13 Jacobs® Engine Brake, Model C-317
1. Control Valve
2. Solenoid Valve
3. Lash Adjusting Screw
(Clip−Valve Assembly)
4. Master Piston Assembly
5. Slave Piston
03/30/93 f010541
Fig. 1, Exploded View (Model C-317 Housing Assembly)

1. Lash Adjusting Screw

1 (Clip Valve)
2. Solenoid Valve
3 3. Control Valve
4. Master Piston
5. Injector Rocker Arm
4 6. Exhaust Valves
7. Screw and Pin Assembly
8 8. Slave Piston
7 5
6 6
03/29/93 f010518
Fig. 2, Model C-317 Operating Diagram

Switch and Control Module Replacement
Dash Switch (or Dash Module)

Replacement
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for the engine brake wiring
diagram.
1. Park the vehicle and disconnect the batteries.
to the dash. Lift the panel to a serviceable level.
3. Remove the cap nut on the switches. Remove
the switches. If the optional dash module is
used, remove the two nuts and the bracket from
the back of the dash module.
4. Mark the wires for later reference, then discon-
nect them from the switches. If the dash module
is used, disconnect the ribbon cable from the
module.
5. Connect the wires to the new switches as previ-
ously marked. If the dash module is used, con-
nect the ribbon cable to the module.
6. Install the switches (or dash module) through the
rear of the panel, and attach it with the cap nut
(or the bracket and nuts).
7. Place the panel in the dash, and attach it with
the screws.
8. Connect the batteries.
Control Module Replacement

To replace the control module, disconnect the two
wiring harnesses. If the optional dash module is
used, disconnect the ribbon cable harness. Remove
the two control module mounting screws. Mount the
new control module and connect the harnesses.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not allow the control module to
hang unmounted or tie wrapped behind the dash.
The control module will be stressed and could
malfunction.

015684
to circuit HARNESS
breaker or 015683
key switch HARNESS
121 RED
GROUND GREEN
ORANGE DK BLUE
Orange wire BROWN YELLOW
not used. PURPLE
Insulate end. GRAY WEATHER PACK
CONNECTOR
C776
WEATHER PACK 017258

to 3176 CONNECTOR CONTROL 121C
electronic
control
MODULE 121D
module
connector P−8
SOLENOID
121C
121D
terminal C
VALVES
121A
4
CYL
2
CYL
FRONT CENTER REAR
DASH
SWITCHES
03/29/93 f010149
Fig. 1

Removal
WARNING
WARNING: To avoid personal injury, never re-
move any engine brake component with the en-
gine running.
move the rocker housing cover capscrews; re-
move the cover and gasket from each spacer.
3. Remove the bolts (Fig. 1, Ref. 2) and the hold-
down nuts (Ref. 1).
4. Remove the engine brake housing.
Installation
1. Position the engine brake housings on the rocker
arm supports.
2. Install the Jacobs hold-down nuts on the exten-
sion studs. Do not tighten the nuts at this time.
3. Install the bolts through the housing into the
head bolt extension (one per housing). Do not
tighten the bolts at this time.
4. Make sure the slave piston foot is aligned
squarely over the bridge screw and pin assembly
to ensure full contact with the exhaust valve
stem. See Fig. 2. Reposition the housing if nec-
essary.
5. Tighten the hold-down nuts 83 lbf·ft (112 N·m).
See Fig. 1, Ref. 1.
6. Tighten the bolts 41 lbf·ft (55 N·m). See Fig. 1,
Ref. 2.
7. Adjust the slave piston lash to 0.045 inch (1.1
mm).
8. Using a new gasket, install the rocker housing
cover. Tighten the capscrews 62 lbf·in (700
N·cm).

1 1 1 1 1 1
2 2 2
1. Hold−Down Nuts 2. Bolts

03/29/93 f010537
Fig. 1, Removal of Hold-Down Nuts, and Bolts
SLAVE PISTON
FOOT
SCREW AND PIN

ASSEMBLY
03/29/93 f010531
Fig. 2, Slave Piston Foot Alignment

Control Valve Removal, Inspection, and
Installation
Removal
WARNING
WARNING: The control valve covers are under
load from the control valve springs. Remove the
covers carefully to avoid personal injury.
1. Apply pressure on the control valve cover and
rotate the retaining ring ears to the slot in the
housing. Remove the ring using retaining ring
pliers. See Fig. 1.
2. Slowly remove the cover until the spring pres-
pf01_0523
sure is released. Remove the control valve
springs, the insert, and the collar. See Fig. 2. Fig. 1
3. Using needle-nose pliers, reach into the bore
and grasp the stem of the control valve. Remove
the control valve. See Fig. 3. 1 3
Inspection 1. Retaining Ring

2. Control Valve Cover
2
3. Insert 4
WARNING 4. Springs
5. Collar
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may 5
safety precautions recommended by the solvent 03/29/93 f010251
1. Wash the control valves in a cleaning solvent
that meets OSHA guidelines.
2. Push a wire into the hole in the base of the valve
far enough to ensure that the ball check is free.
The ball should lift with light pressure on the
wire.
control valve bore in each housing.
5. Dip the control valves in clean lubricating oil.
Holding the valve by the stem, let the valve drop
into its bore. If it binds or if the ball is stuck in
the valve, replace the control valve.
03/29/93 f010252
Installation Fig. 3
1. Assemble the parts by reversing the removal

procedure.

Installation
CAUTION
CAUTION: Be sure the control valve collar is in-
stalled with the longer sleeve area up. See Fig. 2
and Fig. 4. If the collar is installed upside down,
engine damage may result.
2. Rotate the retaining ring so that the ears are lo-
cated away from the slot in the housing.
See Fig. 5.
pf01_0253
Fig. 4
pf01_0526
Fig. 5

Solenoid Valve Removal, Inspection,and
Installation
Removal
1. Disconnect the solenoid harness. Using a 7/8-
inch socket and extension, unscrew the solenoid
valve. See Fig. 1.
CAUTION
of the housing solenoid bore, remove it with a pf01_0522
piece of wire.
Fig. 1
Inspection
WARNING
manufacturer.
UPPER SEAL RING
1. Wash out the solenoid valve with a cleaning sol-
vent that meets OSHA guidelines. Use a brush to CENTER SEAL RING
clean the oil screen. When clean, dry the valve LOWER SEAL RING
with compressed air.
pf01_0256
2. Clean out the solenoid valve bore in the housing.
Use clean paper towels. Never use rags, since
they may leave lint and residue, which can plug Fig. 2
Installation
1. Coat a set of new solenoid seal rings with clean
lubricating oil.
2. Install the upper and center seal rings on the so-
lenoid body. Install the lower seal ring into the
bottom of the solenoid bore in the housing.
3. Make sure the seals are seated properly. Being
careful not to twist or unseat the seals, screw the
solenoid into the housing. Tighten the valve 680
N·cm (60 lbf·in).

Slave Piston Removal, Inspection,
Installation,and Adjusting
Removal Inspection
WARNING WARNING
WARNING: Wear safety glasses and remove the WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are
slave piston carefully. The slave piston is held in toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may
by springs that are under heavy compression. If be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the
the instructions below are not followed and safety precautions recommended by the solvent
proper tools are not used, the springs will be dis- manufacturer.
charged with enough force to cause personal in-
Make sure there is no binding or burrs. Clean all
jury.
parts in a cleaning solvent that meets OSHA guide-
1. Remove the locknut on the slave piston adjusting lines, or replace them as necessary.
screw. Back out the adjusting screw until the
slave piston is fully retracted (screw is loose).
See Fig. 1.
2. Place the hole in the clamp fixture over the slave
piston adjusting screw.
3. While holding the fixture in position, screw the
holder down over the slave piston until the spring
retainer is contacted.
4. Turn the handle slowly until the retainer is de-
pressed about 1/32 inch (1 mm), relieving pres-
sure against the retaining ring.
5. Using retaining ring pliers, remove the retaining
ring. See Fig. 2. Back out the holder until the
springs are loose. Remove the fixture. f010520
6. Remove all components. See Fig. 3. Fig. 2
1 2
3
3
1
12/12/94 f010519a
12/12/94 f010521a
Fig. 3
Fig. 1
Installation
1. Assemble all components in the proper order.

Slave Piston Removal, Inspection,
Installation,and Adjusting
2. Using the clamp fixture, install the piston and

springs. Be sure the retaining ring is placed on
the retainer before screwing the clamp holder
down over the slave piston. 1
3. Compress the slave piston springs until the re-
tainer is about 1/32 inch (1 mm) below the re-
taining ring groove. Install the retaining ring.
Make sure the retaining ring is fully seated in the
groove.
4. Remove the clamp fixture slowly to ensure
proper seating of the retaining ring.
Adjusting
NOTE: Adjust the slave pistons with the engine
stopped and cold. The exhaust valves must be
closed on the cylinder to be adjusted.
1. Rotate the engine until piston no. 1 is at top
dead center of the compression stroke. 2
2. Adjust the slave piston clearance for cylinders 1,
3, and 5 as follows: 12/12/94 f010532a
2.1 Insert a 0.045-inch feeler gauge between Fig. 4

the slave piston and the actuating pin in
the bridge adjusting screw. See Fig. 4.
2.2 Turn the slave piston adjusting screw
clockwise until there is a slight drag on the
feeler gauge.
2.3 While holding the adjusting screw in this
position, tighten the locknut 35 N·m (26
lbf·ft).
3. Rotate the engine 360 degrees so that piston no.
6 is at top dead center of the compression
stroke.
4. Adjust the slave piston clearance for cylinders 2,
4, and 6, following the procedure in the substeps
above.

Slave Piston Adjusting Screw (Clip Valve)
Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal
Inspection
WARNING
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the Clip Valve Reset Auto−Lash R
safety precautions recommended by the solvent f010535
manufacturer.
Fig. 1
1. Clean the adjusting screws in a solvent that
meets OSHA guidelines.
2. Inspect the adjusting screws. The plunger should
protrude from the bottom of the screw, should
have light spring pressure when depressed, and
should move freely. If any defect is found, re-
place the entire screw assembly.
CAUTION
the slave piston adjusting screw assembly. En-
gine damage could result.
Installation
CAUTION
CAUTION: Use only Jacobs clip valve assem-
blies ( see Fig. 1) in the Model C-317 housings.
Use of any other type of adjusting screw assem-
bly will cause engine and engine brake damage.
NOTE: The part number for the clip valve, and
other assemblies, is located at the top of the
screw next to the screwdriver slot.
1. Screw the slave piston adjusting screw into the
housing.
2. Tighten the locknut 26 lbf·ft (35 N·m).

Master Piston Removal, Inspection, and
Installation
Removal (See Fig. 1) Installation

MASTER PISTON 1. Using a pick or probe, compress the return
ASSEMBLY spring. While holding the spring compressed,
insert a small diameter pin into the access hole
and remove the probe. See Fig. 3.
ANTI−ROTATION PROBE
PIN
PIN
LOCKWASHER
pf01_0528
Fig. 1
pf01_0529
Fig. 3
2. Insert the master piston into the housing bore.

See Fig. 4.
pf01_0530
Fig. 2
1. Remove the anti-rotation pin assembly and lock-

washer from the housing.
2. Remove the master piston assembly.
NOTE: The master piston return spring is con- pf01_0527
tained inside the master piston. See Fig. 2. Do
not disassemble the master piston assembly in Fig. 4
the field.
3. Install the anti-rotation pin in the housing to-
gether with the lockwasher. Remove the long,
Inspection narrow pin so that the spring is retained by the
anti-rotation pin.
Inspect the master piston for damage. The piston 4. Using a 3/16-inch hex key wrench, tighten the
surface must be free of score or wear marks, and anti-rotation pin. Move the piston in and out to be
must move freely in the housing bore. Inspect the sure it moves freely and that the spring returns
spring to make sure it is not broken. the piston to the bottom of the bore.

Checking 10. Repeat the oil pressure checks in all the hous-
To properly troubleshoot the engine brake, the me- 11. Shut down the engine. Remove the control valve
chanic must know the supply oil pressure reading at covers and make sure the correct control valve
the engine brake housing. The oil pressure reading springs are used.
on the instrument panel gauge is not the same as at
12. The full-flow oil pressure range for the Model
the engine brake housings.
C-317 is 25 to 56 psi (172 to 386 kPa). An over-
1. Make an oil pressure gauge adapter as follows: pressure of 78 psi (538 kPa) can cause engine
brake malfunction. If the engine is not within
1.1 Remove the metal cap from a used sole-
specifications, have it examined by an authorized
noid valve and press off the coil assembly.
facility and repaired if necessary.
from the valve and the oil screen and re-
tainer.
1.3 Insert steel rods in the four small holes
directly below the center O-ring, and braze
screw area. Flats can be ground in the
sides of the valve so it can be tightened
with a wrench.
1.4 Clean the valve body and wire-brush the
hole in the top of the body. A gauge with a
range of 0 to 100 psi (0 to 689 kPa) will
1.5 Install a hose in the adapter and install the
pressure gauge on the hose.
2. Using a 7/8-inch 12-point socket (or Jacobs
wrench 11494 on older-style solenoid valves),
remove the valve from the housing being
checked.
speed.
the pressure.
the pressure.
9. Allow the engine to return to low idle speed.

Troubleshooting
Make sure the electrical current to the engine brake is off. If the solenoid
The solenoid valve is stuck in the "on"
valve stays "on" (cap down) with the current off, replace the solenoid
position.
valve.

Look for a short circuit in the wiring. Replace any chafed wires. Check the
A circuit breaker is tripped. solenoid tab for signs of shorting; replace it if needed. The circuit breaker
resets automatically after the short is repaired.
WARNING
The dash switches are malfunctioning or out WARNING: Do not touch the electrical connections when the engine
of adjustment. brake system is energized. Touching the connections could possibly
Determine the oil pressure at the engine brakes. Refer to Subject 170. If
The engine oil pressure is too low. the oil pressure is below specifications, repair the engine following the

The solenoid valve center seal ring is
Remove the solenoid. Replace the center seal ring.
damaged.


Troubleshooting
WARNING
The slave piston is adjusted incorrectly or is Remove the slave piston carefully when disassembly is necessary.
binding in its bore. Use either an arbor press or C-clamp. Failure to follow this procedure
screw— loosen the jam nut and screw the adjusting screw through its full
The solenoid lower seal is damaged, allowing
Remove the solenoid valve and replace the lower seal ring.
The solenoid screen is clogged, stopping the
Remove the solenoid valve; clean or replace the screen.
Inspect the master piston and bore for scoring or burrs. If any are present,
clean the surface with a crocus cloth. If the burrs cannot be removed,
The master piston is not moving in its bore. replace the piston or housing. Inspect the lubricating oil for signs of
contaminants. If any are present, replace the oil and filters, and correct the
Remove each control valve. If the body is scored, replace the valve. Check
The control valves are binding in the housing
for contaminants in the lubricating oil. Clean the housing and control valve.
bores.
WARNING
The control valves are malfunctioning. fluids to flames or heat exceeding 100°F (38°C); both are
Adjust or replace the switch. Check the throttle or clutch return springs for
Dash switches have sluggish operation.
proper operation.

Troubleshooting
WARNING
The electrical insulation of the solenoid valve Make sure the solenoid valve meets electrical specifications.
is breaking down. See "Specifications, 400." If not, replace the solenoid valve.
Check the plugs for signs of leaks. If leaks are found, remove the plugs,
The engine brake housing plugs are leaking. clean the threads, and install the plugs. Thread locking compound may
The upper solenoid seal ring is damaged,
causing oil pressure to drop below the Remove the solenoid. Inspect the seal ring and replace it if needed.
The oil supply seals under or between the
housings are damaged, causing oil pressure Remove the housings and replace the seals. Check for cracked or broken
to drop below the minimum required for oil connectors. Replace the seals.
Check for aeration of the oil. Turn the engine brake on, then off. Watch the
escape oil coming from under the control valve cover. If the oil has
There is air in the lubricating oil, causing oil
bubbles or is foamy, air is present in the system. Aeration can be caused
pressure to drop below the minimum required
for engine brake operation.
The lubricating oil is being diluted by diesel
Have the lubricating oil analyzed to determine if fuel is present. Refer to
fuel, causing oil pressure to drop below the
the engine manufacturer’s service manual for corrective measures.
The engine oil is low, causing oil pressure to
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service manual for specifications. Add
drop below the minimum required for engine
oil or recalibrate the dipstick as required.
brake operation.
The engine rocker arm bushings are worn,
Replace the bushings. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service manual
for instructions.
Oil is leaking around the cylinder heads,
Repair the cause of the leaks. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service
Restrictions in the oil passage leading to the
Inspect all the passageways; remove anything restricting the oil flow.
operation.

Troubleshooting
The center solenoid seal ring is damaged,
allowing oil to enter the engine brake with the Remove the solenoid and replace the seal ring.
The clutch switch or the throttle switch is
stuck in the "on" position or is out of Check for correct switch operation. Adjust or replace the switch as needed.
adjustment.

Pass a 0.020 inch (0.5 mm) wire gauge between the back section of the
There is not enough clearance between the crosshead and the underside of the rocker lever. If there is not 0.020 inch
exhaust crosshead and the underside of the (0.5 mm) clearance, change the crosshead with another cylinder and
exhaust rocker arm. measure it again. If there is still not enough clearance, check for a bent
crosshead guide pin or an enlarged rocker arm. Replace parts as needed.

The oil inlet supply seal is missing or
Replace the seal.
damaged.
The upper solenoid valve seal is missing or
Remove the solenoid and replace the upper seal ring.
damaged.
The external oil supply hoses or fittings are
Inspect all hoses and fittings for tightness, chafing, or cuts.

Specifications
See Fig. 1 for a wiring diagram.
Torque Values
Torque
Component
lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·in (N·cm)
Cylinder Head Stud 203 (275) —
Valve Bridge Adjusting Screw Locknut 18 (25) —
Exhaust Rocker Arm Adjusting Screw Locknut 18 (25) —
Injector Rocker Arm Adjusting Screw 41 (55) —
Cylinder Head Bolt Extension 70 (95) —
Extended Studs 32 (44) —
Housing Hold-Down Nuts 83 (112) —
Housing Hold-Down Bolts 41 (55) —
Slave Piston Adjusting Screw Locknut 26 (35) —
Spacer Bolts — 60 (680)
Solenoid Valve — 60 (680)

Hot 180°to 220°F (82°to
104° C)

Specifications
015684
to circuit HARNESS
breaker or 015683
key switch HARNESS
121 RED
GROUND GREEN
ORANGE DK BLUE
Orange wire BROWN YELLOW
not used. PURPLE
Insulate end. GRAY WEATHER PACK
CONNECTOR
C776
WEATHER PACK 017258

to 3176 CONNECTOR CONTROL 121C
electronic
control
MODULE 121D
module
connector P−8
SOLENOID
121C
121D
terminal C
VALVES
121A
4
CYL
2
CYL
FRONT CENTER REAR
DASH
SWITCHES
03/29/93 f010149
Fig. 1, Wiring Diagram

General Description flow to the slave piston. The ball check valve in
the control valve holds the high-pressure oil in
the master-slave piston system.
engine rocker housings. Model 760 (used on Detroit 4. When the engine piston is near top dead center,
Diesel Series 60 12.7 liter engines) has three engine the slave piston moves down under the influence
brake housings that operate two cylinders each. of the high-pressure oil flow. This momentarily
Each engine brake housing has a solenoid valve, opens the exhaust valves, releasing compressed
control valves, ball check valves, master pistons, and cylinder air to the exhaust manifold.
slave pistons. See Fig. 1. 5. At the bottom of its stroke the slave piston sepa-
Engine brake controls consist of: dash switches rates from the valve in the slave piston reset ad-
(Fig. 2) and a clutch switch. The clutch switch is justing screw, allowing high-pressure oil to flow
mounted under the dash for Conventionals (Fig. 3 or into the accumulator. This reduces the pressure
Fig. 4), or under the cab for COEs (Fig. 5). The en- in the high-pressure circuit, permitting the slave
gine brake is activated when the dash switches are piston to retract and the exhaust valves to close
on and the clutch and throttle pedals are released. in preparation for the normal exhaust valve cycle.
The dash switches enable the driver to operate the The oil pressure reserved in the accumulator en-
engine brake partially or fully. Vehicles equipped with sures that the hydraulic circuit is fully charged for
an Allison automatic transmission do not use the the next cycle.
clutch switch. 6. Compressed air escapes to the atmosphere
The Model 760 engine brake can be operated at completing a compression braking cycle.
one-third, two-thirds, or full capacity (two, four, or six
cylinders).
producing diesel engine to a power-absorbing air
prevents the return of energy to the engine piston on
the expansion (power) stroke. This results in a net
energy loss because the work done in compressing
sion process. Exhaust blowdown occurs as follows
(see Fig. 6):
down, coming to rest on the injector rocker arm
roller.
3. The injector rocker arm begins upward travel (as
in the normal injection cycle) forcing the master
piston upward and creating a high-pressure oil

3
1 4
A
5
07/05/95 f010414a
A. Front Underside of Housing 4. Slave Piston Adjusting Screw 6. Bridge
1. Control Valve (Reset) 7. Master Piston
2. Solenoid Valve 5. Slave Piston 8. Ball Check Valve
3. Accumulator Piston
Fig. 1, Exploded View, Model 760 Housing Assembly

f600164
09/20/93 f250118
1. Clutch Switch 2. Clutch Pedal Shaft
Fig. 4, Arm-Type Clutch Switch

2
11/06/92 f010107
Fig. 5
09/20/93 f250158
1. Clutch Pedal Shaft 2. Clutch Switch
Fig. 3, Plunger-Type Clutch Switch

A
2
9
7
3
4
6
5 5
06/29/95 f010415
A. Oil In 4. Injector Pin and Roller 8. Slave Piston Adjusting Screw
1. Solenoid Valve 5. Exhaust Valve (Reset)
2. Control Valve 6. Slave Piston Assembly 9. Accumulator
3. Master Piston 7. Leveling Screw
Fig. 6

Dash Switch Replacement 1. Park the vehicle and disconnect the battery.
NOTE: See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 for the applicable to the dash. Lift the panel to a serviceable level.
engine brake wiring diagram.
1
A 16
21
10
2 11 14
9
12
18 23
4 2 CYL’S 4 CYL’S 22
15
3
13 17 19
5 24
6 20
7
8
09/23/93 f540645
Fig. 1, Jake Brake With Cruise Control
9
17
2 10
8
4 11 14 18
2 CYL’S 13 4 CYL’S 19
3
5 12 15 20
6
7 16
09/23/93 f540646
Fig. 2, Jake Brake Without Cruise Control

3. Remove the switch cap nut, and remove the

switch from the panel.
1
4. Mark the wires for later reference, then discon- 2
nect them from the switch.
5. Connect the wires to the new switch, as previ-
ously marked.
3
6. Install the switch through the rear of the panel,
and attach it with the cap nut.
7. Place the panel in the dash, and attach it with
the screws.
8. Connect the battery. 1 to 1−1/2 in
(25 to 38 mm)
Clutch Switch Replacement

NOTE: See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 for the applicable
engine brake wiring diagram.
1. Set the parking brake, then chock the tires.
4
2. Mark the wires for later reference; disconnect
them from the clutch switch at the top of the
clutch pedal shaft. 09/20/93 f250119
3. Remove the nuts, washers, and screws that at- 1. Panhead Screw, Washer, Nut
tach the switch to the mounting bracket. Remove 2. Clutch Switch
the switch. 3. Mounting Bracket
4. Place the new switch on the bracket, and loosely
install the screws, washers, and nuts. See Fig. 3, Arm-Type Clutch Switch (FLD Conventional
Fig. 3, Fig. 4, or Fig. 5. shown)
Adjust the plunger-type switch side-to-side so mounting screws. Mount the new control module,
that the center of the plunger contacts the center install and tighten the screws, and connect the har-
of the clutch lever rib. Add or remove starwash- nesses.
ers as shown in Fig. 6 to adjust the plunger
travel. Tighten the switch mounting nuts securely.
CAUTION
On the arm-type switch, the switch arm should
deflect 1 to 1-1/2 inches (25 to 38 mm) when the Do not allow the control module to hang un-
clutch is engaged. See Fig. 3. Tighten the switch mounted or merely tie-wrapped behind the dash.
mounting nuts securely. The control module will be stressed and could
malfunction.
marked.
Control Module Replacement

To replace the control module, disconnect the two
wiring harnesses. Remove the two control module

11/06/92 f010107
3
1
09/20/93 f250120
1. Clutch Switch
2. Mounting Bracket
3
Fig. 4, Plunger-Type Clutch Switch (FLD Conventional
shown)
09/20/93 f250161
1. Mounting Bracket
2. Switch
3. Starwashers
Fig. 6

NOTE: The Model 760 engine brake has been

designed to fit on the Series 60 engine with no 1
additional valve cover spacers. On engines
equipped with aluminum valve cover caps
(Fig. 1 and Fig. 2), it is not necessary to re-
move the valve cover bases to remove and in-
stall the engine brake housings.
Removal 2
1. Remove each valve cover and gasket. 07/10/95 f010417

1. Valve Cover Cap — Aluminum Style 2
2. Remove the engine brake housing hold-down 2. Valve Cover Base
capscrews. There is one capscrew per housing
on the camshaft side of the engine. There are Fig. 2
two capscrews per housing on the exhaust mani-
fold side of the engine. 3. Apply "Never Seize" to the threads and under-
3. Remove the spacer bar between the exhaust side of the head of the housing hold-down cap-
side of each head and each engine brake hous- screws.
ing mounting pad. 4. Install the 4-3/4 inch (120 mm) long capscrews
4. Lift each engine brake housing off the rocker and their washers in each engine brake housing
shaft. on the exhaust manifold side. There are two cap-
screws per housing. See Fig. 5.
2 2
07/11/95 f010416
1. Valve Cover Cap — Aluminum Style 1 1
2. Valve Cover Base
09/20/93 f010418
Fig. 1 1. Rear
2. Exhaust Manifold
Installation
Fig. 3
1. Place the spacer bars between the cylinder head
and the engine brake mounting pads on the ex- 5. Install the 4-3/8 inch (110 mm) long capscrew
and its washer into each engine brake housing
haust manifold side of the head. See Fig. 3 and
Fig. 4. on the camshaft side. See Fig. 6. There is one
capscrew per housing.
2. Place each engine brake housing over the rocker
shaft with the solenoid valves toward the cam- 6. Before tightening the engine brake hold-down
shaft side of the engine. Make sure the housings capscrew, move the housing from side to side,
don’t interfere with the wiring harness. and then locate the housing in the center posi-
tion of the movement. See Fig. 7.

pf01_0419 pf01_0421
Fig. 4
Fig. 6
pf01_0420
pf01_0422
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
7. Tighten the engine brake housing hold-down
capscrews as follows:
7.1 Tighten the three capscrews on the cam-
shaft side of the engine 40 lbf·ft (55 N·m).
7.2 Tighten the six capscrews on the exhaust
manifold side of the engine 40 lbf·ft (55
N·m).
7.3 In the same sequence, tighten all cap-
8. Using plastic ties, secure the wiring harnesses to
the spacer bars.
9. Adjust the slave piston lash. For instructions re-
fer to Subject 140.
10. Install the valve covers. For instructions, refer to
the Detroit Diesel Engine service manual.

Installation
Removal
WARNING
WARNING: Never remove any engine brake com-
ponent with the engine running. Personal injury
may result.
1. Tilt the cab or open the hood. For instructions,
refer to the applicable driver’s manual.
move the capscrews from the valve cover; then,
remove the valve cover.
pf01_0423
3. Press down on the control valve cover to relieve
spring pressure. See Fig. 1. Fig. 1
4. Remove the retaining ring using retaining ring

pliers.
5. Slowly remove the cover until the spring pres-
sure is released; then, remove the two control
valve springs and the collar. See Fig. 2.
6. Using needle nose pliers, reach into the housing
bore and grasp the stem of the control valve.
Remove the control valve. See Fig. 3.
Inspection
WARNING pf01_0424
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are Fig. 2

manufacturer.
1. Wash the control valves with a cleaning solvent
that meets OSHA guidelines.
2. Push a wire through the hole in the base of the
valve to make sure the ball check is free. The
ball should lift with light pressure on the wire.
control valve bore in the housing. pf01_0425
5. Dip the control valves in clean lubricating oil.
Fig. 3
Holding the valve by the stem, let the valve drop
into its bore. If it binds or if the ball is stuck in
the valve, replace the control valve.

Installation
Installation
IMPORTANT: Be sure to coat all parts with
clean lubricating oil before installing them.
1. Install the control valve reversing the removal
procedure.
NOTE: Make sure the control valve collar is in-
stalled with the longer sleeve area up.
See Fig. 4. If the collar is installed upside down,
the engine brake cylinder will not operate.
2. Make sure the retaining ring ears are rotated 90
degrees after installation.
UP
pf01_0426
Fig. 4

Solenoid Valve Removal and Installation
Removal WARNING
1. Disconnect the solenoid harness. WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are
2. Using a 7/8-inch socket and extension, unscrew toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may
the solenoid valve. See Fig. 1. be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the
manufacturer.
4. Wash out the solenoid valve with a cleaning sol-
vent that meets OSHA guidlines. Use a brush to
clean the oil screen.
5. Dry the valve with compressed air.
6. Using clean paper towels, clean out the solenoid
valve bore in the housing. Do not use rags, since
they can leave lint and residue, which can plug
Installation
pf01_0427
1. Coat a new set of solenoid seal rings with clean
Fig. 1 lubricating oil. Install the upper and middle seal
rings on the solenoid body and the lower seal
ring into the bottom of the solenoid bore in the
CAUTION housing. See Fig. 3.
of the solenoid bore in the housing, remove it
with a piece of wire.
2
3
09/20/93 f010256a
pf01_0428
1. Upper Seal Ring
2. Center Seal Ring Fig. 3
3. Lower Seal Ring
Fig. 2

Solenoid Valve Removal and Installation
2. Make sure the seals are seated properly and not

twisted. Carefully screw the solenoid into the
housing without unseating the seals.
3. Tighten the valve 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm).
4. Connect the solenoid harness.

Slave Piston Removal, Inspection, Installation,
and Adjusting
Removal Installation
1. Remove the engine brake housing from the ve- 1. Install the leveling screw in the bridge.
hicle using the instructions in Subject 110. See Fig. 3. Tighten the locknut 25 lbf·ft (35 N·m).
2. Remove the screw and spring that retain the 2. Install the slave piston and the bridge with the
slave piston assembly. See Fig. 1. leveling screw toward the center of the housing.
See Fig. 4.
3. Remove the bridge and the slave piston.
See Fig. 2.
4. Loosen the leveling screw locknut and remove
the leveling screw from the bridge. See Fig. 3.
pf01_0431
Fig. 3
pf01_0429
Fig. 1
pf01_0432
Fig. 4
3. Install the slave piston assembly retaining spring

with the ends over the bridge. See Fig. 5.
pf01_0430 4. Install the screw over the center part of the
spring. Tighten the screw 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Fig. 2
5. Install the engine brake housing on the engine
using the instructions in Subject 110.
Inspection
1. Inspect all components for excessive wear and
for damage.
2. Replace parts as needed.

and Adjusting
Adjusting
CAUTION
CAUTION: Follow the slave piston adjustment
procedure exactly. Failure to use the correct ad-
justment procedure will result in poor engine
brake performance and serious engine damage.
NOTE: Make the following adjustment with the
engine stopped and the oil temperature 140°F
(60°C) or lower. Rotate the engine until the ex-
haust valves on the cylinder to be adjusted are
pf01_0433
closed (rocker arm is loose).
1. Back out the leveling screw in the slave piston Fig. 5
assembly until the end of the screw is beneath
the surface of the bridge in the slave piston as-
sembly. See Fig. 6.
NOTE: The leveling screw is the screw located
in the bridge member of the slave piston assem-
bly.
2. Place the correct feeler gauge between the solid
side of the bridge (the side without the leveling
screw) and the exhaust rocker arm adjusting
screw. See Fig. 7. See Table 1 for the correct
feeler gauge.
NOTE: A "G" in position 5 of the model number
indicates a 12.7 liter engine; "W" indicates an pf01_0434
11.1 liter engine. Typical model numbers: Fig. 6
6067GU40 or 6067WU40. The model number is
stamped on the engine block beneath the intake
manifold. See Fig. 8.
3. Turn the slave piston adjusting screw clockwise
until a light drag is felt on the feeler gauge.
Engine Model (Displace- Feeler Gauge inches
ment) (mm)
12.7 liter 0.020 (0.5)
11.1 liter 0.040 (1.0)
Table 1
4. While holding the screw in this position, tighten

pf01_0435
the locknut 25 lbf·ft (35 N·m). See Fig. 9.
IMPORTANT: The slave piston adjusting screws Fig. 7
used in the Model 760 Engine Brake are reset
screws. Do not disassemble these reset screws 5. Following the same procedure, set 0.020-inch
in the field. (0.5-mm) clearance between the slave piston

and Adjusting
1
2
09/20/93 f010436
pf01_0438
1. Serial Number
2. Model Number Fig. 10
Fig. 8
leveling screw and the rocker arm adjusting

screw. See Fig. 10.
6. While holding the leveling screw in this position,
tighten the locknut 35 lbf·ft (47 N·m).
7. Repeat the steps above for slave pistons of the
remaining cylinders. Rotate the engine to close
the exhaust valves for the cylinder being ad-
justed.
pf01_0437
Fig. 9

Inspection, and Installation
Removal
See Fig. 1.
f010506
Fig. 2
Installation
CAUTION
pf01_0439 CAUTION: Do not use Auto-Lash® adjusting
screws or solid screws in Model 760 engine
Fig. 1
brakes. The Model 760 slave piston adjusting
screws (reset type) are not the same as those
Inspection used in other brake models. See Fig. 3. For
proper identification, refer to the Model 760 parts
WARNING manual. The part number is stamped on the top
of the adjusting screw. Using other than Jacobs-
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are recommended parts may result in engine dam-
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may age.
manufacturer. 2
1
1. Clean the adjusting screw in cleaning solvent.
2. Inspect the slave piston adjusting screw. The
plunger should protrude from the bottom of the
screw. There should be light spring pressure
when the plunger is depressed, and the plunger
should move freely. See Fig. 2 . If any defect is
found, replace the entire screw assembly.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not disassemble or tamper with 09/20/93 f010500a
the slave piston adjusting screw assembly. En- 1. Reset
gine damage could result. 2. Auto–Lash®
Fig. 3

1. Screw the slave piston adjusting screw into the

housing.
2. Tighten the locknut 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m).

Master Piston Removal, Inspection, and
Installation
Removal
2. Remove the screw, washer, and master piston
spring from the housing. See Fig. 1.
3. Using needle nose pliers if necessary, pull out
the master piston. See Fig. 2.
Inspection
WARNING pf01_0442
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are Fig. 1

manufacturer.
1. Clean the piston in a cleaning solvent that meets
OSHA guidelines.
2. Inspect the piston for excessive wear and for
damage. Replace the piston if necessary.
Installation
1. Install the master piston, spring, washer, and
screw in the housing. See Fig. 3. pf01_0443
NOTE: Make sure the spring legs are centered Fig. 2

around the master piston boss.
2. Tighten the screw 100 lbf·in (1120 N·cm).
3. Install the engine brake housing on the vehicle.
For instructions, refer to Subject 110.
pf01_0444
Fig. 3

Accumulator Removal, Inspection, and
Installation
Removal
WARNING
WARNING: The accumulator spring is under
strong compression. Be careful when removing
the retaining ring and cover. Wear safety glasses.
If the spring is accidentally released, personal
injury could result.
2. Push down on the accumulator cover and re-
pf01_0446
move the retaining ring. See Fig. 1.
3. Remove the cover and spring. See Fig. 2. Fig. 2
4. Using a magnet, remove the piston from the ac-

cumulator bore. See Fig. 3.
Inspection
Inspect the parts for wear and damage. Replace
parts as needed.
Installation
1. Install the piston, spring, cover, and retaining
ring.
2. Install the engine brake housing. For instructions, pf01_0447
refer to Subject 110. Fig. 3
pf01_0445
Fig. 1

Ball Check Valve Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the plug to remove the ball check valve
and spring. See Fig. 1.
2. Clean the ball and spring as needed.
Installation
1. Install the ball, spring, and plug, making sure the
ball does not bind.
2. Tighten the plug firmly.
07/05/95 f010448a
1. Ball Check Valve
Fig. 1, Front Underside of Housing

Master Piston Pin and Roller Removal,
NOTE: The injector rocker arm contains a pin

and roller for actuating the engine brake master
piston. If the roller is excessively worn or dam-
aged, replace the entire injector rocker arm.
Pins and rollers are not available as service
parts. Injector rocker arm assemblies are avail-
able from Detroit Diesel Corporation.
Removal
1. Remove the engine brake housings. For instruc-
tions, refer to Subject 110.
10/20/2000 f010450
2. Loosen the locknuts on the intake, exhaust, and
injector adjusting screws. Fig. 2
3. Remove the spacers, nuts, and bolts from the
rocker shafts. See Fig. 1.
10/20/2000 f010451
10/20/2000 f010449 Fig. 3
Fig. 1 1. Clean the rocker arms and rocker arm shafts in a

cleaning solvent that meets OSHA guidelines.
4. Lift off the rocker shaft assembly with the rocker Blow them dry with compressed air.
arms in place. See Fig. 2. 2. If the roller is excessively worn or damaged, re-
5. Slide the rocker arms off the shaft, marking the place the injector rocker arm.
parts so they may be installed later in the same
positions. See Fig. 3. Installation
Inspection 1. Assemble the rocker arms on the rocker shaft.
See Fig. 4.
WARNING 2. Check the torque on the rocker shaft studs to
make sure they were not loosened when the
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are nuts were removed. Tighten the studs 80 lbf·ft
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may (110 N·m). See Fig. 5.
safety precautions recommended by the solvent 3. Mount the rocker shaft to the head using the
manufacturer. bolts, end spacers, and nuts removed earlier.

Master Piston Pin and Roller Removal,
3 1 2 4 7 5 6 8
10/20/2000 f010452
Fig. 4
09/06/1996 f010454
Fig. 6
f010453
Fig. 5
Tighten the bolts and nuts 80 lbf·ft (110 N·m) in

the sequence shown in Fig. 6 .
4. Adjust the valve clearance and injector height.
Refer to the Detroit Diesel Engine service
5. Install the engine brake housing. For instructions,
refer to Subject 110.

Checking 11. Shut down the engine. Remove the control valve
covers and make sure the correct control valve
springs are used.
To properly troubleshoot the engine brake, the me-
chanic must know the supply oil pressure reading at 12. The full-flow oil pressure range for the Model 760
the engine brake housing. The oil pressure reading is 25 to 56 psi (172 to 386 kPa). Pressure over
on the instrument panel gauge is not the same as at 78 psi (538 kPa) can cause engine brake mal-
the engine brake housings. function. If the engine is not within specifications,
1. Make an oil pressure gauge adapter as follows: it should be examined by an authorized facility
and repaired if necessary.
1.1 Remove the tin cap from a used solenoid
valve and press off the coil assembly.
from the valve and the oil screen and re-
tainer.
1.3 Fill the four small holes directly below the
center O-ring with steel rod and braze
screw area.
1.4 Clean the valve body and wire brush the
hole in the top of the body. A gauge with a
range of 0 to 100 psi (0 to 689 kPa) will
1.5 Install a hose in the adapter and install the
pressure gauge on the hose. Flats can be
ground in the sides of the valve so it can
be tightened with a wrench.
2. Using Jacobs wrench 11494, remove the sole-
noid valve from the housing being checked.
speed.
the pressure.
the pressure.
9. Allow the engine to return to low idle speed.
10. Repeat the oil pressure checks in all the hous-

Troubleshooting
The solenoid valve is stuck in the "on" Make sure the electrical current to the engine brake is off. If the solenoid
position. valve stays "on" (cap down) with the current off, replace the solenoid
valve.

A circuit breaker is tripped. Look for a short circuit in the wiring. Replace any chafed wires. Check the
solenoid tab for signs of shorting; replace it if needed. Reset the circuit
breaker.
The dash switches, the clutch switch, or the
throttle switch is malfunctioning or out of
adjustment. WARNING
The engine oil pressure is too low. Determine the oil pressure at the engine brakes. Refer to Subject 200. If
the oil pressure is below specifications, repair the engine following the

The solenoid valve center seal ring is Remove the solenoid. Replace the center seal ring.
damaged.


Troubleshooting

The slave piston is adjusted incorrectly or is
binding in its bore.
WARNING
Remove the slave piston carefully when disassembly is necessary.
Use either an arbor press or C-clamp. Failure to follow this procedure
screw— loosen the jam nut and screw the adjusting screw through its full
The solenoid lower seal is damaged, allowing Remove the solenoid valve and replace the lower seal ring.
The solenoid screen is clogged, stopping the Remove the solenoid valve; clean or replace the screen.
The master piston is not moving in its bore. Inspect the master piston and bore for scoring or burrs. If any are present,
clean the surface with a crocus cloth. If the burrs cannot be removed,
replace the piston or housing. Inspect the lubricating oil for signs of
contaminants. If any are present, replace the oil and filters, and correct the
The control valves are binding in the housing Remove each control valve. If the body is scored, replace the valve. Check
bores. for contaminants in the lubricating oil. Clean the housing and control valve.
The control valves are malfunctioning.
WARNING
fluids to flames or heat exceeding 100°F (38°C); both are
Dash switches, clutch switch, or throttle switch Adjust or replace the switch. Check the throttle or clutch return springs for
has sluggish operation. proper operation.

Troubleshooting

The electrical insulation of the solenoid valve
is breaking down.
WARNING
Make sure the solenoid valve meets electrical specifications.
See "Specifications, 400."If not, replace the solenoid valve.
The engine brake housing plugs are leaking. Check the plugs for signs of leaks. If leaks are found, remove the plugs,
clean the threads, and install the plugs. Thread locking compound may
The upper solenoid seal ring is damaged, Remove the solenoid. Inspect the seal ring and replace it if needed.
The oil supply seals under or between the Remove the housings and replace the seals. Check for cracked or broken
housings are damaged, causing oil pressure oil connectors. Replace the seals.
to drop below the minimum required for
There is air in the lubricating oil, causing oil Check for aeration of the oil. Turn the engine brake on, then off. Watch the
pressure to drop below the minimum required escape oil coming from under the control valve cover. If the oil has
for engine brake operation. bubbles or is foamy, air is present in the system. Aeration can be caused
The lubricating oil is being diluted by diesel Have the lubricating oil analyzed to determine if fuel is present. Refer to
fuel, causing oil pressure to drop below the the engine manufacturer’s service manual for corrective measures.
The engine oil is low, causing oil pressure to Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service manual for specifications. Add
drop below the minimum required for engine oil or recalibrate the dipstick as required.
brake operation.
The engine rocker arm bushings are worn, Replace the bushings. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service manual
causing oil pressure to drop below the for instructions.
Oil is leaking around the cylinder heads, Repair the cause of the leaks. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service
causing oil pressure to drop below the manual for instructions.
Restrictions in the oil passage leading to the Inspect all the passageways; remove anything restricting the oil flow.
operation.

Troubleshooting
The center solenoid seal ring is damaged, Remove the solenoid and replace the seal ring.
allowing oil to enter the engine brake with the
The clutch switch or the throttle switch is Check for correct switch operation. Adjust or replace the switch as needed.
stuck in the "on" position or is out of
adjustment.


The oil inlet supply seal is missing or Replace the seal.
damaged.
The upper solenoid valve seal is missing or Remove the solenoid and replace the upper seal ring.
damaged.
The external oil supply hoses or fittings are Inspect all hoses and fittings for tightness, chafing, or cuts.

Specifications
Torque Values
Torque
Component
Engine Brake Housing Hold-Down Capscrews: Stage 1 40 (55) —
Stage 2 80 (110) —
Solenoid Valve in Housing — 60 (680)
Slave Piston Adjusting Screw Locknut 25 (34) —
Slave Piston Leveling Screw Locknut 35 (47) —
Slave Piston Retaining Spring Screw 15 (20) —
Master Piston Screw — 100 (1120)
Rocker Shaft Studs 80 (110) —
Rocker Shaft Bolts and Nuts 80 (110) —

Hot 180° to 220°F (82°
to 104°C)

Cummins CELECT™ Electronic Engine 01.15
General Information and • PTO control, designed for power takeoff opera-
tions, which works when the vehicle is
Principles of Operation stopped.
• Cruise control, which maintains vehicle speed
(See Fig. 1)
within operator-selected limits.
2 • Road speed governing, which limits the vehicle
speed in the upper and lower gears to a preset
fuel efficient range.
1 3 • Engine speed governing, which limits maxi-
mum engine rpm.
4 • Idle shutdown timer, which is a programmable
5 6
delay of engine shutdown after the vehicle is
stopped and the parking brake is applied. This
delay can be from 3 to 60 minutes.
• Progressive shifting, which limits maximum en-
gine speed while shifting through the gears.
This programmable feature limits engine accel-
eration rates at specified vehicle speeds and
gears. Since the engine uses only the rpm
needed to get into the next gear, fuel is not
wasted by "winding up" the rpm in each gear
06/18/93 f150330 to gain speed.
1. Idle Validation Switch 4. Electronic Foot • Low idle adjustment, which is used to increase
2. Engine Position Pedal Assembly
Sensor (EPS) 5. Electronic Control
or decrease idle speed during engine warmup.
3. Vehicle Speed Module (ECM) Three of these operating modes are driver-activated
Sensor (VSS) 6. Electronic Injector and controlled. Cruise control and PTO control are
activated using two switches mounted to the right of
Fig. 1 the ignition switch (Fig. 2). Low idle adjustment is
controlled with a switch located near the left side
CELECT and CELECT IV are programmable
door post (Fig. 3).The remaining operating modes
electronically-controlled engine governing systems
perform automatically and according to programmed
available on Cummins L10 and N14 engines. These
specifications. Refer to the vehicle driver’s manual
electronic engine systems use sensors, electronic
for operating instructions.
injectors, an electronic foot pedal assembly, and an
electronic control module (ECM) to automatically
control engine timing and fuel injection. These sys-
tems also monitor oil pressure, oil temperature, cool-
ant temperature, and intake manifold pressure. If po-
tentially damaging engine conditions are detected,
the red "Shutdown" light in the VIGIL lightbar will
01/27/94 f600086
come on and the engine power will be gradually re-
duced. With the CELECT IV system, the engine Fig. 2
shuts down 30 seconds after the light comes on. The
ignition switch will restart the engine after emergency Identification
shutdown, but if the potentially damaging condition
still exists, the engine will operate at the reduced To determine whether a vehicle is equipped with
speed or torque level allowed just prior to emergency CELECT or with CELECT IV, find the engine wiring
shutdown. The CELECT systems provide the follow- harness connector plugged into the rear of the elec-
ing engine governing modes: tronic control module. If the system is a CELECT IV,

01.15 Cummins CELECT™ Electronic Engine
ECM to monitor critical engine temperatures, pres-

sures, and the coolant level.
1 As the camshaft gear turns, the engine position sen-
sor (EPS) provides engine speed and piston location
information to the ECM. On L10 engines, the EPS is
located above the accessory drive; on N14 engines,
the EPS is located just below the accessory drive.
See Fig. 4.
2 The vehicle speed sensor (VSS), mounted in the
transmission housing (Fig. 5), senses the movement
of the output-shaft gear teeth when the vehicle is
moving. The ECM uses this information to compute
3
vehicle road speed.
The intake manifold temperature sensor (Fig. 6), lo-
cated on the intake manifold, measures turbocharged
4 air temperature. This information is used by the ECM
to control the fan clutch circuit (if equipped).
The turbo boost pressure sensor (Fig. 6), located on
the intake manifold, monitors the amount of air enter-
06/17/93 f600441 ing the engine, and transmits this information to the
1. Steering Column 3. Engine Check ECM. The ECM uses this information to regulate the
2. Low Idle Adjust Switch fuel supply to control engine smoke.
Switch 4. Data Link Connector
The ambient air pressure sensor (installed only on
Fig. 3
N14 engines) monitors atmospheric pressure. The
ECM uses this information to adjust fuel supply to
there will be a branch harness coming out of the prevent turbocharger overspeeding. The sensor
main harness about 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) back from (Fig. 7) is located on the cylinder block, above the
the ECM connector. This branch harness will be fuel supply pump.
about 4 inches (10 cm) long and will use a flat, 4-pin The oil pressure and oil temperature sensors (Fig. 8)
connector to attach to the low coolant level sensor send electrical signals to the ECM for the engine pro-
harness. For FLD 112 Conventionals, the low coolant tection system. If a low oil level or high oil tempera-
level sensor is installed in the surge tank on the fire- ture condition is detected, the dash warning light
wall; for FLD 120 Conventionals and FLA COEs, the ("Shutdown") will come on and engine power will be
sensor is installed in the rear of the radiator top tank. gradually reduced.
If the vehicle isn’t equipped with a low coolant level
sensor, the 4-inch branch harness will connect with a The coolant temperature sensor (Fig. 9), installed in
jumper wire. the thermostat housing, provides information used by
the ECM to control injection timing during cold start-
The CELECT system can be used with either a ing conditions to reduce engine emissions.
VIGIL I warning lightbar or a VIGIL II warning and
shutdown lightbar. CELECT IV is used only with the The electronic foot pedal assembly contains the
VIGIL I. throttle position sensor and the idle validation switch.
The throttle position sensor sends a variable electri-
Engine Electronics cal signal (based on throttle pedal angle) to the
ECM. The idle validation switch is an on/off switch
The ECM controls current to the electronic injectors that indicates whether the pedal is at idle or not.
and determines fuel metering and injection timing
based on data received from the system sensors and The engine has built-in diagnostics to ensure that all
switches. Input from the sensors also allows the components are operating properly. There are two
dash lights: the yellow "Eng Chk" light and the red
"Shutdown" light. Both are located on the dashboard

A B
06/22/93 f150331
A. L10 Engine Shown 1. Engine Position Sensor

B. N14 Engine Shown 2. Engine Position Sensor
Fig. 4
2
08/30/93 f150397
1. Vehicle Speed Sensor 06/17/93 f150333

NOTE: L10 Engine Shown
Fig. 5 1. Boost Pressure 2. Intake Manifold
Sensor Temperature Sensor
lightbar, and both light up when the ignition is turned
on. If the CELECT or CELECT IV system and the Fig. 6
engine are working normally, both lights will go out
after two seconds. fault codes are recorded, both lights will come on
momentarily, then the lights will begin to flash the
Intermittent engine system problems are logged and code of the recorded fault.
stored in memory. Whenever there is an active en-
gine system problem, either the yellow "Eng Chk" First, the yellow "Eng Chk" light will flash. There will
light or the red "Shutdown" light will come on and be a short one- or two-second pause, then the num-
stay on as long as the problem exists. ber of the recorded fault code will flash the red
"Shutdown" light. There will be a one or two second
Use the "Eng Chk" switch (Fig. 10), located near the pause after each number. For example, a code 244
left-side door post, to determine the fault codes. Turn is shown by one flash of the yellow "Eng Chk" light,
on the ignition switch, then move the "Eng Chk" a pause of about one or two seconds, followed by
switch up (on position). If no fault codes are re- two flashes of the red "Shutdown" light, a pause of
corded, both dash lights will come on and stay on. If about one or two seconds, a series of four flashes

01.15 Cummins CELECT™ Electronic Engine
from the red "Shutdown" light, another pause of To check for any additional fault codes, move the low
about one or two seconds, a series of four more idle adjust switch up, then release it. To view a previ-
flashes from the red "Shutdown" light, then, after a ous fault code, move the low idle adjust switch to
one or two second pause, one flash of the yellow down, then release it.
"Eng Chk" light. See Fig. 11. When the number is
When you are done checking the fault codes, move
done flashing, the yellow "Eng Chk" light will come
the "Eng Chk" switch down (off position), and turn off
on again before the same sequence is repeated. The
the ignition switch.
lights will continue to flash the same fault code.
The Compulink can be used to read the numerical
code of the component or condition causing the
problem. For complete information on the use of this
service tool, contact a Cummins service representa-
tive.
For complete information on fault diagnosis and
troubleshooting the electronic engine system, refer to
either the L10 or N14 engine manual entitled
Troubleshooting and Repair Manual, CELECT Sys-
tem, available through your Cummins service repre-
1 sentative.
06/17/93 f150335
1. Ambient Air Pressure Sensor
Fig. 7
1 2
3
A B
06/22/93 f150334
A. L10 Engine Shown
B. N14 Engine Shown
1. Oil Temperature Sensor (behind ECM) 4. Oil Pressure Sensor (located behind the ECM)
2. Oil Pressure Sensor
3. Oil Temperature Sensor (located in the lubricating oil
pump housing)
Fig. 8

1 2 2 2 1
P P P P
3 4 5 5 3
1 06/17/93 f150159
NOTE: P = Pause
1. Yellow 4. Two Blinks
2. Red 5. Four Blinks
3. One Blink
06/22/93 f150332 Fig. 11, Fault Code 244

1. Coolant Temperature Sensor
Fig. 9
06/17/93 f600441
1. Steering Column 3. Engine Check
2. Low Idle Adjust Switch
Switch 4. Data Link Connector
Fig. 10

Caterpillar 3406C Electronic Engine 01.16
General Information (See Fig. 1) service brake and clutch switches and the parking
brake switch also control the engine system.
The Caterpillar Electronic Engine System—available When an emergency occurs—a loss of oil pressure
on 3406C engines—provides electronic engine con- for example, or low engine coolant—the Electronic
trol and engine warning and shutdown features to Engine System has optional engine protection fea-
prevent engine damage.
12
2 3
4 13
1 5 11
14
11 6 15
8 7 16
10 9
04/29/93 f010618a
1. Shutoff Solenoid 10. Transducer Module
2. Shutoff Solenoid Connector J13/P13 11. Timing Position Sensor
3. Vehicle Connector J7 (40 Pin) 12. Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector J10/P10 (3
4. Engine Data Link Connector Pin)
5. ECM Connector J4/P4 13. Coolant Temperature Sensor
6. Personality Module 14. Timing Position Sensor Connector J2/P2
7. Electronic Control Module 15. Timing Solenoid BTM Connector J6/P6
8. Rack Solenoid Connector J3/P3 (3 Pin) 16. Timing Solenoid BTM
9. Rack Solenoid
Fig. 1, Caterpillar 3406C Electronic Engine

Under normal operating conditions, the system con- tures that will warn the driver, then cut the vehicle
trols the engine with an electronic control module, a speed and shut down the engine, depending on the
transducer module, a timing advance unit, and an level of protection the customer prefers.
electronic governor, all of which are located on the
Attached to the outboard side of the electronic con-
engine. Additional parts include a throttle position
trol module is the personality module, which contains
sensor and a data link ( see Fig. 2). Inside the cab,
the basic performance program for that particular en-
the cruise control switches, exhaust brake switch,
gine. A 3406C engine has the following electronic
functions:

01.16 Caterpillar 3406C Electronic Engine
01/27/94 f600086
Fig. 3, Cruise Control Switches, Standard Location
1
01/26/94 f010168b
1. 12-Pin DDL Connector
2. Upper Steering Column Cover Panel
Fig. 2
• Electronic governing
• Control of fuel-to-air ratio 02/03/94 f600507a
• Torque rise shaping Fig. 4, Cruise Control Switches, Optional Location

etc.) on the lightbar will activate as a warning to the
• System diagnostics driver. For low oil pressure or high coolant tempera-
• Vehicle speed limiting ture, a warning buzzer will also activate. Since the oil
pressure and the coolant temperature are monitored
• Progressive shift control by both the VIGIL and the Caterpillar systems, either
• PTO governor one or both systems can activate in an emergency. If
the Caterpillar system activates, only the check-
• Cold mode operation engine light will light. If the VIGIL system activates,
• Cruise control either the low oil pressure or coolant temperature
lights will activate. The parameters are about the
Two of these functions—cruise control and PTO same for the Caterpillar and VIGIL high coolant tem-
governing—are driver-activated, and are controlled perature warning systems, so those systems should
by two switches mounted to the right of the ignition activate simultaneously. The Caterpillar low oil pres-
switch or in the accessory gauge panel ( Fig. 3 or sure warning system is more sensitive that the
Fig. 4). When the vehicle is parked, the switches VIGIL—the Caterpillar system judges the oil pressure
control the PTO; when moving, the switches control in relation to engine rpm—so the Caterpillar system
the cruise control. The remaining functions perform may indicate an emergency before the VIGIL system.
automatically and according to programmed specifi-
cations. NOTE: On 3406C Electronic Engines, the VIGIL
Vehicles equipped with the Electronic Engine System I lightbar is not equipped with a warning light for
use a VIGIL I lightbar. See Fig. 5. When an emer- low coolant level. If coolant is needed, only the
gency occurs, the check-engine light and/or a spe- check-engine light will activate.
cific warning light (low air pressure, low oil pressure,

1 2 3 TRANSDUCER MODULE
The transducer module, mounted on the rear of the
E F C D G
injector pump, contains an engine oil pressure sen-
sor, an inlet air pressure sensor, and a boost pres-
sure sensor. The transducer module sends signals to
the electronic control module for engine speed and
the position of the injector pump rack. It also moni-
01/26/94 f600551b tors incoming air pressure.
1. Check Engine Light
2. Shutdown Light (or Stop Engine Light if the derate TIMING ADVANCE UNIT
protection mode is specified)
3. Lightbar Options The timing advance unit, mounted on the front of the
engine, contains an electronic brushless torque mo-
Fig. 5, VIGIL I Lightbar tor, which controls a hydraulic servo. The servo con-
trols the flow of oil to the drive carrier, which ad-
Caterpillar 3406C Electronic Engines have the follow- vances or retards the engine timing.
ing optional engine protection warning and shutdown
features: THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
• Low Oil Pressure
The throttle position sensor links the throttle pedal
• High Coolant Temperature with the injector pump by way of the electronic con-
• Low Coolant Level trol module. It replaces conventional throttle linkage.
Depending on the customer’s preference, the 3406C SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS

engine protection system can be set at one of two
levels. At the first level, the system will activate the A Caterpillar Electronic Engine has built-in diagnos-
warnings when an emergency situation occurs and tics to ensure that all components are working cor-
then cut engine power if the situation worsens—but rectly. Intermittent engine problems are stored in
will not shut down the engine. At the second level of memory, and remain there until the ignition is turned
engine protection, the system will activate the warn- off. If there is a problem with the system, the "CHK
ings, cut engine power and shut down the engine as ENG" light on the dash lightbar will stay on, instead
the emergency situation worsens. of going out after 10 seconds.
Each vehicle is programmed with the level of emer- To determine the system problem, turn the ignition
gency engine protection specified by the customer. key to the "on" position. The "CHK ENG" light will
To change that level, the customer can return the begin a series of flashes that correspond to a nu-
vehicle to a Caterpillar or Freightliner dealership for meric diagnostic code. For example, a code 25 is
reprogramming with a Caterpillar ECAP (Electronic shown by two flashes, a pause of about two sec-
Control Analyzer Programmer) service tool. onds, then five short flashes. See Fig. 6. If more
than one code has been logged into the system, the
"CHK ENG" light will flash the codes in sequence,
Principles of Operation with a pause of about 3 seconds between codes.
See Table 1 for a list of the diagnostic codes.
ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE
The electronic control module, mounted on the left
side of the engine, controls the injector pump and the A
injection timing. It also provides power to the sensors
on the engine, and monitors the overall operation of
04/29/93 f010613
the system. The electronic control module is cooled
by fuel flowing through a cooling plate, located be- A. Two Second Pause
tween the electronic control module and the engine
Fig. 6, Diagnostic Code Example, Code 25
block.

01.16 Caterpillar 3406C Electronic Engine
ENGINE PROTECTION FEATURES hicle speed to 45 mph (72 Km/h). If the coolant level
drops below the sensor for 30 seconds, the system
The 3406C Electronic Engine monitors oil pressure, shuts down the engine.
coolant temperature, and coolant level.
The oil pressure sensor is in the transducer module ( Fault Description
see Fig. 1), mounted on the rear of the fuel injector Code
pump. The sensor measures oil pressure from 0 PSI 12 Coolant Level Sensor Fault (PEEC III only)
(0 kPa) to 45 psi (312 kPa), with any pressure above
21 Sensor Supply Voltage Fault
that displayed as 45 psi (312 kPa). This measure-
ment is about 1 psi (10 kPa) less than oil pressure in 22 Rack Position Sensor Fault
the galley. 23 Timing Position Sensor Fault
The sensor measures oil pressure only after the en- 24 Oil Pressure Sensor Fault
gine has been running for about 10 seconds, this 25 Boost Pressure Sensor Fault
way system oil pressure has a chance to build to op-
erating levels at engine start up. If after the first 10 27 Coolant Temperature Sensor Fault (PEEC III
seconds of engine operation the oil pressure drops only)
below 45 psi (312 kPa) for two seconds, the lightbar 28 Check Throttle Sensor Adjustment (PEEC III
check-engine light activates. Depending on the level only)
of engine protection selected by the customer, after 31 Loss of Vehicle Speed Signal
10 seconds of low oil pressure, the system cuts en-
gine horsepower to 160, engine RPM to 1350, and 32 Throttle Position Sensor Fault
vehicle speed to 45 mph (72 Km/h). If oil pressure is 33 Engine RPM Signal Out of Range
low for more than 30 seconds, the system shuts 34 Engine RPM Signal Fault
down the engine.
The coolant temperature sensor is mounted in the
water jacket, in the front of the engine housing ( 36 Vehicle Speed Signal Fault
see Fig. 1). When coolant temperature is below 40°F 41 Vehicle Overspeed (PEEC only)
(4°C) the system puts the engine in Cold Mode, limit- 42 Check Sensor Calibrations
ing engine power, retarding timing, and increasing
the low idle to improve warm-up time. The system 43 Rack Subsystem Fault
will keep the engine in Cold Mode until coolant tem- 44 Timing Subsystem Fault
perature rises above 68°F (20°C) or until the engine
has been running for 15 minutes. The system will
then stop the Cold Mode and allow the engine to op- 46 Low Oil Pressure Warning
erate normally. 47 Idle Shutdown Occurence
If the engine coolant rises above 216°F (102°C) for 48 Excessive Engine Power
more than two seconds, the system activates the 51 Intermittent Battery Power to the ECM (PEEC
lightbar check-engine light. Depending on the level of III only)
protection specified by the customer, the system cuts
engine power ten seconds after the temperature 52 Control or Personality Module Fault
reaches 219°F (104°C). The system cuts engine 53 Electronic Control Module Fault
horsepower to 160 and vehicle speed to 45 mph (72 54 Data Link Fault (PEEC only)
Km/h). Thirty seconds later, if the problem persists,
the shutdown light comes on, and the engine shuts 55 No Detected Faults
down. 56 Check Customer or System Parameters
The low coolant level sensor is installed in the radia- 57 Parking Brake Switch Fault
tor top or surge tank. Depending on the level of pro- 58 Power Train Data Link Fault (PEEC III only)
tection specified by the customer, if the coolant in the
tank drops below the sensor for 10 seconds, the sys- 61 High Coolant Temperature Warning (PEEC III
tem cuts engine output to 160 horsepower, and ve- only)

Fault Description
Code
62 Low Coolant Level Warning (PEEC III only)
Table 1, Diagnostic Flash Codes

Detroit Diesel Electronic Controls (DDEC III®) 01.17
General Description A DDEC III ECM will have wiring harnesses plugged
into two ends: The Detroit Diesel wiring harnesses
(one 30-pin connector and two smaller connectors)
This is a general description of, first, the standard
will plug into one end of the ECM; the Freightliner
features of the Detroit Diesel Electronic Control Sys-
wiring harnesses (one 30-pin connector, plus a 5-pin
tem (DDEC III) as installed on Freightliner vehicles,
and a 6-pin connector) will plug into the opposite end
and second, the components that make up DDEC III.
of the ECM. A short, pigtail harness branches off the
This section has a brief description of different ways
harness coming from the 30-pin connector on the
to troubleshoot the DDEC III, but doesn’t have the
Detroit Diesel side of the ECM. This pigtail harness
actual troubleshooting procedures. For troubleshoot-
wraps around the ECM and ends in a 3-pin connec-
ing procedures and specifications, refer to the Detroit
Diesel DDEC III Troubleshooting Guide. tor near the Freightliner side. The pigtail harness
connects with the Freightliner electrical engine har-
To tell if an engine is equipped with DDEC II or ness.
DDEC III, find the Electronic Control Module (ECM)
on the left side of the engine. See Fig. 1. A DDEC II To tell if the engine is programmed to shut down in
Electronic Control Module will have two 30-pin con- emergencies, look at the lightbar in the dash. En-
nectors and a 5-pin connector, and all three connec- gines with the shutdown option will have a "Shut-
tors will plug into one end of the ECM. down Engine Light" (SEL). See Fig. 2. Engines with-
A B
02/11/94 f010708
A. Detroit Diesel Series 60 Engine B. Detroit Diesel Series 50 Engine
1. Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Fig. 1, Electronic Control Module Locations

01.17 Detroit Diesel Electronic Controls (DDEC III®)
out the shutdown option will have an "Engine engine. This control improves fuel economy and low-
Warning" light in place of the shutdown light. ers exhaust emissions.
The DDEC III system also provides limiting and vari-
1 2 3 able speed governing. The Limiting Speed Governor
fuels the engine according to the driver’s use of the
throttle. An optional Variable Speed Governor will
CHK
ENG
SHUT
DOWN
hold the engine at a constant requested speed
(within engine capabilities) regardless of load
changes such as hills or winds. The Variable Speed
Governor is usually used to provide steady, even
power to a PTO (controlled with the cruise control
switches while the vehicle is parked), and it will hold
the engine speed constant without increased use of
the hand throttle or throttle pedal.
While controlling fuel delivery to the unit injectors, the
ECM also monitors sensor reports about oil tempera-
ture, fuel pressure, etc. If any of the sensors report a
problem, the ECM activates first the "Check Engine
01/21/94 f600062 Light" (CEL) and then the "Shutdown Engine Light"
(SEL) in the VIGIL I lightbar. See Fig. 2. The CEL
1. VIGIL I Lightbar will light if the problem is minor enough that it can be
2. Check Engine Light
3. Shutdown Engine Light
solved as soon as convenient. If the problem re-
solves itself, for example, if the coolant temperature
Fig. 2, DDEC III Warning Lights drops back down into the acceptable range, the CEL
will go out. However, if the problem gets worse: For
FEATURES example, if the coolant or oil temperature continues
to rise, the ECM will reduce engine power by cutting
The Detroit Diesel Electronic Control System (DDEC the fuel to the injectors. As the problem gets worse,
III) controls and monitors Detroit Diesel Series 50 the ECM will continue to cut fuel until engine power
and Series 60 engines installed in Freightliner ve- is reduced by 30 percent. At that point, (if the engine
hicles. DDEC III, first offered with Detroit Diesel 1994 is programmed with the shutdown option) the ECM
engines, can protect the engines from serious dam- will turn on the SEL. Thirty seconds after that, the
age caused by: ECM will shut down the engine by not delivering any
• High Coolant Temperature fuel to the injectors.
• High Oil Temperature NOTE: Immediately after the SEL comes on, the
• Low Coolant Level driver must press the Diagnostics Request/
Override button if the driver cannot move the
• Low Oil Pressure vehicle to safety within the thirty seconds before
If coolant or oil temperatures rise too high, or if cool- engine shutdown. Pressing the button just be-
ant level or oil pressure drop too low, dash warning fore shutdown will keep the engine running for
lights will light and a buzzer will sound. thirty more seconds.
The brain of the DDEC III system is an electronic If the engine is not programmed to shut down, the
control module (ECM). The ECM receives informa- ECM will continue to cut fuel delivery to the injectors
tion from the engine sensors provided on the engine until the engine is running at 40 percent of original
by Detroit Diesel, and information from the electronic power.
throttle pedal, vehicle speed sensor, and coolant
level sensor provided by Freightliner. Comparing this After an emergency engine shutdown, the Diagnostic
information with the calibration tables in its memory, Request/Override button allows the driver to re-start
the ECM controls the fuel timing and quantity of fuel the engine for thirty seconds and move the vehicle to
that the electronic unit (fuel) injectors deliver to the a new location. Turn the ignition off and then on, and

press the override button. See Fig. 3. For additional Diagnostics

time, the driver must press the override button again,
every thirty seconds. Emergency engine warning, If the DDEC III reports an engine problem, you have
power derate, and engine shutdown are standard on three ways to diagnose it:
engines equipped with DDEC III, but an engine can • Press the Diagnostic Request/Override button
be programmed to give a warning and then cut en- (on the left switch panel, near the start button)
gine power without shutting down. If an engine is not and watch the codes flashed by the CEL and
programmed with the shutdown option, the shutdown SEL lights. Two types of flash codes represent
light in the lightbar will be replaced with a "Engine engine problems. The first type, active codes,
Warning" light. To re-program engine options, contact represent existing problems and keep the CEL
your nearest Freightliner dealer. or SEL lighted. The second type, historical
codes, represent problems that are logged in
the ECM but are not active.
When you switch the ignition on, all the light-
bar lights will activate for five seconds as a
self-check of the warning system. If the CEL
and SEL stay on after that time, the engine
has a problem, and the DDEC III has a flash
2 code ready to represent that problem. To read
the flash code, turn on the ignition or idle the
engine, and wait for five seconds. Then press
and hold the Diagnostic Request/Override but-
ton. The SEL will flash a number of times to
represent the code for the problem. For ex-
ample, the code 13 would be one SEL flash
followed by a pause, then three more flashes.
If the engine has more than one problem, a
code for each of the problems will flash with a
1
pause of several seconds between them.
01/21/94 f600691
See Fig. 5. After all the active codes have
flashed, or if there are no actives codes, the
1. Deutsch 6-Pin Connector SEL will flash code 25. After that, the CEL will
2. Diagnostic Request/Override Button
flash any historical codes for problems that are
Fig. 3, Diagnostic Connector and Button not active but are logged in the ECM. After all
the historical codes have flashed, or if there
Information about coolant temperature and oil pres- are no historical codes, the CEL will flash code
sure travels from the engine sensors, through the 25. For the meaning of the flash codes, refer
ECM, to a Kysor Electronic Data Monitor (EDM). to the Detroit Diesel DDEC III Troubleshooting
See Fig. 4. The EDM translates this information from Guide.
a digital signal to an analog signal that controls the
dash gauges and warning lights. The EDM makes it • Use a hand-held Diagnostic Data Reader
possible for a single sensor to control several com- (DDR) equipped with a DDEC III cartridge.
ponents, such as the engine fan, dash gauges, and With the ignition turned on or the engine idling,
dash warning lights. Using a single sensor prevents connect the reader to the Deutsch six-pin con-
problems caused by conflicting information from mul- nector under the lower, left dash panel.
tiple sensors. For example, a coolant sensor that See Fig. 3. If using a DDR, choose reader
controls the engine shutdown feature might be in a Mode 01 to read the active codes, and choose
hotter area of the engine, and this sensor might acti- Mode 02 to read the historical codes.
vate the dash warning light before a sensor in a • Use a personal computer connected to the
cooler area turns on the engine fan. With a single ECM.
sensor, and the EDM to translate the sensor signal,
problems like this won’t happen.

1 D555
953 D542
A 18C
2 34
12V
HIGH
WATER
LOW
OIL
234A
98C IGN
6
7
+12V IGN 81C

GND
119
8
C
C
D
D
A
A
E
B
F
4
3
EDM
Electronic
Monitor
Data
01/21/94 f200267
A. This wire was installed on only some early Freightliner vehicles.
1. Electronic Control Module 4. Kysor Electronic Data Monitor 7. Air-Controlled Fan Clutch
2. VIGIL I Lightbar 5. Receiver Drier 8. Coolant Temperature Gauge
3. Diagnostic Connector 6. Fan Control Solenoid Valve
Fig. 4, Electronic Data Monitor
SHUT SHUT SHUT SHUT SHUT SHUT SHUT

DOWN A DOWN DOWN DOWN C DOWN DOWN A DOWN
B D
02/09/94 f010122a
A. Short Pause (1/2 Second) C. Long Pause (3 Seconds)
B. Flash Code 13 D. Flash Code 21
Fig. 5, DDEC III Flash Codes

Idle Shutdown Timer Freightliner end of the ECM; the third connector, the
3-pin connector, plugs into a short pigtail harness
The same system that shuts down the engine during that is routed around from the opposite end of the
a problem also shuts down the engine if the cus- ECM. A fourth connector near the ECM, plugs into
tomer requests the optional idle shutdown time. With the single-pin connector on the power harness. At
an idle shutdown timer, the engine automatically the firewall, the cab interface connector plugs the
shuts down after idling for a predetermined number harness into the cab wiring harness. The low coolant
of minutes. That length of time can be set anywhere level sensor branch of the harness plugs into the
between two minutes and 99 minutes. To start the sensor in the radiator top tank or surge tank. The
engine after the idle shutdown timer has shut it vehicle speed sensor branch of the harness plugs
down, turn the key all the way off, then turn the key into the sensor at the transmission output.
on. To make the engine idle longer than the predeter-
mined length of time, release and immediately re- On the Detroit Diesel end of the ECM are one 30-pin
apply the parking brake, or press the throttle pedal connector and two smaller connectors.
while the engine is idling and rev the engine slightly. The 30-pin connector is on the third wiring harness:
Ninety seconds before the engine shuts down, the The harness that connects the ECM to the turbo
CEL will flash. Step on the throttle pedal and rev the boost pressure sensor, the timing and synchronous
engine during this time, and the engine will idle in- reference sensors, the temperature sensors for the
definitly. air, oil, fuel, and coolant, and pressure sensors for
the fuel, oil, and coolant. See Fig. 10 and Fig. 11.
COMPONENTS This harness includes a smaller pigtail harness that
runs from the Detroit Diesel end of the ECM and
Electronic Control Module ends in a 3-pin connector near the Freightliner end.
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) is mounted on This pigtail harness connects to a 3-pin connector at
the lower left side of Detroit Diesel Series 50 and 60 the end of the Freightliner electrical engine wiring
engines. Four wiring harnesses connect to the ECM. harness.
Two Detroit Diesel harness plug into one end of the The two smaller wiring connectors plugged into the
ECM; two Freightliner harnesses plug into the oppo- Detroit Diesel end of the ECM belong to the fourth
site end. wiring harness. This harness connects the ECM to
On the Freightliner end, the first harness, the power the electronic fuel injectors.
harness, runs from the batteries to the ECM, and A fifth wiring harness, the Freightliner non-electronic
includes a single 15 amp fuse. See Fig. 6, Fig. 7, component wiring harness ( see Fig. 12, Fig. 13,
and Fig. 8. The fuse is mounted on the battery box, and Fig. 14), connects cab and chassis wiring at the
and if the fuse fails, the engine will not run. At the bulkhead connectors to parts within the engine com-
engine, the five-pin power harness connector plugs partment, including:
into the ECM, and the harness’s single-pin connector
plugs into a connector on the Freightliner electrical • The air conditioning pressure switch
engine wiring harness. • The magnetic switch
NOTE: Before troubleshooting the DDEC III sys- • The starter
tem, make sure the fuse for the power harness
• The back-up light and alarm switch
and the ignition circuit are good.
• The transmission oil temperature sender
The second harness, the Freightliner electrical en-
gine wiring harness, connects the ECM and the sen- • The ether start system
sors installed by Freightliner (the low coolant level • The fan solenoid
sensor and the vehicle speed sensor) to the cab wir-
ing. See Fig. 7, Fig. 8, and Fig. 9. This engine wir- • The alternator
ing harness also connects the ECM to the tachom- • The ammeter shunt
eter. Three of the wiring harness’s connectors plug
into the ECM. Two of these connectors, the 30-pin The ECM makes continuous self-diagnostic checks
connector and the six-pin connector plug into the and monitors the DDEC III system from ignition
through all engine operating modes. The ECM con-

D150
A D151
C
A
D240
B
C
B
A
1
B
02/09/94 f540714
A. Connect to the Freightliner end of the ECM. C. Connect to the batteries.
B. Connect to the Freightliner electrical engine wiring
harness.
1. 15 Amp Fuse
Fig. 6, Power Harness

tains an Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Electronic Data Monitor
Only Memory (EEPROM), which controls the basic
engine functions, including: Although the Electronic Data Monitor (EDM) is not
made by Detroit Diesel, Freightliner installs it on De-
• Rated Speed and Power troit engines with DDEC III. See Fig. 4. On FLB
• Fuel Injection Timing COEs, the EDM is on top of the tunnel; on FLD Con-
ventionals, the EDM is just below the electrical
• Engine Governing
mounting plate on the cab firewall.
• Torque Shaping
The EDM receives signals from ECM and translates
• Cold Start Logic those signals from digital to analog signals that con-
• Transient Fuel Delivery trol the coolant temperature gauge, the low oil pres-
sure warning light, and the high coolant temperature
• Diagnostics warning light.
• Engine Protection The EDM uses signals from the ECM to control the
For precise fuel delivery and improved fuel economy, engine fan. The EDM will turn the fan on if any of the
the control logic uses calibration tables to determine following occur:
the duration and timing of fuel delivery to the elec- • The oil temperature rises above 230°F (110°C)
tronic unit injectors.
• The coolant temperature rises to 205°F (96°C)
ECM Programming • The intake air temperature rises above 151°F
In production, Freightliner programs the Electronically (66°C)
Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EE- • The air conditioner is turned on 1
PROM) with the standard engine operating features
• The oil, coolant, or air temperature sensor fails
and any options the customer has specified. Cur-
rently, the standard program includes engine shut- • The fan control override switch is turned on
down, but the option is available only to derate en-
gine power in emergency situations. To re-program Electronic Unit Injectors
the EEPROM, take the vehicle to the nearest The Electronic Unit (fuel) Injectors (EUI) operate the
Freightliner or Detroit Diesel dealership. same as Detroit Diesel mechanical unit injectors: The
cam/rocker arm system powers the high fuel delivery
1 The fan will stay on for three minutes after the air conditioner is turned off

3 D
A C
B
A
F
E
D
C
B
A
B
B A 2
4 3
1 POS
C
B
A
GND ECM
F
E
D
C
2
B
A
02/04/94 f010776
A. Route to the cab. C. Route to the transmission.
B. Route to the magnetic switch. D. Route to the batteries.
1. Freightliner Non-Electronic 2. Freightliner Electrical Engine 4. Alternator
Component Wiring Harness Wiring Harness 5. Electronic Control Module
3. Power Harness
Fig. 7, Freightliner Engine Harnesses, Detroit Diesel Series 60 in an FLB COE

1 1
A
B
1
2 A
C
3 D
C
B
A
F
E
D
C
B
A
4 3
POS
1 C
B
A
GND ECM
F
E
D
C
5 2
B
A
B
B
A
1 A
C
E
02/09/94 f010774
A. Route to the cab. C. Route to the transmission. E. Route to the starter.
B. Route to the firewall. D. Route to the batteries.
1. Freightliner Non-Electronic 2. Freightliner Electrical Engine 4. Alternator
Component Wiring Harness Wiring Harness 5. Electronic Control Module
3. Power Harness
Fig. 8, Freightliner Engine Harnesses, Detroit Diesel Series 60 in an FLD Conventional

C
A B
B
E
A
B
D
C
D
E
F
01/24/94 f540715
A. Connect to the cab interface connector. D. Connect to the electronic control module.
B. Connect to the tachometer. E. Connect to the power harness.
C. Connect to the vehicle speed sensor. F. Connect to the low coolant level sensor.
Fig. 9, Freightliner Electrical Engine Wiring Harness

pressure. However, on the EUI, a solenoid controlled Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor
by the ECM controls fuel injection timing and fuel
quantity. When the solenoid valve closes, fuel injec- The Turbo Boost Sensor (TBS) is installed in the side
tion begins. When the solenoid opens, fuel injection of the air intake manifold, and monitors the pressure
ends. As long as the ECM keeps the solenoid of the engine intake air after it has been pressurized
closed, the unit injector injects fuel into the cylinder. by the turbocharger and cooled by the aftercooler.
See Fig. 10 and Fig. 11. The ECM uses information
Timing and Synchronous from the TBS to control engine smoke.
Reference Sensors Oil Pressure Sensor (See Fig. 10 and
The timing reference sensor (TRS) tells the ECM the Fig. 11)
engine rpm. This sensor is installed in front of the air
compressor, below the air compressor drive. The oil pressure sensor is installed in the engine
See Fig. 10 and Fig. 11. The synchronous reference block, right below the rear end of the air intake mani-
sensor (SRS) indicates a specific cylinder in the firing fold. This sensor tells the ECM if the engine oil pres-
order. It is installed in front of the air compressor, sure in the gallery falls below a certain pressure in
above the air compressor drive. relation to the engine rpm. See Fig. 15. If oil pres-
sure falls to that pressure, the ECM turns on the CEL
and SEL, and the EDM turns on the low oil pressure
warning light and buzzer. Thirty seconds later, the

6
4 5
7
3
8
01/21/94 f010778
1. Coolant Temperature Sensor 4. Turbo Boost Sensor 7. Oil Pressure Sensor
2. Timing Reference Sensor 5. Intake Air Temperature Sensor 8. Oil Temperature Sensor
3. Synchronous Reference Sensor 6. Electronic Unit Injectors 9. Fuel Temperature Sensor
Fig. 10, Detroit Diesel Wiring Harnesses and Sensors on Series 60 Engine With DDEC III
ECM shuts down the engine (if the engine is pro- ECM drops fuel delivery back to the original rate be-
grammed with shutdown protection). cause, at this temperature, the fuel and engine are
too hot.
Fuel, Air, Coolant, and Oil The air temperature sensor, installed in the under-
Temperature Sensors (See Fig. 10 and side of the air intake manifold, reports engine intake
Fig. 11) air temperature to the ECM so the ECM can vary the
hot idle speed and injection timing for better cold
The fuel temperature sensor, installed in the second- starts and less white smoke.
ary fuel filter, measures fuel temperatures for the
ECM to use when calculating fuel consumption and The coolant temperature sensor, installed in the cool-
fuel input compensation. If the fuel temperature rises ant jacket above the rear end of the exhaust mani-
above 100°F (38°C), the ECM will increase fuel de- fold, tells the ECM if coolant temperature exceeds
livery to the injectors. This increase in volume com- 217°F (103°C). At that temperature, the EDM turns
pensates for the warmer, less dense fuel. If the fuel on the high coolant temperature light and buzzer,
temperature rises to 140°F (60°C), the ECM will no and the ECM turns on the CEL and begins to cut
longer increase the fuel delivery to the injectors. The engine power. If the coolant reaches 223°F (106°C),
the ECM turns on the SEL and shuts down the en-

1 5 6
7
9
4
02/11/94 f010777
1. Coolant Temperature Sensor 4. Synchronous Reference Sensor 7. Electronic Unit Injectors

2. Fuel Temperature Sensor 5. Intake Air Temperature Sensor 8. Oil Pressure Sensor
3. Timing Reference Sensor 6. Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor 9. Oil Temperature Sensor
Fig. 11, Detroit Diesel Wiring Harnesses and Sensors on Series 50 Engine With DDEC III
gine (if the engine is programmed with shutdown Electronic throttle pedal with DDEC III systems.
protection). There is no mechanical throttle linkage.
The oil temperature sensor is installed below the oil NOTE: Williams throttle pedals made to work
pressure sensor, below the rear end of the intake air with DDEC II will work with DDEC III, but the
manifold. See Fig. 10 and Fig. 11. It reports oil tem- reverse is not true.
perature to the ECM so the ECM can vary idle speed
and injection timing for better cold starts and less Coolant Level Sensor
white smoke. If oil temperature exceeds 250°F
(121°C), the EDM activates the high oil temperature Freightliner installs the coolant level sensor in the
warning light and buzzer, and the ECM activates the radiator top tank or surge tank. The coolant grounds
CEL and begins to cut engine power. If the oil tem- the sensor, so if the coolant level drops below the
perature reaches 260°F (127°C) the ECM turns on sensor for more than seven to ten seconds, the low
the SEL and shuts down the engine (if the engine is coolant level warnings begin. The warning means
programmed with shutdown protection). more than 10% of the engine coolant is missing, and
this early warning will prevent coolant aeration and
Throttle Position Sensor water jacket cavitation.
The throttle position sensor is part of the electronic
foot pedal assembly. Freightliner uses the Williams

3 6 7
2
9
8
A
7
B
6
1
A B
9 8
10
18
17 15
11
16
12
13
14
01/21/94 f540712
1. Speedometer Sensor 9. Ether Start 15. Engine Oil Temperature Sensor
2. Back-Up Light Switch 10. Air Conditioning Refrigerant 16. Coolant Temperature Switch (not
3. Starter Compressor Clutch used with EDM)
4. Ammeter Shunt 11. Fan Solenoid 17. Tachometer Sensor
5. Magnetic Switch 12. Alternator 18. Transmission Oil Temperature
6. Air Conditioning Pressure Switch 13. Fan Temperature Switch Sensor
7. Bulkhead Connections 14. Coolant Temperature Gauge
8. Power Stud Sender (not used with EDM)
Fig. 12, Freightliner Non-Electronic Component Wiring Harness, Detroit Diesel Series 60 Engine in an FLB COE
Vehicle Speed Sensor

The vehicle speed sensor is installed in the transmis-
sion output, and sends vehicle speed signals to the
speedometer and to the ECM. The ECM uses this
signal for cruise control and for vehicle speed limit-
ing.

1 2
4
3
7
5 6
8
20 9
19 10
11
18
16
12
17 15 14
13
01/21/94 f540711
1. Power Stud 9. Fan Temperature Switch 15. Engine Oil Temperature Sensor
2. Bulkhead Connections 10. Coolant Temperature Gauge 16. Tachometer Sensor
3. Magnetic Switch Sensor (not used with EDM) 17. Transmission Oil Temperature
4. Electric Horn 11. Ground Sensor
5. Ether Start 12. Starter 18. Speedometer Sensor
6. Air Conditioner Refrigerant 13. Ammeter 19. Back-Up Switch
Compressor Clutch 14. Coolant Temperature Switch (not 20. Air Conditioning Pressure Switch
7. Fan Solenoid used with EDM)
8. Alternator
Fig. 13, Freightliner Non-Electronic Component Wiring Harness, Detroit Diesel Series 60 Engine in an FLD
Conventional

C
E
G H
D D
E E
C
C B
F F
02/04/94 f010775
A. Route to the starter. D. Route to the power stud. G. Route to the refrigerant
B. Route to air conditioning E. Route to the bulkhead compressor.
pressure switch on the receiver connectors. H. Route to the ether start.
drier. F. Route to the transmission
C. Route to the magnetic switch (back-up switch, vehicle speed
and the horn. sensor, tachometer sensor).
Fig. 14, Freightliner Non-Electronic Component Wiring Harness, Detroit Diesel Series 50 Engine

35 (241)
30 (206)
25 (172)
20 (138)
A
15 (103)
10 (70)
5 (34)
0
200 400 600 800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 2000 2200
B
01/21/94 f040206
A. Oil Pressure in PSI (kPa) B. RPM
Fig. 15, Low Oil Pressure Limits, Detroit Diesel Series 50 and 60 Engines with DDEC III

Kysor Electronic Data Monitor (EDM) 01.18
General Description
Since model year 1994, Freightliner models FLD and These parameters are programmable, and values
FLD 112 conventionals and FLB COEs equipped with listed above are default settings. With the EDM, the
Detroit Diesel Series 50 and 60 DDEC III engines DDEC controller does not directly control the fan so-
use a fan clutch control module supplied by Kysor. lenoid. Rather, the DDEC controller sends its com-
This Electronic Data Monitor (EDM) connects to the mands to the Kysor EDM over circuit D555. On re-
DDEC III data link and to the DDEC III "fan request" ceiving this signal, the EDM acts as a relay to control
circuit. These two connections have replaced the fol- the solenoid valve ground via circuit 234A.
lowing four sensors:
• Temperature gauge sensor, Kysor EDM Commands to the Fan
• Fan control temperature sensor, A/C Pressure Switch Open
• Overheat warning temperature sensor, When the normally closed refrigerant pressure switch
• Low oil pressure warning sensor. opens, the EDM commands the fan on. When the
refrigerant pressure is lowered to the point that the
IMPORTANT: Do not confuse EDM (electronic switch closes, the EDM continues to command the
data monitor) with ECM (DDEC III electronic fan on for an additional 30 seconds, and then turns
control module). the fan off.
Information about coolant temperature and oil pres- Active DDEC III High Coolant
sure travels from engine sensors, through the ECM, Diagnostic
to the EDM. The EDM translates this information
from a digital signal to an analog signal that controls When the EDM has received an active DDEC III di-
the dash gauges and warning lights. The EDM agnostic over the data bus for coolant temperature
makes it possible for a single sensor to control sev- out of range (high), the EDM commands the fan on,
eral components, such as the engine fan, dash regardless of the state (high or low) of the D555
gauges, and dash warning lights. Using a single sen- circuit.
sor prevents problems caused by conflicting informa-
tion from multiple sensors. For example, a coolant DDEC III Command to Turn the Fan
sensor that controls the engine shutdown feature On
might be in a hotter area of the engine, and this sen-
sor might activate the dash warning light before a When the EDM receives a command from the DDEC
sensor in a cooler area turns on the engine fan. With III controller over circuit D555 to turn the fan on, the
a single sensor, and the EDM to translate the sensor EDM, acting as a relay, commands the fan on.
signal, problems like this are less likely to happen.
Data Bus Connection Open
Conditions That Cause the Fan If the data bus connection between the EDM and the
DDEC III controller opens, the EDM commands the
Clutch to Be On fan on. This is an abnormal condition, indicated by a
"wagging" coolant gauge needle, and should be cor-
NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with a fan rected. The EDM controls the coolant temperature
override switch, the fan will go on in response to gauge, and causes the needle to swing slowly be-
this switch, independent of DDEC III or EDM tween approximately 100°F (38°C) and 150°F (66°
control. C).
DDEC III Commands to the Fan

(see Table 1)
With engine brake dynamic braking, the ECM com-
mands the fan on when the compression brake is
selected high and active. This is an optional feature
selected at the time the engine is ordered.

01.18 Kysor Electronic Data Monitor (EDM)
General Description
RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN a volt). The Kysor EDM senses this, and responds
by holding line 234A low, which energizes the fan
DDEC III AND KYSOR EDM control solenoid valve. The Kysor EDM operates as a
relay in response to circuit D555. When D555 is re-
(see Fig. 1)
4
1 D555
2
3
7
18C
34
6 C04 C01
234A
98C
234
12 9
8
29A A
81C 10 11
11 81C C
GND 119B B
A 119 A
3
12 3 15
C
C
D
D
A
A
E
B
F
14
13
EDM
Electronic
Monitor
Data
07/19/94 f200280
A. Grounded to component mounting plate.
1. DDEC III ECM 6. Vigil Lightbar 12. J1587 (+) & (–) Twisted Pair
2. One-Way Connector 7. Air Line (data bus)
3. Two-Way Connector 8. Fan Control Solenoid Valve 13. Diagnostic Connector (LH dash
4. A/C Pressure Switch (NC) 9. Air-Controlled Fan Clutch panel)
5. A/C Receiver-Drier (mounted on 10. Fan Override Switch (optional) 14. Kysor EDM (component
the firewall (FLD) or the RH fwd 11. Ignition-Controlled Circuit mounting plate)
frame rail (FLB)) Breaker (10 amp) 15. Coolant Temperature Gauge
Fig. 1, DDEC III/Kysor EDM Wiring Connections
Circuit D555 leased (now measuring a few volts when connected

to the EDM), the EDM releases line 234A, the fan
If the DDEC III controller wants the fan off, it holds solenoid valve de-energizes and the fan is on.
circuit D555 near to "ground" (within a few tenths of

General Description
J1587 Data Bus drive the coolant gauge (circuit 119) and to illuminate
the Vigil warning lamps and buzzer (circuit 18C for
The Kysor EDM responds to the digital information high coolant temperature and circuit 34 for low oil
on these circuits (twisted pair of wires) for coolant pressure).
temperature, high coolant temperature warning, and
low oil pressure warning. It uses this information to
Fan Status Coolant Temperature Oil Temperature Intake Air

Temperature
Fan On 205° F (96°C) 230° F (110°C) 151° F (66°C)
Fan Off 198° F (92°C) 219° F (104°C) 120° F (49°C)
Table 1, DDEC III Fan Switching Temperatures

Replacement
Replacement (see Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 )
1 2
1
2
02/11/94 f540734
1. Electrical Center
02/11/94 f540733
2. EDM
1. Electrical Center
2. EDM Fig. 2, EDM Location in Conventional Vehicles
Fig. 1, EDM Location in COE Vehicles 5.1 Plug the two wiring harness connectors
into the new EDM.
1. Park the vehicle, set the parking brakes, and
chock the tires. 5.2 Place the new EDM in the electrical cen-
ter, and secure it with the screws re-
2. Disconnect the batteries. moved from the old EDM.
3. Remove the electrical center cover. 5.3 Install the electrical center cover.
On FLB COEs, the electrical center is inside the 6. Connect the batteries.
cab, on top of the tunnel. Remove the screw that
holds the center cover, and lift the cover off the 7. Remove the chocks from the tires.
electrical center.
On FLD Conventionals, the electrical center is
inside the cab, below the dash, and between the
driver and passenger seats. Remove the three
screws that hold the cover, then lift the cover up
and pull it back, off the electrical center.
4. Remove the EDM.
4.1 Disconnect the two wiring harness con-
nectors that plug into the EDM.
4.2 Remove the screws that hold the EDM to
the electrical center, and remove the
EDM.
5. Install the new EDM.

Troubleshooting
System Checks A/C Pressure Switch

The switch should be closed when the A/C is off.
Fan Solenoid Valve Plumbing This can be checked with an ohmmeter. If it is sus-
pected that the refrigerant charge is wrong, and is
The valve should be plumbed so that the fan is off
keeping the switch open, quickly unscrew the pres-
when the solenoid is energized electronically. This
sure switch from the receiver-drier and, using an
can be checked by disconnecting circuit 234A from
ohmmeter, check that the switch is closed. If it is
the EDM and energizing the solenoid valve by con-
closed, the switch may be ok, and it may be neces-
necting 234A to ground. Vehicle air pressure must be
sary to recharge the A/C system. However, it is also
up, and the key switch in the run position, so that the
possible that the switch has lost its correct opening
valve will have 12 volts supplied to it. The valve can
and closing pressure settings. But if the switch is
be heard operating when the engine is not running. If
open when removed from the receiver-drier, it is defi-
the fan locks up under these conditions, it is plumbed
nitely either the wrong switch, or it is malfunctioning.
with the wrong logic.
D555 Input to EDM Open Data Bus

If the data bus is open or the data bus lines have
If the Kysor EDM is operating correctly, it is possible
been reversed, the coolant needle "wags" or swings
to see that it responds to circuit D555 by "grounding"
back and forth (between approximately 100° F and
this input of the EDM. There is an inline connector
150° F) to indicate that the Kysor EDM has lost its
on this circuit near the EDM that can be unplugged
data bus connection to the engine. Probably it has
to do this check. When the input is "grounded" (with
become unplugged at the two-way inline connector
a clip lead or jumper wire), the fan should be off.
near the SAE (Deutsch) 6-pin diagnostic connector.
When the input is open, (disconnected from ground),
The two-way connector is located behind the panel
the fan should be on or locked up. This check works
on which the data bus connector is mounted. On ini-
only if everything else in the system is ok. It is a
tial startup, it is important to wait 10 seconds to ob-
good way to determine if the EDM is installed cor-
serve whether the coolant gauge needle is swinging.
rectly. (When doing this check, the A/C should be off
The EDM goes through a normal startup check
so that the A/C pressure switch is closed.)
(sweeps the coolant gauge needle and illuminates
the high coolant temperature and low oil pressure
A/C Pressure Switch Input to EDM lamps), then waits 10 seconds before indicating that
If the Kysor EDM is operating correctly, it is possible the data bus is disconnected. The fan stays on if the
to see that it responds to the pressure switch input data bus is disconnected.
by disconnecting the EDM from the pressure switch.
The switch is on the receiver-drier, and there is an DDEC Diagnostic Tool
inline two-way connector near this switch. With the
This tool may be used to observe air intake tempera-
engine at idle and the A/C off, the fan should engage
ture, coolant temperature, oil pressure, and the state
(go on) when the EDM is disconnected from the
of line D555 (port A2 on the DDEC III controller).
pressure switch. On the other hand, to check that the
When reading the state of port A2, the DDEC reader
fan will go off in response to this input, connect cir-
cuit 98C to "ground" (the fan should go off in about says FAN ON when the fan is physically off. The
reader is really saying that the output transistor for
30 seconds). A quick way to do this is to short the
port A2 is on. When the ouput transistor is on, the
two-way connector pins together. This will supply a
line goes low, and a low into the EDM on line D555
ground to circuit 98C (this also ensures that the
ground wire in the two-way connector is grounded). If means the fan is off. Thus, when the reader says A2
the fan does not go off with the EDM disconnected FAN OFF, the fan is on; when the reader says A2
FAN ON, the fan is off. The tool may also be used to
from the pressure switch, measure the voltage at cir-
toggle the output on and off in an interactive test.
cuit 98C (the wire end that goes to the EDM). With
the inline two-way connector disconnected, the EDM
end of circuit 98C should read approximately 12
volts.

Troubleshooting
DDEC III Temperature Sensor

Diagnostics
The engine controller will not report a failure for
these sensors (oil and coolant) until after the engine
has been running for eight minutes. According to De-
troit Diesel, the controller cannot distinguish between
an inoperative sensor and a cold sensor, so it is nec-
essary to heat up the engine before valid checks are
possible for sensors out of range.
Troubleshooting
For an applicable troubleshooting flow chart,
see Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, or Fig. 4 .
NOTE: Figure 1 shows the EDM power up

sequence, and Figure 2 shows how the EDM
normally operates. These figures are provided to
help give a better understanding of how the sys-
tem operates.

Troubleshooting
Ignition On.
Set gauge drive to 0.
Turn on low oil pressure and

high coolant temperature
warning lights.
Turn fan off (Free Wheeling).
Have 5 seconds No
passed?
Yes
Stop self test. Increment gauge drive.
Turn off low oil pressure and

high coolant temperature
warning lights.
Return gauge to 100 F.
Begin monitoring
data bus and
discrete inputs.
07/19/94 f040247
Fig. 1, EDM Power Up Sequence

Troubleshooting
Read J1587
data bus.
No
Is data OK?
Yes
Use PID 110

information to drive
gauge.
Sweep gauge from
100 to 150 F.
Is PID 100 Yes

Error present?
No
If no error for 5 seconds

turn off Low Oil Pressure
Light Low Oil
warning lamp.
Pressure
warning lamp.
Yes Is PID 110

Error present?
No
If no error for 5 seconds

turn off High Coolant
Light High Coolant Temp. warning lamp.
Temperature
warning lamp.
Open
Is Fan Request
from ECM?
Ground
Open Is A/C
Override circuit?
Ground
Is Yes
override timer
Set override timer = 0?
to 30 seconds.
No
Decrement
timer.
Turn off fan.
Run fan.
07/19/94 f040248
Fig. 2, EDM Normal Operation

Troubleshooting
Check Fan Control

Solenoid (disconnect
wire 234A).
Problem is with Fan

Control Solenoid
or Clutch Plumbing No
Fan runs?
(check with engine
running and with
full air pressure). Yes
Reconnect wire
234A and proceed.
Open Override
input (98C).
Fan runs and

No Check override
continues to run for 30
input at EDM with
seconds after 98C is
98C open.
restored?
Yes
Override GND Check for short to

input is? ground on line to EDM
Open ECM Fan else EDM is defective.
Request (D555).
12V
EDM is
Check fan request No defective.
Fan runs until
input at EDM with
D555 restored?
D555 open.
Yes
Check for short to GND Use DDR or simulated

Fan request
ground on line to EDM temperature sensor error
input is?
else EDM is defective. to cause ECM to command
fan on electronically.
>2V
EDM is EDM is defective or

defective. No ECM fan request driver
Fan runs?
is defective, try EDM
first (it’s less expensive).
Yes
EDM system is
good, check ECM
and sensors.
07/19/94 f040249
Fig. 3, EDM Troubleshooting Guide (Fan Never Runs or Fails to Run When it Should)

Troubleshooting
No Does EDM
Power Up test operate
normally?
Yes
Check power and Sweeping from 100 to 150 F

Gauge is?
ground to EDM.
Stable
Is High Fan running is normal,

Yes Is supply Yes
Temp warning EDM is not getting
OK? J1587 data (Data(+) and
lamp on?
Data(−)).
No No
Check Fan Request Check for ground,

Defective Determine cause (D555 and open or reversed
EDM. of no power. Override Input (98C). data bus wires.
Are both at No
Ground (less than
0.5 volt)?
Yes
Is Low Oil
No
Temp warning lamp Fan running is normal,
Disconnect A/C
also on? check override circuit or
pressure
ECM and sensors as
switch.
Yes needed.
May be short to ignition

on wire 234A, 18C or
Voltage on
34, causing shutdown of 0 Volts
98C with module
all EDM output drivers.
connected is?
= IGN voltage
Pin B of EDM 6 pin

Fan running is normal, Reconnect A/C connector not
investigate why ECM pressure switch. making contact.
is sending error.
Bad connector,
Try grounding wire pin, or EDM.
234A directly.
Yes Does the

fan stop?
No
Problem is with fan

EDM is control solenoid and/
at fault. or clutch plumbing.
07/19/94 f040250
Fig. 4, EDM Troubleshooting Guide (Fan Runs All the Time)

Caterpillar 3406E Electronic Engine 01.19
General Information
General Information (See Fig. 1) switch, service brake and clutch switches and the
parking brake switch also control the engine system.
The Caterpillar 3406E electronic engine system pro- Additional parts include a throttle position sensor and
a standard SAE diagnostic communications data link
vides electronic engine control and engine warning
and shutdown features to prevent engine damage. ( see Fig. 2).
2 4 6 7
18
1 1
8
3 5
9
10
11
15
12
14
13
16
17
08/19/95 f010968
1. Engine Speed/Timing Sensor 11. ECM Connector J2/P2.
2. Engine Speed/Timing Sensor Connector P9/J9 12. ECM Connector J1/P1.
3. Fuel Temperature Sensor 13. Electronic Control Module (ECM)
4. Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor. 14. Personality Module (not used on 1996 engines)
5. Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Connector P22/J122. 15. Vehicle Speed/TDC Connector P24/J24.
6. Injector Connector J5/P5. 16. Atmospheric Pressure Sensor
7. Boost Pressure Sensor. 17. Timing Calibration Port
8. Engine Cylinder Head Ground Stud. 18. Coolant Temperature Sensor
9. Boost Pressure Sensor Connector P3/J3.
10. Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Connector
J21/P21
Fig. 1, Caterpillar 3406E Electronic Engine

Under normal operating conditions, the system con- When an emergency occurs (a loss of oil pressure
trols the engine with an electronic control module for example, or low engine coolant) the electronic
(ECM), a timing advance unit, and an electronic gov- engine system has optional engine protection fea-
ernor, all of which are located on the engine. Inside tures that will warn the driver, then cut the vehicle
the cab, the cruise control switches, engine brake

01.19 Caterpillar 3406E Electronic Engine
General Information
Five of these functions: cruise control, idle shutdown

timer, BrakeSaver (optional), Jake brake (optional),
and PTO governing, are driver-activated, and are
controlled by switches mounted to the right of the
ignition switch. When the vehicle is parked, the
switches control the PTO; when moving, the switches
control the cruise control. With the vehicle parked
and the engine not running, the cruise control
switches are used to check the ECM. The remaining
functions occur automatically and according to pro-
grammed specifications.
Vehicles equipped with the electronic engine system
use a VIGIL I lightbar. See Fig. 3. When an emer-
gency occurs, the "check engine" light and/or a spe-
cific warning light (low oil pressure, etc.) on the light-
2
bar will come on as a warning to the driver. For low
oil pressure, low air pressure, or high coolant tem-
1 perature, a warning buzzer will also sound. Since the
01/26/94 f010168b oil pressure and the coolant temperature are moni-
1. 6-Pin SAE J1587/1708 Diagnostic Connector tored by both the VIGIL and the Caterpillar systems,
2. Upper Steering Column Cover Panel either one or both systems can activate in an emer-
gency. If the Caterpillar system activates, only the
Fig. 2, Diagnostic Data Link Location "check engine" light will light. If the VIGIL system ac-
tivates, either the low oil pressure or coolant tem-
speed and shut down the engine, depending on the
perature lights will go on. The parameters are about
level of protection the customer prefers.
the same for the Caterpillar and VIGIL high coolant
A personality module or ratings personality module is temperature warning systems, so those systems
attached inside of the ECM. It contains all of the in- should activate simultaneously. The Caterpillar low oil
structions (software) for the ECM and performance pressure warning system is more sensitive than the
maps for a specific horsepower family. A 3406E en- VIGIL, the Caterpillar system judges the oil pressure
gine has the following electronic functions: in relation to engine rpm so the Caterpillar system
• Electronic governing may indicate an emergency before the VIGIL system.
• Control of fuel-to-air ratio 1 2 3

• Torque rise shaping
E F C D G
• System diagnostics
• Customer specified parameters
• Vehicle speed limiting 01/26/94 f600551b
• Progressive shift control 1. Check Engine Light
2. Shutdown Light (or Stop Engine Light if the derate
• PTO governor protection mode is specified)
• Cold mode operation 3. Lightbar Options
• BrakeSaver (optional) Fig. 3, VIGIL I Lightbar
• Jake brake (optional) NOTE: On 3406E electronic engines, the VIGIL
• Idle shutdown timer I lightbar is not equipped with a warning light for
• Cruise control low coolant level. If coolant is needed, only the
"check engine" light will come on.

General Information
Caterpillar 3406E electronic engines have the follow- THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
ing optional engine protection warning and shutdown
features: The throttle position sensor links the throttle pedal
with the injector pump by way of the electronic con-
• Low oil pressure trol module. It replaces conventional throttle linkage.
• High coolant temperature
• Intake manifold air temperature
SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS
• Low coolant level A Caterpillar electronic engine has built-in diagnostics
to ensure that all components are working correctly.
Depending on the customer’s preference, the 3406E Intermittent engine problems are stored in memory,
engine protection system can be set at one of four and remain there until the ignition is turned off. If
levels. At the first level, the system is off. The second there is a problem with the system, the "check en-
level will activate the warnings. The third level will gine" light on the dash lightbar will stay on instead of
activate the warnings when an emergency situation going out after 10 seconds.
occurs and then cut engine power if the situation
worsens, but will not shut down the engine. At the If the "check engine" light comes on and stays on
fourth level of engine protection, the system will acti- after initial startup the system has detected a fault.
vate the warnings, cut engine power and shut down The "check engine" light or service tools can be used
the engine as the emergency situation worsens. to identify the fault code.
Each vehicle is programmed with the level of emer- The dash-mounted cruise control switches are used
gency engine protection specified by the customer. to check the ECM for system faults. With the cruise
To change that level, the customer can return the control switch OFF, move the SET/RESUME switch
vehicle to a Caterpillar or Freightliner dealership for to the resume position. The "check engine" light will
reprogramming with a Caterpillar electronic control begin to flash to indicate a two-digit diagnostic code
analyzer programmer (ECAP) service tool. while the SET/RESUME switch is held in the RE-
SUME position. This sequence of flashes represents
ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE the system diagnostic message. The first sequence
of flashes adds up to the first digit of the diagnostic
The electronic control module, mounted on the left code. After a one second pause, a second sequence
rear side of the engine cylinder block, controls the of flashes will occur which represents the second
injection pump and the injection timing. It also pro- digit of the diagnostic code. See Fig. 4. Any addi-
vides electrical power to all of the engine mounted tional diagnostic codes will follow, after a three sec-
sensors and actuators, and monitors the overall op- ond pause, and will be displayed in the same man-
eration of the system. Reverse voltage polarity pro- ner. See Table 1 for a list of the diagnostic codes.
tection and resistance to vehicle power system volt-
age "swings" or "surges" (due to sudden alternator
load, etc.) have been designed into the ECM. The
A
electronic control module is cooled by fuel circulating
through a manifold between two circuit boards in the
control module. 04/29/93 f010613
A. Two Second Pause

TIMING ADVANCE UNIT
Fig. 4, Diagnostic Code Example, Code 25
Injection timing depends on engine rpm, load, and
other operation factors. The ECM knows where top CUSTOMER SPECIFIED
center of cylinder number one is from the signal pro-
vided by the engine speed/timing sensor. It decides PARAMETERS
when injection should occur relative to top center and The customer specified parameters include:
provides the signal to the injector at the desired time.
• Engine power rating
• Vehicle identification number

General Information
• PTO vehicle speed limit (PTO VSL) is not returned by the expansion process. This loss
of energy results in vehicle braking at the rear
• PTO engine RPM limit (PTO RPM)
wheels.
• Low gears limit
• Intermediate gears limit BRAKESAVER (OPTIONAL)
• Engine RPM at vehicle speed limit (engine The BrakeSaver permits the operator to control the
RPM at VSL) speed reduction of the vehicle on grades, curves, or
at any time when speed reduction is necessary but
• Geardown protection long applications of the service brakes are not de-
• Top engine limit (TEL) sired.
• Vehicle speed limit (VSL) During downhill operation, the crankshaft is turned by
the rear wheels (through the differential, driveshaft,
• High gear turn on speed (HiGrOn)
transmission, and clutch). To reduce the speed of the
• Low cruise control set limit (LCC) vehicle, an application of a braking force can be
• High cruise control speed set limit (HCC) made to the crankshaft. The BrakeSaver does this by
converting the energy of rotation into heat which is
• Retarder coast/latch removed by the engine cooling system.
• Idle shutdown timer
ENGINE PROTECTION FEATURES
The customer specified parameters may be secured
by customer passwords. An ECM may have all pa- The Caterpillar 3406E engine electronic control con-
rameters programmed or any combination of param- sists of two main components: the electronic control
eters programmed. A brief explanation of each of the module and the personality module. The ECM is the
customer specified parameters can be found in the computer and the personality module is the software
Caterpillar 3406E Operation and Maintenance for the computer (the personality module also stores
Manual. the operating maps that define horsepower, torque
curves, rpm, etc). The two work together (along with
JAKE BRAKE (OPTIONAL) sensors to "see" and solenoids/injectors to "act") to
control the engine. Neither one can do anything by
The Jake brake is controlled from the ECM and aids itself.
the operator in slowing and controlling the vehicle on
grades and curves, or anytime when speed reduction The electronic control module monitors engine oil
is necessary but long applications of the service pressure, coolant temperature, intake manifold air
brakes are not desired. In downhill operation, or any temperature, and coolant level. There are four cus-
slowdown condition, the engine crankshaft is turned tomer programmable levels for Caterpillar engine
by the rear wheels (through the differential, drive- monitoring:
shaft, transmission, and clutch). • Off
When the Jake brake is activated, braking power is • Warning (factory default)
accomplished by opening the engine’s exhaust
valves near the top of the compression stroke to re- • Derate
lease the highly compressed air, with the energy it • Shutdown
represents, into the exhaust system. No combustion
The sensor measures absolute oil pressure from 0
occurs to produce positive force on the piston since
PSI (0 kPa) to 100 psi (690 kPa) at the gallery. The
the Jake brake can only be activated (providing the
difference between the pressure measured by this
retarding or slowing effect) when the engine is in a
sensor (oil pressure) and atmospheric pressure is oil
"no fuel" mode. The release of the compressed air
pressure as displayed by service tools and communi-
pressure to the atmosphere prevents the return of
cated over the data link. The ECM uses this sensor
energy to the engine piston on the expansion
input only if the parameter for engine monitoring is
(power) stroke. The result is an energy loss, since
programmed to warning, derate, or shutdown.
the work done by compression of the cylinder charge

General Information
The sensor measures oil pressure only after the en- • Engine must be at operating temperature
gine has been running for about 10 seconds. This • Vehicle must be at "0" mph
way system oil pressure has a chance to build to op-
erating levels at engine startup. If after the first 10 • No engine load
seconds of engine operation the oil pressure drops Ninety seconds before the programmed idle time is
below 45 psi (312 kPa) for two seconds, the lightbar reached, the diagnostic lamp will start to flash at a
"check engine" light activates. Depending on the rapid rate. The ability to override the idle shutdown
level of engine protection selected by the customer, timer is determined via customer parameter "Allow
after 10 seconds of low oil pressure, the system cuts Idle Shutdown Override". If programmed to allow an
engine horsepower to 160, engine RPM to 1350, and override, and the operator moves the clutch or ser-
vehicle speed to 45 mph (72 km/h). If oil pressure is vice brake during this final ninety second warning,
low for more than 30 seconds, the engine is shut the timer is overridden until it is reset (a diagnostic
down. event code is also logged). A reset occurs when the
The coolant temperature sensor is mounted in the ECM detects the vehicle has moved.
water jacket, in the front of the engine housing (
see Fig. 1). When coolant temperature is below 64°F Diagnostic
(18°C) the system puts the engine in cold mode, lim- Flash
iting engine power, advance timing, and adjusting the Codes
low idle to 600 rpm to improve warm-up time. The Fault Description
system will keep the engine in cold mode until cool- Code
ant temperature rises above 64°F (18°C) or until the
00 Brake Switch Fault
engine has been running for 12 minutes. The system
will then stop the cold mode and allow the engine to 01 Idle Shutdown Override
operate normally. 02 Event Recorder Data Lost
If the engine coolant temperature rises above 216°F 12 Coolant Level Sensor Fault
(102°C) for more than two seconds, the lightbar
13 Fuel Temperature Sensor Fault
"check engine" light comes on. Depending on the
level of protection specified by the customer, the sys- 14 Retarder Solenoid Fault
tem cuts engine power ten seconds after the tem- 15 Injection Actuation Pressure Sensor Fault
perature reaches 219°F (104°C). The system cuts
17 Injection Actuation Pressure Out of Range
engine horsepower to 160 and vehicle speed to 45
mph (72 km/h). Thirty seconds later, if the problem 18 Injection Actuation Pressure Control Valve
persists, the shutdown light comes on, and the en- Driver Fault
gine is shut down. 19 A/C High Pressure Switch Open Circuit
The low coolant level sensor is installed in the radia- 21 Sensor Supply Voltage Fault
tor top or surge tank. If specified by the customer, if 22 Rack Sensor Fault
the coolant in the tank drops below the sensor for 10
seconds, the system cuts engine output to 160 23 Timing Sensor Fault
horsepower, and vehicle speed to 45 mph (72 km/h). 24 Oil Pressure Sensor Fault
If the coolant level drops below the sensor for 30
25 Boost Pressure Sensor Fault
seconds, the engine is shut down.
26 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Fault
To conserve fuel, the idle shutdown timer can be pro-
grammed to shut down the engine. Depending on the 27 Coolant Temperature Sensor Fault
level of protection specified by the customer, the en- 28 Throttle Sensor Calibration Fault
gine will shut down if it operates under reduced load
29 PTO Throttle Sensor Fault
with the vehicle stationary for a customer-defined
period of time. This feature does not shut down the 31 Loss of Vehicle Speed Signal
vehicle electrical power. The following conditions 32 Throttle Position Sensor Fault
must be met to enable the idle shutdown timer:
34 Engine RPM Signal Fault
• Idle shutdown timer has been selected

General Information
Diagnostic
Flash
Codes
Fault Description
Code
36 Vehicle Speed Signal Fault
37 Fuel Pressure Sensor Fault
38 Intake Manifold Temperature Sensor Fault
39 Injection Actuator Pressure System Fault
41 Vehicle Overspeed Warning
42 Sensor Calibration Fault
43 Rack System Fault
44 Timing System Fault
46 Low Oil Pressure Warning
47 Idle Shutdown Occurrence
48 Excessive Engine Power
49 Inlet Air Heater Fault
51 Intermittent Battery Power to the ECM
52 Personality Module Fault
53 Electronic Control Module Fault
56 Check Customer- or System Parameters
58 Powertrain Data Link Fault
59 Incorrect Engine Software
61 High Coolant Temperature Warning
62 Low Coolant Level Warning
63 Low Fuel Pressure Warning
64 High Intake Manifold Temperature Warning
65 High Fuel Temperature Warning
72 Cylinder 1 or 2 Fault
Table 1, Diagnostic Flash Codes

Engine Ports 01.20
Engine Port Diagrams

Use the following diagrams to identify engine ports:
• For a Caterpillar 3176 Engine, see Fig. 1 .
• For a Caterpillar 3406 Engine, see Fig. 2.
• For a Caterpillar C–10 or C–12 Engine, see
Fig. 3.
• For a Cummins M11 Engine, see Fig. 4.
• For a Cummins N14 Engine, see Fig. 5.
• For a Detroit Diesel Series 50 Engine, see
Fig. 6.
Fig. 7.
Fig. 8.

01.20 Engine Ports
Reference Diagram: D01−20665, Rev. Ltr. C

04/26/96 f011069
Fig. 1, Caterpillar 3176 Engine Ports

Engine Ports 01.20
Reference Diagram: D01−22536, Rev. Ltr. B

04/26/96 f011071
Fig. 2, Caterpillar 3406 Engine Ports

01.20 Engine Ports
1 WATER SUPPLY, 1/2 NPT
2 WATER INLET
3 WATER RETURN, 1/2 NPT

1
4 OIL, 1/8 NPT
5 WATER DRAIN, 3/8 NPT
6 OIL PAN CONNECTION, 1/2 NPT
7 WATER OUTLET
8 WATER RETURN, 3/4 NPT
9 FUEL RETURN, 5/8−18
10 OIL CONNECTION, 1 NPT
11 MAGNETIC PICK−UP
12 FUEL INLET, 7/8−14
13 OIL PRESSURE CONN,9/16−18
14 AIR MANIFOLD PORT, 1/4 NPT 16
15 AIR MANIFOLD PORT, 9/16−18
16 WATER, 1/2 NPT
17 ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
18 OIL DRAIN, 1 1/8−12
19 VENT TO RADIATOR, 3/8 NPT
7 19 9
14
15
3
17
13 12
11
2
18 10
18
10
Reference Diagram: D01−23561, Rev. Ltr. −

04/26/96 f011066
Fig. 3, Caterpillar C-10 and C-12 Engine Ports

Engine Ports 01.20
Reference Diagram: D01−23023, Rev. Ltr. A

04/29/96 f011072
Fig. 4, Cummins M11 Engine Ports

01.20 Engine Ports
Reference: Diagram D01−23639, Rev. Ltr. −

04/26/96 f011067
Fig. 5, Cummins N14 Engine Ports

Engine Ports 01.20
Reference Diagram: D01−22631, Rev. Ltr. −

05/01/96 f011068
Fig. 6, Detroit Diesel Series 50 Engine Ports

01.20 Engine Ports
Reference Diagram: D01−23378 Chg. Ltr. A

04/10/96 f011054

Engine Ports 01.20
Reference Diagram: D01−16409, Rev. Ltr. G

04/26/96 f011070

EPA07 Engine Information 01.21
General Information
Principles of Operation Both active and passive regen happen automatically,

without driver input. When operating conditions do
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) man- not allow for active or passive regen, the vehicle may
dated that all engines built after December 31, 2006 require a driver-activated parked regen, which takes
meet lower exhaust emissions levels: 20 to 60 minutes, depending on ambient conditions.
• 1.1 grams per brake horsepower hour (g/bhp- Over time, ash collects in the ATS and needs to be
hr) of nitrogen oxides (NOx) removed through cleaning at specific intervals. For
ATS maintenance and repair information, see the
• 0.01 g/bhp-hr of particulate matter (PM) engine manufacturer’s service literature.
To meet the EPA07 requirements, most engine
manufacturers developed an aftertreatment system Service Literature Coverage
(ATS). The ATS varies according to engine and ve-
hicle configuration, but instead of a muffler, an ATS Engine service procedures in this manual are limited
has an aftertreatment device (ATD) that outwardly to components installed by Daimler Trucks North
resembles a muffler. America. See the following sections for information
Inside the ATD on Cummins, Detroit Diesel, and on EPA07-compliant parts and systems installed by
Mercedes-Benz engines, the exhaust first passes Daimler Trucks North America:
over the diesel oxidation catalyst (DOC), which uses • Section 01.00, Engine Mounts
a chemical process to break down pollutants into
less harmful components. The exhaust then passes • Section 30.05, Electronic Throttle Control, Will-
through the diesel particulate filter (DPF), which traps iams
soot particles. See Fig. 1. • Section 49.03, Aftertreatment System, EPA07
Caterpillar ATDs have a DPF, but do not have a Complete engine coverage including engine adjust-
DOC. Instead, CAT engines burn diesel fuel at the ment, preventive maintenance, and engine repair are
regeneration head to superheat the exhaust and re- covered in each engine manufacturer’s service litera-
duce it to less harmful components. CAT engines ture:
also utilize Clean Gas Induction (CGI), a process in
• Caterpillar: www.cat.com
which some of the exhaust gas downstream of the
DPF is recirculated into the air intake system. See • Cummins: www.cummins.com
Fig. 2. • Detroit Diesel: www.detroitdiesel.com
The DPF core in all ATDs is comprised of ceramic • Mercedes-Benz: www.detroitdiesel.com
channels that are blocked off at alternate ends to
force the exhaust through the porous walls. Periodic inspection of the ATS is required. For in-
structions, see the Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance
As soot accumulates in the DPF, it periodically needs Manual.
to be converted to its basic parts: carbon dioxide,
water, and ash. The conversion takes place through For driver pre- and post-trip inspection information,
an event in the ATD referred to as regeneration see the FLD Conventional Driver’s Manual.
(regen). If the exhaust temperature is high enough,
the trapped soot is reduced to ash in a process
called passive regen, which occurs as the vehicle is
Definition of Terms
driven normally. Refer to the following terms for a better understand-
Passive regen, however, cannot always keep the ing of EPA07 engines.
DPF clean, so the ATD must also periodically un- Ash Unburnable solids that remain after regenera-
dergo active regen. During active regen, extra fuel is tion in the ATD.
injected into the exhaust stream to superheat and
reduce the soot trapped in the DPF to ash. Active Aftertreatment Device (ATD) A device that re-
regen happens only when the vehicle is moving moves pollutants from exhaust gas after the gas
above a certain speed, as determined by the engine leaves the combustion chamber.
manufacturer.

01.21 EPA07 Engine Information
General Information
5
3
1
03/26/2009 9 8 f040783
1. Exhaust Gas Recirculation 4. Charge Air Cooler (CAC) 7 Aftertreatment Device (ATD)
(EGR) Cooler 5. Turbocharger 8. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)
2. EGR Valve 6. Hydrocarbon Doser 9. Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC)
3. Intake Throttle Valve
Fig. 1, ATS (Detroit Diesel engine shown)
Aftertreatment System (ATS) The entire exhaust in the ATD on Cummins, Detroit Diesel, and
system from the turbocharger to the exhaust stack or Mercedes-Benz engines.
tail pipe. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) A component inthe
Clean Gas Induction (CGI) A process whereby ATD that captures particulate matter from the ex-
small amounts of exhaust gas are drawn down- haust gas, preventing discharge from the tailpipe.
stream of the DPF and recirculated into the air intake
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) A process
system. CGI is used in CAT engines only. whereby exhaust is recirculated into the air intake
Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) A flow-through system, creating lower cylinder temperatures. EGR is
device that enhances the oxidation of hydrocarbons used in Cummins, Detroit Diesel, and Mercedes-
Benz engines only.

EPA07 Engine Information 01.21
General Information
4 5
7 6
03/26/2009 f040784
1. Charge Air Cooler (CAC) 4. CGI Cooler 7 Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)
2. Dual-Stage Turbocharger 5. CGI Line 8. Regeneration Head
3. Clean Gas Induction (CGI) 6. Aftertreatment Device (ATD)
Mixing Valve
Fig. 2, ATS (Caterpillar engine shown)
Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) Air pollutants composed of

nitrogen and oxygen in various forms that contribute
to the formation of smog.
Particulate Matter (PM) Soot particles formed by
incomplete combustion of fuel that contribute to at-
mospheric pollution.
Regeneration (Regen) A process that occurs inside
the ATD whereby accumulated soot is superheated
and burned to ash, carbon dioxide, and water.

Air Intake Ducting 09.00
General Information
General Information 2 4
3
An average diesel truck engine needs over 10,000
gallons (38 000 liters) of clean air for each gallon
(3.8 liters) of fuel burned. So that complete combus-
tion occurs in each engine cylinder, more clean air
than is needed is present in each cylinder. The air
intake system routes this supply of outside air
through an air cleaner, which filters out dust, dirt,
abrasive particles, and other foreign material from
the intake air, without restricting air flow.
From there, the air intake ducting routes this clean 1
air to the engine. 09/11/96 f090167
On COEs, a frontal air duct is mounted on brackets 1. Air Cleaner 3. Bellows
above the radiator. See Fig. 1, and Fig. 2. 2. Intermediate Duct 4. Frontal Duct
2 Fig. 2, Frontal Air Intake System (COE vehicles built

from February, 1993)
1 1
2
4
03/05/96 f090003a
1. Air Intake Duct
2. Mounting Bracket
Fig. 3, Frontal Air Intake System (120 Conventionals)

03/01/93 f090006a On Conventionals with cowl-mounted air cleaners,
1. Air Cleaner 3. Aluminum Tubing the air intake ducting is routed through the side cowl
2. Rubber Elbow 4. Frontal Duct skin. See Fig. 4.
Fig. 1, Frontal Air Intake System (COE vehicles built A lock-up air restriction indicator mounts in a safety
before February, 1993) filter in the under-hood ducting. As an option, the air
restriction indicator or an air restriction gauge mounts
On 120 Conventionals, the frontal air duct is in the dashboard. Nylon tubing connects the remote-
mounted on the underside of the cowl inlet. See mounted indicator or gauge to the safety filter in the
Fig. 3.

09.00 Air Intake Ducting
General Information
ducting. The air restriction indicator or gauge indi-

cates when the air cleaner filter element needs to be
cleaned or replaced. The safety filter protects the
clean-side of the air intake system in case the air
restriction indicator or nylon tubing leaks or is dam-
aged.
02/13/96 f090073a
NOTE: Left air cleaner shown.
Fig. 4, Cowl-Mounted Air Cleaner and Bonnet
(Conventional)

Intake Ducting Replacement
Replacement
(See Fig. 1,Fig. 2,Fig. 3, or Fig. 4)
1 3 2
2 4 2 3
3 2
2 5
2
2
4 3 2
7 2
02/14/96 f090008a
1. Frontal Air Duct 5. Air Cleaner
2. Hose Clamp 6. Turbocharger
3. Rubber Connecting Hose 7. Radiator
4. Aluminum Tube
Fig. 1, Intake Ducting (COE vehicles built before February, 1993)
WARNING CAUTION
Do not operate the engine with any under-hood Do not operate the engine with the air filter ele-
component of the air intake system removed. Se- ment or any air intake component removed. All
rious personal injury can occur if the turbo- air intake parts and connections must be air- and
charger impeller is touched when it is rotating. water-tight. Dirt or dust entering the engine can
cause internal engine damage. Much of the dirt

4
3
09/11/96 f090168
1. Air Cleaner 4. Frontal Duct
2. Intermediate Duct 5. Turbocharger
3. Bellows 6. Radiator
Fig. 2, Intake Ducting (COE vehicles built from February, 1993)
and dust are silicates, which fuse into abrasive For COE vehicles built from February, 1993, re-
glass-like particles when exposed to engine com- move the ducting and the bellows between the
bustion. These particles can grind piston rings, frontal duct and the air cleaner. Also, remove the
pistons, and cylinder liners. ducting between the air cleaner and the engine
inlet.
1. Tilt the cab or hood. For instructions, see the ve-
hicle service manual. 4. On COEs, remove the nuts, washers, and bolts
that attach the frontal duct to the mounting
2. Loosen the hose clamp screws. brackets. See Fig. 5. Remove the frontal duct.
3. For 120 conventionals and COE vehicles built 5. Replace any damaged parts with new identical
before February, 1993, remove the rubber hoses parts.
from the aluminum tubing, air cleaner ports, the
engine inlet, and the frontal duct (COEs). IMPORTANT: Rubber hoses that have been en-
larged, extended, or modified by bonding after

5
2
5
3
7 4
5
5 7 5
8
02/14/96 f090009a
1. Air Intake Duct 5. Hose Clamp
2. Cowl 6. Rubber Connecting Hose
3. Air Cleaner 7. Aluminum Tube
4. Turbocharger 8. Hood
Fig. 3, Intake Ducting (120 Conventional)
original molding, are not acceptable for installa- For COE vehicles built from February, 1993, at-
tion between the air cleaner and the engine. tach the ducting and bellows between the air
cleaner and the frontal duct. Also, attach the
6. On COEs, align the frontal duct mounting holes ducting between the air cleaner and the engine
with the mounting bracket holes. Install the inlet.
washers, nuts, and bolts. Tighten the nuts 108
lbf·in (1220 N·cm). 8. Tighten all hose clamps 70 to 80 lbf·in (800 to
900 N·cm).
7. For 120 conventionals and COE vehicles built
before February, 1993, attach the rubber hoses 9. Return the cab or hood to the operating position.
to the aluminum tubing, air cleaner ports, the en-
gine inlet, and the frontal duct (COEs). Pull the
rubber hoses onto each connection until they
overlap at least 1 inch (25 mm).

4 4
2 3 2 3
3
2
4 2
2
2 2
2
1
2
4
2
3
2
1
03/05/96 f090070a
1. Air Cleaner 3. Rubber Connecting Hose
2. Hose Clamp 4. Intake Ducting
Fig. 4, Cowl-Mounted Intake Ducting (120 Conventional)

09/11/96 f090166
Fig. 5, Frontal Duct Fasteners

Air Cleaner Element 09.01
Air Cleaner Element Replacement
Farr Air Cleaner Element Inspect the new element for shipping damage. If
the element is damaged, do not use it.
Replacement 7. On a COE, install a new element on the mount-
ing bracket. Make sure the inlet adapter is lined
1. Loosen the clamp that attaches the air outlet up with the inlet grid.
tube to the air cleaner. See Fig. 1 for a COE or
Fig. 2 for an FLD Conventional. On an FLD 120, install a new element so that
the inlet grid is lined up with the air intake as-
sembly. Install the mounting straps and secure
3
the clamps.
4
2 NOTE: On Farr air cleaners, the clamps may
require a minor adjustment. To increase clamp
5 tension, the length of the latch must be slightly
shortened. Increase the arc of the spring latch
6 by gently squeezing it with water pump pliers.
1 See Fig. 3. To decrease clamp tension, the
02/14/96 f090001a length of the latch must be slightly increased.
1. Air Outlet Tube Reduce the arc of the spring latch a little at a
2. Clamp time by placing it on a flat surface and applying
3. Mounting Bracket pressure from above until the arc provides mini-
4. Inlet Adapter
5. Inlet Adapter Locator Tabs mum tension when installed.
6. Inlet Grid 8. Place the air outlet tube in the rubber fitting, but
do not tighten the clamp.
Fig. 1, Farr Air Cleaner, COE
IMPORTANT: Place the inlet adapter on the air
2. On a COE, open the clamps on the mounting cleaner element. The sealing gasket on the inlet
brackets and on the inlet adapter. adapter must be in full contact with the air
On an FLD Conventional, open the clamps on cleaner element. There should be no gaps.
the mounting brackets and on the air intake as- Make sure the inlet adapter completely covers
sembly. Remove the mounting straps. the inlet grid on the air cleaner element. None
3. Break the seal of the clean air fitting by slightly
of the openings on the inlet grid should be vis-
twisting the air cleaner element and lifting it at ible.
the same time. Remove the air cleaner element. 9. On a COE, rotate the element so that the inlet
NOTE: If a tool must be used, use care not to adapter locator tabs fit into the two inlet grid
openings as shown in Fig. 1.
puncture or damage the rubber fitting.
4. Before discarding the element, check for signs of Secure the clamps on the mounting brackets and
soot or oil. If there is soot inside the element, on the inlet adapter.
check for leaks in the engine exhaust system, 10. Tighten the clamp that attaches the air outlet
exhaust blow-back into the air intake, or exhaust tube to the air cleaner element.
from other equipment. If the element appears
11. Reset the air restriction indicator and check the
oily, check for fumes escaping from the engine
air restriction. Initial restriction readings with a
crankcase breather. Excessive oil mist shortens
new element will vary with air cleaner design and
the life of any dry-type filter and must be cor-
installation. Air restriction of 3 to 10 inH 2O is
rected.
normal.
5. Discard the element. Never attempt to clean and
reuse an element. If air restriction remains abnormally high after
replacing the air cleaner element, check for
6. Inspect all the ducts, clamps, and fittings for vis- plugged intake screens, damaged rain caps, or
ible damage. Repair or replace damaged parts. ducts plugged with snow, leaves, or debris. If

09.01 Air Cleaner Element
debris or snow has plugged the duct, see Sec- engine crankcase breather. Excessive oil mist
tion 54.09, Subject 300, for instructions. shortens the life of any dry-type filter and must
1 3
3
6
5
02/20/96 f090002a
1. Air Outlet Tube 3. Mounting Bracket 5. Mounting Strap
2. Clamp 4. Air Intake Assembly 6. Air Cleaner
Fig. 2, Farr Air Cleaner, FLD Conventional
Donaldson Air Cleaner be corrected.

4. Check the housing and sealing surfaces for dam-
Element Replacement age or dirt buildup that may cause sealing prob-
lems. Remove all dirt.
1. Open the three clamps or remove the three cap-
nuts on the air cleaner housing, and remove the
housing end cover. See Fig. 4. NOTICE
2. Remove the air cleaner filter element. Do not leave any dirt inside the air cleaner hous-
3. Before discarding the used element, check for ing. If dirt gets inside the filter element, it may
signs of soot or oil. If there is soot inside the ele- get into the engine and cause damage.
ment, check for leaks in the engine exhaust sys- 5. Wipe the inside of the air cleaner housing with a
tem, exhaust blow-back into the air intake, or clean damp cloth.
exhaust from other equipment. If the element
appears oily, check for fumes escaping from the

7. Install a new filter element. Place the end cover

on the housing, then secure the clamps or install
the three capnuts on the air cleaner housing.
Torque the capnuts 8 lbf·ft (11 N·m).
NOTE: On Donaldson air cleaners, the clamps
may require a minor adjustment. To increase
clamp tension, the length of the latch must be
slightly shortened. Increase the arc of the spring
latch by gently squeezing it with water pump
pliers. See Fig. 3. To decrease clamp tension,
the length of the latch must be slightly in-
creased. Reduce the arc of the spring latch a
little at a time by placing it on a flat surface and
02/16/96 f090004a applying pressure from above until the reduced
arc provides minimum tension when installed.
Fig. 3, Increasing Clamp Tension
8. Reset the air restriction indicator and check air
restriction. Initial restriction readings with a new
element will vary with air cleaner design and in-
stallation. Air restriction of 3 to 10 inH 2O is nor-
mal.
If air restriction remains abnormally high after
replacing the filter element, check for plugged
intake screens, damaged rain caps, or ducts
plugged with snow, leaves, or debris. If debris or
snow has plugged the duct, see Section 54.09,
Subject 300, for instructions.
Cowl-Mounted Air Cleaner

Element Replacement
1. Remove the four capnuts on the air cleaner
cover. See Fig. 5.
02/20/96 f090083a NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with cowl-
NOTE: FLD installation shown. mounted mirrors, remove the lower cowl-side
Fig. 4, Clamps, Donaldson Air Cleaner
mirror brace.
2. Remove the air cleaner cover from the air
6. Check all ducts, clamps, and fittings for visible cleaner housing.
damage. Replace damaged parts that cannot be
repaired. 3. Remove the air cleaner filter element.
4. Before discarding the used element, check for
NOTICE signs of soot or oil. If there is soot inside the ele-
ment, check for leaks in the engine exhaust sys-
Do not clean or reuse air filter elements. Cleaning tem, exhaust blow-back into the air intake, or
and reusing the elements increases the chances exhaust from other equipment. If the element
of dirt entering the engine. Always replace with a appears oily, check for fumes escaping from the
new one. engine crankcase breather. Excessive oil mist
shortens the life of any dry-type filter and must
be corrected.

8. Install a new air cleaner element. Never attempt

1 to clean and reuse an element.
9. Install the air cleaner housing cover and capnuts.
Torque the capnuts in a cross pattern to 96 lbf·in
(1080 N·cm).
2 4
6
5
02/13/96 f090072a
1. Bonnet 5. Air Cleaner Element

2. Clamp 6. Air Cleaner Bracket
3. Air Cleaner Cover 7. Air Cleaner Housing
4. Capnut
Fig. 5, Cowl-Mounted Air Cleaner, Nelson Air Cleaner

Element
5. Check the housing and sealing surfaces for dam-

age or dirt buildup that may cause sealing prob-
lems. Remove all dirt.
NOTICE
Do not leave any dirt inside the air cleaner hous-
ing. If dirt gets inside the filter element, it may
get into the engine and cause damage.
6. Wipe the inside of the housing with a damp
cloth.
7. Check all ducts, clamps, and fittings for visible
damage. Replace damaged parts that cannot be
repaired.

Air Cleaner Element Restriction Checking
Element Restriction Checking (automatic-reset) (Fig. 3), a hose connects the indi-
cator or gauge to the safety fitting in the air intake
piping.
The restriction of air flow through the air cleaner ele-
ment is measured at the tap in the air transfer tube
joined to the cleaner outlet.
On vehicles with an intake-duct-mounted restriction
indicator (manual- or automatic-reset), the indicator is
mounted in a safety fitting in the air intake piping.
See Fig. 1.
02/03/93 f090081
Fig. 2, Optional Dash-Mounted Manual-Reset Air

Restriction Indicator
4
02/13/96 f090159
1. Air Intake Piping 4. Reset Button
2. Safety Fitting
3. Air Restriction
Indicator
Fig. 1, Standard Intake-Duct-Mounted Manual-Reset Air

Restriction Indicator 06/13/95 f600935
Fig. 3, Optional Dash-Mounted Automatic-Reset Air

NOTICE Restriction Gauge
Use the air intake restriction gauge rather than On vehicles without an indicator or gauge, a water
visual inspection to determine if servicing the air manometer or a service gauge must be connected to
filter element is necessary. Removal of the air the air intake ducting to check element restriction.
filter element can cause damage to the primary
seal, which may allow contaminants into the en- – For a vehicle with a manual-reset air restriction
gine, potentially causing engine damage. indicator, check the indicator with the engine
off to see if air restriction equals or exceeds
On vehicles with a dash-mounted restriction indicator the value shown in Table 1 for maximum air
(manual-reset) (Fig. 2) or air restriction gauge restriction at full load and governed rpm. If air

Air Cleaner Element Restriction Checking
restriction is at or above the maximum, push

the reset button on the dash-mounted or
intake-duct-mounted indicator, then operate the
engine at no-load and governed rpm, and com-
pare the indicator reading with the value shown
in Table 1 for maximum air restriction at no-
load and governed rpm.
– For a vehicle with an air restriction gauge, or a
restriction indicator that resets automatically
when the engine is shut down, operate the en-
gine at no-load and governed rpm, and com-
pare the gauge/indicator reading with the value
shown in Table 1 for maximum air restriction at
no-load and governed rpm.
– For a vehicle without a gauge or indicator, test
restriction with a water manometer or a service
gauge. Refer to the test equipment manufac-
turer’s literature for test procedures. Operate
the engine at no-load and governed rpm, and
compare the reading with the value shown in
Table 1 for maximum air restriction at no-load
and governed rpm.
If air restriction equals or exceeds the value shown in
Table 1 for maximum air restriction at no-load and
governed rpm, replace the air cleaner element.
Maximum Air Restriction in Inches of Water (inH 2O)

At Full Load
At No-Load and
Engine and Governed
Governed RPM
RPM
Caterpillar 25 12
Cummins 25 12
Detroit Diesel 20 10
Table 1, Maximum Air Restriction in Inches of Water
(inH 2O)

Charge Air Cooler 09.02
General Information
General Information
The charge air cooler is attached to the front of the
radiator. The charge air cooler is similar to a radiator;
outside ambient air passing through the charge-air-
cooler core cools the engine’s intake air charge. The
air charge leaving the turbocharger is hot com-
pressed air, about 275 to 325°F (135 to 162°C), de-
pending on the ambient temperature. The charge air
cooler reduces this temperature to about 110°F
(43°C), at 77°F (25°C) ambient, before the air charge
enters the engine intake manifold. This temperature
decrease lowers exhaust emissions, improves fuel
economy, and increases horsepower.
In May 1994, the solid-mount CAC used on FLD
120s (including Classic XLs) with 1200 square-inch
metal-end-tank radiators was superseded with a soft-
mount version.
In October 1994, the large and small solid-mount
charge air coolers installed on FLAs and FLBs were
superseded by soft-mount charge air coolers. The
small CAC (also called low-horsepower CAC) has a
core that measures 18.5 inches (47 cm) tall. The
large CAC (also called high-horsepower CAC) has a
core that measures 23.4 inches (60 cm) tall.
The soft-mount CAC can be retrofitted to these ve-
hicles.

CAC Removal and Installation
Removal FLD 120/Classic XL Solid-Mount

1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.
FLA/FLB Solid-Mount
2. Open the hood.
3. Loosen the clamps at both ends of the hoses
2. Tilt the cab. For instructions, see Group 60. that attach the inlet and outlet air piping to the
3. Loosen the hose clamps at both ends of the CAC connections. Push the clamps and hoses
hoses that attach the inlet and outlet air piping to back onto the piping until they are not touching
the charge air cooler (CAC) connections. Push the CAC. See Fig. 2.
the clamps and hoses back onto the piping until 4. Remove the flanged bolts and nuts that attach
they are not touching the CAC. See Fig. 1. the CAC to the lower mounting brackets at the
4. At each of the two CAC upper mounting tabs, forward sides of the radiator.
loosen the two radiator top tank mounting bolts 5. Remove the forward flanged nuts that attach the
until they are just finger-tight. radiator surge tank and the brace-rod bracket
5. At each of the two CAC lower mounting tabs, assemblies to the radiator top channel.
remove the locknut, washer, and hexhead bolt. 6. Slide the CAC off the radiator and remove it from
6. Support both sides of the CAC, then remove the the vehicle.
fasteners from the CAC upper mounting tabs. 7. For a CAC that is mounted on a 1350-square-
Remove the CAC from the vehicle. inch radiator that has aluminum CAC baffles at-
tached to the radiator support channels, remove
FLA/FLB Soft-Mount the six Torx® fasteners that secure the baffles to
the radiator. Discard the aluminum CAC baffles.
2. Remove the grille (FLAs), or grille and surround FLD 120/Classic XL Soft-Mount
assembly (FLBs). Remove the tunnel cross-
braces (FLBs). 1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.
3. Tilt the cab. For instructions, see Group 60. 2. Remove the grille.
4. Loosen the hose clamps at both ends of the con- 3. Open the hood.
voluted hoses that attach the inlet and outlet air 4. Loosen the hose clamps at both ends of the con-
piping to the CAC. Push the clamps and hoses voluted hoses that attach the inlet and outlet air
back onto the piping, until they are not touching piping to the CAC. Push the clamps and hoses
the CAC. See Fig. 1. back onto the piping until they are not touching
5. At each of the two CAC lower mounting tabs, the CAC. See Fig. 2.
loosen the CAC mounting fasteners until they are 5. At each of the two CAC lower mounting tabs,
just finger-tight. loosen the CAC mounting fasteners until they are
6. At each of the two CAC upper mounting tabs, just finger-tight.
remove the two CAC upper mounting fasteners 6. Have a second person support the CAC; then, at
and washers. each of the two CAC upper mounting tabs, re-
7. While a second person supports the CAC, remove the CAC mounting fasteners and washers.
move the CAC mounting fasteners and washers 7. With the second person supporting the CAC, re-
from the CAC lower mounting tabs. With the as- move the CAC mounting fasteners and washers
sistance of the second person, remove the CAC from the CAC lower mounting tabs. With the as-
from the vehicle by taking it out through the grille sistance of the second person, remove the CAC
opening. from the vehicle, by taking it out through the
grille opening.
8. For a CAC that is mounted on a 1350-square-
inch radiator that has aluminum CAC baffles at-

09.02 Charge Air Cooler
10
10
2 14 18
7 10 13
3
10 7
8 17
14 9
B 16
9
15
2 2
3 3
6 6
2 2
4 4
2 5 2 5
2 2
22
1 21
18
14
16
12
13
A D
19 C
14
11 13 20
21
09/25/96 f010894
NOTE: Air-recirculation baffles and aluminum CAC baffles are not shown.
A. Solid-Mount CAC Installation
B. Convoluted Hose Attachment (typical)
C. Small CAC Lower Attachment (typical) and Large CAC Lower Driver-Side Attachment
D. Soft-Mount CAC Installation
1. CAC, Solid-Mount (large CAC shown) 13. Mount Locknut, 3/8–16 Flanged
2. Convoluted Hose 14. Plated Steel Washer, 3/8" x 1-1/4"
3. CAC Inlet Air Piping 15. CAC Upper Mounting Tab (soft-mount)
4. Radiator 16. Elastomer Isolator
5. CAC Outlet Air Piping 17. CAC Upper Mounting Bracket
6. Radiator Top Tank 18. CAC-Mount Bolt, 3/8–16 x 2" Long, Flanged
7. CAC-to-Radiator-Top-Tank Locknut, 5/16" Flanged 19. CAC Lower Mounting Tab (soft-mount)
8. CAC Upper Mounting Tab (solid-mount) 20. CAC Lower Mounting Bracket (soft-mount)
9. CAC-to-Radiator-Top-Tank Bolt, 5/16" Flanged 21. CAC-Mount-Bracket Bolt, 3/8–16 x 1" Long, Flanged
10. Constant Tension Hose Clamp 22. CAC, Soft-Mount (large CAC shown)
11. CAC Lower Mounting Tab (solid-mount)
12. Lower Mounting Flatwasher and 3/8" Bolt (solid-
mount)
Fig. 1, CAC Installation, FLA/FLB
tached to the radiator support channels, remove

the six Torx fasteners that secure the baffles to
FLD 112 Conventional
the radiator. Discard the aluminum CAC baffles. 1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.

B 7
10
5
10
9
20
19
9 21
18 17
8 6 6
5 7 7
16 17 5
5 5 5
4 4
5 5
2 2
3 3
1 23
14 16
22
A C 15 21
15
13 17
12 19
11 12 17 14
16
03/17/95 f010901
NOTE: Air-recirculation baffles and aluminum CAC baffles are not shown.
A. Solid-Mount CAC Installation
B. Convoluted Hose Attachment (typical)
C. Soft-Mount CAC Installation
1. CAC, Solid-Mount 12. CAC Lower Mounting Tab
2. 1200-Square-Inch Radiator With Metal End Tanks 13. CAC Lower Mounting Bracket (solid-mount)
3. Radiator Brace-Rod Bracket 14. Radiator End-Tank Bolt, 5/16", Flanged
4. Radiator Surge Tank 15. Radiator End-Tank Locknut, 5/16", Flanged
5. Convoluted Hose 16. Mount-Bracket Locknut, 3/8", Flanged
6. CAC Outlet Air Piping 17. Plated Steel Washer, 3/8" x 1-1/4"
7. CAC Inlet Air Piping 18. CAC Upper Mounting Tab (soft-mount)
8. CAC Upper Mounting Tab (solid-mount) 19. Elastomer Isolator
9. Flanged Locknut (installs on stud for brace rod 20. CAC Upper Mounting Bracket (retrofit-only item)
bracket) 21. Mount-Bracket Bolt, 3/8–16 x 2" Long, Flanged
10. Constant Tension Hose Clamp 22. CAC Lower Mounting Bracket (soft-mount)
11. Lower Mounting Bracket Bolt, 3/8", Flanged (solid- 23. CAC, Soft-Mount
mount)
Fig. 2, CAC Installation, FLD 120/Classic XL with 1200 Square-Inch Metal-End-Tank Radiator

2. Open the hood halfway and support it. side channels. Make sure that you do not drill
3. Remove any hose clamps from the radiator into the radiator core.
brace rods. 3. Pull the hoses and constant tension hose clamps
4. Remove the hood straps and the brace rods forward until the hoses cover about 1-1/2 inches
from the top of the radiator. Tilt the hood all the (38 mm) of the CAC inlet and outlet connections.
way and support it. See Fig. 4.
IMPORTANT: Do not disconnect the refrigerant Turn the clamps so the clamp springs are under
lines from the condenser. or to the inside of the hoses. Tighten the clamp
nuts 45 lbf·in (500 N·cm).
5. Remove the four fasteners that attach the con-
denser (if equipped) to the radiator support chan- 4. Return the cab to the upright position.
nels. Move the condenser out of the way, and
support it so that it is not damaged during re- FLA/FLB Soft-Mount
moval of the CAC. See Fig. 3. 1. From the rear of the brackets, insert the 3/8–16
6. Loosen the clamps at both ends of the hoses by 2-inch-long flanged CAC mounting bolt in
that attach the inlet and outlet air piping to the each CAC upper mounting bracket, then install a
CAC connections. Push the clamps and hoses 3/8-inch i.d. by 1-1/4-inch o.d. plated steel
back onto the piping until they are not touching washer on each bolt.
the CAC.
NOTE: If a new radiator was installed, backdrill
7. Remove the two fasteners that attach the fan through the mounting tab holes into the radiator
shroud to the upper radiator support channel. side channels. Make sure that you do not drill
8. Remove the locknuts that clamp the upper sup- into the radiator core.
port channel in place. Remove the support chan- 2. From the rear of the tabs, insert the elastomer
nel. isolators removed from the old CAC into each of
9. Remove the CAC. the upper and lower mounting tabs of the new
CAC.
10. For a CAC that is mounted on a 1350-square-
inch radiator that has aluminum CAC baffles at- 3. Working through the grille opening, and with the
tached to the radiator support channels, remove assistance of a second person, position the new
the six Torx fasteners that secure the baffles to CAC in place on the radiator. Have the second
the radiator. Discard the aluminum CAC baffles. person support it from falling or tipping.
4. Push the 2-inch-long flanged mounting bolts
Installation through the elastomer isolator in each of the
upper mounting tabs, then install another 1-1/4-
FLA/FLB Solid-Mount inch o.d. plated steel washer and the mounting
locknut on each of the bolts. Tighten the locknuts
1. Place the CAC in front of the radiator, with the finger-tight.
holes in the CAC upper mounting tabs aligned 5. From the rear of the brackets, insert a new
with the empty holes in the radiator top tank. In- 3/8–16 by 2-inch-long flanged mounting bolt in
stall the flanged bolts and flanged locknuts, and each of the lower mounting brackets, then install
tighten the locknuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). See a 3/8-inch i.d. by 1-1/4-inch o.d. plated steel
Fig. 1. washer on each bolt.
2. Install the hexhead bolts, hardened washers, and 6. Push the 2-inch-long flanged mounting bolts
prevailing torque locknuts in the CAC lower through the elastomer isolator in each of the
mounting tabs. Tighten the locknuts 26 lbf·ft (35 lower mounting tabs, then install another 1-1/4-
N·m). inch o.d. plated steel washer and the mounting
NOTE: If a new radiator was installed, backdrill locknut on each of the bolts.
through the mounting tab holes into the radiator

11
12
11
10
8 9
7
4
7
3
4 6
5
4
1
06/13/94 f010202
1. CAC 5. CAC Inlet Air Piping 9. Upper Support Channel
2. Lower Support Channel 6. Radiator 10. Washer
3. Constant Tension Hose Clamp 7. Support Rod 11. 5/8–18 Locknut
4. Hump Hose 8. CAC Outlet Air Piping 12. Spacer
Fig. 3, CAC, FLD 112 Conventional Installation
7. Tighten the upper mounting locknuts 23 lbf·ft (31 both ends of the hoses, tighten the clamp nuts
N·m). Tighten the lower mounting locknuts to the 45 lbf·in (500 N·cm).
same torque value. Do not overtighten the fas-
9. Return the cab to the upright position.
teners.
10. Install the tunnel cross-braces, and the grille and
8. Pull the convoluted hoses and hose clamps onto
surround assembly (FLBs), or install the grille
the CAC inlet and outlet connections until they
(FLAs).
cover about 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) of the connec-
tions. Turn the clamps so the clamp springs are
under or on the inboard side of the hoses. At

or reinstalling a modified clamp, tighten the fas-

tener 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm). Do not retighten the
1 clamp unless the measured torque drops below
50 lbf·in (560 N·cm), at which time it should be
B tightened again 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm).
5. Return the hood to the operating position.
C
FLD 120/Classic XL Soft-Mount
1. From the rear of the upper mounting brackets,
insert the 3/8–16 by 2-inch-long flanged mount-
ing bolt in each bracket, then install a 3/8-inch
i.d. by 1-1/4-inch o.d. plated steel washer on
2 3 each bolt.
A
07/24/96 f010020 2. From the rear of the tabs, insert the elastomer
NOTE: The convoluted hoses must cover the CAC out- isolators removed from the old CAC into each of
let and inlet connections to point A at each connection. the upper and lower mounting tabs of the new
A. Point A CAC.
B. Measurement: 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) 3. Working through the grille opening, and with the
C. Measurement: 6 inches (152 mm) assistance of a second person, position the new
1. CAC 3. Outlet Air Piping CAC in place on the radiator. Have the second
2. Convoluted Hose person support it from falling or tipping.
4. Push the 2-inch-long flanged mounting bolts
Fig. 4, Correct Hose Positioning
through the elastomer isolator in each of the
upper mounting tabs, then install another 1-1/4-
FLD 120/Classic XL Solid-Mount inch o.d. plated steel washer and a new mount-
1. Slide the CAC upper mounting tabs over the for- ing locknut on each of the bolts. Tighten the lock-
ward radiator studs on the radiator surge tank nuts finger-tight.
and brace-rod bracket assembly. Start the 5. From the rear of the lower mounting brackets,
flanged nuts on the studs. insert a new 3/8–16 by 2-inch-long flanged
2. Install the flanged bolts and nuts that attach the mounting bolt in each of the brackets, then install
CAC to its lower mounting brackets at the for- a 3/8-inch i.d. by 1-1/4-inch o.d. plated steel
ward sides of the radiator, and tighten the nuts washer on each bolt.
28 lbf·ft (38 N·m). 6. Push the 1-inch-long flanged mounting bolts
3. Tighten the nuts at the brace-rod brackets 45 through the elastomer isolator in each of the
lbf·ft (61 N·m). lower mounting tabs, then install another 1-1/4-
inch o.d. plated steel washer and a new CAC
4. Pull the hoses and constant tension hose clamps mounting locknut on each of the bolts.
forward until the hoses cover about 1-1/2 inches
(38 mm) of the CAC inlet and outlet connections. 7. Tighten the upper mounting locknuts 23 lbf·ft (31
See Fig. 4. N·m). Tighten the lower mounting locknuts to the
same torque value. Do not overtighten the fas-
Turn the clamps so the clamp springs are under teners.
or to the inside of the hoses. Tighten the clamp
screws 45 lbf·in (500 N·cm). 8. Pull the convoluted hoses and hose clamps onto
the CAC inlet and outlet connections until they
IMPORTANT: Vehicles built on or after February cover about 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) of the connec-
26, 2007, have modified constant tension tions. Turn the clamps so the clamp springs are
clamps that adjust to changes in diameter at the under or on the inboard side of the hoses. At
hose connection. When installing a new clamp

both ends of the hoses, tighten the clamps nuts 50 lbf·in (560 N·cm), at which time it should be
45 lbf·in (500 N·cm). tightened again 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm).
IMPORTANT: Vehicles built on or after February 8. Return the hood to the operating position .
26, 2007, have modified constant tension
clamps that adjust to changes in diameter at the
clamp unless the measured torque drops below
tightened again 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm).
9. Return the hood to the operating position and
install the grille.
FLD 112 Conventional

1. Position the CAC against the front of the radiator.
2. Position the upper support channel over the ra-
diator support rods and on top of the radiator
assembly.
3. On each support rod, install a washer and lock-
nut. Tighten the locknuts 155 lbf·ft (210 N·m).
4. Install the spacers, hood straps, brace rods, and
locknuts. Tighten the locknuts 155 lbf·ft (210
N·m).
5. Move the fan shroud into place and fasten it to
the radiator support channel. Tighten the self-
tapping screws 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
6. Move the condenser into place and fasten it to
the radiator. Tighten the fasteners 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m).
7. Pull the CAC hoses and constant tension hose
clamps forward until the hoses cover about 1-1/2
inches (38 mm) of the CAC inlet and outlet con-
nections. See Fig. 4.
Turn the clamps so the clamp springs are under
or to the inside of the hoses. Tighten the clamp
screws 45 lbf·in (500 N·cm).
IMPORTANT: Vehicles built on or after February

CAC Inspection and Leakage Test
Inspection The CAC core leakage test should be performed

using a CAC test kit, part number 5039, which can
be purchased from Kent-Moore/SPX at 1-800-328-
6657.
2. Check the charge air cooler (CAC) convoluted
hoses and the inlet and outlet piping for holes or
other damage. Also check for loose or damaged 2. Connect the test equipment to the CAC core, as
constant tension hose clamps. Replace damaged follows. See Fig. 1.
parts. If hose clamps are loose, turn them so
2.1 Remove the inlet and outlet air piping from
their tightening screws are under the hoses or
the convoluted hoses that attach them to
facing inboard. Tighten the screws 45 lbf·in (500
the CAC air inlet and air outlet.
N·cm).
IMPORTANT: Vehicles built on or after February 2.2 Slip a safety ring with thumbscrew over
each convoluted hose and onto the CAC
air inlet and air outlet. Turn the rings so
clamps that adjust to changes in diameter at the the thumbscrews are facing outboard and
hose connection. When installing a new clamp the safety chains are inboard. Tighten the
or reinstalling a modified clamp, tighten the fas- thumbscrews securely.
clamp unless the measured torque drops below 2.3 Install an additional constant tension hose
clamp on each convoluted hose.
tightened again 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm). 2.4 Install the test plug without an adaptor in
the CAC air inlet and turn the plug so the
3. Check the CAC core fins. If the fins are bent,
safety chain is inboard. Tighten each con-
use a small pair of needlenose pliers or a small
stant tension hose clamps 72 lbf·in (810
screwdriver to straighten them.
N·cm).
4. Check the CAC core for clogged fins. Use com-
pressed air or water to dislodge any material re- 2.5 Install the test plug with adapter in the
stricting airflow through the core. CAC air outlet and turn the plug so the
safety chain is inboard. Tighten each con-
5. Perform the "CAC Core Leakage Test." stant tension hose clamp 72 lbf·in (810
N·cm).
CAC Core Leakage Test
WARNING
Charge air coolers are designed in such a way that
they may leak an insignificant amount of air. The al- Always secure the test plugs with the safety
lowable leakage mentioned in Table 1 represents a rings. Test pressures could blow out an unse-
loss of less than 0.1 percent of charge airflow. Based cured test plug at high speed, possibly causing
on this rate, there should be no measurable loss of eye injury or other serious personal injury.
performance. 2.6 If not already installed, install a test valve/
gauge assembly and air chuck in the test
Leakage Rate Specifications plug with adaptor.
Pressure Drop in Start 2.7 Attach a pressurized air line to the air
Engine 15 Seconds: psi Pressure: psi chuck on the pressure regulator valve.
(kPa) (kPa)
3. Test the CAC core as follows.
Caterpillar 5 (34) 30 (207)
Cummins 7 (48) 30 (207)
WARNING
Detroit Diesel 5 (34) 25 (172)
Always wear safety glasses when doing this pro-
Table 1, Leakage Rate Specifications
cedure. Do not stand in front of the test plugs
while the core is pressurized. A plug could sud-

12
11
10
2
1 1
3
3 3
3 4
4 3
8
3 5
6 5
6
9
7
05/08/95 f090139
1. Safety Chain 5. Safety Ring 9. CAC Air Outlet

2. Test Plug without Adaptor 6. Thumbscrew 10. Test Plug with Adaptor
3. Constant Tension Hose Clamp 7. CAC Air Inlet 11. Test Valve/Gauge Assembly
4. Convoluted Hose 8. Radiator Surge Tank 12. Air Chuck
Fig. 1, CAC Core Testing
denly release debris at high speed, possibly re- 3.3 When testing is completed, reduce the
sulting in eye injury or other serious personal pressure on the pressure regulator valve
injury. to bleed air from the CAC.
3.1 Open the test valve, then slowly open the 4. Remove the test equipment (and the additional
pressure regulator valve and allow the constant tension hose clamps) from the convo-
CAC to gradually fill with air to the start luted hoses.
pressure. See Table 1. 5. Pull the convoluted hoses and constant tension
3.2 Close the test valve and watch the gauge hose clamps rearward until the hoses cover
for 15 seconds. If there is more than the about 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) of the CAC air inlet
specified drop in the CAC pressure in 15 and air outlet piping.
seconds, replace the CAC. See Table 1. 6. Turn the clamps so their tightening screws are
IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to repair the under the hoses or facing inboard. Tighten the
CAC. screws 45 lbf·in (500 N·cm).

IMPORTANT: Vehicles built on or after February

tightened again 98 lbf·in (1100 N·cm).

CAC Flushing
Flushing
If the charge air cooler (CAC) is suspected of being
contaminated, flush the CAC.
1. Apply the brakes and chock the tires.
2. Remove the CAC. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
3. Set the CAC in a horizontal position with the inlet
and outlet ports facing up.
IMPORTANT: Use only naphtha or mineral spir-
its to clean the charge air cooler. Do not use
caustic solutions such as those that are com-
monly used in radiator shops. Do not use steam
or high-temperature cleaning operations. Caus-
tic solutions, steam, and high-temperature
cleaning operations will damage the RTV that
seals the charge air cooler tubes to the head-
ers, which may result in leaking.
4. Pour a filtered naphtha or mineral spirits solution
into the CAC until it is 40 percent full.
5. Cap the inlet and outlet ports on the CAC.
6. Rock the CAC back and forth so that the solvent
travels from one tank, through the tubes, to the
other tank and back. Repeat this process ten
times.
NOTE: Do not leave the solvent in the CAC for
more than 10 minutes.
7. Remove the caps from the inlet and outlet ports.
8. Drain the CAC and properly dispose of the sol-
vent.
9. Leave the caps off and allow the residual solvent
to evaporate.
10. Install the CAC. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.

CAC Restriction Test
Restriction Test
After flushing the charge air cooler (CAC) because of
turbocharger or engine damage, test the pressure
drop across the CAC and air piping, as follows:
1. Remove the pipe plug from the tapped hole in
the turbocharger air outlet elbow.
Remove the pipe plug, or the nylon tube and at-
omizer for the ether start system (if so
equipped), or the air line to the turbocharger air-
pressure gauge (if so equipped), from the tapped
hole in the rear left-hand side of the intake mani-
fold.
Install an air pressure gauge in each tapped
hole.
2. Operate the engine at rated speed and horse-
power; there is no need to operate the engine at
its peak torque rating. While operating the en-
gine, read both air pressure gauges.
Because of the turbulence of the air at the turbo-
charger outlet, subtract 0.3 inHg (1 kPa) from the
pressure measurement taken at this point, to
make it a true reading.
From that reading, subtract the reading taken at
the intake manifold. This is the pressure drop of
the CAC.
If the pressure drop is more than 4 inHg (14
kPa), flush or replace the CAC as needed.

Air Compressors, Bendix Tu-Flo 501 and Tu-Flo 700 13.00
General Information and of the crankshaft, depending on the engine model.

Oil is fed to the crankshaft main bearings and the
Principles of Operation connecting rod bearings through passages drilled in
the crankshaft. The piston wrist pins are lubricated
The Tu-Flo 501 and the Tu-Flo 700 are two cylinder, by oil dripping from a boss inside the piston.
single-stage, reciprocating air compressors. The Tu-
The compressor provides compressed air to operate
Flo 501 has a rated displacement of 12 cfm (340
air brake and auxiliary air system components. Tu-
L/min) of air at 1250 rpm. The Tu-Flo 700 has a
Flo compressors are gear-driven by the engine, and
rated displacement of 15.5 cfm (440 L/min) of air at
operate continuously while the engine is running. Ac-
1250 rpm.
tual compression of air is controlled by the air gover-
Tu-Flo 501s (Fig. 1) have two major subassemblies: nor and the compressor’s unloader mechanism. The
the cylinder head and the crankcase. The cylinder governor maintains the brake system air pressure
head houses the discharge valving, and is installed between preset maximum and minimum levels.
on top of the crankcase, which is a one-piece cast-
ing. The cylinder block portion of the casting houses INTAKE AND COMPRESSION
the cylinder bores, inlet valving, and the unloader
mechanism; the crankcase portion houses the crank- OF AIR (LOADED)
shaft and main bearings. Governor mounting pads During the downstroke (intake stroke) of each piston,
are provided on each end of the upper part of the a slight vacuum is created between the top of the
crankcase. piston and the cylinder head, causing the inlet valve
Tu-Flo 700s (Fig. 2) have three major subassem- for that cylinder to move up and off its seat, see
blies: the cylinder head, cylinder block, and the Fig. 3. Air from the engine air-intake system is drawn
crankcase. The cylinder head houses the discharge into the cylinder, past the open inlet valve.
valving, and is installed on top of the cylinder block. As the piston begins its upward stroke, the air that
The cylinder block houses the cylinder bores, inlet was drawn into the cylinder on the downstroke is
valving, and the unloader mechanism, and is in- being compressed. Air pressure against the top of
stalled between the cylinder head and the crankcase. the inlet valve, and the force of the inlet valve spring,
The crankcase houses the crankshaft and main bear- return the inlet valve to its seat. As the piston contin-
ings. Governor mounting pads are provided on each ues its upward stroke, air above the piston is com-
end of the cylinder block. pressed until the pressure lifts the discharge valve,
During operation, each compressor is watercooled and the compressed air flows into the discharge line,
and air-cooled. Coolant from the engine’s cooling and on to the reservoirs. When the piston reaches
system flows through a connecting line to the Tu-Flo the top of its stroke and starts down, the discharge
501’s cylinder head, where it passes through a water valve spring and air pressure in the discharge line
jacket surrounding the discharge valves and dis- return the discharge valve to its seat. This prevents
charge port, then out the cylinder head through an- compressed air in the discharge line from returning
other connecting line. Engine coolant enters the Tu- to the cylinder bore as the intake and compression
Flo 700’s cylinder block, and passes through water cycle is repeated.
jackets in both the cylinder block and cylinder head
before flowing out of the cylinder head. The com- NON-COMPRESSION OF AIR
pressor crankcase of both compressor styles is
cooled by airflow through the engine compartment, (UNLOADED)
from the action of the engine fan and the movement When air pressure in the reservoir reaches the cut-
of the vehicle. The cylinder block portion of the Tu- out setting of the governor, compressed air passes
Flo 501 crankcase has external fins to improve air through the governor, into the cavity beneath the un-
cooling. loader pistons, see Fig. 4. This lifts both of the un-
Tu-Flo compressors use the engine’s pressurized oil loader pistons and plungers. The plungers move up,
system to lubricate their internal moving parts. Oil and hold both inlet valves off their seats. With the
enters the compressor either through a passage in inlet valves held off their seats, the inlet cavity forms
the flange adapter, the end cover, or the driven end a passage between the cylinders. During the upward

13.00 Air Compressors, Bendix Tu-Flo 501 and Tu-Flo 700
Fig. 1, Tu-Flo 501 Air Compressor (typical Caterpillar application shown)
stroke of the pistons, air is pumped back and forth unloader pistons. The unloader saddle spring forces
between the two cylinders, and compression is the saddle, unloader pistons, and plungers down.
stopped. This returns the inlet valves to their seats, and com-
pression starts again.
When air is used from the reservoir, and air pressure
drops to the cut-in setting of the governor, the gover-
nor closes off and exhausts the air from beneath the

Fig. 2, Tu-Flo 700 Air Compressor (typical Cummins application shown)

1 2 2 1
4 4
5 6
1. Discharge Valve (Closed)

2. Inlet Valve (Open)
3. Unloader Spring Saddle
4. Unloader Piston and Plunger (Raised)
5. Passage from Governor (Open)
6. Inlet Port from Engine Air Cleaner
f130019
Fig. 4, Non-Compression of Air (Unloaded)
Fig. 3, Intake and Compression of Air (Loaded)

Cylinder Head Removal and Installation
Removal 6. Position the cylinder head on the crankcase or

cylinder block, being careful to align the inlet
valve springs with the inlet valves.
1. Chock the tires, then drain the air from all air
reservoirs. 7. Position on the cylinder head any brackets, spac-
ers, or clamps that were removed. Then install
WARNING the cylinder head capscrews, and tighten them
evenly in increments to their final torque. For Tu-
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are Flo 501s, final torque is 25 to 30 lbf·ft (35 to 40
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may N·m ). For Tu-Flo 700s, final torque is 175 to 225
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the lbf·in (1980 to 2540 N·cm ).
safety precautions recommended by the solvent 8. Connect the air discharge line and the water
manufacturer. lines to the cylinder head. On Caterpillar en-
2. Using a cleaning solvent, remove road dirt and gines, attach the air governor to its mounting
grease from the outside of the compressor, then bracket.
dry the compressor with compressed air. 9. Fill the engine cooling system. For instructions,
3. Drain the radiator coolant. For instructions, refer refer to the radiator section in this manual.
to the radiator section in this manual.
4. Disconnect the air discharge line and the water
lines from the compressor cylinder head, and
drain the coolant from the cylinder head (and
cylinder block of Tu-Flo 700s).
5. On Caterpillar engines, disconnect the air gover-
nor from its mounting bracket.
6. Remove the cylinder head capscrews. Remove
any brackets, spacers, or clamps held in place
by the capscrews, after noting their positions.
7. Tap the cylinder head with a soft mallet to break
the gasket seal. Remove the cylinder head.
Installation
1. Remove the inlet valve springs from the cylinder
head.
2. Scrape off any gasket material from the cylinder
head and the crankcase or cylinder block.
3. Using compressed air, blow dirt particles or gas-
ket material from all cylinder head cavities.
4. Install the inlet valve springs in the cylinder head
by turning each spring after it’s in the head. The
turning motion should dig the spring wire into the
spring seat in the bottom of the spring bore in
the head. If several tries prove unsuccessful, use
a very small amount of grease to hold the
springs in place; just enough to keep them from
falling out.
5. Place the cylinder head gasket on the crankcase
or cylinder block.

Unloader Mechanism Replacement
Unloader Mechanism from the inlet cavity of the crankcase or cylinder

block. Discard the removed parts.
Replacement 7. Remove and discard the unloader plungers and
guides.
1. Remove the air compressor cylinder head. For
instructions, refer to Subject 100. 8. Cover the inlet cavity and inlet valve ports with a
shop rag. Apply compressed air to the unloader
2. Remove the intake adapter, baffle, and gaskets.
port of the governor mounting pad, to blow the
3. On Cummins engines, remove the air governor unloader pistons out of their bores, and into the
and governor mounting gasket. inlet cavity. Remove and discard the unloader
pistons.
On Caterpillar engines, disconnect the air gover-
nor unloader line from the elbow fitting at the 9. Check the condition of the unloader bore bush-
governor mounting pad of the compressor. Re- ings. If they are worn, rusted, or damaged, re-
move the line and governor as an assembly. Re- place both of them as follows:
move the elbow fitting from the mounting pad. 9.1 Remove each bushing by running a 1/8-27
4. Remove the inlet valves from their guides in the pipe tap into it. Remove the tap, and in-
crankcase or cylinder block. See Fig. 1. stall a 1/8-27 threaded rod into the bush-
5. Remove the inlet valve guides from around the ing, then pull it straight up.
inlet valve seats, taking care not to damage the IMPORTANT: Do not use an easyout for re-
seats. moving the bushings.
9.2 Remove the unloader port plug from the
air governor mounting pad that is opposite
the pad where the governor was mounted
or the governor unloader line was at-
tached.
9.3 Using a rag, plug the unloader bore open-
ings in the bottom of the inlet cavity. Then
use compressed air, through either of the
governor unloader ports, to blow any par-
ticles out of the unloader passage.
9.4 Use compressed air to blow any particles
out of the inlet cavity.
9.5 Clean the unloader port plug, and apply a
small amount of Loctite® 242, or equiva-
lent sealant, to its threads. For Caterpillar
engines, also clean the unloader-line
elbow fitting, and apply the sealant to its
threads.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Make sure excess sealant will not get
inside the air compressor. Loose material inside
the air compressor or governor could cause dam-
Fig. 1, Inlet Valves and Unloader Mechanism age.
6. Using needle-nose pliers, remove the unloader 9.6 Install and tighten the port plug and (on a
spring, spring saddle, and unloader spring seat Caterpillar engine) the elbow fitting.

Unloader Mechanism Replacement
9.7 Using a soft metal drift, drive in the new

bushings.
10. Install the new unloader pistons in their bores,
being careful not to cut the O-rings or distort the
backup rings. See Fig. 2.
NOTE: New unloader pistons are prelubricated
with a special lubricant, and need no additional
lubrication.
11. Insert the unloader plungers in their guides, then
place them over the tops of the pistons.
12. Insert the pin of the unloader spring seat into the
small hole in the crankcase or cylinder block.
13. Position the unloader spring saddle between the
unloader plunger guides, so its forks are cen-
tered on the guides.
14. Install the unloader spring, making sure it seats
over both spring seats, in the crankcase (or cyl-
inder block) and on the saddle.
15. Install the inlet valve guides, then drop the inlet
valves into them, with the best side of each valve
facing the seat. There should be a loose sliding
fit between the guides and the valves. Fig. 2, Unloader Mechanism and Inlet Valve
16. On Caterpillar engines, attach the air governor Components
unloader line, with the air governor attached, to
the unloader-line elbow fitting.
On Cummins engines, clean the mounting pad
on both the compressor and the governor, and
be sure the compressor unloader port is clear.
Install a new governor mounting gasket, then
install the governor. Tighten the mounting bolts
11 to 15 lbf·ft (15 to 20 N·m).
17. Install the cylinder head on the compressor. For
instructions, refer to Subject 100.
18. Test the operation of the unloader mechanism;
refer to "Troubleshooting, 300."
19. Insert the intake adapter bolts through the intake
adapter. Install a gasket, the baffle, then another
gasket over the intake adapter bolts. Install the
adapter on the compressor, and tighten the bolts.

Discharge Valve Repair and Leak-Testing
Repair and Testing of Tu-Flo

501
1. Remove the air compressor cylinder head. For
2. Using a vernier caliper, measure the travel (fully
closed to fully open) of both discharge valves.
Valve travel must not be more than 0.057 inch
(1.45 mm). See Fig. 1, Ref. A.
If valve travel is within the limit, go to the next
step.
If valve travel is more than the limit, replace the
valve stops, as follows:
2.1 Remove the discharge valve seats, taking
care not to damage them. See Fig. 1. Re-
move and discard the discharge valves
and springs.
2.2 Support the machined surface of the cylin-
der head on an arbor press bed, allowing
enough clearance for the stops between
the press bed and the bottom of the cylin-
der head. Gently press the stops from the
top of the head, and out the bottom.
2.3 Inspect the valve stop bores in the cylin-
der head for severe scoring. If scoring is
severe, replace the cylinder head.
Fig. 1, Measuring Discharge Valve Travel
2.4 Measure the inside diameter of both valve
stop bores, and the outside diameter of 2.6 Noting their location and position, remove
both new discharge valve stops. For a any fittings from the cylinder head.
correct press fit, the diameter of each bore
must be 0.0008 to 0.0028 inch (0.020 to 2.7 Support the cylinder head casting, all the
0.071 mm) larger than its respective valve way around the outside top, on the arbor
stop. If the size of the bores is not within press bed. Press in the new stops from
these limits, replace the cylinder head. the bottom of the casting.
2.5 Apply a small amount of Loctite Retaining 2.8 Clean any fittings that were removed, and
Compound No. 75, or an equivalent seal- apply a small amount of Loctite 242, or an
ant, to the outside curved surface of each equivalent sealant, to the threads on the
stop. fittings. Install and tighten the fittings.
3. If not already done, remove the discharge valve
CAUTION seats, valves, and springs. See Fig. 1. Discard
the valves and springs.
CAUTION: Make sure excess sealant will not get
4. Inspect the discharge valve seats for nicks,
inside the air compressor. Loose material inside
cracks, or extreme wear; replace them if neces-
the air compressor or governor could cause dam-
sary. If they show signs of slight wear, use a lap-
age.
ping stone, grinding compound, and a grinding
tool to dress them.

Discharge Valve Repair and Leak-Testing
5. Install new discharge valve springs and valves. 3. Remove the discharge valve seats, valves, valve
Install and tighten the discharge valve seats until guides, and springs. See Fig. 1. Discard the
the discharge valve travel measures between valves, valve guides, and springs.
0.041 and 0.057 inch (1.04 to 1.45 mm). 4. Inspect the discharge valve seats for nicks,
6. Test for discharge valve leakage, as follows: cracks, or extreme wear; replace them if neces-
sary. If they show signs of slight wear, use a lap-
6.1 Apply compressed air at 100 psi (690 ping stone, grinding compound, and a grinding
kPa) pressure through the cylinder head tool to dress them.
discharge port.
5. Install new discharge valve springs, valve guides,
6.2 Apply a soap solution to the discharge and valves. Install and tighten the discharge
valves and seats. valve seats until the discharge valve travel mea-
6.3 A slight leakage in the form of soap sures between 0.030 and 0.046 inch (0.76 to
bubbles is okay. 1.17 mm).
If there’s extreme leakage, leave the air 6. Test for discharge valve leakage, as follows:
pressure applied, and with a hardwood 6.1 Apply compressed air at 100 psi (690
dowel and a hammer, tap the discharge kPa) pressure through the cylinder head
valves off their seats several times. This discharge port.
will improve the seal between the valve
and the valve seat, and should reduce 6.2 Apply a soap solution to the discharge
leakage. valves and seats.
If there’s still extreme leakage, replace the 6.3 A slight leakage in the form of soap
valve seats. bubbles is okay.
6.4 With the air pressure still applied, apply If there’s extreme leakage, leave the air
the soap solution to the discharge valve pressure applied, and with a hardwood
stops (exposed on the top of the cylinder dowel and a hammer, tap the discharge
head). No leakage is allowed. valves off their seats several times. This
will improve the seal between the valve
6.5 Remove the compressed-air hose. and the valve seat, and should reduce
7. Install the cylinder head. For instructions, refer to leakage.
Subject 100. If there’s still extreme leakage, replace the
valve seats.
Repair and Testing of Tu-Flo 6.4 With the air pressure still applied, apply
700 the soap solution to the discharge valve
cap nuts (on top of the cylinder head). No
1. Remove the air compressor cylinder head. For leakage is allowed.
instructions, refer to Subject 100. 6.5 Remove the compressed-air hose.
2. Using a vernier caliper, measure the travel (fully 7. Install the cylinder head. For instructions, refer to
closed to fully open) of both discharge valves. Subject 100.
Valve travel must not be more than 0.046 inch
(1.17 mm). See Fig. 1, Ref. A.
If valve travel is within the limit, go to the next
step.
If valve travel is more than the limit, replace the
valve stops (capnuts).

Air Compressor Removal and Installation
Removal place, and install the bolts that attach it to the

auxiliary drive housing, accessory drive, or timing
gear plate.
1. Chock the tires, then drain the air from all air
reservoirs. 2. Install the compressor support bracket, if so
equipped.
WARNING 3. On Cummins engines, install the Cummins fuel
pump and gasket; refer to the Cummins engine
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are shop manual or rebuild manual for instructions.
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the 4. Insert the intake adapter bolts through the intake
safety precautions recommended by the solvent adapter. Install a gasket, the baffle, then another
manufacturer. gasket over the intake adapter bolts. Install the
adapter on the compressor, and tighten the bolts.
2. Using a cleaning solvent, remove road dirt and
grease from the outside of the compressor, then 5. On Caterpillar engines, attach the air governor
dry the compressor with compressed air. unloader line, with the air governor attached, to
the unloader-line elbow fitting. Attach the gover-
3. Drain the radiator coolant; refer to the radiator nor to its mounting bracket.
section in this manual for instructions.
On Cummins engines, clean the mounting pad
4. Disconnect the air discharge line and the water on both the compressor and the governor, and
lines from the compressor cylinder head (and be sure the compressor unloader port is clear.
cylinder block of Tu-Flo 700s), and drain the Install a new governor mounting gasket, then
coolant from the cylinder head (and block). Re- install the governor, and tighten the mounting
move any clamps that attach the lines to the bolts 11 to 15 lbf·ft (15 to 20 N·m).
compressor.
6. At the air governor, connect the air line that runs
5. At the air governor, disconnect the air line that from the air reservoir.
runs from the air reservoir.
7. Connect the air discharge line and the water
6. Remove the air governor, and (for a Cummins lines to the compressor cylinder head. Install any
engine) the governor mounting gasket. clamps that attach the lines to the compressor.
On Caterpillar engines, also remove the governor 8. Fill the engine cooling system. For instructions,
unloader line from the elbow fitting at the gover- refer to the radiator section in this manual.
nor mounting pad of the compressor.
7. Remove the intake adapter, baffle, and gaskets.
8. If the compressor is on a Cummins engine, re-
move the fuel pump and gasket; refer to the
Cummins engine shop manual or rebuild manual
for instructions.
9. Remove the compressor support bracket, if so
equipped.
10. Support the compressor, and remove the bolts
that attach it to the auxiliary drive housing, ac-
cessory drive, or timing gear plate. Remove the
compressor, gasket, and splined coupling (if so
equipped).
Installation
1. Install the compressor gasket and splined cou-
pling (if so equipped). Hold the compressor in

Air Compressor Rebuilding
Disassembly 8. Remove the crankcase cover capscrews, then

tap the crankcase cover with a soft mallet to
break the gasket seal and remove the cover.
1. Remove the air compressor. For instructions,
refer to Subject 130. 9. On Tu-Flo 501s, straighten the prongs of the rod
cap lock straps. See Fig. 1, Ref. 32.
2. Remove all compressor attachments, such as
inlet fittings, discharge fittings, and pipe plugs, 10. On Tu-Flo 501s and 700s, before removing the
see Fig. 1 or Fig. 2. connecting rods, mark each connecting rod and
its cap.
3. Before disassembling the compressor, use a
metal scribe to mark the parts with matching Remove the rod bolts and bearing caps. Push
numbers or lines. the pistons, with the rods attached, out the top of
the cylinders. Remove and discard the connect-
Mark both the front and rear end-covers (or
ing rod journal bearings. Install the bearing caps
flange adapters) in relation to the crankcase.
on their respective connecting rods.
Mark the front end-cover and the crankcase in
relation to the drive end of the crankshaft. Mark IMPORTANT: Each rod is matched to its own
the crankcase cover in relation to the crankcase. cap for correct bearing fit. These parts must not
On Tu-Flo 501s, mark the cylinder head in rela- be interchanged.
tion to the crankcase; on Tu-Flo 700s, mark the
cylinder head in relation to the block, and the 11. From the pistons, remove and discard the piston
block in relation to the crankcase. rings.
IMPORTANT: Do not use a marking method, 12. On Tu-Flo 700s, remove the bolts that fasten the
such as chalk, that can be wiped off during re- cylinder block to the crankcase, then separate
the two. See Fig. 2, Ref. 9.
building.
13. Using needle-nose pliers, remove and discard
4. Remove the cylinder head bolts. Remove any the unloader spring, spring saddle, and unloader
brackets, spacers, or clamps held in place by the spring seat from the inlet cavity of the crankcase
bolts, after noting their positions. or cylinder block. See Fig. 3. Remove and dis-
Tap the cylinder head with a soft mallet to break card the unloader plungers and guides.
the gasket seal. Remove the cylinder head. 14. Cover the inlet cavity and inlet valve ports with a
5. Remove the inlet valve springs from the cylinder shop rag. Apply compressed air to the unloader
head, and the inlet valves from their guides in port of one governor mounting pad, while block-
the crankcase or cylinder block. Remove the ing the unloader port of the opposite pad. This
guides from around the inlet valve seats, taking will blow the unloader pistons out of their bores,
care not to damage the seats. See Fig. 3. Dis- and into the inlet cavity. Discard the unloader
card the inlet valves, valve springs, and guides. pistons.
6. Before disassembling the discharge valves, in- 15. Remove the capscrews, then each end-cover or
spect the valve stops for severe peening. Using flange adapter (as equipped), taking care not to
a vernier caliper, measure the travel (fully closed damage the crankshaft oil seals and main bear-
to fully open) of both discharge valves. See ings, if any.
Fig. 4, Ref. A. Measure to the nearest thou- 16. On Tu-Flo 501s, remove all of the small seal
sandth of an inch (hundredth of a millimeter), rings from the crankcase, and remove the
and record the measurements. O-rings or gaskets from the end-covers (or
7. Unscrew the discharge valve seats from the flange adapters). See Fig. 1. If the rear end-
head, being careful not to damage them. See cover has an oil seal, press it from the cover.
Fig. 4. Remove the discharge valves and springs
On Tu-Flo 700s, remove the end-cover (or flange
(and valve guides, on Tu-Flo 700s); discard the
adapter) gaskets and oil seals. See Fig. 2. Dis-
valves and springs.
card the gaskets.

Fig. 1, Tu-Flo 501 Compressor Parts (typical)
Remove any thrustwashers from the endcovers If the compressor has ball-type main bearings,
(or flange adapters). press the crankshaft and ball bearings from the
17. Remove any oil seal rings from the crankshaft. crankcase, then press the ball bearings from the
crankshaft.
18. If the compressor has sleeve main bearings, re-
move the crankshaft from the crankcase.

Fig. 2, Tu-Flo 700 Compressor Parts (typical)

Fig. 3, Inlet Valves and Unloader Mechanism
Cleaning, Inspection, and

Repair
Fig. 4, Measuring Discharge Valve Travel
1. Scrape off any gasket material from the bottom 4. Remove all rust and scale from the cooling cavi-
of the cylinder head, top and bottom of the tites of the cylinder head, and from the cylinder
crankcase, front and back of the crankcase, end- block of Tu-Flo 700s.
covers, crankcase cover, and (on Tu-Flo 700s)
the top and bottom of the cylinder block. 5. Clean the carbon and dirt from the inlet and un-
loader passages.
WARNING 6. Clean all oil passages through the crankshaft,
crankcase, end-covers (or flange adapters), and
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are crankcase cover. Inspect the passages with a
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may wire to be sure they are clear.
safety precautions recommended by the solvent 7. Use compressed air to blow loosened particles
manufacturer. from all cavitites and passages.
2. Clean all parts with solvent before inspecting 8. Inspect the cylinder head (and cylinder block of
them, and dry the parts with compressed air. Tu-Flo 700s) for cracks and damage. Apply com-
pressed air to one of the coolant ports, with all
3. Remove all carbon deposits from the cylinder others plugged. Check for leakage by applying a
head discharge cavities. soap solution to the outside of the head (and cyl-
inder block). If leaks are seen, replace the part.

9. On Tu-Flo 700s, remove the discharge valve 10. Inspect the discharge valve seats for nicks,
stops (capnuts) and inspect them for wear. Re- cracks, and extreme wear. Replace them if nec-
place them if they are worn. essary. If they show signs of slight wear, use a
lapping stone, grinding compound, and a grind-
On Tu-Flo 501s and 700s, check for excessive ing tool to dress them.
peening of the discharge valve stops: compare
the maximum allowable discharge valve travel 11. Inspect the inlet valve seats for damage. If there
with the value recorded at "Air Compressor Re- are slight nicks or scratches, they can be
building, 140: Disassembly." dressed with a fine piece of emery cloth, or by a
lapping stone, grinding compound, and a grind-
For Tu-Flo 700s, if the recorded valve travel is ing tool. If the seats are damaged to the extent
more than 0.046 inch (1.17 mm), replace the that they can’t be reclaimed by dressing them,
valve stops (capnuts). replace them.
For Tu-Flo 501s, if the recorded valve travel is 12. Check the condition of the unloader bore bush-
more than 0.057 inch (1.45 mm), replace the ings. If they are not worn, rusted, or damaged,
valve stops, as follows: don’t remove them. If they are worn, rusted, or
9.1 Support the machined surface of the cylin- damaged, replace both of them as follows:
der head on an arbor press bed, allowing 12.1 Remove each bushing by running a 1/8-27
enough clearance for the stops between pipe tap into it. Remove the tap, and in-
the press bed and the bottom of the cylin- stall a 1/8-27 threaded rod into the bush-
der head. Gently press the stops from the ing, then pull it straight up.
top of the head, and out the bottom.
IMPORTANT: Do not use an easyout for re-
9.2 Inspect the valve stop bores in the cylin- moving the bushings.
der head for severe scoring. If scoring is
severe, replace the cylinder head. 12.2 Using a rag, plug the unloader bore open-
ings in the bottom of the inlet cavity. Then
9.3 Measure the inside diameter of both valve use compressed air, through either of the
stop bores, and the outside diameter of governor unloader ports, to blow any par-
both new discharge valve stops. For a ticles out of the unloader passage.
correct press fit, the diameter of each bore
must be 0.0008 to 0.0028 inch (0.020 to 12.3 Use compressed air to blow any particles
0.071 mm) larger than its respective valve out of the inlet cavity.
stop. If the size of the bores is not within
12.4 Using a soft metal drift, drive in the new
these limits, replace the cylinder head.
bushings.
CAUTION 13. Check all of the crankcase surfaces for cracks
and damage; replace the crankcase if necessary.
CAUTION: Make sure excess sealant will not get 14. For compressors having ball-type main bearings,
inside the air compressor. Loose material inside measure the outside diameter of the ball bear-
the compressor or governor could cause dam- ing’s outer race, and the inside diameter of the
age. crankcase hole. To maintain a correct press fit,
9.4 Apply a small amount of Loctite Retaining the difference between the two measurements
Compound No. 75, or an equivalent seal- must be 0 to 0.0015 inch (0 to 0.038 mm). Re-
ant, to the outside curved surface of each place the crankcase if the fit is too loose.
stop. 15. Check the end-covers or flange adapters for
9.5 Support the cylinder head casting, all the cracks and damage; replace them as necessary.
way around the outside top, on the arbor 16. For compressors having sleeve main bearings,
press bed. Press in the new stops from check the bearings for flat spots and extreme
the bottom of the casting. wear. Replace the end-cover or main bearing if
damaged or worn.

Measure the outside diameter of the crankshaft driven end). Install the rod cap, with the
main journal, and the inside diameter of the main locking slots of the connecting rod and the
bearing. For Tu-Flo 501s, if the difference in cap positioned next to each other. Tighten
measurements is more than 0.0065 inch (0.165 the rod bolts evenly in increments to a
mm), or for Tu-Flo 700s, more than 0.005 inch final torque of 125 to 140 lbf·in (1420 to
(0.13 mm), replace the end-cover or main bear- 1580 N·cm).
ing.
21.4 Remove the connecting rod, and paint a
17. Check the crankshaft splines, gear teeth, tapered small "1" on the side of it for later assem-
ends, and all machined and ground surfaces for bly reference.
wear, scores, or damage. Repair the damage, or
replace the crankshaft if needed. 21.5 Determine the clearance between the con-
necting rod journal and the connecting rod
18. For crankshafts fitted with oil seal rings, check bearing. The clearance must not be less
the seal ring groove or grooves for wear. The than 0.0003 inch (0.008 mm) or more than
ring groove walls must have a good finish and 0.0021 inch (0.053 mm).
they must be square. If the ring grooves are
worn or damaged, replace the crankshaft. 21.6 Install the cap on the rod.
19. For compressors having ball-type main bearings, 21.7 Repeat all of the substeps above for the
check for a snug fit of the bearings on the crank- number two crankshaft journal and other
shaft main journals. If there is not a snug fit, reconnecting rod (paint a small "2" on the
place the crankshaft. side of it).
20. Check the crankshaft connecting rod journals for 21.8 If bearing clearance is not within limits,
extreme scoring and measure them for out-of- replace the bearings with ones that are
round wear. Standard crankshaft journals are the correct size, or regrind the crankshaft
1.1242 to 1.1250 inches (28.555 to 28.575 mm) rod journals and replace the bearings.
in diameter. If the crankshaft is extremely scored 22. Using inside micrometers or calipers, measure
or worn out-of-round, and cannot be reground, the cylinder bores in the crankcase (Tu-Flo 501s)
replace it. or cylinder block (Tu-Flo 700s), and record the
NOTE: If the crankshaft needs to be reground measurements. See Fig. 5.
or replaced, do so before continuing to the next Cylinder bores must be smooth, straight, and
step. For compressors having reground crank- round. If the bores are scored, are out of round
shafts, connecting rod bearing inserts are avail- by more than 0.001 inch (0.025 mm), or are ta-
able in 0.010-inch, 0.020-inch, and 0.030-inch pered more than 0.002 inch (0.05 mm), they
undersizes. must be rebored or honed oversize. Clearance
between the cast iron pistons and the cylinder
21. Check the clearance between the crankshaft bores should be between 0.002 and 0.004 inch
journals and the new connecting rod bearings, as (0.05 and 0.10 mm).
follows:
NOTE: Oversized pistons and piston rings are
21.1 Remove the connecting rod bolts and
available in 0.010-inch, 0.020-inch, and 0.030-
bearing cap from one connecting rod.
inch oversizes.
IMPORTANT: Each rod is matched to its 23. Check the pistons for scores, cracks, or enlarged
own cap for correct bearing fit. Do not inter- ring grooves. Replace the pistons if any of these
change the parts. conditions are found.
21.2 Install the new crankshaft journal bearing Using an outside micrometer, measure the diam-
segments in the connecting rod and cap. eter of both pistons (whether new or used). Com-
Position a strip of Plastigage® on the rod pare the piston measurements to the cylinder
cap bearing segment. bore measurements recorded in the step above,
21.3 Position the connecting rod on the number to be sure the clearance is between 0.002 and
one crankshaft journal (the one nearer the 0.004 inch (0.05 and 0.10 mm).

1. Check the fit of the new piston rings in the piston

ring grooves.
Tu-Flo 501 pistons have two compression rings
above the wrist pin, and one oil ring below it.
See Fig. 6. Groove clearance for compression
(upper) rings is 0.002 to 0.004 inch (0.05 to 0.10
mm). Groove clearance for the oil ring is 0.001 to
0.003 inch (0.025 to 0.076 mm).
45
40
0
20
15
10
5
0
Tu-Flo 700 pistons have two narrow piston rings

and one wide piston ring above the wrist pin, and
one narrow and one wide piston ring below it.
See Fig. 7. Groove clearance for each of the five
rings is 0.002 to 0.004 inch (0.05 to 0.10 mm).
2. To check the ring gap, install each of the piston
rings in the cylinder bores. For Tu-Flo 501s and
02/23/93 f130009 Tu-Flo 700s the gap must be 0.002 to 0.010 inch
(0.051 to 0.254 mm). See Fig. 6 and Fig. 7.
Fig. 5
3. Position the connecting rods in the pistons (if
24. Remove the wrist pin Teflon® buttons from the they were removed) and press in the wrist pins.
pistons. Check the fit of the wrist pins in the pis- Secure the wrist pins by installing a Teflon button
tons by pressing the pins back and forth. The at each end.
wrist pin should be a light press fit in the piston.
If the fit is loose, replace the piston and pin as- 4. Install the piston rings in the correct grooves of
sembly. the pistons, with the ring bevel up. See Fig. 6
and Fig. 7 . Stagger the position of the ring
25. Check the fit of the wrist pins in the connecting gaps.
rod bushings by rocking the pistons. The clear-
ance between the pin and the bushing should 5. For Tu-Flo 501s, go to the step after the next
not be more than 0.0007 inch (0.0178 mm). step.
For aluminum connecting rods, if the wrist pin For Tu-Flo 700s, position a new gasket on the
bushing is worn, discard the rod assembly and crankcase, then carefully align the cylinder block
replace it with a new one. on the gasket. Install the bolts and lockwashers,
and tighten the bolts evenly in increments to their
For steel connecting rods, if the wrist pin bushing final torque of 28 lbf·ft (40 N·m).
is worn, press it out. Press a new bushing in the
connecting rod so that the oil hole in the bushing 6. For Tu-Flo 700s (see Fig. 2), install the crank-
lines up with the one in the rod. Ream or hone shaft and end-covers or flange adapters, as fol-
the new bushings to between 0.5314 and 0.5317 lows:
inch (13.498 to 13.505 mm), to provide between 6.1 If the crankshaft is fitted with oil seal rings,
0.0001 and 0.0006 inch (0.0025 to 0.0152 mm) install the rings in the crankshaft grooves.
clearance on the wrist pin.
6.2 If one end of the crankcase is counter-
bored for a ball bearing, position the ball
Assembly and Testing bearing and crankshaft in the crankcase,
making certain the crankshaft is installed
NOTE: All torque values in this procedure are through the correct end of the crankcase,
assembly torque values and can be expected to and that the drive end of the crankshaft is
decrease after assembly is completed. Do not positioned in the crankcase as marked
retorque after the initial assembly torque de- before disassembly.
creases. If both ends of the crankcase are counter-
bored for ball bearings, position the ball

bearings and crankshaft in the crankcase,

COMPRESSION COMPRESSION making certain that the drive end of the
RINGS RING CLEARANCE crankshaft is positioned in the crankcase
as marked before disassembly.
Using an arbor press, carefully press the
0.002−−0.004" crankshaft and bearing(s) into the crank-
(0.05−−0.10 mm) case.
6.3 Install a new end-cover gasket at the rear
of the crankcase, and align the oil hole in
OIL RING the gasket with the oil hole in the crank-
CLEARANCE case.
OIL RING
6.4 Install an oil seal ring (if so equipped) on
the rear end-cover or adapter flange.
0.001−−0.0003"
EXPANDER (0.025−−0.076 mm) 6.5 Install the thrustwasher (if so equipped) on
RING the rear end-cover or adapter flange.
RING END GAP WITH RINGS 6.6 Install the rear end-cover (or adapter
IN THE CYLINDER BORE flange) on the crankcase, and align the oil
hole in the cover with the oil holes in the
gasket and crankcase. Install the cap-
0.002−−0.010" screws and lockwashers, and tighten the
(0.05−−0.254 mm) capscrews 175 to 225 lbf·in (1980 to 2540
f130007
N·cm).
6.7 If needed, press a new oil seal into the
Fig. 6, Tu-Flo 501 Piston Ring Groove Clearance and
End Gap Specifications front end-cover or adapter flange.
6.8 Install the thrustwasher (if so equipped) on
NARROW the front end-cover or adapter flange.
PISTON
PISTON RING
6.9 Install a new, front end-cover gasket. To
RINGS
CLEARANCE avoid damage to the new oil seal, care-
WIDE fully install the end-cover (or adapter
PISTON flange) over the crankshaft and onto the
RING crankcase. Install the capscrews and lock-
washers, and tighten the capscrews 175
0.002−−0.004" to 225 lbf·in (1980 to 2540 N·cm). Go to
(0.05−−0.10 mm) the step after the next step.
NARROW PISTON RING 7. For Tu-Flo 501s (see Fig. 1), install the crank-
WIDE PISTON RING shaft and end-covers or flange adapters, as fol-
lows:
7.1 If the compressor uses a ball-type main
RING END GAP WITH RING
IN THE CYLINDER BORE
bearing, press the ball bearing onto the
correct end of the crankshaft, so that the
drive end of the crankshaft will be posi-
0.002−−0.010" tioned in the crankcase as marked before
(0.05−−0.254 MM) disassembly.
f130008
Using an arbor press, carefully press the
Fig. 7, Tu-Flo 700 Piston Ring Groove Clearance and ball bearing and the crankshaft into the
End Gap Specifications crankcase.

7.2 For compressors with a sleeve main bear- For all end-covers using 5/16-inch cap-
ing either front or rear, install two small screws (or studs and nuts), tighten them
seal rings in the countersunk holes in the 15 to 18 lbf·ft (20 to 25 N·m).
crankcase. Install an O-ring seal in the
For die-cast aluminum end-covers, tighten
groove around the flange adapter or end-
7/16-inch capscrews 25 to 30 lbf·ft (35 to
cover. Install the thrustwasher on the
40 N·m).
flange adapter or end-cover.
For through-drive compressors with a cast
IMPORTANT: All flange-mounted compres- iron end-cover, tighten 7/16-inch cap-
sors must be assembled without a gasket screws 25 to 30 lbf·ft (35 to 40 N·m).
between the crankcase and flange adapter.
Also, some compressors do not require gas- For cast iron flange adapters, tighten 7/16-
kets on the end-cover. inch capscrews 38 to 45 lbf·ft (50 to 60
N·m).
CAUTION 8. Install the pistons and connecting rods as fol-
lows:
CAUTION: Install new crankcase gaskets only
where they were removed during disassembly. 8.1 Remove the connecting rod bolts and
Damage to the compressor will occur if gaskets bearing cap from the connecting rod that
are used where they don’t belong. has a small "1" painted on its side.
7.3 Install the flange adapter or end-cover in 8.2 Turn the crankshaft so its number one rod
the position that was marked before disas- journal (the one nearer the drive end) is
sembly, taking care not to damage the down and centered.
sleeve bearing. 8.3 Apply clean engine oil to both pistons, the
7.4 For compressors with a front ball bearing, piston rings, wrist pins, and connecting
install two small seal rings in the counter- rod bearings.
sunk holes at the front of the crankcase. 8.4 Insert the number one connecting rod and
Install an end-cover gasket on the front of piston through the top of the number one
the crankcase. cylinder.
Press a new oil seal into the front end- 8.5 Install the rod cap, with the locking slots of
cover if one was removed during disas- the connecting rod and the locking slots of
sembly. the cap positioned next to each other.
Install the front end cover in the position For Tu-Flo 501s, install the lock strap on
that was marked before disassembly, tak- the cap, before installing new rod bolts.
ing care not to damage the new oil seal.
Tighten the new rod bolts evenly in incre-
7.5 For compressors with a rear ball bearing, ments to a final torque of 125 to 140 lbf·in
install two small seal rings in the counter- (1420 to 1580 N·cm).
bore at the rear of the crankcase. In addi-
tion, install a gasket on the rear of the For Tu-Flo 501s, bend the lock strap
crankcase, or install a large O-ring in the prongs against the hexhead of the bolts.
counterbore at the rear of the crankcase, 8.6 Turn the crankshaft so its number two
depending on what was previously in- connecting rod journal is in the downward,
stalled. center position.
Install the rear end-cover in the position Install the number two connecting rod and
that was marked before disassembly. piston in the same manner as described
7.6 Using capscrews, secure the front or rear above.
end-cover or flange adapter to the crank- 9. Install a new unloader assembly (see Fig. 8), as
case. follows:

9.5 Install the unloader spring, making sure it

seats over the spring seats in both the
crankcase (or cylinder block) and on the
saddle.
10. Install and leak-test the discharge valves, as fol-
lows:
10.1 Install new discharge valve springs and
valves. For Tu-Flo 700s, install the dis-
charge valve guides.
10.2 For Tu-Flo 501s, install and tighten the
valve seats until valve travel measures
between 0.041 and 0.057 inch (1.04 to
1.45 mm). See Fig. 4, Ref. A.
For Tu-Flo 700s, install and tighten the
valve seats until valve travel measures
between 0.030 and 0.046 inch (0.76 to
1.17 mm). See Fig. 4, Ref. A.
10.3 Using compressed air, apply 100 psi (690
kPa) pressure through the cylinder head
discharge port.
10.4 Apply a soap solution to the discharge
valves and seats. A slight leakage in the
Fig. 8, Unloader Mechanism and Inlet Valve form of soap bubbles is okay.
Componenets
If there’s extreme leakage, leave the air
NOTE: The unloader pistons provided in a pressure applied, and with a hardwood
new unloader kit are prelubricated with a dowel and a hammer, tap the discharge
special lubricant, and need no additional lu- valves off their seats several times. This
brication before assembly. will improve the seal between the valve
and the valve seat, and should reduce the
9.1 Install the unloader pistons in their bores leakage. If there’s still extreme leakage,
in the crankcase (Tu-Flo 501s) or cylinder replace the valve seats.
block (Tu-Flo 700s), being careful not to
cut the O-rings or distort the back-up 10.5 With the pressure still applied, apply the
rings. soap solution to the discharge valve stops
(Tu-Flo 501s) or discharge valve capnuts
9.2 Position the unloader plungers in their (Tu-Flo 700s). No leakage is allowed.
guides and slip them in and over the tops
of the unloader pistons. 10.6 Remove the compressed-air hose.
9.3 Install the unloader spring seat in the inlet 11. Install the inlet valve guides, then drop the new
cavity; a small hole is drilled in the crank- inlet valves in their guides. The inlet valves
case (Tu-Flo 501s) or cylinder block (Tu- should be a loose sliding fit in the guides.
Flo 700s) for this purpose. 12. Install the inlet valve springs in the cylinder head
9.4 Position the unloader saddle between the by turning each spring after it is in the head. The
plunger guides, so its forks are centered turning motion should dig the spring wire into the
on the guides. spring seat in the bottom of the spring bore in
the head. If several tries prove unsuccessful, use
a very small amount of grease to hold the
springs in place; just enough to keep them from
falling out.

13. Align a new cylinder head gasket on the crank- For Tu-Flo 700s, the time must not exceed
case or cylinder block. Place the cylinder head five seconds.
on the crankcase or cylinder block, being careful
17.5 While operating the compressor, check it
to align the inlet valve springs with the inlet
for gasket leaks and noisy operation.
valves.
14. Position on the cylinder head any brackets, spac- 17.6 Install an air governor on one of the com-
ers, or clamps that were removed from it. Then pressor mounting pads. Attach an air line
install the cylinder head bolts, and tighten them between the reservoir and the governor.
evenly in increments to their final torque. Check the unloader operation of the com-
pressor.
For Tu-Flo 501s, final torque is 25 to 30 lbf·ft (35
to 40 N·cm); for Tu-Flo 700s, it’s 175 to 225 lbf·in 17.7 Operate the compressor, and check for
(1980 to 2540 N·cm). internal (valve) leakage.
15. Align the crankcase cover gasket on the crank- 17.8 Drain the air pressure, then remove the
case, and install the cover as marked before dis- test attachments and the air governor.
assembly. Tighten its bolts evenly in increments 18. If the compressor will not be installed immedi-
to their final torque. ately, plug all compressor ports before storing
For Tu-Flo 501s, final torque is 12 to 16 lbf·ft (16 the compressor.
to 22 N·m).
For Tu-Flo 700s with 1/4-20 bolts, final torque is
85 to 115 lbf·in (960 to 1300 N·cm); with 5/16-18
bolts, it’s 95 to 125 lbf·in (1080 to 1420 N·cm).
16. Install all compressor attachments, such as inlet
fittings, discharge fittings, and pipe plugs. Do not
install the intake adapter.
17. Test the rebuilt compressor, as follows:
IMPORTANT: To properly test a compressor
under operating conditions, a test rack is
necessary for correct mounting, cooling, lu-
bricating, and driving the compressor.
17.1 Connect an oil supply line of at least 15
psi (100 kPa) pressure to the compressor.
17.2 Connect an oil return line to the compres-
sor, to keep the crankcase drained.
17.3 To the compressor discharge port, connect
a reservoir with a volume of 1500 in3 (24
580 cm3), including the volume of the con-
necting line. Install a pressure gauge on
the reservoir.
17.4 Operate the compressor at 2100 rpm,
while checking the amount of time needed
to raise the reservoir pressure from 85 psi
(585 kPa) to 100 psi (690 kPa).
For Tu-Flo 501s, the time must not exceed
seven seconds.

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
AIR LEAKAGE TEST
1. Build up air system pressure until the governor
cuts out, then stop the engine.
2. Remove the air intake adapter from the compres-
sor.
3. With the engine stopped, listen for escaping air
at the compressor intake port.
4. If there is noticeable leakage, drain the air from
all air reservoirs, then remove the air governor.
Attach a compressed-air hose to the unloader
port, apply air pressure, and again listen for es-
caping air at the compressor intake port.
If there is no longer any noticeable leakage, air
was escaping past the discharge valves; refer to
Subject 120.
If there is still noticeable leakage, the unloader
pistons are leaking; refer to Subject 110.

Specifications
Fastener Torque Values

Torque
Application
lbf·in (N·cm) lbf·ft (N·m)
Governor Mount Bolts, Cummins Engine — 11-15 (15-20)
Connecting Rod Bolts 125-140 (1420-1580) —
Crankcase-to-Cylinder-Block Bolts, Tu-Flo 700 — 28 (40)
End-Cover or Flange Adapter Capscrews, Tu-Flo 700 175-225 (1980-2540) —
End-Cover 5/16-Inch Capscrews or Studs and Nuts, Tu-Flo 501 — 15-18 (20-25)
Die Cast Aluminum End-Cover 7/16-Inch Capscrews, Tu-Flo 501 — 25-30 (35-40)
Cast Iron End-Cover 7/16-Inch Capscrews, Tu-Flo 501 — 38-45 (50-60)
Cast Iron Flange Adapter 7/16-Inch Capscrews, Tu-Flo 501 — 38-45 (50-60)
Cylinder Head Bolts:
Tu-Flo 700 175-225 (1980-2540) —
Tu-Flo 501 — 25-30 (35-40)
Crankcase Cover:
1/4-20 Bolts, Tu-Flo 700 85-115 (960-1300) —
5/16-18 Bolts, Tu-Flo 700 95-125 (1080-1420) —
Crankcase Cover Bolts, Tu-Flo 501 — 12-16 (16-22)
Table 1, Fastener Torque Values
Compressor Rebuild Specifications

Description inches (mm)
Discharge Valve Travel, Minimum/Maximum:
0.030/0.046 (0.76/1.17)
Tu-Flo 700
0.041/0.057 (1.04/1.45)
Tu-Flo 501
Fit Between Discharge Valve Stop and Bore, Tu-Flo 501 0.0008-0.0028 (0.020-0.071)
Fit Between Crankcase Bore and Ball-Type Main Bearings 0-0.0015 (0-0.038)
Clearance for Crankshaft Main Journals to i.d. of Sleeve-Type Main
Bearing, Maximum: 0.005 (0.13)
Tu-Flo 700 0.0065 (0.165)
Tu-Flo 501
Crankshaft Main Journal Standard Diameter 1.1242-1.1250 (28.555-28.575)
Clearance Between Crankshaft Rod Journals and Connecting Rod
0.0003/0.0021 (0.008/0.053)
Bearing, Minimum/Maximum
Crankshaft Rod Journal Standard Diameter * 1.1242-1.1250 (28.555-28.575)
Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round, Maximum 0.001 (0.03)
Cylinder Bore Taper, Maximum 0.002 (0.05)

Specifications
Compressor Rebuild Specifications

Clearance Between Cylinder Bore and Cast Iron Piston, Minimum/
0.002/0.004 (0.05/0.10)
Maximum †
Clearance Between Wrist Pins and Connecting Rod Bushings, Maximum 0.007 (0.0178)
Piston Pin Bearing Bore (Reamed) 0.5314-0.5317 (13.498-13.505)
Clearance Between Wrist Pins and New (Reamed) Connecting Rod
0.0001-0.0006 (0.003-0.015)
Bushings
Piston Ring Groove Clearance, Tu-Flo 700 0.002-0.004 (0.05-0.10)
Compression (Upper) Ring Groove Clearance, Tu-Flo 501 0.002-0.004 (0.05-0.10)
Oil (Lower) Ring Groove Clearance, Tu-Flo 501 0.001-0.003 (0.025-0.075)
Ring Gap (Installed in Cylinder) 0.002-0.010 (0.05-0.255)
* For compressors having reground crankshafts, connecting rod bearing inserts are available in 0.010-inch, 0.020-inch, and 0.030-inch undersizes.
† Oversized pistons and piston rings are available in 0.010-inch, 0.020-inch, and 0.030-inch oversizes.
Table 2, Compressor Rebuild Specifications

General Description
General Description
The Tu-Flo 550 and the Tu-Flo 750 are two cylinder,
single-stage, reciprocating air compressors, which
supply compressed air to the vehicle air system. The
Tu-Flo 550 has a rated displacement of 13.2 cfm
(374 L/min) of air at 1250 rpm.
The Tu-Flo 750 has a rated displacement of 16.5 cfm
(468 L/min) of air at 1250 rpm. The compressor
draws air from the air intake pipe, compresses the
air, and delivers it to the air system supply reservoir.
The compressor runs continuously but has "loaded"
and "unloaded" modes, which are regulated by the
air governor and the compressor loading assembly.
When the governor sends an air signal to the un-
loader assembly, the unloader assembly holds the
compressor air intake valve open so that no more
compressed air is forced into the air system. As air in
the system is used, its pressure drops, and at 90 psi
(620 kPa), the air governor stops the signal to the
compressor. Without the signal, the unloader assem-
bly automatically closes the compressor air intake
valve to force more air into the system.
On vehicles with air dryers, when the system
reaches the cut-out pressure of 120 psi (825 kPa),
the air governor also sends an air signal to open the
sludge ejector in the air dryer.

Removal auxiliary drive housing, accessory drive, or timing

gear plate. Refer to the engine shop manual or
rebuild manual for final torque specification.
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and
drain the air system. 2. Install the compressor support bracket, if so
equipped.
WARNING 3. On Cummins and DDE engines, install a new
gasket, install the fuel pump. Connect the wire to
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are the fuel shutoff valve (if so equipped). Refer to
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may the engine shop manual or rebuild manual for
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the instructions.
manufacturer. Wear goggles when using com- 4. With a new air governor mounting gasket, install
pressed air to clean or dry parts, as permanent the air governor.
harm to eyes could result from flying debris. 5. Identify and connect all air, coolant, and oil lines
2. Using a cleaning solvent, remove road dirt and to the compressor.
grease from the outside of the compressor, then 6. Fill the engine cooling system; refer to the cool-
dry the compressor with compressed air. ing section in the vehicle service manual for in-
3. Drain the radiator coolant; refer to the cooling structions.
section in the vehicle service manual for instruc- 7. Operate the engine and check for leaks.
tions.
4. Marking their locations and positions, disconnect
all air, coolant, and oil lines attached to the com-
pressor.
5. Remove the air governor, and the governor
mounting gasket.
6. On Cummins and DDE engines, disconnect the
wire to the fuel shutoff valve (if so equipped).
Remove the fuel pump and gasket; refer to the
engine shop manual or rebuild manual for in-
structions.
7. Remove the compressor support bracket, if so
equipped.
8. Support the compressor, and remove the bolts
that attach it to the auxiliary drive housing, ac-
cessory drive, or timing gear plate. Remove the
compressor, gasket, and splined coupling, if so
equipped.
9. Discard all mounting gaskets.
Installation
IMPORTANT: Be sure the gasket surfaces are
cleaned and not damaged.
1. Install the splined coupling (if so equipped) and a
new compressor gasket. Hold the compressor in
place, and install the bolts that attach it to the

Removal 2
3
1. Chock the tires; then drain the air from all air
reservoirs. 1
4
WARNING 5
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are 6

toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may 15 7
8
manufacturer. Wear goggles when using com- 9
pressed air to clean or dry parts, as permanent
harm to eyes could result from flying debris. 16
17
18
grease from the outside of the compressor, then
dry the compressor with compressed air. 19 10
11
3. Drain the radiator coolant; refer to the cooling 12
section in the vehicle service manual for instruc- 20 13
tions. 14
4. Remove the cylinder head from the crankcase
(see Fig. 1). 21
4.1 Scribe an alignment mark across the cylin-

der head and the crankcase, for assembly
alignment.
IMPORTANT: Do not use a marking method,
such as chalk, that can be wiped off during
assembling.
01/15/96 f010594
4.2 Note positions of any attached compo-
nents, then remove the cylinder head cap- 1. Cylinder Head 11. Inlet Valve Seat
screws. Capscrew 12. Inlet Valve
2. Unloader Plate 13. Inlet Valve Spring
4.3 Tap the cylinder head with a soft mallet to Capscrew 14. Inlet Valve Stop
break the gasket seal. Remove the cylin- 3. Unloader Plate 15. Cylinder Head
der head. Lockwasher 16. Discharge Valve Stop
4. Unloader Plate 17. Discharge Valve
5. Unloader Plate Spring
Installation Gasket 18. Discharge Valve
6. O-Ring 19. Discharge Valve Seat
1. Scrape off any gasket material from the cylinder 7. Unloader Piston 20. Cylinder Head
head and the crankcase. 8. Spring Gasket
9. Unloader Bushing 21. Crankcase
10. Gasket
WARNING Fig. 1, Cylinder Head Assembly
WARNING: Wear goggles when using com-
2. Using compressed air, blow dirt particles or gas-
pressed air to clean or dry parts, as permanent
ket material from all cylinder cavities.
harm to eyes could result from flying debris.
3. Install the cylinder head on the compressor
crankcase.

3.1 Place a new cylinder head gasket on the

crankcase. If the cylinder head gasket has
a bead on one side, install the gasket with
the bead side up.
3.2 Using the previously marked alignment,
position the cylinder head on the crank-
case.
3.3 Position on the cylinder head any brack-
ets, spacers, or clamps that were re-
moved; then install the cylinder head cap-
screws and tighten them evenly, in a cross
pattern 37 to 42 lbf·ft (50 to 57 N·m).
4. Connect the air discharge line and the water
lines to the cylinder head.
5. Fill the engine cooling system; refer to cooling
section in the vehicle service manual.
6. Operate the engine and make sure there are no
coolant leaks.

Cylinder Head Disassembly, Cleaning and Inspection,
and Assembly
Disassembly 2
3
NOTE: For an illustation of the cylinder head
1
assembly, see Fig. 1. 4
1. Remove the compressor from the vehicle. For
instructions, see Subject 100. 5
2. Place the compressor on a suitable work sur- 6

face. Remove the cylinder head from the crank- 7
15
case. For instructions, see Subject 110.
8
3. Remove the unloader mechanism.
9
3.1 Remove the unloader plate capscrews,
lockwashers, and the unloader plate. 16
Scrape off any gasket material from the 17
unloader plate and the cylinder head. 18
3.2 Remove and discard the unloader pis- 19 10
tons, O-rings, and springs. 11
12
4. Check the unloader piston bushings. If damaged 20 13
or worn excessively, replace the compressor. 14
NOTE: Before disassembling the discharge
21
valve mechanism, measure and record the dis-
charge valve travel from closed to completely
open. If the measurement exceeds 0.046 inch
(1.17 mm), replace the compressor. If the mea-
surement is within 0.046 inch, proceed to the
next step.
5. Using a 9/16-inch Allen wrench, remove and dis-
card the discharge valve seats, discharge valves, 01/15/96 f010594
and discharge valve springs.
1. Cylinder Head 11. Inlet Valve Seat
6. Remove and discard the inlet valve stops and Capscrew 12. Inlet Valve
springs, along with the inlet valves, inlet valve 2. Unloader Plate 13. Inlet Valve Spring
seats, and gaskets. Capscrew 14. Inlet Valve Stop
3. Unloader Plate 15. Cylinder Head
Lockwasher 16. Discharge Valve Stop
Cleaning and Inspection 4. Unloader Plate 17. Discharge Valve
5. Unloader Plate Spring
1. Remove carbon deposits from the discharge cav- Gasket 18. Discharge Valve
6. O-Ring 19. Discharge Valve Seat
ity, rust and scale from the cooling cavities.
7. Unloader Piston 20. Cylinder Head
2. Clean carbon and dirt from the inlet and unloader 8. Spring Gasket
passages. 9. Unloader Bushing 21. Crankcase
10. Gasket
3. Scrape all foreign material from the body sur-
faces. Fig. 1, Cylinder Head Assembly (exploded view)

Cylinder Head Disassembly, Cleaning and Inspection,
and Assembly
2.1 Install the new inlet valve gaskets, new

WARNING inlet valve seats, new inlet valves, and
the new inlet valve springs into their
Commercial cleaning solvents are toxic, can bores.
cause severe skin irritation, and may be fire haz-
ards. When using solvents, follow the safety pre- 2.2 Install the new inlet valve stops and
cautions recommended by the solvent manufac- tighten 70 to 90 lbf·ft (95 to 122 N·m).
turer. Wear goggles when using compressed air 3. Install the new discharge valve springs, new dis-
to clean or dry parts, as permanent harm to eyes charge valves, and the new discharge valve
could result from flying debris. seats into their bores. Tighten the seats 70 to 90
4. Using solvent, thoroughly clean all metal parts lbf·ft (95 to 122 N·m). The discharge valve travel
removed from the cylinder head. Using shop air, should be 0.030 inches to 0.046 inch (0.762 mm
blow the dirt particles from the cavities and pas- to 1.17 mm).
sages. 4. Test for leakage at the discharge valves by ap-
5. Check that all cavities and passages are clear, plying 100 psi (690 kPa) through the cylinder
including the inlet and unloader. head discharge port and apply soap solution to
the discharge valve and seat. Leakage in the
6. Check that all mating surfaces are clean of old form of soap bubbles is permissible.
gasket material. Remove any old material.
If there’s extreme leakage, leave the air pressure
7. Inspect the cylinder head for cracks or damage. applied and with a hardwood dowel and a ham-
8. With the cylinder head and head gasket secured mer, tap the discharge valves off of their seats
to a flat surface or to the crankcase, apply shop several times. This will improve the seal between
air pressure to one of the coolant ports with all the discharge valve and the valve seat and
other ports plugged. should reduce leakage.
9. Check for leaks by applying a soap solution to If there’s still extreme leakage, replace the dis-
the exterior of the body. If leakage is detected, charge valve seats.
replace the compressor. With the air pressure still applied at the dis-
charge port of the cylinder head, check for leak-
Assembly age around the discharge valve stop on top of
the cylinder head. No leakage is permitted.
NOTE: For an illustation of the cylinder head 5. Install the compressor cylinder head. For instruc-
assembly, see Fig. 1. tions, see Subject 110.
1. Install the unloader mechanism. 6. Tighten the unloader plate capscrews 15 to 18
1.1 With the unloader pistons being prelubri- lbf·ft (20 to 25 N·m).
cated from the manufacturer, install the 7. Install the compressor on the engine. For instruc-
new unloader springs, and the new un- tions, see Subject 100.
loader pistons. The unloader piston
O-rings are pre-installed on the unloader
pistons.
1.2 Install the new unloader plate gasket and
the unloader plate.
1.3 Install the unloader plate lockwashers and
capscrews. Tighten the capscrews 15 to
18 lbf·ft (20 to 25 N·m) in a cross pattern.
2. Install the inlet valve mechanism.

Crankcase Disassembly, Cleaning and Inspection,
and Assembly
Disassembly bearing from the crankcase; then press

the ball bearing from the crankshaft.
1. Remove the compressor from the vehicle and 5.5 Remove and discard the front and rear
place it on a suitable work surface. For instruc- thrustwashers.
tions, see Subject 100.
2. Remove the air compressor cylinder head. For Cleaning and Inspection
instructions, see Subject 110.
1. Scrape off any gasket material from the top and
3. Before disassembling the compressor, use a
bottom of the crankcase.
metal scribe to mark the parts with matching
numbers or lines.
WARNING
such as chalk, that can be wiped off during as- Commercial cleaning solvents are toxic, can
sembling. cause severe skin irritation, and may be fire haz-
ards. When using solvents, follow the safety pre-
4. Remove the pistons and connecting rods. See
cautions recommended by the solvent manufac-
Fig. 1.
turer. Wear goggles when using compressed air
4.1 Remove the base plate capscrews. to clean or dry parts, as permanent harm to eyes
could result from flying debris.
4.2 Tap the base plate with a soft mallet to
break the gasket seal. 2. Clean all parts with solvent, before inspecting
them, and dry the parts with compressed air.
4.3 Scrape off any gasket material from the
crankcase and base plate. 3. Clean all oil passages through the crankshaft,
crankcase, end cover, and base plate. Inspect
4.4 Remove the connecting rod bolts and the passages with a wire to be sure they are
connecting rod caps. clear.
4.5 Push the pistons and connecting rods out 4. Check the fit of the new pistons, piston rings,
through the cylinder bore of the crank- and connecting rods.
case. Discard the pistons and connecting
rod assemblies including the connecting 4.1 The pistons for the Tu-Flo 750 compres-
rod caps and the connecting rod bolts. sor are similar to the Tu-Flo 550 and may
be identified by the distance from the
5. Remove the crankshaft. center of the wrist pin to the top of the
5.1 Remove the key or keys from the crank- piston. See Fig. 2.
shaft and any burrs from the crankshaft 4.2 To check the ring gap, place the ring in
where the key or keys were removed. the top of the cylinder bore and, using a
NOTE: Some compressors may have a piston, push the ring to mid-point of the
crankshaft key at each end. cylinder bore and check the ring gap. The
gap for compression rings must be 0.002
5.2 Remove the end-cover capscrews, the to 0.013 inch (0.051 to 0.33 mm).
end cover, end-cover seal, and the rear
thrustwasher. The gap for oil ring and expander ring
must be 0.010 to 0.040 inch (0.255 to
5.3 If the compressor has sleeve bearings, 1.016 mm). See Fig. 3, and Table 1.
remove and discard the sleeve bearings
from the crankcase and the end cover. Ring End Gap: inch (mm)
5.4 If the compressor has a ball-type main Compression 0.002–0.013 (0.051–0.33)
bearing, remove the rear snap ring (if so Oil and Expander 0.010–0.040 (0.255–1.016)
equipped). Press the crankshaft and ball
Table 1

and Assembly
4
4
5
6
5
7 9
8
4
5
6 17
5
19
18
13
12
10 14 16
11
15
12
14
20
23
21
1 22
01/15/96 3 f010595
1. Base Gasket 9. Wrist Pin Button 17. End Cover Capscrew
2. Base Plate 10. Crankshaft 18. Wrist Pin Bushing
3. Base Plate Capscrew 11. Crankshaft Key 19. Connecting Rod
4. Compression Ring 12. Thrust Washer 20. Connecting Rod Bearing (Sets)
5. Oil Ring 13. Crankcase 21. Connecting Rod Cap
6. Expander Ring 14. Sleeve Bearing 22. Connecting Rod Bolt
7. Piston 15. End Cover Sleeve 23. Ball Bearing
8. Wrist Pin 16. End Cover
Fig. 1
4.3 Check the fit of the piston rings in the pis- ance for the expander and oil rings is
ton ring grooves. Groove clearance for 0.000 to 0.006 inch (0.000 to 0.152 mm).
the compression ring is 0.002 to 0.004
5. Inspect the crankcase.
inch (0.051 to 0.10 mm). Groove clear-

and Assembly
eter. If the crankshaft is extremely scored

2.78 2.78 or worn out-of-round, and cannot be re-
ground, replace it.
NOTE: If the crankshaft needs to be re-
1.25 1.06
ground or replaced, do so before proceeding
to the next step. For compressors having
2.17
reground crankshafts, connecting rod bear-
ing inserts are available in 0.010 inch (0.254
1 2
mm), 0.020 inch (0.508 mm), and 0.030 inch
(0.762 mm) undersize.
06/22/93 f010603
1. Tu-Flo 550 Compressor Piston
2. Tu-Flo 750 Compressor Piston Assembly (See Fig. 1)
Fig. 2, Piston Comparison 1. For compressor with sleeve bearings, install the
crankshaft and end cover as follows:
5.1 Check the crankcase surfaces for cracks
and damage. 1.1 Press the new sleeve bearings into the
end cover and crankcase. Make sure the
5.2 On compressors where main ball bear- slot in the bearings line up with the oil
ings are used, measure the difference passages in the end cover and crank-
between the outside diameter of the ball case.
bearing outer race and the inside diam-
eter of the crankcase bore should be If there is no oil passage present in the
0.0003 inch (0.008 mm) tight to 0.0023 crankcase, press the sleeve bearing into
inch (0.058 mm) loose. This is to maintain the crankcase with the slot located 90
a correct fit. Replace the compressor if degrees from vertical.
the fit is too loose. 1.2 Install the new front thrustwasher with the
5.3 Check the end cover for cracks and dam- tang inserted in the slot toward the
age; replace them as necessary. flange.
5.4 Check the cylinder bore with an inside 1.3 Insert the crankshaft and the rear thrust-
micrometer or with calipers. Cylinder washer with the tang toward the end
bores which are scored, out-of-round, or cover of the compressor.
tapered more than 0.0005 inch (0.013 1.4 Place the end-cover seal on the boss of
mm) should be rebored and honed over- the end cover.
size. Oversized pistons and piston rings
are available in 0.010 inch (0.254 mm), 1.5 Install the end cover making sure not to
0.020 inch (0.508 mm), and 0.030 inch pinch the end cover seal and the tang of
(0.762 mm) oversize. the rear thrustwasher is inserted in the
slot of the end cover. Install the cap-
6. Inspect the crankshaft. screws and tighten the capscrews 15 to
6.1 Check the crankshaft splines, gear teeth, 18 lbf·ft (20 to 25 N·m) in a cross pattern.
tapered ends, and all machined and 2. If one end of the compressor uses a ball-type
ground surfaces for wear, scoring, or main bearing, install the crankshaft and end-
damage. Repair the damage, or replace covers as follows:
the crankshaft if needed.
2.1 Press the new sleeve bearings into the
6.2 Check the crankshaft connecting rod jour- crankcase. Make sure the slots in the
nals for extreme scoring, and measure bearings line up with the oil passage in
them for out-of-round wear. Standard the end cover and crankcase.
crankshaft journals are 1.1242 to 1.1250
inches (28.555 to 28.575 mm) in diam-

and Assembly
2
.002 (in) .050 (mm)
3 .004 .100
1
3
.000 (in) .000 (mm)
.006 .153
1
2 2
3
B
06/22/93 f010604
A. Side Clearance B. Ring End Gap With Ring In The Cylinder Bore
1. Compression Ring 3. Expander Ring
2. Oil Ring 4. End Gap
Fig. 3
If there is no oil passage present in the press the ball bearing and the crankshaft
crankcase, press the sleeve bearing into into the crankcase. Install the retainer ring
the crankcase with the slot located 90 if so equipped.
degrees from vertical.
3. Assemble the new piston rings on the new pis-
2.2 Install the new front thrustwasher with the tons.
tang inserted in the slot toward the
flange. IMPORTANT: To properly test a compressor
under operating conditions, a test rack is
2.3 Press the ball bearing onto the correct necessary for correct mounting, cooling, lu-
end of the crankshaft, so that the drive bricating, and driving the compressor.
end of the crankshaft will be positioned in
the crankcase as marked before disas- NOTE: Install the piston rings on the pistons
sembly. Using an arbor press, carefully starting at the center of the piston and mov-

and Assembly
ing outward. Rotate the piston rings in their 5.5 Tighten the new connecting rod bolts
respective grooves so that the end gap is at evenly in increments of 11 to 13 lbf·ft (15
least 90 degrees from the previous ring’s to 17 N·m).
end gap. 5.6 Turn the crankshaft so its number-two
3.1 Install the expander ring in the piston connecting rod journal is in the down-
groove. The ends of the expander ring ward, center position.
must butt and must not overlap. 5.7 Install the number-two connecting rod and
3.2 Install the bottom oil ring by inserting one piston in the same manner as described
end below the expander ring in the ring above.
groove, and wind the ring into position. 6. Before replacing the cylinder head on the crank-
Install the top oil ring in the same manner case, ensure that the correct pistons have been
above the expander ring making sure the used by turning the crankshaft one complete
gap is staggered from the bottom oil ring revolution such that each piston moves to its
and the expander ring. maximum upward stroke. At the upward stroke
3.3 Install the compression rings in the cor- position, each piston should move to the top of
rect grooves, with the bevel or "pip" mark the crankcase. If the piston does not approach
(if any) toward the top of the piston. the top of the crankcase, the piston is incorrect
and if not replaced could result in compressor
4. Assemble the new connecting rods on the new damage.
pistons.
7. Install the base plate.
4.1 Lubricate the wrist pins and the wrist pin
bushings in the connecting rods with 7.1 Position the gasket on the crankcase. In-
clean engine oil. stall the base plate on the crankcase as
marked before disassembly.
4.2 Position the connecting rods in the pis-
tons and press in the wrist pins. Secure 7.2 Tighten the six capscrews 15 to 18 lbf·ft
the wrist pins by installing the wrist pin (20 to 25 N·m) in a cross pattern.
buttons in the ends of the wrist pins. 8. Install the cylinder head on the crankcase,and
5. Install the new pistons and new connecting rods. the compressor on the engine. For instructions,
see Subject 110.
5.1 Apply clean engine oil to both pistons, the
piston rings, the wrist pins, the connecting 9. Operate the engine and check for leaks.
rod caps and the new connecting rod
bearings.
5.2 Turn the crankshaft so its number-one
rod journal (the one nearer the drive end)
is down and centered.
5.3 Using a piston ring compressor, insert the
number-one connecting rod and piston
through the top of the number-one cylin-
der bore.
NOTE: The connecting rods and connecting
rod caps are matched sets, therefore the
caps must not be switched or rotated end for
end.
5.4 Install the connecting rod bearings on the
connecting rod and connecting rod cap.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Excessive Oil Passage

Restricted air intake. Check engine air filter and replace if necessary. Check compressor air inlet for
kinks and excessive bends. Repair as needed.
Restricted oil return line to engine. Check for excessive bends, kinks, and restrictions in oil return line. Return line
must descend from compressor to engine crankcase. Repair as needed.
Damaged oil seal ring or loose end cover. Inspect oil seal ring for wear or damage. Repair as needed. Check the end
cover capscrew torques and tighten as necessary.
Insufficient compressor cooling Remove grease, grime, or dirt from the cooling fins of the compressor. Check
(compressor runs hot). for damaged cooling fins. Replace components found damaged. Check for
correct coolant line sizes. Check the coolant flow through the compressor.
Minimum allowable flow is 2.5 gallons per minute at maximum engine
governed speed, and minimum allowable flow is 0.5 gallons per minute at
engine idle. If low, inspect the coolant lines for rust scale, kinks, and
restrictions. Repair or replace as necessary.
Compressor runs loaded an excessive Check air lines and connections for leakage. Repair or replace lines and
amount of time. connections until leakage is eliminated.
Back pressure from the engine crankcase. Check for excessive engine crankcase pressure. Repair or replace ventilation
components as necessary.
NOTE: An indication of crankcase pressure is a loose or partially lifted
dipstick.
Excessive engine oil pressure. Check the engine oil pressure with a test gauge, and compare the reading to
the engine specification. Do not restrict the compressor oil supply line.
Malfunctioning compressor. Replace or repair the compressor after making certain none of the preceding
conditions exist.
Problem—Noisy Compressor Operation

Loose drive coupling or gear (as Inspect the fit of the drive coupling and gear on the compressor crankshaft.
indicated). Tighten or replace the components. If the crankshaft keyway is damaged,
replace the compressor.
Compressor cylinder head or discharge Inspect the compressor discharge port and discharge line for carbon build-up.
line restrictions. If carbon is detected, remove the carbon and check for proper coolant flow to
the compressor. Inspect the discharge line for kinks and restrictions. Replace
the discharge line as necessary.
Air compressor bearing damaged or worn. Replace the bearings.
Malfunctioning compressor. Rebuild or replace the compressor after making certain none of the preceding
conditions exist.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Excessive Build-Up and Recovery Time

Restricted discharge or compressor Inspect the compressor discharge port and line for restrictions and carbon
discharge cavity. build-up. If carbon is detected, remove the carbon. Check for proper cooling to
Slipping drive components. Check for faulty drive gears and coupling, and replace as necessary.
Excessive air system leakage (not Check all valves, air lines, and connections for leakage. Repair or replace
including the air compressor). valves and lines until leakage is eliminated.
Unloader pistons seized. Check the operation of the unloading mechanism. Check for corrosion and
contamination of unloader pistons. Check for correct operation of the
compressor air governor. If the governor is operating properly, repair or
replace the unloading mechanism.
Malfunctioning compressor. Rebuild or replace the compressor after making certain none of the preceding
conditions exist.
Problem—Compressor Fails to Unload

Faulty or worn unloader pistons or bores. Inspect for worn, dirty, or corroded unloader pistons and bores. Replace as
necessary.
Malfunctioning governor. Check the setting with an accurate test gauge. Repair or replace the air
governor.
Unloader air lines from governor damaged. Inspect the air lines to and from the governor for kinks or restrictions. Repair
or replace the air lines.

Specifications
Torque Values Torque Values

Description Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Description Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Cylinder Head 37–42 (50–57) Bottom Cover 15–18 (20–25)
Unloader Cover Plate 15–18 (20–25) Inlet Fitting 15–18 (20–25)
Discharge Valve Seat 70–90 (95–122) Discharge Fitting 15–18 (20–25)
Inlet Valve Stop 70–90 (95–122) Governor or Governor Adaptor 15–18 (20–25)
End Cover 15–18 (20–25) Table 1, Torque Values
Connecting Rod 11–13 (15–17)
Compressor Specifications
Discharge Valve Travel (Minimum/Maximum) 0.030/0.046 (0.76/1.17)
Fit Between Crankcase Bore and Ball-Type Main Bearing (Minimum/Maximum) 0.0003/0.0023 (0.008/0.058)
Clearance for Crankshaft Main Journals to i.d. of Sleeve-Type Main Bearing 0.005 (0.13)
(Maximum)
Crankshaft Main Journal Standard Diameter 1.1242-1.1250 (28.555-28.575)
Clearance Between Crankshaft Rod Journals and Connecting Rod Bearing (Minimum/ 0.0003/0.0021 (0.008/0.053)
Maximum)
Crankshaft Rod Journal Standard Diameter* 1.1242-1.1250 (28.555-28.575)
Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round (Maximum) 0.0005 (0.013)
Cylinder Bore Taper (Maximum) 0.0005 (0.013)
Clearance Between Cylinder Bore and Cast Iron Piston (Minimum/Maximum)† 0.002/0.004 (0.05/0.10)
Clearance Between Wrist Pins and Connecting Rod Bushings (Maximum) 0.0007 (0.0178)
Compression Ring Groove Clearance 0.002-0.004 (0.05-0.10)
Oil and Expander Ring Groove Clearance 0.00-0.006 (0.00-0.153)
Compression Ring Gap (Installed in Cylinder) 0.002-0.013 (0.05-0.176)
Oil and Expander Ring Gap (Installed in Cylinder) 0.010-0.040 (0.255-1.016)
* For compressors having reground crankshafts, undersize connecting rod bearing inserts are available in 0.010 inch (0.254 mm), 0.020 inch (0.508 mm), and
0.030 inch (0.762 mm).
† Oversized pistons and piston rings are available in 0.010 inch (0.254 mm), 0.020 inch (0.508 mm), and 0.030 inch (0.762 mm).
Table 2, Compressor Specifications

Air Governor, Bendix D–2 13.02
General Description Principles of Operation

The governor (Fig. 1), operating in conjunction with Pressurized air enters the D-2 governor at one of its
the compressor unloading mechanism, automatically reservoir ports, and acts on the area of the piston
controls the air pressure in the air brake or air supply and beneath the inlet and exhaust valve. See Fig. 2.
system between the desired, predetermined maxi- As air pressure builds up, the piston moves against
mum and minimum pressures. Normal air pressure in the resistance of the pressure-setting spring. The
all Freightliner vehicles is 95 to 125 psi (655 to 862 piston and inlet and exhaust valve move up when the
kPa). The compressor runs continuously while the reservoir air pressure reaches the cut-out setting of
engine runs, but the actual compression of air is con- the governor. The exhaust stem seats on the inlet
trolled by the governor actuating the compressor un- and exhaust valve, and then the inlet passage
loading mechanism, which stops or starts compres- opens. Reservoir air then flows by the open inlet
sion when the maximum or minimum reservoir valve, through the passage in the piston, and out the
pressures are reached. The D-2 governor has a pis- unloader port to the compressor unloading mecha-
ton upon which air pressure acts to overcome the nism. Air also flows around the piston, and acts upon
pressure setting spring, and control the inlet and ex- the additional area of the piston. This added force,
haust valve to either admit or exhaust air to or from which results from a larger area on the piston, en-
the compressor unloading mechanism. sures a positive action and fully opens the inlet
D-2 governors have mounting holes, which allow for valve.
direct mounting to the compressor. As the system reservoir air pressure drops to the
cut-in setting of the governor, the force exerted by
Porting consists of 3 reservoir ports (1/8-inch NPT), 3
unloader ports (1/8-inch NPT), and 1 exhaust port the air pressure on the piston will be reduced so that
the pressure-setting spring will move the piston
(1/8-inch NPT).
down. The inlet valve will close and the exhaust will
open. With the exhaust open, the air in the unloader
1 line will escape back through the piston, through the
exhaust stem and out the exhaust port.
3
3 2
3
4 2
4
4
01/11/94 f420038a
1. Top Cover 4. Reservoir Port

2. Mounting Hole 5. Exhaust Port
3. Unloader Port
Fig. 1

13.02 Air Governor, Bendix D–2
1
2
3
17
4
16
15
14
5
13
6
11
12
11 7
10
9 8
09/28/94 f420301a
1. Cover 10. Inlet and Exhaust
2. Adjusting Screw Valve
3. Adjusting Screw 11. O-Rings
Locknut 12. Exhaust Stem
4. Body O-Ring
5. Exhaust Stem Spring 13. Lower Spring Seats
6. Exhaust Stem 14. Spring Guide
7. Filters 15. Pressure-Setting
8. Piston Spring
9. Inlet and Exhaust 16. Upper Spring Seat
Valve Spring 17. Retaining Ring
Fig. 2

Operating and Leakage Tests
Tests
1
The following test should be performed whenever the
vehicle air pressure is incorrect and the causes are
unknown.
If the air governor does not function as described or
if leakage is excessive, replace it with a new or re-
manufactured unit, or repair it using genuine Bendix 5
parts and the instructions in this section.
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires. Tilt 3
the cab or hood. For cab tilt instructions, see 3 2
Group 60. 3
2. Start the engine and build up air pressure in the
4 2
air brake system.
4
IMPORTANT: Make sure the test gauge is regis-
4
tering accurately before using it to check or ad- 01/11/94 f420038a
just the air governor. 1. Top Cover 4. Reservoir Port
3. Using a test gauge attached to the supply reser- 2. Mounting Hole 5. Exhaust Port
voir, check the pressure at the time the air gover- 3. Unloader Port
nor cuts out. The cut-out pressure should be 120
to 130 psi (827 to 896 kPa). Fig. 1, Air Governor
4. With the engine still running, make a series of

brake applications to reduce the air pressure and
observe at what pressure the air governor cuts in
the compressor. The minimum cut-in pressure
should be 100 psi (689 kPa).
5. If either the cut-out or cut-in pressures are incor-
rect, proceed to Subject 130.
6. Test the leakage on the air governor in both the
cut-in and cut-out positions, as follows:
6.1 With the compressor in the cut-in position,
apply a soap solution to the air governor
exhaust port. See Fig. 1. A slight bubble
leakage is permitted. Excessive leakage
indicates that the inlet valve or lower pis-
ton O-ring is worn out.
6.2 With the compressor in the cut-out posi-
tion, apply a soap solution to the air gov-
ernor exhaust port. See Fig. 1. A slight
bubble leakage is permitted. Excessive
leakage indicates that the exhaust valve
seat, stem, O-ring, or upper piston O-ring
is worn out.
7. Return the cab or hood to the operating position
and remove the chocks from the tires. For cab tilt
instructions, see Group 60.

Removal 4. Connect the reservoir and unloader port air lines

(Fig. 2) as referenced earlier. Tighten the fittings
11 to 13 lbf·ft (15 to 18 N·m).
1. Chock the tires, and drain the air brake system.
Tilt the cab or hood. Refer to the vehicle driver’s
2. Disconnect the reservoir and unloader port air
lines. Mark the lines for later reference. Cap the
air lines tightly to keep out contaminants.
3. Remove the governor mounting bolts, and re-
move the governor, see Fig. 1.
01/11/94 f420303a
1. Unloader Port
2. Port Filters
3. Reservoir Port
01/11/94 f420302a
Fig. 2, Air Governor Cross Section
Fig. 1, Air Governor Removal
5. Perform the operating and leakage tests in Sub-
Installation ject 100.
6. After the tests have been completed and the
1. Clean the mounting pad on both the compressor governor is operating properly, screw the top
and the governor block, and be sure the com- cover on tightly until it seals the body, preventing
pressor unloading port is clear and clean. the entry of any foreign matter.
2. Using a new governor mounting gasket, install 7. If necessary, install new filters in the reservoir
the governor and its mounting bolts. Tighten the and unloader ports. These cup-shaped filters can
bolts 11 to 15 lbf·ft (15 to 20 N·m). be installed with the head of a pencil.
3. Clean the connecting lines after removing the 8. Return the cab or hood to the operating position,
caps, and apply Loctite® 242, or equivalent seal- and remove the chocks from the tires. Refer to
ant in small quantities, to the reservoir and un- the vehicle driver’s manual for instructions.
loader fittings.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Make sure excess sealant does not get
inside the fittings. Loose material inside the
plumbing may clog the governor or other compo-
nents, causing damage.

Disassembly, Cleaning and Inspection, and
Assembly
Disassembly 6. Remove the locknut (Ref. 3), then the hex-

shaped upper spring seat (Ref. 16) from the ad-
1. Remove the governor (see Fig. 1) from the ve- justing screw.
hicle, using the instructions in Subject 110. 7. Remove the pressure-setting spring (Ref. 15),
lower spring seat (Ref. 13), spring guide (Ref.
14), and the other lower spring seat (Ref. 13)
1 from the adjusting screw.
2
3
17 8. Remove the exhaust stem and its spring from
4 the top of the piston. With the body in the in-
16
verted position, tap lightly and remove the piston.
15 9. Remove the inlet and exhaust valve spring (Ref.
14 9) and the valve (Ref. 10) from the piston.
5 10. Remove the two piston O-rings (Ref. 11), and
with a hooked wire, remove the exhaust stem
13
6 O-ring (Ref. 12).
11
11. Clean or remove the unloader and reservoir port
12 filters (Ref. 7).
7
Cleaning and Inspecting
11
1. Clean all metal parts in mineral spirits.
10
2. Wipe all rubber parts dry, using a clean cloth.
9 8 3. Inspect the governor body for cracks or other
09/28/94 f420301a damage. Be particularly careful that all air pas-
1. Cover 10. Inlet and Exhaust
sages in the body, filters, exhaust stem, and pis-
2. Adjusting Screw Valve ton are not obstructed.
3. Adjusting Screw 11. O-Rings 4. Check the springs for cracks, distortion, or corro-
Locknut 12. Exhaust Stem sion.
4. Body O-Ring
5. Exhaust Stem Spring 13. Lower Spring Seats 5. Replace all worn or damaged parts.
6. Exhaust Stem 14. Spring Guide
7. Filters 15. Pressure-Setting
8. Piston Spring Assembly
9. Inlet and Exhaust 16. Upper Spring Seat
Valve Spring 17. Retaining Ring Prior to assembly, lubricate the lower body bore, the
top of the piston, the piston grooves, piston O-rings,
Fig. 1, Air Governor Cross-Section and the spring guide and adjusting screw with Dow
Corning 55-M pneumatic grease, or equivalent.
2. Clean the governor exterior of road dirt and
grease. 1. Install the exhaust stem O-ring (Ref. 12) in its
groove in the stem bore of the piston.
3. Unscrew the top cover (Ref. 1).
2. Install the upper and lower piston O-rings (Ref.
4. With a pair of retaining ring pliers, remove the 11).
spring assembly retaining ring (Ref. 17).
3. Drop the inlet and exhaust valve (Ref. 10) into
5. Remove the adjusting screw (Ref. 2) and spring place at the bottom of the piston.
assembly.
4. Install the inlet and exhaust valve spring (Ref. 9)
with the small end against the valve. Press the

13.02 Air Governor, Bendix D–2
Disassembly, Cleaning and Inspection, and
Assembly
spring down until the larger coiled end snaps into

the groove inside the piston.
5. Position the exhaust stem spring (Ref. 5) over
the exhaust stem. Carefully press the stem into
the stem bore of the piston.
6. Install the piston in the body.
7. Install one lower spring seat (Ref. 13), spring
guide (Ref. 14), the other lower spring seat (Ref.
13), pressure-setting spring (Ref. 15), and the
hex-shaped upper spring seat (Ref. 15) on the
adjusting screw, in that order. Screw the upper
spring seat (Ref. 16) down until the distance
from the top of the seat to the bottom of the
stem head is about 1-7/8 inches (48 mm).
8. Install the locknut (Ref. 3).
9. Before placing the adjusting screw and stem as-
sembly in the governor body, check that the ex-
haust stem (Ref. 6) and its spring are in place in
the piston.
10. Install the adjusting screw (Ref. 2) and spring
assembly, and the retaining ring (Ref. 17).
11. Install the governor on the vehicle, using the in-
structions in Subject 110.

Adjustment
Adjustment 5. Return the cab or hood to the operating position

and remove the chocks from the tires.
NOTE: An air governor with a dryer reservoir
module (DRM) is not adjustable.
If the pressure settings of the governor are inaccu-
rate or if they need to be changed, proceed as fol-
lows:
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires. Tilt
the cab or hood.
2. Remove the top cover from the governor and
loosen the adjusting screw locknut. See Fig. 1.
1
2
3
01/11/94 f420305a
1. Top Cover
2. Adjusting Screw
3. Adjusting Screw Locknut
Fig. 1, Air Governor
3. To raise the pressure settings, turn the adjusting

screw counterclockwise. To lower the pressure
setting, turn the adjusting screw clockwise.
NOTE: The pressure range between cut in and
cut out is not adjustable.
If these adjustments do not correct the pressure
settings, repair or replace the governor using
the instructions in this section.
4. Tighten the adjusting screw locknut and install
the top cover.

Air Compressor, Cummins 13.03
General Information
General Information
The Cummins 18.7 cfm compressor is used on the
ISM, ISX, ISC, N14 and Signature 600 engine. This
compressor is a single cylinder engine-driven, piston-
type compressor that supplies compressed air to op-
erate air powered actuators on the vehicle. The com-
pressor is geared directly to the engine which serves
to operate the compressor and any accessory that is
connected on the rear flange. The compressor will
deliver air out of the exhaust port when the unloader
port is at atmospheric pressure and will stop air de-
livery when the unloader port is pressurized to the
system pressure between 100 to 125 psi (689 to 862
kPa). A governor determines the "cut-in" (start of
pumping) and "cut-out" (termination of pumping) of
the compressor by supplying the proper control sig-
nal to the unloader port. The governor is sensing the
pressure in the air supply tank or "wet tank." If the
output air pressure is inadvertently blocked or re-
quired to exceed 250 psi (1724 kPa), the compressor
will stop air delivery. The air will be recycled within
the compressor and no mechanical harm will be
done.

Removal 10.2 Remove the compressor rear support

bracket, if equipped.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the 10.3 Support the air compressor, and remove
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock the bolts that attach it to the auxiliary drive
the rear tires. housing, accessory drive, or timing gear
plate. Remove the compressor, gasket
DANGER and splined coupling.
10.4 Lift or lower the air compressor out of the
Before tilting the cab or returning the cab to the engine compartment.
normal operating position, read the instructions
and hazard notices in Section 60.04. Failure to 10.5 Remove and discard the air compressor
follow these instructions could cause the cab to mounting gasket, and clean the mating
fall and hit or crush a person, which will result in surfaces.
severe injury or death.
2. Tilt the hood or cab. Installation
3. Drain the air reservoirs. IMPORTANT: Be sure the gasket surfaces are
cleaned and not damaged.
WARNING 1. Install the air compressor.
Wear goggles when using compressed air to 1.1 Install the splined coupling (if equipped)
clean or dry parts, as permanent harm to eyes and a new compressor gasket. Hold the
could result from flying debris. compressor in place, and install the bolts
4. Using a cleaning solvent, remove road dirt and that attach it to the auxiliary drive housing,
grease from the outside of the air compressor, accessory drive, or timing gear plate. Re-
then dry the air compressor with compressed air. fer to the engine shop manual or rebuild
manual for final torque specification.
5. Drain the radiator coolant below the level of the
air compressor. See Group 20 for instructions. 1.2 Install the compressor support bracket If
equipped.
6. Marking their locations and positions, disconnect
all air, coolant, and oil lines attached to the air 1.3 Using a new air governor mounting gas-
compressor and governor. Remove cushion ket, install the air governor on the com-
clamps and tie straps as needed to move the pressor.
lines out of the way. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. 2. Using a new gasket install the fuel pump on the
7. If equipped with a compressor mounted fuel air compressor. Connect the wire to the fuel
pump disconnect the wire to the fuel shutoff shutoff valve (if equipped). Refer to the engine
valve (if equipped). Remove the fuel pump and shop manual or rebuild manual for final torque
gasket; refer to the engine shop manual or re- specification.
build manual for instructions. 3. Install the steering pump on the air compressor.
8. If equipped with a compressor mounted steering Refer to the engine shop manual or rebuild
pump remove the pump leaving the hoses con- manual for instructions.
nected. refer to the engine shop manual or re- 4. Identify and connect all air, coolant, and oil lines
build manual for instructions. to the compressor and governor. Secure the
9. Support the pump and tie it out of the way. lines as needed with cushion clamps and tie
straps.
10. Remove the air compressor.
5. Fill the engine cooling system. See Group 20 for
10.1 Remove the air governor and mounting instructions.
gasket from the compressor.
6. Operate the engine and check for leaks.

13.03 Air Compressor, Cummins
1 2
3
1
8
5 4
03/03/2000 f011738
1. Coolant Line 5. Air Governor Mounting Bolt
2. Compressor Air Inlet 6. Line to Air Dryer
3. Cushion Clamp 7. Line to Wet Tank
4. Compressor Air Outlet 8. Air Governor
Fig. 1, ISM With Compressor Mounted Fuel Pump (other engines similar)
7. Remove the chocks from the rear tires. and
DANGER
Before tilting the cab or returning the cab to the
normal operating position, read the instructions
and hazard notices in Section 60.04. Failure to
follow these instructions could cause the cab to
fall and hit or crush a person, which will result in
severe injury or death.
8. Return the hood or cab to the operating position.

1 3
1 6
8 4
2
7 5
02/15/2000 f130078
1. Coolant Line 5. Air Dryer Line
2. Air Dryer/Wet Tank Line 6. Air Governor
3. Compressor Air Inlet Hose 7. Oil Feed Line
4. Air Reservoir Line 8. Cylinder Head
Fig. 2, ISC With Compressor Mounted Steering Pump (other engines similar)

Cylinder Head Replacement
Replacement
1 1
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the
rear tires.
2. Drain the air from all air reservoirs.
3. Remove the compressor from the vehicle. See 1
Subject 100 for instructions.
1
4. Mount the compressor on a suitable holding fix-
ture.
WARNING 03/06/2000 f130088

1. Capscrew
Wear goggles when using compressed air to
clean or dry parts, as permanent harm to eyes
Fig. 1, Cylinder Head Capscrews
grease from the outside of the compressor, then
dry the compressor with compressed air.
6. Remove the cylinder head assembly from the
crankcase.
1
6.1 Scribe an alignment mark across the cylin-
der head and the crankcase, for assembly
alignment. 2
such as chalk, that can be wiped off during
assembling.
NOTE: There is no need to remove the
smaller screws.
6.2 Note the positions of any attached compo- 03/06/2000 f130084
nents, then remove the four M8 cylinder
head capscrews. Discard the capscrews. 1. Cylinder Head Assembly
2. Upper Crankcase
See Fig. 1.
6.3 Tap the cylinder head with a soft mallet to Fig. 2, Cylinder Head Removal
break the gasket seal. Remove the cylin-
der head assembly and discard the gas- NOTE: Avoid the use of abrasive products
ket. See Fig. 2. Note the position of the similar to Scotch Brite® because of damage
ports with respect to the crankcase for and abrasive grit left behind.
reassembly.
7.2 Remove any accumulated carbon and var-
6.4 Remove the coolant and air fittings for nish by carefully scraping and light appli-
reuse. Discard the original cylinder head. cation of solvents. Avoid getting debris
and solvents into the clearance between
7. Clean the crankcase.
the piston and bore. Avoid the use of
7.1 Rotate the crankshaft until the piston is at abrasive products similar to Scotch Brite
the top of the cylinder bore. because of damage and abrasive grit left
behind.

Cylinder Head Replacement
14. Operate the engine and check the compressor

WARNING operation. Make sure there are no coolant or air
leaks.
clean or dry parts, as permanent harm to eyes 15. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
Bolt Tightening Sequence
7.3 Using compressed air, blow dirt particles
or gasket material from all cylinder cavi- Step Bolt Torque: lbf·in (N·cm)
Rotation
ties. Degrees
8. Inspect the top crankcase surface. It should be 1 A 177 to 221 (2000 to 2500) —
smooth and free of scratches to enable resealing 2 B 177 to 221 (2000 to 2500) —
on assembly.
3 C 177 to 221 (2000 to 2500) —
9. Transfer the alignment marks from the original 4 D 177 to 221 (2000 to 2500) —
cylinder head to the replacement cylinder head.
5 A — 85 to 105
10. Install the coolant and air fittings on the replace-
ment cylinder head. 6 B — 85 to 105
7 C — 85 to 105
11. Install the cylinder head on the compressor
crankcase. 8 D — 55 to 75
11.1 Position the sliding valve and the guide 9 E 48 to 58 (540 to 660) —
pins in the correct direction to enter the 10 F 48 to 58 (540 to 660) —
larger diameters in the valve body and
11 G 48 to 58 (540 to 660) —
crankcase.
12 H 48 to 58 (540 to 660) —
11.2 Align the marks on the cylinder head and
crankcase. 13 I 48 to 58 (540 to 660) —
14 E — 85 to 105
11.3 Using a new cylinder head gasket, posi-
tion the gasket and head assembly on the 15 F — 85 to 105
crankcase. 16 G — 85 to 105
Note: You should find five cover bolts loosely 17 H — 85 to 105
holding the head assembly together. 18 I — 85 to 105
11.4 Install new capscrews.
B
CAUTION
D
A torque angle gauge and Inch pound torque
wrench must be used to perform the torque-turn E
capscrew tightening sequence. The tightening H
sequence listed in Table 1 must be followed to C
prevent damage to the cylinder head assembly.
11.5 Tighten the capscrews using the bolt tight-
ening sequence In Table 1.
F G
12. Install the compressor. See Subject 100 for in- A I
structions. 03/06/2000 f130087
13. Fill the engine cooling system. See Group 20 for
instructions. Table 1, Bolt Tightening Sequence

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Tables
Restricted oil return hole in front of Remove compressor and check the oil return hole for restrictions. Repair as
compressor. needed.
Defective or worn seal in the rear bearing Replace seal.
cap.
Compressor runs loaded an excessive Check air lines and connections for leakage. Check for a defective governor
amount of time. or restricted line. Replace the governor if necessary. Repair or replace lines
and connections until leakage is eliminated.
Back pressure from the engine crankcase. Check for excessive engine crankcase pressure. Repair or replace ventilation
NOTE: An indication of crankcase pressure is a loose or partially lifted
dipstick.
Excessive engine oil pressure. Check the engine oil pressure with a test gauge, and compare the reading to
the engine specification. Do not restrict the compressor oil supply line.
Malfunctioning compressor. Replace the compressor after making certain none of the preceding conditions
exist.

Loose drive coupling or gear (as Inspect the fit of the drive coupling and gear on the compressor crankshaft.
indicated). Tighten or replace the components. If the crankshaft keyway is damaged,
replace the compressor.
Compressor cylinder head or discharge Inspect the compressor discharge port and discharge line for carbon build-up.
line restrictions. If carbon is detected, remove the carbon and check for proper coolant flow to
Compressor internal engine components Replace the compressor.
damaged or worn.


Troubleshooting

Restricted discharge or compressor Inspect the compressor discharge port and line for restrictions and carbon
discharge cavity. build-up. If carbon is detected, remove the carbon. Check for proper cooling to
Slipping drive components. Check for faulty drive gears and coupling, and replace as necessary.
Excessive air system leakage (not Check all valves, air lines, and connections for leakage. Repair or replace
including the air compressor). valves and lines until leakage is eliminated.
Unloader piston seized. Check the operation of the unloading mechanism. Check for corrosion and
contamination of unloader pistons. Check for correct operation of the
compressor air governor. If the governor is operating properly, replace the
compressor.
Damaged compressor rings, valves, and Replace the compressor.
gaskets.

Malfunctioning governor. Check the setting with an accurate test gauge. Repair or replace the air
governor.
Unloader air lines from governor damaged. Inspect the air lines to and from the governor for kinks or restrictions. Repair
or replace the air lines.
Faulty or worn unloader piston or bore. Replace the compressor.
Problem—Air in Water System/Water in Air System

Problem—Air in Water System/Water in Air System
Internal gasket leakage. Replace the compressor.
Internal casting porosity. Replace the compressor.

Air Compressor, Bendix DuraFlo 596 13.04
General Information
4
The DuraFlo 596 air compressor is a two-cylinder
reciprocating compressor with a rated displacement
of 27 cubic feet per minute. The compressor consists
of a water-cooled cylinder head and valve body as- 3
sembly and an air-cooled integral crankcase and cyl-
inder block. See Fig. 1. The cylinder head is an alu- 2
minum casting that contains the required air and 1
water ports as well as inlet check valves for each
cylinder. The valve body assembly consists of steel 7
upper and lower halves, each of which incorporates
various valve openings and channels for conducting
air and engine coolant in to and out of the cylinder
head. The discharge valves for each cylinder are part
of the valve body assembly.
8
The DuraFlo 596 compressor incorporates an un-
loader system that features and energy saving sys- 09/06/2001 f130109a
tem (ESS) which reduces compressor power con- 1. Crankcase
sumption by approximately 80 percent in the 2. Valve Body Assembly
unloaded mode. The ESS also reduces compressor 3. Cylinder Head
oil consumption (oil passing) when the compressor is 4. Water Inlet Port
in the unloaded mode. 5. Discharge Safety Valve
6. Water Outlet Port
7. Rear Cover Oil Port
Operation 8. Crankcase Bottom Cover
Fig. 1, DuraFlo 596 Air Compressor

The compressor is driven by the vehicle engine and
functions continuously while the engine is in opera-
tion. Actual compression of air is controlled by the
compressor unloading mechanism operating in con-
junction with a remote mounted governor and syn-
chro valve. The governor and synchro valve combi-
nation maintains brake system air pressure between
a preset maximum and minimum pressure level.

Air Compressor Replacement
Replacement 14. Make sure the threads on the discharge and inlet
fittings are clean and free of corrosion. Replace
the fittings if necessary. Install the discharge and
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, shut
inlet fittings on the compressor in the same posi-
down the engine, and open the hood.
tions as noted earlier.
2. Drain the air system.
15. Inspect all air and water lines and fittings before
3. Disconnect the batteries. attaching them to the compressor. Make sure the
O-rings are in good condition. Replace the
WARNING O-rings if necessary. Tighten all hose clamps and
secure the lines with tie straps as needed.
Wear goggles when using compressed air to 16. Fill the engine cooling system. For instructions,
clean or dry parts, as permanent eye injury could see Group 20.
result from flying debris.
grease from the outside of the compressor, then 18. Clean the oil supply line. Before connecting the
dry the compressor with compressed air. oil line to the compressor, run the engine briefly
to be sure oil is flowing freely through the supply
5. Drain the radiator coolant. For instructions, see line.
Group 20.
19. Install the signal booster valve on the compres-
6. Identify and disconnect all air, water, and oil lines sor.
attached to the compressor. Remove tie straps
as needed to move the lines out of the way. 20. Turn on the engine and check for leaks.
7. Note the position of the discharge and inlet fit- 21. Remove the chocks from the tires and lower the
tings before removing the fittings. hood.
8. Remove the signal booster valve that is mounted
on the air compressor.
9. Remove the nuts that attach the air compressor
to the engine and remove the compressor.
IMPORTANT: The replacement air compressor
may not have a drive gear. If the replacement
air compressor does not have a drive gear, fol-
low the instructions in the next step. If the re-
placement air compressor does have a drive
gear, skip the next step.
10. Use a gear puller to remove the drive gear from
the air compressor crankshaft and install it on
the replacement air compressor. Torque the
crankshaft nut 125 lbf·ft (169 N·m).
11. Install the drive gear and torque the crankshaft
nut 125 lbf·ft (169 N·m).
12. Install the gasket on the drive flange of the com-
pressor. Make sure that the oil supply or return
holes in the gasket are properly aligned with the
compressor and engine.
13. Install the compressor on the engine using nuts.

Troubleshooting

Restricted air intake. Check engine or compressor air filter and replace if necessary. Check
compressor air inlet for kinks, excessive bends, and be certain inlet lines have
the minimum specified inside diameter. Recommended maximum air inlet
restriction is 25 inches of water.
Restricted oil return to engine. Make certain oil drain passages in the compressor and mating engine
surfaces are unobstructed and aligned. Correct gaskets must be used. Special
care must be taken when sealants are used with, or instead of, gaskets.
Poorly filtered air inlet. Check for a damaged or dirty air filter on the engine or compressor. Check for
leaking or damaged compressor air intake components such as induction line,
fittings, gaskets, and filter bodies. The compressor intake should not be
connected to any part of the exhaust gas recirculation (E.G.R.) system on the
engine.
Insufficient compressor cooling For air-cooled portions of the compressor:
(compressor runs hot).
• Remove accumulated grease and dirt from the cooling fins. Replace
components found damaged.
• Check for damaged cooling fins. Replace compressor if found dam-
aged.
For water-cooled portions of the compressor:
• Check for proper coolant line sizes. Minimum recommended line i.d. is
3/8 inch.
• Check the coolant flow through the compressor. Minimum allowable
flow is 2.5 gallons per minute at engine governed speed. If low coolant
flow is detected, inspect the coolant lines and fittings for accumulated
rust scale, kinks, and restrictions.
• Water temperature should not exceed 200°F (93°C).
• Optimum cooling is achieved when engine coolant flows as shown in
Fig. 1.
Contaminants not being regularly drained Check reservoir drain valves to insure that they are functioning properly. It is
from system reservoirs. recommended that the vehicle should be equipped with functioning automatic
drain valves or have all reservoirs drained to zero psi daily, or optimally, to be
equipped with a desiccant-type air dryer prior to the reservoir system.
Compressor runs loaded an excessive Vehicle system leakage should not exceed 1 psi pressure drop per minute
amount of time. without brakes applied and 3 psi pressure drop per minute with brakes ap-
plied. If leakage is excessive, check for system leaks and repair.
Excessive engine crankcase pressure. Test for excessive engine crankcase pressure and repair or replace ventilation
NOTE: An indication of crankcase pressure is a loose or partially lifted dip-
stick.
Excessive engine oil pressure. Check the engine oil pressure with a test gauge and compare the reading to
the engine specifications. Do not restrict the compressor oil supply line. Mini-
mum oil supply line size is 3/16-inch i.d.
Malfunctioning compressor. Replace or repair the compressor only after making certain none of the pre-
ceding conditions exist.

13.04 Air Compressor, Bendix DuraFlo 596
Troubleshooting

Loose drive gear or components. Inspect the fit of the drive gear on the compressor crankshaft. The gear or
coupling must be completely seated and the crankshaft nut must be tight. If
the compressor crankshaft surface is damaged, it is an indication of loose
drive components. If damage to the compressor crankshaft is detected,
replace the compressor. When installing the drive gear or pulley, torque the
crankshaft nut to the appropriate torque specifications and use care when
pressing drive components on to the crankshaft.
Do not back off the crankshaft nut once it is tightened to the proper torque.
Do not use impact wrenches to install the crankshaft nut.
Excessively worn drive couplings or gears. Inspect drive gear, couplings, and engine for excessive wear. Replace as
necessary.
NOTE: Nonmetallic gears should be replaced when the compressor is
changed.
Compressor cylinder head or discharge Inspect the compressor discharge port and discharge line for carbon buildup.
line restrictions. If carbon is detected, check for proper compressor cooling. See the remedy
for insufficient compressor cooling in the previous table. Inspect the discharge
line for kinks and restrictions. Replace the discharge line as necessary.
Worn or burned out bearings. Check for proper oil pressure in the compressor. Minimum required oil
pressure is 15 psi when engine is idling and 15 psi maximum at governed
engine rpm. Check for excessive oil temperature; oil temperature should not
exceed 240°F (115°C).
Malfunctioning compressor. Repair or replace the compressor after making certain none of the preceding
conditions exist.
Problem—Excessive Buildup and Recovery Time

Problem—Excessive Buildup and Recovery Time *
Dirty induction air filter. Inspect engine or compressor air filter and replace if necesary.
Restricted induction line. Inspect the compressor air induction line for kinks and restrictions and replace
as necessary.
Restricted discharge line or compressor Inspect the compressor discharge port and line for restrictions and carbon
discharge cavity. buildup. If carbon buildup is found, check for proper compressor cooling.
Replace faulty sections of the discharge line.
Slipping drive components. Check for faulty drive gears and couplings and replace as necessary. Check
the condition of drive belts and replace or tighten, whichever is appropriate.
Excessive air system leakage. Test for excessive system leakage and repair as necessary. Use the following
as a guide. Build system pressure to governor cutout and allow the pressure
to stabilize for one minute. Using a test gauge, note the system pressure drop
after two minutes. The pressure should not exceed:
• 2 psi in each reservoir for a single vehicle;
• 6 psi in each reservoir for a tractor and trailer;
• 8 psi in each reservoir for a tractor and two trailers.
300/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 27, November 2002

Troubleshooting
Problem—Excessive Buildup and Recovery Time *

Sticking unloader pistons. Check the operation of the unloading mechanism. Check for proper operation
of the compressor air governor and synchro valve. Make certain the air
connections between the governor and synchro valve are correct. See Fig. 2.
If the governor and synchro valve are operating properly, replace the unloader
mechanism. Inspect for bent, linked, or blocked tubing leading to or from the
governor and synchro valve.
conditions exist.
* Compressor should be capable of building air system pressure from 85 to 100 psi in 40 seconds with engine at full governed rpm. Minimum compressor per-
formance is certified to meet Federal requirements by the vehicle manufacturer. Do not downsize the original compressor.
Problem—Compressor Does Not Unload

Malfunctioning governor and synchro Test the governor and synchro valve for proper operation and inspect air lines
valve. to and from both components for kinks or restrictions. Repair or replace the
governor, synchro valve, or connecting air lines.
Malfunctioning or worn unloader pistons or Inspect for worn, dirty, or corroded unloader pistons and their bores. Replace
bores. as necessary.
Problem—Compressor Leaks Oil

Damaged mounting gasket. Check the compressor mounting bolt torque. If the mounting bolt torque is low,
replace the compressor mounting gasket before retorqueing the mounting
bolts.
Cracked crankcase or end cover. Visually inspect the compressor exterior for cracked or broken components.
Cracked or broken crankcases or mounting flanges can be caused by loose
mounting bolts. The end cover can be cracked by overtorquing fittings or
plugs installed in the end cover. Repair or replace the compressor as
necessary.
Loose crankcase end cover or bottom Check the capscrew torques and tighten as necessary. Replace gaskets or
cover. O-rings.
Loose oil supply or return line fittings. Check the torque of external oil line fittings and tighten as necessary.
Porous compressor casting. Replace the compressor if porosity is found.
Mounting flange or end cover, O-ring or Replace as necessary.
gasket missing, cut, or damaged.
Problem—Compressor Constantly Cycles; Compressor Remains Unloaded for a Very Short Time
Leaking compressor unloader pistons. Repair or replace as necessary.

13.04 Air Compressor, Bendix DuraFlo 596
Troubleshooting
Malfunctioning governor and synchro Test the governor and synchro valve for proper operation and inspect air lines
valve. to and from both components for kinks or restrictions. Repair or replace the
governor, synchro valve, or connecting air lines.
to stabilize for one minute. Using a test gauge, note the system pressure drop
after two minutes. The pressure should not exceed:
• 2 psi in each reservoir for a single vehicle;
• 6 psi in each reservoir for a tractor and trailer;
• 8 psi in each reservoir for a tractor and two trailers.
Excessive reservoir contaminants. Drain reservoirs.
Problem—Compressor Leaks Coolant

Improperly installed plugs and coolant line Check torque of fittings and plugs and tighten as necessary. Overtorqued
fittings. fittings and plugs can crack the head or block casting.
Freeze cracks due to improper antifreeze Test antifreeze and strengthen as necessary. Check coolant flow through
strength. compressor to assure the proper antifreeze mixture reaches the compressor.
Malfunctioning compressor due to porous If casting porosity is detected, replace the compressor.
castings.
Problem—Compressor Head Gasket Malfunction

Restricted discharge line. Clear restriction or replace line.
Loose cylinder head capscrews. Tighten evenly to a torque of 265 to 292 lbf·in (2990 to 3300 N·cm).
Malfunctioning compressor or head Check for rough or poorly machined head or block surfaces. Replace
gasket. compressor as necessary.

Troubleshooting
4
1 5
06/11/2001 f130111
NOTE: The cylinder head connection ports are identified
with the following numbers:
• Atmospheric Air In: 0
• Compressed Air Out: 2
• Coolant In: 91
• Coolant Out: 92
1. Coolant In or Out (One of the two ports is plugged.)
2. Inlet Port
3. Discharge Port
4. Coolant In or Out
5. Discharge Safety Valve
Fig. 1, Cylinder Head Port Identification
2 3 C 4
D
S S D
C
D
S
06/08/2001 1 f130110
1. DuraFlo 596 Compressor
2. Air Dryer
3. Synchro Valve
4. Governor
5. Supply Reservoir
Fig. 2, Plumbing Diagram

Specifications
DuraFlo 596 Specifications • Maximum discharge air temperature: 400°F

• Flow capacity at 1800 rpm and 120 psi: 21.4 (204°C)
cfm • Minimum oil pressure required at engine idle
• Operation: naturally aspirated speed: 15 psi
• Horsepower required at 1800 rpm and 120 psi: • Minimum oil pressure required at maximum
loaded 7.6, unloaded 1.1 governed engine speed: 15 psi
• Swept air displacement at 1250 rpm: 27 cfm • Number of cylinders: 2
• Maximum recommended rpm: 3000 • Weight: 50 pounds (23 kilograms)
• Minimum governor cutout pressure: 130 psi • Length: 10.9 inches (28 centimeters)
• Maximum inlet air temperature: 250°F (121°C) • Height: 13.3 inches (34 centimeters)
• Maximum inlet restriction: 25 inH 2O • Width: 5.5 inches (14 centimeters)

Description Torque: lbf·in (N·cm)
13 mm Cylinder Head Capscrews 265 to 292 (2990 to 3300)
10 mm Valve Capscrews 101 to 111 (1140 to 1250)
Rear End Cover Capscrews 195 to 212 (2200 to 2400)
Bottom Cover Capscrews 97 to 115 (1100 to 1300)
Crankshaft Nut 148 to 184 lbf·ft (200 to 250 N·m)

Air Compressor, Bendix BA-921 13.05
General Information
General Information 5 6 7
4 8
The BA-921 air compressor is a single-cylinder recip-
rocating compressor with a rated displacement of
3 9
15.8 cubic feet per minute at 1250 rpm. The com-
pressor consists of a water-cooled cylinder head and
valve plate assembly and an air-cooled integral 2
crankcase and cylinder block. See Fig. 1. The cylin-
der head is an aluminum casting that contains the
required air and water ports as well as an unloader 1
piston. The valve plate assembly consists of lami-
nated and brazed steel plates that incorporate vari-
ous valve openings and channels for conducting air
and engine coolant in to and out of the cylinder
head.
The discharge valves are part of the valve plate as-
sembly. The cylinder head, with the valve plate, com-
prise a complete cylinder head assembly. The cast
iron crankcase and cylinder block assembly, houses
the piston, connecting rod, crankshaft, and related 11 10
bearings. 07/17/2002 f130118
The BA-921 crankcase cover is stamped with infor- 1. Crankcase
mation identifying the compressor model, customer 2. Valve Plate Assembly
piece number, Bendix piece number, and serial num- 3. Cylinder Head
ber. See Fig. 2. 4. Air Inlet Port
5. Unloader Cover
6. Water Port
Operation 7. Governor Connection
8. Discharge Port
The compressor is driven by the vehicle engine and 9. Water Port
functions continuously while the engine is in opera- 10. Crankcase Cover
tion. Actual compression of air is controlled by the 11. Oil Port
compressor unloading mechanism operating in con- Fig. 1, BA-921 Air Compressor
junction with a governor.
BA−921
Cust P/N: XXXXXXX
Bendix P/N: 5XXXXXX
Serial Number: XXXXXX
07/15/2002 f130119
Fig. 2, BA-921 Crankcase Cover

Air Compressor Replacement
Replacement 15. Fill the engine cooling system. For instructions,

see Group 20.
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, shut 16. Turn on the engine and check for leaks.
down the engine, and open the hood or tilt the
cab. 17. Remove the chocks from the tires and lower the
hood or tilt the cab.
2. Drain the air system.
WARNING
clean or dry parts, as permanent eye injury could
result from flying debris.
grease from the outside of the air compressor.
Then dry the compressor with compressed air.
4. Drain the radiator coolant. For instructions, see
Group 20.
5. Identify and disconnect all air, water, and oil lines
attached to the air compressor.
6. Remove the air governor and the air governor
mounting gasket.
7. Remove any components attached to the air
compressor, such as a fuel pump or power steer-
ing pump.
8. Support the air compressor and remove the cap-
screws that attach the compressor to the gear
case. Remove the air compressor.
9. Discard all gaskets.
IMPORTANT: Be sure the new gaskets are
clean and not damaged.
10. Install a new air compressor gasket on the com-
pressor.
11. Using capscrews, attach the air compressor to
the gear case. For torque specifications, see the
engine manufacturer’s service manual.
12. Install any components that were removed from
the air compressor, such as a fuel pump or
power steering pump.
13. Install a new gasket on the air governor. Then
install the air governor on the engine.
14. Identify and connect the air, coolant, and oil lines
to the air compressor.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Excessive Oil Passage*
Restricted air intake. Check engine air cleaner and replace if necessary. Check compressor air inlet
for kinks and excessive bends, and be certain inlet lines have the minimum
specified inside diameter. Recommended maximum air inlet restriction is 25
inches of water.
Restricted oil return to engine. Oil return to the engine should not be in any way restricted. Make certain oil
drain passages in the compressor and mating engine surfaces are
unobstructed and aligned. Correct gaskets must be used. Special care must
be taken when sealants are used with, or instead of, gaskets.
Poorly filtered air inlet. Check for a damaged or dirty air filter on the engine or compressor. Check for
leaking or damaged compressor air intake components such as induction line,
fittings, gaskets, and filter bodies. The compressor intake should not be
connected to any part of the exhaust gas recirculation (E.G.R.) system on the
engine.
Insufficient compressor cooling For air-cooled portions of the compressor:
(compressor runs hot).
• Remove accumulated grease and dirt from the cooling fins. Replace
damaged components.
• Check for damaged cooling fins. Replace compressor if damaged.
For water-cooled portions of the compressor:
• Check for proper coolant line sizes. Minimum recommended line i.d. is
3/8 inch (10 mm).
• Check the coolant flow through the compressor. Minimum allowable
flow is 2.5 gallons (9 L) per minute at engine governed speed. If low
coolant flow is detected, inspect the coolant lines and fittings for accu-
mulated rust scale, kinks, and restrictions.
• Water temperature should not exceed 200°F (93°C).
• Optimum cooling is achieved when engine coolant flows as shown in
Fig. 1.
Contaminants not being regularly drained Check reservoir drain valves to insure that they are functioning properly. It is
from system reservoirs. recommended that the vehicle be equipped with functioning automatic drain
valves or have all reservoirs drained to zero psi daily, or optimally, to be
equipped with a desiccant-type air dryer prior to the reservoir system.
Compressor runs loaded an excessive Vehicle system leakage should not exceed 1 psi (7 kPa) pressure drop per
amount of time. minute without brakes applied and 3 psi (21 kPa) pressure drop per minute
with brakes applied. If leakage is excessive, check for system leaks and repair
any leaks.
Excessive engine crankcase pressure. Test for excessive engine crankcase pressure and repair or replace ventilation
NOTE: An indication of crankcase pressure is a loose or partially lifted dip-
stick.

13.05 Air Compressor, Bendix BA-921
Troubleshooting
Problem—Excessive Oil Passage*

Excessive engine oil pressure. Check the engine oil pressure with a test gauge and compare the reading to
the engine specifications. Bendix does not recommend restricting the
compressor oil supply line because of the possibility of plugging the restriction
with oil contaminants. Minimum oil supply line size is 3/16-inch (5-mm) i.d.
tubing.
Malfunctioning compressor. Replace or repair the compressor only after making certain none of the
preceding conditions exist.
* Compressor passes excessive oil as evidenced by presence of oil at the exhaust ports of valving.

Loose drive gear or components. Inspect the fit of the drive gear on the compressor crankshaft. The gear or
coupling must be completely seated and the crankshaft nut must be tight. If
the compressor crankshaft surface is damaged, it is an indication of loose
drive components. If damage to the compressor crankshaft is detected,
replace the compressor. When installing the drive gear or pulley, torque the
crankshaft nut to the appropriate torque specifications and use care when
pressing drive components on to the crankshaft.
Do not back off the crankshaft nut once it is tightened to the proper torque.
Do not use impact wrenches to install the crankshaft nut.
Excessively worn drive couplings or gears. Inspect drive gear, couplings, and engine for excessive wear. Replace as
necessary.
NOTE: Nonmetallic gears should be replaced when the compressor is
changed.
Compressor cylinder head or discharge Inspect the compressor discharge port and discharge line for carbon buildup.
line restrictions. If carbon is detected, check for proper cooling to the compressor. See the
remedy for insufficient compressor cooling in the table titled Problem—
Excessive Oil Passage. Inspect the discharge line for kinks and restrictions.
Replace the discharge line as necessary.
Worn or burned out bearings. Check for proper oil pressure in the compressor. Minimum required oil
pressure is 15 psi (103 kPa) when engine is idling and 15 psi (103 kPa)
maximum at governed engine rpm. Check for excessive oil temperature; oil
temperature should not exceed 240°F (115°C).
conditions exist.
Problem—Excessive Buildup and Recover Time

Problem—Excessive Buildup and Recover Time*
Dirty induction air filter. Inspect engine or compressor air filter and replace if necessary.
Restricted induction line. Inspect the compressor air induction line for kinks and restrictions and replace
as necessary.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Excessive Buildup and Recover Time*

Restricted discharge line or compressor Inspect the compressor discharge port and line for restrictions and carbon
discharge cavity. buildup. If carbon buildup is found, check for proper compressor cooling.
Replace faulty sections of the discharge line.
Slipping drive components. Check for faulty drive gears and couplings and replace as necessary. Check
the condition of drive belts and replace or tighten, whichever is appropriate.
to stabilize for one minute. Using a test gauge, note the system pressure and
the pressure drop after two minutes. The pressure drops should not exceed:
• 2 psi (14 kPa) in each reservoir for a single vehicle;
• 6 psi (41 kPa) in each reservoir for a tractor and trailer;
• 8 psi (55 kPa) in each reservoir for a tractor and two trailers.
Sticking unloader pistons. Check the operation of the unloading mechanism. Check for proper operation
of the compressor air governor. Make certain the air connections between the
governor and compressor are correct. See Fig. 2. If the governor is operating
properly, replace the unloader mechanism. Inspect for bent, kinked, or blocked
tubing leading to or from the governor.
Malfunctioning compressor. Repair or replace the compressor after determining none of the preceding
conditions exist.
* Compressor should be capable of building air system pressure from 85 to 100 psi (586 to 689 kPa) in 40 seconds with engine at full governed rpm. Minimum
compressor performance is certified to meet Federal requirements by the vehicle manufacturer. Do not downsize the original equipment compressor.

Malfunctioning governor or installation. Test the governor for proper operation and inspect air lines to and from it for
kinks or restrictions. Repair or replace the governor or connecting air lines.
Malfunctioning or worn unloader pistons or Inspect for worn, dirty, or corroded unloader piston and bore. Replace as
bores. necessary.

Damaged mounting gasket. Check the compressor mounting capscrew torque. If the mounting capscrew
torque is low, replace the compressor mounting gasket before retorquing the
mounting capscrews.
Cracked crankcase or end cover. Inspect the compressor exterior for cracked or broken components. Cracked
or broken crankcases or mounting flanges can be caused by loose mounting
bolts. The end cover can be cracked by overtorquing fittings or plugs installed
in the end cover. Repair or replace the compressor as necessary.
Loose crankcase end cover or bottom Check the capscrew torques and tighten as necessary. Replace gaskets or
cover. O-ring.
Loose oil supply or return line fittings. Check the torque of external oil line fittings and tighten as necessary.

13.05 Air Compressor, Bendix BA-921
Troubleshooting

Porous compressor casting. Replace the compressor if porosity is found.
Mounting flange or end cover, O-ring or Replace as necessary.
gasket missing, cut, or damaged.
Leaking compressor unloader pistons. Repair or replace as necessary. Remove the compressor inlet air strainer or
fitting. With the compressor unloaded (not compressing air), listen for air
escaping.
Malfunctioning governor and installation. Test the governor for proper operation and inspect air lines for kinks or
restrictions. Repair or replace the governor or connecting air lines as required.
Excessive system leakage. Test for excessive system leakage and repair as necessary. Use the following
to stabilize for one minute. Using a test gauge, note the system pressure and
the pressure drop after two minutes. The pressure drops should not exceed:
• 2 psi (14 kPa) in each reservoir for a single vehicle;
• 6 psi (41 kPa) in each reservoir for a tractor and trailer;
• 8 psi (55 kPa) in each reservoir for a tractor and two trailers.
Excessive reservoir contaminants. Drain reservoirs.

Improperly installed plugs and coolant line Check torque of fittings and plugs and tighten as necessary. Overtorqued
fittings. fittings and plugs can crack the head or block casting.
Freeze cracks due to improper antifreeze Test antifreeze and strengthen as necessary. Check coolant flow through
strength. compressor to assure the proper antifreeze mixture reaches the compressor.
Malfunctioning compressor due to porous If casting porosity is detected, replace the compressor.
castings.

Restricted discharge line. Clear restriction or replace line.
Loose cylinder head capscrews. Tighten evenly to a torque of 265 to 292 lbf·in (2990 to 3300 N·cm).
Malfunctioning compressor or head Check for rough or poorly machined head or block surfaces. Replace
gasket. compressor as necessary.

Troubleshooting
A D
11/14/2002 f130121
NOTE: The cylinder head connection ports are identified
with the following numbers which are cast into the com-
pressor: 0–Air In; 2–Compressed Air Out; 9–Coolant In
or Out; 4–Governor Control.
A. Coolant In or Out (One of the two ports is plugged.)
B. Inlet Port
C. Coolant In or Out (One of the two ports is plugged.)
D. Discharge Safety Valve
Fig. 1, Cylinder Head Port Identification
4
3
1
07/15/2002 f130120
1. Compressor
2. Governor Unloader Port
3. Supply Reservoir
4. Governor
5. Reservoir Port

Specifications
BA-921 Specifications • Maximum inlet air temperature: 250°F (121°C)

• Flow capacity at 1800 rpm and 120 psi (827 • Maximum discharge air temperature: 400°F
kPa): 11.8 cfm (204°C)
• Flow capacity at 3000 rpm and 120 psi (827 • Minimum oil pressure required at engine idle
kPa): 16.5 cfm speed: 15 psi (103 kPa)
• Approximate horsepower required: • Minimum oil pressure required at maximum
governed engine speed: 15 psi (103 kPa)
• loaded 1800 rpm at 120 psig (827 kPa):
4.5 hp • Number of cylinders: 1
• unloaded 1800 rpm: 1.3 hp • Weight: 28 pounds (13 kilograms)
• Minimum governor cutout pressure: 130 psi
(896 kPa)

Torque
Description
lbf·in (N·cm)
Cylinder Head Capscrews 265 to 292 (2990 to 3300)
Unloader Cover Capscrew 62 to 71 (700 to 800)
Rear End Cover Capscrews 195 to 213 (2200 to 2400)
Governor Adapter 300 to 325 (3390 to 3672)
Crankcase Cover Capscrew 62 to 71 (700 to 800)
Crankshaft Nut 220 to 254 lbf·ft (298 to 344 N·m)

Air Compressor, WABCO 13.06
Removal
2. Drain the air tanks.
5
3. Open the hood. Clean the fittings and hose con-
nections on the air compressor and power steer-
ing pump.
2 4
4. Drain the radiator coolant. For instructions, see 3
Group 20. 1
IMPORTANT: Do not remove the power steering

lines. Secure the lines and the pump so that
they are out of the way.
5. Remove the two capscrews that attach the
power steering pump to the air compressor and
move the pump away from the compressor. See 02/06/2002 6 f130105
Fig. 1.
1. Capscrew 4. Cross Plate
NOTE: Depending on vehicle configuration, it 2. Power Steering 5. Air Compressor
may be necessary to remove the brackets that Pump 6. Hydraulic Lines
attach the transmission cooler lines to the en- 3. O-Ring
gine in order to obtain enough room to remove
Fig. 1, Power Steering Pump Removal
the compressor.
6. Remove and discard the O-ring located between
the power steering pump and the cross plate. 4
7. Remove the cross plate located between the air
compressor and the power steering pump. 5
8. Remove the three air lines from the air compres- 3

sor (see Fig. 2), as follows. 6
8.1 Remove the discharge air line and the
elbow fitting. Check inside the discharge
air line for carbon deposits and replace if
necessary.
8.2 Remove the unloader air line. Check the
2
fittings for damage and replace if neces-
sary.
1
8.3 Loosen the hose clamp and remove the
intake air line.
9. Remove all air fittings from the top of the com- 03/02/2005 f130108a
pressor.
1. Discharge Air Line 4. Intake Air Line
10. Remove the engine trim cover. 2. Elbow Fitting 5. Unloader Air Line
3. Air Compressor 6. O-Ring
11. Remove the coolant delivery and return lines.
Discard the seal rings. See Fig. 3. Fig. 2, Air Compressor Air Lines
12. Remove the four capscrews that attach the air
compressor to the engine and remove the com-
pressor. See Fig. 4.

13.06 Air Compressor, WABCO
2 4 5
4 3
2
3 2
2
1
03/02/2005 f130107a
2
1 1. Outboard Lower Capscrew
2. Inboard Lower Capscrew
3. Inboard Upper Capscrew
5 4. Air Compressor
5. Outboard Upper Capscrew
03/02/2005 f130104a
Fig. 4, Air Compressor Removal
1. Hollow-Core Banjo 4. Coolant Delivery
Capscrew Line 2.3 Remove the drive gear from the air com-
2. Seal Ring 5. Air Compressor pressor, using a gear puller if necessary.
3. Coolant Return Line
2.4 Discard the O-ring that seals the compres-
Fig. 3, Air Compressor Coolant Lines sor housing to the engine block.
3. Inspect the drive gear for worn or broken teeth,
NOTE: The capscrews that attach the air com- spalling, and corrosion. If necessary, replace the
pressor to the engine are different lengths. Be drive gear.
sure to note where each capscrew is located.
4. Install a new O-ring on the air compressor hous-
13. Slide the drive gear away from the flywheel. ing. Install the drive gear. Tighten the drive nut
Catch any oil that runs out and dispose of it 214 lbf·ft (290 N·m). See Fig. 5.
properly.
Inspection
1. Install an SPX Kent-Moore locking device (J 3
46177) on the air compressor where the power 2
steering pump connects to the air compressor.
Tighten the capscrews until the air compressor 1
drive is locked. This device locks the driveshaft
to allow removal of the drive nut. 4
2. Remove the drive gear from the air compressor,
as follows.
01/22/2001 f130106
2.1 Place the air compressor and locking de-
vice in a vise. Make sure the locking de- 1. Air Compressor 3. Drive Gear
vice is tightly secured and cannot slip out 2. O-Ring 4. Drive Nut
of the vise.
Fig. 5, Air Compressor Drive Gear Installation
2.2 Using an impact wrench, remove the drive
nut from the drive gear.

Installation
1. Using four capscrews, attach the air compressor
to the engine. Tighten the capscrews 44 lbf·ft (60
N·m).
NOTE: Be sure to use the correct capscrew at
each mounting location.
2. Install new seal rings on the coolant lines, then
install the coolant lines on the air compressor.
Tighten the hollow-core banjo capscrews 22 lbf·ft
(30 N·m).
3. Install the engine trim cover.
4. Install the air fittings on top of the air compres-
sor.
5. Install the three air lines on the air compressor,
as follows.
5.1 Install the discharge and unloader air
lines. Make sure the O-rings are correctly
installed on the fittings.
5.2 Tighten the discharge and unloader air
line fittings 60 lbf·ft (80 N·m).
5.3 Install the intake air line and tighten the
hose clamp.
6. Install the cross plate on the compressor output
drive. Use grease to hold it in place while install-
ing the power steering pump.
7. Install a new O-ring between the power steering
pump and the cross plate.
8. Using two capscrews, attach the power steering
pump to the air compressor. Tighten the cap-
9. If the brackets that attach the transmission cooler
lines to the engine were removed, install the
brackets.
10. Fill the cooling system. For instructions, see
Group 20.
11. Turn on the engine and check air line and cool-
ant fittings for leaks. Correct any leaks as neces-
sary.

Specifications
Special tools can be ordered from:

SPX Kent-Moore
28635 Mount Road
Warren, Michigan 48092-3499
1-800-328-6657
SPX Kent-Moore Tools

Tool Part Number
Air Compressor Locking Device J-46177
Table 1, SPX Kent-Moore Tools
Torque Values
Torque:
Description
lbf·ft (N·m)
Air Compressor Capscrews 44 (60)
Air Line Fittings 60 (80)
Coolant Line Hollow-Core Banjo Bolts 22 (30)
Drive Nut 214 (290)
Power Steering Pump Mounting
30 (40)
Capscrews

Starters, Delco Remy 15.00
General Information
1
The Delco Remy starter (see Fig. 1) is located at the
forward face of the flywheel bell housing on the driv- 6
er’s side of the vehicle.
6
1
2 A
5 4
10/31/94 f150401a
3 A. Connect to ground (may be direct ground, as
shown or through starter temperature switch,
ADLO relay, oil pressure switch, fuel pressure
switch, or other control unit).
1. Solenoid 5. Battery
5 2. Start Switch 6. Ground Return
3. Magnetic Switch Terminals
4 4. Starting Motor
08/06/99 f150114a
Fig. 2, Starter Wiring Circuit
1. Solenoid 4. Field Frame
2. Lever Housing 5. End Cap When the start switch is closed, the magnetic switch
3. Nose Housing contacts close, and the solenoid windings are con-
Fig. 1, Starter Motor and Solenoid Assembly (42-MT nected to the battery. The resulting plunger and shift
starter shown) lever movement causes the pinion to engage the en-
gine flywheel ring gear and the solenoid main con-
The starter has a shift lever and solenoid plunger tacts to close, and cranking takes place. When the
that is totally enclosed to protect it from exposure to engine starts, pinion overrun protects the armature
dirt, icing conditions, and splash. The starter is from excessive speed until the switch is opened, at
equipped with a drive, solenoid, and brush rigging which time the return spring causes the pinion to dis-
with one-piece brushes. The commutator end cap engage.
can be removed to inspect the brushes.
To prevent overrun and damage to the drive and ar-
Lubrication is provided in the sintered bronze bush- mature windings, the switch must be opened immedi-
ings by an oil saturated wick. Oil can be added to ately when the engine starts. A cranking period
each wick by removing an oil reservoir cup, which is should never exceed 30 seconds without stopping to
accessible on the outside of the motor. allow the motor to cool for at least two minutes.
The pinion is moved into mesh with the ring gear by The 30-second limit also applies to motors equipped
the action of the solenoid. The pinion remains en- with an optional thermostat. If overcranking should
gaged until the solenoid circuit is interrupted. In case occur, the thermostat will open and the cranking
of a butt engagement, the motor is not energized, cycle will stop to protect the motor. After the motor
preventing damage to the pinion and gear teeth. cools, usually in 1 to 6 minutes, the thermostat will
Under normal operating conditions, no maintenance close and then a new start attempt can be made.
will be required between engine overhaul periods. At
the time of engine overhaul, disassemble, inspect,
and test the starter as described in this section.
For the complete starting circuit wiring diagram, see
Section 54.00, Specifications, 400. The basic start-
ing circuit is shown in Fig. 2.

Removal
Before removing the starter from the vehicle for re-
pair, perform "Preliminary Checks," in Section 300.
1. Turn off all electrical loads such as lights, igni-
tion, and accessories.
WARNING
WARNING: Batteries release a gas mixture which
is explosive if exposed to intense heat such as a
cigarette or open flame. The acid is also ex-
tremely harmful if splashed in the eyes or on the
skin. A load on the battery may cause arcing be-
tween the battery terminal and the cable end
when the cable is being removed or connected.
Therefore, allow sufficient venting of the battery
box before removing or connecting the battery
cables.Extinguish all flames, and remove any
sources of intense heat in the area of the batter-
ies. Wear safety glasses when working around
batteries. Review the battery safety precautions
located in the electrical section in this manual.
2. Disconnect the batteries. Fig. 1
3. Tilt the hood or cab. Remove the throttle return 6. Read the warning listed under "Removal." Then
spring. connect the battery cable to the batteries.
4. Disconnect the wires attached to the starter.
Mark the wires for later assembly reference.
5. Remove the bolts and lockwashers ( Fig. 1) that
attach the starter to the engine. Remove the
starter.
Installation
1. Insert the starter nose housing through the
mounting hole in the flywheel housing.
2. Install the three starter mounting bolts and lock-
washers. Refer to fastener and torque values
table in Subject 400.
3. Connect the wires to the starter as previously
marked. Tighten the nuts 16 to 30 lbf·in (180 to
340 N·cm ).
4. Install the throttle return spring and return the
hood or cab to the operating position.
5. Turn off all electrical loads such as lights, ignition
switches, and accessories.

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Table
Problem—Starter Cranks Slowly Or Not At All
Problem—Starter Cranks Slowly Or Not
At All
Check the drive belt. See the drive belt subject in the appropriate engine
section in Section 01.07 for instructions. If necessary, tighten to the
manufacturer’s specifications.
The drive belt is loose.
Start the engine and check the alternator voltage and output. See the
troubleshooting subject in the appropriate alternator section in Group 15 for
instructions.
Check the drive pulleys for locked bearings. Repair or replace any damaged
components. Replace the drive belt and start the engine.
The drive belt is damaged or missing.
Check the alternator voltage and output. See the troubleshooting subject in
the appropriate alternator section in Group 15 for instructions.
Do a load test on the batteries. See Section 54.02, Subject 140 for
instructions. Charge or replace batteries as needed.
The batteries are undercharged. If the batteries were discharged, check the alternator voltage and output. See
the troubleshooting subject in the appropriate alternator section in Group 15
for instructions.
The battery cables do not deliver sufficient Check the available cranking voltage. Go to "Available Cranking Voltage Test"
voltage to the starter. for instructions.
Check the starter solenoid circuit. Go to "Starter Solenoid Circuit Test" for
The starter solenoid circuit is broken.
instructions. Make repairs as needed. Start the engine to verify the repair.
Check the starter wiring. Go to "Starter Wiring Test" for instructions. Make
The control circuit is broken.
repairs as needed. Start the engine to verify the repair.
Replace the magnetic switch. Go to Section 54.04, Subject 100 for
The magnetic switch is broken.
replacement instructions.
The starter does not stay engaged. Go to "Cold Weather Starting Test" for instructions.
The starter ring gear or pinion gear is Visually check the ring and pinion gears. Go to "Ring and Pinion Gear Test"
damaged. for instructions.
The starter is damaged. Replace the starter.
There is a mechanical problem in the
See Group 01 or the engine manufacturer’s manuals.
engine.
Troubleshooting Chart Available Cranking Voltage

Problem—Starter Spins, But Does Not Crank
Test
For troubleshooting instructions, see Fig. 1. BATTERY CABLE TEST
Problem—Starter Makes Clicking Noise, But Does 1. Connect the positive lead of a carbon pile tester
Not Crank (Or Cranks Intermittently) to the starter solenoid "B" terminal. Connect the
For troubleshooting instructions, see Fig. 1. negative lead of the carbon pile to the starter "G"
(ground) terminal. See Fig. 2.

15.00 Starters, Delco Remy
Troubleshooting
Connect voltmeter
More than 6.0 V from solenoid "S" 6.0 V or less
terminal to ground.
Engage start switch.
Symptoms continue
Remove starter. Check & repair
Visually check pinion. Milled pinion magnetic switch
circuit.
OK
OK
Repair or replace starter.
(Do not install)
Repair verified.
Milled teeth
Visually check ring gear.
OK
Replace ring gear and check
flange to flywheel dimension.
Reinstall starter and

perform "Cranking
Circuit Test." Defective
Replace starter and verify repair.
02/18/97 f040314
Fig. 1, Troubleshooting Chart: Milled Pinion Symptoms

IMPORTANT: Connect the voltmeter to the IMPORTANT: Connect the voltmeter to the
starter "B" terminal, not to the carbon pile starter "G" terminal, not to the carbon pile
clamp. clamp.
2. Set a digital voltmeter on the low scale (2V, 3V, 5. Turn on the carbon pile again and adjust it to a
or 4V, depending on type of meter) and connect 500-amp load, as before. Read and record the
the positive lead to the battery positive (+) termi- voltage (V2) on the voltmeter. Turn off the carbon
nal. Connect the negative lead to the starter "B" pile.
(battery) terminal.
NOTE: Ignore the minus (–) sign.
3. Turn on the carbon pile and adjust it to a 500-
amp load. Read and record the voltage (V1) on 6. Add the positive (V1) and the negative (V2) volt-
the voltmeter. Turn off the carbon pile. age loss readings together. If the total voltage
loss is 0.500 volts or less, the battery cables are
4. Now connect the digital voltmeter (still set on the OK.
low scale) to the battery negative (–) terminal
and the starter "G" (ground) terminal. Add the positive (V1) and the negative (V2) volt-
age loss readings together. If the total voltage

Troubleshooting
2.3 If any cable or connection feels warm to

the touch, check and replace the inter-
4 connecting cables as required.
3
3. If the starter still does not crank, go to "Ring and
2
Pinion Gear Test."
B
1
S Starter Solenoid Circuit Test
G The starter solenoid circuit includes the starter sole-
noid, cranking motor, magnetic switch, and ignition
5 keyswitch. It is part of the cranking circuit. For crank-
ing circuit wiring, see Section 54.00, Specifica-
6 tions, 400.
If there is excessive voltage loss in the starter sole-
noid circuit, the starter may not engage the flywheel
at all, or it may drop out too soon when battery volt-
09/10/96 f150600 age goes down. Do the following test to check for
1. Voltmeter (recording V2, negative side voltage excessive voltage loss in the starter solenoid circuit.
loss)
2. Cranking Motor 1. Disconnect, at the solenoid, the lead from the
3. Voltmeter (recording V1, positive side voltage loss) magnetic switch to the "S" terminal on the starter
4. Battery solenoid.
5. Carbon Pile
6. Starter Solenoid
2. Use a small clamp or 8-gauge jumper wire to
connect this lead to the positive lead of a carbon
Fig. 2, Battery Cable Test pile tester. Connect the negative lead of the car-
bon pile to the starter "G" (ground) terminal. See
loss is more than 0.500 volts, repair or replace Fig. 3.
as necessary.
3. Set a digital voltmeter on the high (20V) scale
7. Disconnect the carbon pile and the voltmeter. and connect the positive lead to the starter "B"
Reconnect the magnetic switch to the starter "S" (battery) terminal. Connect the negative lead to
terminal. the magnetic switch terminal to which the carbon
pile is already connected.
INTERCONNECTING CABLE TEST
4. Read and record (as V3) the battery voltage
1. This test requires two persons. While the first shown on the meter, about 12.6V.
person cranks the engine, the second person
uses a voltmeter to measure the voltage across NOTE: This step requires two persons.
the starter solenoid "B" (battery) and "G" 5. Have one person turn the ignition keyswitch to
(ground) terminals. the START position and then push the start but-
2. If the voltage is 9.0 volts or less while cranking ton, while the other person listens for the clicking
(18.0 volts on a 24V system), check the battery sound of the magnetic switch closing. Read the
interconnecting cables. voltage on the voltmeter. It should read very low
voltage, less than 0.1V.
2.1 While cranking, measure the voltage
across each battery. IMPORTANT: If the magnetic switch does not
close, do the "Magnetic Switch Circuit Test." For
2.2 If the difference between any two batter-
instructions, see Section 54.04.
ies in the same battery box is more than
0.5 volt, check and replace the intercon- 6. Check the starter solenoid circuit voltage loss.
necting cables as required.

Troubleshooting
2. Connect this lead to the positive lead of a carbon

pile tester. Connect the negative lead of the car-
2 bon pile to the starter "G" (ground) terminal
(leave as in "Starter Solenoid Circuit Test").
3. Set a digital voltmeter on the low scale and con-
nect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the
1 starter solenoid "B" (battery) terminal. Connect
the negative lead of the voltmeter to the large
terminal of the magnetic switch that is connected
3
to the starter "B" terminal (circuit 82). See Fig. 4.
5
If any voltage shows, reconnect to the other
4
large terminal.
6
B
1
S
G
2
3
B
4
7
09/04/96 f150566
S
1. Ignition Keyswitch 5. Digital Voltmeter
2. Start Button 6. Starter Solenoid
5
3. Magnetic Switch 7. Cranking Motor
4. Carbon Pile
Fig. 3, Starter Solenoid Circuit Test G
6.1 Turn the ignition keyswitch to the START

position and push the start button; then
turn on the carbon pile and adjust it to a 08/27/96 f150547
100-amp load. 1. Digital Voltmeter 4. Starter Solenoid
2. Magnetic Switch 5. Cranking Motor
6.2 Now read and record (as V4) the voltage 3. Carbon Pile
on the voltmeter. Turn off the carbon pile.
Fig. 4, Starter Wiring Test—First Wire Voltage Loss
6.3 If the voltage drop (V4–V3) is 1.0V or (V5)
less, the starter solenoid circuit is OK. Do
the "Magnetic Switch Circuit Test." For NOTE: If desired, do a continuity check on the
instructions, see Section 54.04. circuit to be sure that it is connected to the cor-
If the voltage drop (V4–V3) is more than rect terminal. Low resistance indicates that the
1.0V, the voltage loss is excessive. Go to connections are correct.
"Starter Wiring Test."
4. Have a second person push and hold in the start
button momentarily.
Starter Wiring Test IMPORTANT: If the magnetic switch does not
1. Disconnect the lead from the magnetic switch to close, do the "Magnetic Switch Circuit Test." For
the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid (leave as instructions, see Section 54.04.
in "Starter Solenoid Circuit Test"). 5. Check the first wire voltage loss (V5).

Troubleshooting
5.1 Turn the ignition keyswitch to the START 8.2 Now read and record the voltage (V6) on
position and push the start button; then the voltmeter. Turn off the carbon pile.
turn on the carbon pile and adjust it to a
8.3 Add the two voltages (V5 and V6) to-
100-amp load.
gether to get the total wire voltage loss. If
5.2 Now read and record the voltage (V5) on the total wire voltage loss adds up to 0.8
the voltmeter. Turn off the carbon pile. volts or less, the wiring is OK. Replace
the magnetic switch. For instructions, see
6. Now connect the positive lead of the digital volt- Section 54.04, Subject 100.
meter (still set on the low scale) to the magnetic
switch lead which is already connected to the If the total wire voltage loss adds up to
carbon pile (as in "Starter Solenoid Circuit Test"). more than 0.8 volts, check the wire con-
Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the nections for tightness and the terminals
other large terminal on the magnetic switch (cir- for corrosion. Repair or replace as neces-
cuit 74). See Fig. 5. sary.
9. Disconnect the carbon pile and the voltmeter.
Reconnect the magnetic switch to the starter "S"
terminal.
10. Check all wiring and connections and repair or
1 replace as needed. For instructions on wire re-
pair, see Section 54.00.
3 2
B
4 Magnetic Switch Circuit Test
S For the "Magnetic Switch Circuit Test," see Sec-
tion 54.04.
5
Ring and Pinion Gear Test
G
1. This test requires two persons. While the first
person bars the engine over, the second person
visually checks the entire ring gear and pinion
08/27/96 f150548 gear visually (check all the teeth in both gears).
1. Magnetic Switch 4. Starter Solenoid 2. If the pinion teeth are damaged, replace the
2. Carbon Pile 5. Cranking Motor starter. If the ring gear teeth are damaged, re-
3. Digital Voltmeter
place the ring gear.
Fig. 5, Starter Wiring Test—Second Wire Voltage Loss NOTE: For ring gear replacement procedures,
(V6)
see the engine manufacturer’s manuals.
7. Have a second person start the engine momen-
3. If the engine still does not crank properly after
tarily.
replacing the starter, look for a mechanical prob-
8. Check the second wire voltage loss (V6). lem in the engine. For instructions, see
Group 01 or the engine manufacturer’s manuals.
NOTE: Ignore the minus (–) sign.
8.1 Turn the ignition keyswitch to the START Cold Weather Voltage Test
position and push the start button; then
turn on the carbon pile and again adjust it In cold weather, the starter may fail to engage, even
to a 100-amp load. though it performed well at higher temperatures. Do
the following test to check for cold weather voltage
loss in the cranking circuit.

Troubleshooting
1. With the ignition keyswitch on, clamp a heavy

battery jumper cable between the two large studs
on the magnetic switch. Remove the jumper im-
mediately to stop the engine from cranking.
2. If the engine starts with the jumper in place, do
the "Starter Wiring Test." Repair/replace the wir-
ing connections, terminals, and/or magnetic
switch as necessary.
3. If the engine now starts properly, check the
starter mounting bolts for tightness and do the
"Alternator Wiring Test." See the troubleshooting
subject in the appropriate alternator section in
Group 15 for instructions.
4. If the engine still does not start properly, go to
"Available Cranking Voltage Test."

Specifications

Torque
Description Size
Nose Housing Bolts 5/16–18 13–17 (18–23) —
Frame Capscrews (Grade 8) 1/4–28 — 144–192 (1620–2160)
Solenoid Mounting Bolts (Grade 8) 1/4–20 — 150–200 (1700–2260)
Copper Terminals 1/2–13 20–25 (27–34) —
Solenoid Side Terminals 10–32 — 16–30 (180–340)
Brush Screw 8–32 — 18–24 (200–280)
Frame Plug 1-3/8–18 — 48–72 (540–820)
Starter–Motor to Flywheel–Housing Bolts
Detroit Diesel (Steel Housing) 5/8–16 137–147 (186–199) —
Detroit Diesel (Aluminum Housing) 5/8–16 85–95 (115–129) —
Caterpillar (Steel or Aluminum Housing) 5/8–16 130–170 (176–230) —
Cummins (Steel or Aluminum Housing) 5/8–16 130–170 (176–230) —

Alternators, Delco Remy 25–SI and 26–SI Series 15.01
General Information
General Description
The Delco Remy 25–SI series alternator (see Fig. 1) 1
is a self-rectifying, brushless unit featuring a built-in
voltage regulator. The only moving part in the assem- 5
bly is the rotor, which is mounted on a ball bearing at 2
the drive end, and a roller bearing at the rectifier
end. The field winding, stator windings, six rectifying
diodes, and the regulator circuit components are all
stationary. The regulator and diodes are enclosed in
a sealed compartment.
3
2
1
04/04/96 f150564
1. Voltage Regulator
2. Output (BAT) Terminal
3. Sensing Lead
3 4. Diode Trio/Capacitor
5. Relay (R) Terminal
04/03/96 f150562
1. Output (BAT) Terminal Fig. 2, 26-SI Alternator Components (view from
2. Adjusting Lug rectifier end)
3. Mounting Lug
see Fig. 3. For 25–SI internal components (side and
Fig. 1, 25/26-SI Alternator rear view), see Fig. 4.
The 26–SI alternator is an improved version of the Only one wire connects the alternator to the battery,
25–SI. The integrated-circuit regulator is designed for along with a ground return. The specially designed
low-speed start-up. See Fig. 2. A special diode trio/ output terminal is connected directly to the battery.
capacitor assembly provides superior radio frequency Since the vehicle’s electrical system is negative
interference (RFI) suppression. ground, the output terminal connects to the battery’s
positive terminal. A relay terminal labeled "R" is avail-
The electronic parts of the 26–SI are protected in two able for use in some circuits to operate auxiliary
ways. Standard load dump protection guards against equipment. The hex-head bolt on the output terminal
voltage spikes caused by loose connections or inter- is electrically insulated; no voltage reading can be
ruptions in the charging line. Total environmental obtained by connecting to the hex-head bolt.
sealing physically protects against dirt, road salt, and
other corrosive materials.
On both 26–SI and 25–SI alternators, a fan located
on the drive end provides airflow for cooling. Extra- As the rotor begins to turn, the permanent magne-
large grease reservoirs contain an adequate supply tism within induces voltages in the stator windings.
of lubricant so that no periodic maintenance is re- The voltages across the six diodes cause current to
quired. For 26–SI internal components (side view), flow, charging the battery. See Fig. 5.

15.01 Alternators, Delco Remy 25–SI and 26–SI Series
General Information
The resistor R7, capacitor C3, and resistor R4 all

2 3 cause transistors TR2 and TR1 to turn on and off
4 quickly.
1 6
04/05/96 f150565
1. Rectifiers 4. Field Coil

2. Voltage Regulator 5. Ball Bearing
3. Grease Reservoir 6. Roller Bearing
Fig. 3, 26-SI Alternator Components (side view)

Current from the stator flows through the three di-
odes to resistor R6 and the base-emitter of TR2 and
TR1, to turn on these transistors. Current also flows
from the stator through the diode trio (D1, D2, and
D3), the field coil and transistor TR1, returning to the
stator through the other three diodes. All stator cur-
rent, except through the diode trio (D1, D2, and D3)
flows through the six diodes connected to the stator.
Current flow through R1, R2, and R3 causes voltage
to appear at the zener diode D4. When the voltage
becomes high enough due to increasing alternator
speed, D4 and the base-emitter of TR3 conduct cur-
rent and turn on TR3. TR2 and TR1 then turn off,
decreasing the field current and the system voltage.
The voltage at D4 decreases; D4 and TR3 turn off;
TR2 and TR1 turn back on and the system voltage
increases. This cycle then repeats many times per
second, limiting the system voltage as determined by
the setting of R2 and R3.
The capacitor C1 protects the diodes from high tran-
sient voltages and suppresses radio interference.
The resistor R5 prevents current leakage through
TR3 at high temperatures.
The diode D5 prevents high transient voltages in the
field coil when the field current is decreasing.

General Information
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10
2
1
11
18
17 16 15 14 13 12
19
10/13/94 f150021a
1. Relay Terminal 8. Stationary Field Coil (brushless 14. Rotor
2. Plug construction) 15. Stator Lead Grommet
3. External Voltage Adjustment 9. Retainer Plate 16. Seal
4. Regulator 10. Seals 17. Grease Reservoir
5. Output Terminal 11. Ball Bearing 18. Diodes
6. Bearing Well Cover 12. Grease Reservoir 19. Mounting Lug
7. Roller Bearing 13. Stator Windings
Fig. 4, 25-SI Alternator Components
D1 D2 D3 DIODES
FIELD COIL
R1 R7
C1 D5
R6
C3 R4
STATOR
D4
TR3 TR1
TR2 GENERATOR
R2 C2
R5
R3
REGULATOR
OUTPUT R
BATTERY
10/13/94 f150022a
Fig. 5, Wiring Diagram, Negative Ground Circuit

25/26–SI Alternator Removal and Installation,
Cummins N14/NTC
1. Disconnect the batteries. 1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten-
ers. If necessary, tighten them 34 lbf·ft (46 N·m).
2. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them
from the alternator. 2. Install the alternator on the engine with the end
link attached. Install the alternator mounting cap-
3. Loosen the adjusting rod mounting capscrew
screw, but do not tighten it yet.
(see Fig. 1, Ref. 8).
5 7
4 6
8
1
2 2
9
3 3
05/23/2005 f150410c
1. 25/26–SI Alternator 6. Adjusting Nut

2. End Link Mounting Capscrew 7. Adjusting Rod
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew 8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut 9. Alternator Bracket Capscrew
5. End Link
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Cummins N14/NTC Engine
4. Loosen the end link mounting capscrew and the 3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or
alternator mounting capscrew (see Fig. 1, Refs. twist the belt over the pulley.
2 and 3). Turn the adjusting nut (Ref. 6) counter-
4. Tighten the adjusting nut (see Fig. 1, Ref. 6) until
clockwise, backing the alternator toward the drive
the belt is correctly tensioned. For belt tightening
pulley far enough to remove the drive belt with-
specifications, see Section 01.07, Subject 100.
out prying or twisting the belt. Remove the drive
While holding the adjusting nut in place, install
belt from the vehicle.
the adjusting rod jam nut and tighten it 95 lbf·ft
5. Remove the adjusting rod jam nut (Ref. 4) and (130 N·m).
alternator mounting capscrew. Remove the alter-
5. Tighten the end link mounting capscrew and the
nator from the vehicle with the end link attached.
alternator mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m).
6. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec- Tighten the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 50
tion 01.07, Subject 180. lbf·ft (68 N·m).

Cummins N14/NTC
6. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as

previously marked. Tighten the output terminal
nut 100 lbf·in (1140 N·cm). Tighten the ground
terminal nut 65 lbf·in (740 N·cm). For other termi-
nals, tighten the nut 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm).
7. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
electric red enamel. See Table 1.
Protectant Material Approved Brands

MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
the PDC
Glyptal 1201EW– Low VOC,
Brush-On Application Red; order at www.glyptal.com
or 1-800-GLP-1201
Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel

9. Before returning the vehicle to operation, test the
alternator DC output voltage. For instructions,
see "Alternator Voltage Output Test" in Trouble-
shooting, 300.

Cummins M11/L10
from the alternator. 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
adjusting block mounting bolt and the alternator
3. Loosen the adjusting block mounting bolt, adjust-
mounting capscrew, but do not tighten them yet.
ing arm mounting capscrew, and alternator
mounting capscrew just enough to allow move- 3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or
ment of the alternator. See Fig. 1. twist the belt over the pulley.
6 8
2 5 4
1
7
05/17/96 f150557a
1. 25/26–SI Alternator 6. Adjusting Block Mounting Bolt

2. Drive Belt 7. Adjusting Screw
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew 8. Adjusting Arm Mounting Capscrew
4. Adjusting Screw Locknut 9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners
5. Adjusting Block
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Cummins M11/L10 Engine
4. Loosen the adjusting screw locknut. See Fig. 1, 4. Turn the adjusting screw (see Fig. 1, Ref. 7)
Ref. 4. Turn the adjusting screw (Ref. 7) counterclockwise until the belt is correctly tensioned. For
clockwise, backing off the alternator toward the belt tightening specifications, see Sec-
drive pulley far enough to remove the drive belt tion 01.07, Subject 110. Tighten the adjusting
without prying or twisting the belt. Remove the screw locknut (Ref. 4) 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m).
drive belt from the vehicle.
5. Tighten the alternator mounting capscrew (see
5. Remove the adjusting block mounting bolt and Fig. 1, Ref. 3) 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m); tighten the ad-
the alternator mounting capscrew. Remove the justing block mounting bolt (Ref. 6) 30 lbf·ft (41
alternator from the vehicle. N·m); tighten the adjusting arm mounting cap-
screw (Ref. 8) 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m).
6. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 01.07, Subject 180.

Cummins M11/L10


the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

shooting, 300.

Caterpillar 3306
Removal 10
1. Disconnect the batteries. 1 11

from the alternator.
3. Loosen the end link and alternator mounting cap-
screws (see Fig. 1, Ref. 2 and 3) and the adjust-
ing rod mounting capscrew (Ref. 8).
4. Back off the adjusting nut (see Fig. 1, Ref. 6) on A
the adjusting rod, allowing the alternator to be
moved far enough toward the drive pulley to re-
move the fan drive belt without prying or twisting
the belt. Remove the drive belt from the vehicle.
5. Remove the end link and alternator mounting
capscrews. Remove the alternator from the ve- 8
hicle. 5 67
tion 01.07, Subject 180. 4
2
Installation
1
1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten-
3 11
2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
end link and alternator mounting capscrews, but 9
do not tighten them yet.
3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or
twist the belt over the pulley. B
4. Loosen the adjusting rod jam nut (see Fig. 1,

Ref. 4). Then, tighten the adjusting nut (Ref. 6)
until the belt is correctly tensioned. For belt tight-
ening specifications, see Section 01.07, Sub-
ject 120. While holding the adjusting nut in 11/05/96 f150527
place, tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 65 lbf·ft A. With Refrigerant Compressor
(88 N·m). B. Without Refrigerant Compressor
1. 25/26–SI Alternator 7. Adjusting Rod
5. Tighten the end link mounting capscrew, the al-
2. End Link Mounting 8. Adjusting Rod
ternator mounting capscrew, and the adjusting Capscrew Mounting Capscrew
rod mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m). 3. Alternator Mounting 9. Alternator Bracket
6. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as Capscrew Fasteners
4. Adjusting Rod Jam 10. Refrigerant
Nut Compressor
nut 100 lbf·in (1140 N·cm). Tighten the ground 5. End Link 11. Fan Drive
terminal nut 65 lbf·in (740 N·cm). For other termi- 6. Adjusting Nut
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3306 Engine

Caterpillar 3306

the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

shooting, 300.

Caterpillar 3406
Removal 4 7
5
1. Disconnect the batteries. 2 6 10
2. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them 1

NOTE: Three different installations are possible-
.For vehicles with a piston-type refrigerant com-
pressor, see Fig. 1. For vehicles with a rotary
(swash-plate) refrigerant compressor, see 8
Fig. 2. For vehicles with no air conditioning, see
3
Fig. 3.
3. Back off the adjusting nut (Ref. 6, all figures).
Loosen the end link mounting capscrew and the 9
02/15/96 f011044
alternator mounting capscrew enough to allow
movement of the alternator. 1. 25/26–SI Alternator
2. End Link Mounting Capscrew
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut
5. End Link
8 6. Adjusting Nut
10
4 5 6 7. Adjusting Rod
7
8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew
9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners
2 10. Refrigerant Compressor
1 Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3406 Engine
with Rotary Refrigerant Compressor
4. Push the loosened alternator far enough toward

the fan drive pulley to allow removal of the drive
belts without using force.
5. Slip each drive belt (dual drive belts) off the pul-
3 leys and work it over one fan blade at a time.
Remove both belts from the vehicle.
6. Remove the two mounting capscrews already
loosened. Remove the alternator from the ve-
9
hicle.
06/13/96 f150558
7. Inspect the drive belts. For instructions, see Sec-
1. 25/26–SI Alternator tion 01.07, Subject 180.
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut Installation
5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut 1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten-
7. Adjusting Rod ers. If necessary, tighten them 34 lbf·ft (46 N·m).
9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
10. Refrigerant Compressor end link mounting capscrew and the alternator
with Piston-Type Refrigerant Compressor

Caterpillar 3406

4
5 MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
2 6 Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
7 the PDC
1
8 Glyptal 1201EW– Low VOC,
or 1-800-GLP-1201
3 9. Connect the batteries.

9 shooting, 300.
11/05/96 f011047
1. 25/26–SI Alternator
5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod
with No Air Conditioning

ing force.
4. Work each belt over the fan blades, one blade at
a time. Install both drive belts on the pulleys
without prying or rolling them into place. For belt
tightening procedures and specifications, see
Section 01.07, Subject 150.
5. After each belt has been correctly tensioned,
tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 65 lbf·ft (88
N·m).
6. Tighten both the end link and the alternator
mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m).

Caterpillar 3176/C–10
Removal
from the alternator. 8
3. Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt tensioner

1
and rotate the tensioner down and off the alter-
nator drive belt. See Fig. 1 for slotted-strap alter-
nators. See Fig. 2 for fixed-strap alternators.
3
2 7
4 9
8
6
1
5
10/16/95 f150556
Rotate the belt tensioner down and off the belt.
1. 25/26–SI Alternator
3 2. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Top
9 3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Bottom
4. Fan Pulley
6 5. Vibration Damper
6. Alternator Drive Belt
7. Adjusting Strap
5 8. Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew
9. Belt Tensioner
04/03/96 f150563 Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3176 Engine,

Rotate the belt tensioner down and off the belt. Fixed Strap
1. 25/26–SI Alternator 4. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove each
2. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Top drive belt from its pulley. Slowly release the belt
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Bottom
4. Fan Pulley
tensioner and remove the breaker bar.
5. Vibration Damper 5. Lower each drive belt, and take it off the vibra-
6. Alternator Drive Belt tion damper. It is not necessary to remove either
7. Adjusting Strap belt from the vehicle.
8. Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew
9. Belt Tensioner 6. Remove both alternator mounting capscrews.
Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3176/C-10
Engine, Slotted Strap NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the adjust-
ing strap from the engine.
NOTE: There are two drive belts to remove. Be-
fore removing the alternator belt, it is necessary 7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-
to remove the refrigerant compressor belt from tion 01.07, Subject 180.
its pulleys.

Installation 5. When the alternator is correctly positioned,

tighten both alternator mounting capscrews 65
lbf·ft (88 N·m).
1. Check the torque of the adjusting strap mounting
capscrew. If necessary, tighten it 65 lbf·ft (88 6. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as
N·m). previously marked. Tighten the output terminal
2. Install the alternator on the engine. If the alterna-
tor adjusting strap is slotted, install the alternator
at the inboard edge of the slot initially. Install the
top and bottom alternator mounting capscrews, 7. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
but do not tighten them yet. electric red enamel. See Table 1.
3. Install the drive belts on the pulleys. For belt
tightening procedures and specifications, see Protectant Material Approved Brands
Section 01.07, Subject 130. MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
4. On slotted straps, verify that the edge of the ten- the PDC
sioner arm is within the green zone on the decal.
See Fig. 3. If within the red zone, pivot the alter- Glyptal 1201EW– Low VOC,
nator outboard until the tensioner arm enters the Brush-On Application Red; order at www.glyptal.com
or 1-800-GLP-1201
green zone.

shooting, 300.
2
2
1
A B
02/28/96 f011048
A. Belt Off, No Tension

B. Belt On, Correct Tension
1. Decal
2. Edge of Tensioner Arm
3. Green Zone (operating range)
Fig. 3, Belt Tensioner With Decal
NOTE: If the belt slips, repair or replace the ten-

sioner. For instructions, see the Caterpillar 3176
or C–10 Truck Engine Service Manual.

DDC 50
Removal rolling or prying the belt. Remove the drive belt

from the vehicle, working the belt over one fan
1. Disconnect the batteries. blade at a time.
2. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them 6. Remove the alternator and adjusting rod mount-
from the alternator. ing capscrews. Remove the alternator from the
vehicle.
3. Loosen the end link mounting capscrew (see
Fig. 1 Ref. 2), the adjusting rod mounting cap- 7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-
screw (Ref. 8), and the alternator mounting cap- tion 01.07, Subject 180.
screw (Ref. 3).
Installation
4 ers. If necessary, tighten them 43 to 54 lbf·ft (58
5 to 73 N·m).
6
7 alternator mounting capscrew and the adjusting
2 rod mounting capscrew, but do not tighten them
yet.
8 3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or
twist the belt over the pulley.
1 4. Loosen the adjusting rod jam nut (see Fig. 1,
until the belt is at the correct tension. For belt
tightening specifications, see Sec-
tion 01.07, Subject 160. While holding the ad-
3
justing nut in place, tighten the adjusting rod jam
9 5. Tighten the alternator mounting capscrew and

11/05/96 f011042 the end link mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88
1. 25/26–SI Alternator N·m).
2. End Link Mounting Capscrew 6. Tighten the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 45
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew lbf·ft (61 N·m).
5. End Link 7. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as
6. Adjusting Nut previously marked. Tighten the output terminal
7. Adjusting Rod nut 100 lbf·in (1140 N·cm). Tighten the ground
8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew terminal nut 65 lbf·in (740 N·cm). For other termi-
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 50 8. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
4. Back off the adjusting nut (see Fig. 1, Ref. 6). electric red enamel. See Table 1.
Turn the adjusting rod jam nut (Ref. 4) to rotate
the alternator up and toward the engine. Make Protectant Material Approved Brands
sure the distance between the pulley centers is MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
now short enough to allow belt removal without Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
using force. the PDC
5. When the alternator is close enough to the en-
gine, slip the drive belt off the pulleys without

DDC 50

or 1-800-GLP-1201

shooting, 300.

DDC 60
Removal 4 5
6
1. Disconnect the batteries. 2
1
8
NOTE: Three different installations are possible. 9
3
For DDEC III vehicles with air conditioning (top-
mounted refrigerant compressor), see Fig. 1.
For DDEC II vehicles with air conditioning (side-
For vehicles with no air conditioning, see Fig. 3.
(Ref. 8, all figures), the end link mounting cap-
screw (Ref. 2), and the alternator mounting cap-
screw (Ref. 3). Loosen these three mounting
capscrews enough to allow movement of the al-
ternator.
9
11/05/96 f011043
7 8 1. 25/26–SI Alternator
6
5 2. End Link Mounting Capscrew
4 3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew
5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod
1 Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, DDEC II with Air

Conditioning
3 the fan drive pulley to allow removal of the drive
07/26/96 f150561 5. Remove the drive belt from the pulleys without
1. 25/26–SI Alternator prying or twisting the belt.
6. Remove the end link mounting capscrew and the
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut alternator mounting capscrew. Remove the alter-
5. End Link nator from the vehicle.
6. Adjusting Nut 7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-
7. Adjusting Rod
9. Refrigerant Compressor
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, DDEC III with Air
Installation
Conditioning
4. Back off the adjusting nut (see Fig. 1, Ref. 6). ers. If necessary, tighten them 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m).
Push the loosened alternator far enough toward

DDC 60

4 5 previously marked. Tighten the output terminal
6 nut 100 lbf·in (1140 N·cm). Tighten the ground
2
1 terminal nut 65 lbf·in (740 N·cm). For other termi-
7 nals, tighten the nut 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm).
8 8. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-

3
the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

11/05/96 f011046 see "Alternator Voltage Output Test" in Trouble-
1. 25/26–SI Alternator shooting, 300.
5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod
Fig. 3, Alternator Installation, All Detroit Diesel Series
60 Engines without Air Conditioning

end link mounting capscrew and the alternator
3. Loop the drive belt around the pulleys.
4. Install the drive belt on the pulleys without prying
or rolling it into place. For belt tightening proce-
dures and specifications, see Sec-
5. After the belt has been correctly tensioned,
N·m).
Tighten the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 34
lbf·ft (46 N·m).

DDC 55
Removal to remove the refrigerant compressor belt from

its pulleys.
1. Disconnect the batteries. 4. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove each
2. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them drive belt from its pulley. Slowly release each belt
from the alternator. tensioner and remove the breaker bar.
3. Insert a breaker bar in the alternator belt ten- 5. Lower each belt, and take it off the vibration
sioner (see Fig. 1, Ref. 4) and rotate the ten- damper. Raise each belt, and take it off over the
sioner down and off the alternator drive belt. fan. Remove the drive belts from the vehicle.
6. Remove the top and bottom alternator mounting
5 capscrews. If necessary to remove the alternator
from the vehicle, loosen the adjusting strap
mounting capscrew. It is not necessary to re-
move the adjusting strap.
6 tion 01.07, Subject 180.
8
Installation
2 1. Check the torque of the adjusting strap mounting
7 capscrew. If necessary, tighten it 65 lbf·ft (88
N·m).
1
9 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
3 two alternator mounting capscrews (top and bot-
tom), but do not tighten them yet.
4
3. Install the drive belts on the pulleys. For belt
NOTE: The Detroit Diesel belt tensioner auto-
matically adjusts the drive belts to the correct
tension. If the belt slips, repair or replace the
12/15/95 f150559
tensioner. For instructions, see the engine
manufacturer’s service literature.
1. 25/26–SI Alternator 4. Tighten both alternator mounting capscrews 65
2. Altenator Mounting Capscrew, Top lbf·ft (88 N·m).
4. Alternator Belt Tensioner 5. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as
5. Fan Pulley previously marked. Tighten the output terminal
6. Alternator Drive Belt nut 100 lbf·in (1140 N·cm). Tighten the ground
7. Alternator Adjusting Strap terminal nut 65 lbf·in (740 N·cm). For other termi-
8. Alternator Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew nals, tighten the nut 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm).
9. Vibration Damper
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 55 electric red enamel. See Table 1.
Engine

fore removing the alternator belt, it is necessary

DDC 55

the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

shooting, 300.

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting moved before proceeding with the alterna-

tor test. To remove the surface charge, do
the following:
Many alternators have been replaced that later inves-
tigation reveals were working properly. This may be A. Turn on the headlights and blower mo-
due to incorrectly diagnosing the problem. tor for 2 minutes without restarting the
engine.
IMPORTANT: Before testing, make sure:
B. Reset the tester by disconnecting, then
• All belts are correctly tightened; reconnecting the tester alligator clips.
• The wiring and terminals are clean and in The analyzer will again perform its
good condition; self-test.
• All terminal nuts are torqued and properly pro- C. Repeat the applicable steps of the
tected. Pre-Test Procedure.
Delco Remy has an alternator testing tool called the • NO CHARGE (red) LED indicates the bat-
Intelli-Check Alternator Analyzer. See Fig. 1. This tery voltage is below 12.8. This LED
tool (DR 10457848, a single tester, or DR 10457865, should illuminate for most tests. Proceed
a four-pack of testers) is to be used as a quick check with the alternator test.
of the alternator to see if it is working correctly.
• LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue) LED
NOTE: If you do not have the Delco Intelli- indicates the battery voltage is below
Check Tester, or if the alternator rated output is 12.35. If the batteries will start the vehicle,
above 145 amps, or if a total vehicle charging proceed with the alternator test. However,
system analysis is required, see "Alternator/ after completing the Intelli-Check alternator
test, perform the procedures under
Charging System Testing."
"Alternator/Charging System Testing" to
determine the condition of the rest of the
Intelli-Check Alternator Analyzer charging system.
The following information includes a pre-test proce-
dure and operating instructions for the Delco Intelli- Tester Operating Instructions
Check Tester, and is similar to the procedures pro- (Engine Running)
vided by Delco with the Intelli-Check Tester.
1. Start the engine using onboard batteries only. If
Pre-Test Procedure (Engine Off) the batteries will not start the engine, they must
be charged for 2 hours. Start the test again after
1. Inspect the alternator connections to verify that charging the batteries.
all terminals are secured and tight. Verify that the
sense wire is connected to the sense terminal on 2. Verify the engine is at idle and all electrical loads
vehicles equipped with remote-sense alternators. are off.
2. With the engine off, connect the red alligator clip 3. Depress the accelerator to governed speed, hold
to the output terminal of the alternator. Connect for 10 seconds, then return to idle.
the black alligator clip to the alternator ground. • If the GOOD (green) LED illuminates, pro-
An optional ground connection is to the body of ceed to the next step.
the alternator. The tester LEDs will illuminate and
then go off as it performs a self-test. • If any LEDs illuminate indicating over-
charge, partial charge or no charge (the
3. After 4 seconds the tester will activate. The fol- three red lights in the DEFECTIVE sec-
lowing LEDs may illuminate depending on the tion), replace the alternator and run the
condition of the batteries: complete test again.
• GOOD (green) LED indicates the battery • If the LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue)
voltage is above 12.8 and has a surface LED illuminates, evaluate the charging
charge. The surface charge must be re-

Troubleshooting
09/10/99 f150983
1. Red Alligator Clip
2. Black Alligator Clip
3. Hand-Held Alternator Analyzer
Fig. 1, Delco Remy Intelli-Check Alternator Analyzer

system using the instructions in 8. If the LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue) LED illu-
"Alternator/Charging System Testing." minates, evaluate the charging system using the
instructions in "Alternator/Charging System Test-
4. With the engine running, turn on all electrical ing".
loads.
5. Depress the accelerator to governed speed, hold Alternator/Charging System Testing
for 10 seconds, then return to idle.
Battery Open Circuit Voltage Test,
6. If the GOOD (green) LED illuminates, the alter-
nator is OK and the test is complete.
Alternator Output Voltage Test and
Alternator Amperage Output Test
NOTE: If the alternator tests OK in the above
tests, and the customer’s complaint is reduced 1. Use a digital volt-ohmmeter (VOM) set on the
battery or headlight life, see "Alternator/ 2-20VDC (or similar) scale to test the battery
Charging System Testing" to completely analyze open circuit voltage (OCV). With the engine shut
down and the voltmeter set up as shown in
the charging system. Fig. 2, check for voltage of 12.4 volts or more.
7. If any LEDs illuminate indicating overcharge, par-
If the OCV is 12.4 volts or more, turn on the ve-
tial charge or no charge (the three red lights in
hicle headlights for approximately 3 minutes.
the DEFECTIVE section), replace the alternator
and run the complete test again. If the OCV is less than 12.4 volts, charge the
batteries properly. For instructions, see
Group 54.

Troubleshooting
IMPORTANT: Be sure to disconnect the batter- 2.2 Connect the positive (+) lead of the digital
ies or remove them from the vehicle before voltmeter (still set on the 2-20VDC or
charging. similar scale) to the alternator (battery)
terminal. Connect the negative (–) lead of
2. Check the alternator output without a load. See the voltmeter to the alternator negative
Fig. 3. (–) ground terminal. See Fig. 3.
2.3 If the voltmeter reads from 13.8 to 14.2
1 2 volts, record this reading (V1) and go to
the next step. If the alternator reads less
than 13.8 volts and is adjustable, try to
adjust the voltage regulator to 13.8 to
14.2 volts. If unable to obtain acceptable
output, replace the alternator.
02/26/97 f150607 3. Check the alternator output under load. See
1. Battery Fig. 3.
2. Digital Voltmeter 3.1 Attach a clamp-on induction ammeter
Fig. 2, Setup 1: Battery Open Circuit Voltage (and around the positive (+) wire. See Fig. 3.
alternator amperage output)
NOTE: Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches
(15 cm) away from the alternator.
1 3.2 With the engine still running at 1500 rpm,
turn on the following electrical accesso-
ries to load the alternator until the amme-
2 ter reads 60 to 75 amps.
A • Both front and rear heater blowers
(on HIGH)
3 • Headlights (high beams)
• Road lights
B • Interior lights
NOTE: As an alternate method of putting
6
load on the alternator, connect a carbon pile
G
5
tester and set it to 60 to 75 amps.
3.3 Keep the voltmeter connected as in the
4 previous step; positive (+) lead connected
to the alternator positive (+) terminal;
02/11/98 f150938
negative (–) lead connected to the alter-
nator negative (–) terminal.
A. Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches (15 cm)
away from the alternator. 3.4 If the voltmeter reads from 13.6 to 14.2
1. Battery 4. Alternator volts, record this reading (V2) and go to
2. Ammeter 5. Cranking Motor the next step.
3. Digital Voltmeter 6. Solenoid
If the voltmeter reads less than 13.6 volts,
Fig. 3, Setup 2: Alternator Output Test replace the alternator.
2.1 Start the engine and run it at 1500 rpm 4. Perform an alternator amperage output test.
for 3 to 5 minutes to stabilize the system 4.1 Connect a carbon pile tester across the
before proceeding to the next step. vehicle batteries as shown in Fig. 2.

Troubleshooting
NOTE: Figure 2 shows a voltmeter, but the 6.1 Check all connections between the bat-
connections for the carbon pile tester are the tery, starter and alternator for tightness
same. and signs of corrosion. Tighten and clean
as necessary.
4.2 Attach a clamp-on induction ammeter
around the alternator output wire. See 6.2 Check all cables for breaks or partial
Fig. 3. breaks. Repair or replace as necessary.
NOTE: Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches 6.3 Check each ring terminal for breakage at
(15 cm) away from the alternator. the point where it attaches to its wire or
cable.
4.3 Start the engine and make sure all ve-
hicle electrical accessories are turned off.
Run it at fast speed and adjust the tester
to the alternator maximum current output.
Record this output value.
NOTE: Ensure that the alternator is turning
at maximum available rpms and keep adjust-
ing the tester dial until the ammeter reads its
highest value.
4.4 Turn off the tester and shut down the en-
gine.
4.5 If the output value recorded is less than
85 percent of the rated amperage output,
repeat the test. If the output value re-
corded is still less than 85 percent of the
rated amperage output, replace the alter-
nator.
4.6 Make sure that all test instruments are
removed and that the vehicle wiring is
returned to its operational state.
5. To identify other problem areas within the ve-
hicle, check the operation of the charging sys-
tem. Set up the voltmeter as shown in Fig. 2 and
Fig. 3.
NOTE: For any load at 1500 rpm or more,
battery voltage must be within 0.5 volts of
the alternator voltage.
5.1 If readings at the batteries are within 0.5
volts of the readings at the alternator, the
charging system is working correctly.
Check other areas of the vehicle to locate
the problem.
5.2 If the reading at the batteries is more
than 0.5 volts lower than the reading at
the alternator, do the next step.
6. Check charging system connections, cables and
terminals.

Specifications
See Fig. 1 for a Delco Remy 25/26–SI alternator wir-

ing diagram.
F
M B
16
G S
+ −
1 2
7 83
04/08/96 f541261
1. Starter 2. Alternator
Fig. 1, Delco Remy 25/26-SI Alternator Wiring Diagram
Mounting Fastener Torques, Caterpillar Engines

Caterpillar 3306 and 3406 Engines
End Link Mounting Capscrew 8PO 1/2–13 65 (88)
Alternator Mounting Capscrew 8PO 1/2–13 65 (88)
Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew 8PO 1/2–13 65 (88)
Adjusting Rod Jam Nut 5 1/2 65 (88)
Alternator Bracket Fasteners 5PO 3/8–16 34 (46)
Caterpillar 3176/C–10 Engine
Alternator Mounting Capscrews 8PO 1/2–13 65 (88)
Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew 10.9PO M12 65 (88)
Table 1, Mounting Fastener Torques, Caterpillar Engines
Mounting Fastener Torques, Cummins Engines

Cummins N14/NTC Engine
Cummins M11/L10 Engine
Adjusting Block Mounting Bolt 8 3/8 30 (41)
Adjusting Screw Locknut 5 5/8 95 (130)
Adjusting Arm Mounting Capscrew 5 1/2–13 55 (75)

Specifications

Table 2, Mounting Fastener Torques, Cummins Engines
Mounting Fastener Torques, Detroit Diesel Engines

Detroit Diesel Series 50 Engine
Alternator Bracket Fasteners 5PO 3/8–16 43–54 (58–73)
Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew 10.9PO M10 34 (46)
Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew 8PO 1/2–13 65 (88)
Table 3, Mounting Fastener Torques, Detroit Diesel Engines
Description Grade Size Torque: lbf·in (N·cm)

Alternator Output ("BAT") Terminal Nut 5 5/16–18 100 (1140)
Alternator Ground ("G") Terminal Nut 5 1/4–20 65 (740)
Instrument ("I") or Relay ("R") Terminal Nut 8.8 M4 20 (220)
Table 4, Terminal Fastener Torques, All Engines

Alternator, Delco Remy 30–SI and 30–SITR Series, Type
400 15.02
General Information and 3 4

The Delco Remy 30-SI and 30-SITR series alterna-
tors (see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) feature a solid-state 2
regulator that is mounted inside the end frame. The
only movable part in the assembly is the rotor, which 1
is mounted on a ball bearing at the drive end, and a
roller bearing at the rectifier end. See Fig. 3 and
Fig. 4. All current-carrying conductors are stationary.
These conductors are the field-winding stator compo-
nents. The regulator and diodes are enclosed in a
sealed compartment.
1. Transformer Rectifier
2 3 (TR unit)
2. 24 Volt Output Terminal
3. 12 Volt Output Terminal
1 4. Ground Screw
01/26/93 f150404
Fig. 2, 30-SITR Alternator

charged at a low rate to maintain its full state of
charge. The vehicle electrical system, except for the
cranking motor, is 12 volts. The 30-SITR eliminates
the need for a series-parallel switch and associated
wiring.
As the rotor begins to turn, the permanent magne-
tism within induces voltages in the stator windings.
The voltages across the diodes cause current to flow,
1. End Plate charging the battery. Refer to Fig. 5 or to Fig. 6.
2. Output Terminal
3. Ground Screw Current from the stator flows through the diode trio to
01/26/93 f150403
resistor R5 and the base-emitter of TR3 and TR1, to
turn on these transistors. Current also flows from the
Fig. 1, 30-SI Alternator stator through the diode trio, the field coil, and tran-
sistor TR1, returning to the stator through the diodes
A fan located on the drive end provides airflow for in the rectifier bridge.
cooling. All bearings are sealed so that no periodic
maintenance is required. When the voltage becomes high enough due to in-
creasing alternator speed, current flow through R2
Only one wire connects the alternator to the battery, and R3 causes voltage at the zener diode D1. Tran-
along with a ground return. Since the vehicle’s sys- sistor TR2 turns on, and transistors TR1 and TR3
tem is negative ground, the output terminal connects turn off. As the field current and the system voltage
to the battery’s positive terminal. A relay terminal la- decrease, D1 blocks current flow, causing TR1 and
beled "R" is available for use in some circuits to op- TR3 to turn on again and increase system voltag-
erate auxiliary equipment. e.This cycle then repeats many times per second
The 30-SITR is a standard 30-SI with a transformer- limiting the system voltage to the adjusted value.
rectifier (TR unit) mounted on the end frame. The TR Capacitor C1 smooths out the voltage across R3;
unit provides a separate voltage to charge a cranking resistor R4 prevents current leakage through TR1 at
battery. The cranking battery is connected in series high temperatures; and diode D2 prevents high tran-
with the system battery to provide 24-volt cranking. sient voltages in the field coil when TR1 turns off.
When the engine is running, the cranking battery is

15.02 400
If equipped with the transformer-rectifier unit, the bat-

teries are connected in series and provide 24 volts
for starting. The delta primary of the TR unit is con-
nected to the delta stator ( see Fig. 6). The alternat-
ing current voltages in the stator cause current flow
in the delta primary. This creates magnetic fields that
induce voltages in the TR unit’s secondary winding.
The secondary winding then provides current through
the rectifier bridge to charge the charging battery.
2 5
6
1 3 4
7
13
8
12 11 10 9
1. Relay Terminal 6. Lip Seals 11. Heavy−Duty

2. Rectifier Bridge 7. Heavy−Duty Roller Bearing
3. Output Terminal Ball Bearing with Lip Seal
4. Grease Reservoir 8. Grease Reservoir 12. Integrated−Circuit
5. Stationary Field Coil 9. Rotor Regulator
(brushless construction) 10. Stator 13. External Voltage
Adjustment
02/17/93 f150405
Fig. 3, 30-SI Sectional View

400 15.02
1 2 3 4
7
12 11 8
10 9
1. Generator Rectifier 4. Steel Bushing with 8. Grease Reservoir 11. Heavy−Duty Roller
Bridge Locking Thread 9. Steel Mounting Bearing with Lip Seal
2. Grease Reservoir 5. Lip Seal Bushing 12. Integrated−Circuit
3. Stationary Field Coil 6. Labyrinth Seal 10. Steel Adjustable Regulator
(brushless construction) 7. Heavy−Duty Mounting Bushing
Ball Bearing
02/17/93 f150406
Fig. 4, 30-SITR Sectional View
BAT.
STATOR
RECTIFIER
BRIDGE
VOLTAGE
ADJUSTMENT
R1
R2 R5 D2
TR2 TR3
BATTERY
D1
R4
C1
R3
TR1 FIELD
REGULATOR DIODE TRIO
10/17/94 f150407
Fig. 5, 30-SI Wiring Diagram, Negative Ground Circuit

15.02 400
+ 24 V
TRANSFORMER
1:2 RATIO
"C"
BATTERY
TR BRIDGE
+ 12 V
BAT.
START
MAGNETIC
SWITCH
STATOR
RECTIFIER
BRIDGE
R1
R2 R5 D2
"S"
TR2 TR3 BATTERY
D1
R4
C1
R3
24 VOLT
TR1 FIELD CRANKING
DIODE TRIO MOTOR
REGULATOR
10/18/94 f150408
Fig. 6, 30-SITR Wiring Diagram, Negative Ground

Circuit

400 15.02
Alternator Removal and Installation
Removal C
D B
1. Disconnect the batteries. E
2. Disconnect and mark the battery lead wire on the
alternator.
3. Loosen the three mounting fasteners ( Fig. 1,
Fig. 2, or Fig. 3, Refs. A, B, and E).
4. On Cummins L10 installations, loosen the adjust-
ing screw locknut. See Fig. 1, Ref. D. Turn the A
adjusting screw (Ref. C) counterclockwise, back-
ing off the alternator toward the drive pulley far
enough to remove the drive belt without prying or
twisting the belt. F
On Cummins NTC and Caterpillar 3306 installa-
tions, back off the inner jam nut ( Fig. 2 or
Fig. 3, Ref. D) on the alternator adjusting rod, 05/23/2005 f150409
allowing the alternator to be moved toward the Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, L10
drive pulley far enough to remove the drive belt
without prying or twisting the belt. manual for belt tightening specifications. While
5. Remove the two fasteners that attach the alter- holding the inner jam nut in place, tighten the
nator to the engine, and remove the alternator. outer jam nut on Cummins NTC installations 155
lbf·ft (210 N·m); tighten the outer jam nut on Cat-
6. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, refer to erpillar 3306 installations 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m).
the engine section in this manual.
5. On Cummins L10 installations, tighten the lower-
mounting bolt nut ( Fig. 1, Ref. A) 60 lbf·ft (80
Installation N·m); tighten the upper-mounting fastener (Ref.
B) 35 lbf·ft (50 N·m); tighten the adjusting arm
1. Check the torque of the alternator-bracket fasten- bolt (Ref. E) 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m).
ers ( Fig. 1, Fig. 2, or Fig. 3, Ref.F). On Cum-
mins installations, tighten the fasteners 33 lbf·ft On Cummins NTC and Caterpillar 3306 installa-
(45 N·m). On Caterpillar 3306 installations, tions, tighten the mounting fasteners 95 lbf·ft
tighten them 110 lbf·ft (150 N·m). (130 N·m). On Cummins NTC installations,
tighten the adjusting rod capscrew 70 lbf·ft (95
2. Install the alternator on the engine; install the two N·m). On Caterpillar 3306 installations, tighten
mounting fasteners. the adjusting rod capscrew 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m).
3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or 6. Connect the battery lead wire to the back of the
twist the belt over the pulley. alternator as previously marked. Torque the out-
put terminal bolt 100 to 110 lbf·in (1140 to 1240
4. On Cummins L10 installations, turn the adjusting
N·cm) when attaching the cable.
screw ( Fig. 1, Ref. C) clockwise until the belt is
correctly tensioned. Refer to the engine section 7. Connect the batteries.
in this manual for belt tightening specifications.
Tighten the adjusting screw locknut (Ref.D) 95 8. Magnetize the rotor by momentarily connecting a
lbf·ft (130 N·m). jumper lead from the battery positive post to the
relay terminal.
On Cummins NTC and Caterpillar 3306 installa-
tions, loosen the outer jam nut (Ref. C) on the On the 30-SITR alternator, make sure the jumper
alternator adjusting rod, then tighten the inner is connected to the positive post of the system
jam nut (Ref. D) until the belt is correctly ten- battery.
sioned. Refer to the engine section in this

15.02 400
Alternator Removal and Installation
C D
E
B B
A F
Side View Front View
05/23/2005 f150410
Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, NTC

On alternators without a relay terminal, remove
the end plate and connect a jumper lead from
the battery positive post to one of the stator lead
terminals on the rectifier bridge.

400 15.02
Alternator Checking
Checking To check for opens, connect the ohmmeter to the

field coil leads. If the ohmmeter reading is high, the
field coil is open.
NOTE: Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
For instructions, refer to Subject 100. Remove To check the winding for short-circuits, connect a bat-
the transformer-rectifier unit (on 30-SITR alter- tery and ammeter in series with the field coil. The
nators), cover plate, cover, and gasket. The rec- ammeter reading should be within 3.6 to 4.3 amps. A
tifier end frame components should be exposed higher reading means the windings are shorted. An
alternate method is to check the resistance of the
to view. Note carefully the proper connections
field by connecting an ohmmeter to the field coil. If
before proceeding. the resistance reading is below 2.8 ohms, the wind-
ing is shorted.
FIELD COIL CHECKS (See Fig. 1)
To check for grounds, connect an ohmmeter to one DIODE CHECKS (See Fig. 2)
field coil lead and to the end frame. If the ohmmeter Remove the diode trio from the end frame. Connect
reading is low, the field coil is grounded. an ohmmeter to the single connector and to one of
the diode leads. Using the lowest range scale, ob-
1 2 serve the reading. Then reverse the ohmmeter lead
connections. If both readings are the same, replace
the diode. A good diode will give one high and one
low reading. Check each of the diode leads.
STATOR CHECKS (See Fig. 1)

NOTE: Skip this section if the condition is an
overcharged battery.
Check the stator windings with an ohmmeter. Make
the connection from either stator lead to the end
frame.
3 4 2
Using an ohmmeter:
1. Check rectifier bridge.
2. Check stator 1. Diode Trio
3. Check for opens. 2. Ohmmeter
4. Check for grounds.
02/01/93 f150413
01/29/93 f150412 Fig. 2

Fig. 1, Electrical Checks, 30-SI Alternator

15.02 400
Alternator Checking
If the reading is not infinite, replace the stator. If all

2
other electrical checks are normal and the alternator
fails to supply rated output, replace the stator.
3
RECTIFIER BRIDGE CHECK
1 C
(See Fig. 1 and Fig. 3)
NOTE: Skip this section if the condition is an
overcharged battery. 4
Connect an ohmmeter to a heat sink and one of the
three stator terminals. Observe the reading. Then,
reverse the lead connections to the same heat sink
and the same terminal.
If both readings are the same, replace the rectifier
bridge. A good rectifier bridge will give one high and A
one low reading. Repeat this same test between the B
same heat sink and the other two terminals; then,
between the other heat sink and each of the three 1. 24−Volt 3. Rectifier
terminals. Output Bridge
Terminal 4. Transformer
NOTE: If the rectifier bridge has flat metal clips 2. Ohmmeter−Check
at the three studs, press down firmly on the rectifier bridge.
clips. Do not press on the threaded stud. 02/02/93 f150414
On the 30-SITR alternator, use the same procedure Fig. 3, Electrical Checks, Transformer-Rectifier Unit
above to check the rectifier bridge on the
transformer–rectifier. See Fig. 3 for test connections.
TRANSFORMER-RECTIFIER
CHECKS (See Fig. 3)
Using an ohmmeter, make the connections and elec-
trical checks as shown at points A, B, and C in
Fig. 3. If the readings are not high (infinite), replace
the TR unit.
Install the TR unit on the alternator. Disconnect the
24-volt lead on the alternator. Make sure that the
lead does not touch ground. Connect an ammeter
between the disconnected lead and the 24 volt termi-
nal on the TR unit.
Connect a 5- to 20-amp load (one or two 12-volt
headlamps) across the cranking battery. Operate the
engine as required to obtain maximum current out-
put. If the TR unit’s charging rate is less than 5
amps, replace the TR unit.

400 15.02
Bearing Replacement
Replacement 3. Pull the shaft and bearing inner race from the
end frame.
The bearings normally will not need servicing be- 4. Assemble the new inner race and bearing. Posi-
tween engine overhauls. At the time of engine over- tion the bearing seal toward the drive end. Press
haul, replace the bearings and seals, and add a against the seal end of the bearing to install the
fresh supply of lubricant to the reservoirs. housing.
DRIVE END BEARING 5. Fill the reservoir half full with Delco Remy lubri-
cant no. 1948791, or an equivalent. Add enough
Replace the drive end bearing as follows: lubricant so a portion will touch the bearing when
assembled.
1. Remove the alternator from the vehicle. For in-
structions, refer to Subject 100. 6. Install the gasket, cover, and cover plate.
2. Remove the screws, end plate, pulley, fan, and 7. Install the alternator on the vehicle. For instruc-
the four retainer plate bolts. Then remove the tions, refer to Subject 100.
rotor, collar, and bearing assembly from the end
frame.
3. Pull the bearing from the rotor shaft, separate
the retainer plate and collar from the shaft, and
discard the seals of the retainer plate and end
frame.
4. Add Delco Remy lubricant no. 1948791, or an
equivalent, so each reservoir between the bear-
ing and seal are only three-quarters full after as-
sembly. Add enough lubricant so a portion will
contact the bearing after assembly. Otherwise
the oil in the lubricant will not bleed to the bear-
ing. Also, add lubricant to each seal lip and fill
the cavity with lubricant between the rubber lip
and steel case of each seal. Assemble the seals
so that the seal lip is toward or next to the bear-
ing.
5. Lubricate the collar, then install the collar and
retainer plate. Press against the inner race to
install the new bearing onto the shaft against the
collar.
6. Install the rotor, collar, and bearing assembly on
the end frame. Install the four retainer plate
bolts, fan, pulley, end plate, and screws.
7. Install the alternator on the vehicle. For instruc-
RECTIFIER END FRAME BEARING

Replace the rectifier end frame bearing as follows:
1. Remove the alternator from the vehicle. For in-
structions, refer to Subject 100.
2. Remove the cover plate, cover, and gasket.

400 15.02
Troubleshooting

the following:
engine.

15.02 400
Troubleshooting
09/10/99 f150983

loads.
Group 54.

400 15.02
Troubleshooting
1. Battery Fig. 3.
(on HIGH)
• Road lights
6
G
5
02/11/98 f150938

15.02 400
Troubleshooting
as necessary.
cable.
highest value.
gine.
nator.
Fig. 3.
the problem.
terminals.

Alternator, Leece-Neville JB Series 15.03
General Information
General Description rotor and the stationary winding is called a stator.

See Fig. 2.
The Leece-Neville JB series alternator is a 14-volt
self-load-limiting alternator equpped with a three-step 2
adjustable voltage regulator. See Fig. 1. For voltage
regulator adjustment procedures, see Subject 180.
N
04/21/95
1 f150415a
1. Rotor 2. Stator
Fig. 2, Producing the Current
09/20/95 f150554
The rotor is electrically magnetized by a small cur-
Fig. 1, Three-Step Adjustable Voltage Regulator rent flowing through the brushes, riding on smooth
The optional SmartChek™ models feature a light- slip rings. See Fig. 3. Alternating current is then pro-
emitting diode (LED) that changes color to simplify duced as the magnetic poles of the rotor pass the
troubleshooting. When the LED is green, the alterna- coil windings of the stator.
tor is OK. When the LED is red, the alternator needs
replacing.
Six silicon diodes mounted in heat-sinks convert al- 2
ternating current from the delta-wound stator into di- N
rect current. A capacitor connected between the
heat-sinks helps suppress transient voltage spikes,
which could possibly damage the diodes. 1
The brushes and voltage regulator are located in a
waterproof housing that may be removed for replace- S
ment or inspection. An external relay terminal is also
provided for operation of a no-charge indicator light,
starter interrupt relay, or other accessories that might 04/21/95 f150416a
1. Slip Rings 2. Brushes
require power from such a source.
The voltage regulator is also equipped with transient Fig. 3, Magnetizing the Rotor
voltage protection and will withstand instantaneous These alternators have 12 magnetic poles in the ro-
opening of the charging circuit under full load condi- tor (see Fig. 4) and three separate windings in the
tions. stator (see Fig. 5). Since the rotor produces alternat-
Mounting hardware and vehicle wiring require peri- ing current as it passes the coil windings of the sta-
odic inspection. See the vehicle maintenance manual tor, increased engine speed produces more current.
for instructions. Rectifier assemblies convert alternating current to
direct current for storage in the batteries. Rectifiers
Principles of Operation consist of silicon diodes that work as electrical
switches and permit current flow in only one direc-
Current is produced by rotating a magnet inside a tion. They are mounted in an aluminum casting,
stationary winding. The rotating magnet is called a

15.03 Alternator, Leece-Neville JB Series
General Information
The diode trio converts a small amount of alternating

current from the stator into direct current which is
used as a signal to turn on the regulator.
When the battery is charged, the regulator reduces
the field current flow to the rotor. Reducing the field
current flow, in turn, reduces the alternator output.
When the headlights or accessories place a load on
the battery, the regulator increases the current flow
04/21/95 f150417a to the rotor, and alternator output increases, to main-
tain voltage.
Fig. 4, Rotor
04/21/95 f150118a
Fig. 5, Stator
which is finned to dissipate heat. This is called a
heat sink. See Fig. 6.
04/21/95 f150400a
Fig. 6, Heat Sink

The voltage regulator (see Fig. 1) controls the alter-
nator output and the state of charge of the batteries.
It is used in the charging system to regulate the bat-
tery voltage to the vehicle.

JB Series Alternator Removal and Installation,
Cummins N14/NTC
Removal 3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or

twist the belt over the pulley. If installing a new
pulley or a new alternator, tighten the pulley nut
1. Disconnect the batteries.
75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
from the alternator. See Fig. 1.
(130 N·m).
lbf·ft (68 N·m).
1 previously marked. Tighten the output terminal
04/21/95 f150117a
1. Lead Connections Protectant Material Approved Brands
Fig. 1, Battery Lead Connections MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,

3. Loosen the adjusting rod mounting capscrew the PDC
(see Fig. 2, Ref. 8). Glyptal 1201EW– Low VOC,
4. Loosen the end link mounting capscrew and the or 1-800-GLP-1201
alternator mounting capscrew (see Fig. 2, Refs.
2 and 3). Turn the adjusting nut (Ref. 6) counter- Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
clockwise, backing the alternator toward the drive
pulley far enough to remove the drive belt with- 8. Connect the batteries.
out prying or twisting the belt. Remove the drive
belt from the vehicle. 9. Before returning the vehicle to operation, test the
5. Remove the adjusting rod jam nut (Ref. 4) and see "Alternator Voltage Test" in Troubleshoot-
alternator mounting capscrew. Remove the alter- ing, 300.
Installation
2. Install the alternator on the engine with the end

Cummins N14/NTC
5 7
4 6
8
1
2 2
9
3 3
05/23/2005 f150410c
1. JB Series Alternator 6. Adjusting Nut

5. End Link

Cummins M11/L10
Removal 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the

75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
4. Turn the adjusting screw (see Fig. 2, Ref. 7)
clockwise until the belt is correctly tensioned. For
belt tightening specifications, see Sec-
tion 01.07, Subject 110. Tighten the adjusting
screw locknut (Ref. 4) 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m).
Fig. 2, Ref. 3) 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m); tighten the ad-
justing block mounting bolt (Ref. 6) 30 lbf·ft (41
1 N·m); tighten the adjusting arm mounting cap-
04/21/95 f150117a nals, tighten the nut 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm).
1. Lead Connections 7. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
Fig. 1, Battery Lead Connections electric red enamel. See Table 1.
3. Loosen the adjusting block mounting bolt, adjust- Protectant Material Approved Brands
ing arm mounting capscrew, and alternator MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
mounting capscrew just enough to allow move- Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
ment of the alternator. See Fig. 2. the PDC
4. Loosen the adjusting screw locknut. See Fig. 2, Glyptal 1201EW– Low VOC,
Ref. 4. Turn the adjusting screw (Ref. 7) counter- Brush-On Application Red; order at www.glyptal.com
clockwise, backing off the alternator toward the or 1-800-GLP-1201
drive pulley far enough to remove the drive belt Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
without prying or twisting the belt. Remove the
5. Remove the adjusting block mounting bolt and
the alternator mounting capscrew. Remove the 9. Before returning the vehicle to operation, test the
alternator from the vehicle. alternator DC output voltage. For instructions,
see "Alternator Voltage Test" in Troubleshoot-
6. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec- ing, 300.
Installation

Cummins M11/L10
6 8
2 5 4
1
7
05/17/96 f150557a
1. JB Series Alternator 6. Adjusting Block Mounting Bolt

5. Adjusting Block

Caterpillar 3306
Removal 10

1 8
5 67
2
04/21/95 f150117a
1
1. Lead Connections
Fig. 1, Battery Lead Connections
3 11
9
4. Back off the adjusting nut (see Fig. 2, Ref. 6) on B
5. Remove the end link and alternator mounting 11/05/96 f150527
capscrews. Remove the alternator from the ve-
A. With Refrigerant Compressor
hicle.
B. Without Refrigerant Compressor
6. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec- 1. JB Series Alternator 7. Adjusting Rod
tion 01.07, Subject 180. 2. End Link Mounting 8. Adjusting Rod
Capscrew Mounting Capscrew
3. Alternator Mounting 9. Alternator Bracket
Installation Capscrew Fasteners
1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten- Nut Compressor
ers. If necessary, tighten them 34 lbf·ft (46 N·m). 5. End Link 11. Fan Drive
6. Adjusting Nut
end link and alternator mounting capscrews, but Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3306 Engine

Caterpillar 3306

75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
ject 120. While holding the adjusting nut in
place, tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 65 lbf·ft
(88 N·m).
ternator mounting capscrew, and the adjusting
rod mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m).

the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

shooting, 300.

Caterpillar 3406
Removal
10
2. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them 4 5 6 7
2
1
9
06/13/96 f150558
1. JB Series Alternator
04/21/95 f150117a
1. Lead Connections 4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut
5. End Link
Fig. 1, Battery Lead Connections 6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod
NOTE: Three different installations are possible- 8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew
.For vehicles with a piston-type refrigerant com- 9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners
pressor, see Fig. 2. For vehicles with a rotary 10. Refrigerant Compressor
(swash-plate) refrigerant compressor, see
Fig. 3. For vehicles with no air conditioning, see with Piston-Type Refrigerant Compressor
Fig. 4.
3. Back off the adjusting nut. Loosen the end link Installation
mounting capscrew and the alternator mounting
capscrew enough to allow movement of the alter- 1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten-
nator. ers. Tighten the fasteners 34 lbf·ft (46 N·m).
4. Push the loosened alternator far enough toward 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
the fan drive pulley to allow removal of the drive end link mounting capscrew and the alternator
belts without using force. mounting capscrew, but do not tighten them yet.
5. Slip each drive belt (dual drive belts) off the pul- 3. Make sure the distance between the pulleys is
leys and work it over one fan blade at a time. short enough to allow belt installation without us-
Remove both drive belts from the vehicle. ing force.
6. Remove the two mounting capscrews already 4. Work each belt over the fan blades, one blade at
loosened. Remove the alternator from the ve- a time. Install both drive belts on the pulleys
hicle. without prying or rolling them into place. If install-
ing a new pulley or a new alternator, tighten the
7. Inspect the drive belts. For instructions, see Sec- pulley nut 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m). For belt tightening

Caterpillar 3406
4 7 4
5 5
2 6 10 2 6
1 7
1
8
8
3
3
9
9
02/15/96 f011044 11/05/96 f011047
1. JB Series Alternator 1. JB Series Alternator
2. End Link Mounting Capscrew 2. End Link Mounting Capscrew
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew 3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut 4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut
5. End Link 5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut 6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod 7. Adjusting Rod
8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew 8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew
9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners 9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners
Fig. 3, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3406 Engine with No Air Conditioning
procedures and specifications, see Sec-
tion 01.07, Subject 150. MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
5. After each belt has been correctly tensioned, the PDC
N·m). Brush-On Application Red; order at www.glyptal.com
6. Tighten both the end link and alternator mounting or 1-800-GLP-1201
capscrews 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m). Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
previously marked. Tighten the output terminal 9. Connect the batteries.
terminal nut 65 lbf·in (740 N·cm). For other termi- 10. Before returning the vehicle to operation, test the
nals, tighten the nut 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm). alternator DC output voltage. For instructions,
8. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di- ing, 300.

Removal
from the alternator. See Fig. 1. 8
3
9
1 6
04/03/96 f150563
04/21/95 f150117a Rotate the belt tensioner down and off the belt.
1. Lead Connections 1. JB Series Alternator
2. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Top
Fig. 1, Battery Lead Connections 3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Bottom
4. Fan Pulley
3. Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt tensioner 5. Vibration Damper
and rotate the tensioner down and off the alter- 6. Alternator Drive Belt
nator drive belt. See Fig. 2 for slotted-strap alter- 7. Alternator Adjusting Strap
nators. See Fig. 3 for fixed-strap alternators. 8. Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew
9. Belt Tensioner
Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3176/C-10
fore removing the alternator belt, it is necessary Engine, Slotted Strap
to remove the refrigerant compressor belt from
its pulleys. Installation
4. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove each
drive belt from its pulley. Slowly release the belt 1. Check the torque of the adjusting strap mounting
tensioner and remove the breaker bar. capscrew. If necessary, tighten it 65 lbf·ft (88
N·m).
5. Lower each drive belt, and take it off the vibra-
tion damper. It is not necessary to remove either 2. Install the alternator on the engine. If the alterna-
belt from the vehicle. tor adjusting strap is slotted, install the alternator
6. Remove both alternator mounting capscrews. top and bottom alternator mounting capscrews,
Remove the alternator from the vehicle. but do not tighten them yet.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the adjust- 3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. If installing a
ing strap from the engine. new pulley or a new alternator, tighten the pulley
7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec- nut 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m). For belt tightening proce-
tion 01.07, Subject 180. dures and specifications, see Sec-



7 electric red enamel. See Table 1.
4
8
the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201
3 Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
9
6
5 see "Alternator Voltage Test" in Troubleshoot-
ing, 300.
10/16/95 f150556
2. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Top
4. Fan Pulley
5. Vibration Damper
7. Alternator Adjusting Strap
9. Belt Tensioner
2
Fig. 3, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3176 Engine, 2
Fixed Strap 1
4. On slotted straps, verify that the edge of the ten-

3
See Fig. 4. If within the red zone, pivot the alter-
nator outboard until the tensioner arm enters the
green zone.
NOTE: If the belt slips, repair or replace the ten- A B
02/28/96 f011048
or C–10 Truck Engine Service Manual. A. Belt Off, No Tension
5. When the alternator is correctly positioned, 1. Decal
tighten both alternator mounting capscrews 65 2. Edge of Tensioner Arm
lbf·ft (88 N·m). 3. Green Zone (operating range)
6. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as Fig. 4, Belt Tensioner With Decal

DDC 50
Removal
5
7
2
3
1
9
11/05/96 f011042
04/21/95 f150117a
1. Lead Connections 4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut
5. End Link
Fig. 1, Battery Lead Connections 6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod
Fig. 2 Ref. 2), the adjusting rod mounting cap- 9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners
screw (Ref. 8), and the alternator mounting cap-
screw (Ref. 3). Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 50
4. Back off the adjusting nut (see Fig. 2, Ref. 6).
Turn the adjusting rod jam nut (Ref. 4) to rotate Installation
the alternator up and toward the engine. Make
sure the distance between the pulley centers is 1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten-
now short enough to allow belt removal without ers. If necessary, tighten them 43 to 54 lbf·ft (58
using force. to 73 N·m).
5. When the alternator is close enough to the en- 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
gine, slip the drive belt off the pulleys without alternator mounting capscrew and the adjusting
rolling or prying the belt. Remove the drive belt rod mounting capscrew, but do not tighten them
from the vehicle, working the belt over one fan yet.
blade at a time. 3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or
6. Remove the alternator and adjusting rod mount- twist the belt over the pulley. If installing a new
ing capscrews. Remove the alternator from the pulley or a new alternator, tighten the pulley nut
vehicle. 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec- 4. Loosen the adjusting rod jam nut (see Fig. 2,
tion 01.07, Subject 180. Ref. 4). Then, tighten the adjusting nut (Ref. 6)

DDC 50

5. Tighten the alternator mounting capscrew and
the end link mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88
N·m).
6. Tighten the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 45
lbf·ft (61 N·m).

the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

shooting, 300.

DDC 60
Removal 9
7 8
5
from the alternator. See Fig. 1. 4
1
07/26/96 f150561
5. End Link
04/21/95 f150117a 6. Adjusting Nut
1. Lead Connections 7. Adjusting Rod
Fig. 1, Battery Lead Connections 9. Refrigerant Compressor
NOTE: Three different installations are possible. Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 60
Engine
mounted refrigerant compressor), see Fig. 2. 7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-
For DDEC II vehicles with air conditioning (side- tion 01.07, Subject 180.
For vehicles with no air conditioning, see Fig. 4. Installation
(see Fig. 2, Ref. 8), the end link mounting cap- 1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten-
screw (Ref. 2), and the alternator mounting cap- ers. If necessary, tighten them 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m).
screw (Ref. 3). Loosen these mounting cap- 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
screws enough to allow movement of the end link mounting capscrew and the alternator
alternator. mounting capscrew, but do not tighten them yet.
4. Back off the adjusting nut. Push the loosened 3. Loop the drive belt around the pulleys.
alternator far enough toward the fan drive pulley
to allow removal of the drive belts without using 4. Install the drive belt on the pulleys without prying
force. or rolling it into place. If installing a new pulley or
a new alternator, tighten the pulley nut 75 lbf·ft
5. Remove the drive belt from the pulleys without (102 N·m). For belt tightening procedures and
prying or twisting the belt. specifications, see Section 01.07, Subject 140.
6. Remove the end link mounting capscrew and the 5. After the belt has been correctly tensioned,
alternator mounting capscrew. Remove the alter- tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 95 lbf·ft (130
nator from the vehicle. N·m).

DDC 60
4 5 4 5
6 6
2 2
1 1
7 7
8 8
9
3 3
11/05/96 f011043 11/05/96 f011046
1. JB Series Alternator 1. JB Series Alternator

2. End Link Mounting Capscrew 2. End Link Mounting Capscrew
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew 3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut 4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut
5. End Link 5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut 6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod 7. Adjusting Rod
8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew 8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew
Fig. 3, Alternator Installation, DDEC II with Air 60 Engines without Air Conditioning
Conditioning
alternator mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m). MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
Tighten the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 34 Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
lbf·ft (46 N·m). the PDC
7. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as Brush-On Application Red; order at www.glyptal.com
previously marked. Tighten the output terminal or 1-800-GLP-1201
terminal nut 65 lbf·in (740 N·cm). For other termi- Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
8. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di- 9. Connect the batteries.
electric red enamel. See Table 1. 10. Before returning the vehicle to operation, test the
ing, 300.

DDC 55
Removal 5

6
8
2
7
1
9
3
1 4
04/21/95 f150117a
1. Lead Connections
12/15/95 f150559
Fig. 1, Battery Lead Connections 1. JB Series Alternator
2. Altenator Mounting Capscrew, Top
3. Insert a breaker bar in the alternator belt ten- 3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Bottom
sioner (see Fig. 2, Ref. 4) and rotate the ten- 4. Alternator Belt Tensioner
sioner down and off the alternator drive belt. 5. Fan Pulley
NOTE: There are two drive belts to remove. Be- 7. Alternator Adjusting Strap
fore removing the alternator belt, it is necessary 8. Alternator Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew
to remove the refrigerant compressor belt from 9. Vibration Damper
its pulleys.
Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 55
4. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove each Engine
drive belt from its pulley. Slowly release the belt
tensioner and remove the breaker bar. Installation
tion damper. It is not necessary to remove either 1. Check the torque of the adjusting strap mounting
belt from the vehicle. capscrew. If necessary, tighten it 65 lbf·ft (88
N·m).
capscrews. Remove the alternator from the ve- 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
hicle. two alternator mounting capscrews (top and bot-
tion 01.07, Subject 180. 3. Install the alternator drive belt on the pulleys. If
installing a new pulley or a new alternator,
tighten the pulley nut 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m). For belt

DDC 55

matically adjusts the alternator drive belt to the
correct tension. If the belt slips, repair or replace
the tensioner. For instructions, see the engine
4. Tighten both alternator mounting capscrews 65
lbf·ft (88 N·m).

the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

ing, 300.

Voltage Regulator Adjustment
Adjustment 0.4 volt. Moving the strap to the C and B

(high) position would increase the voltage
NOTE: Before checking or adjusting the alterna- 0.4 volt.
tor voltage, check the wiring, connections, and 3.4 Install the regulator and connect the di-
belt tension. ode trio lead. Connect the battery.
1. Turn off all accessories. Run the engine at fast
idle (approximately 1200 RPM) and charge the
batteries.
2. Connect an accurate voltmeter across the batter-
ies to determine the charging voltage.
3. If the charging voltage needs adjusting, reposi-
tion the adjustment strap.
3.1 Shut down the engine. Disconnect the
battery ground cable.
3.2 Disconnect the diode trio lead. Remove
the four screws from the regulator cover,
then lift the regulator off the alternator far
enough to expose the voltage adjustment
strap.
3.3 If needed, move the adjustment strap to
any one of the three positions to adjust
the voltage. The three positions available
are: A and B (low), A and C (medium),
and C and B (high). See Fig. 1.
A B
04/21/95 f150120a
The adjustment strap can be set to the following
positions.
A and
LowB. C and
High
B.
A and
Medium
C.
1. Adjustment Strap
Fig. 1, Voltage Adjustment

NOTE: If the adjustment strap is in the A
and C (medium) position, changing it to the
A and B (low) position decreases the voltage

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Pre-Test Procedure (Engine Off)

1. Inspect the alternator connections to verify that
Many alternators have been replaced that later inves- all terminals are secured and tight. Verify that the
tigation reveals were working properly. This may be sense wire is connected to the sense terminal on
due to incorrectly diagnosing the problem. vehicles equipped with remote-sense alternators.
IMPORTANT: Before testing, make sure: 2. With the engine off, connect the red alligator clip
to the output terminal of the alternator. Connect
• All belts are correctly tightened; the black alligator clip to the alternator ground.
• The wiring and terminals are clean and in An optional ground connection is to the body of
good condition; the alternator. The tester LEDs will illuminate and
then go off as it performs a self-test.
• All terminal nuts are torqued and properly pro-
tected. 3. After 4 seconds the tester will activate. The fol-
To troubleshoot the SmartChek™ diagnostic alterna- lowing LEDs may illuminate depending on the
tor perform the following steps: condition of the batteries:
• GOOD (green) LED indicates the battery
1. With the engine off, clean the top of the regulator voltage is above 12.8 and has a surface
using a shop cloth until you can see the Smart- charge. The surface charge must be re-
Chek indicator. moved before proceeding with the alterna-
2. Start the engine. If the SmartChek indicator tor test. To remove the surface charge, do
glows red, replace the alternator. the following:
If the indicator glows green, go to the next step. A. Turn on the headlights and blower mo-
tor for 2 minutes without restarting the
3. Turn on several vehicle accessories, such as engine.
lights and heater fans. If the green indicator
changes to red, replace the alternator. B. Reset the tester by disconnecting, then
reconnecting the tester alligator clips.
If the indicator continues to glow green, the alter- The analyzer will again perform its
nator is OK. Check the other components of the self-test.
electrical system.
C. Repeat the applicable steps of the
Delco Remy has an alternator testing tool called the
Pre-Test Procedure.
Intelli-Check Alternator Analyzer. See Fig. 1. This
tool (DR 10457848, a single tester, or DR 10457865, • NO CHARGE (red) LED indicates the bat-
a four-pack of testers) is to be used as a quick check tery voltage is below 12.8. This LED
of the alternator to see if it is working correctly. should illuminate for most tests. Proceed
with the alternator test.
NOTE: If you do not have the Delco Intelli-
Check Tester, or if the alternator rated output is • LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue) LED
above 145 amps, or if a total vehicle charging indicates the battery voltage is below
12.35. If the batteries will start the vehicle,
system analysis is required, see "Alternator/
proceed with the alternator test. However,
Charging System Testing." after completing the Intelli-Check alternator
Intelli-Check Alternator Analyzer "Alternator/Charging System Testing" to
The following information includes a pre-test proce- determine the condition of the rest of the
dure and operating instructions for the Delco Intelli- charging system.
Check Tester, and is similar to the procedures pro-

Troubleshooting
09/10/99 f150983
Tester Operating Instructions system using the instructions in

"Alternator/Charging System Testing."
(Engine Running)
4. With the engine running, turn on all electrical
1. Start the engine using onboard batteries only. If loads.
the batteries will not start the engine, they must
be charged for 2 hours. Start the test again after 5. Depress the accelerator to governed speed, hold
charging the batteries. for 10 seconds, then return to idle.
2. Verify the engine is at idle and all electrical loads 6. If the GOOD (green) LED illuminates, the alter-
are off. nator is OK and the test is complete.
3. Depress the accelerator to governed speed, hold NOTE: If the alternator tests OK in the above
for 10 seconds, then return to idle. tests, and the customer’s complaint is reduced
• If the GOOD (green) LED illuminates, pro- battery or headlight life, see "Alternator/
ceed to the next step. Charging System Testing" to completely analyze
the charging system.
• If any LEDs illuminate indicating over-
charge, partial charge or no charge (the 7. If any LEDs illuminate indicating overcharge, par-
three red lights in the DEFECTIVE sec- tial charge or no charge (the three red lights in
tion), replace the alternator and run the the DEFECTIVE section), replace the alternator
complete test again. and run the complete test again.
• If the LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue)
LED illuminates, evaluate the charging

Troubleshooting
8. If the LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue) LED illu-

minates, evaluate the charging system using the 1
ing."
2
Alternator/Charging System Testing
A
Alternator Output Voltage Test and 3
1. Use a digital volt-ohmmeter (VOM) set on the B
2-20VDC (or similar) scale to test the battery
open circuit voltage (OCV). With the engine shut 6
G
Fig. 2, check for voltage of 12.4 volts or more. 5
hicle headlights for approximately 3 minutes. 4
If the OCV is less than 12.4 volts, charge the
batteries properly. For instructions, see 02/11/98 f150938
Group 54. A. Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches (15 cm)
away from the alternator.
IMPORTANT: Be sure to disconnect the batter- 1. Battery 4. Alternator
ies or remove them from the vehicle before 2. Ammeter 5. Cranking Motor
charging. 3. Digital Voltmeter 6. Solenoid
2. Check the alternator output without a load. See Fig. 3, Setup 2: Alternator Output Voltage
Fig. 3.
the voltmeter to the alternator negative
(–) ground terminal. See Fig. 3.
1 2
volts, record this reading (V1) and go to
02/26/97 f150607 output, replace the alternator.
1. Battery 3. Check the alternator output under load. See
Fig. 3.
Fig. 2, Setup 1: Battery Open Circuit Voltage (and 3.1 Attach a clamp-on induction ammeter
around the positive (+) wire. See Fig. 3.
2.1 Start the engine and run it at 1500 rpm NOTE: Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches
for 3 to 5 minutes to stabilize the system (15 cm) away from the alternator.
before proceeding to the next step.
3.2 With the engine still running at 1500 rpm,
2.2 Connect the positive (+) lead of the digital
voltmeter (still set on the 2-20VDC or
similar scale) to the alternator (battery)
ter reads 60 to 75 amps.
• Both front and rear heater blowers
(on HIGH)

Troubleshooting
• Headlights (high beams) corded is still less than 85 percent of the

• Road lights
nator.
• Interior lights
NOTE: As an alternate method of putting removed and that the vehicle wiring is
load on the alternator, connect a carbon pile returned to its operational state.
tester and set it to 60 to 75 amps. 5. To identify other problem areas within the ve-
3.3 Keep the voltmeter connected as in the hicle, check the operation of the charging sys-
previous step; positive (+) lead connected tem. Set up the voltmeter as shown in Fig. 2 and
to the alternator positive (+) terminal; Fig. 3.
negative (–) lead connected to the alter- NOTE: For any load at 1500 rpm or more,
3.4 If the voltmeter reads from 13.6 to 14.2 the alternator voltage.
the next step. 5.1 If readings at the batteries are within 0.5
If the voltmeter reads less than 13.6 volts, charging system is working correctly.
replace the alternator. Check other areas of the vehicle to locate
the problem.
4. Perform an alternator amperage output test.
4.1 Connect a carbon pile tester across the
vehicle batteries as shown in Fig. 2.
NOTE: Figure 2 shows a voltmeter, but the
connections for the carbon pile tester are the terminals.
same.
6.1 Check all connections between the bat-
4.2 Attach a clamp-on induction ammeter tery, starter and alternator for tightness
around the alternator output wire. See and signs of corrosion. Tighten and clean
Fig. 3. as necessary.
NOTE: Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches 6.2 Check all cables for breaks or partial
(15 cm) away from the alternator. breaks. Repair or replace as necessary.
4.3 Start the engine and make sure all ve- 6.3 Check each ring terminal for breakage at
hicle electrical accessories are turned off. the point where it attaches to its wire or
Run it at fast speed and adjust the tester cable.
highest value.
gine.

Specifications
See Fig. 1 for a Leece-Neville JB Series alternator

wiring diagram.
F
M B
16
G S
+ −
1 2
7 83
04/08/96 f541261
Fig. 1, Leece-Neville JB Series Alternator Wiring

Diagram


Adjusting Block Mounting Bolt 8 3/8 30 (41)

Specifications

Alternator Bracket Fasteners 10.9PO M10 34 (46)



Pulley Nut 8PO 1/2–20 75 (102)
Table 5, Pulley Nut Torque, All Engines

Alternator, Delco Remy 21–SI Series 15.04
General Information
General Description Since the vehicle’s system is a negative ground, the

output terminal connects to the starter’s positive ter-
The Delco Remy 21–SI series alternator (see Fig. 1) minal.
features a solid-state voltage regulator mounted in- On vehicles built on or after September 12, 1995, a
side the end frame. The only moving part is the rotor, low-speed start-up circuit supplies ignition power di-
which is mounted on a ball bearing at the drive end, rectly to the alternator "I" terminal. For a circuit dia-
and a roller bearing at the rectifier end. See Fig. 2.
6 8
7
5
4 9
3
10
1 11
11
A B
01/30/96 f150349a
A. Rectifier End B. Drive End
1. Rectifier Bridge 5. Frame, Rectifier End 9. Fan
2. Relay ("R") Terminal 6. Stator 10. Pulley
3. Output ("BAT") Terminal 7. Frame, Drive End 11. Mounting Lug
4. Indicator Light ("I") Terminal 8. Adjustment Lug
Fig. 1, Delco Remy 21-SI Alternator (exterior view)

All bearings are sealed so that no periodic mainte- gram, see Specifications, 400.
nance is required. The regulator and diodes are en-
closed in a sealed compartment. A fan located on the
drive end provides air flow for cooling.
As the rotor begins to turn, the permanent magne-
tism within it induces voltages in the stator windings.
The voltages across the diodes cause current to flow,
charging the battery.
Normally only one wire connects the alternator to the
battery at the starter, along with a ground return.

15.04 Alternator, Delco Remy 21–SI Series
General Information
4
6
07/20/94 f150350a
1. Rotor 4. Regulator
2. Roller Bearings 5. Field Windings
3. Brushes 6. Ball Bearings
Fig. 2, Delco Remy 21-SI Alternator (cutaway view)

21–SI Alternator Removal and Installation, Cummins
N14/NTC
from the alternator. 2. Install the alternator on the engine with the end
(see Fig. 1, Ref. 8).
5 7
4 6
8
1
2 2
9
3 3
05/23/2005 f150410c
1. 21–SI Alternator 6. Adjusting Nut

5. End Link

4. Loosen the end link capscrew and the alternator 3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or
mounting capscrew (see Fig. 1, Refs. 2 and 3). twist the belt over the pulley.
Turn the adjusting nut (Ref. 6) counterclockwise,
backing the alternator toward the drive pulley far
enough to remove the drive belt without prying or
twisting the belt. Remove the drive belt from the
vehicle.
5. Remove the adjusting rod jam nut (Ref. 4) and (210 N·m).
6. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec- Tighten the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 50
tion 01.07, Subject 180. lbf·ft (68 N·m).

N14/NTC
6. Connect all electrical leads to the back of the

alternator as removed. Tighten the output termi-
nal nut and ground terminal nut 100 lbf·in (1140
N·cm). Tighten the "I" and/or "R" terminal nut(s)
20 lbf·in (220 N·cm), as necessary.
Protectant Material Approved Brand

Dielectric Red Enamel
Red Electric Grade (Spray-On
Spray
B–6–665)

shooting, 300.

M11/L10
from the alternator. 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
3. Loosen the adjusting block mounting bolt, adjust-
ing arm mounting capscrew, and alternator
mounting capscrew just enough to allow move- 3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or
ment of the alternator. See Fig. 1. twist the belt over the pulley.
6 8
2 5 4
1
7
05/17/96 f150557a
1. 21–SI Alternator 6. Adjusting Block Mounting Bolt

5. Adjusting Block

4. Loosen the adjusting screw locknut. See Fig. 1, 4. Turn the adjusting screw (see Fig. 1, Ref. 7)
Ref. 4. Turn the adjusting screw (Ref. 7) counterclockwise until the belt is correctly tensioned. For
clockwise, backing off the alternator toward the belt tightening specifications, see Sec-
drive pulley far enough to remove the drive belt tion 01.07, Subject 110. Tighten the adjusting
without prying or twisting the belt. Remove the screw locknut (Ref. 4) 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m).
drive belt from the vehicle.
5. Remove the adjusting block nut and the alterna- Fig. 1, Ref. 3) 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m); tighten the ad-
tor mounting capscrew. Remove the alternator justing block mounting bolt (Ref. 6) 35 lbf·ft (47
from the vehicle. N·m); tighten the adjusting arm mounting cap-

M11/L10


Spray
B–6–665)

shooting, 300.

21–SI Alternator Removal and Installation, Caterpillar
3306
Removal 10

4. Back off the adjusting nut (see Fig. 1, Ref. 6) on A
hicle. 5 67
2
Installation
1
3 11
twist the belt over the pulley. B

ject 120. While holding the adjusting nut in 11/05/96 f150527
place, tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 95 lbf·ft A. With Refrigerant Compressor
(130 N·m). B. Without Refrigerant Compressor
1. 21–SI Alternator 7. Adjusting Rod
ternator mounting capscrew, and the adjusting Capscrew Mounting Capscrew
rod mounting capscrew 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m). 3. Alternator Mounting 9. Alternator Bracket
6. Connect all electrical leads to the back of the Capscrew Fasteners
Nut Compressor
nal nut and ground terminal nut 100 lbf·in (1140 5. End Link 11. Fan Drive
N·cm). Tighten the "I" and/or "R" terminal nut(s) 6. Adjusting Nut

3306

Spray
B–6–665)

shooting, 300.

3406
Removal 4 7
5

NOTE: Three different installations are possible.
For vehicles with a piston-type refrigerant com-
3
Fig. 3.
3. Back off the adjusting nut (Ref. 6, all figures).
Loosen the end link mounting capscrew and the 9
02/15/96 f011044
alternator mounting capscrew enough to allow
movement of the alternator. 1. 21–SI Alternator
5. End Link
8 6. Adjusting Nut
10
4 5 6 7. Adjusting Rod
7
1 Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3406 Engine
4. Push the loosened alternator far enough toward

the fan drive pulley to allow removal of the drive
3 leys and work it over one fan blade at a time.
Remove both drive belts from the vehicle.
9
hicle.
06/13/96 f150558
7. Inspect the drive belts and pulleys. For instruc-
1. 21–SI Alternator tions, see Section 01.07, Subject 180.
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut Installation
5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut 1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten-
7. Adjusting Rod ers. If necessary, tighten them 34 lbf·ft (46 N·m).
9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
10. Refrigerant Compressor end link mounting capscrew and the alternator

3406

4
2 Dielectric Red Enamel
6 Red Electric Grade (Spray-On
Spray
7 B–6–665)
1
8 Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel

3 see "Alternator Voltage Output Test" in Trouble-
shooting, 300.
9
11/05/96 f011047
1. 21–SI Alternator
5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod


ing force.
a time. Install the dual drive belts on the pulleys
without prying or rolling them into place. For belt
N·m).
6. Tighten both the end link and the alternator
mounting capscrew 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m).

3176/C–10
Removal
8
1
and rotate the tensioner down and off the alter-
3
2 7
4 9
8
6
1
5
10/16/95 f150556
4. Fan Pulley
6 5. Vibration Damper
7. Adjusting Strap
9. Belt Tensioner
04/03/96 f150563 Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3176 Engine,

Rotate the belt tensioner down and off the belt. Fixed Strap
1. 21–SI Alternator 4. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove the
2. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Top drive belt from the alternator pulley. Slowly re-
4. Fan Pulley
lease the belt tensioner and remove the breaker
5. Vibration Damper bar.
6. Alternator Drive Belt 5. Lower the drive belt, and take it off the vibration
7. Adjusting Strap damper. It is not necessary to remove the belt
9. Belt Tensioner
from the vehicle.
6. Remove both alternator mounting capscrews.
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3176/C-10 Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
Engine, Slotted Strap
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the adjust-
NOTE: There is only one drive belt to remove. It ing strap from the engine.
is not necessary to remove the refrigerant com-
pressor belt from its pulleys. 7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-

3176/C–10
Installation 5. When the alternator is correctly positioned,

lbf·ft (92 N·m).
capscrew. If necessary, tighten it 60 lbf·ft (81 6. Connect all electrical leads to the back of the
N·m). alternator as removed. Tighten the output termi-
top and bottom alternator mounting capscrews, 7. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
but do not tighten them yet. electric red enamel. See Table 1.
3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. For belt tight-
ening procedures and specifications, see Sec- Protectant Material Approved Brand
tion 01.07, Subject 130. MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
4. On slotted straps, verify that the edge of the ten- Spray
B–6–665)
See Fig. 3. If within the red zone, pivot the alter- Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
green zone. 8. Connect the batteries.
shooting, 300.
2
2
1
A B
02/28/96 f011048

1. Decal

or C–10 Truck Engine Service Manual.

21–SI Alternator Removal and Installation, DDC 50
Removal rolling or prying the belt. Remove the drive belt

from the vehicle, working the belt over one fan
1. Disconnect the batteries. blade at a time.
2. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them 6. Remove the alternator and adjusting rod mount-
from the alternator. ing capscrews. Remove the alternator from the
vehicle.
Fig. 1 Ref. 2), the adjusting rod mounting cap- 7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-
screw (Ref. 8), and the alternator mounting cap- tion 01.07, Subject 180.
screw (Ref. 3).
Installation
4 ers. If necessary, tighten them 43-54 lbf·ft (58-73
5 N·m).
6
yet.
twist the belt over the pulley.
1 4. Loosen the adjusting rod jam nut (see Fig. 1,
3
9 5. Tighten the alternator mounting capscrew and

11/05/96 f011042 the adjusting rod capscrew 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m).
1. 21–SI Alternator 6. Tighten the end link mounting capscrew 45 lbf·ft
2. End Link Mounting Capscrew (61 N·m).
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut 7. Connect all electrical leads to the back of the
5. End Link alternator as removed. Tighten the output termi-
6. Adjusting Nut nal nut and ground terminal nut 100 lbf·in (1140
7. Adjusting Rod N·cm). Tighten the "I" and/or "R" terminal nut(s)
8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm), as necessary.
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 50 electric red enamel. See Table 1.
4. Turn the adjusting rod jam nut (see Fig. 1, Ref.
4) to rotate the alternator up and toward the en- Protectant Material Approved Brand
gine. Back off the adjusting nut as needed. Make MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
sure the distance between the pulley centers is Dielectric Red Enamel
Spray
now short enough to allow belt removal without B–6–665)
using force. Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
5. When the alternator is close enough to the en-
gine, slip the drive belt off the pulleys without 9. Connect the batteries.


shooting, 300.

Removal the fan drive pulley to allow removal of the drive

belt without using force.
1. Disconnect the batteries. 5. Remove the drive belt from the pulleys without
prying or twisting the belt.
from the alternator. 6. Remove the end link mounting capscrew and the
NOTE: Three different installations are possible. nator from the vehicle.
mounted refrigerant compressor), see Fig. 1. 7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-
For DDEC II vehicles with air conditioning (side- tion 01.07, Subject 180.
For vehicles with no air conditioning, see Fig. 3. 4 5
6
3. Loosen the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 2
(Ref. 8, all figures), the end link mounting cap- 1
screw (Ref. 2), and the alternator mounting cap- 7
screw (Ref. 3). Loosen these three mounting
8
capscrews enough to allow movement of the al- 9
ternator. 3
7 8
6
5
4
1
11/05/96 f011043
3 1. 21–SI Alternator
07/26/96 f150561 4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut
1. 21–SI Alternator 5. End Link
2. End Link Mounting Capscrew 6. Adjusting Nut
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew 7. Adjusting Rod
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut 8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew
5. End Link 9. Refrigerant Compressor
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod
Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, DDEC II with Air
Conditioning
Installation
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, DDEC III with Air
Conditioning 1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten-
4. Back off the adjusting nut (see Fig. 1, Ref. 6).
Push the loosened alternator far enough toward


4 5 alternator as removed. Tighten the output termi-
6 nal nut and ground terminal nut 100 lbf·in (1140
2
1 N·cm). Tighten the "I" and/or "R" terminal nut(s)
7 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm), as necessary.

3
Spray
B–6–665)

shooting, 300.
11/05/96 f011046
5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod


or rolling it into place. For belt tightening proce-
dures and specifications, see Sec-
N·m).
lbf·ft (46 N·m).

Removal 4. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove the al-

ternator belt from the alternator pulley. Slowly
release the belt tensioner and remove the
breaker bar.
5. Lower the belt, and take it off the vibration
damper. Raise the belt, and take it off over the
3. Insert a breaker bar in the alternator belt ten- fan. Remove the alternator drive belt from the
sioner (see Fig. 1, Ref. 4) and rotate the ten- vehicle.
sioner down and off the alternator drive belt.
5 capscrews. If necessary to remove the alternator
from the vehicle, loosen the adjusting strap
mounting capscrew. It is not necessary to re-
move the adjusting strap.
6
8 Installation
2 1. Check the torque of the adjusting strap mounting
capscrew. If necessary, tighten it 68 lbf·ft (92
7
N·m).
1 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
9 two alternator mounting capscrews (top and bot-
3 tom), but do not tighten them yet.
4 3. Install the alternator belt on the pulleys. For belt
matically adjusts the alternator belt to the cor-
rect tension. If the belt slips, repair or replace
the tensioner. For instructions, see the engine
12/15/95 f150559 manufacturer’s service literature.
Rotate the belt tensioner down and off the belt. 4. Tighten both alternator mounting capscrews 68
1. 21–SI Alternator lbf·ft (92 N·m).
2. Altenator Mounting Capscrew, Top
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Bottom 5. Connect all electrical leads to the back of the
4. Alternator Belt Tensioner alternator as removed. Tighten the output termi-
5. Fan Pulley nal nut and ground terminal nut 100 lbf·in (1140
6. Alternator Drive Belt N·cm). Tighten the "I" and/or "R" terminal nut(s)
7. Alternator Adjusting Strap 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm), as necessary.
8. Alternator Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew
9. Vibration Damper 6. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
Engine
NOTE: There is only one drive belt to remove. It

is not necessary to remove the fan belt or the
refrigerant compressor belt.


Spray
B–6–665)

shooting, 300.

Troubleshooting

the following:
engine.

Troubleshooting
09/10/99 f150983

loads.
Group 54.

Troubleshooting
1. Battery Fig. 3.
(on HIGH)
• Road lights
6
G
5
02/11/98 f150938

Troubleshooting
as necessary.
cable.
highest value.
gine.
nator.
Fig. 3.
the problem.
terminals.

Specifications
See Fig. 1 for a Delco Remy 21–SI alternator wiring

diagram. 137
See Fig. 2 for a diagram of the low-speed start-up 2
M42
circuit. F8
F25
1
A
137
F 18 71
M B 81C
16 IGN SUPPLIED
CIR BRKR
3
G S (ELEC MTG PLATE)
+ −
1 2
137
B
7 83
04/08/96 f541261 02/15/96 f541187

1. Starter 2. Alternator A. From the Ignition B. To the Alternator "I"
Keyswitch Terminal
Fig. 1, Delco Remy 21-SI Alternator Wiring Diagram 1. 10-Amp Ignition-Controlled C/B
2. Main Cab Harness
3. Engine Harness
Fig. 2, 21-SI Alternator Low-Speed Start-Up Circuit



Specifications

Adjusting Block Mounting Nut 5 1/2 35 (47)

Alternator Bracket Fasteners 10.9PO M10 43-54 (58-73)

Alternator Output ("BAT") Terminal Nut 8.8 M6 100-110 (1140-1240)
Ground ("G") Terminal Nut 8.8 M6 100-110 (1140-1240)
Indicator Light ("I") or Relay ("R") Terminal Nut 8.8 M4 20 (220)

Alternator, Leece-Neville 110 Series 15.05
General Information
General Information
1
2
The Leece-Neville 110 series alternator (see Fig. 1)
is a self-exciting charging system. Alternating current 3
(AC) is produced by a rotating electromagnetic field
(rotor) inside a three-phase stator. The AC energy is A
changed to direct current (DC) by passing through a
three-phase full wave rectifier using six rectifier di- 4
odes.
6 5
08/06/96 f150577
2
1 3 A. To Battery
1. Positive Diode Assy. 5. Regulator
2. Negative Diode Assy. 6. Stator Tap
3. Rotor Winding 7. Relay
4 4. Stator
Fig. 2, Wiring Diagram, Negative Ground Circuit
08/06/96 f150578
1. Negative Output (G) Terminal
2. Voltage Regulator Adjustment Pot
3. Positive Output (BAT) Terminal
4. Stator Taps
Fig. 1, Leece-Neville 110 Series Alternator

An externally-mounted bidirectional fan provides air-
flow for cooling. Air must be pulled through the rear
of the alternator and expelled through the front hous-
ing.
The alternator does not require an isolation or field
diode (diode trio). As the alternator shaft turns, the
small signal developed at the stator tap activates the
voltage regulator, allowing normal regulation of sys-
tem voltage. See Fig. 2.
The optional SmartChek™ models feature a light-
emitting diode (LED) that changes color to simplify
troubleshooting. When the LED is green, the alterna-
tor is OK. When the LED is red, the alternator needs
replacing.

110 Series Alternator Removal and Installation,
Cummins N14/NTC
Removal 4. Loosen the end link mounting capscrew and the

alternator mounting capscrew. Turn the adjusting
nut counterclockwise, backing the alternator to-
ward the drive pulley far enough to remove the
2. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them drive belt without prying or twisting the belt. Re-
from the alternator. move the belt from the vehicle.
3. Loosen the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 5. Remove the adjusting rod jam nut and alternator
(see Fig. 1). mounting capscrew. Remove the alternator from
the vehicle with the end link attached.
1
2 tion 01.07, Subject 180.
Installation
9
3 link attached. Install the alternator mounting cap-
9 screw, but do not tighten it yet.
5 6 3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. Do not pry or
4
7 twist the belt over the pulley. If installing a new
2 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
8
4. Tighten the adjusting nut until the belt is correctly
tensioned. For belt tightening specifications, see
1 Section 01.07, Subject 100. While holding the
adjusting nut in place, install the adjusting rod
jam nut and tighten it 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m).
3 5. Tighten the end link mounting capscrew and the
lbf·ft (68 N·m).
07/16/96 f150576 nut 100 lbf·in (1140 N·cm). Tighten the ground
1. 110 Series Alternator terminal nut 65 lbf·in (740 N·cm). For other termi-
2. End Link Mounting Capscrew nals, tighten the nut 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm).
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut 7. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
5. End Link electric red enamel. See Table 1.
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod Protectant Material Approved Brands
9. Alternator Bracket Capscrew MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Cummins N14/NTC the PDC
Engine

15.05 Alternator, Leece-Neville 110 Series
Cummins N14/NTC

or 1-800-GLP-1201

ing, 300.

Cummins M11/L10
Removal
3. Loosen the adjusting rod mounting capscrew just
enough to allow movement of the alternator. See
Fig. 1.
4. Loosen the end link mounting capscrew and the
alternator mounting capscrew. Turn the adjusting
nut counterclockwise, backing off the alternator 4
toward the drive pulley far enough to remove the 2 5
drive belt without prying or twisting the belt. Re- 1 6
move the belt from the vehicle. 7
5. Remove the adjusting rod jam nut and the alter- 8
nator mounting capscrew. Remove the alternator
from the vehicle with the end link attached.
Installation
1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten- 3 9
10
link attached. Install the adjusting rod mounting
capscrew and the alternator mounting capscrew,
but do not tighten them yet.
07/30/96 f150586
pulley or a new alternator, tighten the pulley nut 1. 110 Series Alternator
75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
4. Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the belt is 4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut
correctly tensioned. For belt tightening specifica- 5. End Link
tions, see Section 01.07, Subject 110. Tighten 6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod
the adjusting rod jam nut 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m).
5. Tighten the end link mounting capscrew and the 9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners
alternator mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m); 10. Drive Belt
tighten the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 50 Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Cummins M11/L10 Engine
lbf·ft (68 N·m).
6. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as 7. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-

Cummins M11/L10

the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

ing, 300.

Caterpillar 3306
Removal 10

screws (see Fig. 1) and the adjusting rod mount-
ing capscrew.
4. Back off the adjusting nut on the adjusting rod, A
allowing the alternator to be moved far enough
toward the drive pulley to remove the fan drive
belt without prying or twisting the belt. Remove
the drive belt from the vehicle.
hicle. 5 67
2
Installation
1
3 11
twist the belt over the pulley. If installing a new B
75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
4. Loosen the adjusting rod jam nut. Then, tighten
the adjusting nut until the belt is correctly ten-
sioned. For belt tightening specifications, see 11/05/96 f150527
Section 01.07, Subject 120. While holding the A. With Refrigerant Compressor
adjusting nut in place, tighten the adjusting rod B. Without Refrigerant Compressor
jam nut 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m). 1. 110 Series Alternator 7. Adjusting Rod
5. Tighten the end link mounting capscrew, the al- Capscrew Mounting Capscrew
ternator mounting capscrew, and the adjusting 3. Alternator Mounting 9. Alternator Bracket
rod mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m). Capscrew Fasteners
Nut Compressor
previously marked. Tighten the output terminal 5. End Link 11. Fan Drive
nut 100 lbf·in (1140 N·cm). Tighten the ground 6. Adjusting Nut
nals, tighten the nut 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm). Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3306 Engine

Caterpillar 3306


the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

shooting, 300.

Caterpillar 3406
Removal 4 7
5

NOTE: Three different installations are possible.
For vehicles with a piston-type refrigerant com-
3
Fig. 3.
3. Back off the adjusting nut. Loosen the end link
mounting capscrew and the alternator mounting 9
02/15/96 f011044
capscrew enough to allow movement of the alter-
nator. 1. 110 Series Alternator
8 4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut
10 5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut
4 567 7. Adjusting Rod
2 8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew

leys and work it over one fan blade at a time.
3 Remove both drive belts from the vehicle.
04/08/96
9 f011045
hicle.
1. 110 Series Alternator 7. Inspect the drive belts. For instructions, see Sec-
2. End Link Mounting Capscrew tion 01.07, Subject 180.
5. End Link Installation
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod 1. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten-
8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew ers. Tighten the fasteners 34 lbf·ft (46 N·m).
10. Refrigerant Compressor 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3406 Engine mounting capscrew, but do not tighten them yet.
4. Push the loosened alternator far enough toward short enough to allow belt installation without us-
the fan drive pulley to allow removal of the drive ing force.

Caterpillar 3406

4
2 6 Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
7 the PDC
1
8 Glyptal 1201EW– Low VOC,
or 1-800-GLP-1201

9 ing, 300.
11/05/96 f011047
1. 110 Series Alternator

5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod

a time. Install both drive belts on the pulleys
without prying or rolling them into place. If install-
ing a new pulley or a new alternator, tighten the
pulley nut 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m). For belt tightening
procedures and specifications, see Sec-
N·m).
6. Tighten both the end link and alternator mounting
capscrews 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m).

Caterpillar 3176/C–10/C–12
Removal

1
and rotate the tensioner down and off the alter- 5
3
2 7
4 9
8
10
1
5 6
06/06/96 f150571
4. Fan Pulley
5. Refrigerant Compressor Drive Belt
10
6. Vibration Damper
7. Alternator Adjusting Strap
9. Belt Tensioner
06/06/96 f150572
Rotate the belt tensioner down and off the belt. Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3176 Engine,
Fixed Strap
2. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Top 4. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove each
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Bottom drive belt from its pulley. Slowly release the belt
4. Fan Pulley
5. Refrigerant Compressor Drive Belt
tensioner and remove the breaker bar.
6. Vibration Damper 5. Lower each drive belt, and take it off the vibra-
7. Alternator Adjusting Strap tion damper. It is not necessary to remove either
8. Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew belt from the vehicle.
9. Belt Tensioner
10. Alternator Drive Belt 6. Remove both alternator mounting capscrews.
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar 3176/C-10/C-12
Engine, Slotted Strap NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the adjust-
ing strap from the engine.
fore removing the alternator belt, it is necessary 7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-
to remove the refrigerant compressor belt from tion 01.07, Subject 180.
its pulleys.

Caterpillar 3176/C–10/C–12
Installation 9. Before returning the vehicle to operation, test the

ing, 300.
capscrew. If necessary, tighten it 65 lbf·ft (88
N·m).
top and bottom alternator mounting capscrews,
but do not tighten them yet.
3. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. If installing a
new pulley or a new alternator, tighten the pulley
nut 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m). For belt tightening proce-
dures and specifications, see Sec- 2
1
4. On slotted straps, verify that the edge of the ten-
3
See Fig. 3. If within the red zone, pivot the alter-
green zone.
sioner. For instructions, see the Caterpillar 3176 A B
02/28/96 f011048
or C–10/C–12 Diesel Truck Engine Service
Manual. A. Belt Off, No Tension
5. When the alternator is correctly positioned, 1. Decal
tighten both alternator mounting capscrews 65 2. Edge of Tensioner Arm
lbf·ft (88 N·m). 3. Green Zone (operating range)
6. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as Fig. 3, Belt Tensioner With Decal

the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

DDC 50
Removal from the vehicle, working the belt over one fan
blade at a time.
1. Disconnect the batteries. 6. Remove the alternator and adjusting rod mount-
2. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them ing capscrews. Remove the alternator from the
from the alternator. vehicle.
3. Loosen the end link mounting capscrew, the ad- 7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec-
justing rod mounting capscrew, and the alternator tion 01.07, Subject 180.
mounting capscrew. See Fig. 1.
Installation
4 ers. If necessary, tighten them 43 to 54 lbf·ft (58
5 to 73 N·m).
6
yet.
1
75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
4. Loosen the adjusting rod jam nut. Then, tighten
the adjusting nut until the belt is at the correct
tension. For belt tightening specifications, see
3
Section 01.07, Subject 160. While holding the
adjusting nut in place, tighten the adjusting rod
jam nut 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m).
9
11/05/96 f011042 5. Tighten the alternator mounting capscrew and
1. 110 Series Alternator the end link mounting capscrew 65 lbf·ft (88
2. End Link Mounting Capscrew N·m).
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew 6. Tighten the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 45
5. End Link
lbf·ft (61 N·m).
6. Adjusting Nut 7. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as
7. Adjusting Rod previously marked. Tighten the output terminal
8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew nut 100 lbf·in (1140 N·cm). Tighten the ground
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 50 nals, tighten the nut 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm).
4. Back off the adjusting nut. Turn the adjusting rod 8. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
jam nut to rotate the alternator up and toward the electric red enamel. See Table 1.
engine. Make sure the distance between the pul-
ley centers is now short enough to allow belt re- Protectant Material Approved Brands
moval without using force. MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
5. When the alternator is close enough to the en- the PDC
gine, slip the drive belt off the pulleys without
rolling or prying the belt. Remove the drive belt

DDC 50

or 1-800-GLP-1201

shooting, 300.

DDC 60
Removal 4 5
6
1
8
NOTE: Three different installations are possible. 9
3
For DDEC II vehicles with air conditioning (side-
For vehicles with no air conditioning, see Fig. 3.
3. Loosen the adjusting rod mounting capscrew, the
end link mounting capscrew, and the alternator
mounting capscrew. Loosen these mounting cap-
screws enough to allow movement of the alterna-
tor.
7 8 11/05/96 f011043
6
5 1. 110 Series Alternator
4 2. End Link Mounting Capscrew
5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut
7. Adjusting Rod
2 8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew
1
Fig. 2, Alternator Installation, DDEC II with Air
3 Conditioning
4. Back off the adjusting nut. Push the loosened

alternator far enough toward the fan drive pulley
07/26/96 f150561
to allow removal of the drive belts without using
1. 110 Series Alternator force.
3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew 5. Remove the drive belt from the pulleys without
4. Adjusting Rod Jam Nut prying or twisting the belt.
5. End Link
6. Adjusting Nut 6. Remove the end link mounting capscrew and the
7. Adjusting Rod alternator mounting capscrew. Remove the alter-
8. Adjusting Rod Mounting Capscrew nator from the vehicle.
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 60 tion 01.07, Subject 180.
Engine, DDEC III with Air Conditioning

DDC 60

4 5 tighten the adjusting rod jam nut 95 lbf·ft (130
6 N·m).
2
1 6. Tighten the end link mounting capscrew and the
7
8 Tighten the adjusting rod mounting capscrew 50
lbf·ft (68 N·m).
3

the PDC
11/05/96 f011046 Brush-On Application Red; order at www.glyptal.com
or 1-800-GLP-1201
2. End Link Mounting Capscrew Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
5. End Link 9. Connect the batteries.
6. Adjusting Nut 10. Before returning the vehicle to operation, test the
7. Adjusting Rod alternator DC output voltage. For instructions,
Fig. 3, Alternator Installation, All Detroit Diesel Series ing, 300.
Installation
or rolling it into place. If installing a new pulley or
a new alternator, tighten the pulley nut 75 lbf·ft
(102 N·m). For belt tightening procedures and

DDC 55
Removal 10
5
3. Insert a breaker bar in the alternator belt ten- 6
sioner (see Fig. 1) and rotate the tensioner down
and off the alternator drive belt. 8
4. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove the al- 2

ternator drive belt from the alternator pulley. 7
Slowly release the belt tensioner and remove the
breaker bar. 1
9
3
tion damper. It is not necessary to remove either
4
capscrews. Remove the alternator from the ve-
hicle.

1. Check the torque of the adjusting strap mounting NOTE: Fan pulley cut away and fan drive belt removed
capscrew. If necessary, tighten it 65 lbf·ft (88 to show water pump pulley and alternator drive belt
N·m). more clearly.
2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the 1 110 Series Alternator
two alternator mounting capscrews (top and bot- 2. Altenator Mounting Capscrew, Top
4. Alternator Belt Tensioner
3. Install the alternator drive belt on the pulleys. If 5. Refrigerant Compressor Drive Belt
installing a new pulley or a new alternator, 6. Alternator Drive Belt
tighten the pulley nut 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m). For belt 7. Alternator Adjusting Strap
8. Alternator Adjusting Strap Mounting Capscrew
9. Vibration Damper
Section 01.07, Subject 170. 10. Fan Pulley
NOTE: The Detroit Diesel belt tensioner auto- 11. Water Pump Pulley
matically adjusts the drive belt to the correct Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 55
tension. If the belt slips, repair or replace the Engine
tensioner. For instructions, see the engine
manufacturer’s service literature. terminal nut 65 lbf·in (740 N·cm). For other termi-
4. Tighten both alternator mounting capscrews 65
lbf·ft (88 N·m).

DDC 55

the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

ing, 300.

Voltage Regulator Adjustment
Adjustment
NOTE: Before checking or adjusting the alterna-
tor voltage, check the wiring, connections, and
belt tension.
1. Turn off all accessories. Run the engine at fast
idle (approximately 1200 RPM) and charge the
batteries.
2. Connect an accurate voltmeter across the batter-
ies to determine the charging voltage. If the
charging voltage is less than 14.0 volts or more
than 14.8 volts, adjust the voltage regulator.
NOTE: Do not attempt to adjust the voltage
regulator until the engine is at operating tem-
perature. The voltage regulator has temperature
compensating circuitry that increases the volt-
age slightly in cold weather and decreases it
slightly in warm weather.
3. Using a small screwdriver, turn the voltage ad-
justment pot (potentiometer) up or down until the
voltmeter reading is in the required range. See
Fig. 1.
2
1 3
08/06/96 f150578
1. Negative Output (G) Terminal
2. Voltage Regulator Adjustment Pot
3. Positive Output (BAT) Terminal
4. Stator Taps
Fig. 1, Voltage Regulator Adjustment

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Pre-Test Procedure (Engine Off)

1. Inspect the alternator connections to verify that
Many alternators have been replaced that later inves- all terminals are secured and tight. Verify that the
tigation reveals were working properly. This may be sense wire is connected to the sense terminal on
due to incorrectly diagnosing the problem. vehicles equipped with remote-sense alternators.
IMPORTANT: Before testing, make sure: 2. With the engine off, connect the red alligator clip
to the output terminal of the alternator. Connect
• All belts are correctly tightened; the black alligator clip to the alternator ground.
• The wiring and terminals are clean and in An optional ground connection is to the body of
good condition; the alternator. The tester LEDs will illuminate and
then go off as it performs a self-test.
• All terminal nuts are torqued and properly pro-
tected. 3. After 4 seconds the tester will activate. The fol-
To troubleshoot the SmartChek™ diagnostic alterna- lowing LEDs may illuminate depending on the
tor perform the following steps: condition of the batteries:
• GOOD (green) LED indicates the battery
1. With the engine off, clean the top of the regulator voltage is above 12.8 and has a surface
using a shop cloth until you can see the Smart- charge. The surface charge must be re-
Chek indicator. moved before proceeding with the alterna-
2. Start the engine. If the SmartChek indicator tor test. To remove the surface charge, do
glows red, replace the alternator. the following:
If the indicator glows green, go to the next step. A. Turn on the headlights and blower mo-
tor for 2 minutes without restarting the
3. Turn on several vehicle accessories, such as engine.
lights and heater fans. If the green indicator
changes to red, replace the alternator. B. Reset the tester by disconnecting, then
reconnecting the tester alligator clips.
If the indicator continues to glow green, the alter- The analyzer will again perform its
nator is OK. Check the other components of the self-test.
electrical system.
C. Repeat the applicable steps of the
Delco Remy has an alternator testing tool called the
Pre-Test Procedure.
Intelli-Check Alternator Analyzer. See Fig. 1. This
tool (DR 10457848, a single tester, or DR 10457865, • NO CHARGE (red) LED indicates the bat-
a four-pack of testers) is to be used as a quick check tery voltage is below 12.8. This LED
of the alternator to see if it is working correctly. should illuminate for most tests. Proceed
with the alternator test.
NOTE: If you do not have the Delco Intelli-
Check Tester, or if the alternator rated output is • LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue) LED
above 145 amps, or if a total vehicle charging indicates the battery voltage is below
12.35. If the batteries will start the vehicle,
system analysis is required, see "Alternator/
proceed with the alternator test. However,
Charging System Testing." after completing the Intelli-Check alternator
Intelli-Check Alternator Analyzer "Alternator/Charging System Testing" to
The following information includes a pre-test proce- determine the condition of the rest of the
dure and operating instructions for the Delco Intelli- charging system.
Check Tester, and is similar to the procedures pro-

Troubleshooting
09/10/99 f150983
Tester Operating Instructions system using the instructions in

"Alternator/Charging System Testing."
(Engine Running)
4. With the engine running, turn on all electrical
1. Start the engine using onboard batteries only. If loads.
the batteries will not start the engine, they must
be charged for 2 hours. Start the test again after 5. Depress the accelerator to governed speed, hold
charging the batteries. for 10 seconds, then return to idle.
2. Verify the engine is at idle and all electrical loads 6. If the GOOD (green) LED illuminates, the alter-
are off. nator is OK and the test is complete.
3. Depress the accelerator to governed speed, hold NOTE: If the alternator tests OK in the above
for 10 seconds, then return to idle. tests, and the customer’s complaint is reduced
• If the GOOD (green) LED illuminates, pro- battery or headlight life, see "Alternator/
ceed to the next step. Charging System Testing" to completely analyze
the charging system.
• If any LEDs illuminate indicating over-
charge, partial charge or no charge (the 7. If any LEDs illuminate indicating overcharge, par-
three red lights in the DEFECTIVE sec- tial charge or no charge (the three red lights in
tion), replace the alternator and run the the DEFECTIVE section), replace the alternator
complete test again. and run the complete test again.
• If the LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue)
LED illuminates, evaluate the charging

Troubleshooting
8. If the LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE (blue) LED illu-

minates, evaluate the charging system using the 1
ing."
2
Alternator/Charging System Testing
A
Alternator Output Voltage Test and 3
1. Use a digital volt-ohmmeter (VOM) set on the B
2-20VDC (or similar) scale to test the battery
open circuit voltage (OCV). With the engine shut 6
G
Fig. 2, check for voltage of 12.4 volts or more. 5
hicle headlights for approximately 3 minutes. 4
If the OCV is less than 12.4 volts, charge the
batteries properly. For instructions, see 02/11/98 f150938
Group 54. A. Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches (15 cm)
away from the alternator.
IMPORTANT: Be sure to disconnect the batter- 1. Battery 4. Alternator
ies or remove them from the vehicle before 2. Ammeter 5. Cranking Motor
charging. 3. Digital Voltmeter 6. Solenoid
2. Check the alternator output without a load. See Fig. 3, Setup 2: Alternator Output Voltage
Fig. 3.
the voltmeter to the alternator negative
(–) ground terminal. See Fig. 3.
1 2
02/26/97 f150607 output, replace the alternator.
1. Battery 3. Check the alternator output under load. See
Fig. 3.
Fig. 2, Setup 1: Battery Open Circuit Voltage (and 3.1 Attach a clamp-on induction ammeter
around the positive (+) wire. See Fig. 3.
2.1 Start the engine and run it at 1500 rpm NOTE: Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches
for 3 to 5 minutes to stabilize the system (15 cm) away from the alternator.
before proceeding to the next step.
3.2 With the engine still running at 1500 rpm,
2.2 Connect the positive (+) lead of the digital
voltmeter (still set on the 2-20VDC or
similar scale) to the alternator (battery)
ter reads 60 to 75 amps.
• Both front and rear heater blowers
(on HIGH)

Troubleshooting
• Headlights (high beams) corded is still less than 85 percent of the

• Road lights
nator.
• Interior lights
NOTE: As an alternate method of putting removed and that the vehicle wiring is
load on the alternator, connect a carbon pile returned to its operational state.
tester and set it to 60 to 75 amps. 5. To identify other problem areas within the ve-
3.3 Keep the voltmeter connected as in the hicle, check the operation of the charging sys-
previous step; positive (+) lead connected tem. Set up the voltmeter as shown in Fig. 2 and
to the alternator positive (+) terminal; Fig. 3.
negative (–) lead connected to the alter- NOTE: For any load at 1500 rpm or more,
3.4 If the voltmeter reads from 13.6 to 14.2 the alternator voltage.
the next step. 5.1 If readings at the batteries are within 0.5
If the voltmeter reads less than 13.6 volts, charging system is working correctly.
replace the alternator. Check other areas of the vehicle to locate
the problem.
4. Perform an alternator amperage output test.
4.1 Connect a carbon pile tester across the
vehicle batteries as shown in Fig. 2.
NOTE: Figure 2 shows a voltmeter, but the
connections for the carbon pile tester are the terminals.
same.
6.1 Check all connections between the bat-
4.2 Attach a clamp-on induction ammeter tery, starter and alternator for tightness
around the alternator output wire. See and signs of corrosion. Tighten and clean
Fig. 3. as necessary.
NOTE: Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches 6.2 Check all cables for breaks or partial
(15 cm) away from the alternator. breaks. Repair or replace as necessary.
4.3 Start the engine and make sure all ve- 6.3 Check each ring terminal for breakage at
hicle electrical accessories are turned off. the point where it attaches to its wire or
Run it at fast speed and adjust the tester cable.
highest value.
gine.

Specifications
See Fig. 1 for a Leece-Neville 110 Series alternator

wiring diagram.
F
M B
16
G S
+ −
1 2
7 83
04/08/96 f541261
Fig. 1, Leece-Neville 110 Series Alternator Wiring

Diagram

Caterpillar 3176/C–10/C–12 Engine


Specifications




Pulley Nut 8PO 1/2–20 75 (102)
Table 5, Pulley Nut Torque, All Engines

General Information
General Information start-up come from the ignition switch to the alterna-
tor terminal "I". In a three-wire system, rotor magne-
The Delco Remy 22–SI series alternator (see Fig. 1 tism is boosted at start-up by field current entering
and Fig. 2) features a solid-state voltage regulator through the #1 regulator terminal then flowing
mounted inside the end frame. The only moving part through the rotor windings.
is the rotor, which is mounted on a ball bearing at the Normally only one wire connects the alternator to the
drive end, and a roller bearing at the rectifier end. battery at the starter, along with a ground return.
See Fig. 3.
6 8
7
5
4 9
3
10
1 11
11
A B
01/30/96 f150349a
A. Rectifier End B. Drive End
1. Rectifier Bridge 5. Frame, Rectifier End 9. Fan
2. Relay ("R") Terminal 6. Stator 10. Pulley
3. Output ("BAT") Terminal 7. Frame, Drive End 11. Mounting Lug
4. Indicator Light ("I") Terminal 8. Adjustment Lug
Fig. 1, Delco Remy 22-SI Alternator (exterior view)

All bearings are sealed so that no periodic mainte- Since the vehicle’s system is a negative ground, the
nance is required. The regulator and diodes are en- output terminal connects to the starter’s positive ter-
closed in a sealed compartment. A fan located on the minal.
drive end provides air flow for cooling.
The Delco Remy 22-SI alternator is available in ei-
ther a one-wire, two-wire, or three-wire configuration.
These wire configurations refer to the minimum num-
ber of lead wire connections necessary for alternator
operation. In a one-wire system, the voltages at
start-up are generated by residual magnetism within
the rotor. In a two-wire system, the voltages at

General Information
1
1
8
9 5
4
7 10 6
6 3
5
4
3
11
2
2
12 1
1
03/06/2000 f150999
1. Quadramount Mounting System
2. Indicator Light ("I") Terminal 1
3. Ground Terminal
4. Output ("BAT") Terminal
5. Radial Brush Module
6. Relay ("R") Terminal
07/20/94 f150350a
7. Rectifier Bridge
8. Stator 1. Rotor
9. Fan 2. Roller Bearings
10. Pulley 3. Brushes
11. Frame, Drive End 4. Regulator
12. Frame, Rectifier End 5. Field Windings
6. Ball Bearings
Fig. 2, Delco Remy 22-SI Quadramount Alternator
Fig. 3, Delco Remy 22-SI Alternator (cutaway view)

Alternator Removal and Installation, DDC 50
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the 4
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the 5
6
rear tires.
2. Open the hood. 7
2
WARNING
8
Before disconnecting the batteries, read the in-
structions and Danger and Warning notices in
Section 54.02 of this workshop manual. Keep 1
sparks, flames, burning cigarettes, etc. away
from batteries. Batteries generate explosive
gases, which could cause a battery to explode,
causing serious personal injury, including blind- 3
ness.
9
4. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them 11/05/96 f011042
5. Remove the alternator drive belt. For instruc- 2. End Link Mounting Capscrew
tions, see Section 01.07. 3. Alternator Mounting Capscrew
6. Remove the alternator and adjusting rod mount- 5. End Link
ing capscrews. Remove the alternator from the 6. Adjusting Nut
vehicle. See Fig. 1. 7. Adjusting Rod
7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec- 9. Alternator Bracket Fasteners
Installation 6. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-

1. Install a new pulley, if applicable, and tighten the
shaft nut to 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m). Protectant Material Approved Brands
2. Check the torque of the alternator bracket fasten- MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
ers. If necessary, tighten, see Specifica- Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
tions 400. the PDC
alternator mounting capscrew and the adjusting or 1-800-GLP-1201
rod mounting capscrew, but do not tighten them
yet. Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
4. Install and tension the drive belt on the pulleys.

Do not pry or twist the belt over the pulley. For 7. Connect the batteries.
instructions, see Section 01.07. 8. Before returning the vehicle to operation, test the
5. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as alternator DC output voltage. For instructions,
previously marked and tighten. See Specifica- see "Alternator Voltage Output Test" or use the
tions 400. Delco Intelli-Check Alternator Analyzer (if avail-
able) in Troubleshooting, 300.

9. Close the hood.

10. Remove the tire chocks.

Removal
rear tires.
2. Open the hood. 2
WARNING
1 3
structions and Danger and Warning notices in 4
Section 54.02. Keep sparks, flames, burning ciga-
rettes, etc. away from batteries. Batteries gener-
ate explosive gases, which could cause a battery
to explode, causing serious personal injury, in- 5
cluding blindness.
5. Remove the serpentine belt. See Fig. 1.
5.1 Find the drive belt tensioner on the front 01/20/99 f011536
of the engine.
1. 22–SI Quadramount Alternator
5.2 Insert a 1/2-inch ratchet drive into the 2. Serpentine Belt
square hole in the belt tensioner. Turn the 3. Belt Tensioner
tensioner clockwise to relieve the belt ten- 4. Tensioner Mounting Bolt
sion. 5. Square Hole for Moving the Tensioner
5.3 Remove the belt. Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Detroit Diesel Series 60
6. Remove the alternator mounting capscrews. Re- 2.3 Position the belt on the alternator, release
move the alternator from the vehicle. the tensioner, and remove the rachet drive
from the tensioner.
tion 01.07, Subject 180. 3. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as
previously marked and tighten. See Specifica-
tions 400.
Installation
1. Position the alternator on the engine. Install the electric red enamel. See Table 1.
four mounting capscrews, and tighten 65 lbf·ft
(88 N·m). Protectant Material Approved Brands
2. Install the serpentine belt. See Fig. 1. MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
2.1 Position the drive belt over all the pulleys the PDC
except the alternator.
2.2 Insert a 1/2-inch rachet drive into the Brush-On Application Red; order at www.glyptal.com
square hole in the belt tensioner, and turn or 1-800-GLP-1201
the tensioner clockwise. Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel


see "Alternator Voltage Output Test" or use the
Delco Intelli-Check Alternator Analyzer (if avail-
7. Close the hood.

Alternator Removal and Installation, Caterpillar
Engines
Removal
parking brake. Shut down the engine. Chock the 7
4
rear tires. 8
2. Open the hood.
1
5
WARNING
Section 54.02 of this workshop manual. Keep
sparks, flames, burning cigarettes, etc. away 3
from batteries. Batteries generate explosive
gases, which could cause a battery to explode, 9
causing serious personal injury, including blind-
ness. 10

from the alternator. 06/06/96 f150572
5. Insert a 1/2-inch rachet drive into the square hole Rotate the belt tensioner down and away from the belt.
in the belt tensioner, and turn the tensioner down 1. 22–SI Alternator
and off the belt. See Fig. 1. 2. Alternator Mounting Capscrew, Top
NOTE: There are two drive belts to remove. Be- 4. Fan Pulley
fore removing the alternator belt, it is necessary 5. Refrigerant Compressor Drive Belt
to remove the refrigerant compressor belt from 6. Vibration Damper
the fan pulley. 7. Alternator Adjusting Strap
6. Holding the belt tensioner down, remove the 9. Belt Tensioner
drive belt from the alternator pulley. Slowly re- 10. Alternator Drive Belt
lease the belt tensioner and remove the breaker
Fig. 1, Alternator Installation, Caterpillar C-10/C-12
bar. Engine Mounting Shown
7. Lower the drive belt, and take it off the vibration
damper. It is not necessary to remove the belt Installation
from the vehicle.
8. Remove both alternator mounting capscrews.
ers. If necessary, tighten, see Specifica-
tions 400.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the adjust- 2. Install the alternator on the engine. Install the
ing strap from the engine. alternator at the inboard edge of the slot initially.
9. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec- Install the top and bottom alternator mounting
tion 01.07. capscrews, but do not tighten them yet.
3. Install the drive belts on the pulleys, as removed.
If installing a new pulley or a new alternator,
tighten the pulley nut 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m). For belt
Section 01.07.

Alternator Removal and Installation, Caterpillar
Engines
4. Verify that the edge of the tensioner arm is within Protectant Material Approved Brands
the green zone on the decal. See Fig. 2. If within
the red zone, pivot the alternator outboard until MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
the tensioner arm enters the green zone. Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

2 able) in Troubleshooting, 300.
2
1 9. Close the hood.
3
A B
02/28/96 f011048

1. Decal

sioner. For instructions, see the appropriate Cat-
erpillar Diesel Truck Engine Service Manual.
5. When the alternator is correctly positioned,
lbf·ft (88 N·m).

Alternator Removal and Installation, Cummins
Engines
Removal 1 3

rear tires.
2. Open the hood.
4
WARNING 5

Section 54.02. Keep sparks, flames, burning ciga-
rettes, etc. away from batteries. Batteries gener-
ate explosive gases, which could cause a battery
to explode, causing serious personal injury, in-
cluding blindness. 8
08/09/96 7 6 f150592
4. Mark all electrical leads and disconnect them 1. Pivot Capscrew
from the alternator. 2. Mounting Lug
5. Remove the drive belts and note the routing. For 3. Pivot Bracket
4. Washer
instructions, see Section 01.07. 5. Pivot Nut
6. Remove the alternator. See Fig. 1. 6. Alternator Link Fastener
7. Alternator Link
6.1 Remove the alternator mounting capscrew 8. Alternator Mounting Capscrew
(Ref. 8) from the link (Ref. 7).
Fig. 1, Mounting Hardware (Cummins engine mounting
6.2 Remove the nut and washer (Refs. 5 and shown)
4) from the pivot bolt (Ref. 1).
6.3 Securely hold the alternator to prevent it ers. If necessary, tighten, see Specifica-
from falling, and remove the pivot bolt. tions 400.
6.4 Remove the alternator from the vehicle. 4. Install the alternator mounting capscrew, and
7. Inspect the drive belt. For instructions, see Sec- tighten it 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m). Tighten the pivot nut
tion 01.07, Subject 180. 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m).
5. Install the drive belt on the pulley as removed.
Installation For instructions, see Section 01.07.
NOTE: The belt tensioner automatically adjusts
1. Install a new pulley, if applicable, and tighten the the drive belt to the correct tension. If the belt
shaft nut to 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
slips, repair or replace the tensioner. For in-
2. Install the alternator on the pivot bracket. See structions, see the engine manufacturer’s ser-
Fig. 1. vice literature.
2.1 Position the alternator on the bracket. 6. Connect all leads to the back of the alternator as
2.2 Insert the pivot bolt (Ref. 1) through the previously marked and tighten. See Specifica-
alternator and the bracket. tions 400.
2.3 Install the washer and nut (Refs. 4 and 5) 7. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
on the end of the pivot bolt. electric red enamel. See Table 1 for approved
brands.

Alternator Removal and Installation, Cummins
Engines

the PDC
or 1-800-GLP-1201

10. Close the hood.

Troubleshooting

the following:
engine.

Troubleshooting
09/10/99 f150983

loads.
Group 54.

Troubleshooting
1. Battery Fig. 3.
(on HIGH)
• Road lights
6
G
5
02/11/98 f150938

Troubleshooting
as necessary.
cable.
highest value.
gine.
nator.
Fig. 3.
the problem.
terminals.

Specifications

Adjusting Block Mounting Nut 5 1/2 35 (47)


Alternator Bracket Fasteners 10.9PO M10 43-54 (58-73)

Specifications

Terminal Fastener Torques, All Engines

Alternator Output ("BAT") Terminal Nut 8.8 M6 100-110 (1130-1240)
Ground ("G") Terminal Nut 8.8 M6 55-60 (620-670)
Indicator Light ("I") or Relay ("R") Terminal Nut 8.8 M4 20 (226)

Cooling System Troubleshooting 20.00
General Information
General Information CATERPILLAR 3406 COOLANT

PLUMBING (See Fig. 2)
Two types of radiators are used in Freightliner COEs
and FLD Conventionals: high-flow (traditional), and When the engine is cold, coolant flows from the tem-
low-flow. perature regulator to the water pump (Ref. 6), which
forces the coolant through the oil cooler (Ref. 7) and
High-flow and low-flow radiators are either single- into the engine block. From the block, it flows to the
pass vertical flow radiators with top and bottom cylinder head, then back to the temperature regulator
tanks, or single-pass cross flow radiators with end- (thermostat) housing (Ref. 4). As the engine warms,
tanks. the temperature regulator directs coolant to the radia-
tor. The regulator keeps the engine temperature in
NOTE: Radiators on FLA COEs are vertical flow the optimum range by controlling the two flows.
with top and bottom tanks. On FLD Convention-
als, the radiators are cross-flow with end-tanks. On engines with a jacket-water aftercooler (Ref. 1), a
small amount of coolant flows from the oil cooler
In high-flow cooling systems, most of the coolant in a bonnet (Ref. 8), through the aftercooler, and into the
warm engine is routed through the radiator. The cool- engine block.
ant moves relatively quickly through the radiator in a
single pass. The temperature regulator housing vent line (Ref. 2)
routes air and vapor from the engine to the radiator
In low-flow cooling systems, no more than 15 percent surge tank.
of the coolant moves through the radiator; the re-
mainder is pumped constantly through the engine. CATERPILLAR 3176 COOLANT
All Caterpillar and Cummins engine installations have PLUMBING (See Fig. 3)
a fill (shunt) line in the cooling system. The fill line
uses gravity to prevent water pump cavitation Coolant flows from the radiator outlet to the water
(bubble formation around the impeller) by maintaining pump (Ref. 8). There it is pumped through the oil
a slight amount of coolant pressure at the water cooler (Ref. 5) and into the supply manifold. The
pump inlet. The fill line also helps remove air from supply manifold, located in the cylinder block spacer
the system when it is being filled with coolant. block, distributes coolant at each cylinder then flows
around and cools the upper portion of the cylinder
liner.
CATERPILLAR 3306 COOLANT
PLUMBING (See Fig. 1) At each cylinder, coolant flow from the liner enters
the cylinder head, which is divided into two cooling
Coolant flows from the radiator outlet to the water sections. In the cylinder head, coolant flows across
pump (Ref. 7), with some going to the jacket-water the center of the cylinder and the injector seat boss.
aftercooler (Ref. 3), if so equipped. From the after- At the center of the cylinder, coolant flows up around
cooler, coolant moves to the oil cooler bonnet (Ref. the injector sleeve, over the exhaust port, and exits
9). There it mixes with coolant that passed through into the return manifold. The return manifold collects
the oil cooler (Ref. 8) from the water pump. From the the coolant from each cylinder and directs the flow to
bonnet, coolant flows into the engine block. the temperature regulator (Ref. 7). Depending on en-
Inside the block, coolant flows around the cylinders, gine temperature, the temperature regulator directs
into the cylinder head, and then to the temperature all, part, or none of the coolant through the radiator.
regulator (thermostat) housing (Ref. 4). If still cool,
coolant is directed back to the water pump. As it CUMMINS BIG CAM III COOLANT
warms, coolant is directed to the radiator by the tem- PLUMBING (See Fig. 4 )
perature regulator (thermostat). The regulator keeps
When the engine is cold, coolant flows from the tem-
the engine temperature in the optimum range by con-
perature regulator to the water pump (Ref. 6). Some
trolling the two flows.
is pumped through the oil cooler (Ref. 7) to the upper
The vent lines (Ref. 2) from the temperature regula- water manifold (Ref. 5); most is pumped to the en-
tor housing and the aftercooler route air and vapor gine block. From the block, coolant flows to the cylin-
from the engine to the radiator surge tank. der heads, and into the upper water manifold. Some

20.00 Cooling System Troubleshooting
General Information
2
3
2
1
4
6
7 8 9
01/23/97 f200001a
1. Radiator Inlet Hose 4. Temperature Regulator 7. Water Pump
2. Vent Lines (Thermostat) Housing 8. Oil Cooler
3. Jacket-Water Aftercooler 5. Shunt Line 9. Oil Cooler Bonnet
6. Radiator Outlet Hose
Fig. 1, Caterpillar 3306 Coolant Plumbing (FLD 120 Conventional)

of the flow from the block is piped through the after- The remainder moves through the oil cooler (Ref. 8)
cooler (Ref. 3) and back to the water pump. to the thermostat housing (Ref. 4).
The upper water manifold is connected to the ther- The thermostat housing has a bypass thermostat and
mostat housing (Ref. 4). When the engine is cool, a radiator thermostat (see detail). The bypass ther-
the thermostat directs coolant back to the water mostat controls the amount of warmed coolant that
pump. As the engine warms, coolant is directed to flows to the aftercooler, bypassing the radiator. The
the radiator. The thermostat keeps the engine tem- radiator thermostat controls the amount of hot cool-
perature in the optimum range by controlling the two ant that passes through the radiator.
flows.
Between 175°F (79°C) and 185°F (85°C), the two
The vent line (Ref. 1) from the upper water manifold thermostats work together to control the flow and
routes air and vapor from the engine to the surge temperature of coolant to the aftercooler.
tank.
Above 185°F (85°C) coolant temperature, the bypass
thermostat is fully closed, and the radiator thermostat
CUMMINS BIG CAM IV COOLANT continues to open. At 195°F (91°C) the radiator ther-
PLUMBING (See Fig. 5 ) mostat is fully open, and there is maximum flow
through the radiator.
From the radiator, coolant is drawn through the ther-
mostat housing (Ref. 4) to the aftercooler (Ref. 2),
where it warms the intake air for more efficient com-
bustion. With the engine at operating temperature,
about 85 percent of the coolant is pumped from the
water pump through the block and cylinder heads.

General Information
2
1
3
4 6
5
9
8
10
7
10/25/93 f200002a
1. Jacket-Water Aftercooler 4. Temperature Regulator 7. Oil Cooler

2. Vent Line (Thermostat) Housing 8. Oil Cooler Bonnet
3. Radiator Inlet Hose 5. Water Elbow 9. Shunt Line
6. Water Pump 10. Radiator Outlet Hose
CUMMINS L10 COOLANT Between 175°F (79°C) and 185°F (85°C), the
radiator-bypass valve closes, while the radiator-flow
PLUMBING, OPTIMIZED valve opens; some of the coolant passes through the
AFTERCOOLING (See Fig. 6) radiator before it flows to the aftercooler.
With the engine at operating temperature, coolant is Above 185°F (85°C), the radiator-bypass valve is
drawn through the aftercooler (Ref. 2) to the water closed. The radiator-flow valve continues to open. At
pump (Ref. 7), where it mixes with the engine block 195°F (91°C), the radiator-flow valve is completely
coolant. open, and all of the coolant flowing through the after-
cooler first goes through the radiator.
Coolant flows through the engine block into the cylin-
der head, then into the upper water manifold cavity. The vent line (Ref. 3) from the aftercooler inlet joins
A portion of the block coolant is routed through the the cylinder head vent line (Ref. 1), which carries air
oil cooler (Ref. 6) and into the upper manifold cavity. and vapor from the engine to the surge tank.
From there, coolant moves into the thermostat hous-
ing (Ref. 5). About 85 percent is routed directly to the CUMMINS C SERIES COOLANT
water pump. The remainder is controlled by a ther- PLUMBING (See Fig. 7)
mostat (see detail) that has two valves — a radiator-
bypass valve, and a radiator-flow valve. Coolant is drawn from the radiator by the integrally
mounted water pump. There it is pumped through the
Below 175°F (79°C) coolant temperature, the oil cooler and into the upper water manifold. A por-
radiator-bypass valve is open, and the radiator-flow tion of the coolant then flows through the coolant fil-
valve is closed. Hot coolant flows to the aftercooler. ter and returns to the lower manifold, while the rest

General Information
7
5
1 2 8
6
9
10
10/25/93 f200172
1. Overflow Vent 6. Oil Cooler 9. Water Pump

2. Fill Line 7. Radiator Inlet Hose 10. Radiator Outlet Hose
3. Deaeration Line 8. Temperature Regulator
4. Surge Tank (Thermostat) Housing
5. Vent Line

of the coolant flows through each cylinder up to the to the lower manifold, while the rest of the coolant
cylinder head. flows through each cylinder up to the cylinder head.
From each cylinder the coolant flows through cast From each cylinder the coolant flows through cast
openings into the lower manifold and on to the ther- openings into the lower manifold and on to the ther-
mostat housing (Ref. 6). When the engine is below mostat housing (Ref. 6). When the engine is below
operating temperature, the thermostats are closed operating temperature, the thermostats are closed
and coolant is bypassed to the water pump inlet. As and coolant is bypassed to the water pump inlet. As
the coolant temperature increases, both thermostats the coolant temperature increases, both thermostats
begin to open allowing some coolant to flow through begin to open allowing some coolant to flow through
the radiator outlet hose (Ref. 7) to the radiator. At the radiator outlet hose (Ref. 7) to the radiator. At
normal operating temperature, the bypass circuit and normal operating temperature, the bypass circuit and
both thermostats are closed. both thermostats are closed.
CUMMINS L10 COOLANT DETROIT DIESEL SERIES 50

PLUMBING, CHARGE AIR COOLING COOLANT PLUMBING (See Fig. 9)
(See Fig. 8) The water pump draws engine coolant from the lower
Coolant is drawn from the radiator by the water portion of the radiator and forces it through the oil
pump. There it is pumped through the oil cooler and cooler and into the cylinder block. From the cylinder
into the upper water manifold. A portion of the cool- block, the coolant passes up through the cylinder
ant then flows through the coolant filter and returns head.

General Information
3
2
5 4 8
7
6
10/25/93 f200003a
1. Vent Line 4. Thermostat Housing 7. Oil Cooler

2. Radiator Inlet Hose 5. Upper Water Manifold 8. Fill Line
3. Aftercooler 6. Water Pump 9. Radiator Outlet Hose
Fig. 4, Cummins Big Cam III Coolant Plumbing (FLD Conventionals)

When the coolant temperature is below about 186 to DETROIT DIESEL SERIES 55
193°F (86 to 89°C), the thermostat valves stay
closed and block the flow of coolant from the engine COOLANT PLUMBING (See Fig. 10)
to the radiator. When this happens, coolant passes The water pump draws engine coolant from the lower
from the thermostat housing back to the water pump portion of the radiator and forces it through the oil
through the bypass tube. As the coolant temperature cooler and into the cylinder block. From the cylinder
rises above 186 to 193°F (86 to 89°C), the thermo- block, the coolant passes up through the cylinder
stat valves start to open and permit some coolant to head.
circulate through the radiator. When the coolant tem-
perature reaches about 207°F (97°C), the thermostat When the coolant temperature is below about 186 to
valves are fully open, the bypass tube is blocked off, 193°F (86 to 89°C), the thermostat valves stay
and all of the coolant is then circulated through the closed and block the flow of coolant from the engine
radiator. to the radiator. When this happens, coolant passes
from the thermostat housing back to the water pump
A line from the top of the water pump carries excess through the bypass tube. As the coolant temperature
coolant to and from the surge tank. When the coolant rises above 186 to 193°F (86 to 89°C), the thermo-
is hot, it expands, pushing up to the surge tank. stat valves start to open and permit some coolant to
When the coolant is cold, it contracts, and the cool- circulate through the radiator. When the coolant tem-
ant stored in the surge tank flows down to replenish perature reaches about 207°F (97°C), the thermostat
the engine cooling system. valves are fully open, the bypass tube is blocked off,
and all of the coolant is then circulated through the
radiator.

General Information
2
3
5
4
6
7
9
8
C
E
11
B
10
A
10/25/93 f200004a
A. Detail of Thermostat Housing D. to aftercooler

B. from oil cooler E. to radiator
C. from radiator
1. Vent Line 5. Fill Line 9. Radiator Outlet Hose
2. Aftercooler 6. Water Pump 10. Bypass Thermostat
3. Upper Water Manifold 7. Radiator Inlet Hose 11. Radiator Thermostat
4. Thermostat Housing (See Detail) 8. Oil Cooler
Fig. 5, Cummins Big Cam IV Coolant Plumbing (FLD Conventionals)

A line from the top of the water pump carries excess
coolant to and from the surge tank. When the coolant
is hot, it expands, pushing up to the surge tank.
When the coolant is cold, it contracts, and the cool-
ant stored in the surge tank flows down to replenish
the engine cooling system.

General Information
2
3 9
4
5
8
7
C
11
D
10
A B
06/10/2005 f200005a
A. Detail of Thermostat Housing C. to radiator
B. to water pump (constant bypass) D. to aftercooler
1. Cylinder Head Vent Line 5. Thermostat Inlet Hose (See 8. Fill Line
2. Aftercooler Detail) 9. Radiator Outlet Hose
3. Aftercooler Inlet Vent Line 6. Oil Cooler 10. Radiator-Bypass Valve
4. Radiator Inlet Hose 7. Water Pump 11. Radiator-Flow Valve
Fig. 6, Cummins L10 Coolant Plumbing (FLA COE)

General Information
4
5
6
3
1 2
10/25/93 f200173
1. Overflow Vent 4. Surge Tank 7. Thermostat Housing

2. Fill Line 5. Deaeration Line 8. Radiator Outlet Hose
3. Vent Line 6. Radiator Inlet
Fig. 7, Cummins C Series Coolant Plumbing (FLD 112 Conventional)

General Information
4
5
1 2 3
9 10
11
10/25/93 f200174
1. Overflow Vent 5. Deaeration Line 9. Water Pump
2. Fill Line 6. Radiator Inlet Hose 10. Radiator Outlet Hose
3. Vent Line 7. Thermostat Housing 11. Radiator
4. Surge Tank 8. Oil Cooler
Fig. 8, Cummins L10 Coolant Plumbing (FLD 112 Conventional)

General Information
3
2 4 7
8 10 6
5
1
9
11
12
09/21/93 f200242
1. Overflow Vent 5. Fill Line 9. Oil Cooler

2. Surge Tank 6. Radiator Inlet Hose 10. Bypass Tube
3. Radiator Vent Line 7. Radiator 11. Water Pump
4. Engine Vent Line 8. Thermostat Housing 12. Radiator Outlet Hose
Fig. 9, Detroit Diesel Series 50 Coolant Plumbing (FLD 112 Conventional)

General Information
6
2
1
4
2
7
5 3
6
4
11/14/95 f010964
1. Radiator Inlet Hose 4. Fill Line 6. Surge Tank
2. Engine Vent Line 5. Radiator Outlet Line 7. Radiator
3. Radiator Vent Line
Fig. 10, Detroit Diesel Series 55 Coolant Plumbing (FLD 120 Conventional)

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting sections of this manual or to the engine and compo-

nent manufacturers’ service publications.
Possible causes of hot or cold engine coolant tem-
peratures are listed below. For repairs, refer to other
Problem—Coolant Temperature Above Normal
Coolant leakage (see possible sources Perform the repairs necessary to stop leakage. Fill to the bottom of the
below) is causing a low coolant level. radiator fill neck with the correct mixture of antifreeze and water.
External Leakage: hoses and hose
connections radiator seams, core,
draincock, and cap block core and drain
plugs water pump thermostat housing(s)
overflow and surge tank heater hoses and
core temperature sending unit(s) cylinder
head(s) mating (gasket) surfaces coolant
filter oil cooler(s)
Internal Leakage: cylinder head gasket
warped head or block surfaces cracked
cylinder head or block cylinder head
capscrews loose, missing, or tightened
unevenly oil cooler air compressor cylinder
head and gasket cylinder liners, liner seals
aftercooler
The temperature gauge is not working. Check the gauge circuit wires, circuit breaker, and sending unit. If the gauge
circuit is okay, replace the temperature gauge. If the gauge circuit is broken,
repair it and then check temperature gauge operation
The radiator fins, the aftercooler, or the air Clean the outside of the core, the aftercooler, and the condenser with
conditioner condenser fins are clogged. compressed air directed from the fan side, or with water and a mild laundry
soap. Straighten bent fins.
A radiator hose is collapsed or plugged. Replace hoses.
A fan drive belt or the water pump belt is Adjust belt tension.
loose.
The cooling fan shroud is damaged. Repair or replace the shroud.
The radiator cap is incorrect or Make sure the correct radiator cap is installed. If the cap does not hold the
malfunctioning. correct pressure, replace it.
The on-off fan clutch is not working. Check the solenoid valve in the fan clutch air supply line, the sending unit for
the valve, and the operating air pressure to the valve. If valve operation and
air pressure are okay, repair or replace the fan clutch. If the valve doesn’t
work or if air pressure is low, make repairs and then check fan clutch
operation.
The viscous fan drive is not operating to Check for unobstructed airflow through the radiator core to the fan clutch
specifications. sensor. Check that the radiator core is getting hot in front of the fan clutch
(core is not clogged in that area) so that the sensor is getting a correct
reading. Replace the fan clutch if no radiator problems exist.
The engine oil level is incorrect. Fill to the high (H) mark on the dipstick.
There is too much antifreeze or coolant Clean and flush the cooling system. Refill the system with the correct mixture
additive in the system. of antifreeze and water, and install the correct additive and filter, or treatment
filter.

Troubleshooting

One or both of the thermostats is incorrect Make sure the correct thermostat is installed. Test the thermostat according to
or inoperative. the engine manufacturer’s instructions. Replace it if it does not operate
correctly.
The water pump is not working correctly. Repair or replace the water pump.
The radiator core is internally plugged or To check for blockages, warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
damaged. Turn off the engine, and run your hand over the finned surface of the radiator.
If there is a blockage in the radiator, it should cause an obvious temperature
difference from one area of the core to another. An obvious difference
between inlet and outlet temperature is normal.
If blockage is suspected, clean and flush the cooling system.
Repair or replace a damaged core.
Air or combustion gases are entering the Check the cylinder head(s), head gasket(s), cylinder liners, aftercooler, air
cooling system. compressor cylinder head, and fan/shutter air control valve (if applicable) for
leaks. Repair or replace parts, as necessary.
The aftercooler filter screen is plugged Clean or replace the screen in the thermostat housing cover.
(Cummins Big Cam IV only).
The water manifold sealing rings are worn Remove the sealing rings and check the ring counterbores in the cylinder
or there are rings missing (Cummins Big heads. Repair the counterbores if necessary, and install new sealing rings.
Cam IV only).
The aftercooler is plugged or damaged. Repair or replace the aftercooler.
The oil cooler is plugged or damaged. Repair or replace the oil cooler.
The engine is receiving too much fuel. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s fuel delivery system adjustment
procedures
The wrong fan (replacement unit) is Install the correct fan.
installed.
The wrong radiator (replacement unit) is Install the correct radiator.
installed.
There is exhaust blockage. Repair the exhaust system.
There is frozen coolant in the radiator. Use the proper antifreeze-to-water ratio needed for winter temperatures.
Problem—Coolant Temperature Below Normal

Check the gauge circuit wires, circuit breaker, and sending unit. If the gauge
The temperature gauge is not working. circuit is okay, replace the temperature gauge. If the gauge circuit is broken,
repair it and then check temperature gauge operation.
Check the solenoid valve in the fan clutch air supply line, the sending unit for
the valve, and the operating air pressure to the valve. If valve operation and
The on-off fan clutch operates
air pressure are okay, repair or replace the fan clutch. If the valve doesn’t
continuously.
work or if air pressure is low, make repairs and then check fan clutch
operation.
The viscous fan drive operates
Replace the fan drive.
continuously.

Troubleshooting

Make sure the correct thermostat is installed. Test the thermostat according to
One or both thermostats are incorrect or
the engine manufacturer’s instructions. Replace it if it does not operate
inoperative.
correctly.
The thermostat seal is damaged or
missing (Cummins Big Cam III engines, Replace the thermostat seal.
California only).
The thermostat seats are damaged or
Replace the thermostat seats.
missing (Cummins Big Cam IV only)
The radiator check valve leaks (Cummins
Replace the check valve.
Big Cam IV and L10 only).

Radiator Assembly, COE and FLD 120 Conventional 20.01
General Description and system overheats, and the pressure exceeds 10 psi
(69 kPa), excess coolant is expelled through the ra-
Principles of Operation diator overflow tube (Ref. 4).
There are two types of radiators used in COE and
The main function of a cooling system is to keep the
120 Conventional trucks: high-flow (traditional), and
engine at its optimum operating temperature. This
low-flow.
results in the most efficient use of fuel and allows the
engine oil to provide a good lubricating film. High-flow and low-flow radiators are either single-
pass vertical-flow radiators (with top and bottom
The central component of the cooling system, the
tanks), or single-pass cross-flow radiators (with end-
radiator assembly, includes the surge tank, the radia-
tanks). See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
tor, and the radiator cap. See Fig. 1 .
On 120 Conventionals, cross-flow radiators with end-
3 tanks are used.
2
1
4 On COEs, vertical-flow radiators with top and bottom
5 tanks are used.
inlet
from
engine
6
1. Surge Tank 5. Radiator Vent Line
2. Engine Vent Line 6. Fill Line (Cummins) or
3. Radiator Cap Shunt Line (Caterpillar)
4. Overflow Tube
02/29/96 f500007
Fig. 1
After the engine is started and warmed up, the en-
gine thermostat opens to allow the water pump to
draw coolant from the radiator. The water pump cir-
culates the coolant through water jackets in the en-
gine block and cylinder head, where heat is ab-
sorbed from the cylinder walls, combustion
chambers, and valve assemblies. The heated coolant
then flows through the tubes of the radiator core, outlet
which dissipates the heat to the air drawn in by the 03/01/96
to engine f500008
engine fan. By the time coolant travels through the
radiator core to the outlet tube, much of the heat has Fig. 2, High-Flow Radiator, Cross-Flow
been transferred to the air; coolant then is pumped On cross-flow radiators, coolant flows from the inlet
back through the engine to absorb more heat. at the top of the left end-tank, across the core to the
The surge tank (Ref. 1) provides reserve coolant ca- right end-tank, and out the radiator at the bottom of
pacity, expansion space for heated coolant, and de- the right end-tank. On vertical-flow radiators, coolant
aeration space. The radiator cap (Ref. 3) keeps a flows from the inlet on the top tank, down through
pressure of 10 psi (69 kPa) in the system, which the core, and out the radiator at the bottom tank.
raises the boiling point of the coolant. If the cooling

20.01 Radiator Assembly, COE and FLD 120 Conventional
SURGE TANK
VENT (WITH
CHECK VALVE) CHECK
BALL
INLET
CONNECTION
inlet See
from detail
engine above
OUTLET outlet
CONNECTION 03/01/96 to engine f500010
Fig. 4, Low-Flo Radiator, Cross-Flow
01/26/95 f500009
Fig. 3, Low-Flow Radiator, Vertical-Flow

On low-flow radiators, either the top tank or the right
end-tank ( Fig. 4 ) has a check ball to limit coolant
flow through the vent line. Low-flow radiator cores
have turbulated tubes, which have internal baffles
that constantly mix the coolant, providing more heat
transfer than standard tubes.
Coolant flowing from a low-flow radiator has been
pumped more slowly and is cooler than that from a
high-flow radiator. This cooler coolant is routed di-
rectly to the aftercooler, where it lowers the charge-
air temperature more than would a high-flow system.

Removal 2
1 5
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires. 2 4
3
IMPORTANT: COE models require tilting the cab 4
for access to the engine cooling system. Tilting
the cab must be done correctly. See Group 60
for the proper cab tilting procedure and precau- 6
tions.
2. On 120 Conventionals, tilt the hood halfway and 7
support it. Disconnect the hood cables from the
radiator brace-rod brackets. Tilt the hood all the 8
10
way, and support it.
8
On COEs, remove the radiator grille from the
front of the cab. Tilt the cab to the full-open posi- 9
tion.
13
WARNING 16
9
Do not drain the coolant while the engine is hot. 7
To avoid personal injury from scalding coolant,
10
wait until the engine has cooled before draining 14
the coolant. 7
7 15
3. Drain the coolant from the radiator. See Fig. 1, 11 11
12
for typical COE radiator configuration, or Fig. 2
13 11
for typical conventional radiator configuration. 8 11 12 7
3.1 With the engine cool, loosen the radiator
03/16/94 f500011a
cap to release any pressure in the radia-
tor, then tighten the cap. 1. Radiator Cap 8. Bolt
2. Panhead Screw With 9. Side Channel
3.2 On radiators with a bottom tank, place a Lockwasher 10. Stay Rod
clean drain pan under the bottom tank. 3. Filler Neck 11. Washer
4. Filler Gasket 12. Isolator
On radiators with end-tanks, place a clean 5. Low-Coolant Probe 13. Stay Rod Bracket
drain pan under the drain located on the 6. Top Tank and Surge 14. Lower Support
bottom of the left end-tank. Tank 15. Square-Neck Bolt
7. Nut 16. Bottom Tank
Remove the drain plug, or open the drain
valve. If necessary, use a deflector to Fig. 1, Radiator Installation, COE Mounting Shown
channel coolant away from the aerody-
namic cover into the pan. inlet and outlet hose clamps; disconnect
the hoses and allow them to drain. Seal
NOTE: On some Caterpillar and Detroit Die- the hoses to prevent entry of dirt.
sel engines, the radiator drain plug is lo-
cated on the forward end of the coolant out- 4. Loosen the coolant hose clamps and fittings from
let pipe. See Fig. 3. On these vehicles, the radiator and surge tank. Disconnect the
hoses; seal them to prevent entry of dirt.
remove the aerodynamic cover to access
the drain plug. IMPORTANT: Don’t disconnect the refrigerant
lines from the A/C condenser.
3.3 Remove the radiator cap and allow the
radiator to drain completely. Loosen the

8
2
2
2
3
2 2
1 3
4
9
2
5
3
10
2
2 15
16
17
18
14 3 19
12
13
11
2
13
12
2
06/02/94 f500001a
1. Rear Right-Side Brace-Rod 7. Diagonal Brace Rod 14. Lower Aftercooler Mount Bracket
Bracket 8. Left-Side Brace Rod (if equipped)
2. Flanged Hexnut 9. Left-Side Brace-Rod Bracket 15. Serrated-Flange Bolt
3. Flanged Capscrew 10. Radiator 16. Charge Air Cooler
4. Right-Side Brace Rod 11. Radiator Mount Assembly 17. A/C Condenser
5. Right-Side Brace-Rod Bracket 12. Center Support Bracket Washer 18. Bearing Washer
6. Rear Left-Side Brace-Rod 13. Radiator Support Isolator 19. Locknut
Bracket
Fig. 2, Radiator Installation, 120 Conventional Mounting Shown

DANGER
AUTOMATIC
FAN
KEEP HANDS
CLEAR
WHEN ENGINE
IS RUNNING
FAN STARTS
OR STOPS
03/16/94 f500012a
Fig. 3, Radiator Drain Plug

03/16/94 f500013a
5. Remove the fasteners holding the A/C condenser
Fig. 4, Electric Horn and Bracket
(if equipped) to the radiator. Move the condenser
out of the way, and support it so that it is not
damaged during radiator removal.
6. Remove the air intake ducting, if equipped. For
7. Remove the charge air cooler, if equipped. For
8. Disconnect the wire from the low-coolant probe
in the surge tank, if equipped. Remove the self-
tapping screws that attach the electric horn
bracket to the left side channel. See Fig. 4. Re-
move any clamps that attach electrical wiring to
the radiator side channels or end-tanks.
On radiators with end-tanks, disconnect the
ground wire from the left end-tank. See Fig. 5.
9. On radiators with end-tanks, disconnect the three
radiator brace rods from the brackets on top of 03/16/94 f500014a
the radiator assembly.
Fig. 5, Disconnect Ground Wire
Attach a lift strap to both ends of the top radiator
side channel. Connect the strap to an overhead 10. On radiators with top and bottom tanks, remove
hoist. Remove any slack in the strap, so that the the hexnut and washer from the square-neck bolt
radiator assembly is supported when the other in each lower support isolator.
mounting fasteners are removed. On FLD 120 Conventionals with 1350-square-
Remove the hexnuts and washers from each inch radiators, remove the nuts from the radiator
lower support isolator. mounting bolts at the bottom of the module sup-
port bracket, under the charge air cooler.

Remove the flanged bolts and nuts from the stay the hoist, lift the radiator, and move it onto the
rods at the radiator side channels. See Fig. 6. radiator mount assembly.
With one person holding each side of the radia- Fasten the bottom of the radiator to the mount
tor, tilt the top forward until the fan shroud clears assembly. Tighten the flanged hexnuts 190 lbf·ft
the fan; move the fan shroud up or down as nec- (260 N·m).
essary. Lift one side of the radiator, then push
2. On radiators with top and bottom tanks, attach a
the radiator toward the opposite side until the
lift strap to both radiator side channels, and con-
head of the square-neck bolt is dislodged from
nect the strap to an overhead hoist. Using the
the keyway in the lower support on the opposite
hoist, lift the radiator, and move it over the radia-
side. With the radiator still tilted forward at the
tor mount assembly.
top, lower the raised side, and push the radiator
back to the other side until the other square-neck Position the square-neck bolts in the square por-
bolt clears its keyway. tion of the keyway in each lower support. See
Fig. 7.
Using the overhead hoist, lift the radiator from
the chassis. Lower, then remove the strap from With one person at each side of the radiator,
the radiator. align the square-neck bolts with the washers and
isolators, then swing the bottom of the radiator
into place on the chassis.
Tilt the radiator upright, and install, but do not
tighten, the flanged bolts and nuts in the stay
rods and stay rod attachment ears.
Place a thick washer, then a flanged nut, on
each square-neck bolt. Tighten the flanged nuts
on the square-neck bolts 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m); then
DANGER tighten the stay rod bolts 80 lbf·ft (110 N·m).
AUTOMATIC
FAN
KEEP HANDS
3. Remove the lift strap. Secure the top of the ra-
CLEAR
WHEN ENGINE diator.
IS RUNNING
FAN STARTS
OR STOPS 3.1 Place the surge tank on the radiator (if
previously removed).
3.2 Install the charge air cooler (if equipped).
For instructions, see Group 09.
03/16/94 f500188a 4. On radiators with end-tanks, install the radiator
brace rods; tighten the fasteners 70 lbf·ft (95
Fig. 6, Remove Stay Rod Fasteners
N·m).
Installation Connect the low-coolant wiring harness (if
equipped) to the connector under the right end-
NOTE: If replacing the radiator, use the steps in tank.
"Disassembly and Assembly" that cover removal 5. On radiators with top and bottom tanks, remove
and installation of the radiator cap, overflow the filler cover plate, and install the low-coolant
tube, low-coolant probe and ground wire, charge probe. Tighten the panhead screws 120 lbf·in
air cooler mount brackets, and fan shroud (as (1360 N·cm).
equipped). These parts are not included with 6. Move the A/C condenser into place and fasten it
replacement radiators. to the radiator. Tighten the locknuts 15 lbf·ft (20
1. On radiators with end-tanks, attach a lift strap to N·m).
both ends of the top radiator side channel, and 7. Adjust the position of the fan shroud.
connect the strap to an overhead hoist. Using

be T-bolt clamps, (see Fig. 8) Breeze Constant-

Torque clamps, (see Fig. 9) or ABA radial worm-
drive hose clamps, (see Fig. 10).
A 1 A
3 T-bolt type hose clamps are now standard on
hoses with an inside diameter greater than 2
inches (51mm). When working with T-bolt type
2
hose clamps, tighten the clamps 55 lbf·in (620
N·cm).
Breeze Constant-Torque hose clamps must be
tightened so that the screw tip of the clamp ex-
1 2 tends about 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the clamp
housing, and the Belleville washer stacks must
be collapsed almost flat. Use a torque wrench to
3
4 install these hose clamps correctly. The correct
5 installation torque for Breeze Constant-Torque
hose clamps is as follows:
6
For Breeze Constant-Torque hose clamps with a
7
5/16-inch tightening screw hex: 55 lbf·in (620
8 N·cm).
A−A For Breeze Constant-Torque hose clamps with a
03/16/94 f500016a
1. Square-Neck Bolt 5. Socket 3/8-inch tightening screw hex: 90 lbf·in (1020
2. Lower Support 6. Front Crossmember N·cm).
3. Thin Snubbing 7. Thick Snubbing
Washer Washer
4. Rubber Isolator 8. Flanged Locknut
Fig. 7, Square-Neck Bolt Positioning
7.1 Adjust the shroud so there is about 1 inch

(25 mm) clearance between the right side
of the fan blade and the fan shroud, and
about 3/4 inch (19 mm) clearance on the
left side. This allows for engine-torque
movement.
7.2 Adjust the shroud so the vertical clearance
between the top of the fan blade and the
fan shroud opening is within 1/8 inch (3
mm) of the clearance between the bottom 02/28/96 f200326
of the blade and the shroud opening.
Fig. 8, T-Bolt Type Hose Clamp
7.3 Tighten the self-tapping screws 15 lbf·ft
(20 N·m). NOTE: All hose clamp adjusters lose torque af-
ter installation, due to cold-flow of the hose ma-
CAUTION terial from under the clamp. Breeze Constant
Torque clamps typically show a 30 percent loss
Do not use any lubricants or sealants to coat the of torque shortly after installation; a 50 percent
ends of the hoses. They could soften the rubber
loss after heat-cycling, and up to 80 percent
and damage the hoses.
loss after time and repeated heat cycles. How-
8. Remove the seals from the coolant hose ends, ever, when correctly installed, Breeze Constant-
and connect the hoses. Your hose clamps might Torque clamps adjust automatically, holding

B
A 1
08/15/94 f200286
12/22/2003 f200590
A. The screw tip must extend about 1/4 inch (6 mm).
B. The Belleville washer stacks must be collapsed
until the washers are almost flat. Fig. 10, ABA Radial Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (typical)
1. Tightening Screw Hex tightened further. To check the torque of an ABA
Fig. 9, Breeze Constant-Torque Hose Clamp Installation clamp, it must be loosened completely, then
torqued to the proper value listed in Table 1.
enough torque to keep consistent sealing pres- Over-tightening an ABA Radial worm-drive hose
sure. During vehicle operation and shutdown, clamp can result in coolant leaks.
the screw tip may adjust in and out, according
to temperature and pressure changes. The 9. Insert the overflow tube in the clamps which hold
it to the radiator, then tighten the fasteners 120
torque may need to be adjusted for individual lbf·in (1360 N·cm).
applications.
10. Install the air intake ducting, if equipped. For in-
ABA Radial worm-drive hose clamps may lose structions, see Group 09.
30 percent of their torque at the screw adjuster,
shortly after being correctly tightened. This is 11. Close the drain valve, or install the drain plug.
due to cold-flow of the hose material, not an Tighten the drain plug (if equipped) 1-1/2 turns
actual loosening of the clamp. This is the way beyond finger-tight.
they are designed to work, they should not be
Hose Clamp Torque Values

Clamp Type Size Torque: lbf·in (N·cm)
T-Bolt All 55 (620)
Breeze Constant-Torque 5/16-inch tightening screw hex 90 (1020)
3/8-inch tightening screw hex 90 (1020)
ABA 1.26-inch Diameter 31 (360)
1.50-inch Diameter 35 (400)
Table 1, Hose Clamp Torque Values

12. Install the charge air cooler connecting hoses, if

equipped. See Fig. 11. WARNING
03/16/94 f500017a
Fig. 11, Charge Air Cooler Hose Connection, COE Installation Shown
CAUTION Attach the hood tilt-assist cables to the brackets

Coolant must be filled to the bottom of the radia- at the forwardmost holes. Attaching at any other
tor filler neck. Low coolant could cause engine hole could cause the tilted hood to be less
overheating, which could damage the engine. stable, possibly resulting in personal injury or
property damage.
13. Fill the radiator with coolant to the bottom of the
radiator filler neck. For coolant specifications, NOTE: The upper holes are used for the tilt-
see the vehicle maintenance manual, and the assist attachment on FLC 112 Conventionals,
engine manufacturer’s maintenance and opera- but are not to be used on FLD 120 Convention-
tion manual. Do not install the radiator cap yet. als. See Fig. 12.
14. Start the engine, and check for coolant leaks in 17. Remove the chocks from the tires.
the hoses, hose connections, and radiator core.
Run the engine at fast idle for at least 3 minutes,
then stop the engine. Check the coolant level in
the radiator, and add coolant as needed.
15. Install the radiator cap.
16. On COEs, return the cab to the operating posi-
tion. See Group 60. Install the radiator grille, and
tighten the nuts 70 lbf·in (780 N·cm).
On FLD 120 Conventionals, support the hood in
the half-tilt position and attach the hood cables to
the forwardmost holes in the brackets at the top
of the radiator.

3 5
6
A
07/20/95 f880298
A. Attach Tilt-Assist Cable Here
1. Hood 4. Bracket 6. Surge Tank
2. Radiator 5. Upper Hole 7. Tilt-Assist Cable
3. Forwardmost Hole
Fig. 12, Hood Tilt-Assist Cable and Bracket (with detail)

Disassembly, Assembly, and Pressure-Testing
Disassembly RADIATORS WITH METAL END-

Before disassembling the radiator, pressure-flush it
TANKS (See Fig. 2)
and check the radiator cap, following the instructions 1. Remove the radiator from the vehicle; see Sub-
in the radiator section of the vehicle maintenance ject 100.
manual. Clean and check the exterior of the radiator,
2. Remove the fan shroud from the radiator.
following the instructions in the vehicle driver’s
manual. 3. Disconnect one end of the vent hose that runs
between the surge tank and the right side-tank.
RADIATORS WITH TOP AND Disconnect the low-coolant probe wire and
ground wire (if equipped).
BOTTOM TANKS (See Fig. 1)
4. Remove the nuts that attach the brace-rod
1. Remove the radiator from the vehicle; see Sub- brackets and surge tank (if still attached) to the
ject 100. top side channel; remove the brackets, spacers,
2. Remove the fan shroud from the radiator. and surge tank.
3. Set the radiator upright on its lower supports, 5. Lay the radiator front-face down on a workbench,
and brace it in this position. with the right end-tank hanging over the edge.
Place blocks under the side channels as needed
4. Remove and save the radiator cap, panhead to keep the radiator from tipping, and to get to all
screws and internal-toothed lockwashers, filler of the end-tank attachment bolts.
neck and overflow tube, and low-coolant probe.
Remove and discard the gaskets. 6. Mark the locations of the aftercooler mounting
brackets (if used), and the clamps of the low-
5. Remove the bolts and nuts that attach the top coolant probe harness and overflow tube. Re-
tank to the upper header. Remove each header move all of the bolts and nuts holding the end-
bar and horseshoe bolting plate as soon as each tank to the side header. Remove each header
part is no longer held in place by the bolts. bar and horseshoe plate, as soon as each part is
Lift off the top tank. Remove and discard the no longer held in place by bolts. Remove the
upper header gasket. end-tank, and remove and discard the radiator
gasket.
6. Lay the radiator front-face down on a table or
workbench so the bottom tank hangs over the Remove the left end-tank by repeating steps as
edge. Place blocks under the side channels, as required.
needed to prevent the radiator from tipping, and 7. Remove the blocks that were placed under the
to allow access to all bottom tank attachment side channels. Move the radiator so that the side
bolts. headers are resting on the workbench. Remove
7. Remove the bolts and nuts that attach the bot- the side channels.
tom tank to the lower header. Remove each
lower support, header bar, and horseshoe bolting CAUTION
plate, as soon as each part is no longer held in
place by bolts. Lift off the bottom tank. CAUTION: Don’t rod out low-flow radiators. Rod-
ding out low-flow radiators will damage the
8. Remove the blocks that were placed under the dimpled tubes and cause coolant leaks.
side channels. Move the radiator so that the
upper and lower headers are resting on the table IMPORTANT: On both types of radiators, check
or workbench. Remove the side channels. the tubes of the radiator core for scale deposits.
If the radiator has been pressure-flushed, and
the tubes are still clogged, the radiator should
be rodded or boiled out with acid by an experi-
enced radiator shop. Otherwise, replace the
core.

RADIATORS WITH PLASTIC 2.4 Slip the side channels off the radiator core
and tank assembly. If necessary, spread
END-TANKS (See Fig. 3) the channels so they clear the end-tank
bosses.
IMPORTANT: Disassembling and assembling
the 1000-square-inch radiator with plastic end- 3. Remove the end-tanks.
tanks requires the special tools listed in Table 1. 3.1 Place the radiator core and tank assembly
in the disassembly/assembly fixture, and
Special Tools clamp the assembly securely in place.
Description Qty See Fig. 4.
Plastech II® Tanking Machine With Five 2-Inch 3.2 Position the tank clamping cylinders
1 evenly across the top of the tank. Make
Cylinders
T-Bar 1
sure the cylinders’ rubber plungers will not
press against breakable fittings, such as
Hooked-End Bar 1 vent tube ports.
Wave Form Bar 1
Table 1 CAUTION
CAUTION: Apply only enough pressure to com-
Order these tools from: press the sealing gasket. Too much pressure will
crack the plastic tank.
RAD PAL
2381 17 St. 3.3 Apply pressure evenly across the top of
Detroit,, MI 48216 the tank until the tank-to-core sealing gas-
1. Remove the radiator from the vehicle; for instruc- ket is compressed enough to show a
tions, see Subject 100. small gap between the bottom of the
dimple wave lock crimp and the tank seal-
ing flange.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Use care when handling or supporting CAUTION
the plastic end-tanks. Failure to do so could dam-
age the tanks. CAUTION: In some places, especially around the
tank ports, the wave crimps may have to be un-
2. Remove the side channels from the radiator as- locked with a screwdriver. When using a screw-
sembly. driver, be careful not to crack or gouge the plas-
2.1 Remove the four spring clips (Ref. 9) that tic tank.
hold the side channel mounting pins in 3.4 Place the T-bar into the T-bar groove in
place. Insert a screwdriver blade in the the disassembly/assembly fixture.
open end of each clip, and pry the clip See Fig. 5.
open until it clears the edge of the mount-
ing pin. Then, slip the clip off the pin. 3.5 Slide the hooked-end bar over the T-bar.
Place the hook over the top of the wave
2.2 Use a rubber mallet and a punch to tap crimp and pull the T-bar back to unlock
out the channel mounting pins (Ref. 1). the crimp. See Fig. 5.
2.3 Remove the nuts and lockwashers (Refs. 3.6 Slide the hooked-end bar and T-bar down
11 and 10) from the top and the bottom of the T-bar groove to the next wave crimp,
the radiator, and remove the radiator and repeat steps as required until all the
brace rod (Ref. 12). wave crimps are unlocked.
4. Once all the wave crimps are unlocked, remove
the tank.

1 5
4
2
3
4
9
6
9
16
10
12
19
11
11
12 9 1. Radiator Cap
2. Panhead Screw
13 With Lockwasher
3. Filler Neck
14 4. Filler Gasket
5. Low−Coolant Probe
10
6. Top Tank and Surge Tank
7. Serrated−Flange Nut
8 8. Header Gasket
9. Horseshoe Bolting Plate
15
10. Header Bar
16 11. Serrated−Flange Bolt
12. Side Channel
9
13. Flanged Bolt
14. Core and Header
15 21 Assembly
7
13 17 20 22 15. Flanged Nut
17 16. Stay Rod
17 18 18 17. Snubbing Washer
17 18. Isolator
19 19. Stay Rod Bracket
15
20. Bottom Tank
21. Lower Support
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown. 22. Square−Neck Bolt
03/04/96 f500135
Fig. 1, Radiator Assembly, COE

1 1
3
4
5
7
3
3
3 9
11
8
7 1
1
6
1. Flanged Hexnut
2. Surge Tank
10 5 3. Top Side Channel Bolts
4. Top Side Channel
5. Horseshoe Plate
6. Right End−Tank
7. Gasket
13 8 8. Flanged Capscrew
9. Core
12 10. Header Bar
11. Left End−Tank
12. Bottom Side Channel
13 13. Bottom Side Channel Bolts
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.

07/26/94 f500019
Fig. 2, Radiator Assembly With Metal End-Tanks, 120 Conventional

9 1
6
2
10
11
7
1
3
5
9 4
8
13
8 See Detail A.
1
12
2
14
5
10
11
DIMPLE 1
WAVE 3
9
LOCK CRIMP 4
Detail A
1. Channel Mounting Pin 6. Side Channel (top) 11. Nut

2. Bolt 7. End−Tank 12. Radiator Brace Rod
3. 3/8−inch Flatwasher 8. End−Tank Gasket 13. Radiator Core
4. 3/8−16 Bolt 9. Spring Clip 14. Side Channel (bottom)
5. 3/8−16 Nut 10. Lockwasher
05/23/95 f500184
Fig. 3, Radiator With Plastic End-Tanks

03/25/93 f500180
Fig. 4
4.1 Release the pressure from the tank, and 4.4 Clean the sealing surface of the radiator
move the clamping cylinders off the radia- core header.
tor core and tank assembly.
CAUTION
CAUTION
CAUTION: If a leak is in the end-tank, replace it.
CAUTION: When removing the end-tank, do not Welding or soldering too close to the end-tank
use a screwdriver against the tank sealing flange. can damage it.
A screwdriver blade may damage the flange and
4.5 Repair any leaks. If the leak is in the core,
prevent a good seal after the tank is installed.
but within 7.5 cm (3 inches) of the tank,
4.2 Lift the tank from the forward side — the remove the tank before repairing the leak.
side opposite the tank ports. If needed,
4.6 Repeat required steps above to remove
use a rubber mallet or the heel of your
the opposite tank.
hand and tap the side of the tank to
loosen it. Remove the plastic tank from IMPORTANT: Check the tubes of the radiator
the radiator core. core for scale deposits. If the radiator has been
4.3 Remove the sealing gasket from the seal- pressure-flushed, and the tubes are still
ing surface of the radiator core header. clogged, the radiator should be rodded or boiled
See Fig. 6. out with acid by an experienced radiator shop.
Otherwise, replace the core.

02/17/94 f500181a
1. Sealing Surface 2. Gasket
03/25/93 f500177
Fig. 5 Fig. 6
radiator, push the bottom tank into place

Assembly against the header and header gasket.
Hold the tank in place.
RADIATORS WITH TOP AND 3.3 From the bottom, insert 5/16 x 5/8-inch
BOTTOM TANKS bolts in all of the holes labeled "A"
in Fig. 7. Install the nuts, and tighten
1. With the radiator core lying front-face down on a them until the bottom tank contacts the
workbench, and resting on the front edges of the gasket.
upper and lower headers, spread a thin coating
of grease on one surface of each of the new 3.4 Position one of the lower supports against
header gaskets; press the greased surface of the bottom tank, as shown in Fig. 7, Ref.
each gasket against its header. B. The square end of the lower support
keyway must be outboard of the round
2. Position both side channels on the core, with the hole in the keyway. From the top, install
stay rod attachment ears pointing toward the 5/16 x 1-inch bolts in all of the holes la-
lower end of the back of the radiator. beled "C" in Fig. 7. Install nuts on all of
3. Install the bottom tank. these bolts, and tighten them finger-tight.
3.1 On the back of the radiator, insert a 3.5 Install the other lower support (Fig. 7, Ref.
header bar between the header and the D). See Fig. 7, Ref. E, for bolt locations.
inboard end of the side channels.
3.6 Set the radiator upright on the lower sup-
3.2 Install a horseshoe bolting plate between ports, and install one of the header bars at
the outboard end of each side channel the front of the lower header.
and the header. With the bottom tank inlet
and outlet connections at the back of the

4.1 With the radiator sitting upright on its

A A lower supports, insert the header bars be-
A A tween the upper header and the inboard
ends of the side channels at the front and
F C back of the radiator.
4.2 Install a horseshoe bolting plate between
F C the outboard end of each side channel
and the upper header.
F C 4.3 Place the top tank on the upper header,
with the longer overhang of the surge tank
F C toward the back of the radiator.
B See Fig. 8.
F C
F C
F C
F C
F E
front back
F E
01/04/93 f500021
F E Fig. 8
4.4 At the front of the radiator, install a nut

F E
and a 1-1/4 inch (32 mm) long bolt into
D each of the three locations labeled "A"
F E in Fig. 9. Insert the bolts from the bottom,
and tighten them finger-tight.
F E From the bottom, install all of the remain-
ing bolts and nuts (Fig. 9, Ref. B), and
F E tighten the nuts finger-tight.
4.5 Using the tightening sequence in Fig. 10,
F E tighten all of the top and bottom tank fas-
teners 120 lbf·in (1360 N·cm). Again using
A A the tightening sequence in Fig. 10, tighten
A A all of the top and bottom tank fasteners 15
07/26/94 f500020
lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Fig. 7 4.6 If a new top tank was installed, place new
From the top, install the remaining bolts filler gaskets around both of the filler neck
and nuts, and tighten the nuts fingertight. openings in the surge tank.
See Fig. 7, Ref. F. 4.7 Install the filler neck in the forward open-
4. Install the top tank. ing, and install the low-coolant probe in
the rear opening. Position the filler neck
so that the overflow-tube vent is pointing

B B
B B 34 33
31 32
B B
29 30
A B
28 25
B B
21 24
B B
20 17
A B
13 16
B B
12 9
B B
5 8
B B
4 1
Front B B Back 3 2
B B
6 7
B B
11 10
A B
14 15
B B
19 18
B B
22 23
B B
27 26
B B
36 35
B B
B B 37 38
40 39
Top View
03/01/96 f500023
03/01/96 f500022
Fig. 9 Fig. 10
to the right (toward the passenger’s side 2. Make sure the bolts that attach the surge tank to
of the vehicle after the radiator is in- the top side channel are in place and tightened
stalled). Install the eight panhead screws 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m).
and internal-toothed lockwashers; tighten 3. Move both side channels into place.
the screws 120 lbf·in (1360 N·cm). Install
4. Attach the left end-tank to the radiator core.
the radiator cap. Install the overflow tube.
4.1 On the back of the radiator, insert a
RADIATORS WITH METAL END- header bar between the header and the
inboard end of the side channels. Install a
TANKS horseshoe plate between the outboard
1. With the radiator core lying front-face down on a end of each side channel and the header.
workbench, and resting on the side headers, See Fig. 11.
spread a thin coating of grease on one surface 4.2 Place the left end-tank against the header.
of each of the new header gaskets; press the From the tank side, install 5/16 x 3/4-inch
greased surface of each gasket against its bolts in all of the holes labeled "A"
header.

A 39 40 A
A 38 37 A
D 35 36 C
B 26 HORSE−
SHOE 27 D
PLATE
22 D
B 23
C 18 19 D
D 15 14 D
D 10 11 D
D7 6D
D2 HEADER 3C
back front
BARS
D1 4D
01/05/93 f500026
D8 5D
Fig. 11
D9 12 D
in Fig. 12. Install the nuts, and tighten
them until the end-tank contacts the gas- D 16 13 D
ket.
C 17 20 D
4.3 From the core side, install 5/16 x 3/4-inch
bolts through the holes labeled "B" D 24 21 D
in Fig. 12.
HORSE−
D 25 SHOE 28 C
4.4 From the core side, install 5/16 x 1-1/2
inch bolts through the holes labeled "C" PLATE
D 30 29 D
in Fig. 12. Loosely install the nuts.
A 32 31 A
4.5 From the tank side, install 5/16 x 1-inch A 33 34 A pf50_0024
bolts through the holes labeled "D"
in Fig. 12. Loosely install the nuts. Fig. 12
4.6 Turn over the radiator. Allow the left end- Following the same sequence, tighten all
tank to overhang the edge of the work- of the end-tank fasteners 15 lbf·ft (20
bench, so as to not damage the inlet. In- N·m).
stall the other header bar. From the core
5. Turn the radiator core front-face down on the
side, install the 5/16 x 1-1/2 inch bolts
workbench, then attach the right end-tank.
through the holes labeled "C" in Fig. 12;
loosely install the nuts. As marked earlier, 5.1 On the back of the radiator, insert a
loosely attach the headlight wiring harness header bar between the header and the
and aftercooler mounting brackets (if inboard ends of the side channels. Install
used) to the radiator. a horseshoe plate between the outboard
end of each side channel and the header.
4.7 From the tank side, install the bolts la-
beled "D" in Fig. 12. Loosely install the 5.2 Position the tank against the header gas-
nuts. ket, with the outlet facing to the rear.
4.8 Following the sequence in Fig. 12, tighten 5.3 While keeping the tank from moving, in-
all of the end-tank fasteners 120 lbf·in stall 5/16 x 3/4-inch bolts from the tank
(1360 N·cm). side through all of the holes labeled "A"

in Fig. 13. Be sure to install the clamps 5.7 Turn the radiator over, and allow the end-
for the low-coolant probe harness (if tank to overhang the edge of the work-
equipped) and the overflow tube, as refer- bench, so as not to damage the outlet.In-
enced earlier. Install the nuts, and tighten stall the other header bar. From the core
them until the tank contacts the gasket. side, install the 5/16 x 1-1/2 inch bolts la-
beled "C" in Fig. 13. As referenced earlier,
A 39 40 A attach the headlight wiring harness and
A 38 37 A aftercooler mounting brackets (if used);
D 35 36 C loosely install all of the nuts.
HORSE−
D 26 SHOE 27 D
5.8 From the tank side, install all of the bolts
PLATE labeled "D" in Fig. 13; loosely install the
D 23 22 D last of the nuts.
19 D 5.9 Following the sequence in Fig. 13, tighten

C 18
all of the end-tank fasteners 120 lbf·in
D 15 14 D (1360 N·cm).
D 10
Following the same sequence, tighten all
11 D
of the end-tank fasteners 15 lbf·ft (20
D7 6D N·m).
D2 3C
5.10 Position the surge tank on the top side
HEADER channel and install the mounting nuts
BARS finger-tight. Install the hose that connects
D1 4D
the surge tank to the radiator, and tighten
D8 5D the hose clamps.
D9 12 D RADIATORS WITH PLASTIC

D 16 13 D END-TANKS (See Fig. 3)
C 17 20 D 1. Install the plastic end-tanks on the radiator core.
B 24
21 D 1.1 With the radiator securely clamped in the
HORSE− disassembly/assembly fixture, header
SHOE 28 C sealing surface up, make sure the bottom
B 25 PLATE of the radiator core and tank assembly is
D 30 29 D completely supported, and that the header
A 32 31 A sealing surface is free of any dents, tool
03/04/96 A 33 34 A f500025 marks, or foreign particles.
Fig. 13 1.2 Lubricate a new sealing gasket with a

soap and water solution, and position the
5.4 From the core side, install the 5/16 x 3/4- gasket on the header sealing surface.
inch bolts in the holes labeled "B" See Fig. 6. To make sure the gasket is
in Fig. 13. not twisted, run a finger along the gasket
as it lays on the sealing surface. The mold
5.5 From the core side, install 5/16 x 1-1/2
lines of the gasket should be on the out-
inch bolts through holes labeled "C"
side and inside diameters of the gasket; if
you can feel a mold line cross over the
5.6 From the tank side, install 5/16 x 1-inch top of the gasket, the gasket is twisted.
bolts through the holes labeled "D"

1.3 Inspect the tank sealing flange. The flange

must be clean and free of defects. If the
sealing flange is damaged, replace the
tank.
1.4 Place the tank on the gasket, and tap the
tank with a rubber mallet or the heel of
your hand to seat the tank. Make sure the
tank ports are facing the correct direction.
1.5 Position the tank clamping cylinders
evenly across the top of the tank. Make
vent tube ports. See Fig. 4.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Too much pressure will crack the plas-
tic tank.
1.6 Apply pressure evenly across the top of
the tank until the tank-to-core sealing gas-
ket is compressed enough to show a
small gap between the bottom of the
ing flange. Apply only enough pressure to
compress the sealing gasket.
03/25/93 f500178
1.7 Place the T-bar into the T-bar groove in
Fig. 14
the disassembly/assembly fixture.
See Fig. 14.
1.8 Slide the wave form bar over the T-bar,
CAUTION
and center the bar in front of the wave CAUTION: In some places, especially around the
crimp slot. tank ports, the wave crimps may have to be
crimped with a screwdriver. When using a screw-
CAUTION driver, use care not to crack or gouge the plastic
tank.
CAUTION: Do not push the wave crimp until it
touches the side of the plastic tank, or the tank 1.11 Release the pressure from the tank, and
may crack. move the clamping cylinders off the radia-
1.9 Push the T-bar forward to crimp the head-
er’s edge until it almost touches the tank’s 1.12 Repeat the step to install the opposite
side. See Fig. 14. tank.
1.10 Slide the tools down the T-bar groove to 2. Install the radiator side channels.
the next wave crimp slot, and repeat steps 2.1 Slide the side channels onto the radiator
as required until all the wave crimps are core and tank assembly. If necessary,
crimped. spread the channels to clear the end-tank
bosses.
2.2 Using a rubber mallet and a punch, install
the four mounting pins through the side
channel holes and tanks.

2.3 Install four new spring clips to secure the

mounting pins in position. To install each
clip, place the clip over the end of the
mounting pin, and slide the clip until it en-
gages the groove in the pin and the open
end of the clip snaps over the edge of the
pin. If necessary, use a clamp to com-
press the side channel while installing the
clips.
2.4 Install the radiator brace rod (Fig. 3, Ref.
12) and secure it with the nuts and lock-
washers (Refs. 11 and 10).
3. Install the radiator in the vehicle. For instructions,
see Subject 100.
Pressure-Testing
1. Pressure-test the radiator.
1.1 Plug the inlet, outlet, and all other ports on
CAUTION
CAUTION: Don’t apply a higher amount of air
pressure than specified below; too much pres-
sure will damage the radiator core.
1.2 Remove the radiator cap, and install a
pressure regulator and gauge. Using a
hand pump, apply 20 psi (138 kPa) air
pressure through the filler neck.
1.3 Submerge the radiator in a tank of water
and check it for leaks. Remove the radia-
tor from the water.
1.4 Remove the plugs and the testing gauge,
and install the radiator cap. Repair the
radiator, if necessary.
2. Place the fan shroud against the back of the ra-
diator, and install the flatwashers and screws
holding it to the side channels; do not tighten the
screws snug at this time. Install the radiator,
see Subject 100.

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting If the engine coolant is dirty or its color is beginning

to fade, change it. It should also be replaced if it has
a dead fish smell.
NOTE: For additional troubleshooting informa-
tion, refer to the cooling system troubleshooting Be sure that the mixture is correct. Refer to the ve-
section in this manual. hicle maintenance manual for specifications.
VISUAL CHECK RADIATOR

It is a sound service practice to give the cooling sys- Radiator problems are limited to external leaks,
tem a quick visual check whenever you tilt the hood. which can be spotted visually, and internal block-
Look for signs of frayed or damaged belts and ages, assuming that there is good airflow and that
hoses. Also look for signs of visible leaks (or the the radiator is large enough to get the job done.
stains they leave), especially on the engine block. A To check for blockages, warm the engine to normal
final check is to look at the inside of the oil breather operating temperature. Shut down the engine, and
cap for signs of a milky substance-which means that pass your hand in front of the finned surface of the
coolant is leaking into the oil. radiator. If there is a blockage in the radiator it
should cause an obvious temperature difference from
AIR CONDITIONER CONDENSER one area of the core to another. An obvious differ-
Since the condenser is right in front of the radiator, ence between inlet and outlet temperatures, how-
air must pass through it to get to the radiator. That ever, is to be expected.
same air must then pass through the radiator. For
the heat transfer process to take place, the fins of
both the radiator and the condenser must be free of
blockages and deposits such as dirt or bugs. Clean
the surfaces with compressed air or water and a mild
laundry soap.
Also remember that because the two heat-transfer
parts are so close to each other, heat will pass back
and forth between them. A blocked condenser will
transfer its heat to the radiator and a hot radiator will
transfer its heat to the condenser.
RADIATOR CAP
The radiator cap is the most often ignored part in the
cooling system. If it is suspect, replace it. An inspec-
tion means checking the cap with a pressure tester.
A radiator cap in good condition will keep system
pressure at about 10 psi (69 kPa). A visual check is
also in order: look for signs of deterioration of the
inner gasket. Also look for cracks or breaks in the
spring retainer in the cap and for corrosion or depos-
its on the spring itself. If the spring is not in perfect
condition, it has probably lost tension; replace it.
ENGINE COOLANT
Check the level of the coolant in the radiator. It
should be up to the bottom of the radiator fill-neck.

Kysor™ Radiator Shutter 20.02
General Information and

Principles of Operation (See Fig. 1
and Fig. 2 )
08/03/94 f500002
Fig. 1, Shutter and Fan Clutch Piping and Wiring

The radiator shutter, together with the radiator fan, When the coolant warms to the setting of the shutter
maintains engine temperature by controlling airflow temperature switch, the switch opens. The shutter
through the radiator. The shutter is mounted in front solenoid valve closes and releases compressed air
of the radiator and single-row air conditioner con- from the shutter cylinder, allowing the spring to open
denser. the shutter.
The shutter opens when the coolant temperature is When the coolant warms to the setting of the fan
above the specified range, or when the air condi- clutch temperature switch, the fan clutch engages. It
tioner is turned on. The shutter must be open when remains engaged until the coolant temperature drops
the fan clutch is engaged. to the fan clutch temperature switch setting. If the
coolant temperature continues to drop, the shutter
The shutter is held open by a spring and is closed by
closes again.
an air-operated cylinder mounted on the shutter.
Compressed air to the cylinder is controlled by a so- NOTE: The temperature switches for both the
lenoid valve, which is controlled by a coolant tem-
perature switch.
shutter and the fan clutch are combined in a
single unit. The switches have different settings
When a cold engine is started, the temperature and operate independently. Refer to the table
switch is closed, activating the solenoid. The sole- in "Specifications, 400."
noid valve admits compressed air to the shutter cylin-
der, closing the shutter. On vehicles with an air conditioner ( Fig. 2 ), the
shutter solenoid valve is connected to the air condi-

20.02 Kysor™ Radiator Shutter
Fig. 2, Shutter and Fan Clutch Piping and Wiring With Air Conditioning
tioner electrical circuit by a shutter solenoid relay.
When the air conditioner is turned on, the relay
opens the shutter solenoid circuit. This closes the
solenoid valve, allowing the shutter to open and pre-
venting condenser overheating.

Replacement

2. Disconnect the air line from the shutter cylinder.
3. Remove the hex machine screws holding the
shutter to the radiator. Remove the shutter.
4. Using the hex machine screws, fasten the shut-
ters to the radiator. Tighten the screws 140 lbf·in
(1580 N·cm).
5. Connect the air line to the cylinder.
Fig. 1

Testing
Testing
1. Start the engine and run it at governed rpm.
Watch the coolant temperature gauge; coolant
temperature should stay within the normal oper-
ating range while the shutter and fan clutch com-
plete one cycle. For faster cycling, use a piece of
cardboard to partially block radiator airflow.
Check that the shutter and fan clutch engage at
the correct temperatures. Refer to the settings in
the table in "Specifications, 400." The shutter
must open before the fan clutch engages, and
close only after the fan clutch disengages.
2. Check that the shutter opens when the air condi-
tioner is turned on.

Specifications
See Fig. 1 for shutter and fan clutch piping and wir-
ing without air conditioning
See Fig. 2 for shutter and fan clutch piping and wir-
ing with air conditioning
08/03/94 f500002
Fig. 1, Shutter and Fan Clutch Piping and Wiring Without Air Conditioning
Engine Model
Temperature
Switch Caterpillar Cummins
°F (°C) °F (°C)
Shutter:
Open 200 (93) 185 (85)
Close 193 (89) 178 (81)
Fan Clutch:
Engage 205 (96) 200 (93)
Disengage 198 (92) 193 (98)
Table 1, Temperature Switch Operating Specifications

20.02 Kysor™ Radiator Shutter
Specifications
Fig. 2, Shutter and Fan Clutch Piping and Wiring With Air Conditioning

Horton Type HT 550 Fan Clutch 20.03
General Information and When the coolant temperature drops to the tempera-
ture switch cutoff setting, compressed air is ex-
Principles of Operation hausted from the cylinder, disengaging the clutch.
(See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) On vehicles with air conditioning, the fan clutch sole-
noid valve is connected to a fan cycling switch at the
The fan drive ( Fig. 3) is an air-operated, receiver-dryer. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the
temperature-controlled clutch for the engine cooling setting of the fan cycling switch, the switch opens
fan. Its purpose is to maintain engine temperature by and supplies power to the solenoid valve, which sup-
engaging or disengaging the fan. The fan clutch is plies air to the cylinder and engages the fan clutch.
disengaged by spring pressure when the coolant
temperature is below the specified temperature
range; the fan clutch is engaged by air pressure
when the coolant temperature rises above the range.
from secondary air tank
to circuit
breaker 4
1. Air Cylinder
1 2. Fan Clutch
3. Solenoid Valve (Normally Closed)
4. Temperature Switch (Normally Open)
12/06/94 f200233
Fig. 1, Fan Clutch Piping and Wiring, Vehicle Without Air Conditioning
Air pressure to an air cylinder on the fan clutch is
controlled by a solenoid valve; the solenoid valve is
controlled by a temperature switch that is installed in
the thermostat housing.
When a cold engine is started, air pressure to the
cylinder is restricted by the solenoid valve, and the
fan clutch remains disengaged.
When the coolant temperature rises to the tempera-
ture switch setting, the solenoid valve releases the
compressed air to the cylinder, and the fan clutch
engages.

20.03 Horton Type HT 550 Fan Clutch
from secondary air tank
3 5
2
to circuit
breaker
1. Air Cylinder
2. Fan Clutch
1 3. Fan Cycling Switch at Receiver−Dryer
(Normally Open)
4. Solenoid Valve (Normally Closed)
5. Temperature Switch (Normally Open)
12/06/94 f200234
Fig. 2, Fan Clutch Piping and Wiring, Vehicle With Air Conditioning
PISTON
FRICTION AIR CHAMBER

FACING
O−RING
SEAL
ROTARY
AIR UNION
03/22/93 f500005
Fig. 3

Removal (See Fig. 1) 2. Apply Loctite® 620, or an equivalent, on the

threads of the capscrews that attach the fan
clutch assembly to the pulley. Install the wash-
ers, then position the fan clutch assembly on the
pulley.
WARNING 3. Tighten the fan clutch assembly mounting fasten-
WARNING: Use care when loosening the air line ers 35 lbf·ft (50 N·m).
fitting. The line could be under pressure and may 4. Attach the air line to the fan clutch, and tighten
have dirt or sludge in the air stream. If quickly the fitting 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm).
disconnected, the line may whip, possibly caus-
ing eye injury or other bodily injury. 5. Tilt the radiator upright.
2. Disconnect the air line from the fan clutch cylin- On COEs, install, but do not tighten, the flanged
der. bolts and nuts in the stay rods at the radiator
side channels. Tighten the locknuts on the
3. If necessary, disconnect any radiator hoses that square-neck bolts 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m); then tighten
may interfere with fan removal. the stay rod bolts 80 lbf·ft (110 N·m).
NOTE: Use a drain bucket to catch any coolant On 120 Conventionals, install the radiator brace
that may spill. rods; tighten the locknuts 70 lbf·ft (95 N·m).
4. On 120 Conventionals, tilt the hood halfway and Tighten the locknuts on each lower support isola-
support it. Disconnect the hood cables from the tor 190 lbf·ft (260 N·m). Support the hood in the
radiator brace-rod brackets. Tilt the hood all the half-tilt position and attach the hood cables to the
way, and support it. radiator brace-rod brackets.
Disconnect the three radiator brace rods from the 6. Connect any radiator hoses that were discon-
brackets on top of the radiator assembly. Loosen nected earlier. Make sure that the radiator is
the locknuts on each lower support isolator. filled with coolant to the bottom of the filler neck.
On COEs, loosen the locknut on the square-neck 7. Check the fan clutch for proper operation. For
bolt in each lower support isolator. Remove the instructions, refer to the cooling system section
flanged bolts and nuts from the stay rods at the in the vehicle maintenance manual.
radiator side channels.
5. With one person holding each side of the radia-
tor, tilt the top of the radiator forward, until the
fan shroud clears the fan.
6. Remove the six capscrews and the flatwashers
and lockwashers (Refs. 6, 7, and 11) that attach
the fan and fan clutch assembly to the pulley.
Remove the fan and fan clutch assembly.
7. Remove the nuts and washers (Refs. 8 and 9)
that attach the fan to the fan clutch. Remove the
fan.
Installation (See Fig. 1)
1. Position the fan on the fan clutch and install the

nuts and washers. Tighten the nuts 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m).

2
1
ACCESSORY DRIVE
1. Bolt 3
2. Nut 6
4 7
3. Pulley
4. V−Belt
5. Gasket 11
6. Lockwasher 5
7. Flatwasher
8. Nut 12
9. Washer 8 9
10. Fan
11. Capscrew
12. Horton Fan
Clutch
10
NOTE: Some fasteners

omitted for clarity. FAN SHROUD
f200010
Fig. 1, Horton HT 550 Fan Clutch (Cummins NTC Installation Shown)

Disassembly and Assembly
Disassembly (See Fig. 1)
Fig. 1, Horton HT 550 Fan Clutch

1. Remove the fan and fan clutch assembly from
the vehicle. Refer to Subject 100.
2. Remove the three panhead screws and the re-
taining washer ( Fig. 2) from the air chamber
assembly.
RETAINING WASHER
3. Remove the rotary air union and O-ring.
See Fig. 3.
4. Remove the six socket-head capscrews from the
air chamber assembly. See Fig. 4.
5. Separate the piston and air chamber assemblies.
See Fig. 5.
6. Remove the compression springs.
7. Remove the O-ring seal from the air chamber.
See Fig. 6. 12/02/94 f200011
8. Remove the six capscrews and washers that at-
tach the friction facing to the piston assembly. Fig. 2
See Fig. 7.
9. Remove the socket-head capscrew from the
mounting bracket and separate the mounting
bracket, drive sleeve, and friction disc.

ROTARY AIR UNION
Fig. 5
12/02/94 f200012
Fig. 3
Fig. 6
4. Using a new friction facing, install the capscrews
Fig. 4 and washers. Following a star pattern, tighten
the capscrews 20 lbf·in (220 N·cm).
Assembly (See Fig. 1) NOTE: The friction facing must be replaced if its
thickness is less than 7/32-inch (5.6 mm).
1. Apply Loctite® 242, or an equivalent, to the
threads of the mounting bracket socket-head 5. Remove any dust and debris from the air cham-
capscrew. ber.
2. Place a new drive sleeve, and the friction disc on 6. Coat a new O-ring and the air chamber contact
the mounting bracket. Install the socket-head surface with an approved lubricant; see Specifi-
capscrew and tighten it 45 to 50 lbf·ft (60 to 65 cations, 400. Install the O-ring in the air cham-
N·m). ber.
3. Apply Loctite 242, or an equivalent, on the 7. Install new compression springs. See Fig. 8.
threads of the capscrews that attach the friction
8. Press the piston and air chamber assemblies
facing to the piston assembly.
together. Position the piston and air chamber as-
sembly on the drive sleeve. Install the six socket-

Fig. 9
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
head capscrews. Following a star pattern, tighten
the capscrews 20 lbf·ft (27 N·m).
9. Coat a new O-ring seal ( Fig. 9, Ref. 1) with an
approved lubricant. Place the O-ring seal and a
new rotary air union (Ref. 2) in the air chamber.
Install the retaining washer (Ref. 3) and the three
panhead screws (Ref. 4).
10. Install the fan and clutch assembly on the en-
gine. Refer to Subject 100.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Air Is Leaking from the Fan Clutch

The face seal or air cartridge (Fig. 1, Ref.
Install a new seal kit.
A) is bad.
The O-ring seals (Fig. 1, Ref. B or C) are
bad.
Problem—The Fan Clutch Fails to Engage

There’s no power to the fan clutch control
Check all electrical connections, and repair or replace wiring as needed.
circuit.
The engine temperature switch is
Make sure the switch is normally open, not normally closed. Replace the
damaged or an incorrect sensor has been
switch if it is damaged or if the switch is the wrong type.
installed.
The solenoid valve is malfunctioning. Replace the solenoid valve.
The fan clutch is leaking. Install a new seal kit.
The air supply to the fan clutch is Make sure the fan clutch air lines are not leaking or pinched. Repair the lines
restricted. as needed.
Problem—The Fan Clutch Engages, But the Engine Still Overheats

There is an air restriction in front of the fan Check for incorrect radiator shutter operation, winterfronts, or any other air
clutch. restrictions.
There is a problem somewhere else in the
Refer to the cooling system troubleshooting section in this group.
cooling system.
Problem—The Fan Clutch Does Not Disengage

installed.
A restricted air line doesn’t allow air to Make sure the air lines are not pinched or plugged. Repair the air lines as
vent from the clutch. needed.
The solenoid is not exhausting. Make sure the solenoid exhaust port is not plugged.
The piston friction disc is seized due to Replace the piston friction disc, and make sure the fan clutch air supply is
contamination or worn splines. clean.
Problem—The Fan Clutch Cycles Frequently

The fan clutch control circuit has a loose
Check all wiring connections, and repair the circuit as needed.
connection or is poorly grounded.

Troubleshooting

Check the fan clutch control setting of the temperature switch, according to
The temperature control settings are
the engine installed in the vehicle. Repair or replace the temperature switch
incorrect.
as needed.
The fan cycling switch at the receiver- Check the switch at the receiver-dryer, and if needed, replace the switch with
dryer is set too low. a switch with a higher setting.
The temperature switch is malfunctioning. Replace the temperature switch.

cooling system.
10/21/92 f200196
Fig. 1, Possible Fan Clutch Air Leaks

Specifications
Torque Values
Torque
Fastener
Fan Nut 15 (20) —
Air Cylinder Nut — 84 (940)
Air Chamber Capscrew 20 (27) —
Friction Facing Capscrew — 20 (220)
Fan Clutch Mounting
35 (47) —
Capscrews
Mounting Bracket Socket-
45-50 (61-68) —
Head Capscrew
Approved Lubricants
Parker O-Ring Lube
Horton O-Ring Lube No. 13220
Wiring
See Fig. 1 for the fan clutch wiring diagram.

Specifications
81C
360 to fan control relay
360
149
360
149
F4A M4A
F6A M6A
F6C M6C
ABCD DE FA BC BC F DE A
18
OPT G
OPT D
OPT E
OPT A
OPT B
OPT F
351
325
373
369
367
361
360
324
368
173
360
10A IGN CONT
CIRCUIT BREAKER
234
234
81C
149
M32A
M5B
C01
D13
C14
C12
C15
C08
C05
C07
C06
C03
C11
C13
C02
C09
D15
D07
D16
D04
C04
D12
D08
D01
D14
D11
D06
D05
D10
D09
D02
D03
C16
C10
234
LIGHTBAR
F1D M1D
360
A FAN CONTROL
81C
360
360
360
RELAY
149
205A GND
M2A
M2A
M2A F2A
AB AB AB 234
M2D F2D
M2J F2J
F2A
F2A
A B B A
81C
360
360
149
360
360
B C A F D E B C A F D E
FAN CONTROL MED PRESSURE SWITCH

SOLENOID VALVE ASSY. (A/C CYCLING)
DASH SWITCH WITHOUT DASH SWITCH WITH
INDICATOR LIGHT INDICATOR LIGHT
05/13/94 f540487
Fig. 1, Fan Clutch Wiring Diagram

Horton Advantage Fan Clutch 20.04
General Information and When the coolant temperature rises to the tempera-
ture switch setting, the switch provides power to the
Principles of Operation solenoid valve, and the valve releases compressed
air to engage the fan clutch.
The fan drive is a temperature-controlled, air-
When the coolant temperature drops to the tempera-
operated clutch for the engine cooling fan. It controls
ture switch cutoff setting, the solenoid stops the com-
engine temperature by engaging or disengaging the
pressed air, and the clutch disengages.
fan. Internal spring pressure disengages the fan
clutch when the coolant temperature is below the On vehicles with air conditioning, the fan clutch sole-
specified temperature range; internal air pressure noid valve is connected to a fan cycling switch at the
engages the fan clutch when the coolant temperature receiver-dryer. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the
rises above that range. Freightliner uses two models setting of the fan cycling switch, the switch supplies
of Horton Type S fan clutches: The type S, and the power to the solenoid valve, which supplies air to
type HT/S. See Fig. 1. engage the fan clutch.
Some models of Horton type S and HT/S fan
clutches include System Sentry™ fuses that protect
the fan clutch from overheating. See Fig. 4. The Sys-
tem Sentry fuse is a brass fitting in the piston friction
disc; the fitting uses lead alloy solder to hold a brass
plug. If anything causes the fan clutch to slip exces-
A sively, heat from the slippage will melt the solder and
release the plug. Air pressure inside the clutch will
escape, and the clutch will release before heat
1 build-up can damage the clutch bearings. The fuse is
balanced by two counterweights.
If the fan clutch includes the System Sentry fuse,
and the clutch will not engage, check to see if the
fuse is melted, and check to see what might be mak-
ing the fan clutch slip excessively.
For the fan clutch model number and serial number,
refer to the side of the air chamber. See Fig. 5.
B
12/15/93 f200262
A. 7.5 inches (187.5 mm)

B. 9.5 inches (237.5 mm)
1. "S" Type Fan Clutch
2. "HT/S" Type Fan Clutch
Fig. 1
Air pressure to the fan clutch is controlled by a sole-
noid valve; the solenoid valve is controlled by a tem-
perature switch that is installed in the thermostat
housing. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
When you start a cold engine, the solenoid valve re-
stricts air pressure to the cylinder, and the fan clutch
remains disengaged.

20.04 Horton Advantage Fan Clutch
A 3
07/18/94 f200019a
A. To the circuit breaker. B. From the secondary air tank.
1. Fan Clutch 2. Solenoid Valve 3. Temperature Switch

2
4
1
A
07/18/94 f200020a
A. To the circuit breaker. B. From the secondary air tank.
1. Fan Clutch 3. Solenoid Valve
2. Fan Cycling Switch at the Receiver-Drier 4. Temperature Switch
2
1
03/30/95 f200283
1. System Sentry Fuse
2. Counterweight
03/13/95 f200300
Fig. 4, Horton Fan Clutch with System Sentry Fuse
1. Model Number
2. Serial Number
Fig. 5, Fan Clutch Information, Model HTS 981144

Shown

Removal to hold the assembly in place, and allow for later

fan belt adjustment.
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. 2. Install the fan belts. For instructions, refer to
Group 01.
WARNING 3. Tighten the clutch and hub assembly mounting
fasteners 85 lbf·ft (115 N·m ).
Use care when loosening the air line fitting. The
line could be under pressure and may have dirt 4. Apply Loctite® 242, or an equivalent, to the
or sludge in the air stream. If quickly discon- threads of the fan attachment bolts. Position the
nected, the line may whip, possibly causing eye fan on the fan clutch. Install the nuts and tighten
injury or other bodily injury. them 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m ).
2. Disconnect the air line from the mounting bracket 5. Tilt the radiator upright.
assembly. On COEs , install, but do not tighten, the flanged
3. If necessary, disconnect any radiator hoses that bolts and nuts in the stay rods at the radiator
may interfere with fan removal. side channels. Tighten the locknuts on the
square-neck bolts 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m ); then tighten
NOTE: Use a drain bucket to catch any coolant the stay rod bolts 80 lbf·ft (110 N·m ).
that may spill.
On Conventionals, install the radiator brace rods;
4. On Conventionals, tilt the hood half-way and tighten the locknuts 70 lbf·ft (95 N·m ). Tighten
support it. Disconnect the hood cables from the the locknuts on each lower support isolator 190
radiator brace-rod brackets. Tilt the hood all the lbf ·ft (260 N·m). Support the hood in the half-tilt
way, and support it. position and attach the hood cables to the radia-
Disconnect the three radiator brace rods from the tor brace-rod brackets.
brackets on top of the radiator assembly. Loosen 6. Attach the air line to the mounting bracket as-
the locknuts on each lower support isolator. sembly, and tighten the fitting 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm
On COEs, loosen the locknut on the square-neck ).
bolt in each lower support isolator. Remove the 7. Connect any radiator hoses that were discon-
flanged bolts and nuts from the stay rods at the nected earlier. Make sure that the radiator is
radiator side channels. filled with coolant to the bottom of the filler neck.
5. With one person holding each side of the radia- 8. Check the fan clutch for proper operation. For
tor, tilt the top of the radiator forward, until the instructions, refer to the cooling system section
fan shroud clears the fan. in the vehicle maintenance manual.
6. Remove the nuts that attach the fan to the fan
clutch assembly. Remove the fan.
7. Remove the fan belts. For instructions, refer to
Group 01.
8. Remove the bolts (or nuts) and washers that at-
tach the fan clutch and hub assembly to the en-
gine. Remove the fan clutch and hub assembly.
Installation
1. Position the fan clutch and hub assembly on the
engine and install the bolts (or nuts) and wash-
ers. Tighten the mounting fasteners just enough

Fan Clutch Major Rebuild
Disassembly (See Fig. 1) If hexbolts were used to attach the fan, install
two of the removed hexbolts in the air chamber
so that a screwdriver can be used to keep the air
NOTE: This procedure involves a major rebuild chamber from rotating. See Fig. 3.
of the Horton Advantage fan clutch, using parts
from the manufacturer’s Major or Super Kit. If Remove the socket-head capscrews from the air
you are replacing just the air cartridge, System chamber.
Sentry® fuse, or the face seal, go to Sub- 4. If applicable, remove the two hexbolts previously
ject 120.
8
7
6
19 20
5 22
18
4 17 21
3
1 14 15
2
13
16
12
11
10
9
23
03/30/2000 f200509
1. Mounting Bracket Assembly 9. Rear Hub Bearing 17. Face Seal
2. Rear Sheave Bearing 10. Bearing Spacer 18. Small O-Ring
3. Inner and Outer Bearing Spacers 11. Splined Hub 19. Air Chamber
4. Forward Sheave Bearing 12. Forward Hub Bearing 20. Socket-Head Capscrew
5. Sheave 13. Piston Friction Disc 21. Hexbolt (some vehicles equipped
6. Friction Facing 14. Large O-Ring with studs)
7. Journal Spacer 15. Locknut 22. Rubber Umbrella Valve
8. Socket-Head Capscrew 16. Air Cartridge Assembly 23. Disc and Piston Assembly
Fig. 1, Horton Advantage Fan Clutch

1. Remove the fan and clutch assembly from the installed.
vehicle. For instructions, refer to Subject 100.
2. Clamp the fan clutch in a vise. See Fig. 2. WARNING
3. On some vehicles, the fan clutch has threaded Apply air pressure slowly to the fan clutch. A
studs on the air chamber and the fan is attached sudden blast of air might blow the air chamber
with nuts. On other vehicles, the fan is attached off the clutch, resulting in possible injury.
to the air chamber with hexbolts.

03/23/2000 f200510
Fig. 2, Fan Clutch Placed in a Vise
03/23/2000 f200512
A Fig. 4, Remove the Air Chamber

10. Remove the adjusting nut. See Fig. 5.
03/27/2000 f200511
A. Installed Hexbolts
Fig. 3, Remove the Socket-Head Capscrews

5. Connect a shop air hose to the cylinder inlet.
See Fig. 4 . Slowly apply air pressure, and re-
move the air chamber assembly.
03/23/2000 f200513
6. Remove and discard the O-rings from the air
chamber and the piston friction disc. Clean the
Fig. 5, Remove the Adjusting Nut
O-ring contact surfaces.
7. Remove the face seal from the air chamber. 11. Remove the disc and piston assembly, and the
journal spacer. See Fig. 6.
8. Remove the System Sentry fuse from the piston
friction disc. Note that it is a left-hand thread. 12. Slide the sheave and bearings off the mounting
bracket assembly. See Fig. 7.
9. Remove the rubber umbrella valve from the air
chamber. 13. Remove the socket-head capscrews from the
friction facing. Remove the friction facing.

07/13/94 f200027a
Fig. 6, Remove the Disc and Piston 07/13/94 f200029a
Fig. 8, Remove the Retaining Ring
07/13/94 f200030a
Fig. 9, Remove the Air Cartridge Assembly

07/13/94 f200028a
Fig. 7, Slide Off the Sheave and Bearings Assembly

14. Remove the retaining ring from the air cartridge 1. Coat the new sheave bearings with grease and
assembly. See Fig. 8. press them into the sheave.
Remove the cartridge assembly from the mount- NOTE: Some models have a spacer between
ing bracket assembly. See Fig. 9. the bearings. Install the spacer if equipped.
15. Support the sheave and press out the bearings. 2. Install a new air cartridge assembly in the mount-
ing bracket assembly. Note that the retaining ring

is curved. Make sure the ring is installed with the

convex surface toward the air cartridge. See
Fig. 10 .
1 1
3
3 A
03/27/2000 f200515
A. Convex Surface of Retaining Ring Toward the Air 11/24/93 f200033
Cartridge
1. Retaining Ring Fig. 11, Check the Journal Lip
2. O-Rings
3. Air Cartridge
Fig. 10, Air Cartridge Assembly

3. Slide the sheave and bearings onto the mounting
bracket assembly.
4. Install a new friction facing onto the sheave. Fol-
lowing a star pattern, tighten the socket-head
capscrews 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm).
CAUTION
Never fill more than one-third of the bearing void 03/23/2000 f200514
with grease. Too much grease can cause over-
heating and possible bearing damage. Fig. 12, Install New O-Rings
5. Install the journal spacer, and the disc and piston 12. Slide the air chamber assembly onto the clutch.
assembly. Make sure that the lip on the journal If applicable, install two of the hexbolts that hold
spacer is facing up. See Fig. 11. the fan in place.
6. Install the adjusting nut. Tighten 150 lbf·ft (203 13. Using a screwdriver to keep the air chamber
N·m). from rotating, install the socket-head capscrews.
7. Remove any dust and debris from the air cham- Following a star pattern, tighten 15 lbf·ft (20
ber. N·m).
8. Coat the new O-rings with an approved lubricant 14. If applicable, remove the two hexbolts previously
and install them. See Fig. 12. installed.
9. Install the new face seal in the air chamber. 15. Install the fan and clutch assembly on the en-
Tighten 50 lbf·in (565 N·cm). gine. For instructions, refer to Subject 100.
10. Install the new rubber umbrella valve in the air

chamber.
11. Install the new System Sentry fuse in the piston
friction disc. Note that it is a left-hand thread.

Fan Clutch Minor Rebuild
Disassembly
NOTE: This procedure involves replacing only
the air cartridge, System Sentry® fuse, the face
seal, and the O-rings, using parts from the A
manufacturer’s Seal Kit. If doing a major rebuild,
go to Subject 110.
1. Remove the fan and clutch assembly from the
vehicle. For instructions, refer to Subject 100.
2. Clamp the fan clutch in a vise. See Fig. 1.
03/27/2000 f200511
A. Installed Hexbolts
Fig. 2, Remove the Socket-Head Capscrews
5. Connect a shop air hose to the cylinder inlet.
See Fig. 3 . Slowly apply air pressure, and re-
move the air chamber assembly.
03/23/2000 f200510
Fig. 1, Fan Clutch Placed in a Vise 1
3. On some vehicles, the fan clutch has threaded

studs on the air chamber and the fan is attached
with nuts. On other vehicles, the fan is attached
with hexbolts.
If hexbolts were used to attach the fan, install
two of the removed hexbolts in the air chamber
so a screwdriver can be used to keep the air
chamber from rotating. See Fig. 2.
Remove the socket-head capscrews from the air
chamber.
4. If applicable, remove the two hexbolts previously
installed.
04/19/2000 f200512a
WARNING 1. Face Seal
Apply air pressure slowly to the fan clutch. A Fig. 3, Remove the Air Chamber
sudden blast of air might blow the air chamber
off the clutch, resulting in possible injury.

6. Remove and discard the O-rings from the air

chamber and the piston friction disc. Clean the
O-ring contact surfaces.
7. Remove the face seal from the air chamber. See
Fig. 3 .
8. Remove the System Sentry fuse from the piston
9. Remove the rubber umbrella valve from the air
chamber.
10. Remove the adjusting nut. See Fig. 4.
07/13/94 f200029a
Fig. 5, Remove the Retaining Ring
03/23/2000 f200513
Fig. 4, Remove the Adjusting Nut

11. Remove the retaining ring from the air cartridge
assembly. See Fig. 5.
Remove the cartridge assembly from the mount-
ing bracket assembly. See Fig. 6.
Assembly
07/13/94 f200030a
1. Install a new air cartridge assembly in the mount-
ing bracket assembly. Note that the retaining ring Fig. 6, Remove the Air Cartridge Assembly
is curved. Make sure the ring is installed with the
5. Install the new face seal in the air chamber.
convex surface toward the air cartridge. See
Tighten 50 lbf·in (565 N·cm).
Fig. 7 .
6. Install the new rubber umbrella valve in the air
2. Install the adjusting nut. Tighten 150 lbf·ft (203
chamber.
N·m).
7. Install the new System Sentry fuse in the piston
3. Remove any dust and debris from the air cham-
ber.
8. Slide the air chamber assembly onto the clutch.
4. Coat the new O-rings with an approved lubricant
If applicable, install two of the hexbolts that held
and install them. See Fig. 8.
the fan in place.

1 1
3
3 A
03/27/2000 f200515
A. Convex Surface of Retaining Ring Toward the Air
Cartridge
1. Retaining Ring
2. O-Rings
3. Air Cartridge
Fig. 7, Air Cartridge Assembly
03/23/2000 f200514
Fig. 8, Install New O-Rings

9. Using a screwdriver to keep the air chamber
from rotating, install the socket-head capscrews.
Following a star pattern, tighten 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m).
10. If applicable, remove the two hexbolts previously
installed.
11. Install the fan and clutch assembly on the en-
gine. For instructions, refer to Subject 100.

Troubleshooting

The face seal or air cartridge (Fig. 1, Ref.
A) is bad.
The O-ring seals (Fig. 1, Ref. B or C) are
bad.

There’s no power to the fan clutch control
Check all electrical connections, and repair or replace wiring as needed.
circuit.
installed.

installed.
A restricted air line doesn’t allow air to Make sure the air lines are not pinched or plugged. Repair the air lines as
The piston friction disc is seized due to Replace the piston friction disc, and make sure the fan clutch air supply is
contamination or worn splines. clean.

The fan clutch control circuit has a loose
Check all wiring connections, and repair the circuit as needed.
Check the fan clutch control setting of the temperature switch, according to
The temperature control settings are
the engine installed in the vehicle. Repair or replace the temperature switch
incorrect.
as needed.

Troubleshooting

cooling system.
10/21/92 f200196
Fig. 1, Possible Fan Clutch Air Leaks

Specifications
Torque Values
Fastener Torque
Fan Nut 15 (20) —
Air Chamber
20 (27) —
Capscrew
Friction Facing
— 20 (220)
Capscrew
Fan Clutch Mounting
35 (47) —
Capscrews
Mounting Bracket
Socket-Head 45-50 (61-68) —
Capscrew
Approved Greases
Amoco Rykon Premium No. 2 EP
Chevron SRI-2
Texaco Premium RB No. 2
Exxon Unirex No. 2
Shell Dolium Grease No. 2
Approved Lubricants
Parker O-Ring Lube
Horton O-Ring Lube No. 13220
Wiring
See Fig. 1 for the fan clutch wiring diagram.

Specifications
81C
360 to fan control relay
360
149
360
149
F4A M4A
F6A M6A
F6C M6C
ABCD DE FA BC BC F DE A
18
OPT G
OPT D
OPT E
OPT A
OPT B
OPT F
351
325
373
369
367
361
360
324
368
173
360
10A IGN CONT
CIRCUIT BREAKER
234
234
81C
149
M32A
M5B
C01
D13
C14
C12
C15
C08
C05
C07
C06
C03
C11
C13
C02
C09
D15
D07
D16
D04
C04
D12
D08
D01
D14
D11
D06
D05
D10
D09
D02
D03
C16
C10
234
LIGHTBAR
F1D M1D
360
A FAN CONTROL
81C
360
360
360
RELAY
149
205A GND
M2A
M2A
M2A F2A
AB AB AB 234
M2D F2D
M2J F2J
F2A
F2A
A B B A
81C
360
360
149
360
360
B C A F D E B C A F D E
FAN CONTROL MED PRESSURE SWITCH

SOLENOID VALVE ASSY. (A/C CYCLING)
DASH SWITCH WITHOUT DASH SWITCH WITH
INDICATOR LIGHT INDICATOR LIGHT
05/13/94 f540487
Fig. 1, Fan Clutch Wiring Diagram

Eaton Viscous Clutch Fan Drive 20.05
General Information and

The fan drive senses the temperature of air behind
the radiator core, and engages or disengages the fan
depending on this temperature. An increase or de-
crease in the amount of heat from the radiator cool-
ant causes a change in the air temperature behind
the radiator core. A fan drive sensor detects the tem-
perature change; the fan clutch is engaged when
more cooling (airflow) is needed, and disengaged
when there is enough cooling.
The fan clutch uses a fluid shearing action to supply
the force needed to turn the fan blade. A one-piece
input shaft and disc assembly is bolted to a fan hub;
the disc is lined with ring-shaped grooves that face
matching grooves on the inside of the drive chamber.
See Fig. 1. Two bearing assemblies allow the drive
chamber to be free-wheeling in relation to the input
disc.
The centrifugal force of the spinning input disc
causes silicon fluid to flow from the drive chamber to
the outer edges of the disc. The spacing between the
input disc and the drive chamber remains the same,
which controls the fluid shearing action as the fluid is
forced over the ridges between the grooves. This
shearing action causes the drive chamber and fan
blade to spin, increasing in speed as all of the
grooves are filled with silicon.
The relative speeds of the input disc and the drive
chamber, the configuration of the outer edge of the
input disc, and spacing between the drive chamber
wall and the edge of the input disc, all contribute to
the pumping system built into the clutch drive. This
pumping system causes a natural circulation of the
fluid away from the drive chamber, and directs it into
a reservoir chamber. When the temperature of the air
leaving the radiator is low, a sensor built into the res-
ervoir closes off a discharge port so that the fluid
cannot flow back into the groove area, reducing the
fan speed to a controlled minimum value. As the
temperature of the air leaving the radiator rises, the
sensor opens the port, allowing fluid into the groove
area, which increases the fan speed.

20.05 Eaton Viscous Clutch Fan Drive
Fig. 1

Inspection and Operation Checking
Inspection (10°C). Ideally, a temperature probe placed

about 1/2 inch (13 mm) from the fan clutch sen-
sor is needed to see if the fan clutch engages at
CAUTION the right temperature.
CAUTION: If the fan drive assembly is damaged, 2. Disconnect any hydraulic pumps (such as the
replace the unit as soon as possible. Operating a power steering pump) to prevent oil overheating.
seized or otherwise damaged clutch reduces fuel 3. Get a piece of cardboard that is large enough to
economy, and could cause serious engine dam- block the entire front of the radiator. Cut a round
age. seven-inch hole in the cardboard; locate the hole
so that it lines up with the fan clutch. Don’t put
The fan drive is only one part of the cooling system the cardboard in front of the radiator yet.
and will function right if all the other parts of the sys-
tem are working right. All parts of the system should 4. Turn off the air conditioner, if so equipped. Start
be checked if there is a cooling problem. If there are the engine, and let it idle until the oil pressure is
damaged or inoperative parts, replace them with new normal.
parts.
1. With the engine off, rotate the fan at least one WARNING
full turn by hand. It should have a smooth,
steady drag. If it doesn’t, replace the fan clutch. WARNING: Before starting the engine, make sure
people’s hands and all other objects are away
2. Check for physical damage to the fan or fan from the fan blades. It is extremely dangerous to
shroud. get too close to the fan blades when the engine
3. Check the fan clutch mounting. is on, because the fan could start operating with-
out warning. Don’t try to restrict fan blade rota-
3.1 Check the torque of the nuts holding the tion when the engine is on.
two halves of the fan clutch together.
They should be tightened 25 to 30 lbf·ft 5. As soon as there is normal oil pressure, bring
(34 to 41 N·m). the engine up to high idle (about 80 percent of
governed engine speed) and lock the throttle at
3.2 Check for correct drive belt alignment and this speed.
tension. For specifications, refer to the
engine section (drive belts) in this If the engine has been idle for more than eight
manual. hours, the fan clutch may engage as soon as the
engine is started. If this happens, the usual noise
3.3 Check for wear of the fan clutch bearings. from the fan will be heard; the noise will stop af-
There should be no side-to-side or inter five minutes or less, when the fan clutch dis-
and-out movement of the fan clutch. engages.
4. Do all of the checks in the cooling system 6. After the fan clutch disengages, put the card-
troubleshooting section in this group. board in front of the radiator.
5. Check the fuel flow rate and exhaust tempera- 7. Look at the temperature gauge and note at what
ture. Overfueling could cause engine overheating point the engine thermostat opens. As the engine
and high exhaust temperatures. warms up, the coolant temperature will rise
steadily and then seem to level off after the ther-
Operation Checking mostat opens. It will then start rising again, be-
fore the fan clutch engages.
Use the following procedure to check for correct en- 8. Keep watching the coolant temperature and, if
gagement and disengagement of the fan clutch. possible, the temperature of the air in front of the
1. Coolant temperature in the radiator should be fan clutch, until the clutch engages. Note the
below 140°F (60°C) before you start the test; the temperature(s) at which the clutch engages.
outside temperature should be above 50°F When the air at the fan clutch sensor rises to
about 165° to 170°F (74° to 77°C) and the cool-

Inspection and Operation Checking
ant rises to about 205°F (96°C), the fan should

engage. With the clutch engaged, the coolant
temperature will keep rising, at a slower rate, as
long as the radiator is blocked with cardboard.
9. Remove the cardboard from in front of the radia-
tor. Keep watching the coolant temperature while
the clutch is engaged; you should notice a de-
crease after the cardboard is removed.
10. When the coolant temperature drops to about
190°F (88°C), the fan should disengage.
If the coolant temperature keeps rising, even
though the fan is engaged and the cardboard
has been removed, the fan clutch may be work-
ing okay; there may be a problem in another part
of the cooling system.
IMPORTANT: If the air temperature in front of
the clutch is being tested, and it does not rise
as the coolant temperature rises, then the prob-
lem could be a clogged radiator or a stuck en-
gine thermostat.
If the coolant temperature still rises, even though ev-
erything described above checks out okay, use a
stroboscope to check the fan pulley speed and the
peak fan speed. The fan speed should be at least 85
percent of the fan pulley speed when the clutch is
fully engaged.
Example:
2160 = Fan pulley speed
x .85
1836 = 85 percent of fan pulley speed
Fan speed must be greater than 1836 rpm when the
fan clutch is fully engaged.

Viscous Fan Clutch Replacement, Fan Blade
Replacement
Fig. 1
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. flanged bolts and nuts from the stay rods at the
radiator side channels.
2. If necessary, disconnect any radiator hoses that
may interfere with fan removal. 4. With one person holding each side of the radia-
tor, tilt the top of the radiator forward, until the
NOTE: Use a drain bucket to catch any coolant fan shroud clears the fan.
that may spill.
5. Remove the capscrews and lockwashers holding
3. On 120 Conventionals, tilt the hood halfway and the clutch to the fan hub. Remove the clutch
support it. Disconnect the hood cables from the from the engine.
radiator brace-rod brackets. Tilt the hood all the
way, and support it. 6. Remove the nuts and lockwashers holding the
fan blade to the clutch. Remove the blade.
Disconnect the three radiator brace rods from the
brackets on top of the radiator assembly. Loosen 7. Install the fan blade, lockwashers, and nuts on
the locknuts on each lower support isolator. the clutch. Tighten the nuts 13 to 17 lbf·ft (18 to
23 N·m).
On COEs, loosen the locknut on the square-neck
bolt in each lower support isolator. Remove the

Viscous Fan Clutch Replacement, Fan Blade
Replacement
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not allow the capscrews in the fan
clutch housing to loosen while you attach the fan
blade. If they are loosened, there will be a loss of
fluid, causing miscalibration and a shortened fan
life.
NOTE: Use only approved fans, as specified in
the Freightliner Parts Book . Never go over the
maximum input speeds, and do not make
changes to the engine that will raise the operat-
ing speed of the fan.
8. Install the fan clutch assembly on the fan hub.
Make sure the assembly is aligned okay, using
the pilot on the fan hub.
9. Install the lockwashers and capscrews holding
the fan clutch assembly to the fan hub. Tighten
the capscrews 25 to 30 lbf·ft (34 to 41 N·m).
10. Tilt the radiator upright.
On COEs, install, but do not tighten the flanged
bolts and nuts in the stay rods at the radiator
side channels. Tighten the locknuts on the
square-neck bolts 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m); then tighten
the stay rod bolts 80 lbf·ft (110 N·m).
On 120 Conventionals, install the radiator brace
rods; tighten the locknuts 70 lbf·ft (95 N·m).
Tighten the locknuts on each lower support isola-
tor 190 lbf·ft (260 N·m). Support the hood in the
half-tilt position and attach the hood cables to the
radiator brace-rod brackets.
11. Connect any radiator hoses that were discon-
nected earlier. Make sure that the radiator is
filled with coolant to the bottom of the filler neck.

Kysor Dynair® On/Off Fan Clutch 20.06
General Information
The fan drive is an air-operated, temperature-
controlled clutch for the engine cooling fan. Its pur-
pose is to maintain engine temperature by engaging
or disengaging the fan. The fan clutch is disengaged
when the coolant temperature is in or below the
specified temperature range; the fan clutch engages
when the coolant temperature rises above the range.
Principles of Operation (See Fig. 1

and Fig. 2)
The fan clutch is spring-loaded in the engaged posi-

tion. It is disengaged when air pressure is applied to
the cylinder on the front of the unit. Air pressure to
the cylinder is controlled by a solenoid valve; the so-
lenoid is controlled by a temperature switch that is
immersed in engine coolant.
When a cold engine is started, the temperature
switch is open, which activates the solenoid. The so-
lenoid valve allows compressed air to enter the cylin-
der. When the pressure reaches about 90 psi (621
kPa), the fan clutch disengages.
When the coolant temperature rises to the tempera-
ture switch setting, the switch closes. The solenoid
valve releases the compressed air from the cylinder,
and the fan clutch spring engages the clutch.
When the coolant temperature drops to the tempera-
ture switch cutoff setting, the switch opens, activating
the solenoid. Compressed air passes to the cylinder,
disengaging the clutch.
On vehicles with air conditioning, the fan clutch sole-
noid valve is connected to the fan cycling switch. If
the refrigerant pressure exceeds the setting of the
fan cycling switch, the switch closes the circuit to the
solenoid valve, which exhausts air from the cylinder
and engages the fan clutch.
When disengaged, it is normal for the housing (and
fan) to spin at about 170 rpm. When the compressed
air is released and the clutch engages, the housing
and fan move forward about 1/10-inch (2.5 mm).
NOTE: For information on fan clutch system op-
eration on vehicles with a radiator shutter, refer
to the radiator shutter section in this group.

20.06 Kysor Dynair® On/Off Fan Clutch

Removal, Installation, and Testing
Removal
See Fig. 1
1
2
3
4
5
6 8
EARLIER FAN INSTALLATION

7
1. Washer
2. Capscrew
3. Pulley
4. V−Belt
5. Spacer 10
6. Gasket 11
7. Fan Clutch 12
8. Socket−Head Capscrew
9. Fan
10. Flatwasher (see note) 9
11. Lockwasher
12. Nut
NOTE: Used only on models 1090−05261−01, SHROUD

1090−05262−01, and 1090−05262−03.
f200168
Fig. 1
CUMMINS L10 5.1 Attach a sling to the fan-and-drive assem-

bly. Remove the four capscrews that hold
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. the pulley hub to the engine.
2. Tilt the hood or cab as applicable. 5.2 Take the V-belts off the rear of the pulley.
3. Disconnect the air line from the clutch cylinder. Lift the assembly out of the engine com-
partment.
4. Loosen the V-belt adjustments.
On some vehicles, you may need to tilt
5. Remove the entire fan-and-drive assembly from the radiator forward. Support the hood as
the engine as follows: described in the hood section in this
manual. Loosen the brace rod fasteners
(FLD Conventionals) or stay rod fasteners

(COEs) and the lower radiator fasteners. 5. Check that there is about 1-inch (25-mm) clear-
Have an assistant tilt the radiator as you ance between the fan blade and the shroud on
remove the fan-and-drive assembly. the right side, and about 3/4-inch (19-mm) clear-
ance on the top, bottom, and left sides; this al-
CATERPILLAR AND CUMMINS lows for engine torque movement. Reposition the
shroud if needed.
NTC 6. Adjust the V-belts.
7. Attach the air line to the cylinder; do not over-
2. Tilt the hood or cab as applicable. tighten the nut. Using the adjustment provided at
3. Disconnect the air line from the clutch cylinder. the shroud, place enough tension on the tube so
that its front-to-rear or side-to-side play does not
4. Support the hood as described in the hood sec- exceed 1/2 inch (13 mm).
5. Loosen the brace rod fasteners (FLD Conven- CATERPILLAR AND CUMMINS
tionals) or stay rod fasteners (COEs) and the
lower radiator fasteners. Tilt the radiator forward
NTC
and brace it in place. 1. Apply Loctite 242® to the socket-head cap-
6. Remove the nuts and washers that hold the fan screws. Position the spacer and gasket (if used),
on the clutch, and remove the fan. and clutch assembly on the fan hub. Install the
socket-head capscrews, and tighten them 44
If the fan doesn’t clear the air cylinder, remove lbf·ft (60 N·m).
the cylinder air line fitting. If there still is not
2. With the radiator tilted forward and braced in
enough room, remove the locknut, tabwasher,
place, install the fan. If more clearance is
and the air cylinder. Remove the fan.
needed, remove the air cylinder fitting, or remove
7. If they were removed, install the air cylinder, tab- the air cylinder. Install the fan, washers, and
washer, and locknut. Connect a shop air hose to locknuts. Tighten the locknuts 44 lbf·ft (60 N·m).
the air cylinder inlet, and apply 90 to 120 psi
3. If they were removed, install the air cylinder, tab-
(621 to 827 kPa) to disengage the clutch.
washer, and locknut. Make sure the tabwasher is
8. Turn the clutch housing until the holes line up seated. Tighten the locknut 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm).
with the socket-head capscrews that hold the
4. Return the radiator to the operating position.
clutch assembly to the hub. Disconnect the shop
Tighten bottom radiator fasteners 30 lbf·ft (41
air hose.
N·m). Tighten round brace-rod nuts 90 lbf·ft (122
9. Remove the socket-head capscrews, and re- N·m). Tighten flat brace-rod fasteners 70 lbf·ft
move the clutch assembly. (95 N·m).
5. Check that there is about 1-inch (25 mm) clear-
Installation (See Fig. 1) ance between the fan blade and the shroud on
the right side, and about 3/4-inch (19 mm) clear-
CUMMINS L10 ance on the top, bottom, and left sides; this al-
lows for engine torque movement. Reposition the
1. Using a sling, lower the fan-and-drive assembly shroud if needed.
into place on the front of the engine.
6. Attach the air line to the cylinder; do not over-
2. Place the V-belts over the pulley. tighten the nut. Using the adjustment provided at
3. Fasten the hub to the engine. Tighten the cap- the shroud, place enough tension on the tube so
screws 35 lbf·ft (47 N·m). that its front-to-rear or side-to-side play does not
exceed 1/2 inch (13 mm).
4. Tighten the radiator fasteners if they were loos-
ened.

Testing 5.1 Disconnect the clutch air supply tube from

the solenoid valve to release the air pres-
sure and engage the clutch.
1. Start the engine. As air pressure builds to about
90 psi (621 kPa) the clutch should disengage. 5.2 Run the engine at rated rpm. Using a
2. Allow air pressure to build to over 100 psi (690 photo tachometer, compare the fan rpm
kPa), then shut down the engine. Check that the with the pulley rpm. If there is a difference,
fan rotates freely. Check for air leaks. the clutch is slipping and needs to be
overhauled.
3. With the fan clutch still disengaged, check the
bearing play by measuring fan tip fore-and-aft 6. Check clutch lining wear. Refer to the engine
movement as follows: cooling section in the vehicle maintenance
manual.
On 1090-05261 and 1090-05262 models, there
should be minimal bearing play when a fan blade
tip is rocked fore and aft.
On 1090-06060, 1090-06620, and 1090-08000
models:
3.1 Place a ruler against a fixed engine sur-
face, next to a fan blade tip.
3.2 Rock the fan blade fore and aft, using a
blade next to the one being measured.
Maximum allowable movement at the tip is
0.170 inch (4.3 mm), about 3/16 inch.
NOTE: The fan clutch model number is stamped
on the tag on the air cylinder. Also, the model
can be identified by the type of retaining plate
fasteners used. See the appropriate table
in "Specifications, 400."
4. Start the engine and run it at governed rpm.
Watch the coolant temperature gauge; coolant
temperature should stay within the normal oper-
ating range while the fan clutch completes one
cycle. For faster cycling, use a piece of card-
board to partially block radiator airflow.
The temperature switch should open at about
200°F (93°C), engaging the fan clutch. The
switch should close at about 194°F (90°C) to dis-
engage the clutch. For temperature switch set-
tings on vehicles with a radiator shutter, refer to
the radiator shutter section in this group.
NOTE: On 1090-06060-02 and 1090-06620-01
models, fore-and-aft fan tip movement or
wobble is normal when the clutch is disen-
gaged.
5. Check for clutch slippage, as follows:

Disassembly, Inspection, and Assembly
Disassembly See Fig. 3. Remove the capscrews and

separate the fan drive from the spacer
and pulley. Use care not to damage the
NOTE: See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 for parts identifica- spacer gasket.
tion.
Fig. 1, Series 1090 Fan Clutch, Models 05261 and 05262
1. Remove the fan and clutch assembly from the With the air pressure still applied, remove
vehicle. Refer to Subject 100. the retaining plate fasteners. Remove the
plate(s) and lining.
2. Remove the retaining plate(s) as follows:
2.2 On Caterpillar and Cummins NTC installa-
2.1 On Cummins L10 installations, remove the
tions, connect a shop air hose to the cylin-
nuts and washers that secure the fan,
der inlet. Apply 90 to 120 psi (621 to 827
then remove the fan.
kPa) to disengage the clutch.
Connect a shop air hose to the cylinder
Remove the retaining plate fasteners. Re-
inlet. Apply 90 to 120 psi (621 to 827 kPa)
move the plate(s) and lining.
to disengage the clutch.
3. Disconnect the air hose. Remove the nut and
Rotate the housing until the holes line up
tabwasher from the cylinder. Remove the cylin-
with the socket-head cap-screws.

19
17 18
1. Cylinder Nut 11. Spring
2. Tabwasher 12. O−Rings 16
3. Air Cylinder 13. Shaft Assembly
4. O−Ring 14. Piston Rod Assembly
5. Dust Seal 15. Snap Ring
6. Fan Nut 16. Clutch Lining
7. Lockwasher 17. Retaining Plate
8. Fan Stud 18. Lockwasher 15
9. Housing 19. Capscrew 14
10. Grease Seal 13
12
9 11
10
5
4
3
2
1 7 8
6
04/28/2000 f200041
Fig. 2, Series 1090 Fan Clutch, Models 06060 and 06620
5. Pull the shaft assembly out of the housing. Re-

1 move and discard the spring.
NOTE: Capscrews
centered in 6. Remove and discard the piston-rod O-rings
housing holes. (Fig. 4).
7. Note the position of the lip on the housing
grease seal, then remove and discard the seal.
1. Socket Head
Inspection
12/15/92 f200037
NOTE: See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 for parts identifica-
tion.
Fig. 3
1. Inspect the air cylinder for cracks or deformation;
der. If it is difficult to remove, apply 5 to 10 psi replace if damaged. If the dust seal shows wear
(34 to 68 kPa). or damage, replace it also.
4. Remove and discard the cylinder O-ring. 2. Inspect the housing as follows (see Fig. 5):

3.3 Turn the piston rod to check for roughness

1
2 in the sealed ball bearing. If the bearing
feels rough, replace the piston rod assem-
bly.
Assembly
NOTE: See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 for parts identifica-
3 tion.
1. O−Rings 1. Wipe the air cylinder clean, then coat a new
2. Bearing Surface 3. Lining Surface O-ring with approved grease (see "Specifica-
12/16/92 f200228 tions, 400") and install it. Install the dust seal.
Fig. 4 2. Assemble the housing as follows:
2.1 Clean off dust and debris from the inside
of the housing.
2
2.2 Remove the old grease from the needle
1. Cylinder bearings with a clean, lint-free rag.
1
O−Ring 3
Surface NOTE: Don’t wash the needle bearings in
2. Lining solvent.
Surface
3. Bearings 2.3 Lightly grease the needle bearings with
Inside approved grease.
2.4 Install a new grease seal with the lip fac-
ing the direction noted earlier. Lightly
12/17/92 f200229 grease the seal lip.
Fig. 5 3. Remove dust and debris from the shaft assem-
bly. Coat the new O-rings with grease and install
2.1 Check for scoring, burning, or cracking in
them on the piston rod.
the lining area; replace the housing if
damaged. Don’t attempt to resurface it. 4. Place a new spring over the piston rod.
2.2 Check for scoring on the air cylinder 5. Insert the shaft assembly into the housing; turn
O-ring surface; replace the housing if the housing slightly to ease assembly.
scored. Don’t attempt to resurface it. See Fig. 6.
2.3 Push on and turn the sealed ball bearing
while feeling for roughness. If the bearing
feels rough, replace the housing.
2.4 Check that all needle bearings are present
and roll freely; replace the housing if there
is a problem.
3. Inspect the shaft assembly as follows
(see Fig. 4):
3.1 Check for scoring, burning, or cracking in
the lining area; replace the shaft assembly
if damaged. Don’t attempt to resurface it.
12/17/92 f200038
3.2 Inspect the bearing surface for scoring;
replace the shaft assembly if scored. Fig. 6

6. Place the air cylinder on the housing so the flat

side of the tabwasher cavity faces the notch in
the piston rod. See Fig. 7.
1 2
12/22/92 f200232
Fig. 9
12. For Cummins L10:

12.1 Apply Loctite 242® to the socket-head
1. Flat Side of 2. Piston Rod
Tabwasher Cavity Notch
capscrews. Place the spacer and gasket
12/22/92 f200231 on the pulley, then tighten the capscrews
44 lbf·ft (60 N·m).
Fig. 7
12.2 Install the fan, using the washers and
7. Using two welding clamps, squeeze the housing locknuts. Tighten the nuts 44 lbf·ft (60
and the shaft assembly together until the piston N·m).
rod juts out of the cylinder far enough to install
the tabwasher and nut. See Fig. 8. Tighten the 13. Install the assembly on the vehicle using the in-
nut 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm). structions in Subject 100.
12/18/92 f200039
Fig. 8
8. Using a shop air hose, apply 90 to 120 psi (621

to 827 kPa) to the air cylinder. Remove the weld-
ing clamps.
9. Install the new lining. Attach the retaining plates
and tighten the capscrews or nuts 30 lbf·in (340
N·cm). See Fig. 9.
10. With the air pressure still applied, rotate the
housing so the holes line up with the pulley
mounting holes. Disconnect the air hose.
11. Again, tighten the air cylinder nut 84 lbf·in (940
N·cm).

Troubleshooting
Possible causes of fan clutch problems are listed
below. For more information, refer to the cooling sys-
tem troubleshooting section in this group.
Problem—Clutch Does Not Engage
The clutch is worn. Overhaul the clutch assembly.
The solenoid valve is not relieving air Check the solenoid valve and temperature switch.
pressure.
Problem—Clutch Does Not Disengage

Air pressure is low. Repair the air system to supply a minimum of 90 psi (621 kPa) to the air
cylinder.
The clutch is seized. Apply 90 to 120 psi (621 to 827 kPa) to the cylinder. The housing should
move rearward, and the fan should turn easily by hand. If the fan does not
move, try to free the clutch by lightly tapping the housing. If the fan still does
not turn easily, overhaul the clutch assembly.

Specifications
Fan Clutch Bearing Play

Maximum Bearing Play
Model Number Retaining Plate Fasteners (measured at fan blade tip)
inch (mm)
1090-05261-01
1090-05262-01 Bolt, Lockwasher, and Nut —
1090-05262-03
1090-06620-01
1090-06060-02 Capscrew and Lockwasher 0.170 (4.3) about 3/16"
1090-08000-01
Table 1, Fan Clutch Bearing Play
Torque Values
Torque
Fastener
Fan Nut 44 (60) —
Pulley Socket-Head Capscrew * —
Retaining Plate Nut or Capscrew — 30 (340)
* Apply Loctite 242 to the threads.
Approved Greases
Amoco Rykon Premium No. 2 EP
Chevron SRI-2
Shell Aero Grease 5
Shell Alvania Grease 3
Texaco Premium RB
Refer to the figures in this subject as follows:

Fig. 1, Fan Clutch Piping and Wiring, Vehicle
Without Air Conditioning and Fig. 2, Fan Clutch
Piping and Wiring, Vehicle With Air Conditioning.

Specifications

Radiator Assembly, FLD 112 Conventional 20.07
General Description and ferred to the air; coolant is then pumped back
through the engine to absorb more heat.
Principles of Operation The radiator uses glass-filled nylon end tanks. The
edges of the radiator core header are compressed in
The main function of a cooling system is to keep the
either one of two ways to hold the tanks to the
engine at its optimum operating temperature. This
header sealing surface. The first way is a "dimple
results in the most efficient use of fuel and allows the
wave lock crimp"; see Fig. 2. The second method is
engine oil to provide a good lubricating film.
a "tabbed header crimp"; see Fig. 3. The tanks and
High-flow radiators (with end tanks) are used in FLD core are held in steel channels along the top and
112 Conventionals. See Fig. 1. In these radiators, bottom of the radiator, and bolts running down from
coolant flows from the inlet at the top of the left end- the bottom channel mount to an underslung cross-
tank, across the core to the right end-tank, and out member. Rubber isolators protect the radiator from
the radiator at the bottom of the right end-tank. chassis and road vibration. The radiator is also se-
cured by brace rods that run between the top of the
radiator and the firewall. The fins of the radiator core
are reinforced along their forward edge to resist dam-
2 age from road debris and pressure washing.
A
B
05/12/93 f500096
A. inlet from engine
B. outlet to engine
1. Nylon End Tank 3. Header Sealing
2. Radiator Core Surface/Tank Flange
1
Fig. 1, High-Flow Radiator, Cross-Flow
gine thermostat opens and allows the water pump to 05/12/93 f500223
draw coolant from the radiator. The water pump cir- 1. Dimple Wave Lock Crimp
culates the coolant through water jackets in the en-
gine block and cylinder walls, combustion chambers, Fig. 2, Dimple Wave Lock Crimp
and valve assemblies. The heated coolant then flows
through the tubes of the radiator core, which dissi- Because crimping holds the nylon top and bottom
tanks in place, the radiators can be disassembled
pates the heat to the air drawn in by the engine fan.
and assembled.
By the time coolant travels through the radiator core
to the outlet tube, much of the heat has been trans-

20.07 Radiator Assembly, FLD 112 Conventional
05/12/93 f500224
1. Tabbed Header Crimp
Fig. 3, Tabbed Header Crimp

The surge tank, mounted on the firewall next to the
air cleaner, provides reserve coolant capacity, expan-
sion space for heated coolant, and deaeration space.
The radiator cap keeps a pressure of 9 psi (62 kPa)
in the system, which raises the boiling point of the
coolant. If the cooling system overheats, excess
coolant is expelled through the radiator overflow
tube.

Removal (See Fig. 1) 10. Remove the four fasteners that attach the fan
shroud to the radiator. Move the shroud back
away from the radiator assembly.
11. Attach a lift strap through the upper radiator sup-
2. Tilt the hood halfway and support it.
port channel. Connect the strap to an overhead
3. Remove any hose clamps from the radiator hoist. Remove any slack in the strap, so that the
brace rods. radiator assembly will be supported when the
mounting fasteners are removed.
4. Remove the hood straps and the brace rods
from the top of the radiator. Tilt the hood all the Remove the locknuts and washers from each
way, and support it. lower support isolator.
Using the overhead hoist, lift the radiator from
WARNING the chassis. Remove the strap from the radiator.
WARNING: Don’t drain the system while the en-
gine is hot. To avoid personal injury from scald- Installation
ing coolant, wait until the engine has cooled be-
fore draining the system. 1. Attach a lift strap through the upper radiator sup-
port channel, and connect the strap to an over-
5. Drain the coolant from the radiator as follows: head hoist. Using the hoist, lift the radiator, and
5.1 With the engine cool, loosen the radiator move it onto the radiator mount assembly.
cap on the surge tank to release any Fasten the bottom of the radiator to the mount
pressure in the radiator, then tighten the assembly. Tighten the flanged locknuts 165 lbf·ft
cap. (224 N·m). Remove the lift strap.
5.2 Place a clean drain pan under the drain 2. Support the hood in the half-tilt position and at-
located on the bottom of the coolant out- tach the hood straps and the radiator brace rods
let pipe. Remove the drain plug. on top of the radiator. Tighten the locknuts 155
5.3 Remove the deaeration hose from the top lbf·ft (210 N·m).
of the right end-tank. Loosen the inlet and 3. Move the fan shroud into position.
outlet hose clamps; disconnect the hoses
and allow them to drain. Seal the hoses 3.1 Adjust the shroud so there is about 1-inch
to prevent entry of dirt. (25-mm) clearance between the right side
of the fan blade and the fan shroud, and
Allow the radiator to drain completely. about 3/4-inch (19-mm) clearance on the
IMPORTANT: Don’t disconnect the refrigerant left side. This allows for engine-torque
lines from the condenser. movement.
3.2 Adjust the shroud so the vertical clear-
6. Remove the four fasteners that attach the con-
ance between the top of the fan blade
denser to the radiator support channels. Move
and the fan shroud opening is equal
the condenser out of the way, and support it so
within 1/8 inch (3 mm) to the clearance
that it is not damaged during radiator removal.
between the bottom of the blade and the
7. Remove any clamps that attach electrical wiring shroud opening.
or hoses to the radiator end-tanks.
3.3 Tighten the self-tapping screws 15 lbf·ft
8. Remove the air line (if equipped) from the fan. (20 N·m).
9. Loosen the clamps at both ends of the hoses ( 3.4 Attach the air line (if equipped) to the fan.
Fig. 2) that attach the inlet and outlet air piping
4. Move the condenser in place and fasten it to the
to the charge air cooler connections. Push the
radiator. Tighten the fasteners 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
clamps and hoses back onto the piping, until
they aren’t touching the charge air cooler.

9 6
8 11
5 12
6
10
5
2 13
1 3 7
4 7
14
15
16
17
15
16
17 20
17
17 18
19
18
10/28/94 19 f500095a
1. Rear Right-Side Brace-Rod 8. Rear Left-Side Brace-Rod 14. Lower Support Channel
Bracket Bracket 15. 3/4-Inch Spacer
2. Flanged Hexnut 9. Diagonal Brace Rod 16. 1-Inch Spacer
3. Flanged Capscrew 10. Left-Side Brace Rod 17. Isolator
4. Right-Side Brace Rod 11. Upper Support Channel 18. Washer
5. Spacer 12. Radiator 19. 5/8–11 Locknut
6. Hood Strap 13. Charge Air Cooler 20. Condenser
7. 5/8–18 Nut
Fig. 1, Radiator Installation


1 5/16-inch tightening screw hex: 55 lbf·in (620
N·cm).
3/8-inch tightening screw hex: 90 lbf·in (1020
2 3 N·cm).
03/16/94 f500097a
A. To the engine.
1. Radiator 3. Hose Clamps 02/28/96 f200326
2. Outlet Air Piping 4. Charge Air Cooler
Fig. 3, T-Bolt Type Hose Clamp
Fig. 2, Hose Clamp Locations
CAUTION A
B
1
CAUTION: Don’t use any lubricants or sealants
to coat the ends of the hoses, because they will
soften the rubber and damage the hoses.
5. Remove the seals from the coolant hose ends,
and connect the hoses. Your hose clamps can
be either T-bolt clamps ( Fig. 3) or Breeze
Constant-Torque clamps ( Fig. 4).
08/15/94 f200286
When working with T-bolt type hose clamps, A. The screw tip must extend about 1/4 inch (6 mm).
tighten the clamps 55 lbf·in (620 N·cm). These B. The belleville washer stacks must be collapsed
clamps are now standard on hoses with an in- almost flat.
side diameter greater than 2 inches (51 mm). 1. Tightening Screw Hex
When installing the Breeze Constant-Torque Fig. 4, Breeze Constant-Torque Hose Clamp
hose clamps, the clamps must be tightened to Installation
the correct torque. The screw tip of the clamp
must extend about 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the NOTE: All hose clamps will lose torque after
clamp housing, and the belleville washer stacks installation due to "compression set." However,
must be collapsed almost flat. Use a torque when correctly installed, Breeze Constant-
wrench to install these hose clamps correctly. Torque clamps will hold enough torque to auto-
The correct installation torque for Breeze matically adjust and keep consistent sealing
Constant-Torque hose clamps is as follows: pressure. During vehicle operation and shut-
down, the screw tip may adjust according to

temperature and pressure changes. The torque

may need to be adjusted for individual applica-
tions.
6. Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug 1-1/2 turns
beyond finger-tight.
7. Install the charge air cooler connecting hoses.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Coolant must be filled to the bottom
of the surge tank filler neck. Low coolant could
cause engine overheating, which could damage
the engine.
8. Fill the radiator with coolant to the level of the
bottom of the surge tank filler neck. Don’t install
the radiator cap. For coolant specifications, see
the vehicle maintenance manual, and the engine
manufacturer’s maintenance and operation
manual.
9. Start the engine, and check for coolant leaks in
Run the engine at fast idle for at least 3 minutes;
then, stop the engine. Check the coolant level in
the radiator, and add coolant as needed.
10. Install the radiator cap.

NOTE: The radiators in FLD 112 vehicles use

one of two different kinds of crimping to hold the CAUTION
nylon end tank to the radiator core. The two CAUTION: Use the heel of your hand or a rubber
types of crimping— dimple wave lock crimps or mallet on the side of the end-tank to tap it loose,
tabbed header crimps—are described in Sub- if needed. Do not use a screwdriver to pry off the
ject 050. When disassembling the radiator, use tank, as this could damage the tank or header
the procedure applicable for the type of crimping surface.
involved. 5. Remove the end-tank, and remove and discard
the radiator gasket.
Disassembly 6. Clean the gasket groove on the radiator core
header. Straighten any bends or dents in the
RADIATORS WITH TABBED groove.
HEADER CRIMPS 7. Inspect the end-tank flange ( Fig. 2). The flange
Before disassembling the radiator, pressure-flush it seats against the gasket, and should be smooth
and check the radiator cap, following the instructions and straight. If repair is needed, make sure that
in the cooling system section of the vehicle mainte- all excess epoxy or filler rod is filed smooth.
nance manual. Clean and check the exterior of the 8. Repeat the steps above for removal of the other
radiator, following the instructions in the vehicle driv- end-tank.
er’s manual.
Use a Johnson’s Wide Tab Tool 414-01W (or equiva-
lent) to disassemble radiators with tabbed header 1
crimps. Order the Johnson’s tool from:
2
Johnson Manufacturing Company
114 Lost Grove Road
Princeton, IA 52768-0096
1. Remove the radiator from the vehicle; re-
fer to Subject 100.
2. Remove the aftercooler from the radiator. For
instructions, refer to the air intake section in this
manual.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Use care when handling or supporting 05/12/93 f500103
the plastic end-tank. Failure to do so could dam- 1. Gasket
age the end-tank. 2. Radiator Core
Header
3. Set the radiator upright on one of its end tanks,
and support it in this position. See Fig. 1. Fig. 1
4. Using Johnson’s Wide Tab Tool 414-01W (or an IMPORTANT: Check the tubes of the radiator
equivalent), lift each header tab up and away core for scale deposits. If the radiator has been
from the end-tank. Lift the tabs just far enough pressure-flushed, and the tubes are still
for the tank to clear during removal. clogged, the radiator should be rodded or boiled
out with acid by an experienced radiator shop.
Otherwise, replace the core.

CAUTION
CAUTION: Use care when handling or supporting
the nylon top and bottom tanks. Failure to do so
could damage the tanks.
2. Remove the side channels from the radiator as-
1 sembly.
02/15/94 f500104
1. Flange 2.1 Remove the eight spring clips that hold

the side channel mounting pins in posi-
Fig. 2 tion. See Fig. 3. Insert a screwdriver
blade in the open end of each clip, and
RADIATORS WITH DIMPLE WAVE pry the clip open until it clears the edge
LOCK CRIMPS of the mounting pin. Then, slip the clip off
the pin.
IMPORTANT: Disassembling and assembling
nylon top- and bottom-tank radiators requires
the special tools listed in Table 1:
1
Description Qty.
Plastech II® Tanking Machine With Five 2-Inch 1
Cylinders
T-Bar 1
Hooked-End Bar 1
Wave Form Bar 1
Table 1
Order these tools from:

RAD PAL
2381 17 St. 03/25/93 f500172a
Detroit, MI 48216
1. Spring Clip
Fig. 3
Before disassembling the radiator, pressure flush it
and check the surge tank, following the instructions 2.2 Use a rubber mallet and a punch to tap
in the radiator group of the vehicle maintenance out the eight mounting pins. See Fig. 4.
manual. Clean and check the exterior of the radiator,
following the instructions in the vehicle driver’s 2.3 Slip the side channels off the radiator
manual. core and tank assembly. See Fig. 5.
3. Leak test the radiator core and tank assembly.
1. Remove the radiator from the vehicle; for instruc- 3.1 Securely plug all tank ports.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Don’t apply a higher amount of pres-
sure than specified below; too much pressure
will damage the radiator core.

3.2 At one tank port, install a pressure regu-

lator and gauge. Using a hand pump, ap-
ply 138 kPa (20 psi) air pressure through
the port.
and check it for leaks. Mark any leaks for
repair. If a leak is between the radiator
core header and a tank, remove the tank
and inspect the tank flange, the header
sealing surface, and the sealing gasket. If
the leak is in the core, but within 7.5 cm
(3 inches) of the tank, remove the tank
before repairing the leak. If the leak is in
the tank, replace the tank.
4. Remove the top and bottom tanks.
4.1 Place the radiator core and tank assem-
bly in the disassembly/assembly fixture,
and clamp the assembly securely in
place. See Fig. 6.
03/25/93 f500173a evenly across the top of the tank. Make
sure the cylinders’ rubber plungers will
Fig. 4 not press against breakable fittings, such
as vent tube ports.
CAUTION
1
CAUTION: Apply only enough pressure to com-
press the sealing gasket. Too much pressure will
crack the nylon tank.
the tank until the tank-to-core sealing
gasket is compressed enough to show a
dimple wave lock crimp and the tank
sealing flange.
CAUTION
CAUTION: In some places, especially around the
tank ports, the wave lock crimps may have to be
unlocked with a screwdriver. When using a
screwdriver, use care not to crack or gouge the
2 nylon tank.
03/25/93 f500174a 4.4 Place the T-bar into the T-bar groove in
1. Side Channel the disassembly/assembly fixture.
2. Radiator Core See Fig. 7.
Fig. 5

03/25/93 f500180a
Fig. 6
4.5 Slide the hooked-end bar over the T-bar. damage the flange and prevent a good seal after
Place the hook over the top of the wave the tank is installed.
crimp and pull the T-bar back to unlock
5.2 Lift the tank from the forward side, the
the crimp. See Fig. 7.
side opposite the tank ports. Remove the
4.6 Slide the hooked-end bar and the T-bar nylon tank from the radiator core.
down the T-bar groove to the next wave See Fig. 8.
crimp, and repeat the previous step until
5.3 Remove the sealing gasket from the seal-
all the wave crimps are unlocked.
ing surface of the radiator core header.
5. Once the wave crimps are unlocked, remove the See Fig. 9.
tank.
5.4 Clean the sealing surface of the radiator
5.1 Release the pressure from the tank, and core header.
move the clamping cylinders off the radia-
5.5 Repair any leaks marked during leak test-
ing.
CAUTION 5.6 Repeat this procedure to remove the op-

posite tank.
CAUTION: If needed, use a rubber mallet or the
IMPORTANT: Check the tubes of the radia-
heel of your hand and tap the side of the tank to
loosen it. Do not use a screwdriver against the tor core for scale deposits. If the radiator
tank sealing flange. A screwdriver blade may has been pressure-flushed, and the tubes

02/17/94 f500181a
02/17/94 f500177a
Fig. 9
Fig. 7
are still clogged, the radiator should be rod-
ded or boiled out with acid by an experi-
enced radiator shop. Otherwise, replace the
core.
Assembly
RADIATORS WITH TABBED
HEADER CRIMPS
1. With the radiator core supported and the header
facing up, place the new gasket in the groove.
2. Place the end-tank on the gasket.
NOTE: If the end-tank is warped or bowed in
the center, place it in hot water. This will make it
more flexible and help to ensure a good seal.
3. Evenly space five header clamps across the end-
tank. Starting with the middle clamps, apply
equal clamping pressure across the end-tank.
03/25/93 f500179a
IMPORTANT: Make sure that the header clamps
are tightened enough to compress the gasket.
Fig. 8

4. Repeat the preceding steps for the other end-

tank.
5. Pressure-test the radiator as follows:
5.1 Plug the inlet and outlet ports on the ra-
diator assembly.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Don’t apply a higher amount of air
pressure than specified below; too much pres-
sure will damage the radiator core.
5.2 At the port near the top of the right end-
tank (hose connection to the surge tank),
install a pressure regulator and gauge.
Using a hand pump, apply 20 psi (138
05/12/93 f500100
kPa) air pressure through the port.
5.3 Submerge the radiator in a tank of water Fig. 10
and check it for leaks. If a leak is de-
tected, crimp the tabs near the leak and 1 3
retest. Remove the radiator from the wa- 2
ter.
6. Starting at the center of one end-tank, use a pli-
ers to squeeze each tab (not blocked by a
header clamp) inward to its original position (
Fig. 10).
7. Install a hexnut on the adjusting screw of a pair 05/12/93 f500101
of locking-type pliers ( Fig. 11). 1. Locking Type Pliers 3. Adjusting Screw
2. Hexnut
8. Close and lock the jaws of the pliers. Turn the
adjusting screw to position the jaws against the Fig. 11
shank of an 11/32-inch diameter drill bit (
Fig. 12). 1
9. Tighten the hexnut on the adjusting screw 2
against the handle to lock the jaws in place.
10. Starting at the center, use the locking-type pliers
and crimp each tab over the lip of the end-tank.
11. Remove the center clamp and crimp the tabs.
Crimp the remaining tabs as soon as each
header clamp is removed.
12. Install the aftercooler on the radiator. For instruc-
tions, refer to the air intake section in this
manual. 3
13. Install the radiator in the vehicle; refer to Sub- 05/12/93 f500102
ject 100 for instructions. 1. Adjusting Screw 3. 11/32-Inch Diameter
2. Hexnut Drill Bit
Fig. 12

RADIATORS WITH DIMPLE WAVE 1.7 Place the T-bar into the T-bar groove in
LOCK CRIMPS
1. Install the nylon top and bottom tanks on the ra- and center the bar in front of the wave
diator core. crimp slot.
1.1 With the radiator securely clamped in the
disassembly/assembly fixture, header CAUTION
sealing surface up, make sure the bottom
of the radiator core and tank assembly is CAUTION: Do not push the wave crimp until it
completely supported, and that the touches the side of the nylon tank, or the tank
header sealing surface is free of any may crack.
dents, tool marks, or foreign particles.
1.2 Lubricate a new sealing gasket with a er’s edge until it almost touches the
soap and water solution, and position the tank’s side. See Fig. 13.
gasket on the header sealing surface.
See Fig. 9. To make sure the gasket is
not twisted, run your finger along the gas-
ket as it lies on the sealing surface. The
mold lines of the gasket should be on the
outside and inside diameters of the gas-
ket; if you can feel a mold line cross over
the top of the gasket, the gasket is
twisted.
1.3 Inspect the tank sealing flange. The
flange must be clean and free of defects.
If the sealing flange is damaged, replace
the tank.
sure the cylinders’ rubber plungers will
not press against breakable fittings, such
as vent tube ports. See Fig. 6.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Apply only enough pressure to com- 03/25/93 f500178a
press the sealing gasket. Too much pressure will
crack the nylon tank. Fig. 13
1.6 Apply pressure evenly across the top of 1.10 Slide the tools down the T-bar groove to
the tank until the tank-to-core sealing the next wave crimp slot, and repeat this
gasket is compressed enough to show a procedure until all the wave crimps are
small gap between the bottom of the crimped.
dimple wave lock crimp and the tank
sealing flange.

CAUTION
CAUTION: In some places, especially around the
tank ports, the wave crimps may have to be
crimped with a screwdriver. When using a screw-
driver, use care not to crack or gouge the nylon
tank.
1.11 Release the pressure from the tank, and
move the clamping cylinders off the radia-
1.12 Repeat this procedure to install the oppo-
site tank.
For instructions, refer to "Disassembly."
3. Install the radiator side channels.
3.1 Slide the side channels onto the radiator
core and tank assembly.
3.2 Using a rubber mallet and a punch, install
1
the eight mounting pins through the side
channel holes and tank bosses.
See Fig. 14.
3.3 Install the eight spring clips to secure the
mounting pins in position. See Fig. 15. To
install each clip, place the clip over the
end of the mounting pin, and slide the clip 02/17/94 f500175a
until it engages the groove in the pin and 1. Pin
the open end of the clip snaps over the
edge of the pin. If necessary, use a clamp Fig. 14
to compress the side channel while in-
stalling the clips.

03/25/93 f500176a
1. Spring Clip
Fig. 15

Checking
Checking 1 If the engine coolant is dirty or its color is beginning

to fade, change it. It should also be replaced if it has
a dead fish smell.
NOTE: For troubleshooting information, refer to
the engine cooling troubleshooting section in Be sure that the mixture is correct. Refer to the ve-
this manual. hicle maintenance manual.
VISUAL CHECK RADIATOR

It is a sound service practice to give the cooling sys- Radiator problems are limited to external leaks,
tem a quick check whenever you tilt the hood. Look which can be spotted visually, and internal block-
for signs of frayed or damaged belts and hoses. Also ages, assuming that there is good airflow and that
look for signs of visible leaks (or the stains they the radiator is large enough to get the job done.
leave), especially on the engine block. A final check To check for blockages, warm the engine to normal
is to look at the inside of the oil breather cap for operating temperature. Shut down the engine, and
signs of milky substance — which means that cool- pass your hand in front of the finned surface of the
ant is leaking into the oil. radiator. If there is a blockage in the radiator it
should cause an obvious temperature difference from
AIR CONDITIONER CONDENSER one area of the core to another. An obvious differ-
AND AFTERCOOLER ence between inlet and outlet temperatures, how-
ever, is to be expected.
Since the condenser and aftercooler are right in front
of the radiator, air must pass through them to get to
the radiator. That same air must then pass through
the radiator. Also remember that because these heat-
transfer parts are so close to each other, heat will
pass back and forth between them. For the heat
transfer process to take place, the fins of the radia-
tor, aftercooler, and the condenser must be free of
blockages and deposits such as dirt or bugs. Clean
the surfaces with compressed air or water and a mild
laundry soap.
RADIATOR CAP
The radiator cap is the most often ignored part in the
cooling system. If it is suspect, replace it. An inspec-
tion means checking the cap with a pressure tester.
A radiator cap in good condition will keep system
pressure at about 10 psi (69 kPa). A visual check is
also in order: look for signs of deterioration of the
inner gasket. Also look for cracks or breaks in the
spring retainer in the cap and for corrosion or depos-
its on the spring itself. If the spring is not in perfect
condition, it has probably lost tension; replace it.
ENGINE COOLANT
Check the level of the coolant in the radiator. It
should be up to the bottom of the surge tank fill-
neck.
1 Portions of this information courtesy of DRAF Industries, Inc.

Fan Clutch, Kysor K22RA 20.08
General Information
General Information lenoid is controlled by a temperature switch that is

immersed in the engine coolant.
The K22RA fan drive unit is an air-operated, When a cold engine is started, the temperature
temperature-controlled clutch for the engine cooling switch is open, which activates the solenoid. The so-
fan. Its purpose is to maintain engine temperature by lenoid valve allows compressed air to enter the cylin-
engaging or disengaging the fan. The fan clutch is der, and the fan clutch remains disengaged. The fan
disengaged when the coolant temperature is at or does not turn.
below the specified temperature range. The fan
clutch engages when the coolant temperature rises When the coolant temperature rises to the tempera-
above the range. ture switch setting, the switch closes. The solenoid
valve releases the compressed air from the cylinder.
Air pressure to the fan clutch is controlled by a sole- The fan clutch spring engages the clutch and the fan
noid valve; the solenoid valve is controlled by a tem- turns.
perature switch that is installed in the thermostat
housing. See Fig. 1. When the coolant temperature drops to the tempera-
A 3
07/18/94 f200019a
A. To the circuit breaker B. From the secondary air tank
1. Fan Clutch 2. Solenoid Valve 3. Temperature Switch
On vehicles with air conditioning, the fan clutch sole- ture switch cutoff setting, the switch opens, activating
noid valve is connected to a fan cycling switch at the the solenoid. Compressed air passes to the cylinder
receiver-drier. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the disengaging the clutch.
setting of the fan cycling switch, the switch supplies
power to the solenoid valve. See Fig. 2.
The fan clutch is spring-loaded in the engaged posi- receiver-drier. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the
tion. It is disengaged when air pressure is applied to setting of the fan cycling switch, the switch supplies
the cylinder on the front of the unit. Air pressure to power to the solenoid valve, which stops air flow and
the cylinder is controlled by a solenoid valve: the so- allows the internal spring to engage the fan clutch.

20.08 Fan Clutch, Kysor K22RA
General Information
2
4
1
A
07/18/94 f200020a
A. To the circuit breaker B. From the secondary air tank
1. Fan Clutch 2. Fan Cycling Switch at the 3. Solenoid Valve
Receiver-Drier 4. Temperature Switch
NOTE: When disengaged, it is normal for the
housing and fan to spin at about 300 rpm.
When the compressed air is released and the
clutch engages, the bearing housing and fan
move forward approximately 1/10th-inch (2.5
mm).

Fan Clutch Removal and Installation
Removal WARNING
Refer to the following figures for the fan clutch instal- WARNING: Use care when loosening the air line
lation for your engine. fitting. The line could be under pressure and may
• For Caterpillar 3176 and C–10/C–12 engines, have dirt or sludge in the air stream. If quickly
see Fig. 1. disconnected, the line may whip, possibly caus-
1
4
3
06/22/95 f200313
1. Fan Mount Nut 3/8–24, grade 5; Washer 4. Fan Clutch Mount Capscrew M12 x 35 mm, grade
2. Fan 8.8; Washer
3. Fan Clutch
Fig. 1, Caterpillar 3176 and C-10/C-12 Engines, Kysor Fan Clutch

• For Caterpillar 3406 engines, see Fig. 2. ing eye injury or other bodily harm.
• For Cummins M11 engines, see Fig. 3. 2. Disconnect the air line from the fan clutch.
• For Cummins N14 engines, see Fig. 4. NOTE: It may be possible to unbolt the fan,
• For Detroit Diesel Series 50 and 60 engines, carefully place it against the radiator, and have
see Fig. 5. access to the fan clutch without disconnecting
• For Detroit Diesel Series 55 engines, see the radiator hoses, mounts, or fan shroud.
Fig. 6. 3. Remove the fan shroud from the radiator, and
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and move the shroud back against the engine.
chock the tires. 4. Disconnect the radiator from all hoses and
mounts. For instructions, refer to the applicable
"Radiator Assembly" section in this group. With
one person holding each side of the radiator, tilt
the top of the radiator forward.

3 4
06/22/95 f200315
1. Fan Mount Nut 3/8–24, grade 5; Washer 3. Fan Clutch

2. Fan 4. Fan Clutch Mounting Bolts
Fig. 2, Caterpillar 3406 Engine, Kysor Fan Clutch

5. With the radiator tilted forward, remove the fan. 10. Remove the fan clutch from the fan clutch hub. It
may be necessary to gently pry the clutch from
6. Remove the fan belts. For instructions, refer to the hub.
"Drive Belts," Section 01.07 in this manual.
WARNING Installation
WARNING: To keep the clutch disengaged, you 1. Position the fan clutch on the fan clutch hub, and
must supply the fan clutch with between 90 and line up the access holes in the clutch with the
120 psi (6.1 and 8.2 bar) of air pressure through- holes for the allen screws in the clutch hub.
out this procedure. If the fan clutch engages, it 2. Install the allen screws, and tighten them 44 lbf·ft
may cause personal injury. (60 N·m).
7. Apply between 90 and 120 psi (6.1 and 8.2 bar) 3. Install the fan belts. For instructions, refer to
of air pressure to the fan clutch to disengage the "Drive Belts," Section 01.07 in this manual.
clutch.
4. Install the fan.
8. Line up the access holes with the 5/16-inch allen
screws. See Fig. 7. 5. Install the radiator on the radiator mounts, and
connect all radiator hoses. For instructions, refer
9. Remove the air pressure from the fan clutch, and to the applicable "Radiator Assembly" section in
allow the fan to engage. this group.

5
4
06/22/95 f200316
1. Fan Mount Nut 3/8–24, grade 5; Washer 4. Fan Clutch Mount Screw, M12 x 1.75x90
2. Fan 5. Fan Support Bracket
3. Fan Clutch
Fig. 3, Cummins M11 Engine, Kysor Fan Clutch

6. Install the fan shroud.
7. Connect the air line to the fan clutch.

06/22/95 f200314
1. Fan Mount Nut 3/8–24, grade 5; Washer 3. Fan Clutch
2. Fan 4. Fan Clutch Mounting Bolts
Fig. 4, Cummins N14 Engine, Kysor Fan Clutch

4
3
06/22/95 f200312
1. Fan Mount Nut 3/8–24, grade 5; Washer 4. Fan Clutch Mount Flanged Bolt, M12 x 35mm, grade
2. Fan 10.9; Washer
3. Fan Clutch
Fig. 5, Detroit Diesel Series 50 and 60 Engine, Kysor Fan Clutch

1
5
2
3
06/23/95 f200311
1. Fan Clutch Mount Locknut M14 3. Fan Mount Nut 3/8–24, grade 5; Washer
2. Fan Clutch Mount Flanged Bolt M12 x 100 mm, grade 4. Fan
10.9 5. Fan Clutch
Fig. 6, Detroit Diesel Series 55 Engine, Kysor Fan Clutch
06/27/95 f200319
Fig. 7, Line Up the Access Holes

Fan Clutch Minor Rebuild, Kysor K22RA
Special Tools
IMPORTANT: Special tools are recommended,
but not required for this procedure. See Table 1
for the special tool set.
Special Tools
Description Part Number Order From
Wright Brothers Enterprises
8171 Hibma
Support and Compressor (see Fig. 1) 1090-00000-02
Marion, MI 49665
Telephone: 231-825-2939
Table 1, Special Tools
Rebuild additional force after the clutch shaft bottoms in

the housing can damage the housing and may
ruin it.
NOTE: There are two methods of caging the
engagement spring. One uses the special tools
2 and a press. The other uses carriage bolts,
washers, and wingnuts. Either method is effec-
tive.
3. Cage the engagement spring.
1 If using the special support and compressor
tools, place the fan clutch in a press to cage the
engagement spring. See Fig. 2.
If using the optional method of caging the en-
06/26/95 f200317
gagement spring, do the following:
1. Support
2. Compressor 3.1 With the access holes in the housing as-
sembly aligned with those in the shaft as-
Fig. 1, Special Tools sembly, install two 3-1/2-inch (89-mm)
long carriage bolts and suitable washers
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and on opposite sides of the clutch assembly.
chock the tires.
3.2 On the shaft assembly side, install about a
2. Remove the fan clutch from the vehicle. For in- 1/2-inch (13-mm) thickness of washers
structions, refer to Subject 100. onto each carriage bolt.
3.3 Install a wingnut on the end of each car-
CAUTION riage bolt and tighten the wingnuts evenly
When caging and compressing the engagement until the engagement spring is caged.
spring of the fan clutch, depress the clutch shaft 4. Remove the lining retaining plates and the lining.
only enough to relieve the pressure on the retain- See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
ing plates (about 1/16-inch, or 1.5 mm). Applying

IMPORTANT: Do not wash the clutch parts in

solvent.
8. Using Fig. 3 as a reference, lubricate the follow-
ing rebuild parts with lubricant supplied with the
1 rebuild kit (if the lubricant is unavailable, use one
of the approved lubricants listed in Specifica-
tions, 400) :
• The piston seal (pack the seal groove also)
• The dust seal (pack the seal groove also)
2
• The needle bearings inside the housing
• The inside of the engagement spring
08/30/2000 f200318a
• The outside of the piston rod assembly
1. Compressor Tool
2. Support Tool • The inside of the piston rod assembly
Fig. 2, Caging the Engagement Spring and Removing • The inside of the cylinder assembly
the Lining Retaining Plates
• Pack the lip of the grease seal
CAUTION CAUTION
Do not press on the cylinder during this step, or When caging the engagement spring, make sure
the cylinder will be damaged. Use a 5/8-inch the bottom edges of the housing assembly and
wrench as shown in Fig. 4 on the piston rod flats. the shaft assembly are flush and aligned all the
5. If applicable, turn the clutch over in the press, way around. Failure to do so will cause the en-
and use the special compressor tool to cage the gagement spring pressure to affect the torque of
engagement spring while removing the cylinder the cylinder nut. This could result in the cylinder
nut and cylinder. See Fig. 4. nut not being tight enough to effectively com-
press the piston seal washer, which could cause
6. Inspect the fan clutch. See Fig. 3 leakage and eventual fan clutch failure.
6.1 Inspect the two surfaces where the lining IMPORTANT: When caging the engagement
rides. spring, compress the clutch shaft only 1/16-inch
6.2 Inspect the needle bearing race on the (1.5 mm).
shaft.
9. Assemble the fan clutch parts according to
6.3 Inspect the needle bearings inside the Fig. 3. Using either the special tools and a
clutch housing. press, or carriage bolts, washers, and wingnuts,
cage the engagement spring when installing the
6.4 Inspect the piston bearing by rotating the cylinder and lining. Be careful to depress the
piston. clutch shaft only 1/16-inch (1.5 mm).
7. If you find cracking or scoring on any surface, or The piston rod seal washer is the last item to
if the bearings are rough, loose, or missing, reinstall before the cylinder goes on. See Fig. 5.
place the fan clutch.
10. Tighten the cylinder nut 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm).
NOTE: If you find metal particles in the existing
grease, replace the fan clutch or contact Kysor 11. Tighten the lining screws 30 lbf·in (340 N·cm).
for the training needed to perform a major fan 12. As applicable, remove the fan clutch from the
clutch rebuild. Kysor will not provide parts for a press or remove the carriage bolts, washers, and
major rebuild until the technician has completed wing nuts.
rebuild training provided by Kysor.

22 23
19 20 21
12
6 11
10 13
2 4 5
3 7 8 9
1 14
15 16 17
18
08/11/2005 f200325
A. If a lip seal is used, install it so that it faces away from the fan studs.
1. Cylinder Nut 9. Engagement Spring Carrier 17. Flatwasher
2. Cylinder Assembly 10. Shaft Assembly 18. Fan Stud
3. Piston Rod Seal Washer 11. Lining 19. O-Ring
4. Lip Seal (may be O-Ring) 12. Lining Retaining Plates 20. Piston Rod Assembly
5. Dust Seal 13. Lockwasher 21. O-Ring
6. Housing Assembly 14. Screw 22. Snap Ring
7. Engagement Spring End Cap 15. Fan Nut 23. Coupling
8. Engagement Spring 16. Lockwasher
Fig. 3, Kysor K22RA Fan Clutch (exploded view)
06/26/95 f200320 07/07/2000 f200321
Fig. 4, Removing the Cylinder Nut and Cylinder Fig. 5, Installing the Piston Rod Seal Washer
13. Check the front-to-rear travel of the fan clutch. 14. Install the fan clutch on the engine. For instruc-
For instructions, refer to Group 20 in the Heavy tions, refer to Subject 100.
Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual.

15. Close the hood and remove the chocks from the
tires.

Fan Clutch Relining, Kysor K22RA
Relining 9. Remove the air pressure from the fan clutch, and
allow the fan to engage.
IMPORTANT: Premature wearing of the fan 10. Disconnect the shop air, and connect the air line
clutch lining is due to either insufficient air pres- to the fan drive.
sure necessary to fully disengage the clutch (al-
lowing the clutch to remain partially engaged,
thus increasing wear), or a problem in the con-
trol circuit for the fan. Before putting the fan
clutch back in service, check the fan control and
air supply systems and make any necessary re-
pairs.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
parking brake, and shut down the engine. Chock
the tires.
WARNING
If the fan clutch engages during the next step, it
could cause personal injury. Keep the fan clutch
disengaged throughout this procedure by main-
taining between 90 and 120 psi (620 and 827 kPa)
of air pressure.
2. Bleed all the air from the primary and secondary
tanks.
3. Disconnect the air line from the fan drive, and
apply 90 to 110 psi (620 to 760 kPa) shop air
pressure to the fan drive.
4. Remove the six lining plate screws, and remove
the three lining plates. See Fig. 1.
5. Remove the old lining. If the lining sticks, use a
hammer and a screwdriver to free it by tapping
on the dividing cut in the lining.
6. Inspect the clutch shaft. If lining residue is
present, or if the surface appears glazed over
(non-metallic), temporarily release the air pres-
sure from the clutch to allow shaft to protrude,
and use a ScotchBrite to break the glaze.
NOTE: Some applications may be too tight to
spread the lining and slip it over the pulley. If
necessary, the lining can be cut in half with a
hacksaw for installation.
7. Apply air pressure to the clutch again, and install
the new lining. See Fig. 2.
8. Install the new lining plates. Tighten the screws
30 lbf·in (340 N·cm).

Fan Clutch Relining, Kysor K22RA
22 23
19 20 21
12
6 11
10 13
2 4 5
3 7 8 9
1 14
15 16 17
18
08/11/2005 f200325
A. If a lip seal is used, install it so that it faces away from the fan studs.
1. Cylinder Nut 9. Engagement Spring Carrier 17. Flatwasher
2. Cylinder Assembly 10. Shaft Assembly 18. Fan Stud
3. Piston Rod Seal Washer 11. Lining 19. O-Ring
4. Lip Seal (may be O-Ring) 12. Lining Retaining Plates 20. Piston Rod Assembly
5. Dust Seal 13. Lockwasher 21. O-Ring
6. Housing Assembly 14. Screw 22. Snap Ring
7. Engagement Spring End Cap 15. Fan Nut 23. Coupling
8. Engagement Spring 16. Lockwasher
Fig. 1, Kysor K22RA Fan Clutch (exploded view)
06/26/95 f200324
Fig. 2, Removing the Lining Plates

Troubleshooting
Problem—Fan Clutch Fails to Engage

Problem—Fan Clutch Fails to Engage
There is no power to the fan clutch control Check all electrical connections, and repair or replace wiring as needed.
circuit.
The engine temperature switch is Make sure the switch is normally closed, not normally open. Replace the
damaged or an incorrect sensor has been switch if it is damaged or if the switch is the wrong type.
installed.
Problem—Fan Clutch Does Not Disengage

Problem—Fan Clutch Does Not Disengage
The engine temperature switch is Make sure the switch is normally closed, not normally open. Replace the
installed.
A restricted air line does not allow air to Make sure the air lines are not pinched or plugged. Repair the air lines as
Problem—Fan Clutch Cycles Frequently

Problem—Fan Clutch Cycles Frequently
The fan clutch control circuit has a loose Check all wiring connections and repair the circuit as needed.
The temperature control settings are Check the fan clutch control setting of the temperature switch according to the
incorrect. engine installed in the vehicle. Repair or replace the temperature switch as
needed.
The fan cycling switch at the receiver- Check the switch at the receiver-dryer and, if needed, replace the switch with
Problem—Fan Clutch Engages, But the Engine Still Overheats


Troubleshooting

There is a problem somewhere else in the Refer to "Cooling System Troubleshooting," Section 20.00 in this group.
cooling system.

Specifications
If the lubricant that comes with the rebuild kit for the • Chevron SR12
Kysor K22RA fan clutch is unavailable, use one of • Amoco Rykon Premium #2EP
the following approved lubricants:
• Texaco RB Premium
• Aeroshell 5
• Shell Alvania R3
Kysor K22RA Fan Clutch Torques

Torque
Description
Clutch-to-Hub Fasteners 45 (61) —
Fan-to-Clutch Fasteners 26 (35) —
Front Piston Nut — 84 (950)
Lining Plate Screws — 30 (340)
Table 1, Kysor K22RA Fan Clutch Torques

Coolant Heater, Espar D7W 20.09
General Information
General Description
The Espar D7W is a diesel-fired 24,000 BTU/HR
coolant heater, which is designed to provide a means
of preheating or maintaining heat in a water cooled
engine. For ease of installation and protection, the
coolant heater is enclosed in a weather resistant
steel box.
The coolant heater is installed within the coolant flow
of the cooling system and simply pumps coolant from
the engine, heats it, and returns it to the engine. The
main purpose of the coolant heater is to provide heat
to the cab and sleeper while the engine is off. The
coolant heater is completely independent of the en-
gine; it runs on both diesel fuel and a 12 or 24 volt
power source. A temperature regulating switch in the 07/22/97 f830795
unit senses the coolant temperature between the low
temperature point of 176°F (80°C) and the high tem- Fig. 1, Control Unit (model 25-1666)
perature point of 210°F (94°C).
The coolant heater may be operated from the vehicle
cab by an on/off (pull/push) switch, a preselect timer,
or a combination of both.
The coolant heater system has three major compo-
nents:
• The control unit (Fig. 1 and Fig. 2);
• The fuel metering pump (Fig. 3);
• The heater unit (Fig. 4).
Except for the on/off switch or preselect timer, the A
5 4 3 2 1 6 7 8 9 10
B
main components of the heater are contained in the 13 12 11
10 9 8 7 6 1 2 3 4 5 111213
steel box. See Fig. 5.
10/15/97 f541794
Switch On and Start Up Fig. 2, Control Unit (model 25-1807)

Once the coolant heater is switched on, the following 5. The control unit checks the input voltage (under
sequence of events will take place: or over voltage will cause the heater to shut
1. The combustion air blower starts. down).
2. The coolant pump starts. 6. After the 20 to 50 second combustion chamber

preheat, the fuel pump will start.
3. The control unit checks all functions.
7. Once the ignition takes place, the flame sensor
4. The glow plug begins to preheat the combustion will automatically switch the glow plug off (there
chamber (20 to 50 seconds dependant on input is a 1 to 3 minute maximum ignition time).
voltage, the preheat time is longer if the voltage
is lower). NOTE: If the coolant heater fails to start the first
time, it will automatically attempt a second start.

20.09 Coolant Heater, Espar D7W
General Information
NOTE: On initial start up the heater may require

several start attempts to self prime the fuel sys-
tem.
Running
After ignition, the following operations or events will
take place:
1. The coolant heater runs in full heat mode.
2. Once the coolant temperature reaches 194°F
07/22/97 f830796
(90°C), the coolant heater automatically switches
Fig. 3, Fuel Metering Pump to low heat mode and continues to run.
2 4 5 6
3
1 7
8
18
17 9
16
15
10
12 11
14 13
10/09/97 f830813
1. Glow Plug 7. Overheat Switch 14. Combustion Air Exhaust

2. Coolant Outlet 8. Coolant Passage 15. Flame Sensor (model 25–1807
3. Temperature Sensor 9. Heat Exchanger only)
4. Change Over Relay (model 25– 10. Coolant Inlet 16. Fuel Inlet
1807 only) 11. Coolant Pump 17. Flame Sensor (model 25–1666
5. Partial Load Resistor 12. Combustion Air Intake only)
6. Partial Load Resistor Cover 13. Combustion Air Motor 18. Combustion Chamber
Fig. 4, Coolant Heater Unit
If unsuccessful, the coolant heater will shut 3. If the coolant temperature drops to 176°F (80°C),
down completely. the coolant heater will automatically switch back
to full heat mode.

General Information
4 successful, the heater will continue to run. If the

3 5 6 restart is not successful, then the heater will
7
shut down completely.
2
1
During operation, the coolant heater continually
8 senses the input voltage from the batteries. If
the input voltage drops to approximately 10.5
volts (21 volts for a 24 volt system), then the
9 coolant heater will automatically shut down.
Switching Off
Once the coolant heater is switched off, the following
cool down cycle will take place:
10/14/97 f830816 WARNING

1. Diagnostic LED
2. Fuse Bank
The coolant heater must be switched off while
3. Glow Plug Relay any fuel tank on the vehicle is being filled. Igni-
4. Relay to Switch, Vehicle Fan tion of fuel vapors (a fire or explosion) could oc-
5. Control Unit cur, which could result in both personal injury
6. Model Identification Plate and property damage.
7. Overheat Switch
8. Glow Plug
9. Flame Sensor WARNING
Fig. 5, Model 25-1807 Coolant Heater Do not operate the heater in poorly ventilated ar-
eas or enclosed spaces. Exhaust fumes could
4. If the coolant temperature increases to 201°F cause breathing impairment, which could result
(94°C), the coolant heater will automatically in personal injury or death.
switch off.
1. The fuel metering pump stops delivering fuel and
NOTE: As long as the coolant heater is the flame is extinguished.
switched on, the coolant pump will continue to
2. The glow plug is re-energized for a 15 second
run regardless of whether the heater is ignited after glow.
or not (provided a malfunction shut down has
not occurred). 3. The combustion air blower and water pump con-
tinue to run for a three minute cool down cycle,
5. The coolant pump will continue to circulate cool- then they switch off.
ant to allow the heater to monitor the engine
temperature. Safety Equipment
6. If the coolant heater cycles off, it will automati-
The control unit, the overheat switch, and the flame
cally restart once the coolant temperature
sensor continually monitor the coolant heater func-
reaches 176°F (80°C).
tions and will shut down the heater in the case of a
7. The coolant heater will continue to run as de- malfunction. The flame is monitored by the flame
scribed above until it is switched off, either sensor, while the overheat temperature is monitored
manually, automatically by a timer, or if a heater by the overheat switch. Events or conditions that can
malfunction shut down occurs. cause a automatic malfunction shutdown include:
NOTE: While in running mode, if the coolant 1. If the ignition fails to take place within 90 sec-
heater should shut down due to flame out it will onds of starting the fuel metering pump, the
automatically attempt one restart. If the restart is starting procedure will be repeated. If the coolant
heater again fails to ignite after 90 seconds of

General Information
fuel being pumped, then an automatic malfunc-

tion shutdown will occur.
2. If the flame goes out spontaneously during op-
eration, the coolant heater automatically attempts
to restart. If the coolant heater fails to ignite
within 90 seconds of the fuel being pumped, or if
it ignites but goes out again within 3 minutes, an
automatic malfunction shutdown will occur.
3. If the coolant heater overheats (due to lack of
coolant, a restriction, or a poorly bled coolant
system), the overheat switch trips, which cuts off
the fuel supply, and starts a malfunction shut-
down.
4. If at any time the voltage drops below 10.5 volts
(12 volt system) or 21.0 volts (24 volt system) or
rises above 15 volts or 30.0 volts (depending on
voltage system), an automatic shutdown will fol-
low after a 20 second delay.
5. The coolant heater will not start if the glow plug
doesn’t work or if the electrical cable to the me-
tering pump is broken.
6. The function of the combustion air blower motor
is checked once when the coolant heater is
started. If it fails to start, the coolant heater indi-
cates a malfunction.
CAUTION
During electrical welding work on the vehicle,
disconnect power to the coolant heater in order
to protect the control unit. Failure to do this
could damage the control unit.

Coolant Heater Removal and Installation
Removal 4. Drain the coolant into a suitable clean container.

See Section 20.01 in this manual for instruc-
tions.
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine,
chock the tires, and tilt the hood or cab. 5. Mark the coolant inlet and outlet positions on the
coolant heater assembly and on the heater
hoses for later reference. Loosen the hose
3. Disconnect the electrical connections to the cool- clamps and remove the heater hoses from the
ant heater assembly. coolant heater assembly. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
6. Using caution to avoid fuel spilling fuel, remove
1
the 9/32-inch (7-mm) hose clamp from the rubber
2 fuel line connection at the coolant heater assem-
bly. Separate the fuel line from the rubber fuel
line connection. See Fig. 1 for location.
7. Remove the fasteners from the coolant heater
exhaust pipe support brackets. Pull the exhaust
3 pipe away from the frame. See Fig. 3.
8. Remove the four mounting nuts and washers
from the bottom of the coolant heater assembly
bracket. Remove the coolant heater assembly
with the four rubber shock mounts from the
mounting bracket. See Fig. 2.
4
Installation
07/22/97
5 f830797
WARNING
1. Coolant Outlet Make sure the batteries have been disconnected
2. 25 AMP Circuit Breaker (model 25–1666 only) before proceeding with this installation. The cool-
3. Electrical Quick Connect Coupler ant heater has both a battery power connection
4. Fuel Line and diesel fuel connection. If an electrical spark
5. Coolant Inlet
were to occur during the installation, a fire could
Fig. 1, Coolant Heater Connections start and cause personal injury and property
damage.
NOTE: Separate the electrical harnesses from
the quick connect coupler at the coolant heater 1. Position the coolant heater assembly with the
assembly. All external electrical harnesses (the four rubber shock mounts over the mounting
power harness, the on/off switch harness and bracket. Locate the rubber shock mount studs
the fuel pump harness) enter the coolant heater over the four mounting holes in the bracket.
Lower the coolant heater assembly on the
assembly through an electrical quick connect
bracket. See Fig. 2.
coupler. See Fig. 1.
NOTE: For severe vibration applications a
WARNING heavy shock mounting kit is available from Es-
par Heater Systems. The part number is
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and the CA000012.
engine are cool. Draining it when these are hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald- 2. Install the four mounting nuts and washers on
ing. the bottom of the coolant heater assembly
bracket. Tighten the mounting nuts snugly. See
Fig. 2.

3 3
9 1
7
8 6
4
5
07/23/97 f830798
1. Coolant Heater Assembly 4. Switch Harness 7. Exhaust Pipe
2. Mounting Bracket 5. Fuel Pump Harness 8. Mounting Nut and Washer
3. Right Frame Rail Web 6. Power Harness 9. Shock Mount
Fig. 2, Coolant Heater Installation

3. Position the coolant heater exhaust pipe on the NOTE: Connect the electrical harnesses to the
frame rail. Install the fasteners through the ex- quick connect coupler at the coolant heater as-
haust pipe support brackets and into the existing sembly. All external electrical harnesses (the
holes. Tighten the fasteners snugly. See Fig. 3. power harness, the on/off switch harness and
4. Using caution to avoid spilling fuel, connect the the fuel pump harness) enter the coolant heater
fuel line to the rubber fuel line connection at the assembly through an electrical quick connect
coolant heater assembly. Attach and secure the coupler. See Fig. 1.
9/32-inch (7-mm) hose clamp around the rubber
fuel line connection. See Fig. 1 for the fuel line 6. As marked during removal, install the two heater
location. hoses and hose clamps to the proper inlet and
outlet coolant fittings on the coolant heater as-
5. Connect the electrical connections to the coolant sembly. See Fig. 4 or Fig. 5.
heater assembly.

2 3
1 1
6
5 A
4
2
1
3
1
6
5 3 B
4
03/09/98 f542432 4
1. Exhaust Pipe 3. Exhaust Pipe
Support Bracket 4. Fairing Support 2
2. Espar Coolant Bracket
Heater
1
Fig. 3, Coolant Heater Exhaust Mounting 6
5 C
7. Tighten the two heater hose clamps snugly.
8. Connect the batteries. 4
3
03/03/98 f011341
9. Bleed the cooling system.
A. Cummins N14 C. Caterpillar 3406
9.1 Fill the radiator with coolant. Engine Engine
B. Detroit Diesel DDC
9.2 In the cab, set the heater control to the S60 Engine
maximum heat position. 1. Coolant Heater 5. Coolant Heater
Supply Port Return Fitting
9.3 Start the engine and run it until the radia-
2. Engine 6. Espar Coolant
tor thermostat has opened. 3. Coolant System Heater
9.4 Switch the coolant heater on by pulling Return Port
out the on/off switch. This will start the 4. Coolant Heater
Supply Fitting
electric coolant pump in the coolant
heater. The coolant pump will bleed the Fig. 4, Day Cab Heater Plumbing
air out of the system as it circulates cool-
ant through the heater. 9.7 Stop the coolant heater by pushing in on
the on/off switch.
NOTE: The coolant heater’s ignition may
cycle on during the previous substep. 9.8 Return and secure the hood or cab in the
operating position.
9.5 Stop the engine.
9.6 Fill the radiator and pressure test the
cooling system for leaks. If leaks are
found, tighten the hose clamps and/or
replace the hoses. Fill the radiator if
needed.

1 2 3
7
6
5 A
1
6
3 B
5
4
03/09/98 f011342
A. Caterpillar 3176 B. Detroit Diesel DDC
Engine S60 Engine
1. Coolant Heater 5. Coolant Heater
Supply Port Return Fitting
2. Engine 6. Espar Coolant
3. Coolant System Heater
Return Port 7. SleeperCab Deck
4. Coolant Heater
Supply Fitting
Fig. 5, SleeperCab Heater Plumbing

Glow Plug Removal and Installation
NOTE: To remove the glow plug, the lid of the

coolant heater assembly box must be removed. 1
If the location of the coolant heater assembly
box hinders the removal of the lid, then it may
be necessary to move the coolant heater as- 2
sembly off its mounting bracket. For instructions,
see Subject 100.
3
Removal 4

chock the tires, and tilt the hood or cab.
3. Remove the two capscrews at the bottom of the
coolant heater assembly box lid.
4. Slide the three-sided lid off the base of the cool-
ant heater assembly box. This will expose both 07/22/97 f830793
the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1.
1. Glow Plug Protective Cap
2. Glow Plug
1 2 3. Glow Plug Reducer
4. Glow Plug Strainer
Fig. 2, Glow Plug Assembly

7. Unscrew the glow plug. Inspect the glow plug
and heating coil for breaks or metal fatigue.
4 Check and remove any accumulated coke (car-
3
bon) from the glow plug heating coil.
7 See Subject 300, for glow plug replacement rec-
ommendations. Replace the glow plug as neces-
6 sary.
8. Unscrew the glow plug reducer and take the
5 glow plug strainer out.
Using varsol, a brass brush, and compressed air,
07/22/97 f830794 remove any carbon build up inside the glow plug
1. Coolant Heater Assembly Box strainer. Replace the glow plug strainer if it is
2. Coolant Heater Assembly Box Lid damaged during this cleaning procedure.
3. Control Unit
4. 30 Amp Circuit Breaker (model 25–1666 only) Clean and remove any carbon build up inside the
5. Rubber Shock Mount glow plug chamber.
6. Heater Unit
7. Lid Capscrew
Installation
Fig. 1, Coolant Heater Box Assembly
1. Install the glow plug strainer and the glow plug
5. Remove the glow plug protective cap. See reducer.
Fig. 2.
2. Install the glow plug and tighten it 60 to 96 lbf·in
6. Remove the hexnut holding the glow plug cable (680 to 1080 N·cm).
and remove the cable.

Glow Plug Removal and Installation
3. Install the glow plug cable and protective cap.

See Fig. 2.
4. Slide the three-sided lid onto the base of the
coolant heater assembly box.
5. Install the two capscrews at the bottom of the
coolant heater assembly box lid. Tighten the cap-
7. Return and secure the hood or cab in the operat-
ing position.

Temperature Sensor Replacement
NOTE: To replace the temperature sensor, the 4. Slide the three-sided lid off the base of the cool-
lid of the coolant heater assembly box must be ant heater assembly box. This will expose both
removed. If the location of the coolant heater the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1.
assembly box hinders the removal of the lid, 5. Remove the radiator pressure cap to minimize
then it may be necessary to move the coolant the cooling system pressure.
heater assembly off its mounting bracket. For
6. At the coolant heater, clamp off both the coolant
instructions, see Subject 100. heater hoses, to prevent the coolant from flowing
out.
Replacement (See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) 7. Remove the partial load resistor cover ( Fig. 2,
Ref. 9).
1 2 8. Unclip the 12-pin connector plug from the holder
(Ref. 11). Remove the 12-pin connector plug.
NOTE: The following step may require the use
of special tools for certain connectors and termi-
nals. See Group 54 (wiring) in this manual for
4 information on special terminals and connectors,
3 and special tools.
7
9. Take pins 8 and 10 out of the 12-pin connector
plug housing ( Fig. 3 or Fig. 4, Refs. 8 and 10).
6
10. Loosen and remove the temperature sensor (
5 Fig. 2, Ref. 6).
11. Install new temperature sensor and tighten 12 to
07/22/97 f830794
24 lbf·in (135 to 271 N·cm).
1. Coolant Heater Assembly Box 12. Install the connector pins, of the new tempera-
2. Coolant Heater Assembly Box Lid ture sensor, into the 12-pin connector plug hous-
3. Control Unit ing (positions 8 and 10).
4. 30 Amp Circuit Breaker (model 25–1666 only)
5. Rubber Shock Mount 13. Install the 12-pin connector plug firmly into the
6. Heater Unit holder and install the partial load resistor cover.
7. Lid Capscrew
Fig. 1, Coolant Heater Box Assembly coolant heater assembly box.
WARNING coolant heater assembly box lid. Tighten the cap-
To avoid personal injury from scalding coolant,
wait until the engine has cooled to room tem- 16. Remove clamps from both the coolant heater
perature before removing the temperature sensor. hoses, at the coolant heater.
chock the tires, and tilt the hood or cab. 18. Bleed cooling system. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
3. Remove the two capscrews at the bottom of the ing position.

9
10 11
7
8
12
7
13
6
3
1
5
4
2
14
23
22 15
18
17 16
19
21
20
10/02/97 f830789
1. Flame Sensor (model 25–1666 9. Partial Load Resistor Cover 18. Burner Connector Clamp
only) 10. 12-Pin Connector Plug Housing 19. Burner
2. Glow Plug Strainer 11. 12-Pin Connector Plug 20. Exhaust Pipe Clamp
3. Glow Plug 12. Overheat Switch 21. Combustion Air Blower
4. O-Ring 13. Mounting Clamp 22. Flame Sensor (model 25–1807
5. Heat Exchanger 14. Coolant Jacket only)
6. Temperature Sensor 15. Coolant Pump O-Ring 23. Retaining Spring (model 25–
7. Grommet 16. Coolant Pump 1666 only)
8. Partial Load Resistor 17. Coolant Pump Clamp
Fig. 2, Heater Unit Assembly

2 2
4 6 4 6
8 8
10 12 10 12
2 4 6 8 10 12 2 4 6 8 10 12
1 3 5 7 9 11 1 3 5 7 9 11
9 11 9 11
5 7 5 7
3 3
06/11/97 1 f830790 06/11/97 1 f830790
1. Coolant Pump (black) 1. Coolant Pump (black)
2. Coolant Pump (brown) 2. Coolant Pump (brown)
3. Combustion Air Blower (brown) 3. Combustion Air Blower (brown)
4. Combustion Air Blower (violet) 4. Not Used
5. Partial-Load Resistor (red) 5. Speed Change Relay (black)
6. Partial-Load Resistor (red) 6. Combustion Air Blower and Speed Change Relay
7. Flame Sensor (brown) (black/red)
8. Temperature Sensor (brown) 7. Flame Sensor (gray)
9. Flame Sensor (gray) 8. Temperature Sensor (brown)
10. Temperature Sensor (grey) 9. Flame Sensor (gray)
11. Overheat Switch (white) 10. Temperature Sensor (grey)
12. Overheat Switch (white) 11. Overheat Switch (white)
12. Overheat Switch (white)
Fig. 3, Model 25-1666 12-Pin Connector Plug

Model 25–1666 Flame Sensor Removal and
Installation
NOTE: To remove the flame sensor, the lid of NOTE: The following step may require the use
the coolant heater assembly box must be re- of special tools for certain connectors and termi-
moved. If the location of the coolant heater as- nals. See Group 54 (wiring) in this manual for
sembly box hinders the removal of the lid, then information on special terminals and connectors,
it may be necessary to move the coolant heater and special tools.
assembly off its mounting bracket. For instruc- 7. Take pins 7 and 9 out of the 12-pin connector
tions, see Subject 100. plug housing ( Fig. 3, Refs. 7 and 9).
8. Unclip the retaining spring ( Fig. 2, Ref. 22) and
Removal (See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) remove the flame sensor (Ref. 1) from the
holder.
chock the tires, and tilt the hood or cab. 9. Using a soft cloth clean the flame sensor.
2. Disconnect the batteries. 10. See Subject 300, for flame sensor replacement
recommendations. Inspect and replace the flame
3. Remove the two capscrews at the bottom of the sensor if necessary.
ant heater assembly box. This will expose both
Installation
the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1. 1. Install the flame sensor and clip the retaining
spring into the holder.
1 2 2. Install the flame sensor connector pins into the
12-pin connector plug housing (positions 7 and
9).
3. Install the 12-pin connector plug firmly into the
holder and install the partial load resistor cover.
4 4. Slide the three-sided lid onto the base of the
3 coolant heater assembly box.
7
6 screws 10 lbf·ft (14 N·m).

ing position.
07/22/97 f830794
1. Coolant Heater Assembly Box 8. Remove the chocks from the tires.
2. Coolant Heater Assembly Box Lid
3. Control Unit
4. 30 Amp Circuit Breaker
5. Rubber Shock Mount
6. Heater Unit
7. Lid Capscrew

5. Remove the partial load resistor cover ( Fig. 2,
Ref. 9).
6. Unclip the 12-pin connector plug from the holder

Installation
9
10 11
7
8
12
7
13
6
3
1
5
4
2
14
23
22 15
18
17 16
19
21
20
10/02/97 f830789
1. Flame Sensor (model 25–1666) 10. 12-Pin Connector Plug Housing 18. Burner Connector Clamp
2. Glow Plug Strainer 11. 12-Pin Connector Plug 19. Burner
3. Glow Plug 12. Overheat Switch 20. Exhaust Pipe Clamp
4. O-Ring 13. Mounting Clamp 21. Combustion Air Blower
5. Heat Exchanger 14. Coolant Jacket 22. Flame Sensor (model 25–1807
6. Temperature Sensor 15. Coolant Pump O-Ring only)
7. Grommet 16. Coolant Pump 23. Retaining Spring (model 25–
8. Partial Load Resistor 17. Coolant Pump Clamp 1666 only)
9. Partial Load Resistor Cover

Installation
2
4 6 8
10 12
2 4 6 8 10 12
1 3 5 7 9 11
9 11
5 7
3
06/11/97 1 f830790
1. Coolant Pump (black)
2. Coolant Pump (brown)
3. Combustion Air Blower (brown)
4. Combustion Air Blower (violet)
5. Partial-Load Resistor (red)
7. Flame Sensor (brown)
8. Temperature Sensor (brown)
9. Flame Sensor (gray)
10. Temperature Sensor (grey)
Fig. 3, 12-Pin Connector Plug

Model 25–1666 Overheat Switch Replacement
NOTE: To remove the overheat switch, the lid of

the coolant heater assembly box must be re- 1 2
moved. If the location of the coolant heater as-
sembly box hinders the removal of the lid, then
it may be necessary to move the coolant heater
assembly off its mounting bracket. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 100. 4
3
Replacement (See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) 7
WARNING 6
To avoid personal injury from scalding coolant, 5

wait until the engine has cooled to room tem-
perature before removing the overheat switch.
07/22/97 f830794
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine, 1. Coolant Heater Assembly Box
chock the tires, and tilt the hood or cab. 2. Coolant Heater Assembly Box Lid
3. Control Unit
2. Disconnect the batteries. 4. 30 Amp Circuit Breaker
3. Remove the two capscrews at the bottom of the 5. Rubber Shock Mount
coolant heater assembly box lid. 6. Heater Unit
7. Lid Capscrew
ant heater assembly box. This will expose both Fig. 1, Coolant Heater Box Assembly
the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1. 11. Lubricate the new overheat switch O-ring with
5. Remove the radiator pressure cap to minimize Vaseline and position it on the new overheat
the cooling system pressure. switch.
6. At the coolant heater, clamp off both the coolant 12. Grease the threads of the new overheat switch
heater hoses, to prevent the coolant from flowing with Molykote paste.
out. 13. Screw in the new overheat switch until resistance
7. Remove the partial load resistor cover ( Fig. 2, can clearly be felt from contact with the heat ex-
Ref. 9). changer. Tighten the overheat switch 12 to 24
lbf·in (135 to 271 N·cm).
(Ref. 11). Remove the 12-pin connector plug. 14. Install the connector pins, of the new overheat
switch, into the 12-pin connector plug housing
NOTE: The following step may require the use (positions 11 and 12).
of special tools for certain connectors and termi-
nals. See Group 54 (wiring) in this manual for 15. Install the 12-pin connector plug firmly onto the
information on special terminals and connectors, holder and install the partial load resistor cover.
and special tools. 16. Slide the three-sided lid onto the base of the
9. Take pins 11 and 12 out of the 12-pin connector
plug housing ( Fig. 3, Refs. 11 and 12). 17. Install the two capscrews at the bottom of the
10. Unscrew and remove the overheat switch ( screws 10 lbf·ft (14 N·m).
Fig. 2, Ref. 12).
18. Remove clamps from both the coolant heater
hoses, at the coolant heater.

9
10 11
7
8
12
7
13
6
3
1
5
4
2
14
23
22 15
18
17 16
19
21
20
10/02/97 f830789

20. Bleed cooling system. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
ing position.

2
4 6 8
10 12
2 4 6 8 10 12
1 3 5 7 9 11
9 11
5 7
3
06/11/97 1 f830790
4. Combustion Air Blower (violet)
7. Flame Sensor (brown)

Partial Load Resistor Replacement
NOTE: To remove the partial load resistor, the NOTE: The following step may require the use
lid of the coolant heater assembly box must be of special tools for certain connectors and termi-
removed. If the location of the coolant heater nals. See Group 54 (wiring) in this manual for
assembly box hinders the removal of the lid, information on special terminals and connectors,
then it may be necessary to move the coolant and special tools.
heater assembly off its mounting bracket. For 7. Take pins 5 and 6 out of the 12-pin connector
instructions, see Subject 100. plug housing ( Fig. 3 or Fig. 4, Refs. 5 and 6).
8. Remove retaining clips from the partial load re-
Replacement (See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) sistor.
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine, 9. Remove the partial load resistor ( Fig. 2, Ref. 8).
chock the tires, and tilt the hood or cab.
10. Install the new partial load resistor and fasten its
2. Disconnect the batteries. retaining clips.
3. Remove the two capscrews at the bottom of the 11. Install the connector pins, of the new partial load
coolant heater assembly box lid. resistor, into the 12-pin connector plug housing
(positions 5 and 6).
ant heater assembly box. This will expose both 12. Install the 12-pin connector plug firmly into the
the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1. holder and install the partial load resistor cover.
1 2 coolant heater assembly box.
4 16. Return and secure the hood or cab in the operat-
3 ing position.
7
6
07/22/97 f830794
1. Coolant Heater Assembly Box

3. Control Unit
6. Heater Unit
7. Lid Capscrew

Ref. 9).

9
10 11
7
8
12
7
13
6
3
1
5
4
2
14
23
22 15
18
17 16
19
21
20
10/02/97 f830789

2 2
4 6 4 6
8 8
10 12 10 12
2 4 6 8 10 12 2 4 6 8 10 12
1 3 5 7 9 11 1 3 5 7 9 11
9 11 9 11
5 7 5 7
3 3
06/11/97 1 f830790 06/11/97 1 f830790
Fig. 3, Model 25-1666 12 Pin-Connector Plug

Coolant Pump Replacement
NOTE: To remove the coolant pump, the lid of

3
WARNING 6

perature before removing the coolant pump.
07/22/97 f830794
3. Control Unit
2. Disconnect the batteries. 4. 30 Amp Circuit Breaker (model 25–1666 only)
7. Lid Capscrew
the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1. 12. Grease the new coolant pump O-ring with Vase-
5. Remove the radiator pressure cap to minimize line and position it on to the new coolant pump.
the cooling system pressure. 13. Install the new coolant pump, into the coolant
6. At the coolant heater, clamp off both the coolant jacket.
heater hoses, to prevent the coolant from flowing 14. Install and tighten snugly the coolant pump
out. clamp.
7. Remove the partial load resistor cover ( Fig. 2, 15. Install the connector pins, of the new coolant
Ref. 9). pump, into the 12-pin connector plug housing
8. Unclip the 12-pin connector plug from the holder (positions 1 and 2).
(Ref. 11). Remove the 12-pin connector plug. 16. Install the 12-pin connector plug firmly into the
NOTE: The following step may require the use holder and install the partial load resistor cover.
of special tools for certain connectors and termi- 17. Slide the three-sided lid onto the base of the
nals. See Group 54 (wiring) in this manual for coolant heater assembly box.
information on special terminals and connectors,
and special tools. 18. Install the two capscrews at the bottom of the
9. Take pins 1 and 2 out of the 12-pin connector screws 10 lbf·ft (14 N·m).
plug housing ( Fig. 3 or Fig. 4, Refs. 1 and 2).
19. Remove clamps from both the coolant heater
10. Loosen and remove the coolant pump clamp ( hoses, at the coolant heater.
Fig. 2, Ref. 17).
11. Remove the coolant pump.
ject 100.

9
10 11
7
8
12
7
13
6
3
1
5
4
2
14
23
22 15
18
17 16
19
21
20
10/02/97 f830789

ing position.

2 2
4 6 4 6
8 8
10 12 10 12
2 4 6 8 10 12 2 4 6 8 10 12
1 3 5 7 9 11 1 3 5 7 9 11
9 11 9 11
5 7 5 7
3 3
06/11/97 1 f830790 06/11/97 1 f830790

Combustion Air Blower Replacement
NOTE: To remove the combustion air blower, NOTE: The following step may require the use
the lid of the coolant heater assembly box must of special tools for certain connectors and termi-
be removed. If the location of the coolant heater nals. See Group 54 (wiring) in this manual for
assembly box hinders the removal of the lid, information on special terminals and connectors,
then it may be necessary to move the coolant and special tools.
heater assembly off its mounting bracket. For 7. For model 25–1666, take pins 3 and 4 out of the
instructions, see Subject 100. 12-pin connector plug housing ( Fig. 3, Refs. 3
and 4). For model 25–1807, take pin 3 out of the
Replacement (See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) 12-pin connector ( Fig. 4, Ref. 3) and disconnect
the connector to the speed change relay.
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine, 8. Loosen the combustion air blower fastening
chock the tires, and tilt the hood or cab. screw.
2. Disconnect the batteries. 9. Remove the combustion air blower ( Fig. 2, Ref.
3. Remove the two capscrews at the bottom of the 21).
coolant heater assembly box lid. 10. Grease the new O-ring on the combustion air
4. Slide the three-sided lid off the base of the cool- blower connection with Vaseline and install the
ant heater assembly box. This will expose both new combustion air blower.
the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1. 11. Install and tighten snugly the combustion air fas-
tening screw.
1 2 12. For model 25–1666, install the connector pins, of
the new combustion air blower, into the 12-pin
connector plug housing (positions 3 and 4). For
model 25–1807, install the new combustion air
blower connectors; connect the connector pin to
position 3 of the 12-pin connector plug; and con-
4 nect the connector to the speed change relay.
3 13. Install the 12-pin connector plug firmly into the
7
holder and install the partial load resistor cover.
6 14. Slide the three-sided lid onto the base of the
5 15. Install the two capscrews at the bottom of the
07/22/97 f830794
1. Coolant Heater Assembly Box 16. Connect the batteries.

2. Coolant Heater Assembly Box Lid 17. Return and secure the hood or cab in the operat-
3. Control Unit ing position.
5. Rubber Shock Mount 18. Remove the chocks from the tires.
6. Heater Unit
7. Lid Capscrew

Ref. 9).

9
10 11
7
8
12
7
13
6
3
1
5
4
2
14
23
22 15
18
17 16
19
21
20
10/02/97 f830789

2 2
4 6 4 6
8 8
10 12 10 12
2 4 6 8 10 12 2 4 6 8 10 12
1 3 5 7 9 11 1 3 5 7 9 11
9 11 9 11
5 7 5 7
3 3
06/11/97 1 f830790 06/11/97 1 f830790

Heat Exchanger Removal and Installation
NOTE: To remove the heat exchanger, the lid of

3
Removal (See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) 7
WARNING 6

perature before removing the heat exchanger.
07/22/97 f830794
3. Control Unit
7. Lid Capscrew
the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1. 13. Loosen and remove the exhaust pipe clamp
5. Remove the radiator pressure cap to minimize (Ref. 20) from the burner. Pull the exhaust pipe
the cooling system pressure. away from the burner.
6. At the coolant heater, clamp of both the coolant 14. Loosen and remove the mounting clamp (Ref.
heater hoses, to prevent the coolant from flowing 13) from the heater unit.
out. 15. Remove the heater unit from the coolant heater
7. Loosen the hose clamps and remove the heater assembly box and stand it up on a work bench.
hoses form the coolant heater. 16. Loosen and remove the burner connector clamp
8. Clamp of the fuel hose, at the coolant heater, to and remove burner. See Fig. 3
prevent the fuel from flowing out. 17. Remove the overheat switch. For instructions,
9. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the fuel see Subject 140 (model 25–1666) or Sub-
hose from the coolant heater. ject 200 (model 25–1807).
10. Unclip the 12-pin connector plug from the holder 18. Remove the temperature sensor. For instruc-
( Fig. 2, Ref. 9). Remove the 12-pin connector tions, see Subject 120.
plug cable. 19. Using a lever, pry the heat exchanger out of the
11. Remove the combustion air blower. For instruc- coolant jacket. See Fig. 4
tions, see Subject 170. 20. Remove the O-ring and Inspect and clean the
12. Remove the flame sensor. For instructions, see heat exchanger.
Subject 130 (model 25–1666) or Subject 190
(model 25–1807).

9
10 11
7
8
12
7
13
6
3
1
5
4
2
14
23
22 15
18
17 16
19
21
20
10/02/97 f830789
1. Flame Sensor (model 25–1666 9. Partial Load Resistor Cover 17. Coolant Pump Clamp
only) 10. 12-Pin Connector Plug Housing 18. Burner Connector Clamp
5. Heat Exchanger 14. Coolant Jacket 22. Flame Sensor (model 25–1807)
8. Partial Load Resistor
Installation 5. Install the burner. Check that the O-ring is seated

correctly and tighten snugly the burner connector
clamp.
1. Grease the new O-ring and position it onto the
heat exchanger . 6. Install the heater unit into the coolant heater as-
sembly box.
2. Install the heat exchanger.
7. Install and tighten snugly the heater unit mount-
3. Install the temperature sensor. For instructions,
ing clamp.
see Subject 120.
8. Position the exhaust pipe into the burner and
4. Install the overheat switch. For instructions, see
snugly tighten the exhaust pipe clamp.
(model 25–1807).

11. Install the 12-pin connector plug firmly into the

holder.
12. Attach and secure the heater hoses and the fuel
hose.
13. Slide the three sided-lid onto the base of the
ject 100.
ing position.
08/06/97 f830806
Fig. 3, Removing the Burner
08/01/97 f830803
Fig. 4, Removing the Heat Exchanger

9. Install the flame sensor. For instructions, see
(model 25–1807).
10. Install the combustion air blower. For instruc-

Model 25–1807 Flame Sensor Replacement
NOTE: To remove the flame sensor, the lid of NOTE: The following step may require the use
the coolant heater assembly box must be re- of special tools for certain connectors and termi-
moved. If the location of the coolant heater as- nals. See Group 54 (wiring) in this manual for
sembly box hinders the removal of the lid, then information on special terminals and connectors,
it may be necessary to move the coolant heater and special tools.
assembly off its mounting bracket. For instruc- 7. Take pins 7 and 9 out of the 12-pin connector
tions, see Subject 100. plug housing ( Fig. 3, Refs. 7 and 9).
8. Unscrew and remove the flame sensor from the
Replacement (See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) heat exchanger exhaust port ( Fig. 2, Ref. 22).
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine, 9. Install the new flame sensor into the heat ex-
chock the tires, and tilt the hood or cab. changer exhaust port. Tighten the flame sensor
down. The final torque is 12 to 24 lbf·in (135 to
2. Disconnect the batteries. 271 N·cm).
3. Remove the two capscrews at the bottom of the 10. Install the flame sensor connector pins into the
coolant heater assembly box lid. 12-pin connector plug housing (positions 7 and
4. Slide the three-sided lid off the base of the cool- 9).
ant heater assembly box. This will expose both 11. Install the 12-pin connector plug firmly into the
the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1. holder and install the partial load resistor cover.
1 2 coolant heater assembly box.
4
3 ing position.
7
6
07/22/97 f830794
1. Coolant Heater Assembly Box

3. Control Unit
6. Heater Unit
7. Lid Capscrew

Ref. 9).

9
10 11
7
8
12
7
13
6
3
1
5
4
2
14
23
22 15
18
17 16
19
21
20
10/02/97 f830789
1. Flame Sensor 10. 12-Pin Connector Plug Housing 18. Burner Connector Clamp
5. Heat Exchanger 14. Coolant Jacket 22. Flame Sensor (model 25–1807
6. Temperature Sensor 15. Coolant Pump O-Ring only)
7. Grommet 16. Coolant Pump 23. Retaining Spring (model 25–
8. Partial Load Resistor 17. Coolant Pump Clamp 1666 only)
9. Partial Load Resistor Cover

2
4 6 8
10 12
2 4 6 8 10 12
1 3 5 7 9 11
9 11
5 7
3
06/11/97 1 f830790
4. Not Used
5. Speed Change Relay (black)
6. Combustion Air Blower and Speed Change Relay
(black/red)

NOTE: To remove the overheat switch, the lid of

3
WARNING 6

perature before removing the overheat switch.
07/22/97 f830794
3. Control Unit
7. Lid Capscrew
the heater unit and the control unit. See Fig. 1. 12. Lubricate the new overheat switch O-ring with
5. Remove the radiator pressure cap to minimize Vaseline and position it on the new overheat
the cooling system pressure. switch.
6. At the coolant heater, clamp off both the coolant 13. Install the new overheat switch into the water
heater hoses, to prevent the coolant from flowing jacket.
out. 14. Install the cross-recessed screws and tighten
7. Remove the partial load resistor cover ( Fig. 2, them snugly.
Ref. 9). 15. Install the connector pins, of the new overheat
8. Unclip the 12-pin connector plug from the holder switch, into the 12-pin connector plug housing
(Ref. 11). Remove the 12-pin connector plug. (positions 11 and 12).
NOTE: The following step may require the use 16. Install the 12-pin connector plug firmly onto the
of special tools for certain connectors and termi- holder and install the partial load resistor cover.
nals. See Group 54 (wiring) in this manual for 17. Slide the three-sided lid onto the base of the
information on special terminals and connectors, coolant heater assembly box.
and special tools.
9. Take pins 11 and 12 out of the 12-pin connector coolant heater assembly box lid. Tighten the cap-
plug housing ( Fig. 3, Refs. 11 and 12). screws 10 lbf·ft (14 N·m).
10. Unscrew and remove the overheat switch cross- 19. Remove clamps from both the coolant heater
recessed screws ( Fig. 4). hoses, at the coolant heater.
11. Remove the spring loaded overheat switch ( 20. Connect the batteries.
Fig. 4).

9
10 11
7
8
12
7
13
6
3
1
5
4
2
14
23
22 15
18
17 16
19
21
20
10/02/97 f830789

ject 100.
ing position.

2
4 6 8
10 12 2
1
2 4 6 8 10 12
1 3 5 7 9 11
9 11
5 7
3 10/15/97 f541788
06/11/97 1 f830790
1. Overheat Switch
1. Coolant Pump (black) 2. Cross-Recessed Screw
2. Coolant Pump (brown) 3. O-ring
4. Not Used Fig. 4, Replace Overheat Switch
5. Speed Change Relay (black)
6. Combustion Air Blower and Speed Change Relay
(black/red)

Troubleshooting
Preliminary Checks A. Troubleshooting using the troubleshooting tables;

B. Troubleshooting using a test light or the LED;
If the coolant heater fails to operate, check the fol-
lowing before troubleshooting the system. C. Troubleshooting using a D5W/D7W circuit tester;
• The circuit breaker or fuses on the power har- D. and, Troubleshooting the fuel supply.
ness for continuity;
• The glow plug for a good electrical connection;
• The electrical lines and connections for conti-
nuity;
• The combustion air inlet and exhaust pipe out-
let for blockage;
• The coolant pump; If the coolant pump does
not start running after the heater is switched
on, check for voltage at the coolant pump
motor. If voltage is present, replace the coolant
pump. If voltage is not present, replace the
control unit.
• The overheat switch for being triggered. If the 10/09/97 f830815
overheat switch was triggered, then reset it by Fig. 1, Reset the Overheat Switch
pressing the raised knob down to the rubber
cover on the switch. See Fig. 1.
Troubleshooting Tables (Model
If the heater still does not function properly, then pro-
ceed with the following troubleshooting methods. 25–1666 and Model 25–1807)
There are four methods for troubleshooting the op-
eration of the D7W coolant heater, which include:
Problem—At Start, the Heater Runs Thirty Seconds Then Shuts Off
Problem—At Start, the Heater Runs Thirty Seconds then Shuts Off
An under voltage condition exists. Check and charge the battery.
An overvoltage condition exists. Check the vehicles charging system.
The electrical connections are corroded. Clean the electrical connections.
Problem—In Low Position, the Flame Goes Out By Itself

Problem—In Low Position, the Flame Goes Out By Itself
The heater is not getting enough fuel from Measure the fuel quantity.
the fuel metering pump.
The blower speed is not reducing from Replace the partial load resistor. Replace the control unit. Replace the change
high to low. over relay (model 25–1807 only).

Troubleshooting
Problem—The Heater Failed to Ignite After Ninety Seconds of Fuel Being Pumped, Resulting in an Automatic
Malfunction Shutdown
Problem—The Heater Failed to Ignite After Ninety Seconds of Fuel Being Pumped, Resulting in an Automatic
Malfunction Shutdown
The glow plug is damaged. Replace the glow plug.
No fuel present. Fill the fuel tank.
The fuel metering pump is seized. Replace the fuel metering pump.
The fuel metering pump has a short Check the electrical plug at the fuel metering pump for a loose connection.
circuit.
The fuel metering pump is not receiving Replace the control unit.
electrical pulses from the control unit.
Problem—Automatic Malfunction Shutdown After Three to Five Minutes

The flame sensor leads are reversed. Check that the brown wire is a common and the white wire is connected to
the glow plug voltage regulator at terminal 30.
The flame sensor is fouled. Remove and clean the flame sensor (model 25–1666 only).
The flame sensor is damaged. Replace the flame sensor.
Troubleshooting Using a Test code in the appropriate chart (Fig. 4 [model 25–
1666] or Fig. 5 [model 25–1807]).
Light or LED 3. Once the displayed light signal is identified with a
fault signal/flashing code (signal number in the
The D7W coolant heater is equipped with an auto-
chart), use the signal number (fault signal/
matic testing capability which can be used to check
flashing code) and the applicable problem table
the cause of failure. To use this troubleshooting fea-
that follows to identify what component is at fault.
ture, model 25–1666 requires the use of an electrical
test light (Espar part number CA1–05–001), model
25–1807 is equipped with a troubleshooting LED DISPLAY SIGNAL
(Fig. 2) that provides a full time diagnostic display. TROUBLESHOOTING TABLES
1. If you are troubleshooting a model 25–1807 cool- (MODEL 25–1666 )
ant heater, proceed to the next step, otherwise,
set up the test light by connecting it to the pins For signal number identification, see Fig. 4.
marked "TEST" and "S" on the control unit. See
Fig. 3.
2. Turn the coolant heater on and watch the light
signals displayed at the test light or LED. The
light signals will repeat. Compare (identify) the
displayed light signal to a fault signal/flashing

Troubleshooting
Signal # Fault Signal/Flashing Code
1
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
10/15/97 f830817
13
1. Troubleshooting LED
14 No Flashing Code
Fig. 2, Troubleshooting LED (model 25-1807)
10/14/97 f040396
Fig. 4, Model 25-1666 Signal Code Chart

1
07/22/97 f830800
1. Control Unit Connector

2. Test Light
Fig. 3, Test Light Set Up

Troubleshooting
Signal # Fault Signal/Flashing Code
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9 No Flashing Code
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
10/15/97 f040397
Fig. 5, Model 25-1807 Signal Code Chart
Problem—No Problem, Trouble-Free Operation

Signal Number Possible Cause Remedy
The heater is in the No action required.
1 start mode, the glow
plug is preheating.

Troubleshooting

The heater is No action required.
running under
2
normal operating
conditions.
Problem—During Running, Delayed Shut Off and Restart

Problem—During Running, Delayed Shut Off and Restart
The heater is not Wait until the end of the delayed shut-off.
3
shut off.
The water Wait until the temperature has fallen below the triggering point.
temperature is still
above the triggering
3
point for the
temperature sensor
(158°F/70°C).
The flame sensor is Replace the flame sensor.
3
damaged.
The temperature Replace the temperature sensor.
3
sensor is damaged.
Problem—Overheating, Automatic Malfunction Shutdown

Problem—Overheating, Automatic Malfunction Shutdown
The wiring to the Check electrical connections to and from the coolant pump.
5 coolant pump is
interrupted.
The coolant level is Fill the radiator with coolant.
5
low.
The engine cooling Bleed the cooling system.
5 system is not
properly bled.
The engine water Replace the engine water pump.
5
pump is damaged.
The overheat switch Reset the overheat switch.
5
tripped.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Flame Sensor Short Circuit

Problem—Flame Sensor Short Circuit
There is a short Remove and clean the flame sensor.
6 circuit in the flame
sensor.
Problem—In High Position, the Flame Goes Out By Itself

Problem—In High Position, the Flame Goes Out By Itself
The heater is not Measure the fuel quantity.
getting enough fuel
8
from the fuel
metering pump.
There is a vapor If the fuel line is getting to hot, reposition the fuel line.
8
lock in the fuel line.
8
fouled or damaged.
Problem—Glow Plug Failure

Problem—Glow Plug Failure
The glow plug fuse Replace the glow plug fuse.
9 (16 amp) is
damaged.
The glow plug is Replace the glow plug.
9
damaged.
Problem—Cut-Out Due to Under Voltage

Problem—Cut-Out Due to Under Voltage
The battery charge Check the battery and charge if needed.
11
is low.
The electrical Clean the electrical connections.
11 connections are
corroded.
Problem—Cut-Out Due to Overvoltage

Problem—Cut-Out Due to Overvoltage
The voltage to the Check the controller. Connect the heater directly to the battery (this will
12
heater is too high. bypass the dynamo regulator).

Troubleshooting

The flame sensor Check that the brown wire is a common and the white wire is connected to
13
leads are reversed. the glow plug voltage regulator at terminal 30.
The flame sensor is Remove and clean the flame sensor.
13
fouled.
13
damaged.
The heater is not Measure the fuel quantity.
getting enough fuel
13
from the fuel
metering pump.
Problem—Sooty Combustion
Problem—Sooty Combustion
The combustion air Remove the clog in either the combustion air line or exhaust line.
14 line or exhaust line
is clogged up.
The fuel metering Measure the fuel quantity.
14 pump is delivering to
much fuel.
The combustion air Replace the combustion air blower motor.
14 blower speed is too
low.
The heat exchanger Remove and clean the heat exchanger.
14
is dirty.
DISPLAY SIGNAL
TROUBLESHOOTING TABLES
(MODEL 25–1807)
For signal number identification, see Fig. 5.
The heater is No action required.
running under
1
normal operating
conditions

Troubleshooting
Problem—Warning Voltage (Under/Over)

Problem—Warning Voltage (Under/Over)
An overvoltage The voltage at the control unit (between the connector pins A12 and B12) is
condition has been greater than 14.5 volts.
2
detected during pre-
heating.
An under voltage The voltage at the control unit (between the connector pins A12 and B12) is
condition has been less than 11 volts.
2
detected during pre-
heating.
Problem—Under Voltage
Problem—Under Voltage
A low voltage For more than 20 seconds, the voltage at the control unit (between the
4 shutdown has connector pins A12 and B12) has been less than 10.2 volts.
occurred.
Problem—Overheating
Problem—Overheating
The engine coolant The overheating switch has triggered. Check the water flow, clear any
5 temperature is too restrictions in the cooling system, open the heating valves, bleed the cooling
high. system.
The heat exchanger The flame sensor has reported a temperature greater than 1022°F/ 560°C
5 temperature is too (which corresponds to 3000 ohms). Check the flame sensor connections at
high. the control unit (connector pins A4 and A5).
Problem—Glow Plug Relay

Problem—Glow Plug Relay
There is an Check the coil connection at the glow plug relay (connections 85 and 86).
7 interruption in the Check the connections to the control unit.
current regulator.
Problem—Glow or Overheating
There is a short Check the coil connection at the glow plug relay (connections 85 and 86).
8 circuit in the current Check the connection to the control unit at the connector pin B6.
regulator coil.
The coolant pump Check the coolant pump (external triggering). Check the connections to the
8
does not rotate. control unit at connector pins A11 and A13.

Troubleshooting
The water Check the water circulation, the overheating switch has triggered. Clear any
Temperature is restrictions in the cooling system, open the heating valves, bleed the cooling
8
rising too quickly. system. Check the connections at the temperature sensor. Check the
connections to the control unit at the connector pins A5 and A6.
Problem—Combustion Air Fan

Problem—Combustion Air Fan
The combustion air Check the combustion air fan. Check the motor speed relay (see wiring
10 fan does not rotate. diagram in Subject 400). Check connections to the control unit at the
connector pins A11 and B1.
Problem—Fuel Metering Pump

Problem—Fuel Metering Pump
There is a short Check the fuel metering pump. Check the connections to the control unit at
11 circuit in the fuel the connector pins A10 and B10.
metering pump.
Problem—No Start Safety Time Exceeded

Problem—No Start Safety Time Exceeded
The heater has No flame was detected during the start up phase of operation. The flame
failed to start, the sensor temperature value is less than 194°F/90°C (corresponding to 1350
13 safety time has ohms). Check the fuel supply, the glow plug, the exhaust piping, the
expired. combustion air piping, and the flame sensor (the set points are: 900 ohms at
-13°F/-25°C; 1100 ohms at 77°F/25°C).
Problem—Flame Out
Problem—Flame Out
During the high The heater has started (flame detected) and, for the selected mode setting, a
mode of operation, flame loss has been indicated. Check the fuel flow rate, the blower speed, the
14 the flame went out. fuel supply, the exhaust piping, and the combustion air piping. If the
combustion is okay, check the flame sensor (the set points are: 900 ohms at
-13°F/-25°C; 1100 ohms at 77°F/25°C) and, if necessary, replace it.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Temperature Sensor
Problem—Temperature Sensor
The temperature The measured temperature lies outside the measured range. Check the
sensor is either sensor (the set points are: 650 ohms at -13°F/-25°C; 1000 ohms at 77°F/
16
interrupted or has a 25°C). Check the connections to the control unit at the connector pins A5 and
short circuit. A6.
Problem—Flame Sensor
Problem—Flame Sensor
The flame sensor is The measured temperature lies outside the measured range. Check the
either interrupted or sensor (the set points are: 900 ohms at -13°F/-25°C; 1100 ohms at 77°F/
17
has a short circuit. 25°C). Check the connections to the control unit at the connector pins A4 and
A5.
Problem—External Electrical Interference

Problem—External Electrical Interference
There is external Check the voltage supply. Check the connections to the control unit at the
19 interference connector pins A12 and B12.
(voltage).
Troubleshooting Using a D5W/ 3. Ensure proper power, fuel, and coolant connec-
tions.
D7W Circuit Tester
D5W/D7W CIRCUIT TESTER
This method of troubleshooting helps troubleshoot
problems faster and more accurately; it requires the OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
use of an Espar D5W/D7W circuit tester. See Fig. 6. 1. Move the power switch to the on position. The
This method performs three operations of analysis: voltmeter will indicate the voltage across the con-
testing the resistance of the individual components; trol unit. The voltage must range from 10 to 14
checking for continuity of each circuit; and running volts or 20 to 28 volts on a 12 volt or 24 volt sys-
the heater manually. tem respectively.
NOTE: To use this tester (part number CA1–05– 2. Test the resistance of the individual components.
010) with model 25–1807, Adapter (part number 2.1 Move any of the nine switches on the right
CA1–05–023) is required. hand side of the tester to the check posi-
tion. Do not measure the resistance of
D5W/D7W CIRCUIT TESTER more than one component at a time. Eight
switches must always remain in the off
INITIAL SET UP position.
1. Turn off all the switches, on the D5W/D7W circuit 2.2 Take note of the measured resistance of
tester. each component in the system. The ohm-
2. Plug in the connectors from the tester to the cor- meter will indicate the resistance value of
responding connectors on the heater harness. each component as high or low resis-
tance. See Table 1 for the component re-

Troubleshooting
HEAT HEAT COMBUSTION
SWITCH ON
EXCHANGER
POWER
ESpar
HEATER
EXCHANGER BLOWER WATER
ON ON
SYSTEMS
CHECK
MOTOR CHECK PUMP CHECK
OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF
COMBUSTION FUEL
GLOW PARTIAL METERING
BLOWER WATER VOLTAGE PLUG RESISTOR PUMP
MOTOR PUMP CHECK CHECK CHECK
HIGH ON
OFF
LOW OFF OFF OFF OFF
0 12 24 30
FUEL
GLOW METERING RESISTANCE PHOTO TEMP OVER
PLUG PUMP EYE SENSOR HEAT
CHECK CHECK CHECK
ON HIGH
OFF
OFF LOW OFF OFF OFF
HI LO
PART NUMBER: CA1 05 010 D53W/D7W CIRCUIT TESTER
06/11/97 f601390
Fig. 6, Espar D5W/D7W Circuit Tester
sistance values. If any measured resis- values (Table 1), then the component
tance values deviate from the required should be replaced.
Component Resistance Table

Component Resistance Value
Combustion Blower Low
Water Pump Low
Glow Plug Low
Overheat Switch Low
Fuel Metering Pump Low
Temperature Sensor Medium
Flame Sensor (photo eye) Model 25–1666 High (in the dark), Decreasing to Low (when exposed to light)
Flame Sensor (temperature) Model 25–1807 High (heat exchanger cool), Low (heat exchanger warm)
Partial Load Resistor Low
Heat Exchanger Low
Table 1, Component Resistance Table
3. Test the operation of the coolant heater on/off 3.1 Move the coolant heater on/off switch or
switch or timer. timer to the on position.

Troubleshooting
3.2 Take note of the red (switch-on) LED on 3. The heater is now running at low heat.
the left side of the circuit tester. When this
LED is illuminated, it indicates that the Cool Down
on/off switch or timer is manually turned
1. Move the fuel metering pump switch to the off
on.
position.
MANUALLY RUNNING THE 2. Move the blower motor switch to the high posi-
tion. Wait for 180 seconds (3 minutes) for the
HEATER heater to cool down.
Start Up 3. Move the combustion blower motor switch to the
off position.
1. Move the combustion blower motor switch to the
high position. The combustion blower motor will 4. Move the water pump switch to the off position.
run at high speed. 5. The heater is now off. Turn the power switch off
2. Move the water pump switch to the on position. and disconnect the tester.
The water pump will pump coolant through the
system. Troubleshooting the Fuel
3. Move the glow plug switch to the on position and
wait for 30 seconds. The glow plug begins pre-
Supply
heating. The fuel quantity should be tested if the heater has
NOTE: The combustion blower motor speed will difficulty starting or maintaining a flame.
decrease due to a voltage drop (voltmeter read- IMPORTANT: Only measure the fuel quantity
ing will drop). when the battery is sufficiently charged. While
4. Move the fuel metering pump switch to the high conducting this procedure, the voltage to the
position. The fuel metering pump will pump fuel control unit must be within a range of 11 to 13
to the combustion chamber and establish a volts (22 to 26 volts for 24 volt systems).
flame.
1. Disconnect the electrical plug terminal between
NOTE: If the fuel metering pump does not re- the control unit and the glow plug. Connect a test
ceive the electric pulses then the overheat lamp on the control unit side of the plug. See
switch may be tripped. Reset the overheat Fig. 7.
switch. Check the fuse in the circuit tester and if 2. Detach the fuel line from the coolant heater and
blown replace it with a AGC-1 fuse. insert it into a measuring glass.
High Heat 3. Connect the voltmeter to the control unit. For
model 25–1666, the negative line of the voltme-
1. Once a flame is established (the sound of com- ter connects to terminal four of the six pin plug
bustion is heard) wait 30 seconds and switch the and the positive line of the voltmeter connects to
glow plug off. terminal six of the eight pin plug. For model 25–
NOTE: The combustion blower motor speed and 1807, the negative line of the voltmeter connects
the fuel metering pump pulse frequency will in- to connector pin A12 and the positive line of the
voltmeter connects to connector pin A13. See
crease due to voltage increase. Fig. 7.
2. The heater is now running at high heat. 4. To fill and bleed the fuel line, turn the heater
Low Heat switch on and allow the fuel to fill the measuring
glass (the fuel will start to pump 25 to 55 sec-
1. Move the combustion blower motor switch to the onds after the heater is switched on). Turn off the
low position. heater and empty the glass.
2. Move the fuel metering pump switch to the low 5. Turn on the heater switch. Fuel will begin to
position. pump 25 to 55 seconds after the heater is

Troubleshooting
2
1
3
13 12 6 4
A B
12
13 6 4
10/09/97 5 4 f830814
1. Test Lamp 4. Model 25–1666 Connectors
2. Control Unit 5. Model 25–1807 Connectors
3. Voltmeter
Fig. 7, Test Light and Voltmeter Connections
switched on. Hold the fuel line in the measuring 11. Transpose the fuel quantity and the voltage read-
glass while fuel is being delivered. ings to the appropriate diagram (Fig. 8).
6. Hold the measuring glass at the level of the plug 12. The fuel consumption is okay if the intersection
terminal while taking this measurement. of the two readings is with in the limit curves. If
7. Use a stop watch to time the period that the fuel the intersection is outside the limit curves, re-
place the fuel metering pump.
metering pump delivers fuel to the measuring
glass. NOTE: Do not adjust the fuel metering pump.
8. Record the voltage at the voltmeter (volt). The Adjustments will only provide a temporary re-
fuel feed will cutoff automatically after the fuel pair.
has pumped for 60 to 90 seconds. Record the
time period that the fuel was pumped (60s or
90s).
9. Turn off the heater.
10. Record the fuel quantity in the measuring glass
in milliliters (ml).

Troubleshooting
ml/60 s
D7W ml/90 s
D7W
22 31
29
20
27
18
25
16
23
14
21
12
19
10 17
10 12 14 VOLT 10 12 14 VOLT
20 24 28 20 24 28
10/02/97 f830805
Fig. 8, Fuel Quantity Limit Diagrams

Specifications
Specification Tables Coolant Pump Flow Specifications

Coolant Pump Flow ±10%
Heat Output Specifications 420 US Gal/hr (1600 Liter/hr)
Heat Output ±10% Table 6, Coolant Pump Flow Specifications
High 24,000 BTU (7 Kw)
Low 6,000 BTU (1.75 Kw)
Temperature Specifications
Table 1, Heat Output Specifications
Temperature Limits
Coolant Temperature 176 to 201°F (80 to 95°C)
Current Specifications (model 25-1666 only) Range ±5%
Current at 12 Volts ±10% Overheat Temperature 275°F (135°C)
±10%
Start (1 to 2 minutes) 26 amps/hr
Table 7, Temperature Specifications
Running High 7.5 amps/hr
Running Low 4.2 amps/hr
Voltage Specifications (model 25-1666)
Table 2, Current Specifications (model 25-1666 only)
Operating Voltage Range
12 Volt System 10.5 to 14.0 Volts
Current Specifications (model 25-1807 only)
24 Volt System 21 to 28 Volts
Current at 12 Volts ±10%
Table 8, Voltage Specifications (model 25-1666)
Start (1 to 2 minutes) 24.6 amps/hr
Running High 5.8 amps/hr
Voltage Specifications (model 25-1807)
Running Low 4.2 amps/hr
Operating Voltage Range
Table 3, Current Specifications (model 25-1807 only)
12 Volt System
10.5 to 15.0 Volts
Current Specifications (model 25-1666 only)
Table 9, Voltage Specifications (model 25-1807)
Current at 24 Volts ±10%
Start (1 to 2 minutes) 22 amps/hr
Running High 3.8 amps/hr Wiring Diagrams
Running Low 2 amps/hr
For electrical troubleshooting, consult the wiring dia-
Table 4, Current Specifications (model 25-1666 only) grams. See Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, or Fig. 5.
Fuel Consumption Specifications

Fuel Consumption ±5%
Low Heat High Heat
0.06 US Gal/hr (0.22 Liter/ 0.24 US Gal/hr (0.90 Liter/
hr) hr)
Table 5, Fuel Consumption Specifications

Specifications
3 4
GREY
5 6
2 GREY
RED RED
1 WHITE
BLACK
BROWN
2 YELLOW
RED
1 3 BROWN
BROWN
BROWN
7
VIOLET
WHITE A RED
BROWN B YELLOW
BROWN
BLACK C BROWN
17 GREY
15(K)
BLACK WHITE
BROWN K(15) 31
BROWN
BLACK
BLK/RED
WHITE
GREEN/YELLOW
M
GREEN/WHITE
BLACK
GREY
BLUE
M
WHITE
15
16 30
87
31 9
WHITE
15
BROWN
RED BROWN
BROWN
8
1
RED/YELLOW
BROWN YELLOW 2
3
RED
BROWN
4
98S 98S 98S RED
RED BLUE
BLACK
YELLOW
BLACK
BROWN
14
Control Unit
12
1 2 3 4 1 1 2 3
5 6 7 8 2 4 5 6
10
13
ORANGE ORANGE TO BUNK BLOWER 98Y 98Y TO SWITCH FOR BLOWER
11 MOTOR RESISTORS SPEED CONTROL
08/13/97 F830807
1. Flame Sensor 8. Room Thermostat 13. Fuel Metering Pump
2. Glow Plug 9. Coolant Pump 14. Main Fuse 30A
3. Temperature Sensor 10. Heat Exchanger Blower Fuse 3A 15. Glow Plug Voltage Regulator
4. Partial Load Resistor 11. Control Unit 16. Battery
5. Overheat Switch 12. Coolant Pump & Blower Fuse 17. Burner Motor
6. 99 Hour Digital Timer 15A
7. On/Off Switch
Fig. 1, Espar Heater Wiring Diagram (model 25-1666)

Specifications
5
4
1 2 3
19
A B
7
6
18
17
8
16
10
11 9
15 12
13
14
Ref. Dia.: D06−24758000
10/22/97 f541797
A. To Bunk Blower Motor Resistor (98 Y)
B. To Switch for Blower Speed Control (98 Y)
1. Glow Plug 8. 99 Hour Digital Timer 14. Relay For Vehicle Blower
2. Temperature Sensor 9. Battery 15. Control Unit
3. Partial Load Resistor 10. Coolant Pump/Blower Fuse, 15 16. Diagnostic LED
4. Change Over Relay Amp 17. Glow Plug Relay
5 Overheat Switch 11. Main Fuse, 25 Amp 18. Burner Motor
6. Coolant Pump 12. Vehicle Blower Fuse, 10 Amp 19. Flame Sensor
7. Room Thermostat 13. Fuel Metering Pump
Fig. 2, Espar Heater Wiring Diagram (model 25-1807)

Specifications
1 2
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
C
3 ref Dia D06−20985
03/09/98 f542427
A. Main Cab Harness
B. To Espar Thermostat, Auxiliary Heater
C. Chassis Harness
1. Espar Heater On/Off Switch 3. Espar Coolant Heater 4. Batteries
2. Espar Heater 99 Hour Timer
Fig. 3, FLB and FLD Espar Heater Cab Wiring

Specifications
A B C
1 2 98S*
F1A
A
M1A
98S*
M5B
30 85 86 87 87A
A
98S B
98S C 98S A
D GND C GND F1A M1A
E 98Z B 98Z
GND F GND 98S A 98S
F6G M6G F3B M3B
GND
GND
98S
F 71
98Z
98S
98Y
4
A
B 98E
16 15 +
12V M4E
C
D
F4E
GND
3 GND 98F 6
M1A
C H M L B (TYP)
98S*
98Z
98Z
30 85 86 87 87A
98Z
M5B
120 71 98S
98S*
5
10 AMP
18
98Y
A
B 98S 98S* A A
C 98S* A GND A
98Y* B B
E D
E
F
F1A M1A
14 F1A M1A
F1A M1A GND C C
F1A M1A F1A M1A A
A
B 98E
F1A M1A
D
13 M3B
C
F3B
98F
12 1
D
M4F
98Y 7
2
B 98E
3
A 98F
C
4
11
A
5
98E
M1A 1 AMP
98S F
98R 98K E
98N D
ORG B GND C
98U B
GND
GND A GND
F2K M2K 98J A
M6G F6G
10
98E
98E*
98J
T
98K
98S*
9 98U
8
98N
M2H
30 85 86 87 87A
REF DIA D06−24758

M5B
03/09/98 f542429
A. Main Cab Harness
B. Bunk Harness
C. Heater Control Harness
D. Thermostat Harness
E. Chassis Harness
F. From Ignition Switch
1. Component Mounting Plate 7. ATC Board Assembly 12. Resistor
2. Relay 8. Medium Speed Relay 13. Espar Coolant Heater
3. Control Panel 9. Water Valve 14. Behr Auxiliary Heater Unit
4. Relay 10. Thermistor 15. A/C On/Off Switch
5. Fan Switch, Off 11. Motor 16. Main Combination Thermostat
6. Espar Thermostat
Fig. 4, Cab Auxiliary Heater Wiring (model 25-1807)

Specifications
A B C
1 2
9 9
9 9 9 9
9
E 9
9 9
3 9
4 9
12 9
9
9
9
9
5
11 9 6
10
9
9
9
8
9
9
9
7
9
ref Dia D06−21944
03/09/98 f542428
A. Main Cab Harness
B. Overhead Harness
C. Heater Control Harness
D. Chassis Harness
E. From Ignition Switch
1. Component Mounting Plate 5. Fan Switch, Off 9. Red Dot Auxiliary Heater
2. Relay 6. Espar Thermostat 10. Espar Coolant Heater
3. Control Panel 7. Motor 11. A/C On/Off Switch
4. Relay 8. Resistor 12. Main Combination Thermostat
Fig. 5, Cab Auxiliary Heater Wiring (model 25-1666)

Horton DriveMaster Fan Clutch 20.10
General Information
General Information
The Horton DriveMaster® fan clutch is a temperature-
controlled, air-operated clutch for the engine cooling
fan. It is spring engaged, and controls the engine
temperature by engaging or disengaging the fan.
When the coolant temperature is below a specified
range, air pressure keeps the fan disengaged to
save engine power. When the coolant temperature
rises above the specified range, air pressure to the
fan clutch is cut off and internal spring pressure en-
gages the fan.
Air pressure to the fan clutch is controlled by a sole-
noid valve; the solenoid valve is controlled by a tem-
perature switch installed in the thermostat housing.
The temperature switch is connected to the engine
ECM, which controls the solenoid valve. See Fig. 1.
When you start a cold engine, the solenoid valve al-
lows air pressure to the fan clutch and the clutch re-
mains disengaged. When the coolant temperature
rises to the temperature switch setting, the switch
provides power to the solenoid valve and the valve
cuts off compressed air to engage the fan.
receiver-dryer. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the
setting of the fan cycling switch, the switch supplies
power to the solenoid valve, which cuts off air to the
fan clutch, engaging the fan.

20.10 Horton DriveMaster Fan Clutch
General Information
3
1 2
5
4
6
10
9
D
+12V
C 11
A C 12
C
7
+12V
8 14
B 13
08/11/2005 f544122
A. To Indicators and Gauges C. Normally Closed
B. To Electronic Injectors and Other Actuators D. Normally Open
1. Fan Override Switch 6. Foot Throttle 9. Solenoid Valve
2. Air Temperature Sensor 7. Engine ECM 10. Air Supply from Reservoir
3. Engine Speed Sensor 8. Fan Relay (not present in all 11. Fan Clutch
4. A/C Pressure Switch systems) 12. Air Supply to Fan Clutch
Fig. 1, Fan Clutch Schematic (engine ECM controlled)

Removal 8.1 If equipped with a metal fan ring, remove

the two top fasteners holding the upper
mounting bracket for the fan ring.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brakes, and chock 8.2 Remove the fasteners holding the fan
the tires. clutch mounting bracket to the front of the
engine.
WARNING
WARNING
Wear safety goggles when draining the air sys-
tem or disconnecting an air line because dirt and The fan clutch assembly may weigh up to 55 lbs.
sludge could fly out at high speeds. Don’t direct (25 kg). Be careful when lifting it. Use a helper or
the airstreams at anyone. Don’t disconnected a hoist, if necessary. Failure to use care when
pressurized air lines, as they may whip as air es- lifting the fan clutch could cause the assembly to
capes. Failure to take all necessary precautions fall, which could result in injury or component
could result in personal injury. damage.
2. Drain the air tanks. 8.3 Remove the fan clutch assembly from the
3. Tilt the hood. vehicle. If equipped with a metal fan ring,
carefully push the ring forward to allow
4. Disconnect the left-side hose from the charge air removal of the fan clutch assembly.
cooler.
5. Remove the drive belts from the engine. Installation
6. Disconnect the air line from the fan hub. 1. Using either a helper or a hoist, position the fan
7. Remove the fan. clutch assembly in place on the front of the en-
gine, aligning the holes in the mounting bracket
8. Remove the fan clutch assembly from the en- with those in the front of the engine.
gine. See Fig. 1.
2. Install the fasteners.
3 If equipped with a metal fan ring, don’t tighten
2 the upper fan clutch fasteners completely.
3. Install the drive belts.
4. Connect the air line to the fan clutch.
5. Install the fan. Tighten the fan mounting nuts
firmly.
6. Tighten the M8 fan-clutch mounting fasteners 15
lbf·ft (20 N·m).
1 7. Connect the left-side hose to the charge air

cooler.
05/29/2002 f200576
8. Lower the hood.
1. Hexnut 9. Remove the chocks from the tires.
2. Fan Clutch Assembly
3. Hexbolt,
Fig. 1, Fan Clutch Removal (typical)

Disassembly 4. Apply 80 to 120 psi (552 to 827 kPa) to the fan

clutch to lift the fan mounting disc off the spring
housing/piston assembly.
NOTE: This procedure involves a major rebuild
of the Horton DriveMaster® fan clutch, using
parts from the manufacturer’s Super Kit. If you CAUTION
are replacing just the seals or the air cartridge, Use care when placing the pry bar onto the fan
see Subject 120 for the minor rebuild proce- mounting disc. Make sure it is secure and flat on
dure. the surface. Failure to do so make cause the pry
Refer to Fig. 1 for this procedure. bar to slip, which could result in damage to studs
6
5
4
3
2
1
14 16
15 17
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
05/30/2002 f200568
1. Fan Mounting Disc 6. Air Chamber Seal 12. Air Cartridge Retaining Ring
2. Torx®-Head Screw (8 qty.) 7. Air Chamber Cap Retaining Ring 13. Air Cartridge Assembly
3. Friction Lining 8. O-Ring 14. Sheave Bearings
4. Cage Nut (supplied with repair 9. Air Chamber Cap 15. Bearing Spacer
kit) 10. Face Seal 16. Sheave
5. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly 11. Bearing Nut 17. Journal Bracket
Fig. 1, Horton DriveMaster Fan Clutch

1. Remove the fan clutch assembly from the ve- or the fan mounting disc.
hicle. For instructions, see Subject 100.
5. Using a pry bar, wrench, and a T55 Torx® bit,
2. Put the fan clutch assembly in a vise. loosen the jack bolt (left-hand thread) by turning
it counterclockwise. See Fig. 2.
3. Connect a shop air hose to the fan clutch air in-
let. 6. Unscrew the fan mounting disc from the jack
bolt. See Fig. 3

WARNING
A
1 Do not disassemble the spring housing from the
piston. The interior springs are very strong, and
if released could eject the housing with consider-
2 able force, possibly resulting in serious injury.
Always use the cage nut to hold the spring hous-
ing and the piston together.
8. Using a wrench and a T55 Torx bit to hold the
jack bolt, install the cage nut from the kit onto
the jack bolt (left-hand thread). Hand tighten it
onto the spring housing.
3
The cage nut will keep the spring housing and
piston together as an assembly. It will also main-
tain pressure on the internal springs after the
05/30/2002 f200583
Torx-head screws holding the friction lining in
A. Place the pry bar here. place are removed.
1. Pry Bar (push clockwise)
2. Torx Bit and Wrench (turn counterclockwise) 9. Release the air pressure from the fan clutch.
3. Shop Air Hose (connected to the inlet port)
Fig. 2, Loosening the Jack Bolt WARNING

Release the air pressure from the fan clutch be-
fore removing the friction lining Torx-head
screws. Failure to release the air pressure could
result in the spring housing/piston assembly be-
1 ing ejected with force, which could result in per-
sonal injury.
10. Using a T27 Torx bit, remove the eight Torx-head
screws holding the friction lining in place.
2
11. Remove the friction lining. See Fig. 4.
12. Keeping the cage nut installed and tightened,
remove the spring housing/piston assembly. See
Fig. 5 .
13. Remove the air chamber seal. See Fig. 6 .
14. Examine the inside of the air chamber for signs
08/07/2002 f200586
of moisture and/or contaminants.
1. Fan Mounting Disc
2. Jack Bolt (left-hand thread) 15. Remove the air chamber cap retaining ring. See
Fig. 6 .
Fig. 3, Fan Mounting Disc Removal and Installation
16. Using two small screwdrivers placed 180 de-
7. Inspect the fan mounting disc for wear or dam- grees apart, gently and evenly pry the air cham-
age. ber cap out of the sheave.
17. Remove the O-ring seal from the air chamber
cap. See Fig. 6 .
18. Remove the face seal. See Fig. 6 .

1
4
3 2
2
1
3
06/05/2002 f200571
1. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly
2. Cage Nut
3. Friction Lining
4. Torx-Head Screws
Fig. 4, Friction Lining Removal and Installation

06/05/2002 f200573
1. Air Chamber Seal 4. Air Chamber Cap
2 2. Retaining Ring 5. Face Seal
3. O-Ring Seal
Fig. 6, Air Chamber Seal Removal and Installation

20. Remove the bearing nut from the mounting
bracket. See Fig. 7 .
1
21. Remove the sheave from the mounting bracket.
See Fig. 8 .
22. If replacing the bearings, support the sheave and
press them out.
23. Clean and remove any dirt, debris, or corrosion
that may be present.
05/28/2002 f200572
24. Remove the air cartridge.
1. Air Chamber 24.1 Remove the retaining ring. See Fig. 9.
2. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly (with cage nut
installed) 24.2 Remove the air cartridge assembly. See
Fig. 10 .
Fig. 5, Spring Housing/Piston Assembly Removal and
Installation
Assembly
19. Inspect the face seal for signs of wear. Wear in-
dicates that dirt may exist in the air system 1. If necessary, clean the air cartridge bore in the
mounting bracket.

05/29/2002 f200574
1. Bearing Nut
2. Mounting Bracket
Fig. 7, Bearing Nut Removal and Installation

07/13/94 f200029a
Fig. 9, Retaining Ring Removal and Installation

1
1
05/29/2002 f200575
05/29/2002 f200578
1. Sheave
2. Mounting Bracket 1. Float Seal Tip
2. Air Cartridge
Fig. 8, Removing the Sheave
Fig. 10, Removing the Air Cartridge
NOTE: The sheave bearings do not require lu-
brication. 2.1 If equipped with two bearings, assemble
the bearings so the markings on their
2. If replacing the sheave bearings, do the follow- edges line up to form an arrow. See
ing:

Fig. 11 . It doesn’t matter which way the 3. Apply O-ring lubricant from the kit to the outside
arrow faces when the bearings are in- O-rings of the new air cartridge assembly. See
stalled. Fig. 13 .
1 1
A
3
3 A
1 1 03/27/2000 f200515
A. Convex surface of the retaining ring goes toward
05/30/2002 f200582 the air cartridge.
A. Align the markings to form an arrow. 1. Retaining Ring
1. Sheave Bearing 2. O-Rings
3. Air Cartridge
Fig. 11, Aligning the Bearings
Fig. 13, Installing the Air Cartridge Retaining Ring
IMPORTANT: If the fan clutch uses spacers,
be sure to install them between the bear- 4. Install the new air cartridge assembly into the
mounting bracket.
ings.
5. Install the retaining ring, making sure the convex
2.2 Supporting the sheave, press the new
surface of the ring is toward the air cartridge.
sheave bearings — and spacers, if appli-
See Fig. 13 .
cable — into place. Note the position of
the lip inside the sheave. 6. Using a clean, dry cloth, clean both the float seal
tip of the air cartridge and the face seal of the air
2.3 Slide the sheave onto the mounting
chamber cap.
bracket. See Fig. 8 .
7. Assemble the air chamber cap and face seal.
2.4 Making sure that the bearing nut hex is
See Fig. 6 .
facing up, install the bearing nut. See
Fig. 12 . Tighten 130 lbf·ft (176 N·m). See Tighten the face seal 75 to 100 lbf·in (850 to
Fig. 7 . 1130 N·cm).
8. Lubricate the O-ring seal with the fresh lubricant
from the kit.
A
9. Install the O-ring seal on the air chamber cap.
See Fig. 6 .
10. Carefully set the air chamber cap into the
sheave. See Fig. 6 .
B 11. Install the retaining ring. See Fig. 6 .

05/30/2002 f200580 12. Install the air chamber seal into the sheave. Be
A. Hex faces up. sure the seal is evenly seated against the side
B. Relief faces toward mounting bracket and and bottom of the groove surfaces, and the "V"
bearings. of the seal is facing down. See Fig. 14 .
Fig. 12, Correct Bearing Nut Orientation 13. Lubricate contact surfaces with the fresh lubri-
cant from the kit.

19. Remove the cage nut from the spring housing/

A piston assembly.
20. Install the new fan mounting disc from kit.
B
1 CAUTION
Use care when placing the pry bar onto the fan
mounting disc. Make sure it is secure and flat on
C the surface. Failure to do so make cause the pry
2
bar to slip, which could result in damage to studs
or the fan mounting disc.
21. Using a suitable wrench, a T55 Torx bit, and a
pry bar, tighten the jack bolt (left-hand thread)
100 lbf·ft (136 N·m). Turn the wrench clockwise
and push the pry bar counterclockwise.
05/29/2002 f200579
A. Seal is seated evenly against side and bottom of 22. Using shop air, actuate the fan clutch and check
groove. for correct engagement and disengagement of
B. Apply grease only between these areas. the fan mounting disc. If there is a problem, it
C. "V" of Seal Facing Down must be corrected before installing the fan clutch
1. Air Chamber Seal onto the engine.
2. Sheave
23. Check for air leaks at the bleed hole and around
Fig. 14, Correct Installation of Air Chamber Seal the spring housing/piston assembly.
(cross-section view)
24. Install the fan clutch assembly onto the engine.
See Subject 100 for instructions.
WARNING
The new spring housing/piston assembly from
the kit has a cage nut installed on it. Do not re-
move the cage nut. This will cause the spring
housing to be forcibly ejected from the piston
assembly, which could result in serious injury.
14. Carefully set the new spring housing/piston as-
sembly into position. See Fig. 6 . Note that the
new assembly has a cage nut installed on it.
15. Rotate the new spring housing/piston assembly
to align the mounting holes with those of the
sheave.
IMPORTANT: Handle the new friction liner by
the edges to avoid contamination.
16. Set the new friction liner from the kit into place,
being careful to touch only the edges.
17. Using a T27 Torx bit, install the eight Torx-head
screws. See Fig. 4 . Tighten alternately 80 lbf·in
(900 N·cm).
18. Apply a minimum of 80 psi (552 kPa) of clean air
to the air inlet.

Disassembly
NOTE: This procedure involves a minor rebuild A
1
of the Horton DriveMaster® fan clutch, using
parts from the manufacturer’s Seal Kit. If a ma-
jor rebuild of the fan clutch is needed, see Sub- 2
ject 110.
1. Remove the fan clutch assembly from the ve-
hicle. For instructions, see Subject 100.
2. Put the fan clutch assembly in a vise.
3. Connect a shop air hose to the fan clutch air in- 3
let.
4. Apply 80 to 120 psi (552 to 827 kPa) to the fan
clutch to lift the fan mounting disc off the spring 05/30/2002 f200583
housing/piston assembly.
A. Place the pry bar here.
1. Pry Bar (push clockwise)
CAUTION 2. Torx Bit and Wrench (turn counterclockwise)
3. Shop Air Hose (connected to the inlet port)
mounting disc. Make sure it is secure and flat on Fig. 1, Loosening the Jack Bolt
the surface. Failure to do so make cause the pry
5. Using a pry bar, wrench, and a T55 Torx® bit,
loosen the jack bolt (left-hand thread) by turning 1
it counterclockwise. See Fig. 1.
6. Unscrew the fan mounting disc from the jack
bolt. See Fig. 2.
2
7. Inspect the fan mounting disc for wear or dam-
age.
WARNING
Do not disassemble the spring housing from the
piston. The interior springs are very strong, and
if released could eject the housing with consider- 08/07/2002 f200586
able force, possibly resulting in serious injury. 1. Fan Mounting Disc
Always use the cage nut to hold the spring hous- 2. Jack Bolt (left-hand thread)
ing and the piston together.
Fig. 2, Fan Mounting Disc Removal and Installation
8. Using a wrench and T55 Torx bit to hold the jack
bolt, install the cage nut from the kit onto the Torx-head screws holding the friction lining in
jack bolt (left-hand thread). Hand tighten it onto place are removed.
the spring housing. 9. Release the air pressure from the fan clutch.
The cage nut will keep the spring housing and
piston together as an assembly. It will also main-
tain pressure on the internal springs after the

WARNING 2
Release the air pressure from the fan clutch be-

fore removing the friction lining Torx-head
screws. Failure to release the air pressure could
result in the spring housing/piston assembly be-
ing ejected with force, which could result in per-
sonal injury. 1
10. Using a T27 Torx bit, remove the eight Torx-head

screws holding the friction lining in place.
11. Remove the friction lining. See Fig. 3.
05/28/2002 f200572
4
1. Air Chamber
2. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly (with cage nut
installed)
3
Fig. 4, Spring Housing/Piston Assembly Removal and
2 Installation
1 17. Remove the O-ring seal from the air chamber
cap. See Fig. 5 .
18. Remove the face seal. See Fig. 5 .
19. Inspect the face seal for signs of wear. Wear in-
dicates that dirt may exist in the air system.
20. Remove the air cartridge.
06/05/2002 f200571 20.1 Remove the retaining ring. See Fig. 6.
1. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly 20.2 Remove the air cartridge assembly. See
2. Cage Nut
Fig. 7 .
3. Friction Lining
4. Torx-Head Screws
Fig. 3, Friction Lining Removal and Installation

Assembly
12. Keeping the cage nut installed and tightened, 1. Clean the mounting bracket bore if necessary.
remove the spring housing/piston assembly. See 2. Apply O-ring lubricant from the kit to the outside
Fig. 4 . O-rings of the new air cartridge assembly. See
13. Remove the air chamber seal. See Fig. 5 . Fig. 8 .
14. Examine the inside of the air chamber for signs 3. Install the new air cartridge assembly into the
of moisture and/or contaminants. mounting bracket.
15. Remove the air chamber cap retaining ring. See 4. Install the retaining ring, making sure the convex
Fig. 5 . surface of the ring is toward the air cartridge.
See Fig. 8 .
16. Using two small screwdrivers placed 180 de-
grees apart, gently and evenly pry the air cham-
ber cap out of the sheave.

07/13/94 f200029a
Fig. 6, Retaining Ring Removal and Installation

(sheave not shown)
06/05/2002 f200573
1. Air Chamber Seal 4. Air Chamber Cap
2. Retaining Ring 5. Face Seal
3. O-Ring Seal
Fig. 5, Air Chamber Seal Removal and Installation

5. Using a clean, dry cloth, clean both the float seal
tip of the air cartridge and the face seal of the air
chamber cap. 2
6. Assemble the air chamber cap and face seal.
See Fig. 5 .
Tighten the face seal 75 to 100 lbf·in (850 to
1130 N·cm).
7. Lubricate the O-ring seal with the fresh lubricant
1
from the kit.
8. Install the O-ring seal on the air chamber cap. 05/29/2002 f200578
See Fig. 5 . 1. Float Seal Tip
9. Carefully set the air chamber cap into the 2. Air Cartridge
sheave. See Fig. 5 . Fig. 7, Removing the Air Cartridge (sheave not shown)
10. Install the retaining ring. See Fig. 5 . and bottom of the groove surfaces, and the "V"
11. Install the air chamber seal into the sheave. Be of the seal is facing down. See Fig. 9 .
sure the seal is evenly seated against the side 12. Lubricate contact surfaces with the fresh lubri-
cant from the kit.

13. Carefully set the new spring housing/piston as-

1 1 sembly into position. See Fig. 4 . Note that the
new assembly has a cage nut installed on it.
2
14. Rotate the new spring housing/piston assembly
to align the mounting holes with those of the
sheave.
3
3 A 15. Set the friction liner from the kit into place, being
careful to touch only the edges.
03/27/2000 f200515
16. Using a T27 Torx bit, install the eight Torx-head
A. Convex surface of the retaining ring goes toward
the air cartridge. screws. See Fig. 3 . Tighten alternately 80 lbf·in
(900 N·cm).
1. Retaining Ring
2. O-Rings 17. Apply a minimum of 80 psi (552 kPa) of clean air
3. Air Cartridge to the air inlet.
Fig. 8, Installing the Air Cartridge Retaining Ring 18. Remove the cage nut from the spring housing/
piston assembly.
A
CAUTION
B
1 mounting disc. Make sure it is secure and flat on
the surface. Failure to do so make cause the pry
C 2 19. Using a suitable wrench, a T55 Torx bit, and a
pry bar, tighten the jack bolt (left-hand thread)
100 lbf·ft (136 N·m). Turn the wrench clockwise
and the pry bar counterclockwise.
20. Using shop air, actuate the fan clutch and check
for correct engagement and disengagement of
05/29/2002 f200579 the fan mounting disc. If there is a problem, it
A. Seal is seated evenly against side and bottom of must be corrected before installing the fan clutch
groove. onto the engine.
B. Apply grease only between these areas.
C. "V" of Seal Facing Down
21. Check for air leaks at the bleed hole and around
the spring housing/piston assembly.
1. Air Chamber Seal
2. Sheave 22. Install the fan clutch assembly onto the engine.
See Subject 100 for instructions.
Fig. 9, Correct Installation of Air Chamber Seal (cross-
section view)
WARNING
The new spring housing/piston assembly from
the kit has a cage nut installed on it. Do not re-
move the cage nut. This will cause the spring
housing to be forcibly ejected from the piston
assembly, which could result in serious injury.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Air Is Leaking from the Fan
Clutch
The face seal or air cartridge is damaged Install a new seal kit.
or worn.
The O-ring seals are damaged or worn. Install a new seal kit.

Problem—The Fan Clutch Fails to
Engage
There’s no power to the fan clutch control Check all electrical connections, and repair or replace wiring as needed.
circuit. Check the circuit breaker for the engine fan and repair or replace as needed.
The engine temperature switch is Make sure the switch is normally open, not normally closed. Replace the
installed.

Problem—The Fan Clutch Does Not
Disengage
The engine temperature switch is Make sure the switch is normally open, not normally closed. Replace the
installed.
A restricted air line doesn’t allow air supply Make sure the air lines are not pinched or plugged. Repair the air lines as
to the clutch. needed.
The piston is seized due to contamination Clean the air supply. Do a major rebuild.
or dry seals.

Problem—The Fan Clutch Cycles
Frequently
The fan clutch control circuit has a loose Check all wiring connections, and repair the circuit as needed. Check the
connection or is poorly grounded. circuit breaker for the engine fan and repair or replace as needed.

Troubleshooting
Problem—The Fan Clutch Cycles

Frequently
The temperature control settings are Check the fan clutch control setting of the temperature switch, according to
incorrect. the engine installed in the vehicle. Repair or replace the temperature switch
as needed.
dryer is set too low. a switch with a higher setting. Check the ACPU switch and unit.
The engine temperature is too high. Check the programmable engine control parameters, and reprogram as
needed.

Problem—The Fan Clutch Engages, But
the Engine Still Overheats
There is a problem somewhere else in the Refer to the cooling system troubleshooting section, Section 20.00.
cooling system.

Specifications
Horton DriveMaster® Repair Kits

Kit Description * Part When Used
Number
Super Kit HOR994347 Fan Clutch Major Rebuild
Seal Kit HOR994346 Replacing Seals and Air Cartridge
Friction Disc Kit HOR994348 Replacing Fan Mounting Disc and Friction Lining
Friction Liner Kit HOR994349 Replacing Friction Lining Only
* All kits are available from the PDCs.
Table 1, Horton DriveMaster Repair Kits
Torque
Description lbf·in (N·cm) lbf·ft
(N·m)
Friction Lining 80 (900) —
Screws
Face Seal 75 to 100 (850 to —
1130)
Bearing Nut — 130 (176)
Jack Bolt — 100 (136)

Specifications
3
1 2
5
4
6
10
9
D
+12V
C 11
A C 12
C
7
+12V
8 14
B 13
08/11/2005 f544122
A. To Indicators and Gauges C. Normally Closed
B. To Electronic Injectors and Other Actuators D. Normally Open
1. Fan Override Switch 6. Foot Throttle 9. Solenoid Valve
2. Air Temperature Sensor 7. Engine ECM 10. Air Supply from Reservoir
3. Engine Speed Sensor 8. Fan Relay (not present in all 11. Fan Clutch
4. A/C Pressure Switch systems) 12. Air Supply to Fan Clutch
Fig. 1, Fan Clutch Schematic (engine ECM controlled)

Radiator Assembly, FLD Classic and XL Models 20.11
General Information
General Description ferred to the air; coolant is then pumped back

through the engine to absorb more heat.
The main function of a cooling system is to keep the The radiator uses glass-filled nylon end tanks. The
engine at its optimum operating temperature. This edges of the radiator core header are compressed to
results in the most efficient use of fuel and allows the hold the tanks to the header sealing surface using a
engine oil to provide a good lubricating film. "dimple wave lock crimp". See Fig. 2. The tanks and
High-flow radiators are used in FLD Classic and XL core are held in steel channels along the top and
models. See Fig. 1. In these radiators, coolant flows bottom of the radiator, and bolts running down from
from the inlet at the top of the left end-tank, across the bottom channel mount to an underslung cross-
the core to the right end-tank, and out of the radiator member. Rubber isolators protect the radiator from
at the bottom of the right end-tank. chassis and road vibration. The radiator is also se-
cured by brace rods that run between the top of the
radiator and the firewall. The fins of the radiator core
are reinforced along their forward edge to resist dam-
age from road debris and pressure washing.
2
A
B
05/12/93 f500096
A. Inlet from Engine
B. Outlet to Engine
1. Nylon End Tank 3. Header Sealing
2. Radiator Core Surface/Tank Flange
1
Fig. 1, High-Flow Radiator, Cross-Flow
05/12/93 f500223
gine thermostat opens and allows the water pump to
draw coolant from the radiator. The water pump cir- 1. Dimple Wave Lock Crimp
culates the coolant through water jackets in the en- Fig. 2, Dimple Wave Lock Crimp
gine block and cylinder walls, combustion chambers,
and valve assemblies. The heated coolant then flows Because crimping holds the nylon end tanks in place,
through the tubes of the radiator core, which dissi- the radiators can be disassembled and assembled.
pates the heat to the air drawn in by the engine fan.
By the time coolant travels through the radiator core The surge tank provides reserve coolant capacity,
to the outlet tube, much of the heat has been trans- expansion space for heated coolant, and deaeration
space. The radiator cap keeps a pressure of 9 psi
(62 kPa) in the system, which raises the boiling point

20.11 Radiator Assembly, FLD Classic and XL Models
General Information
of the coolant. If the cooling system overheats, ex-

cess coolant is expelled through the radiator overflow
tube.

Radiator Removal and Installation
5. Place a clean 14-gallon (53-liter) container near

NOTICE the radiator drain.
If the radiator is being replaced due to a failure of 6. Connect a 1/2-inch hose to the drain fitting on
the transmission cooler, cleaning contamination the radiator (see Fig. 1) and place the other end
from the transmission is necessary. Failure to do in the container.
so can lead to a transmission failure. 7. Drain the radiator into the container.
Allison automatic transmissions: It is required to
test the transmission fluid for contamination. The
presence of water and/or any trace of ethylene
glycol coolant mixtures in the transmission oil in 3 4
an Allison transmission is detrimental to the in- 5
ternal components. Refer to the Allison service
literature for more information and proper proce-
dures, or contact an authorized Allison service 2
facility. 6
Standard transmissions: The presence of water
and/or ethylene glycol coolant mixtures in the
lubricant in standard transmissions decreases
the effectiveness of the lubricant and causes rust
and wear to internal parts. If contamination is de- 7
tected, refer to the transmission manufacturer’s
service literature for proper procedures.
1 8
Radiator, EPA07, Removal and

1. Radiator Bottom Tank
2. Surge Tank Vent Hose
Radiator Removal 3. Surge Tank Hose
4. Transmission Oil Cooler Hose
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down 5. Transmission Oil Cooler Hose
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the 6. Lower Fan Shroud
tires. 7. Lower Radiator Hose
2. Open the hood. 8. 1/2-Inch Radiator Drain Fitting
3. Remove the front bumper. Fig. 1, Bottom of Installed Radiator
WARNING NOTE: If the oil drained from the transmission in

the next step is relatively fresh and kept clean, it
During operation and for some time afterward, can be reused. If you wish to reuse the oil, be
the contents of the cooling system are hot and sure the drain container is clean, and be sure
highly pressurized. Opening the system when it the drain ports on the transmission are clean
is pressurized can allow scalding hot, pressur- before disconnecting the lines.
ized coolant to erupt from the cooling system
with considerable force, and can cause severe 8. Place a container of at least 2-gallon (7.5-liter)
personal injury. capacity under the transmission, and drain the
Be very careful when venting or opening the transmission oil into it. It will probably be easier
cooling system, and use appropriate protective to do this by disconnecting the oil cooler lines
gear. below the drain plug.
4. Remove the surge tank cap.

NOTICE 8 9
10
Do not attempt to turn the QLD fittings; you may
destroy the fitting and severely damage the radia-
tor.
IMPORTANT: The transmission oil cooler lines 7
in some early EPA07 vehicles attach to the ra-
diator with quick-disconnect (QLD) fittings. Re- 6
moval and installation of these fittings must be
done correctly, to prevent damage to the fittings
and the radiator.
9. Where QLD fittings are fitted, the female ports 5 11
are brazed into the radiator. They are not
threaded.
4
3
See the heading, "Gates Quick-Disconnect QLD
Fittings" below, for work procedures on QLD fit-
tings. 2
10. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from 1

the radiator, and let them drain into another con-
tainer; see Fig. 1.
NOTE: The small amount of transmission oil
drained at the radiator-end of the lines, after the
transmission has been drained, may be con- 06/28/2006 f012137
taminated with coolant as the radiator is NOTE: Typical installation, others are similar.
drained. That oil should not be reused. 1. Radiator Module 7. Hood Support
Support 8. Surge Tank Vent
11. Remove the lower elbow from the radiator end 2. Lower Fan Shroud Hose
tank. 3. Surge Tank Hose 9. Surge Tank
12. Put a ratchet strap in position on the passenger P-Clamp 10. Upper Radiator
side of the vehicle, to support the hood when the 4. Recirculation Baffle Support
hood supports are disconnected. 5. Upper Fan Shroud 11. CAC Hose
6. Charge Air Cooler
Attach one end of the ratchet strap to the under- (CAC)
side of the hood, or the hole in the hood above
the hood latch. Attach the other end to the rear Fig. 2, Left Side of Radiator
hood support, on top of the inner splash shield.
17. Disconnect the shunt line and radiator vent line,
13. Remove the upper radiator struts. but leave the P-clamp in place on the back of the
14. Disconnect the hood straps from the radiator. radiator module support; see Fig. 2.
With help from another person, adjust the length 18. Disconnect the electrical sensors on the radiator.
of the ratchet strap so that the hood position will
allow the radiator to be hoisted up, and clear of 19. Remove the surge tank.
the vehicle. 20. Place alignment marks on the upper and lower
15. Disconnect the charge air cooler (CAC) hoses fan shrouds, and mark the shroud-to-channel
from the CAC; see Fig. 2 and Fig. 3. positions, so the shrouds can be installed in the
same position on the radiator and other compo-
16. Remove the lower elbow from the radiator end nents.
tank.
21. Remove the four fasteners that connect the
upper and lower fan shrouds.

7 8 9 26. Remove the four hexnuts that hold the A/C con-
6 10
denser to the radiator, and place the condenser
on top of the passenger-side tire.
11
27. Remove the lower side recirculation baffle from
the radiator. Use a screwdriver to pry the baffle
off; it is held by push-on, reusable plastic rivets.
28. Attach an engine hoist to the radiator using the
12 flanges and fasteners, where the upper radiator
5 struts attached.
29. Remove the six hexscrews that hold the radiator
13 to the module support.
30. Lift the radiator about 6 inches (15 cm). Remove
4 the bottom recirculation baffle from the radiator.
31. Lift the radiator clear of the vehicle.
14 32. Remove the lower fan shroud from the radiator.
3 33. Set the radiator on a workbench, with the CAC
up.
34. Remove the bolts that hold the CAC to the radia-
tor, then remove the CAC and set it aside.
2 35. Use a paint pen to mark the position of the chan-

nels on the radiator.
1 36. Remove the fasteners that hold the channels to
07/05/2006 f012138 the radiator, and remove the channels.
NOTE: Typical installation, others are similar.
1. Radiator Module 9. Radiator Support Gates Quick-Disconnect QLD
Support
2. Lower Fan Shroud
Fastener
10. Recirculation Baffle
Fittings
3. CAC Hose Clamps 11. Hood Support As part of the changes made for EPA07 engines, the
4. Charge Air Cooler 12. Air Conditioner (A/C) transmission oil cooler was moved into the radiator,
(CAC) Refrigerant Tubes and some early EPA07 vehicles used transmission
5. CAC Hose 13. Reusable Plastic
oil cooler lines equipped with Gates Quick-
6. Upper Radiator Recirculation Baffle
Support Rivets Disconnect (QLD) connectors.
7. Upper Radiator Hose 14. A/C Condenser In July 2007, the Gates QLD connectors were super-
8. Upper Radiator Tank seded by JIC fittings. Only JIC-equipped radiators
are available as replacements.
Fig. 3, Right Side of Radiator
The Kent-Moore QLD tool (see Fig. 4) is the proper
22. Remove the fasteners that hold the fan shrouds tool to use when disconnecting QLD connectors. One
to the radiator. set of tools was sent to each dealer in December
23. Remove the upper fan shroud. 2006. The tool is available from Kent-Moore in two
sizes; J-48548-1 (the larger one) is used on Allison
24. Remove the six hexscrews that hold the fan to automatic transmissions, tool J-48548-2 is used for
the fan clutch, and remove the fan. all other transmissions.
25. Disconnect the fasteners that hold the air-
conditioner (A/C) system soft lines, to allow
enough soft line flexibility so that the A/C con-
denser can be placed on the passenger-side tire.

B
A
02/05/2007 f580432
Fig. 4, Kent-Moore Tool J-48548

02/06/2007 f261389
Quick-Disconnect Connectors, A. Dust Boot Compressed
Removal and Installation B. Tool Fitted Around Metal Flange, Not Rubber Dust
Boot
Removal C. Tool Levered Straight Toward Fitting
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the Fig. 6, QLD Fitting Removal with Tool J-48548
parking brake, shut down the engine, and chock
the tires. out, to distribute the lubricant so it eases disas-
2. Thoroughly clean the area around the fitting. sembly, then use the tool to disconnect the fit-
ting.
3. Put the tool on the fitting as shown in Fig. 5.
5. While holding the male fitting compressed
4. Push the installed connector straight into the port into the female port, squeeze the flat face of
until it stops with the rubber dust boot com- the tool handle toward the male fitting, to release
pressed; see Fig. 6. the snap connection; see Fig. 5. Use the tool so
that pressure is equal on both ears where they
push against the lower male fitting. Do not twist
B the tool sideways, or apply unequal pressure to
C either ear of the tool where it forks around the
fitting. The rubber dust boot should compress,
releasing the fitting so that it can separate.
6. Pull the male fitting from the radiator port. Pro-
tect the openings of the connectors when they
are disconnected, to keep dirt out.
A
Installation
1. Apply WD-40 to the fitting, to aid assembly. Push
the male connector into the port as far as pos-
02/06/2007 f261390 sible, until the snap ring clicks into engagement.
A. Dust Boot Not Compressed
B. Tool Head Inserted Perpendicular To Fitting 2. Test the connection by pulling the male connec-
C. Push Male Connector Straight In, To Release tor straight out, with a 10-lb (4.5-kg) force. It
should hold solidly in place.
Fig. 5, QLD Fitting with Tool J-48548 in Place
NOTE: WD-40, or a similar substance, can be

helpful if the quick-disconnect fitting is difficult to
release. Clean the fitting, then spray it with the
lubricant. Push and pull the fitting straight in and

Adapting QLD-Equipped Radiator Installation

Transmission Oil Cooler Lines to 1. Install the channels onto the core. Leave the
a JIC-Equipped Radiator channel fasteners loose, so their position can be
adjusted in final installation.
To enable using existing QLD-fitted transmission oil 2. Install the CAC onto the radiator channels, and
cooler lines with replacement JIC radiators, an tighten the fasteners that hold the channels and
adapter fitting p/n GT 7213 0003 (see Fig. 7) is CAC to the radiator.
available. It screws into the replacement radiator and
allows the existing QLD-equipped lines to connect to 3. Lift the radiator with the engine hoist, and install
the JIC connectors in the radiator. the lower fan shroud on the radiator. Align the
1
2
A B
10/10/2007 f500392
A. QLD-to-JIC Adapter B. Adapter Installed in Lower Radiator
1. Lower Radiator 3. QLD-to-JIC Adapter Installed
2. JIC Female Fitting on Transmission Oil Cooler
Fig. 7, QLD-to-JIC Adapter, p/n GT 7213 0003
The adapter fittings are installed only at the radiator; lower fan shroud with the alignment marks made
the original QLD connections continue to be used at earlier.
the transmission.
4. Move the radiator into position about six inches
Thread the adapters into the transmission oil cooler; above the module support.
tighten them 53 lbf·ft (70 N·m). 5. Install the bottom radiator recirculation baffle.
Insert the transmission oil cooler line QLD connec- 6. Apply Loctite 242 to the threads of the fasteners,
tors into the fitting adapters, as stated above. then attach the fan. Tighten the fasteners 30 lbf·ft
Test the connection by pushing the QLD fitting (40 N·m).
straight into the adapter, then pulling straight out with
10-lb (4.5-kg) force.

7. Align the marks to position the upper fan shroud

on the radiator, then install the fasteners that
Pre-EPA2007 Radiator
hold it to the radiator and the lower fan shroud. Removal and Installation
NOTE: Fan tip to fan shroud clearance should
IMPORTANT: This procedure covers radiator
be 9/32 inch (7 mm). This is closer than on pre-
removal and installation for FLD Classic and XL
EPA07 models, and clearance must be carefully
models manufactured from November 2002 to
checked.
December 2006.
8. Install the side recirculation baffles.
9. Install the upper fan shroud. Removal
10. Install the radiator. See Fig. 8 for the 1400-square-inch radiator installa-
tion. The 1200-square-inch radiator installation is
11. Install the A/C condenser, and attach the
similar.
P-clamps that hold the A/C soft lines.
12. Install the surge tank.
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
13. Connect the radiator strut rods. tires.
14. Connect the hood support straps, and remove 2. Open the hood and have an assistant support it
the temporary support straps. in a position that relieves tension from the tilt as-
15. Connect the lower radiator elbow and transmis- sist spring cables and the support straps.
sion cooler lines. If the fittings are quick- 3. Disconnect the hood tilt assist spring cables and
disconnect, do the following: support straps.
15.1 If the fitting is new, remove the plastic end 4. Move the hood out of the way and support it with
cap. a padded table or bench.
15.2 Align the male connector directly with the
female port. WARNING
15.3 Push the connector into the port as far as Drain the coolant system only when the engine/
possible, until the snap ring clicks into en- system is cool. Serious personal injury may re-
gagement. sult from contact with hot fluids.
NOTE: WD-40 or a similar substance may 5. Drain the coolant.
be used to ease assembly. 5.1 With the engine cool, loosen the surge
15.4 Test the connection by pulling the male tank cap to release any pressure in the
connector with a 10-lb (4.5-kg) force, radiator, then tighten the cap.
straight out from the female port. It should 5.2 Place a clean drain pan under the drain
be held solidly in place. located on the bottom of the right end-
16. Fill the cooling system with coolant. tank.
17. Fill the transmission with transmission oil, and Remove the drain plug, or open the drain
check the level. valve. If necessary, use a deflector to
channel coolant away from the aerody-
18. Install the bumper.
namic cover into the pan.
19. Close the hood and remove the tire chocks.
NOTE: On some engines, the radiator drain
20. Test drive the vehicle. plug is located on the coolant outlet pipe. On
21. Check for leaks and for correct transmission oil these vehicles, remove the aerodynamic
level. cover to access the drain plug. See Fig. 9
for an example.

3
9
5
8 10
7 11
2
2
13 12
14
6 2
3
3
1
4
2 15
3
16
17
18
19
20
19
21
01/21/2003 22 f500356
NOTE: Figure shows typical installation. Actual installation may vary depending on vehicle configuration.
1. Rear Right-Side Strut-Rod 9. Nut 17. Capscrew, 3/8–16, Grade 8;
Bracket 10. Washer Washer; Nut
2. Flanged Hexnut 11. Surge Tank 18. Spacer (used only with 11-inch
3. Flanged Capscrew 12. Spacer, Surge Tank frame rails)
4. Right-Hand Radiator Strut Rod 13. Pad, Rubber 19. Isolator
5. Rear Left-Side Strut-Rod Bracket 14. Radiator 20. Radiator Support Bracket
6. Bias Radiator Strut Rod 15 A/C Condenser 21. Washer
7. Left-Hand Radiator Strut Rod 16. Charge Air Cooler 22. Hexnut, 1/2–13, Grade 8
8. Surge-Tank Filler Cap
Fig. 8, Radiator Installation, 1400-Square-Inch Shown (1200-square-inch is similar)

5.3 Remove the surge tank cap and allow the 13. Disconnect the three strut-rods from the radiator
radiator to drain completely. and swing them out slightly to clear the radiator.
14. Remove the 1/2–13 hexnuts holding the radiator
to the lower mounting bracket on the front cross-
member.
15. With one person holding each side of the radia-
tor, tilt the top of the radiator assembly forward
until it clears the radiator strut rods. Using the
lifting device, lift the radiator assembly from the
chassis. After lowering, remove the chains from
16. If needed, remove the CAC and lower recircula-
tion shield from the radiator assembly.
Installation
1. If removed, install the CAC and lower recircula-
tion shield on the radiator assembly before in-
stalling the assembly in the vehicle.
2. Using a lifting device secured to the radiator as-
03/16/94 f500012a
sembly with chains, lift the radiator assembly to
Fig. 9, Drain Plug at Coolant Outlet Pipe (typical) position it in the chassis.
Put the radiator assembly in place, making sure
6. Loosen the coolant hose clamps from the radia-
the mounting bolts on the bottom of the radiator
tor and surge tank. Disconnect the hoses; seal
line up with the holes in the crossmember.
them to prevent entry of dirt.
3. Install the 1/2–13 hexnuts on the radiator mount-
7. On radiators with attached surge tanks, discon-
ing bracket at the bottom of the radiator. Tighten
nect the wire to the low-coolant probe in the
the nuts 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
surge tank.
4. Remove the lifting chains from the radiator.
IMPORTANT: Do not disconnect the refrigerant
lines from the A/C condenser. 5. Attach the strut rods to the radiator. Tighten the
strut rod fasteners 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m).
8. Remove the condenser mount bolts and any re-
frigerant hose stand-off brackets as needed. 6. Remove the seals and connect the coolant
Move the A/C condenser aside without discon- hoses to the radiator and surge tank. Position
necting the refrigerant lines. Cover the con- the hose clamps and tighten 48 to 60 lbf·in (540
denser with cardboard and secure it out of the to 680 N·cm)
way. 7. On radiators with attached surge tanks, connect
9. Remove the top and side recirculation shields. the wire to the low-coolant probe in the surge
tank.
10. Disconnect the hoses from the charge air cooler.
8. Connect the hoses to the charge air cooler.
11. Remove the mount bolts from the fan shroud and
lay the shroud back against the engine. 9. Install the fan shroud. Center it around the fan
before tightening the bolts.
12. Attach chains and a lifting device to the hood
strap attachment points on the top of the radia- 10. Install the top and side recirculation shields.
tor. 11. Carefully release the A/C condenser from its pro-
Remove any slack in the chains, so that the ra- tected position and install it onto the front of the
diator assembly is supported when the mounting CAC. Be careful not to kink the refrigerant lines.
fasteners are removed. Install any stand-off brackets that were removed.

NOTICE
Coolant must be filled to the proper level in the
cooling system. Low coolant could cause engine
overheating, which could damage the engine.
12. Fill the cooling system with coolant to between
the "min" the "max" level line on the radiator
surge tank. Do not install the filler cap. For cool-
ant specifications, see Group 20 of the Heavy-
Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual, and the en-
gine manufacturer’s maintenance and operation
manual.
13. Start the engine, and check for coolant leaks in
Run the engine for 10 minutes; then, stop the
engine. Check the coolant level in the surge
tank, and add coolant as needed.
14. Install the filler cap.
15. With the help of an assistant, raise the hood
from the support and connect the hood tilt assist
spring cables and support straps.

Surge Tank Removal and Installation
Removal 2
1 3
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for 1200-square-inch-radiator
surge tank removal and installation. See Fig. 2 4
for 1400-square-inch-radiator surge tank re-
moval and installation.
5 6
8
2 7
3 1
4
6 5
7
8
12/19/2002 f500357
1. Filler Cap 5. Spacer
11/07/2002 f200587 2. Hexnut 6. Pad, Rubber
1. Spacer 6. Support Bracket 3. Washer 7. Mounting Studs
2. Hexnut 7. Filler Cap 4. Surge Tank 8. Radiator
3. Washer 8. Surge Tank Fig. 2, Surge Tank Installation, 1400-Square-Inch
4. Retainer 9. Support Bracket Radiator
5. Stud
4. Drain coolant from the system until no coolant
Fig. 1, Surge Tank Installation, 1200-Square-Inch
Radiator
remains in the surge tank. See Group 20 of the
Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual for pro-
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down cedure.
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the 5. Disconnect the hoses from the surge tank, but
tires. be careful to avoid spilling coolant from the
2. Open the hood. hoses. Cap the hoses to prevent dirt from enter-
ing the system.
3. Place a clean drain pan under the radiator.
6. Disconnect the wiring from the low-coolant-level
sensor.
WARNING
7. Remove the nuts and washers that attach the
Drain the coolant system only when the engine/ tank to the support bracket.
system is cool. Serious personal injury may re-
sult from contact with hot fluids. 8. Remove the surge tank from the vehicle.

Surge Tank Removal and Installation
Installation
1. Position the surge tank on the mounting bracket.
2. Install the nuts and washers, and tighten the nuts
28 lbf·ft (38 N·m).
3. Connect the wiring from the low-coolant-level
sensor.
4. Remove the seals and connect the hoses to the
tank.
5. Fill the coolant system. See Group 20 of the
Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual for pro-
cedure.
6. Remove the chocks.

Disassembly
IMPORTANT: Disassembling and assembling 1
nylon top- and bottom-tank radiators requires
the special tools listed in Table 1.
Special Tools
Description Qty
Plastech II® Tanking Machine With Five 2-Inch
1
Cylinders
T-Bar 1
Hooked-End Bar 1
Wave Form Bar 1
Table 1
Order these tools from: 03/25/93 f500172a
RAD PAL 1. Spring Clip

2381 17 St.
Detroit, MI 48216 Fig. 1, Remove the Spring Clips
Before disassembling the radiator, pressure flush it

and check the surge tank, following the instructions
in Group 20 of the Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance
Manual. Clean and check the exterior of the radiator,
following the instructions in the FLD Conventional
Driver’s Manual.
1. Remove the radiator from the vehicle; for instruc-
CAUTION
Use care when handling or supporting the nylon
top and bottom tanks. Failure to do so could
damage the tanks.
2. Remove the side channels from the radiator as-
sembly.
2.1 Remove the eight spring clips that hold
the side channel mounting pins in position.
See Fig. 1. Insert a screwdriver blade in
the open end of each clip, and pry the clip
open until it clears the edge of the mount-
ing pin. Then, slip the clip off the pin. 03/25/93 f500173a
2.2 Use a rubber mallet and a punch to tap Fig. 2, Remove the Mounting Pins
out the eight mounting pins. See Fig. 2.
3.1 Securely plug all tank ports.
2.3 Slip the side channels off the radiator core
and tank assembly. See Fig. 3.

clamp the assembly securely in place.

See Fig. 4.
1
vent tube ports.
CAUTION
Apply only enough pressure to compress the
sealing gasket. Too much pressure will crack the
nylon tank.
ing flange.
2
03/25/93 f500174a CAUTION
1. Side Channel In some places, especially around the tank ports,
2. Radiator Core the wave lock crimps may have to be unlocked
with a screwdriver. When using a screwdriver,
Fig. 3, Remove Side Channels use care not to crack or gouge the nylon tank.
CAUTION the disassembly/assembly fixture. See
Don’t apply a higher amount of pressure than Fig. 5.
specified below; too much pressure will damage 4.5 Slide the hooked-end bar over the T-bar.
the radiator core. Place the hook over the top of the wave
3.2 At one tank port, install a pressure regula- crimp and pull the T-bar back to unlock
tor and gauge. Using a hand pump, apply the crimp. See Fig. 5.
20 psi (138 kPa) air pressure through the 4.6 Slide the hooked-end bar and the T-bar
port. down the T-bar groove to the next wave
3.3 Submerge the radiator in a tank of water crimp, and repeat the previous step until
and check it for leaks. Mark any leaks for all the wave crimps are unlocked.
repair. If a leak is between the radiator 5. Once the wave crimps are unlocked, remove the
core header and a tank, remove the tank tank.
and inspect the tank flange, the header
sealing surface, and the sealing gasket. If 5.1 Release the pressure from the tank, and
the leak is in the core, but within 3 inches move the clamping cylinders off the radia-
(7.5 cm) of the tank, remove the tank be- tor core and tank assembly.
fore repairing the leak. If the leak is in the
tank, replace the tank. CAUTION
4. Remove the top and bottom tanks. If needed, use a rubber mallet or the heel of your
4.1 Place the radiator core and tank assembly hand and tap the side of the tank to loosen it. Do
in the disassembly/assembly fixture, and not use a screwdriver against the tank sealing

03/25/93 f500180a
Fig. 4, Disassembly/Assembly Fixture
flange. A screwdriver blade may damage the has been pressure-flushed, and the tubes
flange and prevent a good seal after the tank is are still clogged, the radiator should be rod-
installed. ded or boiled out with acid by an experi-
5.2 Lift the tank from the forward side, the enced radiator shop. Otherwise, replace the
side opposite the tank ports. Remove the core.
nylon tank from the radiator core. See
Fig. 6. Assembly
5.3 Remove the sealing gasket from the seal-
ing surface of the radiator core header. 1. Install the nylon top and bottom tanks on the ra-
See Fig. 7. diator core.
5.4 Clean the sealing surface of the radiator 1.1 With the radiator securely clamped in the
core header. disassembly/assembly fixture, header
sealing surface up, make sure the bottom
5.5 Repair any leaks marked during leak test- of the radiator core and tank assembly is
ing. completely supported, and that the header
5.6 Repeat this procedure to remove the op- sealing surface is free of any dents, tool
posite tank. marks, or foreign particles.
IMPORTANT: Check the tubes of the radia- 1.2 Lubricate a new sealing gasket with a
tor core for scale deposits. If the radiator soap and water solution, and position the

02/17/94 f500181a
02/17/94 f500177a
Fig. 7, Remove the Gasket
Fig. 5, Unlock the Crimp
gasket on the header sealing surface. See
Fig. 7. To make sure the gasket is not
twisted, run your finger along the gasket
as it lies on the sealing surface. The mold
lines of the gasket should be on the out-
side and inside diameters of the gasket; if
you can feel a mold line cross over the
top of the gasket, the gasket is twisted.
1.3 Inspect the tank sealing flange. The flange
must be clean and free of defects. If the
sealing flange is damaged, replace the
tank.
vent tube ports. See Fig. 4.
03/25/93 f500179a
Fig. 6, Remove the Tank

CAUTION
Apply only enough pressure to compress the
sealing gasket. Too much pressure will crack the
nylon tank.
ing flange.
and center the bar in front of the wave
crimp slot.
CAUTION
Do not push the wave crimp until it touches the
side of the nylon tank, or the tank may crack.
er’s edge until it almost touches the tank’s
side. See Fig. 8. 03/25/93 f500178a
1.10 Slide the tools down the T-bar groove to
the next wave crimp slot, and repeat this Fig. 8, Crimp the Header Edge
procedure until all the wave crimps are 3.2 Using a rubber mallet and a punch, install
crimped. the eight mounting pins through the side
channel holes and tank bosses. See
CAUTION Fig. 9.
In some places, especially around the tank ports, 3.3 Install the eight spring clips to secure the
the wave crimps may have to be crimped with a mounting pins in position. See Fig. 10. To
screwdriver. When using a screwdriver, use care install each clip, place the clip over the
not to crack or gouge the nylon tank. end of the mounting pin, and slide the clip
until it engages the groove in the pin and
1.11 Release the pressure from the tank, and the open end of the clip snaps over the
move the clamping cylinders off the radia- edge of the pin. If necessary, use a clamp
tor core and tank assembly. to compress the side channel while install-
1.12 Repeat this procedure to install the oppo- ing the clips.
site tank. 4. Install the radiator in the vehicle. For instructions,
2. Leak test the radiator core and tank assembly. refer to Subject 100.
For instructions, refer to "Disassembly."
3. Install the radiator side channels.
3.1 Slide the side channels onto the radiator
core and tank assembly.

1 03/25/93 f500176a
1. Spring Clip
Fig. 10, Install the Spring Clips
02/17/94 f500175a
1. Pin
Fig. 9, Install the Mounting Pins

Radiator Pressure Testing
Engine Mounted Radiator,

Cooling System Pressure
Testing
NOTE: If the engine-mounted radiator strut rod
blocks access to the surge tank pressure cap,
remove the strut as follows. 1
1. Unbolt the driver’s side radiator strut rod from the
radiator and the engine. Set the strut rod on the
engine, and do not disconnect anything that
might be attached to it. See Fig. 1.
04/16/2009 f200717
1. Adaptor
Fig. 2, Adaptor Installation

3
1 2
04/16/2009 f200718
1. Strut Rod Mounting Capscrew and Nut
2. Strut Rod
3. Pressure Cap
Fig. 1, Radiator Strut Rod Installation 04/16/2009 f200719
2. Remove the pressure cap and attach the appro- 1. Hand Pump
priate adaptor tool (J-42401-3 or J-42401-1A) to
the surge tank. See Fig. 2. Fig. 3, Hand Pump Installation
NOTE: These are Kent-Moore/SPX part num- 5. Remove the pump and adaptor tool, and install
bers. Other companies sell these adaptors, the radiator cap.
Snap-On, Mac, Cornwell, etc. These are the 6. Install the strut rod, tighten 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m).
same adaptors that are used on cars.
3. Attach a radiator-pressure hand pump, and apply Out of Vehicle Radiator
no more than 20 psi (138 kPa) of pressure to the
cooling system. See Fig. 3. Pressure Testing
4. Check for leaks. Repair as needed. 1. Remove the radiator from the vehicle. For in-

Radiator Pressure Testing
2. Pressure-test the radiator.

2.1 Plug the inlet, outlet, and all other ports on
NOTICE
Don’t apply a higher amount of air pressure than
specified below; too much pressure will damage
the radiator core.
2.2 Remove the radiator cap, and install a
pressure regulator and gauge. Using a
hand pump, apply 20 psi (138 kPa) air
pressure through the filler neck.
and check it for leaks. Remove the radia-
tor from the water.
2.4 Remove the plugs and the testing gauge,
and install the radiator cap. Repair the
radiator, if necessary.

Eaton Fuller Pull-Type Clutches 25.00
General Information
General Description Heavy-duty Solo clutch discs are offered in one stan-
dard configuration (see Fig. 3) and one optional con-
figuration (see Fig. 4):
Eaton® Fuller® Solo™ and Easy-Pedal™ 2000
clutches are pull-type clutches of a dry-disc design. • Seven spring dampers with four ceramic fac-
They are both available in 15.5-inch (394-mm) two- ings are standard.
plate assemblies used in heavy-duty applications. • Six spring dampers with six ceramic facings
The intermediate plate separating the driven discs is and vibration control technology (VCT™plus)
carried on four lugs within the cover assembly, which are optional.
is mounted on a flat flywheel. Four positive separator
NOTE: An earlier version of vibration control
pins™ (roll pins) ensure an equal gap on all sides of
the intermediate plate and increase the life of the technology (VCT™) had a disc with six spring
clutch. Four return straps are attached to the cover dampers and six ceramic facings. This disc has
assembly to retract the pressure plate when the now been replaced by VCT™plus.
clutch is disengaged. Modern high-torque engines require higher perfor-
mance from a clutch. The extended-lube (XL-100)
Solo 15.5-Inch Clutch clutches have a special roller yoke and a ribbed re-
lease bearing housing that reduces bearing wear and
Eaton Fuller Solo clutches are totally adjustment-
extends the service interval for lubrication. XL-100
free. See Fig. 1. As the clutch wears, its innovative
clutches are not available for Severe Service applica-
wear-adjusting technology monitors clutch compo-
tions.
nents and makes any necessary adjustments. The
wear-adjusting technology comes from two sliding On older vehicles, clutch discs with eight, nine, or ten
cams, which rotate to maintain the proper adjust- spring dampers may be installed. These older types
ment. Atop the upper cam, a wear indicating tab mir- of vibration dampers are not adequate for modern
rors the cam’s movement, letting you know when it’s high-horsepower engines that operate at lower peak
time to replace the clutch. See Fig. 2. This tab can- torques.
not be used as a mechanism for adjusting the clutch.
1 2 3 4
04/16/2003 f250604
1. Clutch Cover 3. Intermediate Plate

2. Rear Driven Disc 4. Front Driven Disc
Fig. 1, Solo Heavy-Duty Clutch

25.00 Eaton Fuller Pull-Type Clutches
General Information
1 1
2
3
1
4
06/04/97 f250429
NOTE: "NEW" position on the left, "REPLACE" position 07/08/2003 f250618

on the right.
1. Hub 3. Facing
1. Wear Indicating Tab 2. Damper 4. Paddle
Fig. 2, Wear Indicator Fig. 4, Driven Disc With Six Ceramic Facings
Easy-Pedal 2000 15.5-Inch

1
Clutch
2
Eaton® Fuller® Easy-Pedal 2000 clutches are easily
adjustable using the Kwik-Adjust™ mechanism. See
Fig. 5.
3
Easy-Pedal heavy-duty clutch discs are available in
two optional configurations:
• Seven spring dampers with four ceramic fac-
4 ings. See Fig. 3.
• Six spring dampers with six ceramic facings
and vibration control technology (VCT™plus)
See Fig. 4.
04/16/2003 f250605
1. Hub 3. Facing
NOTE: An earlier version of vibration control
2. Damper 4. Paddle technology (VCT™) had a disc with six spring
dampers and six ceramic facings. This disc has
Fig. 3, Driven Disc With Four Ceramic Facings now been replaced by VCT™plus.
On older vehicles, clutch discs with eight, nine, or ten
CAUTION spring dampers may be installed. These older types
of vibration dampers are not adequate for modern
If your vehicle was originally equipped with six- high-horsepower engines that operate at lower peak
or seven-spring discs, do not substitute eight- or torques.
ten-spring discs. This could cause excessive tor-
sional vibration and component damage. CAUTION
For clutch capacities, see the appropriate Solo clutch
table in Specifications, 400. If your vehicle was originally equipped with six-
or seven-spring discs, do not substitute eight- or
ten-spring discs. This could cause excessive tor-
sional vibration and component damage.
Clutch capacity is indicated by the color code of the
pressure springs in the cover assembly. See the ap-

General Information
1 2 3 4
5
05/29/2003 f250606
1. Clutch Cover 3. Intermediate Plate 5. Kwik-Adjust Mechanism

2. Rear Driven Disc 4. Front Driven Disc
Fig. 5, Easy-Pedal Heavy-Duty Clutch
propriate table for Easy-Pedal clutches in Specifica- gers to move into contact with the wear pads of the
tions, 400. release bearing (release yoke free-travel). See
Fig. 6. The release yoke pulls the release bearing
Principles of Operation away from the pressure plate inside the clutch cover.
This compresses the pressure springs, allowing the
driven discs to slip freely, and at a different speed
The primary purpose of the clutch is to transfer the
from the drive discs.
power of the engine from the engine flywheel to the
transmission. At the point where clutch engagement
begins (clutch pedal partially released), the transmis-
sion input shaft may be stationary, as when the ve-
hicle is not moving, or it may be rotating at a differ-
ent speed than the flywheel, as in the case of
upshifting or downshifting. Once the clutch is fully
engaged (clutch pedal fully released), both the en-
gine flywheel and the transmission input shaft will be
rotating at the same speed. A
The secondary purpose of the clutch is to damp un-
wanted vibrations that normally exist in the driveline
system. The springs within each driven disc provide B
a flexible link between the friction surfaces and the
disc hubs. Damped clutch discs are specifically de- C
signed to prolong the life of drivetrain components by 05/22/2003 f250617
reducing vibrations from the engine, non-uniform A. Clutch Free-Pedal
U-joint angles, and road dips and bumps. B. Clutch Release-Pedal
When the clutch pedal is first pressed down, the first C. Clutch Brake Squeeze
1/2-inch to 1-inch (12.7 to 25.4 mm) of pedal move-
ment (clutch free-pedal) causes the release yoke fin- Fig. 6, Clutch Pedal Movement

General Information
Further downward movement of the clutch pedal

(clutch release-pedal), causes the release bearing to
move into contact with the clutch brake (release
bearing travel). The pressure springs force the pres-
sure plate toward the engine flywheel, applying fric-
tion to the driven discs. Slippage occurs between the
drive and driven discs because of the difference in
their speeds.
In the last 1 inch to 1-1/4 inches (25 to 33 mm) of
downward pedal movement, the clutch brake and the
release bearing are pressed together (clutch brake
squeeze). The friction between the discs increases,
and the slippage and difference in speeds de-
creases. When the pedal is fully released, pressure
and friction are sufficient to stop the discs from slip-
ping. With no slippage, the driving and driven mem-
bers turn at the same speed.
When the vehicle is stationary, the clutch brake per-
mits shifting into first gear or reverse gear without
severe gear clash. The clutch brake is between the
release bearing housing and the transmission bear-
ing cap, and is engaged by tangs to the transmission
input shaft. When the pedal is fully depressed, the
clutch brake is squeezed between the release bear-
ing housing and the transmission bearing cap, stop-
ping the rotation of the main drive gear.
The clutch brake may be a disc-type or a torque-
limiting type. To prevent overloads to it, the torque-
limiting clutch brake is designed to slip when loads of
20 to 25 lbf·ft (27 to 34 N·m) are reached. Clutch
brakes are not designed for upshifting.

Clutch Adjustments
NOTE: The following procedures apply only to

Eaton® Fuller® Easy-Pedal® clutches. Solo™
clutches are adjustment-free.
Release yoke free-travel is the distance between the 1
release bearing wear pads and the release yoke. At
the factory, the release yoke free-travel is set to
0.105 to 0.145 inch (2.7 to 3.7 mm). This setting pro-
duces approximately two inches (51 mm) of clutch
free-pedal.
IMPORTANT: When clutch free pedal is less
than about 3/4 inch (19 mm), adjust the clutch
internally according to the procedures in this
subject. Take care to do all procedures in the
proper order. 03/01/94 f250002a
Release bearing travel is the clearance between the 1. Clutch Inspection Cover
aft end of the release bearing housing and the for-
ward surface of the clutch brake disc. For the clutch Fig. 1, Remove the Clutch Inspection Cover
to release properly, the release bearing travel mea- disc-type clutch brake with washer) tight against
surement must be between 1/2 and 9/16 inch (12.7 the transmission input-shaft bearing cap. See
to 14.3 mm). Fig. 2. Also, slide the release bearing as far as
As the clutch wears, the release bearing moves to- possible towards the transmission.
wards the engine flywheel, reducing release yoke
free-travel and increasing release bearing travel. If
internal clutch adjustments are not made, the release
yoke fingers will eventually ride against the wear
pads. This could cause the following problems:
• Worn bearing wear pads and release yoke
• Damaged release bearing and housing
• Eventual clutch slippage and burn-up
1
Release Bearing Travel

Measurement
CAUTION
Make sure the internal adjustment is correct be- 2
fore making any linkage adjustments. Incorrect
adjustments can cause transmission gear clash,
slipping, and burning of clutch components. 03/01/94 f250003a
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock all the tires. 1. Transmission Input-Shaft Bearing Cap
2. Clutch Brake
2. Remove the clutch inspection cover from the bot-
tom of the bell housing. See Fig. 1. Fig. 2, Position the Clutch Brake
3. Slide the clutch brake (either the one-piece IMPORTANT: Release bearing travel tool A02–
torque-limiting clutch brake, or the two-piece 12419 is available through the PDCs. One end

Clutch Adjustments
of the tool has green tape on it and is 0.50 inch 4.2 Insert the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end. If
(12.7 mm) in diameter; the other end has blue it fits loosely, the gap is too wide and ad-
tape on it and is 0.56 inch (14.3 mm) in diam- justment is needed. See "Adjustment."
eter. 4.3 If the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end can’t
4. Measure the release bearing travel. See Fig. 3 be inserted in the gap, then try to insert
for the correct dimension to measure. Using both the green 0.50-inch (12.7-mm) end. If the
ends of the release bearing travel tool (Fig. 4), green end of the tool fits, snug or loose,
check this gap as follows: then no adjustment is needed.
4.4 If the green end of the tool can’t be in-
serted in the gap, adjustment is needed.
See "Adjustment."
5. If no internal clutch adjustment is necessary, go
1 to "Release Yoke Free-Travel."
A Adjustment
To adjust Easy-Pedal clutches, use the Eaton Fuller
Kwik-Adjust® mechanism (see Fig. 5).
C
03/01/94 f250172a
A. Check both dimensions: release bearing travel (B)

and release yoke free-travel (C).
B. Release bearing travel: 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to
14.3 mm) between release bearing housing and
clutch brake.
C. Release yoke free-travel: approximately 0.105 to
0.145 inch (2.7 to 3.7 mm) between yoke and wear
pads.
1. Torque-Limiting Clutch Brake
Fig. 3, Clutch Dimensions

09/15/95 f250309
Fig. 5, Adjustment with Kwik-Adjust

A B
1. Turn the engine flywheel until the lockstrap is
A B aligned with the clutch inspection-cover opening.
See Fig. 1 and Fig. 5.
2. Release the clutch by depressing the pedal.
03/26/96 f580133
Block the pedal in the released position, or have
A. 0.50 inch (12.7 mm) B. 0.56 inch (14.3 mm) someone assist you by holding the pedal down
during the adjustment procedure.
Fig. 4, Release Bearing Travel Tool A02-12419
NOTE: An open-end wrench is not recom-
4.1 Position the tool so that the legs straddle mended for the following step.
the transmission input shaft.
3. Adjust the clutch, using a 5/8-inch box-end or
socket wrench on the adjustment bolt.

Clutch Adjustments
3.1 Insert the 5/8-inch box-end or socket 1. Measure the release yoke free-travel. See Fig. 3
wrench through the inspection cover open- for the correct dimension to measure. Using both
ing. ends of the free-travel tool (Fig. 6), check the
gap as follows:
3.2 To begin the adjustment, release the ad-
justment bolt by pressing down on the bolt
head.
NOTE: Normal wear increases the gap be-
tween the release bearing and the transmis-
sion.
3.3 To decrease the gap: If clearance between
the release bearing housing and the clutch
brake is more than 9/16-inch (14.3 mm),
turn the adjustment bolt clockwise (the A B
release bearing moves toward the trans-
mission).
To increase the gap: If clearance between
the release bearing housing and the clutch
brake is less than 1/2-inch (12.7 mm), turn 03/26/96 f580132
the adjustment bolt counterclockwise (the
release bearing moves toward the en- A. 0.105 inch (2.7 mm) B. 0.145 inch (3.7 mm)
gine).
Fig. 6, Release Yoke Free-Travel Tool A02-12254
3.4 When the adjustment is complete, make
sure the adjustment bolt is locked (pulled 2. Position the tool so that the legs straddle the re-
up flush with the mounting bolts). lease yoke.
NOTE: On Easy-Pedal 2000 clutches, each 3. Insert the blue 0.145-inch (3.7-mm) end. If it fits
complete turn of the adjustment bolt represents loosely, the gap is too wide and linkage adjust-
about 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) of release bearing ment is needed. See the appropriate subject in
movement. On earlier Easy-Pedal models, each Section 25.03.
complete turn of the adjustment bolt represents 4. If the blue 0.145-inch (3.7-mm) end can’t be in-
about 0.02-inch (0.5 mm) of release bearing serted in the gap, then try to insert the green
movement. 0.105-inch (2.7-mm) end. If the green end of the
tool fits, snug or loose, then no adjustment is
4. After adjusting, release the pedal and check the needed.
clearance between the release bearing housing
and the clutch brake. When the clearance is 1/2 5. If the green end of the tool can’t be inserted in
to 9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm), the adjustment is the gap, linkage adjustment is needed. See the
complete. appropriate subject in Section 25.03.
Release Yoke Free-Travel Clutch Brake Squeeze

IMPORTANT: Release yoke free-travel tool A02– NOTE: This procedure requires two persons:
12254 is available through the PDCs. The legs one under the vehicle with access to the release
on one end of the tool have green tape on them bearing, and the other in the vehicle to depress
and are 0.105 inch (2.7 mm) thick; the legs on the clutch pedal and measure the pedal travel.
the other end have blue tape on them and are The distance the pedal moves (from the fully
0.145 inch (3.7 mm) thick. depressed position) to free the feeler gauge is
the clutch brake squeeze measurement.

Clutch Adjustments
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock all the tires.

2. Remove the clutch inspection cover from the bot-
tom of the bell housing. See Fig. 1.
3. Insert a 0.010 inch (0.25 mm) feeler gauge (a
business card works well if a feeler gauge is not
available) between the release bearing and
clutch brake.
4. Depress the clutch pedal to the end of its stroke.
5. Slowly let the pedal up. Stop when the feeler
gauge can be pulled out. The pedal should be
1/2 to 1 inch (12.7 to 25.4 mm) from the end of
the stroke.
6. If necessary to obtain proper clutch brake
squeeze, check the linkage for worn or damaged
components. If necessary, adjust the clutch
brake squeeze by changing the length of the
upper pedal stop.
7. Adjust the linkage to compensate for the in-
creased or decreased stroke. See the proce-
dures in the appropriate subject in Sec-
tion 25.03, Subject 100. If necessary, check the
clutch brake squeeze again until it is correct.

Clutch Removal
Removal PLACE" position on the indicator, it is time

to replace the clutch.
Solo™ Heavy-Duty Clutch 1.3 From inside the cab, release the clutch
pedal. Check to be sure the wear indicat-
ing tab stays at the "NEW" position on the
CAUTION indicator.
For proper installation of the Solo clutch, the NOTE: Before pulling the transmission from the
wear indicating tab must be reset. Failure to reset bell housing, disconnect the external clutch link-
this tab will prevent clutch release and result in
age and rotate the release yoke so the yoke will
possible clutch damage.
clear the release bearing when it is removed.
NOTE: This procedure requires two persons:
2. Remove the transmission. See Section 26.01.
one under the vehicle with access to the wear
indicating tab, and the other in the vehicle to
press the clutch pedal. CAUTION
1. Reset the wear indicating tab with the clutch in Do not let the rear of the transmission drop, and
the vehicle. do not let the transmission hang unsupported in
the splined hubs of the clutch discs. Taking
1.1 From inside the cab, press the clutch these precautions will prevent bending and dis-
pedal all the way down. Hold the clutch tortion of the clutch discs.
pedal down until the wear indicating tab is
reset. 3. Remove the clutch brake from the transmission
input shaft. See Fig. 2.
1.2 Through the clutch inspection cover, slide
the wear indicating tab to the left until it is
at the "NEW" position on the indicator.
See Fig. 1.
E
AC
PL
NE RE
W
03/01/94 f250163a
06/04/97 f250428 Fig. 2, Clutch Brake Removal

With the clutch pedal down, set the tab to the "NEW"
4. Install a spline aligning tool into the release bear-
position on the indicator.
ing assembly, and through the driven discs. See
1. Clutch Cover
Fig. 3. An old transmission input shaft may be
2. Wear Indicating Tab
used for this purpose.
Fig. 1, Resetting the Wear Indicating Tab 5. Locate the four 7/16–14 x 1-3/4 shipping bolts
(hexhead machine screws). These shipping bolts
IMPORTANT: Take note of the position of were installed on the clutch cover prior to instal-
the wear indicating tab on the clutch cover. If lation.
the wear indicating tab is near the "RE-

Clutch Removal
7. Remove the two top mounting capscrews from

the cover assembly. Install two 7/16–14 x 5
guide studs in the open holes to help support the
clutch assembly during removal. See Fig. 5.
10/10/95 f250313
10/10/95 f250311
Fig. 5, Install the Guide Studs
Fig. 3, Installing a Spline Aligning Tool
8. Progressively loosen each of the mounting cap-
6. Install the four 7/16–14 x 1-3/4 shipping bolts screws in the pattern shown in Fig. 6. This will
into the four clutch cover holes and fasten them prevent warping or bending within the clutch, and
finger-tight. See Fig. 4. will ease removal of the clutch mounting cap-
screws.
6 2
4
7
8
E
LAC
3
REP
RE
PL
AC
E
1 5
05/29/2003 f250426a
06/02/97 f250425 Fig. 6, Loosening Sequence, Solo

1. Shipping Bolt (7/16–14 x 1-3/4)
Fig. 4, Install the Shipping Bolts

Clutch Removal
ing tab. Resetting the wear indicating tab allows

WARNING the clutch to release and prevents possible
clutch damage.
The clutch assembly is heavy. It should be re-
moved and installed only with a lifting device. If 1. Remove the four shipping bolts (if installed).
the assembly is lifted incorrectly or dropped, it 2. Support the clutch cover in an arbor press with
could cause serious personal injury. the release bearing facing down. When setting
9. Remove the mounting capscrews, and carefully up the arbor press, allow at least 1 inch (25 mm)
remove the clutch assembly together with the clearance for both movement of the release
spline aligning tool. bearing and access to install shipping bolts. See
Fig. 8.
NOTE: For installation, mark the proper position
of the discs and intermediate plate adaptor ring.
10. Reset the pressure plate wear pins. See Fig. 7.
1 2
06/23/97 f250427
NOTE: The wear pins will be reset when the pressure
plate is 0.525 inches (13.3 mm) below the mounting
surface.
1. Mounting Surface
2. Pressure Plate
Fig. 7, Reset Wear Pins
10.1 Progressively tighten the four shipping

bolts in a crisscross pattern. 06/05/97 f250430
10.2 Measure the depth of the pressure plate. Fig. 8, Arbor Press Setup
When the face of the pressure plate is
0.525 inches (13.3 mm) below the mount- 3. Center the ram and press downward on the re-
ing surface, the wear pins are reset. tainer until it comes to a stop. Lock the ram in
NOTE: Resetting the pressure plate wear pins position.
will allow the clutch to release after installation. 4. Slide the wear indicating tab to the left until it is
at the new position of the indicator ( Fig. 1) and
11. Use an appropriate puller to remove the pilot
hold it in position with a magnet.
bearing. Inspect the old pilot bearing for any un-
usual wear or damage. Discard the pilot bearing. 5. Locate the four 7/16–14 x 1-3/4 shipping bolts.
Resetting the Wear Indicating Tab 6. Install the four 7/16–14 x 1-3/4 shipping bolts
into the four clutch cover holes and fasten them
(clutch out of vehicle) finger-tight. See Fig. 4.
NOTE: You may need to temporarily install
CAUTION slightly longer bolts to allow access of the ship-
Use this procedure if the transmission and clutch ping bolts.
were removed without resetting the wear indicat- 7. Reset the pressure plate wear pins. See Fig. 7.

Clutch Removal
7.1 Progressively tighten the four shipping

bolts in a crisscross pattern.
7.2 Measure the depth of the pressure plate.
When the face of the pressure plate is
0.525 inches (13.3 mm) below the mount-
ing surface, the wear pins are reset.
NOTE: Resetting the pressure plate wear pins
will allow the clutch to release after installation.
Easy-Pedal™ Clutch
NOTE: Before pulling the transmission from the
bell housing, disconnect the external clutch link-
age and rotate the release yoke so the yoke will
clear the release bearing when it is removed.
1. Remove the transmission. See Section 26.01.
10/10/95 f250312
CAUTION
Fig. 9, Pulling the Bearing
Do not let the rear of the transmission drop, and
do not let the transmission hang unsupported in
the splined hubs of the clutch discs. Taking
these precautions will prevent bending and dis-
tortion of the clutch discs.
2. Remove the clutch brake from the transmission
input shaft. See Fig. 2.
3. Install a spline aligning tool into the release bear-
ing assembly, and through the driven discs. See
4 1
Fig. 3. An old transmission input shaft may be
used for this purpose.
4. Use a release tool and two 5/8-inch (16 mm) 2 5
spacer blocks to pull the bearing back. See
Fig. 9. The spacer blocks relieve the internal
spring load in the clutch assembly, and facilitate
clutch removal.
5. Remove the two top mounting bolts from the 6 3
cover assembly. Install 7/16–14 x 5 guide studs
in the open holes to help support the clutch as- 10/10/95 f250314
sembly during removal. See Fig. 5.
Fig. 10, Loosening Sequence, Easy-Pedal
6. Progressively loosen each of the mounting bolts
in the pattern shown in Fig. 10. This will prevent
warping or bending within the clutch, and will WARNING
ease removal of the clutch mounting bolts. The clutch assembly is heavy. It should be re-
moved and installed only with a lifting device. If
the assembly is lifted incorrectly or dropped, it
could cause serious personal injury.

Clutch Removal
7. Remove the mounting bolts, and carefully re-

move the clutch assembly.
Be careful to keep the spline aligning tool in
place to retain the discs and intermediate plate.
Remove the spline aligning tool, the rear driven
disc, the intermediate plate, and the front driven
disc.
8. Use an appropriate puller to remove the pilot
bearing. Inspect the old pilot bearing. Correct the
cause of any unusual wear or damage. Discard
the bearing.

Clutch Inspection and Pre-Installation Procedures
Clutch Inspection Example: The highest reading is +0.004 at

12 o’clock. The lowest reading is –0.003
at 9 o’clock. Therefore the total runout is
CAUTION 0.007 inch.
Misalignment of any parts described in these pro-
cedures will cause premature wear of drivetrain +.004
components.
IMPORTANT: When taking the following read-
ings, rotate the engine by hand; do not crank
the engine with the starter. The engine may be
rotated by the pulley nut at the front of the −.003 +.001
crankshaft, the flywheel mounting bolts, or the
starter ring-gear on the flywheel.
1. Clean the surfaces being measured to ensure
accurate measurements.
2. Measure the runout of the flywheel face (friction 0
04/30/2003 f250168b
surface). See Fig. 1 for the correct set-up.
Take four readings, starting with zero at the 6 o’clock
position, and going on to 9, 12, and 3 o’clock. Make
sure the dial returns to zero at the original start position.
Fig. 2, Calculate the Runout
2.4 The SAE maximum total runout for the

flywheel face is 0.008 inch (0.20 mm). If
the readings are higher, see the engine
manufacturer’s manual for instructions.
3. Measure the runout of the pilot-bearing bore in
the flywheel. See Fig. 3 for the correct set-up.
03/01/94 f250022a
Secure the dial indicator to the flywheel housing, with
the gauge finger against the flywheel face, and near the
outer edge.
Fig. 1, Measure the Flywheel Face
2.1 Secure the dial indicator to the flywheel

housing, with the gauge finger against the
face of the flywheel near the outer edge.
2.2 Turn the flywheel through one complete
revolution. With chalk or soapstone, mark
the high and low points on the flywheel 03/01/94 f250023a
face.
Secure the dial indicator to the flywheel housing, with
2.3 The total runout will be the difference be- the gauge finger on the surface of the pilot-bearing
tween the highest plus and minus read- bore.
ings. To calculate the runout, see Fig. 2. Fig. 3, Measure the Pilot-Bearing Bore

3.1 With the indicator still secured to the fly- 4.4 The SAE maximum total runout for the
wheel housing, move the gauge finger to flywheel-housing bore is 0.008 inch (0.20
contact the surface of the pilot-bearing mm). If readings are higher, replace the
bore. flywheel housing. For instructions, see the
engine manufacturer’s manual.
revolution. With chalk or soapstone, mark 5. Measure the runout of the face of the flywheel
the high and low points on the bore of the housing. See Fig. 5 for the correct set-up.
pilot bearing.
3.3 Calculate the runout as before.
pilot-bearing bore is 0.005 inch (0.13 mm).
If the readings are higher, see the engine
manufacturer’s manual for instructions.
4. Measure the runout of the flywheel housing bore.
See Fig. 4 for the correct set-up.
05/01/2003 f250615
Secure the dial indicator to the outer diameter of the
flywheel, with the gauge finger against the face of the
flywheel housing.
Fig. 5, Measure the Flywheel Housing Face
5.1 With the dial indicator secured to the outer

diameter of the flywheel, move the gauge
finger to contact the face of the flywheel
housing.
05/01/2003 f250611 revolution. With chalk or soapstone, mark
Secure the dial indicator to the crankshaft, with the the high and low points on the face of the
gauge finger against the side of the flywheel housing. flywheel housing.
Fig. 4, Measure the Flywheel Housing Bore 5.3 Calculate the runout as before.
4.1 Secure the dial indicator to the crankshaft, NOTE: Only if you have to reposition the
with the gauge finger against the side of flywheel housing is it necessary to mark the
the flywheel housing. high and low runout readings in clock posi-
4.2 Turn the flywheel through one complete tions.
revolution. With chalk or soapstone, mark 5.4 The SAE maximum total runout for the
the high and low points on the side of the flywheel-housing face is 0.008 inch (0.20
flywheel housing. mm). If the readings are higher, replace
4.3 Calculate the runout as before. the housing. For instructions, see the en-
gine manufacturer’s manual.
NOTE: Only if you have to reposition the
flywheel housing is it necessary to mark the NOTE: Use a case-bore plug and shaft set to
high and low runout readings in clock posi- measure the bell-housing face and pilot. Case-
tions. bore plugs are tapped into the front and rear
bores of the transmission case, and have very

close tolerances. The shaft runs through the 7.2 Turn the crankshaft through one complete
center of the plugs, and extends to the front far revolution. With chalk or soapstone, mark
enough to secure a dial indicator and obtain a the high and low points on the face of the
reading on the bell housing. crankshaft.
6. Measure the runout of the bell housing face and 7.3 Calculate the runout as before.
pilot. 7.4 See the engine manufacturer’s manual for
6.1 Secure the dial indicator to the case-bore maximum runout, corrective measures,
shaft, with the gauge finger against the and flywheel installation instructions.
face of the bell housing.
6.2 Turn the case-bore shaft through one Pre-Installation Procedures
complete revolution. With chalk or soap-
stone, mark the high and low points on Before installing a new, rebuilt, or used clutch, do the
the face of the bell housing. following procedures:
6.3 Calculate the runout as before. 1. Install a new pilot bearing. Be sure that the pilot
bearing has a press-fit in the flywheel.
bell-housing face is 0.008 inch (0.20 mm). CAUTION
If the readings are higher, replace the bell
housing. See the transmission manufac- Tap on the outer race only. Tapping on the inner
turer’s service manual for instructions. race could damage the pilot bearing.
7. Remove the flywheel (see the engine manufac- NOTE: To discourage warranty claims for drag
turer’s manual), and measure the runout of the or clutch noise, use a premium grade C3/C4
flywheel crankshaft face. See Fig. 6. pilot bearing. Due to increased operating tem-
peratures and longer clutch life, the standard
pilot bearings and grease are no longer accept-
able.
2. Check for wear on the mating surfaces of the
flywheel housing and the transmission bell hous-
ing. Any noticeable wear on either part causes
misalignment. If worn, replace the part. See
Fig. 7.
3. Check the flywheel for wear caused by the bell
housing pilot (projecting lip of the bell housing).
The correct dimension is 1/8-inch (3.2 mm).
Wear is most likely to appear between the 3
o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. See Fig. 8.
NOTE: The pilot (lip) of the bell housing can
03/01/94 f250024a wear into the flywheel housing. This can be
Secure the dial indicator to the flywheel housing, with caused by the transmission loosening up, or by
the gauge finger against the crankshaft face, and near road and engine vibration after high mileage.
the outer edge.
4. Inspect the flywheel. Replace or repair the fly-
Fig. 6, Measure the Crankshaft Face Runout wheel if the wear is extreme.
7.1 Secure the dial indicator to the flywheel 4.1 Visually inspect the friction surface of the
housing, with the gauge finger against the flywheel for heat checks and scoring.
crankshaft face, and near the outer edge.

3 2
1 3
4
5
6
05/01/2003 f250613
1
03/01/94 f250017a 1. Cross-Shaft
1. Mating Surfaces 2. Sleeve Bushing
2. Engine Flywheel Housing 3. Release Yoke Finger
3. Transmission Bell Housing 4. Input Shaft (splined area)
5. Input Shaft (smooth area)
6. Bearing Cap
Fig. 7, Inspect the Mating Surfaces
Fig. 9, Clutch Inspection Points
A
cleanly. If necessary, use a hand stone to
12 dull the sharp edges of the splines.
5.2 If the input shaft splines are worn or
notched, or if the hubs still do not slide
freely, replace the input shaft. For instruc-
9 3
tions, see the transmission manufacturer’s
service manual.
5.3 Inspect the smooth area of the input shaft
6 B for wear and/or rough spots. Replace the
f250169a
input shaft if necessary.
03/01/94
A. Top 6. To prevent side-loading, inspect all pivot points of
B. The most common areas of wear are between the 3 the clutch linkage for excessive wear and replace
o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. them if necessary. See Fig. 9. Pay special atten-
tion to the following points:
Fig. 8, Check for Wear
6.1 Check for excessive wear at the fingers of
4.2 Measure the friction surface wear with a the release yoke where they contact re-
straightedge and feeler gauge. For instruc- lease bearing wear pads.
tions, see the engine manufacturer’s 6.2 Check the clutch cross-shaft and sleeve
manual. bushings for excessive wear. Check the
5. Inspect the input shaft, both the splined and the sleeve bushings for walk-out.
smooth area. See Fig. 9. 7. To prevent clutch brake wear, check the input-
5.1 Check the fit of the splined hubs of the shaft bearing cap and measure it as shown in
driven discs by sliding them along the Fig. 10.
splines of the input shaft. The hubs must 7.1 Visually check the bearing cap for exces-
slide freely so the clutch will release sive wear.

3
1
03/01/94 f260096a
05/01/2003 f250612 Fig. 11, Install the Clutch Brake

A. Length of Input Shaft, from the Splined End to the
Bearing Cap Minimum Flywheel Bores
1. Input Shaft 3. Bearing Cap Disc Type Flywheel Bore in inch (mm)
2. Bell Housing 10-Spring 8.562 (217.48)
Fig. 10, Measure the Input Shaft 9-Spring 9.750 (247.65)

8-Spring 7.250 (184.15)
7.2 Measure the distance between the splined
end of the input shaft and the bearing cap 7-Spring 9.750 (247.65)
(dimension A). If dimension A is greater 6-Spring 9.750 (247.65)
than 8.71 inches (221.5 mm), replace the Table 1, Minimum Flywheel Bores
bearing cap.
NOTE: Torque-limiting clutch brakes are a one-
piece assembly with a large and a small face.
When installing a torque-limiting clutch brake on
an Eaton® Fuller® or Meritor™ transmission, in-
stall the smaller face toward the transmission.
8. Install a new clutch brake on the transmission
input shaft, as shown in Fig. 11. Slide it tight
against the input-shaft bearing cap.
9. Check the diameter of the flywheel bore opening
(this is the recessed area for the flywheel bolt
circle). See Table 1 for minimum flywheel bore
diameters for each disc type.

Clutch Installation
Installation
Solo™ Heavy-Duty Clutch
NOTE: Do the clutch inspection and pre-
installation procedures in Subject 120 before
installing the clutch.
E
LAC
REP
1. If not already installed, insert two 7/16–14 x 5
guide studs in the upper mounting holes of the
flywheel. See Fig. 1. Rotate the flywheel to level
the guide studs.
06/02/97 f250419
Fig. 2, Insert an Aligning Tool, Solo
03/01/94 f250034a
Fig. 1, Install the Guide Studs
2. If installed (on new clutches), remove the protec-

tive coating from the pressure plate and the in-
termediate plate.
3. Set the clutch cover upright, and insert a spline
aligning tool through the release bearing sleeve.
See Fig. 2.
NOTE: Six-spring driven discs are identical,
front and rear. Either disc can be installed first
on the aligning tool.
04/23/2003 f250608
4. Install the rear driven disc and intermediate
plate. Fig. 3, Installing the Rear Driven Disc
4.1 Install the rear driven disc on the aligning 4.3 Make sure the positive separator pins™
tool, with the side stamped INTERMEDI- protrude toward the flywheel side. See
ATE PLATE SIDE facing away from the Fig. 4. The pins should be flush on the
clutch cover. See Fig. 3. pressure-plate side.
4.2 Place the intermediate plate in the clutch 5. Install the front driven disc on the aligning tool,
cover. Align the drive lugs of the plate with with the side stamped INTERMEDIATE PLATE
the notches in the cover. See Fig. 4. SIDE facing the intermediate plate. See Fig. 5.

Clutch Installation
WARNING
A the assembly is lifted incorrectly or dropped, it
could cause serious personal injury.
6. Position the clutch over the two guide studs, and
slide the assembly forward until contact is made
with the flywheel surface. See Fig. 6.
04/23/2003 f250609
The separator pins should protrude to the flywheel side.
A. Flywheel Side
Fig. 4, Positioning the Intermediate Plate

E
LAC
REP
06/02/97 f250422
Fig. 6, Positioning the Clutch Cover, Solo
7. Install the mounting capscrews. See Fig. 7.

7.1 Start six 7/16–14 x 2-1/4 (grade 5 or bet-
ter) mounting capscrews with lockwash-
ers, and fasten them finger-tight.
7.2 Tap the aligning tool to make sure it is
centered and seated in the pilot bearing.
7.3 Remove the two guide studs and replace
them with the two remaining 7/16–14 x
2-1/4 mounting capscrews and lockwash-
ers.
8. Tighten the eight mounting capscrews progres-
04/23/2003 f250610
sively, in a crisscross pattern as shown in Fig. 8.
Fig. 5, Installing the Front Driven Disc The final torque is 40 to 50 lbf·ft (54 to 68 N·m).
IMPORTANT: Failure to tighten the bolts accord-
ing to this procedure can have the following ef-
fects:

Clutch Installation
RE
PL
AC
E
RE
PL
AC
E
06/02/97 f250423
Fig. 7, Tap Aligning Tool
06/20/2000 f250418
6 2
Fig. 9, Remove the Shipping Bolts
NOTE: Retain these four shipping bolts. These

bolts will be needed in the future to secure the
4 clutch assembly during removal and installation.
7
10. Remove the aligning tool. On maintenance-free
clutches only, remove the input shaft sleeve.
8
E
NOTE: Do not be concerned if the release bear-

LAC
3
REP
ing housing touches the clutch cover.

11. Set the positive separator pins.
11.1 Locate the pin access holes. See Fig. 10.
1 5
WARNING
05/29/2003 f250426a
Wear safety goggles when tapping the pins. If
Fig. 8, Tightening Sequence, Solo any of the metal parts were to chip, flying pieces
of metal could possibly cause eye injury.
• prevent the clutch cover from centering
into the pilot area of the flywheel; 11.2 Using a 1/4-inch (6-mm) diameter flat
nose punch, lightly tap each of the four
• cause the clutch assembly to be out-of- positive separator pins toward the flywheel
balance with the flywheel; through the access holes. This step veri-
• cause permanent damage to the clutch fies that all the four pins are flush against
the flywheel. See Fig. 11.
cover.
9. Following a crisscross pattern, remove and retain
NOTE: Failure to perform this step properly may
the four yellow shipping bolts from the clutch cause the clutch to drag (clutch does not re-
cover. See Fig. 9. lease). If necessary, after the transmission has

Clutch Installation
been installed, the four pins can be set through

the inspection opening of the transmission bell
housing.
12. Using a clean cloth, remove all grease from the
input shaft.
13. Shift the transmission into gear so that during
assembly the transmission input shaft can be
rotated into line with the clutch driven-disc hub
splines.
14. Install the transmission and attach the clutch link-
age.
RE
PL
AC
E
CAUTION
Avoid springing the driven discs when the trans-
mission is being installed. Do not excessively
force the transmission into the clutch assembly
or engine housing. If it doesn’t enter freely, in-
vestigate the cause of the problem and then
make any necessary changes. Don’t let the trans-
06/02/97 f250417
mission drop or hang unsupported in the driven
Fig. 10, Pin Access Holes, Solo discs. If this should occur, the rear disc will be-
come bent or distorted, causing the clutch to
drag (not release).
IMPORTANT: Be sure the release yoke clears
the bearing, and is rotated over the wear pads
as the transmission is moved forward. See
Fig. 12. Align the splines by turning the trans-
mission output shaft.
15. Lubricate the release bearing and cross-shaft
bushings. For instructions and recommended
lubricants, see Group 25 of the Heavy-Duty
Trucks Maintenance Manual.
REPLACE
Easy-Pedal™ Clutch
1
NOTE: Do the clutch inspection and pre-
installation procedures in Subject 120 before
installing the clutch.
1. If not already installed, insert two 7/16–14 x 5
guide studs in the upper mounting holes of the
06/02/97 f250416 flywheel. See Fig. 1. Rotate the flywheel to level
1. Pin Access Hole the guide studs.
2. If the clutch is new, remove the protective coat-
Fig. 11, Tapping the Pin, Solo ing from the pressure plate and the intermediate
plate.

Clutch Installation
03/01/94 f250035a
Fig. 12, Make Sure the Release Yoke Clears the Bearing
3. Set the clutch cover upright, and insert a spline NOTE: On 8-, 9-, and 10-spring discs, this
aligning tool through the release bearing sleeve. side will be stamped FLYWHEEL SIDE.
See Fig. 13.
4.2 Place the intermediate plate in the clutch
cover. Align the drive lugs of the plate with
the notches in the cover. See Fig. 4.
4.3 Make sure the positive separator pins™
protrude toward the flywheel side. See
Fig. 4. The pins should be flush on the
pressure-plate side.
5. Install the front driven disc on the aligning tool,
with the side stamped INTERMEDIATE PLATE
SIDE facing the intermediate plate. See Fig. 5.
Be sure that both driven discs are aligned as
shown in Fig. 14.
NOTE: On 8-, 9-, and 10-spring discs, this side
is stamped FLYWHEEL SIDE.
03/01/94 f250036a
Fig. 13, Insert an Aligning Tool, Easy-Pedal WARNING

NOTE: Six-spring driven discs are identical,
front and rear. Either disc can be installed first the assembly is lifted incorrectly or dropped, it
on the aligning tool. could cause serious personal injury.
4. Install the rear driven disc and intermediate 6. Position the clutch over the two guide studs, and
plate. slide the assembly forward until it starts in the
4.1 Install the rear driven disc on the aligning flywheel pilot. See Fig. 15.
tool, with the side stamped INTERMEDI- 7. Start six 7/16–14 x 2-1/4 (grade 5 or better)
ATE PLATE SIDE facing away from the mounting bolts with lockwashers, and fasten
clutch cover. See Fig. 3.

Clutch Installation
03/01/94 f250041a
Fig. 15, Positioning the Clutch, Easy-Pedal
B C
6 2
10/10/95 f250315
4 7
A. Flywheel Side
B. Front Driven Disc
C. Rear Driven Disc
8 3
Fig. 14, Checking Disc Alignment
them finger-tight. Tap the aligning tool to make

sure it is centered and seated in the pilot bear-
ing, then remove the two guide studs and re- 1 5
place them with 7/16–14 x 2-1/4 bolts and lock-
washers. 10/10/95 f250316
8. Tighten the eight clutch mounting bolts progres-
Fig. 16, Tightening Sequence, Easy-Pedal
sively, in the sequence shown in Fig. 16. The
final torque is 40 to 50 lbf·ft (54 to 68 N·m). 9. As the capscrews are tightened, the release
bearing spacers should fall free. If they don’t,
CAUTION remove them. This may require light taps with a
mallet on the end of the aligning tool.
If the bolts are not tightened in sequence, it may
cause permanent damage to the clutch cover and 10. Remove the aligning tool.
create an out-of-balance condition. 11. Set the positive separator pins.
11.1 Locate the pin access holes. See Fig. 17.

Clutch Installation
10/11/95 f250318
1. Pin Access Hole

10/11/95 f250317
Fig. 18, Tapping the Pin, Easy-Pedal
Fig. 17, Pin Access Holes, Easy-Pedal
14. Install the transmission and attach the clutch link-
age.
WARNING
IMPORTANT: Be sure the release yoke clears
Wear safety goggles when tapping the pins. If the bearing, and is rotated over the wear pads
any of the metal parts were to chip, flying pieces
as the transmission is moved forward. See
of metal could possibly cause eye injury.
Fig. 12. Align the splines by turning the trans-
11.2 Using a 1/4-inch (6-mm) diameter flat mission output shaft.
nose punch, lightly tap each of the four
positive separator pins toward the flywheel CAUTION
through the access holes. This step veri-
fies that all the four pins are flush against Avoid springing the driven discs when the trans-
the flywheel. See Fig. 18. mission is being installed. Don’t force the trans-
NOTE: Failure to perform this step properly may mission into the clutch or flywheel housing if it
cause the clutch to drag (clutch does not re- doesn’t enter freely. Don’t let the transmission
drop or hang unsupported in the driven discs.
lease). If necessary, after the transmission has These practices can damage the clutch assembly.
been installed, the four pins can be set through
the inspection opening of the transmission bell 15. Grease the release bearing and release shafts.
housing. For instructions and recommended lubricants,
See Group 25 of the Heavy-Duty Trucks Mainte-
12. Using a clean cloth, remove all grease from the nance Manual.
input shaft.
16. Adjust the clutch according to the procedures in
13. Shift the transmission into gear. Rotate the trans- Subject 100.
mission input shaft to line up with the clutch
driven-disc hub splines during assembly.

Resetting the Clutch
Resetting Releasing a Seized Cam

A seized cam may be caused by grease, dust, or
NOTE: This procedure requires two persons; other debris accumulated around the outer perimeter
one under the vehicle with access to the wear of the cam. The cam must operate freely for the
indicating tab, and the other in the vehicle to clutch to work properly. The Eaton Seized Cam Ad-
operate the clutch pedal. justment Tool is designed specifically for releasing a
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down seized cam. See Table 1.
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the 1. While an assistant holds down the clutch pedal,
tires. insert the tip of the Seized Cam Adjustment Tool
2. Inside the cab, press the clutch pedal all the way through the access panel and position it under
down, and hold it there until instructed to release the bearing. See Fig. 3.
it later in this procedure. 2. Align the tool so that the threaded bolt extends
3. Through the clutch cover, use moderate force to into the slot in the cam. See Fig. 3.
slide the wear indicating tab leftward until it is at IMPORTANT: Use the Seized Cam Adjustment
the "NEW" position on the indicator. See Fig. 1. Tool carefully. Do not use heavy force on it;
If the tab does not move, follow the instructions heavy force can break the cam.
under the heading "Releasing a Seized Cam".
3. Using the tool, carefully try to move the cam to-
ward the right or "Replace" position.
1 If the cam moves easily, move it back to the
left to verify that spring tension will pull it back to
the right. If it returns to the right, then the cam
E
AC has been released and you can continue with the
EPL
NE
W
R resetting procedure. If it will not return to the
right, the cam spring may be broken.
2 If the cam does not move easily, continue to
the next step.
IMPORTANT: Use WD-40® only. Do not substi-
tute another penetrant for WD-40.
06/04/97 f250428 4. Use sideways pressure to the right and lightly
With the clutch pedal down, set the tab to the "NEW" pull the tool away from the engine to separate
position on the indicator. the top cam from the bottom cam. If the cam
1. Clutch Cover 2. Wear Indicating Tab moves slightly to the right, let up on the clutch
pedal. If the cam is still seized, spray WD-40 into
Fig. 1, Resetting the Wear Indicating Tab the cam slot and three spring perches. To access
all three perches, rotate the engine as needed.
4. Release the clutch pedal.
If the cam is still seized, do the following.
5. To remove the gap between the sleeve and the
pin, install four 7/16–14 x 1-3/4 bolts (shipping 4.1 Again spray WD-40 into the cam slot and
bolts may be used when available), and use a all three spring perches.
hand tool to tighten them until the gap is re- 4.2 Inside the cab, release the clutch pedal,
moved and the bolts are snug. See Fig. 2. then press it all the way down. Next, with
6. Remove the bolts. the clutch pedal pressed down, jiggle the
tool in the cam slots to apply pressure in
7. Press the clutch pedal all the way down, and
all directions.
squeeze the clutch brake five times to reposition
the bearing. 5. Remove the tool.

1
1
1
A
2
1 3
1
4
08/02/2006 f250655
A. Gap Between the Sleeve and the Pin

1. Bolt 3. Pin 4. Access Panel
2. Sleeve
Fig. 2, Removing the Gap Between the Sleeve and the Pin
Tool Description Eaton Tool Part Code
Seized Cam Adjustment Tool CLPI-SOLOTOOL
f580427
Table 1, Special Tool for Releasing a Seized Cam

08/02/2006
1 f250656
1. Seized Cam Adjustment Tool

2. Threaded Bolt
3. Access Panel
Fig. 3, Releasing a Seized Cam

Troubleshooting
Problem—The Clutch Does Not Release Completely
The clutch pedal height is incorrect. Adjust the clutch to obtain the following settings:
• 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm) release bearing travel;
• 0.105 to 0.145 inch (2.7 to 3.7 mm) release yoke free-travel; and
• 1/2 to 1 inch (12.7 to 25.4 mm) clutch brake squeeze.
The bushing in the release bearing sleeve Replace the clutch cover.
assembly is damaged.
The clutch cover assembly is not properly Re-seat the clutch cover assembly into the flywheel. Use a crisscross pattern
seated into the flywheel. when tightening the mounting bolts.
The intermediate plate and/or pressure Replace any damaged parts.
plate is cracked or broken.
The cross shafts protrude through the re- Check for protruding cross shafts. Repair or replace as necessary.
lease yoke (a side-loading condition ex-
ists).
The release yoke fingers are bent or worn Install a new release yoke.
(a side-loading condition exists).
The engine housing and bell housing are Check for loose transmission mounting bolts. Tighten the transmission mount-
misaligned (a side-loading condition ex- ing bolts to the proper torque.
ists).
The clutch linkage is set up improperly (a Thoroughly examine the clutch linkage and adjust as necessary.
side-loading condition exists).
The driven discs are distorted or warped. Replace any distorted or warped driven discs. If the transmission is allowed to
hang unsupported during clutch installation, the driven discs may become dis-
torted.
The driven discs are installed backwards, Install new driven discs. Also, check the clutch cover for any damage. Replace
or the front and rear driven discs were the clutch cover if damaged.
switched with each other.
The input shaft spline is worn. Replace the input shaft. Also, check the driven disc hubs for wear. Replace
the driven discs if worn.
The input shaft spline is coated with Clean and dry the input shaft spline before installation.
grease, anti-seize compound, etc.
The input shaft splines are twisted. Select a new driven disc and slide it along the full length of the splines. If the
disc does not slide freely, replace the input shaft.
The input-shaft bearing cap is worn. Replace the input-shaft bearing.
The flywheel pilot bearing fits either too Check the pilot bearing for proper fit and replace it if worn.
tight or too loose in the flywheel and/or
end of input shaft.
The pilot bearing is dry or damaged. Replace the pilot bearing.
The positive separator pins are bent, dam- Be sure to use the proper tool when setting the positive separator pins. Also,
aged or incorrectly set. take great care when handling the intermediate plate. For procedures, see
Subject 130.

Troubleshooting

The clutch brake is damaged and/or not Install a new clutch brake.
functioning.
The driven disc faces are coated with oil Replace the driven disc assemblies. Cleaning the old driven discs is not
or grease. recommended.
There is foreign material (dirt, chaff, salt, Remove the foreign material and make sure the clutch inspection cover is
etc.) inside the clutch cover. installed.
The drive pins are cocked, causing the The drive pins must be ninety degrees square to the flywheel surface with a
intermediate plate to stick on the drive 0.006-inch (0.15-mm) minimum clearance between drive pins and intermediate
lugs (Easy-Pedal only). plate slots. Repair or replace as necessary.
The pressure plate is not fully retracting Check the pressure plate return springs through the clutch inspection cover. If
(Easy-Pedal only). any are bent, stretched, or broken, replace them as necessary.
The release bearing travel is excessive Adjust the release bearing travel from 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm).
and is causing the lever to contact the
pressure plate (Easy-Pedal only).
The three anti-rattle springs were installed Install the anti-rattle springs so the rounded sections are pointed toward the
backwards (Easy-Pedal only). flywheel/engine.
Problem—The Clutch Rattles or Is Noisy

There is excessive flywheel runout. Repair or replace the flywheel. For procedures, see the engine manufacturer’s
manual.
There is corrosion between the input shaft Clean the mating parts between the input shaft and driven discs to ensure that
spline and the driven disc hubs. the discs slide freely over the input shaft spline.
The engine idle is too fast. Readjust engine idle to proper idling speed.
The clutch release bearing is dry or Lubricate the clutch release bearing. If the noise persists, install a new clutch
damaged. cover.
The flywheel pilot bearing is dry or Replace the flywheel pilot bearing.
damaged.
The bridge of the release yoke is hitting Check for a worn, broken or missing clutch brake. Also, check the release
the clutch cover (an over-stroking yoke and input-shaft bearing cap for wear. Replace any worn parts.
condition exists).
The release yoke fingers are hitting the Check if the release bearing, clutch cover, or release yoke fingers are worn or
clutch cover. broken. Replace worn parts.
The clutch inspection cover is not Re-install the clutch inspection cover.
installed.
The sleeve bushings are worn. Investigate for any side-loading conditions on the release bearing housing. If
there is a side-loading condition, determine its cause. Also, before installing
the new clutch, make sure that the side-loading condition has been corrected.
The clutch linkage is rattling excessively. Clean, lubricate and reassemble or replace missing/worn parts.
An idle gear rattle is coming from the Specify low-vibration driven discs. Check the engine for correct idle speed.
transmission. For procedures, consult the engine manufacturer’s manual.

Troubleshooting

The damper spring cover of the driven Install the correct clutch assembly.
disc assembly is interfering with the
flywheel.
The rivets of the rear driven disc are Adjust the clutch internally (via the adjustment bolt). For procedures, see
interfering with the retainer assembly Subject 100.
(Easy-Pedal only).
Problem—The Clutch Vibrates

The flywheel is loose. Retighten the flywheel mounting bolts to the proper specifications.
The universal joints are worn. Replace the worn parts.
The driveshaft is not properly phased. Investigate and correct the phasing of the driveshaft.
The driveshaft is not balanced. Balance and straighten the driveshaft.
The driveline angles are incorrect. Shim the drivetrain components to equalize universal joint angles.
The flywheel is not balanced. Balance the flywheel.
The pilot area of the clutch is not Ensure that no dirt, burrs, etc., are preventing the clutch cover from
completely seated into the flywheel. completely seating into the flywheel mounting surface.
The engine mounts are loose, damaged, Replace any worn or damaged parts. Retighten all bolts to proper
or worn out. specifications.
The engine is misfiring. The engine is not in tune. To correct the problem, see the engine
manufacturer’s manual.
There is excessive flywheel runout. Repair or replace the flywheel. For procedures, see the engine manufacturer’s
manual.
The rivets of the rear driven disc are Adjust the clutch internally (via the adjustment bolt). For procedures, see
interfering with the retainer assembly Subject 100.
(Easy-Pedal only).
Problem—The Clutch Needs Frequent Adjustments

The release yoke free-travel is insufficient. After first adjusting the clutch for 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm) release
bearing travel, adjust the clutch linkage to obtain release yoke free-travel of
0.105 to 0.145 inch (2.7 to 3.7 mm).
The clutch specification is incorrect. Check the clutch specifications in Subject 400. Install a new clutch with the
proper specifications, if necessary.
The cross shafts and/or clutch linkage Investigate the entire clutch linkage system to determine if it is binding or
system is worn. operating sporadically and/or worn excessively.
The clutch driven discs are worn down to Install a new clutch. For procedures, see Subject 130.
the rivets.

Troubleshooting

The crankshaft has excessive end play. Repair or replace the crankshaft. Consult the engine manufacturer’s manual
for procedures.
Problem—The Clutch Slips

The clutch pedal has no free travel. Readjust the clutch.
The clutch is overloaded. Verify that the proper clutch has been specified for the particular vehicle
application.
The release mechanism is binding. Free up the release mechanism and linkage. Also, check the clutch linkage
adjustment.
The driven disc faces are coated with oil Replace the driven disc assembly.
or grease.
The driver is riding the clutch pedal. Use correct driving procedures.
The input shaft spline is worn. Replace the input shaft.
Problem—The Clutch Grabs or Chatters

Problem—The Clutch Grabs or Chatters
The clutch is worn out. Replace the clutch and all worn components.
The linkage system is not operating freely. Check the clutch linkage for binding or excessive wear. Replace all worn
parts.
The driven disc faces are coated with oil Replace the driven disc assembly.
or grease.
The engine mounts are loose. Retighten the engine mounts to manufacturer’s specifications.
The release yoke fingers and/or the Replace all the worn parts.
release bearing wear pads are worn
excessively.

Specifications
All Heavy-Duty Clutches

Clutch Torque Values in lbf·ft (N·m)
Description Size Grade Easy-Pedal™ Solo™ Heavy-Duty
Mounting Bolts, Clutch Cover to Flywheel 7/16–14 x 2-1/4 5 40–50 (54–68) 40–50 (54–68)
Table 1, Clutch Torque Values
Clutch Adjustments
Dimension Definition Specification in inch (mm)
Release Bearing Travel (internal The distance between the release bearing and the 1/2–9/16 (12.7–14.3)
adjustment) clutch brake.
Release Yoke Free-Travel The distance between the release yoke fingers and the 0.105–0.145 (2.7–3.7)
(linkage adjustment) release bearing wear pads.
Clutch Brake Squeeze (pedal The movement of the clutch pedal from the time that 1/2–1 (12.7–25.4)
adjustment) the clutch brake contacts the release bearing until the
pedal reaches the end of its stroke.
Table 2, Clutch Adjustments
Clutch Inspection Tolerances

Measurement Dial Indicator at Gauge Finger at Maximum Runout in inch (mm)
Flywheel Face Runout Flywheel Housing Flywheel Face 0.008 (0.20)
Pilot Bearing Bore Runout Flywheel Housing Pilot Bearing Bore 0.005 (0.13)
Flywheel Housing Bore Runout Crankshaft Flywheel Housing Bore 0.008 (0.20)
Flywheel Housing Face Runout Flywheel Outer Diameter Flywheel Housing 0.008 (0.20)
Face
Table 3, Clutch Inspection Tolerances
Minimum Flywheel Bores

Disc Type Minimum Flywheel Bore in inch (mm)
10-Spring 8.562 (217.48)
9-Spring 9.750 (247.65)
8-Spring 7.250 (184.15)
7-Spring 9.750 (247.65)
6-Spring 9.750 (247.65)
Table 4, Minimum Flywheel Bores
Solo Heavy-Duty Clutches

Specifications
Solo Heavy-Duty Clutch Specifications

Solo Part Number Flywheel Bore in inch (mm) Damper Style No. of Springs No. of Facings
Standard Yoke Roller Yoke
109701–81 N/A 7.0 (178) Free Travel 8 4
109701–74 N/A 8.5 (216) Free Travel 10 4
109701–82 109705–82Y 10.0 (254) Low Rate 7 4
109701–20 109705–20Y 10.0 (254) VCTplus 7 6
109701–25 109705–25Y 10.0 (254) VCTplus 7 6
N/A 109706–32Y 10.0 (254) VCTplus 7 6
Table 5, Solo Heavy-Duty Clutch Specifications
Solo Heavy-Duty Clutch Capacity

Solo Part Number Plate Load in lbf (N) Torque in lbf·ft (N·m) * Pressure Spring Color Code
Standard Yoke Roller Yoke
109701–81 N/A 3600 (16 000) 1400 (2000) White
109701–74 N/A 3600 (16 000) 1650 (2235) Plain
109701–82 109705–82Y 4000 (18 000) 1700 (2305) Plain
109701–20 109705–20Y 4000 (18 000) 1860 (2520) Red
109701–25 109705–25Y 4000 (18 000) 2050 (2780) White
N/A 109706–32Y 4000 (18 000) 2250 (3050) Green
* The clutch torque rating must equal or exceed the rated torque of the engine.
Table 6, Solo Heavy-Duty Clutch Capacity
Solo Clutch Pressure Plate Wear Pin Resetting

Component Depth in inch (mm)
Pressure Plate Face 0.525 (13.3)
Table 7, Solo Clutch Pressure Plate Wear Pin Resetting
Easy-Pedal Clutches
Easy-Pedal Clutch Specifications
Easy-Pedal Part Number Flywheel Bore in inch (mm) Damper Style No. of Springs No. of Facings
108391–81 7.0 (178) Free Travel 8 4
108391–74B 8.5 (216) Free Travel 10 4
108925–82B 10.0 (254) Low Rate 7 4
108925–20 10.0 (254) VCTplus 7 6
108925–25 10.0 (254) VCTplus 7 6
Table 8, Easy-Pedal Clutch Specifications

Specifications
Easy-Pedal Clutch Capacity

Easy-Pedal Part Number Plate Load in lbf (N) Torque in lbf·ft (N·m) * Pressure Spring Color Code
108391–81B 3600 (16 000) 1400 (2000) White
108391–74B 3600 (16 000) 1650 (2235) Plain
108925–82B 4000 (18 000) 1700 (2305) Plain
108925–20 4000 (18 000) 1860 (2520) Red
108925–25 4000 (18 000) 2050 (2780) White
* The clutch torque rating must equal or exceed the rated torque of the engine.
Table 9, Easy-Pedal 15-1/2 Inch Clutch Capacity
Easy-Pedal Clutch Component Dimensions

Dimension Standard Duty in inch (mm) Super Duty in inch (mm)
Driven Disc Thickness (new) 0.450 (11.43) 0.360 (9.43)
Intermediate Plate Thickness (new) 0.580–0.630 (14.73–16.00) 0.750–0.810 (19.05–20.57)
Table 10, Easy-Pedal Clutch Component Dimensions

Rockwell 14 and 15-1/2 Inch Clutches 25.01
General Description and mounted on the flywheel. In the 15-1/2 inch model,
the center plate has tabs that fit into slots on the
Principles of Operation clutch cover assembly.
A splined transmission input shaft projects through
Rockwell clutches ( Fig. 1) are available in 14-inch
the cover assembly and driven discs and rests in a
and 15-1/2 inch models in Freightliner trucks. An
pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel. The
identification plate is located on the front cover.
splined hubs of the driven discs mesh with the
Rockwell clutches feature the following design char-
splined input shaft to transmit power from the engine
acteristics:
to the transmission. The rest of the clutch assembly
• Two-plate can spin freely around the input shaft when the
• Diaphragm-spring clutch pedal is depressed.
• Pull-type A clutch brake stops the transmission gears from ro-

tating when the truck is stopped and when shifting
• Dry-disc into first or reverse gears. This lets the gears engage
• Eight-hole installation pattern quickly without gear clash.
6 7
3 2
5
02/28/94 1 f250237a
1. Molded Organic Discs 5. Pressure Plate and Cover Assembly
2. Center Plate (15-1/2 Inch Clutch) 6. Release Bearing
3. Center Plate (14-Inch Clutch) 7. Clutch Brake
4. Ceramic Discs
Fig. 1, Rockwell Two-Plate Clutch

Mounted directly on the flywheel, the clutch cover The release bearing assembly transfers the move-
assembly houses most of the components, including ment of the clutch linkage to engage or disengage
the pressure plate. A diaphragm-type spring provides the clutch. The release bearing assembly is available
the force necessary to push the pressure plate for- with a grease fitting or as a "lubed for life" assembly.
ward and engage the clutch. Ball bearings permit the release bearing to rotate
freely. A coil spring is installed on the sleeve between
In the 14-inch model, the center plate, which sepa-
the release bearing and the hub. The coil spring
rates the driven discs, is carried on drive pins

25.01 Rockwell 14 and 15-1/2 Inch Clutches
holds the sleeve on the retainer in a "ball joint" ar- spring design reduces the clutch pedal effort
rangement. This prevents vibration and allows for as compared to a coil spring design.
minor misalignment that may occur between the • Six levers connect the cover assembly to the
transmission and the engine due to tolerances be-
release bearing sleeve. The levers multiply
tween the mounting surface dimensions.
and transfer the force of the diaphragm spring
from the retainer to the pressure plate.
3
• The adjusting ring, located inside the cover
4 and in front of the pressure plate, controls the
release bearing clearance. The clearance must
2 be adjusted periodically to compensate for
clutch lining wear.
• The pressure plate applies the force from the
diaphragm spring and locks the clutch discs
between the center plate and the flywheel.
The clutch discs are splined to allow movement
along the transmission input shaft. Power is transmit-
ted from the flywheel, pressure plate, and center
plate through the discs to the transmission. Both
dampened and rigid discs are available. See Fig. 3
and Fig. 4. Dampened clutch discs absorb vibration
with spring washers, friction material, and co-axial
torsion springs. The co-axial torsion springs also ab-
sorb torque shock during engagement. Rigid discs do
not use any material to absorb vibration or torque
5
shock.
1
6
02/28/94 f250238a
1. Diaphragm Spring 4. Adjusting Ring
2. Cover 5. Pressure Plate
3. Strap 6. Lever
Fig. 2, Clutch Components

The pressure plate and cover assembly apply the 1
force necessary to engage the clutch. The following
parts are in the pressure plate and cover assembly.
See Fig. 2.
• The cover is the housing for the diaphragm
spring, adjusting ring, levers, retainer, and the
release bearing sleeve. Three holes in the
cover provide air flow to remove heat from the 02/28/94 f250239a
clutch. 1. Molded Organic Lining
• The diaphragm spring is a one-piece unit that Fig. 3, Dampened Disc
produces the pressure to lock the discs be-
tween the pressure plate, the center plate, and Two kinds of lining are available on the discs:
the flywheel. The spring is located and held in molded organic linings (on rigid and dampened
the cover by the retainer. The diaphragm discs) and ceramic linings (on dampened discs only).

The center plate increases the service life of the

clutch by increasing the surface area for power trans-
fer. The 14-inch clutch center plate is driven by pins
in the flywheel housing, which fit into slots on the
plate. The 15-1/2 inch clutch center plate is driven by
tabs on the plate which fit into slots on the clutch
cover.
02/28/94 f250240a
Fig. 4, Rigid Disc

Molded organic linings ( Fig. 3), are made from a
non-asbestos material. The organic material is inte-
grally molded directly onto the disc. The groove pat-
tern of the molded organic lining removes dust
formed during lining wear and also promotes cooling.
Clutch engagement with the organic lining is less
abrupt than with the ceramic lining.
Ceramic disc linings ( Fig. 5), are made from ce-
ramic and bronze material. Rivets fasten the ceramic
lining to the disc. The ceramic lining provides positive
clutch engagement.
02/28/94 f250242a
1. Ceramic Lining
Fig. 5, Ceramic-Lined Disc

Clutch Internal Adjustments

NOTE: Clutch linkage adjustment is required
only after repair or replacement of the clutch or
clutch linkage components. Refer to the clutch
linkage section in this manual for procedures.
Internal clutch adjustments should be done when-
ever:
• the clutch is removed or installed
A
• any component of the clutch linkage is ser-
viced
• the free travel of the clutch pedal is less than
1/2 inch (13 mm).
Make sure of the following before adjusting the 1 2
02/28/94 f250301a
clutch:
A = 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm) Clearance
• The clutch system is in good condition. 1. Clutch Brake 2. Release Bearing
• The linkage is tight but moves freely during
operation. Fig. 1, Measure the Distance Between the Release
Bearing and the Clutch Brake
• There is no "false" free travel. Keep the clutch
lever from moving and depress the clutch (12.7 mm) in diameter; the other end has blue
pedal. If the pedal moves more than 1/2 inch tape on it and is 0.56 inch (14.3 mm) in diam-
(13 mm), "false free travel" is in the linkage. eter.
Inspect the linkage and all pivot points for
wear or damage. Repair or replace worn or 3. If using tool A02–12419 to check the distance
damaged parts. between the release bearing and the clutch
brake, position the tool so that the legs straddle
• The release fork moves when the clutch pedal the transmission input shaft. Check the gap with
moves. both ends of the tool as follows:
Release-Bearing Clearance Check

1. Remove the inspection hole cover on the clutch
housing. A B
2. Measure the distance between the end of the A B

release bearing and the clutch brake. See Fig. 1.
This distance must be 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to
14.3 mm). 03/26/96 f580133
NOTE: While checking this dimension, pull the A. 0.50 inch (12.7 mm)
B. 0.56 inch (14.3 mm)
release bearing toward the transmission, using
your hand or a screwdriver. Fig. 2, Inspection Tool A02-12419
IMPORTANT: An inspection tool A02–12419 3.1 Insert the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end.
(available through the PDCs) can be used to If it fits loosely the gap is too wide and
check the distance between the release bearing adjustment is needed. Go to the next
and the clutch brake. See Fig. 2. One end of step.
the tool has green tape on it and is 0.50 inch 3.2 If the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end can’t
be inserted in the gap, then try to insert

the green 0.50-inch (12.7-mm) end. If the ing a screwdriver or an adjusting tool as a
green end of the tool fits, snug or loose, lever against the notches in the ring,
then no adjustment is needed. move the adjusting ring. See Fig. 4.
When the adjusting ring is moved one
3.3 If the green end of the tool can’t be in- notch, the release bearing will move 1/32
serted in the gap, adjustment is needed. inch (about 0.5 mm).
Go to the next step.
4. If the release bearing clearance is not correct,
adjust the clutch.
4.1 Turn the flywheel so that the lock plate is
seen through the inspection cover.
See Fig. 3.
01/02/96 f250244a
1. Lock Plate
Fig. 3, Remove the Lock Plate 01/15/98 f250245a
NOTE: Do not use the starter to move the A. Turn the adjusting ring in this direction to move the
release bearing toward the clutch.
flywheel. Turn the crankshaft with a socket B. Turn the adjusting ring in this direction to move the
wrench on the front pulley. If the front pulley release bearing away from the clutch.
is difficult to turn, use a spanner wrench on 1. Adjusting Ring Tool
the teeth of the flywheel. See the engine
manufacturer’s manual for further informa- Fig. 4, Turn the Adjusting Ring
tion. NOTE: The adjusting tool is available from:
4.2 Push the clutch pedal to the bottom of its Kent-Moore Tools, part number J 36216;
travel. Have another person hold the Owatonna Tools, part number 7028; or,
pedal at the bottom of its travel (or use a Snap-on Tools, part number GA454.
block of wood to hold the pedal).
4.5 Install the lock plate. Install the capscrew
4.3 Remove the capscrew and lockwasher that fastens the lock plate to the clutch
that fasten the lock plate to the clutch cover. Tighten the capscrew 25 to 30 lbf·ft
cover. See Fig. 3. (34 to 40 N·m).
4.4 Turn the adjusting ring to obtain the 4.6 Release the clutch pedal.
specified release bearing clearance. Us-

5. Check the clearance between the tips of the re-

lease fork and the bosses on the release bear-
ing. The distance must be 0.105 to 0.145 inch
(2.7 to 3.7 mm). See Fig. 5 . If necessary, adjust
the clutch linkage.
A B
03/26/96 f580132
A A. 0.105 inch (2.7 mm)

B. 0.145 inch (3.7 mm)
Fig. 6, Inspection Tool A02-12254

6.1 Insert the blue 0.145-inch (3.7-mm) end.
If it fits loosely the gap is too wide and
adjustment is needed. Go to the section
on clutch linkage adjustment in this
02/28/94 f250246a
group.
NOTE: A = 0.105–0.145 inch (2.7–3.7 mm) Clearance
6.2 If the blue 0.145-inch (3.7-mm) end can’t
1. Release Fork
2. Boss on Release be inserted in the gap, then try to insert
Bearing the green 0.105-inch (2.7-mm) end. If the
green end of the tool fits, snug or loose,
Fig. 5, Check the Clearance then no adjustment is needed.
NOTE: The pedal must be released to check the 6.3 If the green end of the tool can’t be in-
release bearing clearance. serted in the gap, adjustment is needed.
Go to the section on clutch linkage ad-
IMPORTANT: An inspection tool A02–12254 justment in this group.
(available through the PDCs) can be used to
check the distance between the bosses on the
release bearing and the tips of the release fork
(free travel). See Fig. 6.The legs on one end of
the tool have green tape on them and are 0.105
inch (2.7 mm) thick; the legs on the other end
have blue tape on them and are 0.145 inch (3.7
mm) thick.
6. If using tool A02–12254 to check the distance
between the release bearing and the release
fork, position the tool so it straddles the fork to
ensure that there won’t be any misalignment.
Check the distance with both ends of the tool as
follows:

Clutch Removal
Removal
1. Remove the transmission. Follow the procedures
in the transmission group of this manual.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not let the rear of the transmission
drop, and do not let the transmission hang un-
supported by the input shaft in the pilot bearing
bore in the flywheel. Taking these precautions
will prevent damage to the clutch assembly and
the pilot bearing.
2. Remove the clutch brake assembly from the
transmission input shaft. See Fig. 1. 1
02/28/94 f250248a
1. Alignment Tool
Fig. 2
4. Remove the top two bolts that fasten the pres-
sure plate and cover assembly to the flywheel.
Install two guide studs in the holes. See Fig. 4.
The studs can be made by removing the head
from two capscrews. Use 3/8-inch capscrews for
the 14-inch clutch and 7/16-inch capscrews for
the 15-1/2 inch clutch.
01/02/96 f250247a
1. Clutch Brake
A
Fig. 1 01/03/96 B f250249a
3. Install a clutch alignment tool through the clutch A. Make sure the splines are not damaged.
and into the flywheel pilot bearing to support the B. Remove the gear assembly from an input shaft.
clutch assembly during removal. Use the correct C. 13 Inches (33 cm)
tool so that the splines of the tool match the Fig. 3
splines in the clutch. See Fig. 2.
5. Make two wooden spacer blocks 1/2 to 5/8 inch
NOTE: If an alignment tool is not available, use (13 to 16 mm) thick. Insert them between the
an input shaft from a manual transmission. Re- release bearing assembly and the clutch cover.
move the gear from the end of the input shaft. The wooden spacer blocks ease removal and
See Fig. 3. installation of the clutch. See Fig. 5.

Clutch Removal
1
WARNING
WARNING: The pressure plate and cover assem-
bly is heavy and should be removed only with a
lifting device. If the assembly is lifted improperly
or dropped, it could cause serious physical in-
jury.
6. On 15-1/2 inch clutches, connect a lifting device
to the pressure plate and cover assembly be-
cause of the weight. See Fig. 6.
02/28/94 f250252a
1. Guide Studs
Fig. 4 2
02/28/94 f250257a
1. Guide Studs
2. 15-1/2 Inch Clutch Assembly
3. Lifting Device
Fig. 6
7. Remove the remaining bolts that fasten the pres-
1 sure plate and cover assembly to the flywheel.
NOTE: When removing the 15-1/2 inch clutch,
the discs and the pressure plate can stay in the
cover.
8. Lift the pressure plate and cover assembly over
02/28/94 f250251a the alignment tool and off the flywheel.
1. 1/2 to 5/8-inch (13 to 16 mm) Spacers See Fig. 7.
Fig. 5 9. Remove the rear disc, the center plate, and the
front disc. See Fig. 8.
10. Remove the alignment tool from the flywheel.
11. Whenever the clutch assembly is serviced or the
engine is removed, the pilot bearing in the fly-

Clutch Removal
02/28/94 f250258a
1. 14-Inch Clutch Housing

Fig. 7
1 2 3 4
5 5
02/28/94 f250259a
1. Front Clutch Disc 3. Rear Clutch Disc 5. Alignment Mark
2. Center Plate 4. Flywheel Housing
Fig. 8
wheel should be removed and replaced. Use an
appropriate internal puller to remove the pilot
bearing. Discard the pilot bearing. See Fig. 9.

Clutch Removal
02/28/94 f250260a
1. Puller Tool 2. Pilot Bearing
Fig. 9

Clutch Inspection
Clutch Inspection
A
1. Remove the clutch from the vehicle. Re-
fer to Subject 100 for instructions.
2. Inspect the release fork and the cross shaft.
See Fig. 1. Make sure the release fork os
straight and the tips of the fork are not worn or
damaged. Replace forks that are worn or dam-
aged.
Make sure the cross shaft rotates freely and
doesn’t have any side-to-side movement in the
transmission housing. If used, inspect the bush-
ings for the shaft in the housing. Replace any
parts that are worn or damaged.
01/04/96 f250262a
A. The splines must not be worn or damaged.
A
Fig. 2
WARNING
Commercial cleaning solvents are toxic, can
turer.
B 4. Remove dirt and contamination from the pres-
sure plate and cover assembly with non-
petroleum based cleaning solvents.
01/04/96 f250261a 5. Inspect the cover for wear and damage. Make
A. The cross shaft must rotate freely. sure the diaphragm spring inside the cover is not
B. The tips on the fork must not be worn or damaged. broken. See Fig. 3. If the diaphragm spring is
broken, the clutch cover must be disassembled
Fig. 1 to replace the spring.
3. Inspect the splines on the input shaft. 6. Inspect the pressure plate.
See Fig. 2. Make sure the splines are not worn
6.1 Visually check the pressure plate for wear
or damaged. Inspect the release bearing area of
or damage. See Fig. 4. If the plate is
travel for damage. Using an emery cloth, remove
cracked, replace it. Heat marks are nor-
small scratches from the input shaft. If the input
mal, and can usually be removed with an
shaft is worn or damaged, replace it. Any wear or
emery cloth. If the heat marks can’t be
damage on the input shaft causes the clutch to
removed, replace the pressure plate.
work incorrectly.
6.2 Put the pressure plate and cover assem-
bly on a bench with the plate facing up.
6.3 Using a caliper, measure any scratches or
scoring on the pressure plate. See Fig. 5.
If the damage to the surface of the plate is

Clutch Inspection
02/28/94 f250267a
Fig. 5
A straightedge and the pressure plate. Ro-
tate the straightedge through at least four
f250263a
positions. If any gap is more than 0.004
02/28/94
inch (0.10 mm), replace the pressure
A. Make sure the diaphragm spring is not broken. plate.
B. Make sure the cover is not worn or damaged.
Fig. 3
02/28/94 f250268a
A. Pressure plate flatness gap must not be more than
0.004 inch (0.10 mm).
Fig. 6
6.5 Measure the runout of the pressure plate

to make sure the surfaces are parallel to
02/28/94 A f250264a
each other. Put marks on a capscrew,
strap, and pressure plate location to en-
A. Inspect the pressure plate surface for wear, cracks,
or heat damage.
sure that the pressure plate is installed in
the original position on the cover. Remove
Fig. 4 the capscrews that fasten the pressure
plate to the strap. See Fig. 7. Put the
more than 0.015 inch (0.38 mm), replace pressure plate on a bench so that the
the pressure plate. smooth surface is up. Put the base of a
dial indicator inside the center of the plate.
6.4 Make sure the surface of the pressure
plate is flat. Put a straightedge on the sur- See Fig. 8. Put the tip of the dial indicator
face of the pressure plate, making sure it on the surface of the plate. Set the dial
crosses the center of the plate. indicator to zero. Rotate the dial indicator
See Fig. 6. Using feeler gauge, measure one complete turn around the surface of
each gap that appears between the the pressure plate. If the reading on the

Clutch Inspection
indicator is more than 0.002 inch (0.05 7.1 Visually check for wear or damage. If any
mm), replace the pressure plate. disc is worn, replace it.
7.2 Make sure the co-axial springs are not
1 loose in the hub. See Fig. 9. Springs that
rattle are not necessarily loose; springs
that have any movement are. If any disc
has loose springs, replace it.
1 1 2
02/28/94 1 f250269a
1. Capscrews
Fig. 7
02/28/94 f250271a
1. Hub
2. Co-Axial Spring
Fig. 9
7.3 Make sure the splines in the hub are not

damaged. Make sure the hub is fastened
to the disc. Replace any disc that is dam-
aged.
WARNING
A
turer.
7.4 Using a cleaning solvent with a non-
01/05/96 f250270a petroleum base, remove grease and oil
A. Pressure plate runout must not be more than 0.002 from the discs. If the grease and oil can-
inch (0.05 mm). not be removed, replace the disc.
7.5 Ceramic linings are fastened to the disc
Fig. 8 with rivets. On clutches with ceramic lin-
7. Inspect the clutch discs. ings, replace the disc if the lining is loose,

Clutch Inspection
damaged, or worn to the top of the rivets. the center plate. Go on to the next step
See Fig. 10. and inspect the center plate.
Organic linings are integrally molded onto On 15-1/2 inch clutches, inspect the tabs
the disc. Using a micrometer, measure the on the outer edge of the center plate.
thickness of the organic lining on the disc. See Fig. 13. If the tabs are worn or dam-
Replace the disc if the organic lining is aged, replace the center plate. Go on to
loose, damaged, or less than 0.283 inch the next step and inspect the center plate.
(7.2 mm) thick. See Fig. 11.
A
2
A
1
02/28/94 f250272a
A. Replace the ceramic disc if the lining is even with or 08/19/93 f250274a
below the top of the rivet. A. Make sure the slots are not worn or damaged.
1. Rivet
2. Lining Fig. 12
Fig. 10
f250275a
A
A. Make sure the tabs are not worn or damaged.
02/28/94 f250273a
A. Minimum thickness: 0.283 inch (7.2 mm). Fig. 13
8.2 Inspect the center plate for wear or dam-

Fig. 11
age. If the plate is cracked, replace it.
8. Inspect the center plate. Heat marks are normal, and can usually
be removed with an emery cloth. If the
8.1 On 14-inch clutches, check the slots for heat marks cannot be removed, replace
the drive pins in the center plate. the center plate.
See Fig. 12. If the slots are worn, replace

Clutch Inspection
8.3 Using a micrometer or a caliper, measure

the thickness of the center plate.
Refer to Table 1 for minimum thickness
by clutch type. If the center plate mea-
sures less than the minimum thickness,
replace it. See Fig. 14.
Minimum Thickness
Clutch Type
inches (mm)
14-Inch With Ceramic Linings 0.805 (20.07)
14-Inch With Organic Linings 0.672 (17.27) A
15-1/2 Inch With Ceramic or 02/28/94 f250277a
0.742 (18.84)
Organic Linings
A. The gap must be 0.002 inch (0.05 mm) or less.
Table 1, Minimum Center Plate Thickness
Fig. 15
8.4 Make sure the surface of the center plate center plate. If the reading on the indicator
is more than 0.002 inch (0.05 mm), grind
a new surface on the center plate; if not,
go on to the next step.
02/28/94 f250276a
Fig. 14 A
is flat. Put a straightedge on the surface of
the center plate, making sure it crosses
the center of the plate. See Fig. 15. Using 02/28/94 f250278a
a feeler gauge, measure each gap that A. Runout must be 0.002 inch (0.05 mm) or less.
appears between the straightedge and the
pressure plate. Rotate the straightedge Fig. 16
through at least four positions. If any gap
is more than 0.002 inch (0.05 mm), grind 8.6 If either the runout or the flatness of the
a new surface on the center plate; if not, center plate is more than 0.002 inch (0.05
go on to the next step. mm), grind enough material so that the
plate is flat, but do not go below the mini-
8.5 Measure the runout of the center plate to mum thickness. Refer to the table for mini-
make sure the surfaces are parallel to mum thickness by clutch type. Re-check
each other. See Fig. 16. Put the base of the flatness and runout of the center plate.
the dial indicator inside the center of the
plate. Put the tip of the dial indicator on 9. Although the pilot bearing must be replaced
the surface of the plate. Set the dial indi- whenever the clutch is removed, inspect the old
cator to zero. Rotate the dial indicator one pilot bearing for wear or damage. See Fig. 17. If
complete turn around the surface of the worn or damaged, correct the cause.

Clutch Inspection
11.2 Remove the setscrew(s) that fasten each

drive pin in the flywheel housing.
See Fig. 18.
02/28/94 f250279a
A. Make sure the pilot bearing is not worn or damaged. 03/01/94 f250280a
1. Setscrew
Fig. 17
10. Inspect the surface of the flywheel for wear or Fig. 18

damage. If the flywheel is cracked, replace it.
Heat marks are normal, and can usually be re- WARNING
moved with an emery cloth. Some wear or dam-
age can be removed by grinding a new surface WARNING: Wear eye protection. Do not hit steel
on the flywheel. If wear or damage on the sur- parts with a steel hammer. Parts can break and
face of the flywheel cannot be removed, replace cause injury.
the flywheel.
11.3 Using a hammer and punch, remove the
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service drive pins from the flywheel housing.
manual for flywheel service procedures. See Fig. 19.
IMPORTANT: If the flywheel surface is reground, 11.4 Replace any worn or damaged drive pins.
make sure there is still adequate thickness for
11.5 Put each new drive pin in the flywheel so
the capscrews to hold the clutch to the flywheel. that the round sides of the head are to-
The threads for these capscrews are below the ward the top and bottom of the flywheel.
surface of some flywheels, requiring the use of Make sure that the flat sides of the pin are
capscrews with a shoulder. If some of the fly- at a right angle to the top of the flywheel
wheel surface is removed, the capscrews may face. See Fig. 20.
not hold. Use new capscrews that are the cor- 11.6 Using a drive-pin installation tool and a
rect length. brass hammer, install the drive pins in the
11. On 14-inch clutches, inspect the drive pins in the flywheel. See Fig. 21.
flywheel housing.
If a drive-pin tool is not available, use a
11.1 Remove the flywheel. Refer to the engine C-clamp to install the drive pins in the fly-
manufacturer’s service manual for instruc- wheel.
tions.

Clutch Inspection
1 1
02/28/94 f250281a
1. Drive Pin
Fig. 19
02/28/94 f250283a
1. Drive Pin Installation Tool
Fig. 21
1
A
03/01/94 f250282a
A. The drive pin must be square to the flywheel.
Fig. 20
02/28/94 f250284a
Press each pin into the flywheel until the
head of the pin bottoms in the bore. 1. C-Clamp
See Fig. 22.
Fig. 22
11.7 Making sure the slots in the center plate
are installed over the drive pins, install the 11.8 Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance
center plate in the flywheel. Rotate the between the slot and the opposite side of
plate so that one side of each slot touches each drive pin. See Fig. 23. The minimum
a drive pin. clearance between the drive pin and the
slot is 0.006 inch (0.152 mm). If the clear-

Clutch Inspection
ance is less than specified, remove the • crankshaft end play

drive pin and install it again. Do not file • runout of the outer surface of the flywheel
the drive pins or the slots in the center housing
plate.
• runout of the inside of the flywheel housing
WARNING
turer.
15. Clean the disassembled parts.
15.1 Using a cleaning solvent or kerosene,
clean all ground or polished parts or sur-
faces.
A
CAUTION
03/01/94 f250285a CAUTION: Do not clean ground or polished parts
A. Drive pin-to-center plate minimum clearance: 0.006
in a hot solution tank or with water, steam, or al-
inch (0.152 mm). kaline solutions. These solutions will cause the
parts to corrode.
Fig. 23 15.2 Rough parts can be cleaned with the
ground or polished parts. The rough parts
11.9 Install and tighten the setscrew(s) that fas-
can also be cleaned in hot solution tanks
ten each drive pin in the flywheel housing.
with a weak alkaline solution. The parts
11.10 Install the flywheel housing. Refer to the must remain in the tank until they are
engine manufacturer’s service manual for completely cleaned and heated.
instructions.
15.3 Dry the parts with clean paper, shop tow-
12. Inspect the ring gear teeth on the outer surface els, or compressed air immediately after
of the flywheel. If the teeth are worn or dam- cleaning.
aged, replace the ring gear or the flywheel. Refer
16. Apply lubricant to the cleaned and dried parts
to the engine manufacturer’s service manual for
that are not damaged and are to be immediately
instructions.
assembled. Do not apply lubricant to the linings.
On 15-1/2 inch clutches, check the tabs on the
If parts are to be stored, apply a special material
outer edge of the flywheel. Replace the flywheel
that prevents corrosion and rust to all surfaces.
if the tabs are worn or damaged.
Do not apply the material to the linings. Store the
13. The flywheel surface must be flat for correct parts inside special paper or other material that
clutch operation. Check the runout of the outer prevents corrosion and rust.
surface of the flywheel. Refer to the engine
manufacturer’s service manual for instructions.
NOTE: In general, maximum runout is 0.0005
inch times the flywheel diameter in inches.
14. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service
manual for instructions and check the following:
• pilot bearing bore runout

Clutch Installation
Installation 1
NOTE: During clutch removal, spacers or

wooden blocks are installed between the re-
lease bearing and the clutch cover to facilitate
removal. Do not remove the spacers or wooden
blocks until after the clutch is installed. The
spacers or blocks make installation of the clutch
easier by holding the clutch components in posi-
tion.
1. Lubricate the bore in the crankshaft for the pilot
bearing with the specified lubricant. Do not use
too much lubricant. Excess lubricant can con-
taminate the discs and cause the clutch to slip.
2. Use the correct size of driver to install the pilot
bearing in the crankshaft bore. See Fig. 1. Refer
to the engine manufacturer’s service manual for 02/28/94 f250243a
instructions.
1. Guide Studs
Fig. 2
1
WARNING
WARNING: Wear gloves when handling anti-rattle
clips. Anti-rattle clips are very sharp, and may
cut your hands.
3.2 Install the anti-rattle clips in the inner bore
of the flywheel housing. See Fig. 3. The
round portion of the holes must face to-
ward the flywheel. Make sure the clips
are spaced evenly around the housing.
3.3 Install the alignment tool in the flywheel
pilot bearing. See Fig. 4.
3.4 Install the front disc over the alignment
tool. See Fig. 4. Make sure the words
FLYWHEEL SIDE on the disc are toward
the flywheel.
02/28/94 f250241a 3.5 Install the center plate in the flywheel
1. Pilot Bearing housing. Make sure the slots in the plate
are installed over the drive pins in the
Fig. 1 housing. See Fig. 3. Make sure facings of
3. Do the following on 14-inch clutches (go to the ceramic clutches are aligned.
next step for 15-1/2 inch clutches): 3.6 Install the rear disc over the alignment
3.1 Install 7/16-inch guide studs in two of the tool. Make sure the words PRESSURE
upper mounting holes for the cover and PLATE SIDE on the disc will be toward
pressure plate assembly. See Fig. 2. the pressure plate. See Fig. 4.

Clutch Installation
4.5 Install the front disc against the center

plate. Make sure the words FLYWHEEL
SIDE on the disc are toward the flywheel.
See Fig. 4. Make sure the facings of ce-
ramic clutches are aligned.
4.6 Install the alignment tool through the as-
sembly. Rotate the discs so that the
splines in the hub are aligned with the
splines on the tool. See Fig. 4.
WARNING
WARNING: Tilt the front of the alignment tool up
02/28/94
1 f250090a
when the clutch assembly is installed. If the tool
is not tilted up, components will fall off the tool,
1. Anti-Rattle Clips
causing personal injury and component damage.
Fig. 3 4.7 Using a lifting device, lift the clutch as-
3.7 Install the pressure plate and cover assembly on to the guide studs. See Fig. 5.
sembly over the alignment tool and on to Make sure the alignment tool is installed
the guide studs. in the flywheel pilot bearing.
Skip the step on installing 15-1/2 inch 4.8 Install the clutch assembly against the
clutches, and go on. flywheel. remove the lifting device.
4. Do the following on 15-1/2 inch clutches: 5. Install and hand-tighten the capscrews that fas-
ten the clutch to the flywheel.
4.1 Install 3/8-inch guide studs in two of the
upper mounting holes for the cover and 6. Remove the guide studs. Install and hand-tighten
pressure plate assembly. See Fig. 2. the remaining capscrews.
NOTE: When the capscrews are tightened, the
WARNING wooden blocks or spacers will fall from between
the release bearing and the cover.
WARNING: The pressure plate and cover assem-
bly is heavy and should be installed only with a 7. Tighten the capscrews in the pattern
lifting device. If the assembly is lifted improperly shown in Fig. 6. Refer to the torque table in
or dropped, it could cause serious physical in- Specifications 400 for torque values.
jury. 8. Remove the alignment tool (or the input shaft
4.2 Connect a lifting device to the pressure used as an alignment tool).
plate and clutch cover assembly. 9. If used, install the clutch brake on the transmis-
See Fig. 5. sion input shaft. Make sure the tabs on the
4.3 Install the rear disc in the pressure plate clutch brake engage the slots on the input shaft.
and cover assembly. Make sure the See Fig. 7.
words PRESSURE PLATE SIDE on the 10. Install the transmission. Follow the procedures in
disc are toward the pressure plate. the transmission group of this manual.
See Fig. 4.
4.4 Install the center plate over the disc in the
pressure plate and clutch cover assembly.
Make sure the tabs on the plate are in
the slots on the cover.

Clutch Installation
4 5
1
B
02/28/94 f250091a
A. Markings must be toward the flywheel.
B. Markings must be toward the pressure plate.
1. Cover 4. Center Plate
2. Alignment Tool 5. Rear Clutch Disc
3. Front Clutch Disc
Fig. 4

Clutch Installation
1
1
02/28/94 f250257a
1. Guide Studs
2. 15-1/2 Inch Clutch Assembly 01/02/96 f250247a
3. Lifting Device
1. Clutch Brake
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
5 1
4 7
8 3
2 6
02/28/94 f250092a
Fig. 6, Clutch Housing Torque Sequence

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Tables tional problems. Before troubleshooting the

clutch, make sure that:
Troubleshooting—Functional • the engine is operating correctly
Problems • the engine mounts are in good condition
NOTE: Problem entries in the troubleshooting • the driveline angles of the engine, transmis-
tables in this subject refer to functional or opera- sion, driveshaft, and rear axle are correct
Problem—The Clutch Does Not Disengage Completely

The clutch linkage and release bearing Adjust the clutch linkage and release bearing.
need adjustment.
Lubricate the linkage. Make sure the linkage linkage is not loose. If the
The linkage is worn or damaged.
condition persists, replace the linkage.
Lubricate the release bearing. If the condition persists, replace the release
The release bearing is worn or damaged.
bearing.
The input shaft splines are worn or Replace the input shaft.
damaged.
Tighten the fasteners to the specified torque. If necessary, replace the
The clutch housing is loose.
fasteners.
The pressure plate is worn or damaged. Replace the pressure plate and cover assembly.
The center plate is worn or damaged. Replace the center plate.
14–inch clutch: Inspect the drive pins in the flywheel and the slots in the
center plate. Service as needed.
The center plate binds.
15–1/2 inch clutch: Inspect the tabs on the center plate and the slots in the
cover. Service as needed.
Damaged clutch disc hub(s). Replace the clutch discs.
The linings are worn beyond specification. Replace the clutch discs.
The linings are damaged. Replace the clutch.
Clean the linings. If the oil or grease cannot be removed, replace the clutch
Oil or grease on the linings.
discs.
A clutch with incorrect lining for the vehicle Install a clutch with the correct type of lining.
application is installed.
The pilot bearing is damaged. Replace the pilot bearing.
Problem—Clutch Pedal Hard to Operate

Damaged bosses on the release bearing Replace the bearing assembly. Make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly.
assembly.
The clutch linkage is worn or damaged. Lubricate the linkage. If the condition still exists, replace the linkage.
The pressure plate and cover assembly Replace the pressure plate and cover assembly.
components are worn or damaged.

Troubleshooting

Lubricate the cross shaft. If the condition persists, replace the cross shaft and
The clutch cross shaft binds.
bushings as required.

The driver keeps his foot on the clutch Use correct driving procedures.
pedal.
The clutch linkage or release bearing need Adjust the clutch linkage or release bearing.
adjustment.
Pressure plate and cover assembly Replace the pressure plate and cover assembly.
components are worn or damaged.
Linings are worn or damaged. Replace the clutch discs.
discs.
A clutch with incorrect lining for the vehicle Install a clutch with the correct type of lining.
application is installed.
Service the flywheel as needed. For instructions, refer to the engine
The flywheel is worn or damaged.
manufacturer’s service manual.
Problem—The Clutch is Noisy

The clutch linkage or release bearing need Adjust the clutch linkage or release bearing.
adjustment.
The linkage is worn or damaged. Lubricate the linkage. If the condition persists, replace the linkage.
Lubricate the release bearing. If the condition persists, replace the release
The release bearing is worn or damaged.
bearing..
The clutch housing is worn or damaged. Replace the clutch housing.
The clutch housing is loose.
fasteners.
The hub is damaged, or the co-axial
Replace the clutch discs.
spring(s) are broken in the clutch disc.
Linings are worn below specified Replace the clutch discs.
dimensions.
Linings are damaged. Replace the clutch discs.
discs.
The pilot bearing is damaged. Replace the pilot bearing.

The input shaft splines are damaged. Replace the input shaft.

Troubleshooting

Remove the pressure plate and cover assembly. Check their balance and
The pressure plate and cover assembly
install them. If the problem persists, replace the pressure plate and cover
are out of balance.
assembly.
The splines are damaged in the clutch Replace the clutch discs.
disc hub(s).
The flywheel is loose. fasteners. Check the flywheel mounting surface for damage. If necessary,
replace the flywheel.
Troubleshooting—Component
Problems
NOTE: Problem entries in the troubleshooting
tables in this subject refer to damage to compo-
nents.
Problem—Broken Tabs on the Clutch Brake

Inspect the clutch disc hubs; check the installation of the clutch. Make sure
Vibration.
dampened discs are used.
The clutch linkage is incorrectly adjusted. Adjust the clutch linkage. Also, check the installation of the clutch.
The driver used the clutch brake while the Use correct driving technique.
vehicle is moving.
Problem—Worn or Damaged Release Bearing Housing

The driver keeps his foot on the pedal. Use correct driving technique.
Problem—Worn Bosses on the Release Bearing Housing

The linkage is damaged or out of Lubricate and adjust the linkage. Inspect the linkage for wear or damage.
adjustment.
Lubricate the release yoke shaft. If the yoke does not move freely, replace the
The release yoke is binding.
shaft and yoke assembly.
The free travel is out of adjustment. Adjust the free travel to specification.
Problem—Worn or Damaged Input Shaft Splines

Make sure the flywheel housing and the clutch housing are aligned to
The transmission is not aligned.
specification.
The transmission is not installed correctly. Install the transmission correctly.

Troubleshooting

The clutch disc hubs are damaged. Replace the clutch discs.
The pilot bearing is worn or damaged. Replace the pilot bearing.
Engine vibration. Make sure dampened discs are used.
Problem—Pressure Plate Cracked or Damaged by Heat

The driver engages the clutch while Use correct driving techniques.
coasting.
The driver uses the clutch as a brake. Use correct driving techniques.
The clutch free travel is not adjusted Adjust the free travel to specifications.
correctly.
Clean the clutch discs. If the oil or grease cannot be removed, replace the
There is oil or grease on the clutch linings.
clutch discs. Repair the cause of the grease or oil.
The diaphragm spring is worn or Replace the pressure plate and the cover assembly.
damaged.
The driver slips the clutch excessively Use correct driving techniques.
during engagement.
Problem—Grooves Worn in the Pressure Plate

The clutch discs are worn or damaged. Replace the clutch discs. If damaged, replace the center plate and flywheel.
Problem—The Clutch Disc Hub is Warped

The transmission was not installed Replace the clutch discs. Install the transmission correctly.
correctly.
Problem—The Hub Separates From the Clutch Disc

Excessive engine vibration. Repair the engine.
The transmission was not installed Install the transmission correctly.
correctly.
The clutch housing is loose. Tighten the clutch housing to the specified torque.
The driver engages the clutch while the Use correct driving techniques.
vehicle is coasting.
Shock loading. Use correct driving techniques.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Heat Damage to the Clutch Disc

The driver keeps his foot on the clutch Use correct driving techniques.
pedal or slips the clutch.
The clutch does not engage or disengage See "Troubleshooting—Functional Problems: Clutch Does Not Disengage
completely. Completely."
The free travel is not adjusted correctly. Adjust the free travel.
The diaphragm spring is worn or Replace the pressure plate and cover assembly.
damaged.
Clean the clutch discs. If the oil or grease cannot be removed, replace the
There is oil or grease on the clutch linings.
clutch discs. Repair the cause of the grease or oil.
Problem—The Linings Separate From the Disc

The linings are worn below the specified Replace the clutch discs.
dimension.
The driver allows the vehicle to coast Use correct driving techniques.
downhill with the transmission in gear and
the clutch pedal depressed.
Problem—Heat Damage to the Clutch Disc

The driver does not start the vehicle in the Use correct driving techniques.
correct gear.
The driver engages the clutch while the Use correct driving techniques.
vehicle is coasting.
14–inch clutch: The drive pins on the Make sure the drive pins are correctly installed. Service the drive pins as
flywheel housing are worn or damaged. needed.
15–1/2 inch clutch: The tabs on the center Replace the pressure plate and cover assembly.
plate are binding in the clutch cover.
See "Troubleshooting—Functional Problems: Clutch Does Not Disengage
The clutch does not release.
Completely."

Specifications
Description 14-Inch Diameter Clutch 15-1/2-Inch Diameter Clutch

Actuation Type Pull
Minimum Clutch Housing Size for
Number 2
Mounting (SAE)
Pressure Plate Actuation Single Diaphragm Spring
2800 lbf (12 454 N) 2800 lbf (12 454 N
Clamp Load 3200 lbf (14 234 N) 3200 lbf (14 234 N)
— 3600 lbf (16 013 N)
Adjustment Manual
Facing Size 13.78 x 7.48 in (350 x 190 mm) 15.35 x 8.66 in (390 x 220 mm)
Lining Availability Ceramic & Organic (non-asbestos)
Lining-to-Disc Fastener:
Ceramic Rivet
Organic Integrally Molded to Plate
Table 1, General Specifications
Description Specification
Pressure Plate Runout 0.000 to 0.002 inch (0.00 to 0.05 mm)
Pressure Plate Flatness 0.002 to 0.004 inch (0.05 to 0.10 mm)
Maximum Allowable Wear 0.015 inch (0.38 mm)
Table 2, Pressure Plate Specifications for 14-Inch and 15-1/2 Inch Clutches

Center Plate Runout 0.000 to 0.002 inch (0.00 to 0.05 mm)
Center Plate Flatness 0.000 to 0.002 inch (0.00 to 0.05 mm)
Center Plate Minimum Thickness:
Ceramic Linings 0.805 inch (20.07 mm) 0.742 inch (18.84 mm)
Organic Linings 0.672 inch (17.27 mm)
Center Plate Drive Drive Pin Tabs on Center Plate in Clutch Cover
Clearance Between Drive Pin and
0.006 inch (0.152 mm) —
Center Plate
Table 3, Center Plate Specifications

Number of Splines on Disc 10
Spline Diameter 1.75 or 2.00 inch (44.5 or 51.0 mm) 2.00 inch (51.0 mm)

Specifications

Minimum Disc Thickness:
Ceramic linings To Top of Rivet
Organic linings 0.283 inch (7.2 mm)
Table 4, Clutch Disc Specifications
Description Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)

Adjusting Ring Lock Capscrew 25 to 30 lbf·ft (34 to 40 N·m)
Capscrew Between Cover Assembly and Flywheel:
14-Inch Clutches 25 to 30 lbf·ft (34 to 40 N·m)
15-1/2 Inch Clutches 45 to 50 lbf·ft (62 to 67 N·m)
Initial Adjustment Wear Limit *

Vehicle Model
inches (mm) inches (mm)
COE
3/4 (19) at the stop 1/2 (13)
Conventional
* Adjust the clutch internally if the free-travel is less than the wear limit.
Table 6, Clutch Pedal Free-Travel Specifications

Eaton Valeo Clutches 25.02
General Information
General Information (See Fig. 1)
09/10/93 f250236a
Fig. 1, Eaton Valeo Clutch

Eaton Valeo clutches installed in Freightliner heavy-
duty vehicles are available in 14-inch, 16-inch, and
17-inch models. They are single-plate, diaphragm
spring, pull-type clutches. A dampened driven disc is
standard. The lining is a "cerametallic" material.
The 17-inch clutch is available for both flat and pot-
type flywheel designs.
See "Specifications, 400" for additional information.

Clutch Adjustments
Special Tools
Special Tools
Tool Description Manufacturer Part Number
Adjustable Hook Spaner Wrench Kent-Moore J4749
f580201
Clutch Adjustments and the clutch brake. See Fig. 2 One end of the
tool has green tape on it and is 0.50 inch (12.7
Eaton Valeo clutches require two adjustments: re- mm) in diameter; the other end has blue tape
lease bearing clearance (this distance must be 1/2 to on it and is 0.56 inch (14.3 mm) in diameter.
9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm) and clutch free-travel 1. If using tool A02–12419 to check the distance
(this distance must be 0.105 to 0.145 inch (2.7 to 3.7 between the release bearing and the clutch
mm). See Fig. 1. brake, position the tool so that the legs straddle
the transmission input shaft. Check the gap with
both ends of the tool as follows:
3
2
4 A B
A B
6 5 03/26/96 f580133
1 B A. 0.50 inch (12.7 mm)
B. 0.56 inch (14.3 mm)
A Fig. 2, Inspection Tool A02-12419

09/10/93 f250250a 1.1 Insert the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end.
A. 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm) With Clutch If it fits loosely the gap is too wide and
Brake adjustment is needed. Go to the next
B. 0.105–0.145 inch (2.7–3.7 mm) step.
1. Locknut Ring 4. Bearing Cover
2. Release Bearing 5. Bearing Pad 1.2 If the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end can’t
Coupler 6. Adjuster Ring be inserted in the gap, then try to insert
3. Release Yoke the green 0.50-inch (12.7-mm) end. If the
green end of the tool fits, snug or loose,
Fig. 1, Clutch Adjustment Measurements then no adjustment is needed.
IMPORTANT: An inspection tool A02–12419 1.3 If the green end of the tool can’t be in-
(available through the PDCs) can be used to serted in the gap, adjustment is needed.
check the distance between the release bearing Go to the next step.

25.02 Eaton Valeo Clutches
Clutch Adjustments
2. Disconnect the external linkage to allow free 5.2 If the blue 0.145-inch (3.7-mm) end can’t
movement of the release yoke. be inserted in the gap, then try to insert
the green 0.105-inch (2.7-mm) end. If the
3. Loosen the locknut ring and rotate the sleeve green end of the tool fits, snug or loose,
with the adjuster ring to the specified release then no adjustment is needed.
bearing clearance.
5.3 If the green end of the tool can’t be in-
4. Tighten the locknut ring against the release bear- serted in the gap, adjustment is needed.
ing coupler. Connect the external linkage, then per-
IMPORTANT: An inspection tool A02–12254 form a clutch linkage adjustment. For in-
(available through the PDCs) can be used to structions, see Section 25.03.
check the distance between the release bearing
and the release fork (free travel). See Fig. 3.
The legs on one end of the tool have green
tape on them and are 0.105 inch (2.7 mm) thick;
the legs on the other end have blue tape on
them and are 0.145 inch (3.7 mm) thick.
5. If using tool A02–12254 to check the distance
between the release bearing and the release
fork, position the tool so it straddles the fork to
ensure that there won’t be any misalignment.
Check the distance with both ends of the tool as
follows:
A B
03/26/96 f580132
A. 0.105 inch (2.7 mm)

B. 0.145 inch (3.7 mm)
Fig. 3, Inspection Tool A02-12254

5.1 Insert the blue 0.145-inch (3.7-mm) end.
If it fits loosely the gap is too wide and
adjustment is needed. Connect the exter-
nal linkage, then go to the section on
clutch linkage adjustment in this group.

Clutch Removal
Clutch Removal B
1. Remove the transmission. Follow the procedures A
in the transmission section of this manual.
A
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not let the transmission drop, and
do not let the transmission hang unsupported by
the input shaft in the pilot bearing. Taking these
precautions will prevent damage to the clutch
assembly and the pilot bearing.
2. Remove the clutch brake (if equipped) from the
transmission input shaft.
A
3. To facilitate clutch removal and installation, Eaton
Valeo clutches employ four U-clips to hold the
pressure plate toward the clutch. Install the four A
U-clips. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. 09/10/93 f250265
A. Install U-clips here.
B B. Install guide pins here.
A
Fig. 2, 17-Inch Clutches
5. Remove the top two capscrews from the pres-
A sure plate assembly as indicated in Fig. 1 and
Fig. 2. Install guide pins in the two holes. If
guide pins are not available, they may be made
by removing the heads from two capscrews.
6. Remove the remaining capscrews which secure
the cover assembly to the flywheel.
WARNING
WARNING: The cover assembly is heavy and
A should be removed only with a lifting device. If
the assembly is lifted improperly or dropped, it
A could cause serious physical injury.
09/10/93 f250093a
A. Install U-clips here. 7. Lift the pressure plate, release bearing, and
B. Install guide pins here. clutch assembly over the alignment tool and
guide pins.
Fig. 1, 14-Inch and 16-Inch Clutches
8. Whenever the clutch assembly is serviced or the
4. Install a clutch alignment tool through the clutch engine is removed, the pilot bearing in the fly-
and into the flywheel pilot bearing to support the wheel should be removed and replaced. Use an
clutch assembly during removal. appropriate internal puller and a slide hammer to
remove the pilot bearing. Install the new pilot
NOTE: If an alignment tool is not available, use bearing with an appropriate driver.
an input shaft from a manual transmission. Re-
move the gear from the end of the input shaft.

Clutch Inspection
Clutch Inspection
1. Remove the clutch from the vehicle. Re-
fer to Subject 110 for instructions.
2. Inspect the release fork, the cross shaft, and the
shaft bushings. Inspect the transmission input
shaft splines. Minor scratches may be removed
with emery cloth. Replace any damaged or ex-
cessively worn parts.
3. Inspect the flywheel for heat spots, warpage,
scoring, or cracks around the bolt holes. If nec-
essary, machine or replace the flywheel.
4. Inspect the pressure plate friction surface for
wear or damage. If the plate is cracked, replace
it. Heat marks are normally found on a pressure
plate after operation. These marks can usually
be removed with emery cloth. If you cannot re-
move heat marks with emery cloth, replace the
pressure plate.
5. Inspect the pilot bearing. Although the pilot bear-
ing should be replaced whenever the clutch is
removed, any excessive wear or damage to the
pilot bearing could indicate other problems which
should be remedied.
6. Inspect the clutch release linkage, the shafts,
and the yoke for wear or binding. Make any nec-
essary repairs.
7. If a clutch brake is installed, inspect the clutch
brake wear surface on the transmission. Replace
the transmission front bearing cover if necessary.

Installation
Clutch Installation taining ring is fully seated in its groove.

See Fig. 2.
NOTE: If you are installing components which
have been in operation, do the steps in Sub-
ject 120 before installing the clutch.
1. Lubricate the bore in the crankshaft for the pilot
bearing with the specified lubricant. Do not over-
lubricate. Excess lubricant can contaminate the A
disc and cause the clutch to slip.
Using an appropriate driver, install the pilot bear-
ing. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service
2. Install guide pins in the top two bolt holes of the
flywheel. If guide pins are not available, make
them by removing the heads from two cap-
screws.
3. If necessary, install the release bearing assembly
on the pressure plate. See Fig. 1 for assembly.
3 10/06/95 f250254a
A. Make sure the retaining ring is fully seated in the
groove.
1 2 4 4 5 6
Fig. 2
4. Position the clutch alignment tool in the clutch
disc so the side of the disc marked FLYWHEEL
SIDE will face the flywheel. Insert the alignment
tool into the pilot bearing.
10/06/95 f250253a WARNING

1. Wire Retaining Ring WARNING: The cover assembly is heavy and
2. Fulcrum Ring
3. Pressure Plate Cover Assembly
should be installed only with a lifting device. If
4. Belleville Spring Washer the assembly is lifted improperly or dropped, it
5. Shim could cause serious injury.
6. Release Bearing Assembly 5. Install the pressure plate assembly over the
Fig. 1 alignment tool and the guide pins. See Fig. 3 or
Fig. 4.
3.1 Be sure that the Belleville spring fingers
are toward the shim, and that the 6. Install the mounting capscrews finger-tight in the
rounded face of the fulcrum ring is toward cover assembly.
the diaphragm fingers of the pressure For 16-inch clutches, and 17-inch clutches with
plate. flat flywheels, be sure the pressure plate cover
3.2 Install the fulcrum ring and the wire re- fits inside the raised step of the flywheel.
taining ring on the end of the release Refer to the detail in Fig. 3.
bearing coupler. Be sure that the wire re- For 17-inch clutches with pot-type flywheels, be
sure the pressure plate cover fits over the two

Installation
C
3 3
B
4
A 4
2
2
1 8 5 6
5 6
8
7 1
09/10/93 f250255 7
A. Flywheel 09/10/93 f250256
B. Raised Step 1. Flywheel 6. Capscrew
C. Pressure Plate Assembly 2. Dowel Pin 7. Washer
1. Flywheel 6. Capscrew 3. Guide Pin 8. Clutch Disc
2. Pilot Bearing 7. Washer 4. Alignment Tool
3. Guide Pin 8. Clutch Disc 5. Pressure Plate
4. Alignment Tool Assembly
5. Pressure Plate
Assembly Fig. 4, Clutch Assembly with Pot-Type Flywheel (17-
Inch Only)
Fig. 3, Clutch Assembly with Flat Flywheel
small dowel pins on the front flange of the fly- A 2 7
wheel. See Fig. 4, Ref. 2.
Remove the two guide pins, and install the re-
A
maining two capscrews.
IMPORTANT: Use hardened washers and grade 5
8 capscrews. Be sure the capscrews are the
correct length. Capscrews which are too short 4
will strip; capscrews which are too long will
damage the flywheel. 3
7. Tighten the capscrews one turn at a time until 6
they are snug. Then, tighten the capscrews as
specified below. Follow the tightening sequence
in Fig. 5 and Fig. 6. A
• 14-Inch Clutches: 35 to 40 lbf·ft (47 to 54
N·m) 8
1 A
10/06/95 f250094a
• 16-Inch and 17-Inch Clutches: 40 to 45 A. U-Clip
lbf·ft (54 to 61 N·m)
Fig. 5, 14-Inch and 16-Inch Clutch
8. Remove the four wire U-clips ( Fig. 5 and
Fig. 6). Remove the clutch alignment tool.

Installation
2 5
A 9
11
7 4
3
8
12
A
10 A
6 1
10/20/2000
10/06/95 f250266
A. U-Clip
Fig. 6, 17-Inch Clutch

9. Install the clutch brake (if equipped) on the trans-
mission shaft.
10. Install the transmission. Follow the procedures in
the transmission group of this manual.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not let the transmission drop, and
do not let the transmission hang unsupported by
the input shaft in the pilot bearing bore in the fly-
wheel. Taking these precautions will prevent
damage to the clutch assembly and the pilot
bearing. If excessive force is required to install
the transmission into the flywheel housing, in-
vestigate the cause and make necessary correc-
tions.

Specifications
Model Nomenclature
Designation Definition
EV Eaton Valeo
115 x 10 = Maximum torque capacity in lbf·ft
16 Clutch size in inches
Table 1, Model Nomenclature
Weight and Torque Ratings

Total Weight: Torque Rating:
Model Housing Flywheel
lbs (kg) lbf·ft (N·m)
14-Inch
EV06514 62 (28) 650 (881)
EV08814 62 (28) 880 (1193) SAE #2 14-Inch Flat
EV10514 66 (30) 1050 (1424)
16-Inch
EV11516 87 (39) 1150 (1559)
EV12516 91 (41) 1695 (1250) SAE #2 16-Inch Flat
EV14016 91 (41) 1400 (1898)
Table 2, Weight and Torque Ratings
Cover Assembly Torque Values

Torque:
Description Clutch
lbf·ft (N·m)
14-Inch 35–40 (47–54)
Cover Assembly Capscrews (grade 8)
16-Inch 40–45 (54–61)
Table 3, Cover Assembly Torque Values
Adjustment Values
Adjustment:
Description
mm (inch)
Release Yoke Finger to Bearing Pad Clearance 1/8 (3)
Clutch Pedal Free Travel (minimum) 3/4 (19)
Release Travel Clearance:
1/2 (13)
Non-Synchronized Transmission With Clutch Brake
Table 4, Adjustment Values

Specifications
Special Tools
Tool Description Manufacturer Part Number
Kent-Moore Tools
Kent-Moore Tool Division
Adjustable Hook Spaner Wrench J4749
28784 Little Mack
f580201
Roseville, MI 48066

Clutch Linkage 25.03
General Description
General Description
The clutch linkage transfers the motion of the clutch
pedal to the clutch release bearing. The clutch link-
age may be adjusted to maintain clutch pedal free-
play.
Free-play in the clutch pedal is required to ensure
that the release bearing does not run against the fin-
gers of the release yoke. There should not be any
play or looseness in the connections and joints of the
clutch linkage.
IMPORTANT: Release bearing and release fork

clearance are internal clutch adjustments, and
can not be adjusted by adjusting the clutch link-
age. Refer elsewhere in this group for internal
clutch adjustments, or to the clutch manufactur-
er’s service literature.
On vehicles with right-hand drive (RH DR), there is
an additional crossover linkage mounted on two
crossover shaft bearings, one on the left side of the
cab, one on the right side. The crossover linkage can
be removed and installed without affecting the clutch
adjustment.

Clutch Linkage Adjustment
FLD Clutch Linkage 9. To obtain a free-travel measurement of 1/8 inch

(3.2 mm) between the release yoke and the re-
Adjustment lease bearing, turn the clutch rod end until the
center of the rod-end hole is aligned with the
IMPORTANT: Observe the following points be- center of the hole in the upper clutch lever.
fore beginning clutch linkage adjustment: NOTE: Each complete turn of the rod end (or
• Be sure internal clutch adjustments are correct rod) equals about 1/32 inch (1 mm) movement.
before making adjustments to the clutch link- After lengthening the linkage, at least 3/8 inch
age. See the appropriate section in this (9.5 mm) of thread must remain engaged in
manual. each end of the rod.
• Adjust clutch linkage only after repair or re- 10. After adjusting the length, connect the clutch rod
placement of the clutch or clutch linkage com- to the upper clutch lever as follows:
ponents.
On FLD Conventionals with rubber washers (see
• Do not attempt to adjust the linkage to com-
Fig. 2), install the flatwashers, rubber washers,
pensate for component wear.
fender washers, capscrew, and nut. Tighten the
• If equipped with cab air-suspension, be sure nut until the distance between the upper clutch
the air bags are properly inflated. If the air lever and each fender washer is 5/32 inch (4.0
bags are not inflated, the clutch linkage can’t mm).
be adjusted correctly.
On FLD Conventionals without rubber washers
1. Tilt the hood. (see Fig. 4), install the washers, capscrew, and
2. Remove the clutch inspection cover from the bot- nut. Tighten the nut 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m).
tom of the bell housing. Tighten both rod-end jam nuts 30 lbf·ft (40 N·m).
3. Measure the distance between the release yoke Remove the special tool from the clutch pedal
and the release bearing. If this measurement is stop bracket.
1/8 inch (3.2 mm), no further work is needed. If
the measurement is incorrect, do all of the re- 11. Install the inspection cover on the bottom of the
maining steps. bell housing.
4. Be sure the clutch pedal is all the way up,

against the upper stop. FLA and FLB Clutch Linkage
5. Loosen the rod-end jam nuts at the upper end of Adjustment
the threaded adjusting rod.
IMPORTANT: Observe the following points be-
6. Disconnect the clutch rod from the lower end of fore beginning clutch linkage adjustment:
the pedal shaft. See Fig. 1. If the clutch rod is
fastened to the pedal shaft with rubber washers, • Be sure internal clutch adjustments are correct
note their position for later installation. See before making adjustments to the clutch link-
Fig. 2. age. See the appropriate section in this
manual.
IMPORTANT: A special tool is used to adjust the
clutch linkage. The special tool is a 3/4-inch (19- • Adjust clutch linkage only after repair or re-
placement of the clutch or clutch linkage com-
mm) spacer and may be ordered from the PDCs
ponents.
under part number 02–12282–000.
• Do not attempt to adjust the linkage to com-
7. Place the special tool (part number 02–12282– pensate for component wear.
000) between the clutch pedal stop bracket and
the rubber stop. See Fig. 3. • Be sure the cab is down and locked in position
to adjust the clutch linkage.
8. Pull the clutch rod forward until it stops (release
yoke contacts the release bearing).

25.03 Clutch Linkage
1
3
2 7
5
10 10
3 4 12
7
4
5
6
11
8
9
08/01/95 f250123
1. Clutch Pedal 5. Rod-End Jam Nut 9. Clutch Release Shaft
2. Clutch Pedal Shaft 6. Threaded Adjusting Rod 10. Flatwasher
3. Rod End 7. Clutch Rod 11. Spacer
4. Locknut 8. Clutch Release Lever 12. Capscrew
Fig. 1, FLD Conventional Clutch Linkage

• If equipped with cab air-suspension, be sure
the air bags are properly inflated. If the air WARNING
bags are not inflated, the clutch linkage can’t
be adjusted correctly. If the clutch linkage needs adjustment, or is ad-
justed incorrectly on vehicles equipped with a
cab air suspension, the clutch could engage as
air pressure builds after the engine is started.

1 2 2
2
06/22/95 f250146a
3 4 3 Example shown; installations vary
01/10/94 f250145a
1. Clutch Rod 2. Pedal Shaft
Example shown; installations vary
Fig. 4, FLD Conventional Clutch Linkage Without
NOTE: Tighten the capscrew until the distance between Rubber Washers
the pedal shaft and each fender washer is 5/32 inch
(4.0 mm) wide. Always start the vehicle with the transmission in
1. Clutch Rod 3. Fender Washer neutral. After the cab air suspension (if equipped)
2. Rubber Washers 4. Pedal Shaft is correctly inflated, shut down the engine and
adjust the clutch linkage. Failure to follow this
Fig. 2, FLD Conventional Clutch Linkage With Rubber procedure on vehicles equipped with a cab air
Washers
suspension could result in clutch engagement as
air pressure builds, possibly resulting in a run-
away vehicle and causing serious personal injury
or property damage.
The clutch bellcrank has two mounting holes for the
horizontal (lower) clutch rod. The mounting hole used
on FLA COEs built before April 1992 depended on
the type of clutch which was installed. Beginning in
April 1992, the horizontal clutch rod was attached to
the lower aft hole for all clutch installations. See
Fig. 5, Ref B. For clutch linkage adjustment on FLA
1 2 COEs built before April 1992, install the lower clutch
rod in the lower aft hole of the bellcrank before be-
ginning the adjustment.
IMPORTANT: The lower clutch rod must be in-
3
stalled in the lower aft hole of the bellcrank for
all COEs. Before adjusting the clutch linkage,
check the location of the lower clutch rod. If the
lower clutch rod is installed in the upper hole,
reposition it in the lower aft hole. This must be
done to ensure correct linkage adjustment.
02/26/94 f250102a
On FLA COEs built before April 1992, the clutch
1. Special Tool bellcrank had a 1/8-inch hole which was used for
2. Rubber Stop clutch linkage adjustment. See Fig. 5. Beginning in
3. Clutch Pedal Stop Bracket April 1992, the 1/8-inch hole for adjustment has been
Fig. 3, Position the Special Tool eliminated, and a special tool (see Fig. 6, Ref. 2) is
used to adjust the clutch linkage. Use this special

3
A
4
3
2
1 2
4
7 mm
6 3
5 2
B 01/10/94 f250288a
This bellcrank was installed on vehicles built from April
01/10/94 C f250096a 1992.
This bellcrank was installed on vehicles built before April 1. Pivot Bracket
1992. 2. Special Tool
A. Check here for a gap. Adjust if necessary. 3. Bellcrank (FLA COE shown)
B. Attach the lower clutch rod here for all clutch 4. Return Spring
installations.
C. The 1/8-inch hole in the bellcrank is no longer Fig. 6, FLA COE Bellcrank (from April 1992)
used for adjustment.
4. Be sure the clutch pedal is all the way up,
1. Rod End against the upper stop.
2. Jam Nut
3. Adjusting Nut 5. Disconnect the lower rod from the bellcrank.
4. Upper Clutch Rod (telescoping rod)
5. Bellcrank (FLA COE shown) IMPORTANT: Do not disconnect the return
6. Lower Clutch Rod (threaded adjusting rod) spring during adjustment.
Fig. 5, FLA COE Bellcrank (pre-April 1992) 6. Place the special tool (part number 02–12282–
000) on the pivot bracket, as shown in Fig. 6.
tool (part number 02–12282–000) for adjustment of The special tool should fit snugly between the
the clutch linkage on all COEs. pivot bracket and the bellcrank.
1. Remove the clutch inspection cover from the bot- 7. Check for a gap between the end of the upper
tom of the bell housing. clutch rod and the adjusting nut. See Fig. 5, Ref.
2. Measure the distance between the release yoke A. If there is a gap, or if the special tool does not
and the release bearing. If this measurement is fit snugly between the pivot bracket and the
1/8 inch (3.2 mm), no further work is needed. If bellcrank, loosen the jam nut (Ref. 2) on the rod
the measurement is incorrect, do all of the re- end. Turn the rod end by hand until there is no
maining steps. gap, and the special tool fits on the pivot bracket
with no pre-load. Tighten the jam nut 14 lbf·ft (19
3. Turn the front wheels to obtain access to the N·m).
clutch linkage through the left front wheel well.
Remove the special tool from the pivot bracket.

8. Position the special tool between the pedal stop

and clutch pedal. See Fig. 3.
9. Pull the lower clutch rod forward until it stops.
The clutch yoke is now resting against the re-
lease bearing.
IMPORTANT: The clutch yoke must be held
against the release bearing during adjustment.
10. If necessary, loosen the jam nut, and adjust the
linkage so that the rod-end lines up with the
lower aft hole of the bellcrank.
NOTE: Each complete turn of the rod equals
about 0.04 inch (1 mm) of movement. After ad-
justing the linkage, at least 3/8-inch (9.5 mm) of
thread must remain engaged in each end of the
rod.
11. Install the rod end in the bellcrank. Tighten the
jam nut 14 lbf·ft (19 N·m). Tighten the rod-end
12. Remove the special tool from the clutch pedal
stop bracket.
13. Install the inspection cover on the bottom of the
bell housing.

Clutch Crossover Linkage Removal and Installation,
FLB RH DR
Removal
1. Chock the tires. 1
2. Tilt the cab.
1 2
3. Disconnect the ball stud on the telescoping
clutch rod from the lever arm on the clutch cross- 2
over shaft (left). Thread the removed fasteners
3
back onto the ball stud for use during installation.
See Fig. 1.
4 2
5
1 2
5
6 09/19/97 f250449
2 1. 3/8–16 Capscrew 4. Crossover Shaft
2. Hardened Flatwasher 5. 3/8–16 Locknut
5 3. Sleeve
3
4 Fig. 2, Crossover Shaft Sleeve
3
09/19/97 f250448
1. Crossover Shaft (left) 4. 3/8–24 Locknut 2
1 4
2. Lever Arm 5. Ball Stud
3. Lockwasher 6. Clutch Rod
Fig. 1, Disconnect the Crossover Shaft

4. Remove the four capscrews on the sleeve that
connects the two parts of the clutch crossover
shaft, left and right. See Fig. 2.
5. Remove the nuts attaching both crossover shaft
bearings to the cab wall. See Fig. 3. Loosen the
eccentric lock collar on the right-side bearing.
09/24/97 f250452
6. Remove the crossover shaft (left) from the ve- 1. 3/8–16 Capscrew 3. Hardened Flatwasher
hicle. See Fig. 4. 2. Bearing 4. 3/8–16 Hexnut
7. Remove the clutch pedal. For instructions, see Fig. 3, Crossover Shaft Bearing
Subject 120.
8. Slide the crossover linkage assembly out of the Installation
cab.
1. If removed, install the right-side bearing on the
9. If necessary to replace the bearing or shaft, re- crossover linkage assembly.
move the right-side bearing from the crossover
linkage assembly. NOTE: Use two persons for the next step, one
inside the cab to install the pedal, the other out-

Clutch Crossover Linkage Removal and Installation,
FLB RH DR
1 1
2 3
4
10
9
8
09/25/97 f250454
1. Crossover Shaft Bearing 5. Steering Column Bracket 8. Overcenter Rod
2. Crossover Shaft (left) 6. Clutch Pedal 9. Crossover Shaft (right)
3. Sleeve 7. Clutch Pedal Arm 10. Eccentric Lock Collar
4. Lube Tube
Fig. 4, Crossover Shaft Removal

side the cab to insert the linkage assembly 6. Install the crossover shaft (left) on the vehicle.
through the cab wall. See Fig. 3.
2. Install the crossover linkage assembly through 7. Install the four capscrews on the sleeve that con-
the cab wall onto the steering column bracket. nects the two parts of the clutch crossover shaft,
left and right. Tighten the 3/8–16 locknuts 26
3. Install the clutch pedal. For instructions, see lbf·ft (36 N·m). See Fig. 2.
Subject 120.
8. Connect the ball stud on the telescoping clutch
IMPORTANT: Install the bearings with the rod to the lever arm on the clutch crossover shaft
grease fitting down. (left). Tighten the 3/8–24 hexnut 30 lbf·ft (40
4. Mount the bearings on the cab wall, using the N·m). See Fig. 1.
fasteners as removed. Tighten the 3/8–16 lock- 9. Lower the cab.
nuts 26 lbf·ft (36 N·m).
5. Tighten the eccentric lock collar firmly against the
right-side bearing.

Clutch Pedal Removal and Installation, FLB RH DR
Removal
1. Remove the dash skirt panel (E-panel).
2. Remove the clutch pedal stop bracket. See 1
Fig. 1.
2
3
4
2 5
09/19/97 f250450
1. Nylon Rod Retainer 4. Overcenter Rod

2. Overcenter Spring 5. 3/8-Inch Shoulder
1 3 3. Spring Retainer Bolt
4 Fig. 2, Remove the Overcenter Spring
5 4
6
3 4
2
09/29/97 f250453
5
1. Steering Column 4. 1/4-Inch Flatwasher 1
Bracket 5. 1/4–20 Capscrew
2. Stop Bracket 6. Clutch Pedal Arm
3. Rubber Stop
Fig. 1, Remove the Clutch Pedal Stop Bracket 6

7
3. Remove the overcenter spring. See Fig. 2.
4. Remove the clutch pedal mounting bolt. See
Fig. 3.
1. Install the pedal onto the crossover shaft. Tighten 1. Crossover Shaft (right)
the 3/8–16 capscrew 26 lbf·ft (36 N·m). 2. Clutch Pedal Arm
3. 3/8–16 Capscrew
2. Install the overcenter bolt and spring. 4. Nylatron Washer
5. Steering Column Bracket
3. Install the clutch pedal stop bracket. Tighten the 6. Hardened Washer
two 1/4–20 capscrews 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm). 7. 3/8–16 Locknut
4. Install the dash skirt panel (E-panel). Fig. 3, Remove the Clutch Pedal Mounting Bolt

Specifications
FLD Clutch Linkage Torque Values

Description Torque
Clutch Linkage Jam Nuts 30 lbf·ft (40 N·m)
Clutch Rod-to-Pedal Shaft * 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m)
* On FLD Conventionals with rubber washers, install the flatwashers, rubber washers, fender washers,
capscrew, and nut. Tighten the nut until the distance between the upper clutch lever and each fender washer
is 5/32 inch (4.0 mm).
Table 1, FLD Clutch Linkage Torque Values
FLA and FLB Clutch Linkage Torque

Values
Description Torque
Clutch Linkage Jam Nuts 14 lbf·ft (19 N·m)
Clutch Rod-to-Bellcrank 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m)
Table 2, FLA and FLB Clutch Linkage Torque Values
FLB Right-Hand Drive Clutch Crossover

Linkage Torque Values
Description Torque
Clutch Pedal Mounting Nut 26 lbf·ft (36 N·m)
Clutch Pedal Stop Bracket Capscrews 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm)
Clutch Rod-to-Crossover Shaft Hexnut 30 lbf·ft (40 N·m)
Crossover Linkage Sleeve Locknuts 26 lbf·ft (36 N·m)
Crossover Shaft Bearing Mounting Nuts 26 lbf·ft (36 N·m)
Table 3, FLB Right-Hand Drive Clutch Crossover Linkage Torque Values

Clutch Brake 25.04
General Information
General Description
When the vehicle is stationary, a clutch brake permits
shifting into first gear or reverse gear without severe
gear clash.
Clutch brake engagement occurs approximately dur-
ing the last 1 to 1-1/4 inches (25 to 33 mm) of down-
ward pedal travel. The clutch brake is between the 1
release-bearing housing (see Fig. 1) and the trans-
mission bearing cap, and is engaged by tangs to the
transmission input shaft. When the pedal is fully de-
pressed, the clutch brake is squeezed between the
release-bearing housing and the transmission bear-
ing cap (see Fig. 2), stopping the rotation of the
main drive gear.
The clutch brake may be a disc-type or a torque-
limiting type. In addition, the clutch brake may be 2
either a one-piece or two-piece design. To prevent
overloads to it, the torque-limiting clutch brake is de- 03/01/94 f250003a
signed to slip when loads of 20 to 25 lbf·ft (27 to 34
1. Transmission Input Shaft Bearing Cap
N·m) are reached. Clutch brakes are not designed
2. Clutch Brake Discs and Washer
for upshifting.
Fig. 2, Clutch Brake and Bearing Cap
1 2
09/14/99 f250325a
1. Clutch Brake
2. Release Bearing
Fig. 1, Clutch Brake and Release Bearing
Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 23, December 1999 050/1

Clutch Brake 25.04
One-Piece Clutch Brake Replacement
Replacement these precautions will prevent bending and dis-

tortion of the clutch discs.
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, 18. Pull the transmission back until the input shaft
and chock the tires. clears the flywheel.
2. Tilt the hood. 19. Remove the old clutch brake from the transmis-
sion input shaft. See Fig. 1.
3. Drain the air tanks.
5. Place the transmission in gear. 1
6. Remove the shift tower from the top of the trans-
mission. See Group 26 in this manual for in-
structions.
7. Disconnect the driveline from the rear of the
transmission. See Group 41 in this manual for
instructions.
8. Disconnect the midship bearing. See Group 41
in this manual for instructions. Pull the driveshaft
aside and position it out of the way.
9. Remove the fuel tank compression brace. See
Group 47 in this manual for instructions.
10. Disconnect the clutch rod from the clutch release
lever. See Section 25.03 in this group for in-
structions.
11. Disconnect the transmission wiring.
01/02/96 f250247a
12. Disconnect the transmission air lines. 1. Clutch Brake
13. Remove the auxiliary air tank, if so equipped. Fig. 1, Clutch Brake Removal
14. Remove the transmission oil cooler and set it
20. Align the tangs of the new clutch brake with the
aside, out of the way.
grooves on the input shaft and slide the clutch
IMPORTANT: Do not disconnect the oil cooler brake into position. See Fig. 2.
lines.
15. Place a transmission jack in position below the CAUTION
transmission. Adjust the jack to support the
Use care to avoid springing the drive discs when
transmission.
the transmission is being installed. Do not force
16. Secure the transmission to the jack. the transmission into the clutch or flywheel hous-
ing if it does not enter freely. Do not let the trans-
17. Remove the flywheel housing-to-clutch housing mission drop or hang unsupported in the driven
bolts. See Group 26 in this manual for instruc- discs. These practices can damage the clutch
tions. assembly.
21. Install the transmission. See Group 26 in this
CAUTION manual for instructions.
Do not let the rear of the transmission drop, and 22. Remove the transmission jack.
the splined hubs of the clutch discs. Taking 23. Connect the air lines and the transmission wiring.

25.04 Clutch Brake
One-Piece Clutch Brake Replacement
03/01/94 f260096a
Fig. 2, Clutch Brake Installation

24. Install the fuel tank compression brace. See
Group 47 in this manual for instructions.
25. Install the auxiliary air tank, if so equipped.
26. Install the transmission oil cooler.
27. Install the shift tower on the top of the transmis-
sion. See Group 26 in this manual for instruc-
tions.
28. Connect the clutch rod to the clutch release le-
ver. See Section 25.03 in this group for instruc-
tions.
29. Connect the driveline at the rear of the transmis-
sion. See Group 41 in this manual for instruc-
tions.
30. Connect the midship bearing. See Group 41 in
this manual for instructions.
31. Ensure that the transmission is out of gear and
adjust the clutch. See Group 25 in this manual
for instructions.
33. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
tires.
34. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the clutch
brake and clutch operate properly.
100/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 23, December 1999

Clutch Brake 25.04
Replacement of a One-Piece Clutch Brake with a
Two-Piece Clutch Brake
Replacement
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake,
1
2. Tilt the hood.
2 2
3. Remove the four fasteners and the clutch inspec-
tion cover. See Fig. 1.
1
1
06/02/99 f250554
1. Clutch Brake Half
2. Allen-Head Fastener
Fig. 2, Two-Piece Clutch Brake (Spicer shown)

10. Tighten Allen-head fasteners 60 lbf·in (675
N·cm).
NOTE: Other types of two-piece clutch brakes
03/01/94 f250002a use roll pins for fasteners.
1. Inspection Cover
Fig. 1, Clutch Inspection Cover WARNING
Wear safety goggles when driving in roll pins. If
WARNING any of the metal parts were to chip, flying pieces
of metal could cause eye injury.
Wear safety goggles when cutting off the old
clutch brake. If any of the metal parts were to 11. If the replacement clutch brake uses roll pins,
chip, flying pieces of metal could cause eye in- carefully drive in the roll pins equally with a
jury. punch and mallet, securing the halves to each
other.
4. Using an air chisel, carefully cut off the old clutch
brake. 12. Install the clutch inspection cover and the four
fasteners. Tighten the fasteners securely.
5. Check the orientation and fit of the new two-
piece clutch brake halves. 13. Adjust the clutch. See Group 25 in this manual
for instructions.
6. Place one half of the new two-piece clutch brake
onto the input shaft and rotate it to the top side 14. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
of the shaft. See Fig. 2. tires.
7. Align the lower half with the upper half at the 15. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the clutch
connecting points. brake and clutch operate properly.
8. Hold both halves together and start the fasteners
on both sides.
9. Align the fasteners with the grooves on the input
shaft.

Clutch Brake 25.04
Two-Piece Clutch Brake Replacement
Replacement 8. Place one half of the new two-piece clutch brake

onto the input shaft and rotate it to the top side
of the shaft. See Fig. 2.
2. Tilt the hood.
3. Remove the four fasteners and the clutch inspec- 1
tion cover. See Fig. 1.
2 2
1
06/02/99 f250554
1. Clutch Brake Half
2. Allen-Head Fastener
Fig. 2, Two-Piece Clutch Brake (Spicer shown)

03/01/94 f250002a 9. Align the lower half with the upper half at the
1. Inspection Cover connecting points.
Fig. 1, Clutch Inspection Cover 10. Hold both halves together and start the fasteners
on both sides.
NOTE: Some types of two-piece clutch brakes
use roll pins for fasteners. 11. Align the fasteners with the grooves on the input
shaft.
4. Rotate the input shaft until the Allen-head fasten-
ers or roll pins securing the two clutch brake 12. Tighten Allen-head fasteners 60 lbf·in (675
halves are visible. N·cm).
5. If the old clutch brake uses Allen-head fasteners,

remove the fasteners and remove the two brake
WARNING
halves from the input shaft. Wear safety goggles when driving in roll pins. If
any of the metal parts were to chip, flying pieces
WARNING of metal could cause eye injury.
Wear safety goggles when driving out roll pins. If 13. If the replacement clutch brake uses roll pins,
any of the metal parts were to chip, flying pieces carefully drive in the roll pins equally with a
of metal could cause eye injury. punch and mallet, securing the halves to each
other.
6. If the old clutch brake uses roll pins, carefully
drive out the pins with a punch and mallet and 14. Install the clutch inspection cover and the four
remove the two brake halves from the input fasteners. Tighten the fasteners securely.
shaft. 15. Adjust the clutch. See Group 25 in this manual
7. Check the orientation and fit of the new two- for instructions.
piece clutch brake halves. 16. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
tires.

25.04 Clutch Brake
Two-Piece Clutch Brake Replacement
17. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the clutch
brake and clutch operate properly.

Clutch Brake 25.04
Troubleshooting
Vibration. Inspect the clutch disc hubs; check the installation of the clutch. Make sure
dampened discs are used.
The driver used the clutch brake while the Use correct driving technique.
vehicle was moving.
The driver used the clutch to hold the Use correct driving technique.
vehicle on a hill when stopped.
Problem—Poor Clutch Release

Problem—Poor Clutch Release
The clutch brake is damaged and/or not Install a new clutch brake.
functioning.

COE Tunnel Mounted Shifter 26.00
General Description
General Description
COEs have a shift lever assembly that mounts on
the cab tunnel. The system contains a hydraulic latch
mechanism and a telescoping tube assembly. This
system allows the cab to be tilted while maintaining
alignment between the forward and rear section ends
of the shift rod assembly. See Fig. 1.
SHIFT LEVER
TELESCOPING
TUBES
SHIFT TUBE
BRACKET
ASSEMBLY
(Latch Mechanism)
REMOTE
SHIFT
DOME
02/24/93 f260148
Fig. 1, COE Tunnel Mounted Shifter

Telescoping Tube Assembly Removal and Installation
Removal (See Fig. 1)
to cab tilt
cylinder
SHIFT TUBE
9 EXTENSION
6
1 7
2 9
3 LATCH BRACKET
8
4
1. Forward Shift Shaft
2. Hexhead Bolts
3. Hydraulic Line Fitting
5
to shift dome
4. Elbow
5. Shift Tube Bracket Assembly TELESCOPING
6. Flathead Capscrew SHIFT TUBE
7. Shift−Disconnect Cylinder ASEMBLY
8. O−Ring
9. Bolt and Nut
f260036
Fig. 1
1. Tilt the cab; for instructions, see Group 60. 5. Remove the bolts (Ref. 9) and nuts that connect
the telescoping shift tube flange to the shift tube
2. Release the hydraulic pressure by alternately
extension flange.
moving the control lever on the tilt pump to the
"Raise" and "Lower" positions. Hold the control 6. Place the telescoping tube on a workbench.
lever in each position for a few seconds. Allow
enough time for the shift-disconnect cylinder Installation (See Fig. 1)
(Ref. 7) to empty.
3. Disconnect the hydraulic line (Ref. 3) from the 1. Fully extend the telescoping tube, then wipe it off
elbow (Ref. 4) on the shift-disconnect cylinder with a clean cloth.
(Ref. 7). Plug the line to prevent dirt from enter-
2. Inspect the O-ring (Ref. 8) on the latch bracket
ing the system.
tube socket. If worn or damaged, replace it.
4. Remove the two hexhead bolts (Ref. 2) and the
3. Apply a light coating of multipurpose chassis
flathead capscrew (Ref. 6) that attach the
grease to the surfaces of the telescoping tubes.
bracket assembly (Ref. 5) to the forward shift
shaft (Ref. 1).

26.00 COE Tunnel Mounted Shifter
Telescoping Tube Assembly Removal and Installation
4. Install the bolts and nuts that connect the tele-

scoping shift tube flange to the shift tube exten-
sion flange. Tighten the nuts 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m).
5. Apply Loctite® 242, or an equivalent, to the
threads of the two hexhead bolts and the flat-
head capscrew that attach the bracket assembly
to the forward shift shaft. Install and tighten the
hexhead bolts 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m). Install and
tighten the flathead capscrew 30 lbf·in (340
N·cm).
6. Connect the hydraulic line to the elbow on the
latch cylinder.
7. Return the cab to the operating position; for in-
structions, see Group 60.
8. Loosen the hydraulic line at the elbow on the
latch cylinder. Place the tilt pump control lever in
the "Raise" position, and operate the tilt pump
until a bubble-free stream of hydraulic fluid flows
from the fitting. Pump until about 2 oz (60 mL) of
hydraulic fluid flows from the fitting to ensure that
the entire line is free of air.
Tighten the line and refill the tilt pump until hy-
draulic fluid appears in the fill port. See Group 60
of the Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual
for fluid specifications. Install and tighten the fill
plug.
9. Before starting the engine, move the shift lever
to a forward position. This will apply a backward
force against the shift linkage and close the latch
in the shift tube bracket assembly.
10. Start the engine. With the engine running, move
the shift lever through several gear positions.
Check that the shift tube bracket assembly has
latched and the linkage is working properly.

Remote Shift Dome Removal and Installation
Removal (See Fig. 1) 2. Install the poppet (coil) springs as previously

marked.
2 1
3. Wipe off the underside of the shift dome with a
clean cloth.
1 WARNING
WARNING: When installing the shift dome, make
sure the outer shift lever is pointing straight
1 down or less than five degrees toward the rear of
the vehicle. If the lever points forward, the trans-
mission can come out of gear, possibly resulting
1 in personal injury or property damage.
3
4. Insert a capscrew and hardened flatwasher into
the left rear mounting hole, under the pivot rod.
Position the outer shift lever so that it points
straight down when installed on the transmission.
4 5. Remove the cardboard cover from the opening in
the transmission, and lower the shift dome and
03/08/94 f260105a shift tube extension into place.
1. Capscrew 3. Pivot Rod 6. Install the remaining hardened flatwashers and
2. Remote Shift Dome 4. Outer Shift Lever capscrews and tighten them 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m).
Fig. 1 7. Install the bolts and nuts that connect the tele-
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. sion flange. Tighten the nuts 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m).
Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Remove the bolts and nuts that connect the tele-
sion flange.
3. Remove the four capscrews that attach the shift
dome flange to the top of the transmission.
Slowly lift the dome and shift tube extension from
the transmission.
IMPORTANT: Take care to remove the shift
dome slowly or the three or four poppet (coil)
springs may come out. If these springs are re-
moved, mark them for assembly reference.
Cover the entire shift dome opening in the top
of the transmission with a clean piece of card-
board. Fasten the cardboard in place with the
shift dome attachment capscrews.

1. Inspect the shift dome gasket. If the gasket is
worn or damaged, replace it.

Shift Lever Boot Replacement

1. Remove the lower cover from the shift knob;
then, disconnect the air lines from the shift knob.
2. Loosen the locknut and remove the shift knob.
3. Remove the screws attaching the shift boot to
the tunnel; then, remove the shift boot.
4. Install the new shift boot and securely tighten the
screws. Make sure that the shift boot is posi-
tioned correctly, or it could tear.
5. Install the shift knob, then securely tighten the
locknut.
6. Connect the air lines, then install the lower cover
on the shift knob.
1. Shift Lever Boot

03/08/93 f260001
Fig. 1

Shift Lever and Pivot Block Removal and Installation
4 1
2
2
3
4
8
3
5
7
1. Shift Lever Boot

2. Shift Lever
3. Upper Pivot Yoke
4. Pivot Block
5. Forward Shift Shaft 7. Torsion Spring
6. Shift Tube Bracket 8. Upper Pivot Yoke Nut
Assembly 9. Lower Pivot Yoke Nut
02/26/93 f260033
Fig. 1, Pivot Block and Shift Lever Assembly

1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. retaining capscrew in the pivot block. See Fig. 2.
Shift the transmission into neutral. Remove the shift lever and the pivot block as-
sembly.
2. Tilt the cab; for instructions, see Group 60.
9. With the upper pivot yoke and shift lever pointing
3. Remove the tie strap that attaches the hydraulic
up, clamp the pivot block in a vise.
line to the forward shift shaft.
10. Rotate the yoke away from the roll pin in the
4. Remove the two hexhead bolts and the flathead
pivot block, then remove the roll pin.
capscrew that attach the bracket assembly to the
forward shift shaft. 11. Turn the yoke slowly until spring tension is re-
lieved. Remove the capscrew that attaches the
5. Secure the shift tube assembly so it won’t be
torsion spring to the pivot block. Turn the yoke
damaged when the cab is lowered.
shaft away from the spring end, then pry the
6. Return the cab to the operating position; for in- spring out of the yoke shaft.
structions, see Group 60.
12. Remove the nut, spacing washer, and nylon
7. Remove the shift knob and the shift lever boot. washer from the upper pivot yoke shaft. Remove
For instructions, see Subject 120. the pivot block and the nylon washer from the
yoke shaft.
8. Loosen the four pivot block mounting capscrews
and remove three of them, leaving the spring- 13. Remove the nut, spacing washer, and nylon
washer from the lower pivot yoke shaft. Remove

Shift Lever and Pivot Block Removal and Installation
6. Hold the spring and turn the pivot block clock-

1 wise (as viewed from the spring end) one full
2 turn.
3 7. Install the roll pin in the pivot block.
4 8. Apply Loctite 242, or an equivalent, on the

threads of the three remaining pivot block mount-
5 ing capscrews. Install and tighten the capscrews
13 lbf·ft (18 N·m). Tighten the capscrew that at-
taches the torsion spring 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m).
9. Install the shift lever boot and shift knob. For in-
structions, see Subject 120.
1. Lower Pivot Yoke Nut 10. Tilt the cab; for instructions, see Group 60.
2. Pivot Block Roll Pin
3. Spring−Retaining Capscrew 11. Apply Loctite 242, or an equivalent, to the
4. Pivot Block threads of the two hexhead bolts and the flat-
5. Torsion Spring head capscrew that attach the bracket assembly
to the forward shift shaft. Install and tighten the
03/08/93 f260021 hexhead bolts 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m). Install and
tighten the flathead capscrew 30 lbf·in (340
Fig. 2
N·cm).
the shift lever/upper pivot yoke from the lower 12. Install a tie strap to attach the hydraulic line to
pivot yoke shaft. the forward shift shaft.
13. Return the cab to the operating position; for in-
Installation (See Fig. 1) structions, see Group 60.
NOTE: The shift lever is secured to the upper 14. Check the shift lever for correct vertical adjust-
pivot yoke with needle bearings that are press ment. For instructions, see Subject 160.
fit and staked in place. If needed, replace the
shift lever and the upper pivot yoke as an as-
sembly.
1. Place the shift lever/upper pivot yoke on the
lower pivot yoke shaft. Install a nylon washer,
spacing washer, and nut. Tighten the nut 100
lbf·in (1120 N·cm).
2. Install a nylon washer on the shaft of the upper
pivot yoke. Install the pivot block on the shaft.
3. Install a nylon washer and spacing washer on
the shaft. Install the nut and tighten it 100 lbf·in
(1120 N·cm). Back off the nut one-quarter turn.
4. Make sure that the spring loop is on the side of
the pivot block nearest the roll pin hole. Apply
Loctite® 242, or an equivalent, to a mounting
capscrew, then attach the torsion spring to the
pivot block.
5. Turn the block and spring until the spring end
enters the hole near the end of the yoke shaft.

Shift Tube Bracket Assembly Replacement

7
1. Tilt the cab. For instructions, refer to the vehicle 8
9
driver’s manual. Shift the transmission into neu- 10
tral. 1
2. Release the hydraulic pressure by alternately 2
moving the control lever on the tilt pump to the 3
"Raise" and "Lower" positions. Hold the control
lever in each position for a few seconds. Allow 4
enough time for the shift-disconnect cylinder 5
(Ref. 9) to empty. 6
1. Hexhead Bolts
3. With the shift-disconnect cylinder fully collapsed, 2. Shift−Disconnect Cylinder Pivot Pin
remove the fitting on the cylinder. Plug the end of 3. Shift Tube Bracket Assembly
4. Latch Hook
the line to prevent dirt from entering the system.
5. Roll Pin
4. Remove the two hexhead bolts (Ref. 1) and the 6. Telescoping Tube
flathead capscrew (Ref. 8) that attach the 7. Forward Shift Shaft
bracket assembly (Ref. 3) to the forward shift 8. Flathead Capscrew
9. Shift−Disconnect Cylinder
shaft. 10. Latch Spring
5. Remove the bolts and nuts that connect the tele- 02/26/93 f260149
sion flange. Fig. 1
6. Place the telescoping tube on a workbench. Ex- to the forward shift shaft. Install and tighten the
tend the tube fully, then wipe off the tubes with a hexhead bolts 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m). Install and
clean cloth. tighten the flathead capscrew 30 lbf·in (340
N·cm).
7. Remove the shift-disconnect cylinder from the
bracket assembly. For instructions, refer to Sub- 14. Connect the hydraulic line to the elbow on the
ject 150. latch cylinder.
8. Remove the roll pin (Ref. 5) from the bracket as- 15. Return the cab to the operating position. For in-
sembly. Remove the bracket assembly from the structions, refer to the vehicle driver’s manual.
telescoping shift tube.
NOTE: The roll pin is staked at both ends. latch cylinder. Place the tilt pump control lever in
the "Raise" position, and operate the tilt pump
9. Install the shift-disconnect cylinder on the new until a bubble-free stream of hydraulic fluid flows
bracket assembly. For instructions, refer to Sub- from the fitting. Pump until about 2 oz (60 mL) of
ject 150. hydraulic fluid flows from the fitting to ensure that
10. Place the bracket assembly on the telescoping the entire line is free of air.
shift tube. Install the roll pin and stake it at both Tighten the fitting, and refill the tilt pump until
ends. hydraulic fluid appears in the fill port. Refer to
11. Apply a light coating of multipurpose chassis the cab section in the vehicle maintenance
grease to the surfaces of the telescoping tubes. manual for fluid specifications. Install and tighten
the fill plug.
12. Install the bolts and nuts that connect the tele-
scoping shift tube flange to the shift tube exten- 17. Check the shift lever for correct vertical adjust-
sion flange. Tighten the nuts 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m). ment. For instructions, refer to Subject 160.
13. Apply Loctite® 242, or an equivalent, to the 18. Start the engine. With the engine running, move
threads of the two hexhead bolts and the flat- the shift lever through several gear positions.
head capscrew that attach the bracket assembly

Shift Tube Bracket Assembly Replacement


Shift-Disconnect Cylinder Replacement
Replacement (See Fig. 1) 8

9
1. Tilt the cab. For instructions, refer to the vehicle 10
driver’s manual. Shift the transmission into neu- 11
tral. 1
2
2. Release the hydraulic pressure by alternately 3
moving the control lever on the tilt pump to the
4
"Raise" and "Lower" positions. Hold the control 5
lever in each position for a few seconds. Allow 6
enough time for the shift-disconnect cylinder 7
1. Hexhead Bolts
(Ref. 10) to empty. 2. Shift−Disconnect Cylinder Pivot Pin
3. With the shift-disconnect cylinder fully collapsed, 3. Shift Tube Bracket Assembly
remove the fitting on the cylinder. Plug the end of 4. Capscrew and Locknut
5. Latch Hook
the line to prevent dirt from entering the system.
6. Roll Pin
4. Remove the latch spring (Ref. 11) from the latch 7. Telescoping Tube
hook (Ref. 5). 8. Forward Shift Shaft
9. Flathead Capscrew
5. Remove the snap ring from the pivot pin (Ref. 2) 10. Shift−Disconnect Cylinder
that attaches the cylinder to the bracket. Remove 11. Latch Spring
the pivot pin. 02/26/93 f260150
6. Remove the capscrew and locknut (Ref. 4) that

attach the latch hook to the bracket assembly. Fig. 1
Remove the cylinder and latch hook from the
bracket. Tighten the fitting, and refill the tilt pump until
hydraulic fluid appears in the fill port. Refer to
7. Remove the snap ring and pivot pin that attach the cab section in the vehicle maintenance
the cylinder rod to the latch hook. manual for fluid specifications. Install and tighten
the fill plug.
8. Attach the cylinder rod of the new cylinder to the
latch hook, with the pivot pin and snap ring. 15. Start the engine. With the engine running, move
the shift lever through several gear positions.
9. Position the latch hook in the bracket assembly.
Install the capscrew and locknut. Tighten the
locknut 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m).
10. Insert the cylinder pivot pin and lock it in place
with a snap ring.
11. Install the latch spring.
12. Connect the hydraulic line to the elbow on the
shift-disconnect cylinder.
13. Return the cab to the operating position. For in-
structions, refer to the vehicle driver’s manual.
shift-disconnect cylinder. Place the tilt pump con-
trol lever in the "Raise" position, and operate the
tilt pump until a bubble-free stream of hydraulic
fluid flows from the fitting. Pump until about 2 oz
(60 mL) of hydraulic fluid flows from the fitting to
ensure that the entire line is free of air.

Checking and Adjusting
Checking 2
SELECTION LEVER BALL

JOINT ATTACHMENT (See Fig. 1)
Check that the ball joint in the selection lever is at- C
tached to the outer shift lever hole that is nearest the B
shifting shaft. Tighten the castle nut 30 lbf·ft (41
N·m), then advance the nut until you can insert and
lock the cotter pin. A
1
1 03/08/94 f260035a
1. Selection Lever 2. Pivot Rod
Fig. 2
2 NOTE: 3-rail transmissions have 5 or 6 shift

3 lever positions (excluding neutral); 4-rail trans-
missions have 8 shift lever positions (excluding
4
neutral).
Adjustment
03/08/94 f260034a
1. Shifting Shaft
2. Outer Shift Lever
3. Ball Joint
4. Selection Lever
PIVOT ROD
Shift the transmission into neutral. The selection
Fig. 1 lever should be parallel to the framerail web.
NOTE: The outer shift lever must point straight If the selection lever is not parallel to the framerail
down when the transmission is in neutral. web, loosen the jam nuts at each end of the pivot
rod. Turn the pivot rod to lengthen or shorten it.
When the selection lever is parallel to the framerail
PIVOT ROD ATTACHMENT web, tighten the jam nuts 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m).
(See Fig. 2) NOTE: Don’t use the pivot rod for shift linkage
On 3-rail transmissions, check that the pivot rod end or other transmission adjustments.
is installed in the hole (Ref. A) nearest the right angle
in the selection lever. Tighten the locknut 50 lbf·ft (68 SHIFT LEVER ANGLE (See Fig. 3)
N·m).
Shift the transmission so that the shift lever is at the
On 4-rail Spicer transmissions, check that the pivot most inboard and rearmost gear position. The shift
rod end is installed in the center hole (Ref. B) of the lever should be vertical, and not leaning in any other
selection lever. Tighten the locknut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m). direction. If the shift lever is not vertical, make the
On 4-rail Fuller transmissions, check that the pivot following adjustment:
rod end is installed in the hole (Ref. C) farthest from If the shift lever is leaning forward or rearward,
the right angle in the selection lever. Tighten the loosen the adjustment sleeve clamp capscrews and
locknut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m). turn the sleeve until the shift lever is vertical. Tighten
the rear adjustment sleeve clamp capscrew 55 lbf·ft
(75 N·m). Make sure that the slit in the adjustment

1
4
03/08/94 f260147a
A. to the shift lever
1. Adjustment Sleeve With Clamps 3. Remote Shift Dome
2. Shift Tube Extension 4. Pivot Rod
Fig. 3
sleeve is turned inboard, and that the capscrews are

centered over the slit.
NOTE: Turning the sleeve clockwise shortens
the linkage and moves the shift lever forward.
Turning the sleeve counterclockwise lengthens
the linkage and moves the shift lever rearward.
If the shift lever is leaning left or right, move the shift
lever inboard as far as possible; then, move the shift
lever out 1 inch (25 mm) from this position. Tighten
the forward adjustment sleeve clamp bolt 55 lbf·ft (75
N·m). The shift lever should now tilt only one to six
degrees.

Manual Transmission 26.01
Manual Transmission Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, put the
transmission into high gear, and tilt the hood or
cab.
2. Drain the air brake system.
3. Disconnect the batteries either manually or with
the battery shutoff switch.
4. Remove or disconnect the shift linkage.
4.1 On FLDs: Remove the shift tower from
inside the cab, and cover the shift tower
hole in the top of the transmission to pre-
vent dirt from entering the transmission.
4.2 On COEs: Remove the shift dome from
the top of the transmission. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 110 in Section 26.00. 8
5. If applicable, close the fuel shut off valves or 3 7
drain the fuel tanks, and disconnect the fuel 1
crossover line.
3
6. Disconnect the driveline from the transmission 7
output yoke. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100 in Section 41.00. 3
5
7. Disconnect the driveline midship bearing from
3 6
the midship bearing bracket, and pull the drive-
line off to one side, out of the way. For instruc- 5
2
tions, see Subject 100 in Section 41.00. 3 4
06/01/93 f260160
8. Disconnect the clutch rod from the clutch release
1. Transmission Oil 6. Oil Cooler Mounting
lever. Cooler Bracket
9. Disconnect all wiring at the transmission, includ- 2. Capscrew, 5/16–18 7. Locknut, 5/16–18
ing the speedometer sensor at the output yoke, 3. Washer, 1/4-inch 8. Oil Cooler Support
the neutral start switch, and the back-up alarm 4. Biscuit Plate Strut
5. Biscuits
as applicable. Mark all wires for reassembly.
10. Disconnect all air lines from the transmission, Fig. 1, Transmission Oil Cooler Mounting
and mark those lines for reassembly. Plug all air
lines, and cap all transmission air fittings. ported only by an axle jack, the vehicle can fall,
resulting in personal injury or property damage.
11. If applicable, remove the transmission fluid
cooler without disconnecting the fluid hoses. See 12. Raise the front of the vehicle high enough that
Fig. 1. Move the cooler aside without damaging you can remove the transmission by rolling it out
the cooler fins. under the front axle.
13. Position a transmission jack under the transmis-
WARNING sion, and raise its support plate against the bot-
tom of the transmission. Adjust the support plate
After lifting the front end of the vehicle, do not to the same angle as the bottom of the transmis-
get under the vehicle until it is securely sup- sion.
ported by vehicle stands. If the vehicle is sup-

26.01 Manual Transmission
14. Raise the transmission jack until it fits securely

against the bottom of the transmission, then se-
cure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
15. Remove the flywheel-housing-to-clutch-housing
attachment bolts.
NOTICE
Do not let the rear of the transmission drop, and
the splined hubs of the clutch discs. Keep the
flange of the clutch housing parallel (all the way
around) to the flange of the flywheel housing,
until the input shaft is clear of the clutch. Taking
these precautions will prevent damage to the
clutch discs. 03/01/94 f250163a
NOTE: Clutch brake installation for a Fuller transmission
16. Pull the transmission and jack straight back, until is shown here. For a Spicer transmission, the clutch
the transmission input shaft is clear of the clutch brake would be reversed so the larger face of the brake
and the engine flywheel housing. Lower the would be against the transmission.
transmission and roll it on the jack, out from
under the vehicle. Fig. 2, Clutch Brake Installation
4. Check for wear on the fingers of the clutch re-

Installation lease yoke, release shafts, and the release shaft
bushings. Replace any worn parts as necessary.
1. If not already done, apply the parking brakes, 5. Shift the transmission into gear, so that the trans-
chock the tires, and tilt the hood or cab. mission input shaft can be rotated during assem-
2. If the clutch brake was removed, install the bly, to line it up with the clutch driven-disc hub
clutch brake on the transmission input shaft. See splines.
Fig. 2. Slide it tight against the input shaft bear-
ing cap. WARNING
NOTE: Torque limiting clutch brakes are a one- After lifting the front end of the vehicle, do not
piece assembly with a larger and a smaller face. get under the vehicle until it is securely sup-
When installing a torque limiting clutch brake on ported by vehicle stands. If the vehicle is sup-
a Spicer® transmission, install the larger face ported only by an axle jack, the vehicle can fall,
toward the transmission; when installing it on a resulting in personal injury or property damage.
Fuller® transmission, install the smaller face to- 6. If the vehicle isn’t already raised and supported
ward the transmission. on stands, raise the front of the vehicle high
3. Apply a light coating of high-temperature grease enough that you can move the transmission into
to the sides and bottom of the input shaft position by rolling it under the front axle.
splines, and a small amount inside the clutch 7. Roll the transmission and jack into alignment be-
release bearing sleeve. hind the engine. Raise the transmission jack sup-
NOTE: Avoid the common practice of smearing port plate until the flange of the clutch housing is
a handful of grease over the splines of the input parallel (all the way around) to the flange of the
shaft. Most of this grease will be wiped off by flywheel housing. Align the transmission input
shaft with the hole in the release bearing sleeve.
the release bearing sleeve when the transmis-
sion is assembled to the clutch. 8. Push the transmission and jack straight forward,
while making sure the flanges remain parallel,

Manual Transmission 26.01
until the transmission input shaft begins to enter 15. Connect the clutch rod to the clutch release
the clutch release bearing. lever. For instructions, see Subject 110 in Sec-
tion 25.00.
9. Rotate the top of the clutch release yoke rear-
ward, and rotate the release bearing until the flat 16. Connect the driveline to the transmission output
portion is at the top. Roll the transmission slowly yoke. For instructions, see Subject 100 in Sec-
forward. Raise or lower the transmission as re- tion 41.00.
quired to maintain alignment. 17. Connect the midship bearing to the midship
IMPORTANT: Be sure that the release bearing bearing bracket. For instructions, see Sub-
yoke clears the release bearing, and is rotated ject 100 in Section 41.00.
over the wear pads as the transmission is 18. If applicable, connect the fuel crossover line
moved forward. See Fig. 3. Align the input shaft
19. Connect the batteries or turn on the battery shut-
splines with the clutch disc splines by turning off switch.
the transmission output shaft.
20. Grease the clutch release bearing and the re-
lease shafts. For instructions, see Group 26 of
NOTICE the Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual.
Use care to avoid springing the drive discs when 21. Check the clutch and clutch linkage for proper
the transmission is being installed. Do not force clutch pedal free-travel and clutch brake opera-
the transmission into the clutch or flywheel hous- tion. To adjust the clutch, see Sub-
ing if it does not enter freely. Do not let the trans- ject 100 in Section 25.00.
mission drop or hang unsupported in the driven
discs. These practices can damage the clutch 22. Lower the hood or cab, and remove the chocks
assembly. from the tires.
10. Push the transmission forward until the clutch

housing pilot flange enters the flywheel housing
pilot bore. Install the flywheel-housing-to-clutch-
housing attachment capscrews, and using a
crisscross pattern, tighten them finger-tight.
Then, using the same crisscross pattern, tighten
the capscrews either 43 to 53 lbf·ft (58 to 72
N·m) for Patch-Lok capscrews, or 38 to 45 lbf·ft
(52 to 61 N·m) for non-locking capscrews with
lockwashers.
11. Remove the chain that secures the transmission
to the jack, and remove the jack from under the
vehicle.
12. Raise the vehicle enough to remove the vehicle
stands. Remove the stands, and lower the ve-
hicle to the ground.
13. Install or connect the shift linkage.
13.1 On FLDs: Install the shift tower inside the
cab.
13.2 On COEs: Install the shift dome on top of
the transmission. For instructions, see
Subject 110 in Section 26.00.
14. Connect the air lines and wiring to the transmis-
sion as previously marked.

26.01 Manual Transmission
03/01/94 f250035a
Fig. 3

Cummins Engine Mechanical Throttle Control, FLA/FLB 30.00
General Information
General Information
Freightliner throttle controls have a floor-mounted
throttle pedal, adjustable-length throttle rods, a strut-
mounted bellcrank, dual return springs, and an ad-
justable pedal stop. See Fig. 1.
During engine operation, movement of the throttle
pedal and linkage will change the amount of fuel
available to the engine. To ensure that the pedal will
be at the correct angle when the engine is at idle
rpm, the length of the linkage is adjustable by means
of spherical bearing rod ends, with the adjustment
secured by jam nuts. See Fig. 2. The spherical bear-
ings prevent binding of the linkage.
Dual springs return the throttle control parts to their
idle positions when the pedal is released.
When the linkage is properly adjusted, the governor
shaft can rotate from idle rpm to maximum horse-
power. To ensure that maximum horsepower is al-
ways reached, the linkage must be able to move just
beyond the position where the governor shaft has
stopped rotating, without causing damage to the gov-
ernor. Cummins governor arms consist of two parts
held in alignment by a breakover spring. When the
part of the governor arm attached to the governor
shaft has moved as far as the shaft rotation will al-
low, the force applied at the pedal overcomes the
resistance of the breakover spring. This allows the
part of the governor arm attached to the linkage to
move into the breakover range. If the governor arm
were forced beyond the breakover range, the linkage
or governor arm could be damaged. An adjustable
pedal stop prevents movement of the linkage beyond
the governor arm’s breakover range.

30.00 Cummins Engine Mechanical Throttle Control, FLA/FLB
General Information
2
3 5
4
6
7
1
A
8
9 11
10
13
12
B
7
11
15 14
C
16
04/12/2000 f300155a
A. Return spring installation without capscrews
B. Return spring installation with capscrews
C. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm)
1. Throttle Stop 7. 5/16–24 Jam Nut 12. Bellcrank
2. Throttle Pedal 8. Throttle Guide Tube 13. Horizontal Throttle Rod
3. Locknut 9. Vertical Throttle Tube 14. Return Springs
4. Externally Threaded Spherical 10. Kep Nut 15. 15/16–18 Capscrew
Bearing Rod End 11. Externally Threaded Spherical 16. Return-Spring Bracket
5. 5/16–24 Capscrew Bearing Rod End
6. Pedal Throttle Arm
Fig. 1, Throttle Linkage (NTC)

General Information
2 1
3 2
3
07/26/94 f300002
1. Internally Threaded Throttle Rod

2. Jam Nut
3. Externally Threaded Spherical Bearing Rod End
Fig. 2, Throttle Rod Parts

Throttle Control Operation Checking
Throttle Control Operation necessary. Disconnect the opposite ends

from the spring bracket.
Checking 7.2 Inspect the springs, especially in the area
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, of the anchor loops, for wear, nicks, or
and chock the tires. other damage that might cause breakage.
2. Tilt the cab. For instructions, see Section 60.04, 7.3 Measure the springs for stretching. The
Subject 060, in this manual. relaxed spring should be no more than
9-3/8 inches (238 mm) long, from the out-
3. Check the linkage attachment fasteners (cap- side of one anchor loop to the outside of
screws, locknuts, and hexnuts) for tightness; the opposite anchor loop.
tighten any that are loose.
7.4 If the used springs are worn, damaged, or
4. Operate the linkage by hand, from idle to maxi- stretched, install new springs.
mum horsepower, while checking that nothing
interferes with movement of the linkage. Reposi- 7.5 Install the springs by hooking one end of
tion any parts that interfere. Check the tightness each spring around the capscrew or
of the bellcrank shoulder bolt and locknut, and through the hole in the return-spring
the bellcrank attaching capscrew; if loose, tighten bracket. Then, using the hook, place the
the locknut or capscrew 20 lbf·ft (27 N·m). opposite anchor loop of each spring
around the capscrew or through the hole
5. Check the horizontal rod for binding by rotating in the governor arm.
the rod in and out. With the rod-end jam nuts
tight against the rod, both rod ends must be free 8. With the cab in the operating position, and the
to swivel on their spherical bearings. If the rod governor arm at idle, check the angle of the
and rod ends do not rotate in and out, adjust the throttle pedal. The pedal must be at an angle of
rod ends and jam nuts as follows: approximately 50 degrees to the cab deck. See
Fig. 2.
5.1 Loosen the jam nuts at each end of the
throttle rod. See Fig. 1. If the throttle pedal angle is too high or too low,
adjust the length of the throttle linkage. See Sub-
5.2 Turn the throttle rod to a position that pre- ject 110.
vents other components from interfering
with the rod’s movement through full 9. Operate the throttle pedal by hand, from idle
travel. through full travel, while checking that the gover-
nor arm travels at least 5 degrees into the break-
5.3 Hold the throttle rod in this position and over range.
turn each of the spherical bearing rod
ends in the direction opposite to the rota- NOTE: The breakover range begins at the point
tion of the throttle linkage. Hold the rod in where the two parts of the governor arm begin
this position while tightening the rod-end to have intersecting centerlines. See Fig. 3.
jam nuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). On NTCs, you can see the governor arm by
6. Check the length of the installed return springs. looking between the bottom of the cab deck and
When the throttle lever is at idle, the springs the top of the frame rail above the right front
must be 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm) tire.
long. See Fig. 1. If the spring length is incorrect,
see Subject 130. On L10s, you cannot see the governor arm
when the cab is in the operating position. To
7. Inspect the return springs. check that the governor arm has reached the
7.1 Using a hook (do not use sharply ser- approximate middle of the breakover range, op-
rated pliers), disconnect the anchor loop erate the throttle pedal near the lower end of its
of each spring from the governor arm. Do travel. With your hand, you should be able to
not stretch the springs any further than feel the increased resistance that occurs when
the governor shaft stops rotating and the break-

2
3 5
4
6
7
1
A
8
9 11
10
13
12
B
7
11
15 14
C
16
04/12/2000 f300155a
C. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm)
1. Throttle Stop 7. 5/16–24 Jam Nut 12. Bellcrank
3. Locknut 9. Vertical Throttle Tube 14. Return Springs
Bearing Rod End 11. Externally Threaded Spherical 16. Return-Spring Bracket
5. 5/16–24 Capscrew Bearing Rod End
Fig. 1, Throttle Linkage (NTC)

over spring allows the governor arm to move If the governor arm does not travel at least 5
into the breakover range. If the throttle pedal degrees into the breakover range, adjust the
contacts the pedal stop before any increased pedal stop; see Subject 120.
resistance is felt, the breakover range is not be- 10. Return the cab to the operating position. See
ing reached. Section 60.04, Subject 060, in this manual.

1
2
3
A
04/12/2000 f300003
A. 50 degrees
1. Throttle Stop Capscrew
2. Jam Nut
3. Cab Deck
4. Throttle Pedal
Fig. 2, Throttle Pedal at Idle
04/12/2000 f300157a
A. 5 degrees
Fig. 3, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (NTC)

12. Test drive the vehicle and ensure proper opera-
tion of the throttle system.

Throttle Linkage Length Adjustment
Throttle Linkage Length

Adjustment
and chock the tires. A
1
2. With the cab in the operating position, remove 2
the radiator grille. 3
3. When the governor arm is at idle, check the

angle of the bellcrank. The shorter arm of the
bellcrank must be at an angle of 30 degrees
above horizontal. See Fig. 1 .
4. If the bellcrank is positioned correctly, proceed to
step 4. If the bellcrank is not positioned correctly,
adjust the length of the horizontal throttle rod as
follows:
throttle rod. 4
5 8 9
4.2 Remove the locknut, flat washer, and 6 3 10
capscrew from the long arm of the 7
bellcrank and the spherical bearing rod B 8
end.
11
4.3 Hold the bellcrank so that the shorter arm 12
is at an angle of 30 degrees above hori-
zontal.
4.4 With the governor arm at idle, turn the
rod end until the spherical bearing bore is
aligned with the hole nearest the end of 04/12/2000 f300005
the longer bellcrank arm.
A. 50 degrees
B. 30 degrees
WARNING 1. Throttle Stop 8. Capscrew, Flat
Assembly Washer and Locknut
When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least 2. Pedal Throttle Arm 9. Externally Threaded
5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod end must 3. 5/16–24 Jam Nut Spherical Bearing
remain engaged in the rod. Anything less could 4. Throttle Guide Tube Rod End
result in disengagement of the throttle linkage, 5. Vertical Throttle Rod 10. Horizontal Throttle
which could cause sudden loss of engine power, 6. Kep Nut Rod
possibly resulting in personal injury or property 7. Internally Threaded 11. Bellcrank
damage. Spherical Bearing 12. Shoulder Bolt and
Rod End Locknut
4.5 At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the
rod end must remain engaged in the rod. Fig. 1, Bellcrank Short Arm Angle
If more adjustment is needed than can be 4.6 Install a flat washer on the attaching cap-
made at the bellcrank end of the rod, turn screw, then insert the capscrew into the
the rod as needed, to change the thread bore of the rod end. From the outside,
engagement of the rod at the governor insert the bolt into the hole nearest the
arm. end of the longer bellcrank arm. Install
and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).

4.7 Turn the throttle rod to a position that pre- 10. Test drive the vehicle and ensure proper opera-
vents other components from interfering tion of the throttle system.
with the rod’s movement through full
travel. Hold the throttle rod in this position
and turn each of the spherical bearing rod
ends in the direction opposite the rotation
of the throttle linkage. Hold the rod in this
position while tightening the rod-end jam
4.8 Tilt the cab. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 60.04, Subject 060, in this manual.
5. Adjust the length of the vertical throttle rod as
follows:
5.1 Loosen the Kep nut at the bottom of the
vertical throttle rod. See Fig. 1.
5.2 Turn the vertical throttle rod until the
throttle pedal is at an angle of approxi-
mately 50 degrees to the cab deck.
WARNING
When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least
5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must re-
main engaged in the rod end. Anything less
could result in disengagement of the throttle link-
age, which could cause sudden loss of engine
power, possibly resulting in personal injury or
property damage.
rod must remain engaged in the rod end.
If more adjustment is needed than can be
made between the vertical throttle rod
and the spherical bearing rod end, tighten
the Kep nut at the bottom of the vertical
throttle rod. Loosen the jam nut at the top
of the throttle guide tube and turn the
guide tube as needed.
5.4 Tighten the jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Tighten the Kep nut 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm).
structions, see Section 60.04, Subject 060, in
this manual.
7. Adjust the pedal stop. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 120.
8. Install the radiator grille.

Pedal Stop Adjustment
Pedal Stop Adjustment nor shaft stops rotating and the breakover spring
allows the governor arm to move into the break-
over range.
NOTE: If the throttle linkage is not new, perform
the checks under Subject 100 before adjusting A
the pedal stop.
2. Tilt the cab. For instructions, see Section 60.04,
Subject 060, in this manual.
3. Loosen the pedal stop jam nut, and turn the cap-
screw in until no threads are showing above or
below the jam nut. See Fig. 1. This allows maxi-
mum pedal travel.
1 04/12/2000 f300157a
2 A. 5 degrees
Fig. 2, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (NTC)

4
5. Position the head of the pedal stop capscrew
1/16 to 1/8 inch (1.5 to 3 mm) from the bottom of
the pedal, and tighten the jam nut against the
cab deck.
6. Operate the pedal to check the adjustment. Re-
3 adjust if necessary.
A
04/12/2000 f300003
A. 50 degrees this manual.
1. Throttle Stop Capscrew
2. Jam Nut 8. Remove the chocks from the tires.
3. Cab Deck
4. Throttle Pedal 9. Test drive the vehicle and ensure proper opera-
Fig. 1, Pedal Stop Adjustment
4. Hold the throttle pedal at the point where the
centerlines of the two parts of the governor arm
form an angle of 5 degrees. See Fig. 2.
On NTCs, you can see the governor arm by
looking between the bottom of the cab deck and
the top of the frame rail above the right front tire.
On L10s, you cannot see the governor arm when
the cab is in the operating position. To check that
the governor arm has reached the approximate
middle of the breakover range, operate the
throttle pedal near the lower end of its travel.
With your hand, you should be able to feel the
increased resistance that occurs when the gover-

Throttle Control Installation
Throttle Control Installation 5. On NTCs, with the governor arm pointing upward
at 22 degrees aft of vertical, measure the dis-
Use the following procedure if the throttle control is tance between the capscrew in the return-spring
bracket and the governor arm hole that is far-
being replaced, removed and reinstalled, or if a new
or rebuilt engine is being installed. thest from the governor shaft.
On L10s, with the governor arm pointing upward
and chock the tires. at 15 degrees aft of vertical, measure the dis-
tance between the capscrew in the return-spring
2. Remove the radiator grille. bracket and the governor arm hole that is far-
thest from the governor shaft. Include the thick-
ness of the bracket capscrew in this measure-
ment.
4. Install the spring bracket (if not already installed).
This distance (the length of the installed springs
On L10s, attach the bracket to the tapped (met- at idle) must be 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248
ric) hole on the left side of the engine block, just mm). If the distance is not within this tolerance,
below the fuel filter mounting bracket capscrew, remove the nut, washer, and pinch bolt from the
and above the pipe plug hole for the oil pressure governor arm. Remove the arm by spreading the
pickup. See Fig. 1. end of it with a screwdriver while pulling outward
on it. Install the arm (pointing upward) at an
On NTCs, attach the bracket to the next-to-the- angle that will provide the correct distance. Install
last boss on the left side of the engine block. and securely tighten the pinch bolt, washer, and
Use 9/16–18 capscrews and lockwashers; nut.
tighten the capscrews 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m). See
Fig. 2. 6. Install the jam nuts and spherical bearing rod
ends on the throttle rods. On the vertical throttle
rod, install a Kep nut and rod end on the lower
end. The rod ends should be adjusted to their
maximum thread engagement. Do not tighten the
1 jam nuts or Kep nut.
7. Install the return springs as follows:
7.1 If used springs are being installed, in-
spect them, especially in the area of the
anchor loops, for wear, nicks, or other
damage that may cause breakage. Install
new springs if the used springs are worn
or damaged.
NOTE: As a product improvement for longer
return spring service life, install a capscrew
2 in the governor arm and a capscrew in the
return spring bracket to hook the return
spring anchor loops around.
A 7.2 To install a capscrew in the governor arm,
04/12/2000 f300149a use two lockwashers, a nut, and a lock-
A. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm) nut, install a 5/16–18 capscrew through
1. Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket
the outboard-side of the spherical bearing
2. Oil Pressure Pickup rod end and the governor arm hole far-
thest from the governor shaft. See Fig. 3.
Fig. 1, Throttle-Return Springs and Spring Bracket Tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
(L10)

04/12/2000 f300151a
A. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm)

1. Next-To-Last Boss on the Engine Block
Fig. 2, Throttle-Return Springs and Spring Bracket (NTC)

7.4 Using a hook (do not use sharply ser-
rated pliers), place the opposite anchor
5 6 loop of each spring around the capscrew
3 4 4
1 2 in the governor arm. Don’t stretch the
7 springs any further than necessary.
8. Install the horizontal throttle rod on the bellcrank
as follows:
8.1 Hold the bellcrank so that the shorter arm
is at a 30 degree angle above horizontal.
8.2 Turn the rod end until the spherical bear-
ing bore is aligned with the hole nearest
the end of the longer bellcrank arm. See
08/24/93 f300223
Fig. 4.
1. 5/16–18 x 2-inch Capscrew
2. Throttle Return Springs
3. 5/16–18 Nut WARNING
4. 5/16 Lockwasher
5. Spherical Bearing Rod End When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least
6. Governor Arm 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod end must
7. 5/16–18 Locknut remain engaged in the rod. Anything less could
Fig. 3, Return Spring Capscrew Installation result in disengagement of the throttle linkage,
which could cause sudden loss of engine power,
7.3 Hook one end of each spring around the possibly resulting in personal injury or property
capscrew or through the hole in the damage.
return-spring bracket. 8.3 At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the
rod end must remain engaged in the rod.

bore of the rod end. From the outside,

insert the capscrew into the hole nearest
the end of the longer bellcrank arm. In-
stall and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m).
A
1 8.5 Hold the throttle rod in a position that pre-
2 vents other components from interfering
3 with the rod’s movement through full
travel. Turn each of the rod ends in the
direction opposite the rotation of the
throttle linkage. Hold the rod in this posi-
tion while tightening the rod-end jam nuts
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
9. Install the vertical throttle rod.
9.1 Insert the top of the vertical throttle rod in
the bottom of the throttle guide tube.
Slide the guide tube onto the vertical
4 throttle rod.
5 8 9 9.2 Install a flat washer on a 1/4–20 cap-
6 3 10 screw. From the inboard-side of the
7 shorter bellcrank arm, insert the capscrew
B 8
into the bore of the rod end and through
11 the bellcrank. Install and tighten the lock-
12 nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
9.3 Insert a 5/16–24 capscrew through the
throttle pedal arm, from the floor-board
side. Insert the capscrew into the bore of
the rod end. Install a locknut and tighten
it 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
04/12/2000 f300005
A. 50 degrees 9.4 Return the cab to the operating position.
B. 30 degrees For instructions, see Section 60.04, Sub-
1. Throttle Stop 8. Capscrew, Flat ject 060, in this manual.
Assembly Washer and Locknut
2. Pedal Throttle Arm 9. Externally Threaded
3. 5/16–24 Jam Nut Spherical Bearing vertical throttle rod. See Fig. 4.
4. Throttle Guide Tube Rod End 9.6 Turn the vertical throttle rod until the
5. Vertical Throttle Rod 10. Horizontal Throttle throttle pedal is at an angle of approxi-
6. Kep Nut Rod
mately 50 degrees to the cab deck. See
7. Internally Threaded 11. Bellcrank
Spherical Bearing 12. Shoulder Bolt and Fig. 4.
Rod End Locknut
Fig. 4, Spherical Bearing Bore Alignment

WARNING
If more adjustment is needed than can be When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least
made at the bellcrank end of the rod, turn 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must re-
the rod as needed, to change the thread main engaged in the rod end. Anything less
engagement at the governor-arm end. could result in disengagement of the throttle link-
8.4 Install a flat washer on a 5/16–24 cap- power, possibly resulting in personal injury or
screw, then insert the capscrew into the property damage.


made between the vertical throttle rod
and the spherical bearing rod end, tighten
the Kep nut at the bottom of the vertical
throttle rod. Loosen the jam nut at the top
of the vertical throttle guide tube, and turn
the guide tube as needed.
ject 120.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Throttle Pedal Angle Is Too High at Idle
The vertical throttle linkage is too long, or Adjust the length of the throttle linkage, then adjust the pedal stop.
the horizontal throttle linkage is too short.
Problem—Throttle Pedal Angle Is Too Low at Idle

Adjust the length of the throttle linkage, The vertical throttle linkage is too short, or the horizontal throttle linkage is too
then adjust the pedal stop. short.
Problem—Excessive Play in the Throttle Pedal

One of the throttle linkage attachment Tighten the throttle linkage attachment capscrews.
capscrews is loose.
Problem—Engine Does Not Reach Maximum Horsepower

capscrews is loose.
Interference with the throttle linkage is Engine components are interfering with the full travel of the throttle linkage.
preventing the governor arm from reaching Reposition the components, or the horizontal throttle linkage.
the breakover range.
At idle, the throttle pedal angle is too low. Adjust the length of the throttle linkage, then adjust the pedal stop.
The pedal stop is set too high. Adjust the position of the pedal stop if it is not allowing full travel of the
governor arm (into the breakover range).
Problem—Engine Does Not Return to Idle RPM When the Throttle Pedal Is Released
preventing the governor arm from Reposition the components, or the horizontal throttle linkage.
returning to the idle position.
The installed length of the throttle-return Check the distance between the spring mounting points. Reposition the
springs is too short. governor arm as necessary.
The throttle-return springs are too long Remove the throttle-return springs and check them for stretching. If the
(stretched). springs are stretched, install new springs.

Troubleshooting
The throttle-return springs are broken. Install new throttle-return springs.
Problem—Excessive Resistance at the Throttle Pedal

The throttle linkage is rubbing against Engine components are interfering with the throttle linkage. Reposition the
engine components. components, or the horizontal throttle linkage.
Engine components are interfering with the Reposition the components. Check the return springs for damage, and replace
throttle-return springs. if necessary.
The spherical bearing rod ends at each Reposition both rod ends.
end of the horizontal throttle rod are
rotated to their opposite limits.

Cummins Engine Mechanical Throttle Control, FLD 120 30.01
General Information
General Information be at the correct angle when the engine is at idle

Freightliner throttle controls have a floor-mounted of spherical bearing rod ends, with the adjustment
throttle pedal, an adjustable-length throttle rod, dual
return springs, and an adjustable pedal stop. See ings prevent binding of the linkage.
Fig. 1.
14
1
15
2
B
3
4
10
9
6 7 8
5
12
A 15
11
13 4
7
8
14
04/12/2000 f300105a
A. Return spring installation with capscrews
B. Return spring installation without capscrews
1. Return-Spring Bracket 6. 5/16–18 Hexnut 11. Pedal Throttle Arm
2. Return Springs 7. Spherical Bearing Rod End 12. Throttle Pedal
3. Governor Arm 8. Jam Nut 13. Pedal Stop
4. Lockwasher 9. 5/16–18 Locknut 14. 5/16–24 Locknut
5. 5/16–18 Capscrew 10. Throttle Rod 15. 5/16–24 Capscrew
Fig. 1, Throttle Control Parts (L10)

During engine operation, movement of the throttle Dual springs return the throttle control parts to their
pedal and linkage will change the amount of fuel idle positions when the pedal is released.

30.01 Cummins Engine Mechanical Throttle Control, FLD 120
General Information
2 1
3 2
3
07/26/94 f300002

2. Jam Nut

shaft has moved as far as the shaft rotation will al-
low, the force applied at the pedal overcomes the
or governor arm could be damaged. An adjustable
pedal stop prevents movement of the linkage beyond
the governor arm’s breakover range.

Throttle Control Operation necessary. Disconnect the opposite ends

from the spring bracket.
Checking 8.2 Inspect the springs, especially in the area
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, of the anchor loops, for wear, nicks, or
and chock the tires. other damage that might cause breakage.
2. Open the hood. 8.3 Measure the springs for stretching. The
relaxed spring should be no more than
3. Check the linkage attachment fasteners (cap- 9-3/8 inches (238 mm) long, from the out-
screws, locknuts, and jam nuts) for tightness; side of one anchor loop to the outside of
tighten any that are loose. the opposite anchor loop.
4. Operate the throttle pedal by hand, from idle to 8.4 If the used springs are worn, damaged, or
maximum horsepower, while checking that noth- stretched, install new springs.
ing interferes with movement of the linkage.
8.5 Install the springs by hooking one end of
5. Check the linkage for binding, by rotating the rod each spring around the capscrew or
in and out. With the rod-end jam nuts tight through the hole in the return-spring
against the rod, both rod ends must be free to bracket. Then, using the hook, place the
swivel on their spherical bearings. If the rod and opposite anchor loop of each spring
rod ends do not rotate in and out, adjust the rod around the capscrew or through the hole
ends and jam nuts as follows: in the governor arm.
5.1 Loosen the jam nuts at each end of the 9. With the governor arm at idle, check the angle of
throttle rod. See Fig. 1. the throttle pedal. The pedal must be at an angle
of about 50 degrees to the cab deck. See Fig. 3.
5.2 Turn the throttle rod to a position that pre-
If the throttle pedal angle is too high or too low,
adjust the length of the throttle linkage. See Sub-
with the rod’s movement through full
ject 110.
travel.
10. Operate the throttle pedal by hand, from idle
5.3 Hold the throttle rod in this position and
through full travel, while checking that the gover-
ends in the direction opposite the rotation
over range.
of the throttle linkage. Hold the rod in this
position while tightening the rod-end jam The breakover range begins at the point where
nuts 15 lb·ft (20 N·m). the two parts of the governor arm begin to have
intersecting centerlines. See Fig. 4.
6. Operate the linkage by hand, from idle to maxi-
mum horsepower, while checking that nothing If the governor arm does not travel at least 5 de-
interferes with movement of the return springs. grees into the breakover range, adjust the pedal
Reposition any parts that interfere. stop. See Subject 120.
7. Check the length of the installed return springs. 11. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
When the throttle lever is at idle, the springs tires.
must be 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm)
long. See Fig. 2. If the spring length is incorrect, 12. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
see Subject 130. system operates properly.
8. Inspect the return springs.

rated pliers), disconnect the anchor loop
of each spring from the governor arm. Do
not stretch the springs any further than

3
6
7 8
08/24/93 f300011a
1. Governor Arm 4. Pedal Stop 7. Rod-End Jam Nut
2. Rod-End Jam Nut 5. Cab Deck 8. Throttle Pedal Arm
3. Throttle Rod 6. Upper Rod End 9. Throttle Pedal
Fig. 1, Throttle Rod Installation
1 3
04/12/2000
A f300139a
A. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm)
1. Return-Spring Bracket
2. Governor Arm at Idle
3. Vertical Centerline of the Governor Shaft
Fig. 2, Return Spring Length (L10)

1
2
3
A
04/12/2000 f300003
A. 50 degrees
1. Pedal Stop Capscrew
2. Jam Nut
3. Cab Deck
4. Throttle Pedal
Fig. 3, Throttle Pedal at Idle
8
1
7
6
5
4
04/12/2000
A f300138a
A. 5 degrees
1. Throttle-Return 5. Capscrew
Springs 6. Spherical Bearing
2. Governor Arm Rod End
3. Governor Arm 7. Jam Nut
Breakover Spring 8. Throttle Rod
4. Return Spring and
Throttle Linkage
Mounting Hole
Fig. 4, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (L10)

Throttle Linkage Length 6. With the governor arm at idle, turn the lower rod
end, until the spherical bearing bore is aligned
Adjustment with the lower hole on the governor arm.
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, WARNING

2. Open the hood. When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least
5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod end must
3. Loosen the jam nuts at each end of the throttle remain engaged in the rod. Anything less could
rod. See Fig. 1.
3
6
7 8
08/24/93 f300011a
1. Governor Arm 4. Pedal Stop 7. Rod-End Jam Nut
2. Rod-End Jam Nut 5. Cab Deck 8. Throttle Pedal Arm
3. Throttle Rod 6. Upper Rod End 9. Throttle Pedal
Fig. 1, Throttle Linkage Length Adjustment

4. Remove the locknut, flat washer, and capscrew result in disengagement of the throttle linkage,
from the governor arm and spherical bearing rod which could cause sudden loss of engine power,
end. possibly resulting in personal injury or property
damage.
5. Block the throttle pedal at an angle of approxi-
mately 50 degrees to the cab deck. 7. At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the rod
end must remain engaged in the rod. If more ad-
justment is needed than can be made at the gov-

ernor arm, turn the rod as needed, to change the

thread engagement of the upper rod end.
8. Insert a capscrew into the bore of the lower rod
end. Install a flat washer on the capscrew. Insert
the capscrew through the bottom governor arm
hole. Install and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m).
9. Turn the throttle rod to a position that prevents
other components from interfering with the rod’s
movement through full travel. Hold the throttle
rod in this position and turn each of the spherical
bearing rod ends in the direction opposite the
rotation of the throttle linkage. Hold the rod in
this position while tightening the rod-end jam
ject 120.
tires.


2
the checks in Subject 100 before adjusting the
pedal stop.
3
2. Open the hood.
3. Loosen the pedal stop jam nut, and turn the cap- 8
screw in until no threads are showing above or 1
mum pedal travel.
7
6
5
4
1 04/12/2000
A f300138a
2
A. 5 degrees
1. Throttle-Return 5. Capscrew
4 Springs 6. Spherical Bearing
Breakover Spring 8. Throttle Rod
4. Return Spring And
Throttle Linkage
Mounting Hole
3
A Fig. 2, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (L10)
04/12/2000 f300003
A. 50 degrees
2. Jam Nut
3. Cab Deck
4. Throttle Pedal
Fig. 1, Pedal Stop Installation

4. Hold the throttle pedal at the point where the
centerlines of the two parts of the governor arm
cab deck. See Fig. 1.
6. Operate the pedal to check the adjustment. Re-
adjust if necessary.
tires


5 6
Use the following procedure if the throttle control is 3 4 4
being replaced, removed and reinstalled, or if a new 1 2
7
or rebuilt engine is being installed.
2. Open the hood.
On L10s, remove the lower capscrew that at-
taches the air compressor support to the acces-
08/24/93 f300223
sory drive, and use the capscrew to attach the
bracket to the compressor support. 1. 5/16–18 Capscrew
On NTCs, remove the lower capscrew that at- 3. 5/16–18 Nut
taches the air compressor crankcase to the air 4. 5/16 Lockwasher
compressor support, and use the capscrew to 5. Spherical Bearing Rod End
attach the bracket to the air compressor. 6. Governor Arm
7. 5/16–18 Locknut
4. Install the jam nuts and spherical bearing rod
ends on the throttle rod. The rod ends should be Fig. 1, Rod End Installation
adjusted to their maximum thread engagement. on it. Install the arm (pointing downward) at an
Do not tighten the jam nuts. angle that will provide the correct distance. Install
5. Using two lockwashers, a nut, and a locknut, in- and securely tighten the pinch bolt, washer, and
stall a 5/16–18 capscrew through the outboard nut.
side of the spherical bearing rod end and the
governor arm hole farthest from the governor
shaft. See Fig. 1. Tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m). 2
6. Hold the throttle pedal at an angle of approxi-
7. On NTCs, with the governor arm pointing down- A
ward at 10 degrees aft of vertical (see Fig. 2), 3
measure the distance between the capscrew in
the return-spring bracket and the governor arm
capscrew. Include the thickness of the capscrews
in this measurement. 1
On L10s, with the governor arm pointing down-
ward at 15 ± 2 degrees forward of vertical (see B
Fig. 3), measure the distance between the cap- 04/12/2000 f300140a
screw in the return-spring bracket and the gover-
A. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm)
nor arm capscrew. B. 10 degrees
This distance (the length of the installed springs 1. Return-Spring Bracket
at idle) must be 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 2. Throttle Rod
mm). If the distance is not within this tolerance, 3. Governor Arm at Idle
remove the nut, washer, and pinch bolt from the Fig. 2, Governor Arm Position (NTC)
governor arm. Remove the arm by spreading the
end of it with a screwdriver while pulling outward 8. Install the return springs.


possibly resulting in personal injury or property
damage.
10. At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the rod
2 ernor arm, turn the rod as needed, to change the
A 11. Insert a capscrew into the bore of the lower rod

end. Install a flatwasher on the capscrew. Insert
the capscrew through the bottom governor arm
hole. Install and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m).
3 12. Turn the throttle rod to a position that prevents
1 other components from interfering with the rod’s
04/12/2000 B f300107a
movement through full travel.
A. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm)
B. 15 ± 2 degrees 13. Hold the throttle rod in this position and turn
1. Return-Spring Bracket each of the spherical bearing rod ends in the di-
2. Governor Arm at Idle rection opposite the rotation of the throttle link-
3. Throttle Rod age. Hold the rod in this position while tightening
the rod-end jam nuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Fig. 3, Governor Arm Position (L10)
8.1 If used springs are being installed, in- ject 120.
spect them, especially in the area of the
anchor loops, for wear, nicks, or other 15. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
damage that may cause breakage. Install tires
new springs if the used springs are worn 16. Test drive the vehicle and ensure proper opera-
or damaged. tion of the throttle system.
8.2 Hook one end of each spring around the
capscrew in the return-spring bracket.
rated pliers) place the opposite anchor
loop of each spring around the capscrew
in the governor arm. Don’t stretch the
springs any further than necessary.
9. With the throttle pedal and the governor arm in
the idle position, turn the lower rod end, until the
spherical bearing bore is aligned with the bottom
hole on the governor arm.
WARNING
remain engaged in the rod. Anything less could
result in disengagement of the throttle linkage,

Troubleshooting
The throttle linkage is too long. Adjust the length of the throttle linkage, then adjust the pedal stop.

The throttle linkage is too short. Adjust the length of the throttle linkage, then adjust the pedal stop.

capscrews is loose.

capscrews is loose.
preventing the governor arm from reaching Reposition the components.
preventing the governor arm from Reposition the components.

Troubleshooting

engine components. components.
end of the throttle rod are rotated to their
opposite limits.

Caterpillar Engine Mechanical Throttle Control, FLA/FLB 30.02
General Information
General Information
throttle pedal, adjustable-length throttle rods, a strut-
mounted bellcrank, dual return springs, and an ad-
justable pedal stop. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. On Cater-
pillar 3306 engines, the two-piece governor arm, right
throttle rod, and cross-shaft assembly are installed
by the engine manufacturer. See Fig. 1.
ernor. Caterpillar governor arms consist of two parts
shaft has moved as far as the shaft rotation will
allow, the force applied at the pedal overcomes the
or governor could be damaged. An adjustable pedal
stop prevents movement of the linkage beyond the
governor arm’s breakover range.

30.02 Caterpillar Engine Mechanical Throttle Control, FLA/FLB
General Information
20
4 21
2 3
5
7 6 18
1 21
20 B
A
8
19 18
17
9
10
4
11 7
13
12
16
15
14
13
7 4
08/24/93 f300153a
A. Return spring installation with capscrew
1. Pedal Stop 8. Throttle Guide Tube 15. Cross-Shaft Assembly
2. Throttle Pedal 9. Vertical Throttle Rod 16. Right Cross-Shaft Arm
3. Self-Locking Nut 10. Kep Nut 17. Right Horizontal Throttle Rod
4. Externally Threaded Spherical 11. Internally Threaded Spherical 18. Governor Arm
Bearing Rod End Bearing Rod End 19. 1/4–20 Capscrew
5. Hexhead Bolt 12. Bellcrank 20. Return Springs
6. Pedal Throttle Arm 13. Left Horizontal Throttle Rod 21. Return-Spring Bracket
7. 5/16–24 Jam Nut 14. Left Cross-Shaft Arm
Fig. 1, Throttle Linkage (3306)

General Information
2
3
5 14
4
7 6 16
8
1 17
9
10
11 4
7
A
12 13
15
7
4
16
14 17
B
08/24/93 f300152a
1. Pedal Stop 7. 5/16–24 Jam Nut 12. Bellcrank
3. Self-Locking Nut 9. Vertical Throttle Rod 14. Governor Arm
Bearing Rod End 11. Internally Threaded Spherical 16. Return Springs
5. Hexhead Bolt Bearing Rod End 17. Return-Spring Bracket

General Information
2 1
3 2
3
07/26/94 f300002

2. Jam Nut
Fig. 3, Spherical Bearings

Throttle Control Operation tion opposite the rotation of the throttle rod.
Tighten the jam nuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Checking 7. Inspect the return springs.
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, 7.1 Using a hook (do not use sharply serrated
and chock the tires. pliers), disconnect the anchor loop of each
2. Tilt the cab. For instructions, see Section 60.04, spring from the governor arm. See Fig. 1,
Subject 060, in this manual. and Fig. 2. Do not stretch the springs any
further than necessary. Disconnect the
3. Check the linkage attachment fasteners (cap- opposite ends from the spring bracket.
screws, locknuts, and hexnuts) for tightness;
tighten any that are loose. On Caterpillar 3306 3
engines, also check the cross-shaft attachment
fasteners for tightness, and tighten as needed.
Check the tightness of the bellcrank shoulder
bolt and locknut, and the bellcrank attaching cap- 1 2
screw tightness; if loose, tighten the locknut or
08/24/93 f300142a
mum horsepower, while checking that nothing 1. Return-Spring Bracket
interferes with its movement. On Caterpillar 3306 2. Throttle-Return Springs
engines, be sure that none of the engine parts 3. Governor Arm
interfere with rotation of the cross-shaft arms.
Reposition any parts that interfere. Fig. 1, Throttle-Return Springs at Idle Position (3306)
5. On Caterpillar 3306 engines, check the left

throttle rod for binding, by rotating the rod in and
out. With the rod-end jam nuts tight against the 1
rod, both rod ends must be free to swivel on
their spherical bearings. If the rod and rod ends
do not rotate in and out, back off the jam nut at
the cross-shaft end of the rod. Turn the loosened
rod end until its flat faces are parallel to the flat
faces of the rod end at the bellcrank.
Hold the rod and rod end in these positions while 3
tightening the jam nut (at the cross-shaft end of
the rod) 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). 08/24/93
2 f300141a
Move the right throttle rod by hand, from idle to 1. Return-Spring Bracket
maximum horsepower, while checking that noth- 2. Governor Arm
ing interferes with movement of the return 3. Throttle-Return Springs
springs. Reposition any parts that interfere.
Fig. 2, Throttle-Return Springs at Idle Position (3406)
6. On Caterpillar 3406 engines, check the horizon-
tal throttle rod for binding by rotating the rod in 7.2 Inspect the springs, especially in the area
and out. Loosen the rod-end jam nuts. of the anchor loops, for wear, nicks, or
Rotate the throttle rod to a position that will pre- other damage that might cause breakage.
vent other components from interfering with its 7.3 Measure the springs for stretching. The
movement through full travel. relaxed spring should be no more than
Hold the throttle rod in this position, and rotate 9-3/8 inches (238 mm) long, from the out-
each of the spherical bearing rod ends in a direc- side of one anchor loop to the outside of
the opposite anchor loop.

7.4 If the used springs are worn, damaged, or On Caterpillar 3306 engines, you can see the
stretched, install new springs. governor arm by looking between the bottom of
the cab deck and the top of the frame rail above
7.5 Install the springs by hooking one end of
the right front tire.
each spring around the capscrew or
through the hole in the return-spring On Caterpillar 3406 engines, you cannot see the
bracket; then, using the hook, place the governor arm when the cab is in the operating
opposite anchor loop of each spring position. To check that the governor arm has
around the capscrew or through the hole reached the approximate middle of the breakover
in the governor arm. range, operate the throttle pedal near the lower
end of its travel. With your hand, you should be
8. With the cab in the operating position, and the
governor arm at idle, check the angle of the able to feel the increased resistance that occurs
throttle pedal. The pedal must be at an angle of when the governor shaft stops rotating and the
approximately 50 degrees to the cab deck. See breakover spring allows the governor arm to
Fig. 3. move into the breakover range. If the throttle
pedal contacts the pedal stop before any in-
If the throttle pedal angle is too high or too low, creased resistance is felt, the breakover range is
adjust the length of the throttle linkage. See Sub- not being reached.
ject 110.
If the governor arm does not reach the approxi-
mate middle of the breakover range, adjust the
pedal stop. See Subject 120.
1
2
3
A A
04/12/2000 f300003
A. 50 degrees 08/24/93 f300145a
1. Pedal Stop Capscrew A. The tang must be in the approximate center of the
2. Jam Nut opening
3. Cab Deck
4. Throttle Pedal
Fig. 4, Check the Tang Position (3306)
Fig. 3, Throttle Pedal at Idle 11. Return the cab to the operating position. For in-
this manual.
nor arm reaches the approximate middle of the 12. Remove the chocks from the tires.
breakover range. 13. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
10. When the middle of the breakover range is system operates properly.
reached, a tang on the governor arm will move
to the center of an opening in the governor arm.
See Fig. 4, or Fig. 5.

08/24/93 f300143a
A. The tang must be in the approximate center of the

opening
Fig. 5, Check the Tang Position (3406 )

Throttle Linkage Length

Adjustment
CATERPILLAR 3306 ENGINES A
1
2. Remove the radiator grille.
3. With the governor arm at idle, check the angle of
the bellcrank. The shorter arm of the bellcrank
must be at an angle of approximately 30 degrees
2
above horizontal. See Fig. 1.
If the bellcrank is positioned correctly, proceed to
the step for returning the cab to the operating 3
position.
If the bellcrank is not positioned correctly, pro-
ceed to the step for repositioning the cross-shaft
arm. 4
6
5
B
5. With the governor arm at idle, check the angle of 7
the left cross-shaft arm. The left arm must be
pointing downward at an angle of approximately
13 degrees aft of vertical. See Fig. 2.
If the left cross-shaft arm is positioned correctly,
proceed to the step for returning the cab to the
operating position.
04/12/2000 f300025a
If the left cross-shaft arm is not positioned cor- A. 50 degrees
rectly, proceed to the next step. B. 30 degrees
6. Loosen the pinch-bolt nut. Spread the slotted 1. Throttle Pedal 5. Kep Nut
end of the arm with a screwdriver, while pulling 2. Cab Deck 6. Horizontal Throttle
outward on the arm, to remove it. Install the arm 3. Throttle Guide Tube Rod
at the correct angle, as shown in Fig. 2. Tighten 4. Vertical Throttle Rod 7. Bellcrank
the pinch-bolt nut, then proceed to the step for
returning the cab to the operating position. Fig. 1, Check the Bellcrank
IMPORTANT: Do not change the length of the 7.3 Hold the bellcrank so that the shorter arm
right throttle rod, and do not reposition the gov- is at a 30 degree angle above horizontal.
ernor arm or right cross-shaft arm. 7.4 With the governor arm at idle, turn the rod
7. Adjust the length of the left (horizontal) throttle until the spherical bearing bore is aligned
rod as follows: with the hole nearest the end of the longer
bellcrank arm. See Fig. 1.
7.1 Back off the jam nuts at each end of the
throttle rod.
7.2 Remove the locknut, flat washer, and cap-
screw that attach the left throttle rod to the
long arm of the bellcrank.


15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
follows:
1
WARNING
04/12/2000 A f300026a could result in disengagement of the throttle link-
A. 13 degrees age, which could cause sudden loss of engine
1. Left-Side Cross-Shaft Arm
property damage.
Fig. 2, Check the Angle of the Cross-Shaft Arm 8.3 At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the
WARNING If more adjustment is needed than can be
made between the vertical throttle rod and
When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least the spherical bearing rod end, tighten the
5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must re- Kep nut at the bottom of the vertical
main engaged in the rod end. Anything less throttle rod. Then, loosen the jam nut at
could result in disengagement of the throttle link- the top of the throttle guide tube and turn
age, which could cause sudden loss of engine the guide tube as needed.
property damage.
7.5 At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the 9. Return the cab to the operating position. For in-
rod must remain engaged in the rod end. structions, see Section 60.04, Section 060, in
If more adjustment is needed than can be this manual.
made at the bellcrank end of the rod, turn
the rod as needed, to change the thread 10. Adjust the pedal stop. For instructions, see Sub-
engagement of the rod end at the cross- ject 120.
shaft arm. 11. Install the radiator grille.
7.6 Install a flat washer on the 5/16–24 cap- 12. Remove the chocks from the tires.
screw, then insert the capscrew into the
bore of the rod end. From the outside, in- 13. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
sert the capscrew into the hole nearest system operates properly.
Fig. 1. Install and tighten the locknut 15 CATERPILLAR 3406
lbf·ft (20 N·m). 1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake,
7.7 Hold the throttle rod and turn each of the and chock the tires.
rod ends so that the flat faces of both 2. With the cab in the operating position, remove
ends are parallel. Hold the rod in this posi- the radiator grille.

20
4 21
2 3
5
7 6 18
1 21
20 B
A
8
19 18
17
9
10
4
11 7
13
12
16
15
14
13
7 4
08/24/93 f300153a
1. Pedal Stop 8. Throttle Guide Tube 15. Cross-Shaft Assembly
2. Throttle Pedal 9. Vertical Throttle Rod 16. Right Cross-Shaft Arm
3. Self-Locking Nut 10. Kep Nut 17. Right Horizontal Throttle Rod
4. Externally Threaded Spherical 11. Internally Threaded Spherical 18. Governor Arm
Bearing Rod End Bearing Rod End 19. 1/4–20 Capscrew
5. Hexhead Bolt 12. Bellcrank 20. Return Springs
6. Pedal Throttle Arm 13. Left Horizontal Throttle Rod 21. Return-Spring Bracket
7. 5/16–24 Jam Nut 14. Left Cross-Shaft Arm
3. When the governor arm is at idle, check the 4. If the bellcrank is positioned correctly, proceed to
angle of the bellcrank. The shorter arm of the the step for returning the cab to the operating
bellcrank must be at an angle of approximately position.
30 degrees above horizontal. See Fig. 1.

If the bellcrank is not positioned correctly, adjust 5.1 Loosen the Kep nut at the bottom of the
the length of the horizontal throttle rod as fol- vertical throttle rod. See Fig. 4.
lows:
4.1 Tilt the cab. For instructions, see Sec- throttle pedal is at an angle of approxi-
tion 60.04, Subject 060, in this manual. mately 50 degrees to the cab deck.
4.2 Loosen the jam nuts ( Fig. 4) at each end
of the throttle rod. WARNING
4.3 Remove the locknut, flat washer, and cap- When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least
screw that attach the spherical bearing rod 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must re-
end to the long arm of the bellcrank. main engaged in the rod end. Anything less
is at an angle of 30 degrees above hori-
zontal.
property damage.
4.5 With the governor arm at idle, turn the rod
end until the spherical bearing bore is
aligned with the hole nearest the end of
the longer bellcrank arm.
made between the vertical throttle rod and
the spherical bearing rod end, tighten the
WARNING Kep nut at the bottom of the throttle rod.
Loosen the jam nut at the top of the
When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least throttle guide tube and turn the guide tube
5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must reas needed.
could result in disengagement of the throttle link- 5.4 Tighten the jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
age, which could cause sudden loss of engine Tighten the Kep nut 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm).
power, possibly resulting in personal injury or 6. Return the cab to the operating position. For in-
property damage. structions, see Section 60.04, Subject 060, in
4.6 At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the this manual.
rod must remain engaged in the rod end. 7. Adjust the pedal stop. For instructions, see Sub-
If more adjustment is needed than can be ject 120.
made at the bellcrank end of the rod, turn
the rod as needed to change the thread 8. Install the radiator grille.
engagement of the rod end at the gover- 9. Remove the chocks from the tires.
nor arm.
10. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
4.7 Install a flat washer on the attaching cap- system operates properly.
screw, then insert the capscrew into the
bore of the rod end. From the outside, in-
sert the capscrew into the hole nearest
the end of the longer bellcrank arm. Install
4.8 Hold the throttle rod and turn each of the
rod ends so that the flat faces of both
ends are parallel. Hold the rod in this posi-
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
follows:

2
3
5 14
4
7 6 16
8
1 17
9
10
11 4
7
A
12 13
15
7
4
16
14 17
B
08/24/93 f300152a
1. Pedal Stop 7. 5/16–24 Jam Nut 12. Bellcrank
3. Self-Locking Nut 9. Vertical Throttle Rod 14. Governor Arm
Bearing Rod End 11. Internally Threaded Spherical 16. Return Springs
5. Hexhead Bolt Bearing Rod End 17. Return-Spring Bracket

Pedal Stop Adjustment ing position. To check that the governor arm has
reached the approximate middle of the break-
NOTE: If the throttle linkage is not new, perform over range, operate the throttle pedal near the
the checks under Subject 100 before adjusting lower end of its travel. With your hand, you
the pedal stop. should be able to feel the increased resistance
that occurs when the governor shaft stops rotat-
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, ing and the breakover spring allows the gover-
nor arm to move into the breakover range.
Subject 060, in this manual. 5. Position the head of the pedal stop capscrew
3. Loosen the pedal stop jam nut, and turn the cap- the pedal, and tighten the jam nut against the
screw in until no threads are showing above or cab deck. See Fig. 1.
mum pedal travel.
1
2
08/24/93 f300145a
3 A. The tang must be in the approximate center of the
A
opening
04/12/2000 f300003
A. 50 degrees Fig. 2, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (3306)
2. Jam Nut
3. Cab Deck
4. Throttle Pedal
Fig. 1, Pedal Stop Installation

A
4. Block the governor arm in the middle of its brea-
kover range.
NOTE: When the middle of the breakover range
is reached, a tang on the governor arm will
move to the center of an opening in the gover-
nor arm. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3. On Caterpillar
3306 engines, you can see the governor arm by 08/24/93 f300143a
looking between the bottom of the cab deck,
and the top of the frame rail above the right opening
front tire.
On Caterpillar 3406 engines, you cannot see Fig. 3, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (3406)
the governor arm when the cab is in the operat-

6. Remove the block from the governor arm. Oper-

ate the pedal, and check the adjustment. Read-
just if necessary.
this manual.
system operates properly.


Use the following procedure if the throttle control is 6
being replaced, removed and reinstalled, or if a new 5
or rebuilt engine is being installed. 4
CATERPILLAR 3306 3

and chock the tires. 2

3. Tilt the cab. For instructions, see Section 60.04, 1
Subject 060, in this manual. 08/24/93 f300221
4. Install the spring bracket (if not already installed). 1. 1/4–20 x 1-1/4 inch Capscrew
Remove the washer and capscrew from the front
3. 1/4–20 Nut
housing, and use the capscrew to attach the 4. Governor Arm
bracket to the front housing. Discard the washer. 5. 1/4–20 Locknut
5. Install the return springs as follows: 6. Spherical Bearing Rod End
5.1 If used springs are being installed, inspect Fig. 1, Return Spring Capscrew Installation
them, especially in the area of the anchor
loops, for wear, nicks, or other damage pulling outward on the arm, to remove it. Install
that may cause breakage. Install new the arm at the correct angle, as shown in Fig. 2.
springs if the used springs are worn or Tighten the pinch-bolt nut.
damaged.
capscrew in the return spring bracket or
into a hole in the bracket.
service life, install a capscrew in the gover-
nor arm to hook the return spring anchor
loops around.
5.3 Using a 1/4–20 nut and a 1/4–20 locknut,
install a 1/4–20 capscrew through the in- 1
board side of the aft hole of the governor
arm. See Fig. 1.
5.4 Using a hook (do not use sharply serrated
pliers) place the opposite anchor loop of
each spring around the capscrew in the A
04/12/2000 f300026a
governor arm. Don’t stretch the springs
any further than necessary. A. 13 degrees
6. With the governor arm at idle, check the angle of 1. Left-Side Cross-Shaft Arm
the left cross-shaft arm. The left arm must be
pointing downward at an angle of approximately Fig. 2, Check the Angle of the Cross-Shaft Arm
13 degrees aft of vertical. See Fig. 2.
IMPORTANT: Do not change the length of the
If not, loosen the pinch-bolt nut, then spread the right throttle rod, and do not reposition the gov-
slotted end of the arm with a screwdriver, while ernor arm or right cross-shaft arm.

7. Install the jam nuts on the externally threaded

spherical bearing rod ends, as far as they will go.
Install a rod end on each end of the horizontal
throttle rod. Turn the rod ends into the throttle
rods until the distance from the center of each A
spherical bearing bore to its end of the rod is
1-3/16 inches (30 mm). See Fig. 3. 1 2
On the vertical throttle rod, install a jam nut and 3

rod end on the upper end. See Fig. 4.
A
1
2
04/12/2000 3 f300027a
A. 1-3/16 inches (30 mm)

5
1. Throttle Rod 6 8 9 3
10
2. Jam Nut 7
3. Spherical Bearing Rod End 8
B
11
Fig. 3, Rod End Installation
12
8. Install a flat washer on a 5/16–24 capscrew.
From the outboard-side of the left cross-shaft
arm, insert the capscrew into the bore of the rod
end; then insert the capscrew through the bottom
hole of the cross-shaft arm. Install and tighten
the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). 04/12/2000 f300008a
9. Install the horizontal throttle rod on the bellcrank. A. 50 degrees

B. 30 degrees
1. Pedal Stop 8. Capscrew, Flat
is at an approximately 30 degree angle
Assembly Washer, and Locknut
above horizontal. 2. Pedal Throttle Arm 9. Externally Threaded
9.2 Turn the rod end until the spherical bear- 3. 5/16–24 Jam Nut Spherical Bearing
ing bore is aligned with the hole nearest 4. Throttle Guide Tube Rod End
5. Vertical Throttle Rod 10. Horizontal Throttle
6. Kep Nut Rod and Locknut
Fig. 4. 7. Internally Threaded 11. Bellcrank
Spherical Bearing 12. Shoulder Bolt
WARNING Rod End
When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least Fig. 4, Vertical Throttle Rod Installation
main engaged in the rod end. Anything less 9.3 At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the
could result in disengagement of the throttle link- rod must remain engaged in the rod end.
age, which could cause sudden loss of engine If more adjustment is needed than can be
power, possibly resulting in personal injury or made at the bellcrank end of the rod, turn
property damage. the rod as needed to change the thread
engagement at the cross-shaft end.

9.4 Install a flat washer on a 5/16–24 cap- If more adjustment is needed than can be
screw, then insert the capscrew into the made between the vertical throttle rod and
bore of the rod end. From the outside, in- the spherical bearing rod end, tighten the
sert the capscrew into the hole nearest Kep nut at the bottom of the vertical
the end of the longer bellcrank arm. Install throttle rod. Loosen the jam nut at the top
and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). of the throttle guide tube, and turn the
throttle guide tube as needed.
9.5 Hold the throttle rod and turn each of the
rod ends so that the flat faces of both 10.8 Tighten the jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
ends are parallel. Hold the rod in this posi- Tighten the Kep nut 84 lbf·in (940 N·cm).
tion while tightening the rod-end jam nuts 11. Adjust the pedal stop. For instructions, see Sub-
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). ject 120.
10. Install the vertical throttle rod. 12. Install the radiator grille.
10.1 Insert the top of the vertical throttle rod 13. Remove the chocks from the tires.
into the bottom of the throttle guide tube.
Slide the guide tube onto the vertical 14. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
throttle rod. system operates properly.
10.2 Install a flat washer on a 1/4–20 cap- CATERPILLAR 3406
screw. From the inboard-side of the
shorter bellcrank arm, insert the capscrew 1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake,
into the bore of the rod end and through and chock the tires.
the bellcrank. Install and tighten the lock-
10.3 Insert a 5/16–24 capscrew through the Subject 060, in this manual.
throttle pedal arm, from the floorboard
side. Insert the capscrew into the bore of 4. Install the spring bracket (if not already installed).
the rod end. Install a locknut and tighten it Remove the upper capscrew that attaches the
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). fuel injection pump housing to the drive housing,
and use the bolt to attach the bracket to the
10.4 Return the cab to the operating position. pump housing.
For instructions, see Section 60.04, Sub-
ject 060, in this manual. NOTE: As a product improvement for longer
service life, if the return spring anchor loops
hook through a hole in the return spring bracket,
replace the bracket with the current model
10.6 Turn the vertical throttle rod until the bracket. Current brackets hold a capscrew, and
throttle pedal is at an angle of approxi- the spring anchor loops hook around the cap-
mately 50 degrees to the cab deck. screw. For the current return spring bracket part
number for your vehicle, contact a Freightliner
WARNING dealer.
When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least 5. Check the position of the governor arm in the
5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must re- governor disc. The governor arm must be at-
main engaged in the rod end. Anything less tached at the hole marked "S" in the disc. See
could result in disengagement of the throttle link- Fig. 5. If necessary, reposition the arm.
age, which could cause sudden loss of engine 5.1 Loosen the capscrew that attaches the
power, possibly resulting in personal injury or arm to the disc.
property damage.
5.2 Rotate the arm to the position where the
10.7 At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the hole in the arm is aligned with the hole
rod must remain engaged in the rod end. that is marked "S" in the disc.

that may cause breakage. Install new

1 springs if the used springs are worn or
damaged.
A
2
loops around.
3 install a 1/4–20 capscrew in the aft hole of
12/08/93 f300144a the governor arm. See Fig. 7.
A. Attach the governor arm to the governor disc at hole
"S"
1. Return Spring Bracket 5
3. Governor Arm 4
Fig. 5, Throttle-Return Springs at Idle Position (3406) 3

6
5.3 Tighten the capscrew, then push the long
part of the governor arm into the break- 2
over range. The breakover range is
reached when the tang on one part of the
arm is centered in the opening in the other
part of the arm. See Fig. 6. 1
08/24/93 f300222
1. 1/4–20 x 1-1/2 inch Capscrew
3. 1/4–20 Nut
4. Governor Arm
5. 1/4–20 Locknut
6. Spherical Bearing Rod End
A Fig. 7, Return Spring Capscrew Installation
6.4 Using a hook (do not use sharply serrated

pliers ) Place the opposite anchor loop of
each spring around the capscrew in the
governor arm. Don’t stretch the springs
any further than necessary.
05/02/2000 f300143b
7. Install the jam nuts on the externally threaded
opening spherical bearing rod ends, as far as they will go.
Install a rod end on each end of the horizontal
Fig. 6, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (3406) throttle rod. Turn the rod ends into the throttle
rods until the distance from the center of each
6. Install the return springs. spherical bearing bore to its end of the rod is
1-3/16 inches (30 mm). See Fig. 3.
6.1 If used springs are being installed, inspect
them, especially in the area of the anchor On the vertical throttle rod, install a jam nut and
loops, for wear, nicks, or other damage rod end on the upper end.

8. Install a flat washer on a 5/16–24 capscrew. into the bore of the rod end and through
From the outboard-side of the governor arm, in- the bellcrank. Install and tighten the lock-
sert the bolt into the bore of the rod end; then nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
insert the bolt through the hole nearest the pivot.
10.3 Insert a 5/16–24 capscrew through the
Install and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
throttle pedal arm, from the floor-board
9. Install the horizontal throttle rod on the bellcrank. side. Insert the capscrew into the bore of
the rod end. Install a locknut and tighten it
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
is at a 30 degree angle above horizontal.
10.4 Return the cab to the operating position.
9.2 Turn the rod end until the spherical bear-
For instructions, see Section 60.04, Sub-
ing bore is aligned with the hole nearest
ject 060, in this manual.
Fig. 4. 10.5 Loosen the Kep nut at the bottom of the
WARNING 10.6 Turn the vertical throttle rod until the
could result in disengagement of the throttle link- WARNING
power, possibly resulting in personal injury or When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least
property damage. 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must re-
9.3 At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the could result in disengagement of the throttle link-
rod must remain engaged in the rod end. age, which could cause sudden loss of engine
If more adjustment is needed than can be power, possibly resulting in personal injury or
made at the bellcrank end of the rod, turn property damage.
the rod as needed to change the thread
engagement at the governor-arm end. 10.7 At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the
9.4 Install a flat washer on the 5/16–24 cap- If more adjustment is needed than can be
screw, then insert the capscrew into the made between the vertical throttle rod and
bore of the rod end. From the outside, in- the spherical bearing rod end, tighten the
sert the capscrew into the hole nearest Kep nut at the bottom of the vertical
the end of the longer bellcrank arm. Install throttle rod. Loosen the jam nut at the top
and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). of the throttle guide tube, and turn the
9.5 Hold the throttle rod and turn each of the guide tube as needed.
rod ends so that the flat faces of both 10.8 Tighten the jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
ends are parallel. Hold the rod in this posi- Tighten the Kep nut 84 lbf·in (940 N·m).
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). 11. Adjust the pedal stop. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 120.
10. Install the vertical throttle rod.
10.1 Insert the top of the vertical throttle rod
into the bottom of the throttle guide tube.
Slide the guide tube onto the vertical 14. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
throttle rod. system operates properly.
10.2 Install a flat washer on a 1/4–20 cap-
screw. From the inboard-side of the
shorter bellcrank arm, insert the capscrew

Troubleshooting
The throttle rod is too short. Adjust the length of the throttle rod, then adjust the pedal stop.

The throttle rod is too long. Adjust the length of the throttle rod, then adjust the pedal stop.

The throttle linkage attachment capscrews Tighten the throttle linkage attachment capscrews.
are not tight.

capscrews is loose.
Interference with the throttle linkage is Engine parts are interfering with full travel of the throttle linkage. Reposition
preventing the governor arm from reaching the parts, or the horizontal throttle linkage.
The throttle linkage is attached to the Attach the throttle linkage to the correct hole of the left cross-shaft arm.
wrong hole in the cross-shaft arm.
preventing the governor arm from the parts, or the horizontal throttle linkage.
returning to idle.
The return springs are too long Remove the return springs and check them for stretching. If the springs are
(stretched). stretched, install new ones.
The return springs are broken. Install new return springs.

Troubleshooting
The governor arm is attached to the wrong Attach the governor arm to hole "S" on the governor disc.
governor disc hole (3406 engines).

Engine parts are interfering with the Reposition the parts.
throttle linkage.
Engine parts are interfering with the return Reposition the parts. Check the return springs for damage, and replace them
springs. if necessary.

Caterpillar Engine Mechanical Throttle Control, FLD 120 30.03
General Information
General Information
return springs, and an adjustable pedal stop. See
Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. On Caterpillar 3306 engines, the
two-piece governor arm, right throttle rod, and cross-
shaft assembly are installed by the engine manufac-
turer. See Fig. 1.
ernor. Caterpillar governor arms consist of two parts
or governor could be damaged. An adjustable pedal
stop prevents movement of the linkage beyond the
governor arm’s breakover range.

30.03 Caterpillar Engine Mechanical Throttle Control, FLD 120
General Information
13
6
1 A
2
14
5 17
6 15
3
4
16
7
6
5
9
1 2
5 6
11
4 10
12
B
08/24/93 f300156a
B. Return spring installation without capscrew
1. Return-Spring Bracket 7. Right Throttle Rod 12. Left Throttle Rod
2. Return Springs 8. Right Cross-Shaft Arm 13. Hexhead Bolt
3. 1/4–20 Capscrew 9. Cross-Shaft Assembly 14. Pedal Throttle Arm
4. Governor Arm 10. Externally Threaded Spherical 15. Self-Locking Nut
5. Internally Threaded Spherical Bearing Rod End 16. Throttle Pedal
Bearing Rod End 11. Left Cross-Shaft Arm 17. Throttle Stop
6. 5/16–24 Jam Nut

General Information
1
3 4
5
6
4
5
6
7
2 3
A
7
8
12 9
10
11
08/24/93 f300154a
1. Return-Spring Bracket 5. Externally Threaded Spherical 9. Pedal Throttle Arm
2. 5/16–18 Capscrew Bearing Rod End 10. Prevailing Torque Locknut
3. Return Springs 6. Jam Nut 11. Throttle Pedal
4. Governor Arm 7. Throttle Rod 12. Throttle Stop
8. Hexhead Bolt

General Information
2 1
3 2
3
07/26/94 f300002

2. Jam Nut

Throttle Control Operation

Checking
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, 1
2
2. Open the hood.
3. Check the linkage attachment fasteners (cap- 5
screws, locknuts, and hexnuts) for tightness; 4
tighten any that are loose. On Caterpillar 3306 6
engines, also check the cross-shaft attachment 7
fasteners for tightness, and tighten as needed. C
9
8
mum horsepower, while checking that nothing 6
interferes with its movement. On Caterpillar 3306 4
engines, be sure that none of the engine parts
interfere with rotation of the cross-shaft arms. 5
Reposition any parts that interfere. 2
3
5. On Caterpillar 3306 engines, check the left
throttle rod for binding, by rotating the rod in and A B
out. With the rod-end jam nuts tight against the
04/25/2000 f300030a
rod, both rod ends must be free to swivel on
their spherical bearings. If the rod and rod ends A. The flat faces of the rod ends are not parallel
do not rotate in and out, back off the lower jam 1. Throttle Pedal Arm 5. Rod-End Bolt
nut (at the cross-shaft end of the rod). Turn the 2. Prevailing Torque 6. Rod-End Jam Nut
loosened rod end until its flat faces are parallel Locknut 7. Left Throttle Rod
to the flat faces of the upper rod end. See Fig. 1. 3. Lockwashers 8. Cross-Shaft
4. Spherical Bearing 9. Left Cross-Shaft Arm
Hold the rod and lower rod end in these posi- Rod End
tions while tightening the lower jam nut 15 lbf·ft
(20 N·m). Fig. 1, Left Throttle Rod (3306)
Move the right throttle rod by hand, from idle to spring from the governor arm. Do not
maximum horsepower, while checking that noth- stretch the springs any further than neces-
ing interferes with movement of the return sary. Disconnect the opposite ends from
springs. Reposition any parts that interfere. the spring bracket.
6. On Caterpillar 3406 engines, check the throttle 7.2 Inspect the springs, especially in the area
rod for binding by rotating the rod in and out. of the anchor loops, for wear, nicks, or
Loosen the rod-end jam nuts. other damage that might cause breakage.
Rotate the throttle rod to a position that will pre- 7.3 Measure the springs for stretching. The
vent other components from interfering with its relaxed spring should be no more than
movement through full travel. 9-3/8 inches (238 mm) long, from the out-
Hold the throttle rod in this position, and rotate side of one anchor loop to the outside of
each of the spherical bearing rod ends in a direc- the opposite anchor loop.
tion opposite the rotation of the throttle rod. 7.4 If the used springs are worn, damaged, or
Tighten the jam nuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). stretched, install new springs.
7. Inspect the return springs.
7.5 Install the springs by inserting one end of
7.1 Using a hook (do not use sharply serrated each spring into the holes or around the
pliers), disconnect the anchor loop of each capscrew in the spring bracket; then,

using the hook, install the opposite end If the throttle pedal angle is too high or too low,
around the capscrew or into the forward- adjust the length of the throttle linkage. See Sub-
most hole in the governor arm. See Fig. 2 ject 110.
and Fig. 3.
1
2
4
4
3
6 3
2 A
04/12/2000 f300003
5 A. 50 degrees
08/24/93 f300150a 1. Throttle Stop Capscrew
1. Right Throttle Rod 2. Jam Nut
2. Governor Arm 3. Cab Deck
3. Return Springs 4. Throttle Pedal
4. Spring Bracket
5. Fuel Filter Fig. 4, Throttle Pedal at Idle
6. Timing Gear Plate
Fig. 2, Return Spring Installation (3306) through full travel, while checking that the gover-
nor arm reaches the approximate middle of the
breakover range.
1 3 When the middle of the breakover range is
2
reached, a tang on the governor arm will move
to the center of an opening in the governor arm.
See Fig. 5, or Fig. 6.
A 10. If the governor arm does not reach the approxi-
mate middle of the breakover range, adjust the
pedal stop. See Subject 120.
08/24/93 f300147a
A. Attach the governor arm to the governor disc at hole 11. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
"G" tires.
1. Return-Spring Bracket 12. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
2. Return Springs system operates properly.
3. Throttle Rod
Fig. 3, Return Spring Installation (3406)

the throttle pedal. The pedal must be at an angle
of approximately 50 degrees to the cab deck.
See Fig. 4.

08/24/93 f300146a

opening
Fig. 5, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (3306)
08/24/93 f300148a
opening
Fig. 6, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (3406)

Throttle Linkage Length 5. Remove the locknut, flat washer, and capscrew
that attach the left throttle rod to the cross-shaft
Adjustment arm.
6. Block the throttle pedal at an angle of approxi-
CATERPILLAR 3306 ENGINES mately 50 degrees to the cab deck.
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, 7. With the governor arm at idle, turn the lower rod
and chock the tires. end, until the spherical bearing bore is aligned
with the second hole on the left cross-shaft arm.
2. Open the hood.
See Fig. 1.
3. When the governor arm is at idle, check the
angle of the left cross-shaft arm. The left arm
must be pointing upward at an angle of 60 ± 5
WARNING
degrees forward of vertical. See Fig. 1. When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least
If the left cross-shaft arm is positioned correctly, 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must re-
proceed to the next step. main engaged in the rod end. Anything less
If the left arm is not positioned correctly, loosen age, which could cause sudden loss of engine
the pinch-bolt nut. Spread the slotted end of the power, possibly resulting in personal injury or
arm with a screwdriver, while pulling outward on property damage.
the arm, to remove it. Install the arm at the cor-
rect angle, as shown in Fig. 1. Tighten the pinch- 8. At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the rod
bolt nut, then proceed to the next step. must remain engaged in the rod end. If more ad-
justment is needed than can be made at the
cross-shaft end of the rod, turn the rod as
needed, to change the thread engagement of the
upper rod end.
9. Install a flat washer on the attaching capscrew,
then insert the capscrew into the bore of the
lower rod end. From the outside, insert the cap-
screw into the second hole of the left cross-shaft
arm. Install and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20
1 N·m).
A 10. Tighten the upper rod-end jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m). Hold the rod while turning the lower rod
end so that its flat faces are parallel to the flat
faces of the upper rod end. Hold the rod and
04/12/2000 f300035a lower rod end in these positions while tightening
A. 60 ± 5 degrees the lower rod-end jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
1. Left-Side Cross-Shaft Arm 11. Adjust the pedal stop. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 120.
Fig. 1, Check the Angle of the Cross-Shaft Arm 12. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
IMPORTANT: Do not change the length of the tires.
right throttle rod, and do not reposition the gov- 13. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
ernor arm or right cross-shaft arm. system operates properly.
4. Back off the jam nuts at each end of the left
throttle rod.
CATERPILLAR 3406

2. Open the hood. 6. With the governor arm at idle, turn the lower rod
3. Loosen the jam nuts (Fig. 2) at each end of the end, until the spherical bearing bore is aligned
throttle rod. with the lower hole on the governor arm.
1
3 4
5
6
4
5
6
7
2 3
A
7
8
12 9
10
11
08/24/93 f300154a
1. Return-Spring Bracket 5. Externally Threaded Spherical 9. Pedal Throttle Arm
2. 5/16–18 Capscrew Bearing Rod End 10. Prevailing Torque Locknut
4. Governor Arm 7. Throttle Rod 12. Throttle Stop
8. Hexhead Bolt
4. Remove the locknut, flat washer, and capscrew

from the governor arm and spherical bearing rod WARNING
end.
5. Block the throttle pedal at an angle of approxi- 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must re-
mately 50 degrees to the cab deck. main engaged in the rod end. Anything less


property damage.
must remain engaged in the rod end. If more ad-
ernor arm, turn the rod as needed to change the
8. Install a flat washer on the attaching capscrew,
lower rod end. From the outside, insert the cap-
screw into the governor arm. Install and tighten
the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
9. Tighten the upper rod-end jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20
lower rod end in these positions while tightening
the lower rod-end jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
ject 120.
tires.


the checks under Subject 100 before adjusting
the pedal stop.
2. Open the hood.
A
screw in until no threads are showing above or
mum pedal travel. 08/24/93 f300146a

opening
1
2 Fig. 2, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (3306)
3
A
04/12/2000 f300003 A
A. 50 degrees
2. Jam Nut
08/24/93 f300148a
3. Cab Deck
4. Throttle Pedal A. The tang must be in the center of the opening
Fig. 1, Pedal Stop Installation Fig. 3, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (3406)
4. Block the governor arm in the breakover range. 7. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
tires.
NOTE: When the middle of the breakover range
is reached, a tang on the governor arm will move 8. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
to the center of an opening in the governor arm. system operates properly.
See Fig. 2, and Fig. 3 .
cab deck.
6. Remove the block from the governor arm. Oper-
ate the pedal, and check the adjustment. Read-
just if necessary.


Use the following procedure if the throttle control is
being replaced, removed and reinstalled, or if a new 5
or rebuilt engine is being installed. 4
CATERPILLAR 3306 3
6
2. Open the hood.

3. Install the spring bracket (if not already installed). 1
Remove the washer and nut from the timing gear 08/24/93 f300226
plate (just below and inboard of the fuel filter), 1. 1/4–20 x 1-1/4 inch Capscrew
and use the nut to attach the bracket to the 2. Throttle Return Springs
plate. Discard the washer. Position the bracket to 3. 1/4–20 Nut
extend upward, and behind the fuel filter. 4. Governor Arm
5. 1/4–20 Locknut
4. Install the return springs. 6. Spherical Bearing Rod End
4.1 If used springs are being installed, inspect
them, especially in the area of the anchor Fig. 1, Return Spring Capscrew Installation
loops, for wear, nicks, or other damage the arm at the correct angle, as shown in Fig. 2.
that may cause breakage. Install new Tighten the pinch-bolt nut.
springs if the used springs are worn or
damaged.
4.2 Hook one end of each spring into a hole
in the bracket.
loops around.
1
install a 1/4–20 capscrew through the in- A
board side of the aft hole of the governor
arm. See Fig. 1.
4.4 Using a hook (do not use sharply serrated 04/12/2000 f300035a
pliers) place the opposite anchor loop of
A. 60 ± 5 degrees
each spring around the capscrew in the
governor arm. Don’t stretch the springs 1. Left-Side Cross-Shaft Arm
any further than necessary.
Fig. 2, Return-Spring Bracket (3306)
the left cross-shaft arm. The left arm must be IMPORTANT: Do not change the length of the
pointing upward at an angle of 60 ± 5 degrees right throttle rod, and do not reposition the gov-
forward of vertical. See Fig. 2. ernor arm or right cross-shaft arm.
If not, loosen the pinch-bolt nut, then spread the 6. Install the jam nuts on the spherical bearing rod
slotted end of the arm with a screwdriver, while ends, as far as they will go. Turn the rod ends
pulling outward on the arm to remove it. Install into the rod until the distance from the center of

each spherical bearing bore to its end of the rod 12. Tighten the upper rod-end jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20
is 1-3/16 inches (30 mm). See Fig. 3. N·m). Hold the rod while turning the lower rod
A faces of the upper rod end. Hold the rod and
1 the lower rod-end jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
ject 120.
2
04/12/2000 3 f300027a tires.
A. 1-3/16 inches (30 mm) 15. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
1. Throttle Rod system operates properly.
2. Jam Nut
3. Spherical Bearing Rod End CATERPILLAR 3406
Fig. 3, Rod End Installation 1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake,
7. Insert a 5/16–24 capscrew through the throttle
pedal arm, from the floorboard side. Install a flat 2. Open the hood.
washer, then one of the rod’s spherical bearing 3. Install the spring bracket (if not already installed).
rod ends on the capscrew. Install a prevailing Remove the upper bolt that attaches the fuel in-
torque locknut and tighten it 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). jection pump housing to the drive housing, and
8. Block the throttle pedal at an angle of approxi- use the bolt to attach the bracket to the pump
mately 50 degrees to the cab deck. housing.
9. With the governor arm at idle, turn the lower rod NOTE: As a product improvement for longer
end until the spherical bearing bore is aligned service life, if the return spring anchor loops
with the lower hole on the governor arm. hook through a hole in the return spring bracket,
replace the bracket with the current model
WARNING bracket. Current brackets hold a capscrew, and
the spring anchor loops hook around the cap-
When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least screw. For the current return spring bracket part
5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on each rod must re- number for your vehicle, contact a Freightliner
main engaged in the rod end. Anything less dealer.
age, which could cause sudden loss of engine 4. Install the jam nuts and spherical bearing rod
power, possibly resulting in personal injury or ends on the throttle rod. The rod ends should be
property damage. adjusted to their maximum thread engagement.
Do not tighten the jam nuts.
must remain engaged in the rod end. If more ad- 5. Insert a 5/16–24 capscrew through the throttle
justment is needed than can be made at the pedal arm, from the floorboard side. Install a flat
cross-shaft end of the rod, turn the rod as washer, then one of the rod’s spherical bearing
needed to change the thread engagement of the rod ends on the capscrew. Install a prevailing
upper rod end. torque locknut and tighten it 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
11. Install a flat washer on the attaching capscrew, 6. Block the throttle pedal at an angle of approxi-
then insert the capscrew into the bore of the mately 50 degrees to the cab deck.
lower rod end. From the outside, insert the cap- 7. Check the position of the governor arm in the
screw into the second hole of the left cross-shaft governor disc. The governor arm must be at-
arm. Install and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m).

tached at the hole marked "G" in the disc. See

Fig. 4. If necessary, reposition the arm as fol-
lows:
7.1 Loosen the capscrew that attaches the
arm to the disc.
1 3
2
A
A
08/24/93 f300148a
08/24/93 f300147a A. The tang must be in the approximate center of the
opening
A. Attach the governor arm to the governor disc at hole
"G"
Fig. 5, Breakover Range
1. Return-Spring Bracket
2. Return Springs ernor arm, turn the rod as needed to change the
3. Throttle Rod thread engagement of the upper rod end.
Fig. 4, Governor Arm Position 10. Install a flat washer on the attaching capscrew,
7.2 Rotate the arm to the position where the lower rod end. From the outside, insert the cap-
hole in the arm is aligned with the hole screw into the governor arm. Install and tighten
that is marked "G" in the disc. the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
7.3 Tighten the capscrew, then push the long 11. Install the return springs.
part of the governor arm into the break- 11.1 If used springs are being installed, inspect
over range. The breakover range is them, especially in the area of the anchor
reached when the tang on one part of the loops, for wear, nicks, or other damage
arm is centered in the opening in the other that may cause breakage. Install new
part of the arm. See Fig. 5. springs if the used springs are worn or
8. With the throttle pedal and the governor arm in damaged.
spherical bearing bore is aligned with the lower
hole on the governor arm.
WARNING service life, install a capscrew in the gover-
When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least loops around.
main engaged in the rod end. Anything less 11.3 Using a 1/4–20 nut and a 1/4–20 locknut,
could result in disengagement of the throttle link- install a 1/4–20 capscrew in the aft hole of
age, which could cause sudden loss of engine the governor arm. See Fig. 6.
power, possibly resulting in personal injury or 11.4 Using a hook (do not use sharply serrated
property damage. pliers) place the opposite anchor loop of
9. At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the rod each spring around the capscrew in the
must remain engaged in the rod end. If more ad- governor arm. Don’t stretch the springs
justment is needed than can be made at the gov- any further than necessary.

6
5
4
1
08/24/93 f300225
1. 1/4–20 x 1-1/4 inch Capscrew
3. 1/4–20 Nut
4. Governor Arm
5. 1/4–20 Locknut
Fig. 6, Return Spring Capscrew Installation
12. Tighten the upper rod-end jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20

the lower rod-end jam nut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
ject 120.
tires.

Troubleshooting
The throttle rod is too short. Adjust the length of the throttle rod, then adjust the pedal stop.

The throttle rod is too long. Adjust the length of the throttle rod, then adjust the pedal stop.

The throttle linkage attachment capscrews Tighten the throttle linkage attachment capscrews.
are not tight.

capscrews is loose.
preventing the governor arm from reaching the parts.
At idle, the throttle pedal angle is too low. Adjust the length of the throttle rod, then adjust the pedal stop.
The throttle linkage is attached to the Attach the throttle linkage to the correct hole of the left cross-shaft arm.
wrong hole in the cross-shaft arm.
preventing the governor arm from the parts.
returning to idle.
The return springs are too long Remove the return springs and check them for stretching. If the springs are
(stretched). stretched, install new ones.
The return springs are broken. Install new return springs.

Troubleshooting
The governor arm is attached to the wrong Attach the governor arm to hole "G" on the governor disc.
governor disc hole (3406 engines).

Engine parts are interfering with the Reposition the parts.
throttle linkage.
Engine parts are interfering with the return Reposition the parts. Check the return springs for damage, and replace them
springs. if necessary.

General Information
General Information be at the correct angle when the engine is at idle

return springs, and an adjustable pedal stop. See
Fig. 1 or Fig. 2. Dual springs return the throttle control parts to their
14
1
15
2
B
3
4
10
9
7 8
5 6
12
A 15
11
13 4
7
8
14
04/12/2000 f300105a
A. Return spring installation with capscrews
1. Return Spring Bracket 6. 5/16–18 Hexnut 11. Pedal Throttle Arm
2. Return Springs 7. Spherical Bearing Rod End 12. Throttle Pedal
3. Governor Arm 8. Jam Nut 13. Pedal Stop
4. Lockwasher 9. 5/16–18 Locknut 14. 5/16–24 Locknut
5. 5/16–18 Capscrew 10. Throttle Rod 15. 5/16–24 Capscrew
Fig. 1, Throttle Control Parts (L10)
During engine operation, movement of the throttle idle positions when the pedal is released.

General Information
3
1
9
8
2 7
5 6
4
10
15
12 11
3
13
6
7
14
04/12/2000 f300111a
1. Return Spring Bracket 6. Spherical Bearing Rod End 11. Pedal Throttle Arm
3. Lockwasher 8. Governor Arm 13. Pedal Stop
4. 5/16–18 Capscrew 9. 5/16–18 Locknut 14. 5/16–24 Locknut
5. 5/16–18 Hexnut 10. Throttle Rod 15. 5/16–24 Capscrew
Fig. 2, Throttle Control Parts (C series)
When the linkage is properly adjusted, the governor part of the governor arm attached to the linkage to
shaft can rotate from idle rpm to maximum horse- move into the breakover range. If the governor arm
power. To ensure that maximum horsepower is al- were forced beyond the breakover range, the linkage
ways reached, the linkage must be able to move just or governor arm could be damaged. An adjustable
beyond the position where the governor shaft has pedal stop prevents movement of the linkage beyond
stopped rotating, without causing damage to the gov- the governor arm’s breakover range.

General Information
2 1
3 2
3
07/26/94 f300002

2. Jam Nut

Throttle Control Operation 5.2 Turn the throttle rod to a position that pre-
Checking with the rod’s movement through full
travel.
5.3 Hold the throttle rod in this position and
2. Open the hood. ends in the direction opposite the rotation
3. Check the linkage attachment fasteners (cap- of the throttle linkage. Hold the rod in this
screws, locknuts, and jam nuts) for tightness; position while tightening the rod-end jam
tighten any that are loose. nuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
4. Operate the throttle pedal by hand, from idle to 6. Operate the linkage by hand, from idle to maxi-
maximum horsepower, while checking that noth- mum horsepower, while checking that nothing
ing interferes with movement of the linkage. interferes with movement of the return springs.
Reposition any parts that interfere.
5. Check the linkage for binding, by rotating the rod
in and out. With the rod-end jam nuts tight 7. Check the length of the installed return springs.
against the rod, both rod ends must be free to When the throttle lever is at idle, the springs
swivel on their spherical bearings. If the rod and must be 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm)
rod ends do not rotate in and out, adjust the rod long. See Fig. 2. If the spring length is incorrect,
ends and jam nuts as follows: see Subject 130.
8. Inspect the return springs, as follows:
throttle rod. See Fig. 1. 8.1 Using a hook (do not use sharply serrated
pliers), remove the anchor loop of each
3
1
7
8
2
9
01/04/2000 f300104a
1. Governor Arm 4. Throttle Stop 7. Rod End Jam Nut
2. Rod End Jam Nut 5. Throttle Pedal 8. Throttle Pedal Arm
3. Throttle Rod 6. Cab Deck 9. Upper Rod End
Fig. 1, Throttle Linkage

2
1
1 3
2
A 3
01/04/2000 f300109a
A. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm) 4

1. Return Spring Bracket A
2. Governor Arm at Idle
3. Vertical Centerline of Governor Shaft
Fig. 2, Return Spring Length (L10) 04/12/2000 f300013a

A. 50 degrees
spring from the capscrew on the governor
arm. Do not stretch the springs any further 1. Jam Nut
than necessary. Disconnect the opposite 2. Pedal Stop Capscrew
ends from the capscrew installed on the 3. Throttle Pedal
4. Cab Deck
spring bracket.
8.2 Inspect the springs, especially in the area Fig. 3, Throttle Pedal at Idle
of the anchor loops, for wear, nicks, or
other damage that might cause breakage. NOTE: The breakover range begins at the point
where the two parts of the governor arm begin
8.3 Measure the springs for stretching. The to have intersecting centerlines. See Fig. 4.
relaxed spring should be no more than
9-3/8 inches (238 mm) long, from the out- 11. If the governor arm does not travel at least 5 de-
side of one anchor loop to the outside of grees into the breakover range, adjust the pedal
the opposite anchor loop. stop. See Subject 120.
8.4 If the used springs are worn, damaged, or 12. Lower the hood and remove the chocks from the
stretched, install new springs. tires.
8.5 Install the springs on the spring bracket 13. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
capscrew; then, using the hook, install the system operates properly.
anchor loops on the capscrew that at-
taches the rod end to the governor arm.
See Fig. 2.
the throttle pedal. The pedal must be at an angle
of approximately 50 degrees to the cab deck.
See Fig. 3. If the throttle pedal angle is too high
or too low, adjust the length of the throttle link-
age. See Subject 110.
over range.

1
4
5° 5 6 7 8
01/15/98 f300106a
A. 5 degrees
1. Throttle Return 5. Capscrew
Springs 6. Spherical Bearing
Beakover Spring 8. Throttle Rod
4. Throttle Linkage
Mounting Hole
Fig. 4, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (L10)

Throttle Linkage Length WARNING

Adjustment When lengthening the throttle linkage, at least
2. Open the hood. which could cause sudden loss of engine power,
3. Remove the return springs from the capscrew at possibly resulting in personal injury or property
the governor arm. damage.
4. Loosen the jam nuts at each end of the throttle 8. At least 5/16 inch (8 mm) of thread on the rod
rod. See Fig. 1. end must remain engaged in the rod. If more ad-
5. Remove the locknut, lockwasher, and capscrew ernor arm, turn the rod as needed, to change the
from the governor arm and the spherical bearing thread engagement of the upper rod end.
rod end.
9. Insert a capscrew, with a hexnut and lockwasher
6. Block the throttle pedal at an angle of approxi- (Fig. 2), into the bore of the lower rod end. Insert
mately 50 degrees to the cab deck. the capscrew through the top (C series engine),
7. With the governor arm at idle, turn the lower rod or bottom (L10 engine) hole on the governor
end, until the spherical bearing bore is aligned arm. Install a lockwasher on the capscrew. Install
with the top (C series engines), or bottom (L10 and tighten the locknut 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
engines) hole on the governor arm. 10. Turn the throttle rod to a position that prevents
movement through full travel. Hold the throttle
3
1
7
8
2
9
01/04/2000 f300104a
1. Governor Arm 4. Throttle Stop 7. Rod End Jam Nut
2. Rod End Jam Nut 5. Throttle Pedal 8. Throttle Pedal Arm
3. Throttle Rod 6. Cab Deck 9. Upper Rod End
Fig. 1, Throttle Linkage

2
3
4
1 5
4
01/15/98 f300110a
1. Return Springs
2. 5/16–18 Hexnut
3. Governor Arm
4. Lockwasher
6. 5/16–18 Hexnut
7. 5/16–18 Capscrew
Fig. 2, Return Spring Capscrew Installation
rod in this position and turn each of the spherical

bearing rod ends in the direction opposite the
rotation of the throttle linkage. Hold the rod in
this position while tightening the rod-end jam
11. Install the return springs on the capscrew at the
governor arm.
ject 120.
tires.


2
the checks under Subject 100 before adjusting
the pedal stop.
2. Open the hood.
screw in until no threads are showing above or 1
mum pedal travel.
4. Hold the throttle pedal at the point where the 3
centerlines of the two parts of the governor arm 5°
01/15/98 f300205a
A. 5 degrees
5. Position the head of the pedal stop capscrew 1. Throttle Return Springs
1/16 to 1/8 inch (1.5 to 3 mm) from the bottom of 2. Governor Arm
the pedal, and tighten the jam nut against the 3. Throttle Rod
cab deck. See Fig. 1.
6. Operate the pedal to check the adjustment. Re- Fig. 2, Governor Arm in the Breakover Range (L10)
adjust if necessary.
1 2
04/12/2000 f300015a
1. Jam Nut
3. Throttle Pedal
4. Cab Deck
Fig. 1, Pedal Stop

tires.


Use the following procedure if the throttle control is
being replaced, removed and reinstalled, or if a new
or rebuilt engine is being installed.
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, 1
2. Open the hood.
4. Install the jam nuts and spherical bearing rod 5
ends on the throttle rod. The rod ends should be
adjusted to their maximum thread engagement. 4
2
Do not tighten the jam nuts.
5. Insert a 5/16–24 capscrew through the upper 3
spherical bearing rod end, from the tunnel side. 04/12/2000 f300016a
Install a lockwasher, then install the rod end on 1. Throttle Pedal Arm
the throttle pedal arm. Install a prevailing torque 2. Capscrew
locknut and tighten it 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). See 3. Washer
Fig. 1. 4. Prevailing Torque Locknut
5. Floorboard
6. Hold the throttle pedal at an angle of approxi-
mately 50 degrees to the cab deck. Fig. 1, Throttle Linkage (C series)
7. With the governor arm pointing downward at 0 ±
2 degrees forward of vertical (L10 engines) or 18
degrees forward of vertical (C series engines),
measure the distance between the spring ends
on the return-spring bracket and the spring ends
attached to the capscrew in the governor arm. 2
This distance (the length of the installed springs
at idle) must be 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 1
mm). If the distance is not within this tolerance,
remove the nut, washer, and pinch bolt from the
governor arm. Remove the arm by spreading the 3
end of it with a screwdriver while pulling outward
on it. Install the arm (pointing downward) at an
angle that will provide the correct distance. Install B
and securely tighten the pinch bolt, washer, and A
04/12/2000 f300108a
nut.
A. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm)
8. Install the return springs as follows: B. 18 degrees
8.1 If used springs are being installed, inspect 1. Return Spring Bracket
them, especially in the area of the anchor 2. Governor Arm (at idle)
loops, for wear, nicks, or other damage 3. Throttle Rod
that may cause breakage. Install new
springs if the used springs are worn or Fig. 2, Governor Arm at Idle (C series)
damaged. 8.3 Using a hook (do not use sharply serrated
8.2 Install one end of each spring on the pliers), insert the other anchor loops on
spring bracket capscrew. the capscrew that attaches the rod end to

arm. Install a lockwasher on the capscrew. Install

12. Turn the throttle rod to a position that prevents
movement through full travel.
13. Hold the throttle rod in this position and turn
2 each of the spherical bearing rod ends in the di-
rection opposite the rotation of the throttle link-
age. Hold the rod in this position while tightening
A
the rod-end jam nuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
ject 120.
3 tires.
1
04/12/2000 B f300107a 16. Test drive the vehicle and ensure that the throttle
A. 9-1/2 to 9-3/4 inches (241 to 248 mm) system operates properly.
B. 0 ± 2 degrees
1. Return Spring Bracket
2. Governor Arm (at idle)
3. Throttle Rod
Fig. 3, Governor Arm at Idle (L10)
the governor arm. Don’t stretch the

springs any further than necessary.
9. With the throttle pedal and the governor arm in
spherical bearing bore is aligned with the top (C
series engines), or bottom (L10 engines) hole on
the governor arm.
WARNING
possibly resulting in personal injury or property
damage.
ernor arm, turn the rod as needed, to change the
11. Insert a capscrew, with a locknut and lock-
washer, into the bore of the lower rod end. Insert
the capscrew through the top (C series engine),
or bottom (L10 engine) hole on the governor

Troubleshooting
The throttle linkage is too long. Adjust the length of the throttle linkage, then adjust the pedal stop.

The throttle linkage is too short. Adjust the length of the throttle linkage, then adjust the pedal stop.
Problem— Excessive Play in the Throttle Pedal

Problem— Excessive Play in the Throttle Pedal
capscrews is loose.

capscrews is loose.
preventing the governor arm from reaching Reposition the components.
preventing the governor arm from Reposition the components.

Troubleshooting

engine components. components.
end of the throttle rod are rotated to their
opposite limits.

Electronic Throttle Control, Williams 30.05
General Information
Accelerator Pedal Assembly

The Williams electronic accelerator pedal provides an
electrical signal to the engine in response to the driv-
er’s demand for more engine power. The accelerator
pedal converts downward pressure into an electrical
signal via the pedal position sensor.
Pedal Position Sensor

Freightliner uses various pedal position sensors, de-
pending on the engine. The pedal position sensor is
mounted to the side of the pedal assembly. The sen-
sor and the pedal assembly are both separately re-
placeable.
NOTE: Left-hand drive (LHD) FLD vehicles
manufactured on or after April 2, 2007, do not
have replaceable sensors. The new pedal as-
semblies use thread-forming screws to mount
the sensor to the pedal housing. Sensor re-
placement will strip the threads, so the entire
pedal assembly must be replaced when a new
sensor is needed.
There are two basic technologies employed on pedal
position sensors used with electronic engines on
heavy-duty trucks:
• A ratiometric sensor that generates a DC volt-
age output in proportion to the pedal position.
The ratiometric sensor is used on Detroit Die-
sel, Mercedes-Benz, and pre-EPA07 Cummins
engines.
• A pulse-width-modulating (PWM) sensor that
generates a series of discrete voltage pulses.
The width of the pulses is proportional to the
pedal position. A narrower pulse width indi-
cates a smaller accelerator pedal request and
a wider pulse width indicates a larger pedal
request. The PWM sensor is used on Caterpil-
lar engines.
An idle validation switch (IVS) is integrated into some
ratiometric pedal position sensors. The IVS is a
single-pole, double-throw switch. Some engine
models monitor both switched poles, and some moni-
tor only one pole. When the accelerator pedal returns
to idle, the IVS moves to the "idle" position to signal
the engine that the pedal has returned to idle. The
IVS is not a serviceable part. If the IVS malfunctions,
the sensor must be replaced.

Floor-Mounted Pedal Removal and Installation
Vehicles built on or after June 27, 2003, have sus-

pended accelerator pedal assemblies. For instruc-
tions on removing or installing a suspended accelera-
tor pedal, see Subject 110.
Floor-mounted accelerator pedals can be removed in
one of two ways, depending on the pedal base plate
type. If the pedal assembly has a steel base plate,
the upper assembly can be removed, leaving the
base plate attached to the cab floor. If the base plate
1
is cast-aluminum and painted black, the entire pedal
and base plate assembly must be removed.
Steel Base Plate (Upper

Assembly Only)
04/12/2000 f830109a
Removal 1. Knee Pad
Fig. 2, Knee Pad Removal
3. On FLA/FLBs and FLD 120s without a tilt steer- 4. Remove the carpeting and insulation from the
ing wheel, remove the upper and lower steering frontwall above the accelerator pedal, and on
column panels. See Fig. 1. both sides of the steering column, to expose the
wiring harness.
On FLD 112s, remove the two Torx® screws that
hold the knee pad in place above the accelerator 5. Disconnect the pedal position sensor wiring har-
pedal, then remove the knee pad. See Fig. 2. ness from the cab wiring harness.
6. Remove the rubber treadle cover, if equipped.
NOTE: On some pedals, the forward stud on
the treadle cover also holds the spring plate. If
this is the case, loosen the nut on the forward
stud. Then remove the nut from the rear treadle
cover stud and lift the treadle cover enough to
access the treadle pin.
7. Depending on the pedal version, the treadle pin
has one or two retaining clips. Note the position
of the retaining clip(s) and the bushing. See
Fig. 3 or Fig. 4.
Remove the retaining clip(s) from the treadle pin.
Remove the treadle pin and the heel spring (if
equipped).
1 8. Remove the treadle from the base plate.
2
06/25/93 f300216
Installation
1. Upper Steering Column Cover Panel 1. Position the treadle on the base plate.
2. Lower Steering Column Cover Panel
2. Make sure that the bushings are in place in the
treadle and the base plate. See Fig. 3 or Fig. 4.
Fig. 1, Steering Column Cover Panels

30.05 Electronic Throttle Control, Williams
1
2
2 7 7
5 6
3 4
3 3
4 4 5 6 4 4
4
8
8 1
03/31/94 f300224
1. Wiring Harness 5. Treadle Pin 06/24/93 f300217
2. Clamp 6. Heel Spring 1. Wiring Harness 5. Treadle Pin
3. Retaining Clip 7. Treadle 2. Clamp 6. Heel Spring
4. Nylon Bushing 8. Base Plate 3. Retaining Clip 7. Treadle
4. Nylon Bushing 8. Base Plate
Fig. 3, Pedal Assembly (1 retaining clip)
Fig. 4, Pedal Assembly (2 retaining clips)
3. Install the heel spring (if equipped) on the base
plate so that the long leg of the spring is in the 12. Test the pedal operation using the diagnostic
hole of the base plate. software tool specified in Table 1.
4. Install the treadle pin through the treadle, heel
spring, and base plate. Diagnostic Software Tools
5. Install the retaining clip(s) onto the treadle pin. Engine
Software Tool
Be sure the retaining clip(s) are positioned cor- Manufacturer
rectly. See Fig. 3 or Fig. 4. Caterpillar Electronic Technician (CAT
Caterpillar
6. Install the rubber treadle cover, if equipped. ET)
Cummins INSITE
7. Connect the pedal position wiring harness.
Detroit Diesel Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
8. Install any wiring clamps that were removed, and
secure the wiring with tie straps to remove any Mercedes-Benz Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
slack. Table 1, Diagnostic Software Tools
9. On FLA/FLBs and FLD 120s, without a tilt steer-
ing wheel, install the upper and lower steering
column cover panels.
On FLD 112s, install the knee pad.
10. Position the carpet and insulation over the front-
wall.

Cast Aluminum Base Plate,

Painted Black (Entire
Assembly) A
Removal
3. On FLA/FLBs and FLD 120s without a tilt steer-
ing wheel, remove the upper and lower steering
column panels. See Fig. 1. 1
On FLD 112s, remove the two Torx screws that 2
hold the knee pad in place above the accelerator
pedal, then remove the knee pad. See Fig. 2.
4. Remove the carpeting and insulation from the
frontwall above the accelerator pedal, and on 1
both sides of the steering column, to expose the 2
wiring harness. 06/25/93 f300182
5. Disconnect the pedal position sensor wiring har- A. To the electronic engine wiring harness.
ness from the cab wiring harness.
1. Washer 2. Locknut
6. Remove the three fasteners that hold the base
plate to the cab floor. See Fig. 5. Fig. 5, Pedal Base Plate
NOTE: On some installations, the accelerator
pedal base plate is fastened to a deck bracket.
See Fig. 6. To remove the pedal, remove the
fasteners that secure the base plate to the deck
bracket.
7. Remove the pedal and base plate assembly.
5
Installation
1. Position the accelerator pedal studs on the three
2
mounting holes in the cab floor. 1
2. Install the two rear base plate studs in the rear
holes. Lower the base plate and install the front 3
base plate stud into the front hole. 4
3. Secure the base plate to the cab floor. Tighten 06/25/93 f010231
the locknuts securely. 1. Brake Pedal 4. Hexbolt
2. Base Plate 5. Accelerator Pedal
NOTE: On some installations, the accelerator 3. Deck Bracket
pedal base plate is fastened to a deck bracket.
See Fig. 6. To install the base plate on the deck Fig. 6, Base Plate with Deck Bracket
bracket, use two hexbolts and nuts. Tighten the
nuts firmly. 5. Install any wiring clamps that were removed, and
secure the wiring with tie straps to remove any
4. Connect the pedal position wiring harness. slack.

6. On FLA/FLBs and FLD 120s without a tilt steer-

ing wheel, install the upper and lower steering
column cover panels.
On FLD 112s, install the knee pad.
7. Position the carpet and insulation to cover the
frontwall.
9. Test the pedal operation using the diagnostic
software tool specified in Table 1.

Suspended Pedal Removal and Installation
The following procedures may be performed on sus- 2. Install the pedal assembly mounting fasteners
pended pedals only. For instructions on removing or and tighten them 7 to 12 lbf·ft (9 to 16 N·m).
installing a floor-mounted accelerator pedal assem-
3. Connect the pedal position sensor wiring har-
bly, see Subject 100. ness.
4. Depress the accelerator pedal several times and
Removal ensure that the pedal does not stick or bind.
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires. 5. Connect the batteries.
2. Disconnect the batteries. 6. Test the pedal operation using the diagnostic
3. Disconnect the pedal position sensor wiring har-
ness.
Diagnostic Software Tools
4. Remove the four fasteners that secure the accel- Engine
erator pedal base cup to the inside of the bulk- Software Tool
Manufacturer
head. See Fig. 1.
Caterpillar Electronic Technician (CAT
5. Remove the pedal assembly. Caterpillar
ET)
Cummins INSITE
1 2
Mercedes-Benz Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
5 Table 1, Diagnostic Software Tools
05/22/2003 f300414
1. Fastener #1 4. Fastener #4
2. Fastener #2 5. Pedal Position
3. Fastener #3 Sensor
Fig. 1, Accelerator Pedal Assembly
Installation
1. Align the accelerator pedal assembly with the
mounting holes on the inside of the bulkhead.
NOTE: Right-hand drive (RHD) vehicles have
an adhesive-backed gasket. Ensure that the
gasket is in place between the pedal base cup
and the bulkhead.

Heel Spring Replacement, Floor-Mounted Pedal
The following procedure can be performed on floor-

mounted pedals only. 1
2 7
Replacement
Heel springs can be replaced in one of two ways,
depending on the pedal base plate type:
• If the pedal base plate is steel, remove the 3
5 6
upper assembly. For instructions, see Sub- 4
ject 100. While installing the treadle, discard
the old heel spring and install a new one. In-
stall the upper pedal assembly.
• If the pedal base plate is cast-aluminum, 4
painted black, complete the procedure below to
replace the heel spring. 8
1. Remove the entire pedal assembly. For instruc-
2. Lift the accelerator pedal up from the base plate,
find the retaining clip(s) that holds the treadle pin 03/31/94 f300224
connecting the pedal to the base plate, and re-
1. Wiring Harness 5. Treadle Pin
move and discard the clip(s).
2. Clamp 6. Heel Spring
3. Remove and discard the treadle pin and the heel 3. Retaining Clip 7. Treadle
spring, then remove the accelerator pedal from 4. Nylon Bushing 8. Base Plate
the base plate.
Fig. 1, Pedal Assembly (1 retaining clip)
4. Remove and discard the nylon bushings from the
ears of the pedal treadle and the base plate.
5. Install two new nylon bushings in the treadle and
base plate. On pedal assemblies with two retain-
ing clips, install the flanges outboard. On pedals
with one retaining clip, install the flanges inboard.
See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2.
6. Install the new heel spring on the base plate so
that the long leg of the spring sits in the hole of
the base plate.
7. Install a new treadle pin through the treadle, heel
spring, and base plate.
8. Install the retaining clip(s) onto the treadle pin,
between the nylon bushings. See Fig. 1 or
Fig. 2.
9. Install the accelerator pedal assembly. For in-

Heel Spring Replacement, Floor-Mounted Pedal
2
7
3 3
4 4 5 6 4 4
8
1
06/24/93 f300217
1. Wiring Harness 5. Treadle Pin

2. Clamp 6. Heel Spring
3. Retaining Clip 7. Treadle
4. Nylon Bushing 8. Base Plate
Fig. 2, Pedal Assembly (2 retaining clips)

Pedal Position Sensor Adjustment
Left-hand drive (LHD) FLD vehicles manufactured on 4. Connect the appropriate diagnostic software tool
or after April 2, 2007, do not have replaceable sen- to the vehicle’s electronic datalink. Adjust the
sors. The new pedal assemblies use thread-forming sensor by rotating it in its housing until the
screws to mount the sensor to the pedal housing. reader displays the correct idle output. See
Sensor replacement will strip the threads, so the en- Table 1.
tire pedal assembly must be replaced when a new 5. Depress the pedal to the full throttle position.
sensor is needed. For instructions, see Subject 110. Check the output on the reader against the cor-
NOTE: Only pedal position sensors with mount- rect full throttle output in Table 1.
ing slots are adjustable. IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the sensor
screws. Overtightening the screws can damage
Sensor Adjustment the sensor.
6. After the sensor is adjusted to the correct specifi-
NOTE: Pedals used with Cummins electronic cations, tighten the two sensor screws 10 to 12
engines are not adjustable. If the pedal is not lbf·in (110 to 135 N·cm).
operating correctly, replace the sensor or the 7. Tighten the wiring harness clamps.
pedal assembly as necessary.
8. Depress the accelerator pedal several times and
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires. ensure that the pedal does not stick or bind.
2. If necessary, loosen the clamps that secure the
wiring harness to the pedal assembly.
3. Loosen the two screws that hold the sensor in
the sensor housing.
Pedal Position Sensor Adjustment

Engine Diagnostic Software Tool Idle Output Full Throttle Output
Caterpillar Caterpillar Electronic Technician (CAT ET) 5–20% duty cycle 80–95% duty cycle
Detroit Diesel Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link 27–29 counts 220–232 counts
Mercedes-Benz Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link 27–29 counts 220–232 counts
Table 1, Pedal Position Sensor Adjustment

Treadle Lever Spring Replacement, Floor-
Mounted Pedal

mounted pedals only.
Spring Replacement
1. Remove the accelerator pedal assembly. For in-
2. Remove the rubber treadle cover, if equipped.
3. Place the pedal in a vise with the treadle down
and the lever arm up.
IMPORTANT: Use a 3/32-inch punch to remove
the roller pin from the lever arm. A larger punch
could damage the lever arm.
4. Use a 3/32-inch punch to remove the roller pin
from the lever arm and sensor shaft. Discard the
roller pin.
5. Using a small punch, carefully press the sensor
shaft and ball bearing out of the housing. Discard
the sensor shaft. Retain the ball bearing.
6. Remove the lever arm, the existing springs, the
bushing, and the shim washer.
Discard the springs. Retain the lever arm, the
bushing, and the shim washer.
7. Insert the ball bearing and the shim washer into
the sensor housing. Position the springs and the
lever arm in the pedal so that the sensor shaft
will pass through them.
8. Insert the sensor shaft into the pedal. Align the
sensor shaft so that the tangs of the springs en-
gage the grooves in the shaft.
IMPORTANT: Be sure that the external spring
tangs hook onto the spring plate or the spring
anchor hook cast into the bottom of the treadle.
See Fig. 2.
9. Use a 3/32-inch punch to install a new roller pin
through the lever arm and sensor shaft.
10. Install the rubber treadle cover, if equipped.

Mounted Pedal
11
12
10
13
10
14
15
16
9 17
5
4
3 7
18
6
10
2 19
1
22 10
21
20
08/19/93 f300173a
NOTE: Instead of a spring plate, some pedal assemblies have spring anchor hooks cast into the underside of the treadle.
1. Screw 9. Ball Bearing 16. Flat Springs
2. Sensor Cover 10. Bushing 17. Roller Pin
3. Screw 11. Treadle Cover 18. Lever Arm
4. Star Washer 12. Bushing 19. Shim Washer
5. Flatwasher 13. Treadle 20. Base Plate
6. Sensor 14. Spring Plate 21. Treadle Pin
7. Sensor Shaft 15. Self-Tapping Screw 22. Retaining Clip
8. Grommet
Fig. 1, Accelerator Pedal Assembly

Mounted Pedal
3 4
1 1
2
06/25/93 f300211
1. Lever Arm Springs 3. Treadle
2. Spring Anchor Hook 4. Spring Plate
Fig. 2, Spring Anchor Hooks or Spring Plate

Treadle Lever Roller Replacement, Floor-Mounted
Pedal

mounted pedals only.
Roller Replacement
1. Remove the accelerator pedal assembly. For in-
2. Remove and discard the retaining rings. See
Fig. 1.
5 3
4
06/25/93 f300212
1. Lever Arm 3. Roller

2. Retaining Ring (not 4. Retaining Ring
shown) 5. Roller Pin
Fig. 1, Treadle Lever and Roller
3. One end of the roller pin is knurled. Clamp the

pedal assembly in a vice so that the lever arm is
supported, but the roller pin—knurled side
down—is not supported.
4. Using a 1/4-inch punch, drive the roller pin out of
the lever arm.
5. Discard the roller pin and roller.
6. Place a new roller in the lever arm, and insert a
new roller pin. Insert the new pin from the same
side the old pin was removed.
7. Use a 1/4-inch punch to drive the roller pin all
the way into place, and secure the pin with two
new retaining rings.

Pedal Position Sensor Replacement
NOTE: Left-hand drive (LHD) FLD vehicles

manufactured on or after April 2, 2007, do not 1 2 3 4
have replaceable sensors. The new pedal as-
semblies use thread-forming screws to mount
the sensor to the pedal housing. Sensor re-
pedal assembly must be replaced when a new
sensor is needed. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 110.
Replacement
3. Remove the pedal assembly. For instructions,
see Subject 100 for floor-mounted pedal assem-
11/18/2008 f300424
blies, or Subject 110 for suspended pedal as-
semblies. 1. Accelerator Pedal Assembly
2. Pinion Gear
IMPORTANT: Do not remove the pedal assem- 3. Pedal Position Sensor
bly from right-hand drive (RHD) vehicles. Dis- 4. Mounting Screws
connect the pedal position sensor wiring har-
ness and proceed with the instructions below. Fig. 1, Pedal Position Sensor Installation
4. Remove the two mounting fasteners that connect Diagnostic Software Tools
the sensor to the pedal assembly. See Fig. 1.
Remove the pedal position sensor from the pedal Engine
Software Tool
Manufacturer
assembly.
5. Align the new sensor with the spline on the pin- Caterpillar
ET)
ion gear, then push it into the pedal assembly.
Slightly rotate the sensor so the mounting holes Cummins INSITE
line up with the pedal assembly. See Fig. 1. Detroit Diesel Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
6. Install the sensor mounting fasteners and tighten Mercedes-Benz Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
them 25 to 30 lbf·in (280 to 340 N·cm). Table 1, Diagnostic Software Tools
7. Install the pedal assembly (LHD vehicles only).
For instructions, see Subject 100 for floor- NOTE: Vehicles built before April 2, 2007, may
mounted pedal assemblies, or Subject 110 for
suspended pedal assemblies.
require pedal position sensor adjustment after
the sensor is replaced. For instructions, see
8. Connect the sensor wiring harness. Subject 130.
10. Test the pedal operation using the diagnostic

Troubleshooting
Complete the following procedures to diagnose ac- Diagnostic Software Tools

celerator pedal assembly and pedal position sensor
problems. Engine
Software Tool
Manufacturer
Common Problems and Caterpillar
ET)
Indications Cummins INSITE
The accelerator pedal assembly was designed so
that the pedal position sensor will not reach the inter- Mercedes-Benz Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
nal stop points when it is mounted to the pedal as- Table 1, Diagnostic Software Tools
sembly. Attempting to modify the sensor or forcing
the sensor shaft beyond the internal stop points will
result in severe damage to the sensor. NOTE: All desired signal values are approxi-
mate. Each individual vehicle and electrical sys-
A number of symptoms may be reported that can
indicate a problem with the accelerator pedal, pedal
tem will exhibit some variation in signal values.
position sensor, or wiring to the engine, including: The engine control system compensates for this
variation. These diagnostic procedures are de-
• low power or poor acceleration signed to identify malfunctioning components of
• slow deceleration the pedal assembly and electrical system.
• vehicle does not reach top speed 2. Make a note of the signal values at idle. See
• engine is stuck at idle Table 2 for the correct signal values.
• engine brake does not function 3. Slowly depress the accelerator pedal and moni-
tor the signals.
• check engine light comes on
NOTE: There is a short time delay between
• engine fault code indicates a pedal position pedal movement and display of the correspond-
sensor problem ing data.
A thorough diagnosis of the entire sensor system 4. Make a note of all signal values when the pedal
must be performed to ensure that a pedal position has been pressed halfway.
sensor is faulty. Symptoms may disappear when the
pedal position sensor is replaced even if the sensor 5. Make a note of all signal values at full throttle.
is not faulty. 6. Verify idle validation signal (IVS) inputs, if
equipped.
Diagnostics NOTE: The pedal position sensor used with Cat-
erpillar engines is a pulse-width modulated
IMPORTANT: Left-hand drive (LHD) FLD ve- (PWM) sensor. It cannot be diagnosed using a
hicles manufactured on or after April 2, 2007, do digital multimeter set to measure voltage or re-
not have replaceable sensors. The new pedal sistance. A multimeter capable of measuring
assemblies use thread-forming screws to mount "duty cycle" may be used to view the sensor
the sensor to the pedal housing. Sensor re- output.
pedal assembly must be replaced when a new 7. If any signal does not change, measure the sen-
sensor is needed. For instructions, see Sub- sor voltage supply and ground circuits with a
digital multimeter as follows.
ject 110.
1. Connect the vehicle to the appropriate diagnostic 7.1 Use EZWiring™ in ServicePro or PartsPro
software tool. See Table 1 for a list of diagnostic to identify the circuit(s) that supply voltage
software tools for each engine. to the pedal position sensor.

Troubleshooting
IMPORTANT: The ignition key must be in the controller are free of corrosion and are not bent
ON position. or damaged. Inspect and ensure that the con-
nections between the pins and the wires are se-
7.2 Disconnect the connector nearest the cure and also free of corrosion.
pedal and measure the voltage supply.
10. If the problem has not been resolved, the prob-
8. If a 5-volt supply is not present, look for a fault in lem is not with the pedal position sensor. See the
the circuit between the pedal and the common engine manufacturer’s service literature for fur-
powertrain controller (Detroit Diesel and ther guidance.
Mercedes-Benz) or the motor control module
(Caterpillar and Cummins engines).
9. Inspect and ensure that all connector pins at the
pedal position sensor, frontwall, and the engine
Diagnostic Software Values*

Engine Signal Pedal Position Desired Value†
Idle 0%
Throttle Position Full throttle 100%
Caterpillar, pre- Between idle/full throttle Varies smoothly between 0% and 100%
EPA07 Idle 15%
Duty Cycle Full throttle 85%
Between idle/full throttle Varies smoothly between 15% and 85%
Idle 0%
Accelerator Pedal Position Full throttle 100%
Idle 0%
Caterpillar, EPA07 Throttle Position Full throttle 100%
Idle 15%
Duty Cycle Full throttle 85%
Idle 0%
Idle 0.5 volts
Accelerator Pedal Sensor Full throttle 4.5 volts
Cummins, pre-
Between idle/full throttle Varies smoothly between 0.5 and 4.5 volts
EPA07
Idle ON
IVS
Full throttle OFF
Idle 5.0 volts
Sensor Supply Full throttle 5.0 volts
Between idle/full throttle 5.0 volts

Troubleshooting

Idle 0%
Idle 1.0 volts
Accelerator Pedal Sensor Full throttle 4.5 volts
Cummins, EPA07
Idle 0.5 volts
Accelerator Pedal Sensor 2 Full throttle 2.25 volts
Idle 5.0 volts
Sensor Supply (both) Full throttle 5.0 volts
Idle 15%
Accelerator Pedal Raw
Full throttle 75%
Sensor
Idle 0%
Detroit Diesel and
Mercedes-Benz, Between idle/full throttle Varies smoothly between 0% and 100%
pre-EPA07
Idle ON (grounded)
IVS
Full throttle OFF (open)
Idle 5.0 volts
Supply Analog Accelerator
Full throttle 5.0 volts
Pedal

Troubleshooting

Idle 15%
Accelerator Pedal Raw
Full throttle 75%
Sensor
Idle 0%
Detroit Diesel and
Mercedes-Benz, Idle ON (grounded)
EPA07 IVS1
Full throttle OFF (open)
Idle OFF (open)
IVS2
Full throttle ON (grounded)
Idle 5.0 volts
Supply Analog Accelerator
Full throttle 5.0 volts
Pedal
* All desired signal values are approximate. Each individual vehicle and electrical system will exhibit some variation in signal values.
† There is a short time delay between pedal movement and display of the corresponding data.
Table 2, Diagnostic Software Values

Frame Fasteners 31.00
General Information
General Information
Either Huckbolts® or grade 8 hexhead bolts and
grade C prevailing torque locknuts are used for
frame attachments. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. For at-
tachments where clearance is minimal, low-profile
hexhead bolts and grade C prevailing torque locknuts
are used. For some components, grade 8.2 flanged A
hexhead bolts and grade G prevailing torque lock-
nuts are used for frame attachments. See Fig. 3.
Prevailing torque locknuts of all three bolt types have
distorted sections of threads to provide torque reten-
tion.
1 2
B
3
5 4
04/23/93 f230018
1. Collar 4. Breakneck
2. Huckbolt 5. Pulling Grooves
3. Locking Grooves C
Fig. 1, Huckbolt Fastener
10/19/93 f310006
When nonflanged hexhead bolts and locknuts are A. Grade 8 Hexhead C. Grade C Prevailing
used on an aluminum frame member or an attached Bolt Torque Locknut
part, a hardened flatwasher is required to prevent the B. Grade 8 Low-Profile
bolt head or nut from embedding in the frame or part. Hexhead Bolt
In general, hardened washers are used to distribute Fig. 2, Hexhead Fasteners
the load, and to prevent localized overstressing of
the frame rails, brackets, and other parts. They are Apply Alumilastic® compound, or an equivalent, to all
placed directly against the part, under the nut or bolt bolts, nuts, and washers that contact aluminum
head. These special hardened washers are used on frame rails or aluminum parts.
aluminum or steel frame rails, and for the engine rear
supports, rear suspension brackets, and fifth wheel
mountings. They are cadmium-or zinc-plated, and
CAUTION
have a hardness rating of 38 to 45 HRC. CAUTION: Failure to apply Alumilastic com-
Flanged hexhead bolts and locknuts have integral pound, or an equivalent, to areas where alumi-
flanges which eliminate the need for washers on num and steel parts contact each other, could
steel and aluminum surfaces. The fasteners are lead to corrosion of the metals, resulting in dam-
placed directly against the frame where the part is age to the frame or parts.
attached. Never hammer or screw bolts into place. Align the
holes of the frame and the part being attached to it,
HEXHEAD BOLT REPLACEMENT so that the nut and bolt surfaces are flush against
Replace hexhead bolts with identical fasteners. Refer the frame and the part. For bolts 4 inches (102 mm)
to the Freightliner Parts Book for fastener specifica- or less in length, make sure that at least 1-1/2
tions. threads and no more than 5/8-inch (16-mm) bolt

31.00 Frame Fasteners
General Information
1
2 3
B
02/22/93 f310007
4
A. Grade 8.2 Flanged Bolt
B. Grade G Prevailing Torque Locknut
02/21/94 f310081a
Fig. 3, Flanged Hexhead Fasteners 1. Anvil 3. Chisel
2. Lockbolt Collar 4. Lockbolt
length extend through the self-locking nut after it has
been tightened. For bolts longer than four inches Fig. 4, Huckbolt Removal
(102 mm), allow a minimum of 3 threads and a maxi-
mum of 3/4-inch (19-mm) bolt length. HUCKBOLT INSTALLATION
NOTE: Huckbolts cannot be installed without the
HUCKBOLT REMOVAL proper Huckbolt installation equipment.
Huckbolt HP8® frame fasteners ( see Fig. 1) have
parallel locking grooves on the lockbolt pintail. The 1. Insert the pintail through the prepared hole in the
swaged collar cannot be unscrewed. Use the Huck frame or other component. See Fig. 5.
Collar Cutter to remove HP8 fasteners. If the Collar
Cutter isn’t available, split the collar with an air chisel
while supporting the opposite side of the collar with
an anvil. See Fig. 4. Then, drive out the lockbolt with
a punch. Discard the fastener after removing it.
HUCK-FIT® frame fasteners have locking threads
instead of grooves; the collar can be removed using
a standard impact wrench and sockets. Discard the
fastener after removing it.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Never attempt to reuse any Huck fas-
tener that has been removed. Even though 04/28/93 f230019
HUCK-FIT fasteners can be removed with a
socket wrench, they cannot be correctly installed Fig. 5
again. Reusing any Huck frame fastener can re-
sult in damage to the vehicle frame or compo- 2. Place the collar over the pintail.
nents attached to the frame. 3. Place the Huck installation tool nose assembly
over the pintail. See Fig. 6. The pintail pulling

Frame Fasteners 31.00
General Information
grooves ratchet into the chuck jaws, which se-

curely grip the pintail.
04/28/93 f230022
Fig. 8
04/28/93 f230020
the pintail should break flush with the top of the
Fig. 6 collar. No more than two grooves should be vis-
4. As the installation tool trigger is pulled, the tool
ible on the collar after installation. See Fig. 9 for
piston and chuck jaws move rearward, pulling on examples of acceptable and unacceptable
the pintail, seating the bolt head, and closing the MAGNA-GRIP pintail breaks.
gap between the work surfaces. As pulling on the
pintail continues, the collar is swaged into the FRAME FASTENER TIGHTENING
locking grooves on the pintail; and the collar is
lengthened, developing clamping force.
See Fig. 7.
OK
OK
04/23/93 f230023
Fig. 9
04/28/93 f230021
Fig. 7
CAUTION
CAUTION: Continued vehicle operation with
5. The pintail breaks ( see Fig. 8), freeing the nose loose fasteners could result in component,
assembly anvil from the swaged collar. bracket, and frame damage.
NOTE: Most Huck fasteners have a constriction, Tighten hexhead bolts and locknuts periodically to
the breakneck ( see Fig. 1), which determines offset the effects of "bedding in" (seating). Refer to
the point where the pintail breaks free. MAGNA- the Maintenance Schedule and the frame section in
GRIP® fasteners do not have this breakneck; the vehicle maintenance manual for intervals.

31.00 Frame Fasteners
General Information
When tightening the fasteners, tighten the nut, not

the bolt head. This will give a true torque reading by
eliminating bolt body friction. For torque specifica-
tions, refer to the general information section in the
vehicle maintenance manual.
NOTE: Huck fasteners do not require periodic
tightening.

Frame Assembly 31.01
General Description and Handling
General Description Station 100 is located 100 inches (2540 mm) to the
rear of station zero. Station 100 is used when station
zero is not accessible because of vehicle assembly.
IMPORTANT: This service manual does not On vehicles equipped with steel frame rails, station
cover the procedures and calculations neces- 100 is identified by a 1/2-inch (13-mm) high "zero"
sary to perform frame modifications. For basic stamped near the top part of the frame rail web. On
information, refer to the Freightliner Body Build- vehicles equipped with aluminum frame rails, station
er’s Manual; for more extensive frame modifica- 100 is identified by a 1/16-inch (2-mm) deep drill
tions, be sure to consult with the Freightliner point impression near the top of the frame rail web.
Engineering Department. The vehicle’s frame drilling chart lists the location of
The main body of the frame is two frame rails se- each frame rail component. For example: if a compo-
cured together by crossmembers. See Fig. 1 and nent is given a location of 120.00, then that compo-
Fig. 2. The frame assembly is supported on the front nent is installed on the frame rail 120 inches (3048
and rear axles, and supports the rest of the chassis mm) aft of station zero, or 20 inches (508 mm) aft of
and body. station 100.
Both frame rails are made of steel or aluminum, and
both have identical specifications. Each rail has an Handling
upper flange, lower flange, and web (the surface
area between the flanges). The inside area of the Whenever the frame rails are lifted or moved, take
frame rail is called the channel. See Fig. 3. care to avoid anything that may scratch, cut, or dam-
age the exposed frame assembly. Cushion all chain
The crossmembers control axial rotation and longitu-
hoists or cable slings with a section of heavy hose. If
dinal motion of the rails, and reduce torsional stress
the frame rail is raised with a jack, place a block of
transmitted from one rail to the other. Crossmembers
wood between the jack and the frame rail.
are also used for vehicle component mounting, and
protecting the wires and tubing that are routed from Never heat the frame rails for straightening purposes.
one side of the vehicle to the other. Such work should be done cold, as the frame rails
have been heat-treated.
Follow the guidelines in this section when servicing
the frame. For information on installation of special-
ized equipment on the frame, refer elsewhere in this CAUTION
section.
Heating the frame rail for straightening purposes
FRAME STATIONS will reduce the strength of the rail in localized
areas, which can result in structural failure of the
A frame station is a reference point on the frame rail frame rail.
from which the location of each component (mounted
on the frame rail) is measured. There are two frame On both steel and aluminum frame rails, use pencil
stations on the frame rails: station zero (usually writ- lines or soapstone marking for any work that requires
ten as 0.00"); and station 100. See Fig. 4, Fig. 5, marking of the frame rail. High visibility can be ob-
Fig. 6, and Fig. 7. tained by first chalking the surface of the frame rail,
then making the pencil marks.
There is no identifying mark for station zero. On axle
forward vehicles ( Fig. 4), station zero is located 0.25
inch (6.4 mm) to the rear of the centerline of the front
CAUTION
suspension’s forward spring pin. On Conventionals Do not use scribe lines for marking or layout
with a setback axle ( Fig. 6 and Fig. 7), station zero work on aluminum frame rails. Scribe lines,
is located 15.5 inches (394 mm) forward of the cen- which cut or scratch the metal, can develop into
terline of the front suspension’s forward spring pin. starting points for structural damage to the
On COEs with a setback axle ( Fig. 5), station zero frame.
is located 23.75 inches (603 mm) forward of the cen-
terline of the front suspension’s forward spring pin.

31.01 Frame Assembly
2
3
5
06/06/96 f310021a
1. Frame Crossmembers 3. Upper Flange 5. Front Crossmember
2. Frame Rail Web 4. Lower Flange
Fig. 1, Frame Assembly, Drop-Style Front Crossmember and Frame Extension (axle forward shown)

3 2
04/24/95 f310299a
1. Frame Crossmembers 3. Upper Flange 5. Front Crossmember
2. Frame Rail Web 4. Lower Flange
Fig. 2, Frame Assembly, C-Channel Front Crossmember, Without Drop-Style Frame Extension (setback axle FLD
Conventional shown)
08/05/94
4 f310010a
1. Web 3. Channel
2. Upper Flange 4. Lower Flange
Fig. 3, Frame Terminology

2
15.5 "
1 (394 mm)
100 " (2540 mm)
0.25 " (6.4 mm)
100 " (2540 mm) 1 A
3 3
04/24/95 f310297a
1. Front Suspension Forward Spring Pin

2. Station 100 Mark (Station 100)
3. Station Zero (0.00)
Fig. 4, Frame Rail Stations, Axle Forward FLA COE 2

and FLD 120 Conventional
15.5 "
(394 mm)
100 " (2540 mm)
04/25/95
1 B f310204a
3 A. With Drop-Style Frame Extension
B. Without Drop-Style Frame Extension
2 Fig. 6, Frame Rail Stations, Setback Axle FLD 120

Conventional
23.75 "
1 (603 mm)
100 " (2540 mm)
04/24/95 f310298a

Fig. 5, Frame Rail Stations, Setback Axle FLA COE

15.5 "
(394 mm)
100 " (2540 mm)
1 A
3
2
15.5 "
(394 mm)
100 " (2540 mm)
1 B
04/25/95 f310300a
A. Built Before March 13, 1992

B. Built From March 13, 1992
Fig. 7, Frame Rail Stations, Setback Axle FLD 112

Conventional

Repairing Cracks, Filling Unused Holes, and
Drilling Holes
Repairing Cracks 2. Vee out the crack to a depth of two thirds of the
stock thickness. See Fig. 2.
IMPORTANT: Daimler Trucks North America NOTE: If it will not be possible to grind both
LLC recommends that cracked or damaged sides of the frame rail, then grind the vee
frame rails be replaced. In some cases it may groove on one side to the full depth of the stock
be necessary to repair minor damage; before thickness. See Fig. 3.
attempting any repairs, contact your regional 3. Clamp a copper or aluminum bar on the opposite
service representative for approval. side of the groove. The bar will act as a "chill"
strip, minimizing the spread of heat to the sur-
CAUTION rounding area of the frame rail. See Fig. 4. De-
posit the weld material using the applicable weld-
Before performing any electric welding on a ve- ing method described in this section.
hicle, disconnect the battery power and ground
cables and any electronic control units (ECUs) 4. Grind the weld flush with the frame rail. See
installed on the vehicle. Electric currents pro- Fig. 5.
duced during electric welding can damage vari- 5. Cut a deep enough vee groove on the opposite
ous electrical components on the vehicle, such side of the frame rail to reach the weld metal.
as alternator diodes and ECUs. See Fig. 6.
Freightliner vehicle components that typically 6. Clamp the "chill" strip on the opposite side of the
use ECUs include electronic engine, electronic groove. See Fig. 7. Weld the vee groove, as in-
automatic transmission, and ABS (antilock brak- structed above. Make full penetration of the weld.
ing system).
For any ECU with a battery power harness, dis-
connect its ground terminal from the chassis
A
ground, and disconnect its power terminal from
the battery positive post, or disconnect the main
connection at the ECU.
1. Drill a 1/8-inch (3-mm) diameter hole at each end
of the crack to prevent further spreading of the
crack. See Fig. 1.
B
08/14/95 f310013a
A. Frame Rail Thickness
1 B. Grind a vee groove to two thirds the depth of the
stock thickness.
09/19/2003 f310012c 1. Crack
1. Drilled 1/8-inch (3-mm) diameter hole.
2. Crack Fig. 2, Cross-Section View
7. Grind the weld flush with the frame rail. See

Fig. 1, Preventing Cracks from Spreading
Fig. 8.

Drilling Holes
A A
1 B
08/15/95 f310016a
08/14/95 f310014a
A. Frame Rail Thickness B. Grind the weld flush with the frame rail.
1. Vee Groove (full depth) 1. Crack
Fig. 3, Full Depth Groove Fig. 5, Weld Ground Flush
A A
B
C
08/15/95 f310017a
08/14/95 f310015a
A. Frame Rail Thickness A. Frame Rail Thickness
B. Clamp the "chill" strip on the opposite side of the B. Grind a vee groove deep enough to reach the weld.
groove.
C. Deposit weld material. Fig. 6, Cross-Section View
1. Crack
Fig. 4, Using a Chill Strip

Drilling Holes
Filling Unused Holes

A
1. Fill all unused holes in the frame assembly with
the applicable nut, washer, and bolt combination.
2. If the diameter of a hole is less than 3/8 inch (9.5
mm), enlarge it to 3/8 inch (9.5 mm), and fill it
with the applicable nut, washer, and bolt combi-
B nation.
C
3. Tighten the fasteners to the applicable torque
value. For proper frame fastening instructions,
refer elsewhere in this group.
Drilling Holes
During vehicle manufacture, holes are drilled or
punched in the frame rail only as specified on the
08/15/95 f310018a vehicle frame drilling chart. If any additional holes
A. Frame Rail Thickness need to be drilled, contact your regional service rep-
B. Deposit weld material to penetrate the opposite resentative for approval.
weld.
C. Clamp the "chill" strip on the opposite side of the A single exception to this rule is that holes may be
groove. drilled for tubing clips and the like through the web
portion of the channel only, with the following restric-
Fig. 7, Second Weld tions:
• The edge (not the center) of the hole must be
no closer than 1-11/32 inches (34 mm) from
A the outer face of the flange. See Fig. 9 for the
minimum distance to the flanges that holes can
be placed on the web.
A
B
08/14/95 f310020a
A. 1-11/32 inches (34 mm)
10/12/94 f310019a
A. Frame Rail Thickness Fig. 9, Minimum Distance for Drilling Holes
B. Grind the weld flush with the frame rail.
• Material between the centerline of the hole and
Fig. 8, Second Weld Ground Flush the outside of the upper or lower flange must
be at least 2-13/32 inches (60 mm).
• Minimum material between hole centerlines
must be 2 inches (50 mm).

Drilling Holes
• All attaching fasteners must be Grade 8. Flat

washers must be made with high-strength
steel.
• The minimum material between the rear-
suspension bracket and the end of the frame
must be at least 2 inches (50 mm).
• Holes between the front-axle centerline and the
rear-axle centerline cannot exceed 3/4 inch (19
mm).

Welding Frame Rails
Welding Frame Rails 5. Do not weld into the radius of the frame rail
flanges or along the edge of the flange.
PRECAUTIONS 6. Do not weld square with the frame side rail.

Make all reinforcing welds at least 30 degrees
IMPORTANT: There are very few cases in which from square. This will distribute the weld stresses
welding a heat-treated frame rail is allowable. If over a larger area.
possible, avoid direct welding of the frame rail 7. Do not notch, undercut, or leave craters during
web. Before any welding is done, contact your the welding process.
regional service representative for approval.
8. Keep as close to the weld centerline as possible.
CAUTION METHODS FOR STEEL
CAUTION: Weld only as instructed in this sec- Gas-metal arc welding is the recommended method.
tion; all precautions and methods must be If gas-metal arc welding is not available, coated-
strictly followed. Failure to do so can reduce the electrode arc welding can be used. For both gas-
structural strength in the welded area of the metal arc welding and coated-electrode arc welding,
frame rail. direct current reverse polarity is recommended, how-
ever, alternating current can be used. Use either a
CAUTION short arc beading technique or a narrow weave
technique.
Before performing any electric welding on a ve-
hicle, disconnect the battery power and ground 1. Review the information under "Precautions."
cables and any electronic control units (ECUs) Then, if using the gas-metal arc weld method,
installed on the vehicle. Electric currents pro- proceed to the next step. If using the coated-
duced during electric welding can damage vari- electrode arc weld method, go to the step after
ous electrical components on the vehicle, such the next, below.
as alternator diodes and ECUs. 2. For the gas-metal arc welding method, use the
Freightliner vehicle components that typically following requirements and specifications:
use ECUs include electronic engine, electronic 2.1 Use weld wire that meets American Weld-
automatic transmission, and ABS (antilock braking Society (AWS) specification A 5.28,
ing system). Class E110S.
For any ECU with a battery power harness, dis-
connect its ground terminal from the chassis 2.2 Use Linde M-5 gas or an equivalent
ground, and disconnect its power terminal from argon-oxygen mixture of 5 percent oxy-
the battery positive post, or disconnect the main gen.
connection at the ECU. 2.3 For applicable machine settings, refer to
the appropriate table under Specifica-
1. Do not weld attachments to the frame rail. For tions, 400.
guidelines on the attachment of equipment on
the frame rails, refer elsewhere in this group. 3. For the coated-electrode arc welding method,
use 1/8-inch thick AWS-E-11018 type weld rod.
2. Use only the applicable welding method under For amperage and voltage settings of each weld
"Methods for Steel," or "Method for Aluminum." position, refer to the appropriate table under
3. Before welding, clean off any oil, grease, paint, Specifications, 400.
scale, and other contaminants. Wipe dry with a IMPORTANT: Always keep the weld rod free of
clean cloth. moisture. The welding rod being used should
4. Do not weld in an area that allows drafts from come directly from a hermetically sealed con-
any source such as windows, engines, or fans, tainer, or be dried at least one hour in a 700° to
as it will affect the soft flow of gas from the weld- 800°F (371° to 427°C) oven. Immediately after
ing gun.

Welding Frame Rails
removal from a sealed container or after drying,

store the welding rod in an oven at 250°F
(121°C). A welding rod that has been exposed
to the atmosphere longer than one-half hour
must be dried before use.
NOTE: On 1/4-inch thick frame rails only, AWS-
E-9018 type weld rod can be used, however,
AWS-E-11018 type weld rod is recommended.
METHOD FOR ALUMINUM

The following is for welding on truck vehicles with
frame rails of aluminum alloy 6061-T6. Use gas-
metal arc welding only.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not weld on tractor vehicles with
aluminum frame rails. Tractor service imposes
high stress in the rear frame area. Welding will
result in excessive stress in this area.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not weld frame rails of aluminum
alloy 2014-T6. Welding on this alloy can result in
hot cracking, and create a heat-affected zone
susceptible to stress-corrosion cracking.
1. Review the information under "Precautions."
2. Use Linde welding wire 4043 HG, or equivalent,
with a 1/16-inch diameter.
3. Use Linde T Argon gas, or an equivalent plain
argon gas, for the inert envelope of the welding
arc.
4. Because of various conditions, consult the weld-
ing equipment manufacturer to determine the
machine setting.

Lengthening Frame Rails
Lengthening Frame Rails piece of clean, 1/16-inch (1.6-mm) diameter

bare steel wire between the extension and
frame rail. The wire sections must be short
STEEL RAILS enough to be completely fused by the welding
Steel frame rails can be lengthened by welding a process.
frame rail extension onto the rear of the frame rail.
The frame rail end and the extension piece are cut 4. Using one of the methods in Sub-
so that they overlap each other. Obtain approval from ject 110, "Methods for Steel," weld the exten-
your regional service representative before welding sion to the frame rail, making full penetration
and lengthening the frame rail. as shown in Fig. 4. Remove any slag between
passes, and back-gouge the root of the first vee
before welding the other side.
CAUTION
Before performing any electric welding on a ve- CAUTION
hicle, disconnect the battery power and ground
CAUTION: Residual stresses will occur in the
cables and any electronic control units (ECUs)
weld if the web area is not welded first, or if the
installed on the vehicle. Electric currents pro-
flanges contact each other when welding the
duced during electric welding can damage vari-
web.
ous electrical components on the vehicle, such
as alternator diodes and ECUs. IMPORTANT: Weld the web area first, then the
Freightliner vehicle components that typically flange, working from the inside of the channel.
use ECUs include electronic engine, electronic When welding the web, make sure that the
automatic transmission, and ABS (antilock brak- flanges do not contact each other.
ing system).
5. When finished welding, sand the joint for appear-
For any ECU with a battery power harness, dis- ance. Hold the sander so that the grind runs par-
connect its ground terminal from the chassis allel with the length of the frame rail.
ground, and disconnect its power terminal from
the battery positive post, or disconnect the main
connection at the ECU. CAUTION
1. Cut the frame rail end and extension to the appli- CAUTION: Do not "hollow grind" the weld. Small
cable dimensions. Figure 1 illustrates the cutting depressions from improper grinding of the weld
dimensions for the frame rail and extension for will reduce the strength of the frame rail.
truck vehicles. Figure 2 is for tractor vehicles.
Refer only to the figure that relates to the vehicle ALUMINUM RAILS
being modified.
Only truck vehicles equipped with aluminum frame
NOTE: If the length of the extension is to be 6 rails made of aluminum alloy 6061-T6 can be length-
inches (152 mm) or less, then straight-cut the ened by welding an extension onto the rear of the
frame rail end and extension. frame rail. Obtain approval from your regional service
representative before welding and lengthening the
2. Grind the cut ends of the frame rail and exten- frame rail.
sion to the dimensions in Fig. 3.
NOTE: Refer to spec line numbers 552 and 554
3. Align the cut ends of the extension piece with the
in the frame section in the Vehicle Spec Sheet.
cut ends of the frame rail so that there is a
1/16-to 1/8-inch (1.6- to 3.2-mm) gap between If the frame rail part number is 15-09331, the
them. See Fig. 3. Using a torch, heat the cut frame rail is aluminum alloy 6061-T6. If the part
ends to 70°F (21°C) before welding. number is 15-09388, the frame rail is aluminum
alloy 2014-T6.
NOTE: A 1/16-inch (1.6-mm) gap is recom-
mended. The ends must not contact each other.
Maintain the joint spacing by placing a short

UPPER EXTENSION
FLANGE LENGTH
30°
A
B
WEB
45° A
C
LOWER
FLANGE A
30°
B
D
NOTE: Left rail shown; right rail will be opposite dimensions.

FRAME DIMENSION
RAIL SIZE A B C D
inches inches (mm) inches (mm) inches (mm) inches (mm)
10.06 0.69 (17.5) 5.00 (127.0) 8.75 (222.2) 18.75 (476.2)
10.12 0.69 (17.5) 5.00 (127.0) 8.75 (222.2) 18.75 (476.2)
10.38 1.12 (28.6) 5.00 (127.0) 10.00 (254.0) 20.00 (508.0)
06/30/97 f310027
Fig. 1, Steel Frame Rail and Extension Cutting Dimensions for Truck Vehicles
Welding on aluminum alloy 2014-T6 can result in

CAUTION hot cracking, and create a heat-affected zone
susceptible to stress-corrosion cracking.
CAUTION: Do not weld extensions on tractor ve-
hicles equipped with aluminum frame rails, or on 1. Cut the frame rail end and extension to the appli-
any vehicles equipped with frame rails made of cable dimensions in Fig. 5.
aluminum alloy 2014-T6. Tractor service imposes
high stress in the rear frame area. Welding in this
area could result in excessive frame rail stress.

D
B
30°
UPPER FLANGE A
C EXTENSION
LENGTH
A 45°
WEB
B
A
LOWER FLANGE
30°

FRAME DIMENSION
RAIL SIZE A B C D
10.06 0.69 (17.5) 5.00 (127.0) 8.75 (222.2) 18.75 (476.2)
10.12 0.69 (17.5) 5.00 (127.0) 8.75 (222.2) 18.75 (476.2)
10.38 1.12 (28.6) 5.00 (127.0) 10.00 (254.0) 20.00 (508.0)
06/30/97 f310028
Fig. 2, Steel Frame Rail and Extension Cutting Dimensions for Tractor Vehicles
2. Grind the cut ends of the frame rail and exten- 1/16-to 1/8-inch (1.6- to 3.2-mm) gap between
sion, over the full length of the cut, to the dimen- them. See Fig. 6.
sions in Fig. 6.
NOTE: A 1/16-inch (1.6-mm) gap is recom-
3. Clean all surfaces to be joined, with vapor de- mended. The ends must not contact each other.
greasing equipment, or by swabbing with clean, Maintain the joint spacing by placing a short
oil-free solvents, or by stainless steel wire brush- piece of clean, 1/16-inch (1.6-mm) diameter alu-
ing. minum welding wire (E4043) between the exten-
4. Align the cut ends of the extension piece with the sion and frame rail. The wire sections must be
cut ends of the frame rail so that there is a short enough to be completely fused by the
welding process.

single rapid pass at the bottom of the vee. This

60°
A B will keep total heat input to the joint at a mini-
mum.
6. Without weaving motion of the electrode, make
the final fill over the same path, first on the in-
side of the channel, then the outside.
7. When finished welding, sand the joint for appear-
1/16" to 1/8" 0" to 1/16"
ance. Hold the sander so that the grind runs par-
(1.6 to 3.2 mm) (0 to 1.6 mm) allel with the length of the frame rail.
10/12/94 f310025a
A. Frame Rail Thickness CAUTION
B. Extension Thickness
CAUTION: Do not "hollow grind" the weld. Small
Fig. 3, Grinding Dimensions depressions from improper grinding of the weld
will reduce the strength of the frame rail.
A B C
10/12/94 D f310026a
B. First Weld
C. Extension Thickness
D. Second weld penetrates the first weld.
Fig. 4, Correct Weld Penetration
5. Using the method in Sub-

ject 110, Method for Aluminum, weld the exten-
sion to the frame rail, making full penetration
as shown in Fig. 4. Remove any slag between
passes, and back-gouge the root of the first vee
before welding the other side.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Residual stresses will occur in the
weld if the web area is not welded first, or if the
flanges contact each other when welding the
web.
IMPORTANT: Weld the web area first, then the
flanges, working from the inside of the channel.
When welding the web, make sure that the
flanges do not contact each other. Lay the filler
metal at a relatively high temperature, in a

UPPER EXTENSION
FLANGE LENGTH
30°
0.88" (22.4 mm) 4.56" (115.8 mm)
WEB
45° 1.25" (31.8 mm)
1.25" (31.8 mm)
7.62"
(193.5 mm)
LOWER
FLANGE
0.88" (22.4 mm)
30°
4.56"
(115.8 mm) 16.75"
(425.5 mm)
Note: Left rail shown; right rail will be opposite dimensions.
06/30/97 f310029
Fig. 5, Aluminum Frame Rail and Extension Cutting Dimensions for Truck Vehicles Only

Frame Rail 70° Extension

Thickness Thickness
1/16" to 1/8"
(1.6 to 3.2mm) 1/16"
(1.6mm)
02/22/93 f310289
Fig. 6

Crossmember Removal and Installation
Removal 1. Disconnect any suspension torque rod bracket(s)

that are attached to the crossmember. Note the
number and location of any spacers.
The placement of crossmembers affects the overall
stability of the frame. If a crossmember is being 2. If the relay valve or quick-release valve is at-
eliminated, added, or relocated, contact your regional tached to the channel crossmember, drain the air
service representative for instructions and approval. reservoirs, then remove the valve(s) from the
crossmember.
REAR-CLOSING CROSSMEMBER Remove any clamps that attach air lines or wir-
1. Chock the tires. ing to the crossmember.
2. Remove the taillights from the rear-closing cross- 3. Remove all fasteners that attach the channel
member. If so equipped, remove the backup crossmember to the upper and lower gussets.
alarm. Work the crossmember out of the gussets, then
work it out of the top or bottom of the frame rails.
3. If the relay valve or quick-release valve is at-
tached to the rear-closing crossmember, drain 4. If removal of the gussets is needed, and if they
the air reservoirs, then remove the valve(s) from attach to the frame with the same fasteners as
the crossmember. the suspension brackets, chock the tires, and
use safety stands to support the frame at its nor-
Remove any clamps that attach air lines or wir- mal unloaded ride height. Remove the fasteners
ing to the crossmember. that attach the gussets and frame brackets to the
4. Remove the rear mud flap brackets and fasten- frame rails. For assembly reference, note the
ers. direction that the bolts are installed. Remove the
gussets and (if equipped) frame spacers.
5. Remove the fasteners that attach the crossmem-
ber to the angle brackets. ALLIGATOR CROSSMEMBER
6. Remove the fasteners that attach the rearmost 1. Using the above instructions, remove the rear-
angle brackets to each frame rail, and remove closing crossmember and angle brackets, and
the rearmost angle brackets. For assembly refer- remove the channel crossmember, gussets, and
ence, note the direction that the bolts are in- (if equipped) frame spacers.
stalled.
2. If air reservoirs are mounted inside the frame
7. Tip the top of the rear-closing crossmember to rails, remove any air reservoirs that are mounted
the rear and down, then slide it out the rear of rearward of the alligator crossmember that must
the frame rails. be replaced. Use the air reservoir removal in-
8. If needed, remove the forwardmost angle brack- structions in the applicable brake section in this
ets and their fasteners. If the rear spring brack- manual.
ets are attached to the frame rails with the same 3. Remove the alligator crossmember that must be
fasteners that attach the angle brackets, before replaced, and any alligator crossmembers
removing the fasteners, support the rear of the mounted rearward of it, as follows:
frame at its normal ride height, using safety
stands. After removing the fasteners, remove the 3.1 Remove the fasteners that attach the
rear spring brackets from the springs. crossmember lower struts to the cross-
member, and to the frame rails. For as-
CHANNEL CROSSMEMBER sembly reference, note the direction that
the bolts are installed. Remove the lower
NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with a fifth struts.
wheel, and the fifth wheel interferes with re-
moval of the channel crossmember, refer to the 3.2 If removing a midship bearing crossmem-
applicable fifth wheel section in this manual, for ber, support the driveline on a safety
stand, then remove the fasteners that at-
fifth wheel removal instructions.

tach the midship bearing bracket to the 6. Using the instructions below, install the channel
crossmember. crossmember, gussets, and (if equipped) frame
spacers, then install the rear-closing crossmem-
3.3 If removing the rear cab-mount cross- ber and angle brackets.
member from a Conventional, support the
fuel tanks, then remove the fasteners 7. Check the frame rail alignment, and align the
from the fuel tank brackets. Using an frame rails if needed; refer to Subject 140.
overhead hoist, support the rear of the
8. If the rear cab-mount crossmember was in-
cab, then remove the cab suspension
stalled, attach the fuel tank brackets to the frame
bracket from the cab and the crossmem-
rails, if not already done. Tighten the fasteners to
ber.
the torque values in the general information sec-
3.4 From the weld studs in the frame rails, tion in the vehicle maintenance manual.
remove the clamps that attach any wiring
Install the cab suspension bracket on the cross-
or air lines that might interfere with cross-
member, lower the cab, remove the overhead
member removal.
hoist, then attach the cab suspension bracket to
3.5 Unbolt the crossmember, then (if the cab.
equipped) remove the frame spacer from
9. If the midship crossmember was installed, attach
each frame rail. For assembly reference,
the midship bearing bracket to the crossmember.
note the direction that the bolts are in-
Tighten the fasteners to the applicable torque
stalled. Slide the crossmember out the
values in the general information section in the
rear of the frame rails, lifting it or lowering
it as needed to clear the weld studs.
10. If any air reservoirs were removed, install them,
Installation using the instructions in the brake section in this
manual.
ALLIGATOR CROSSMEMBER CHANNEL CROSSMEMBER
NOTE: If more than one alligator crossmember IMPORTANT: If an alligator crossmember is also
is being installed, begin with the one that be- being installed, install it first.
longs farthest toward the front of the vehicle.
1. If equipped, position the correct thickness of
1. Slide the crossmember into the opening at the frame spacer in each channel of the frame.
rear of the frame rails, and work it over or under
the weld studs until it is approximately aligned If they were removed, install the upper and lower
with its mounting holes in the frame rails. gussets in both sides of the frame, but do not
tighten the fasteners at this time. Be sure to in-
2. If equipped, position the correct thickness of stall each bolt in the same direction that was
frame spacer between each end of the cross- noted during removal.
member and the frame rail. Install the fasteners,
but do not tighten them at this time. Be sure to 2. Work the channel crossmember into the top or
install each bolt in the same direction that was bottom of the frame, then work it into position in
noted during removal. the gussets. Install the fasteners that attach the
crossmember to the gussets, but do not tighten
3. If more than one alligator crossmember is being them at this time.
installed, repeat steps above as required for the
other crossmember(s). 3. If it was removed from the channel crossmem-
ber, install the relay valve or quick-release valve
4. Install any clamps that were removed from the on the crossmember. Securely tighten the fasten-
weld studs in the frame rails. ers.
5. Install the lower struts, attaching them to the Install any clamps that attach air lines or wiring
frame rails, and to the crossmember(s). Do not to the crossmember.
tighten the fasteners at this time.

4. If so equipped, attach the suspension torque rod 7. Install the taillights on the rear-closing cross-
bracket(s) to the crossmember. Be sure the member. If so equipped,install the backup alarm.
spacers are installed in the same location noted
Install any clamps that attach air lines or wiring
during removal. Tighten the bracket fasteners to
to the crossmember.
the applicable torque value in the general infor-
mation section in the vehicle maintenance 8. If an alligator crossmember is also being in-
manual. stalled, go to "Alligator Crossmember," above.
5. If an alligator crossmember is also being in- If an alligator crossmember is not being installed,
stalled, go to "Rear-Closing Crossmember," be- tighten the fasteners that attach the angle brack-
low. ets to the frame rails, then tighten the fasteners
that attach the crossmember to the angle brack-
If an alligator crossmember is not being installed,
install the fifth wheel if it was removed; refer to ets. Tighten the fasteners to the applicable
the fifth wheel section in this manual. Tighten the torque values in the general information section
fasteners that attach the channel crossmember in the vehicle maintenance manual.
gussets to the frame rails, then tighten the fas-
teners that attach the crossmember to the gus-
sets. Tighten the fasteners to the applicable
torque values in the general information section
in the vehicle maintenance manual.
REAR-CLOSING CROSSMEMBER
IMPORTANT: If an alligator crossmember(s) is
also being installed, install it first.
1. If they were removed, install the forwardmost
angle brackets, but do not tighten the fasteners
at this time. If the rear spring brackets attach to
the frame rails with the same fasteners that at-
tach the angle brackets, install the rear spring
brackets at this time. Then, remove the safety
stands from under the frame rails. Be sure to
install each bolt in the same direction that was
noted during removal.
2. Slide the crossmember into the opening at the
rear of the frame rails, then turn it upright, to po-
sition it against the angle brackets.
3. Attach the rearmost angle brackets to the frame
rails, but do not tighten the fasteners at this time.
4. Install but do not tighten the fasteners that attach
the crossmember to the angle brackets.
5. Install the rear mud flap brackets,and tighten the
fasteners to the applicable torque value in the
general information section in the vehicle mainte-
nance manual.
6. If it was removed from the rear-closing cross-
member, install the relay valve or quick-release
valve on the crossmember. Securely tighten the
fasteners.

Frame Rail Alignment
Frame Rail Alignment 3. As equipped, remove the fifth wheel and deck
plate from the frame. Refer to the fifth wheel sec-
tion in this manual for instructions.
Frame rail alignment is checked by measuring the
distances from two sets of points on the upper 4. Measure back along each frame rail, to find a set
flanges of the frame rails. See Fig. 1. The rear set of of bolt holes at least 72 inches (183 cm) rear-
points must be as far back as possible from the forward from the forward set of points. The bolt
ward set of points. There must be no interference, holes must be in exactly the same location in
along or between the frame rails, that would prevent each frame rail.
measuring from any one of the four points to the
other three points; the fifth wheel and deck plate (as IMPORTANT: If, because of interference, the
equipped) must be removed. distance must be less than 72 inches (183 cm),
the distance must be the maximum that is pos-
There are no marks or bolt holes in the top flanges
sible.
of the frame rails. Therefore, the points must be pro-
jected from the frame station marks and from the bolt 5. Project the exact vertical centerline of each bolt
holes on the frame rail webs. hole, and mark a line across the top flange of its
respective frame rail.
IMPORTANT: Use a pencil or soapstone to
make all lines, points, or other marks. Do not 6. Along each line, measure and mark a point 2
inches (5 cm) inboard from the outside face of its
use any marker or tool that will scratch the sur- respective frame rail. The rear points must be in
face of the frame rail. Use a machinist’s square identical locations on both frame rails.
to project all points from the webs to the upper
flanges, and to measure inboard from the out- 7. At the forward set of points, and again at the
side face of the frame rails. rear set of points, measure the distance across
the frame, from the outside face of each frame
1. For each frame rail, project the exact vertical rail. At both locations, this distance must be
centerline of the frame station 100 mark, from 33.50 inches (851 mm). See Fig. 1.
the frame web to the top flange, and mark it with
a line across the top flange. If the distance at either location is incorrect,
check the Freightliner Parts Book pages to deter-
If, because of interference, frame station 100 mine which thickness of frame spacers, if any,
cannot be used, choose and mark another belong between the crossmembers and the
matched set of points, as follows: frame rails. Check for the correct spacers, and
add or remove spacers as needed, using the
1.1 Determine how far forward that the upper
procedures in Subject 130.
flanges of both frame rails are clear.
8. Measure the distance from the forward point on
1.2 Find a matched set of bolt holes on the
one frame rail to the rear point on the opposite
frame rail webs, that are aligned with, or
frame rail. See Fig. 1. Then measure the dis-
just rearward of, the front of the clear
tance from the other forward point to the rear
area on the flanges. The bolt holes must
point on its opposite frame rail. Compare the two
be in exactly the same location in each
measurements.
frame rail.
If the values differ by more than 1/8 inch (3mm),
1.3 Project the exact vertical centerline of
proceed to the next step.
each bolt hole, and mark a line across
the top flange of its respective frame rail. If the measurements are within 1/8 inch (3 mm)
of each other, the frame rails do not need to be
2. Find the exact center of the width of each upper
aligned. If any frame fasteners are loose, tighten
flange, and mark the point on each projected
as described below. If no fasteners are loose,
line. This will be the forward set of points. The
install the fifth wheel and proceed as described
forward points must be in identical locations on
below.
both frame rails.

Frame Rail Alignment
Right Forward RIGHT Right Rear

Point or FRAME Point or
Bolt Hole RAIL Bolt Hole
33.50" 33.50"
(851 mm) (851 mm)
Left Forward LEFT Left Rear

Point or FRAME Point or
02/22/93 Bolt Hole RAIL Bolt Hole f310022
Fig. 1
9. Loosen all of the frame fasteners just enough to 14. If the frame rails needed aligning, check the axle
allow movement of the parts when force is ap- alignment; refer to the rear axle section in this
plied. manual for instructions.
IMPORTANT: To align the frame rails, the frame
assembly must be assembled with all of the
crossmembers in place, but the attachment fas-
teners not tightened.
10. Using a large hammer and a large wooden
block, place the block against the rear end of the
frame rail that had its rear point the greater dis-
tance from its opposite rail’s front point. Tap the
block until the measurements are within 1/8 inch
(3 mm) of each other.
11. Tighten the fasteners for the front-and rear-
closing crossmembers to their applicable torque
values; refer to the general information section in
the vehicle maintenance manual. Again, check
the frame rail alignment (described above).
12. When the measurements are within specifica-
tions, install the fifth wheel and deck plate (as
equipped); refer to the fifth wheel section in this
13. Tighten all of the frame fasteners, starting at the
middle of the frame and working alternately to-
ward both ends. First, tighten the fasteners that
attach crossmembers to the frame. Then, tighten
the fasteners that attach the upper and lower
struts or gussets to the frame. Finally, tighten the
fasteners that attach the lower struts or gussets
to the crossmembers. Tighten all fasteners to
their applicable torque values, as specified in the
general information section in the vehicle mainte-
nance manual.

Frame Shaping
Frame Shaping RADIUS

0.06" to 0.12"
(1.5 to 3.0 mm) FLANGE
IMPORTANT: Obtain approval from your re-
gional service representative before doing any
cutting or frame shaping.
0.06" to 0.12"
If the flange of a frame rail is cut (for relief cuts or (1.5 to 3.0 mm)
notches), shape the edges of the flange to form a
smooth ground radius of 0.06 to 0.12 inch (1.5 to 3.0
mm) over the entire length of the cut. Figure 1 RADIUS
shows this dimension of the edge radius of the frame WEB
rail flanges.
NOTE: For information on relief cuts or notches, 02/22/93 f310024
refer elsewhere in this group.
Fig. 1, Radius Dimensions
WARNING
WARNING: Wear protective eye and facial gear 1. Flange
when grinding. Failure to wear this gear can re-
sult in personal injury due to flying metal debris
from the grinding process.
Using a clean, sharp, rotary drum grinder or flapper 1
wheel grinder, apply light pressure and grind the cut
edges in the direction of the length of the frame rail,
to form the radius. Do not grind across the edges.
See Fig. 2.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Apply light pressure only. Heavy pres- 02/22/93 f310023
sure can result in harmful overheating and loss
Fig. 2, Direction of Grind
of surface temper. Grind only in the direction of
the cut. See Fig. 2. Grinding across the direction
of the cut can reduce the structural strength of
the frame rail.

Specifications
Machine Settings for Gas-Metal Arc Welding

Current Wire Extension
Wire Diameter:
inches (mm) Optimum: Maximum: Minimum: Maximum:
amperes amperes inches (mm) inches (mm)
0.045 (1.14) 160 320 1/2 (13) 3/4 (19)
1/16 (1.6) 300 600 3/4 (19) 1-1/8 (29)
5/64 (2.0) 480 960 1 (25) 1-1/2 (38)
Table 1, Machine Settings for Gas-Metal Arc Welding
Amperage and Voltage Settings for Coated-

Electrode Arc Welding
Weld Position Amperes Volts
Downhand 130/140 21/23
Overhead 130/140 21/23
Vertical Up 110/120 22/24
Table 2, Amperage and Voltage Settings for
Coated-Electrode Arc Welding
Refer to the figures in this subject as follows: Fig. 1,

Steel Frame Rail and Extension Cutting Dimensions
for Truck Vehicles; Fig. 2, Steel Frame Rail and Ex-
tension Cutting Dimensions for Tractor Vehicles; and
Fig. 3, Aluminum Frame Rail and Extension Cutting
Dimensions for Truck Vehicles Only.

Specifications
UPPER EXTENSION
FLANGE LENGTH
30°
A
B
WEB
45° A
C
LOWER
FLANGE A
30°
B
D

FRAME DIMENSION
RAIL SIZE A B C D
10.06 0.69 (17.5) 5.00 (127.0) 8.75 (222.2) 18.75 (476.2)
10.12 0.69 (17.5) 5.00 (127.0) 8.75 (222.2) 18.75 (476.2)
10.38 1.12 (28.6) 5.00 (127.0) 10.00 (254.0) 20.00 (508.0)
06/30/97 f310027
Fig. 1, Steel Frame Rail and Extension Cutting Dimensions for Truck Vehicles

Specifications
D
B
30°
UPPER FLANGE A
C EXTENSION
LENGTH
A 45°
WEB
B
A
LOWER FLANGE
30°

FRAME DIMENSION
RAIL SIZE A B C D
10.06 0.69 (17.5) 5.00 (127.0) 8.75 (222.2) 18.75 (476.2)
10.12 0.69 (17.5) 5.00 (127.0) 8.75 (222.2) 18.75 (476.2)
10.38 1.12 (28.6) 5.00 (127.0) 10.00 (254.0) 20.00 (508.0)
06/30/97 f310028
Fig. 2, Steel Frame Rail and Extension Cutting Dimensions for Tractor Vehicles

Specifications
UPPER EXTENSION
FLANGE LENGTH
30°
0.88" (22.4 mm) 4.56" (115.8 mm)
WEB
45° 1.25" (31.8 mm)
1.25" (31.8 mm)
7.62"
(193.5 mm)
LOWER
FLANGE
0.88" (22.4 mm)
30°
4.56"
(115.8 mm) 16.75"
(425.5 mm)
Note: Left rail shown; right rail will be opposite dimensions.
06/30/97 f310029
Fig. 3, Aluminum Frame Rail and Extension Cutting Dimensions for Truck Vehicles Only

Installation of Aftermarket Equipment on the Chassis
Frame 31.02
General Information
General Information
Specialized equipment (such as a dump box, tank,
hoist, lift, winch, or derrick) is often added to a ve-
hicle by distributors or installers other than the ve-
hicle manufacturer. Usually, the vehicle is equipped
with a standard chassis frame and the vehicle manu-
facturer has not made special provisions for the addi-
tional equipment, unless otherwise requested at as-
sembly.
The final-stage manufacturer must be aware of fed-
eral requirements for certification, noise, emissions,
brakes, lighting systems, fuel systems, and others.
Specialized equipment installers are liable for the
safety and durability of their product. The specialized
equipment installed by the final manufacturer must
comply with all applicable OSHA regulations and De-
partment of Transportation vehicle certification re-
quirements.

Frame 31.02
Attachment Guidelines
Guidelines Disadvantages
1. Providing access for drilling holes in the frame
Any attachment of specialized equipment to the may require disassembly of chassis components.
chassis frame will produce stress concentrations.The
addition of holes,welds,clamps, reinforcements,or 2. Drilling holes in heat-treated frames involves
splices will cause a local increase in stress. Figure 1 higher pressures and requires special drilling
illustrates a number of typical stress concentrations equipment, preferably a positive-feed machine.
in frame side-rails. The location on the chassis
frame, the severity and frequency of the applied load,
and the type of concentrator will all serve to deter-
mine the effect, if any, the stress concentrations have
on the life of the structure.
Notches placed at any location along the side-rail are
critical. Figure 2 illustrates a clearance notch on the
side-rail flange, typical of the kind added by final-
stage manufacturers. As shown, the side-rail cracked
at the notch (after a few months of vehicle use). The
probable causes of the crack were the installer’s fail-
ure to use care in grinding, to ensure that there was
a smooth blend over a distance with no nicks or
rough edges, and to check first with the vehicle
manufacturer to determine the magnitude of stress in
this area.
IMPORTANT: The practice of adding clearance 06/27/97 f310001
notches to the frame side-rails may adversely Fig. 1, Typical Side-Rail Stress Concentrations
affect the frame warranty, and the installer may
be responsible for any consequences resulting
from the notches.
Below, three common methods of attaching special-
ized equipment to the frame chassis are discussed.
Under each method are the general advantages and
disadvantages of using that method—they can help
the installer decide which method of attachment is
best in a given situation. Also included are guidelines
that should be followed by the final-stage manufac-
turer when using a particular method of attachment.
Bolt Attachment
Bolt attachment includes clips, brackets, and fish-
plates.
Advantage
02/23/93 f310002
When the holes used for bolting are in the least criti-
cal areas possible, bolting is preferred for its versatil- Fig. 2, Damaged Side Rail
ity and strength.
Guidelines
The following is intended to emphasize the impor-
tance of hole locations in the side-rails, and help

31.02 Frame
final-stage manufacturers to avoid some pitfalls

which could lead to premature failures.
UPPER
Figure 3 depicts a channel section frame side-rail FLANGE
loaded as a beam. This type of loading stretches the
lower half of the section (produces tension) and com- WEB
presses the upper half of the section (produces com-
pression), as indicated by the arrows. If the side-rail
section was without holes, the highest concentrations
of stress (tension and compression) would be in the
lower and upper flanges of the rail.
However, Fig. 3 shows two holes in the lower half of
the rail. The uppermost hole is located about one- LOWER
third of the web depth up from the lower flange. FLANGE
Stress (tension) at the bottom of this hole would be
approximately equal to the stress in the lower flange.
Any hole located less than this distance (for ex-
ample, the hole located nearer to the lower flange in
Fig. 3) will have significantly higher stress than will
the flange. The reason for the difference in stress
among the holes is that the upper hole is located
closer to the neutral axis of the rail, or the area
where the forces of tension and compression do not
exist.
Based on these conditions, the recommendations
below should be followed whenever equipment is to
be bolted to the chassis frame:
1. Use existing holes where possible. When holes 02/22/93 f310003
must be drilled, they should be located no closer
to the top and bottom side-rail flanges than the Fig. 3
existing holes placed by the factory.
2. U-bolts avoid frame drilling, which is especially
2. Avoid drilling holes in any area of the side-rail helpful when the vehicle is equipped with a heat-
web except the central one-third area (the web is treated frame.
the surface area between the flanges). Depend-
ing on loading, the top or the bottom of the side- Disadvantages
rail can be the tension side. Before drilling holes
in the side rails, obtain approval from your re- 1. Since U-bolts or clamps are not always attached
gional service representative. (locked) to the frame, there is the possibility of
heavy equipment moving or being jarred out of
3. In all cases, avoid drilling holes in the side-rail place, especially if grease or oil is present on the
flanges. frame rail.
2. The nuts of the U-bolts or clamps require more
U-Bolt and Clamp Attachment frequent retorquing than do those of bolted at-
Advantages tachments to the frame.
1. Generally,clamping devices, such as that shown 3. U-bolts and clamps cannot hold high torque
in Fig. 4, are the least time-consuming and least loads.
expensive methods of attachment. 4. U-bolts and clamps cause local stress concentra-
tions.

Frame 31.02
Guidelines
1. Care should be used to block (with spacers) the
side-rail channel to prevent collapse of the
flanges when the U-bolts are tightened. Metal
blocks are preferred, because wood may shrink
and drop out.
2. The blocks utilized to prevent collapse of the
side-rail flanges should not interfere with plumb-
ing or wiring routed along the frame rails. In ad-
dition, the blocks should not be welded to the
side-rail flanges.
3. Since U-bolts and clamping devices depend on
friction and a maintained clamping force for at-
tachment, some bolts should directly connect the
attachment to the frame side-rail web to prevent
the attachment from slipping.
06/27/97 f310004
4. Do not notch frame side-rail flanges in order to
"force" a U-bolt fit, as shown in Fig. 5. If the Fig. 4, Side-Rail Clamp
side-rail flanges are too wide, obtain a larger
U-bolt or use another method of attachment.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Notching a side-rail flange severely
weakens the structure, and could ultimately re-
sult in side-rail fracture. With complete side-rail
fracture, other chassis parts could be damaged
with consequent substantial increase in repairs.
Weld Attachment
There are very few cases in which welding on a heat
treated side-rail is allowable. Direct welding of the
side-rail flanges and web should be avoided. To
avoid direct welding, equipment bracketry should be 06/27/97 f310005
welded on a separate reinforcement, and the rein-
forcement should be bolted to the side-rail. It is rec- Fig. 5, Side-Rail Clamp
ommended that before any direct welding to the side-
rails is performed, the Freightliner Corporate Sales For a full-length reinforcement, the front of the rein-
Engineering Department be consulted. forcement should extend past the front spring rear
hanger and the rear should extend past the center-
line of a single rear axle, or past the centerline be-
Frame Reinforcement Guidelines tween tandem rear axles. Both ends of the reinforce-
Reinforcements are often added to the vehicle frame ments (short or long) should be tapered for a
because of wheelbase change (extension), improper smoother transition.
purchase specification by the customer, or change of IMPORTANT: The frame requirements for stress
intended use. If a reinforcement is necessary, bolting and deflection with various axle ratings and
is the preferred method of attachment. Use existing
wheelbases change rapidly as axle loading var-
holes, adding bolts only where required.
ies. If an axle rating is changed for any reason,
the frame must be evaluated for adequacy.

Bumper Air Dam 31.03
Bumper Air Dam Removal and Installation
Air Dam Center Section 7. If either or both end caps must be removed, go
to "Air Dam End Cap: Removal."
REMOVAL INSTALLATION
1. Using an offset screwdriver, remove the Phillips 1. If either or both end caps were removed, install
screw from each end of the top flange. them; refer to "Air Dam End Cap: Installation."
See Fig. 1.
2. For a set-forward-axle vehicle, if a new center
2. Remove the fasteners from the center section’s section is being installed, proceed as follows
lower outer ends, as shown in Fig. 2. (otherwise, go to the next step):
3. Remove the fasteners that attach the rear stiff- 2.1 Install a bolt with an extra-wide flatwasher
ener and the center section’s rear edge to each up through the rear outboard hole at the
vertical strut angle bracket. See Fig. 3. driver’s side of the new center section.
4. For a setback-axle vehicle, remove the fasteners See Fig. 7. Install a second extra-wide
that attach the rear stiffener to the middle of the flatwasher over the bolt, against the top
center section’s rear edge. See Fig. 4. Remove of the center section, as shown in the de-
the rear stiffener. tail.
For a set-forward-axle vehicle, if a new center 2.2 With the undrilled leg of the rear stiffener
section is being installed, remove the fasteners to the rear, pointing up, position one end
that attach the rear stiffener to the middle and to (driver’s side) of the drilled leg over the
the ends of the center section’s rear edge. bolt. Install a locknut, but don’t tighten it.
See Fig. 5. Remove the rear stiffener. 2.3 Repeat the two substeps for the passen-
5. At the upper edge of the license plate recess, ger’s side of the center section.
remove the fasteners that attach the center sec- 3. With the Conventional hood or the COE cab (as
tion to the bumper lower flange. See Fig. 6. applicable) in the operating position, place the
top rear edge of the center section between the
CENTER SECTION outboard grille and the bumper top flange. Pivot the bot-
TOP FLANGE END CAP
tom of the center section down into place.
CL
4. At the upper edge of the license plate recess,
install the fasteners that attach the center section
to the bumper lower flange. See Fig. 8. Install
the (formed) air dam washers with their 90-
degree angle at the back and their 40-degree
angle pointing forward and down, as shown in
the detail. Don’t tighten the bolts.
5. For a set-forward-axle vehicle , hold the horizon-
tal part of the installed rear stiffener against the
bottom of the vertical strut angle brackets.
Front View See Fig. 9. At each angle bracket, install the fas-
(typical) teners, as shown in the detail. Don’t tighten the
Driver’s side shown; bumper is symmetrical.
locknuts. Go to the step after the next.
02/23/93 f310130
For a setback-axle vehicle, hold the drilled leg of
Fig. 1 the rear stiffener against the bottom of both verti-
cal strut angle brackets, so the undrilled leg is to
6. Using the tow pin opening or bumper step open- the rear, pointing up. See Fig. 10. The ends of
ings for handholds, remove the center section by the stiffener must be above the air dam end caps
pivoting the bottom forward, then up, until the (Detail B) or bumper air dam extensions, if in-
vertical tabs at the top can be pulled forward stalled (Detail C). Push the rear edge of the cen-
from behind the grille.

31.03 Bumper Air Dam
outboard
Front View
(typical)
END CAP
CL CENTER SECTION
Remove all three Top View

sets of fasteners. Setback−Axle Conventional
CL
Remove all three

sets of fasteners.
Top View
Setback−Axle COE
CL
Remove only these two

sets of fasteners.
Top View
Set−Forward−Axle Vehicle
02/23/93 f310136
Fig. 2

REAR STIFFENER outboard

REAR STIFFENER
outboard
Top View
CL Top View
CL
VERTICAL Front View

STRUT
VERTICAL STRUT
Front View
ANGLE BRACKET
Driver’s side shown; bumper is symmetrical. Driver’s side shown; bumper is symmetrical.
02/23/93 f310129 02/23/93 f310138
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
ter section up, against the stiffener. Install the IMPORTANT: Tighten each set of air dam fas-
fasteners at the angle brackets, as shown in De- teners until the set of fasteners and all fastened
tail A. Don’t tighten the locknuts. parts between them are just drawn into contact
6. Install a Phillips screw in each end of the top (without any spaces). Then tighten the fasteners
flange. See Fig. 11. Don’t tighten the screws. one additional turn.
7. Move the center section, as needed, to align its 8. Using the instructions in the step above, tighten
centerline with the center of the tow pin opening the Phillips screws at the bumper top flange (
in the bumper. When aligned, tighten the bolts at Fig. 11), and the fasteners at the vertical strut
the license plate recess, as instructed below. angle brackets ( Fig. 9, or Fig. 10, Detail A).
See Fig. 8. 9. If the rear stiffener was removed, install the fas-
teners in the center hole of the rear stiffener.
CAUTION See Fig. 12. Using the instructions in applicable
step above, tighten the locknut.
CAUTION: Overtightening the air dam fasteners
may crack or distort the air dam. Don’t use an air
wrench to tighten any air dam fasteners. Always
use the tightening instructions given in this step.

1
REAR STIFFENER
2
3
4
5
6
1. Self−Locking Nut
2. Rear Stiffener
3. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 3/4" O.D.
4. Air Dam Center Section
AIR DAM 5. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 3/4" O.D.
CENTER SECTION 6. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long
Top View Detail
02/23/93 f310139 (front view of driver’s side)
Fig. 5
REAR STIFFENER
CL outboard
AIR DAM
CENTER SECTION
Top View
LICENSE PLATE RECESS Front View 02/23/93 f310141
(typical)
Fig. 7
02/23/93 f310131
see Fig. 14; for all vehicles except a setback-
Fig. 6 axle Conventional, see Fig. 15.
11. For a setback-axle Conventional, tighten the zee
NOTE: If a new center section is installed, use a
bracket fasteners ( Fig. 14, Ref. 6) 15 lbf·ft (20
25/64-inch drill bit to backdrill down through the N·m).
center hole of the rear stiffener, into the center
section. 12. For a setback-axle Conventional, position the
inboard rear edge of each end cap between the
10. If either end cap was replaced or reinstalled, rear stiffener and the air dam center section.
move it until there is a constant gap of 1/8 to 1/4 See Fig. 16, Detail A. Then, place an extra-wide
inch (3 to 6 mm) between the outboard edge of flatwasher between the rear stiffener and the end
the center section and the forwardmost inboard cap, as shown in the detail. Install the fasteners
edge of the end cap. See Fig. 13. When the gap in each outboard hole of the center section. See
is right, tighten all end-cap mounting ear fasten- Details A and B. Don’t tighten the locknuts. Go to
ers, using the instructions in the applicable step the next step.
above. For a setback-axle Conventional,

stall the bumper air dam extension ( Fig. 18);

1 refer elsewhere in this group for instructions.
2
14. For a setback-axle COE, position the forward
3 edge of each bumper air dam extension above
the rear edge of the end cap. See Fig. 18, Detail
4 B. Position the inboard end of each bumper air
dam extension between the rear stiffener and the
5
air dam center section, then place an extra-wide
flatwasher between the rear stiffener and the air
dam extension. See Detail A. Install the fasteners
1. Weldnut (welded to bumper)
in each outboard hole of the center section; don’t
2. Bumper (bottom flange) tighten the locknuts. See Fig. 18, Details A, B,
3. Air Dam Center Section and C.
4. Air Dam Washer (formed) For a set-forward-axle vehicle, install the fasten-
5. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt,
1" Long
ers in the outboard holes of the center section
and the two inboard holes of each end cap; don’t
Detail tighten the locknuts. See Fig. 19.
(front view)
15. Move the lowest inboard edge of one of the end
CL outboard caps until there is a gap of 1/8- to 1/4-inch (3 to
6 mm) gap between it and the outboard edge of
the center section. See Fig. 13. Using the in-
structions in the applicable step above, tighten all
of the fasteners in that outboard edge of the cen-
ter section. See Fig. 16, Fig. 18, or Fig. 19.
Repeat this step for the other end cap.
Air Dam End Cap

REMOVAL
LICENSE PLATE RECESS
Front View To remove either of the end caps, if needed, proceed
(typical) as follows:
02/23/93
f310133 1. Remove the air dam center section.
Fig. 8 2. For a Conventional, open the hood; for a COE,

tilt the cab. Refer to the driver’s manual for in-
For all vehicles except a setback-axle Conven- structions.
tional, install the fasteners in the air dam support 3. For a setback-axle Conventional, loosen, but
and the bumper backing plate. See Fig. 17, De- don’t remove the zee bracket fasteners.
tail A. Tighten the locknuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m). See Fig. 14, Ref. 6. Remove the fasteners that
13. If a new end cap is installed, attach a new air attach the end cap to the top and bottom flanges
dam support to the bumper backing plate, as of the bumper and bumper end. See Fig. 14,
shown in Detail A. Tighten the locknuts 15 lbf·ft Ref. 1. Remove the end cap.
(20 N·m). Use a 13/64-inch drill bit to drill two For all vehicles except a setback-axle Conven-
holes through the rear outboard flange of the tional, remove the fasteners that attach the air
new end cap, and the outboard end of the new dam support to the bumper backing plate.
air dam support. See Detail B. Install two large- See Fig. 17, Detail A. Remove the fasteners that
flange blind rivets. For a setback-axle COE, in- attach the end cap to the top and bottom flanges

REAR STIFFENER
1
outboard 2
3
4
5
6
7
Top View
CL
1. Vertical Strut
3. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D.
4. Vertical Strut Angle Bracket
5. Rear Stiffener
7. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 1−1/4" O.D.
8. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long
Detail
(front view)
REAR Front View
STIFFENER
VERTICAL STRUT Driver’s side shown; bumper is symmetrical.
02/23/93 ANGLE BRACKET f310137
Fig. 9
of the bumper. See Fig. 15, Ref. 1. Remove the Install the fasteners through the lower inboard
end cap by pulling it outboard. mounting ear and the bottom flange of the
bumper (Detail B); don’t tighten the locknut.
INSTALLATION Install the fasteners through the zee bracket, the
1. Tilt the cab or hood. Refer to the vehicle driver’s lower outboard mounting ears, and the bottom
manual for instructions. flange of the bumper end (Detail E); don’t tighten
the locknuts. Go to the next step.
2. For a setback-axle Conventional position the end
cap on the bumper and bumper end. Be sure its For all vehicles except a setback-axle Conven-
lower outboard mounting ears are between the tional, position the inboard mounting ears of the
top of the zee bracket and the lower flange of end cap on the outboard end of the bumper
the bumper end. See Fig. 20, Detail E. If flanges. Push the end cap inboard until its out-
needed, loosen the zee bracket fasteners (Detail board mounting ears are lined up with the out-
C). board mounting holes in the bumper flanges. In-
stall the fasteners through the mounting ears and
Install the fasteners through the upper mounting the bumper flanges, ( Fig. 21, Details A and B);
ears and the top flange of the bumper (Detail A) don’t tighten the locknuts.
and the bumper end (Detail D); don’t tighten the
locknuts. NOTE: For a setback-axle COE, if a new end
cap is being installed, remove the bumper air
dam extension ( Fig. 22); refer elsewhere in this
group for instructions.

CL
outboard
Front View
(typical)
Front View
1
2
3
4
5 1 1
6
2
2
7
3 3
8
1. Vertical Strut
3. Plated Steel Washer,
11/16" O.D. 1. Rear Stiffener
4. Vertical Strut Angle
1. Rear Stiffener
2. Air Dam End Cap 2. Air Dam Extension
Bracket (setback−axle COE only)
5. Rear Stiffener 3. Air Dam Center Section
7. Extra−Wide Flatwasher,
1−1/4" O.D.
8. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, Detail B Detail C
1" Long (front view) (front view)
Detail A
(front view)
CL CL
AIR DAM
AIR DAM EXTENSION
END CAP
REAR STIFFENER REAR STIFFENER
Top View Top View

Setback−Axle Conventional Setback−Axle COE
Driver’s side shown; bumper is symmetrical. f310149
02/23/93
Fig. 10

1 2
3
2 4
5
3
4 6
1. 5/16−18 Phillips Machine
Screw, 1" Long
3. Bumper (top flange) 1. Self−Locking Nut
4. Weldnut (welded to bumper) 2. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D.
Detail 3. Rear Stiffener
(front view) 4. Air Dam Center Section
5. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 1−1/4" O.D.
outboard 6. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1−1/4" Long
CL
Detail
REAR STIFFENER
Front View
(typical)
02/23/93 f310132
Fig. 11 AIR DAM

CENTER SECTION
Refer to the vehicle driver’s manual for instruc- Top View
02/23/93 (typical) f310140
tions.
4. Install the air dam center section. Fig. 12

1/8 to 1/4"
outboard (3 to 6 mm)
CL
Front View 1/8 to 1/4"

(typical) (3 to 6 mm)
02/23/93 f310135
Fig. 13

outboard
C 1 2 3 1 1
L
1. End−Cap Mounting Ear Fasteners

2. End Cap
3. Bumper Top Flange
4. Bumper End
5. Zee Bracket
1 6 1 5 1 6. Zee Bracket Fasteners
7
7. Bumper Bottom Flange
Front View
(Setback−Axle Conventional)
02/23/93 f310143
Fig. 14
outboard
CL 1 2 3 1
1. End−Cap Mounting
Ear Fasteners
2. End Cap
3. Bumper Top Flange
4. Bumper Bottom Flange
1 4 1
Front View
(Set−Forward−Axle Vehicles and Setback−Axle COE)

02/23/93 f310142
Fig. 15

2 1
3 2
4 3
5 4
5
6
7 6
2. Rear Stiffener
3/4" O.D.
3/4" O.D.
3. Air Dam End Cap
4. Air Dam End Cap
3/4" O.D.
3/4" O.D.
1" Long 1" Long
Detail A Detail B
(front view) (front view)
REAR STIFFENER
CL outboard
END CAP
CENTER
SECTION
Top View
Setback−Axle Conventional
02/23/93 f310144
Fig. 16

CL
END CAP AIR DAM

SUPPORT
Top View
1
1
2
2 3
4 3
5 1. Large−Flange Rivet
6 2. Air Dam End Cap
1. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long 3. Air Dam Support
3. Air Dam Support Detail B
4. Bumper Backing Plate (top view)
Detail A
(top view)
AIR DAM
SUPPORT
BUMPER BACKING
PLATE
END CAP
CL Front View

02/23/93 f310148
Fig. 17

CL REAR STIFFENER
AIR DAM EXTENSION
Top View
END CAP
Driver’s side shown;

bumper is symmetrical.
1 1
1
2 2
2
3 3
3 4
4 4
5
5 5
6 6 6
7 7
1. Self−Locking Nut 1. Self−Locking Nut 2. Extra−Wide Flatwasher,
2. Rear Stiffener 2. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 3/4" O.D. 3/4" O.D.
3. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 3/4" O.D. 3. Air Dam Extension 3. Air Dam End Cap
4. Air Dam Extension 4. Air Dam End Cap 4. Air Dam Center Section
5. Air Dam Center Section 5. Air Dam Center Section 5. Extra−Wide Flatwasher,
6. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 3/4" O.D. 6. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 3/4" O.D. 3/4" O.D.
7. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long 7. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long 6. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt,
1" Long
Detail A Detail B Detail C
(front view) (front view) (front view)
03/15/93 f310146
Fig. 18

CENTER SECTION 1
REAR STIFFENER 2
CL
3
4
5
6
END CAP
3. Air Dam End Cap
6. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long
Top View
Detail
Driver’s side shown; bumper is symmetrical. (front view)
03/15/93 f310147
Fig. 19

outboard BUMPER D
A
D
END CAP ZEE BRACKET E BUMPER
END
D
A
BUMPER END E
B C
END CAP
E
C
BUMPER B
Top View Front View
1 1 2
1 2
3
2 4 3
3 5
4
5 6 4
6 5
6
1. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long 1. Self−Locking Nut 1. Self−Locking Nut

2. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 1−1/4" O.D. 2. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D. 2. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D.
3. Air Dam End Cap Mounting Ear 3. Bumper (bottom flange) 3. Zee Bracket
4. Bumper (top flange) 4. Air Dam End Cap Mounting Ear 4. Bumper (bottom flange)
5. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D. 5. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 1−1/4" O.D. 5. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D.
6. Self−Locking Nut 6. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long 6. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long
Detail A Detail B Detail C
1
2
1 3
4
2
3 5
4 6
5
6 7
1. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1−1/2" Long

2. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 1−1/4" O.D. 1. Self−Locking Nut
3. Air Dam End Cap Mounting Ear 2. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D.
4. Bumper End (top flange) 3. Bumper End (bottom flange)
5. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D. 4. Air Dam End Cap Mounting Ear
6. Self−Locking Nut 5. Zee Bracket
6. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D.
7. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1−1/4" Long
Detail D Detail E
03/15/93 f310145
Fig. 20

END CAP
Top View A A
B B
BUMPER A A
Front View
B B
END CAP
Driver’s side shown.
1
1 2
3
4
2 5
3
4 6
5
6
1. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long 1. Self−Locking Nut
2. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 1−1/4" O.D. 2. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D.
3. Air Dam End Cap Mounting Ear 3. Bumper (bottom flange)
4. Bumper (top flange) 4. Air Dam End Cap Mounting Ear
5. Plated Steel Washer, 11/16" O.D. 5. Extra−Wide Flatwasher, 1−1/4" O.D.
6. Self−Locking Nut 6. 5/16−18 Hexhead Bolt, 1" Long
Detail A Detail B
03/15/93 f310128
Fig. 21

03/15/93 f310150
Fig. 22, Bumper Air Dam Extension

Chassis Side Fairing 31.04
General Description
General Description
Side fairing assemblies (Fig. 1), sized to the cab or
wheelbase, ease air turbulence around the fuel tanks
and provide access to the sleeper and back of the
cab.
Side fairings are fuel-tank and/or frame-rail mounted.
The upper portions of fuel-tank-mounted fairings at-
tach to the fuel tank bracket. The lower mount is at
the tank band step support bracket. All frame-rail-
mounted panels attach to the web area of the rail.
The upper panels on the 120 Conventional are made
of fiberglass, and are painted the color of the cab.
The lower panels on the 120 Conventional and the
entire fairing on the COE are made of ABS material
and are dark gray.
03/15/93 f600175
Fig. 1, Side Fairing Assembly (COE shown)

Panel Removal and Installation
Panel Removal 2. Remove the attaching bolts and the load-bearing

washers (if equipped) holding the panel to the
fairing bracket. See Fig. 5.
120 CONVENTIONAL
3. On standard vehicles, the mudflaps are attached
The fairing section consists of an upper and lower to the front and the rear panels. Remove the two
panel. Each set of panels is removed as a unit. bolts attaching the rear mudflap to the support
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. bracket. See Fig. 6. Tilt the cab to remove the
front mudflap attaching bolts. Remove the fairing
2. Remove the attaching bolts holding the lower panels with the mudflap attached.
panel to the fairing bracket. See Fig. 1. Remove
the upper panel attaching bolts. 4. On vehicles with tube-style mounted mudflaps (
1 3 1 1 1
A
4 4
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1 1
B
4 4
C D E
02/04/94 f600176a
NOTE: Center panel size is determined by the vehicle’s wheelbase.
A. Upper Panels C. Front Panel E. Rear Panel
B. Lower Panels D. Center Panel
1. Attaching Bolts 3. Fuel Fill Door 4. Fairing Bracket
2. Panel Assembly Bolts
Fig. 1, 120 Conventional Chassis Side Fairing Assembly

3. The mudflaps are attached to the rear panels. Fig. 7), lift the fairing panel off the bracket after
Remove the two bolts attaching the rear mudflap removing the attaching bolts. The mudflaps are
to the support bracket. See Fig. 2. Tilt the hood independently attached to the frame and are not
to remove the fastener attaching the front panel. connected to the fairing.
See Fig. 3. Remove the fairing panels. The rear
panel is removed with the mudflap attached. Panel Installation
4. Lift the upper and lower panels as a unit off the
brackets. See Fig. 4. If necessary, remove the 1. On 120 Conventionals, install the bolts to con-
bolts connecting the upper and lower panels, nect the upper and lower fairing panels together,
then separate the panels. if panels are separated.
2. On COEs and 120 Conventionals, place the
COE panel in position on the mounting brackets.
Each panel may be removed separately.
NOTE: On FLDs equipped with side fairings, the
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. fuel tank filler neck does not have to be cen-

31.04 Chassis Side Fairing
02/04/94 f600177a
1. Attaching Bolt
02/04/94 f600179a
Fig. 2, Rear Mudflap Connection (120 Conventional
Setback Axle) Fig. 4, Fairing Removed from the Vehicle
If you do need to move the fuel tank, refer to
the fuel group in the vehicle service manual for
instructions.
3. If applicable, install the attaching bolts to secure
the mudflaps to the support bracket.
4. Install the attaching bolts and the load-bearing
washers (if equipped), and tighten the screws 15
lbf·ft (20 N·m).
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not overtighten the attaching
bolts. This could cause the fairing to crack.
5. Remove the chocks from the tires, and release
the parking brakes.
02/04/94 f600178a
Fig. 3, Front Mudflap Connection (120 Conventional

Setback Axle)
tered in the fill door opening of the side fairing.

The centerline of the fuel tank cap is to be
within 1 inch (25 mm) of either side of the cen-
terline of the fill door opening. See Fig. 8. Don’t
move the fuel tanks to center the fuel tank filler
neck in the fill door opening.

1 1 1 1
1 1
2 2
1 1
2 2
A 3 B C D E
3 3 3
02/04/94 f600180a
NOTE: Forward center panel size is determined by the cab size. Aft center panel size is determined by the vehicle’s
wheelbase.
A. Front Panel C. Side Step Panel E. Rear Panel
B. Forward Center Panel D. Aft Center Panel
1. Attaching Bolts 3. Riveted Retaining Clip and
2. Fairing Bracket Backing Plate
Fig. 5, Axle Forward COE Chassis Side Fairing Assembly
03/16/93 f600182a
Fig. 7, Tube-Style Mounted Mudflap Connection (rear

02/04/94 f600181a
shown)
1. Attaching Bolt
Fig. 6, Standard Mounted Mudflap Connection (rear

shown)

C C 1
11/07/95 f470114
A. Centerline of fill door C. 1 inch (25 mm)
opening D. Fuel cap centerline
B. Centerline of fuel cap to be within this area.
1. Fill Door Opening 2. Fuel Cap
Fig. 8

Chassis Side Fairing Adjustment, FLD Conventional
IMPORTANT: Chassis side fairings installed on

FLD Conventional vehicles are adjustable within
certain limits using specific adjustment proce-
dures. Enhancement of fairing design has been
an ongoing process since introduction in 1987.
Current fairing design and fairing hardware of-
fers the best possible fit. See Fig. 1.
1 3 1 1 1
A
4 4
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1 1
B
4 4
C D E
02/04/94 f600176a
NOTE: Center panel size is determined by the vehicle’s wheelbase.
A. Upper Panels C. Front Panel E. Rear Panel
B. Lower Panels D. Center Panel
1. Attaching Bolts 3. Fuel Fill Door 4. Fairing Bracket
2. Panel Assembly Fasteners
Fig. 1, 120 Conventional Chassis Side Fairing Assembly (left side shown)
Side Fairing Adjustment should be parallel to the support rails within 1/2 inch
(13 mm). Misalignment of the tread beyond this
Requirements range is not possible unless the panel has been
damaged. Do not attempt to align the upper and
Freightliner chassis side fairings are designed to en- lower fairing panels. Their location is fixed by the
hance vehicle appearance in addition to providing a step tread alignment. The gap between panels will
durable installation that requires few if any adjust- vary from no gap to 1/2 inch (13 mm) at the tread
ments over the life of the vehicle. Following are rec- surfaces. Gaps in the panels beyond the treads are
ommended adjustment procedures for FLD vehicles dependent on material variations and are not adjust-
manufactured from March 1993. able.
Adjustment of the chassis side fairings is not typically When adjusting, use only the original number of
required unless the vehicle has been damaged in a specified fasteners. Any additional fasteners will re-
collision. Check the position of the fairings carefully, duce service life and void any warranty.
as described below, before adjusting. Most vehicles
will have fairings adjusted within specifications and
will not require adjustment.
Position Checks
The fairing panels vary in alignment due to material Before checking or adjusting wheel-to-wheel side
variations. The step treads are aligned parallel to the fairings, make sure the cab air suspension is prop-
support rails. The outboard edge of the step treads erly adjusted. Then, check that the hood is properly

adjusted. See the vehicle service manual, Sec- fairing mounting bracket for damage. The steel
tion 60.02 for cab air suspension ride height, and tube strut of this bracket should be perpendicular
Section 88.00 for hood adjustment. to the frame rail web.
To check the position of the side fairings, use the 3. The width of the side fairings is for all practical
following steps: purposes fixed by the mounting brackets. Minor
adjustments may be made to align the fairing
1. On FLD day cabs with cab air suspension, the
support rails when making height and fore-and-
vertical distance from the top step tread to the
aft adjustments.
bottom of the cab side skirt measured below the
cab entry door should be between 8 and 8-1/2 4. If the inspections listed above are within the
inches (203 mm to 216 mm). On FLD day cabs ranges specified, no further adjustment of the
without air suspension and on all vehicles with fairing support system is necessary.
SleeperCabs, this vertical distance is between
7-3/4 and 8-1/4 inches (197 mm to 210 mm).
See Fig. 2, Fig. 3, and Fig. 4.
Fairing Height Adjustment
Check this measurement at the cab skirt where 1. Determine the height change required at the top
the underturned flange of the skirt begins and step tread by using the height ranges specified in
ends. The range listed above gives 1/2-inch (13- the first step under "Position Checks." Maintain a
mm) maximum between the two measurements, written record of these changes.
with the lower numbers being nominal. The toler-
ance range allows the side fairing to be non- 2. Open the hood.
parallel with the bottom edge of the cab and still 3. Remove the side fairing panels.
not require adjustment.
4. Loosen the fairing support rail fasteners. Leave
At the leading outboard edge of the front fairing the rails in place, taking care not to shift the rails
panel, the gap between the hood and the fairing forward or backward. A mark on the aluminum
on FLD 120 vehicles and the quarter fender and support rails with a permanent marker will locate
fairing on FLD 112 vehicles will be 1-1/8 to 1-5/8 the rails at the supports. Avoid scribing the alu-
inches (29 mm to 41 mm) on day cabs with air minum if possible.
suspension. The measurement will be 3/4 inch to
1-1/4 inch (19 mm to 32 mm) on day cabs with- 5. Measure the distance from the ground to the for-
out air suspension and on all vehicles with Slee- ward rail mounting surface (which is the upper
perCabs. mounting surface for the upper support rail). Add
(to raise) or subtract (to lower) the number from
IMPORTANT: Measurements taken on the upper the first step above to determine the finish height
step tread must be taken between the tread ris- measurement. Note this number.
ers, which is the lowest portion of the tread 6. Repeat the previous step at the rear support
component. bracket. As before, write down the finished height
2. The horizontal location of the fairing is checked measurement.
by measuring the distance from the forward un- 7. Loosen the mounting brackets and adjust the
derturned edge of the cab skirt to the forward front and rear brackets to the required finish
edge of the upper step tread. On FLD 112 ve- heights. Adjust the intermediate support to touch
hicles, the forward edge of the cab skirt mates the support rails after the front and rear supports
with the quarter fender. On FLD 120 vehicles, are changed.
the forward edge of the skirt mates with the cowl
side panel. This horizontal distance measured NOTE: The fuel tank support bracket has a
parallel to the skirt edge should be 3-3/4 to 4-1/4 lower adjusting nut that is torqued 94 lbf·in
inches (95 mm to 108 mm) for all the FLD 112 (1062 N·cm) after the upper slots are adjusted.
vehicles. The horizontal distance will be 8-1/2 to The other brackets are slotted in the upper fas-
9 inches (216 mm to 229 mm) for all FLD 120 tener locations where the support bracket is fas-
vehicles. If the measured distance is outside the tened to the angle mounting bracket. Tighten
ranges specified, inspect the forward mudflap-

2 3
02/02/96 f310514
1. Forward End of Fairing 2. Forward End of the Underturned 3. Aft End of the Underturned
Flange of the Skirt Flange of the Skirt
Fig. 2, Panel Alignment Measuring
4
2
2
4
3
1
3
A 5
5
A
1
04/22/96 f310515 04/22/96 f310516

NOTE: Measure between tread risers. NOTE: Measure between tread risers.
A. Measure Here A. Measure Here
1. Straight Edge 4. Cab Side Skirt 1. Straight Edge 4. Cab Side Skirt
2. Ruler 5. Top Step Tread 2. Ruler 5. Top Step Tread
3. Level 3. Level
Fig. 3, Checking Gap at Forward Underturned Flange Fig. 4, Checking Gap at Aft Underturned Flange
these fasteners to the torque specified in Sec- 8. Retighten the support rail fasteners 180 lbf·ft
tion 00.06 of the vehicle service manual. (244 N·cm).

9. At the front mudflap support bracket, move the

upper fairing support, and then measure the dis-
tance from the ground to the horizontal bracket.
Add or subtract the change required and record
the finish height measurement. Loosen the fas-
teners and move the support. Torque the fasten-
ers.
10. Install the fairing side panels by starting at the
front of the vehicle and working aft. The outboard
edge of the step treads is to be parallel to the
support rails within 1/2 inch (13 mm). The gap
between panels is to be from no gap to a 1/2
inch (13 mm) gap.
Fore-and-Aft Adjustment
1. Determine the fore-and-aft change required at
the top step tread using the length ranges previ-
ously specified. Maintain a written record of the
changes.
2. Open the hood.
3. Remove the side fairing panels.
4. Mark the original location of the side rails with a
permanent marker.
5. Loosen the rails, and move them to the required
position.
6. Retighten the rail mounting fasteners using the
torque values listed in the service manual.
7. Install the fairing side panels by starting at the
front of the vehicle and working aft. The outboard
edge of the step treads is to be parallel to the
support rails within 1/2 inch (13 mm). The gap
between the panels is to be from no gap to 1/2
inch (13 mm).

Fifth Wheel, Holland 3500 Series 31.05
General Information
General Information
NOTE: The Holland 3500 series XA–3501
1
model fifth wheel top plate has been replaced
by the XA–351 model. All 3500 series fifth
wheel top plates which are marked with a
manufactured date after June 1, 1996 are XA–
351 models.
NOTE: Service operations for the Holland 3500
series slide mounts (FW2535/FW35) are cov-
ered in Section 31.06 in this group.
MODEL XA–3501 TOP PLATE

06/01/2005 f310424
NOTE: The part number prefix for the stationary
fifth wheel is FW3500 and the part number pre- 1. Kingpin Lock Control Handle
fix for the sliding fifth wheel is FW2535. Fig. 1, XA-3501 Fifth Wheel
Holland 3500 series XA–3501 fifth wheels are used
for pulling trailers having the standard SAE kingpin. MODEL XA–351 TOP PLATE
When installed as stationary fifth wheels, they are NOTE: The part number prefix for the stationary
bracket-mounted to the trailer frame in a position that
fifth wheel and the sliding fifth wheel is FW35.
best distributes the trailer load over the tractor axles.
When installed as sliding fifth wheels, they are The Holland 3500 series XA–351 fifth wheels are
mounted on the Holland 3500 series sliding mount. applicable for general over-the-road use. They are
These fifth wheels have a capacity of 150,000 lbf designed to pull trailers having a 2 inch (5 cm) SAE
(667 000 N) maximum drawbar pull and 40,000 to J700b kingpin. They have a capacity of 150,000 lbf
50,000 lbf (178 000 to 222 000 N) maximum vertical (667 000 N) maximum drawbar pull and 55,000 lbf
load. The fifth wheel ( Fig. 1) has a cast steel top (244 652 N) maximum vertical load. These fifth
plate, and is equipped with a split type "B" mechani- wheels are available in three different mounting as-
cal spring lock. This steel kingpin lock system re- semblies: the Kompensator®; the slide mount; and
quires a 300 lbf (1330 N) push (force) to couple, and the stationary mount.
also includes a slack adjustment and the Holland
The stationary mount fifth wheels are available with
lockguard (which prevents high kingpin coupling).
four different mounting bracket styles, which include:
The two spring-loaded lock halves separate as the • a bracket with a mounting base for over-the-
kingpin enters the lock mechanism. See Fig. 2. The frame mounting;
final forward motion of the kingpin forces the lock to
close in a 360 degree grip around the shoulder and • a bracket with a mounting angle for over-the-
neck of the kingpin, and moves the yoke between frame mounting;
the lock halves and the tapered rib members of the • a bracket for angle mounting (designed to be
fifth wheel understructure. The kingpin can be re- welded to the angle) for over-the-frame mount-
leased only by manually operating the kingpin lock ing;
control handle. See Fig. 1. An adjustment nut com-
pensates for wear on the lock or kingpin, if neces- • and, a bracket for outboard angle mounting.
sary. The mounting brackets use nylon-lined "up-shock"
See Chapter 10 (FLD) or Chapter 10 (FLB) in the bushings. These fifth wheels come in a variety of
vehicle driver’s manual for complete operating in- heights to accommodate many applications.
structions. The sliding fifth wheels are available with either an
over-the-frame mounting bracket or an outboard
angle mounting bracket. These mounting brackets

31.05 Fifth Wheel, Holland 3500 Series
General Information
2 2
A B
1
1
5
3 3
4
10/31/94 f310112a
A. Closed Position—Locked B. Open Position—Unlocked

1. Release Handle and Spring 3. Lock (2 used) 5. Sliding Yoke
2. Adjusting Nut 4. Lock Pivot (2 used)
Fig. 2, Type B Kingpin Lock Mechanism (bottom view)

are either equipped with a manual slide release or an
air slide release mechanism. These sliding mounts 1
have a position adjustment that gives the fifth wheel
top plate the ability to be released, incrementally
moved (by 1.5 inch [3.8 cm] displacements) and
locked in alternate positions. The position adjustment
feature allows the fifth wheel position to vary combi-
nation length and tractor axle load distribution for
4
maximum equipment utilization. The mounting brack- 3
ets use nylon-lined "up-shock" bushings. The sliding 2
fifth wheels are available in a variety of heights and
09/08/97 f310627
slide travel lengths.
1. Urethane Cushions
The Kompensator® fifth wheel is equipped with either 2. Optional Lockout
a stationary or sliding mounting bracket. This fifth 3. Compression Springs
wheel is designed for rigid trailers that don’t flex dur- 4. Kompensator® Cradle Design Mounting Bracket
ing torsional loading. It provides torsional stress relief
and promotes vehicle stability with trailers that have Fig. 3, The Kompensator®Cradle
an unusually high center of gravity (where the center • the release handle;
of gravity is up to 44 inches [111 cm] above the top
plate surface). This fifth wheels unique cradle design • the infinite lock adjustment nut;
provides side-to-side movement to help relieve the • and the kingpin lock mechanism.
torque and twist of the trailer. Spring cushions act as
a restoring force to provide stability after absorbing See Fig. 4.
the strain and pressure of the load. Additionally, it The kingpin lock mechanism consists of:
keeps the center of compensation above the fifth
wheel bearing surface and centered between the • the infinite lock adjustment nut;
frame rails. All models are available with an optional • the secondary lock;
"lock-out" feature to restrict compensation for appli-
cations that do not require compensation. See Fig. 3. • the release handle;
The 3500 series top plate consists of: • the type "B" forged steel split lock;
• the cast steel top plate; • and, the yoke.
• the bracket pin mount; See Fig. 5.

General Information
When the yoke is retracted, the two spring-loaded

1 lock halves separate as the kingpin enters the lock
2
mechanism. When the yoke engages, the final for-
ward motion of the kingpin forces the lock to close in
a 360 degree grip around the shoulder and neck of
the kingpin. After the yoke is engaged (positioned
between the lock halves and the tapered rib mem-
bers of the top plate casting), the secondary lock
3 moves behind the yoke. For fifth wheels with an au-
tomatic secondary lock, the kingpin is released by
5 manually operating the release handle. For fifth
wheels with a manual secondary lock, the fifth wheel
4 is released by pulling the secondary release handle,
08/07/97 f310612
then hooking the secondary release handle to the top
1. Infinite Lock Adjustment Nut
plate casting, and finally manually operating the pri-
2. Kingpin Lock
3. Cast Steel Top Plate mary release handle. For high coupling protection, a
4. Bracket Pin Mount one step rear lock is incorporated into the split lock.
5. Release Handle For increased durability of the kingpin lock mecha-
nism, the infinite lock adjustment positions are avail-
Fig. 4, XA-351 Fifth Wheel able to compensate for wear in both the kingpin and
the lock jaws.
See Chapter 10 (FLD) or Chapter 10 (FLB) in the
1 vehicle driver’s manual for complete operating in-
structions.
4
09/10/97 f310605
1. Infinite Lock Adjustment Nut

2. Secondary Lock (Automatic Shown)
3. Release Handle
4. Kingpin Guide
5. Yoke
Fig. 5, Kingpin Lock Mechanism (bottom view)

Model XA–3501 Top Plate Removal and Disassembly
Removal and Disassembly 3.4 Remove the release arm capscrew, re-
lease arm capscrew washer, and release
(See Fig. 1) arm roller from hole G for models with
right-hand release or from hole F for
models with left-hand release.
WARNING
3.5 Remove the release handle from the fifth
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- wheel top plate. Remove the washer, re-
building must be done only by a qualified me- lease handle spring, and release handle
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could washer from the release handle.
result in loss of trailer connection during vehicle
travel, possibly causing bodily injury and prop- 3.6 Remove the yoke shaft locknut, yoke
erty damage. shaft washer, and rubber block from the
yoke shank. Then, remove the yoke
A fifth wheel rebuild kit is available for servicing the shank and the yoke shank spring from
3500 series XA–3501 fifth wheel (part number RK– the yoke subassembly.
63501 [left release] and RK–63500 [right release]). 3.7 Remove the yoke from the fifth wheel top
The kit contains all replacement parts for the fifth plate.
wheel, except the fifth wheel plate, slide mount as-
sembly, rubber bushings, bushing pins, and roll pins. 3.8 Remove the lock cotter pins, lockpins,
and the lock jaws from the fifth wheel top
Review the troubleshooting section before rebuilding plate.
the fifth wheel. Rebuilding may be unnecessary.
3.9 If the top plate is cracked, discard it. If
1. Steam clean the top plate. Remove it from the the lockpin hole is worn, the top plate can
slide mounts ( Fig. 1) by removing the roll pins be returned for a factory rebuild.
from the bushing pins; then, remove the bushing
pins from the slide mounts. Use an overhead
hoist to lift the fifth wheel from the slide mount WARNING
assembly and tractor frame.
Do not attempt to repair or rebuild the top plate if
2. Turn the fifth wheel upside down with the locks it is cracked or if the lockpin does not fit tightly.
open. The top plate could fail or the locks could mal-
3. While disassembling the fifth wheel, check it for function. This could result in loss of trailer con-
cracks and for missing or damaged parts, as fol- nection during vehicle travel, possibly causing
lows: bodily injury and property damage.
3.1 Remove the lockguard, the lockguard tor-

sion spring, the lockguard pin, and the
lockguard cotter pins.
3.2 On fifth wheels with a right-hand release,
remove the secondary lock roll pin from
hole F. Then, remove the right-hand sec-
ondary lock from under hole F.
On fifth wheels with a left-hand release,
remove the secondary lock roll pin from
hole G. Then, remove the left-hand sec-
ondary lock with the secondary lock
spring from under hole G.
3.3 Remove the attaching release arm cap-
screw, capscrew washer, and roller from
hole A of the release arm and yoke sub-
assembly.

1 37
11 36 45
2 5 12
13 38
3 6 14 40
34 44
7 15 39
B
8 K
33 A 17 16
C M
32 4 9
35 10 37 46
E F 36
D G 41
47
43
42
31 H 48
18 L
30 19
N
29 49
28
27 26
20 50
22 51
25
23 25 21
J O
24 23
05/11/95 f310316a
A. Release Arm Cam Profile F. Right-Hand Secondary Lock J. Lockpin Holes
B. Release Arm Pivot Hole Anchor Hole K. For Right-Hand Release
C. Hole for Attachment of Release G. Left-Hand Secondary Lock L. For Left-Hand Release
Handle Anchor Hole M. For Models With Secondary Lock
D. Guide Hole for Right-Hand H. Hole for Right-Hand Manual N. For Models With Lockpin
Release Secondary Lock Handle Bushings
E. Hole for Left-Hand Manual I. Guide Hole for Left-Hand O. Accessories
Secondary Lock Handle Release
1. Capscrew, 5/8–18 x 1-3/4 18. Grease Fitting 35. Grease Fitting
2. Flatwasher, 5/8" i.d. 19. Mounting Bracket 36. Secondary Lock Torsion Spring
3. Roller 20. Roll Pin 37. Roll Pin
4. Washer, 5/8" i.d. 21. Bracket Pin 38. Right-Hand Secondary Lock
5. Capscrew, 1/2–20 22. Rubber Bushing 39. Right-Hand Release Handle
6. Washer, 1-3/4" o.d. x 9/16" i.d. 23. Cotter Pins, 1/4" x 2" 40. Washer, 1-3/4" o.d. x 9/16" i.d.
7. Roller 24. Lockpins 41. Left-Hand Secondary Lock
8. Release Arm (Cam Plate) 25. Lock Jaws 42. Left-Hand Release Handle
9. Washer, 1-3/4" o.d. x 13/16" i.d. 26. Fifth Wheel Top Plate 43. Washer, 1-3/4" o.d. x 9/16" i.d.
10. Locknut, 1/2–20 27. Lockguard Pin 44. Manual Secondary Lock Handle
11. Locknut, 3/4–16 28. Lockguard Torsion Spring 45. Manual Secondary Lock
12. Washer, 1-1/2" o.d. x 13/16" i.d. 29. Lockguard 46. Lockpin Bushings, 2
13. Rubber Block 30. Cotter Pins, 1/8" x 1" 47. Lockpin Bushing, 2
14. Lock Adjustment Tag 31. Rubber Bushing 48. Roll Pin, 2
15. Yoke Shank 32. Bracket Pin 49. Kingpin Gauge
16. Yoke Shank Spring 33. Roll Pin 50. Plug, 2"
17. Yoke Subassembly 34. Mounting Bracket 51. Kingpin Lock Tester
Fig. 1, Holland 3500 Series XA-3501 Fifth Wheel and Accessories (bottom view)

Model XA–3501 Top Plate Assembly and Installation
Assembly and Installation Failure to do so may cause locking mechanism

malfunction. This could result in loss of trailer
connection during vehicle travel, possibly caus-
WARNING ing bodily injury and property damage.
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- 7. Install a 2-inch (5.08 cm) diameter plug (Holland
building must be done only by a qualified me- part number TF–0237) in the lock jaws. See
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could Fig. 4.
result in loss of trailer connection during vehicle 8. Strike the yoke with a mallet to bend the yoke
travel, possibly causing bodily injury and prop- tips outward slightly. See Fig. 5.
erty damage.
9. Slide the yoke into the top plate with the
A fifth wheel rebuild kit is available for servicing the threaded hole facing up, and tap the yoke into
3500 series XA–3501 fifth wheel (part numbers RK– position.
63501 [left release] and RK–63500 [right release]).
The kit contains all replacement parts for the fifth WARNING
wheel, except the fifth wheel plate, slide mount as-
sembly, rubber bushings, bushing pins, and roll pins. Never grind on the inside of the yoke or on the
Review the troubleshooting section before rebuilding locks. This can weaken the yoke structure, possi-
the fifth wheel. Rebuilding may be unnecessary. bly causing the kingpin to fit loosely. This could
IMPORTANT: Use only Holland rebuilding kits. travel, possibly causing bodily injury and prop-
Replace all roll pins, cotter pins, springs, cap- erty damage.
screws, nuts, and washers. 10. Inspect the yoke tips. The tips must be flush with
the ends of the locks, or extend no more than
1. Clean all moving parts with no. 2 diesel fuel be-
1/32 inch (0.8 mm) beyond. See Fig. 6.
fore assembly.
10.1 If the yoke tips fall short ( Fig. 7), use a
2. Before installing the lock jaws ( Fig. 1), lubricate
belt sander or disk grinder to grind the
the lockpin holes (Ref. J) with Never-Seez®.
outside surfaces of the yoke until it fits
precisely into place. See Fig. 8.
CAUTION 10.2 If the yoke tips extend beyond the ends
Use only Never-Seez®. Other lubricants can dam- of the locks, build up the outer surfaces
age the lockpin holes. of the yoke using a low hydrogen E70XX
welding rod. See Fig. 9. After welding,
3. Place the lock jaws in the top plate with the 2-7/8 grind the beads smooth.
inch bore toward the face of the top plate. See
Fig. 2. 11. The outside of each yoke tip has two contact ar-
eas. Check that all four surfaces have full area
4. Drive the lockpins ( Fig. 1) through the top plate contact with the top plate ribs ( Fig. 10) after
and lockpin holes (Ref. J) in the lock jaws until welding and grinding.
the head of the pins are flush with the top plate.
12. Continue welding, grinding, and fitting until the
5. If the top plate is equipped with lockpin bushings, yoke has full contact and the yoke tips are flush
use roll pins instead of cotter pins. See Fig. 3. with the ends of the locks.
6. Check that the lock jaws move freely. 13. Apply a coat of light grease to both the inside
and outside friction surfaces of the yoke, then
WARNING slide the yoke into the top plate with the
threaded hole facing up.
Use only Holland part number TF–0237 or a pre-
cision plug machined to 2.000 ± 0.005 inch (5.08 14. Install the spring ( Fig. 1) between the yoke and
± 0.0127 cm) to adjust the locking mechanism. the top plate. Insert the yoke shank through the
top plate and spring, then into the yoke. Make

1 37
11 36 45
2 5 12
13 38
3 6 14 40
34 44
7 15 39
B
8 K
33 A 17 16
C M
32 4 9
35 10 37 46
E F 36
D G 41
47
43
42
31 H 48
18 L
30 19
N
29 49
28
27 26
20 50
22 51
25
23 25 21
J O
24 23
05/11/95 f310316a
A. Release Arm Cam Profile F. Right-Hand Secondary Lock J. Lockpin Holes
B. Release Arm Pivot Hole Anchor Hole K. For Right-Hand Release
C. Hole for Attachment of Release G. Left-Hand Secondary Lock L. For Left-Hand Release
Handle Anchor Hole M. For Models With Secondary Lock
D. Guide Hole for Right-Hand H. Hole for Right-Hand Manual N. For Models With Lockpin
Release Secondary Lock Handle Bushings
E. Hole for Left-Hand Manual I. Guide Hole for Left-Hand O. Accessories
Secondary Lock Handle Release
1. Capscrew, 5/8–18 x 1-3/4 18. Grease Fitting 35. Grease Fitting
2. Flatwasher, 5/8" i.d. 19. Mounting Bracket 36. Secondary Lock Torsion Spring
3. Roller 20. Roll Pin 37. Roll Pin
4. Washer, 5/8" i.d. 21. Bracket Pin 38. Right-Hand Secondary Lock
5. Capscrew, 1/2–20 22. Rubber Bushing 39. Right-Hand Release Handle
6. Washer, 1-3/4" o.d. x 9/16" i.d. 23. Cotter Pins, 1/4" x 2" 40. Washer, 1-3/4" o.d. x 9/16" i.d.
7. Roller 24. Lockpins 41. Left-Hand Secondary Lock
8. Release Arm (Cam Plate) 25. Lock Jaws 42. Left-Hand Release Handle
9. Washer, 1-3/4" o.d. x 13/16" i.d. 26. Fifth Wheel Top Plate 43. Washer, 1-3/4" o.d. x 9/16" i.d.
10. Locknut, 1/2–20 27. Lockguard Pin 44. Manual Secondary Lock Handle
11. Locknut, 3/4–16 28. Lockguard Torsion Spring 45. Manual Secondary Lock
12. Washer, 1-1/2" o.d. x 13/16" i.d. 29. Lockguard 46. Lockpin Bushings, 2
13. Rubber Block 30. Cotter Pins, 1/8" x 1" 47. Lockpin Bushing, 2
14. Lock Adjustment Tag 31. Rubber Bushing 48. Roll Pin, 2
15. Yoke Shank 32. Bracket Pin 49. Kingpin Gauge
16. Yoke Shank Spring 33. Roll Pin 50. Plug, 2"
17. Yoke Subassembly 34. Mounting Bracket 51. Kingpin Lock Tester

08/08/94 f310317a 08/08/94 f310320a
Fig. 2, Place the Lock Jaws Fig. 5, Strike the Yoke
08/08/94 f310318a 08/08/94 f310321a
Fig. 3, Roll Pins Used Fig. 6, Inspect the Tips
08/08/94 f310319a 08/08/94 f310322a
Fig. 4, Plug in the Lock Jaws Fig. 7, Yoke Tips Fall Short

08/08/94 f310323a 08/08/94 f310325a

1. Yoke
Fig. 10, Contact with Top Plate
Fig. 8, Grind the Yoke
19. Apply a light coat of grease to the cam profile
and pivot holes.
20. Insert the "S" end of the release handle through
the small hole in the release arm (cam plate).
21. Place the release arm (cam plate) on the top
plate so that the cam profile ( Fig. 11, Ref. A) is
over the hole in the yoke and the large hole (Ref.
B) is over the lug in the top plate opposite the
release handle.
08/08/94 f310324a
Fig. 9, Build Up the Yoke

sure that the predrilled recess in the yoke shank A
aligns with the threaded hole in the yoke.
15. Install the lock adjustment tag, the rubber block,
a 13/16-inch i.d. steel washer, and the 3/4-inch
locknut in the order stated.
16. Install the 9/16-inch i.d. washer on the release 08/08/94 f310326a
handle as shown in Fig. 1.
Fig. 11, Place the Release Arm
17. Pass the open end of the release handle through
the guide hole (Ref. D for models with right-hand 22. Slide a 9/16-inch i.d. flatwasher between the
release, Ref. I for models with left-hand release) plate lug and the release arm with the rounded
toward the outside of the top plate. edge towards the cam. See Fig. 12.
18. Inspect the release arm (cam plate) for burrs or 23. Install the 1/2-inch i.d. roller ( Fig. 1) in the large
rough edges in the cam profile (Ref. A). Remove hole of the release arm.
any burrs or rough edges.

34.2 Install the torsion spring on the secondary

lock, and position them on the lug. Be
sure the open end of the spring faces to-
ward the rib of the lug. See Fig. 13.
08/08/94 f310172a
Fig. 12, Rounded Edge

24. Place a second 9/16-inch i.d. flatwasher over the
release arm. Make sure the rounded edge of the
washer faces the cam.
25. Install the 1/2-inch diameter capscrew through
the washers, roller, and hole in the top plate lug
(Ref. G for right-hand release models, Ref. F for
left-hand release models).
08/08/94 f310327a
26. Secure the capscrew with a 1/2-inch locknut.
Tighten the locknut; then, check that the release Fig. 13, Torsion Spring Installation
arm moves freely.
34.3 While holding the parts in place, drive the
27. Place a 5/8-inch i.d. washer between the yoke roll pin until it is flush with the lug.
and the release arm. Make sure that the rounded
edge of the washer faces the release arm. 34.4 Check the spring tension on the second-
ary lock. Check that the lock moves
28. Insert the 5/8-inch i.d. roller in the release arm freely.
opening.
35. On models with a manual secondary lock assem-
29. Install the second 5/8-inch i.d. washer on top of bly, proceed as follows:
the release arm.
35.1 Pass the end of the manual secondary
30. Pass the 5/8-inch diameter capscrew through the lock handle ( Fig. 1) through the hole
assembly. Be certain that the bolt passes (Ref. E for right-hand release, Ref. H for
through the yoke and into the recess in the yoke left-hand release).
shank.
35.2 Attach the handle to the secondary lock.
31. Tighten the capscrew securely, but make sure
the top washer turns freely. 35.3 Start the roll pin into the hole in the top
plate lug opposite the release arm anchor
32. Turn the nut on the yoke shank clockwise until capscrew.
the yoke just begins to move.
35.4 Install the torsion spring on the secondary
33. Check the plug (Holland part number TF–0237). lock, and place them in position on the
It should fit snugly in the locks, but you should lug. Be sure the open end of the spring
be able to turn it with some force. faces toward the rib of the lug. See
Fig. 13.
34. On models with an automatic secondary lock as-
sembly, proceed as follows: 35.5 While holding the parts in place, drive the
roll pin until it is flush with the lug.
34.1 Start the roll pin into the hole in the top
plate lug opposite the release arm anchor 35.6 Check the spring tension on the second-
capscrew. ary lock. Check that the lock moves
freely.

36. Pull the release handle, remove the plug, and placed between the locks and the lock-guard.
pry open the lock jaws. Tap the center of the guard to adjust it. See
Fig. 16.
37. Assemble the lockguard and the torsion spring.
38. Mount the lockguard using the lockguard pin and
cotter pins. See Fig. 14.
08/08/94 f310330a
Fig. 16, Adjust the Guard

08/08/94 f310328a
42. Using a Holland Lock Tester, close the locks. For
Fig. 14, Mount the Lockguard instructions, refer to Holland Publication FW 130.
Make sure that the locking mechanism functions
39. Check the spring tension on the lockguard. properly. See Fig. 17. If the fifth wheel does not
Check that the lockguard moves freely. operate properly, repeat the above procedures or
contact your local Holland representative for as-
40. Check the adjustment. The tip of the guard sistance.
should be even with the edge of the 2-inch bore
in the lock jaw. See Fig. 15.
08/08/94 f310331a
08/08/94 f310329a Fig. 17, Using the Lock Tester

Fig. 15, Check the Guard IMPORTANT: The fifth wheel must be well lubri-
cated to operate correctly. See Group 31 of the
41. Adjust the lockguard position by supporting the
end of the guard with a short piece of steel Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual, for
complete maintenance and lubrication instruc-
tions of the fifth wheel assembly.

WARNING
If the fifth wheel does not operate properly, do
not use it. The fifth wheel could malfunction, re-
sulting in bodily injury or property damage due
to possible separation of the trailer from the trac-
tor.
43. Using an overhead hoist, position the fifth wheel
on the sliding mount assembly. Insert the bush-
ing pins. Then install the roll pins.

2.3 Using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth

WARNING wheel from the bracket assembly and
tractor frame.
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re-
building must be done only by a qualified me- 3. Disassemble the secondary lock.
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could 3.1 Turn the fifth wheel upside down with the
result in loss of trailer connection during vehicle locks open.
travel, possibly causing bodily injury and prop-
erty damage. 3.2 Using a suitable driver and hammer, drive
the 1/2-inch by 2-3/4 inch roll pin from the
Fifth wheel rebuild kits are available for servicing the top plate and the secondary lock. See
3500 series XA–351 fifth wheels. For the rebuild kits, Fig. 3.
the part numbers include:
3.3 If the fifth wheel has an automatic sec-
• RK–351AL (left release with automatic second- ondary lock, proceed to the next substep,
ary lock); otherwise, remove the manual secondary
• RK–351A02L (left release with manual second- release handle by passing the "S" bend
ary lock); of the release handle through the large
hole in the secondary lock and then
• RK–351A (right release with automatic second-
through the guide hole. See Fig. 4.
ary lock);
• RK–351A02 (right release with manual sec- 3.4 Remove the secondary lock.
ondary lock). 4. Disassemble the cam plate.
These fifth wheel rebuild kits contain all the replace- 4.1 Loosen and remove the 5/8-inch cap-
ment parts, except: the fifth wheel top plate; the screw from the threaded hole in the yoke.
bracket assembly rubber bushings; the bracket as- Remove the washers, and the roller from
sembly bushing pins; and the bracket assembly the cam plate. See Fig. 5.
bushing pin capscrews and locknuts.
4.2 Loosen and remove the 1/2-inch cap-
Rebuilding the fifth wheel may be unnecessary. Re- screw and nut from the top plate lug. Re-
view the troubleshooting section before rebuilding the move the washers, and the roller from the
fifth wheel. If the troubleshooting section does not cam plate. See Fig. 6.
correct the problem, then the fifth wheel may need
4.3 Remove the release handle by passing
rebuilding.
the "S" bend of the release handle
While disassembling the fifth wheel, Check it for through the large hole in the raised tab of
cracks and for missing or damaged parts. Discard all the cam plate and through the top plate
used components. casting hole. See Fig. 6.
5. Disassemble the yoke.
Removal and Disassembly 5.1 Slide the yoke shaft assembly away from
(See Fig. 1) the yoke, through the compression spring,
and out of the top plate casting. See
1. Steam clean the top plate. Fig. 7.
2. Remove the top plate from the bracket assembly. 5.2 Remove the compression spring and re-
move the yoke.
2.1 Loosen and remove the 1/2–20 bushing
pin capscrews and locknuts from the top 6. Disassemble the lock.
plate. 6.1 Remove the cotter pins from the lockpins.
2.2 Remove the bushing pins from the 6.2 Using a suitable driver and hammer, drive
bracket assembly. See Fig. 2. the lockpins out of the casting. See

1
41
40 A
9
2 10
39
3 6
38 4
37
12 11
36 5 7
8
3 7 13
35 34 12
33
23 B
14
27
32
15
26 22
25 24
27
16
31
D C
17
21
18
30 20 19
28
07/25/97 29 28 f310593
A. Bushing Pin Assembly C. Fifth Wheel Accessories
B. Manual Secondary Lock D. Right Hand Secondary Lock
Assembly Assembly
1. Locknut, 3/4–16 14. Manual Secondary Lock Release 28. Cotter Pin, 1/4 x 2
2. Capscrew, 1/2–20 x 1–3/4) Handle 29. Lockpin
3. Washer, 1–3/4" o.d. x 9/16" i.d. 15. Manual Secondary Lock 30. Lock Jaw Set
4. Roller, 1/2" i.d. 16. Torsion Spring 31. Extension Spring
5. Cam Plate (left-hand) 17. Kingpin Gauge 32. Operation Tag
6. Capscrew, 5/8–18 x 3/4 18. 2" Lock Gauge (Plug) 33. Secondary Lock (left-hand)
7. Washer, 2–5/8 x 21/32 19. Kingpin Lock Tester 34. Roll Pin, 1/2 x 2–3/4
8. Roller, 5/8" i.d. 20. Cam Plate (right-hand) 35. Torsion Spring
9. Rubber Bushing (brackets 21. Secondary Lock (right-hand) 36. Yoke
manufactured prior to 5/82) 22. Release Handle 37. Compression Spring
10. Bracket Bushing Pin 23. Cotter Pin, 1/8 x 1–1/4 38. Yoke Shaft
11. Capscrew, 1/2–20 x 1–1/4 24. Washer, 1–3/8" o.d. x 9/16" i.d. 39. Lock Adjustment Tag
12. Locknut, 1/2–20 25. Compression Spring 40. Rubber Washer
13. Rubber Bushing (brackets 26. Washer, 1–1/16" o.d. x 5/8" i.d. 41. Washer 1–1/2" o.d. x 13/16" i.d.
manufactured after 5/82) 27. Grease Zerk

2
3
4
4
08/06/97 f310606
3 2 1. Top Plate
08/04/97 f310601 2. Guide Hole
1. Capscrew 3. Release Handle
2. Bushing Pin 4. Secondary Lock
3. Locknut Fig. 4, Remove the Release Handle
4. Top Plate
Fig. 2, Remove the Bushing Pin

2
1 4
3
5
2 3
08/05/97 f310602
1. Top Plate 08/05/97 f310603
2. Secondary Lock 1. Cam Plate
3. Roll Pin 2. Capscrew, 5/8–20
3. Washer
Fig. 3, Disassemble the Secondary Lock 4. Roller
5. Threaded Hole In Yoke
Fig. 8. This will free the lock jaws assem-
bly. Remove the lock jaws and lock Fig. 5, Remove the Capscrew From the Yoke
spring.

1
2
3
5 1
4
7 2
6
08/05/97 f310604
2
1. Capscrew, 1/2–20 3
2. Washer
3. Roller
4. Cam Plate
5. Release Handle
6. Nut, 1/2–20
7. Top Plate Lug
8. Raised Tab
Fig. 6, Disassemble the Cam Plate
WARNING 08/04/97 f310600
Do not attempt to repair or rebuild the top plate if 1. Yoke Shaft Assembly
2. Compression Spring
it is cracked or if the lockpin does not fit tightly. 3. Yoke
The top plate could fail or the locks could mal-
function. This could result in loss of trailer con- Fig. 7, Remove the Yoke Shaft Assembly
nection during vehicle travel, possibly causing
bodily injury and property damage.
08/06/97 f310608
1. Cotter Pin
2. Lockpin
Fig. 8, Remove the Lockpins

WARNING Assembly and Installation

(See Fig. 1)
building must be done only by a qualified me-
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could WARNING
travel, possibly causing bodily injury and prop- Do not attempt to repair or rebuild the top plate if
erty damage. it is cracked or distorted or if the lockpin does
not fit tightly. The top plate could fail or the locks
Fifth wheel rebuild kits are available for servicing the could malfunction. This could result in loss of
3500 series XA–351 fifth wheels. For the rebuild kits, trailer connection during vehicle travel, possibly
the part numbers include: causing bodily injury and property damage.
• RK–351AL (left release with automatic second-
1. Inspect the top plate.
ary lock);
1.1 If necessary, turn the fifth wheel upside
• RK–351A (right release with automatic second-
down.
ary lock);
• RK–351A02L (left release with manual second- 1.2 Inspect the front lock surface for burrs or
ary lock); cracks. See Fig. 2. The front lock surface
must be free of any burrs or cracks.
• RK–351A02 (right release with manual sec-
ondary lock). 2. Install the lock.
These fifth wheel rebuild kits contain all the replace- 2.1 Lubricate the lockpin holes of the lock
ment parts, except: the fifth wheel top plate; the jaws with Never-Seez (provided in the
bracket assembly rubber bushings; the bracket as- kit). See Fig. 3.
sembly bushing pins; and the bracket assembly
bushing pin capscrews and locknuts. CAUTION
Review the troubleshooting section before rebuilding Use only Never-Seez. Other lubricants can dam-
the fifth wheel. Rebuilding may be unnecessary. age the lockpin holes.
IMPORTANT: Use only Holland rebuilding kits. 2.2 Align the lock jaws in the casting and po-
Replace all roll pins, springs, capscrews, nuts, sition the lock jaws so that the raised
and washers that are included in the kit. Do not edge of the kingpin guides are facing up.
reuse all parts. See Fig. 4.
2.3 Align the holes in the lockpins so that the
WARNING cotter pins can be inserted. Insert the
lockpins into the casting and through the
Use only genuine Holland parts and do not lock jaws. Using a suitable hammer, drive
modify, change or add to the product. Any alter- the lockpins into the casting until the
ations to the fifth wheel assembly could compro- heads are flush with the casting. See
mise its performance. This could result in the Fig. 5.
loss of the trailer connection during vehicle
travel, possibly causing bodily injury and prop- 2.4 Insert the cotter pins and spread.
erty damage. 2.5 Check that the lock jaws move freely.
WARNING
You must use a Holland lock gauge (TF–0237) or
a precision plug that is 2.000 ± 0.005 inch (5.08 ±
0.0127 cm) for proper installation of the locking

1
41
40 A
9
2 10
39
3 6
38 4
37
12 11
36 5 7
8
3 7 13
35 34 12
33
23 B
14
27
32
15
26 22
25 24
27
16
31
D C
17
21
18
30 20 19
28
07/25/97 29 28 f310593
A. Bushing Pin Assembly C. Fifth Wheel Accessories
B. Manual Secondary Lock D. Right Hand Secondary Lock
Assembly Assembly
1. Locknut, 3/4–16 14. Manual Secondary Lock Release 28. Cotter Pin, 1/4 x 2
2. Capscrew, 1/2–20 x 1–3/4 Handle 29. Lockpin
3. Washer, 1–3/4" o.d. x 9/16" i.d. 15. Manual Secondary Lock 30. Lock Jaw Set
4. Roller, 1/2" i.d. 16. Torsion Spring 31. Extension Spring
5. Cam Plate (left-hand) 17. Kingpin Gauge 32. Operation Tag
6. Capscrew, 5/8–18 x 3/4 18. 2" Lock Gauge (Plug) 33. Secondary Lock (left-hand)
7. Washer, 2–5/8 x 21/32 19. Kingpin Lock Tester 34. Roll Pin, 1/2 x 2–3/4
8. Roller, 5/8" i.d. 20. Cam Plate (right-hand) 35. Torsion Spring
9. Rubber Bushing (brackets 21. Secondary Lock (right-hand) 36. Yoke
manufactured prior to 5/82) 22. Release Handle 37. Compression Spring
10. Bracket Bushing Pin 23. Cotter Pin, 1/8 x 1–1/4 38. Yoke Shaft
11. Capscrew, 1/2–20 x 1–1/4 24. Washer, 1–3/8" o.d. x 9/16" i.d. 39. Lock Adjustment Tag
12. Locknut, 1/2–20 25. Compression Spring 40. Rubber Washer
13. Rubber Bushing (brackets 26. Washer, 1–1/16" o.d. x 5/8" i.d. 41. Washer, 1–1/2" o.d. x 13/16" i.d.
manufactured after 5/82) 27. Grease Zerk

1 2
08/01/97 f310598 08/01/97 f310597
1. Kingpin Guide
Fig. 2, Front Lock Surface Inspection 2. Lock Jaw
Fig. 4, Align the Lock Jaws
2
3
2
07/25/97 f310594
1. Lockpin Hole
08/06/97 f310609
2. Lock Jaw
1. Cotter Pin, 1/4 x 2
Fig. 3, Lubricate the Lockpin Holes 2. Top Plate Casting
3. Lockpin
mechanism. If the proper plug is not used, the
lock could malfunction or fail. This could result Fig. 5, Install the Lockpins
in the loss of the trailer connection during ve-
hicle travel, possibly causing personal injury and hole facing up, slide the yoke into the
property damage. casting and seat it around the locks. See
Fig. 7.
2.6 Position a 2-inch (5.08 cm) diameter
"plug" into the lock jaws. See Fig. 6. A 3.2 Inspect the amount of yoke tip engage-
lock gauge, Holland part number TF– ment. Yoke tips must extend flush with
0237 is available at a Holland distributor. the end of the locks and no more then
1/2 inch (12.7 mm) past the locks. See
3. Install the yoke. Fig. 8. If the new yoke extends more than
3.1 Lubricate the surface area of the yoke 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) past the locks, do not
tips with light grease. With the threaded use it. Discard it and order part number

08/01/97 f310599
1. Lock Gauge (Plug) 1
Fig. 6, Install the Lock Gauge
1 A
08/06/97 f310611
2 A. Measurement: 1/2" (12.7 mm) Maximum
1. Yoke Tip
Fig. 8, Measure the Yoke Tip Engagement
08/06/97 f310610
1. Threaded hole
2. Yoke
3. Yoke Tips 08/13/97 f310623
4. Lock
1. Lock Spring
Fig. 7, Install the Yoke
Fig. 9, Install the Lock Spring
XA–07295–THK from your nearest Hol-
cessed hole in the yoke shaft with the
land distributor.
threaded hole in the yoke. See Fig. 10.
3.3 Install the lock spring. See Fig. 9.
3.5 In this order, slide the lock adjustment
3.4 Install the yoke spring. Slide the yoke tag, rubber washer, and 1-1/2 inch
shaft into the casting, through the yoke
spring and into the yoke. Align the re-

1
2
1 2
3
4
5
6 5 4 3
08/06/97 f310607
1. Release Handle
2. Casting Hole
3. Washer, 1–3/8" o.d. x 9/16" i.d.
4. Compression Spring
6 5. Washer, 1–1/16" o.d. x 5/8" i.d.
6. Cotter Pin, 1/8 x 1–1/4
Fig. 11, Install the Release Handle

4.4 Insert the cotter pin; spread it and wrap it
completely around the release handle.
See Fig. 11.
5. Install the cam plate.
5.1 Inspect the cam plate for burrs and re-
08/13/97 f310622
move as required.
1. Locknut, 3/4–16
2. Washer, 1–1/2" o.d. x 13/16" i.d. 5.2 Lubricate the cam plate track and pivot
3. Rubber Washer hole with light grease. Then connect the
4. Lock Adjustment Tag raised tab in the cam plate to the "S"
5. Yoke Shaft bend in the release handle. See Fig. 12.
6. Yoke Spring
Fig. 10, Install and Assemble the Yoke Shaft 1
washer onto the yoke shaft. Then, start

the locknut and turn it finger tight. See 2
Fig. 10
4. Install the release handle.
4.1 Slide the release handle through the hole 3
in the casting (on the left side for left re-
08/08/97 f310613
lease or on the right side for right re-
lease). See Fig. 11. 1. Cam Plate Raised Tab
2. Release Handle
4.2 In this order, slide the 1-3/4 inch washer, 3. Cam Plate Track
compression spring, and 1-1/16 inch
washer over the "S" bend of the release Fig. 12, Lubricate the Cam Plate
handle. 5.3 Position the cam plate attachment hole
4.3 Compress the spring using the 1-1/16 over the proper casting lug hole. Then,
inch washer until the cotter pin hole is slide the 1-3/4 inch washer between the
exposed. cam plate and casting lug hole with the
rounded side of the washer facing the
cam plate. Then install the 1/2-inch roller

into the cam plate and place the second inch o.d. washer over the roller with the
1-3/4 inch washer on top of the roller with rounded side of the washer facing the
the rounded side facing the cam plate. cam plate. See Fig. 14.
See Fig. 13.
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
5
8
2
7 2
5
6 08/14/97 f310625
1. Capscrew (5/8–18 x 1–3/4")
08/14/97 f310624 2. Washer (2-5/8 x 21/32")
1. Capscrew, 1/2–20 x 1–3/4 3. Roller (5/8" i.d.)
2. Washer, 1–3/4" o.d. x 9/16" i.d. 4. Threaded Hole in Yoke
3. Roller, 1/2" i.d. 5. Cam Plate Track
4. Cam Plate Attachment Pivot Hole
5. Hole for Right Release
Fig. 14, Install the Capscrew Into the Yoke
6. Locknut, 1/2–20 5.7 Check the alignment of the recessed hole
7. Hole for Left Release
in the yoke shaft. Then, install the 5/8-
8. Cam Plate
inch capscrew through the washers,
Fig. 13, Install the Cam Plate roller, and cam plate and into the
threaded hole in the yoke. Make sure the
5.4 Install the 1/2-inch capscrew through the capscrew enters the recessed hole in the
washers, roller, and top plate lug. Then, yoke shaft. Then, tighten the capscrew
secure the capscrew with the 1/2-inch securely. See Fig. 14.
locknut and tighten securely. See Fig. 13.
5.8 Check for free movement of the cam
5.5 Check for free movement of the cam plate.
plate.
6. Install the secondary lock.
NOTE: When installing the washers, the
rounded edge of the washers must always 6.1 If equipped with the automatic version,
start the roll pin into the hole in the top
face the cam plate. plate opposite the cam attachment cap-
5.6 Align the cam plate track over the screw. Then, assemble and install the
threaded hole in the yoke. Then slide a secondary lock and torsion spring. Make
2-5/8 inch o.d. washer between the yoke sure the flats of the torsion spring are
and the cam plate with the rounded side resting against the casting. See Fig. 15.
of the washer facing the cam plate. Then
With a suitable hammer, drive the roll pin
place the 5/8-inch roller into the cam
through the torsion spring and secondary
plate track and place the second 2-5/8

lock until the roll pin is flush with the cast- 6.5 Check the lock spring for tension and lock
ing. See Fig. 15. for free movement.
Check the lock spring for tension and lock
for free movement.
1 3 4
5
2
08/15/97 f310628
1. Roll Pin, 1/2 x 2-3/4

3 2. Torsion Spring
3. Guide Hole
4. Secondary Lock Release Handle
5. Secondary Lock
08/14/97 f310626 Fig. 16, Install the Secondary Lock

1. Roll Pin, 1/2 x 2-3/4 7. Adjust the lock. See Fig. 17.
2. Torsion Spring
3. Secondary Lock
Fig. 15, Install the Secondary Lock

6.2 Pass the "S" bend of the manual second-
ary release handle through the casting
guide hole (If equipped with the manual
version). Then, pass the "S" bend of the 2
release handle through the large hole in
1
the secondary lock. See Fig. 16.
6.3 Start the roll pin into the hole in the top
plate opposite the cam attachment cap-
screw (If equipped with the manual ver-
sion). Then, assemble and install the sec-
ondary lock and torsion spring. Make sure
the flats of the torsion spring are resting
against the casting. See Fig. 16.
08/18/97 f310614
6.4 With a suitable hammer, drive the roll pin 1. Lock Tester
through the torsion spring and secondary 2. Adjustment Nut
lock until the roll pin is flush with the cast-
ing (If equipped with the manual version). Fig. 17, Adjusting the Lock
See Fig. 16.

7.1 If equipped, pull the secondary release 8.3 The fifth wheel is now ready for opera-
handle and hook it on the casting. Next, tion.
pull the primary release handle to open
9. Install the top plate.
the locks. Now, remove the 2-inch plug.
9.1 Using an overhead hoist, lift and position
7.2 Turn the fifth wheel right side up and
the fifth wheel over the bracket assembly.
close the locks using a Holland Lock
tester (see Holland publication FW130 for 9.2 Install the bushing pins through the fifth
operating instructions for the lock tester). wheel and into the bracket assembly.
Then, install and tighten securely the
7.3 Verify that the locks are completely
1/2–20 bushing pin capscrews and lock-
closed around the kingpin. The lock
nuts. See Fig. 18. Remove the overhead
halves should be seated against each
hoist.
other.
7.4 Alternate tightening the adjustment nut
and attempting to turn the lock tester
back and forth. Continue tightening the
adjustment nut until there is some resis- 1
tance felt in the lock tester (as it is turned
back and forth).
The fifth wheel is properly adjusted when
there is resistance between locks and the
lock tester, but the lock tester can still be 4
turned by hand.
7.5 Pull the release handle and remove the 3 2
lock tester.
08/04/97 f310601
8. Check the fifth wheel for proper operation.
1. Capscrew
8.1 Using the Holland lock tester, open and 2. Bushing Pin
close the fifth wheel at least three times. 3. Locknut
4. Top Plate
Each time you close the locks, verify that
the locks have closed completely around Fig. 18, Install the Bushing Pin
the kingpin and that the adjustment nut
9.3 Lubricate the fifth wheel. For instructions,
and rubber bushing are seated snug
see Group 31 of the Heavy-Duty Trucks
against the casting.
Maintenance Manual.
8.2 Check for resistance between the locks
and the lock tester one final time, and
adjust as needed.
WARNING
not use it. Either disassemble it and repeat the
rebuilding procedure or contact your nearest Hol-
land representative for assistance. Never use a
fifth wheel that does not operate properly. The
fifth wheel could malfunction, resulting in bodily
injury or property damage due to a possible
separation of the trailer from the tractor.

Troubleshooting
Problem—The Fifth Wheel Is Hard to Hook Up to the Trailer
Problem—The Fifth Wheel Is Hard to
Hook Up to the Trailer
The trailer may be too high; the kingpin is Lower the trailer landing gear until the bolster plate contacts the fifth wheel.
not entering the locks properly.
The locks are closed. Pull the release handle and pry open the locks.
Rust or grime is interfering with the lock Spray a light lubricant or diesel fuel on all moving parts including the release
operation. handle. Operate the release mechanism several times.
The fifth wheel locks are too tight. Check the lock adjustment. Correct as needed.
A bent release handle, bent kingpin, or Check the release handle, kingpin, and bolster plate. Replace parts as
damaged bolster plate is interfering with required.
the lock movement.
The locks are damaged. Inspect the locks and replace parts as required.
The fifth wheel needs rebuilding. Rebuild the fifth wheel, using the parts in the appropriate rebuilding kit.
Problem—The Fifth Wheel Is Hard to Unhook from the Trailer

Problem—The Fifth Wheel Is Hard to
Unhook from the Trailer
The secondary lock is not released. If equipped with a manual secondary lock, pull the release handle and lock it
open by resting it against the top plate. If equipped with an automatic
secondary lock, inspect the lock for missing or broken parts, and repair or
replace as required.
The tractor is putting pressure against the Set trailer brakes. Back the tractor into the trailer to relieve pressure and lock
locks. the tractor brakes before pulling the release handle.
There is rust or grime on the locking Spray a light lubricant or diesel fuel on all moving parts including the release
mechanism. handle. Operate the release mechanism several times.
The kingpin is bent or the bolster plate is Check the kingpin, using a Holland TF–0110 Kingpin Gauge. Check the
damaged. bolster plate, using a 48-inch (122 cm) straight edge. Repair or replace parts
as required.
The fifth wheel locks are too tight. Check the lock adjustment. Correct as needed.
The release handle will not stay out or Replace the cam or release arm and the release handle spring.
must be held out when unlocking.

Fifth-Wheel Mount, Sliding, Holland FW35/FW2535 Series 31.06
General Information
General Information The manually operated release slider contains a re-

lease lever ( Fig. 2), which when manually pulled or
released, unlocks or locks both sides of the sliding
NOTE: For Holland 3500 series fifth wheel ser- mount at the same time.
vice operations, see Section 31.05 in this
group.
NOTE: Prior to June 1, 1996, the Holland sliding
fifth wheel mount carried a part number prefix
FW2535. Since June 1,1996, the Holland sliding
fifth wheel mount part number prefix has been
replaced by FW35.
1
The Holland sliding fifth wheel mount is designed to
provide maximum tractor use for different lengths
and types of trailers. The FW2535/FW35 sliding fifth
wheel mount is used with the Holland 3500 series
fifth wheel, and is equipped with either a manually 2
operated or an air-operated release slider.
07/31/97 f310595
Sliding fifth wheel assemblies are mounted on a
NOTE: Baseplate rails not shown.
baseplate with notched rails. See Fig. 1. Plungers
1. Release Lever
are meshed into teeth on the baseplate to lock the
2. Slider Plunger Release
fifth wheel. This assembly allows forward or rearward
movement of the fifth wheel along the notched rails Fig. 2, Manual Release Slider Assembly
for optimum weight distribution over the tractor axles.
The mounting baseplate is bolted to the tractor The air-operated release slider contains a double-
frame. ended air cylinder ( Fig. 3), which locks and unlocks
both sides of the sliding mount at the same time. The
air cylinder is activated by a two-position air-control
2 valve in the tractor cab. See Fig. 4.
4
3
05/04/93 f310370 2
1. Baseplate 3. Slide Mount
2. Fifth Wheel Top Plate 4. Baseplate Rail
(XA–3500)
07/31/97 f310596
NOTE: Baseplate rails not shown.

Fig. 1, XA-3500 Sliding Fifth Wheel
1. Double-Ended Air Cylinder
When the fifth wheel is in the desired position, it is 2. Slider Plunger Release
locked in place by wedge-shaped plungers that en- Fig. 3, Air Valve Release Slider Assembly
gage in the notched rails under the sliding mount. To
release the fifth wheel, the plungers are withdrawn.

31.06 Fifth-Wheel Mount, Sliding, Holland FW35/FW2535 Series
General Information
5th WHEEL
SLIDE
LOCK
MUST BE LOCKED
WHEN VEHICLE
IS IN MOTION
22−11571−3
02/09/94 f310047a
Fig. 4, Control Valve

See Chapter 10 (FLD) or Chapter 10 (FLB) in the
vehicle driver’s manual for complete operating in-
structions.

Sliding Mount Disassembly and Assembly
Disassembly
3 1
WARNING
Fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- 1
building must be done only by a qualified me- 2
chanic. Incorrect or incomplete procedures could 4
travel, possibly causing bodily injury and prop-
erty damage.
1. Remove the top plate. 3
1.1 If equipped with model XA–3501 top

plate, remove the roll pins ( Fig. 1) from 2
both the right and left side of the top
plate. Then, remove the bushing pins.
5
Using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth
wheel off the slide mount assembly.
1.2 If equipped with model XA–351 top plate,
loosen and remove the 1/2–20 bushing
pin capscrews and locknuts from both the
left and right sides of the top plate. Then,
remove the bushing pins ( Fig. 1) from 5
the bracket assembly. 6
08/01/97 f310373
Using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth
wheel off the slide mount assembly. 1. Capscrew and 4. Fifth Wheel Top Plate
Locknut (XA–351 5. Rubber Bushing
only) 6. Slide Mount
WARNING 2. Bushing Pin Assembly
3. Roll Pin (XA–3501
When draining the air reservoir, do not look into only)
the air jets, or direct them toward anyone. Dirt or
sludge particles may be in the airstream, and Fig. 1, Sliding Mount Components
could cause injury if ejected.
2. If the fifth wheel has a manual release sliding
mount, then go to the next step. Otherwise, drain
the air reservoir; then disconnect and plug the air
line from the air cylinder.
WARNING
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
goggles during disassembly and assembly, and
keep fingers away from possible pinch points at
the ends of springs. Failure to do so can result in
bodily injury, due to parts ejecting with force.
3. Using a Holland TF–TN 2500 spring compressor 05/06/93 f310374
( Fig. 2), compress one of the plunger return
springs ( Fig. 3). Fig. 2, Spring Compressor

11
2
1
10 11
3 13
4 14
5 12
12
15 5
15 4 2
7 3
16 1
16
A
2
1
3
4 7
5
6
5
4 2
3
9
8
09/29/97 f310375
A. Spring assembly for 6.62 and 8.12 inch (16.8 and 20.6 cm) fifth wheel heights
1. Plunger 7. Air-Release Cylinder 12. Locknut, 3/8–16
2. Retaining Pin 8. Slide Mount Assembly 13. Tie Bar
3. Spring Compression Stop 9. Baseplate 14. Left Release Lever
4. Plunger Return Spring 10. Right Release Lever 15. Capscrew, 1/2–20
5. Spring Retainer 11. Capscrew, 3/8–16 16. Locknut, 1/2–20
6. Manual Release Lever
Fig. 3, Spring Assemblies

4. Remove the plunger retaining pin ( Fig. 3) from

the plunger end, and either the air-release cylin-
Assembly
der or manual release lever clevis. Then remove
the plunger. WARNING
If equipped with a fifth wheel height of 6.62 or Fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re-
8.12 inches (16.8 or 20.6 cm), remove the building must be done only by a qualified me-
plunger retaining pin from the release lever, then chanic. Incorrect or incomplete procedures could
remove the plunger. result in loss of trailer connection during vehicle
5. Carefully remove the spring compressor; then travel, possibly causing bodily injury and prop-
remove the plunger return spring, the spring erty damage.
compression stop, and the spring retainer (
Fig. 3). 1. Using a rubber lubricant or a waterless hand
cleaner, lubricate the outer surfaces of the new
Repeat the procedure for the other plunger. rubber bushings.
6. Remove the air-release cylinder or the manual 2. Install the rubber bushings ( Fig. 1) into the slide
release lever. mount assembly until they are flush with the out-
If equipped with a fifth wheel height of 6.62 or board ends of the assembly.
8.12 inches (16.8 or 20.6 cm), remove the air- 3. Using a multipurpose chassis grease, lubricate
release cylinder or the manual release lever the flanges on the slide mount assembly. Then
along with the right and left release levers ( slide the assembly onto the tracks of the base-
Fig. 3). Disconnect the release levers from the plate.
air-release cylinder or manual release lever.
4. Move the slide mount assembly to the rearmost
position. Install the plungers into the outboard
WARNING ends of the slide mount. Engage the plungers in
the rail teeth.
Wear protective eye and facial gear when grind-
ing to remove the rear stops. Failure to do so 5. Install the rear stops under the curled edge of
could result in personal injury due to flying metal the baseplate. Allow a clearance of about 1/8
debris from the grinding. inch (3 mm) from the rear stops to the slide
mount (when it’s in the full rear position. The
7. If the slide mount assembly ( Fig. 3) is damaged, stops should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (6 to 13
dismantle it from the baseplate (Ref. 9). mm) from the rear edge of the baseplate). See
7.1 Grind down the welded area to remove Fig. 4.
the rear stops. 6. Clamp the rear stops in place, then move the
7.2 Remove the slide mount assembly from slide mount assembly forward and out of the
the baseplate by sliding it off the rear of way.
the tracks. 7. Weld the stops in place. The welds should be
8. Remove all dirt and grease from the parts. Re- 1/4-inch (6 mm) fillet. On the forward edge, weld
place any parts that show signs of wear or dam- only the center area; not the area where the
age. slide mount assembly contacts the stop. See
Fig. 4.
NOTE: If the rubber bushings ( Fig. 1) are dam-
aged, or if they allow movement of more than 8. Move the slide mount assembly to the rearmost
1/8 inch (3 mm), replace them. position and check for clearance. Make sure the
plungers seat into the rail with all teeth engaged.
9. If equipped with a fifth wheel height of 6.62 or
8.12 inches (16.8 or 20.6 cm), and if new release
levers are being installed, attach the right and
left release levers to the tie bar ( Fig. 3). Install

its spring retainer enough to access the hole

through the end of the plunger shaft.
1
12. If equipped with a standard fifth wheel, position
the air-release cylinder or the manual release
lever so that the holes in its clevis line up with
A the hole through the end of the plunger shaft.
Install the retaining pin.
2
If equipped with a fifth wheel height of 6.62 or
8.12 inches (16.8 or 20.6 cm), line up the holes
in the clevis of one of the release levers ( Fig. 3)
3 with the hole in the end of the plunger shaft. In-
3
stall the retaining pin.
13. Carefully remove the spring compressor.
2 4 14. Repeat the procedure on the other side of the
B 3
vehicle.
15. If the fifth wheel has a manual release sliding
mount, then go to the next step, otherwise con-
nect the air lines.
05/06/93 f310162a
15.1 Remove the plugs from the air line.
A. Weld carefully to avoid slide mount. 15.2 Connect the air line to the inlet on the
B. 1/4 to 1/2 inch (6 to 13 mm) air-release cylinder.
1. Slide Mount 3. Weld 15.3 Start the engine to build air pressure,
2. Rear Stop 4. Baseplate then check the operation of the slide
Fig. 4, Slide Stop Installation mechanism.
16. Adjust the plungers, following the procedure in
3/8–16 capscrews and locknuts and tighten them Subject 110.
firmly, but make sure the parts are not binding.
17. Install the top plate.
Using the 1/2–20 capscrews and locknuts, attach
the air-release cylinder or the manual release 17.1 If equipped with model XA–3501 top
lever to the ends of the release levers, tighten plate, using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth
the nuts firmly, but make sure the parts are not wheel onto the slide mount assembly.
binding.
From both the right and left side of the
10. Install the spring compression stops and the top plate, install the bushing pins and the
plunger return springs on the inboard ends of the roll pins ( Fig. 1).
plungers. Then install the spring retainers.
17.2 If equipped with model XA–351 top plate,
using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth
WARNING wheel onto the slide mount assembly.
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety From both the right and left side of the
goggles during disassembly and assembly, and top plate, Install the bushing pins. Then,
keep fingers away from possible pinch points at install and tighten snugly the 1/2–20
the ends of springs. Failure to do so can result in bushing pin capscrews and locknuts (
bodily injury, due to parts ejecting with force. Fig. 1).
11. Using a Holland TF–TN 2500 spring compressor,
compress one of the plunger return springs and

Sliding Mount Assembly Plunger Adjustment
Adjustment 3. If the adjusted plunger binds on the bottom of

the pocket, remove it; then grind the plunger top
edges 1/16 inch (2 mm). See Fig. 2. Install the
WARNING plunger. See Subject 100 for plunger removal
and installation instructions.
building must be done only by a qualified me- Adjust the plunger, following the instructions
chanic. Incorrect or incomplete procedures could above.
travel, possibly causing bodily injury and prop- A
erty damage.
NOTE: The locking plungers are adjusted at in-

stallation and again after one month of opera-
tion. Make additional adjustments as needed.
1. The plungers should seat in the pocket with a
small amount of play when locked (engaged).
See Fig. 1. If they wedge or bind, turn the ad- 05/06/93 f310372
justing bolt clockwise or counterclockwise as A. Check for interference here.
needed.
Fig. 2, Plunger Checking
Turning the adjusting bolt clockwise moves the
plunger out of the pocket; turning it counterclock- 4. If the plungers are too loose, check the tension
wise moves the plunger further into the pocket. of the plunger return springs. If the springs are
damaged or worn, replace them, following the
instructions in Subject 100.
If the plungers are still too loose, replace the
plungers, following the instructions in Sub-
ject 100.
4
3
2
11/21/95 f310371
1. Plunger Adjusting 3. Plunger
Bolt 4. Rack
2. Pocket
Fig. 1, Plunger Position

2. If the plungers don’t unlock (release), check the
air-release cylinder or the manual release lever
for correct operation. Replace it if needed. See
Subject 100 for removal and installation instruc-
tions.

Fifth Wheel, Fontaine® 5000 Series 31.07
General Description
Fontaine 5000 series fifth wheels are used for pulling
trailers having the standard kingpin. When installed
as a stationary fifth wheel, it is bracket-mounted to
the tractor frame in a position that best distributes
the trailer load over the tractor axles. When used as
a sliding fifth wheel ( Fig. 1), it is mounted on the
Fontaine 5AWS or 5MWS model sliding mount.
The Fontaine fifth wheel lock mechanism for the
trailer kingpin consists of a spring-loaded jaw and a
sliding wedge. Kingpin release is accomplished by
activating a manual lock control handle located on
either the right side (curbside) or left side (roadside)
of the fifth wheel. Kingpin lockup occurs when the
kingpin is forced into the jaws and the lock control
handle moves to the locked position.
As the kingpin enters the lock mechanism, the jaw is
moved first with the spring-loaded wedge sliding in
place against the jaw. See Fig. 2. The jaw will move
behind the kingpin, followed by the wedge. The
wedge reinforces the jaw and takes up slack around
the kingpin.
Placing the lock control handle in the unlocked posi-
tion moves the wedge and jaw out from behind the
kingpin. This action unlocks the fifth wheel, allowing
freedom of movement underneath the trailer when
the tractor is moved.
Refer to the vehicle driver’s manual for complete op-
erating instructions.

31.07 Fifth Wheel, Fontaine® 5000 Series
07/24/95 f310188
Fig. 1, Fontaine 5000 Series Fifth Wheel and Sliding Mount
1 A
B C
07/24/95 f310184
Fig. 2, Fontaine Kingpin Lock Mechanism

Removal and Disassembly
Removal and Disassembly Slide the release handle out through the side of
the fifth wheel. See Fig. 5.
(See Fig. 1)
8. Slide the operating handle over to the side of the
fifth wheel. See Fig. 6.
WARNING NOTE: Slide the bottom part of the operating
WARNING: All fifth wheel maintenance, adjust- handle first. This will allow the handle to clear
ment, and rebuilding must be done only by a the studs under the handle.
qualified mechanic. Improper or incomplete pro-
9. Lift the timer (Ref.3) off the studs. See Fig. 7.
cedures could result in a hazardous operating
condition due to a possible disengagement of the 10. Slide the operating handle out through the slot at
trailer from the tractor. the top or bottom of the fifth wheel. See Fig. 8.
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety 11. Using pliers or a screwdriver, pry the wedge and
goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail- jaw springs (Refs. 2 and 5) over the studs.
ure to do so can result in personal injury, due to See Fig. 9.
parts ejecting with force.
12. Remove the jaw and wedge (Ref. 4).
1. Steam clean the top plate. Remove it from the See Fig. 10.
sliding mount by removing the cotter pins (Ref. 13. Remove the jaw and wedge springs as follows:
6) from the retaining pins (Ref. 7). Remove the
retaining pins and bushing pins (Ref. 9) from 13.1 Remove the cotter pin ( Fig. 11).
both sides of the top plate. 13.2 Using a screwdriver, pry up on the spring
2. Using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth wheel off to relieve tension and remove it.
the sliding mount and tractor frame. See Fig. 12.
3. Turn the fifth wheel upside down.
NOTE: While disassembling the fifth wheel,
check it for cracks and for missing or damaged
parts.
WARNING
WARNING: Do not attempt to repair or rebuild
the top plate if it is cracked or if parts are dam-
aged. The top plate or parts could malfunction.
This could result in disengagement of the trailer
during vehicle travel, possibly causing personal
injury and property damage.
4. Unhook the bumper spring (Ref. 17) from its
clasp. See Fig. 2 .
5. Remove the two hexhead capscrews (Refs. 14
and 16) from the operating handle (Ref. 12).
See Fig. 3.
6. Remove the bumper (Ref. 15). See Fig. 4.
7. Remove the cotter pin (Ref. 6) and flatwasher
(Ref. 13) that attach the release handle (Ref. 18)
to the operating handle.

6
21
7
9
8
20
23
19
13
5 22
18
1 6
7
3 8
4
16
2 9 11
15
13
1 10
10
11
12
13
14
07/24/95 f310349
1. 3-inch Cotter Pin 10. 1/2–13 Locknut 17. Bumper Spring

2. Wedge Spring 11. Pivot Bushing 18. Release Handle
3. Timer 12. Operating Handle 19. Wedge Stoprod Spring
4. Jaw and Wedge 13. 1/2-Inch Flatwasher 20. 5/8-Inch Flatwasher
5. Jaw Spring 14. 1/2–13 x 2-Inch Hexhead 21. Wedge Stoprod
6. 1-Inch Cotter Pin Capscrew 22. 5/8–11 Square Nut
7. Retaining Pin 15. Bumper 23. Fifth Wheel Top Plate
8. Grease Fitting 16. 1/2–13 x 1-1/2 Inch Hexhead
9. Bushing Pin Capscrew
Fig. 1, Fontaine 5000 Series Fifth Wheel (right-side release shown)

08/08/94 f310333a 08/08/94 f310336a
Fig. 2, Bumper Spring Removal Fig. 5, Pull Handle Removal
08/08/94 f310334a 08/08/94 f310337a
Fig. 3, Bolt Removal Fig. 6, Operating Handle Positioning
08/08/94 f310335a 08/08/94 f310338a
Fig. 4, Bumper Removal Fig. 7, Timer Removal

08/08/94 f310339a 08/08/94 f310342a
Fig. 8, Operating Handle Removal Fig. 11, Cotter Pin Removal
08/08/94 f310340a 08/08/94 f310343a
Fig. 9, Wedge and Jaw Springs Removal Fig. 12, Spring Removal
08/08/94 f310341a
Fig. 10, Jaw and Wedge Removal

Assembly and Installation

(See Fig. 1)
6
21
7
9
8
20
23
19
13
5 22
18
1 6
7
3 8
4
16
2 9 11
15
13
1 10
10
11
12
13
14
07/24/95 f310349
1. 3-inch Cotter Pin 10. 1/2–13 Locknut 17. Bumper Spring

2. Wedge Spring 11. Pivot Bushing 18. Release Handle
3. Timer 12. Operating Handle 19. Wedge Stoprod Spring
4. Jaw and Wedge 13. 1/2-Inch Flatwasher 20. 5/8-Inch Flatwasher
5. Jaw Spring 14. 1/2–13 x 2-Inch Hexhead 21. Wedge Stoprod
6. 1-Inch Cotter Pin Capscrew 22. 5/8–11 Square Nut
7. Retaining Pin 15. Bumper 23. Fifth Wheel Top Plate
8. Grease Fitting 16. 1/2–13 x 1-1/2 Inch Hexhead
9. Bushing Pin Capscrew
Fig. 1, Fontaine 5000 Series Fifth Wheel (right-side release shown)

WARNING goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
ure to do so can result in personal injury, due to
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- parts ejecting with force.
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could IMPORTANT: Replace any parts that show signs
result in a hazardous operating condition due to of wear, damage, or deterioration.
a possible disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor.

NOTE: Order the spring tool part number 710

WARNING from: Fontaine Fifth Wheel Company, 125 Cle-
When cleaning parts with no. 2 diesel fuel, do not age Drive, Birmingham, Alabama 35217
smoke or use an open flame near the area. To do Using a hammer, tap down on the spring until it
so could result in a possible fire. catches on the stud. Install the cotter pin (
1. Clean all moving parts with no. 2 diesel fuel be- Fig. 4).
fore assembly. 4. The jaw spring has very little tension; install it by
2. Insert the wedge spring through the slot and lay hand.
the spring coil over the spring bracket. See
Fig. 2.
08/08/94 f310346a
08/08/94 f310344a Fig. 4, Cotter Pin Installation
Fig. 2, Wedge Spring Installation 5. Install a 2-inch diameter shaft where the kingpin
will engage in the fifth wheel.
3. Insert the spring tool part number 710 into the 6. Apply a moderate amount of a multipurpose
spring bracket ( Fig. 3). Engage the small chassis grease to the sides and serrated edges
hooked tail and wind it around until it is directly of the jaw and wedge ( Fig. 1, Ref. 4), and also
over the small stud at the back of the bracket. the stationary jaw in the throat of the fifth wheel.
7. Install the wedge and jaw.
8. Using pliers or a screwdriver, pry the jaw and
wedge springs over the studs. See Fig. 5.
9. Insert the operating handle (Ref. 12) and move it
over to the side of the wheel. Apply a moderate
amount of multipurpose chassis grease to the
grooved middle section of the operating handle.
10. Install the timer (Ref. 3) over the studs.
NOTE: The small hole on the timer fits over the
top stud. Make sure the small bent arm of the
timer is facing down.
08/08/94 f310345a
11. Slide the operating handle (top part first) over to
Fig. 3, Spring Winding the side. Make sure that the handle is in a verti-
cal position once it goes over the studs. See
Fig. 6.

17. Using multipurpose chassis grease, grease the

top plate and the zerk fittings on the side of the
fifth wheel.
On heavy-duty oscillating fifth wheels, grease the
top of the rocker bearing bushing.
18. Measure the distance from the wedge to the end
of the wedge stoprod (see Fig. 7). The correct
measurement should be 3/8 inch (10 mm). Turn
the wedge stoprod clockwise if the measurement
is more than 3/8 inch (10 mm), or turn it counter-
clockwise if the measurement is less than 3/8
inch (10 mm).
08/08/94 f310347a
IMPORTANT: The fifth wheel must be well lubri-
Fig. 5, Jaw and Wedge Spring Installation cated to operate correctly. Refer to the fifth
wheel section in the vehicle maintenance
manual, for complete maintenance and lubrica-
tion instructions of the fifth wheel assembly.
WARNING
not use it. The fifth wheel could malfunction, re-
sulting in personal injury or property damage due
to possible disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor.
08/08/94 f310348a ing pins. Install the retaining pins and the 1-inch
long cotter pins.
Fig. 6, Operating Handle Positioning
12. Slide the release handle (Ref. 18) in through the
safety lock. Using a flatwasher (Ref. 13) and cot-
ter pin (Ref. 6), attach the release handle to the
second hole from the top on the operating
handle.
13. Position the bumper (Ref. 15), then attach it to
the operating handle with a new 1/2–13 x 1-1/2
inch capscrew (Ref. 16), bushing, washer, and
locknut.
14. On the other end of the operating handle, install
a new 1/2–13 x 2 inch capscrew (Ref. 14),
washer, bushing, and locknut.
15. Apply multipurpose chassis grease to the operat-
ing handle, and to other fifth wheel parts that
may come into contact with the handle during
operation.
16. Connect the bumper spring.

1 2
08/08/94 f310185a
A. 3/8" (10 mm)
1. Stoprod
2. Wedge
Fig. 7, Correct Measurement

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
The trailer may be too high; the kingpin is
Lower the trailer landing gear until the trailer plate contacts the fifth wheel.
not entering the locks correctly.
Bent kingpin, or damaged trailer plate is
Check the kingpin and trailer plate. Replace parts as needed.
interfering with the lock movement.

The tractor is putting pressure against the Back the tractor into the trailer; set the tractor brakes. Strike the wedge
locks. stoprod to release pressure.
Check that the wedge stoprod is 3/8 inch (10 mm) from the end of the wedge.
Adjust as needed.
Too much slack in the fifth wheel locks. Check the kingpin diameter; it should not be worn more than 3/8 inch (10
mm). Replace if needed.
Check the jaw and wedge for excessive wear. Replace if needed.

Sliding Fifth-Wheel Mount, Fontaine® 5AWB and 5MWS
Models 31.08
General Description side (roadside) of the fifth wheel, which locks or un-
locks both sides of the sliding mount.
The Fontaine sliding fifth-wheel mount is designed to
1
provide optimum axle loading for maximum tractor
use with different lengths and types of trailers. The
sliding fifth-wheel mount is used with the Fontaine
5000 series fifth wheel and is equipped with either an
air-operated release slider (5AWB model),or a
manual release slider (5MWS model).
Sliding fifth wheel assemblies are mounted on slide
rails that are attached to the vehicle frame.
See Fig. 1. Tapered holes are evenly spaced along
the slider rails, and retractable tapered wedges are
positioned through the holes to hold the fifth wheel in
the desired position. This assembly allows forward or
rearward movement of the fifth wheel along the slide
rails for optimum weight distribution over the tractor
axles. The slide rails are bolted to the tractor frame.
2
Principles of Operation 07/25/95 f310189
1. Release Slider 2. Air Cylinder
When the fifth wheel is in the desired position, it is
locked in place by tapered wedges that engage in Fig. 2, Air-Operated Sliding Fifth Wheel Mount, 5AWB
the tapered holes under the sliding mount. To release Model
the fifth wheel, the wedges are withdrawn (manually
or air-operated).
erating instructions.
The air-operated release slider contains an air cylin-
der (Fig. 2) which locks and unlocks both sides of 1
the sliding mount at the same time. The air cylinder
is activated by a two-position air-control valve in the
tractor cab.
2
07/25/95 f310351
1. Fifth-Wheel Mount 2. Sliding Rails 2
07/25/95 f310190
Fig. 1, Sliding Fifth-Wheel Assembly 1. Release Slider 2. Air Cylinder
The manual release slider assembly (Fig. 3) contains Fig. 3, Manual Release Sliding Fifth Wheel Mount,
a slider locking control handle, located on the left 5MWS Model

31.08 Models

Models 31.08
Disassembly
5
4
3
7 8
6
5 2
4
1 9
07/25/95 f310183
Fig. 1, Fontaine Sliding Fifth Wheel Mount, Model 5AWB (Air-Operated)

3.1 Drain the air from the air reservoirs. Dis-
WARNING connect the air line from the air cylinder
(Ref. 8). Remove the O-ring (Ref. 7) if it
WARNING: All fifth wheel maintenance, adjust-
shows signs of wear. Install plugs in the
ment, and rebuilding must be done only by a
air line and the air cylinder to prevent dirt
qualified mechanic. Improper or incomplete pro-
or other matter from entering.
cedures could result in a hazardous operating
condition due to a possible disengagement of the 3.2 Remove the locknuts (Ref. 6) from the
trailer from the tractor. tapered wedges (Ref. 3) and the air cylin-
1. Remove the top plate by removing the cotter der.
pins from the retaining pins). Then remove the 3.3 Remove the support bars (Ref. 5), spacer
retaining pins and bushing pins from both sides bushings (Ref. 4), and the sockethead
of the top plate. capscrews (Ref. 2).
2. Using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth wheel off Remove the air cylinder and the wedges.
the sliding mount and tractor frame.
4. If equipped with a manual release, do the follow-
3. If equipped with a release air cylinder, remove it ing (See Fig. 2):
as follows (See Fig. 1):

31.08 Models
7 7
6 6
9
8 4
4 3
7
5
6
9 4 5
7 11 2
6
5
2
4 10
3
2 7
6
A
1
12
13
2
7
6
13
A 2
07/25/95 f310350
Fig. 2, Fontaine Sliding Fifth Wheel Mount, Model 5MWS (Manual Release)
4.1 Remove the three springs (Ref. 5) from 4.4 Remove the locknut, washer, spacer bush-
the sliding mount assembly (Ref.12). ing, and hexhead capscrew (Ref. 10) from
the latching lever (Ref. 11).
4.2 Remove the locknuts (Ref. 7) from the
tapered wedges (Ref. 3). Remove the latching lever.
Remove the washers (Ref. 6), spacer 5. If the sliding mount assembly is damaged, re-
bushings (Ref. 4), and sockethead cap- move it as follows:
screws (Ref. 2).
5.1 Remove the nuts, washers, and socket-
Remove the wedges. head capscrews that secure the rear slide
stops (Ref. 13) to the rear of the base-
4.3 Remove the locknuts from the release plate.
handle (Ref. 8), and the lock-release bars
(Ref. 9).
WARNING
Remove the spacer bushings (Ref. 4),
washers (Ref. 6), and sockethead cap- WARNING: Wear protective eye and facial gear
screws (Ref. 2). when grinding to remove the rear stops. Failure
to wear this protective gear can result in per-
Remove the lock-release bars and the re- sonal injury due to flying metal debris from the
lease handle from the latching lever. grinding process.

Models 31.08
5.2 Grind down the welded area to remove 5.2 Using sockethead capscrews, spacer
the rear stops. bushings, washers, and locknuts, attach
the lock-release bars and release handle
5.3 Remove the sliding mount assembly from to the latching lever.
the baseplate by sliding it off the rear of
the tracks. 5.3 Using sockethead capscrews, spacer
bushings, washers, and locknuts, attach
6. Remove all dirt and grease from the parts. Re-
the sliding mount wedges to the lock-
place any parts that show signs of wear, dam-
release bars.
age, or deterioration.
5.4 Install the three springs on the bracket
Assembly assembly.
6. If equipped with the release air cylinder, do the
following:
6.1 Position the wedges in the holes on the
WARNING slide rails. Position the release air cylinder
WARNING: All fifth wheel maintenance, adjust- so that the ends line up with the holes in
ment, and rebuilding must be done only by a the wedges.
qualified mechanic. Improper or incomplete pro- 6.2 Install sockethead capscrews, spacer
cedures could result in a hazardous operating bushings, support bars, and locknuts.
condition due to a possible disengagement of the
trailer from the tractor. 6.3 Remove the plugs from the air line and
the air cylinder. Install a new O-ring (if
1. Using a multipurpose chassis lube, grease the needed), then connect the air line to the
flanges on the sliding mount. Then, slide the as- inlet on the air cylinder.
sembly onto the tracks of the baseplate.
2. Slide the mounting assembly to the rearmost po- on the sliding mount assembly. Insert the bush-
sition. Position the wedges in the rail. ing pins. Then install the retaining pins and cotter
Install the sockethead capscrews, washers, and pins.
nuts that secure the rear stops to the baseplate.
WARNING
WARNING: Wear a protective welding mask and
gloves when welding. Failure to do so could re-
sult in personal injury due to the intensity of
heat, sparks, and flying debris.
3. Slide the mounting assembly out of the way, then
weld the stops in place. The welds should be
1/4-inch (6 mm) fillet.
4. Slide the mounting assembly to the rearmost po-
sition and check for clearance. Make sure that
the wedges seat in the rail.
5. If equipped with a manual release, do the follow-
ing:
5.1 Using a hexhead capscrew, spacer bush-
ing, washer, and locknut, install the latch-
ing lever.

Fifth Wheels, ASF Castloc II® and Simplex® Series 31.09
General Information The fifth wheel lock mechanism for the trailer kingpin
consists of a rotating jaw that grips the trailer kingpin,
and a spring-actuated lock. The jaw rotates on a jaw
The ASF Castloc II™ and Simplex series fifth wheels
pin during coupling and uncoupling operations. King-
are used for pulling trailers having the standard
pin release is accomplished by activating a manual
2-inch diameter kingpin. When installed as a station-
lock control handle located on either the right side
ary fifth wheel ( Fig. 1), they are bracket-mounted to
(curbside) or left side (roadside) of the fifth wheel.
the tractor frame in a position that best distributes
Kingpin lockup occurs when the kingpin is forced into
the trailer load over the tractor axles. When used as
the jaw and the operating rod handle moves to the
a sliding fifth wheel ( Fig. 2), they are mounted on
locked position.
the Taperloc® sliding mount (air-operated or manual
release). On air-operated sliding mounts, release or lockup of
the slider saddle plate occurs when the air cylinder is
activated by a two-position air-control valve in the
1 tractor cab ( Fig. 3). The manually-operated slider
2 saddle plate has an operating rod that moves the
operating lever to lock or unlock both sides of the
saddle plate at the same time.
3
5th WHEEL
4
SLIDE
LOCK
11/28/95 f310353b
1. Lubricant Grooves 3. Lock Control Handle MUST BE LOCKED

WHEN VEHICLE
2. Safety Latch 4. Mount IS IN MOTION
Fig. 1, Simplex II Stationary Fifth Wheel

22−11571−3
5 02/09/94 f310047a
4
Fig. 3, Air Control Valve
6
3 Principles of Operation
8 When the tractor is moved out from under the trailer
3 after unlocking the fifth wheel, the kingpin rotates the
2 jaw until the jaw is in a position that allows the king-
pin to disconnect. During coupling, the motion of the
1 7
kingpin entering the jaw rotates the jaw into the
locked position, locking the jaw around the kingpin.
See Fig. 4 .
04/08/96 f310445
1. Baseplate 5. Safety Latch
2. Baseplate Rail 6. Slider Handle and erating instructions.
3. Fifth Wheel Bracket Rod Assembly
4. Slider Saddle Plate
Fig. 2, Taperloc Slider, Manually-Operated Release

31.09 Fifth Wheels, ASF Castloc II® and Simplex® Series
2 4
3
1
6
5
B C
04/08/96 f310446
A. Locked Position C. Fully Open

B. Jaw Movement
Compresses Spring
1. Lock Control Handle 3. Jaw
2. Safety Latch 4. Jaw Pin
Fig. 4, ASF Castloc II and Simplex Series Kingpin

Locking Mechanism Operation

Fifth Wheel Disassembly and Assembly

22 2
20
12 13 21
11 3
14 19
17 5 1
10 6
15
18
16
5
4 8
3
2
7
1
11/27/95 f310087b
1. Bracket pin 8. Top Plate 16. Washer
2. Clinch Pin 9. Lock Spring 17. Lever Bar Pin
3. Mounting Bracket (for stationary 10. Lock Control Handle 18. Cotter Pin
mounts) 11. Latch Pin 19. Lock
4. Grease Fitting 12. Cotter Pin 20. Jaw
5. Bracket Shoe 13. Safety Latch 21. Clinch Pin
6. Bracket Rubber 14. Cotter Pin 22. Jaw Pin
7. Cover Plate 15. Lever Bar
Fig. 1, Fifth Wheel Assembly, Simplex II Shown

NOTE: Although some of the parts are shaped
WARNING differently, disassembly and assembly proce-
Fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- dures are the same for ASF Castloc II and Sim-
building procedures must be done only by a plex series fifth wheels.
qualified mechanic. Incorrect or incomplete pro- 1. Lock the fifth wheel, using a bar.
cedures could cause the trailer to disconnect
from the tractor, which could result in an acci- 2. Steam clean the top plate. Remove it from the
dent causing death or serious injury, and prop- sliding or stationary mount by removing the
erty damage. clinch pins and the bracket pins. If cotter pins are
present instead of clinch pins, discard them.
Wear safety goggles during disassembly and as- Clinch pins may be reused. If needed, use a
sembly. Parts are under spring compression, and clamp, and compress the top plate and brackets
failure to wear goggles can result in personal in- to relieve the pressure on the bracket pins.
jury, due to parts ejecting with force.
3. Using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth wheel off
the mount and tractor frame.

4. Turn the fifth wheel upside down. 9. With the fifth wheel in the locked position, re-
move the clinch pin and the jaw pin.
parts. Assembly (See Fig. 1 )
WARNING WARNING
Do not attempt to repair or rebuild the top plate if Fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re-
it is cracked or if parts are damaged. The top building procedures must be done only by a
plate or parts could malfunction. This could qualified mechanic. Incorrect or incomplete pro-
cause the trailer to disconnect from the tractor, cedures could cause the trailer to disconnect
which could result in an accident causing death from the tractor, which could result in an acci-
or serious injury, and property damage. dent causing death or serious injury, and prop-
erty damage.
5. Slide the jaw away from the lock, then remove
the jaw from the top plate. Wear safety goggles during disassembly and as-
sembly. Parts are under spring compression, and
6. Remove the cotter pin and the lever bar pin. Dis- failure to wear goggles can result in personal in-
card the cotter pin. Remove the cover plate, le- jury, due to parts ejecting with force.
ver bar, lock, and lock spring.
7. Remove the cotter pin holding the lock control IMPORTANT: Replace any parts that show signs
rod to the lever bar; then remove the lock control of wear, damage, or deterioration. Brackets,
rod and the washer. Discard the cotter pin. bracket shoes, bracket rubbers, and bracket
pins should be replaced in pairs.
8. Check the bracket shoes and bracket rubbers for
wear. For instructions, see the Heavy-Duty 1. Clean all moving parts with no. 2 diesel fuel be-
Trucks Maintenance Manual. If needed, remove fore assembly.
the bracket rubbers and bracket shoes as fol- 2. Apply liquid soap to the bracket rubbers, then
lows: install them, making sure the cutout on them is
8.1 Remove the grease fitting and drive out facing outboard.
the bracket shoe. See Fig. 2. 3. Grease the bracket shoe surfaces that contact
the mounting brackets. Drive the bracket shoes
in place against the stop and replace the bracket
shoe grease fittings.
1
IMPORTANT: Do not grease the bracket rubbers
2
or pockets.
4. Apply a thin film of a multipurpose chassis
grease to the cover plate, lever bar pin, lever
bar, jaw, jaw pin, the lock, and the casting lock
area. The casting lock area is underneath the top
plate, where the lock sets.
03/08/930 f310092a 5. Install the lock spring into the lock; then install
1. Bracket Shoe them as a unit.
2. Stop
6. Install the lever bar, then the lever bar pin.
Fig. 2, Bracket Shoe Removal
7. Install the cover plate; then install a new cotter
8.2 Remove the bracket rubbers. pin in the lever bar pin.
8. Install the lock control handle onto the lever bar,
using a new cotter pin and the existing washer.

9. Slide the jaw into the lock and install the jaw pin.
Make sure the arrow on the jaw pin lines up with
the arrow on the top plate. See Fig. 3. Install the
clinch pin.
A
A B C
09/13/94 f310089a
A. Bottom View of Gauge 40–2–00171

B. Gauge Installed
C. Feeler Shim Opening
Fig. 4, Jaw Gauge

09/09/95 f310091a
A. Jaw pin positioned arrow-to-arrow.

Fig. 3, Jaw Pin Location
on the sliding or stationary mount brackets. 1
Clamp the fifth wheel in place to compress the
bracket rubbers. Insert the bracket pins and
clinch pins. 2
11. Check for clearance between the jaw and kingpin

as follows: 11/18/94 f310448
11.1 With the jaw open, insert an ASF gauge 1. Safety Latch
part number 40–2–00171 ( Fig. 4) or a 2. Lock Control Handle
new kingpin into the fifth wheel. Make
sure the safety latch swings freely over Fig. 5, Left-Side View
the lock control handle ( Fig. 5). This will ment was more than 1/8 inch (3.2 mm),
place the fifth wheel in the coupled and go to the next step.
locked position.
12. Adjust the clearance between the jaw and king-
11.2 Measure the distance between the kingpin as follows:
pin (or gauge) and the front edge of the
top plate slot. If using the gauge, make 12.1 Using a bar, move the jaw to the locked
sure it is flat on the fifth wheel, and pulled position. This will relieve the pressure on
as far to the rear as possible. the jaw pin.
11.3 Remove the gauge or kingpin. 12.2 Remove the clinch pin from the jaw pin.
Lift the jaw pin just enough to clear the
11.4 If the measurement was 1/8 inch (3.2 indexing head. Turn the jaw pin to the
mm) or less, skip the next two steps and next higher numbered position.
continue this procedure. If the measure-

NOTE: Starting from the original position,

with the arrow pointing to the rear, each turn C
of the jaw pin ( Fig. 6) to one of the three
positions (position numbers are indented on B
the casting) reduces the distance between 3
the kingpin and jaw. See Table 1. 3 2 D
A 2
12.3 Repeat the first two substeps in the last
step above. 1 1
Distance
Position
Each Turn Total
1 1/16" (1.6 mm) 1/16" (1.6 mm) E
10/15/96 f310090a
2 3/32" (2.4 mm) 5/32" (4.0 mm)
A. Jaw Pin Positions D. Lock
3 1/16" (1.6 mm) 7/32" (5.6 mm) B. Jaw Pin E. Original Position
Table 1, Jaw Positions C. Jaw
Fig. 6, Jaw Pin Positions

12.4 If the distance is 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) or
less, the clearance between the jaw and could result in an accident causing death or seri-
kingpin is correct. Go to the next step. ous injury, and property damage.
12.5 If the distance is still more than 1/8 inch
(3.2 mm), remove the gauge or kingpin.
12.6 Repeat the substeps above.
IMPORTANT: Don’t turn the jaw past position 3.
If more than 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) clearance re-
mains at position 3, replace the jaw, jaw pin,
and lock.
13. After the final adjustment, install the clinch pin in
the jaw pin.
14. Using a multipurpose chassis grease, grease the
top plate and the grease fittings.
IMPORTANT: The fifth wheel must be well lubri-
cated to operate correctly. See Group 31 of the
Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual for
complete maintenance and lubrication instruc-
tions of the fifth wheel assembly.
15. Check the fifth wheel operation. For instructions,
see the vehicle driver’s manual.
WARNING
Don’t use the fifth wheel if it doesn’t work cor-
rectly. The fifth wheel could malfunction, causing
the trailer to disconnect from the tractor. This

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
The trailer may be too high; the kingpin is
Lower the trailer landing gear until the trailer plate contacts the fifth wheel.
not entering the jaws correctly
Bent kingpin or damaged trailer plate is
Check the kingpin and trailer plate. Replace parts as needed.
interfering with the jaw movement.
The jaw pin has not been adjusted
Check the clearance between the jaw and kingpin. Adjust as needed.
correctly.
The lever bar is bent. Check the lever bar. Replace it if needed.
The lock control handle is bent. Check the lock control handle. Replace it if needed.
The safety latch is jammed. Check the lock control handle. Replace it if it is bent.
The cover plate is bent Check the cover plate. Replace it if needed.
Dirt has accumulated on the moving parts. Clean all the parts and lubricate them lightly.
Problem—Too Much Slack at the Kingpin

Problem—Too Much Slack at the Kingpin
The jaw pin has not been adjusted
Check the clearance between the jaw and kingpin. Adjust as needed.
correctly.
Check the kingpin diameter; it should not be worn more than 1/8 inch (3.2
The kingpin is worn.
mm). Replace if needed.

The operating rod is hard to pull out. Back the tractor a little to relieve any kingpin load against the fifth wheel jaw.
There is pressure on the jaw from the Back the tractor into the trailer to reduce the pressure.
kingpin.
The jaw is adjusted too tightly. Back the tractor inot the trailer to relieve the pressure on the jaw. Unlock the
fifth wheel. Adjust the jaw as needed.
The lever bar or the lock control handle is Check both parts. Replace if needed.
bent.
The cover plate is bent. Check the cover plate. Replace it if it is bent.

Bumpers 31.10
Aerodynamic Bumper Assembly Removal and
Installation
Removal (See Fig. 1) 1. For COEs, remove the four Phillips-head screws
holding the lower grille in place, then remove the
lower grille.
NOTE: Use these instructions when you need to
remove the bumper and air dam as a unit, in Tilt the cab, following the instructions in the ve-
order to access the front axle or the engine hicle driver’s manual.
crossmember. To remove only the bumper air For Conventionals, tilt the hood, following the
dam (or sections of it), refer elsewhere in this instructions in the vehicle driver’s manual.
group.
7 8 8 7
2 3, 4, 5 6 6 3, 4, 5
1
13 9
10, 11, 12
14 14
13
2
6 9
3, 4, 5 10, 11, 12
A B
08/19/93 f310361
A. Side View, Left and Right of Center B. Side View, Center
1. Air Dam Assembly 6. Bumper Strut Support 10. 5/16–18 Hexbolt (2 qty.)
2. Bumper 7. Phillips-Head Screw (2 qty.) 11. 5/16-inch Flatwasher (2 qty.)
3. 1/2–13 Hexnut (2 qty.) 8. 1/2–13 Allen- or Torx®-Head 12. 5/16–18 Locknut (2 qty.)
4. 1/2–13 Hexbolt (2 qty.) Screw (4 qty.) 13. Engine Crossmember
5. 1/2-inch Washer 9. Air Dam Hanger 14. Frame Rail Extension
Fig. 1, Aerodynamic Bumper Installation

31.10 Bumpers
Aerodynamic Bumper Assembly Removal and
Installation
2. Underneath the cab, remove the two lower fas-

teners holding the air dam hanger (Ref. 9) to the
air dam (Ref. 1).
3. Disconnect the wires from the fog/road lights.
4. Remove the fasteners from the bumper side of
each strut support (Ref. 6) attaching the bumper
to the frame rail extension (Ref. 14).
5. Lower the cab or hood.
6. At the front of the cab, remove the two Phillips-
head screws (Ref. 7) that attach the upper part
of the air dam to the upper flange of the bumper.
7. Pry out the air dam to access the four Allen- or
Torx®-head screws (Ref. 8) that hold the bumper
to the front crossmember.
8. While supporting the bumper and air dam as-
sembly, remove the four screws; then remove
the assembly.

1. Position the bumper and air dam assembly so
that the four holes in the bumper line up with the
those of the front crossmember, then install the
four Allen- or Torx-head screws (Ref. 8). Tighten
2. Install the two Phillips-head screws (Ref. 7) that
fasten the upper part of the air dam to the upper
flange of the bumper. Tighten them firmly.
3. Tilt the cab or hood, as applicable, following the
instructions in the vehicle driver’s manual.
4. Install the lower center of the air dam to the air
dam hanger (Ref. 9). Tighten the fasteners 15
lbf·ft (20 N·m).
5. Install the ends of the air dam onto the strut sup-
ports (Ref. 6). Tighten the fasteners 64 lbf·ft (87
N·m).
6. Lower the cab or hood, as applicable, following
the instructions in the vehicle driver’s manual.
7. On COEs, install the lower grille. Tighten the fas-
teners firmly.

Bumpers 31.10
Non-Aerodynamic Bumper Removal and
Installation
Removal Fastener Size Grade

Torque
lbf·ft (N·m)
NOTE: Refer to Table 1 for the applicable fig- 5/8–11 5 128 (173)
ure. 5/8–11 8 180 (244)
* See the "Caution" for torque values for COEs equipped with 8.5-inch or
Figure 16-inch bumpers.
Vehicle Model
Reference Table 2
COE with 8.5-inch or 16-inch Bumper Fig. 1
FLD Conventional, Axle Forward Fig. 2
FLD Conventional; Setback Axle, with Tow
Fig. 3
Eyes
FLD Conventional, Extended Straight Rail,
Fig. 4
Setback Axle
FLD 120 Conventional; Severe Duty, Setback
Fig. 5
Axle
FLD 112 Conventional; Setback Axle Fig. 6
Table 1
1. Remove the fasteners attaching the bumper to

the front crossmember and, if present, the
bumper brackets.
2. Remove the bumper.
Installation
1. Position the bumper so the holes in the bumper
align with those in the front crossmember.
CAUTION
Don’t use standard torque values when tighten-
ing the fasteners on 8-1/2-inch and 16-inch
bumpers for FLA and FLB COEs. To do so may
damage the spacers. Tighten the fasteners 35
lbf·ft (47 N·m). See Fig. 1.
2. Refer to the applicable figure. Install the fasten-
ers that attach the bumper to the front cross-
member. Don’t tighten them completely.
3. If applicable, attach the bumper to the bumper
brackets.
4. With the bumper correctly aligned, tighten all the
fasteners to the torque values in Table 2.
Torque
Fastener Size Grade
lbf·ft (N·m)
1/2–13 * 5 64 (87)

31.10 Bumpers
Installation
1,2 3
1,2
1,2 5 4
1,2
08/19/93 f310362
IMPORTANT: Tighten hexbolts 35 lbf·ft (47 N·m).
A. Centerline
1. 1/2–13 Hexbolt (8 qty.) 3. 16-Inch Bumper 5. 8.5-Inch Bumper
2. 1/2-Inch Washer (8 qty.) 4. Spacer (2 qty.)
Fig. 1, COE 8.5-Inch and 16-Inch Bumper Installations

Bumpers 31.10
Installation
1,2
1,2
08/19/93 f310363
NOTE: Driver’s side shown; bumper is symmetrical

A. Centerline
1. 1/2–13 Hexbolts, Grade 5 (8 2. 1/2-Inch Washers 3. Bumper Bracket
qty.)
Fig. 2, FLD Conventional, Axle Forward

31.10 Bumpers
Installation
1, 2, 3
4, 5, 6
1, 2
4, 5
6
4, 5, 6
08/19/93 f310364
NOTE: Driver’s side shown; bumper is symmetrical.
A. Centerline
1. 1/2–13 Hexbolt, Grade 5 (2 qty.) 3. 1/2–13 Hexnut, Grade 5 (2 qty.) 5. 5/8-Inch Washer (4 qty.)
2. 1/2-Inch Washer (2 qty.) 4. 5/8–11 Hexbolt, Grade 5 (4 qty.) 6. 5/8–11 Hexnut, Grade 5 (4 qty.)
Fig. 3, FLD Conventional, Setback Axle; with Tow Eyes

Bumpers 31.10
Installation
4
5,6
7
A 1,2,3,
7
1,2,3,
4 5,6
08/19/93 f310365
A. Centerline
1. 5/8–11 Hexbolt, Grade 5 (8 qty.) 4. Bumper Bracket (2 qty.) 6. 1/2–13 Hexbolt, Grade 5 (2 qty.)
2. 5/8-Inch Washer (8 qty.) 5. 1/2–13 Hexnut, Grade 5 (2 qty.) 7. Tow Hook
3. 5/8–11 Hexnut, Grade 5 (8 qty.)
Fig. 4, FLD Conventional, Extended Straight Rail; Setback Axle

31.10 Bumpers
Installation
5, 6, 7
3
1, 2
A
1, 2 3
6, 7
08/19/93 f310366
A. Centerline
1. 1/2–13 Hexbolt, 2" Long; Grade 3. Spacer (2 qty.) 6. 1/2–13 Hexbolt, 1-1/2 " Long;
5 (4 qty.) 4. Bumper Bracket Grade 5 (2 qty.)
2. 1/2-Inch Washer (4 qty.) 5. 1/2–13 Hexnut, Grade 5 (2 qty.) 7. 1/2-Inch Washer (2 qty.)
Fig. 5, FLD 120 Conventional, Severe Duty; Setback Axle

Bumpers 31.10
Installation
A
1,2
1,2 1,2
08/19/93 f310367
A. Centerline
1. 1/2–13 Hexbolt, Grade 5 (4 qty.) 2. 1/2-Inch Washer (4 qty.) 3. Weldnuts (4 qty.)
Fig. 6, FLD 112 Conventional, Setback Axle

Bumpers 31.10
Installation, FLD Classic and Classic XL
Removal 2. Install the fasteners attaching the two bumper

struts to the lower edge of the bumper. See
Fig. 2. Don’t tighten the strut mounting bolts
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes and
completely.
chock the front tires.
2. Remove the fasteners (strut mounting bolt and NOTE: Installing the strut fasteners first allows
3/8-inch flatwasher) attaching the bumper to the the bumper to set up better and makes the
lower end of each bumper strut. See Fig. 1. alignment of the frame mounting capscrews
1
3
4
6
5 7
4
10/30/2002 5 f880618
1. Bumper 5. Strut Mounting Bolt, 3/8–16
2. Bumper Strut 6. Flatwasher, 1-1/16"
3. Frame Extension 7. Frame Mounting Capscrew, 1/2–13
4. Flatwasher, 3/8"
Fig. 1, FLD Classic and Classic XL Bumper
3. Remove the fasteners (frame mounting capscrew easier.

and 1-1/16 inch flatwasher) attaching the bumper
3. Using a frame mounting capscrew as a guide,
to the frame extension.
align the mounting fastener holes in the bumper
4. Remove the bumper from the vehicle. with those in the frame extension. See Fig. 3.
4. Install the fasteners that attach the bumper to the
Installation frame extension. Don’t tighten the frame mount-
ing capscrews completely.
1. Position the bumper on the frame extension so
that the holes in the bumper line up with those in
the struts.

31.10 Bumpers
Installation, FLD Classic and Classic XL
1
10/30/2002 f880619
1. Strut Mounting Bolt 3. Bumper

2. Flatwasher, 3/8"
Fig. 2, Installing the Strut Mounting Bolts
1 2
3
10/30/2002 f880620
1. Frame Mounting Capscrew
2. Flatwasher, 1-1/16"
3. Bumper
Fig. 3, Installing the Frame Mounting Capscrews
5. With the bumper correctly aligned, tighten the

1/2–13 frame mounting capscrews 64 lbf·ft (87
N·m) and the 3/8–16 strut mounting bolts 26 lbf·ft
(36 N·m).
6. Remove the chocks from the front tires.

Trailer Coupling, Premier 260 and 460 31.11
General Information
General Information
2
The Premier models 260 and 460 trailer couplings (
Fig. 1) are air adjusted. When they are in use, an air 1
chamber and push rod at the rear of the coupling (
see Fig. 2) reduce any slack between the coupling
and the drawbar eye of the trailer. This provides
smoother towing and reduces wear on the parts.
The design of the 260 and 460 models is the same; 3
the 460 is a heavy-duty version of the 260.
01/25/96 f310385
1. Push Rod 3. Adapter Bracket

2. Air Chamber
Fig. 2
2
01/26/96 f310386
1. Model 260 2. Model 460
Fig. 1

Pintle Hook Inspection
Check the pintle hook for damage or stress cracks,

then check it for wear on its lower inside surface.
See Fig. 1. Use Premier wear gauge 14011 (
see Fig. 2) to check the percentage of wear on the
pintle hook.
If the pintle hook is damaged, or if it’s worn beyond
20% of its original diameter, replace the entire cou-
pling; it is not repairable.
01/25/96 f310388
1. Wear Surface
Fig. 1
0% 2.00
WEAR
18%
WEAR 1.64
20% 1.60
WEAR
OUT OF SERVICE
PREMIER MFG. CO.
2"
05/21/93 f580043
Fig. 2

Check the pintle hook for wear on its lower inside

surface. See Subject 100 for wear checking instruc- 6 6
tions. 7 8
5 5
4 4
9
Disassembly 3 3
10
11
CAUTION
CAUTION: If the pintle hook is damaged, has 12
stress cracks, or if it’s worn beyond 20% of its
original diameter, replace the entire coupling; 1 1
don’t repair it. 2 13 2
14
WARNING 01/26/96 f310389
1. Shoe Spring 8. Pawl Spring

WARNING: When disassembling the trailer cou- 2. Pintle Hook/Coupling 9. Pawl Bolt
pling, wear safety glasses. Some of the parts are Body 10. Latch Bolt
under tension (such as springs), and could fly 3. Latch 11. Latch-Bolt Nut
out, possibly causing eye injury. 4. Pawl 12. Shoe
5. Pawl Wedge 13. Shoe Nut
1. Remove the coupling from the vehicle; then put it 6. Pawl Lock 14. Shoe Bolt
on its side, with the pawl-, latch-, and shoe-bolt 7. Pawl-Bolt Nut
nuts facing up. Fig. 1, Model 260 Shown
2. Remove the pawl-bolt nut and pawl bolt (
2. Put the coupling body on the workbench with the
see Fig. 1, Refs. 7 and 9, and Fig. 2, Refs. 12
mounting surface down, and the bottom of the
and 4); then remove the pawl assembly from the
body facing you.
coupling body.
3. Install the shoe, then the shoe bolt and nut (
3. Disassemble the pawl. See Fig. 3.
Fig. 1, Refs. 12, 14, and 13) in the bottom of the
3.1 Remove the pawl lock and spring (Refs. 2 coupling body.
and 1).
4. Install the shoe spring (Ref. 1) in the recess in-
3.2 Remove the two nylon bushings (Ref. 6), side the coupling body.
then the pawl wedges and compression
5. Install the pawl bolt (Ref. 9) part way into the left
spring (Refs. 4 and 5).
side of the coupling body; then put the pawl
4. Remove the latch nut and bolt ( Fig. 1, Refs. 11 spring over the end of the bolt. Make sure the
and 10); then remove the latch (Ref. 3). tang on the spring is pointing inboard.
5. Remove the shoe nut and bolt (Refs. 13 and 14). 6. Install the pawl lock ( Fig. 2, Ref. 16) in the body
so the spring tang hooks onto the lip of the pawl
6. From the bottom of the coupling body, compress lock. See Fig. 3.
the shoe spring (Ref. 1), then remove the shoe
(Ref. 12) from the coupling body. 7. Install new nylon bushings in the pawl, then in-
stall the compression spring and wedges in the
pawl.
Assembly
8. While compressing the pawl wedges, install the
1. Check for wear on all the parts that aren’t in- pawl assembly in the pawl lock and the coupling
cluded in the new parts kit. Replace them if body, aligning the holes of the pawl and pawl
needed. lock with the pawl bolt.

31.11 Trailer Coupling, Premier 260 and 460
14 15
13
1
2 4 16
3 17
2 12
5
13
9
11
10
8
05/25/93 f310392
1. Pawl Bolt 7. Shoe 13. Pawl Wedge
2. Nylon Bushing 8. Shoe Spring 14. Pawl
3. Latch 9. Pintle Hook/Coupling Body 15. Pawl Spring
4. Pawl Bolt 10. Shoe-Bolt Nut 16. Pawl Lock
5. Spacer 11. Latch-Bolt Nut 17. Compression Spring
6. Shoe Bolt 12. Pawl Bolt Nut
Fig. 2
9. Push the pawl bolt through the holes of the pawl 12. Install the nuts on the pawl bolt, latch bolt, and
lock and the pawl just far enough to hold them in shoe bolt. Tighten them snugly.
place, then install the spacer ( Fig. 2, Ref. 5)
13. Lubricate all the moving parts—but not the pintle
onto the end of the pawl bolt.
hook—with a light penetrating oil. Open and
10. Push the pawl bolt all the way through the right close the latch several times to distribute the oil.
side of the coupling body.
14. Install the coupling on the vehicle. Tighten the
11. Raise the pawl assembly (push it away from fasteners 320 lbf·ft (434 N·m).
you), then slide the latch ( Fig. 1, Ref. 3) into the
body, below the pawl assembly.
Install the latch bolt.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Don’t overtighten the pawl-, latch-, and
shoe-bolt nuts. To do so may cause the parts to
bind, which could result in unnecessary wear on
the latch assembly.

A 2
3
1
6 4
5
05/25/93 f310390
A. Spring tang hooks here.

1. Pawl Spring 4. Pawl Wedge
2. Pawl Lock 5. Compression Spring
3. Pawl 6. Nylon Bushing
Fig. 3

Trailer Coupling, Premier 690 31.12
General Information
General Information
The Premier model 690 trailer coupling ( see Fig. 1)
is a non-air adjusted, heavy-duty coupling. It is used
for load capacities up to 90,000 lbs, and is available
with either right- or left-hand operation.
05/21/93 f310387
Fig. 1


7 8
1. Remove the coupling from the vehicle.
2. Remove the pintle-hook nut and bolt (Refs. 10 9
and 7), then remove the pintle hook (Ref. 8) from
the coupling body (Ref. 6). 6
3. With the handle pushed in, remove the nut (Ref. 5
2) from the end of the handle.
4. Remove the bushing (Ref. 1), then the handle 10
4
(Ref. 9) from the body.
5. From the bottom of the coupling body, remove
the small pawl spring (Ref. 4), then the pawl and
the large pawl spring (Refs. 3 and 5). Discard 3 2 1
the two springs. 02/03/94 f310396
6. Remove and discard the locking pin assembly 1. Pintle Hook 6. Small Pawl Spring
(Fig. 2, Ref. 2) from the coupling body. 2. Locking Pin 7. Pawl
Assembly 8. Large Pawl Spring
3. Nut 9. Pintle-Hook Bolt
4. Bushing 10. Pintle-Hook Nut
1 2 9 5. Handle
Fig. 2
3
4 3. Place a new large spring on the pawl, so that
one leg of the spring fits into the groove in the
5
pawl. See Fig. 4
8 8 1
6 10
7
01/25/96 f310391
1. Bushing 6. Coupling Body
2. Nut 7. Pintle-Hook Bolt
3. Large Pawl Spring 8. Pintle Hook
4. Small Pawl Spring 9. Handle
5. Pawl 10. Pintle-Hook Nut
Fig. 1
2
Assembly (See Fig. 2)
1. Check for wear on any parts that aren’t included
in the new parts kit. Replace them if needed.
2. Put the coupling body on its face, with the
01/28/94 f310393
mounting surface up and the bottom of the cou-
pling body toward you. See Fig. 3 1. Mounting Surface 2. Bottom Surface
Fig. 3

31.12 Trailer Coupling, Premier 690
taper of the handle matches the taper of the hole

1 in the pawl, and that the handle locks into place.
6. Install the bushing over the threaded end of the
handle, then install the nut.
7. Turn the handle toward yourself, then—from the
bottom of the coupling body—install the small
pawl spring (Fig. 2, Ref. 6) in the depression on
2 the pawl. See Fig. 5. Make sure the other end of
the spring fits into the depression inside the cou-
pling body.
8. Rotate the pawl up and lock it into position by
3 turning the handle away from you, then pushing
it in.
05/25/93 f310394
CAUTION
1. Large Pawl Spring 3. Pawl
2. Groove CAUTION: Don’t overtighten the nuts for the
pintle hook and the handle. To do so may cause
Fig. 4 the parts to bind, which could result in unneces-
sary wear on the coupling.
4. Install the pawl and spring in the bottom of the
coupling body, with the spring to your left. See 9. Set the coupling body on its mounting surface,
Fig. 5. Make sure the other leg of the spring sits then install the new pintle hook, bolt, and nut.
in the slot inside the body. Tighten the nuts on the pintle hook bolt and the
handle snugly.
10. Install the new locking pin assembly (Fig. 2, Ref.
1 2). on the top of the coupling body.
2
11. Lubricate all the moving parts with light penetrat-
3 ing oil. Don’t lubricate the wear surface of the
pintle hook. Open and close the pintle hook sev-
eral times to distribute the oil.
A
12. Install the coupling on the vehicle. Tighten the
mounting bolts 320 lbf·ft (434 N·m).
05/26/93 f310395
A. Install small pawl spring in here.

B. Bottom of Coupling Body
1. Large Pawl Spring 3. Mounting Surface
2. Pawl
Fig. 5
5. Install the handle (Fig. 2, Ref. 5) into the cou-

pling body and the pawl (Ref. 7). Make sure the

Inspection
With the 690 coupling in the closed position, pull out-
ward on the 692 pintle:
• The measured gap between the top of the 692
pintle and the adjacent face of the 690 cou-
pling body must be less than 3/8 inch (9.52 1
mm). See Fig. 1.
• A 3/8 inch (9.52 mm) or greater gap indicates
that the coupling is no longer suitable for ser-
vice. A repair kit will be necessary to return the
coupling to service, or a new 690 coupling may
be installed.
A B
4 01/25/96 f310511
1. Wear Surface
C
Fig. 2, Wear Checking
1
5 0% 2.12
2 WEAR
3 6
18%
06/30/2010 f311116 WEAR 1.74
A. Left Side, Open Position 20% 1.70

B. Right Side, Closed Position WEAR
C. 3/8 inch (9.52 mm) or less
1. 692 Pintle 4. 691 Release Handle OUT OF SERVICE
PREMIER MFG. CO.
2. 297 Locknut 5. Bolt Stop
3. 295Z-87 Snap Ring 6. 294 Bolt 2 1/8"
Fig. 1, 690 Coupling
Using Premier wear gauge, part number 14014,

check the percentage of wear on the pintle hook.
12/15/95 f580129
WARNING Fig. 3, Wear Gauge

WARNING: If the pintle hook is damaged, has
stress cracks, or if it’s worn beyond 20% of its
original diameter, replace the entire coupling;
don’t repair it. Using a worn or damaged trailer
coulpling could cause the trailer to disconnect
from the vehicle, which could result in an acci-
dent causing serious personal injury and prop-
erty damage.

294 Bolt Replacement
NOTE: Before performing the 294 bolt replace- 6. Thoroughly clean the 690 coupling body holes
ment procedure, first verify that the 690 coupling where the 294 bolt was inserted, as well as the
is not in need of a complete repair kit. Perform interior surfaces of the 690 coupling body. Clean
the inspection procedure in Subject 100. the hole and all surfaces of the 692 pintle.
7. On each side of the coupling body, measure the
Bolt Replacement hole diameters where the 294 bolt was inserted.
If a hole diameter exceeds 1.156 inches (29.36
See Table 1 for new parts required. Parts can be mm) the coupling body is considered out-of-
ordered from Premier Manufacturing Company at: service and must be replaced.
(800) 255-5387 or (503) 234-9202. 8. Inspect the holes around the 691 release handle
for wear. If there is a gap of 1/32-inch (0.79 mm)
Part or greater between the 691 handle shaft and
Description Qty. hole circumference, remove the handle assem-
Number
Bolt 294 1
bly, then measure the hole diameters. If a hole
diameter exceeds 1.30 inches (33.02 mm), the
Locknut 297 1 coupling is to be considered out-of-service and
Table 1, Parts Required must be replaced.
9. Test fit the 294 bolt by inserting it from the right
1. Place the 690 coupling into the OPEN position side through the holes of the 690 coupling body,
as shown in Fig. 1. without the 692 pintle in place. Make certain that
the new 294 bolt head is flush with the outer 690
A B coupling body side wall.
4 If the new 294 bolt head and the 690 coupling
body are not flush, two possible causes are
C shown in Fig. 2.
• Arrow A indicates a gap between the new
294 bolt head and the 690 coupling body
caused by the hole in the 690 coupling
1 body not being chamfered. This can be
2
5 resolved by grinding a 45 degree chamfer,
3 6 no larger than 1/16 inch (1.59 mm), around
06/30/2010 f311116 the entire circumference of the 690 cou-
A. Left Side, Open Position pling body hole.
B. Right Side, Closed Position • Arrow B indicates a gap because the bolt
C. 3/8 inch (9.52 mm) or less
stop is preventing the bolt from sitting flush
1. 692 Pintle 4. 691 Release Handle to the coupling body. This can be corrected
2. 297 Locknut 5. Bolt Stop by grinding or filing the bolt stop until the
3. 295Z-87 Snap Ring 6. 294 Bolt bolt head clears it.
Fig. 1, 690 Coupling 10. For final assembly, remove the 294 bolt and
apply heavy grease to the the 692 pintle hole,
2. If the bolt is an old style with a snap ring, re- the 690 coupling body holes, and the shank of
move the 295Z-87 snap ring from the end of the the new 294 bolt (do not lubricate the threads).
294 bolt, then discard it.
11. Place the 692 pintle into the 690 coupling body,
3. Remove the 297 locknut and discard it. aligning the pintle hole with the body holes. From
4. Firmly gripping the 692 pintle, slide the 294 bolt the right side, insert the new 294 bolt through the
out of the 690 coupling body. aligned holes. Clean all signs of lubrication from
the threads of the 294 bolt. Align one of the four
5. Using a hammer or file, destroy the threaded end flatheads adjacent to the bolt stop as shown in
of the 294 bolt and discard it. Fig. 1.

31.12 Trailer Coupling, Premier 690
294 Bolt Replacement
3
A
2 B
1 1
06/28/2010 f311117
A. Gap caused by 690 body hole not chamfered.
Correct by chamfering hole.
B. Gap caused by bolt stop preventing the bolt head
from seating flush to the coupling body. Correct by
grinding or filing the bolt stop until the bolt head
clears it.
1. 690 Body 3. 297 Locknut
2. 294 Bolt 4. 692 Pintle
Fig. 2, Bottom Section View
12. Securing the 294 bolt head with a wrench, thread

a new 297 locknut onto the bolt. Ensure that no
lubricant is present on the bolt threads, then
torque to 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m).
13. Open and close the 690 coupling several times,
making sure it operates smoothly and correctly.

Trailer Coupling, Holland PH–T–60–AL 31.13
General Information
General Information
The Holland model PH–60–AL–60 trailer coupling (
see Fig. 1) has a rigid-type pintle hook. It is de-
signed for trailers with a maximum gross weight of
10,000 lbs. It is mounted to the vehicle by 1/2–13
fasteners.
05/18/93 f310376
Fig. 1


Check the pintle hook for damage or stress cracks,
then check it for wear on its lower inside surface.
See Fig. 1.
If the pintle hook is damaged, or if the wear surface
is worn deeper than 1/8 inch (3 mm), replace the en-
tire coupling; it is not repairable.
02/03/94 2 f310381
1. Wear Surface 2. Pintle Hook
Fig. 1

Disassembly CAUTION
WARNING CAUTION: Don’t overtighten the latch-bolt nut. To
do so may cause the parts to bind, which result
WARNING: If the pintle hook is damaged, has in unnecessary wear on the coupling.
stress cracks, or if it’s worn beyond 1/8 inch of 2. Install the latch bolt, then the latch bolt nut (Refs.
its original diameter, replace the entire coupling; 3 and 8). Tighten the nut snugly.
don’t repair it. See Subject 100 for wear checking
information. 3. If replacing the cotter pin and chain, install them
using a new drive pin (Ref. 7).
1. Remove the coupling from the vehicle.
4. Lubricate all the moving parts—but not the pintle
2. Remove the latch-bolt nut and the latch bolt ( hook—with a light penetrating oil. Open and
Fig. 1, Refs. 8 and 3). close the latch several times to distribute the oil.
3. Remove the latch and lock assembly (Ref. 2). 5. Install the coupling on the vehicle. Tighten the
fasteners 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m).
4. If the cotter pin and chain (Refs. 6 and 5) need
replacing, remove the drive pin (Ref. 7) attaching
them to the coupling.
2
1
3
8
7
5
6
05/18/93 f310382
1. Lock 5. Cotter Pin
2. Latch and Lock 6. Chain
Assembly 7. Drive Pin
3. Latch Bolt 8. Latch-Bolt Nut
4. Pintle Hook
Fig. 1
Assembly
1. Install a new latch and lock assembly, aligning its
holes with the holes in the coupling body.
See Fig. 1.

Fifth Wheel, Holland FW8 Series 31.14
General Description (See Fig. 1)

The Holland Fleetmaster fifth wheel is used for pull- 2
ing trailers having the standard 2-inch diameter king- 3
4
pin. When installed as a stationary fifth wheel, it is
8 5
bracket-mounted to the tractor frame in a position 1
6
that best distributes the trailer load over the tractor
axles. When used as a sliding fifth wheel, it is 7
mounted to a slide bracket and plate assembly (air-
operated or manual release).
1 02/06/96 f310518
1. Release Handle 5. Locking Plunger
2. Release Arm 6. Adjusting Wedge
3. Cam Arm 7. Hinged Lock
4. Plunger Spring 8. Lock Pin
Fig. 2, Fifth Wheel in Locked Position

6
5
4
3 2
02/06/96 f310519 3
4
1. Air Cylinder 4. Slide Plate
2. Top Plate 5. Release Handle 5
1 8
3. Outboard Mounting 6. Track 6
Plate
Fig. 1, Holland Fleetmaster Fifth Wheel Assembly 7
The fifth wheel lock mechanism for the trailer kingpin
consists of a hinged lock, locking plunger, plunger 02/06/96 f310517
spring, cam arm, release arm, and operating rod.
The lock rotates on a lock pin during coupling and 1. Release Handle 5. Locking Plunger
2. Release Arm 6. Adjusting Wedge
uncoupling operations. During coupling the hinged
3. Cam Arm 7. Hinged Lock
lock and cam arm pivot against the kingpin and are 4. Plunger Spring 8. Lock Pin
secured by the locking plunger (See Fig. 2).
Fig. 3, Fifth Wheel in Unlocked Position
Uncoupling is accomplished by pulling the release
handle using 60–70 lbs. (27–32 kg) of force. The re-
lease arm pivots and forces the locking plunger
against the plunger spring. The hinged lock is re-
leased and the trailer kingpin can be removed (See
Fig. 3).


10 9
6 11
WARNING 9
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- 8
building must be done only by a qualified me- 7 10 12
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could 5 9
result in a hazardous operating condition due to 8 13
possible disengagement of the trailer from the 4 14
tractor.
3 15
goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
ure to do so can result in personal injury, due to 2 16
11
1. Steam clean the top plate. Remove the cotter

pins from the bracket pins. Remove the bracket
pins. Discard the cotter pins and remove the top
plate. 17
2. Using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth wheel off 11 18
the mount and tractor frame. 1
19
Disassembly (See Fig. 1) 21
20
02/07/96 f310521
WARNING NOTE: Bottom view shown.

1. Hex Head Capscrew 12. Release Handle
Do not attempt repair or rebuilding if the top 2. Spring 13. Extension Spring
plate is cracked or distorted or if the lock pin is 3. Adjusting Wedge 14. Cam Arm
sloppy in the top plate. These conditions could 4. Locking Nut 15. Hinged Lock
result in top plate failure or malfunction of the 5. Locking Plunger 16. Lock Pin
locks. 6. Plunger Spring 17. Grease Fitting
7. Release Arm 18. Locknut
NOTE: While disassembling the fifth wheel, 8. Roller 19. Bracket Pin
check it for cracks and for missing or damaged 9. Washer 20. Hex Head Capscrew
10. Torx Screw 21. Top Plate
parts. 11. Cotter Pin
2. Pull the release handle out, slide it forward and
Fig. 1, Fifth Wheel Assembly Components (with left-
hook the handle to the unlock notch of the cast- hand release)
ing.
3. With the plunger in the unlocked position, re- NOTE: It may be necessary to fabricate a
move and discard the cotter pin. Remove the wedge to hold the plunger in the unlocked posi-
lock pin. tion during the disassembly and assembly pro-
cedure.
4. Slide the hinged lock away from the locking
plunger and remove it from the top plate. 5. Insert the fabricated wedge, see Fig. 2.
6. Pull the release handle and slide it rearward to
unhook it from the notch in the casting.

31.14 Fifth Wheel, Holland FW8 Series
A
D
C
B
02/06/96 f310520
A. 0.3 inch (7.6 mm)
B. 8 inches (203.2 mm)
C. 1.5 inches (38.1 mm)
D. 3 inches (76.2 mm)
E. 2.5 inches (63.5 mm)
Fig. 2, Fabricated Wedge Dimensions

7. Remove the cotter pin and washer. Discard the
cotter pin. Disconnect and pull the release
handle away from the release arm.
8. Remove the release arm Torx screw, washer,
and roller. Remove the release arm.
9. Slowly remove the fabricated wedge. Guide the
locking plunger from the left throat of the fifth
wheel to the right throat. Pull the plunger out of
the right throat of the fifth wheel. Remove the
plunger spring and adjusting wedge.
10. Remove the Torx screw, washer, and roller. Re-
move the cam arm.
11. Remove the extension spring and the release
handle.
12. Remove the grease fittings.

Assembly (See Fig. 1) result in a hazardous operating condition due to

possible disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor.
9 Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
10
6 11 goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
9 ure to do so can result in personal injury, due to
8 parts ejecting with force.
7 10 12
IMPORTANT: When rebuilding use only Holland
5 9
rebuilding kits. Replace all roll pins, cotter pins,
8 13
springs, bolts, nuts, and washers. Inspect the
4 14 rebuild kit to verify that all parts are present.
3 15
IMPORTANT: Check the lock pin holes. If the
holes are elongated the top plate must be re-
2 16
11 placed. Replace any parts that show signs of
wear, damage, or deterioration. Brackets,
bracket bushings, bracket pins, and bracket
shoes should be replaced in pairs.
1. Clean all moving parts with no. 2 diesel fuel be-
17 fore assembly.
11 18 2. Replace the grease fittings.
1
3. Apply a thin film of multipurpose chassis grease
19 to the release arm, release arm roller, hinged
lock, lock pin, cam arm and roller, adjusting
21
20 wedge, and locking plunger.
02/07/96 f310521
4. Install a 5/8-inch capscrew through the hole in
the right side of the throat of the fifth wheel.
NOTE: Bottom view shown.
1. Capscrew 12. Release Handle 5. Slide the wedge spring, and wedge over the cap-
2. Spring 13. Extension Spring screw. Thread a 5/8-inch locknut onto the cap-
3. Adjusting Wedge 14. Cam Arm screw. Hand tighten the locknut.
4. Locking Nut 15. Hinged Lock
5. Locking Plunger 16. Lock Pin
6. Install the plunger through the opening in the
6. Plunger Spring 17. Grease Fitting right throat of the fifth wheel, through the left
7. Release Arm 18. Locknut throat, into the plunger spring, and through the
8. Roller 19. Bracket Pin hole in the rib of the casting. See Fig. 2.
9. Washer 20. Capscrew
10. Torx Screw 21. Top Plate
7. Compress the plunger spring by inserting the
11. Cotter Pin fabricated block into the throat until the plunger
is flush with the throat of the casting. See Fig. 3.
Fig. 1, Fifth Wheel Assembly Components (with left-
hand release) 8. Insert the cam arm tail into the pocket in the
plunger. Align the cam arm hole with the bolt
hole in the casting. See Fig. 4.
WARNING
9. Install the roller, washer (rounded edge towards
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- the roller), and torx bolt. Tighten the torx bolt 85
building must be done only by a qualified me- to 120 lbf·ft (115 to 163 N·m).
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could 10. Insert the tapered end of the release arm
through the main rib of the casting into the

1 2 3
1 4
2 4
3
02/08/96 f310523 02/08/96 f310525
1. Plunger Spring 3. Right Throat 1. Cam Arm 3. Torx Screw

2. Left Throat 4. Locking Plunger 2. Washer 4. Locking Plunger
Fig. 2, Plunger Installation Fig. 4, Cam Arm Installation

side) release (see Fig. 5) do not require a roller,
washer, and torx bolt to install the release arm.
11. Install the roller, washer (rounded edge towards
the roller), and torx bolt. Tighten the torx bolt 85
to 120 lbf·ft (115 to 163 N·m).
1 2
3
1
2
3
02/08/96 f310524
1. Plunger Spring 3. Fabricated Wedge

2. Locking Plunger
Fig. 3, Inserting Fabricated Wedge

plunger. The tapered end of the release arm
must face down next to the cam arm. Align the 09/09/96 f310543
release arm hole with the bolt hole in the casting. 1. Release Handle 3. Release Handle
The following step applies only to fifth wheels 2. Main Rib Spring
equipped with a left-hand (road side) release. Fig. 5, Right-Hand (curb-side) Release
Fifth wheels equipped with a right-hand (curb-
12. Feed the release handle through the hole in the
casting, through the closed end of the release

handle spring, and up through the bottom of the

release arm.
13. Install the washer and cotter pin.
14. Lubricate the release handle spring contact ar-
eas with a light grease. Attach the release
handle spring to the casting ear.
15. Pull the release handle and hook it on the unlock
notch of the casting.
16. Remove the fabricated block. Keep hands and
fingers clear.
17. Grease the lock pin hole and the lock contact
areas. Slide the hinged lock through the opening
in the right-hand side of the throat of the fifth
wheel. Align the lock pin hole with the hole in the
casting.
18. Slide the lock pin through the casting from the
face of the top plate through the lock, then
through the bottom of the casting. Install a cotter
pin.
19. Unhook the release handle from the notch in the
casting.
Installation
NOTE: Before remounting the top plate, inspect
the rubber bushings and bracket pins for wear.
Replace as necessary. If bushing replacement is
required, be sure to use the correct diameter
bushing.
on the sliding or stationary mount brackets.
Clamp the fifth wheel in place to compress the
bracket rubbers.
2. Insert the bracket pins and new cotter pins. Lock
the cotter pins.

Lock Adjustment
Lock Adjustment
1. Open the hinged lock by pulling the release
handle and putting pressure against the hinged
lock, moving it towards the open position.
2. Close the fifth wheel using a Holland lock tester.
Tighten the adjustment bolt while attempting to
rotate the lock tester back and forth.
3. Slowly tighten the bolt until the lock tester just
stops rotating. Loosen the adjustment bolt two
full turns.
4. Verify proper operation by locking and unlocking
the fifth wheel several times using the tester.
WARNING
If the fifth wheel top plate does not operate prop-
erly, do not use it. An improperly functioning fifth
wheel could cause loss of vehicle or trailer con-
trol, resulting in personal injury. Repeat the
above procedure or call your local Holland repre-
sentative for assistance.

Secondary Lock Installation
Secondary Lock Installation inch washer, and up through the bottom of the
loop on the secondary lock arm.
1. Using the Holland lock tester, close the fifth 7. Compress the release handle spring and secure
wheel lock. (See Fig. 1). the release handle using a cotter pin. Lock the
cotter pin.
2
8. Check the secondary release handle for proper
operation.
7
1
6
4
3
5
02/08/96 f310522
NOTE: Bottom view shown.
1. Top Plate 5. Secondary Lock Pin
2. Secondary Lock Arm 6. Spring
3. Cotter Pin 7. 7/16-inch Washer
4. Secondary Lock
Release Handle
Fig. 1, Optional Secondary Lock Assembly

2. Lubricate the secondary lock arm pin hole with
Never Seez grease.
3. Slide the lock arm into the right side of the cast-
ing with the lock arm ear facing the outside of
the casting.
4. Align the pin holes of the secondary lock arm
and the casting. Drive the lock pin through the
casting from the top plate, through the secondary
lock. Install the cotter pin through the secondary
lock.
5. Install a 45-degree lube fitting into the secondary
lock pin.
6. Grasp the secondary lock handle handhold, and
slide the other end of the handle through the rib
of the casting, through the 7/16-inch washer,
through the handle spring, through another 7/16-

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
Problem—Hard to Hook Up the Fifth Wheel to the Trailer
Problem—Hard to Hook Up the Fifth
Wheel to the Trailer
The trailer may be too high; the kingpin is Lower the trailer landing gear until the trailer plate contacts the fifth wheel.
not entering the lock correctly.
A bent kingpin or damaged trailer plate is Check the kingpin and trailer plate. Replace parts as needed.
interfering with the hinged lock movement.
The hinged lock has not been adjusted Check the clearance between the lock and the kingpin. Adjust as described in
correctly. this section.
Attempting to couple too quickly. Pick up the trailer with the fifth wheel. Stop. Continue backing up until the fifth
wheel locks firmly to the kingpin. Stopping helps prevent hitting the kingpin too
hard.
The locks are closed. Pull the release handle. Hook the handle on the notch in the casting and pry
the hinged lock open.
Accumulated rust or grime is interfering Spray a light lubricant or diesel fuel on all moving parts, including the release
with lock operation. handle. Operate the unit several times.
The locks are damaged. Inspect and replace components as described in this section.
The fifth wheel requires rebuilding. Follow the procedures contained in this section using the appropriate
rebuilding kit.
Using a lube plate with the wrong kingpin See Holland Service Bulletins 4 and 4A.
length.
Problem—Hard to Unhook the Fifth Wheel from the Trailer

Problem—Hard to Unhook the Fifth
Wheel from the Trailer
The tractor is putting pressure against the Back the tractor up a little to relieve kingpin load against the fifth wheel lock.
locks. Lock the tractor brakes before pulling the release handle and hooking it on the
notch in the top of the plate casting.
The optional secondary lock (if equipped) Pull out the secondary release handle and move it forward to secure it on the
is not released. top plate casting.
The release handle will not stay out or Follow the procedures contained in this section using the appropriate
must be held out when unlocking. rebuilding kit.
The primary release handle is not pulled Slide the primary release handle out and pull it forward. Slide the handle
out completely and locked on the notch in forward, hooking it on the notch on the top plate casting.
the casting.
Rust or grime is on the locking Spray a light lubricant or diesel fuel on all moving parts including the release
mechanism. handle. Operate the unit several times.
Bent kingpin or damaged bolster plate. Check the kingpin with a Holland TF–0110 Kingpin Gage and bolster plate
with a 48 inch straightedge. Repair or replace as required.
Fifth wheel locks are adjusted too tight. Check the clearance between the lock and the kingpin. Adjust as described in
this section.

Troubleshooting
NOTE: After the fifth wheel is unlocked and

moves freely from the kingpin, it is normal for
the release handle to disengage from the notch
in the casting to return to a position between
locked and unlocked.

Fifth Wheel Control Mechanism, ASF Touchloc™ 31.15
General Description (See Fig. 1) moves away from the trailer, the trailer kingpin auto-
matically opens the locking mechanism jaw.
2 4
5
3
1
9 7
8
10/17/96 f310544
1. Housing Weldment 6. Lever Bar
2. Air Cylinder 7. Lock Spring
3. Extension Spring 8. Lock
4. Slide Cam 9. Locking Mechanism
5. Operating Rod Jaw
Fig. 1, Touchloc Control Mechanism

The Touchloc™ air-operated latch consists of an air
cylinder, an extension spring, a housing weldment, a
slide cam, an operating rod, and a safety latch. An
inversion valve and an air control valve direct air
(pneumatic) pressure through air lines to the air-
operated latch.
Principles of Operation (See Fig. 1)

The fifth wheel lock can be operated manually using
the operating rod, or by using an air cylinder re-
motely controlled from the cab. For remote operation,
tractor air pressure must be between 90 and 120 psi
(620 and 827 kPa). With the parking brake set, the
cab air control valve knob is pulled (the parking
brake must be set to activate the air-operated latch).
An inversion valve forces air through the air lines to
the air cylinder. The air cylinder extends, pushing the
slide cam against the lever bar. The lever bar is
forced back, pushing the lock against the lock spring,
releasing the locking mechanism jaw. As the tractor

Air Control Mechanism Removal and Installation
Removal (See Fig. 1) 5. Remove the operating rod cotter. Slide the lever
bar forward, lift and disconnect it from the oper-
ating rod. Remove the operating rod.
5 6 7 8 6. Disconnect the air line from the air cylinder sup-
4
3 9
2 10 11 12 ply port.
1 7. Remove the air cylinder yoke cotter pin and the
pin. Discard the cotter pin.
8. Unbolt the rear of the air cylinder from the rear
housing weldment. Remove the air cylinder.
16
IMPORTANT: Before installation, steam clean
15
the fifth wheel in the area where the air mecha-
nism is to be mounted.
14 13
1. Insert the new operating rod through the slot into
the lever bar and install a new cotter pin in the
operating rod.
2. Slide the lever bar back into the lock assembly.
10/17/96 f310545
Install the cover plate, the lever bar pin and a
new lever bar cotter pin.
1. Housing Weldment 11. Safety Indicator
2. Grade 8 Bolt and Nut 12. Operating Rod 3. Install the safety latch and the safety latch pin.
3. NPT Inlet 13. Lever Bar Pin Secure the safety latch with a new cotter pin.
4. Air Cylinder 14. Lever Bar Pin Cotter
5. Yoke 15. Lever Bar 4. Place the Touchloc unit in position with the pre-
6. Yoke Pin Cotter 16. Grade 8 Bolt, drilled flat mounting plate (see Fig. 2) flat against
7. Yoke Pin Washers and the plate casting transverse rib. Seat the locator
8. Slide Cam Locknut saddle on the longitudinal rib and the support/
9. Operating Rod Pin mounting stud on the plate casting.
10. Operating Rod Pin
Cotter
Fig. 1, Touchloc™ Control Mechanism 1
1. Put the fifth wheel in the locked position using

the bar or block.
WARNING
3
WARNING: The lock is spring loaded. Keep
hands away to avoid injury. Stand clear, as the 5
operating rod retracts rapidly during lockup. 2
4
2. Remove the safety latch cotter pin, and the pin.
Remove the safety latch. Discard the cotter pin. 10/17/96 f310546
1. C-Clamp 3. Flat Mounting Plate
3. Remove the lever cotter pin from the lever bar
2. Support/Mounting 4. Longitudinal Rib
pin and remove the lever bar pin. Discard the Stud 5. Locator Saddle
cotter pin.
Fig. 2, Touchloc Mounting
4. Slide the cover plate back, lift and remove it.

31.15 Fifth Wheel Control Mechanism, ASF Touchloc™
Air Control Mechanism Removal and Installation
IMPORTANT: Make sure the pre-drilled flat

mounting plate seats flat against the transverse
rib. There must not be an air gap between the
mounting plate and the rib.
5. Insert two 3/8-inch Grade 8 bolts, with washers,
through the Touchloc side of the fifth wheel. In-
stall washers and locknuts on the bolt ends and
tighten.
6. Mount the air cylinder. Fully retract the yoke and
thread the jam nut to the end of the piston
threads. Secure the rear of the air cylinder to the
housing weldment rear support with a 1/2-inch
Grade 8 bolt and self-locking nut. Move the slide
cam to align the holes in the yoke and the slide
cam. Insert the pin and a new cotter pin.
7. Check the clearance between the slide cam mat-
ing surface and the air cylinder yoke. Slide cam
movement should not be restricted.
8. Inspect the Touchloc air mechanism for proper
installation. Connect the air line to the air cylin-
der fitting and test the unit using the instructions
in Section 110.

Air System Operational Checks
Air System Operational 3. Observe the common control and supply line
gauge. Exhaust should occur at 60 psi (414
Checks (See Fig. 1) kPa). If it does not, rebuild or replace as neces-
sary.
4 4. With the valve pressurized, apply a soap solution
to the exterior of the valve, and observe for air
leakage (bubbling). Slight bubbling is permitted.
3 However, excessive leakage indicates a faulty
O-ring, or inlet valve, or a crack.
2 5. Observe the delivery port gauge while slowly de-
creasing pressure in the control cavity. Delivery
should occur at 45 psi (310 kPa). If it does not,
rebuild or replace as necessary.
Air Control Valve

5
1. Install a test gauge in the delivery port. Gradually
apply air pressure to the supply port. Pull the
1
valve knob and observe the gauge. The gauge
should indicate air pressure equivalent to the
6 pressure applied at the supply port. If it does not,
09/10/96 f310547
rebuild or replace as necessary.
1. Cab Auxiliary Air 5. To #12 Port of Air 2. With the valve pressurized, apply a soap solution
Junction Block Junction Box to the exterior of the valve and observe for air
2. Dash-Mounted 6. To Touchloc Air leakage (bubbling). Slight bubbling is permitted.
Parking Brake Valve Cylinder on Fifth However, excessive leakage indicates a faulty
3. Inversion Valve Wheel O-ring, or a crack.
4. Air Control Valve
3. With the valve pressurized, depress the knob,
Fig. 1, Touchloc Plumbing Schematic and observe the gauge at the delivery port. Air
pressure should rapidly exit the exhaust port and
IMPORTANT: Before performing the inversion
the gauge reading should decrease to zero. If it
valve and air control valve checks, visually in- does not, rebuild or replace as necessary.
spect the system air lines, connections, and fit-
tings. If evidence of damage, cracking, or kinks
exists, repair as necessary before continuing
with the operational check.
IMPORTANT: The following operational checks
should be performed using two gauges known
to be accurate. Depending on installation, it may
be necessary to completely remove the valve to
be tested.
Inversion Valve
1. Install one test gauge in a common control and
supply line. Install the second gauge in the deliv-
ery port.
2. Gradually apply pressure to the common control
and supply line.

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
NOTE: Visually inspect all air mechanism com-
ponents for damage, cracks, warpage, or bind-
ing which may cause the unit to malfunction.
Problem—Air Mechanism Does Not Release the Locking Jaw
Problem—Air Mechanism Does Not Release the Locking Jaw
The slide cam is damaged or warped. Replace the slide cam as needed.
The slide cam track lacks lubrication. Spray the slide cam, track, and inside of the rectangular slide cam housing
with light oil, silicone, or equivalent.
The air cylinder has failed. Check for proper air pressure at the air cylinder. If air pressure is 90 to 120
psi (620 to 827 kPa), replace the air cylinder as necessary. If air pressure is
below 90 psi (620 kPa), refer to Subject 110.
Problem—Air Mechanism Does Not Lock The Hinged Lock

Problem—Air Mechanism Does Not Lock The Hinged Lock
The extension spring has failed. Inspect the extension spring for rust deterioration, over extension, and proper
installation. Repair or replace as necessary.
Air cylinder is binding. Remove the air cylinder and manually extend and retract the cylinder. Any
binding of the piston requires reconditioning or replacement.
Cylinder air pressure will not exhaust. Check for foreign material or debris in the air cylinder and the air cylinder
connecting port. Clean as necessary. If the air cylinder retracts when the air
delivery line is disconnected, refer to Subject 110.

Fifth Wheel, Fontaine® H5092 Series 31.16
General Information
General Information
Fontaine H5092 series fifth wheels couple to trailers
having the standard 2-inch kingpin. When installed
as a stationary mount, the fifth wheel is bracket-
mounted to the tractor frame in a position that best
distributes the trailer load over the tractor axles. Slid-
ing fifth wheels (Fig. 1), are mounted on the Fon-
taine HAWB or HMWS (previously called 5AWB and
5MWS) model slide mounts.
trailer kingpin consists of a spring-loaded jaw and
pulling a manual lock control handle located on either
the right side (curbside) or left side (roadside) of the
fifth wheel. Kingpin coupling occurs when the kingpin
enters the throat of the fifth wheel, triggers the jaw
and wedge to slide into place behind the kingpin, and
moves the lock control handle into the locked posi-
tion.
moved first with the spring-loaded wedge sliding in
place against the jaw. The jaw will move behind the
kingpin, followed by the wedge. The wedge rein-
forces the jaw and automatically adjusts for slack
around the kingpin. See Fig. 2 for an illustration of
the jaw and wedge in the locked position.
kingpin and unlocks the fifth wheel. See Fig. 3 for an
illustration of the jaw and wedge in the unlocked pos-
tition.

31.16 Fifth Wheel, Fontaine® H5092 Series
General Information
09/06/95 f310477
Fig. 1, Fontaine H5092 Series Air Slide Fifth Wheel
1 1
2 2
11/15/2002 f310930 11/15/2002 f310929

1. Jaw 1. Jaw
2. Wedge 2. Wedge
Fig. 2, Locked Position Fig. 3, Unlocked Position

Fifth Wheel Removal and 6. Remove the cotter pin and washer that holds the
pull handle to the operating handle. Slide the pull
Disassembly handle out through the side of the fifth wheel.
See Fig. 4.
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine H5092
7. Slide the operating handle over to the side of the
fifth wheel.
fifth wheel. Slide the bottom part first. This will
allow the handle to clear the jaw and wedge
WARNING studs on the underside and clear the timer. See
Fig. 5.
building must be done only by a qualified me- 8. Remove the timer by lifting upward. See Fig. 6.
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could 9. Slide the operating handle out through the slot in
result in disengagement of the trailer from the the rear crossmember of the fifth wheel. See
tractor, leading to personal injury or property Fig. 7.
damage.
10. Slide the bumper toward the operating handle
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety slot and to the rear of the fifth wheel until the
goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail- bumper tang clears the operating handle slot. Lift
ure to do so can result in personal injury, due to upward and remove. See Fig. 8.
1. Steam clean the top plate. Remove it from the WARNING
sliding mount by removing the cotter pins from
the retaining pins. Remove the retaining pins and The wedge spring is under extreme tension. Al-
bushing pins from both sides of the top plate. ways wear safety glasses. Do not stand directly
2. Using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth wheel off over the springs. A flying spring could cause per-
the sliding mount and tractor frame. sonal injury.
3. Turn the fifth wheel upside down. 11. Remove the cotter pins from the jaw and wedge
springs. Discard the cotter pins, and pry the
NOTE: While disassembling the fifth wheel, small hooked tail of the jaw and wedge spring up
check it for cracks and for missing or damaged over the jaw and wedge studs. Remove and dis-
parts. card both springs. See Fig. 9.
12. Remove the wedge first, and then the jaw. Dis-
WARNING card the jaw and wedge. See Fig. 10.
Do not attempt to repair or rebuild the top plate if

it is cracked or if parts are damaged. The top
plate or parts could malfunction. This could re-
sult in disengagement of the trailer during ve-
hicle travel, possibly causing personal injury and
property damage.
4. Set the fifth wheel in a locked position, then un-
hook the bumper spring from the bumper tang
and the tab on the side of the fifth wheel sub-
structure. See Fig. 2. Remove the bumper
spring.
5. Remove the two bolts on the operating handle.
See Fig. 3. Each bolt has a nut, washer, and
bushing. Discard the bushings.

13
14
10
15
1
11 12
2
3 16
9 14
4 17
18
1
1 21
19
2 22
21
3 20 23
4
25
5 21
8
6 23 26
7 24
1 6
09/18/95 f310476
1. Cotter Pin, 3/16" x 1" 11. Thread-Cutting Screw, 1/4–20 x 20. Bumper
2. Lower Bracket Retainer Pin 3/8" 21. Flatwasher
3. Grease Fitting 12. Step Jaw and Wedge 22. Bushing, 5/16", Bumper Pivot
4. Lower Bracket Pin 13. Jaw Spring 23. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13
5. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Cotter Pin, 1/4" x 3" 24. Bushing, 7/16", Handle Pivot
6. Flatwasher 15. Timer 25. Operating Handle, Side Release
7. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 16. Wedge Spring Only
8. Nut, Wedge Stop Rod 17. Pull Handle 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
9. Upper Assembly, Side Release 18. Bumper Handle Spring Handle Pivot
10. Leaf Spring 19. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
Bumper Pivot
Fig. 1, Fontaine H5092 Series Fifth Wheel (left-side release shown)

09/14/95 f310480 09/13/95 f310482

1. Bumper Spring
Fig. 4, Pull Handle Removal
Fig. 2, Bumper Spring Removal
09/14/95 f310483
1. Operating Handle
Fig. 5, Operating Handle Positioning
09/13/95 f310481
Fig. 3, Bolt Removal

09/14/95 f310484 09/14/95 f310486

1. Timer 1. Bumper
Fig. 6, Timer Removal Fig. 8, Bumper Removal
09/13/95 f310487
Fig. 9, Spring Removal

09/13/95 f310485
Fig. 7, Operating Handle Removal

09/13/95 f310488
Fig. 10, Jaw and Wedge Removal

Fifth Wheel Assembly and Installation
Assembly and Installation sert the operating handle and move it over to the
side of the wheel. See Fig. 5.
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine H5092 6. Insert the timer over the jaw and wedge studs.
fifth wheel. the small hole on the timer fits over the jaw stud
and the slotted hole fits over the wedge stud. Be
WARNING certain the small bent arm of the timer is facing
downward. See Fig. 6.
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- 7. Slide the operating handle toward the center of
building must be done only by a qualified me- the wheel to engage the handle with the studs
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could on the jaw and wedge. Slide the top part first.
result in possible disengagement of the trailer This will ensure that the grooves on the operat-
from the tractor, leading to personal injury and ing handle are aligned with the studs. A correctly
property damage. aligned operating handle should be in a vertical
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety position once it goes over the studs. See Fig. 7.
goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail- 8. Slide the pull handle in through the safety lock
ure to do so can result in personal injury, due to and using the cotter pin and washer, fasten it in
parts ejecting with force. the top hole of the operating handle. See Fig. 8.
IMPORTANT: Replace any parts that show signs 9. Align the bumper hole with the hole in the oper-
of wear, damage, or deterioration. ating handle. Replace the bolts on the operating
handle. The bolt which fastens the operating
1. Clean all moving parts with no. 2 diesel fuel be- handle to the bumper must be inserted with the
fore assembly. threads facing toward you to prevent interference
2. Always assemble the parts around a 2-inch king- with the jaw springs. The other bolt should be
pin or a shaft with a 2-inch diameter. Insert the positioned with the threads facing downward.
jaw first and then the new wedge below it. Apply Each bolt has a nut, washer, and new bushings.
a moderate amount of grease having EP (extra Apply grease to the bolt parts and where there is
pressure) additives to the sides and serrated metal to metal contact with the operating handle.
edges of the jaw and wedge. Also apply grease See Fig. 9. Do not overtighten the bolts. Lubri-
to the stationary jaw in the throat of the fifth cate all pivot points.
wheel. See Fig. 2. IMPORTANT: The fifth wheel must be well lubri-
3. Insert the new wedge spring through the slot in cated to operate correctly. Refer to Group 31 of
the rear crossmember and lay the coil over the the Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual for
spring boss. Using a spring tool, engage the complete maintenance and lubrication instruc-
small hooked tail of the wedge spring and wind it tions for the fifth wheel assembly.
around until it is directly over the small stud at
the back of the bracket. Using a hammer, nudge 10. Connect the bumper spring to its clasp. See
the spring downward allowing it to catch on the Fig. 10. Apply grease to the bracket pockets and
stud. Insert a new cotter pin. See Fig. 3. to the grease fittings on the side of the fifth
wheel until grease flows into the upper brackets.
Repeat these steps to replace the jaw spring. Also apply a liberal amount of grease to the top
NOTE: The jaw spring has minimal tension and plate.
can be replaced by hand.
4. Place the bumper back in position, sliding the
WARNING
bumper tang through the operating handle guide If the fifth wheel does not operate properly, do
slot and toward the tab on the side of the fifth not use it. The fifth wheel could malfunction, re-
wheel substructure. See Fig. 4. sulting in personal injury or property damage due
5. Apply a liberal amount of grease to the grooved to possible disengagement of the trailer from the
middle section of the operating handle, then in- tractor.

13
14
10
15
1
11 12
2
3 16
9 14
4 17
18
1
1 21
19
2 22
21
3 20 23
4
25
5 21
8
6 23 26
7 24
1 6
09/18/95 f310476
1. Cotter Pin, 3/16" x 1" 11. Thread-Cutting Screw, 1/4–20 x 20. Bumper
2. Lower Bracket Retainer Pin 3/8" 21. Flatwasher
3. Grease Fitting 12. Step Jaw and Wedge 22. Bushing, 5/16", Bumper Pivot
4. Lower Bracket Pin 13. Jaw Spring 23. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13
5. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Cotter Pin, 1/4" x 3" 24. Bushing, 7/16", Handle Pivot
6. Flatwasher 15. Timer 25. Operating Handle, Side Release
7. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 16. Wedge Spring Only
8. Nut, Wedge Stop Rod 17. Pull Handle 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
9. Upper Assembly, Side Release 18. Bumper Handle Spring Handle Pivot
10. Leaf Spring 19. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
Bumper Pivot
Fig. 1, Fontaine H5092 Series Fifth Wheel (left-side release shown)

ing pins. Install the retaining pins and the 1-inch-
long cotter pins.

09/13/95 f310488 09/14/95 f310486

1. Bumper
Fig. 2, Wedge and Jaw Installation
Fig. 4, Bumper Installation
09/13/95 f310487
Fig. 3, Spring Installation

09/13/95 f310485
Fig. 5, Operating Handle Installation

09/14/95 f310484 09/13/95 f310482

1. Timer
Fig. 8, Pull Handle Installation
Fig. 6, Timer Installation
09/14/95 f310483
1. Operating Handle
Fig. 7, Operating Handle Positioning 09/13/95 f310481
Fig. 9, Bolt Installation

09/14/95 f310480
1. Bumper Spring
Fig. 10, Spring Installation

Troubleshooting
Problem—Difficulty Coupling
The kingpin is too high to trip the latch Lower the landing gear.
The trailer plate or kingpin is damaged Check the trailer plate for flatness. Check the kingpin for squareness with the
trailer plate.
Problem—Excessive Wear on the Fifth Wheel Top Plate

Damaged trailer plate If the trailer plate is not flat, replace it.
Problem—Difficulty Uncoupling
Pressure on the locking mechanism Back up the trailer and set the brakes. Strike the wedge stop rod which
caused by the truck drifting apart from the protrudes through the side of the fifth wheel. This spring-loaded rod will
trailer putting excess pressure on the lock release the pressure on the locking mechanism.
Oval-shaped kingpin Lower the landing gear.
Debris build-up in the grease
Problem—Slack
Undersized kingpin Replace the kingpin if worn greater than 1/8 inch (3 mm) at the 2-inch (5-cm)
diameter.
Worn jaw and wedge Jaw and wedge could have excessive wear. Replace them.

Fifth Wheel, Fontaine No-Slack II 6000 and 7000 Series 31.17
General Information
General Information kingpin and unlocks the fifth wheel. See Fig. 2 for an
illustration of the jaw and wedge in the unlocked pos-
Fontaine 6000 and 7000 series fifth wheels couple to tition.
trailers having a standard 2-inch kingpin. When in-
stalled as a stationary mount, the fifth wheel is
bracket-mounted to the tractor frame in a position
that best distributes the trailer load over the tractor
axles. Sliding fifth wheels are mounted on the Fon-
taine AWB or MWS model slide mounts.
trailer kingpin consists of a spring-loaded jaw and
pulling a manual lock control handle located on either
the right side (curbside) or left side (roadside) of the
fifth wheel. Kingpin coupling occurs when the kingpin 1 2
enters the throat of the fifth wheel, triggers the jaw
and wedge to slide into place behind the kingpin, and
moves the lock control handle into the locked posi- 11/18/2002 f310932
tion.
1. Jaw 2. Wedge
moved first with the spring-loaded wedge sliding in Fig. 2, Unlocked Position
place against the jaw. The jaw will move behind the
kingpin, followed by the wedge. The wedge rein-
forces the jaw and automatically adjusts for slack
around the kingpin. See Fig. 1 for an illustration of
the jaw and wedge in the locked position.
2 1
11/18/2002 f310931
1. Jaw 2. Wedge
Fig. 1, Locked Position


Fifth Wheel Removal and

Disassembly
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine® 6000
or 7000 No-Slack II series fifth wheel.
WARNING
chanic. Improper or incomplete procedures could
result in disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor, leading to personal injury or property
damage.
goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
ure to do so can result in personal injury, due to
1. Steam clean the top plate. Remove it from the
sliding mount by removing the cotter pins from
the retaining pins. Remove the retaining pins and
bushing pins from both sides of the top plate.
2. Using an overhead hoist, lift the fifth wheel off
the sliding mount and tractor frame.
parts.
4. Remove the secondary lock spring and bumper
spring. See Fig. 2. Remove the pull-handle cot-
ter pin and washer, then slide out the pull
handle.
5. Unbolt and remove the secondary lock from the
operating handle. Discard the locknut and bush-
ing. See Fig. 3.
6. Unbolt and remove the bumper from the operat-
ing handle. Discard the locknut and bushing. See
Fig. 4.
7. Unbolt the operating handle from the pivot mount
and remove. Discard the locknut. See Fig. 5.
8. Remove the timer spring and timer. See Fig. 6.
9. Remove the jaw and wedge. See Fig. 7.

31.17 Fifth Wheel, Fontaine No-Slack II 6000 and 7000 Series
5
19 14
20 21
17
16 22
17 10
15 17
9 5
9
17
8
17
18 16
6 7
16 11
5 15 12
14 24
16
25
17 23
5 1
4 9 17
2
3 13 26
2
11/12/2002 f310927
1. Wedge Stop Rod Nut 11. Timer Spring 19. Pull Handle
2. Flatwasher, 5/8", Plain 12. Step Jaw and Wedge Set 20. Secondary Lock
3. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 13. Bushing 21. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-3/4",
4. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Bracket Retainer Pin Grade 5
5. Cotter Pin, 3/16 x 1" 15. Bracket Pin 22. Bumper
6. Bumper Spring 16. Grease Fitting 23. Operating Handle
7. Handle Spring 17. Flatwasher, 1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" 24. Timer
8. Bushing, 7/16" O.D., Plain 25. Hairpin Cotter Pin
9. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13 18. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-1/2", 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2-3/4",
10. Bushing, 5/16" Grade 5 Grade 5
Fig. 1, Fontaine 6000 and 7000 No-slack II Series Fifth Wheel (left-side release shown)

2 3 1
1
2
11/12/2002 f310920 11/12/2002 f310922

1. Bumper Spring 1. Bolt
2. Secondary Lock Spring 2. Bumper
3. Pull-Handle Cotter Pin
Fig. 4, Bumper
Fig. 2, Pull Handle
2 1
1
11/12/2002 f310923
11/12/2002 f310921
1. Operating Handle
1. Bolt 2. Bolt
2. Secondary Lock
Fig. 5, Operating Handle
Fig. 3, Secondary Lock

11/12/2002 f310924
1. Timer Spring
2. Timer
Fig. 6, Timer Spring and Timer
11/12/2002 f310925
1. Jaw
2. Wedge
Fig. 7, Jaw and Wedge

Assembly and Installation bushing that is supplied in the repair kit. Note the
orientation of the bolt (Fig. 1).
WARNING 6. Install the pull handle. See Fig. 7. Use the exist-
ing washer and cotter pin (inspect for wear be-
Before rebuilding the fifth wheel assembly, make fore using and replace if necessary). Attach the
sure that there are no cracks in the frame cross- new secondary lock/bumper spring that is sup-
members or other frame components and fifth plied in the repair kit. Open and close the fifth
wheel mounting components. Also check the fifth wheel to ensure that it works properly. The fifth
wheel bracket pin holes to ensure they are not wheel must be properly lubricated before open-
worn oversize (pins should fit snugly). Under no ing and closing the wheel.
circumstances should a fifth wheel be repaired or Use a Moly-based lubricant such as Mobil
used if any component (crossmember, saddle grease Moly 50 or equivalent when applying
bearing, etc.) is cracked. Operating a fifth wheel
lubricant to the locking jaw and wedge. Lightly
with damaged components could result in disen-
gagement of the trailer from the tractor, leading oil other moving parts in the fifth wheel.
to personal injury or property damage. 7. Close the fifth wheel several times with a stan-
dard 2-inch kingpin tool. With the lock closed,
Use a Moly-based lubricant such as Mobil adjust the wedge stop rod so that the end is 1/4
grease Moly 50 or equivalent when applying inch (6 mm) from the wedge. See Fig. 8.
lubricant to the locking jaw and wedge. Lightly
oil other moving parts in the fifth wheel. on the sliding mount assembly. Insert the bush-
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine® 6000 ing pins. Install the retaining pins and the 1-inch-
or 7000 No-Slack II series fifth wheel. long cotter pins.
1. Always assemble parts around a 2-inch kingpin
or a 2-inch diameter shaft. Insert the jaw first,
then the wedge below it. See Fig. 2. Grease the
jaw and wedge on the top and bottom.
2. Install the timer and the timer spring. See Fig. 3.
3. Install the operating handle, and bolt it to the
pivot mount. See Fig. 4. Use the existing bolt,
washer, hairpin cotter pin and bushing. Inspect
the bushing for wear before using it and replace
it if necessary. Use the new locknut that is sup-
plied in the repair kit. Note the orientation of the
bolt (Fig. 1).
4. Install the bumper, and bolt it to the operating
handle. See Fig. 5. Use the existing bolt and
washers (inspect for wear before using and re-
place if necessary). Use the new locknut and
bushing that is supplied in the repair kit. Note the
orientation of the bolt (Fig. 1). After installing the
bumper, check to make sure that it can pivot
freely.
5. Insert the secondary lock and bolt it to the oper-
ating handle. See Fig. 6. Use the existing bolt
and washers (inspect for wear before using and
replace if necessary). Use the new locknut and

5
19 14
20 21
17
16 22
17 10
15 17
9 5
9
17
8
17
18 16
6 7
16 11
5 15 12
14 24
16
25
17 23
5 1
4 9 17
2
3 13 26
2
11/12/2002 f310927
1. Wedge Stop Rod Nut 11. Timer Spring 19. Pull Handle
2. Flatwasher, 5/8", Plain 12. Step Jaw and Wedge Set 20. Secondary Lock
3. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 13. Bushing 21. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-3/4",
4. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Bracket Retainer Pin Grade 5
5. Cotter Pin, 3/16 x 1" 15. Bracket Pin 22. Bumper
6. Bumper Spring 16. Grease Fitting 23. Operating Handle
7. Handle Spring 17. Flatwasher, 1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" 24. Timer
8. Bushing, 7/16" O.D., Plain 25. Hairpin Cotter Pin
9. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13 18. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-1/2", 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2-3/4",
10. Bushing, 5/16" Grade 5 Grade 5
Fig. 1, Fontaine 6000 and 7000 No-slack II Series (left side release shown)

1 1
11/12/2002 f310925 11/12/2002 f310923

1. Jaw 1. Operating Handle
2. Wedge 2. Bolt
Fig. 2, Jaw and Wedge Fig. 4, Operating Handle
1
1
2
11/12/2002 f310924 11/12/2002 f310922

1. Timer Spring 1. Bolt
2. Timer 2. Bumper
Fig. 3, Timer Spring and Timer Fig. 5, Bumper

1 2
2
11/12/2002 f310926
A. 1/4 inch (6 mm)
1. Stop Rod
2. Wedge
11/12/2002 f310921 Fig. 8, Wedge Stop Rod Adjustment

1. Bolt
2. Secondary Lock
Fig. 6, Secondary Lock
2 3
1
11/12/2002 f310920
1. Bumper Spring
2. Secondary Lock Spring
3. Pull-Handle Cotter Pin
Fig. 7, Pull Handle

Troubleshooting
Problem—Difficulty Coupling
The kingpin is too high to trip the latch Lower the landing gear.
The trailer plate or kingpin is damaged Check the trailer plate for flatness. Check the kingpin for squareness with the
trailer plate.
Problem—Excessive Wear on the Fifth Wheel Top Plate

Damaged trailer plate If the trailer plate is not flat, replace it.
Problem—Difficulty Uncoupling
Pressure on the locking mechanism Back up the trailer and set the brakes. Strike the wedge stop rod which
caused by the truck drifting apart from the protrudes through the side of the fifth wheel. This spring-loaded rod will
trailer, putting excess pressure on the lock release the pressure on the locking mechanism.
Oval-shaped kingpin Lower the landing gear.
Debris build-up in the grease
Problem—Slack
Problem—Slack
Replace the Kingpin if it is worn greater than 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) at the 2-inch
Undersized Kingpin.
(5-cm) diameter.
Worn jaw and wedge. The jaw and wedge could have excessive wear. Replace them.

Front Suspension 32.00
General Information
General Information
Standard Freightliner front suspensions (see Fig. 1
or Fig. 2) use either tapered leaf spring assemblies
or flat leaf spring assemblies.
Shock absorbers are standard with tapered leaf
spring assemblies, and are optional with flat leaf
spring assemblies.
The spring assemblies are attached to the axle with
U-bolts, hardened washers, and high nuts. The for-
ward end of each spring contains a bushing and a
spring pin, that mount to a stationary front suspen-
sion bracket. The rear of each spring mounts to a
pair of spring shackles that are suspended from a
frame-mounted bracket. The rear spring eye and
shackle bracket each contain a bushing and a spring
pin to allow the spring shackles to pivot. The spring
shackles allow for variations in spring length during
spring flexing.
The leaf spring assembly absorbs and stores energy,
then releases it. The individual leaves are held to-
gether by a center bolt, with the center bolt head
used as a locating dowel during installation on the
vehicle. On the front end of the leaf spring assembly
is an alignment clip. Alignment clips limit lateral
spread and vertical separation of the individual
leaves.
Nonthreaded, steel spring pins with an annular lubri-
cation groove are available for all vehicle models.
Bronze bushings are used with these pins. The
bronze bushings used with 12,000-pound front ta-
pered leaf springs are graphite impregnated and
have a grease seal at each end.
NOTE: The spring pins used on some older ve-
hicles do not have the annular groove.
Threaded spring pins with threaded steel bush-
ings are available with 12,000-pound or 14,000-
pound front tapered or flat leaf suspensions.
NOTE: FLD 120 Conventionals with a setback
axle may have the same frame configuration
and front suspension bracket as the FLD 112
Conventionals, or they may have a drop-style
frame extension with a different type of front
suspension bracket. D2 Classic vehicles have a
front suspension bracket that also serves as a
frame rail extension. See Fig. 3.

32.00 Front Suspension
General Information
6
7 1
2
8
9 3
17 4
2
5
16
18
10
7 11
19 28
6
20 29
21
40 6 31 30
39
38 22
1
A 23 36 2 32
12 24 35
13 37 2
1 31 34
2 6
14 33
15 32 2 34
25 40
14 26 39
15 38
2 A
27
05/20/93 B f320144a
A. Optional Threaded Pins and Bushings B. FLA COE With Set-Forward Axle Shown
1. Self-Locking Nut, 1/2–13 14. Washer, 3/4" i.d., 2" o.d. 27. U-Bolt High Nut
2. Hardened Washer 15. Self-Locking Nut, 3/4–16 28. Bushing, Shackle Bracket
3. Bumper Mounting Z-Bracket 16. Shock Absorber Upper Bracket 29. Shackle Bracket
4. Front Suspension Bracket 17. Axle Stop 30. Spring Pin, Shackle Bracket
5. Pinch-Bolt, 1/2–13 x 4" 18. U-Bolt 31. Hardened Washer, 2-1/4" o.d.
6. Spacing Washer(s) 19. Spring Center-Bolt and Center- 32. Wear Plate
7. Spring Spacer Bolt Nut 33. Shackle
8. Spring Bushing, Forward Spring 20. Spring Spacer Plate 34. Pinch-Bolt, 1/2–13 x 3"
Eye 21. Tapered Leaf Spring Assembly 35. Spring Pin, Rear Spring Eye
9. Forward Spring Eye 22. Axle Spacer 36. Rear Spring Eye
10. Spring Pin, Forward Spring Eye 23. Shock Absorber Lower Bracket 37. Spring Bushing, Rear Spring Eye
11. Spring Leaf Alignment Clip 24. Caster Shim 38. Threaded Spring Pin
12. Washer, 1" i.d., 2" o.d. 25. Front Axle 39. Threaded Bushing
13. Shock Absorber 26. Dowel Pin 40. Split Ring
Fig. 1, Front Suspension Components (FLD Conventional and FLB COE)

General Information
18
17
16 20
21
18 22
19 25 23
24
23
26 8
24
17
16 24
29 8
14 27 28
25
9
30
13 15 32
16
7 16
31
12
6
8 5
11 7
11 9 4
10
3
2
1
11/05/2002 f320977
1. U-Bolt High Nut 12. Spring Bushing, Forward Spring 22. Pinch-Bolt, 1/2–13 x 3"
2. Hardened Washer Eye 23. Flatwasher
3. Front Axle Beam 13. Front Suspension Bracket 24. Wear Plate
4. Dowel Pin 14. Locknut, 1/2–13 25. Shackle
5. Caster Shim 15. Axle Stop 26. Hexnut, 1/2–13
6. Axle Spacer 16. Hardened Washer 27. Spacing Washer
7. Spring Spacer 17. Hexnut, 3/4–16 28. Hardened Washer, 2-1/4"
8. Spring-Eye Pin 18. U-Bolt 29. Bushing, Rear Spring Eye
9. Hardened Washer 19. Shock Absorber Upper Bracket 30. Hexbolt, 3/4–16 x 3"
10. Hexbolt, 1/2–13 (4 qty.) 20. Shackle Bracket 31. Hexbolt, 3/4–16 x 5"
11. Front Suspension Bracket Cap 21. Bushing, Shackle Bracket 32. Shock Absorber
Fig. 2, Front Suspension Components (D2 Classic vehicle)

General Information
A C
1
1
B D
1
1
11/14/2002 f310928
A. With Drop-Style Frame Extension (FLD 120 Conventional only)

B. Without Drop-Style Frame Extension (FLD 120 and FLD 112 Conventionals)
C. D2 Classic Vehicles (with 1200 sq. in. radiator)
D. D2 Classic Vehicles (with 1400 sq. in. radiator)
1. Front Suspension Bracket
Fig. 3, Front Suspension Brackets

Leaf Spring and Components Removal, Cleaning
and Inspection, and Installation
Removal If the spring pin is nonthreaded, drive it outboard

with a suitable drift, then remove it.
NOTE: See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 for this procedure. For an FLB COE, an FLD 120 Conventional with
a drop-style frame extension, remove all spacing
1. For a set-forward axle vehicle with an 8-1/2 inch
washers (used only with non-threaded pins) and
bumper, the front suspension bracket pinch bolts
spring spacers from both sides of the spring eye,
are installed from the front, and the front bumper
and keep them with the pin for later installation.
will interfere with their removal. Remove the fog
lights from the bumper; secure the lights out of 7. Remove the pinch bolts, hardened washers, and
the way so they aren’t dangling from their wires. locknuts securing the rear spring eye spring pin
Remove the front bumper. in the shackles.
Make sure the frame rails are level and an 8. If the spring pin is threaded, unscrew it from the
equal distance off the ground. bushing.
2. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the rear If the spring pin is nonthreaded, drive it outboard
tires. Raise the front of the vehicle until both with a suitable drift, then remove it from the
wheels are off the ground and the frame is sup- shackles and the rear spring eye.
ported with safety stands. The axle and leaf Remove all the spacing washers, hardened
springs can then be manipulated with the floor washers, and wear plates (used only with non-
jack. threaded pins), and keep them with the pin for
later installation.
WARNING 9. Lift the spring assembly slightly and move it to-
Safety stands must securely support all axle and ward the front of the truck. If needed, remove the
frame weight during suspension repairs. Unse- axle spacer, shock absorber lower bracket, and
cured components may drop when fasteners are the caster shim. Note the taper direction of the
loosened or removed, possibly causing serious caster shim so that it will not inadvertently be
personal injury and component damage. reversed during installation.
3. For a COE, tilt the cab, following the instructions 10. If the shackle bracket spring pin or shackle
in the cab group of this manual. This will allow bracket bushing is to be checked for condition or
access to the spring shackle. replaced, remove the spring pin:
4. Remove the U-bolts and axle stop from the leaf 10.1 Remove the pinch bolts, hardened
spring assembly. washers, and locknuts.
5. For an FLB COE or an FLD 120 Conventional 10.2 Pull the shackle, wear plate, hardened
with a drop-style frame extension, remove the washers, and spacing washer(s) from
self-locking nuts, pinch bolts, and hardened each end of the pin.
washers from the front suspension bracket. If so
10.3 If the spring pin is threaded, unscrew it
equipped, remove the bumper mounting
from the bushing.
Z-bracket, noting its position for later installation.
If the spring pin is nonthreaded, drive it
For an FLD 112 Conventional, an FLD 120 Con-
outboard with a suitable drift, then remove
ventional without a drop-style frame extension, or
it.
a D2 Classic vehicle, remove the locknuts, hard-
ened washers, hexbolts, and both bracket caps 11. If inspection shows the shackle bracket bushing
from the front suspension bracket. See Fig. 3. needs to be replaced (see "Cleaning and Inspec-
For vehicles with non-threaded spring pins, re- tion"); or if the shackle bracket is to be inspected
move the spacing washers from the spring pin, thoroughly, remove the fasteners that secure the
and keep them for later installation. shackle bracket to the frame, and remove the
bracket.
6. If the spring pin is threaded, unscrew it from the
bushing.

6
7 1
2
8
9 3
17 4
2
5
16
18
10
7 11
19 28
6
20 29
21
40 6 31 30
39
38 22
1
A 23 36 2 32
12 24 35
13 37 2
1 31 34
2 6
14 33
15 32 2 34
25 40
14 26 39
15 38
2 A
27
05/20/93 B f320144a
A. Optional Threaded Pins and Bushings B. FLB COE With Set-Forward Axle Shown
Fig. 1, Leaf Spring Removal (FLD Conventional and FLB COE)

18
17
16 20
21
18 22
19 25 23
24
23
26 8
24
17
16 24
29 8
14 27 28
25
9
30
13 15 32
16
7 16
31
12
6
8 5
11 7
11 9 4
10
3
2
1
11/05/2002 f320977
Fig. 2, Leaf Spring Removal (D2 Classic vehicle)

2
3
8
6
5 3
7
8
9
05/20/93 f320136a
1. Front Suspension Bracket 4. Spring Pin 7. Hexbolt, 1/2–13 x 5"
2. Locknut, 1/2–13 5. Grease Fitting 8. Spacing Washer(s)
3. Hardened Washer 6. Front Suspension Bracket Cap 9. Flat Leaf Spring Assembly
Fig. 3, Spring Installation for FLD 112 and FLD 120 Conventionals Without a Drop-Style Frame Extension
Cleaning and Inspection 3. Inspect the leaf spring assembly for cracks and
corrosion. If any cracked or broken leaves are
discovered, replace the entire spring assembly.
1. Using a wire brush and solvent or steam clean-
ing equipment, wash all parts to remove dirt,
grease, and scale. WARNING
2. Inspect the shackle bracket, wear plates, and Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged
spring shackles for cracks, wear, and other dam- leaf spring assembly; replace the complete
age. Replace any damaged parts. spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or
breaks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to
other leaves. Replacement of only the visibly
damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring

is safe. On front spring assemblies, if cracks or (bearing) surface of the bushing or on fas-
breaks exist in the two top leaves, a loss of ve- tener threads.
hicle control could occur. Failure to replace a
damaged spring assembly could cause an acci- CAUTION
dent resulting in serious personal injury or prop-
erty damage. Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
4. If the protective coating is gone from some areas equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
of the spring, paint the cleaned areas with a rust- parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion
inhibiting paint. If rusting or corrosion is severe, of the metals, resulting in damage to the shackle
replace the spring assembly. bracket or other parts.
5. Using a micrometer, check non-threaded spring 1.2 Install the shackle bracket and fasteners.
pins and the shackle bracket spring pin for wear. Tighten the 1/2-inch locknuts 80 lbf·ft (108
Replace a pin if its diameter at any point is less N·m) and the 5/8-inch locknuts 160 lbf·ft
than 1.242 inches (31.55 mm). (217 N·m).
Inspect threaded spring and shackle pins for NOTE: All suspension bracket (frame) fas-
cracked or broken threads. Replace any pin that teners require periodic retorquing. Refer to
has damaged threads. the vehicle maintenance manual for recom-
6. Inspect the spring and bracket bushings. Re-
mended intervals.
place the bushings if gouged, cracked, or other- 2. Using multipurpose chassis grease, lubricate all
wise damaged. spring pins and the inside surfaces of all bush-
ings.
If the non-threaded bushings are not damaged,
inspect them for wear. Using an inside microme- 3. For vehicles equipped with threaded shackle
ter or bore gauge, check the inside diameter of bracket spring pins, if the shackles were discon-
each bushing. The inside diameter of any bush- nected from the shackle bracket, install the
ing should not exceed the diameter of its spring threaded spring pin and attach the shackles to
pin by more than 0.020 inch (0.51 mm). Replace the bracket, as follows:
any bushing which exceeds this limit. For instruc-
tions, refer to the applicable subheading in Sub-
NOTE: For vehicles equipped with non-
ject 110. threaded shackle bracket spring pins, go to
the next step for installing nonthreaded
shackle bracket spring pins.
Installation
3.1 Screw the pin into the bushing until it is
IMPORTANT: For normal highway operation do centered. Make sure that the grease fitting
not install two different spring designs or load is outboard.
capacities on the front axle. In order to maintain 3.2 Install the shackle and align the groove of
a balanced front suspension system, and to pre- the pin with the shackle pinch-bolt bore.
vent difficult handling after the vehicle is placed
3.3 Install the pinch bolt and the self-locking
in service, install identical spring assemblies. nut to secure the shackle, wear plate, and
NOTE: See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 for this procedure. spring pin in place. Tighten the locknut 45
lbf·ft (61 N·m).
1. If the shackle bracket was removed from the ve-
hicle, proceed as follows: 3.4 Repeat the procedure for the other
shackle. Go to the step for installing the
1.1 Apply Alumilastic® or a similar compound dowel pin, caster shim, etc. onto the front
to all areas of the shackle bracket that axle.
contact metal other than aluminum. Also,
apply it to all capscrews, washers, and
locknuts that contact aluminum parts. Do
not apply the compound to the inner

an axle spacer, install the shock absorber lower

CAUTION bracket first, with the axle spacer on top. See
Do not over-tighten the shackle pinch-bolt nuts. Fig. 4.
Over-tightening these nuts could cause distortion For an FLD 112 Conventional (or an FLD 120
and weakening of the aluminum shackles. Conventional without a drop-style frame exten-
4. If the shackles were disconnected from the sion) equipped with both a shock absorber and
shackle bracket, install the nonthreaded spring an axle spacer, install the axle spacer first, with
pin and attach the shackles to the bracket. the shock absorber lower bracket on top. See
4.1 Insert the pin into the bracket making sure Fig. 4.
that the grease fitting is outboard. On D2 Classic vehicles, the shock absorber
4.2 Install the applicable wear plate, spacing lower mounting bracket and the axle stop are
washer(s), and hardened washer on one one component.
end of the pin. 7. Install the spring assembly on the axle so the
4.3 Install the shackle. Be sure the wear plate spring center bolt head fits into the bore in the
is in direct contact with the shackle. Align axle spacer, shock absorber lower bracket, or
the groove of the pin with the shackle caster shim, as applicable. See Fig. 4.
pinch-bolt bore. 8. Place the axle stop on top of the spring assem-
4.4 Install the pinch bolt, hardened washers, bly.
and self-locking nut to secure the shackle, 9. Install the U-bolts over the axle stop and spring
wear plate, and spring pin in place. assembly and through the holes in the axle. It
Tighten the locknut 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m). may be necessary to compress the sides of the
U-bolts slightly in order to get the U-bolt ends to
CAUTION align with the axle holes. A C-clamp attached
above the U-bolt threads can be used for this
Do not over-tighten the shackle pinch-bolt nuts. purpose.
Over-tightening these nuts could cause distortion
and weakening of the aluminum shackles. 10. Install the hardened washers and the high nuts
finger-tight.
4.5 Repeat the procedure for the other
11. For an FLD 112 Conventional, an FLD 120 Con-
shackle. Go to the next step.
ventional without a drop-style frame extension, or
5. Install the dowel pin, caster shim, shock ab- a D2 Classic vehicle, go to the next step.
sorber lower bracket (if so equipped), and axle
spacer (if so equipped) on the front axle. First, For an FLB COE or an FLD 120 Conventional
apply Alumilastic or similar compound to all alu- with a drop-style frame extension, attach the
minum surfaces which will contact metal other spring assembly to the front suspension bracket:
than aluminum. 11.1 With non-threaded spring pins, hold one
spring spacer and half the total number of
CAUTION spacing washers between the outboard
end of the bracket and the spring, and
Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an insert the end of the pin without a grease
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel fitting far enough into the bushing to hold
parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion the spacer and washers in place. Hold the
of the metals, resulting in damage to the parts. remaining spring spacer and washers in
6. Be sure the caster shim is installed with the place, and push the spring pin the rest of
taper pointing in the original direction. the way until the grooves in the pin align
with the front suspension bracket pinch-
IMPORTANT: For FLB COEs, and FLD 120 bolt bores.
Conventionals (with a drop-style frame exten-
sion) equipped with both a shock absorber and

1 1
2 2
3 3
4 5
5 4
6 6
7 7
8 8
9 9
10 10
A B
05/20/93 f320135a
A. FLB COE and FLD 120 Conventional B. FLD 112 Conventional

1. Axle Stop 5. Shock Absorber Lower Bracket 8. Front Axle
2. U-Bolt 6. Caster Shim 9. Hardened Washer
3. Leaf Spring Assembly 7. Dowel Pin 10. U-Bolt High Nut
4. Axle spacer
Fig. 4, Leaf Spring Installation
11.2 With threaded pins, screw the pin all the each side of the spring. However, if the
way into the bushing until the spring pin amount of play requires an uneven num-
grooves align with the suspension brack- ber of washers, the additional washer
et’s pinch-bolt bores. should be installed on the outboard side of
the spring eye.
With non-threaded spring pins, check for
play between the spring eye and the 11.3 With both threaded and non-threaded
bracket ends. If needed, install additional spring pins, install the pinch bolts, with a
1/32-inch (0.8-mm) spacing washers (1- hardened washer on each, in the front
1/4 inch [32 mm] i.d., 1-7/8 inch [48 mm] suspension bracket from the rear. For a
o.d.) so there is less than one washer vehicle with a set-forward axle, install the
thickness of end play. It is preferable to bumper mounting Z-bracket, in the same
have an equal number of washers on position noted during removal. Install the

hardened washers and self-locking nuts. 12.5 With both threaded and non-threaded
Tighten the locknuts 80 lbf·ft (108 N·m). spring pins, tighten the locknuts 70 lbf·ft
(95 N·m).
NOTE: If a set-forward axle vehicle is
equipped with an 8-1/2 inch bumper, install Go to the next step.
the pinch bolts through the front of the front 13. Attach the spring assembly to the shackles:
suspension bracket, to allow clearance be-
tween the fasteners and the bottom flange of 13.1 With non-threaded spring pins, hold a
wear plate, half the total number of spac-
the bumper. ing washers, and a hardened washer be-
11.4 Go to the step for attaching the spring as- tween the outboard shackle and the spring
sembly to the shackles. eye. With the grease fitting outboard, in-
sert the spring pin far enough into the
12. For an FLD 112 Conventional, an FLD 120 Con- bushing to hold the wear plate and
ventional without a drop-style frame extension, or washers in place. Hold the remaining wear
a D2 Classic vehicle, attach the spring assembly plate and washers in place, and push the
to the front suspension bracket: pin the rest of the way until the grooves in
12.1 Insert the spring pin into the forward the pin align with the shackle pinch-bolt
spring eye, with its grease fitting outboard. bores.
See Fig. 2. 13.2 With threaded pins, screw the pin all the
With threaded pins, screw the pin all the way into the bushing until the spring pin
way into the bushing until the spring pin grooves align with the shackle pinch-bolt
grooves align with the suspension brack- bores.
et’s pinch-bolt bores. With non-threaded spring pins, check for
12.2 With non-threaded spring pins, install the play between the spring and the shackles.
appropriate number of spacing washers If needed, install additional 1/32-inch (0.8-
on each end of the spring pin, then move mm) spacing washers (1-1/4 inch [32 mm]
the spring eye and pin into place in the i.d., 1-7/8 inch [48 mm] o.d.) so there is
front suspension bracket. Align the less than one washer thickness of end
grooves of the pin with the bracket’s rear play. It is preferable to have an equal
bolt holes. number of washers on each side of the
spring. However, if the amount of play re-
12.3 With both threaded and non-threaded quires an uneven number of washers, the
spring pins, install the suspension bracket additional washer should be installed on
caps, hexbolts, hardened washers, and the outboard side of the spring eye.
new locknuts. Tighten the locknuts until
the bracket caps are against the bracket. 13.3 Install the pinch bolts, hardened washers,
and locknuts. Torque the nuts 45 lbf·ft (61
12.4 With non-threaded spring pins, check for N·m).
play between the spring eye and the sides
of the bracket. If needed, install additional
1/32-inch (0.8-mm) thick spacing washers CAUTION
(1-1/4 inch [32 mm] i.d., 1-7/8 inch [48 Do not over-tighten the shackle pinch-bolt nuts.
mm] o.d.) so there is less than one Overtightening these nuts could lead to distor-
washer thickness of end play. It is prefer- tion and weakening of the aluminum shackles.
able to have an equal number of washers
on each side of the spring. However, if the 14. Wipe all dirt from the grease fittings on the
amount of play requires an uneven num- spring pins and the shackle bracket spring pin.
ber of washers, the additional washer Apply multipurpose chassis grease with a pres-
should be installed on the outboard side. sure gun until grease appears at the opposite
end of the pin.

15. For a COE, if the cab was tilted, clear the area
of tools, etc., and lower the cab to its operating
position.
16. Remove the jack stands from the chassis and
lower the truck.
17. Install the bumper and the fog lights, if previously
removed.
18. Tighten the U-bolt high nuts in stages in a diago-
nal pattern as described in Section 32.00, Speci-
fications 400.
CAUTION
Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
age to the springs, spring brackets, and frame
rail.
IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
periodic torquing. For suspension component
fastener torque checking intervals and instruc-
tions, refer to the suspension section in the ve-
hicle maintenance manual.

Bushing Replacement
Shackle Bracket Bushing

Replacement
1. With the shackle bracket removed from the ve-
hicle, press out the worn or damaged bushing.
2. With an inside micrometer or bore gauge, check
for an out-of-round condition in the bracket bore.
Replace the bracket if the bushing bore is out-of-
round.
3. Before installing the new bushing, check the
shackle bracket spring pin for ease of fit in the
bushing. Threaded pins should screw in easily by
hand without binding. Non-threaded pins should
have an easy slip fit without wobble between the
pin and the bushing.
4. Using a press, press the new bushing into the
bracket until the bushing is centered in the
bracket. The bushing ends must be flush or in-
side the vertical edges of the bracket bore, and
the split in the bushing must be within 1/4 inch (6
mm) of the bottom of the bracket bore.
5. Check the shackle bracket spring pin for ease of
fit in the bushing. Threaded pins should still turn
easily by hand without binding. Non-threaded
pins should still have an easy slip fit without
wobble between the pin and the bushing. If bind-
ing occurs, the bushing may have been distorted
during installation. Replace the bushing and
check again for proper fit.
Spring Bushing Replacement

(nonthreaded bushings only)
1. Press out the worn or damaged bushing.
2. Press the new bushing into the spring eye until
the bushing and the spring edges are flush. The
split in the bushing must be within 3/16 inch (5
mm) of the top of the spring eye.
3. Ream the newly installed bushing 1.252 to 1.254
inches (31.80 to 31.85 mm) i.d., if needed; do
not ream graphite-impregnated bronze bushings.

Shock Absorber Removal and Installation
NOTE: See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 for these proce-

dures.
Removal
Remove the locknuts and hardened washers from
the shock absorber upper and lower bracket studs.
Pull straight out on the shock absorber to remove it.
Installation
1. Check the shock absorber bushings (two bush-
ings in each eye) for wear or damage, and re-
place them if needed.
2. Make sure the 2-inch o.d. by 1-inch i.d. washer
is installed on the stud of the shock absorber
upper bracket.
3. Install the eyes of the shock absorber on the
upper and lower bracket studs.
4. Install the washer and a new self-locking nut on
each of the bracket studs. Tighten the locknuts
150 lbf·ft (203 N·m).

6
7 1
2
8
9 3
17 4
2
5
16
18
10
7 11
19 28
6
20 29
21
40 6 31 30
39
38 22
1
A 23 36 2 32
12 24 35
13 37 2
1 31 34
2 6
14 33
15 32 2 34
25 40
14 26 39
15 38
2 A
27
05/20/93 B f320144a
A. Optional Threaded Pins and Bushings B. FLB COE With Set-Forward Axle Shown
Fig. 1, Front Suspension (FLD Conventional and FLB COE)

18
17
16 20
21
18 22
19 25 23
24
23
26 8
24
17
16 24
29 8
14 27 28
25
9
30
13 15 32
16
7 16
31
12
6
8 5
11 7
11 9 4
10
3
2
1
11/05/2002 f320977
Fig. 2, Front Suspension (D2 Classic vehicle)

Troubleshooting
Problem—Vehicle Leans to One Side
One or more spring leaves are broken. Replace the spring assembly.
The spring assembly is weak or fatigued. Replace the spring assembly.
Unmatched spring-design/load-capacity Install the correct spring assemblies as originally specified for the vehicle.
spring assemblies are installed.
A frame rail is bent or twisted. Check the frame rails for bends and twists. Correct as needed.
Problem—Vehicle Wanders
The wheels are out of alignment. Adjust the wheel alignment using the instructions in the front axle section in
this manual.
Caster is incorrect. Install correct caster shims. Refer to the front axle section in this manual for
specifications.
Steering gear is not centered. Adjust steering using the instructions in the steering section in this manual.
Drive axles are out of alignment. Align the drive axles using the instructions in the rear axle section in this
manual.
Problem—Vehicle Bottoms Out

Excessive weight on the vehicle is causing Reduce the loaded vehicle weight to the maximum spring capacities.
an overload.
The spring assembly is weak or fatigued. Replace the spring assembly.
Problem—Frequent Spring Breakage

The vehicle is overloaded or operated Reduce the loaded vehicle weight to the maximum spring capacities. Caution
under severe conditions. the driver on improper vehicle handling.
There is insufficient torque on the U-bolt Torque the U-bolt high nuts to the value listed in the torque table in
high nuts. Specifications, 400.
A loose center bolt is allowing the spring Check the spring leaves for damage. If damaged, replace the spring
leaves to slip. assembly. If not, tighten the center-bolt nut to the value listed in the torque
table in Specifications, 400.
Worn or damaged spring pin bushings are Replace the spring pin and bushing.
allowing spring end-play.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Noisy Spring
A loose U-bolt nut or center bolt is Inspect the components for damage. Replace damaged components as
allowing spring leaf slippage. necessary. Torque the fasteners to the values listed in the torque table in
Specifications, 400.
A loose, bent, or broken spring shackle or Inspect the shackles and brackets for damage. Replace damaged
front suspension bracket is impairing the components as necessary. Torque the fasteners to the values listed in the
spring flex. torque table under Specifications, 400.
Worn or damaged spring pins are allowing Replace any worn or damaged spring pins.
spring end-play.
Problem—Rough Ride
Refer to the suspension section in this manual.

Specifications
Front Suspension Fastener Torque Values

Description Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Shackle Bracket-to-Frame Locknut 3/4–10 240 (325)
Forward Spring-Eye Bolt 3/4–10 240 (325)
Upper and Lower Shackle Bolt 3/4–10 240 (325)
Stage 1: Hand-tighten
5/8–18 Stage 2: 60 (81)
Stage 3: 180–230 (245–313)
Stage 2: 60 (81)
3/4–16
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 270–330 (367–449)
Axle U-bolt High Nuts (Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown in Fig. 1.) Stage 1: Hand-tighten
Stage 2: 60 (81)
7/8–14
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 420–500 (571–680)
Stage 2: 60 (81)
1–14
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 520–600 (707–816)
Spring Assembly Center-Bolt Nut 1/2–20 65 (88)
Shock Absorber Upper and Lower Mounting Locknut 3/4–10 140 (190)
Table 1, Front Suspension Fastener Torque Values
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783
Fig. 1, Tightening Pattern for U-bolt High Nuts

Rough Ride Diagnosis 32.01
General Description
General Description
There are two terms used to describe rough ride
conditions: harmonic and harsh. Harmonic ride prob-
lems are those in which the once-per-revolution en-
ergy input from such things as bent or imbalanced
wheels match the natural frequency of the frame flex-
ing. This produces a fore-and-aft motion in the cab,
which continues as long as the critical road speed is
maintained. Harmonic ride problems can occur on
smooth roads.
Harsh ride problems are those in which the suspen-
sion transfers, rather than absorbs, the momentary
energy inputs produced when the tires hit bumps or
holes in the road. Wavy asphalt, or a series of
bumps, may cause repetition of the harsh, jarring
motion in the cab, but the motion stops after the tires
pass over the bumps. Harsh ride problems occur on
rough roads.
This section is designed for use as an aid in locating
and correcting rough ride problems. It is not intended
for use as a replacement for the detailed service in-
formation located in the applicable subjects in this
manual, or in the component manufacturer’s service
manuals.

Harmonic and Harsh Ride Checks
Harmonic Ride Checks 3. Raise the vehicle until the tires are off the
ground, and all of the weight is removed from the
leaf springs. Block the axle and frame with safety
1. Visually check the vehicle for signs of damaged
stands. Perform the corrections under "Harsh
or missing suspension components. Repair or
Ride, Tires Off the Ground" in Troubleshoot-
replace the components using the instructions in
ing, 300.
the applicable sections in this manual.
2. Test drive the vehicle. WARNING
NOTE: When test driving the vehicle, duplicate
as closely as possible the conditions under WARNING: Safety stands must securely support
all of the wheel and frame weight during suspen-
which the problem occurs. Note the area of the
sion repairs. Unsecured components may drop
vehicle where the problem seems to be coming when the fasteners are loosened or removed,
from. Pay special attention to this area during causing component damage and serious per-
the service operations. sonal injury.
3. Raise the vehicle until the tires are off the 4. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
ground, and all of the weight is removed from the and axle, then lower the vehicle. Perform the
leaf springs. Block the axle and frame with safety corrections under "Harsh Ride, Tires On the
stands. Perform the corrections under "Harmonic Ground" in Troubleshooting, 300.
Ride, Tires Off the Ground" in Troubleshoot-
ing, 300. 5. If the problem persists, perform the harmonic
ride checks in this subject. Occasionally, ride
problems associated with rough roads are har-
WARNING monic ride problems masked by the road condi-
tions.
WARNING: Safety stands must securely support
all of the wheel and frame weight during suspen-
sion repairs. Unsecured components may drop
when the fasteners are loosened or removed,
causing component damage and serious per-
sonal injury.
4. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
and axle, then lower the vehicle. Perform the
corrections under "Harmonic Ride, Tires On the
Ground" in Troubleshooting, 300.
Harsh Ride Checks

1. Visually check the vehicle for signs of damaged
or missing suspension components. Repair or
replace the components using the instructions in
the applicable sections in this manual.
2. Test drive the vehicle.
NOTE: When test driving the vehicle, duplicate
as closely as possible the conditions under
which the problem occurs. Note the area of the
vehicle where the problem seems to be coming
from. Pay special attention to this area during
the service operations.

Troubleshooting
Problem—Harmonic Ride, Tires Off the Ground

Bent, distorted, or out-of-round wheels or Inspect and repair the assemblies using the instructions in the wheels and
rims are causing a rough ride. tires section in this manual.
Bent, distorted, or out-of-round brake Replace damaged components using the instructions in the front or rear axle
drums or hubs are causing a rough ride. section in this manual.
An improperly seated tire-to-rim bead is Inspect the tires and rims for proper bead seating. Correct the problem using
causing an out-of-round assembly. the instructions in the wheels and tires section in this manual.
A tire and rim assembly on spoke wheels Remove and install the tire and rim assembly using the instructions in the
is improperly installed, causing an out-of- wheels and tires section in this manual.
round assembly.
Worn or distorted rim spacers are causing Replace damaged spacers using the instructions in the wheels and tires
an out-of-round assembly. section in this manual.
The wheels, brake drums, or hub Inspect the components for missing balance weights. Balance, as necessary.
assemblies are out of balance.
Radial force variations in the tires are Exchange the tires and wheels with a set that is known to cause no ride
causing a rough ride. problems. If this corrects the problem, discard the old tires. For instructions,
refer to the wheels and tires section in this manual.
Problem—Harmonic Ride, Tires On the Ground

On Conventionals, worn or loose cab With a long bar, lever the cab legs up and down. If there is looseness, replace
mounts allow the cab to bounce. or tighten the mounts, as necessary.
On COEs, the rear cab latches are out of Adjust the latches using the instructions in the cab section in this manual.
adjustment.
Forces from the trailer suspension are Review the ride problems in this subject that apply to the trailer suspension.
pushing on the tractor fifth wheel. Perform the corrections, as necessary.
Problem—Harsh Ride, Tires Off the Ground

Seized front spring shackle pins are not Replace seized shackle pins. For instructions, refer to the suspension section
allowing the springs to flex. in this manual.
Problem—Harsh Ride, Tires On the Ground

The tires are improperly inflated. Adjust the tire pressure using the instructions in the wheels and tires section in
the vehicle maintenance manual.

32.01 Rough Ride Diagnosis
Troubleshooting

Check the suspension for weak or damaged springs or components. Inspect
the springs for "gull-winging" when the vehicle is loaded. Replace the spring
assembly, as necessary, using the instructions in the suspension section in
this manual.
The frame is bottoming out against the
Reduce the overall loaded weight on each axle to conform with the maximum
suspension.
spring load capacities on the vehicle specification sheet. Do not exceed the
maximum spring load capacities.
Adjust the air spring height using the instructions in the suspension section in
this manual.
The vehicle normal loaded weight is Contact the Freightliner Service Operations Regional Office for the correct
markedly below the spring load capacity. application of a lower rated spring. Replace the spring assembly using the
instructions in the suspension section in this manual.
When the vehicle is loaded, the front axle Contact the Freightliner Service Operations Regional Office for shackle angle
spring shackle angle is not within the corrective measures. Refer to the suspension section in this manual for
rearward 3 to 18 degree angle. service instructions.
The weight on the tractor fifth wheel is If possible, move the fifth wheel toward the rear of the vehicle; otherwise,
causing overloading on the front axle change the loading pattern on the trailer.
springs.
There is a loaded weight differential Contact the Freightliner Service Operations Regional Office for corrective
between the rear axles greater than 800 measures.
pounds (363 kg).
Forces from the trailer suspension are Review the ride problems in this subject that apply to the trailer suspension.
pushing on the tractor fifth wheel causing Perform the corrections, as necessary.
a rough ride condition.

Freightliner Air Suspension, Models FAS 20 and FAS 40 32.02
General Description 2
The Freightliner Air Suspension (FAS) is equipped

with a tapered leaf spring assembly, secured to the
axle housing by U-bolts. The rear end of the spring
attaches to a suspension crossmember, and the for-
ward end to a spring hanger. Air springs mounted
between the frame rail and suspension crossmember
are used to adjust vehicle height, compensating for
changes in road conditions and vehicle load. The air
springs also absorb road shock.
A leveling valve regulates the flow of air into or out of
the air springs. See Fig. 1. Changes in the clearance 1
between the vehicle frame and the suspension cross- 3
member activate the leveling valve.
to atmosphere
A pressure holding valve ( see Fig. 2, Ref. 2) located
in the air line to the leveling valve, is preset to main- to air springs
tain a minimum pressure of about 65 psi (448 kPa) in
the vehicle secondary air system, if a leak were to 4
5
occur in the air suspension system. In that case,
solid rubber bumpers in the air springs would support 6
the vehicle load until a repair could be made.
7 1. Secondary Air Reservoir
2. Pressure Holding Valve
3. Neway Leveling Valve
4. Nylon Block
5. Adjustment Locknut
2 6. Overtravel Lever
7. Leveling Valve Linkage
03/08/93 f320058
Fig. 2, Leveling Valve Linkage Installation

3
The leveling valve controls the air suspension sys-
tem. All of the air in the system is admitted through
or exhausted from this valve.
The leveling valve is mounted on the inside web of
1 the frame rail. An overtravel lever extends horizon-
4
tally from the end of the leveling valve control shaft
to a linkage arm that connects to the suspension
crossmember. See Fig. 1. When the load changes,
the overtravel lever turns the leveling valve control
1. Leveling Valve 3. Overtravel Lever shaft, activating either the intake or exhaust valve
Linkage 4. Suspension core inside the leveling valve. This adjusts the air
2. Leveling Valve Crossmember pressure in the air springs, until the frame returns to
03/08/93 f320057 the normal ride height, and the overtravel lever re-
Fig. 1, Leveling Valve System turns to the neutral (horizontal) position.

32.02 Freightliner Air Suspension, Models FAS 20 and FAS 40
With the vehicle in motion, and the overtravel lever in

the neutral position, small movements of the over-
travel lever occur without activating the leveling
valve. This is due to a free-travel range: a gap be-
tween the leveling valve control shaft and the internal
valve cores of the leveling valve. In addition, the lev-
eling valve is filled with a silicone fluid, which delays
(from two to six seconds) the closing of one valve
core after the opening of the other. This prevents ac-
tivation of the leveling valve during abrupt move-
ments of the axle.

General Guidelines and Precautions
General Guidelines and corrosion of the metals, resulting in suspension

system and frame damage.
Precautions
1. Because air suspension systems are controlled
by contaminant-sensitive air valves, the air sys-
tem must be kept free of any oil, moisture, or
foreign material. Air system components should
be inspected and maintained regularly. Refer to
the brake section in the vehicle maintenance
manual for maintenance operations.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to prevent the entry of mois-
ture, oil, or other foreign material into the air sus-
pension system could eventually lead to sludge
forming in the air system. Sludge could adversely
affect the operation of the air suspension system
as well as other air system components.
2. Attach spring hangers and brackets to the frame
using SAE grade 8 bolts with phosphate-and oil-
coated threads, and grade C prevailing torque
locknuts that are cadmium plated and wax
coated. Install flatwashers with a hardness rating
of 38 to 45 HRC under both the bolt and the nut.
3. All suspension fasteners require periodic retorqu-
ing. For suspension component inspecting, lubri-
cating, and fastener torque checking intervals
and instructions, refer to the maintenance sched-
ule and the suspension section in the vehicle
maintenance manual.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to periodically torque suspen-
sion fasteners can result in abnormal tire wear
and damage to springs, spring hangers, brackets,
and frame rails.
4. At all points where aluminum parts are fastened
to steel parts, use Alumilastic® compound, or
equivalent, on the mating surfaces. This includes
nuts, bolts, and washers.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to apply Alumilastic com-
pound, or equivalent, to areas where aluminum
and steel parts contact each other, could lead to

Leveling Valve Adjustment
Adjustment 2
Adjust the leveling valve with the vehicle on a level

surface.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to adjust the leveling valve
could adversely affect driveline angles. Also, if
the air springs are set too high, the driver may
have difficulty (or be prevented from) backing the
vehicle under a trailer. If the air springs are set
too low, too much wear of suspension parts will 1
result. 3
1. Chock the tires. Run the engine to build up and to atmosphere
maintain a vehicle air pressure of 70 psi (482
kPa).
to air springs
2. Disconnect the leveling valve linkage from the
4
overtravel lever. See Fig. 1. Exhaust all air from 5
the air springs by moving the overtravel lever
down. 6
3. Loosen the adjustment locknut ( See Fig. 1, Ref. 7 1. Secondary Air Reservoir
5), and move the overtravel lever until the stud in 2. Pressure Holding Valve
the nylon block or overtravel control body is cen- 3. Neway Leveling Valve
tered in the overtravel lever adjustment slot. 4. Nylon Block
Then, tighten the leveling valve adjustment lock- 5. Adjustment Locknut
nut 60 lbf·in (680 N·cm). 6. Overtravel Lever
03/08/93 f320058
NOTE: Insert a 3/16-inch diameter locating pin
(or a 3/16-inch drill bit) in the hole at the back of
the nylon block and through the hole in the Fig. 1, Leveling Valve Linkage Installation
mounting bracket. See Fig. 2. This will aid in
centering the nylon block stud in the overtravel
lever adjustment slot. After tightening the adjust-
ment locknut, remove the locating pin (drill bit). 1
4. Connect the overtravel lever to its linkage, and

allow the air springs to fill until the valve shuts
off.
5. Measure the distance from the bottom of the 2
frame rail flange to the bottom of the air springs. 1. Nylon Block A
See Fig. 3. This distance should be 6-3/4 ±1/8 2. Adjustment Locknut
inches (170 ±3 mm). A. 3/16" diameter locating pin
goes here during height
IMPORTANT: Because of a built-in delay in the control valve adjustment.
leveling valve, two to six seconds are required 03/08/93 f320213
after making adjustments before the spring
height changes. Fig. 2, Neway Leveling Valve

Leveling Valve Adjustment
A. 6−3/4 +
− 1/8 inch (170 +
− 3 mm)
03/09/93 f320214
Fig. 3, Air Spring Height Measurement

NOTE: Perform this measurement on the for-
ward axle of tandem axle installations.
If the distance is not 6-3/4 ±1/8 inches (170 ±3
mm), loosen the leveling valve mounting bolt
nuts, and rotate the entire valve slightly until the
height is correct. Tighten the leveling valve
mounting bolt nuts 14 lbf·ft (19 N·m).
6. Disconnect the leveling valve linkage, and allow
the air springs to deflate about halfway.
Connect the linkage to inflate the air springs, and
check the air spring height again. Repeat the last
two steps above, until the height measures 6-3/4
±1/8 inches (170 ±3 mm).
When the height is within 1/8 inch (3 mm) of the
required 6-3/4 inches (170 mm), final adjustment
is made by loosening the adjustment locknut and
slightly moving the overtravel lever relative to the
nylon block or overtravel control body. Tighten
the leveling valve adjustment locknut 60 lbf·in
(680 N·cm).
7. Connect the leveling valve linkage to the over-
travel lever. Tighten the lever nut 12 lbf·ft (16
N·m).

Leveling Valve Checking
Checking 3. Return the valve to the neutral position.

See Fig. 2, Ref. B. Air should stop flowing. If
so, that section of the valve is okay.
The leveling valve is the control center of any air
suspension system and is sensitive to changes in 4. Push the overtravel lever down about 45 degrees
height; when correctly adjusted, it maintains the cor- for 6 to 8 seconds. See Fig. 2, Ref. C. If air ex-
rect suspension ride height. hausts from the valve, that section of the valve is
Carefully check the valve before replacing it. Do the okay.
following steps to see if a valve is damaged or out of 5. Return the valve to the neutral position. If the air
adjustment. stops again in the neutral position, the valve is
1. Disconnect the valve linkage from the overtravel working correctly.
lever. See Fig. 1 . 6. If you do all of the above steps and the valve
2. Pull the overtravel lever up about 45 degrees for works as stated, the valve is operative.
6 to 8 seconds. See Fig. 2, Ref. A. If air passes If adjustment of the leveling valve is needed, re-
through the valve, that section of the valve is fer to Subject 110.
okay.
A
2
45 Up
B
1
Neutral
3
to atmosphere
to air springs 45 Down

4
5
6
7 1. Secondary Air Reservoir C
2. Pressure Holding Valve 03/08/93 f320013
4. Nylon Block
Fig. 2
6. Overtravel Lever
03/08/93 f320058
Fig. 1

Leveling Valve Removal and Installation
Removal 5. Remove the leveling valve mounting bolts and

nuts, and remove the leveling valve from the
1. Chock the tires. frame rail.
2. Drain the air system. For instructions, refer to the Installation

brake section in the vehicle maintenance
manual.
1. Attach the leveling valve to the frame rail.
3. Disconnect the linkage from the overtravel lever. Tighten the valve mounting bolt nuts 14 lbf·ft (19
See Fig. 1. Exhaust all air from the air springs N·m).
by moving the overtravel lever down.
2. Remove the tape from the air lines and fittings,
and connect the air lines to the leveling valve, as
2 referenced earlier or as shown in Fig. 2. Tighten
the lines to the values in the brake section in the
3. Connect the leveling valve linkage to the over-
travel lever. Tighten the lever nut 12 lbf·ft (16
N·m).
4. Close the drain cocks on all reservoirs.
5. Build up normal operating pressure in the air
system. Check all air lines and connections for
leaks. Eliminate all leaks.
1 6. Adjust the leveling valve. For instructions, re-
3 fer to Subject 110.
to atmosphere
to air springs
4
5
6
7 1. Secondary Air Reservoir
4. Nylon Block
6. Overtravel Lever
03/08/93 f320058
Fig. 1
4. Disconnect the air lines at the leveling valve, and
mark the lines for later assembly reference (do
not disconnect the exhaust tube). Using tape,
cover the open ends of the air lines and fittings
to prevent dirt or foreign material from entering.

Leveling Valve Removal and Installation
03/08/93 f320212

Shock Absorber Replacement
Replacement
1. Chock the tires.
2. Remove the locknuts and washers from the
shock absorber upper and lower mounting pins.
See Fig. 1.
3. Pull the shock absorber off the mounting pins to
remove it from the vehicle. If the inner metal
sleeve has become attached to the mounting pin,
use a small, sharp chisel to force the sleeve from
the pin.
4. Install the replacement shock absorber on the
mounting pins, and secure it with the locknuts
and washers.Tighten the shock absorber mount-
ing locknuts 150 lbf·ft (203 N·m).
11/22/95 f320072a
1. Locknut
Fig. 1, Shock Absorber Fasteners

Air Spring Replacement
Replacement
1. Chock the front tires. Raise and support the ve-
hicle frame with safety stands to remove all
weight from the air springs. The leveling valve
automatically releases air from the air springs
when all weight is removed from the suspension.
2. Disconnect the air supply line from the air spring.
Using tape, cover the ends of the air supply line
and the fitting to prevent dirt or foreign material
from entering. A
3. Remove the locknuts and washers that connect
the air spring to the upper mounting bracket. See
Fig. 1.
A. Remove/install capscrew here and on

opposite end.
03/09/93 f320353
Fig. 2, Air Spring Lower Support

A
CAUTION
Make sure the capscrews are not longer than 3/4
inch. Longer capscrews can damage the air bag
base plate.
6. Attach the washers and locknuts connecting the
air spring to the upper mounting bracket. See
A. Remove/install locknut here and on Fig. 1. Tighten air spring upper mounting 3/4–16
outside of frame rail. locknuts 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m); tighten 1/2–13 lock-
03/09/93 f320064
Fig. 1, Air Spring Upper Mounting Bracket 7. Remove the tape from the end of the air supply
4. Remove the serrated-flange capscrews that con- line and the fitting. Connect the air supply line to
nect the air spring to the lower bag support. See the air spring. Tighten the line to the value in
Fig. 2. Remove the air spring. Group 42 of the Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance
Manual.
5. Place the new air spring on the lower bag sup-
port, and install the capscrews securing the air 8. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
spring in place. See Fig. 2. Use only serrated- Remove the chocks from the tires.
flange 3/8–16 by 3/4-inch cadmium-plated cap-
screws. Tighten the capscrews 34 lbf·ft (46 N·m).

Leaf Spring Removal and Installation
Removal (See Fig. 1) 2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support the
rear axle(s) with safety stands. Raise the vehicle
frame so that all weight is removed from the leaf
WARNING springs, then securely support the frame with
safety stands. Remove the wheel/tire assembly
WARNING: Do not replace individual leaves of a to gain easy access to the suspension. Refer to
damaged leaf spring assembly; replace the com- Group 40 for instructions.
plete spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or
breaks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to 3. Remove the locknut (Ref. 7), bearing washer,
other leaves. Replacement of only the visibly bolt, and neoprene sleeve from the spring
damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring hanger.
is safe. Failure to replace a damaged spring as- 4. Note the number and position of alignment
sembly could cause an accident resulting in seri- washers on the spring mounting eye bolts (Ref.
ous personal injury or property damage. 3). Remove the locknuts, bolts, and washers.
1. Chock the front tires. Disconnect the spring torque leaf (Ref. 9) from
the spring hanger.
A 2
28
11 12
10
1
2 27
7
3
13 26
9 19 25 B
4 5 64 8 14 24
23
15 20
16 22
17 21
06/20/96
18 f320300a
A. Aluminum Spring Hanger B. Iron Spring Hanger
1. Frame Rail 12. Axle U-Bolt Pad 21. Flatwasher
2. Spring Hanger 13. Spring Seat 22. Pressure Plate
3. Spring Mounting Eye Bolt 14. Axle (sectional view) 23. Suspension Crossmember
4. Bearing Washer 15. Axle Clamp 24. Suspension Crossmember
5. Spring Mounting Eye Pin 16. Flatwasher U-Bolt
6. Alignment Washer 17. High Nut 25. Air Spring Lower Support
7. Neoprene Sleeve Locknut 18. Shock Absorber Mounting 26. Serrated-Flange Capscrew
8. Locknut Bracket 27. Air Spring
9. Spring Torque Leaf 19. Shock Absorber 28. Air Spring Upper Mounting
10. Tapered Leaf Spring Assembly 20. High Nut Bracket
11. Axle U-Bolt
Fig. 1, Leaf Spring Mounting, FAS 20 and FAS 40

Leaf Spring Removal and Installation
5. Remove the high nuts and flatwashers (Refs. 20

and 21) from the suspension crossmember
U-bolts. Remove the pressure plate (Ref. 22)
and the U-bolts.
6. Remove the high nuts and flatwashers (Refs. 16
and 17) from the axle U-bolts. Remove the shock
absorber mounting bracket (Ref. 18), the axle
clamp (Ref. 15), the axle U-bolts and the U-bolt
pad (Ref. 12).
7. Slide the leaf spring off the spring seat (Ref. 13).
Installation
1. Place the leaf spring assembly on the spring
seat (Ref. 13), and set the axle U-bolt pad (Ref.
12) in place on top of the leaf spring assembly.
Then, slide the axle U-bolts into place, and apply
antiseize compound to the U-bolt threads. Install
the axle clamp (Ref. 15), and the shock absorber
mounting bracket (Ref. 18). Hold them in place
with the flatwashers and high nuts. Tighten the
nuts finger-tight.
2. Position the leaf spring assembly on the suspen-
sion crossmember; then, install the crossmember
U-bolts (Ref. 24) and the pressure plate (Ref.
22). Install the flatwashers and high nuts on the
crossmember U-bolts. Tighten the high nuts 65
lbf·ft (88 N·m).
3. Install the spring mounting eye bolts (Ref. 3) with
the appropriate alignment washers (noted during
removal), and locknuts. Tighten the locknuts 190
lbf·ft (258 N·m).
4. In a diagonal pattern, tighten the axle U-bolt high
nuts 60 lbf·ft (80 N·m). Then, in the same pat-
tern, tighten them 200 lbf·ft (270 N·m); then to
the final torque of 460 lbf·ft (624 N·m).
5. Install the neoprene sleeve in the spring hanger,
then install the bolt from the inboard side of the
spring hanger. Install the flatwasher and locknut
on the bolt. Tighten the locknut 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m).
6. Install the wheel/tire assembly. For instructions,
refer to the applicable subject in Group 40. Re-
move the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
7. Check the rear axle alignment. Refer to Sec-
tion 35.03 for instructions. If necessary, adjust
the rear axle alignment using the instructions in
Subject 170 of this section.

Rear Axle Alignment
Alignment (See Fig. 1)

1. Disconnect the forward end of the spring torque
leaf from the spring hanger by removing the
spring eye-to-hanger bolts, nuts, and washers.
2. Move the axle forward or backward until it is
aligned within the tolerances in the rear axle
alignment checking section in this manual.
3. When the axle is in alignment, install axle align-
ment washers as needed between the mounting
eyes and the spring hanger. Install the bearing
washers, bolts, and locknuts. See Fig. 1. Tighten
the locknuts 190 lbf·ft (258 N·m).
03/08/93 f320315
Fig. 1
4. Check the axle alignment again. Repeat the
above procedure until alignment is within toler-
ances.

Troubleshooting
Problem—All Air Springs Are Flat

Low air pressure in the secondary air Check the air pressure gauge on the instrument panel. If secondary air
system. pressure is low, run the engine until at least 70 psi (482 kPa) is indicated.
Air is leaking from the air suspension Check for leakage from fittings, air lines, air springs, and the leveling valve.
system. Tighten loose fittings and clamps to stop leakage; replace worn or damaged
parts.
The leveling valve is out of adjustment. Adjust the leveling valve.
The leveling valve is inoperative. If upward movement of the overtravel lever on a properly adjusted valve fails
to inflate the air springs, replace the leveling valve.
The leveling valve linkage is damaged. Check for damage to the leveling valve linkage and overtravel lever. Repair or
replace damaged linkage parts.
Problem—Air Springs Deflate Rapidly When the Vehicle is Parked

Air is leaking from the air suspension Check for leakage from fittings, air lines, air springs, and the leveling valve.
system. Tighten loose fittings and clamps to stop leakage; replace worn or damaged
parts.
Problem—Vehicle Rides Too High or Too Low

Problem—Collapsed Air Spring

An air spring is punctured. Locate leaks by listening for escaping air, or by applying a soap and water
solution to the air spring and watching for bubbles. Repair punctures and cuts
that are less than 1/8 inch (3 mm). Replace the air spring if damage is greater.
Check the area around the damaged air spring for air spring contact with such
things as frame-mounted accessories, new tires and rims, tire chains, and
other components. Correct the problem areas as needed.
The air spring is continually or repeatedly Check the height of the air spring. Make sure the 6-3/4 ±1/8 inch (170 ±3 mm)
over-extended. air spring height is maintained. Adjust, if needed. Check for a broken shock
absorber. Replace, if broken.
Problem—Air Springs Do Not Fully Deflate When All Weight is Removed from the Suspension
The air line between the leveling valve Disconnect the leveling valve linkage, and move the overtravel lever down. If
and the air spring is restricted. the air spring remains inflated, check for a pinched or blocked line. Clean out
plugged lines; replace damaged lines.
The leveling valve is inoperative. If downward movement of the overtravel lever on a properly adjusted valve
fails to deflate the air springs, replace the leveling valve.

Specifications
For a plumbing diagram of the FAS 20 and FAS 40

air suspension system, see Fig. 1.
Torque Values
Description Size Torque
Height Control Valve Adjustment Locknut 1/4–20 62 lbf·in (700 N·cm)
Height Control Valve Mounting Bolt Nuts 5/8–16 14 lbf·ft (19 N·m)
Height Control Valve Linkage-to-Overall Lever Nut 1/4–20 12 lbf·ft (16 N·m)
Adjustment Block U-Bolt Stop Nuts 3/4–16 340 lbf·ft (461 N·m)
Adjustment Block-to-Spring Hexnut and Self-Locking Nut 1/2–20 100 lbf·ft (136 N·m)
Shock Absorber Locknuts 3/4–16 150 lbf·ft (203 N·m)
Air Spring Lower Mounting Capscrews 3/8–16 34 lbf·ft (46 N·m)
3/4–16 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m)
Air Spring Upper Mounting Locknuts
1/2–13 20 lbf·ft (27 N·m)
Crossmember U-Bolt High Nuts 1/2–20 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m)
Spring Mounting Nut Eye Bolt Locknuts 5/8–11 190 lbf·ft (258 N·m)
Stage 1: Hand Tighten
Stage 2: 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m) *
7/8–14
Stage 3: 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m) *
Stage 4: 420 to 500 lbf·ft (571 to 680 N·m)) *
Axle U-Bolt High Nuts
Stage 1: Hand tighten
Stage 2: 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m) *
1–14
Stage 3: 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m) *
Stage 4: 520 to 600 lbf·ft (707 to 816 N·m) *
Neoprene Sleeve Locknut 3/4–16 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m)
Spring Hanger Mounting Locknuts 3/4–10 370 lbf·ft (502 N·m)
Shock Absorber Upper Bracket Mounting Locknuts 1/2–13 95 lbf·ft (129 N·m)
Air Spring Upper Mounting Bracket Nuts 5/8–11 190 lbf·ft (258 N·m)
3/4–10 269 lbf·ft (365 N·m)
Spring Hanger Mounting Bolts 3/4–16 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m)
5/8–11 128 lbf·ft (173 N·m)
* Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown in Fig. 2.

Specifications
1
A
C
3
2
5 4
6 6
4 4
B
6 6
1
4 3
5
6 6
06/08/94 f320212a
A. Single Axle B. Tandem Axle C. to atmosphere
1. Secondary Air Reservoir 3. Height Control Valve 5. Elbow
2. Pressure Holding Valve 4. Tee 6. Air Spring

Specifications
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783

Rear Spring Suspension, Single-Axle 32.03
General Description
General Description
The single-axle rear spring suspension (Fig. 1) uses
a full-floating spring design. Semi-elliptical spring as-
semblies are attached to the axles with U-bolt as-
semblies.The spring ends ride in aluminum brackets
that are mounted on the frame rails. Steel wear
shoes are cast into each bracket. Radius rods at-
tached to the axle seats and the forward spring
brackets hold the axle in alignment.
2 1
3 10
1. Suspension Bracket Hexhead Bolt
2. Hardened Washer
3. Forward Spring Bracket
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut
4 2 1 5. Radius Rod Hex Locknut
11 2 6. Hardened Washer
12 7. Axle Alignment Washer
5 8. Radius Rod
6
9. Radius Rod Hexhead Bolt
4 2
10. U−Bolt
11. U−Bolt Pad
7 12. Spring Liner
13. Leaf Spring Assembly
6 13
14. Spring Seat
89
14 15. U−Bolt Retainer
6 16. Hardened Washer
9 18 17. U−Bolt High Nut
18. Rear Spring Bracket
6
5
15
16
17
f320006
Fig. 1, Single-Axle Spring Suspension

Radius Rod Removal and Installation
Removal (See Fig. 1) lastic® compound, or an equivalent, on the mat-

ing surfaces.
2. Note the number of axle alignment washers (Ref. CAUTION
4) at the forward end of the radius rod that is Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
being removed. equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
3. Remove the fasteners that attach the radius rod parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion
to the forward spring bracket and to the axle of the metals, resulting in damage to the suspen-
seat. sion.
4. Remove the radius rod and any axle alignment 1. Place the radius rod pins between the rear side
washers. of the forward spring bracket, and the front side
of the axle seat.
2. Install the hexhead bolts, hardened washers, and
12 3 4 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 2 1
locknuts in the axle seat and the radius rod rear
pin.
3. Install any previously removed axle alignment
washers between the radius rod front pin and the
forward spring bracket. Install the hexhead bolts,
hardened washers, and locknuts in the radius
Right−Side
Radius Rod rod front pin and the forward spring bracket.
4. Tighten the radius rod locknuts to the torque
12 3 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 2 1 value in Specifications, 400.
5. Check the axle alignment. For instructions, refer
to the rear axle section in this manual. If neces-
sary, adjust the rear axle alignment, using the
Left−Side
Radius Rod
1. Hex Locknut
2. Hardened Washer
3. Forward Spring Bracket
4. Alignment Washers
(Install only on one side;
right−side installation shown)
5. Radius Rod Front Pin
6. Hexhead Bolt
7. Radius Rod Rear Pin
8. Axle Seat
f320007
Fig. 1, Radius Rod Attachment (top view)

IMPORTANT: At all points where steel parts (in-
cluding bolts, washers, and nuts) contact the
aluminum forward spring bracket, apply Alumi-

Spring Assembly Replacement
Replacement (See Fig. 1) CAUTION

WARNING Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged age to the springs, spring brackets, and frame
leaf spring assembly; replace the complete rail.
spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
breaks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to periodic torquing. For suspension component
inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
is safe. Failure to replace a damaged spring as- vals and instructions, see Group 32 of the
sembly could cause an accident resulting in seri- Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual.
ous personal injury or property damage. 10. Install the wheel assembly, using the instructions
in Group 40. Remove the safety stands from
1. Chock the front tires. under the frame and axle, and lower the vehicle.
2. Raise the frame so that all weight is removed 11. Check the axle alignment. For instructions, see
from the leaf springs, then block the frame with Group 35. If necessary, adjust the rear axle
safety stands. Raise the rear axle until the spring alignment, using the instructions in Subject 130.
no longer contacts the spring bracket wear
shoes, then block the axle. Make sure the stands
will securely support the weight of the axles and
frame. To gain easy access to the suspension
system, remove the wheel assembly; refer to the
wheels and tires section in this manual for in-
structions.
3. Remove the U-bolt high nuts, hardened washers,
U-bolt retainer, U-bolts, and upper U-bolt pad.
4. Lift the spring assembly off the axle seat, then
move it to the rear, out of the forward spring
bracket. Lift the front of the spring, then move it
forward, out of the rear spring bracket.
5. Using chassis grease, lubricate the ends of the
new spring where they contact the stationary
wear shoes in the spring brackets.
6. Work the new spring assembly into the spring
brackets, and place it on the axle seat. Make
sure the spring center-bolt head seats in the axle
seat hole.
7. Place the upper U-bolt pad on the spring assem-
bly. Place the U-bolts over the upper U-bolt pad
and the spring assembly.
8. Install the U-bolt retainer, hardened washers, and
U-bolt high nuts.
9. Tighten the U-bolt high nuts in stages in a diago-
nal pattern as described in Section 32.03, Speci-
fications 400.

32.03 Rear Spring Suspension, Single-Axle
2 1
3 10
4 2 1
11 2
12
5
6
4 2
7
6 13
89
14
6
9 18
6
5
15
16
17
06/13/94 f320006a
1. Suspension Bracket Hexhead 7. Axle Alignment Washer 13. Leaf Spring Assembly
Bolt 8. Torque Arm 14. Spring Seat
2. Hardened Washer 9. Torque Arm Hexhead Bolt 15. U-Bolt Retainer
3. Forward Spring Bracket 10. U-Bolt 16. Hardened Washer
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 11. U-Bolt Pad 17. U-Bolt High Nut
5. Torque Arm Hexhead Bolt 12. Spring Liner 18. Rear Spring Bracket
6. Hardened Washer
Fig. 1, Single-Axle Spring Suspension

Spring Bracket Replacement
Replacement If installing the rear spring bracket, install the

nuts for the top two bolts on the outboard side
of the frame rail, and install the nuts for the bot-
WARNING tom two bolts on the inboard side of the frame
WARNING: Failure to replace worn, cracked, or rail. See Fig. 1.
damaged spring brackets could result in break- 6. Tighten the locknuts to the applicable torque
age of the bracket, which could cause a loss of value in Specifications, 400.
vehicle control, resulting in personal injury or
property damage.
NUT
IMPORTANT: At all points where steel parts (in- (outboard)
cluding bolts, washers, and nuts) contact the
aluminum spring brackets, apply Alumilastic®
compound, or an equivalent, on the mating sur-
faces. BOLT HEADS
(outboard)
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to apply Alumilastic com-
pound, or an equivalent, to areas where alumi-
num and steel parts contact each other, could Forward Spring Bracket
lead to corrosion of the metals, resulting in dam-
age to the suspension.
NUT
1. Chock the front tires. (outboard)
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and block the rear
axle with safety stands. Raise the vehicle frame BOLT HEAD
so that all weight is removed from the leaf (outboard)
springs, then block the frame with safety stands.
Make sure the stands will securely support the
weight of the axle and frame.
Rear Spring Bracket f320008
3. If removing the forward spring bracket, note the
number of axle alignment washers, if any, be- Fig. 1, Frame Brackets
tween the bracket and the radius rod front pin.
Remove the fasteners that attach the radius rod
to the bracket, and remove any axle alignment CAUTION
washers. CAUTION: Failure to periodically torque the sus-
4. Remove the fasteners that attach the spring pension fasteners can result in abnormal tire
bracket to the frame rail, and remove the spring wear, and damage to the springs, spring brack-
bracket. ets, and frame rail.
5. Place the new spring bracket on the frame rail. IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
Align the mounting holes, and install the spring periodic torquing. For suspension component
bracket bolts, hardened washers, and locknuts. inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
vals and instructions, refer to the suspension
NOTE: If installing the forward spring bracket,
section in the vehicle maintenance manual.
install the nuts for the top two bolts on the out-
board side of the frame rail, and install the nuts 7. If replacing the forward spring bracket, position
for the bottom four bolts on the inboard side of any previously removed axle alignment washers
the frame rail. See Fig. 1. between the bracket and the radius rod front pin.

32.03 Rear Spring Suspension, Single-Axle
Spring Bracket Replacement
Install the bolts, hardened washers, and locknuts

in the radius rod front pin and the forward spring
bracket. Tighten the locknuts to the torque value
in Specifications, 400.
and axle, and lower the vehicle.
9. Check the axle alignment. For instructions, refer
to the rear axle section in this manual. If neces-
sary, adjust the rear axle alignment, using the

Rear Axle Alignment Adjustment
Adjustment frame. Make sure the stands will support the

weight of the frame.
1. Using a straightedge and a tape measure, deter- 5. Move the loosened end of the axle forward or
mine the amount of adjustment needed to align backward as needed, by rolling the wheels.
the axle at a right angle to the frame. For instruc-
tions, refer to the rear axle section in this 6. Insert the correct thickness of axle alignment
manual. The difference in measurements be- washers between the radius rod front pin and the
tween the sides of the vehicle is the approximate forward spring bracket.
amount that the trailing end of the axle will have 7. Install the hexhead bolt, hardened washers, and
to be brought forward, or the leading end will locknut in the radius rod pin and forward spring
have to be moved back to align it at a right angle bracket. Place an equal thickness of washers on
to the frame. See Fig. 1. the other end of the radius rod pin, and install
NOTE: To adjust the axle alignment, add wash- the fasteners.
ers between the radius rod front pin and the for- 8. Tighten the locknuts to the applicable torque
ward spring bracket on the leading end, to ad- value in Specifications, 400.
just the leading end backward. Or, remove 9. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
washers from the trailing end, to bring the trail- Remove the chocks from the front tires.
ing end forward. When possible, alignment
washers should be removed instead of added. 10. Check the axle alignment with the straightedge
and the tape measure. If alignment is within
2. On both sides of the axle, loosen the axle specifications, center the spring in the forward
U-bolts enough to allow the springs to shift on spring bracket, if needed, then tighten the axle
the axle seats. U-bolt nuts to the torque value in Specifica-
3. On the side of the vehicle that is to be adjusted, tions, 400.
remove the fasteners that attach the radius rod If not in alignment, repeat the procedure above.
to the forward spring bracket. Remove any axle
alignment washers.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to periodically torque the sus-
Leading pension fasteners can result in abnormal tire
End wear, and damage to the springs, spring brack-
ets, and frame rail.
REAR AXLE
FRONT AXLE
vals and instructions, refer to the suspension
Trailing
End
f320009
Fig. 1, Single Axle, Shown Out of Alignment

4. Raise the frame just enough to relieve the weight
from the springs. Place safety stands under the

Specifications
Torque Values
Description Size IFI Grade Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Forward Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 3/4–10 C 240 (325)
Rear Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 5/8–11 C 135 (184)
Stage 2: 60 (81)
7/8–14 C
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Axle U-Bolt High Nuts (Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown Stage 4: 420–500 (571–680)
in Fig. 1) Stage 1: Hand tighten
Stage 2: 60 (81)
1–14 C
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 520–600 (707–816)
Radius Rod Locknut 5/8–18 C 135 (184)
* Cadmium-plated, wax-coated nuts, and grade 8 hexbolts with phosphate- and oil-coated threads; both used with hardened washers.
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783

Rear Spring Suspension, Tandem-Axle 32.04
General Description
1
2
3 10
22
2
4
11
12 2 2 4
1
6
8 10
5
6
18
7 13
9 14 19
5 6
6
1
11 2
6 12
5
2
4
15
16
7 20 13
17
6 9
14
2. Hardened Washer 21
3. Forward Spring Bracket 9
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 6 6
5. Radius Rod Hex Locknut 5
6. Hardened Washer
7. Axle Alignment Washer 15
8. Forward Radius Rod 16
9. Radius Rod Hexhead Bolt 16. Hardened Washer
10. U−Bolt 17. U−Bolt High Nut 17
11. U−Bolt Pad 18. Equalizer Bracket
12. Spring Liner 19. Equalizer, One−Piece (used with tandem drive axles)
13. Leaf Spring Assembly 20. Rear Radius Rod
14. Spring Seat 21. Rear Spring Bracket
15. U−Bolt Retainer 22. Equalizer, Three−Piece (used with a tag or pusher axle)
f320001
Fig. 1, Tandem-Axle Spring Suspension
The tandem-axle rear spring suspension uses a six- sates for axle articulation, from side to side, and front
point equalizing leaf spring design, which compen- to rear. Four semi-elliptical spring assemblies are

32.04 Rear Spring Suspension, Tandem-Axle
General Description
attached to the axles with U-bolts. On both sides of

the vehicle, the forward end of the forward spring
and the rear end of the rear spring ride in aluminum
brackets that are mounted on the frame rails. Steel
wear shoes are cast into each bracket.
At the center, between the forward and rear springs,
the springs ride on an equalizer, which pivots on a
sleeve in the equalizer bracket. Equalizer travel is
stopped when the top of the equalizer and equalizer
bracket make contact. Each axle is held in alignment
by a pair of radius rods that extend forward from the
axle seats to the forward spring brackets for the
forward-rear axle, and to the equalizer brackets for
the rearmost axle.


12 3 4 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
Forward Right−Side Rear Right−Side

Radius Rod Radius Rod
12 3 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 13 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
Forward Left−Side Rear Left−Side

1. Hex Locknut 5. Forward Spring Bracket 11. Rear Radius Rod Rear Pin
2. Hardened Washer 6. Hexhead Bolt 12. Rear Axle Seat
3. Forward Radius Rod Front Pin 7. Forward Radius Rod Rear Pin 13. Alignment Washer (Install
4. Alignment Washers (Install 8. Forward Axle Seat only on one side of rear axle;
only on one side of front axle; 9. Equalizer Bracket left−side installation shown)
right−side installation shown) 10. Rear Radius Rod Front Pin
f320002

CAUTION
2. Note the number of axle alignment washers (Ref.
4) at the forward end of each radius rod that is CAUTION: Failure to apply Alumilastic com-
being removed. pound, or an equivalent, to areas where alumi-
num and steel parts contact each other, could
3. Remove the fasteners that attach the radius rod
to the forward spring bracket or equalizer
age to the suspension.
bracket, and to the axle seat.
If installing forward and rear radius rods, install the
4. Remove the radius rod and any axle alignment forward radius rod before installing the rear radius
washers. rod.
1. If installing a forward radius rod, place the radius
Installation rod front pin on the front side of the forward
(See Fig. 1) spring bracket, and place the radius rod rear pin
in front of the axle seat.
IMPORTANT: At all points where steel parts (in- If installing a rear radius rod, place the radius rod
cluding bolts, washers, and nuts) contact alumi- pins between the rear side of the equalizer
num brackets, apply Alumilastic compound, or bracket and the front side of the axle seat.
an equivalent, on the mating surfaces.

2. Install a hexhead bolt with a hardened washer

through each end of the radius rod rear pin and
the axle seat ears. Install the hardened washers
and locknuts.
3. If installing a forward radius rod, install any previ-
ously removed axle alignment washers between
the radius rod front pin and the forward spring
bracket. Install the hexhead bolts, hardened
washers, and locknuts.
If installing a rear radius rod, install any previ-
ously removed axle alignment washers between
the radius rod front pin and the equalizer
bracket. Install the hexhead bolts, hardened
washers, and locknuts.
value in Specifications, 400.
5. After all of the radius rods are installed, check
the rear axle alignment. For instructions, refer to
the rear axle section in this manual. If necessary,
adjust the axle alignment, using the instructions
in Subject 140.

Equalizer Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal (See Fig. 1) If removing an equalizer from a vehicle with a

pusher or tag axle, remove the nuts from the flat-
head bolts in the wear-shoe side-restraints, on
each end of the equalizer. Remove the flathead
1 bolts and side-restraint sleeves. Remove the six
A
A 3 9 capscrews and washers, and remove both wear-
shoe side-restraints from the equalizer.
8 4. Remove the cap and tube assembly locknut, in-
6 7 5 board bearing washer, bolt, and outboard bearing
washer.
5. Insert a bar between the bottom of the equalizer
B 5
and the equalizer bracket. Gently lever the
4 11 10 weight of the equalizer off the cap and tube as-
3 sembly. Insert a piece of barstock through the
12 inboard cap and tube assembly bolt hole, and
2 13 lightly tap the cap and tube assembly out of the
3 equalizer.
6. Remove the equalizer from the equalizer bracket.
7 9 Remove the wear washer(s) and equalizer bush-
14 ings from the equalizer.
15
16
f320003a
03/11/96
Inspection
A. Apply Loctite here. B. No grease here.
1. Equalizer Bracket 10. Spring Retainer Pin 1. Thoroughly clean the equalizer with steam or a
2. Hexbolt 11. Cotter Pin hot soap solution. Inspect it for wear, cracks, or
3. Bearing Washer 12. Equalizer, Three-
4. Cap and Tube Piece (tag or pusher
other damage. Replace the equalizer if any of
Assembly axle) these conditions are present.
5. Equalizer Assembly 13. Capscrew
6.
Bushing
Equalizer, One-Piece
14. Wear-Shoe Side-
Restraint
WARNING
(tandem drive axles) 15. Side-Restraint WARNING: Replace a worn or damaged equalizer.
7. Grease Fitting Sleeve A broken equalizer could cause a loss of vehicle
8. Wear Washer(s) 16. Flathead Bolt
9. Locknut
control, resulting in personal injury or property
damage.
Fig. 1, Equalizer Assembly
2. Inspect the equalizer bushings, cap and tube as-
1. Chock the front tires. sembly, and the equalizer bracket. If wear,
cracks, or other damage are present, replace the
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and block the axles bushings, cap and tube assembly, or bracket.
with safety stands. Raise the vehicle frame so
that all weight is removed from the leaf springs,
then block the frame with safety stands. Make Installation (See Fig. 1)
sure the stands will securely support the weight
of the axles and frame. To allow access to the 1. Apply a thin film of multipurpose chassis grease
equalizer, remove the wheel assemblies on that to the outside of the equalizer bushings, then
side, using the instructions found in Group 40. install the bushings in the equalizer.
3. If removing an equalizer from a vehicle with two NOTE: The equalizer is not symmetrical. To en-
drive axles, remove the cotter pin from the out- sure that the equalizer is installed in the proper
board end of each spring retainer pin, then re- direction, an arrow is cast into its top surface.
move the retainer pins.

2. Install the equalizer in the equalizer bracket. 4. Push the cap and tube assembly part way
Make sure that the arrow cast into the top of the through the equalizer, then place the wear wash-
equalizer is pointing toward the frame rail. er(s) between the inboard equalizer bushing and
See Fig. 2. the equalizer bracket. Push the cap and tube
assembly the rest of the way into the equalizer
bracket.
5. Place the outboard bearing washer on the equal-
izer cap and tube assembly bolt, and install the
bolt in the cap and tube assembly.
6. Install the inboard bearing washer and locknut on
the cap and tube assembly bolt. Tighten the lock-
nut to the torque value in Specifications, 400.
7. Lubricate the equalizer assembly by applying
multipurpose chassis grease at the grease fitting.
Lubricate with a hand gun or pressure gun until
grease is forced past the bushing seals, or if
equipped with a pressure-relief grease fitting,
until grease is forced out from the base of the
pressure relief fitting.
8. If installing an equalizer on a vehicle with two
drive axles, apply Alumilastic compound, or an
equivalent, to the spring retainer pins; then install
them from the inboard side. Be sure the hooked
ends of the spring leaves are above the retainer
pins. Install a cotter pin in the outboard end of
each retainer pin, and lock it in place.
If installing an equalizer on a vehicle with a
pusher or tag axle, apply Alumilastic compound,
or an equivalent, to the surfaces where the wear-
12/12/95 f320474 shoe side-restraints contact the equalizer. Attach
the side-restraints to the equalizer, offsetting
Fig. 2, Equalizer Marking them toward the inboard side of the equalizer.
Tighten the equalizer wear-shoe capscrews to
NOTE: The next four steps must be completed the torque value in Specifications, 400. Install
before the Loctite begins to cure (approximately the side-restraint sleeves and flathead bolts in
5 to 10 minutes). the wear-shoe side-restraints. Be sure the
hooked ends of the spring leaves are above the
IMPORTANT: Be careful to prevent grease from side-restraint sleeves. Install the nuts, and
contacting the inboard surface of the cap and tighten them to the applicable torque value in
tube assembly, where the Loctite is applied. Specifications, 400.
3. Apply Loctite 680 to both interior surfaces of the
equalizer bracket, where the cap and tube as- CAUTION
sembly is inserted. Apply multipurpose chassis
grease to the cap and tube assembly, except the CAUTION: Failure to apply Alumilastic com-
last inch which connects to the equalizer bracket. pound, or an equivalent, to areas where alumi-
See Fig. 1, Ref. B. Start the cap and tube as- num and steel contact each other, could lead to
sembly into the equalizer, through the equalizer corrosion of the metals, resulting in suspension
bracket. damage.

9. Install the wheel assemblies, using the instruc-

tions found in Group 40. Remove the safety
stands from under the frame and axle, and lower
the vehicle.
10. If the radius rods have been loosened, or the
equalizer bracket has been removed, check the
rear axle alignment. For instructions, refer to
Group 35. If necessary, adjust the axle align-
ment using the instructions in Subject 140.

Replacement (See Fig. 1) 8. If the upper U-bolt pad is aluminum, apply Alumi-
lastic compound, or an equivalent, to those areas
of the pad that will come in contact with the
WARNING U-bolts and with the upper spring leaf.
Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged

leaf spring assembly; replace the complete CAUTION
spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
breaks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
other leaves. Replacement of only the visibly contact each other, could lead to corrosion of the
damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring metals, resulting in suspension damage.
is safe. Failure to replace a damaged spring as-
sembly could cause an accident resulting in seri- 9. Place the upper U-bolt pad on the spring assem-
ous personal injury or property damage. bly. Place the U-bolts over the upper U-bolt pad
and the spring assembly.
1. Chock the front tires.
10. Install the U-bolt retainer, hardened washers, and
2. Raise the frame so that all weight is removed U-bolt high nuts.
from the leaf springs; then block the frame with
safety stands. Raise the rear axle until the spring 11. If installing a spring assembly on a vehicle with
no longer contacts the spring bracket wear shoes two drive axles, apply Alumilastic compound, or
and the spring retainer pin (or side-restraint an equivalent, to the spring retainer pins, then
sleeve); then block the axle. Make sure the install them from the inboard side. Be sure the
stands will securely support the weight of the hooked ends of the spring leaves are above the
axles and frame. To access the spring assembly, retainer pins. Install a cotter pin in the outboard
remove the wheel assembly. See Group 40 for end of each retainer pin, and lock it in place.
instructions. If installing a spring assembly on a vehicle with a
3. If equipped with two drive axles, remove the cot- pusher or tag axle, install the side-restraint
ter pin from the spring retainer pin on the end of sleeves and flathead bolts in the wear-shoe side-
the equalizer where the spring is being replaced. restraints. Be sure the hooked ends of the spring
Drive the spring retainer pin out of the equalizer. leaves are above the side-restraint sleeves. In-
stall the nuts, and tighten them to the applicable
If equipped with a pusher or tag axle, remove the torque value in Specifications 400.
nut from the flathead bolt on the end of the
equalizer where the spring is being replaced. Re- 12. Tighten the U-bolt high nuts in stages in a diago-
move the bolt and the side-restraint sleeve from nal pattern as described in Specifications 400.
the wear-shoe side-restraint.
4. Remove the U-bolt high nuts, hardened washers,
CAUTION
U-bolt retainer, U-bolts, and upper U-bolt pad. Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
5. Remove the spring assembly by lifting it off the teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
axle seat, then moving it toward the equalizer, age to the springs, spring brackets, and frame
out of the forward or rear spring bracket. rail.
6. Using chassis grease, lubricate the new spring IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
assembly where the ends will contact the station- periodic torquing. For suspension component
ary wear shoes in the spring bracket and equal- inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
izer. vals and instructions, Group 32 of the Heavy-
7. Place the new spring assembly in the spring
Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual.
bracket and on the axle seat. Make sure the 13. Install the wheel assembly, using the instructions
spring center-bolt head seats in the axle seat in Group 40. Remove the safety stands from
hole. under the frame and axle, and lower the vehicle.

2 1
3 10
22
4 2
11
12 2 2 4
6 1
8 9 10
5
6
18
7 13
9 14 5 6 19
6
1
11 2
6 12
5
2
4
15
16
7 20 13
17
6
9
14
9 21
6 6
5
15
16
17
06/09/94 f320001a
1. Suspension Bracket Hexbolt 9. Torque Arm Hexbolt 17. U-Bolt High Nut
2. Hardened Washer 10. U-Bolt 18. Equalizer Bracket
3. Forward Spring Bracket 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Equalizer, One-Piece (tandem
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 12. Spring Liner drive axles)
5. Torque Arm Hex Locknut 13. Leaf Spring Assembly 20. Rear Torque Arm
6. Hardened Washer 14. Spring Seat 21. Rear spring Bracket
7. Axle Alignment Washer 15. U-Bolt Retainer 22. Equalizer, Three-Piece (tag or
8. Forward Torque Arm 16. Hardened Washer pusher axle)

14. Check the rear axle alignment. For instructions,

see Group 35. If necessary, adjust the axle
alignment, using the instructions in Subject 140.

Spring Bracket and Equalizer Bracket Replacement
1
2
3 10
22
2
4
11
12 2 2 4
1
6
8 10
5
6
18
7 13
9 14 19
5 6
6
1
11 2
6 12
5
2
4
15
16
7 20 13
17
6 9
14
2. Hardened Washer 21
3. Forward Spring Bracket 9
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 6 6
5. Radius Rod Hex Locknut 5
6. Hardened Washer
7. Axle Alignment Washer 15
8. Forward Radius Rod 16
9. Radius Rod Hexhead Bolt 16. Hardened Washer
10. U−Bolt 17. U−Bolt High Nut 17
11. U−Bolt Pad 18. Equalizer Bracket
12. Spring Liner 19. Equalizer, One−Piece (used with tandem drive axles)
13. Leaf Spring Assembly 20. Rear Radius Rod
14. Spring Seat 21. Rear Spring Bracket
15. U−Bolt Retainer 22. Equalizer, Three−Piece (used with a tag or pusher axle)
f320001

for the bottom four bolts on the inboard side of

WARNING the frame rail. See Fig. 2.
Failure to replace worn, cracked, or damaged If installing the equalizer bracket, for clearance,
spring brackets or equalizer brackets could result install all of the nuts on the inboard side of the
in breakage of the bracket, which could cause a frame rail. See Fig. 2.
loss of vehicle control, resulting in personal in-
jury or property damage. If installing the rear spring bracket, install the
nuts for the top two bolts on the outboard side
IMPORTANT: At all points where steel parts (in- of the frame rail, and install the nuts for the bot-
cluding bolts, washers, and nuts) contact the tom two bolts on the inboard side of the frame
aluminum spring brackets, apply Alumilastic rail. See Fig. 2.
compound, or an equivalent, on the mating sur- 7. Tighten the bracket mounting locknuts to the ap-
faces. plicable torque value in Specifications, 400.
CAUTION CAUTION
Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion age to the springs, spring brackets, and frame
of the metals, resulting in damage to the suspen- rail.
sion.
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and block the axles inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
with safety stands. Raise the vehicle frame so vals and instructions, see Group 32 of the
that all weight is removed from the leaf springs, Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual.
then block the frame with safety stands. Make
sure the stands will securely support the weight 8. When replacing the forward spring bracket or
of the axles and frame. equalizer bracket, install any previously removed
axle alignment washers between the forward ra-
3. If removing the forward spring bracket or the dius rod front pin and the forward spring bracket,
equalizer bracket, note the number of any axle or between the rear radius rod front pin and the
alignment washers, then remove the fasteners equalizer bracket, as applicable. See Fig. 3.
that attach the radius rod to the forward spring
bracket or equalizer bracket. Remove any axle Install bolts with hardened washers in the radius
alignment washers. rod front pin, and the forward spring bracket or
equalizer bracket. Install the hardened washers
4. If removing an equalizer bracket, remove the and locknuts, and tighten the locknuts to the
equalizer. For instructions, see Subject 110. torque value in Specifications 400.
5. Remove the fasteners that attach the forward or 9. If replacing an equalizer bracket, install the
rear spring bracket, or equalizer bracket, to the equalizer. For instructions, see Subject 110.
frame rail. Remove the bracket.
6. Place the new spring bracket or equalizer and axle, and lower the vehicle.
bracket on the frame rail. Align the mounting
holes, and install the bracket bolts, hardened 11. Check the rear axle alignment. For instructions,
washers, and locknuts. see Group 35 of this manual. If necessary,adjust
the axle alignment, using the instructions in Sub-
NOTE: If installing the forward spring bracket, ject 140.
install the nuts for the top two bolts on the out-
board side of the frame rail, and install the nuts

NUT
(outboard)
BOLT HEADS
(outboard)
Forward Spring Bracket
BOLT HEADS
(outboard)
Equalizer Bracket
NUT
(outboard)
BOLT HEAD
(outboard)
Rear Spring Bracket f320004
Fig. 2, Frame Brackets

12 3 4 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
Forward Right−Side Rear Right−Side

12 3 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 13 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
Forward Left−Side Rear Left−Side

1. Hex Locknut 5. Forward Spring Bracket 11. Rear Radius Rod Rear Pin
2. Hardened Washer 6. Hexhead Bolt 12. Rear Axle Seat
3. Forward Radius Rod Front Pin 7. Forward Radius Rod Rear Pin 13. Alignment Washer (Install
4. Alignment Washers (Install 8. Forward Axle Seat only on one side of rear axle;
only on one side of front axle; 9. Equalizer Bracket left−side installation shown)
right−side installation shown) 10. Rear Radius Rod Front Pin
f320002

Adjustment
Leading Trailing
1. Using a straightedge and a tape measure, deter- End End
mine the amount of adjustment needed to align
the forward-rear axle at a right angle to the
frame. For instructions, refer to the rear axle sec-
tion in this manual. The difference in measure-
ments between the sides of the vehicle is the FORWARD REARMOST
FRONT AXLE REAR AXLE AXLE
approximate amount that the trailing end of the
forward-rear axle will have to be brought forward,
or the leading end will have to be moved back to
align it at a right angle to the frame. See Fig. 1.
If the forward-rear axle alignment is within speci- Trailing Leading
fications, go to the step that begins "Using a End End
center-point bar, determine...".
2. Chock the front tires. On both sides of the f320005
forward-rear axle, loosen the axle U-bolts
enough to allow the springs to shift on the axle Fig. 1, Tandem Axle, Shown Out of Alignment
seats. 8. Tighten the radius rod locknuts to the torque
3. On the side of the vehicle that is to be adjusted, value in Specifications, 400.
remove the fasteners that attach the forward ra- 9. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
dius rod to the forward spring bracket. Remove
any axle alignment washers. 10. Check the forward-rear axle alignment with the
straightedge and the tape measure. If alignment
NOTE: To adjust the forward-rear axle align- is within specifications, center the spring in the
ment, add alignment washers between the ra- forward spring bracket, if needed, then tighten
dius rod and the forward spring bracket on the the axle U-bolt nuts to the torque value in Speci-
leading end, to adjust the leading end back- fications, 400.
ward. Or, remove alignment washers from the If not in alignment, repeat all of the steps above.
trailing end, to bring the trailing end forward.
When possible, alignment washers should be
removed instead of added. CAUTION
4. Raise the frame just enough to relieve the weight CAUTION: Failure to periodically torque the sus-
from the springs. Place safety stands under the pension fasteners can result in abnormal tire
frame. Make sure the stands will securely sup- wear, and damage to the springs, spring brack-
port the weight of the frame. ets, and frame rail.
5. Move the loosened end of the axle forward or IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
backward as needed, by rolling the wheels. periodic torquing. For suspension component
6. Between one end of the radius rod front pin and
the forward spring bracket, insert the correct vals and instructions, refer to the suspension
thickness of axle alignment washers needed to section in the vehicle maintenance manual.
bring the forward-rear axle into alignment. Install 11. Using a center-point bar, determine the differ-
the hexhead bolt, hardened washers, and locknut ence between the forward-rear and the rearmost
in the radius rod pin and forward spring bracket. axles’ center-to-center measurements on each
7. Place an equal thickness of washers on the side of the vehicle. For instructions, refer to the
other end of the radius rod pin, and install the rear axle section in this manual. This difference
fasteners. is the approximate distance that the leading end
of the rearmost axle will have to be adjusted

rearward, or that the trailing end will have to be 20. Using the center-point bar, check the rearmost
adjusted forward, to align it at a right angle to the axle alignment. If alignment is within specifica-
frame, and to align it parallel to the forward-rear tions, center the spring in the rear spring bracket,
axle. See Fig. 1. if needed, then tighten the axle U-bolt nuts to the
applicable torque value in Specifications, 400.
12. On both sides of the rearmost axle, loosen the
axle U-bolts enough to allow the springs to shift If not in alignment, repeat the applicable steps
on the axle seats. above.
13. On the side of the vehicle that is to be adjusted,
remove the fasteners that attach the rear radius CAUTION
rod to the equalizer bracket. Remove any axle
alignment washers. CAUTION: Failure to periodically torque the sus-
pension fasteners can result in abnormal tire
14. Raise the frame just enough to relieve the weight wear, and damage to the springs, spring brack-
from the springs. Place safety stands under the ets, and frame rail.
frame. Make sure the stands will securely sup-
port the weight of the frame. IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
15. Move the loosened end of the axle forward or inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
backward, by rolling the wheels. Move the axle vals and instructions, refer to the suspension
just enough to provide space to allow installation
of alignment washers between the equalizer
bracket and the radius rod pin.
16. Between one end of the radius rod pin and the
equalizer bracket, insert the additional thickness
of alignment washers needed to make up for the
difference in center-point bar measurements.
For example, if one end of the axle was
equipped with a 3/16-inch (4.5-mm) thickness of
washers, and the difference in the center-point
bar measurements is 1/4 inch (6 mm) less on
that side, add an additional 1/4 inch (6 mm) of
washers (for a total of 7/16 inch [10.5 mm]) to
correct the alignment.
Or, if one end of the axle was equipped with a
1/4-inch thickness of washers, and the difference
in center-point bar measurements is 3/16 inch
(4.5 mm) more on that side, install a 1/16-inch
(1.6-mm) thickness of washers in place of the
1/4-inch (6-mm) thickness.
17. Install the bolt, hardened washers, and locknut in
the equalizer bracket and the radius rod pin.
Place an equal thickness of alignment washers
on the other end of the radius rod pin, and install
the fasteners at that end.
19. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
Remove the chocks from the front tires.

Specifications
Torque Values
Torque
Description Size IFI Grade
lbf·ft (N·m)
Equalizer Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 3/4–10 C 240 (325)
Forward Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 3/4–10 C 240 (325)
Rear Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 5/8–11 C 135 (184)
Stage 2: 60 (81) †
7/8–14 C Stage 3: 200 (271) †
Stage 4: 420 to 500 (571 to
680) †
U-bolt High Nuts
Stage 2: 60 (81) †
1–14 C Stage 3: 200 (271) †
Stage 4: 520 to 600 (707 to
816) †
Radius Rod Locknut * 5/8–18 C 135 (184)
Equalizer Cap and Tube Assembly Locknut * 3/4– 16 C 270 (365)
Equalizer Wear Shoe Capscrew 5/8–11 8 135 (184)
Side-Restraint Sleeve Locknut 1/2–13 C 68 (93)
* Cadmium-plated, wax-coated nuts, and grade 8 hexbolts with phosphate- and oil-coated threads; both used with hardened washers.
† Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown in Fig. 1.
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783

Freightliner AirLiner Suspension 32.05
General Information
General Information 2
The Freightliner AirLiner Suspension is a single axle

or tandem axle suspension that uses a combination 3
of air and leaf springs. The suspension is manufac-
tured at numerous weight ratings up to 46,000 4
pounds (20 865 kg). The top of the air spring is 1
bolted to a bracket on the frame rail, or through the
bottom flange of the frame rail; the bottom is bolted
5
to the rear end of the tapered leaf spring assembly
or, for the 23,000-pound (10 433 kg) and 46,000- 6
pound suspensions, to a cross bar. The axle housing
is fastened to the leaf spring assembly by U-bolts. A
control rod, mounted between the axle housing and 7
the frame rail, can be used to help locate the assem-
bly laterally.
The air springs compensate for changes in road con-
ditions and vehicle load, maintaining vehicle height. 08/15/97 f320558
The air springs also absorb road shock. 1. Forward Drive Axle 5. Horizontal Control
A height-control valve (Fig. 1) regulates the air flow 2. Valve Mounting Lever
into or out of all the air springs. As the air spring Bracket 6. Stud Bolt
3. Height-Control Valve 7. Vertical Linkage
compresses or expands, changes in the clearance
4. Neutral-Position Hole
between the vehicle frame and the axle housing acti-
vate the height-control valve.
Fig. 1, Barksdale Height-Control Valve Assembly
A pressure holding valve, located in the air line to the
height-control valve, is preset to maintain a minimum
pressure of 65 psi (448 kPa) in the vehicle second-
ary air system if a leak should occur in the air sus-
pension system.

The height-control valve controls the air suspension
system. All of the air in the system is admitted
through or exhausted from this valve.
The height-control valve is mounted on the frame rail
or the rear frame crossmember. A horizontal control
lever extends from the end of the height-control valve
control shaft to a vertical linkage that connects to a
bracket welded to the differential housing; see Fig. 1.
When the load changes, the horizontal control lever
turns the height-control valve control shaft, activating
either the intake or exhaust function of the valve.
This adjusts the volume of air in the air springs, until
the frame returns to the normal ride height, and the
horizontal control lever returns to the (horizontal)
neutral position.
4
5
3 2
7
8
01/15/98 f320121a
1. Height-Control Valve 4. Cotter Pin 7. L-Rod
2. Adjustment Locknut 5. Linkage Adjustment Clamp 8. Height-Control Valve Linkage
3. Horizontal Control Lever 6. Vertical Linkage Rod Bracket
Fig. 1, Height-Control Valve Linkage (WABCO shown)

General Guidelines
General Guidelines
To keep the air suspension system operating reliably,
the air system must be kept free of any oil, moisture,
or foreign material. Inspect and maintain the air sys-
tem components regularly. Refer to the vehicle main-
tenance manual for maintenance operations.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to take precautions against
the entry of moisture, oil, or other foreign mate-
rial into the air suspension system could eventu-
ally lead to sludge forming in the air system.
Sludge could adversely affect the operation of
the air suspension system and other air system
components.
Use only SAE grade 8 flanged bolts and grade G
prevailing torque flanged locknuts to attach spring
hangers and brackets to the frame.
For suspension component inspecting, lubricating,
and fastener torque checking intervals and instruc-
tions, refer to the maintenance schedule and the sus-
pension section in the vehicle maintenance manual.

Suspension Ride Height Adjustment
Ride Height Adjustment 2
NOTICE 3
Failure to adjust the suspension ride height
4
could adversely affect driveline angles. Also, if
the air springs are set too high, the driver may 1
have difficulty (or be prevented from) backing the
vehicle under a trailer. If the air springs are set 5
too low, rapid wear of suspension parts will re-
sult. 6
The height-control valve make and installation may
vary. Use the applicable procedure to adjust the sus- 7
pension height.
• Vehicle with a Barksdale Valve
• Vehicle with a Meritor WABCO Valve Adjust-
able Installation 08/15/97 f320558
• Vehicle with a Meritor WABCO Valve Fixed In- 1. Forward Drive Axle 5. Horizontal Control
stallation 2. Valve Mounting Lever
Bracket 6. Stud Bolt
The Barksdale height-control valve replaced the 3. Height-Control Valve 7. Vertical Linkage Rod
Meritor WABCO valve after July 25, 1997. On ve- 4. Neutral-Position Hole
hicles with tandem-axle AirLiner rear suspensions,
the Barksdale vertical linkage rod is attached to the Fig. 1, Barksdale Height-Control Valve Installation
forward drive axle instead of the rearmost drive axle,
and the valve is mounted on the frame rail; see NOTE: The stud bolt that fastens the horizontal
Fig. 1. control lever to the vertical is oriented correctly
when the linkage rod is vertical as viewed from
There are two types of WABCO height-control valve
the side of the vehicle; see Fig. 3.
installations: adjustable and fixed. See Fig. 2. On
adjustable installations, the suspension height is 3. Measure the distance between the left forward
changed by tilting the height-control valve up or most axle stop and the suspension as indicated.
down. On fixed installations, the suspension height is See Suspension Ride Height Measurement,
changed by adjusting the length of the vertical link- Table 1, Table 2, Table 3, Table 4, and Table 5
age rod. for an acceptable range of heights for each sus-
pension.
Vehicle with a Barksdale Valve IMPORTANT: Suspensions with Dual-Leaf
IMPORTANT: Before checking the suspension Springs, and all Vehicles built before August
height, make sure there is no load on the chas- 24, 2001: Measure between the top of the
sis. For tractors, unhitch the trailer. Trucks must U-bolt and the bottom of the axle stop (distance
be empty. A).
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, using a light Suspensions with Single-Leaf Springs, built
application of the brakes. Do not apply the park- after August 24, 2001: Measure between the
ing brakes. Put the transmission in neutral. Build top of the U-bolt pad and the bottom of the axle
the secondary air pressure to at least 100 psi stop (distance B).
(690 kPa). Shut down the engine.
4. If the distance is within the acceptable range, the
2. Mark the location of the front and rear tires on ride height is adjusted correctly. Apply the park-
the floor, then chock the tires on one axle only. ing brakes.

32.05 Freightliner AirLiner Suspension
If the measurement is not within the acceptable 5. While holding the height-control valve mounting
range, go to the next step. studs in place with an Allen wrench, loosen the
nuts that attach the valve to the mounting
bracket.
12/20/2005 f320838b
Suspension Height 09/28/2005 f321046a
Measure Point Measurement (A)

Suspension Height
Min Target Max
Measure Point Measurement (A)
2-3/8 inch 2-5/8 inch 2-7/8 inch
A = Measure Here Min Target Max
(60 mm) (67 mm) (73 mm)
Table 1, Suspension Ride Height Measurement, Dual- 2-3/4 inch 3 inch 3-1/4 inch
A = Measure Here
Leaf Spring, 20k/40k High Ride (70 mm) (76 mm) (83 mm)
Table 2, Suspension Ride Height Measurement, Dual-
Leaf Spring, 23k/46k/69k High Ride
NOTICE
When loosening a Barksdale height-control valve 6. Adjust the position of the valve body, until the
from a mounting bracket, always hold the valve- distance from the bottom of the left axle stop to
side mounting studs in place with an Allen the top of the U-bolt or U-bolt pad is the target
wrench while loosening or tightening the nuts measurement from the applicable Suspension
that attach the valve to the bracket. Because the Ride Height Measurement table.
mounting studs are threaded into the valve body,
loosening the nuts without holding the studs can 7. Center the horizontal control lever on the valve
tighten the studs, which can crush the valve by inserting a 5/32-inch (4-mm) pin or drill bit into
body and damage the valve. Conversely, tighten- the neutral-position hole in the height-control
ing the nuts without holding the studs can back valve and the horizontal control lever.
the studs out, causing a separation of the two
halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.

A B
09/27/2005 f320933a
Suspension Height Measurement (A or B)

Measure Point
Min Target Max
A = Measure Here if Built Before August 24, 2001
2-3/8 inch (60 mm) 2-5/8 inch (67 mm) 2-7/8 inch (73 mm)
B = Measure Here if Built After August 24, 2001
Table 3, Suspension Ride Height Measurement, Single-Leaf Spring, 20k/40k, High Ride Height
8. While holding the height-control valve mounting IMPORTANT: Suspensions with Dual-Leaf
studs in place with an Allen wrench, tighten the Springs, and all Vehicles built before August
nuts 95 lbf·in (1100 N·cm). Do not overtighten. 24, 2001: Measure between the top of the
9. Remove the pin or drill bit previously inserted in U-bolt and the bottom of the axle stop (distance
the height-control valve. A).
10. Drive the vehicle unloaded for about 1/4 mile Suspensions with Single-Leaf Springs, built
(1/2 km), then stop the vehicle in the exact loca- after August 24, 2001: Measure between the
tion (as previously marked) of the original mea- top of the U-bolt pad and the bottom of the axle
surement. stop (distance B).
Park the vehicle using a light brake application. 12. If the distance is within the acceptable range,
Chock the tires on one axle only, and put the ride height is adjusted correctly. Apply the park-
transmission in neutral. Do not apply the parking ing brakes.
brakes.
If the distance is not within the acceptable range,
11. Check the distance between the bottom of the repeat the adjustment procedure.
left axle stop and the top of the axle U-bolt or
U-bolt pad.

A B
09/27/2005 f320934a

Measure Point
Min Target Max
Table 4, Suspension Ride Height Measurement, Single-Leaf Spring, 10k/12k/15k/18k Mid Ride Height and 40k Low
and Mid Ride Height
Vehicle with a Meritor WABCO 3.1 Loosen the adjustment locknut on the con-
trol shaft.
Valve Adjustable Installation 3.2 Move the horizontal control lever fore or
IMPORTANT: Before checking the AirLiner sus- aft until the length between the pivot
pension height, make sure there is no load on points is 8 inches (203 mm).
the chassis. For tractors, unhitch the trailer. 3.3 Tighten the adjustment locknut 62 lbf·in
Trucks must be empty. (700 N·cm).
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, using a light 4. AirLiner suspensions may have one of three
application of the brakes. Do not apply the park- types of axle seats; see Fig. 5.
ing brakes. Put the transmission in neutral. Build
the secondary air pressure to at least 100 psi The three styles are:
(690 kPa). Shut down the engine. • a one-piece, cast axle seat, that is not
2. Mark the location of the front and rear tires on welded to the axle housing;
the floor, then chock the tires on one axle only. • a one-piece, cast axle seat, that is welded
3. Check the length of the horizontal control lever to the axle housing;
between its pivot points. See Fig. 4. The length • a two-piece, fabricated axle seat that is
should be 8 inches (203 mm). If needed, adjust welded to the axle housing.
the length of the horizontal control lever.

A B
11/11/2005 f320932a

Measure Point
Min Target Max
Table 5, Suspension Ride Height Measurement, Single-Leaf Spring, 10k/12k/15k Low or Extra Low Ride Height
IMPORTANT If the axle seat is a two-piece tance from the bottom of the left forwardmost
welded type, subtract 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the axle stop to the top of the axle U-bolt is 2 inches
minimum, target, and maximum heights when (51 mm) or less.
adjusting the suspension height. 9. Rotate the height-control valve counterclockwise,
5. Measure the distance from the bottom of the left and raise the suspension height to the target
forwardmost axle stop to the top of the axle height (previously noted from the appropriate
U-bolt; see Table 1, Table 2, Table 3, Table 4, table). Stop the air flow to the air bag by rotating
and Table 5 for an acceptable range of heights the height-control valve clockwise.
for each suspension. 10. Center the height-control valve.
6. If the distance is within the acceptable range, 10.1 Rotate the valve very slightly clockwise
ride height is adjusted correctly. Apply the park- and counterclockwise until you can insert
ing brakes. a 5/32-inch (4-mm) pin or drill bit into the
If the distance is not within the acceptable range, valve centering hole. Don’t rotate the
go to the next step. valve too much, or you will change the
suspension height.
7. Loosen the two fasteners that attach the height-
control valve to the mounting bracket. 10.2 Tighten the height-control valve mounting
fasteners firmly.
8. Rotate the height-control valve clockwise (as you
are facing it from the driver’s side of the vehicle). 11. Drive the vehicle unloaded for about 1/4 mile
Let the air exhaust from the valve until the dis- (1/2 km), then stop the vehicle in the exact loca-

2 2
4 5
A B
1
3 3
05/05/94 f320385
A. Adjustable Installation B. Fixed Installation
1. Height-Control Valve 4. Slotted Hole
2. Mounting Bracket 5. Round Hole
3. Height-Control Valve Mounting Fasteners
Fig. 2, Meritor WABCO Height-Control Valve Installation
tion (as previously marked) of the original mea- 13. If the distance is not within the acceptable range,
surement. repeat the adjustment procedure.
Park the vehicle using a light brake application. If the distance is within the acceptable range,
Chock the tires on one axle only, and put the ride height is adjusted correctly. Apply the park-
transmission in neutral. Do not apply the parking ing brakes.
brakes.
12. Check the adjusted distance between the bottom Vehicle With a Meritor WABCO
of the left forwardmost axle stop and the top of
the axle U-bolt. It should be within the accept-
Valve Fixed Installation
able range for the applicable suspension previ- IMPORTANT: Before checking the AirLiner sus-
ously noted. pension height, make sure there is no load on
the chassis. For tractors, unhitch the trailer.

A
1 2 1
3
2
5 3
7
B
4 6
01/12/2000 f320562a 12/04/95 f320361
1. Valve Mounting 3. Stud Bolt A. Measure the length of the horizontal control lever
Bracket 4. Linkage Rod between these two points.
2. Height-Control Valve 5. Axle B. Measure the length of the vertical linkage rod
between these two points.
Fig. 3, Barksdale Height-Control Valve Installation (side 1. Height-Control Valve 4. Cotter Pin
view) 2. Adjustment Locknut 5. Adjustment Clamp
3. Horizontal Control 6. Vertical Linkage
Trucks must be empty. In order to adjust the Lever 7. Valve Centering Hole
suspension height, you must change the length
of the vertical linkage rod using the following Fig. 4, Meritor WABCO Height-Control Valve Horizontal
procedure. Control Lever and Vertical Linkage Rod Measurement
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, using a light 3.1 Loosen the adjustment locknut on the con-
application of the brakes. Do not apply the park- trol shaft.
ing brakes. Put the transmission in neutral. Build
3.2 Move the horizontal control lever fore or
the secondary air pressure to at least 100 psi
aft until it is the correct length.
(690 kPa). Shut down the engine.
2. Mark the location of the front and rear tires on 3.3 Tighten the adjustment locknut 62 lbf·in
the floor, then chock the tires on one axle only. (700 N·cm).
3. Check the length of the height-control valve hori- 4. Measure the distance from the bottom of the left
zontal control lever; see Fig. 4. See Table 6 for forwardmost axle stop to the top of the axle
the correct length. U-bolt. See Suspension Ride Height Measure-
ment, Table 1, Table 2, Table 3, Table 4, and
If the length is acceptable, go to the next step. Table 5 for an acceptable range of heights for
each suspension.
If the length is not acceptable, adjust the length
of the horizontal control lever as follows.

If the distance is within the acceptable range,

ride height is adjusted corrcetly. Apply the park-
ing brakes. 1
If the distance is not within the acceptable range,

go to the next step.
5. Determine how much the suspension height
needs to be adjusted so the distance matches
the target height in the applicable table. Then,
using Table 7, find the amount that the length of
the vertical linkage rod needs to be changed;
see Fig. 4.
6. Adjust the length of the vertical linkage rod as
needed, adding or subtracting the amount shown A
in Table 7.
NOTE: If the vertical linkage rod is too short, 1
replace it with a new rod, part number 16–
13485–000. The vertical linkage rod should
be long enough so that at least 1/2 inch (13
mm) of it fits into both flexible end-sections
of the linkage. 2
2
6.1 Mark the existing length of the vertical
linkage rod between the upper and lower
flexible end-sections of the linkage; see
Fig. 4.
6.2 Loosen both linkage adjustment clamps.
B
6.3 Slide the flexible end-sections of the link-
age over the linkage rod until the rod is
the correct length. 1
To increase the suspension height,
lengthen the vertical linkage rod; to de-
crease the suspension height, shorten the 2
rod. 2
6.4 Tighten the adjustment clamps.

7. Drive the vehicle unloaded for about 1/4 mile
(1/2 km), then stop the vehicle in the exact loca-
tion (as previously marked) of the original mea-
surement.
Park the vehicle using a light brake application.
Chock the tires on one axle only, and put the C
transmission in neutral. Don’t apply the parking 11/09/95 f350132a
brakes. A. One-Piece Cast Axle Seat, Not Welded
B. One-Piece Cast Axle Seat, Welded
8. Check the distance between the bottom of the C. Two-Piece Fabricated Axle Seat, Welded
left forwardmost axle stop and the top of the axle
U-bolt. 1. Axle Housing 2. Welds
Fig. 5, Axle Seats

9. If the distance is within the acceptable range, Vertical Linkage Length Changes
ride height is adjusted correctly. Apply the park-
ing brakes. Suspension Height Vertical Linkage Length
Correction: inches (mm) Correction: inches (mm)
If the distance is not within the acceptable range, 1 (25) 1-5/16 (33)
repeat the adjustment procedure.
Table 7, Vertical Linkage Lengths
Horizontal Lever Length
Horizontal Control Lever
Axle Designation
Length: inches (mm)
Meritor RS23–161 8 (203)
Meritor 23–180 7-3/8 (187)
Meritor SQ100 9-1/4 (235)
Meritor SSHD 9 (229)
Meritor RT40–145 9-3/4 (248)
Meritor RT44–145 9-3/4 (248)
Meritor RT46–160 8-1/8 (206)
Eaton 23105 SC 7-1/4 (184)
Eaton 402 8-3/8 (213)
Eaton 404 8-3/8 (213)
Eaton 461 8-3/8 (213)
Table 6, Horizontal Control Lever Length
Vertical Linkage Length Changes

Suspension Height Vertical Linkage Length
Correction: inches (mm) Correction: inches (mm)
1/16 (2) 1/16 (2)
1/8 (3) 3/16 (5)
3/16 (5) 1/4 (6)
1/4 (6) 5/16 (8)
5/16 (8) 3/8 (10)
3/8 (10) 1/2 (13)
7/16 (11) 9/16 (14)
1/2 (13) 5/8 (16)
9/16 (14) 3/4 (19)
5/8 (16) 13/16 (21)
11/16 (17) 7/8 (22)
3/4 (19) 1 (25)
13/16 (21) 1-1/16 (27)
7/8 (22) 1-3/16 (30)
15/16 (24) 1-1/4 (32)

Height-Control Valve Checking
Height-Control Valve Checking valve body and damage the valve. Conversely,
tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
back the studs out, causing a separation of the
It is normal to hear air escaping from the height-
two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
control valve for as much as 10 minutes after getting
out of the vehicle when it is in an unladen condition.
This air "leaking" is just the height-control valve ex- Checking the Height-Control
hausting air from the suspension air springs in order
to return to the neutral mode.
Valve Without Using a Test Kit
The height-control valves used on the Heavy-Duty 1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.
Trucks are Barksdale or Meritor WABCO valves. Two
methods are available to check the operation of the 2. Run the engine to build vehicle air pressure to at
Barksdale height-control valves. A leak in the valve least 100 psi (690 kPa).
may be discovered without using a test kit, but a test 3. Shut off the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes for
kit is necessary to determine if the valve has an un- the air suspension system to equalize.
acceptable rate of leakage. WABCO valves can only
be checked without a test kit. NOTE: Normal operation of the height-control
valve requires a maximum of 10 minutes to
Some Barksdale height-control valves have been re- settle. Any air leakage during this time is consid-
turned for warranty because the four bolts in the ered normal, and does not indicate a defective
valve housing were overtightened, often, enough to
valve.
crack the valve housing. These bolts should not be
loose, and should not normally require tightening, as 4. Disconnect the vertical linkage from the control
there are no serviceable parts in the valve. lever; see Fig. 1 or Fig. 2.
IMPORTANT: To prevent voiding the warranty
on Barksdale height-control valves, note the fol- 2
lowing:
• Do not overtighten the bolts in the Barks- 3
dale height-control valve housing if you
4
detect leaks in the housing. The bolts
1
should not be loose, and should not re-
quire tightening. Only if necessary, tighten
the valve housing bolts 45 lbf·in (500 5
N·cm). Any damage to the valve housing
will void the warranty. 6
• Do not attempt to disassemble the Barks-

dale valve body or the control lever. There 7
are no serviceable parts in the valve, and
any disassembly will void the warranty.
NOTICE 08/15/97 f320558
1. Forward Drive Axle 5. Horizontal Control

When removing or loosening a Barksdale height- 2. Valve Mounting Lever
control valve from a mounting bracket, always Bracket 6. Stud Bolt
hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with 3. Height-Control Valve 7. Vertical Linkage
an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the 4. Neutral-Position Hole
nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because
the mounting studs are threaded into the valve Fig. 1, Barksdale Height-Control Valve Installation
body, loosening the nuts without holding the
studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the

NOTE: If a leak is detected on a Barksdale

height-control valve, go to "Checking the Height-
Control Valve Using a Test Kit". Barksdale
valves have an acceptable leak rate of 3 cubic
3 inches (50 cc) per minute. You can determine if
a leak is acceptable only by using the Barksdale
2 A
A test kit.
If a leak is detected at the exhaust port on a
6 WABCO height-control valve, the valve is defec-
5 4
tive. Replace it, following the procedure in Sub-
B ject 130.
C
1 7
Checking the Height-Control
07/26/94 f310354a
A. To air springs. C. Disconnect here.
Valve Using a Test Kit
B. To atmosphere.
IMPORTANT: The procedure described below is
1. Secondary Air Reservoir
for use on Barksdale height-control valves only.
3. Height-Control Valve NOTE: The Barksdale field test kit is designed
4. Adjusting Locknut to be used with the height-control valve installed
5. Horizontal Control Lever
6. Linkage Adjustment Clamp on the vehicle. Refer to Specifications 400 for
7. Vertical Linkage information on ordering the Barksdale height-
control valve test kit KD2264.
Fig. 2, Meritor WABCO Height-Control Valve Installation
1. If not already done, park the vehicle on a level
5. Pull the control lever up about 45 degrees for 6 surface, apply the parking brakes, and chock the
to 8 seconds. If air passes through the valve, tires.
that section of the valve is working. 2. Run the engine to build vehicle air pressure to at
6. Return the control lever to the neutral position. least 100 psi (690 kPa).
Air should stop flowing. If so, that section of the 3. Shut off the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes for
valve is working. the air suspension system to equalize.
7. Push the control lever down about 45 degrees NOTE: Normal operation of the height-control
for 6 to 8 seconds. If air exhausts from the valve, valve requires a maximum of 10 minutes to
that section of the valve is working. settle. Any air leakage during this time is consid-
8. Return the control lever to the neutral position. If ered normal, and does not indicate a defective
the air stops again in the neutral position, the valve.
valve is working correctly.
4. For valves without an integral dump port, go to
9. If the valve works as stated in all of the above the next step.
steps, then no further checking is necessary.
Connect the vertical linkage to the control lever, For valves with an integral dump port, check the
then tighten the linkage nut (Barksdale valves), rubber exhaust flapper at the back of the valve
or secure the linkage with a cotter pin (Meritor housing for leaks; see Fig. 3. Use a soapy solu-
WABCO valves). tion.
If needed, adjust the ride height or replace the If a leak is found, there may be contaminants
height-control valve. For adjustment of the ride blocking the piston. Cycle the height-control
height, see Subject 110. For replacement of the valve switch inside the cab for two-second
height-control valve, see Subject 130. bursts, four or five times, to clear away any con-
taminants.

11.1 Rotate the valve control lever up 45 de-

grees from the horizontal to the fill posi-
tion.
11.2 Press the reset button on the test gauge.
11.3 Observe the test gauge for 30 seconds.
Refer to Fig. 5 for the maximum allowable
exhaust pressure change versus inlet
pressure.
The valve is not working correctly if the
gauge pressure reading exceeds the
maximum allowable within 30 seconds.
06/12/2000 f320854 If the gauge reads less than the maximum
allowable pressure change in 30 seconds,
Fig. 3, Exhaust Flap Location (height-control valve with the valve is okay.
integral dump port)
NOTE: The test gauge will register the exhaust-
5. Disconnect the vertical linkage from the horizon- ing air. This does not indicate a defective valve.
tal control lever.
12. Check the height-control valve in the exhaust
6. Rotate and hold the horizontal control lever down mode, as follows.
at about 45 degrees to exhaust air from the air
springs. 12.1 Rotate the valve control lever down 45
degrees from the horizontal to the exhaust
7. If equipped with an integral dump port, turn on position.
the quick dump switch on the dash. Leave the
switch on until testing is complete. 12.2 Press the reset button on the test gauge.
If not equipped with an integral dump port, dis- 12.3 Observe the test gauge for 30 seconds.
connect the air lines from the air spring ports on Refer to Fig. 5 for the maximum allowable
the height-control valve. Leave the elbow fittings exhaust pressure change versus inlet
(if equipped) in place. Install a Parker plug into pressure.
each air spring port (or elbow fitting); see Fig. 4. The valve is not working correctly if the
8. If a flapper is present on the exhaust port of the gauge pressure reading exceeds the
height-control valve, remove it using needlenose maximum allowable within 30 seconds.
pliers. If the gauge reads less than the maximum
9. Clean the surface around the exhaust port, then allowable pressure change in 30 seconds,
install the test fitting into the exhaust port. The the valve is okay.
centering pin on the fitting must align with the NOTE: The test gauge will register the exhaust-
slot on the exhaust port. Rotate the test fitting 45 ing air. This does not indicate a defective valve.
degrees clockwise to lock it in place; see Fig. 4.
13. Disconnect the test gauge and connector from
NOTE: It may be necessary to cut the tie straps the valve exhaust port.
that hold the chassis wiring running below the
height-control valve, in order to access the ex- 14. If the height-control valve is defective, replace it;
haust port. see Subject 130.
10. Connect one end of the air hose from the kit to 15. Install the flapper on the exhaust port by press-
the test connector on the exhaust port, and the ing it into place.
other end to the test gauge. 16. For height-control valves with an integral dump
11. Check the height-control valve in the fill mode,
port, connect the vertical linkage to the height-
control valve control lever. Turn off the quick
as follows.

7
3 A
2 1
2 1
4 6
B
10/08/2007 f321105
A. Fill B. Exhaust
1. Air Spring Port 4. Exhaust Port Test Fitting 6. Reset Button
2. Parker Plug 5. Air Line 7. Test Gauge Assembly
3. Air Intake Port
Fig. 4, Test Connections
For height-control valves without an integral

PSI dump port, remove the two Parker plugs from the
air spring ports, and connect the air lines to the
EXHAUST PRESSURE CHANGE
25
air spring ports (or elbow fittings). Connect the
MAXIMUM ALLOWANCE
vertical linkage to the height-control valve control

20
lever. The ride height will automatically return to
the correct position.
15
90 100 110 120 130
INLET PRESSURE
06/22/2007 f321039a
Fig. 5, Inlet Pressure vs. Exhaust Pressure Change in

30 Seconds
dump switch on the dash. The ride height will

automatically return to the correct position.

Height-Control Valve Replacement
Replacement 2
NOTE: The Barksdale height-control valve re-

placed the Meritor WABCO valve after Septem- 3
ber 19, 1997. On vehicles with tandem-axle Air- 4
Liner rear suspensions, the Barksdale vertical
1
linkage rod is attached to the forward drive axle
instead of the rearmost drive axle, and the valve
is mounted on the frame rail. 5
6
Barksdale
The Barksdale valve does not use an adjustable 7
linkage rod. To adjust the Barksdale valve, see
Subject 110.
08/15/97 f320558
WARNING 1. Forward Drive Axle 5. Horizontal Control
2. Valve Mounting Lever
Keep your hands and all objects away from the Bracket 6. Stud Bolt
area under and around the slack adjusters and 3. Height-Control Valve 7. Vertical Linkage
suspension components when removing the 4. Neutral-Position Hole
pressure from the air system. These parts will
move as the air is released and can cause per- Fig. 1, Barksdale Height-Control Valve
sonal injury or damage to any objects that are
between the moving parts. fitting. If the remaining part of the tube cannot
be pulled from the fitting, the fitting will not be
2. Drain all air from the air tanks.
reusable and the warranty on that unit will be
void.
WARNING
Air lines under pressure can whip dangerously if NOTICE
disconnected under pressure. Drain all air from
the air tanks before disconnecting air lines. Dis- When removing or loosening a Barksdale height-
connecting pressurized air lines can cause per- control valve from a mounting bracket, always
sonal injury and/or property damage. hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with
an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the
3. Remove the nut and washer that attaches the nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because
vertical linkage to the horizontal control lever. the mounting studs are threaded into the valve
Disconnect the vertical linkage from the control body, loosening the nuts without holding the
lever; see Fig. 1. studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the
4. Rotate and hold the horizontal control lever down valve body and damage the valve. Conversely,
until all air is exhausted from the air springs. tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
5. Disconnect the air lines at the height-control two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
valve, and mark the lines for later reference.
Using tape, cover the open ends of the air lines 6. While holding the height-control valve mounting
and fittings to prevent dirt or foreign material studs in place with an Allen wrench, remove the
from entering. nuts and washers that attach the valve to the
mounting bracket. Remove the height-control
IMPORTANT: For quick-connect tube fittings, do valve.
not remove the tube by cutting it close to the

7. Position the new height-control valve on the

A
height-control bracket. While holding the height-
control valve mounting studs in place with an
Allen wrench, install the nuts and washers, and
tighten the nuts 95 lbf·in (1100 N·cm). Do not
4
overtighten. 1
8. Remove the tape from the air lines and fittings,
and connect the air lines to the height-control 2
3
valve as marked earlier. Tighten nylon tube air
fittings until only two threads show on the fitting.
On wire-braid hose fittings, tighten the nut with a 5
wrench until there is firm resistance, then tighten
05/15/95 f320410
one-sixth turn more.
A. Measure the length of the horizontal control level
9. Close the drain cocks on all reservoirs. between these two points.
10. Build up normal operating pressure in the air 1. V-Shaped Mark
system. Check all air lines and connections for 2. Adjustment Locknut
leaks. Eliminate all leaks. 3. Horizontal Control Lever
4. Cotter Pin
11. Adjust the height-control valve; see Subject 110. 5. Vertical Linkage
Meritor WABCO Fig. 2, Meritor Height-Control Valve Linkage

Measurement
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the
parking brakes and chock the tires. and fittings to prevent dirt or foreign material
from entering.
WARNING 6. Remove the height-control valve mounting bolts
and nuts, then remove the height-control valve
Keep your hands and all objects away from the from the bracket.
area under and around the slack adjusters and
suspension components when removing the 7. Remove the horizontal control lever from the
pressure from the air system. These parts will height-control valve.
move as the air is released and can cause per- 8. Attach the new height-control valve to the
sonal injury or damage to any objects that are bracket. Tighten the valve mounting bolt nuts 14
between the moving parts. lbf·ft (19 N·m).
2. Drain all air from the air tanks. 9. Remove the tape from the air lines and fittings,
and connect the air lines to the height-control
WARNING valve as marked earlier. Tighten nylon tube air
fittings until only two threads show on the fitting.
Air lines under pressure can whip dangerously if On wire-braid hose fittings, tighten the nut with a
disconnected under pressure. Drain all air from wrench until there is firm resistance, then tighten
the air tanks before disconnecting air lines. Dis- one-sixth turn more.
connecting pressurized air lines can cause per-
sonal injury and/or property damage. 10. Connect the vertical linkage to the horizontal
control lever. Secure the linkage with a cotter
3. Disconnect the vertical linkage from the horizon- pin.
tal control lever; see Fig. 2.
11. Connect the horizontal control lever to the
4. Rotate and hold the horizontal control lever down height-control valve. Insert the horizontal control
until all air is exhausted from the air springs. lever into the valve at the hole with the V-shaped
5. Disconnect the air lines at the height-control mark; see Fig. 2. Be sure the length between
valve, and mark the lines for later reference. pivot points is 8 inches (20.3 cm); see Fig. 2,
Using tape, cover the open ends of the air lines Ref. A.

12. Close the drain cocks on all reservoirs.

13. Build up normal operating pressure in the air
system. Check all air lines and connections for
leaks. Eliminate all leaks.
14. Adjust the height-control valve; see Subject 110.

Replacement
3 2 1
1. Chock the tires. 4
5
2. Disconnect the top of the shock absorber from
the frame bracket. 5
2.1 On vehicles built before September 4
1994—remove the nut, upper retainer,
and upper bushing from the top of the
shock absorber. See Fig. 1.
2.2 On vehicles built from September 1994—
remove the locknut, bolt, and washers
from the top of the shock absorber. See 6
Fig. 2.
3. Compress the shock absorber until the top
mounting stud or bushing clears the upper
mounting bracket.
4. Remove the locknut, bolt, and spacer from the
shock absorber lower mounting bracket.
5. Remove the shock absorber. 9
8
6. Position the replacement shock absorber in the 7 10
lower bracket and install the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt, washers, and locknut.
8
WARNING
WARNING: Use only the retainers included with 03/26/96 f320273a
the replacement shock absorber. Do not use 1. Frame Rail 6. Shock Absorber
washers. They can be extruded over the nut and 2. Upper Bracket 7. Locknut
be ejected violently, possibly causing personal 3. Nut 8. Washer
injury and property damage. 4. Retainer 9. Spacer
5. Bushing 10. Bolt
7. Connect the top of the shock absorber to the
frame bracket. Fig. 1, Shock Absorber Mounting, Before September
1994
7.1 On vehicles built before September
1994—install a retainer and bushing on 8. Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting lock-
the shock absorber top stud. Then, ex- nut 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
tend the shock absorber until the stud 9. Tighten the shock absorber upper mounting fas-
enters the upper bracket and install the teners.
upper bushing and retainer on the shock
absorber. Make sure that the new bush- 9.1 On vehicles built before September
ings and retainers are positioned properly. 1994—tighten the shock absorber upper
See Fig. 3. mounting nut to compress the bushings to
the dimension shown in Fig. 3.
7.2 On vehicles built from September 1994—
extend the shock absorber until the bush- 9.2 On vehicles built from September 1994—
ing eye enters the upper mounting tighten the shock absorber upper mount-
bracket and install the bolt, washers, and ing locknut 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
locknut.

2 1
3 1
4 2
2−1/2"
(64 mm)
5 3
08/28/95 f320120a
1. Frame Rail
2. Retainer
A 3. Bushings
3 3
4 Fig. 3, Shock Absorber Bushing Compression
5
03/27/96 f320523
A. Shock absorber is installed with long end of sleeve

toward frame rail.
1. Frame Rail 4. Locknut
2. Upper Bracket 5. Bolt
3. Washer 6. Shock Absorber
Fig. 2, Shock Absorber Mounting, From September

1994

Air Spring Replacement cross bar) in place. See Fig. 4. Tighten the lock-
IMPORTANT: Effective March 2011, the steel 6. For bracket-mounted air springs: Attach the air
bead on the inside of the air bag where it at- spring to the upper mounting bracket, using the
taches to the piston, changed to a square bead 1/2–13 locknut on the outside of the frame rail
to increase the pull-off force between the air bag and the 3/4–16 locknut on the inside. See Fig. 2.
and piston. The new air bag is stamped “BD8” Tighten the 3/4–16 locknut 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m);
tighten the 1/2–13 locknut 23 lbf·ft (31 N·m).
and “Do Not Re-Assemble Rubber Bellow to
Piston.” See Fig. 1. With this design change it is For flange-mounted air springs: Attach the air
not possible to reseat the air bag to the piston. spring to the frame rail flange, using the 3/4–16
In the event of an air bag failure, or separation locknut on the forward stud of the air spring, and
from the piston, the complete air-spring assem- the 1/2–13 locknut on the rear stud. See Fig. 3.
bly must be replaced. For service it is accept- Tighten the 3/4–16 locknut 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m);
tighten the 1/2–13 locknut 23 lbf·ft (31 N·m).
able to have a replacement air-spring assembly
on one side of the vehicle, and an older style on 7. Remove the tape from the ends of the air supply
the other side. line, the fitting, and the brass tee. Connect the
air supply line to the air spring. Tighten nylon
NOTE: The air-spring-to-frame-rail mounting tube air fittings until only two threads show on
bracket is not supplied with the air-spring as- the fitting. On wire-braid hose fittings, tighten the
sembly. If it needs to be replaced it must be or- nut with a wrench until there is firm resistance,
dered separately. then tighten one-sixth turn more.
Follow these steps to replace the air-spring and pis- 8. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
ton assembly. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1. Chock the front tires. Raise the vehicle frame
and support it with safety stands to remove all
weight from the air springs. The leveling valve
automatically releases air from the air springs
when all weight is removed from the suspension.
2. Disconnect the air supply line,including the brass
tee, from the air spring. Using tape, cover the
ends of the air supply line and the fitting to pre-
vent dirt or foreign material from entering.
3. Remove the locknuts and washers that connect
the air spring to the upper mounting bracket, or
to the frame rail flange. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
4. Remove the capscrews and lockwashers that
connect the air spring to the rear of the leaf
spring. Remove the air spring. See Fig. 4.
NOTE: Suspensions manufactured to a 46,000-
pound (20 865 kg) or 23,000-pound (10 433 kg)
weight rating have a different leaf spring, and an
additional cross bar attached between the air
spring and rear of the leaf spring. See Fig. 5.
5. Place the new air spring on the rear of the leaf
spring (or the cross bar on the 23,000- and
46,000-pound suspensions), and install the
washer and locknut that hold the air spring (and

03/15/2011 f321160
A. Caution: Do Not Re-Assemble Rubber Bellow to Piston
Fig. 1, Air-Spring and Piston Assembly

A
3
06/08/94 f320133
A. Air line connects here.
1. Right Frame Rail Flange
2. Locknut and Washer 06/08/94 f320134
3. Upper Mounting Bracket
Fig. 4, Capscrew Connecting Leaf Spring and Air
Spring
Fig. 2, Bracket-Mounted Air Spring
2 3
4
06/02/94 f320386 4
1. Frame Rail (left) 3. 1/2–13 Locknut and 3
2. 3/4–16 Locknut and Washer 2
01/17/96 f320504
Washer 4. Air Spring
1. Leaf Spring 3. Cross Bar
Fig. 3, Flange-Mounted Air Spring 2. Leaf Spring 4. Air Spring
Fig. 5, Leaf Spring and Air Spring Assembly, (23,000-

and 46,000-pound suspensions)

Leaf Spring Replacement
Leaf Spring Replacement 8. While supporting a new leaf spring assembly

with a jack, position the assembly on the spring
(See Fig. 1) hanger. Install the bolts, wear shoe clips, wash-
ers, alignment shims, and hexnuts. Tighten the
bolts just enough to hold the leaf spring assem-
WARNING bly in place.
Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged 9. If the air spring mounts to the leaf spring, attach
leaf spring assembly; replace the complete the air spring to the leaf spring assembly. Install
spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or the washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut 55
breaks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to lbf·ft (75 N·m).
damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring If the air spring mounts to a cross bar, attach the
is safe. Failure to replace a damaged spring as- cross bar to the leaf spring assembly. The longer
sembly could cause an accident resulting in seri- capscrews attach in the forwardmost holes; the
ous personal injury or property damage. shorter capscrews attach in the aft holes.
10. Making sure that the U-bolt pads are in place on
1. Chock the front tires. the top of the axle, fasten the leaf spring assem-
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support the bly to the axle using the U-bolts, axle clamp,
rear axle(s) with safety stands. Raise the vehicle washers, and high nuts making sure the U-bolt
so that all weight is removed from the leaf pads and axle clamps are positioned correctly.
springs, then securely support the frame with NOTE: On single-drive axles angled 5 degrees,
safety stands. Remove the wheel and tire as-
the arrow on the U-bolt pads must point to the
sembly to easily access the suspension. Refer to
the wheels and tires section in this manual for front of the axle housing. See Fig. 3. On single-
instructions. drive axles angled 3 degrees, there is no arrow.
Make sure that the axle bump stop on the
3. Remove the nut, bolt, and washers from the U-bolt pad is positioned toward the vehicle cen-
shock absorber lower mounting bracket. Remove terline. See Fig. 4 .
the high nuts, flatwashers, and axle clamp from
each U-bolt. Support the leaf spring assembly With both 5- and 3-degree single-drive axle
with a jack. angles, the arrow on the bottom of the axle
4. If the air spring mounts to the leaf spring, discon- clamp (see Fig. 1) must point toward the rear of
nect the bottom of the air spring from the leaf the vehicle.
spring. On tandem axle suspensions, refer to Table 1
If the air spring mounts to a cross bar, discon- for U-bolt pad orientation. The arrow on the bot-
nect the cross bar from the leaf spring by remov- tom of the axle clamp must point toward the
ing the capscrews, nuts, and washers. See rear of the vehicle on the forward rear axle and
Fig. 2. toward the front of the vehicle on the rearmost
5. Note the number and position of the alignment axle.
shims (see Fig. 1) on the spring mounting bolt. 11. Tighten the U-bolt high nuts in stages in a diago-
6. Remove the hexnut, washers, alignment shim(s), nal pattern as described in Specifications 400.
spring mounting bolt, and wear shoe clip from 12. Install the bolt, washers, and hexnut to connect
the spring hanger. See Fig. 1. the shock absorber to its lower mounting bracket.
Tighten the hexnut 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
WARNING 13. Tighten the locknut on the bottom of the air
spring 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m).
The leaf spring assembly is heavy. Use care
when handling it to prevent injury.
7. Remove and discard the leaf spring assembly.

24
23
11
2
3 7 12
8
13 22
9
10
14
4 19
5 6
15 21
18 20
16
17
11/17/95 f320462
1. Frame Rail 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Shock Absorber
2. Spring Hanger 12. U-Bolt 20. Nylon Locknut
3. Washer 13. Axle 21. Washer
4. Hexnut 14. Axle Seat 22. Air Spring
5. Spring Mounting Eye Pin 15. Axle Clamp 23. Air Spring Mounting Bracket
6. Alignment Shim 16. Flatwasher 24. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting
7. Wear Shoe Clip 17. High Nut Bracket
8. Washer 18. Shock Absorber Lower Mounting
9. Spring Mounting Bolt Bracket
Fig. 1, AirLiner Leaf Spring Assembly

On 23,000-pound and 46,000-pound suspen-
sions, tighten the locknuts on the bottom of the
cross bar 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
14. Tighten the hexnuts at the front of the leaf spring
170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
15. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For instruc-
tions, refer to Group 40. Remove the safety
stands, and lower the vehicle.
refer to the rear axle section in this manual. If
necessary, adjust the rear axle alignment using
the instructions in Subject 170.

3
2
01/17/96 f320504
1. Leaf Spring 3. Cross Bar
2. Leaf Spring 4. Air Spring
Fig. 2, Leaf Spring and Air Spring Assembly (23,000- and 46,000-pound suspensions)
08/28/95 f320138a
A. Arrow on U-Bolt Pad
Fig. 3, U-bolt Pad Arrow Positioning

A A
08/02/94 f320139a
A. Axle Bump Stop
Fig. 4, Axle Bump Stop Positioning
U-Bolt Pad Orientation for

Axles
Axle Designation U-Bolt Pad Orientation
Forward Rear Axle No arrow; axle bump stop toward vehicle centerline.
Rockwell SQ 100, SSHD
Rearmost Axle No arrow; axle bump stop toward vehicle centerline.
Rockwell RT40-145, RT44-145, Forward Rear Axle No arrow; axle bump stop toward vehicle centerline.
RT46-160 Rearmost Axle Arrow toward front of vehicle.
Forward Rear Axle No arrow; axle bump stop toward vehicle centerline.
Eaton 402, 461
Rearmost Axle No arrow; axle bump stop toward vehicle centerline.
Table 1, U-Bolt Pad Orientation for Axles

Rear Axle Alignment
Rear Axle Alignment Adjusting 3. When the axle is in alignment, install alignment
shim(s) to take up the slack between the spring
See Fig. 1. hanger and the spring mounting eye pin.
Follow the instructions in Group 35 to see if rear IMPORTANT: Make sure the same number of
axle alignment adjustment is needed. If adjustment is shims is installed on both ends of the spring
needed, proceed as follows: mounting eye pin.
24
23
11
2
3 7 12
8
13 22
9
10
14
4 19
5 6
15 21
18 20
16
08/02/94
17 f320280a
1. Frame Rail 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Shock Absorber
2. Spring Hanger 12. U-Bolt 20. Nylon Locknut
3. Washer 13. Axle 21. Washer
4. Hexnut 14. Axle Seat 22. Air Spring
5. Spring Mounting Eye Pin 15. Axle Clamp 23. Air Spring Mounting Bracket
6. Alignment Shim 16. Flatwasher 24. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting
7. Wear Shoe Clip 17. High Nut Bracket
8. Washer 18. Shock Absorber Lower Mounting
9. Spring Mounting Bolt Bracket
Fig. 1, Airliner Leaf Spring Assembly

1. Loosen the spring mounting eye bolts so that the 4. Tighten the spring mounting eye bolts 170 lbf·ft
forward end of the leaf spring can slide fore and (230 N·m).
aft in the spring hanger.
5. Check the axle alignment again. If necessary,
2. Move the axle forward or backward until it is repeat the above procedure until the alignment is
aligned within the tolerances in the rear axle within tolerances.
alignment checking section.

Rear Axle Alignment
Rear Axle Tracking Adjustment

1
Single Axle
1. At the forward edge of the right rear tire, mea-
sure the distance from the inner side of the tire
to the outer side of the right frame rail. See
Fig. 2.
2
A 09/03/2002 f320975
1. Bar Pin 2. Taper Pin
Fig. 3, Torque Rod Types

the outer side of the right frame rail. Measure at
the forward edge of the tire. See Fig. 4.
A B
B
08/27/2002 f320974
Fig. 2, Rear Axle Tracking Measurements (single axle)

2. At the rear edge of the left rear tire, measure the
distance from the inner side of the tire to the
outer side of the left frame rail. See Fig. 2.
IMPORTANT: Measurement "A" should not vary
by more than 1/4-inch (6 mm) from measure-
C
ment "B."
3. If measurements "A" and "B" vary by more than
07/25/2001 f320918
1/4-inch (6 mm), loosen the fasteners holding the
lateral torque rod to the frame rail. Add or re-
Fig. 4, Rear Axle Tracking Measurements (tandem
move torque-rod shims as needed. axles)
4. For bar-pin style torque rods, tighten the fasten-
3. At both sides of the rear-rear drive axle, measure
ers 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
the distance from the inner side of the rear tires
For taper-pin style torque rods, tighten the fas- to the outer side of each frame rail. Measure at
teners 165 lbf·ft (224 N·m). See Fig. 3. the rear edge of each tire. See Fig. 4.
Tandem Axles IMPORTANT: Measurements "B" and "C" should

not vary by more than 1/4-inch (6 mm) from
1. Check the tracking of the forward-rear axle. For measurement "A."
instructions, see "Single Axle" in this subject. Ad-
just the tracking if needed. 4. If measurements "B" and "C" vary by more than
1/4-inch (6 mm) from measurement "A," loosen
2. At the forward-rear drive axle, measure the dis- the fasteners holding the axle lateral torque rod
tance from the inner side of the right rear tire to at the rear-rear drive axle to the frame rail. Add
or remove torque-rod shims as needed.

Rear Axle Alignment
5. For bar-pin style torque rods, tighten the fasten-

ers 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m). For taper-pin style
torque rods, tighten the fasteners 165 lbf·ft (224
N·m). See Fig. 3.

Control Rod Replacement
Replacement
4 7
1. Park the vehicle. Shut down the engine, and ap- 5 6
ply the brakes.
2. Chock the tires. Raise the vehicle. Support the
frame rails with jack stands.
3
3. Remove the fasteners holding the control rod to
the frame rail bracket. Remove the shims, and 2
set the shims aside. 1
4. Remove the control rod.

5. Position the new control rod so that the end with
11/14/95 f320451
the fasteners angled up at 35 degrees is in-
stalled in the axle housing bracket. See Fig. 1. 1. Axle Housing 5. Control Rod
2. Control Rod Axle 6. Control Rod Frame
Bracket Bracket
3. Bolt 7. Right Frame Rail
8 4. Left Frame Rail
A 4 5 6 7
Fig. 2, Control Rod Installation on 23,000- and 46,000-
4 pound AirLiner Suspensions
3 NOTE: Control rods on suspensions manufac-
2 tured to a 23,000-pound (10 433 kg) or 46,000-
pound (20 865 kg) weight rating are larger and
1 are attached to the axle bracket with a single
bolt. Tighten the fasteners attaching the control
rod frame bracket to the frame rail 160 to 170
lbf·ft (217 to 230 N·m), and the bolt connecting
09/14/95 f320431
the control rod to the axle housing 175 to 225
A. Angle: 35 degrees lbf·ft (237 to 305 N·m). See Fig. 2.
1. Axle Housing 5. Control Rod
2. Control Rod Axle 6. Control Rod Frame
Bracket Bracket
3. Left Frame Rail 7. Shim
4. Bolt 8. Right Frame Rail
Fig. 1, AirLiner Control Rod Installation

6. Install the fasteners with the bolt heads facing
up. Tighten the fasteners enough to hold the
control rod in place.
7. Install the shims that were previously removed.
8. Install the other end of the control rod in the
frame rail bracket; then, install the fasteners.
Tighten the fasteners enough to hold the control
rod in place.
9. Tighten all the fasteners 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
10. Remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle. Re-
move chocks.

Spring Eye Bushing Replacement
Replacement the press bed for safety and to avoid

bending the spring assembly.
WARNING 5.2 Center the bushing tool on the outer

metal of the bushing and push the bush-
Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged ing from the spring eye.
leaf spring assembly; replace the complete 5.3 Remove any burrs or material left behind
spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or by the old bushing.
other leaves. Replacement of only the visibly 6. Install the new bushing in the leaf spring eye.
damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring 6.1 Position the bushing on the shop press.
sembly could cause an accident resulting in seri- 6.2 Apply a bonding agent, either Perma-
ous personal injury or property damage. bond HM–160 or Loctite RC–609 or 680,
liberally around the outside surface of the
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down bushing.
the engine. Set the parking brake and chock the
6.3 Press the bushing into place.
front tires.
6.4 Allow the bonding agent to cure for 24
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support the
hours.
rear axle(s) with safety stands. Raise the vehicle
so that all weight is removed from the leaf NOTE: After the curing time, the bushing
springs, then securely support the frame with must resist a minimum 7,700 lb (3 490 kg)
safety stands. pushout force.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly to easily 7. Install the leaf spring assembly. See the informa-
access the suspension. For instructions, see the tion in Subject 160.
information in Group 40.
8. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For instruc-
4. Remove the leaf spring assembly. See removal tions, see Group 40. Remove the safety stands,
information in Subject 160. and lower the vehicle.
WARNING refer to Group 35 in this manual. If necessary,
The leaf spring assembly is heavy. Use care adjust the rear axle alignment using the instruc-
when handling it to prevent injury. tions in Group 35.
5. Remove the bushing from the leaf spring eye. 10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
WARNING
Do not use a cutting torch to remove the outer
metal of the bushing from the spring eye. Weld-
ing, torching or cutting the leaf spring assembly
can damage the leaf spring material, which may
result in the failure of the components and cause
serious personal injury, death, or property dam-
age.
5.1 Using a shop press with a capacity of at
least 10 tons (9 072 kg), place the spring
assembly in the shop press with the
spring assembly squarely supported on

Specifications
Torque Specifications
For fastener torque values, see Table 1.
Torque Values for AirLiner Suspension

Torque
Description Size
Height-Control Valve Housing Bolts,
1/4–20 — 45 (500)
Barksdale*
Height-Control Valve Mounting Locknuts,
1/4–20 — 95 (1100)
Barksdale*
Height-Control Valve Adjustment Nut,
1/4–20 — 62 (700)
Meritor WABCO
Height-Control Valve Mounting Bolt Nuts,
5/16–18 14 (19) —
Meritor WABCO
Shock Absorber Mounting Locknuts 3/4–10 165 (220) —
3/4–16 45 (61) —
Air Spring Upper Mounting Locknuts
1/2–13 23 (31) —
Air Spring Lower Mounting Locknuts 1/2–13 55 (75) —
Leaf Spring Mounting Eye Bolt Locknuts 3/4–10 241 (327) —
Control Rod Mounting Bolt Locknuts 5/8–11 136 (184) —
Stage 2: 60 (81)
3/4–16 —
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 270 to 330 (367 to 449)
Axle U-Bolt High Nuts
Stage 2: 60 (81)
Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown in 7/8–14 —
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Fig. 1.
Stage 4: 420 to 500 (571 to 680)
Stage 2: 60 (81)
1–14 —
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 520 to 600 (707 to 816)
Air Spring Upper Mounting Bracket 5/8–11 136 (184) —
Spring Hanger Mounting Locknuts 3/4–10 240 (325) —
* See the cautionary statements below.
Table 1, Torque Values for AirLiner Suspension
IMPORTANT: To prevent voiding the warranty • Do not overtighten the bolts in the Barks-
on Barksdale height-control valves, note the fol- dale height-control valve housing. The
lowing: bolts should not be loose, and should not

Specifications
require tightening. Only if necessary,

tighten the valve housing bolts 45 lbf·in
(500 N·cm). Any damage to the valve
housing will void the warranty.
• Do not attempt to disassemble the Barks-
dale valve body or the control lever. There
are no serviceable parts in the valve, and
any disassembly will void the warranty.
NOTICE
When removing or loosening a Barksdale height-
control valve from a mounting bracket, always
hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with
an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the
nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because
the mounting studs are threaded into the valve
body, loosening the nuts without holding the
studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the
valve body and damage the valve. Conversely,
tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783
Fig. 1, Tightening Pattern for U-Bolt High Nuts
Special Tools
Use the kit shown in Fig. 2 to test a Barksdale
height-control valve. Test kit BKS KD2264 is avail-
able via the Direct Ship program in Paragon.

Specifications
1 2 3
5
4
06/05/2000 f320852
NOTE: Parts for cab suspension valve testing included.
1. Test Gauge Assembly with Reset Button
2. Exhaust Port Test Connector for Cab Suspension Valve (used for cab suspension valve testing)
3. Parker Plugs
4. Exhaust Port Test Connector for Chassis Suspension Valve
5. Test Plugs for Cab Suspension Valve (used for cab suspension valve testing)
6. Special Tool for Disconnecting Air Line
7. Air Line
Fig. 2, Barksdale Height-Control Valve Test Kit BKS KD2264

Neway® Air Ride Suspension, Models ARD 125-8 and
ARD 244-8 32.06
General Description
General Description induced rotation of the axle. A similar lateral rod

(Fig. 3, Ref. 18) connects each axle housing to a
The Neway Air Ride Suspension is a single axle frame rail to prevent the axle from moving laterally.
(Model ARD 125-8; see Fig. 1) or tandem axle If the air springs lose pressure, a solid rubber
(Model ARD 244-8; see Fig. 2) suspension that uses bumper inside the spring will support the vehicle until
air springs. The top of each air spring is bolted to a it can be repaired. Do not drive the vehicle over 30
frame-rail bracket, and the bottom of each spring is mph (50 km/h) with the air springs deflated, and
attached to a suspension crossmember. The suspen- drive it only as far as the nearest service facility. To
sion crossmember is attached to the rear ends of two deflate the air springs, disconnect the control lever
equalizing beams which carry the axle. The forward arm from the linkage rod, and press the valve’s con-
ends of the equalizing beams are journaled to trol lever down to simulate overinflated air springs.
brackets bolted on the frame rail. The valve will vent the air from the springs.
Both models of the suspension allow for 8 inches (20
cm) of vertical travel. The maximum loading capacity
of the single axle model is 22,500 lbs (10,000 kg);
and the maximum loading capacity for the tandem
axle model is 44,000 lbs (20,000 kg).
The Neway suspension maintains a stable, level ride
by adjusting the air spring height according to vehicle
load and road conditions. A height control valve
mounted inside the frame rail is linked to the suspen-
sion crossmembers and monitors ride height in rela-
tion to the crossmember. If the load is riding too high,
the suspension crossmember pulls the valve’s control
lever (Fig. 4) down, and the valve lowers the load by
venting air from the springs (Fig. 3, Ref. 41). If the
load rides too low, the suspension crossmember
pushes the valve’s control lever up, and the valve
raises the load by delivering air to the springs. The
air springs and the shocks mounted between the
axle and the frame rails absorb road shock.
The design of the height control valve allows a sev-
eral second delay between delivering air to and vent-
ing air from the air springs. This prevents the valve
from reacting to abrupt axle movements caused by
the condition of the road surface.
05/30/2006
Fig. 1, Single Axle Suspension, Model ARD 125-8
A torque rod (Fig. 3, Ref. 5) connects each axle

housing to a frame crossmember to prevent torque-

32.06 ARD 244-8
General Description
03/17/93 f320126
Fig. 2, Tandem Axle Suspension, Model ARD 244-8

ARD 244-8 32.06
General Description
1 3
2 4
7
8
9
5 1
2
17
4
11 2 2
12 19
11 10 16
13 6
15 18 4 2
14
24
20
23
21 21
33 37 38
22 24. Locknut, 3/4−16 (Grade B)
27 28 29 36 39
25. Equalizing Beam
23 26 40 Front Bushing
26. Equalizing Beam
28 27. Beam Hanger Bracket
25 28. Adaptor Bushing
29. Washer
30. Locknut, 1−1/4−12 (Grade B)
31 41 31. Spacer Washer(s)
30 29 32 32. Equalizing Beam
Note: Left side shown, 34 42
35 Center Bushing
right side opposite. 33. Rod Bolt, 1−1/4−12
Not all fasteners are shown.
34. Internal Tooth
1. Bolt, 5/8−11 x 5−1/2 inch Lockwasher, 1−1/4 inch
(Grade 5) 43 35. Transverse Beam Bushing
2. Flatwasher, 44 36. Lockwasher, 1/2 inch
5/8 inch (Hardened) 47 45 37. Hex Nut, 1/2−13
3. Torque Rod Mount 48 35 38. Locknut, 3/4−16
4. Locknut, 5/8−11 (Grade B) 46 39. Washer
5. Torque Rod 40. Air Spring Upper
6. Torque Rod Axle Bracket 16. Axle Alignment Shim(s) Mounting Plate
7. Locknut, 1−1/4−12 (Grade B) 17. Lateral Rod Mount 41. Air Spring
8. Flatwasher, 18. Lateral Rod 42. Transverse Beam
1−1/4 inch (Hardened) 19. Bolt, 5/8−11 x 4 inch 43. Retainer Washer
9. Lateral Rod Axle Bracket (Grade 5) 44. Flatwasher, 1−1/4 inch
10. Shock Absorber Upper Mount 20. Frame Bracket (Hardened)
11. Shock Absorber Bushing 21. Adaptor Bushing 45. Locknut, 1−1/4−12
12. Shock Absorber 22. Bolt, 3/4−16 x 7 inch (Hardened)
13. Washer (Grade 5) 46. Cotter Pin
14. Locknut, 3/4−10 23. Flatwasher, 3/4 inch 47. Lockwasher, 1/2 inch
15. Shock Absorber Lower Mount (Hardened) 48. Capscrew, 1/2−13 x 1 inch
03/17/93 f320127
Fig. 3, Neway Suspension Components

32.06 ARD 244-8
General Description
NYLON
BLOCK
exhaust to atmosphere
airflow to spring
ADJUSTMENT
CONTROL LOCKNUT
airflow from LEVER
air reservoir
LINKAGE
05/31/2005 f320183
Fig. 4, Height Control Valve

ARD 244-8 32.06
Height Control Valve Adjustment
Adjustment peat the step above and this step until the height
dimension measures 10 inches (25 cm).
1. Park the unloaded or evenly loaded vehicle on a 7. When the height control valve is adjusted, dis-
level surface. Run the engine until the air brake connect the control lever from the height control
system is fully charged. Chock the tires. valve linkage, and push it down to the vertical
2. Remove the bolt that secures the height control position to fully deflate the air spring.
valve linkage to the control lever of each valve. 8. Repeat the previous four steps on the other
See Fig. 1. Disconnect the linkages from the height control valve(s).
control levers.
9. Connect all linkage assemblies to the control le-
3. Exhaust all air from the air springs by pushing vers. All height dimensions should now be equal.
the control levers down to the vertical position. If they aren’t, check for loose mounting bolt nuts
4. Connect one of the control levers to its respec- on the height control valves. Tighten any loose
tive linkage, and allow the air spring(s) controlled nuts or capscrews. Repeat the adjustment proce-
by the lever to fill until the valve shuts off. dures until all height dimensions are 10 inches
(25 cm).
5. Measure the distance from the underside of the
frame rail to the centerline of the axle nearest
the inflated spring. This dimension should be 10
inches (25 cm). Adjust the height control valve by
loosening the adjustment locknut (Fig. 1) and
moving the control lever slightly, relative to the
nylon block. When the 10-inch (25-cm) height
dimension is achieved, retighten the adjustment
locknut.
NYLON
BLOCK
exhaust to atmosphere
airflow to spring
ADJUSTMENT
CONTROL LOCKNUT
airflow from LEVER
air reservoir
LINKAGE
05/31/2005 f320183
6. Disconnect the control lever from the linkage,

and press it down to deflate the air springs about
halfway. Reconnect the linkage to inflate the air
springs, then check the height dimension. Re-

ARD 244-8 32.06
Replacing
(See Fig. 1)
1. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move-

ment. Open the stopcocks on the air tanks to
drain the air system.
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle to remove all weight
from the rear axles, and place safety stands to
secure the vehicle in its raised position. When
raised, the height control valves will vent all air
from the air springs.
3. Taking care to prevent foreign substances from
entering the line or fitting, disconnect the air sup-
ply line from the air spring.
4. Remove the locknut ( Fig. 1, Ref. 38), hexnut
(Ref. 37), and washers that secure the air spring
to the air spring upper mounting plate (Ref. 40).
5. Remove the capscrews (Ref. 48) and lockwash-
ers that connect the air spring to the air spring
lower mounting plate on the transverse beam
(Ref. 42). Remove the air spring.
6. Position the new air spring on the air spring
lower mounting plate, then install the capscrews
and lockwashers to secure the air spring to the
lower mounting plate. Tighten the capscrews to
the torque under Specifications, 400.
7. Install the locknut, hexnut, and washers previ-
ously removed, to connect the air spring to the
air spring upper mounting plate. Tighten the nuts
to the torque under Specifications, 400.
8. Connect the air supply line to the air spring.
9. Remove the safety stands from under the ve-
hicle, then lower the vehicle.
10. There must be 10 inches (25 cm) between the
bottom of the frame rail and the centerline of the
axle. Adjust the height control valve adjustment;
for instructions, refer to Subject 100.

32.06 ARD 244-8
1 3
2 4
7
8
9
5 1
2
17
4
11 2 2
12 19
11 10 16
13 6
15 18 4 2
14
24
20
23
21 21
33 37 38
27 28 29 36 39
25. Equalizing Beam
26. Equalizing Beam
29. Washer
35 Center Bushing
34. Internal Tooth
03/17/93 f320127
Fig. 1

ARD 244-8 32.06

1. Remove the locknuts (Ref. 14) from the shock
absorber upper and lower mounting brackets.
2. If the shock absorber is fully extended, chock the
vehicle wheels and jack up the axle to relieve
tension from the shock. Remove the shock ab-
sorber. If the inner metal sleeve is rusted to the
mounting pin, use a small, sharp chisel to force
the sleeve from the pin.
3. Install the new shock absorber on the mounting
pins and secure it with the locknuts and washers
previously removed. Tighten the locknuts to the
torque under Specifications, 400.

32.06 ARD 244-8
1 3
2 4
7
8
9
5 1
2
17
4
11 2 2
12 19
11 10 16
13 6
15 18 4 2
14
24
20
23
21 21
33 37 38
27 28 29 36 39
25. Equalizing Beam
26. Equalizing Beam
29. Washer
35 Center Bushing
34. Internal Tooth
03/17/93 f320127
Fig. 1

ARD 244-8 32.06
Equalizing Beam Removal and Installation
Removal out of the frame bracket. Remove the equalizing

beam from the vehicle.
Installation
from the rear suspension, and place safety
1. Make sure the adaptor bushings (Ref. 21) are
stands to secure the vehicle in its raised position.
installed in the frame bracket.
3. Remove the rear wheels and tires for access to
2. Position the equalizing beam with its front bush-
the suspension. Block the axle securely to pre-
ing centered in the frame bracket. Push the rod
vent it from dropping away from the vehicle as
bolt into the frame bracket while inserting the
the equalizing beam is removed.
spacer washers into their original positions be-
4. With the weight removed from the suspension, tween the equalizing beam and the frame
the air springs should be fully deflated. If they bracket.
aren’t, disconnect the height control valve linkage
from the height control valve control lever. Push NOTE: Refer to Subject 190 for placement of
the lever down to the vertical position to deflate the spacer washers if their positions were not
the air springs. recorded during removal of the equalizer beam.
5. Remove the capscrews and lockwashers (see 3. Lubricate the threads of the rod bolt with SAE-20
Fig. 1, Refs. 48 and 47) that secure the air oil, then install the locknut. Tighten the locknut to
springs to the air spring lower mounting plates the torque under Specifications, 400.
on both ends of the transverse beam (Ref. 42). 4. Raise the equalizing beam so the center bushing
6. Remove the cotter pins, locknuts, flatwashers, is centered in the beam hanger bracket. Insert
and retainer washers (Refs. 46, 45, 44, and 43) the beam hanger adaptor bushings (Ref. 28)
from the studs in the ends of the equalizing through the beam hanger bracket and into the
beams (Ref. 26). Tap the transverse beam (Ref. equalizing beam center bushing.
42) back from the ends of the equalizing beams. 5. With a flatwasher under the head,insert the rod
NOTE: In some cases, the transverse beam bolt (Ref. 33) through the beam hanger adaptor
bushings (Ref. 35) will stick, making it difficult to bushings with the threaded end on the outboard
remove the transverse beam from the equalizing side of the suspension.
beams. Use a Porta-Power, or equivalent tool, 6. Lubricate the center bushing bolt threads with
between the axle housing and the transverse SAE-20 oil, then install the flatwasher and lock-
beam at a point as near to the end of the trans- nut on the bolt. Tighten the locknut to the torque
verse beam as possible to remove the beam. under Specifications, 400.
7. Remove the locknut and washer (Refs. 30 and 7. Lubricate the transverse beam bushings (Ref.
29) from the outboard end of the rod bolt (Ref. 35) with rubber lubricant, soap and water solu-
33). Support the equalizing beam on a floor jack, tion, or a waterless hand cleaner. Install the inner
then extract the equalizing beam center bushing halves of the bushings with their thicker ends
bolt from the beam hanger bracket (Ref. 27). toward the front of the vehicle.
8. Use a drift to tap the adaptor bushings (Ref. 28) 8. Install the transverse beam on the equalizing
from the beam hanger bracket. Lower the equal- beams, with the air spring lower mounting plates
izing beam to the floor. tilted toward the rear of the vehicle. Install the
outer halves of the transverse beam bushings on
9. Remove the locknut (Ref. 24) from the inboard the equalizer beam journals.
end of the bolt (Ref. 22). Note the positions of
the spacer washers at either side of the equaliz- 9. Apply SAE-20 oil to the threads on the studs at
ing beam so they can be reassembled in their the rear of the equalizing beams. Install the re-
original positions. Use a drift to drive the rod bolt tainer washers, flatwashers and locknuts on the
studs (Refs. 43, 44, and 45). Tighten the lock-
nuts to the low end of the torque ranges under

32.06 ARD 244-8
1 3
2 4
7
8
9
5 1
2
17
4
11 2 2
12 19
11 10 16
13 6
15 18 4 2
14
24
20
23
21 21
33 37 38
27 28 29 36 39
25. Equalizing Beam
26. Equalizing Beam
29. Washer
35 Center Bushing
34. Internal Tooth
03/17/93 f320127
Fig. 1

ARD 244-8 32.06
Specifications, 400. Install the cotter pins and

lock them in place. Tighten the locknuts further if
it’s necessary in order to install the cotter pins.
10. Apply SAE-20 oil to the threads of the capscrews
that secure the air springs to the air spring lower
mounting plates. Position the air springs on the
plates and install the capscrews and lockwash-
ers. Tighten the capscrews to the torque under
Specifications, 400

ARD 244-8 32.06
Equalizing Beam Bushing Replacement
Replacement
1. Remove the equalizing beam. Refer to Sub-
ject 130.
WARNING
WARNING: Do not use a torch to cut the bushing
sleeve out of the equalizing beam. To do so
could alter the molecular structure of the beam,
seriously weakening the casting and resulting in
an unsafe operating condition.
2. Using a hydraulic press, apply 2000 to 3000
pounds (metric) pressure to remove the equaliz-
ing beam front and center bushings. See Fig. 1,
Refs. 25 and 32.
WARNING
manufacturer.
3. Using a wire brush and solvent, clean out the
equalizing beam bushing receptacles. Inspect the
entire beam for cracks or bends. Replace any
damaged equalizing beam with a new one.
4. Lubricate the replacement bushings and the
bushing receptacles with a non-mineral lubricant.
If standard rubber lubricant is not available, use
a soap and water solution or a waterless hand
cleaner.
5. Press the replacement bushings into the bushing
receptacles with a hydraulic press. Press the
bushings slightly past center, then turn the equal-
izing beam over and press the bushings back to
a centered position.
6. Install the equalizing beam. Refer to Sub-
ject 130.

32.06 ARD 244-8
1 3
2 4
7
8
9
5 1
2
17
4
11 2 2
12 19
11 10 16
13 6
15 18 4 2
14
24
20
23
21 21
33 37 38
27 28 29 36 39
25. Equalizing Beam
26. Equalizing Beam
29. Washer
35 Center Bushing
34. Internal Tooth
03/17/93 f320127
Fig. 1

ARD 244-8 32.06
Lateral Rod Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal 7
8
1. Apply the parking brakes. 9
3 4 5 10
2. Remove the locknuts and flatwashers ( Fig. 1, 11
Refs. 6 and 1) from the bolts that secure the lat- 1 12
eral rod mount to the frame rail. To ease reas-
sembly, note the order of the axle alignment 2
6
shims (Ref. 16) between the lateral rod mount
and the backing plate. 6 1
1 13
3. Remove the lateral rod mount bolts. Swing the 14
lateral rod clear of its mount, and remove the 7
6
axle alignment shims and the mount (Refs. 16
1
and 15).
15
4. Remove the locknut (Ref. 9) and flatwasher (Ref.
8) from the ball stud on the inboard end of the
lateral rod. Rap the ball stud eye on the lateral 16 2 1
rod axle mount (Ref. 11) with a hammer to
loosen the ball stud. If this fails to break it loose, 1. Flatwasher, 10. Ball Stud
5/8−Inch 11. Lateral Rod
use a tie-rod separator tool to remove the ball 2. Bolt, 5/8−11 Axle Mount
stud from the lateral rod axle mount. Remove the x 5−1/2 Inch 12. Torque Rod
lateral rod. 3. Axle Plane Shim(s) Axle Mount
5. Remove the seals (Ref. 7) from both ends of the 4. Torque Rod Mount 13. Bolt, 5/8−11
5. Torque Rod x 4−Inch
lateral rod. Clean the seals and rod to remove all 6. Locknut, 5/8−18 14. Lateral Rod
dirt and grease. 7. Seal 15. Lateral Rod
8. Flatwasher, Mount
Inspection 1−1/4 Inch
9. Locknut, 1−1/4−12
16. Axle Alignment
Shim(s)
03/17/93 f320176
Inspect the seals for dryness, cracks, or other signs
of deterioration and wear. Replace damaged seals Fig. 1, Lateral Rod Mounting
with new ones. Visually inspect the lateral rod for
cracks or bends. Work the ball joint and lateral rod 3. Position the lateral rod mount (Ref. 15) and the
pin to check for looseness in the bushings. If the lat- axle alignment shims against the backing plate
eral rod is bent, cracked, or otherwise damaged, or if on the inside of the frame rail. Move the lateral
there is any slack in either of the bushings, replace rod into position on the lateral rod mount.
the lateral rod with a new one. 4. Install flatwashers on the lateral rod mount bolts
(Ref. 2), then install the bolts through the frame
Installation rail, the shims, the lateral rod mount, and the
lateral rod. Install the flatwashers and locknuts
1. Lubricate all lateral rod and fastener threads with (Refs.1and 6) on the bolts,and tighten the lock-
SAE-20 oil, and install the seals ( Fig. 1, Ref. 7) nuts to the torque under Specifications, 400.
removed from the rod ends. 5. Check the alignment of the axle. Refer to Sub-
2. Insert the lateral rod ball stud (Ref. 10) through ject 180 for instructions.
the lateral rod axle mount (Ref. 11), then install
the flatwasher and locknut (Refs.8and 9) on the
stud. Tighten the locknut to the torque under
Specifications, 400, then rap the lateral rod axle
mount with a hammer. Tighten the locknut again
to the torque under Specifications, 400.

ARD 244-8 32.06
Torque Rod Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal 3. Remove the torque rod mount bolts. Swing the

torque rod clear of the torque rod mount, and
remove the axle plane shims together with the
1. Apply the parking brakes.
torque rod mount.
WARNING 4. Remove the locknuts and flatwashers (Refs. 6

and 1) from the bolts (Ref. 13) that secure the
WARNING: When the torque rods are discon- torque rod to the torque rod axle mount (Ref.
nected from the axle brackets, the axles become 12). Remove the bolts. Remove the torque rod
free to pivot on the equalizer beam end bushings. from the vehicle.
Keep clear of the beam hangers and beam ends
to avoid possible injury. Inspection
2. Remove the locknuts and the flatwashers (
Fig. 1, Refs. 6 and 1) from the bolts (Ref. 2) Inspect the torque rod for bends or cracks. Work the
that secure the torque rod mount (Ref. 4) to the torque rod pins to check for looseness in the polyure-
vehicle frame crossmember. For ease of installa- thane bushings. If the torque rod is bent, cracked, or
tion, note the order of the axle plane shims otherwise damaged, replace it with a new one. If ei-
(Ref.3) between the torque rod mount and the ther of the polyurethane bushings is loose, replace
frame crossmember. the bushing with a new one. For instructions, refer to
Subject 170.
7
8
9
Installation
3 4 5 10
1. Lubricate all torque rod and fastener threads with
11
SAE-20 oil.
1 12
2. Position the torque rod against the torque rod
2 axle mount ( Fig. 1, Ref. 12). Slip a flatwasher
6
6
over each of the two bolts (Ref. 13), then insert
1
1 13 the bolts through the torque rod axle mount and
14 the torque rod.
7
6 3. Install the flatwashers and locknuts (Refs. 1 and
1 6) on the torque rod mount bolts. Tighten the
15 locknuts to the torque under Specifica-
tions, 400.
4. Position the torque rod mount (Ref. 4) and the
16 2 1 axle plane shims (Ref. 3) against the frame
1. Flatwasher,
crossmember, and move the torque rod into
10. Ball Stud
5/8−Inch 11. Lateral Rod place on the torque rod mount.
2. Bolt, 5/8−11 Axle Mount 5. Install flatwashers on the bolts (Ref. 2), and in-
x 5−1/2 Inch 12. Torque Rod stall the bolts through the frame crossmember,
3. Axle Plane Shim(s) Axle Mount
4. Torque Rod Mount 13. Bolt, 5/8−11
the shims, the torque rod mount, and the torque
5. Torque Rod x 4−Inch rod. Install flatwashers and locknuts (Refs. 1 and
6. Locknut, 5/8−18 14. Lateral Rod 6) on the bolts, and tighten the locknuts to the
7. Seal 15. Lateral Rod torque under Specifications, 400.
8. Flatwasher, Mount
1−1/4 Inch 16. Axle Alignment
9. Locknut, 1−1/4−12 Shim(s)
03/17/93 f320176
Fig. 1, Torque Rod Mounting

ARD 244-8 32.06
Torque Rod Bushing Replacement
Replacement bushing. See Fig. 2. Press the bushing into the

torque rod eye.
NOTE: In order to replace the torque rod poly-
urethane bushings,you need special installation
tool kit P-097-009. This tool kit can be pur- PLUNGER
chased from Freightliner, or it can be machined,
using the dimensions given in Specifica-
tions, 400.
1. Remove the snap ring and washer from each POLYURETHANE
side of the bushing to be removed. See Fig. 1. BUSHING
Note that the torque rod eye has a smaller shoul-
INSERTION
der on one side than on the other, and the larger SLEEVE
shoulder has a rounded edge around the inside
of the eye. The polyurethane bushing must be
pressed in and out through the larger side.
TORQUE
Install washer and snap ring ROD
with sharp edges to outside.
SNAP RING
BASE
PRESSING
SLEEVE
Part of Tool Kit P−097−009.
03/17/93 f320177
Detail A
WASHER Fig. 2, Torque Rod Bushing Installation
Detail A
5. Install the snap ring and flatwasher on one end
TORQUE ROD of the torque rod pin, with the sharp edges of the
washer and the snap ring facing the outward end
of the pin. See Fig. 1.
SNAP RING WASHER 6. Press the torque rod pin into the torque rod
03/17/93 f320170 bushing from the same side as the bushing was
pressed into the torque rod eye. Make sure the
Fig. 1, Bushing Snap Ring Installation snap ring seats. Do not lubricate the torque rod
pin.
2. Using the plunger from the special tool kit on a
hydraulic press, press the old bushing out of the 7. Turn the torque rod over and install a flatwasher,
torque rod eye. Clean all dirt, grease, or foreign with the sharp edge facing away from the bush-
matter from the torque rod. ing; then install the other snap ring onto the
outer shoulder of the pin, with the sharp edge
3. Coat the replacement bushing with a non-mineral facing outward.
lubricant, such as rubber lubricant or waterless
hand cleaner. Position the bushing in the larger 8. Place a pressing sleeve over the end of the
end of the insertion sleeve from the tool kit, then torque rod pin, then seat the snap ring.
fit the beveled (smaller) end of the sleeve into See Fig. 1.
the larger side of the torque rod eye. 9. After assembly, press the torque rod pin slightly
4. Center the torque rod eye on the tool base, and to center it in the torque rod eye.
insert the plunger tool into the polyurethane

32.06 ARD 244-8
There should be no slack on either side of the

polyurethane bushing, and the bushing should be
compressed by about half the thickness of the
snap ring. If necessary, install a second washer
under one of the snap rings to compress the
bushing.

ARD 244-8 32.06
Rear Axle Lateral Alignment
Lateral Alignment 8.3 After installing the shims, lubricate the

threads on the lateral rod mount bolts
with engine oil; tighten the locknuts to the
NOTE: See Fig. 1 for an over-all view of the torque under Specifications, 400.
Neway Air Ride Suspension.
9. On tandem axle installations, do the previous
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface; then position three steps on the other axle.
the front tires straight ahead and chock them.
Release the parking brakes, and place the trans- 10. On suspensions equipped with an axle alignment
mission in neutral. feature (alignment bushings welded to slotted
frame brackets), proceed to Subject 190.
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle until the tires clear
the ground, then place safety stands under the On suspensions not equipped with an axle align-
rear of the vehicle to hold it in this position. ment feature, no further checking is required.
Apply the parking brakes; then remove the
3. Check the wheel bearing adjustment. Refer to chocks from the tires.
the rear axle section in this manual for instruc-
tions. Adjust or replace the wheel bearings as
needed.
4. Measure the lateral runout of the rear wheels. If
the runout on any wheel exceeds 0.18 inch (4.6
mm), replace the wheel before proceeding with
the axle alignment check.
5. Remove the safety stands and lower the rear of
the vehicle. Relieve any internal stresses in the
suspension by jacking the axles up and letting
them down; or, remove the tire chocks, then
move the vehicle back and forth (with the inter-
axle differential disengaged).
6. On either rear axle, measure the distance be-
tween the left frame rail and the nearest point on
the inside wheel rim. See Fig. 2, Dimension A.
7. On the same axle, measure the distance be-
tween the right frame rail and the nearest point
on the inside wheel rim ( Fig. 2, Dimension B).
8. Compare Dimension A with Dimension B. If
they’re within 1/8 inch (3.25 mm) of being equal,
alignment is not necessary. However, if they’re
different by more than 1/8 inch (3.25 mm), adjust
the lateral alignment.
8.1 Loosen the locknuts on the bolts that se-
cure the lateral rod mount to the frame
rail.
8.2 Add or remove one axle alignment shim
for each 1/8 inch (3.25 mm) difference
between Dimensions A and B. Adding
shims will decrease the measurement on
the side of the vehicle to which the lateral
rod is attached, and removing shims will
increase the measurement.

32.06 ARD 244-8
1 3
2 4
7
8
9
5 1
2
17
4
11 2 2
12 19
11 10 16
13 6
15 18 4 2
14
24
20
23
21 21
33 37 38
27 28 29 36 39
25. Equalizing Beam
26. Equalizing Beam
29. Washer
35 Center Bushing
34. Internal Tooth
03/17/93 f320127
Fig. 1

ARD 244-8 32.06
DIMENSION A DIMENSION B
(forward (forward
rear axle) rear axle)
DIMENSION A DIMENSION B
(rearmost (rearmost
axle) axle)
Measure here.
Dimension A equals dimension B

plus or minus 1/8" (3.25 mm).
03/17/93 f320182
Fig. 2, Rear Axle Lateral Alignment

ARD 244-8 32.06
Rear Axle Parallel Alignment
Parallel Alignment NYLON

BLOCK
1. Check and, if needed, adjust the lateral align-
ment of the rear axle(s) before checking parallel
alignment. Refer to Subject 180 for instructions. exhaust to atmosphere
2. Check the axles for parallel alignment. Refer to
the rear axle section in this manual for instruc- airflow to spring
tions.
3. Adjust the rear axle, if necessary.
3.1 Using jack stands, support the vehicle
ADJUSTMENT
frame at normal ride height. Disconnect CONTROL LOCKNUT
both height control valve linkages from airflow from LEVER
their respective control levers. See Fig. 1. air reservoir
Then exhaust all air from all air springs
by pushing the valve control levers down. LINKAGE
3.2 Remove the equalizing beam pivot con- 05/31/2005 f320183
nection locknut and bolt, and both spacer
washers. See Fig. 2. Lower the equaliz- Fig. 1, Height Control Valve
ing beam from the frame bracket. hicle (only that side), until the correct axle
alignment is obtained.
WARNING 3.6 With the axle aligned and the vehicle
WARNING: Wear protective goggles and gloves frame supported at normal ride height,
while grinding. Failure to do so could cause per- torque the equalizing beam front bushing
sonal injury resulting from sparks and metal de- locknut to the torque under Specifica-
bris from the grinding process. tions, 400.
3.3 Cut the welds off of the alignment bush- 3.7 Weld both of the alignment bushings to
ings on both sides of the frame bracket. the frame bracket, using AWS spec
Remove the alignment bushings; then E7018 welding rod or Linde 3/32 FC 72
grind any remaining weld material off of wire weld, or an equivalent. Weld (1/4-
the frame bracket and alignment bush- inch fillet) each bushing with three, 3/4-
ings. inch (19-mm) long welds. See Fig. 2.
3.4 Position the alignment bushings in the 4. Connect the linkages to their respective control
frame bracket; then raise the equalizing levers.
beam until the front eye is aligned with 5. Apply the parking brakes; then remove the jack
the frame bracket. Install the spacer stands from the frame and the chocks from the
washers and pivot connection bolt and tires.
locknut. Position the spacer washers as
shown in Fig. 2. Suspension installations
which have a 1/4-inch (6-mm) frame-rail
spacer between the forward frame-rail
bracket and the frame rail will require one
spacer washer on each side of the equal-
izing beam. Installations without a frame-
rail spacer require two spacer washers on
the inboard side of the equalizing beam.
3.5 Move the axle forward or backward by
rolling the wheels on that side of the ve-

32.06 ARD 244-8
ALIGNMENT
BUSHINGS 2 spacer washers on the
0.050" (12.7 mm) inboard side of the beam.
Axle Alignment
Adjustment
Weld 3 places
approximately
1−1/8−12 ROD BOLT
3/4" (19 mm) long. DELRIN
1/4
SPACER
Without Frame−Rail − With Alignment Bushings
1/4" FRAME−
RAIL SPACER
ALIGNMENT
BUSHINGS 1 spacer washer on
0.25" (6.4 mm) each side of the beam.
Axle Alignment
Adjustment
Weld 3 places
approximately
1−1/4 − 12 ROD BOLT
3/4" (19 mm) long.
1/4
With Frame−Rail Spacer − With Alignment Bushings
1/4" FRAME−
RAIL SPACER
1 spacer washer on
each side of the beam
No axle
alignment
adjustment.
1−1/4 − 12 ROD BOLT
With Frame−Rail Spacer − Without Alignment Bushings

03/18/93 f320079
Fig. 2, Spacer Washer Installation and Alignment Bushing Welding

ARD 244-8 32.06
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
Problem—All Air Springs Are Flat
Low air pressure in the vehicle brake Check the air pressure gauge on the instrument panel. If air pressure is low,
system. run the engine until a minimum pressure of 70 psi (483 kPa) is shown on the
gauge.
Air leaking from the suspension air Listen for leakage due to loose fittings or damaged air lines, air springs, brake
system or the air brake system. actuators or control valves. Tighten loose fittings or replace worn or damaged
air lines with new ones.
Problem—Air Spring(s) Flat on One Side of the Vehicle

Air leakage between the pressure holding Listen for leakage due to loose fittings or damaged air lines. Tighten loose
valve and the air spring(s). fittings or replace damaged lines with new ones.
Air spring leaking. Inspect the air spring for leaks caused by damage, wear, or deterioration. If
any air spring is leaking, install a new one.
Bent, broken, or disconnected height Inspect the linkage for damaged or loose parts. Reconnect loose linkage parts
control valve linkage. or replace damaged parts with new ones.
Height control valve out of adjustment. Disconnect the height control valve linkage from the height control valve
control lever. Move the lever upward. If the air spring then inflates, adjust the
height control valve.
Inoperative height control valve. If movement of the control lever in the previous step fails to inflate the air
spring, the height control valve is damaged. Replace the valve.
Problem—Tractor Leans Due to Unequal Inflation of the Air Springs

Damaged height control valve linkage. Inspect the height control valves and linkages for damage. Repair or replace
damaged parts.
Loose or missing height control valve Inspect for damage to the height control valve mounting bolts or adjustment
bolts or adjustment locknut. locknut. Replace any missing bolts or nuts, then adjust the height control
valve.
Height control valve out of adjustment. Adjust the height control valve.
Problem—Air Springs Deflate Rapidly When the Vehicle Is Parked

Air leakage from the suspension air Listen for leakage due to loose fittings or damaged air lines, air springs, or
system. height control valves. Tighten loose fittings and replace worn or damaged
parts with new ones.

32.06 ARD 244-8
Troubleshooting
Problem—Tractor Rides Too High or Too Low

Problem—Air Spring Blown Out

Air spring cut or punctured. Locate large leaks by listening for escaping air, and locate small leaks by
applying a soap and water solution to the suspected air spring and watching
for bubbles. Temporarily repair punctures or cuts less than 1/8-inch (3-mm)
long by applying hot patches on both sides of the hole. If the cut is more than
1/8-inch (3-mm) long, install a new air spring.
Tires, rims, or chains rubbing the air Check the clearance between the air spring and the tire. If the tire, rim, or
spring. chains contact the inflated air spring, change to narrower tires and rims to
provide clearance for tires with chains.
Air brake actuator rubbing against the air Relocate the brake actuator with factory approved parts to provide adequate
spring. clearance.
Problem—Air Spring Deflated Due to Fatigue

Driving the vehicle too long or too fast If the vehicle must be driven with the air springs deflated, maintain a speed of
with the air springs deflated. less than 30 mph (48 km/h), and drive only as far as the nearest repair facility.
Continual or repeated overextension of Inspect for broken or loose shock absorbers or shock absorber mounting
the air springs. brackets. Reconnect loose parts and replace any damaged parts. Check the
adjustment on the height control valve.
Problem—Air Spring Doesn’t Fully Deflate When All Weight Is Removed from the Suspension
Restricted air line between the height Disconnect the height control valve linkage, and push the control lever down.
control valve and the air spring. If the air spring remains inflated, check for a pinched or blocked line. Clean
out any plugged line and replace any damaged line.

ARD 244-8 32.06
Specifications
Suspension Torque Specifications (lubricated threads)

Shock Absorber Mount Locknut 3/4-16 110–150 (149–203)
Air Spring Upper Mounting Plate Locknut 3/4-16 31–42 (42–57)
Air Spring Upper Mounting Plate Capscrew 1/2-13 31–42 (42–57)
Air Spring Lower Mounting Plate Capscrew 1/2-13 31–42 (42–57)
Transverse Beam Bushing Locknuts 1-1/4–12 600–700 (814–950)
Equalizing Beam Center Bushing Locknut 3/4-16 150–200 (203–271)
1-1/8–12
Equalizing Beam Front Bushing Locknut 600–700 (814–950)
1-1/4–12
Lateral Rod Ball Stud Locknut 1-1/8–12 550–650 (746–880)
Lateral and Torque Rod Mounting Locknuts 5/8-18 110–150 (149–203)
Table 1, Suspension Torque Specifications (lubricated threads)
See Fig. 1 for the bushing installation tool.

32.06 ARD 244-8
Specifications
1.50
DIA.
Plunger
7.25 PLUNGER
.12
RADIUS
POLYURETHANE
BUSHING
.50
INSERTION SLEEVE
MIN. RADIUS
TORQUE ROD
1.75
BASE
1.25
2.00 DIA.
DIA.
3.50
Polyurethane Bushing
2.42
Insertion Assembly
Insertion
Sleeve .25
60°
RADIUS
2.88
1.12
.12 2.11 .12

2.22 RADIUS
Materials
1.81
DIA. MIN. RADIUS Bar, 2.00 Dia. Mild Steel
Tube, 3.50 o.d. Mild Steel
.12
x .75 Wall
Base 3.12
Bar, 3.00 Dia. Mild Steel
3.00
03/18/93 DIA. f320080
Fig. 1, Bushing Installation Tool

Rear Suspension, Hendrickson RS Series 32.07
General Description
General Description
The Hendrickson RS series suspensions use rubber
load cushions in place of leaf springs to lessen road FRAME HEAVY−DUTY
shocks. These cushions are mounted under each HANGER LOAD
frame rail, between frame-mounted brackets (frame CUSHION
hangers) and a saddle. See Fig. 1. For added stabil-
ity, two smaller cushions (making a total of three
cushions per frame rail) are optional on suspension
model RS–400, but standard on models RS–460,
RS–480, and RS–520. See Fig. 2. The RS–650 has
three large load cushions per frame rail. See Fig. 3.
The frame hangers at the top of each cushion have LOAD
vertical pins that extend down through rubber cush- CUSHION
ions and anchor in rubber bushings in the saddle.
See Fig. 4. The pins allow the saddles to move up SADDLE
and down as the rubber load cushions deflect, but
maintain lateral and fore-and-aft alignment of the
saddles. On turns, the rubber bushings allow the ax-
les a certain amount of in-and-out movement that
permits each axle to follow its own natural course 03/18/93 f320149
more closely. See Fig. 5. Once a straight track is
resumed, the action of the bushings squares off the Fig. 2, Hendrickson Suspension Models RS–460, RS–
480, and RS–520
tandem so the leading tire sets the tracking pattern
for the rear tires. The saddle at the bottom of each cushion holds
equalizer beams, and beam hangers at the ends of
the equalizer beams hod the axles. Torque rods,
mounted between the axles and the frame rails and
frame crossmembers, stabilize axle movement
FRAME caused by accelerating and braking.
HANGER
All suspension fasteners require periodic tightening.
For suspension inspecting, lubricating, and fastener
torque checking instructions, refer to the suspension
WARNING
WARNING: Failure to periodically torque the sus-
pension fasteners could result in damage to the
LOAD frame hangers or separation of components. This
CUSHION
could cause a loss of vehicle control, resulting in
SADDLE
injury or property damage.
CAUTION
03/18/93 f320154
CAUTION: Failure to apply Alumilastic® com-
Fig. 1, Hendrickson Suspension Model RS–400 num and steel parts contact each other, could
age to the components or parts.

32.07 Rear Suspension, Hendrickson RS Series
General Description
HEAVY−DUTY
LOAD
CUSHION
FRAME
HANGER
In and out
movement
on corners.
03/18/93 f320151
Fig. 5, Axle Movement Allowed With Rubber Bushings
SADDLE
03/18/93 f320148
Fig. 3, Hendrickson Suspension Model RS–650
LOAD
CUSHION
VERTICAL DRIVE
PIN BUSHING
VERTICAL
DRIVE PIN
03/18/93 f320152
Fig. 4, Load Cushion Assembly

Suspension Removal and Installation
Removal (See Fig. 1) Installation (See Fig. 1)

1. Chock the front tires. 1. Roll the axles under the vehicle frame. Align the
center bushing of each equalizer beam with the
2. Drain the vehicle air system.
center of the saddle legs.
3. Disconnect all air lines leading to the rear axles,
2. Raise the vehicle frame off the safety stands,
marking the lines for later assembly reference.
then remove the safety stands.
Plug or cap all lines and fittings to prevent dirt
from entering the system. 3. Lower the frame, centering the saddles on the
beam center bushings.
4. Disconnect the driveline rear universal joint from
the forward-rear axle. Then, remove the interaxle 4. Install the saddle caps, washers and new self-
driveline. For instructions, refer to the driveline locking nuts. Do not tighten.
section in this manual.
5. Install the torque rods. For instructions, refer to
5. Manually release the spring brake chambers. For Subject 170.
instructions, refer to the brake section in this
manual. 6. Tighten the saddle cap locknuts 225 to 275 lbf·ft
(305 to 375 N·m).
WARNING NOTE: Maintain an even gap between the

saddle cap and the saddle when tightening the
When the torque rods are disconnected from the self-locking nuts.
axle brackets, the axles become free to pivot on
the equalizer beam end bushings. Keep clear of 7. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
the beam hangers and beam ends to avoid pos- and axle, and lower the vehicle.
sible injury. 8. Manually reset the spring brake chambers. For
6. Remove the torque rods. For instructions, refer instructions, refer to the brake section in this
to Subject 170. manual.
7. Raise the rear of the vehicle so that all weight is 9. Connect the driveline rear universal joint to the
removed from the suspension. Then, block the forward-rear axle. Connect the interaxle driveline.
axles and the frame with safety stands. Make For instructions, refer to the driveline section in
sure the stands will securely support the weight this manual.
of the axles and the frame. 10. Uncap all air lines and fittings, then connect the
NOTE: Do not raise the vehicle to the point lines leading to the rear axles.
where the weight of the suspension and axles 11. Check the axle pinion angle. For instructions,
hangs from the vehicle. refer to the driveline section.
8. Remove the saddle cap nuts and washers from
each side of the vehicle, and remove the saddle
caps.
9. Raise the rear of the vehicle frame until there is
enough clearance to roll the axles out from under
the vehicle. Install safety stands under the frame,
then roll the axles—with the equalizer beams
attached—out from under the vehicle.

1. Split−Ring Adapter
41
Assembly
2. Nut
3. Washer
4. Adapter
40
5. Intermediate Tube
6. Adapter Plug
7. Split−Ring
8. Adapter Bolt
and Washer
9. Adapter−Type 39
End Support
10. Nut
11. Washer
12. Adapter
13. Intermediate Tube
14. End Bushing
15. Adapter 38
16. Adapter Bolt and
Washer
17. Thrustwashers 37
18. Bushing Seal
19. Bronze Center Bushing
20. Bushing Seal 36
21. Thrustwashers
22. Rubber Center Bushing
23. Equalizer Beam 35 16
23
24. Crosstube 15
25. Saddle Cap 34
26. Washer 24 14
27. Nut 22 33
28. Saddle Cap Stud 28
29. Bronze Bushing Grease 25 29 32
Fitting 13
30. Retainer Cap Stud 30
31. Nut 26
27 31 9 8
32. Vertical Drive Pin Nut 12
33. Vertical Drive Pin 7
Washer 11
34. Retainer Cap 10 6
35. Vertical Drive Pin 21 5
Bushing 20
36. Saddle Assembly 4
19
37. Load Cushion 3
38. Frame Hanger and 2
Vertical Drive Pin 1
18
39. Saddle Plate
17
40. Heavy−Duty Load
Cushion
41. Frame Hanger
03/18/93 f320146
Fig. 1, Hendrickson RS Series Heavy-Duty Suspension

Saddle Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the suspension. For instructions, refer to
Subject 100.
2. Support the saddle assembly with a floor jack.
3. Remove the vertical drive pin locknuts and the SADDLE
concave washers (see Fig. 1).
On rebound control kit installations, use a 3/4-
inch drive socket to remove the stop nuts. Then
remove the bumper and the concave washers.
See Fig. 2 .
VERTICAL
DRIVE PIN
CONCAVE
WASHER
BUMPER
LOAD STOP NUT

CUSHION 12/29/94 f320159
Fig. 2, Rebound Control Kit

VERTICAL DRIVE 3. Install the drive pin washers (with the concave
PIN BUSHING end pointing down) over the threaded ends of
VERTICAL the drive pins.
DRIVE PIN 4. Install the vertical drive pin locknuts and tighten
03/18/93 f320152 175 to 225 lbf·ft (235 to 305 N·m).
Fig. 1, Load Cushion Assembly On rebound control kit installations, install the
stop nuts, bumpers,and the concave washers.
Tighten the stop nuts 175 to 225 lbf·ft (235 to
WARNING 305 N·m).
The leaf spring assembly is heavy. Use care 5. Install the suspension. For instructions, refer to
when handling it to prevent injury. Subject 100.
4. Lower the saddle and load cushions from the
frame hanger and the vertical drive pins.
Installation
1. Apply Texaco Compound L, or an equivalent rust
preventive lubricant, on the vertical drive pins
and the vertical drive pin bushings.
2. Position the rubber load cushions on the saddle.
Raise the saddle assembly, guiding the vertical
drive pin bushings over the vertical drive pins.

Load Cushion and Vertical Drive Pin Bushing
Replacement
Replacement 7. Apply Texaco Compound L, or an equivalent rust

preventive lubricant, on the drive pin bushings
and the saddle bores.
1. Remove the saddle assembly. For instructions,
refer to Subject 110. 8. Fit the bushings into the saddle bores. Position
the drive pin bushing retainer cap and install the
NOTE: If replacing only the heavy-duty load retainer cap locknuts. Tighten the locknuts 100 to
cushions, removal of the saddle assembly is not 125 lbf·ft (135 to 170 N·m ).
needed. These cushions can be forced out after
raising the frame to open the area between the 9. Install the rubber load cushions.
saddle and the frame hanger brackets. 10. Install the saddle assembly. For instructions, re-
2. Inspect all of the rubber load cushions for cuts or fer to Subject 110.
other damage. Replace a load cushion if these
conditions exist.
3. Measure each load cushion. If the height of a
load cushion is less than 3-11/16 inches (94
mm), replace it.
4. Remove the retainer locknuts from the drive pin
bushing retainer cap, and remove the retainer
cap.
5. Using a hydraulic press, press the vertical drive
pin bushings out of the saddle from the top.
If the outer sleeve of the bushing is frozen in the
saddle bore, press out the inner sleeve and rub-
ber insert, then work the outer sleeve out of the
saddle bore.
WARNING
WARNING: Do not use a cutting torch to remove
the vertical drive pin bushings. High heat will
weaken the saddle, which could cause a loss of
vehicle control, resulting in injury or property
damage.
6. Using emery cloth, remove small nicks or
scratches from the vertical drive pin and the ver-
tical drive pin bushing. Clean the saddle bores
with a solvent.
WARNING
manufacturer.

Equalizer Beam Adapter- and Tube-Type End Support
Removal
1 2 3 4
IMPORTANT: To ensure that the required tools
are available, see the table under Specifica-
tions, 400 before beginning these procedures.
Special tools are available from the Owatonna
Tool Company, Owatonna, Minnesota, or an af-
filiated dealer. Although these tools are recom-
mended, shop-made adapters can be used if a
vertical hydraulic press with a 50-ton capacity is
available. Dimensions for the shop-made adapt-
ers are provided in the table under Specifica- 5
6 7
tions, 400.
1. Axle Beam Hanger 5. End Tube Nut
1. Chock the front tires. 2. Bushing Inner Sleeve 6. Equalizer Beam
2. Remove the saddle cap nuts and washers, then 3. Rubber End Bushing 7. Bushing Outer Sleeve
remove the saddle cap. Support the equalizer 4. Beam End Tube
beam with safety stands. 03/26/92 f320337
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle until the saddle Fig. 1, Equalizer Beam Tube-Type End Support
studs clear the equalizer beam. Block the axles
and frame with safety stands.
4. Remove the wheels and tires. For instructions, 1
refer to the wheels and tires section in this
manual.
10
5. Remove the brake shoes, brake spider, and
brake backing plate (dust shield). Refer to the
2
brake section in this manual for instructions.
9
6. Apply a penetrating oil to all beam end connec-
tions.
7. On a tube-type end support ( see Fig. 1), re- 3 8
move the tube nuts from both sides of the beam
end tube.
On an adapter-type end support ( see Fig. 2),
remove the nut, washers, and the adapter bolt. 4 5
6 7 NOTE: New bushing
will have a small gap.
8. If using Owatonna tools, remove the tube-type
end supports by positioning the receiving tube 1. Axle Beam Hanger 6. Equalizer Beam
over the outboard end of the beam end tube. 2. Adapter 7. Bushing Inner Sleeve
Position the hydraulic ram, pulling screw, speed 3. Adapter Bolt Nut 8. Adapter Bolt
nut, and the removing adapter ( see Fig. 3). 4. Rubber End Bushing 9. Washer (both ends)
5. Bushing Outer Sleeve 10. Intermediate Tube
Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the ram,
07/26/93 f320338
and apply pressure to remove the beam end
tube. Fig. 2, Equalizer Beam Adapter-Type End Support
9. If using Owatonna tools, remove the adapter-
(outboard side) to a depth of about 1-1/2
type end supports as follows:
inches (38 mm).
9.1 Using either a 7/8- or 15/16-inch hand-tap
( see Fig. 4), tap the adapter bolt hole

BEAM EQUALIZER
RAM HANGER BEAM
RECEIVING
PULLING TUBE
SCREW
TUBE−TYPE REMOVING
SPEED NUT HANGER PIN ADAPTER
03/18/93 f320160
Fig. 3, Tube-Type Beam End Removal

cup and secure it with the hexnut. A regu-
lar bolt may be used to remove the in-
board adaptor. See Fig. 8.
1
RECEIVING CUP END BEAM
HANGER
HEXNUT
1. Hand−Tap
03/18/93 f320161
Fig. 4 REMOVING
NOTE: Determine the correct size of hand- SCREW
END BEAM
tap by using the plug gauge. If the gauge ADAPTER
passes through the adapter bolt hole, use a PLUG
15/16-inch tap; if it doesn’t, use a 7/8-inch 03/30/93 f320162
tap. Fig. 5
9.2 On the outboard side of the axle, thread 9.4 Hold the removing screw and turn the nut
the removing screw into the tapped hole. with a 1-1/2 inch open- or box-end
Position the receiving cup and hexnut on wrench. Turn the nut until the adapter
the removing screw ( see Fig. 5). Turn plug bottoms on the inside of the receiv-
the hexnut until the adapter plug breaks ing cup.
loose and bottoms on the inside of the
receiving cup. See Fig. 6. If needed, add 10. If not using Owatonna tools, remove the end
spacers to complete removal of the supports.
adapter plug. See Fig. 7.
10.1 For tube-type end supports, install a
9.3 On the inboard side of the axle, position spacer bushing between one end-tube
the receiving cup over the adapter plug. nut and the beam hanger. Tighten the nut
On the outboard side of the axle, insert to pull the end tube out of the beam end
the removing screw through the receiving bushing. If the tube doesn’t come loose,

and wedge the adapter out of the beam

hanger. Do the same on the outboard
adapter.
If a split-ring adapter is used, drive a
chisel between the two halves to remove
the end support plug. Drive the plug into
the equalizer beam end bushing until it is
clear of the beam hanger. After the equal-
izer beam is removed, drive the adapter
plug out of the bushing.
03/18/93 f320163 END BEAM

HANGER RECEIVING
Fig. 6 CUP
REMOVING
SCREW
SPACERS END BEAM
HANGER
RECEIVING CUP
REMOVING HEXNUT
SCREW
END BEAM
ADAPTER PLUG
HEXNUT 03/30/93 f320165
END BEAM Fig. 8

ADAPTER
PLUG 11. Remove the ends of the equalizer beams from
03/30/93 f320164 the axle beam hangers.
12. Lower the equalizer beams and the crosstube to
Fig. 7 the ground. Remove the thrustwashers and pull
use a hack-saw and saw the tube along the beams from the crosstube.
the inside surface of both axle beam
hanger legs. Installation
WARNING 1. On adapter-type end supports, apply Texaco
Compound L, or an equivalent rust preventive
WARNING: Don’t use a cutting torch to remove lubricant, to the axle beam hanger eyes, beam
the equalizer beams from the beam hangers. The end bushing inner sleeve, end support adapters,
equalizer beams are heat-treated, and using a outside surface of the bushing intermediate
cutting torch could weaken them. This could re- tubes, and the ends of the crosstube.
sult in a loss of vehicle control and possible per- Install the crosstube and thrustwashers in both
sonal injury or property damage. equalizer beam center bushings.
10.2 For adapter-type end supports, a relief is On tube-type end supports, apply Texaco Com-
located on each side of the adapter ( pound L, or an equivalent rust preventive lubri-
see Fig. 9). Turn the adapter with an air cant,to the axle beam hanger eyes, beam end
chisel, then insert a chisel into the relief bushing inner sleeve, outer surface of the beam
on the inboard adapter. Drive the chisel in

end tubes, beam center bushing inner sleeves, end bushings. Hand-tighten both nuts on the
and the ends of the crosstube. beam end tubes.
Using SAE 20 oil, lubricate the threads of the 4. Position the saddle caps on the saddle cap
beam end tube, then install the crosstube and studs, then install the washers and new self-
thrustwashers in both equalizer beam center locking nuts. Tighten the nuts 225 to 275 lbf·ft
bushings. (305 to 375 N·m).
2. Position the equalizer beam assembly under the 5. Tighten the adapter bolt nuts 210 to 240 lbf·ft
axles, then raise the assembly and place the for- (285 to 325 N·m). Make sure the flat section of
ward ends of each beam in the forward-rear axle the adapter flange is in the vertical position.
beam hangers. Align the beam end bushings See Fig. 10.
with the beam hangers.
On adapter-type end supports, install the inter- AXLE BRACKET
mediate tubes, the adapters, the adapter bolt,
washers, and nut in each beam end to hold the
beam in the axle beam hangers. Do not tighten.
On tube-type end supports, install the beam end
tubes through the beam hangers and the beam
end bushings. Hand-tighten both nuts on the ADAPTER
beam end tubes. FLAT SIDE
EQUALIZER
BEAM
03/30/93 f320354
ADAPTER
Fig. 10
6. Tighten the end tube nuts 375 to 425 lbf·ft (510
to 575 N·m).
CHISEL
RELIEFS WARNING
WARNING: The adapter bolt nuts and end tube
03/30/93 f320166
nuts must be tightened to the values in the steps
above. If not, the metal surfaces of the end sup-
Fig. 9 port assembly will rub, and excessive wear to the
beam hanger legs and end bushing inner sleeves
3. Place the rear ends of each beam in the will occur. This could result in separation of sus-
rearmost-axle beam hangers. Align the beam pension components, loss of vehicle control, and
end bushings with the beam hangers. possible injury or property damage.
On adapter-type end supports, install the inter- 7. Install the brake backing plate (dust shield),
mediate tubes, the adapters, the adapter bolt, brake spider, and brake shoes. Refer to the
washers, and nut in each beam end to hold the brake section in this manual for instructions.
8. Install the wheels and tires. For instructions, refer
On tube-type end supports, install the beam end to the wheels and tires section in this manual.

Equalizer Beam End Bushing Removal and
Installation
Removal
WARNING
WARNING: Don’t use a cutting torch to remove
the beam end bushing. Equalizer beams are heat-
treated by the manufacturer. Using a cutting
torch could weaken the beams, which could
cause a loss of vehicle control, resulting in injury
or property damage.
1. Remove the equalizer beam ends from the axle 03/23/93 f320167
beam hangers. For instructions, refer to Sub-
ject 130. Fig. 1
2. Cut off the protruding rubber from one side of stop and check the alignment of the receiv-
each beam end bushing ( see Fig. 1). ing tool and removal adapter. If both tools
3. If using Owatonna tools, remove the beam end are aligned correctly, attach a sledging
bushings as follows ( see Fig. 2): adapter on the speed nut end of the pulling
screw. Maintaining hydraulic pressure, strike
3.1 Install the receiving adapter on the receiv- the sledging adapter with a heavy hammer.
ing tube.
A loud noise followed by a sudden drop of
3.2 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the the pressure gauge reading indicate the
pulling screw through the end bushing. bushing has broken loose.
3.3 Install the end bushing removing adapter 4. If using shop-made adapters, remove the beam
on the inboard side of the beam end end bushings as follows:
bushing. Check that the cone-shaped sur-
face of the adapter is facing the equalizer 4.1 Remove the equalizer beams. For instruc-
beam. tions, refer to Subject 130.
IMPORTANT: Align the receiving tube so 4.2 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton
that the bushing will clear the edges of the vertical hydraulic press.
tube when force is exerted against the 4.3 Center the shop-made adapter (refer to
beam. Align the removing adapter so that the table under Specifications, 400) on
force is exerted only on the bushing to en- the trimmed end of the equalizer beam
sure a clean pull through the beam. bushing. Press the end bushing from the
beam eye.
3.4 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw.
Full thread engagement is needed.
Installation
3.5 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the
ram and apply force until the ram cylinder 1. Using emery cloth, remove all scale, rust, or cor-
reaches its stroke limit. rosion from the beam eyes. Inspect the equalizer
3.6 Release the pressure, add spacers, and beam eyes for cracks, gouges, or damage. Re-
tighten the speed nut. About three adjust- place the equalizer beam if any of these condi-
ments are needed to completely remove tions exist.
the end bushing. 2. Using emery cloth, clean the outer sleeves of the
NOTE: If the pressure gauge on the hydrau- new equalizer beam end bushings. Apply a thin
coating of Texaco Compound L, or an equivalent
lic pumping unit reads 10,000 psi (68 950
rust preventive lubricant, to the surface of the
kPa) and the bushing has not broken loose, outer sleeves on the new bushing.

Installation
HEXNUT
REMOVING ADAPTER
ADAPTER CLAMP
HEXNUT PLATE
PULLING
SCREW
SPEED RECEIVING SPEED RECEIVING

NUT ADAPTER NUT ADAPTER
RECEIVING PULLING
TUBE SCREW
03/23/93 f320330 03/23/93 f320331
Fig. 2 Fig. 3
3. If using Owatonna tools, install the beam end ments are needed to completely install
bushings as follows (see Fig. 3): the end bushing.
3.1 Fit the adapter clamp over the exposed NOTE: The pressure gauge on the pumping
rubber on the new bushing. Tighten the unit should read 4000 to 5500 psi (27 580 to
clamp nuts until the clamp is flush against 37 920 kPa) during installation. If the read-
the bushing outer sleeve. ing reaches the operating limit of 10,000 psi
3.2 Install the receiving adapter on the receiv- (68 950 kPa) and the bushing is not going
ing tube. into the beam end, check the alignment of
3.3 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the the bushing, tooling, and hydraulic equip-
pulling screw through the end bushing. ment. Installation is complete when the
adapter clamp is flush against the beam.
3.4 Center the adapter clamp and bushing on
the inboard side of the beam end. 3.9 Install the equalizer beam ends on the
axle beam hangers. For instructions, refer
3.5 Install the adapter plate and secure it with to Subject 130.
the hexnut.
4. If using shop-made adapters, install the beam
IMPORTANT: Check that the new bushing end bushings as follows (see Fig. 4):
and the installation tools are centered so
that the bushing will clear the receiving tube 4.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton
hydraulic press.
when force is exerted against the beam.
4.2 Using a sheave puller, compress the ex-
3.6 Tighten the speed nut and remove any posed rubber of the bushing until the
slack in the assembly. puller jaws are flush against the end of
3.7 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the the bushing outer sleeve.
ram and apply force until the ram cylinder 4.3 Position the shop-made adapter (refer to
reaches its stroke limit. the table under Specifications, 400)
3.8 Release the pressure, add spacers, and
tighten the speed nut. About three adjust-

Installation
against the jaws of the sheave puller.

Press the new bushing into the beam
eye.
PRESS
ADAPTER
SHEAVE PULLER
EQUALIZER
BEAM
BUSHING
03/13/93 f320068
Fig. 4
4.4 Install the equalizer beam. For instruc-

Equalizer Beam Bar Pin/Bushing Assembly Removal,
Installation, and Alignment
Removal 9.2 Center the shop-made tool, and press the

bar pin/bushing assembly from the beam
end eye.
NOTE: From July 1995, most Hendrickson sus-
pensions are manufactured with a bar pin-type
bushing assembly that connects the equalizer Installation
beam to the axle. The bar pin/bushing assembly
can be serviced without removing the brake as- IMPORTANT: Do not reuse the old fasteners.
sembly. Replace them during installation.
1. Using emery cloth, remove all scale, rust, or cor-
WARNING rosion from the beam eyes. Inspect the equalizer
beam eyes for cracks, gouges, or damage. Re-
Do not use a cutting torch to remove the equal- place the equalizer beam if any of these condi-
izer beams from the beam hangers. The equalizer tions exist.
beams are heat-treated, and using a cutting torch
could weaken them. This could result in a loss of 2. The outer metals of some Hendrickson rubber
vehicle control, possible personal injury, or prop- bushings are covered with a phosphate coating
erty damage. that acts as a rust preventive. This coating must
be removed with emery cloth before installation.
1. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake. Also apply a coating of grease to the cleaned
2. Chock the front tires. outer metals of the bar pin/bushing assembly,
and to the beam end eyes to help when pressing
3. Support the equalizer beams with jack stands. the bar pin/bushing assembly into the beam end
4. Remove the four bolts attaching the equalizer eye.
beam to the saddle. 3. If using Owatonna tools, install the bar pin/
5. Apply a penetrating oil to the threads of the two bushing assemblies using Owatonna recommen-
1-inch (25 mm) bolts and locknuts attaching each dations.
bar pin/bushing assembly to the axle brackets. 4. If using shop-made tools, create the needed as-
6. Remove the bolts. If the fasteners are rusted in sembly tool from a 5-inch (127 mm) length of
place, an air hammer chisel may be used to 5-inch (127 mm) O.D. steel tubing with 1/2-inch
loosen the bolts attaching the bar pin/bushing (13 mm) wall thickness. See Fig. 1. The assem-
assembly to the axle brackets. bly tool must be split in half, then clamped or
bolted together to compress the rubber to allow
NOTE: The upper torque rods may have to be contact with the bushing outer metal.
disconnected at the top of the axle, and the axle
rotated to a more vertical position to assist in 4.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton
hydraulic press with the beam end bore
the removal of the equalizer beam from the axle squarely supported on the bed for safety
bracket. and to avoid bending the equalizer beam.
7. Remove the equalizer beam from the axle beam 4.2 Before pressing the bar pin/bushing as-
hangers. sembly, align the holes in the end of the
8. The bar pin/bushing assemblies can be removed bar pin/bushing assembly with the center
from the equalizer beams with Owatonna tools. line of the equalizer beam. This will help
To do so, follow Owatonna recommendations. assembly into the axle brackets. Care
should be taken during the assembly pro-
9. If shop-made tools are used, remove the bar pin/ cess to ensure the orientation of the bar
bushing assemblies from the beam ends as fol- pin/bushing assembly in the beam eye.
lows:
NOTE: After installation, verify that the bar
9.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton pin/bushing assembly is centered in the end
vertical hydraulic press.
of the beam.

A
3 2 B
C
6 D
2 BB
I
E
8 AA
F
1 G
7
H
04/23/96 f320522
1. Bolt, 1" (25 mm) 4. Locknut 7. Equalizer Beam

2. Washer, 1" (25 mm) o.d. 5. Alignment Pins 8. Alignment Pin Hole
3. Assembly Tool 6. Bar Pin/Bushing Assembly
A. 5.0" (127 mm) D. 0.50" (13 mm) G. 2.62" (67 mm)
B. 4.43" (113 mm) E. 1.07" (27 mm) H. 5.0" (127 mm)
C. 4.12" (105 mm) F. 1.54" (39 mm) I. 1.0" (25 mm)
AA.Recess flat counter bore, 2.0" (51 mm) x 0.25" (6 mm) deep.
BB.Tool wall, 0.50" (13 mm), top view.
NOTE: The material
IMPORTANT: The assembly
used to tool
make must
the be
toolsplit
is: 0.50"
in half(13
as mm)
shown.
wall x 5.0" (127 mm) o.d. x 5.0" (127 mm) long steel tubing.
Fig. 1, Assembly Tool (exploded view, with manufacturing information)

5. Install the equalizer beam on the axle hangers. Alignment
6. Attach the bar pin/bushing assembly to the axle
brackets. Tighten the 1-inch (25 mm) bolts 450 to For a detailed adjustment procedure, refer to Hen-
600 lbf·ft (610 to 813 N·m). drickson’s service literature, Bar Pin Alignment In-
structions, Technical Publication No. 17730-213.
NOTE: Bar pin/bushing assembly kits are avail-
able with or without alignment shims. The instruction publication may be obtained from:
7. Install the four bolts attaching the equalizer beam Hendrickson Truck Suspension Systems
to the saddle. Tighten 225 to 275 lbf·ft (305 to 1-630-910-2800
375 N·m). 1-800-973-0360
(fax) 1-630-378-4849
8. Remove the jack stands. 800 South Frontage Road
9. Remove the chocks from the tires. Woodridge, IL 60517-4904

Equalizer Beam Rubber Center Bushing Removal
and Installation
Removal IMPORTANT: Align the receiving tube so

that the bushing will clear the edges of the
NOTE: If using Owatonna tools, removal of the tube when force is exerted against the
equalizer beam is not required for removal or beam. Align the removing adapter so that
installation of the rubber center bushing. force is exerted only on the bushing to en-
sure a clean pull through the beam.
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle so that all weight is Full thread engagement is needed.
removed from the suspension. Block the axles
and the frame with safety stands. Make sure the
stands will securely support the weight of the
axles and the frame.
NOTE: Do not raise the vehicle to the point
where the weight of the suspension and axles
hangs from the vehicle.
caps.
4. Raise the rear of the truck frame until the saddle
studs clear the equalizer beam. Install safety
stands under the frame.
5. Using a 2-1/2 inch diameter hole saw (
see Fig. 1), cut out the end plug from the center
bushing on each side of the suspension, and re- 12/28/94 f320168
move the crosstube.
Fig. 1
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not use a cutting torch to burn out
the end plugs. The equalizer beams are heat-
treated, and the use of a cutting torch could REMOVING
weaken the beam. ADAPTER
6. On the inboard side of the equalizer beam, in-
spect the exposed edge of the bushing’s outer
sleeve. PULLING HEXNUT
SCREW
7. Chisel or grind off any portion of the outer sleeve
that has flared over the surface of the equalizer
beam. SPEED
NUT
8. If using Owatonna tools, remove the rubber cen- RECEIVING
ter bushings as follows ( see Fig. 2): TUBE
8.1 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the

pulling screw through the center bushing.
03/23/93 f320332
8.2 Install the center bushing removing
adapter on the inboard side of the beam Fig. 2
eye.

and Installation
8.4 Install spacers between the ram cylinder 3. If using Owatonna tools, install the rubber center
and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut bushings (see Fig. 3).
and remove any slack in the assembly.
3.1 Center the hydraulic ram and slide the
8.5 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the pulling screw through the beam eye.
ram and apply force until the ram cylinder
reaches its stroke limit.
HEXNUT
ments are needed to completely remove INSTALLING
the bushing. ADAPTER
NOTE: If the pressure gauge on the hydrau-

lic pumping unit reads 10,000 psi (68 950
BUSHING
kPa) and the bushing has not broken loose,
stop and check the alignment of the receiv-
ing tool and removal adapter. If both tools SPEED
are aligned correctly, attach a sledging NUT PULLING
SCREW
adapter on the speed nut end of the pulling
the sledging adapter with a heavy hammer.
Aloud noise followed by a sudden drop of
the pressure gauge reading indicate that the 03/23/93 f320333
bushing has broken loose.
Fig. 3
9. If using shop-made adapters, remove the equal-
izer beams. For instructions, refer to Sub- 3.2 Position the bushing on the inboard side
ject 130. of the beam eye.
9.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton IMPORTANT: Center the new bushing to
vertical hydraulic press. ensure a clean pull through the beam eye.
9.2 Position the shop-made adapter (refer to 3.3 Fit the installing adapter over the inner
the table under Specifications, 400) on sleeve and against the outer sleeve of the
the outer metal edge of the equalizer bushing.
beam bushing. Press the center bushing
from the beam eye. 3.4 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw.
Installation 3.5 Install spacers between the ram cylinder
and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut
1. Using emery cloth, remove all scale, rust, or cor- and remove any slack in the assembly.
rosion from the beam eyes. Inspect the equalizer 3.6 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the
beam eyes for cracks, gouges, or damage. Re- ram and apply force until the ram cylinder
place the equalizer beam if any of these condi- reaches its stroke limit.
tions exist.
2. Using emery cloth, clean the outer sleeves of the tighten the speed nut. About
new equalizer beam center bushings. Apply a
thin coating of Texaco Compound L, or an three adjustments are needed to com-
equivalent rust preventive lubricant, to the sur- pletely install the center bushing.
face of the outer sleeves on the new bushing.
NOTE: The pressure gauge on the pumping
unit should read 4000 to 5500 psi (27 580 to

and Installation
37 920 kPa) during installation. If the read-

ing reaches the operating limit of 10,000 psi
(68 950 kPa) and the bushing is not going
into the beam, check the alignment of the
bushing, tooling, and hydraulic equipment.
Installation is complete when the installing
adapter is flush against the beam.
3.8 Position the crosstube in the center bush-
ings.
WARNING
WARNING: Wear protective welding masks and
heat, sparks, and flying debris from the welding
process.
3.9 Arc weld new end plugs to the tire side of
each center bushing inner sleeve.
NOTE: Heat from welding the end plugs will
not affect the beam or the new rubber bush-
ings because of their distance from the point
of welding.
4. Position the saddle caps on the saddle cap
studs, then install the washers and new self-
locking nuts. Tighten the nuts 225 to 275 lbf·ft
(305 to 375 N·m).
5. If using shop-made adapters, position the equal-
izer beam on a 50-ton hydraulic press.
5.1 Using standard center bushings with the
end plugs welded in place, position the
shop-made adapter (refer to the table un-
der Specifications, 400,) over the inner
sleeve of the bushing. Check that the
adapter bottoms against the bushing
outer sleeve, then press the new bushing
into the beam eye.
5.2 Install the equalizer beams. For instruc-

Equalizer Beam Bronze Center Bushing Removal
and Installation
Removal 6.3 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw. Full

thread engagement is needed.
NOTE: If using Owatonna tools, you can re-
move or install the bronze center bushing with-
out removing the equalizer beam.
1. Chock the front tires. REMOVING/
INSTALLING
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle so that all weight is ADAPTER
stands will securely support the weight of the HEXNUT
where the weight of the suspension and axles SPEED PULLING
hangs from the vehicle. NUT SCREW
each side of the suspension, and remove the
saddle caps.
4. Raise the rear of the truck frame until the saddle 03/23/93 f320334
stands under the frame. Fig. 1
5. Using a 2-1/2 inch diameter hole saw, cut out the 6.4 Install spacers between the ram cylinder
retaining disk from the center bushing on each and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut
side of the suspension, and remove the cross- and remove any slack in the assembly.
tube.
CAUTION reaches its stroke limit.
CAUTION: Do not use a cutting torch to burn out 6.6 Release the pressure, add spacers, and
the retaining disk. The equalizer beams are heat tighten the speed nut. About three adjust-
treated, and the use of a cutting torch could ments are needed to completely remove
weaken the beam. the center bushing.
6. If using Owatonna tools, remove the bronze cen- NOTE: If the pressure gauge on the hydrau-
ter bushing (see Fig. 1). lic pumping unit reads 10,000 psi (68 950
6.1 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the kPa) and the bushing has not broken loose,
pulling screw through the center bushing. stop and check the alignment of the receiv-
6.2 Install the center bushing removing ing tool and removal adapter. If both tools
adapter on the inboard side of the beam are aligned correctly, attach a sledging
eye. adapter on the speed nut end of the pulling
IMPORTANT: Align the receiving tube so the sledging adapter with a heavy hammer.
that the bushing will clear the edges of the A loud noise followed by a sudden drop of
tube when force is exerted against the the pressure gauge reading indicate that the
beam. Align the removing adapter so that bushing has broken loose.
force is exerted only on the bushing to en-
sure a clean pull through the beam. 7. If using shop-made adapters, remove the equal-
izer beams. For instructions, refer to Sub-
ject 130.

and Installation
7.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton of the bushing are aligned with the vertical
vertical hydraulic press. centerline of the equalizer beam (see
Fig. 3).
7.2 Center the shop-made adapter (refer to
the table in Specifications, 400) on the 4.3 Fit the installing adapter and the
center bushing. Press the bushing from removing/installing adapter against the
the beam eye. outer sleeve of the bushing. Make sure
the deep ridge on the installing adapter is
Installation positioned against the bronze bushing
(see Fig. 4).
1. Using emery cloth, remove all scale, rust, or cor- 4.4 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw. Full
rosion from the beam eyes. Inspect the equalizer thread engagement is needed.
place the equalizer beam if any of these condi- BUSHING LUBE
tions exist. GROOVES
SEAL
2. Using emery cloth, clean the outer sleeves of the GREASE FITTING
thin coating of Texaco Compound L, or an
equivalent rust preventive lubricant, to the sur-
face of the outer sleeves on the new bushing,
and to the inside surface of the beam eye.
3. Position the bushing on the equalizer beam eye.
4. If using Owatonna tools, install the bronze center
bushings (see Fig. 2).
CENTER BUSHING
ASSEMBLY
REMOVING/
INSTALLING 01/03/95
Vertical Centerline of Beam f320074
ADAPTER
Fig. 3
INSTALLING
ADAPTER
BUSHING INSTALLING ADAPTER
REMOVING/
HEXNUT
INSTALLING
ADAPTER
SPEED
NUT PULLING
SCREW
03/23/93 f320335
Fig. 2
BUSHING
4.1 Center the hydraulic ram and slide the DEEP RIDGE
pulling screw through the beam eye. 03/31/93 f320171
4.2 Position the bushing on the inboard side Fig. 4

of the beam eye. Check that the grooves

and Installation
4.5 Install spacers between the ram cylinder

and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut SHALLOW RIDGE
and remove any slack in the assembly. INSTALLING ADAPTER
ments are needed to completely install the
center bushing.
ing reaches the operating limit of 10,000 psi REMOVING/
BUSHING INSTALLING
(68 950 kPa) and the bushing is not going SEAL
into the beam, check the alignment of the 03/31/93 ADAPTER f320355
bushing, tooling, and hydraulic equipment. Fig. 5
adapter is flush against the beam. 7. Install the grease fitting into the beam hub. Ro-
tate the center sleeve and apply multipurpose
4.8 On the inboard side of the beam, position chassis grease in the grease fitting. Lubricate
a grease seal and installing adapter until clean grease appears at both ends of the
against the center bushing. Make sure the grease seals.
shallow end of the adapter is against the
grease seal (see Fig. 5). Using a hammer, 8. Install the crosstube.
tap the installing adapter until it is flat 9. Install the saddle caps or the equalizer beam (if
against the beam. Using the same proce- removed) on the axle beam hangers. For instruc-
dure, install a grease seal on the outboard tions, refer to Subject 130.
side of the beam.
5.1 Center the new bushing in the beam eye.
Using a standard bushing driver, press the
bushing in until there is equal spacing be-
tween both bushing ends and the sides of
the beam eye.
5.2 Install the new grease seals (with the seal
lips facing out).
NOTE: Check that the new seals are 1/6
inch (4 mm) inside the beam hub surface to
ensure clearance and protection of the seals
when the saddle cap is installed.
6. Apply a thin coating of multipurpose chassis
grease to the inside surface of the center bush-
ing. Slide the bushing center sleeve into the
bushing.

Torque Rod and Bushing Removal and
Installation
10
6 6
5
13
11
7
8 12
2
5 3 2
2
3
3 6 3
5 5 12
4 2 14
9
52
10
25 15 6
5
3
2 25 3
8 4
5
1
6
7
16
1. Left−Hand 7. Transverse Torque Rod 13. Right−Hand

Frame Rail 8. Transverse Torque Rod, Frame Rail
2. Flanged Hexnut Axle Mounting Bracket 14. Crossmember
3. Spacer 9. Forward Rear−Axle 15. Fore and Aft Torque Rod,
4. Transverse Torque Rod 10. Fore and Aft Torque Rod Axle Mounting Bracket
Mounting Bracket 11. Capscrew 16. Rearmost Axle
5. Hardened Washer 12. Fore and Aft Torque Rod
6. Flanged Hexbolt Mounting Bracket
03/23/93 f320172
Fig. 1, Torque Rod Mounting Assembly

are available, see Specifications, 400 before WARNING
beginning these procedures. Special tools are WARNING: When the torque rods are discon-
available from the Owatonna Tool Company, nected from the axle brackets, the axles become
Owatonna, Minnesota, or an affiliated dealer. free to pivot on the equalizer beam end bushings.
to avoid possible injury.

Installation
1. On fore and aft torque rods, remove the flanged Loosen the press plate capscrews and separate
bolts and nuts from the torque rod axle brackets, the halves (see Fig. 2) until the washer clears
and the crossmember mounting brackets. Re- the counterbore, and the torque rod sets on the
move the torque rods. press plate. Tighten the capscrews until the
On transverse torque rods, remove the nuts and press plate halves are closed.
washers from the axle brackets, and remove the 4. Position the tapered stud removal tool (using the
flanged bolts and nuts from the frame-rail mount- end with the larger inside diameter) on the
ing brackets (see Fig. 1). Remove the torque torque rod stud. Apply lubricating oil (see Fig. 3),
rods. then press the stud out of the bushing.
1 03/24/93 f320174
Fig. 3
5. Position the bushing remover/replacer tool (using

the end with the larger outside diameter) on the
1. Clamping Tool bushing. Install the cap, then apply lubricating oil
03/24/93 f320173 to the torque rod bushing.
Fig. 2 6. Press the rubber bushing out of the torque rod
eye.
NOTE: If necessary, use an impact hammer and
tap the top of the axle bracket to disengage the 7. Position the straddle mount end of the torque rod
into the hole of the press plate. Tighten the press
rod stud from the axle bracket.
plate capscrews.
2. Inspect the torque rods. If bent or cracked, re-
8. Position the straddle mount pin remover on the
place. Check the torque rod bushings. If one of
straddle mount pin (see Fig. 4).
the bushings is loose or damaged, replace both
of the bushings. 9. Apply lubricating oil to the straddle mount pin.
Press the straddle mount pin out of the bushing.
3. Position the press plate on the hydraulic press.
Check that the small counterbore of the plate 10. Position the end of the rubber bushing remover/
hole is facing up. replacer tool (using the end that has the larger
outside diameter) on the bushing. Install the cap,
NOTE: Some tapered stud torque rod bushings then apply lubricating oil to the torque rod bush-
have a large non-removable washer on the stud ing.
that will not fit though the press plate hole.

Installation
1. Bushing
2. Clamping Tool
03/24/93 f320175
03/26/93 f320075
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
11. Press the rubber bushing out of the torque rod
eye.
Installation 1
1. Remove all dirt and grease from the torque rod 2

ends. Apply lubricant on the new bushings and in
the torque rod eyes.
2. Position the press plate on the hydraulic press.
Check that the small counterbore of the plate
hole is facing up.
3. Position the new bushing on the tapered stud of
the transverse torque rod. Position the clamp
and tighten it to compress the rubber (see
Fig. 5).
4. Place the torque rod end, the bushing, and the
clamp on the press plate.
5. Place the remover/replacer tool (see Fig. 6) and 1. Remover/Replacer 2. Clamping Tool
cap on top of the clamping tool and press the Tool
bushing in the torque rod end. Check that the 03/26/93 f320356
bushing sleeve protrudes equally on each side of
the torque rod end. Fig. 6
6. On straddle mount end assemblies, align the angle to the centerline of the torque rod shank
clamping tool on the bushing as shown in Fig. 7. (see Fig. 8).
Tighten the clamp to compress the rubber of the
new straddle mount bushing. 7. Place the torque rod end, the bushing, and the
clamp on the press plate.
NOTE: When tightening the clamp, make sure
that the position of the bushing pin is at a right

Installation
8. Using the larger end of the remover/replacer tool, and nut on each bolt, and tighten 190 lbf·ft
position the tool and cap on top of the clamp as- (260 N·m).
sembly.
10.3 Position a torque rod spacer and straddle
9. Press the bushing in the torque rod end. Check mount bracket on each side of the cross-
that the bushing’s outer sleeve protrudes equally member. Insert bolts through the upper
on each side of the torque rod end. and lower holes of the forward mounting
bracket. Install nuts and tighten 95 lbf·ft
(130 N·m).
2 10.4 Position the straddle mount pin of the for-
ward torque rod in the mounting bracket.
Insert bolts through the forward pin, both
bracket assemblies, and the straddle
mount pin of the rear torque rod. Install
the nuts and bearing washers. Tighten the
1 nuts 190 lbf·ft (260 N·m).
11. Install the transverse torque rods (see Fig. 1).
11.1 Check that the tapered stud end and the
tapered stud bracket hole are clean. Lubri-
cate the tapered stud ends with SAE 20
oil.
1. Clamping Tool
2. Pin 11.2 Install the tapered stud in the axle bracket.
03/26/93 f320357 Install a washer and nut. Tighten the nut
175 to 225 lbf·ft (235 to 305 N·m).
Fig. 7
11.3 Align the straddle mount end, the mount-
ing bracket, and the spacer against the
inside frame rail.
11.4 On the inboard side of the frame rail, in-
stall the bolts through the mounting as-
sembly and the frame rail.
11.5 On the outboard side of the frame rail,
install a spacer over the mounting bolt
studs. Install the nuts and tighten them
03/26/93 f320363
190 lbf·ft (260 N·m).
Fig. 8
12. Check the axle pinion angle. For instructions,
refer to the driveline section in this manual.
10. Install the fore and aft torque rods (see Fig. 1).
10.1 Position a torque rod straddle mount pin in
the forward-rear axle bracket. Install the
flanged bolts through the axle bracket and
the straddle mount pin. Install a spacer
and nut on each bolt, and tighten 190 lbf·ft
(260 N·m).
10.2 Position a torque rod straddle mount pin in
the rearmost axle bracket. Install the
flanged bolts through the axle bracket and
the straddle mount pin. Install a spacer

Specifications
Part Tool Usage

Number
1745 Adapter Puller Set Adapter-Type End Support Removal
1761 Torque Rod Set Torque Rod Bushing Removal and Installation
28536 Installing Adapter (5-3/4" o.d.) Bronze Center Bushing and Seal Removal and Installation
44119 Receiving Tube Center and End Bushing Removal and Installation
45052 Adapter Clamp End Bushing Installation
51678 80-Ton Hydraulic Ram All Operations
51695 Jack All Operations
206459 Plate End Bushing Installation
302018 Spacer (3 qty.) Center and End Bushing Removal and Installation
302019 Receiving Adapter End Bushing Removal and Installation
302023 Pulling Screw All Operations
302024 Removing and Installing Adapter Bronze Center Bushing Removal and Installation
302026 Installing Adapter Rubber Center Bushing Removal and Installation
302027 Removing Adapter Rubber Center Bushing Removal and Installation
302028 Hexnut All Operations
302029 Speed Nut All Operations
302030 Removing Adapter End Bushing Removal and Installation
Table 1, Special Tools (Owatonna Tool Company)
Tool Number Dimensions Usage

1 4-1/4 inch o.d. by 4 inch Beam End Bushing Removal
2 4-1/2 inch i.d. by 4 inch Beam End Bushing Installation
3 4-5/8 inch o.d. by 7 inch Beam Center Bushing Removal and Installation
Table 2, Shop-Made Adapters

Vertical Drive Pin Bushing Retainer Cap Locknut 5/8-18 100-125 (135-170)
Vertical Drive Pin Bushing Retainer Cap Stud 5/8-11 55-65 (75-90)
Vertical Drive Pin Locknut 1-1/2-12 175-225 (235-305)
Torque Rod Straddle Mount Nut 5/8-11 190 (260)
Torque Rod Stud Locknut 1-1/4-12 175-225 (235-305)
Saddle Cap Stud 7/8-14 55-65 (75-90)
Saddle Cap Locknut 7/8-14 225-275 (305-375)
Adapter-Type Beam End Locknut 3/4-16 210-240 (285-325)
Tube-Type Beam End Nut 2-1/2-12 375-425 (510-575)

Specifications

Fore-and-Aft Torque Rod Mount Nut — 95 (130)

Hendrickson RT, RTE, and RTEA Series Suspensions 32.08
General Description
General Description
The Hendrickson RT series suspension ( see Fig. 1)
uses leaf springs to lessen road shocks. The forward
and rear ends of the spring assembly ride in hang-
ers. At the forward end, the springs are attached to
the hanger with pins. At the rear end, the springs
have no rigid attachment to the hangers, and are
free to move forward and backward to compensate
for spring deflection.
The RTE series suspension ( see Fig. 2) is basically
the same as the RT suspension. However, the RTE
series uses a different spring assembly and a third
spring hanger. This design provides a two-stage
spring rate, depending on vehicle load condition.
When the vehicle is unloaded, a gap exists between
the top spring leaf and the no. 2 spring hanger. The
weight of the vehicle is then carried through the no. 3
spring hanger, and most of the spring deflection
through the top extended leaves ( see Fig. 3). When
the vehicle is loaded, the top extended leaf contacts 03/29/93 f320067
the no. 2 spring hanger and the spring weight is car- Fig. 2, RTE Series Suspension
ried through the nos. 1 and 2 spring hangers (
see Fig. 4).
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to apply Alumilastic® com-
num and steel parts contact each other, could
age to the components or parts.
NO. 1 SPRING NO. 2 SPRING NO. 3 SPRING

HANGER HANGER HANGER
Gap
03/30/93 f320358
03/29/93 f320066
Fig. 3, Unloaded RTE Spring
Fig. 1, RT Series Suspension
The axles are attached to beam hangers at the ends
The RTEA series suspension is similar to the RTE of the equalizer beams, allowing an articulating ac-
suspension, but the RTEA series uses aluminum tion between the axles to lessen road shock. Torque
equalizer beams instead of steel.

32.08 Hendrickson RT, RTE, and RTEA Series Suspensions
General Description
NO. 1 SPRING NO. 2 SPRING NO. 3 SPRING

HANGER HANGER HANGER
In Contact
03/30/93 f320359
Fig. 4, Loaded RTE Spring

rods, mounted between the axles and frame rails,
stabilize axle and vehicle movement caused by ac-
celerating and braking.
All suspension fasteners require periodic tightening.
For suspension inspecting, lubricating, and fastener
torque checking instructions, refer to the suspension
WARNING
WARNING: Failure to periodically torque the sus-
pension fasteners could result in damage to the
frame hangers or separation of components. This
could cause a loss of vehicle control, resulting in
injury or property damage.

Removal (See Fig. 1 ) Installation ( (See Fig. 1)
1. Chock the front tires. 1. Roll the axles under the vehicle frame. Align the
center bushing of each equalizer beam with the
2. Drain the vehicle air system.
center of the saddle legs.
3. Disconnect all air lines leading to the rear axles,
2. Raise the vehicle frame off the safety stands,
marking the lines for later assembly
then remove the safety stands.
reference. Plug or cap all lines and fittings to 3. Lower the frame, centering the saddles on the
prevent dirt from entering the system. beam center bushings.
4. Disconnect the driveline rear universal joint from 4. Lubricate the saddle cap studs with SAE 20 oil.
the forward-rear axle. Then, remove the interaxle
Install the saddle caps, washers and new self-
driveline. For instructions, refer to the driveline locking nuts. Do not tighten.
section in this manual.
5. Install the torque rods. For instructions, re-
5. Manually release the spring brake chambers. For fer to Subject 170.
instructions, refer to the brake section in this
manual. 6. Tighten the saddle cap locknuts 225 to 275 lbf·ft
(305 to 373 N·m).
WARNING NOTE: Maintain an even gap between the
saddle cap and the saddle when tightening the
WARNING: When the torque rods are discon-
self-locking nuts ( see Fig. 2).
nected from the axle brackets, the axles become
free to pivot on the equalizer beam end bushings. 7. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
Keep clear of the beam hangers and beam ends and axle, and lower the vehicle.
to avoid possible injury.
8. Manually reset the spring brake chambers. For
6. Remove the torque rods. For instructions, re- instructions, refer to the brake section in this
fer to Subject 170. manual.
7. Raise the rear of the vehicle so that all weight is 9. Connect the driveline rear universal joint to the
removed from the suspension. Then, block the forward-rear axle. Connect the interaxle driveline.
axles and the frame with safety stands. Make For instructions, refer to the driveline section in
sure the stands will securely support the weight this manual.
of the axles and the frame.
10. Uncap all air lines and fittings, then connect the
NOTE: Do not raise the vehicle to the point lines leading to the rear axles.
where the weight of the suspension and axles 11. Check the axle pinion angle. For instructions,
hangs from the vehicle. refer to the driveline section in this manual.
caps.
NOTE: If the saddle cap studs are damaged,
replace them.
9. Raise the rear of the vehicle frame until there is
enough clearance to roll the axles out from under
the vehicle. Install safety stands under the frame,
then roll the axles—with the equalizer beams
attached—out from under the vehicle.

1. Forward (no. 1) 1
Spring Hanger
2. Locknut
3. Washer 2 8
4. Spring Pin
5. Grease Fitting
3 11
6. Spring Eye Bushing 9 13
7. Lock Bolt 4 3 12
7
8. Top Pad Bolt 5
9. Top Pad Washer 17
10. Top Pad Locknut 6 14
11. Top Pad 18
12. Setscrew Washer 15
13. Setscrew
and Locknut
16 19
14. Spring Assembly 19
15. Spring Center 20
Bolt and Nut 24
16. Spring Alignment
Clip 22
17. Rear (no. 2)
Spring Hanger 36
18. Rebound Spacer Bolt 25
27 23 37
19. Spacer Bolt Washer 21
20. Spacer Bolt Locknut
21. Rebound Spacer 26 38
22. RTE Rear (no. 3)
Spring Hanger
23. RTE Spring 31
Extension 32 39
24. Saddle Assembly 34 33 36
25. Equalizer Beam 35 37 43
Assembly 42
26. Rubber Center 40 44
9 41
Bushing 10 39
27. Crosstube
28. Bronze Center 30 37
Bushing 29
40
41
28
45
29 34. Saddle Cap Washer

30 35. Saddle Cap Nut 41. Adapter Bolt Nut
29. Bushing Grease Seal 36. Adapter Bolt 42. Adapter−Type End
30. Thrustwashers and Washer Support Assembly
31. Grease Fitting 37. Adapter 43. Split−Ring
(Bronze Bushing) 38. End Bushing 44. Adapter Plug
32. Saddle Cap 39. Intermediate Tube 45. Split−Ring Adapter
33. Saddle Cap Stud 40. Adapter Bolt Washer Assembly
07/16/93 f320141
Fig. 1, RT and RTE Series (exploded view)

SADDLE
Maintain an even gap.
SADDLE
03/30/93
CAP f320181
Fig. 2

Spring and Saddle Removal and Installation
Removal NOTE: The main leaf has a cup that is forged

upward at the center bolt. This cup serves as a
1. Remove the suspension. For instructions, re- pilot when installing the top pad, and ensures
fer to Subject 100. correct alignment of the spring assembly.
2. Support the spring and saddle assembly with a 3. Lubricate the threads on the top pad bolts with
floor jack. SAE 20 oil, then install the washers and bolts
through the top pad and saddle. Install new nuts
3. Remove the locknuts from the spring pin lock- and washers finger-tight. Do not tighten at this
bolts; then remove the lockbolts and washers time.
from the number one spring hanger.
4. Lubricate the threads on the spring setscrews
4. Using a suitable drift, drive the spring pin through with SAE 20 oil. Hand-tighten the spring set-
the no. 1 spring hanger and out the inboard side screws against the leaf springs. Tighten the set-
of the spring hanger (see Fig. 1). screws 100 to 150 lbf·ft (135 to 203 N·m), then
tighten the setscrew locknuts until the lock-
washer is locked.
5. Tighten the top pad nuts 275 to 400 lbf·ft (373 to
542 N·m). Use the tightening sequence shown in
Fig. 2.
6. Position the spring and saddle assembly into the
no. 1 and no. 2 spring hangers.
TOP PAD
05/30/2006
Fig. 1
TOP PAD BOLT
1 3
5. Remove the locknut and lockwasher from the
rebound spacer bolt in the no. 2 spring hanger.
Remove the rebound spacer bolt and the spacer.
HARDENED
WARNING 4 2 WASHER
WARNING: The leaf spring assembly is heavy.

Use care when handling it to prevent injury.
6. Lower the spring and saddle assembly from the
spring hangers. SPRING
03/30/93 f320180
7. Loosen the spring alignment setscrews on the
top pad. Remove the top pad nuts, washers, and Fig. 2, Top Pad Bolt Tightening Sequence
bolts.
7. Coat the spring pin and the inside diameter of
8. Remove the top pad from the spring assembly, the spring eye bushing with multipurpose chassis
then remove the spring from the saddle. grease.
8. Align the spring pin with the spring eye bushing
Installation in the forward spring hanger.
9. From the outboard side of the spring hanger, tap
1. Seat the leaf spring assembly on the saddle.
the spring pin into the bushing with a soft ham-
2. Position the top pad on the spring assembly. mer. If necessary, adjust the spring to assist
Check that the top pad is properly seated. spring pin entry.

Spring and Saddle Removal and Installation
10. Place washers on the spring pin lockbolts, and

insert the lockbolts through the spring hanger. If
necessary, use a screwdriver to turn the spring
pin until the lockbolts can slide past it.
11. Lubricate the lockbolt threads with SAE 20 oil.
Install the lockwashers and locknuts. Tighten the
locknuts 45 to 63 lbf·ft (61 to 85 N·m).
12. Position the rebound spacer in the no. 2 spring
hanger leg, then install the rebound spacer bolt,
lockwasher, and locknut. Tighten the locknut 38
to 45 lbf·ft (51 to 61 N·m).
13. Install the grease fittings in both spring eye pins.
Apply multipurpose chassis grease to the grease
fittings until grease appears on both sides of the
spring eye bushings.
14. Install the suspension. Refer to Subject 100 for
instructions.

Spring Leaf, Spring Pin, and Spring Eye Bushing
Replacement
Replacement center bolt nut and tighten to the value in the

table under Specifications, 400.
1. Remove the spring and saddle assembly. For 8. Install the spring and saddle assembly. For in-
instructions, refer to Subject 110. structions, refer to Subject 110.
2. Using a C-clamp to hold the spring leaves to-
gether, remove the center bolt and nut, and the
30° 30°
spring alignment clips. Remove the C-clamp and
separate the leaves.
SPLIT
WARNING MAIN SPRING

PLATE
SPRING EYE
BUSHING
manufacturer.
3. Using a wire brush and solvent, clean all grease,
dirt, and rust from the spring leaves. Inspect the
spring leaves for cracks, gouges, wear, or abnor-
mal bends. The no. 1 main and no. 2 wrapper 03/30/93 f320178
spring leaves (the top two spring leaves) may Fig. 1

each be replaced; if equipped with the RTE se-
ries suspension, the nos. 1, 2, and 3 spring
leaves (the top three spring leaves) may each be
replaced. If a spring leaf is damaged below these
numbers in a pack, replace the spring assembly.
Replace both spring assemblies to ensure even
spring deflection.
4. Inspect the spring pin and spring eye bushing for
wear or damage. If the pin diameter is less than
1.367 inch, replace it. If the inside diameter of
the spring eye bushing is more than 1.395 inch,
replace it.
NOTE: If necessary, press out the bushing with
a hydraulic press. Install the new bushing with
the split of the bushing positioned at the top (30
degrees) of the spring eye ( see Fig. 1).
5. Position the spring leaves in order, then insert a
drift through the center bolt hole to align the
leaves.
6. Compress the leaves with a C-clamp, then install
the spring alignment clips on the spring leaves.
Install the spring alignment clip nuts and bolts.
Tighten the nuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
7. Remove the drift punch. At the bottom of the
spring, insert a new center bolt. Install a new

Removal
1 2 3 4
are available, see the table under Specifica-
tions, 400 before beginning these procedures.
Special tools are available from the Owatonna
Tool Company, Owatonna, Minnesota, or an af-
filiated dealer. Although these tools are recom-
mended, shop-made adapters can be used if a
vertical hydraulic press with a 50-ton capacity is
available. Dimensions for the shop-made adapt-
ers are provided in the table under Specifica- 5
6 7
tions, 400.
1. Axle Beam Hanger 5. End Tube Nut
1. Chock the front tires. 2. Bushing Inner Sleeve 6. Equalizer Beam
2. Remove the saddle cap nuts and washers, then 3. Rubber End Bushing 7. Bushing Outer Sleeve
remove the saddle cap. Support the equalizer 4. Beam End Tube
beam with safety stands. 03/26/92 f320337
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle until the saddle Fig. 1, Equalizer Beam Tube-Type End Support
studs clear the equalizer beam. Block the axles
and frame with safety stands.
4. Remove the wheels and tires. For instructions, 1
manual.
10
5. Remove the brake shoes, brake spider, and
brake backing plate (dust shield). Refer to the
2
brake section in this manual for instructions.
9
6. Apply a penetrating oil to all beam end connec-
tions.
7. On a tube-type end support ( see Fig. 1), re- 3 8
move the tube nuts from both sides of the beam
end tube.
On an adapter-type end support ( see Fig. 2),
remove the nut, washers, and the adapter bolt. 4 5
6 7 NOTE: New bushing
will have a small gap.
8. If using Owatonna tools, remove the tube-type
end supports by positioning the receiving tube 1. Axle Beam Hanger 6. Equalizer Beam
over the outboard end of the beam end tube. 2. Adapter 7. Bushing Inner Sleeve
Position the hydraulic ram, pulling screw, speed 3. Adapter Bolt Nut 8. Adapter Bolt
nut, and the removing adapter ( see Fig. 3). 4. Rubber End Bushing 9. Washer (both ends)
5. Bushing Outer Sleeve 10. Intermediate Tube
Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the ram,
07/26/93 f320338
and apply pressure to remove the beam end
tube. Fig. 2, Equalizer Beam Adapter-Type End Support
9. If using Owatonna tools, remove the adapter-
bolt hole (outboard side) to a depth of
type end supports as follows:
about 1-1/2 inches (38 mm).
9.1 Using either a 7/8- or 15/16-inch hand-tap
( see Fig. 4), tap the adapter

BEAM EQUALIZER
RAM HANGER BEAM
RECEIVING
PULLING TUBE
SCREW
TUBE−TYPE REMOVING
SPEED NUT HANGER PIN ADAPTER
03/18/93 f320160
Fig. 3, Tube-Type Beam End Removal

cup and secure it with the hexnut.
See Fig. 7.
1 RECEIVING CUP END BEAM

HANGER
HEXNUT
1. Hand−Tap
03/18/93 f320161
REMOVING
Fig. 4 SCREW
END BEAM
NOTE: Determine the correct size of hand- ADAPTER
tap by using the plug gauge. If the gauge PLUG
passes through the adapter bolt hole, use a 03/30/93 f320162
15/16-inch tap; if it doesn’t, use a 7/8-inch Fig. 5
tap.
9.4 Hold the removing screw and turn the nut
9.2 On the outboard side of the axle, thread with a 1-1/2 inch open-or box-end
the removing screw into the tapped hole. wrench. Turn the nut until the adapter
Position the receiving cup and hexnut on plug bottoms on the inside of the receiv-
the removing screw ( see Fig. 5). Turn ing cup.
the hexnut until the adapter plug breaks
loose and bottoms on the inside of the 10. If not using Owatonna tools, remove the end
receiving cup. If needed, add spacers to supports as follows:
complete removal of the adapter plug.
10.1 For tube-type end supports, install a
See Fig. 6.
spacer bushing between one end-tube
9.3 On the inboard side of the axle, position nut and the beam hanger. Tighten the nut
the receiving cup over the adapter plug. to pull the end tube out of the beam end
On the outboard side of the axle, insert bushing. If the tube doesn’t come loose,
the removing screw through the receiving use a hacksaw and saw the tube along

SPACERS END BEAM END BEAM

HANGER RECEIVING
HANGER CUP
RECEIVING CUP
REMOVING
SCREW
REMOVING
SCREW
HEXNUT HEXNUT
END BEAM
END BEAM ADAPTER PLUG
ADAPTER
PLUG
03/30/93 f320164 03/30/93 f320165
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
the inside surface of both axle beam
hanger legs.
WARNING
the equalizer beams from the beam hangers. The ADAPTER
equalizer beams are heat-treated, and using a
cutting torch could weaken them. This could re-
sult in a loss of vehicle control and possible per-
sonal injury.
CHISEL
10.2 For adapter-type end supports, a relief is RELIEFS
located on each side of the adapter (
see Fig. 8). Turn the adapter with an air
chisel, then insert a chisel into the relief
on the inboard adapter. Drive the chisel in 03/30/93 f320166
and wedge the adapter out of the beam Fig. 8

hanger. Do the same on the outboard
adapter.
Installation
If a split-ring adapter is used, drive a
chisel between the two halves to remove 1. On adapter-type end supports, apply Texaco
the end support plug. Drive the plug into Compound L, or an equivalent rust preventive
the equalizer beam end bushing until it is lubricant, to the axle beam hanger eyes, beam
clear of the beam hanger. After the equal- end bushing inner sleeve, end support adapters,
izer beam is removed, drive the adapter outside surface of the bushing intermediate
plug out of the bushing. tubes, and the ends of the crosstube.
11. Remove the ends of the equalizer beams from Install the crosstube and thrustwashers in both
the axle beam hangers. equalizer beam center bushings.
12. Lower the equalizer beams and the crosstube to On tube-type end supports, apply Texaco Com-
the ground. Remove the thrustwashers and pull pound L, or an equivalent rust preventive lubri-
the beams from the crosstube. cant, to the axle beam hanger eyes, beam end

bushing inner sleeve, outer surface of the beam end support assembly will rub, and excessive
end tubes, beam center bushing inner sleeves, wear to the beam hanger legs and end bushing
and the ends of the crosstube. inner sleeves will occur. This could result in
separation of suspension components, loss of
Using SAE 20 oil, lubricate the threads of the vehicle control, and possible injury or property
beam end tube, then install the crosstube and damage.
thrustwashers in both equalizer beam center
bushings. 7. Install the brake backing plate (dust shield),
brake spider, and brake shoes. Refer to the
2. Position the equalizer beam assembly under the brake section in this manual for instructions.
axles, then raise the assembly and place the for-
ward ends of each beam in the forward-rear axle 8. Install the wheels and tires. For instructions, refer
beam hangers. Align the beam end bushings to the wheels and tires section in this manual.
with the beam hangers.
On adapter-type end supports, install the inter- AXLE BRACKET
On tube-type end supports, install the beam end
end bushings. Hand-tighten both nuts on the ADAPTER
beam end tubes. FLAT SIDE
3. Place the rear ends of each beam in the rear-

most axle beam hangers. Align the beam end EQUALIZER
bushings with the beam hangers. BEAM
On adapter-type end supports, install the inter-
beam in the axle beam hangers. Do not tighten. 03/30/93 f320354
On tube-type end supports, install the beam end Fig. 9

end bushings. Hand-tighten both nuts on the
beam end tubes.
(305 to 373 N·m).
5. Tighten the adapter bolt nuts 210 to 240 lbf·ft
(285 to 325 N·m). Make sure the flat section of
the adapter flange is in the vertical position.
See Fig. 9.
6. Tighten the end tube nuts 375 to 425 lbf·ft (508
to 576 N·m).
WARNING
WARNING: The adapter bolt nuts and end tube
nuts must be tightened to the values in the previ-
ous two steps. If not, the metal surfaces of the

Installation
Removal
WARNING
the beam end bushing. Equalizer beams are heat-
treated by the manufacturer. Using a cutting
torch could weaken the beams, and may result in
a loss of vehicle control. This could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
1. Remove the equalizer beam ends from the axle 03/23/93 f320167
beam hangers. For instructions, refer to Sub-
ject 130. Fig. 1
2. Cut off the protruding rubber from one side of
each beam end bushing ( see Fig. 1).
3. If using Owatonna tools, remove the beam end
bushings as follows ( see Fig. 2): REMOVING
3.1 Install the receiving adapter on the receiv- ADAPTER
ing tube.
3.2 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the HEXNUT
pulling screw through the end bushing. PULLING
SCREW
3.3 Install the end bushing removing adapter
on the inboard side of the beam end SPEED RECEIVING
bushing. Check that the cone-shaped sur- NUT ADAPTER
face of the adapter is facing the equalizer
beam. RECEIVING
TUBE
IMPORTANT: Align the receiving tube so
tube when force is exerted against the
03/23/93 f320330
beam. Align the removing adapter so that
force is exerted only on the bushing to en- Fig. 2
stop and check the alignment of the receiv-
3.4 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw. ing tool and removal adapter. If both tools
Full thread engagement is needed. are aligned correctly, attach a sledging
3.5 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the adapter on the speed nut end of the pulling
ram and apply force until the ram cylinder screw. Maintaining hydraulic pressure, strike
reaches its stroke limit. the sledging adapter with a heavy hammer.
3.6 Release the pressure, add spacers, and A loud noise followed by a sudden drop of
tighten the speed nut. About three adjust- the pressure gauge reading indicate the
ments are needed to completely remove bushing has broken loose.
the end bushing. 4. If using shop-made adapters, remove the beam
NOTE: If the pressure gauge on the hydrau- end bushings as follows:
lic pumping unit reads 10,000 psi (68 950 4.1 Remove the equalizer beams. For instruc-
kPa) and the bushing has not broken loose, tions, refer to Subject 130.

Installation
4.2 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton

4.3 Center the shop-made adapter (refer to HEXNUT
the table under Specifications, 400) on
ADAPTER
the trimmed end of the equalizer beam CLAMP
bushing. Press the end bushing from the
beam eye.
PLATE
Installation
SPEED RECEIVING
rosion from the beam eyes. Inspect the equalizer NUT
beam eyes for cracks, gouges, or damage. Re- ADAPTER
place the equalizer beam if any of these condi- PULLING
tions exist. SCREW
2. Using emery cloth, clean the outer sleeves of the

new equalizer beam end bushings. Apply a thin
coating of Texaco Compound L, or an equivalent 03/23/93 f320331
rust preventive lubricant, to the surface of the
outer sleeves on the new bushing. Fig. 3
3. If using Owatonna tools, install the beam end ments are needed to completely install
bushings as follows ( see Fig. 3): the end bushing.
3.1 Fit the adapter clamp over the exposed NOTE: The pressure gauge on the pumping
rubber on the new bushing. Tighten the unit should read 4000 to 5500 psi (27 580 to
clamp nuts until the clamp is flush against 37 920 kPa) during installation. If the read-
the bushing outer sleeve. ing reaches the operating limit of 10,000 psi
3.2 Install the receiving adapter on the receiv- (68 950 kPa) and the bushing is not going
ing tube. into the beam end, check the alignment of
the bushing, tooling, and hydraulic equip-
3.3 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the ment. Installation is complete when the
pulling screw through the end bushing.
adapter clamp is flush against the beam.
3.4 Center the adapter clamp and bushing on
3.9 Install the equalizer beam ends on the
the inboard side of the beam end.
axle beam hangers. For instructions, re-
3.5 Install the adapter plate and secure it with fer to Subject 130.
the hexnut.
4. If using shop-made adapters, install the beam
IMPORTANT: Check that the new bushing end bushings as follows ( see Fig. 4):
and the installation tools are centered so 4.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton
that the bushing will clear the receiving tube hydraulic press.
when force is exerted against the beam.
4.2 Using a sheave puller, compress the ex-
3.6 Tighten the speed nut and remove any posed rubber of the bushing until the
slack in the assembly. puller jaws are flush against the end of
3.7 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the the bushing outer sleeve.
ram and apply force until the ram cylinder 4.3 Position the shop-made adapter (refer to
reaches its stroke limit. the table under Specifications, 400)

Installation
against the jaws of the sheave puller.

Press the new bushing into the beam
eye.
4.4 Install the equalizer beam. For instruc-
PRESS
ADAPTER
SHEAVE PULLER
EQUALIZER
BEAM
BUSHING
03/13/93 f320068
Fig. 4

Removal 9.2 Center the shop-made tool, and press the

bar pin/bushing assembly from the beam
end eye.
NOTE: From July 1995, most Hendrickson sus-
pensions are manufactured with a bar pin-type
bushing assembly that connects the equalizer Installation
beam to the axle. The bar pin/bushing assembly
can be serviced without removing the brake as- IMPORTANT: Do not reuse the old fasteners.
sembly. Replace them during installation.
WARNING rosion from the beam eyes. Inspect the equalizer
Do not use a cutting torch to remove the equal- place the equalizer beam if any of these condi-
izer beams from the beam hangers. The equalizer tions exist.
beams are heat-treated, and using a cutting torch
could weaken them. This could result in a loss of 2. The outer metals of some Hendrickson rubber
vehicle control, possible personal injury, or prop- bushings are covered with a phosphate coating
erty damage. that acts as a rust preventive. This coating must
be removed with emery cloth before installation.
1. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake. Also apply a coating of grease to the cleaned
2. Chock the front tires. outer metals of the bar pin/bushing assembly,
and to the beam end eyes to help when pressing
3. Support the equalizer beams with jack stands. the bar pin/bushing assembly into the beam end
4. Remove the four bolts attaching the equalizer eye.
beam to the saddle. 3. If using Owatonna tools, install the bar pin/
5. Apply a penetrating oil to the threads of the two bushing assemblies using Owatonna recommen-
1-inch (25 mm) bolts and locknuts attaching each dations.
bar pin/bushing assembly to the axle brackets. 4. If using shop-made tools, create the needed as-
6. Remove the bolts. If the fasteners are rusted in sembly tool from a 5-inch (127 mm) length of
place, an air hammer chisel may be used to 5-inch (127 mm) O.D. steel tubing with 1/2-inch
loosen the bolts attaching the bar pin/bushing (13 mm) wall thickness. See Fig. 1. The assem-
assembly to the axle brackets. bly tool must be split in half, then clamped or
bolted together to compress the rubber to allow
NOTE: The upper torque rods may have to be contact with the bushing outer metal.
disconnected at the top of the axle, and the axle
rotated to a more vertical position to assist in 4.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton
hydraulic press with the beam end bore
the removal of the equalizer beam from the axle squarely supported on the bed for safety
bracket. and to avoid bending the equalizer beam.
7. Remove the equalizer beam from the axle beam 4.2 Before pressing the bar pin/bushing as-
hangers. sembly, align the holes in the end of the
8. The bar pin/bushing assemblies can be removed bar pin/bushing assembly with the center
from the equalizer beams with Owatonna tools. line of the equalizer beam. This will help
To do so, follow Owatonna recommendations. assembly into the axle brackets. Care
should be taken during the assembly pro-
9. If shop-made tools are used, remove the bar pin/ cess to ensure the orientation of the bar
bushing assemblies from the beam ends as fol- pin/bushing assembly in the beam eye.
lows:
NOTE: After installation, verify that the bar
9.1 Position the equalizer beam on a 50-ton pin/bushing assembly is centered in the end
of the beam.

A
3 2 B
C
6 D
2 BB
I
E
8 AA
F
1 G
7
H
04/23/96 f320522
1. Bolt, 1" (25 mm) 4. Locknut 7. Equalizer Beam

2. Washer, 1" (25 mm) o.d. 5. Alignment Pins 8. Alignment Pin Hole
3. Assembly Tool 6. Bar Pin/Bushing Assembly
A. 5.0" (127 mm) D. 0.50" (13 mm) G. 2.62" (67 mm)
B. 4.43" (113 mm) E. 1.07" (27 mm) H. 5.0" (127 mm)
C. 4.12" (105 mm) F. 1.54" (39 mm) I. 1.0" (25 mm)
AA.Recess flat counter bore, 2.0" (51 mm) x 0.25" (6 mm) deep.
BB.Tool wall, 0.50" (13 mm), top view.
NOTE: The material
IMPORTANT: The assembly
used to tool
make must
the be
toolsplit
is: 0.50"
in half(13
as mm)
shown.
wall x 5.0" (127 mm) o.d. x 5.0" (127 mm) long steel tubing.
Fig. 1, Assembly Tool (exploded view, with manufacturing information)

5. Install the equalizer beam on the axle hangers. Alignment
6. Attach the bar pin/bushing assembly to the axle
brackets. Tighten the 1-inch (25 mm) bolts 450 to For a detailed adjustment procedure, refer to Hen-
600 lbf·ft (610 to 813 N·m). drickson’s service literature, Bar Pin Alignment In-
structions, Technical Publication No. 17730-213.
NOTE: Bar pin/bushing assembly kits are avail-
able with or without alignment shims. The instruction publication may be obtained from:
7. Install the four bolts attaching the equalizer beam Hendrickson Truck Suspension Systems
to the saddle. Tighten 225 to 275 lbf·ft (305 to 1-630-910-2800
375 N·m). 1-800-973-0360
(fax) 1-630-378-4849
8. Remove the jack stands. 800 South Frontage Road
9. Remove the chocks from the tires. Woodridge, IL 60517-4904

and Installation
Removal IMPORTANT: Align the receiving tube so

NOTE: If using Owatonna tools, removal of the tube when force is exerted against the
equalizer beam is not required for removal or beam. Align the removing adapter so that
installation of the rubber center bushing. force is exerted only on the bushing to en-
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle so that all weight is Full thread engagement is needed.
stands will securely support the weight of the
where the weight of the suspension and axles
hangs from the vehicle.
caps.
4. Raise the rear of the truck frame until the saddle
5. Using a 2-1/2 inch diameter hole saw (
see Fig. 1), cut out the end plug from the center
bushing on each side of the suspension, and re- 12/28/94 f320168
move the crosstube.
Fig. 1
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not use a cutting torch to burn out
the end plugs. The equalizer beams are heat-
treated, and the use of a cutting torch could REMOVING
weaken the beam. ADAPTER
6. On the inboard side of the equalizer beam, in-
spect the exposed edge of the bushing’s outer
sleeve. PULLING HEXNUT
SCREW
7. Chisel or grind off any portion of the outer sleeve
that has flared over the surface of the equalizer
beam. SPEED
NUT
8. If using Owatonna tools, remove the rubber cen- RECEIVING
ter bushings as follows ( see Fig. 2): TUBE
8.1 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the

pulling screw through the center bushing.
03/23/93 f320332
8.2 Install the center bushing removing
adapter on the inboard side of the beam Fig. 2
eye.

and Installation
8.4 Install spacers between the ram cylinder 3. If using Owatonna tools, install the rubber center
and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut bushings as follows ( see Fig. 3):
and remove any slack in the assembly.
8.5 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the pulling screw through the beam eye.
3.2 Position the bushing on the inboard side
of the beam eye.
tighten the speed nut. About three adjust- IMPORTANT: Center the new bushing to
ments are needed to completely remove ensure a clean pull through the beam eye.
the bushing. 3.3 Fit the installing adapter over the inner
NOTE: If the pressure gauge on the hydrau- sleeve and against the outer sleeve of the
lic pumping unit reads 10,000 psi (68 950 bushing.
kPa) and the bushing has not broken loose, 3.4 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw.
stop and check the alignment of the receiv- Full thread engagement is needed.
ing tool and removal adapter. If both tools 3.5 Install spacers between the ram cylinder
are aligned correctly, attach a sledging and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut
adapter on the speed nut end of the pulling and remove any slack in the assembly.
the sledging adapter with a heavy hammer. 3.6 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the
A loud noise followed by a sudden drop of reaches its stroke limit.
the pressure gauge reading indicate that the
bushing has broken loose. 3.7 Release the pressure, add spacers, and
tighten the speed nut. About
9. If using shop-made adapters, remove the equal-
izer beams. For instructions, refer to Sub- three adjustments are needed to com-
ject 130. pletely install the center bushing.
9.2 Center the shop-made adapter (refer to HEXNUT
the table under Specifications, 400) on INSTALLING
the trimmed end of the equalizer beam ADAPTER
bushing. Press the center bushing from
the beam eye.
BUSHING
Installation
SPEED
1. Using emery cloth, remove all scale, rust, or cor- NUT PULLING
rosion from the beam eyes. Inspect the equalizer SCREW
place the equalizer beam if any of these condi-
tions exist.
new equalizer beam center bushings. Apply a 03/23/93 f320333
equivalent rust preventive lubricant, to the sur- Fig. 3
face of the outer sleeves on the new bushing.

and Installation

ing reaches the operating limit of 10,000 psi
(68 950 kPa) and the bushing is not going
into the beam, check the alignment of the
bushing, tooling, and hydraulic equipment.
adapter is flush against the beam.
3.8 Position the crosstube in the center bush-
ings.
WARNING
WARNING: Wear protective welding masks and
heat, sparks, and flying debris from the welding
process.
3.9 Arc weld new end plugs to the tire side of
each center bushing inner sleeve.
NOTE: Heat from welding the end plugs will
not affect the beam or the new rubber bush-
ings because of their distance from the point
of welding.
(305 to 373 N·m).
5.1 Using standard center bushings with the
end plugs welded in place, position the
shop-made adapter (refer to the table un-
der Specifications, 400") over the inner
sleeve of the bushing. Check that the
adapter bottoms against the bushing
outer sleeve, then press the new bushing
into the beam eye.
5.2 Install the equalizer beams. For instruc-

Equalizer Beam Bronze Center Bushing Removal and
Installation
Removal 6.3 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw.

NOTE: If using Owatonna tools, you can re-
move or install the bronze center bushing with-
out removing the equalizer beam.
1. Chock the front tires. REMOVING/
INSTALLING
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle so that all weight is ADAPTER
stands will securely support the weight of the HEXNUT
where the weight of the suspension and axles SPEED PULLING
hangs from the vehicle. NUT SCREW
3. Remove the saddle cap nut and washers from

each side of the suspension, and remove the
saddle caps.
4. Raise the rear of the truck frame until the saddle 03/23/93 f320334
Fig. 1
5. Using a 2-1/2 inch diameter hole saw, cut out the 6.4 Install spacers between the ram cylinder
retaining disk from the center bushing on each and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut
side of the suspension, and remove the cross- and remove any slack in the assembly.
tube. 6.5 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the
CAUTION reaches its stroke limit.
CAUTION: Do not use a cutting torch to burn out 6.6 Release the pressure, add spacers, and
the retaining disk. The equalizer beams are heat tighten the speed nut. About three adjust-
treated, and the use of a cutting torch could ments are needed to completely remove
weaken the beam. the center bushing.
6. If using Owatonna tools, remove the bronze cen- NOTE: If the pressure gauge on the hydrau-
ter bushing as follows ( see Fig. 1): lic pumping unit reads 10,000 psi (68 950
kPa) and the bushing has not broken loose,
6.1 Position the hydraulic ram and slide the stop and check the alignment of the receiv-
pulling screw through the center bushing. ing tool and removal adapter. If both tools
6.2 Install the center bushing removing are aligned correctly, attach a sledging
adapter on the inboard side of the beam adapter on the speed nut end of the pulling
eye. screw. Maintaining hydraulic pressure, strike
IMPORTANT: Align the receiving tube so the sledging adapter with a heavy hammer.
that the bushing will clear the edges of the A loud noise followed by a sudden drop of
tube when force is exerted against the the pressure gauge reading indicate that the
beam. Align the removing adapter so that bushing has broken loose.
force is exerted only on the bushing to en- 7. If using shop-made adapters, remove the equal-
sure a clean pull through the beam. izer beams. For instructions, refer to Sub-
ject 130.

Installation

vertical hydraulic press. REMOVING/
INSTALLING
7.2 Center the shop-made adapter (refer to ADAPTER
the table under Specifications, 400) on INSTALLING
the center bushing. Press the bushing ADAPTER
from the beam eye. BUSHING
HEXNUT
Installation
rosion from the beam eyes. Inspect the equalizer SPEED
NUT PULLING
place the equalizer beam if any of these condi- SCREW
tions exist.
03/23/93 f320335
equivalent rust preventive lubricant, to the sur-
face of the outer sleeves on the new bushing, Fig. 2
and to the inside surface of the beam eye.
3. Position the bushing on the equalizer beam eye. BUSHING LUBE
GROOVES
4. If using Owatonna tools, install the bronze center SEAL
GREASE FITTING
bushings as follows ( see Fig. 2):
pulling screw through the beam eye.
4.2 Position the bushing on the inboard side
of the beam eye. Check that the grooves
of the bushing are aligned with the verti-
cal centerline of the equalizer beam (
see Fig. 3).
4.3 Fit the installing adapter and the CENTER BUSHING
removing/installing adapter against the ASSEMBLY
outer sleeve of the bushing. Make sure 01/03/95
Vertical Centerline of Beam f320074
the deep ridge on the installing adapter is
positioned against the bronze bushing ( Fig. 3
see Fig. 4).
ments are needed to completely install
4.4 Install the hexnut on the pulling screw. the center bushing.
4.5 Install spacers between the ram cylinder unit should read 4000 to 5500 psi (27 580 to
and the speed nut. Tighten the speed nut 37 920 kPa) during installation. If the read-
and remove any slack in the assembly. ing reaches the operating limit of 10,000 psi
4.6 Connect a hydraulic pumping unit to the (68 950 kPa) and the bushing is not going
ram and apply force until the ram cylinder into the beam, check the alignment of the
reaches its stroke limit. bushing, tooling, and hydraulic equipment.
4.7 Release the pressure, add spacers, and Installation is complete when the installing
tighten the speed nut. About three adjust- adapter is flush against the beam.

Installation
chassis grease in the grease fitting. Lubricate

INSTALLING ADAPTER until clean grease appears at both ends of the
REMOVING/ grease seals.
INSTALLING
ADAPTER 8. Install the crosstube.
9. Install the saddle caps or the equalizer beam (if
removed) on the axle beam hangers. For instruc-
SHALLOW RIDGE
INSTALLING ADAPTER
BUSHING
DEEP RIDGE
03/31/93 f320171
Fig. 4
4.8 On the inboard side of the beam, position
a grease seal and installing adapter
against the center bushing. Make sure
the shallow end of the adapter is against REMOVING/
the grease seal ( see Fig. 5). Using a BUSHING INSTALLING
SEAL ADAPTER
hammer, tap the installing adapter until it 03/31/93 f320355
is flat against the beam. Using the same
procedure, install a grease seal on the Fig. 5
outboard side of the beam.
5.1 Center the new bushing in the beam eye.
Using a standard bushing driver, press
the bushing in until there is equal spacing
between both bushing ends and the sides
of the beam eye.
5.2 Install the new grease seals (with the seal
lips facing out).
NOTE: Check that the new seals are 1/6
inch (4 mm) inside the beam hub surface to
ensure clearance and protection of the seals
when the saddle cap is installed.
6. Apply a thin coating of multipurpose chassis
grease to the inside surface of the center bush-
ing. Slide the bushing center sleeve into the
bushing.
7. Install the grease fitting into the beam hub. Ro-
tate the center sleeve and apply multipurpose

Torque Rod and Bushing Removal and Installation
Removal torque rod stud. Apply lubricating oil (

see Fig. 3), then press the stud out of the bush-
ing.
are available, see the table under Specifica- 5. Position the bushing remover/replacer tool (using
tions, 400, before beginning these procedures. the end with the larger outside diameter) on the
Special tools are available from the Owatonna bushing. Install the cap, then apply lubricating oil
Tool Company, Owatonna, Minnesota, or an af- to the torque rod bushing.
filiated dealer. 6. Press the rubber bushing out of the torque rod
eye.
WARNING 7. Position the straddle mount end of the torque rod
into the hole of the press plate. Tighten the press
WARNING: When the torque rods are discon- plate capscrews.
nected from the axle brackets, the axles become
free to pivot on the equalizer beam end bushings. 8. Position the straddle mount pin remover on the
Keep clear of the beam hangers and beam ends straddle mount pin ( see Fig. 4).
to avoid possible injury. 9. Apply lubricating oil to the straddle mount pin.
1. On fore and aft torque rods, remove the flanged Press the straddle mount pin out of the bushing.
bolts and nuts from the torque rod axle brackets,
10. Position the end of the rubber bushing remover/
and the crossmember mounting brackets (
replacer tool (using the end that has the larger
see Fig. 1). Remove the torque rods.
outside diameter) on the bushing. Install the cap,
On transverse torque rods, remove the nuts and then apply lubricating oil to the torque rod bush-
washers from the axle brackets, and remove the ing.
flanged bolts and nuts from the frame rail mount-
11. Press the rubber bushing out of the torque rod
ing brackets ( see Fig. 1). Remove the torque
eye.
rods.
NOTE: If necessary, use an impact hammer and Installation
tap the top of the axle bracket to disengage the
rod stud from the axle bracket. 1. Remove all dirt and grease from the torque rod
2. Inspect the torque rods. If bent or cracked, re- ends. Apply lubricant on the new bushings and in
place. Check the torque rod bushings. If one of the torque rod eyes.
the bushings is loose or damaged, replace both 2. Position the press plate on the hydraulic press.
of the bushings. Check that the small counterbore of the plate
3. Position the press plate on the hydraulic press. hole is facing up.
Check that the small counterbore of the plate 3. Position the new bushing on the tapered stud of
hole is facing up. transverse torque rods. Position the clamp and
NOTE: Some tapered stud torque rod bushings tighten it to compress the rubber ( see Fig. 5).
have a large non-removable washer on the stud 4. Place the torque rod end, the bushing, and the
that will not fit though the press plate hole. clamp on the press plate.
Loosen the press plate capscrews and separate 5. Place the remover/replacer tool ( see Fig. 6) and
the halves ( see Fig. 2) until the washer clears cap on top of the clamping tool and press the
the counterbore, and the torque rod sets on the bushing in the torque rod end. Check that the
press plate. Tighten the capscrews until the bushing sleeve protrudes equally on each side of
press plate halves are closed. the torque rod end.
4. Position the tapered stud removal tool (using the 6. On straddle mount end assemblies, align the
end with the larger inside diameter) on the clamping tool on the bushing as shown in Fig. 7

10
6 6
5
13
11
7
8 12
2
5 3 2
2
3
3 6 3
5 5 12
4 2 14
9
52
10
25 15 6
5
3
2 25 3
8 4
5
1
6
7
16
1. Left−Hand 7. Transverse Torque Rod 13. Right−Hand

Frame Rail 8. Transverse Torque Rod, Frame Rail
2. Flanged Hexnut Axle Mounting Bracket 14. Crossmember
3. Spacer 9. Forward Rear−Axle 15. Fore and Aft Torque Rod,
4. Transverse Torque Rod 10. Fore and Aft Torque Rod Axle Mounting Bracket
Mounting Bracket 11. Capscrew 16. Rearmost Axle
5. Hardened Washer 12. Fore and Aft Torque Rod
6. Flanged Hexbolt Mounting Bracket
03/23/93 f320172
Fig. 1, Torque Rod Mounting Assembly

. Tighten the clamp to compress the rubber of 8. Using the larger end of the remover/ replacer
the new straddle mount bushing. tool, position the tool and cap on top of the
clamp assembly.
NOTE: When tightening the clamp, make sure
that the position of the bushing pin is at a right 9. Press the bushing in the torque rod end. Check
angle to the center line of the torque rod shank that the bushing’s outer sleeve protrudes equally
( see Fig. 8). on each side of the torque rod end.
7. Place the torque rod end, the bushing, and the 10. Install the fore and aft torque rods as follows (
clamp on the press plate. see Fig. 1):

03/24/93 f320175
1
Fig. 4
2
1. Clamping Tool
03/24/93 f320173
Fig. 2
1. Bushing
2. Clamping Tool
03/26/93 f320075
Fig. 5
spacer and nut on each bolt, and tighten
190 lbf·ft (260 N·m).
10.2 Position a torque rod straddle mount pin
in the rearmost axle bracket. Install the
03/24/93 f320174
flanged bolts through the axle bracket
Fig. 3 and the straddle mount pin. Install a
spacer and nut on each bolt, and tighten
10.1 Position a torque rod straddle mount pin 190 lbf·ft (260 N·m).
in the forward-rear axle bracket. Install
the flanged bolts through the axle bracket 10.3 Position a torque rod spacer and straddle
and the straddle mount pin. Install a mount bracket on each side of the cross-

03/26/93 f320363
Fig. 8
mount pin of the rear torque rod. Install
the nuts and bearing washers. Tighten
the nuts 190 lbf·ft (260 N·m).
11. Install the transverse torque rods as follows (
see Fig. 1):
1. Remover/Replacer 2. Clamping Tool 11.1 Check that the tapered stud end and the
Tool tapered stud bracket hole are clean. Lu-
03/26/93 f320356
bricate the tapered stud ends with SAE
Fig. 6 20 oil.
11.2 Install the tapered stud in the axle
bracket. Install a washer and nut. Tighten
2 the nut 175 to 225 lbf·ft (235 to 305 N·m).
11.3 Align the straddle mount end, the mount-
ing bracket, and the spacer against the
inside frame rail.
11.4 On the inboard side of the frame rail, in-
1 stall the bolts through the mounting as-
sembly and the frame rail.
11.5 On the outboard side of the frame rail,
install a spacer over the mounting bolt
studs. Install the nuts and tighten them
190 lbf·ft (260 N·m).
1. Clamping Tool 12. Check the axle pinion angle. For instructions,
2. Pin refer to the driveline section in this manual.
03/26/93 f320357
Fig. 7
member. Insert bolts through the upper
and lower holes of the forward mounting
bracket. Install nuts and tighten 95 lbf·ft
(130 N·m).
10.4 Position the straddle mount pin of the for-
ward torque rod in the mounting bracket.
Insert bolts through the forward pin, both
bracket assemblies, and the straddle

Specifications
Part Tool Usage

Number
1745 Adapter Puller Set Adapter-Type End Support Removal
1761 Torque Rod Set Torque Rod Bushing Removal and Installation
28536 Installing Adapter (5-3/4" o.d.) Bronze Center Bushing and Seal Removal and Installation
44119 Receiving Tube Center and End Bushing Removal and Installation
45052 Adapter Clamp End Bushing Installation
51678 80-Ton Hydraulic Ram All Operations
51695 Jack All Operations
206459 Plate End Bushing Installation
302018 Spacer (3 qty.) Center and End Bushing Removal and Installation
302019 Receiving Adapter End Bushing Removal and Installation
302023 Pulling Screw All Operations
302024 Removing and Installing Adapter Bronze Center Bushing Removal and Installation
302026 Installing Adapter Rubber Center Bushing Removal and Installation
302027 Removing Adapter Rubber Center Bushing Removal and Installation
302028 Hexnut All Operations
302029 Speed Nut All Operations
302030 Removing Adapter End Bushing Removal and Installation
Table 1, Special Tools (Owatonna Tool Company)
Tool Number Dimensions Usage

1 4-1/4 inch o.d. by 4 inch Beam End Bushing Removal
2 4-1/2 inch i.d. by 4 inch Beam End Bushing Installation
3 4-5/8 inch o.d. by 7 inch Beam Center Bushing Removal and Installation
Table 2, Shop-Made Adapters

Top Pad to Spring Aligning Setscrew — 100-150 (135-200)
Top Pad Nut — 275-400 (375-542)
Spring Pin Locknut 1/2-13 45-63 (61-85)
Torque Rod Straddle Mount Nut 5/8-11 190 (260)
Torque Rod Stud Locknut 1-1/4-12 175-225 (235-305)
Saddle Cap Stud 7/8-14 55-65 (75-90)
Saddle Cap Locknut 7/8-14 225-275 (305-373)
Adapter-Type Beam End Locknut 3/4-16 210-240 (285-325)
Tube-Type Beam End Nut 2-1/2-12 375-425 (508-576)

Specifications

Spring Center Bolt 7/16-20 50-60 (70-80)
1/2-20 65-75 (90-100)
Rebound Spacer Locknut 1/2-13 38-45 (51-61)
Spring Alignment Clip — 15 (20)
Fore and Aft Torque Rod Mount Nut — 95 (130)

Reyco® 101/102 Suspension 32.09
General Information
General Information each spring assembly is formed into a hook which

catches on a spring roller and rebound bolt to pre-
vent excessive forward movement of the axle if a
The Reyco suspension has two springs at each side
radius rod breaks.
of the vehicle frame. See Fig. 1. These springs are
supported and held in place by three frame-mounted
NOTE: Effective April 1, 1995, Reyco rede-
brackets. The two forward brackets also serve as
mounts for the axle radius rod eyes. The middle signed the adjustable torque end track rod with
bracket is a two-piece assembly that supports one a lighter weight rod. See Fig. 2. Changes in
end of each tandem spring. The two pieces are fas- torque values are listed in Specifications, 400.
tened together in a pivoting manner, permitting Reyco also redesigned the torque arm bushing
movement of the individual leaf springs as they ad- assembly used on the hanger end of the 102
just to varying load and changing road contours. The Series and all spring suspensions.
distribution of the vehicle load is equalized between
the axles by the leveling action of this pivoting as-
sembly.
08/10/95 f320416
1. Adjustable Torque Tracking Rod
Fig. 1, Reyco Suspension (typical, before April 1, 1995)

Driving and braking forces are transmitted to the ve-
hicle frame through radius rods or torque leaves. Ec-
centric bushings at the forward end (or eye) of each
radius rod permit alignment of each axle indepen-
dently of the other. A total adjustment of 7/16 inch
(11 mm) can be made on each side of the vehicle.
Road shock is cushioned by rubber bushings and
cushions at most points of movement. Lubrication of
suspension parts is not necessary. The rear end of

32.09 Reyco® 101/102 Suspension
General Information
08/10/95 f320417
1. Adjustable Torque Tracking Rod
Fig. 2, Reyco Suspension (typical, from April 1, 1995)

Suspension Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal NOTE: For clarity, only one of each of the re-

bound components is shown in Fig. 1 even
If the suspension system is being overhauled, re- though two are used on the equalizer arm.
move the suspension using the following procedure: 8. Secure all radius rods to the spring assemblies.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the 9. On both sides of the vehicle, remove the rear
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock spring bracket rebound bolt, spring roller, and
the front tires. bushing.
2. Drain the vehicle air system. Disconnect all air 10. Using the hoist, raise the frame high enough to
lines leading to the rear axles, marking the lines remove the tandem assembly out from under the
for later assembly reference. Plug all lines and frame.
fittings to prevent dirt or foreign material from
entering the lines.
Inspection
3. Disconnect the driveline rear universal joint from
the forward-rear axle. For instructions see 1. Clean the suspension parts and inspect all parts
Group 41. carefully for cracks, excessive wear, or damage.
4. Manually cage the parking brake chambers. For 2. Inspect the rubber bushings for damage or wear.
3. Replace components as required, following the
5. Using an overhead hoist, raise the rear of the instructions in this subject.
vehicle enough to relieve the weight from the
suspension. Support the frame and axle with
safety stands. Installation
WARNING NOTE: When repairs are made on the removed
tandem suspension that involve removal and
Securely support all axle and frame weight with installation of the spring U-bolts or radius rods,
safety stands during suspension repairs. Unse- the mounting nuts should be tightened only par-
cured components may drop when fasteners are tially before installation. When the tandem sus-
loosened or removed, causing serious personal pension is installed, do a preliminary alignment
injury and component damage. of the axles to the frame as described below.
NOTE: Do not raise the vehicle to the point Then tighten the rear axle U-bolt nuts to the fi-
where the suspension and axles hang from the nal torque. Tighten the radius rod bolts to the
vehicle. final torque only after the final alignment of the
axles. See Specifications, 400 for the torque
6. On both sides of the vehicle, remove the settings.
forward-rear spring bracket rebound bolt, spring
roller, radius rod eye bolt, large flatwashers, and 1. With the frame raised on a hoist and a hydraulic
eccentric rubber bushings. See Fig. 1. floor jack under the forward-rear axle differential
NOTE: The radius rod eye bushing is a two- carrier, roll the axles and suspension assembly
piece unit. Insert a punch into the inside of the into position under the frame. Lower the frame.
bushing and drive out one side of the bushing. 2. On both sides of the vehicle install the rear
Insert the punch from the opposite side to re- spring bracket bushing, spring roller, and re-
move the remaining half of the bushing. bound bolt, washer, and nut. Tighten the nut 75
lbf·ft (102 N·m).
7. On both sides of the vehicle, remove the re-
bound bolts and the spring rollers from the 3. On both sides of the vehicle install the spring
equalizer arm. rollers, rebound bolts, washers, and nuts in the
center spring equalizer arm. Tighten the nuts 75
lbf·ft (102 N·m).

6 7
5
4
10
27
8 9
29 30
11
3 31
2
1 12
13 24 25 27 33 32
23 26 34
28 46
22
45
14
47
35 44
36 48 49
37
21 42
51
20
43
16 50
51
15 19 41 51
53
18
52
17 38
39 51
54
40
55
59
60 56
57
02/01/96 58 f320412
1. Radius Rod Eye Bolt 21. Locknut 41. Rearmost Spring Assembly
2. Flatwasher 22. Pivot Shaft Nut 42. U-Bolts
3. Rubber Bushing (half) 23. Pivot Shaft 43. U-Bolt Spacer Pad
4. Rebound Bolt 24. Lockwasher 44. Rebound Bolt
5. Rebound Bolt Washer 25. Pivot Shaft Bushing 45. Spring Roller
6. Spring Roller 26. Rebound Bolt 46. Bushing
7. Forward Spring Bracket 27. Equalizer Arm 47. Rear Spring Bracket
8. Rubber Bushing (half) 28. Spring Roller 48. Rebound Washer
9. Flatwasher 29. Rebound Bolt Washer 49. Rebound Bolt Nut
10. Radius Rod Eye Bolt Nut 30. Rebound Bolt Nut 50. Clamp Plate
11. U-Bolts 31. Equalizer Bracket 51. Capscrew
12. Upper U-Bolt Spacer Pad 32. Radius Rod Eye Bolt Nut 52. Plastic Pad
13. Forward-Rear Spring Assembly 33. Flatwasher 53. Clamp Plate
14. Radius Rod (rigid type) 34. Rubber Bushing (half) 54. Lock Nut
15. Radius Rod Bolt 35. Rubber Bushing (half) 55. Rearmost Axle Seat
16. Bushing 36. Flatwasher 56. U-Bolt Anchor Plate
17. U-Bolt Nut 37. Radius Rod Eye Bolt 57. U-Bolt Washer
18. U-Bolt Washer 38. Capscrew, Washer, and Nut 58. U-Bolt Nut
19. U-Bolt Anchor Plate 39. Radius Rod (adjustable type) 59. Bushing
20. Forward-Rear Axle Seat 40. Capscrew, Washer, and Nut 60. Radius Rod Bolt
Fig. 1, Reyco Suspension (exploded view)

4. On both sides of the vehicle install the forward 11. Make sure the radius rod eye bolt nuts are tight-
spring bracket rebound bolt, washer, and spring ened to the torque value in Specifications, 400.
roller. There is no nut on the forward spring
bracket rebound bolt. Tighten the bolt 75 lbf·ft
(102 N·m).
5. Connect the driveline rear universal joint to the
forward-rear axle. See Group 41. Remove the
hydraulic floor jack.
6. Lower each radius rod and align the radius rod
eye with the spring bracket. Install both halves of
the rubber eccentric bushing into the spring
bracket from the outside with the flat of the bush-
ing insert in the down position, or with the arrow
pointing up. Install the large flatwasher onto the
bolt and insert the bolt into the bushing with the
arrow on the bolt head also pointing up. Install
the large flatwasher and nut on the bolt. Tighten
the nut, but not to its final torque.
NOTE: With all four radius rod eccentric bush-
ings and bolts installed with the arrows pointing
up, the suspension is in its base alignment to
the frame.
7. Tighten the rear axle U-bolt nuts to the final
torque listed in Specifications, 400 in the se-
quence shown in Fig. 2.
1 3
4 2
04/05/2000 f320415
Fig. 2, U-Bolt Tightening Sequence

8. Taking care to prevent dirt and other foreign ma-
terial from entering the lines or fittings, connect
the air brake lines leading to the axles. Close the
air system drain valve.
9. Check the axle pinion angle. For instructions,
see Group 41. Adjust the angle if it is not ac-
cording to specifications.
10. Check the axle alignment and adjust it if needed.
For instructions, see Subject 140.

Spring Removal and Installation
Forward-Rear Spring Removal 5. Place the upper U-bolt spacer pad on top of the
spring. Install the U-bolts and the U-bolt anchor
plate. Install the U-bolt washers and nuts. Par-
tially tighten the nuts until preliminary adjustment
of the suspension has been made; then, tighten
the tires.
them in the sequence shown in Fig. 2.
2. Raise the vehicle and block the axles with safety
6. Install the wheels. Remove all safety stands. Re-
stands. Raise the vehicle frame so that all weight
move the chocks from the tires.
is removed from the leaf springs, then block the
frame with safety stands. Make sure the stands
will support the weight of the axles and frame Rearmost Spring Removal
securely. Remove the wheel assembly to gain
easy access to the suspension system. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
3. Remove the U-bolts and the U-bolt anchor plate.
the tires.
Remove the front rebound bolt, washer, and
spring roller from the front spring bracket. See 2. Raise the vehicle and block the axles with safety
Fig. 1. stands. Raise the vehicle frame so that all weight
is removed from the leaf springs, then block the
4. Remove the rebound bolt, nut, washer, and
frame with safety stands. Make sure the stands
spring roller from the front of the equalizer arm in
will support the weight of the axles and frame
the equalizer bracket.
securely. Remove the wheel assembly to gain
NOTE: Some references in Fig. 1 are shown at easy access to the suspension system.
the rear of the equalizer arm. For clarity, they 3. Remove the U-bolt nuts and washers, the U-bolt
have been omitted at the front of the equalizer anchor plate, the U-bolts, and the upper U-bolt
arm. spacer pad.
5. Slide the spring forward until it clears the equal- 4. Remove the rear rebound bolt, nut, washer,
izer arm. Lift the spring assembly at the rear to spring roller, and bushing from the rear spring
clear the equalizer arm. Slide the spring to the bracket.
rear and remove it.
5. Remove the rear rebound bolt, nut, washer, and
spring roller from the equalizer arm in the equal-
Forward-Rear Spring izer bracket.
Installation 6. Slide the spring rearward until it clears the equal-
izer arm. Lift the spring assembly at the front to
1. Locate the spring in the front spring bracket and clear the equalizer arm and remove the spring.
slide it forward until the rear of the spring is in
position to clear the equalizer arm.
Rearmost Spring Installation
2. Slide the spring rearward into position in the
equalizer arm. 1. Locate the spring in the front spring bracket and
3. Install the rebound bolts, washers, spring rollers, slide it to the rear until the front of the spring is
and nuts in the front spring bracket and in the in position to clear the equalizer arm.
equalizer arm. There is no nut on the rebound 2. Slide the spring forward into position in the
bolt in the front spring bracket. Tighten the fas- equalizer arm.
teners 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
3. Install the rebound bolts, washers, and spring
4. Place the spring assembly on the axle spring rollers in the rear spring bracket and in the
seat with the center bolt head in the locating hole equalizer arm. Tighten the nuts 75 lbf·ft (102
of the lower spring seat. N·m).

6 7
5
4
10
27
8 9
29 30
11
3 31
2
1 12
13 24 25 27 33 32
23 26 34
28 46
22
45
14
47
35 44
36 48 49
37
21 42
51
20
43
16 50
51
15 19 41 51
53
18
52
17 38
39 51
54
40
55
59
60 56
57
02/01/96 58 f320412

1 3
4 2
04/05/2000 f320415
Fig. 2, U-Bolt Tightening Sequence

4. Place the spring assembly on the axle spring
seat with the center bolt head in the locating hole
of the lower spring seat.
5. Place the upper U-bolt spacer plate on top of the
spring. Install the U-bolts and the U-bolt anchor
plate. Install the U-bolt washers and nuts. Par-
tially tighten the nuts until preliminary adjustment
of the suspension has been made; then, tighten
them in the sequence shown in Fig. 2.
6. Install the wheels. Remove all safety stands. Re-
move the chocks from the tires.

Spring Disassembly, Inspection, and Assembly
Disassembly, Inspection, and 10. For assembly, stack the spring leaves using care
to position them in the proper sequence.
Assembly 11. Using a long punch or other suitable tool, align
the center bolt holes. Anchor the spring at a
1. Before disassembly, use chalk or a grease pencil
point near the center bolt hole in a vise or arbor
to make a mark down the side of the spring pile
press. Tighten the vise or arbor press firmly. Re-
so the spring leaves can be assembled in the
move the alignment tool.
same relative position.
12. Install the center bolt and nut. Tighten the nut 70
2. Anchor the spring at a point near the center bolt
lbf·ft (95 N·m) and peen the end of the bolt.
in a vise or arbor press. Tighten the vise or arbor
press firmly. 13. Install the bolts, nuts, and spacer sleeves to the
spring clips. Tighten the nuts firmly. Peen the
3. Remove the bolts, nuts, and sleeve from the
ends of the bolts.
spring clips. Observe the spring leaves. Pay spe-
cial attention to the top three leaves, since the 14. Remove the assembly from the vise or arbor
spring can easily be incorrectly assembled, even press.
though reference marks are used.
4. Prior to inspection, wash all parts in a suitable
solvent. Remove any scale, rust, or deposits
from the spring leaves.
5. Inspect all the leaves for breaks and small
cracks. If any are found, replace the entire spring
assembly.
WARNING
Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged
leaf spring assembly; replace the complete
spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or
sembly could cause an accident resulting in seri-
ous personal injury or property damage.
6. Inspect the spring assembly for loose or broken
rebound clips. Rebound clips should be tight
enough to hold the spring leaves in alignment,
but not tight enough to restrict the free move-
ment of the leaves.
7. Inspect the center bolt for distortion and wear.
Replace the bolt if it is not in good condition.
8. Inspect the U-bolts and spring spacer plates. Re-
place them if they are damaged or cracked.
9. Inspect the spring brackets at the reinforcing
webs and in the corners. Do not weld or braze
cracks. If the bracket is cracked, replace it.

Spring Bracket Removal and Installation
Bracket Removal and 7. Remove all the bolts, nuts, and washers securing
the spring bracket to the frame.
Installation 8. Remove the spring bracket and spacer plate,
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the moving it away from the spring end and lifting it
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock straight up from the frame.
the tires. 9. To remove the rear spring bracket, raise the
2. To remove the forward spring bracket, raise the frame until all weight is off the spring, then safely
frame until all weight is off the spring, and safely block it in position.
block it in position. 10. Remove the bolts, nuts, and washers that secure
3. Remove the rebound bolt, washer, and spring the rear spring bracket to the frame.
roller from the front spring bracket. See Fig. 1. 11. Remove the spring bracket and spacer plate.
12. To remove the equalizer bracket (center spring
6 7 bracket), raise the frame until all weight is off the
5 spring, then safely block it in position.
4
10 13. Remove the rebound nuts, washers, bolts, and
8 9 spring rollers from the ends of the equalizer arm.
See Fig. 2.
5 8 9
3
2 4
1 11 3
2
10
1
6 12 11
7 13
06/06/95 f320414
1. Radius Rod Eye Bolt 7. Forward Spring 15 14
2. Flatwasher Bracket
3. Rubber Bushing 8. Rubber Bushing 16
(half) (half)
4. Rebound Bolt 9. Flatwasher
5. Rebound Bolt 10. Radius Rod Eye Bolt
Washer Nut
6. Spring Roller 11. Radius Rod
17
Fig. 1, Forward Spring Bracket Assembly
4. Remove the radius rod eye bolt nut and large 06/06/95 f320413
flatwasher from the eye bolt. 1. Pivot Shaft Nut 11. Radius Rod Eye Bolt
2. Pivot Shaft Nut
5. Using a brass drift, drive the eye bolt with the 3. Lockwasher 12. Flatwasher
remaining flatwasher from the spring bracket. 4. Pivot Shaft Bushing 13. Rubber Bushing
Secure the radius rod to the spring. 5. Equalizer Arm (half)
6. Rebound Bolt 14. Rubber Bushing
6. Using a brass drift inside the rubber bushing, 7. Spring Roller (half)
drive out one half of the bushing. Reverse the 8. Rebound Bolt 15. Flatwasher
position of the drift and drive out the other half of Washer 16. Radius Rod Eye Bolt
the bushing from the opposite side of the 9. Rebound Bolt Nut 17. Radius Rod
bracket. 10. Equalizer Bracket
Fig. 2, Equalizer Arm and Bracket Assembly

Spring Bracket Removal and Installation
14. Remove the radius rod eye bolt nut and large
flatwasher from the eye bolt.
15. Using a brass drift, drive the eye bolt with the
remaining flatwasher from the equalizer bracket.
16. Secure the radius rod to the spring.
17. Using a brass drift inside the rubber bushing,
drive out one half of the bushing. Reverse the
position of the drift and drive out the other half of
the bushing from the opposite side of the
bracket.
18. Remove the equalizer pivot nut, lockwasher, and
shaft.
19. Slide the equalizer back and forth as necessary
to gain access to the mounting bracket bolts.
20. Remove all the bolts, nuts, and washers that se-
cure the equalizer bracket to the frame.
21. Remove the equalizer bracket and the spacer
plate.
22. To install spring or equalizer brackets, reverse
the removal procedure. Make sure the spacer
plates are installed between the frame and
bracket. Check the axle alignment, and correct it
if necessary, before tightening the radius rod eye
bolt nuts to the final torque. For instructions, see
Subject 140.

Radius Rod and Radius Rod Bushing Replacement
Radius Rod Replacement Radius Rod Bushing

Replacement
the tires.
2. Raise the frame until all weight is off the spring, the tires.
then safely block the frame in position.
2. Raise the frame until all weight is off the spring,
3. Remove the locknut, washer (if so equipped), then safely block the frame in position.
and bolt from the radius rod at the axle seat.
3. Remove the radius rod as follows:
Lower the rod. See Fig. 1.
3.1 Remove the locknut, washer (if so
4. Remove the nut and large flatwasher from the
equipped), and bolt from the radius rod at
radius rod eye bolt. Using a brass drift tool, drive
the axle seat. Lower the rod. See Fig. 1.
the eye bolt with the remaining flatwasher from
the forward spring bracket or equalizer bracket. 3.2 Remove the nut and large flatwasher
from the radius rod eye bolt. Using a
5. Using a brass drift inside the rubber bushing,
brass drift tool, drive the eye bolt with the
drive out one half of the bushing. Reverse the
remaining flat washer from the front
position of the drift and drive out the other half of
spring or equalizer bracket.
the bushing from the opposite side of the
bracket. 3.3 Using a brass drift inside the rubber
bushing, drive out one half of the bush-
6. Remove the radius rod.
ing. Reverse the position of the drift and
7. Place the eye of the new radius rod into the front drive out the other half of the bushing
spring or equalizer bracket. from the opposite side of the bracket.
8. Install both halves of the rubber eccentric bush- 3.4 Remove the radius rod.
ing into the bracket from the outside with the flat
4. Press the old bushing out of the radius rod.
of the bushing insert pointing down or the arrow
pointing up. 5. Coat the new bushing with a rubber lubricant and
press it in so the bushing is equal on both sides
9. Install the large flatwasher onto the radius rod
of the rod.
eye bolt and insert the bolt into the bushing with
the arrow on the bolt head pointing up. 6. Install the radius rod as follows:
10. Install the large flatwasher and the nut on the 6.1 Place the eye of the radius rod into the
radius rod eye bolt. Tighten the nut, but not to its front spring or equalizer bracket.
final torque.
6.2 Install both halves of the rubber eccentric
11. Check the axle alignment and adjust it if neces- bushing into the bracket from the outside
sary. For instructions, see Subject 140. with the flat of the bushing insert pointing
down or the arrow pointing up.
12. After the adjustment has been made, lower the
vehicle and tighten the radius rod eye bolt nut to 6.3 Install the large flatwasher onto the radius
the torque value in Specifications, 400. rod eye bolt and insert the bolt into the
bushing with the arrow on the bolt head
pointing up.
6.4 Install the large flatwasher and the nut on
the radius rod eye bolt. Tighten the nut,
but not to its final torque.
7. Check the axle alignment and adjust it if neces-
sary. For instructions, see Subject 140.

6 7
5
4
10
27
8 9
29 30
11
3 31
2
1 12
13 24 25 27 33 32
23 26 34
28 46
22
45
14
47
35 44
36 48 49
37
21 42
51
20
43
16 50
51
15 19 41 51
53
18
52
17 38
39 51
54
40
55
59
60 56
57
02/01/96 58 f320412


vehicle and tighten the radius rod eye bolt nut to
the torque value in Specifications, 400.

Equalizer Arm Bushing Replacement
Replacement 5. Secure the radius rod to the spring.

6. Remove the equalizer pivot nut, washer, and
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the shaft.
the tires. 7. Move the equalizer arm forward over the forward
rear spring. Raise the frame. Slide the equalizer
2. Raise the frame until all the weight is off the arm rearward through the bracket, then up and
springs, then safely block the frame into position. out.
3. Remove the rebound nuts, washers, bolts, and 8. Using a suitable press, press out the equalizer
spring rollers from the ends of the equalizer arm. bushing.
See Fig. 1.
9. Coat the new bushing with a rubber lubricant.
5 8 9 10. Press the bushing into the equalizer arm.
4
3 11. With the frame raised and the equalizer arm
2 properly positioned, slide the equalizer arm into
10 the equalizer bracket and forward over the front
1
spring assembly.
6 12 11
7 13 12. Lower the frame and slide the equalizer arm over
the rear spring until the center hole aligns with
the hole in the equalizer bracket.
15 14
13. Install the pivot shaft.
16
13.1 Apply anti-seize compound to the pivot
shaft threads.
13.2 Install the pivot shaft by hand in the
bracket.
17 13.3 With steel crossmembers, install the bolt
with the nut inside the frame.
06/06/95 f320413
13.4 With aluminum crossmembers, install the
1. Pivot Shaft Nut 11. Radius Rod Eye Bolt bolt with the nut outside the frame.
2. Pivot Shaft Nut
3. Lockwasher 12. Flatwasher 13.5 When the shaft reaches the frame rail,
4. Pivot Shaft Bushing 13. Rubber Bushing back it out one-half turn.
5. Equalizer Arm (half)
6. Rebound Bolt 14. Rubber Bushing 13.6 Install the lockwasher and nut. Tighten
7. Spring Roller (half) the nut 975 lbf·ft (1330 N·m).
8. Rebound Bolt 15. Flatwasher
Washer 16. Radius Rod Eye Bolt 14. Install the radius rod as follows (see Fig. 1):
9. Rebound Bolt Nut 17. Radius Rod 14.1 Place the radius rod eye into the equal-
10. Equalizer Bracket
izer bracket. Install both halves of the
Fig. 1, Equalizer Arm and Bracket Assembly rubber eccentric bushing into the bracket
from the outside, with the flat of the bush-
NOTE: For clarity, only one of each of the re- ing insert pointing down or the arrow
bound components is shown, even though two pointing up.
are used on the equalizer arm. 14.2 Install the large flatwasher onto the radius
4. Remove the nut and large flatwasher from the rod eye bolt and insert the bolt into the
radius rod eye bolt. Using a brass drift, drive the bushing with the arrow on the bolt head
eye bolt with the remaining flatwasher from the pointing up.
equalizer bracket.

Equalizer Arm Bushing Replacement
14.3 Install the large flatwasher and the nut on

the bolt. Tighten the nut, but not to its fi-
nal torque.
14.4 Check the axle alignment and adjust it if
necessary. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 140. After the adjustment has been
made, lower the vehicle and tighten the
radius rod eye bolt nut to the torque value
shown in Specifications, 400.
15. Install the spring rollers and rebound bolts in the
equalizer arm and tighten the nuts 45 lbf·ft (61
N·m).

Axle Alignment Checking and Adjusting
Checking 9.1 Measure the distance from the rearmost

axle shaft center to the center of the
Manufacturers of axle alignment equipment offer a forward-rear axle or the bar stock.
variety of systems to precisely measure and correct 9.2 Repeat the measurement for the opposite
rear axle alignment. If access to this type of equip- side and compare the measurements. If
ment is not available, check the axle alignment using they are equal or vary no more than 1/8-
the following procedure: inch (3-mm), the axle alignment is cor-
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface. Using the rect. If the measurements differ by more
engine, rock the vehicle back and forth several than 1/8-inch (3-mm), adjust the axle
times with the brakes applied lightly. This will re- alignment as described above.
lease any "set" of the suspension joint.
2. Obtain a piece of bar stock, angle iron, or other
Adjustment (Models 101 and
suitable material about 96 inches (2.5 m) long. 101A)
Inspect the material for straightness. The bar
should be long enough to extend past the out- 1. Loosen the nut on the radius rod eye bolt three
side edge of one outside dual tire to a similar full turns.
point on the opposite dual tire.
2. Using a soft brass or lead hammer to avoid dam-
3. Measure from the center point of the equalizer age to the eye bolt threads, tap the end of the
bracket to any open part of the frame in front of eye bolt and the end of the rod between the front
the wheels where the bar stock can be placed spring bracket casting. This should loosen the
across the frame. This point must be accessible components so the adjustment can be made.
for the use of C-clamps. A point in front of the
forward-rear axle is recommended; however, a NOTE: The maximum adjustment on each side
point behind the rearmost axle will work if none of the vehicle is 7/16 inch (11 mm). In most
is available in front of the axle. cases, the axle alignment can be corrected by
adjusting one side only; however, additional ad-
4. Using a square, mark a chalk line across the top
justment can be made from the other side of the
of the frame rail.
axle if necessary.
5. Repeat the previous steps for the opposite side
of the vehicle. 3. On the side to be corrected, jack up the frame to
remove the weight from the springs.
6. Position the bar stock across the frame rails so it
extends an equal distance beyond the frame rail 4. To adjust the axle forward, rotate the radius rod
on each side. Line up the bar stock with the eye bolt forward. To adjust the axle rearward,
chalk lines and secure it with C-clamps. rotate the radius rod eye bolt to the rear.
7. Measure the distance from the outside edge of 5. Lower the vehicle and check the axle alignment
the secured bar stock to the center of the rear- as described above. Repeat the adjustment as
most axle shaft. needed.
8. Repeat the previous steps on the opposite side 6. After the final adjustment has been made, lower
of the vehicle. Compare the measurements taken the vehicle and tighten the radius rod eye bolt
on both sides. If they are equal or vary no more nut to the torque value in Specifications, 400.
than 1/8-inch (3-mm), the axle alignment is cor-
rect. If the measurements differ by more than Adjustment (Models 102 and
1/8-inch (3-mm), adjust the axle alignment.
102W)
9. If the rearmost axle alignment is correct, check
the forward-rear axle alignment as follows: 1. On the side to be corrected, jack up the frame to
remove the weight from the springs.

Axle Alignment Checking and Adjusting
2. Loosen the clamp nuts on the radius rod being

adjusted.
3. Using a wrench on the radius rod flats, turn the
adjustable section to move the axle forward or
rearward.
4. Lower the vehicle and check the axle alignment.
Repeat the adjustment as needed.
vehicle and tighten the radius rod clamp nuts
190 lbf·ft (258 N·m).
6. Tighten the radius rod eye bolt nuts to the torque

Troubleshooting
Problem—Spring is Noisy
Problem—Spring is Noisy
Loose U-bolts Tighten the U-bolts to the recommended torque
Worn radius rod eye bushings Replace the radius rod eye bushings.
Worn or damaged shock absorbers Replace the shock absorbers.
Problem—Spring Sags or Bottoms Out

Problem—Spring Sags or Bottoms Out
Shock absorbers not working properly Replace the shock absorbers.
Broken spring leaf Replace the spring leaf assembly.
Overloaded vehicle Check the load capacity rating and correct if needed.
Problem—Springs Break
Problem—Springs Break
Loose U-bolts Tighten the U-bolts to the recommended torque.
Springs experiencing normal fatigue Replace the springs.
Overloaded vehicle Check the load capacity rating and correct if needed.

Specifications
Torque Values
Torque
Description
lbf·ft (N·m)
Equalizer Pivot Shaft: 101A, 102 600 (814)
Equalizer Pivot Shaft: 102W 975 (1330)
Equalizer Arm Rebound Bolt (text) 45 (61)
Rebound Bolt (spec. chart) 60-80 (80-110)
Spring Center Bolt Nut 70 (95)
Spring-Bracket-to-Frame Bolt 180 (244)
Radius Rod Clamp Nut: 101A 125-150 (170-205)
Radius Rod Clamp Nut: 102 125-150 (170-205)
Radius Rod Clamp Nut: 102W 125-150 (170-205)
Radius Rod Eye Bolt: 101A 160 (217)
Radius Rod Eye Bolt: 102 500-525 (670-704)
Radius Rod Eye Bolt: 102W 500-525 (670-704)
Radius Rod Bolt: 101A 250 (339)
Radius Rod Bolt: 102 200 (271)
Radius Rod Bolt: 102W 250 (339)
U-Bolt Nuts: 3/4", First Stage Hand tighten
Second Stage 60 (81) *
Third Stage 200 (271) *
Final Stage 270 to 330 (367 to 449) *
U-Bolt Nuts: 7/8", First Stage Hand tighten
Second Stage 60 (81) *
Third Stage 200 (271) *
Final Stage 420 to 500 (571 to 680) *
* Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown in the Figure.
Table 1, Torque Settings
Tighten U-bolt high nuts in a diagonal pattern as 4 1

shown in Fig. 1.
01/05/99
2 3
f320783

Rear Suspension, Chalmers 800 Series 32.10
General Description
General Description same tube so rotating the tube changes the effective
length of the tube.
The Chalmers 800 Series Rear Suspension is a
walking beam-type tandem axle suspension that
uses hollow rubber springs instead of leaf springs or
air bags. Each hollow rubber spring is mounted be-
tween a frame-rail plate and the center (front-to-rear)
of the steel walking beam. A sawhorse bracket as-
sembly is attached to the frame and provides mount-
ing points for the lower torque rods that tie the axles
to the frame. The upper torque rods are fastened to
brackets that bolt to the frame side rails and to tower
assemblies that are welded to the top of the differen-
tial housings. See Fig. 1.
The 800 Series Rear Suspension allows a high de-
gree of both parallel and diagonal articulation, while
maintaining wheel load equalization to within 3%.
The Chalmers suspension design separates the rear
suspension’s responsibility for supporting/cushioning
the load from that of locating/guiding the axles. The
suspension is very light, relative to its load carrying
capacity, but requires very little maintenance. In fact,
there are no lubrication fittings since grease and oil
are never needed.
The 800 Series Rear Suspension is available in three
different maximum load capacities: 40,000 lb (18,000
kg), 46,000 lb (21,000 kg), and 50,000 lb (23,000
kg). The 40,000 lb version is easily distinguished
from the other two versions since the upper torque
rods do not cross over one another on the 40,000 lb
version.
The 800 Series is also available in three different
axle spacings: 54-inch, 60-inch, and 72-inch axle-to-
axle. The axle-to-axle spacing dimension is often in-
cluded as part of the suspension name, e.g. "Chalm-
ers 854 Rear Suspension" or "Chalmers 860
Suspension."
Shock absorbers are optional on all versions of the
suspension, and available in two styles—beam
mounted and axle housing mounted.
Other variations depend on whether the suspension
is installed on a truck (high-mount) or a tractor (low-
mount) and whether high center-of-gravity or low
center-of-gravity is desired.
The rear suspension may be precision-aligned by
adjusting the length of the lower torque rods. These
rods have both left and right hand threads cut on the

32.10 Rear Suspension, Chalmers 800 Series
General Description
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
13
01/11/96 f320444
1. Restrictor Can 11. Lower Torque Rod (adjustable)
2. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH forward) 12. Torque Rod Bushing (lower)
3. Spigot Cap (upper) 13. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH rear)
4. Upper Torque Rod 14. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH forward)
5. Torque Rod Bushing (upper) 15. Beam
6. Forward Rear Axle Tower 16. Axle Housing Beam Saddle Bracket
7. Rear Axle Tower Plug 17. Beam Spring Plate
8. Rearmost Rear Axle Tower 18. Hollow Rubber Spring
9. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH rear) 19. Sawhorse Bracket Assembly
10. Spigot Cap (lower) 20. Beam Stop
Fig. 1, Chalmers 800 Series Tandem Axle Suspension (40k capacity shown without shock absorbers)

Restrictor Can Removal, Inspection, and Installation
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
13
01/11/96 f320444

1. If necessary, power wash the spring restrictor

can area to remove road dirt accumulation.
Installation
2. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move- 1. Using a stiff wire brush or gasket scraper, clean
ment. rust and road dirt from the spring plate. Also,
make sure that the center vent holes in the plate
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle just enough to re- and in the walking beam are free of rust and de-
move all weight from the rear axles, and place bris. See Fig. 3.
safety stands under the frame to support the ve-
hicle in its raised position.
4. Remove the two bolts and nuts that secure the
walking beam spring plate ( see Fig. 1, Ref. 17)
1
to the walking beam assembly. Discard the fas-
teners.
NOTE: On 54-inch spread suspensions, it may
be necessary to remove either the front or rear 3 2
tires to allow spring assembly removal.
5. Pull the lower spring plate, rubber spring, and 3
restrictor can as one assembly outward, off the
beam assembly. See Fig. 1, Refs. 1, 17, 18. 4
6. Separate the restrictor can, spring, and spring

plate.
A
Inspection
1. Carefully inspect the restrictor can for cracks or 5
severe corrosion. Pay special attention to the top
surface of the can and the can rim. See Fig. 2 .
10/12/95 f320437
A. Make sure that the vent hole in the walking beam

is free of rust and debris.
B 1. Spring Restrictor Can 3. Spring Plate Bolt
2. Hollow Rubber 4. Spring Plate
10/12/95 f320436 Spring 5. Walking Beam
A. Inspect top surface for cracks or severe corrosion. Fig. 3, Spring Assembly Components
B. Carefully inspect can rim for cracks.
2. Inspect the spring plate for cracks; replace it if
Fig. 2, Restrictor Can Inspection Areas any are present.
NOTE: It is recommended that both restrictor IMPORTANT: Never use any mineral based oils,
cans be replaced at the same time to insure greases, jellies, or solvent soaps to aid in the
evenness of ride and handling characteristics. assembly of rubber suspension parts. Use only
2. Replace a cracked or severely corroded restrictor lubricants specifically designed for use with rub-
can. ber compounds.

3. Position the rubber spring on the spring plate so

it is upside down, relative to its original orienta-
tion. Make sure that the spring vent hole is cen-
tered on the spring plate tube. Place the new
restrictor can over the spring; make sure the can
is centered on the spring.
4. Slide, as one assembly, the spring plate, spring,
and restrictor cap, into position on the walking
beam.
5. Install and tighten the spring plate fasteners 35
lbf·ft (47 N·m).
6. Check the gap between the spring and the re-
strictor can to make sure it is even, all the way
around the can. Rotate the spring and/or can as
necessary to make the gap even.

Rubber Spring Replacement
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
13
01/11/96 f320444

Rubber Spring Replacement
1. If necessary, power wash the spring restrictor

can area to remove road dirt accumulation.
2. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move- 1
ment.
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle just enough to re-
move all weight from the rear axles, and place
safety stands under the frame to support the ve- 3 2
hicle in its raised position.
4. Remove the two bolts and nuts that secure the 3
walking beam spring plate ( see Fig. 1, Ref. 17)
to the walking beam assembly. Discard the fas- 4
teners.
be necessary to remove either the front or rear
tires to allow spring assembly removal. A
5. Pull the lower spring plate, rubber spring, and

restrictor can as one assembly outward, off the 5
beam assembly. See Fig. 1, Refs. 1, 17, 18.
6. Separate the restrictor can, spring, and spring
plate; discard the spring.
7. Using a stiff wire brush or gasket scraper, clean
rust and road dirt from the spring plate. Also, 10/12/95 f320437
make sure that the center vent holes in the plate A. Make sure that the vent hole in the walking beam
and in the walking beam are free of rust and de- is free of rust and debris.
bris. See Fig. 2. 1. Spring Restrictor Can 3. Spring Plate Bolt
8. Inspect the spring plate for cracks; replace it if 2. Hollow Rubber 4. Spring Plate
Spring 5. Walking Beam
any are present.
IMPORTANT: Never use any mineral based oils, Fig. 2, Spring Assembly Components
greases, jellies, or solvent soaps to aid in the 12. Remove the safety stands from under the ve-
assembly of rubber suspension parts. Use only hicle, then lower the vehicle.
lubricants specifically designed for use with rub-
ber compounds.
9. Position the new rubber spring on the spring
plate, making sure that the vent hole is centered
on the spring plate tube. Place the restrictor can
over the spring; make sure the can is centered
on the spring.
10. Slide, as one assembly, the spring plate, spring,
and restrictor cap, into position on the walking
beam.
11. Install and tighten the spring plate fasteners 35
lbf·ft (47 N·m).

Replacement 4. Remove and discard the shock absorber.

5. On axle-mounted shock absorber installations,
The Chalmers 800 Series Suspension may be fitted the compression sleeve ( see Fig. 2, Ref. 3) may
with either beam-mounted or axle-mounted shock be rusted to the shock mounting pin and remain
absorbers. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. The replacement on the pin when the shock is removed. If this
procedure is essentially the same for both types of occurs, drive the sleeve off of the pin using a
shock absorber.
2
1
5
4
10/13/95 f320438
1. Shock Absorber 3. Walking Beam 5. 3/4" Mounting Bolts
2. Frame-Mounted Bracket 4. Beam-Mounted Bracket
Fig. 1, Shock Absorbers, Beam-Mounted

1. If necessary, power wash the rear suspension to small, sharp chisel.
remove road dirt accumulation.
6. On axle-mounted shock absorber installations,
2. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move- clean the shock mounting pin threads using a
ment. stiff wire brush or, if necessary, a thread-chaser
die.
3. Remove the shock absorber mounting fasteners.
Lubricate the threads with a small amount of en-
3.1 On beam-mounted shocks, remove the
gine oil.
upper and lower bolts. See Fig. 1, Ref. 5.
Discard the fasteners. 7. Install the new shock absorbers.
3.2 On axle-mounted shocks, remove the up- 7.1 On beam-mounted shock absorber instal-
per and lower locknuts and hardened lations, extend or compress the shock
washers. See Fig. 2, Refs. 4 and 5. Dis- absorber as necessary to install the
card the fasteners.

1
1
3 4
5
6
11/07/95 f320440
1. Frame-Mounted Bracket 3. Compression Sleeve 5. 7/8" Mounting Locknut
2. Shock Absorber 4. Hardened Washer 6. Axle-Mounted Bracket
Fig. 2, Shock Absorbers, Axle-Mounted

mounting bolts. Install the locknuts and
tighten the fasteners 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
7.2 On axle-mounted shock absorber installa-
tions, extend or compress the shock ab-
sorber as necessary to fit it on the mount-
ing pins. Install the locknuts and tighten

Walking Beam Removal, Inspection, and Installation
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
13
01/11/96 f320444

1. If necessary, power wash the walking beams and able, while cracks in or across the beam flanges
axle housing ends to remove road dirt accumula- require walking beam replacement. See Fig. 2.
tion.
ment.
3. Relieve all drive axle brake or wind-up loads by
placing the transmission in neutral and releasing
the spring or driveline brakes.
from the rear axles, and place safety stands un-
der the frame to secure the vehicle in its raised
position.
5. If equipped, disconnect beam-mounted shock
absorbers from the walking beam being re- 1
placed. Refer to Subject 120, if necessary.
A
6. Remove the two bolts and nuts that secure the
walking beam spring plate ( see Fig. 1, Ref. 17) 1
to the walking beam assembly. Discard the fas-
teners.
be necessary to remove the front or rear tires to
allow spring assembly removal.
7. Pull the lower spring plate, rubber spring, and
restrictor can as one assembly outward, off the
beam assembly. See Fig. 1, Refs. 1, 17, 18.
NOTE: Tag or otherwise mark each torque rod
to ensure that it can be re-installed in the same
position and orientation. 1 B
8. Disconnect the rearmost axle’s upper torque rods 10/17/95 f320441
from the rear axle tower and the lower torque A. Repairable Walking Beam
rods from the rear axle housing brackets. B. Non-repairable Walking Beam
See Fig. 1, Refs. 4, 8, 11, 13. 1. Cracks
9. Roll the rear axle rearward just enough to disen- Fig. 2, Repairable/Non-repairable Beam Cracks
gage the axle saddles (Ref. 16) from the walking
beam ends. NOTE: Take flange thickness measurements at
10. Lift up the free end of the walking beam and least 1/2 inch (12 mm) from the flange edges.
slide the beam rearward to disengage it from the Measurements taken at the flange edges are
front axle saddle; remove the walking beam. not an accurate indication of beam wear and
may lead to unnecessary beam repair/
Inspection replacement.
2. Check for excessive wear on the beam flanges,
1. Inspect the beam ends carefully, looking for where they contact the axle housing saddle
cracks. Cracks along weld lines may be repair- brackets.

If flange wear is significant, use a micrometer or

vernier calipers to take measurements at both
unworn and worn areas. The maximum allowable 1
difference between unworn and worn areas is
0.062 inch (1.5 mm). See Fig. 3.
3
A
01/11/96 f320442
1. Front Axle Housing, Beam Saddle Bracket
2. Walking Beam
B 3. Beam Stop
Fig. 4, Beam/Saddle Bracket Alignment

be necessary to install the spring assembly be-
fore the rearmost axle is rolled into place.
09/27/95 f320432 3. Carefully roll the rearmost rear axle forward,
A. Flange thickness measurement taken at unworn while lifting the rear end of the walking beam
area for reference. enough so the beam end enters the axle housing
B. Flange thickness measurement taken at wear area saddle bracket.
to assess beam condition.
4. Connect the rearmost axle’s upper and lower
1. Walking Beam
torque rods to the axle housing brackets. Install
Fig. 3, Beam Wear Measurement and tighten the torque rod bushing through-bolts
135 lbf·ft (183 N·m).
3. Beams showing excessive wear must be re-
paired or replaced. Refer to Subject 140 for 5. Slide, as one assembly, the spring plate, rubber
beam repair information. spring, and restrictor cap, into position on the
walking beam.
Installation 6. Install and tighten the spring plate fasteners 35
lbf·ft (47 N·m).
1. Position the new or repaired walking beam over 7. If so equipped, connect the beam-mounted
the rearmost rear axle, with the front end of the shock absorbers to the beam brackets and
beam tilted downward. tighten the fasteners 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
2. Slide the beam forward and downward so the 8. Remove the safety stands from under the ve-
front end of the beam enters the axle housing hicle, then lower the vehicle.
saddle bracket. See Fig. 4. Let the middle of the
beam rest on the sawhorse bracket beam stop. 9. Remove the chocks from the tires.

Walking Beam Repair
Repair
NOTE: This subject addresses only instances 1
where excessive beam flange wear occurs, but
cracks in the web or flange are not present.
Cracked webs and/or flanges require walking
beam replacement.
Walking beams with excessive flange wear,
however, can be repaired by welding a Chalm- A
ers Wear Plate over the worn areas as de-
scribed below.
1. Remove the walking beam assembly. Refer to B
Subject 130 for information.
NOTE: Take flange thickness measurements at
least 1/2 inch (12 mm) from the flange edges.
Measurements taken at the flange edges are
not an accurate indication of beam wear and
may lead to unnecessary beam repair/ 09/27/95 f320432
replacement.
A. Flange thickness measurement taken at unworn
2. Confirm that flange wear is severe enough to area for reference.
warrant repairs. Use a micrometer or vernier cali- B. Flange thickness measurement taken at wear area
pers to take flange thickness measurements at to assess beam condition.
both unworn and worn areas. The maximum al- 1. Walking Beam
lowable difference between unworn and worn
Fig. 1, Beam Wear Measurement
areas is 0.062 inch (1.5 mm). See Fig. 1.
3. If repair is required, clean the worn area of the
beam thoroughly. Make sure that any oil or 1
grease is removed, as well as rust or road dirt
accumulation. If necessary, slight grinding of the
beam is allowed to smooth raised areas.
4. Clamp Chalmers Wear Plate #700313 to the bot-
tom flange of the beam. Make sure the plate is
centered and has good surface-to-surface con-
tact with the beam. Slight grinding is allowable to
obtain good plate-to-beam contact.
5. Tack weld the plate to the beam, welding on the 2
sides of the plate only.
A
CAUTION 10/19/95 f320443
CAUTION: Weld at sides of wear plate and beam A. Limit weld to this area only.
only. Never weld at the ends of the wear plate. 1. Walking Beam 2. Wear Plate
6. Remove the clamps and weld the plate to the Fig. 2, Chalmers Wear Plate Welding
beam, welding on the sides of the plate only.
See Fig. 2. 7. Prime and paint the repaired area.

Walking Beam Repair
8. Install the repaired walking beam assembly. Re-

fer to Subject 130 for information.

Torque Rod Removal and Installation
The torque rods hold the rear axles in place, main- 1. If necessary, power wash the rear suspension to
taining both axle alignment and pinion nose angle. remove road dirt accumulation.
When servicing the torque rods, it is good practice to
remove and install them one at a time to avoid the ment.
possibility of mixing them up and affecting the align-
ment or pinion nose angle. 3. Relieve all drive axle brake or wind-up loads by
Several different styles of torque rods and bushing the spring or driveline brakes.
spigots exist. On the 40,000 lb version of the 800
Series suspension, the torque rods have tubular steel 4. Raise the rear of the vehicle to remove all weight
bodies and the upper rods do not cross over one an- from the rear axles, and place safety stands
other. On the 46,000 and 50,000 lb versions, the under the frame to secure the vehicle in its
lower torque rods have tubular steel bodies, but the raised position.
upper torque rods are made of "I-beam" shaped duc- 5. Working on one torque rod at a time, remove the
tile iron. These upper torque rods do cross over one torque rod bolts and spigot caps. Discard the
another. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
11/07/95 f320445
Fig. 1, Torque Rod Arrangement, 40,000 lb Capacity Suspension
Removal bolts. Set the spigot caps aside for cleaning and
inspection.
NOTE: Inspect torque rod bushings for free play Remove the torque rods by prying between the
before removing the torque rods. Refer to Sub- torque rod eye and the spigot base or frame
ject 160 for torque rod bushing inspection infor- bracket.
mation. NOTE: At the axle housing towers, pry off the
tower cap to access the torque rod fasteners.

01/11/96 f320447
Fig. 2, Torque Rod Arrangement, 46,000 and 50,000 lb Capacity Suspensions
6. Replace worn or damaged bushings following the

A
7. Inspect the spigots for damage, severe corro-
sion, or extensive wear. Replace damaged or
A
severely corroded spigots. To determine whether
or not a spigot is worn enough to warrant re-
placement, refer to Fig. 3 and Table 1.
The smaller of the two measurements should be
used as the spigot diameter.
8. On vehicles equipped with Size #0 spigots, care-
fully inspect the spigot cap bolt head contact
area for wear. A worn cap must be replaced to
avoid fastener loosening. See Fig. 4.
Installation
1. Check the torque rod bushings to make sure
they are properly installed. They must be cen-
tered within the torque rod eye. See Fig. 5. 10/24/95 f320446
A. Measure outside diameter at two locations, 90

IMPORTANT: Never use any mineral based oils, degrees apart.
greases, jellies, or solvent soaps to aid in the
assembly of rubber suspension parts. Use only Fig. 3, Spigot Measurement Points

A
A
A 1
2
10/26/95 f320449
A. The amount of rubber protruding from each side of
the torque rod eye must be equal.
1. Torque Rod Bushing 2. Torque Rod Eye
B
Fig. 5, Torque Rod Bushing Protrusion
heavy soft-faced mallet to drive the torque rod

10/25/95 f320448
into position until the bushing contacts the spigot
bottom face.
A. The bolt head contact area is the critical wear area.
B. Wear from the bolt head must not exceed 0.005" in NOTE: For easier installation, alternate mallet
depth blows between ends of the torque rod to drive it
onto the spigots evenly.
Fig. 4, Size #0 Spigot Cap Inspection Areas
4. Install the spigot caps.
lubricants specifically designed for use with rub- 5. Install and tighten the torque rod bushing
ber compounds. through-bolts 135 lbf·ft (183 N·m).
2. Lubricate the outside of the spigots and the in- 6. Remove the safety stands from under the ve-
side of the rubber bushings with a generous hicle, then lower the vehicle.
amount of rubber lubricant such as Rimslip® or
equivalent. 7. Remove the chocks from the tires.
3. Push the torque rod into position on its spigots.
After the torque rod is partially installed, use a
Minimum Spigot Minimum Spigot

Spigot Spigot
Useage Diameter With Diameter With
Size Part No.
Standard Bushing Oversize Bushing
#0 700096 40,000 lb capacity—vehicles built before 1/93 2.350 in (59.69 mm) 2.320 in (58.93 mm)
#1 800200 40,000 lb capacity—vehicles built from 1/93 2.350 in (59.69 mm) 2.320 in (58.93 mm)
#2 800021 46,000 & 50,000 lb capacity—all 2.530 in (64.26 mm) 2.500 in (63.50 mm)
Table 1, Spigot Wear Limits

Torque Rod Bushing Inspection and Replacement
Inspection ous amount of rubber lubricant, such as Rimslip®

or equivalent.
1. If necessary, power wash the upper and lower 6. Place the torque rod on a solid level floor with an
torque rods to remove road dirt accumulation. open end of the eye facing upward. Position a
lubricated bushing on the eye, making sure that
the tapered shoulder of the bushing is centered
ment.
on the eye. See Fig. 1.
3. Relieve all drive axle brake or wind-up loads by
the spring or driveline brakes. 1
4. Using your hands only, attempt to move the

torque rod ends, checking for free play. Some
movement as the bushings "give" is normal, but
only free play is cause for bushing replacement.
NOTE: Never use a lever or pry bar to check for
torque rod bushing free play. To do so may re-
sult in unnecessary bushing replacement.
2
5. If free play is detected, replace the bushing as 10/26/95 f320450
described below. 1. Torque Rod Bushing 2. Torque Rod Eye
Fig. 1, Torque Rod Bushing Installation

Replacement
7. Using a heavy, soft-faced mallet, strike the bush-
1. Remove the torque rod containing the worn out ing squarely to drive it into the torque rod eye.
bushing. Refer to Subject 150, if necessary. Then, flip the torque rod over 180 degrees and
tap on the torque rod shaft with the mallet while
NOTE: Remove only one torque rod at a time to the bushing rests on the floor.
avoid mixing-up torque rod positions.
NOTE: If available, a small press may be used
2. Place the torque rod on the floor or a workbench instead of a mallet for bushing installation.
with a bushing open end facing upward. Push
the tip of a large screwdriver down between the 8. The bushing is completely installed when it is
torque rod eye and the bushing and pry out the centered within the torque rod eye. See Fig. 2.
bushing. Discard removed bushings. 9. Install the re-bushed torque rod. Refer to Sub-
3. Use a wire brush and/or scraper to clean the ject 150, if necessary.
torque rod eyes, removing all rust, scale, and
rubber accumulations.
4. Inspect the torque rod eyes looking for cracks,
distortion, or severe corrosion. Replace torque
rods with damaged bushing eyes.
IMPORTANT: Never use any mineral based oils,
greases, jellies, or solvent soaps to aid in the
assembly of rubber suspension parts. Use only
lubricants specifically designed for use with rub-
ber compounds.
5. Lubricate both the inside of the torque rod eye
and the outside of the new bushing with a gener-

Torque Rod Bushing Inspection and Replacement
A
A
2
10/26/95 f320449
A. The amount of rubber protruding from each side of
the torque rod eye must be equal .
1. Torque Rod Bushing 2. Torque Rod Eye
Fig. 2, Torque Rod Bushing Protrusion

On the Chalmers 800 Series Rear Suspension, the 3. Relieve drive axle brake or wind-up loads by
lower torque rods provide the only means for adjust- placing the transmission in neutral and releasing
ing rear axle alignment. The upper torque rods play the brakes.
no part in the axle alignment process.
4. Using a straightedge and a tape measure, deter-
The lower torque rod bodies consist of steel tubes, mine the amount of adjustment needed to align
with fine threads cut into the ends of the tube. Left- the forward-rear axle at right angles to the frame.
hand threads are cut into one end of the tube, right- For instructions, see Group 35. The difference in
hand threads into the other end. Therefore, by simply measurements between the sides of the vehicle
twisting the tube body while restraining the ends, the is the approximate amount that the trailing end of
effective length of the tube is changed. the forward-rear axle will have to be brought for-
ward, or the leading end will have to be moved
Two different types of torque rod ends are used. On back to align it at a right angle to the frame. See
#0 and #1 sizes, two 1/2-inch clamp bolts secure the Fig. 2.
rod ends to the tube. On the #2 size, a single 5/8-
inch bolt is used. See Fig. 1. If the forward-rear axle alignment is within speci-
fications, go to the step that begins "Using a
center-point bar, determine...".
1
B C
1 2 3
2
C B
12/08/94 f320005a
A. Adjust here.
B. Leading End
C. Trailing End
1. Front Axle
10/16/95 f320439 2. Forward Rear Axle
1. #0/#1 Joint 2. #2 Joint 3. Rearmost Axle
Fig. 1, Adjustable Torque Rod Ends Fig. 2, Tandem Axle, Shown Out of Alignment
Adjustment 5. On the side of the vehicle that is to be adjusted

forward or rearward, loosen the torque rod end
1. Ensure that the torque rod bushings are in a fully pinch bolts at both ends of the torque rod.
relaxed, neutral state by slowly moving the ve- NOTE: If the pinch bolts are badly corroded or
hicle back and forth a few times. Apply the ser- otherwise damaged, remove and discard them.
vice brakes, not the parking brakes. Install new Chalmers fasteners.
2. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move- 6. Attach a pipe wrench to the tube body (chain
ment. type preferred) and rotate the tube to shorten or

lengthen the torque rod. Continue to rotate the 11.2 Tighten 5/8-inch UNC bolts on #2 joints
tube until the forward-rear axle is square to the 135 lbf·ft (183 N·m).
frame.
12. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
NOTE: If the torque rod tube is difficult to rotate, Remove the chocks from the front tires.
apply penetrating oil to the tube threads. If this 13. Using the center-point bar, check the rearmost
does not help, remove the pinch bolts and drive axle alignment. If alignment is not within specifi-
wedges between the eye lugs to relieve the cations, repeat the applicable steps above.
clamping effect.
7. When the forward-rear axle is square with the CAUTION
frame, tighten the pinch bolts.
7.1 Tighten 1/2-inch UNC bolts on #0 and #1 teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
joints 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m). age to the suspension.
7.2 Tighten 5/8-inch UNC bolts on #2 joints IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
135 lbf·ft (183 N·m). periodic torquing. For suspension component
8. Using a center-point bar, determine the differ- inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
ence between the forward-rear and the rearmost vals and instructions, see Group 32 of the
axles’ center-to-center measurements on each Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual.
side of the vehicle. For instructions, see
Group 35. This difference is the approximate
distance that the leading end of the rearmost
axle will have to be adjusted rearward, or that
the trailing end will have to be adjusted forward,
to align it at a right angle to the frame, and to
align it parallel to the forward-rear axle. See
Fig. 2.
9. On the side of the vehicle that is to be adjusted
forward or rearward, loosen the torque rod end
pinch bolts at both ends of the torque rod.
NOTE: If the pinch bolts are badly corroded or
otherwise damaged, remove and discard them.
Install new Chalmers fasteners.
10. Attach a pipe wrench to the tube body (chain
type preferred) and rotate the tube to shorten or
lengthen the torque rod. Continue to rotate the
tube until the rearmost axle is square to the
frame.
NOTE: If the torque rod tube is difficult to rotate,
apply penetrating oil to the tube threads. If this
does not help, remove the pinch bolts and drive
wedges between the eye lugs to relieve the
clamping effect.
11. When the rearmost axle is square with the
frame, tighten the pinch bolts.
11.1 Tighten 1/2-inch UNC bolts on #0 and #1
joints 65 lbf·ft (88 N·m).

Specifications
Description Bolt Size IFI Grade Torque lbf·ft (N·m)

Beam Spring Plate Bolt 3/8 UNC 8 35 (47)
Torque Rod End Through Bolts 5/8 UNC 8 135 (183)
Shock Absorber (Beam-Mounted) Bolt 3/4 8 170 (230)
Shock Absorber (Axle-Mounted) Nut 7/8 G 270 (366)
#0/#1 Torque Rod End Pinch Bolts 1/2 UNC 8 65 (88)
#2 Torque Rod End Pinch Bolts 5/8 UNC 8 135 (183)
Table 1, Fastener Torques, 800 Series Suspension

Rear Suspension, Reyco® 79KB 32.11
General Description

The Reyco 79KB suspension uses a full–floating
spring design. Semi-elliptical spring assemblies, or
optional parabolic springs, are attached to the axles
with U–bolt assemblies. The spring ends ride in
hangers that are mounted on the frame rails. Adjust-
able torque rods are attached to the front frame
hanger and axle seat to hold the axle in alignment.
1 6
7
8
2 5
3
4
03/11/96 f320489
1. Forward Spring Hanger 4. Anti-Sway Bar End–Link 6. Rear Spring Hanger

2. Torque Rod (optional) 7. Shock Absorber
3. Axle 5. Anti–Sway Bar (optional) 8. Leaf Spring
Fig. 1, Reyco 79KB Suspension

Removal (See Fig. 1) 2. Raise the opposite end of the torque rod on the
lower axle mounting plate.
There are two torque rods installed on the Reyco 3. Install a bolt on the torque rod
79KB suspension. The curb (right) side torque rod is
not adjustable (rigid). The left (driver’s) side torque 4. Tighten the torque rod locknuts 400 to 450 lbf·ft
rod is adjustable to allow proper axle alignment. (540 to 610 N·m).
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the front 5. Raise the axle and remove the jack stands.
tires. Lower the axle to the ground.
2. Use a lifting device and raise the rear of the trac- 6. Raise the rear of the vehicle and remove the
tor until the rear tires are elevated above the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
ground. Place jack stands under the frame rails 7. Check the axle alignment. For instructions, see
to unload the suspension, and lower the lifting Group 35. If necessary, adjust the rear axle
device until only the jack stands are supporting alignment, using the instructions in Subject 130.
the vehicle weight.
3. Place the lifting device under the axle and raise
the axle to unload the torque rod. Place jack
stands under the axle.
4. Remove the two torque rod bolts and nuts, and
remove the torque rod. See Fig. 1.
1 2
1
01/03/96 f320490
1. Torque Rod Bolt 2. Torque Rod
Fig. 1, Reyco 79KB Torque Rod

1. Place the torque rod on the forward frame han-
gar and install a torque rod bolt to hold it in
place.


WARNING WARNING
Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged Leaf spring assemblies weigh approximately 100
leaf spring assembly; replace the complete to 190 lbs (45 to 86 kg). Do not attempt to install
spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or a leaf spring assembly without assistance. Per-
breaks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to sonal injury and property damage may result.
damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring 1. With assistance, position the leaf spring assem-
is safe. Failure to replace a damaged spring as- bly on the axle.
2. Place the front of the leaf spring assembly
through the hanger, then place the rear of the
leaf spring assembly through the rear hanger.
WARNING 3. Install the projection on the center of the leaf
Leaf spring assemblies weigh approximately 100 spring assembly on the spring seat.
to 190 lbs (45 to 86 kg). Do not attempt to remove 4. Install the U-bolt pad on the leaf spring assem-
a leaf spring assembly without assistance. Per- bly.
sonal injury and property damage may result.
5. Install the U-bolts over the U-bolt pad and axle
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the tube. Insert the U-bolts through the axle clamp,
parking brakes and chock the front tires. then install the U-bolt washers and locknuts.
Tighten the U-bolt nuts in stages in a diagonal
2. Raise the frame so that all weight is removed pattern as described in Specifications 400.
from the leaf springs, then support the frame with
safety stands. Raise the rear axle until the spring 6. Install the spring retainer bolts, rollers, and lock-
no longer contacts the spring retainer rollers, nuts. Tighten the spring retaining bolt locknuts 60
then support the axle with safety stands. Make to 80 lbf·ft (85 to 110 N·m).
sure the stands will securely support the weight 7. Move the torque rod into position with the lower
of the axles and frame. To gain easy access to axle mounting plate.
the suspension system, remove the wheel as-
sembly; see Group 40 for instructions. 8. Install the torque rod mounting bolt and locknut.
Tighten the locknut 350 to 400 lbf·ft (475 to 545
3. Remove the U-bolt locknuts and washers (see N·m).
Fig. 1. Remove the U-bolt mounting plate. Re-
move the U-bolts , and the upper axle mounting 9. Install the wheel assembly. See Group 40 for
plate. instructions.
4. Remove the spring retaining bolts, spring rollers, 10. Raise the axle assembly, remove the safety
and nuts. stands and lower the axle to the ground.
5. Use a pry tool to lift the leaf spring assembly off 11. Raise the vehicle frame, remove the safety
of the lower mounting plate. stands from under the frame and lower the ve-
hicle.
NOTE: There is a projection at the center of the
leaf spring assembly to locate the spring.
CAUTION
6. With assistance, carefully move the leaf spring
assembly forward to clear the rear hanger. Raise Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
the rear of the leaf spring assembly and move it teners can result in abnormal tire wear and dam-
rearward to clear the front hanger. Remove the age to the springs, spring brackets, and frame
leaf spring from the vehicle. rail.

32.11 Rear Suspension, Reyco® 79KB

vals and instructions, see Group 32 of the
Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual.
12. Check the axle alignment. For instructions, see
Group 35 in this manual. If necessary, adjust the
rear axle alignment, using the instructions in
Subject 130.
10 9 4
8
1
2
3
4
7
5
6
03/11/96 5 f320483
1. Forward Hanger Spring Retainer 5. U–Bolt Locknut 8. Rear Hanger Spring Retainer
Bolt 6. Axle Clamp Bolt
2. Leaf Spring 7. Anti–Sway Bar End Link 9. U-Bolt Pad
3. Torque Rod Bolt (optional) 10. Spring Seat
4. U–Bolt
Fig. 1, Reyco 79KB Leaf Spring Replacement

Spring Hanger Replacement

1 6
2
2
5
01/03/96 f320484
1. Forward Spring Hanger 4. Anti-Sway Bar End Link (optional)

2. Spring Retainer Bolt 5. Anti-Sway Bar Mounting Bracket (optional)
3. Torque Rod Mounting Bolt 6. Rear Spring Hanger
Fig. 1, Reyco 79KB Frame Hanger Components for Removal
1
WARNING
Replace worn, cracked, or damaged spring hang- 2 2
ers. Failure to do so could result in bracket
breakage, possibly leading to loss of vehicle con- 2 2
trol and resulting in personal injury or property
damage.
2 2
parking brakes, and chock the front tires.
2. Place a lifting device under the vehicle frame. Lift
the frame until the leaf spring assemblies are no 3
longer in contact with the hangers, and support
the frame with safety stands.
3. Remove the torque rod mounting bolt located on 4
01/04/96 f320485
the forward hanger. See Fig. 2, Ref. 4.
1. Forward Spring Hanger
4. Remove the spring retainer bolt from the forward 2. Forward Spring Hanger Mounting Bolt
hanger. See Fig. 2, Ref. 3. 3. Spring Retainer Bolt
5. Remove the six hanger mounting bolts and nuts. 4. Torque Rod Mounting Bolt
See Fig. 2, Ref. 2.
Fig. 2, Reyco 79KB Forward Spring Hanger
6. Remove the forward hanger from the frame rail.
7. Remove the spring retainer bolt from the rear
hanger. See Fig. 3, Ref. 3.

8. Remove the anti-sway bar end links, if equipped. 3. Tighten the rear spring hanger mounting bolts
See Fig. 1, Ref. 4. 190 lbf·ft (258 N·m).
9. Remove the lower spring hanger mounting bolts 4. Install the anti-sway bar end link and bushings, if
(see Fig. 3, Ref. 2) and remove the anti-sway equipped. Tighten the end link capscrew. See
bar mounting bracket, if equipped. See Fig. 1, Group 00 of this manual for proper torque speci-
Ref. 5. fications.
10. Remove the upper spring hanger mounting bolts 5. Install the spring retainer bolt, roller, and nut.
(see Fig. 3, Ref. 2) and remove the rear hanger. Tighten the spring retainer bolt 60 to 80 lbf·ft (85
to 110 N·m).
1 6. Install the forward spring hanger on the frame
rail, then install the mounting bolts. Tighten the
2 2
mounting bolts 190 lbf·ft (258 N·m).
7. Install the torque rod mounting bolt. Tighten the
torque rod mounting bolt 350 to 400 lbf·ft (475 to
545 N·m).
2 2 8. Install the spring retainer bolt, roller, and nut.
Tighten the spring retainer bolt 60 to 80 lbf·ft (85
to 110 N·m).
9. Raise the vehicle frame with a lifting device, and
remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle to
01/04/96
3 f320486 the ground.
1. Rear Spring Hanger 10. Remove the wheel chocks.
2. Spring Hanger Mounting Bolt
3. Spring Retainer Bolt
Fig. 3, Reyco 79KB Rear Spring Hanger
CAUTION
rail.
Installation
1. Install the rear spring hanger on the frame rail,
then install the two upper mounting bolts.
2. If equipped, position the anti-sway bar mounting
bracket over the lower bolt holes on the rear
spring hanger, then install the two lower mount-
ing bolts.

Adjustment
CAUTION
rail.
1 1
IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require 2 A
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Move the
vehicle slowly back and forth several times with-
out using the brakes to free all of the suspension D C
joints. Shut down the engine. Do not apply the
parking brakes.
NOTE: Check that the leaf springs are not bind-
ing in the frame hangars. Make sure that the
U-bolts and torque rod bolts are torqued to
specification, and all of the bushings are in good B
condition. 01/04/96 f320487
3. Position an 8 ft (2-1/2 m) length of bar stock, or A. Trailing Edge

angle iron across the frame. Square the bar B. Drive Axle Centerline
across the frame using a carpenter’s square, and C. Fixed Torque Rod Side
D. Adjustable Torque Rod Side
clamp it in place on the frame rail. See Fig. 1,
Ref. 2. 1. Frame Rail 2. Bar Stock
NOTE: Position the bar as far forward of the Fig. 1, Measuring Axle Alignment
drive axle as possible. 8. Turn until the measurement on both sides of the
4. Start on the fixed (right) torque rod side. Mea- axle are within 1/8-inch, then tighten the torque
sure the distance from the bar stock to the cen- rod clamp bolts 125 to 150 lbf·ft (170 to 203
terline of the drive axle. Repeat the same proce- N·m).
dure on the adjustable (left) torque rod side. See 9. Remove the wheel chocks and drive the vehicle
Fig. 1, Ref. C and D. through a short series of turns.
5. If the distance varies more than 1/8-inch, align- 10. Recheck the alignment.
ment is necessary.
6. Loosen the torque rod clamp bolts. See Fig. 2,
Ref. 1.
7. Use a pipe wrench or other suitable tool and
slowly turn the torque rod.

2
1
1
01/04/96 f320488
1. Torque Rod Clamp Bolt 2. Torque Rod Adjustment Location

Fig. 2, Adjustable Torque Rod

Specifications
Reyco 79KB Torque Values

Size Torque
Description
in. lbf·ft (N·m)
Forward Spring Hanger 5/8 190 (258)
Rear Spring Hanger 5/8 190 (258)
Stage 2: 60 (81) *
Axle U-Bolt High Nuts 7/8–14 Stage 3: 200 (271) *
Stage 4: 420 to 500 (571 to 680)
*
Torque Rod Mounting Bolts 7/8 400 to 450 (545 to 615)

Torque Rod Clamp Nuts 5/8 125 to 150 (170 to 203)
Spring Retainer Bolts 1/2 60 to 80 (85 to 110)
Table 1, Reyco 79KB Torque Values
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783

Rear Suspension, Watson & Chalin® PusherTag 32.12
General Description
General Description
The Watson and Chalin SL series steerable axle lift
suspension ( Fig. 1) uses a full-floating air spring
design. Two air springs are attached to a trailing arm
assembly. One air spring controls the suspension
riding height, depending on load requirements, and
the other air spring is used to lift the axle assembly
when not in use. The trailing arm and air springs are
attached to the frame rail with an upper torque rod,
and a fastener that rides on a rubber bushing. Weld
collars locate the suspension on the frame and hold
the axle in alignment.

32.12 Rear Suspension, Watson & Chalin® PusherTag
General Description
4
3 5
2
1
12 6
26 4
4
5
8
5
9
10
12
14
16
3
2
17
5
19 11
18 10
23 15
22
23 20
22
24 21
10/16/96 f320482
1. Side Rail Assembly 9. Lower Air-Spring Plate 17. 3/4-Inch Clevis Pin
2. 3/4-Inch Lockwasher 10. 3/8-Inch UNF Hexnut 18. 1/2-Inch UNC Hexnut
3. 3/4-Inch UNF Hexnut 11. Axle Pad Assembly 19. 1/2-Inch Lockwasher
4. 3/8 x 1-1/8 Inch Capscrew 12. Air Fitting 20. Trailing Arm
5. 3/8-Inch Lockwasher 13. Flatwasher 21. 1-1/8-Inch Locknut
6. Upper Air-Spring Plate 14. Axle Lift-Air Spring 22. Weld Collar
7. Load-Bearing Air Spring 15. Cotter Pin 23. Washer
8. 3/8-Inch UNC x 1 Inch Capscrew 16. Lift Plate 24. Bushing
Fig. 1, Air Spring Replacement, Exploded View

Upper Torque Rod Removal and Installation

1 2
7
5
6
4
10/16/96 f320527
1. Frame Rail 4. Trailing Arm 7. Load-Bearing Air Spring
2. Side Rail Assembly 5. Torque Rod 8. Upper Air-Spring Mounting Plate
3. Axle-Lift Air Spring 6. Axle Pad Assembly
Fig. 1, Watson and Chalin SL Series Steerable Axle Lift Suspension

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the 1. If you are replacing the upper torque rod, mea-
parking brakes, and chock the tires. sure the length of the old upper torque rod.
2. Completely drain all of the air from the air sys- 2. Duplicate the measurement, as closely as pos-
tem. The air pressure gauge should read 0 psi (0 sible, on the new upper torque rod.
kPa).
3. Install the upper torque rod onto the frame rail
and axle assembly using the two capscrews, four
WARNING washers, and two locknuts. Do not tighten the
upper torque rod clamps.
WARNING: Failure to drain the air system could
result in personal injury, or property damage. Use a pipe wrench to align the upper torque rod
to the frame hanger and the axle pad assembly.
NOTE: If the upper torque rod has been previ-
ously serviced, remove the two mounting cap- 4. Tighten the capscrew at the frame rail 600 lbf·ft
screws, two nuts, and four washers that attach (814 N·m).
the upper torque rod to the frame rail and axle 5. Tighten the capscrew at the axle assembly 1000
assembly. lbf·ft (1356 N·m).
3. Remove the two huck bolts, two huck collars, 6. Connect a magnetic protractor to the steerable
and four washers that attach the upper torque axle.
rod to the frame rail and axle assembly. 7. Position the protractor on the axle pad assembly,
4. Remove the upper torque rod from the vehicle. so it is even with the centerline of the axle and
the axle spindle center. See Fig. 2, Ref. 2.

Upper Torque Rod Removal and Installation
8. Move the protractor to position the centerline of

the axle with the centerline of the upper torque
rod capscrew. See Fig. 2, Ref. 6.
9. Record the caster setting. See Fig. 2, Ref. A.
A
1 B
2
3
5
10/16/96 4 f320494
A. Centerline of Axle
B. Caster Setting
C. Axle Spindle Center
1. Pipe Wrench
2. Huck Collar
3. Upper Torque Rod Clamp
4. Steerable Axle
5. Axle Seat Capscrew
Fig. 2, Watson & Chalin SL Series Suspension,

Adjusting Caster
NOTE: Check both wheels for proper caster set-

tings.
Caster should be set at 5° to 6° positive. Caster
cannot be less than 5° positive.
10. If the caster setting is incorrect, adjust by turning
the upper torque rod clockwise, or counterclock-
wise to achieve the proper caster setting. See
Fig. 2, Ref. 1.
11. Tighten the upper torque rod clamps 600 lbf·ft
(814 N·m).
12. Check the toe-in of the axle, using instructions
found in Group 33.

Air Spring Inspection and Replacement
Inspection (See Fig. 1) Replacement (See Fig. 2)

Check the air springs periodically to ensure that
there is no dry-rot, cracking, deformities, or other
WARNING
damage that could impede the performance of the WARNING: Before attempting to remove the air
vehicle. Refer to the driver’s manual for additional springs, be sure that all of the air has been
information regarding daily, pre-trip inspections of the drained from the air system. The air spring will
air springs. expand, suddenly, when removed from its mount
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the if the air system is not fully drained and could
parking brakes, and chock the tires. result in personal injury, or property damage.
2. Check the air bags for cracks, deformities, dry- Axle Lift Air Spring
rotting, or other damage. Replace the air bags as
needed. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the
parking brakes, and chock the wheels.
3. Check for obstructions that could cause a breach
of the air bag integrity. Reposition any compo- 2. Completely drain all of the air from the air sys-
nent that is making contact with the air spring. tem. The air pressure gauges should read 0 psi
(0 kPa).
4. Check that the air system is fully charged, then
check the operation of the axle lift air spring. If 3. Use a lifting device and elevate the steerable
the axle lift air springs do not operate properly, axle.
refer to Subject 300 for troubleshooting informa-
tion. 4. Place jack stands under the axle beam.
5. Check the air lines for cracks, deformities, or 5. Remove the cotter pin, washer, and clevis pin
leaking. Replace the air lines as needed. from the lift plate.
1 2
7
5
6
4
10/16/96 f320527
1. Frame Rail 4. Trailing Arm 7. Load-Bearing Air Spring
2. Side Rail Assembly 5. Torque Rod 8. Upper Air-Spring Mounting Plate
3. Axle-Lift Air Spring 6. Axle Pad Assembly
Fig. 1, Watson & Chalin SL Series Steerable Axle Lift Suspension

4
3 5
2
1
12 6
26 4
4
5
8
5
9
10
12
14
16
3
2
17
5
19 11
18 10
23 15
22
23 20
22
24 21
10/16/96 f320482
1. Side Rail Assembly 9. Lower Air-Spring Plate 17. 3/4-Inch Clevis Pin
2. 3/4-Inch Lockwasher 10. 3/8-Inch UNF Hexnut 18. 1/2-Inch UNC Hexnut
3. 3/4-Inch UNF Hexnut 11. Axle Pad Assembly 19. 1/2-Inch Lockwasher
4. 3/8 x 1-1/8 Inch Capscrew 12. Air Fitting 20. Trailing Arm
5. 3/8-Inch Lockwasher 13. Flatwasher 21. 1-1/8-Inch Locknut
6. Upper Air-Spring Plate 14. Axle Lift-Air Spring 22. Weld Collar
7. Load-Bearing Air Spring 15. Cotter Pin 23. Washer
8. 3/8-Inch UNC x 1 Inch Capscrew 16. Lift Plate 24. Bushing
Fig. 2, Air Spring Replacement, Exploded View

6. Remove the air line and fitting from the axle lift 7. Remove the capscrew, two washers, two wash-
air spring. ers, and one locknut then lower the trailing arm.

8. Remove the 3/4-inch hexnut and washer; then 5. Remove the 3/8-inch capscrew and lockwasher
remove the axle lift air spring. (Refs. 4 and 5) from the upper air-spring plate.
9. Remove the 1/2-inch hexnut and lockwasher 6. Remove three 3/8-inch capscrews, hexnuts, and
from the lift plate; then separate the axle-lift air three lockwashers (Refs. 4, 5 and 10) from the
spring (Ref. 14). rear of the axle pad assembly.
10. Install the axle-lift air spring on the lift plate. In- 7. Place a pry tool between the upper air-spring
stall the 1/2-inch hexnut and lockwasher on the plate and the load bearing air spring.
lift plate. Tighten the hexnut 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m).
8. Pull down on the pry tool to separate the air
11. Install the new axle-lift air spring, lockwasher, spring from the mounting plate, and remove the
and 3/4-inch hexnut on the frame hanger. air spring from the vehicle.
Tighten the hexnut 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m).
9. Remove two 3/8-inch capscrews and two lock-
12. Raise the trailing arm and insert the clevis pin washers that secure the lower air-spring plate to
through the lift plate; then insert and lock a new the air spring. Separate the lower air-spring plate
cotter pin into the clevis pin. from the air spring.
13. Start the capscrew (Ref. 26) through the frame 10. Check the upper and lower air-spring plates for
hanger (Ref 1). Position the washers between signs of corrosion, cracks, or other damage. Re-
the frame hanger and the lower trailing arm and place any air-spring plate that appears damaged,
the trailing arm. Install the capscrew through the or excessively corroded.
frame hanger and the trailing arm. Install the
11. Install the lower air-spring plate on the air spring.
locknut and tighten it 1000 lbf·ft (1356 N·m).
12. Apply a light coating of Loctite® 242 to the
14. Install the air fittings and the air lines.
threads of the capscrews. Install the capscrews
15. Remove the jack stands. on the air spring and tighten 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
16. Start the engine and build up air pressure. 13. Install the air spring on the upper air-spring plate
and center the lower air-spring plate capscrew
17. Check for air leaks, and check axle lift operation. holes on the axle pad assembly.
18. Remove the chocks from the tires. 14. Install the three 3/8-inch capscrews, three lock-
washers, and three hexnuts on the lower air
Load Bearing Air Spring spring plate. Tighten the capscrews 15 lbf·ft (20
N·m).
WARNING 15. Install the 3/8-inch x 1-1/8 inch capscrew and
lockwasher on the upper air-spring plate. Tighten
WARNING: Before attempting to remove the air
the capscrew 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
springs, be sure that all of the air has been
drained from the air system. The air spring will 16. Install the 3/4-inch hexnut and lockwasher on the
expand suddenly when removed from its mount if upper air-spring plate. Tighten the hexnut 200
the air system is not fully drained. This could re- lbf·ft (271 N·m).
sult in personal injury or property damage.
17. Install the air fitting, then connect the air line to
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the the air springs.
parking brakes, and chock the tires.
18. Start the engine and build up air pressure. Check
2. Completely drain all of the air from the air sys- for air leaks and repair as needed. See Sub-
tem. The air pressure gauges should read 0 psi ject 300 for troubleshooting information.
(0 kPa).
19. Shut down the engine and remove the chocks
3. Remove the air line and fitting. from the tires.
4. Remove the 3/4-Inch hexnut and lockwasher
(Refs. 2 and 3) from the upper air-spring plate.

Ride Height Measurement and Load Capacity
Adjustment
IMPORTANT: It is the responsibility of the ve-

hicle operator to weigh the vehicle to get accu-
rate axle load capacity for the vehicle for legal 1
operation. The amount of air pressure supplied
to the lift axle load air spring will vary depending
on vehicle load.
C
Ride Height Measurement
A
Suspension ride height is defined as the distance
between the suspension mounting surface and the
spindle center of the auxiliary liftable axle.Suspen- 2 B
sion ride height must be calculated with the vehicle
in its loaded condition.
To check the ride height of the Watson & Chalin SL
series suspension, use the following formula: A 01/09/96 f320493
(loaded vehicle frame-to-ground) – B (loaded tire ra- A. Loaded Vehicle B. Loaded Tire Radius
dius) = C (Ride Height). See Fig. 1. Frame-to-Ground C. Ride Height
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the 1. Suspension Mounting Surface
2. Axle Spindle Center
parking brakes and chock the front tires.
2. Run the engine until pressure in the air brake Fig. 1, Watson & Chalin SL Series Suspension,
Calculating Ride Height
system exceeds 115 psi (792 kPa). Shut down
the engine.
3. Measure the loaded frame-to-ground measure-
ment; the distance from the bottom of the frame
rail to the ground, with the vehicle in a loaded
condition.
4. Measure the loaded tire radius; the distance from
the axle spindle center to the ground, with the
vehicle in a loaded condition.
5. Subtract the loaded tire radius from the loaded
frame-to-ground measurement to determine ride
height.
1 2 3
Load Capacity Adjustment

Load capacity can be adjusted by increasing or de-
creasing the air pressure to the lift air springs. The
amount of air pressure varies depending on vehicle 06/14/2005 f544614
load. See Specifications 400, for load-to-pressure 1. Frame Rail 3. Regulator
specifications. 2. Gauge
The air pressure to the lift air springs, which is indi-
Fig. 2, Pressure Regulator and Gauge
cated on the gauge located on the frame rail or in
the cab, is set by the pressure regulator. See Fig. 2.
Pressure is increased by turning the knob clockwise,
and it is reduced by turning the knob counterclock-
wise.

Air System Inspection
Inspection 7.2 Shift the transmission to reverse and

check the position of the auxiliary axle.
The Watson & Chalin SL series steerable-axle lift NOTE: When the shifter is placed in reverse,
suspension is operated from a control panel consist- the steering will lock in a straight-ahead po-
ing of an air pressure gauge, pressure regulator, and sition, and the axle will lift off the ground.
a double-pull, double-throw air valve. See Fig. 1.
8. If the axle does not lift, shut down the engine
The control panel is designed so the driver can regu- and use the following instructions.
late the load pressure in the air springs for the
proper, or desired load on the auxiliary axle. It is also 8.1 Turn the ignition key ON, but do not start
designed to lift the auxiliary axle to the UP position the engine.
when the vehicle load is empty, or the auxiliary axle
8.2 Disconnect the harness connector from
is not required.
the reverse lock-out solenoids.
Optionally, an automatic reverse lift can be installed
8.3 With a voltmeter, probe the harness side
to automatically lift the suspension when the vehicle
of the connector. There should be no volt-
is shifted into reverse. An automatic reverse lockout
age with the shifter in neutral or any for-
will automatically lock the steerable axle to prevent it
ward gear.
from turning when the vehicle is shifted to reverse.
See Fig. 2. 8.4 Do not start the engine. Move the shifter
into reverse, and recheck for voltage.
When the shifter is in reverse gear there
parking brakes, and chock the front tires.
should be 11 to 13 volts at the solenoid. If
2. Start the engine and build up air pressure in ex- no voltage is found, trace and correct a
cess of 80 psi (552 kPa). short to ground in circuit 120B.
9. Check the air springs for cuts, dry-rotting, defor-
WARNING mities, or other damage. Replace the air springs
as needed. Refer to Subject 110, for replace-
Maintain air pressure of 80 psi (552 kPa). Failure ment instructions.
to do so could result in brake failure if the sus-
pension system suffered an air loss. This could
result in personal injury or property damage.
3. Shut down the engine.
4. With a mixture of soap and water, coat the air
fitting on the load bearing air springs, axle lift air
springs, and at each air line junction.
5. If an air leak exists, air bubbles will form around
the area where the leak originated. Repair or re-
place any leaking air line, fitting, or junction as
needed.
6. Inspect the air supply tank for excessive corro-
sion, dents, or other damage that could weaken
the tank. Replace any air supply tank that’s dam-
aged.
7. On vehicles equipped with an automatic reverse
lift, check the solenoids for proper operation.
7.1 Start the engine and lower the auxiliary
axle suspension.

7
8
4
3 4
1 2
2 5
2
2
6
6
2
2
2
4 5
3 4
01/09/96 f320496
1. Control Panel 4. NPT Port 7. Air Supply Tank
2. Air Line 5. Load-Bearing Air Spring 8. Brake-Protection Valve
3. Axle-Lift Air Spring 6. Quick-Release Valve (junction)
Fig. 1, Watson and Chalin Suspension with Standard Air Control

3 3
1
10
8
2 5
3
4 5
3
3 6
3
9
7
7
3
3
3
5 6
4 5
01/09/96 f320495
1. Air Supply Tank 5. NPT Port 8. Electric Solenoid Valve
2. Control Panel 6. Load-Bearing Air Spring 9. Pilot Air Valve
3. Air Line 7. Quick-Release Valve (junction) 10. Brake-Protection Valve
4. Axle-Lift Air Spring
Fig. 2, Watson and Chalin Suspension with Automatic Reverse Lockout

Troubleshooting
Problem–Not Getting the Desired Load on Steerable Axle

Problem–Not Getting the Desired Load on Steerable Axle
Incorrect air pressure to load the air springs. Increase or decrease air pressure at regulator valve.
Air control system not properly installed. Check piping of air system.
Mounted too high. Shim axle area. May require lower trailing arm replacement.
Problem–Insufficient Air Pressure to Steerable Axle System

Problem–Insufficient Air Pressure to Steerable Axle System
Damaged brake protection valve or air
Replace brake protection valve and check air compressor.
compressor.
Problem–Steerable Axle Not Getting the Correct Lift

Problem–Steerable Axle Not Getting the Correct Lift
Axle lift air springs not getting proper air
Check system pressure, and check air system piping.
pressure.
Interference with chassis, driveline, or other
Check for interference, and correct as needed.
chassis components.
Unit not properly installed. Check installation.
Lower trailing arm being restricted from full
Contact Watson & Chalin.
retraction.
Problem–Steerable Axle is Steering in Opposite Direction from Truck

Problem–Steerable Axle is Steering in Opposite Direction from Truck
Improper caster setting. Adjust caster.
Problem–Steerable Axle has Vertical Hop

Problem–Steerable Axle has Vertical Hop
Insufficient air pressure. Increase air pressure.
Excessive road vibration.
Install vertical shock kit.

Specifications
Load-to-Pressure Ratings for SL–1100–SR Wheel Caster and Toe-In Specifications

Suspension
Item Minimum Setting Variable
Load at Run Height Run Height Run Height
+1/32-Inch ±1/32-Inch
Ground 10 Inches 11 Inches 12 Inches Toe-In
lb (kg) psi (kPa) psi (kPa) psi (kPa) (+0.8 mm) (±0.8 mm)
5000 (2268) 29 (200) 31 (214) 34 (234) Table 3, Wheel Caster and Toe-In Specifications
6000 (2722) 37 (255) 39 (269) 43 (297)
7000 (3175) 44 (303) 47 (324) 52 (360)
8000 (3629) 52 (360) 56 (386) 60 (414)
9000 (4082) 60 (414) 64 (441) 69 (476)
10,000
67 (462) 72 (496) 78 (538)
(4536)
11,000 (4990) 75 (517) 80 (552) 87 (600)
12,000
82 (565) 88 (607) 96 (662)
(5443)
13,000
90 (621) 97 (669) 105 (724)
(5897)
14,000
98 (676) 105 (724) 114 (786)
(6350)
Table 1, Load-to-Pressure Ratings for Watson &
Chalin SL-1100-SR Suspension
Torque Specifications for Watson & Chalin SL–

1100–SR Suspension
Size Torque Rating
in. lbf·ft (N·m)
1/4 5 (7)
3/8 15 (20)
1/2 25 (35)
5/8 150 (205)
3/4 200 (270)
7/8 550 (745)
1 600 (815)
1-1/8 1000 (1355)
Table 2, Bolt Torque Specifications for Watson &
Chalin SL-1100-SR suspension
Wheel Caster and Toe-In Specifications

Item Minimum Setting Variable
Caster +5° +1°

Rear Suspension, Reyco® 179 32.13
General Description

The Reyco 179 suspension uses a four-point attach-
ment, two-spring suspension with variable rate spring
cams. It also incorporates torque rods. Semi-elliptical
spring assemblies are attached to the axles with
U–bolt assemblies. The spring ends ride in spring
hangers that are mounted on the frame rails. Adjust-
able torque rods are attached to the forward spring
hanger and the axle seat to hold the axle in align-
ment.
10 10 9
1 2 2 2
2
11 12 11
3 3
4
5 8
6 7
01/16/96 f320497
2. Spring Hanger Mounting Bolts
4. Torque Rod Mounting Bolt
5. Torque Rod
6. Spring Seat
7. U–Bolt Mounting Plate
8. Leaf Spring
9. Rear Spring Hanger
10. Spring Wear Pad
11. U-Bolt
12. U-Bolt Pad
Fig. 1, Reyco 179 Suspension

Removal (See Fig. 1) NOTE: Matching the length of the adjustable

torque rod to the rigid torque rod will reduce the
There are two torque rods installed on the Reyco amount of adjustment necessary to align the
179 suspension. The right side torque rod is rigid. rear axle.
The left side torque rod is adjustable to allow proper 2. Raise the opposite end of the torque rod, then
axle alignment. install it on the spring seat.
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the front 3. Tighten the torque-rod-end locknuts 600 to 625
tires. lbf·ft (814 to 847 N·m).
2. Use a lifting device and raise the rear of the trac- 4. Raise the axle and remove the jack stands.
tor until the rear tires are elevated above the Lower the axle to the ground.
ground. Place jack stands under the frame rails
to unload the suspension, and lower the lifting 5. Raise the rear of the vehicle and remove the
device until only the jack stands are supporting jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
the vehicle weight.
3. Place the lifting device under the axle and raise Group 35. If necessary, adjust the rear axle
the axle to unload the torque rod. Place jack alignment, using the instructions in Subject 130.
stands under the axle.
7. Tighten the torque rod clamp nuts 125 to 150
4. Remove the two torque rod bolts and nuts (Ref. lbf·ft (170 to 203 N·m).
1), and remove the torque rod.
8. Apply the parking brakes and remove the wheel
chocks.
1
2
1
01/16/96 f320498
1. Torque Rod Bolt
2. Torque Rod
Fig. 1, Reyco 179 Torque Rod

1. Place the torque rod on the forward frame
hanger and install a torque rod bolt to hold it in
place. On adjustable torque rods, match the
length of the right side (rigid) torque rod before
installing.


WARNING WARNING
Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged Leaf spring assemblies weigh approximately 290
leaf spring assembly; replace the complete to 350 lbs (132 to 159 kg). Do not attempt to in-
spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or stall a leaf spring assembly without assistance.
breaks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to Personal injury and property damage may result.
damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring 1. With assistance, position the leaf spring assem-
is safe. Failure to replace a damaged spring as- bly on the axle.
2. Place the front of the leaf spring assembly
through the frame hanger, then place the rear of
the leaf spring assembly through the rear frame
WARNING hanger.
Leaf spring assemblies weigh approximately 290 3. Locate the projection on the center of the leaf
to 350 lbs (132 to 159 kg). Do not attempt to re- spring assembly into the bore on the lower axle
move a leaf spring assembly without assistance. mounting plate.
Personal injury and property damage may result. 4. Install the U-bolt pad on the leaf spring assem-
bly.
parking brakes and chock the front tires. 5. Install the U-bolts; then install the U-bolt washers
and high nuts. Tighten the U-bolt nuts in stages
2. Raise the frame so that all weight is removed in a diagonal pattern as described in Specifica-
from the leaf springs, then support the frame with tions 400.
safety stands. Raise the rear axle until the spring
no longer contacts the spring retainer rollers, 6. Install the spring retainer bolts, rollers, and lock-
then support the axle with safety stands. Make nuts. Tighten the spring retaining bolt locknuts 60
sure the stands will securely support the weight to 80 lbf·ft (85 to 110 N·m).
of the axles and frame. To gain easy access to 7. Move the torque rod in position with the spring
the suspension system, remove the wheel as- seat.
sembly; see Group 40 for instructions.
8. Install the torque rod mounting bolt and locknut.
3. Remove the U-bolt locknuts and washers, and Tighten the locknut 600 to 625 lbf·ft (814 to 847
remove the bottom plate. N·m).
4. Remove the U-bolts, and the U-bolt pad. 9. Install the wheel assembly. See Group 40 for
5. Remove the spring retaining bolts, spring rollers, instructions.
and nuts. 10. Raise the axle assembly, remove the safety
6. Use a pry tool to lift the leaf spring assembly off stands and lower the axle to the ground.
of the spring seat. 11. Raise the vehicle frame, remove the safety
NOTE: There is a projection at the center of the stands from under the frame and lower the ve-
leaf spring assembly to locate the spring on the hicle.
U-bolt pad and the spring seat.
7. With assistance, carefully move the leaf spring
CAUTION
assembly forward to clear the rear frame hanger. Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
Raise the rear of the leaf spring assembly and teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
move it rearward to clear the front frame hanger. age to the springs, spring brackets, and frame
Remove the leaf spring from the vehicle. rail.

32.13 Rear Suspension, Reyco® 179

Group 35 of this manual. If necessary, adjust the
rear axle alignment, using the instructions in
Subject 130.
7 8 7
1 1
2
3 6
2
4 5 4
01/16/96 f320499
2. Torque Rod Mounting Bolt
3. Torque Rod
4. U-Bolt Locknut
5. Bottom Plate
6. Spring Seat
7. U-Bolt
8. U-Bolt Pad
Fig. 1, Reyco 179 Leaf Spring Replacement

Removal (See Fig. 1) 8. Remove the spring hanger mounting bolts (Ref.
2), and remove the rear spring hanger.
2
1 2 2 5 2 CAUTION
teners can result in abnormal tire wear and dam-
3 3 rail.
4 IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
01/16/96 f320500
2. Spring Hanger Mounting Bolts
Installation
4. Torque Rod Mounting Bolt 1. Install the rear spring hanger on the frame rail,
5. Rear Spring Hanger and install the two upper mounting bolts.
Fig. 1, Reyco 179 Spring Hanger Components for 2. Tighten the spring hanger mounting bolts 190
Removal lbf·ft (258 N·m).
3. Install the spring retainer bolt, roller, and nut.
WARNING Tighten the spring retainer bolt 60 to 80 lbf·ft (85
to 110 N·m).
Replace worn, cracked, or damaged spring brack-
ets. Failure to do so could result in breakage of 4. Install the front spring hanger on the frame rail,
the bracket, which could cause a loss of vehicle then install the mounting bolts. Tighten the rear
control, resulting in personal injury or property spring hanger mounting bolts 190 lbf·ft (258
damage. N·m).
5. Install the torque rod mounting bolt. Tighten the
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the torque rod mounting bolt 600 to 625 lbf·ft (814 to
parking brakes, and chock the front tires. 847 N·m).
2. Place a lifting device under the vehicle frame. Lift 6. Install the spring retainer bolt, roller, and nut.
the frame until the leaf spring assemblies are no Tighten the spring retainer bolt 60 to 80 lbf·ft (85
longer in contact with the spring hangers, and to 110 N·m).
support the frame with safety stands.
7. Raise the vehicle frame with a lifting device, and
3. Remove the torque rod mounting bolt located on remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle to
the forward spring hanger. the ground.
4. Remove the spring retainer bolt from the front 8. Remove the wheel chocks.
spring hanger.
5. Remove the six spring hanger mounting bolts
and nuts.
6. Remove the forward spring hanger from the
frame rail.
7. Remove the spring retainer bolt from the rear
spring hanger.

Adjustment (See Fig. 1)

CAUTION
teners can result in abnormal tire wear and dam-
age to the springs, spring hangers, and frame
rail.
1 1
IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require 2 A
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, move the
vehicle back and forth several times, and shut
down the engine. Move the vehicle slowly, with- D C
out using the brakes, to free all of the suspen-
sion joints. Do not apply the parking brakes.
NOTE: Check that the leaf springs are not bind-
ing in the spring hangers. Make sure that the
U-bolts and torque rod bolts are torqued to
specification, and all of the bushings are in good
condition. B
2. Chock the front tires. 01/04/96 f320487
3. Position an 8 ft (2-1/2 m) length of bar stock, or A. Trailing Edge

angle iron across the frame. Square the bar B. Drive Axle Centerline
across the frame using a carpenter’s square, and C. Fixed Torque Rod Side
D. Adjustable Torque Rod Side
clamp it in place on the frame rail (Ref. 2).
1. Frame Rail 2. Bar Stock
NOTE: Position the bar as far forward of the
drive axle as possible. Fig. 1, Measuring Axle Alignment
4. Start on the fixed (right) torque rod side. Mea- 9. Remove the wheel chocks and drive the vehicle
sure the distance from the bar stock to the cen- through a short series of turns.
terline of the drive axle. Repeat the same proce- 10. Recheck the alignment.
dure on the adjustable (left) torque rod side.
5. If the distance varies more than 1/8-inch, align-
ment is necessary.
6. Loosen the torque rod clamp bolts. See Fig. 2,
Ref. 1.
7. Use a pipe wrench or other suitable tool and
slowly turn the torque rod.
8. Turn until the measurement on both sides of the
axle are within 1/8-inch, and tighten the torque
rod clamp bolts 125 to 150 lbf·ft (170 to 203
N·m).

32.13 Rear Suspension, Reyco® 179
1 2
1
01/16/96 f320503
1. Torque Rod Clamp
2. Torque Rod
Fig. 2, Adjustable Torque Rod

Specifications
Reyco 179 Torque Values

Size Torque
Description
in. lbf·ft (N·m)
Forward Spring
5/8 190 (258)
Hanger
Rear Spring Hanger 5/8 190 (258)
Stage 2: 60 (81) *
U-bolt High Nuts 7/8–14 Stage 3: 200 (271) *
Stage 4: 420 to 500
(571 to 680) *
Torque Rod Mounting 600 to 625 (814 to
1
Bolts 847)
Torque Rod Clamp 125 to 150 (170 to
5/8
Nuts 203)
Spring Retainer Bolts 1/2 60 to 80 (85 to 110)
Table 1, Reyco 179 Torque Values
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783

Rear Suspension, Freightliner AirLiner Plus 32.14
General Information
General Information System Operation

The AirLiner Plus suspension is used on vehicles
Indicator Lights
with pusher or tag axles to improve traction perfor- ECAS FAIL: Lights for approximately two seconds
mance. when the ignition key is turned on, then the light
The system maintains an accurate leveling of frame goes out and remains out during vehicle operation. If
height through the use of the Rockwell WABCO the ECAS FAIL light does not go out after two sec-
ECAS (Electronically Controlled Air Suspension) sys- onds, or if it comes on during vehicle operation, there
tem with sensors and an electronic control unit. A is a failure in the ECAS system.
height sensor mounted between the frame and the LOAD X-FER: Lights for approximately two seconds
drive axle housing provides the ECAS control unit when the igition key is turned on, then the light goes
with frame height information. Other sensors provide out. Lights whenever there is a manual or an auto-
additional information, which the control unit uses to matic load transfer.
quickly lower or raise the frame height as necessary.
The operation occurs while the vehicle is in motion or Frame Height Control
while parked.
ECAS will maintain the vehicle frame to a pre-set
The vehicle must be equipped with a rear axle air height within a 3/16-inch (5 mm) range. The optional
suspenion, and requires ABS with Automatic Traction remote control unit allows frame height adjustment
Control to trigger the optional load transfer function within operating limits if the vehicle is parked or mov-
automatically. ing less than 7 mph.
AirLiner Plus components include: Load Transfer Activation
• A cab-mounted electronic control unit that uses
If the load weight is transferred from the tag axle to
information about the vehicle’s rear frame
the drive axle, it will remain shifted for 20 seconds
height to adjust the air pressure of the air
and is then slowly transferred back to a normal con-
spring bags;
dition. The complete load cycle takes approximately
• A frame rail-mounted solenoid valve that ad- 45 seconds.
justs the air pressure;
Slippage of the driving wheels (usually when starting
• An axle- and frame-mounted height sensor out on a slick surface) will activate the automatic
that provides the control unit with frame-height load transfer. The load transfer will activate after the
information; Automatic Traction Control activates.
• A brake light switch that informs the control Pressing the MOM ON (momentary on) side of the
unit when the brakes are applied; LOAD X-FER dash switch will activate the load trans-
• A dash-mounted warning light that indicates a fer system. Manual activation works, however, only at
system fault; vehicle speeds less than 30 mph.
• A load transfer light that displays automatic Load Transfer Termination
load transfer status;
The load transfer cycle will immediately terminate if
• A three-position dash switch that allows auto- the service brakes are applied when the vehicle
matic load transfer, driver-activated load trans- speed is more than 30 mph, when the STOP button
fer, or no load transfer. on the remote control (if equipped) is pressed, or
• An optional hand-held remote control unit that when the vehicle speed exceeds 75 mph.
is used to alter the chassis height for loading The STOP button on the remote control will termi-
and unloading. nate the load transfer at any speed.

ECU Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake.
3. Remove the lower cover at the base of the left
B-pillar.
4. Disconnect the electrical connections at the base
of the B-pillar.
5. Remove the grab handle.
6. Remove the shoulder harness adjustable D-loop
mechanism mounted to the B-pillar.
7. Detach the plastic channel that attaches the up-
holstery to the door frame. This will provide slack
in the upholstery to allow access to the ECU
mounted inside the B-pillar.
8. Remove the fasteners that attach the B-pillar up-
holstery to the cab wall.
9. Reach inside the B-pillar and remove the fasten-
ers that attach the ECU.
10. Disconnect the electrical connections on the unit,
and remove the ECU from the B-pillar.
Installation
1. Install the ECU inside the B-pillar. Connect the
electrical connections.
2. Install the B-pillar upholstery.
3. Attach the plastic channel around the door frame
and upholstery.
4. Install the shoulder harness adjustable D-loop
mechanism.
5. Install the grab handle.
6. Connect the electrical connections at the base of
the B-pillar.
7. Install the lower panel at the base of the B-pillar.

Solenoid Valve Replacement
Replacement 10. Connect the air lines to the valve as marked ear-
lier.
1. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake. 11. Connect the electrical connector to the valve.
2. Chock the front tires. 12. Remove chocks from tires.
3. Drain air from the suspension system.
4. At the ECAS solenoid valve (see Fig. 1), which
is mounted to the frame rail, disconnect the elec-
trical connector.
3 2
3
2
03/06/96 f320520
1. Solenoid Valve
2. Bracket
3. Wire
Fig. 1, Solenoid Valve Assembly

5. Mark the air lines for later reference.
6. Disconnect the air lines from the solenoid valve.
7. Remove the two bolts attaching the solenoid
valve to the valve bracket.
8. Remove the valve from the bracket.
9. Attach the new valve to the bracket. Install the
bolts.

Height Sensor Replacement
Replacement 12. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake.

3. At the ECAS height sensor (see Fig. 1), which is
mounted between the frame rail and the drive
axle housing, disconnect the electrical plug on
the back of the sensor.
5
4
3
02/28/96 f320517
1. Axle 3. Overtravel Lever 5. Bracket
2. Linkage Rod 4. Sensor 6. Frame Rail
Fig. 1, Height Sensor Assembly

4. Remove the bolts attaching the sensor to the
frame rail bracket.
5. Disconnect the linkage rod from the axle hous-
ing.
6. Remove the overtravel lever from the height sen-
sor.
7. Remove the sensor.
8. To install the sensor, attach the overtravel lever
to the height sensor.
9. Attach the linkage rod to the axle housing.
10. Fasten the sensor to the frame rail bracket.
11. Connect the electrical plug to the back of the
height sensor.

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Information trol. This will terminate the load transfer at

any speed.
1. Indicator Lights:
• ECAS FAIL lights up if there is a failure in Troubleshooting Tables
the ECAS system.
Before performing any diagnostics, make sure there
• Load XFER lights up whenever there is a are no ABS faults. Because of the interaction of the
manual or automatic load transfer. ABS and the ECAS systems, a fault in one system
2. Frame Height Control: ECAS will maintain the may cause a malfunction in the other system.
vehicle frame height to a preset value within The following types of failures cause the "ECAS
3/16-inch (4.7 mm) by adjusting the pressure in FAIL" indicator light to remain on:
the rear suspension air bags. With the remote-
control unit, the operator can adjust the frame • Grounded "ECAS FAIL" light wire;
height within the operating limits if the vehicle is • No power at ECAS electronic control unit
parked or traveling less than 7 mph (15 km/h). (ECU) pin 1;
3. Load Transfer Activation: The weight is trans- • Electrical fault in ECAS height sensor;
ferred from the tag axle to the drive axle by ad- • Electrical fault in ECAS valve;
justing the pressure in the air bags. The load is
shifted for 20 seconds, then is slowly equalized • Failure of J1587 data bus;
back to the normal condition. The complete load • Internal ECU fault;
transfer cycle takes approximately 45 seconds.
The load transfer occurs under the following con- • Faulty calibration of ECAS height control;
ditions. • Frame height cannot be adjusted within five
• Automatic activation: The drive wheels minutes after ignition or within 30 seconds dur-
slipping (usually when staring out on a ing normal service.
slick surface) will activate the load transfer. See Table 1 for troubleshooting problems when the
If the vehicle is equipped with Automatic "ECAS FAIL" light remains on. This would include
Traction Control, the load transfer will acti- problems where the wrong action occurs, such as
vate just after the ATC. the air bags inflating rather than deflating, or the
• Manual activation: Pressing the MOM ON drive axle air bags deflating rather than the tag axle
(Momentary On) side of the ECAS XFER air bags. The causes may be crossed electrical wir-
dash switch will activate the load transfer. ing or air supply plumbing.
Manual activation works only at vehicle See Table 2 for frame height problems.
speeds less than 30 mph (50 km/h).
See Table 3 for incorrect ECAS functionality.
4. Load Transfer Termination: The load transfer
cycle will terminate under the following condi- See Table 4 for indicator lamp problems.
tions. See Table 5 for manual load transfer problems.
• Applying the service brakes with a vehicle
speed of more than 30 mph (50 km/h). NOTE: All lamps are activated by the ECU for
approximately two seconds after the ignition is
• Vehicle speed exceeds 75 mph (120 km/
switched on. The ignition must be switched off
h).
for at least 6.4 seconds before restarting to de-
• Pressing the STOP button on the remote termine lamp condition.
control or disconnecting the remote con-

32.14 Rear Suspension, Freightliner AirLiner Plus
Troubleshooting
Electrical Systems Testing

Electrical Systems Testing
Test these pins
on ECAS ECU
harness 35-pin
System connector Acceptable
Ignition Remedy (if not within specification)
Tested (disconnected Value
unless
otherwise
noted)
ECAS FAIL On Light is out Find short to ground in wire between ECAS FAIL light and
—
light ECU.
27 and Battery 0 ohms Trace wire between pin 27 and ground to find cause of high
Ground Off
Ground resistance.
Ground Off 1 and 27 System voltage Find open circuit or cause of high resistance in wiring.
Ignition and 1 and 27 Find open circuit or cause of high resistance in wiring.
constant On System voltage
power 9 and 27
If resistance is infinite (open circuit), find open circuit in

wires to height sensor and repair. If there is continuity but
Height sensor Off 25 and 27 100 to 140 ohms
resistance is out of specification, check resistance at height
sensor. If sensor is not within specification, replace sensor.
13 and 27 If resistance is infinite (open circuit), find open circuit in
ECAS valve wires to ECAS valve and repair. If there is continuity but
electrical Off 15 and 27 15 to 25 ohms resistance is out of specification, check resistance at ECAS
checks valve. If valve is not within specification, replace valve.
30 and 27
Data bus Connect harness If other ECUs are identified with Service Link, check data
connectivity to ECU, and run bus wires to ECU for open, grounded, or crossed wires
(ECAS reads Service Link to (pins 4 and 2). If no other ECUs are identified with Service
vehicle speed see if ECU is Link, there is a main data bus problem, not a specific ECAS
On —
and other connected to problem.
data from data bus.
J1587 data
bus)
There is no test
for ECU. If all
other tests are
Internal ECU
— within — Replace ECU.
fault
specifications,
ECU is probably
bad.
Table 1, Electrical Systems Testing
Frame Height Systems Testing

System Tested Test Procedure Remedy (if not within specification)
Using the remote control unit, raise or lower the Install the height sensor arm in the correct
ECAS height calibration vehicle frame. Press the Normal key, and the position relative to the height sensor rotating
frame should return to normal height. spool.

Troubleshooting

System Tested Test Procedure Remedy (if not within specification)
Check air suspension system for leaks or
Frame height adjust
restrictions in lines or valve ports. Check air Repair as required.
time
supply system for proper charge time.
Table 2, Frame Height Systems Testing
ECAS Functionality Testing

ECAS Functionality Testing
Test these pins

on ECAS ECU
System Acceptable
Ignition harness 35-pin Remedy (if not within specification)
Tested Value
connector
(disconnected)
Connect 9 to 15. All rear
Alternately suspension air
Inflate connect 13 to 9 bags inflate
On
function and to 15. when (and only
when) 13 is Make sure there is adequate air in the supply tanks to
connected inflate the air bags. Check for crossed wiring to the ECAS
valve. Check for correct air plumbing between the ECAS
valve and the air bags.
CAUTION
Do not over-inflate air bags. This may extend the shock
absorbers to their limits and cause damage.
Make sure there is adequate air in the supply tanks to
All rear
Deflate inflate the air bags. Check for crossed wiring to the ECAS
On Connect 9 to 13 suspension air
function valve. Check for correct air plumbing between the ECAS
bags deflate
Make sure there is adequate air in the supply tanks to
Tag axle air inflate the air bags. Check for crossed wiring to the ECAS
Connect 9 to 30
bags deflate valve. Check for correct air plumbing between the ECAS
Load transfer
On Pressure will
function Disconnect 9 equalize Check for crossed wiring to the ECAS valve. Check for
from 30 between drive correct air plumbing between the ECAS valve and the air
Connect 9 to 15 and tag axle air bags.
bags.
Table 3, ECAS Functionality Testing

Troubleshooting
Indicator Light Testing

Indicator Light Testing
Test these pins on
System ECU harness 35- Acceptable
Tested pin connector Value
(disconnected)
ECAS FAIL Connect 33 and 27 Replace bulb. If bulb still does not light, check the wiring
On Light on
light between the bulb and the 35-pin connector.
ECAS XFER Connect 18 and 27 Replace bulb. If bulb still does not light, check the wiring
On Light on
light between the bulb and the 35-pin connector.
Table 4, Indicator Light Testing
Manual Load Transfer Testing

Manual Load Transfer Testing
Test These Pins
System On ECAS ECU Acceptable
Tested harness 35-pin Value
connector
17 and 27, MOM
ON switch
released (with >30k ohms Locate and repair ground (wire pin to pin 17).
harness
disconnected)
Off
17 and 27, MOM
ON switch
Manual load
pressed (with 0 to 2 ohms Locate and repair high resistance in switch circuit.
transfer
harness
switch
disconnected)
ECAS ECU
harness; Jump Perform air bag functionality tests. If air bags function
pin 17 to ground Load transfer correctly as described, manual load transfer function of
On
(with harness cycle will occur ECU is malfunctioning. Replacement of ECU is probably
connected to necessary.
ECU
Table 5, Manual Load Transfer Testing

Specifications
See Fig. 1 for the AirLiner Plus air system plumbing

diagram, and see Fig. 2, Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 for dia-
grams of the AirLiner Plus electrical system.
26
21
3
22
02/29/96 f320509
1. Right Rear Air Bag 3. Solenoid Valve 5. Left Forward Air Bag
2. Left Rear Air Bag 4. Secondary Air Reservoir 6. Right Forward Air Bag
Fig. 1, AirLiner Plus ECAS Air System Plumbing Diagram

Specifications
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Reference Diagram: D06−21820

04/01/96 f541255
Fig. 2, AirLiner Plus ECAS Electrical Diagram (complete view)

Specifications
Fig. 4
Reference Diagram: D06−21820

03/29/96 f541256
Fig. 3, AirLiner Plus ECAS Electrical Diagram (partial view)

Specifications
Fig. 3
04/01/96
Reference Diagram: D06−21820 f541257
Fig. 4, AirLiner Plus ECAS Electrical Diagram (partial view)

Rear Suspension, Hendrickson HAS 32.15
General Information
General Description Air Control System

The Hendrickson HAS air suspension system allows
The Hendrickson HAS suspension (see Fig. 1) uses
for a smooth ride while maintaining a constant ride
air bags to support the sprung weight on vehicles
height, even with varying loads. Although most ve-
with both single and tandem axles. The air bags (air
hicles with the HAS system use only one height con-
springs) mount on a crossmember between the two
trol valve for the rear suspension, some vehicles with
main support beams that are fastened to the axle
uneven loading may have a height control valve for
housing and pivot on forward-mounted hanger
each side of the vehicle. An optional suspension
brackets on the frame. Torque rods, running from the
dump system permits the driver to temporarily lower
hanger brackets to the axle seats, transfer vehicle
the frame for trailer coupling or uncoupling without
motion to the frame. Lateral stability is provided by
having to leave the cab. See Subject 400 for a sche-
transverse torque rods from the inside of the frame
matic of the air control system.
rails to brackets on the axle housings. The shock
absorbers help to dampen the oscillations of the air The suspension air control system uses air supplied
springs and control the torque reaction of the axle from the secondary air brake system. The air supply
housings on acceleration. line is connected to a secondary air manifold located
behind the instrument panel. If a loss of air pressure
occurs forward (upstream) of the protection valve,
2
3
4
6
5
04/12/99 f320749
1. Hanger Bracket 4. Axle Seat 6. Air Spring

2. Main Support Beam 5. Shock Absorber 7. Transverse Rod
3. Torque Rod
Fig. 1, Rear Suspension, Hendrickson HAS-Series

32.15 Rear Suspension, Hendrickson HAS
General Information
the air spring system will be isolated and maintain

the air pressure within the suspension system until
repairs can be made. However, if a loss of air occurs 1
rearward (downstream) of the protection valve, the 2
air in the brake system will be protected, but the air
pressure in the air springs will be lost. 4 4
6
The vehicle ride height is maintained by a height 3
control valve mounted on the frame and linkage that 10 4
connects the valve to the suspension crossmember. 10
(See Fig. 2). As the frame-to-axle housing clearance
changes due to a change in the vehicle load, the
5
linkage moves the lever on the height control valve, 6
4
causing air to move in or out of the air bags. A slight
delay in the operation of the height control valve pre- 9 7
vents the system from trying to adjust the ride height 2
for each suspension movement. 04/12/99 8 f320753
1. Bolt 6. Adapter
The optional air suspension dump system is used to 2. Washer 7. Height Control Valve
deflate the rear suspension air springs during trailer 3. Tee 8. Nut
coupling and uncoupling operations. The dump con- 4. Tube Assembly 9. Bracket
trol valve is located on the dash in the cab. When 5. Elbow 10. Elbow
the dump control valve is toggled, supply air flows
through the dump control valve delivery port and Fig. 2, Height Control Valve Assembly (typical)
pressurizes the signal line to the relay valve. The
pressurization of the signal line closes the relay valve flexible bushings in each end, connect the hangers to
supply port while opening the ports from the air bags the axle seats. When the vehicle travels over a
to the atmosphere. Air from the air bags exhausts bump, the axle housing suddenly rises and com-
through the relay valve until the dump control valve presses the air bags. The pressure in the air bags
is released or until the frame rests on the stops in- increases immediately, which absorbs most of the
side the air bags. A pressure switch in the signal line energy of the upward-moving axle housing without
to the relay valve senses the signal pressure and transferring that movement to the frame. The shock
switches on an optional red status light on the dash. absorbers then help absorb the release of that higher
To allow the air springs to inflate after being dumped, pressure by slowing the downward movement of the
the dump control valve must be first toggled down- axle housing after the bump.
ward to exhaust the pressure in the signal line. The front of each main support arm is allowed to
The pilot-operated relay valve is used for rapid defla- pivot and slide on replaceable slipper pads in the
tion of the air bags for trailer coupling and uncou- hanger brackets. A torque rod is attached to each
pling. When pilot pressure from the dump control hanger bracket and to each axle seat bracket by rub-
valve is applied to the relay valve, the supply air from ber bushings with internal pins, installed in the torque
the height control valve is stopped from flowing rods at specified angles. Shims are used for adjust-
through the relay valve and, simultaneously, the air ment at the front of each torque rod to make sure
spring pressure is exhausted directly to the atmo- that the wheels run parallel to the frame rails.
sphere through passages in the relay valve. The torque rods control the forward and aft move-
ment of the unsprung pieces during suspension
Rear Suspension Components travel. The flexible rubber bushings in the torque
rods allow vertical movement of the axle housing
The axle housing, the lower shock mounts and the
while limiting its forward and aft movement. The
lower air bag mounts are all solidly attached to the
driveline angles are kept within the specified limits by
HAS main support arms. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4. The
the torque rods’ control of the rotational forces on the
main support arm hanger brackets, the upper shock
axle housings during acceleration and deceleration.
mounts and the upper air bag mounts are all solidly
The torque rods transfer the forward motion of the
mounted to the frame rails. The torque rods, with

General Information
2
5 7 8
6
1 2 9 10
2 3
30
28
29 6
7
1 11 27
26 11
2 13
6 14 12
32
13
20 4
24 14
25
2 6
31 23 22 21 15
7
2
1 17
5 16 18
19
20
04/13/99 f320755
1. Nut 11. Bolt 22. Spacer
2. Washer 12. Suspension Support 23. Rebound Roller
3. Reinforcement 13. Washer 24. Washer
4. Bolt 14. Nut 25. Bolt
5. Bolt 15. Axle Seat 26. Hanger
6. Washer 16. Bottom Cap Assembly 27. Main Support Beam
7. Nut 17. Spherical Washer 28. U-Bolt
8. Shock Absorber Mounting 18. Washer 29. Top Pad
Bracket 19. Nut 30. Air Spring Assembly
9. Bolt 20. Transverse Rod Assembly 31. Bolt
10. Shock Absorber 21. Alignment Shims 32. Bracket
Fig. 3, Rear Suspension Components, Hendrickson HAS-40LH Series
axle housing to the frame rails on acceleration and and torque rods, and heavy-duty air bags and shock
pull back on the frame during braking. absorbers. There are two HAS ride height specifica-
tions (measured from the bottom of the frame rail to
The transverse rods, also with rubber bushings in
the bottom of the main support arm at the axle seat)
each end, connect the brackets on the axle housings
depending on which suspension is used. The HAS
to the brackets on the frame rails. The transverse
suspensions are available for single or tandem axle
rods keep a constant lateral relationship of the frame
vehicles and can be ordered with or without the sus-
to the axle housing, while still allowing vertical move-
pension dump feature.
ment of the axle housings.
The Hendrickson HAS suspension is available in
varying capacities and for limited off-highway use.
The heavy-duty or off-highway suspensions have
thicker main support arms, heavier crossmembers

General Information
5 6 1 2 7
2
8 9
1 31
2 3
29
30 6
10
11 13 11
27
6 10 14 28 12
1
2 13
33 26 14
25
21 4
6
24 15
2 16 6 10
23
32 22
17
2
1 10
5 18
20
2 19
21
04/13/99 f320756
1. Nut 12. Suspension Support 23. Spacer
2. Washer 13. Washer 24. Rebound Roller
3. Reinforcement 14. Nut 25. Washer
4. Bolt 15. Shock Absorber Mounting 26. Bolt
5. Bolt Bracket 27. Hanger
6. Washer 16. Axle Seat 28. Main Support Beam
7. Shock Absorber Mounting 17. Spherical Washer 29. U-Bolt
Bracket 18. Washer 30. Top Pad
8. Bolt 19. Nut 31. Air Spring Assembly
9. Shock Absorber 20. Bottom Cap Assembly 32. Bolt
10. Nut 21. Transverse Rod Assembly 33. Bracket
11. Bolt 22. Alignment Shims
Fig. 4, Rear Suspension Components, Hendrickson HAS-400, HAS-402, and HAS-460 Series
Rear Suspension Service Notes CAUTION

WARNING Do not use an arc welder on the suspension
parts or use a cutting torch to remove any fas-
A main support member that has been subjected teners. The use of heat on suspension compo-
to heat, nicks or gouges can fail, causing loss of nents will adversely affect the strength of these
vehicle control and possible personal injury or parts. Never reinstall used suspension fasteners.
property damage. Always use the same part number or an exact
equivalent part number when replacing any sus-
pension fastener. All fasteners must be tightened

General Information
to their specified torque and the U-bolts must be

tightened in stages as described in Specifica-
tions 400.
Check the axle alignment after replacing components
that affect alignment, such as a main support beam,
a torque rod or a hanger.
NOTE: During installation, apply Pipe Sealant
with Teflon D8AZ–19554–A or equivalent meet-
ing specification WSK–M2G350–A2 or ESR–
M18P7–A to the air fitting threads.
NOTE: When replacing the torque rod bushings,
lubricate the new bushings with a vegetable-
based oil only. Make sure the new bushings are
centered in the torque rod bores.
NOTE: A shim pack of three 0.11 inch (2.8 mm)
thick spacers are used to adjust axle lateral
tracking offset. Install the spacers as required to
adjust tracking.

Main Support Member Removal and Installation
Removal
4
NOTE: Operation of the HAS suspension will
result in wear between the main support mem-
ber and the spring hanger slipper pad. In normal 5
use, these components will function satisfacto- 1 2
rily even though they show some wear. Prema-
ture wear may occur, however, and requires the
replacement of one or both parts. A main sup-
port member should be replaced if it has 3/8
inch (9.5 mm) or more wear at the hanger cam
contact area. 3
1. Stop the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine and apply the park brakes. Chock the
front and rear tires.
2. Support the axle housing with a jack stand under
the pinion nose to prevent the axle housing from
rotating when the U-bolts are removed.
04/13/99 f320478a
WARNING 1. Lever
2. Ball Joint and Jam Nut
The air suspension system will start moving the 3. Vertical Linkage Rod
frame when the lever for the ride height control 4. Height Control Valve
valve is moved from its center position. To avoid 5. Locknut
injury or property damage, make sure that your
Fig. 1, Ride Height Control Linkage
hands and all objects are away from any pinch
points when the lever is moved. 8. Slide the main support member out of the hanger
3. Disconnect the vertical linkage for the height and remove the main support assembly from the
control valve at the end of the horizontal lever. vehicle.
See Fig. 1. Lift the lever on the height control 9. Inspect the main support member for wear. Re-
valve so that the air bags raise the frame about place the main support member if worn more
3 inches (75 mm). Support the frame at that po- than 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) at the hanger end where
sition with jack stands. it contacts the slipper pad or if it has cracks,
4. Remove the locknuts, washers and bolts that nicks or signs of the application of heat from a
connect the cross channel and shock absorber torch or welder.
brackets to both main support members. See 10. Inspect the slipper pad for wear. Replace the
Fig. 2. Remove the lower shock mount fasteners slipper pad if worn. Remove the four bolts and
on the HAS–40LH models. washers that hold the slipper pad to the hanger.
5. Use a floor jack to raise the cross channel about If rivets were installed instead of bolts to hold the
3 inches (75 mm). Support the cross channel slipper pad, use a grinder to remove the rivet
assembly with jack stands. heads.
6. Remove the locknut, washers and bolt from the

rebound roller assembly at the front hanger. See
Fig. 3. Remove the rebound roller and spacer.
7. Remove the U-bolt high nuts and washers, then
remove the bottom cap, U-bolts and the top pad
and Delrin liner.

3
2
1 5
6
7
6 8
5 9
8
7
4
3 10
2
04/13/99 2 31 f320475a
1. Locknut 6. Air Spring
2. Washer 7. Main Support
3. Bolt Member 12 11
4. Lower Shock Bracket 8. Cross Channel 01/12/96 f320471a
5. Shock Absorber 1. Rebound Bolt 8. Bar Pin
2. Locknut 9. Torque Rod
Fig. 2, Main Support Member 3. Washer 10. Bottom Cap
4. Hanger 11. Cross Channel
Installation 5. Rebound Roller 12. Main Support
6. Alignment Shim(s) Member
7. Bolt
WARNING
Fig. 3, Removing the Rebound Roller
Always use new fasteners when installing sus-
pension components. Reuse of fasteners can 4. The Delrin liner must be positioned on the top of
lead to component damage and loss of vehicle the main support member. Install the U-bolt top
control, possibly resulting in personal injury or pad on the Delrin liner. Install the U-bolts over
property damage. the top pad and liner and around the main sup-
port member, the spacer (if so equipped), the
1. Install the slipper pad, bolts and washers into the axle seat assembly, the axle housing, and the
hanger. Tighten the bolts 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m). In- bottom cap. Install the washers and high nuts
stall new rivets if so equipped. and tighten with your fingers, but do not fully
tighten the U-bolt high nuts at this time.
2. Slide the main support member into the hanger
assembly. 5. Lower the floor jack under the cross channel until
the cross channel is against the main support
3. Position the main support member on the axle members. Install the shock absorber bracket (if
seat, or on the spacer plate if the vehicle is so so equipped) and bolts into the cross channel
equipped, with the main support member center and main support members. See Fig. 2. Install
dowel sliding into the hole in the axle seat or the washers and tighten the locknuts 280 lbf·ft
spacer plate. (380 N·m). On the HAS–40LH models, install the

lower shock absorber mount bolts, washers and

nuts. Tighten the shock absorber nut 60 lbf·ft (82
N·m).
6. Install the rebound roller into the hanger. Install
the bolt, washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut
60 lbf·ft (82 N·m).
7. Center the main support member between the
hanger legs. Move the lever for the height control
valve up to lift the frame from its jack stands.
Remove the jack stands from the frame.
8. Tighten the U-bolt locknuts in stages as de-
scribed in Specifications 400. Rap the top of
the U-bolts with a hammer and then retighten the
high nuts 500 lbf·ft (680 N·m).
IMPORTANT: Do not exceed the specified
torque on the U-bolt high nuts. Retighten the
U-bolt high nuts after 1000 miles (1600 km).
9. Move the lever for the height control valve down
to lower the frame until the upper ball joint stud
in the vertical linkage exactly aligns with the hole
in the lever when the lever is in the horizontal
position. Install the height control valve ball joint
stud, washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut 10
lbf·ft (14 N·m).
10. Remove the jack stand from under the nose of
the axle housing.
11. Check and adjust the ride height as described in
Subject 180.
12. Check the alignment after new main support
members are installed.

Axle Seat Removal and Installation
Removal
4
1. Stop the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine and apply the park brakes. Chock the
front and rear tires. 5
1 2
2. Support the axle housing with a jack stand under
the pinion nose to prevent the axle housing from
rotating when the U-bolts are removed.
WARNING
The air suspension system will start moving the 3
frame when the lever for the ride height control
valve is moved from its center position. To avoid
points when the lever is moved.
3. Disconnect the vertical linkage for the height
control valve at the end of the horizontal lever.
See Fig. 1. Lift the lever on the height control 04/13/99 f320478a
valve so that the air bags raise the rear of the 1. Lever
frame about 3 inches (75 mm). Support the 2. Ball Joint and Jam Nut
frame at that position with jack stands. 3. Vertical Linkage Rod
4. Height Control Valve
4. Remove the nuts, washers and bolts that hold 5. Locknut
the torque rod to the hanger legs.
Fig. 1, Ride Height Control Linkage
5. Remove the nuts and washers that hold the
torque rod to the axle seat. Remove the torque control, possibly resulting in personal injury or
rod. property damage.
6. Remove the high nuts from the U-bolts and re- 1. Install the new studs with a stud driver. Insert the
move the bottom cap and top pad and Delrin stud in the hole of the axle seat and tap into po-
liner. sition with a hammer and brass drift.
7. Use a floor jack to raise the cross channel and 2. Lift the main support member with a floor jack
main support member just enough to remove the and install the axle seat on the top of the axle
axle seat. housing. Install the spacer (if so equipped) above
8. Remove the axle seat. See Fig. 2. the axle seat.
9. If the axle seat studs need replacement, remove 3. Position the main support member on the axle
them with a hammer and brass drift. seat, or on the spacer plate if the vehicle is so
equipped, with the main support member center
dowel sliding into the hole in the axle seat or
Installation spacer plate.
4. The Delrin liner must be positioned on the top of
WARNING the main support member. Install the U-bolt top
pad on the Delrin liner. Install the U-bolts over
Always use new fasteners when installing sus- the top pad and liner and around the main sup-
pension components. Reuse of fasteners can port member, the spacer (if so equipped), the
lead to component damage and loss of vehicle axle seat assembly, the axle housing, and the
bottom cap. Install the washers and high nuts

Axle Seat Removal and Installation
9. Move the lever for the height control valve up to

4 lift the frame from its jack stands, Remove the
jack stands from the frame.
3 10. Tighten the U-bolt locknuts in stages as de-
2 scribed in Specifications 400. Rap the top of
1 5 the U-bolts with a hammer and then retighten the
6 high nuts 500 lbf·ft (680 N·m).
7 IMPORTANT: Do not exceed the specified
8 torque on the U-bolt high nuts. Retighten the
U-bolt high nuts after 1000 miles (1600 km).
9
11. Move the lever for the height control valve down
to lower the frame until the upper ball joint stud
in the vertical linkage exactly aligns with the hole
in the lever when the lever is in the horizontal
position. Install the height control valve ball joint
stud, washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut 10
lbf·ft (14 N·m).
10 12. Remove the jack stand from under the nose of
the axle housing.
13. Check and adjust the ride height as described in
Subject 180.
12 11
01/12/96 f320471a 14. Check the alignment after new axle seats are
1. Rebound Bolt 8. Bar Pin installed.
3. Washer 10. Bottom Cap
5. Rebound Roller 12. Main Support
6. Alignment Shim(s) Member
7. Bolt
Fig. 2, Removing the Axle Seat

and tighten with your fingers, but do not fully
tighten the U-bolt high nuts at this time.
5. Install the torque rod on the axle seat so that the
holes in the bushing pin align with the axle seat
studs. Install the washers and nuts, but do not
tighten at this time.
6. Install the front end of the torque rod onto the
hanger legs and install any shims that were re-
moved. Install the bolts through the hanger legs,
shims, and the front bushing pin.
7. Tighten the nuts on the front of the torque rod
175 lbf·ft (237 N·m).
8. Tighten the nuts for the torque rod pin at the axle
seat 175 lbf·ft (237 N·m).

Replacement (See Fig. 1) 5. Push out the old bushings. Use a vertical shop
press with a capacity of at least 10 tons. A 5-inch
Use the following procedure to replace the torque rod (127 mm) piece of 2-inch by 1/4-inch (50-mm by
bushing. 6-mm) wall, steel-tubing receiving tool is re-
quired. The bushings are not cartridge-type
1. Chock the front tires, and the tires of the drive bushings and do not have a metal outer sleeve.
axles.
6. Support the torque rod end on the receiving tool
2. Remove the bushing pin locknuts and washers at with the end tube of the torque rod centered on
the axle end of the torque rod. See Fig. 1. the tool.
4 WARNING
Do not use heat or a cutting torch to remove the
3 bushings from the torque rod. The use of heat
2 will weaken the torque rod, which could cause
1 5 the rod to break. This could result in a loss of
6 vehicle control, personal injury, or property dam-
age.
7
8 7. Push directly on the bushing pin until the bushing
is pushed out of the torque rod end tube.
9 8. Clean and inspect the torque rod ends. Remove
any nicks with emery cloth.
9. Lubricate the torque rod ends and the new rub-
ber bushings with a vegetable-based oil. Do not
use a petroleum-based or soap-based lubricant.
10. Press in the new bushings while supporting the
torque rod end on the receiving tool with the end
10
tube of the torque rod centered on the receiving
tool. The bushings must be installed with the
mounting flats on the bar pin positioned 90 de-
grees to the shank of the torque rod. See Fig. 2.
12 11
01/12/96 f320471a
1
1. Rebound Bolt 8. Bar Pin 2
3. Washer 10. Bottom Cap
5. Rebound Roller 12. Main Support
6. Alignment Shim(s) Member 12/12/95 f320472
7. Bolt 1. Torque Rod 2. Bushing Bar Pin
Fig. 1, Torque Rod Installation Fig. 2, Positioning the Bar Pin Mounting Flats
3. Loosen the rebound bolt locknut in the hanger. 11. Press directly on the bar pin of the bushings,
4. Remove the bushing pin locknuts, bolts and which must be centered within the torque rod
washers, and any alignment shims at the hanger end tubes. When pressing in the new bushings,
end of the torque rod. Note the number of shims, overshoot the final position by approximately
as the same thickness shim pack must be rein- 3/16 inch (5 mm).
stalled to avoid affecting the vehicle’s alignment. 12. Press the bushing again from the opposite side
to center the bushing within the torque rod end.

13. Position the torque rod into the axle seat and
attach it with the washers and locknuts.
Handtighten the locknuts.
14. Position the torque rod onto the forward face of
the hanger legs. Assemble the bolts, washers
and locknuts, and any alignment shims. Tighten
locknut 175 lbf·ft (237 N·m). See Fig. 1.
15. Tighten locknuts at the axle end of the torque
rods 175 lbf·ft (237 N·m).
16. Tighten rebound bolt locknut 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m).

Height Control Valve Removal and Installation
Removal 5. Remove the locknuts, washers, and bolts that

attach the height control valve to the frame.
1. Chock the front tires. 6. Remove the brass air fittings from the height
control valve.
2. Drain the vehicle’s air system.
WARNING Installation
The air suspension system will start moving the 1. Install the brass air fittings into the height control
frame when the lever for the ride height control valve ports.
valve is moved from its center position. To avoid 2. Install the bolts, washers, and locknuts that at-
injury or property damage, make sure that your tach the valve to the frame rail.
points when the lever is moved. 3. Attach the air lines to the height control valve.
3. Remove the height control valve vertical rod from 4. Attach the height control valve vertical linkage
the valve lever by removing the nut and lock rod to the height control valve lever, and install
washer. Push down on the lever of the height the lock washer and nut. See Fig. 1.
control valve to exhaust the air from the rear 5. Return air to the system.
suspension air bags.
6. Adjust the height control valve for proper ride
4. Remove the air lines attached to the height con- height as described in Subject 180.
trol valve. See Fig. 1.
7
2
12/18/95 f320478
1. Lever
3. Vertical Linkage Rod
5. Locknut
Fig. 1, Height Control Valve System

Fifth Wheel/Hanger Clearance
Information
The HAS front hangers must have at least 1/4-inch
(6 mm) clearance between the top of the hanger and
the bottom of the fifth wheel mounting bracket on the
sides of the frame rails. In some cases, the fifth
wheel mounting bracket may have to be cut out to
provide the correct clearance. See Fig. 1 for an ex-
ample of a fifth wheel mounting bracket that has
been modified.
01/04/96 f320467
A. Clearance: 1/4 inch (6 mm)
Fig. 1, Fifth Wheel Mounting Angle Clearance

Quick Release Valve Replacement

3. Disconnect the air lines from the quick release
valve. Identify the air line at the top of the valve.
4. Remove the quick release valve from the frame
or cross member.
5. Remove the brass air fittings from the valve.
6. Attach the brass air fittings to the replacement
quick release valve.
7. Attach the valve to the frame or cross member.
12/18/95 f320479
1. Quick Release Valve
Fig. 1, Quick Release Valve Installation

8. Connect the air lines to the valve, making sure to
attach the identified line to the top of the valve.
9. Build up pressure in the air system.
10. Remove the chocks from the front tires.

Slipper Pad Removal and Installation
Removal
4
NOTE: Operation of the HAS suspension will
result in wear between the main support mem-
ber and the hanger slipper pad. In normal use, 5
these components will function satisfactorily 1 2
even though the components indicate some
wear.
WARNING 3
The air suspension system will start moving the
2. Disconnect the vertical linkage from the lever of 04/13/99 f320478a
the height control valve and lift the lever to raise
the rear of the frame about 3 inches (75 mm). 1. Lever
See Fig. 1. 3. Vertical Linkage Rod
3. Support the frame with jack stands. 4. Height Control Valve
5. Locknut
4. Apply an upward force on the cross channel with
a jack or, on single axles, by pushing down on Fig. 1, Ride Height Control Linkage
the height control lever to lift the cross channel.
This will cause the tips of the main support mem-
bers to drop away from the slipper pad. See
Fig. 2.
IMPORTANT: Do not nick or gouge the cross
channel.
1 1
5. Remove the fasteners and the slipper pad. In
2
some instances, the screws may have to be
drilled out. See Fig. 3.
6. In some instances, remove the rebound roller to 3
gain enough clearance to remove the slipper
pad. Loosen the rebound bolt locknut, remove
the washer, the bolt, and the rebound roller as-
sembly.
04/13/99 f320467a
7. For rivets, remove the four 1/4-inch (6-mm) rivets 1. Slipper Pad 3. Rebound Roller Bolt
by grinding away the rivet heads. With a drift pin, 2. Bolts or Rivets and Nut
punch the rivets through the holes and remove
the slipper pad. Fig. 2, Slipper Pad Installation

Slipper Pad Removal and Installation
04/13/99 3 f320473a
1. Bolts or Rivets 3. Hanger Legs
2. Slipper Pad 4. Frame Rail
Fig. 3, Hanger Assembly
Installation
1. Position the slipper pad and retainer plate on the
frame hanger.
2. Tighten the hexhead self-tapping screws 25 lbf·ft
(34 N·m).
3. Or, install the rivets using a rivet gun.
4. Raise the frame off the jack stands by pulling up
on the height control valve lever. Remove the
jack stands.
5. Push down on the height control valve lever to
lower the frame until the upper ball stud on the
vertical linkage rod exactly aligns with the hole in
the lever when the lever is horizontal.
6. Install the ball stud into the hole in the lever and
install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut 10
lbf·ft (14 N·m).

Cross Channel Removal and Installation
Removal 3. Remove the locknuts and washers that attach

both the air springs to the cross channel. See
Fig. 2.
1. Stop the vehicle on a level surface and shutdown
the engine. Chock the front and rear tires.
WARNING
points when the lever is moved. 6
5
control valve at the end of the horizontal lever.
See Fig. 1. Lift the lever on the height control
valve so that the air bags raise the rear of the
frame about 3 inches (75 mm). Support the 7 8
frame at that position with jack stands. 4
1
4 3 3
3 1
01/04/96 2 1 f320475
5 1. Locknut 6. Air Spring
1 2 2. Washer 7. Main Support
3. Bolt Member
4. Lower Shock Bracket 8. Cross Channel
5. Shock Absorber
Fig. 2, Main Support Member

4. Remove the locknuts, washers, and bolts that
3 attach the cross channel to the main support
members and to the shock absorber lower
mounting brackets.
5. Raise the cross channel by pushing down on the
height control lever to compress the air springs
just enough to clear the studs on the bottom of
the air springs. Remove the cross channel.
04/13/99 f320478a
1. Lever
Installation
3. Vertical Linkage Rod 1. Position the cross channel so that the holes in
4. Height Control Valve the cross channel are aligned under the studs of
5. Locknut the air springs. Install the washers and nuts.
Tighten the nuts on the air spring studs 25 lbf·ft
Fig. 1, Height Control Linkage (34 N·m).

Cross Channel Removal and Installation
2. Lower the cross channel assembly onto the main

support members by pushing down on the height
control valve lever.
3. Install the bolts, washers and locknuts that con-
nect the cross channel to the main support mem-
ber and lower shock absorber mounts. Tighten
the locknuts 290 lbf·ft (393 N·m).
4. Raise the frame by lifting the height control valve
lever and remove the jack stands.
5. Attach the ball joint stud of the vertical linkage
rod to the height control valve link, and tighten
the locknut on the ball joint stud 10 lbf·ft (14
N·m).

Axle Alignment Checking and Adjustment
Checking and Adjustment

Use the following procedure after all repairs to the
suspension:
1. Park vehicle on a level surface. Free and center A
all suspension joints by slowly moving the ve-
hicle back and forth several times without apply-
B
ing the brakes.
C
2. Chock the front tires and the tires of drive axles.
3. C-clamp a nine-foot (2.74-m) piece of straight
bar stock or angle iron across the frame. Select
a location as far forward of the forward drive axle
as possible where components will not interfere.
The lower frame flange may be preferred on
some vehicles, otherwise use the upper frame
flange.
4. Align the straight bar stock or angle iron on the
frame using a carpenter’s square.
C
5. Check the rear drive axle first. See Fig. 1 . Use
a trammel bar or its equivalent to measure from B
the straight edge to the center line of the rear 12/11/95 f320470
axle on both sides of the vehicle. If both sides A. Trammel Bar
measure within 3/16 inch (5 mm) of being the B. Each side must be within 3/16 inch (5 mm) of each
same, the alignment of the rear drive axle is ac- other.
ceptable. If the sides differ by more than 3/16- C. Distances between axles must be within 1/8 inch
inch (5 mm), first loosen the rebound locknut, (3 mm) of each other.
and then adjust the rear drive axle by loosening Fig. 1, Drive Axle Tracking Alignment
up the torque rod bar pin locknuts on the hang-
ers. Add or remove drop-in shims as needed. 9. Tighten the torque rod bar pin locknuts 180 lbf·ft
(244 N·m).
NOTE: The torque rod bar pin must be mounted
to the forward face of the hanger legs. No more 10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
than four shims may be used (for a maximum
thickness of 1/4 inch (6 mm).
6. Snug the torque rod bar pin locknuts but do not
torque to specification.
7. With the rear drive axle properly aligned, the
front drive axle alignment can be checked by
measuring forward from the center of the axle
shafts on the rear drive axle using a trammel bar.
If the forward drive axle spacing measurements
differ by more than 1/8 inch (3 mm), add or sub-
tract shims at the forward hangers.
8. Following the adjustment of both axles, move the
vehicle back and forth several times prior to re-
moving the straight edge from the frame. Re-
check the alignment.

Replacement 6. Disconnect the air lines to the air spring.

7. Remove the brass air fittings from the air spring.
8. Remove the locknuts and washers that attach
2. Support the frame with jack stands. the air spring to the upper air spring frame
hanger.
9. Remove the air spring.
WARNING 10. Attach the new air spring to the air spring frame
hanger by inserting the studs into the appropriate
The air suspension system will start moving the holes.
valve is moved from its center position. To avoid 11. Attach the air spring to the cross channel.
injury or property damage, make sure that your Tighten the nuts 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m).
hands and all objects are away from any pinch 12. Tighten the outboard locknut that attaches the air
points when the lever is moved. spring to the air spring frame hanger 25 lbf·ft (34
4. Remove the upper ball joint nut and stud from N·m).
the lever on the height control valve. See Fig. 1.
Move the height control valve lever down to ex-
haust all the air from the air bags.
5
1 2
4
5 6
3
2 3 1
04/13/99 f320475b
1. Locknut 5. Main Support
2. Washer Member
04/13/99 f320478a
3. Bolt 6. Cross Channel
4. Air Spring
1. Lever
2. Ball Joint and Jam Nut Fig. 2, Air Spring Mounting
4. Height Control Valve 13. Attach the brass fittings to the air spring using a
5. Locknut Teflon thread seal.
Fig. 1, Ride Height Control Linkage 14. Connect the air lines to the air spring.
the air spring to the cross channel. See Fig. 2.

15. Connect the ball stud on the vertical linkage rod

to the lever for the height control valve. Install
the washer and tighten the nut 10 lbf·ft (14 N·m).
16. Remove the jack stands.
17. Build up pressure in the air system and check
the ride height as described in Subject 180.

Air Spring Frame Hanger Removal and Installation
Removal 4. Disconnect the air lines from the air spring fit-
tings.
1. Chock the front tires. 5. Remove the brass air fittings from the air spring.
WARNING the air springs studs to the upper bracket on the
frame rail. See Fig. 2.
frame when the lever for the ride height control 7. Remove the nuts, washers and bolts that hold
valve is moved from its center position. To avoid the upper air spring bracket to the frame rail. Re-
injury or property damage, make sure that your move the air spring bracket.
points when the lever is moved. Installation
control valve at the end of the horizontal lever. 1. Position the air spring upper bracket on the
See Fig. 1. Lift the lever on the height control frame rails. Install the bolts through the frame rail
valve so that the air bags raise the rear of the and upper bracket and install the washers, and
frame about 3 inches (75 mm). Support the locknuts. Tighten the locknuts 340 lbf·ft (461
frame at that position with jack stands. N·m).
2. Attach the air spring to the air spring frame
bracket. Tighten the outboard locknut 25 lbf·ft (34
4 N·m).
5
1 2
2
3 3
04/13/99 f320478a
1. Lever
2. Ball Joint and Jam Nut 12/14/95 f320476
4. Height Control Valve 1. Locknut 3. Air Spring
5. Locknut 2. Bracket
Fig. 1, Height Control Valve Linkage Fig. 2, Air Spring Installation
3. Drain the air from the vehicle’s air system then 3. Attach the brass air fittings to the air spring port
lower the lever on the height control valve to ex- using Teflon thread sealant.
haust the air from the air springs. 4. Connect the air lines to the air spring fittings.

Air Spring Frame Hanger Removal and Installation
5. Build up pressure in the air system and raise the

height control lever to lift the frame off the jack
stands. Remove the jack stands and lower the
vehicle.
6. Align the ball joint stud in the vertical linkage rod
with the hole in the height control lever. Install
the ball joint stud, the washer and locknut.
Tighten the locknut 10 lbf·ft (14 N·m).

Shock Absorber Bracket Removal and Installation
Removal NOTE: The front of the main support member will

move downward as the load is removed. Support
the frame in this position with jack stands.
4. Remove the shock absorber. Refer to Sub-
WARNING ject 170.
5. Remove nuts, washers and bolts from the shock
The air suspension system will start moving the absorber frame hanger bracket. See Fig. 2. Re-
frame when the lever for the ride height control move the top shock absorber bracket from the
valve is moved from its center position. To avoid frame.
2. Remove the locknut and washer and disconnect
the ball joint stud on the top of the vertical link- 1
age rod from the height control valve lever. See
Fig. 1.
2
5
1 2
3 04/13/99 f320476a
1. Upper Bracket 4. Main Support
2. Shock Absorber Member
3. Lower Bracket
Fig. 2, Shock Absorber Mounts (typical)

6. Remove the nuts, washers and bolts that attach
the cross channel and lower shock absorber
04/13/99 f320478a bracket to the rear of the main support member.
1. Lever
2. Ball Joint and Jam Nut 7. Remove the lower bracket by sliding the bracket
3. Vertical Linkage Rod to the rear.
5. Locknut
Installation
Fig. 1, Height Control Valve Linkage
1. Install the bolts and washers that attach the
3. Lift the height control lever to raise the rear of frame hanger bracket from the inboard side of
the frame enough to remove the load from the the frame. Install the brackets, washers and lock-
suspension. nuts. Tighten the nuts 340 lbf·ft (461 N·m).
2. Position the lower bracket between the cross
channel and the main support member.

Shock Absorber Bracket Removal and Installation
3. Install the bolts and washers from the top of the

cross channel, through the shock bracket and
main support member. Install the washers and
locknuts and tighten the locknuts attaching the
cross channel to the main support member 290
lbf·ft (393 N·m).
4. Install the shock absorber. Install the washers at
both sides of each shock bushing for a total of
four washers per shock absorber.
5. Tighten shock absorber locknuts 60 lbf·ft (81
N·m).
6. Lift the lever of the height control valve to raise
the rear of the frame off the jack stands. Remove
the jack stands and lower the frame by pushing
down on the height control valve lever.
7. Align the ball joint stud in the vertical linkage rod
with the hole in the height control valve lever.
Install the washer and locknut. Tighten the lock-

Transverse Rod Removal and Installation
Removal ( See Fig. 1)

4
NOTE: This procedure is for replacement of a 7 6
transverse rod with a tapered stud at the axle
connection and a straddle mount pin at the
frame bracket end. Some installations have
3 2 5
straddle mounts at both ends of the transverse
rod.
1
1. Chock the front and rear tires. 8
2. Remove the nuts and washers from the bolts
that fasten the pin in the transverse rod bushing
to the frame bracket. Disconnect the transverse
rod where it is attached to the frame bracket
bracket.
3. Remove the nut from the tapered stud in the 04/13/99 f320477
tube bracket on the axle housing. Hit the top of 1. Locknut 5. Tapered Stud End
the axle bracket tube hard with a large hammer 2. Transverse Rod 6. Axle Bracket Tube
to momentarily distort the tube and loosen the 3. Frame Bracket 7. Washer
tapered stud. Remove the stud and transverse 4. Straddle Mount Pin 8. Axle Bracket
rod from the bracket on the axle housing.
Fig. 1, Transverse Rod Assembly
Installation
1. Clear the tapered hole in the axle bracket of all
foreign matter.
2. Insert the tapered stud and torque rod bushing
into the bracket.
3. Attach the washer and locknut to the stud.
Tighten 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m).
4. After tightening, hit the top of the axle bracket
tube with a hammer to seat the tapered stud.
Retighten.
5. Position the straddle mount end of the transverse
rod at the frame bracket, and tighten 200 lbf·ft
(271 N·m).

Replacement
NOTE: Shock absorbers are 1 3/8 inches (35
mm) in diameter with a compressed length of 18
1/3 inches (466 mm) and an extended length of
30 inches (762 mm).
2. Remove the nut, washer and bolts that attach
the shock absorber to the frame hanger bracket.
See Fig. 1.
04/13/99 f320476a
1. Upper Bracket 4. Main Support
2. Shock Absorber Member
3. Lower Bracket
Fig. 1, Shock Absorber Mounts (typical)

3. Remove the fasteners that attach the shock ab-
sorber to the lower bracket.
4. Remove the shock absorber.
5. Install the new shock absorber with the rod and
shield tube at the top. Install the bolts, washers
and nuts in the lower bracket and the frame
hanger bracket. Install washers at both sides of
each shock bushing, that is four washers per
shock absorber.
6. Tighten the fasteners 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m).

Ride Height Adjustment
General Information IMPORTANT: Any difference in height between

the two sides of the vehicle must be corrected
NOTE: This subject applies only to Hendrickson se- using spacers between the main support arm
ries HAS 190/210/230/40LH/400/402/460 suspen- and the rear axle housing before setting the ve-
sions. hicle ride height. See the appropriate section in
Adjust the vehicle ride height with the unloaded ve- Group 32 in the vehicle’s service manual for the
hicle on a level surface. The frame slope, driveline alignment procedure.
angles, and axle mounting alignment should be 4. Measure the distance from the bottom of the
checked after the ride height has been changed. frame rail to the bottom of the main support arm
at the rear axle U-bolts. See Fig. 1. The correct
CAUTION measurement for Hendrickson HAS suspension
systems is 4-1/4±1/8 inches (108±3 mm) for ve-
Failure to adjust the vehicle ride height could ad- hicles with a specified ride height of 8-1/2 inches
versely affect driveline angles. Also, if the air (215 mm) or greater. For vehicles with less than
springs are set too high, the driver may have dif- an 8-1/2-inch (215 mm) ride height, the distance
ficulty (or be prevented from) backing the vehicle between the bottom of the frame rail and the bot-
under a trailer. If the air springs are set too low, tom of the main support arm must be 2-3/8
rapid wear of driveline parts will result. inches (60 mm).
If the measurement is the same as the specifica-
Ride Height Adjustment tion at each support arm, the ride height is cor-
rectly adjusted. If the distance measured is not
The vehicle ride height for Hendrickson HAS air sus- the same at each rear axle mount on the vehicle,
pension systems is changed by adjusting the length correct this alignment problem before attempting
of the vertical linkage at the ride height control valve. to adjust the ride height.
Use the following procedure to adjust the ride height
of the frame rails.
WARNING
IMPORTANT: Before checking the ride height, The air suspension system will start moving the
make sure there is no load on the chassis. For frame when the lever for the ride height control
tractors, unhitch the trailer. Trucks must be valve is moved from its center position. To avoid
empty when checking the ride height. injury or property damage, make sure that your
1. Stop the vehicle on a level surface, using a light
application of the brakes. Slowly move the ve-
hicle forward and back several times without us- 5. Remove the nut and lockwasher from the ball
ing the brakes to center the suspension joints. joint stud at the end of the lever on the ride
Do not apply the parking brakes. height control valve. See Fig. 2. Separate the
vertical rod assembly from the lever, being care-
2. Put the transmission in neutral. Build the second-
ful to avoid moving the lever while disconnecting
ary air pressure to at least 100 psi (690 kPa).
the ball joint.
Shut down the engine.
6. Push the lever down to lower the frame by re-
NOTE: Allow several minutes for the air pressure
moving the air in the suspension air bags.
to equalize in the system before checking the
ride height. 7. Slowly pull the lever up to raise the frame until
the ride height measurement is exactly correct
3. Mark the location of the front and rear tires on
for the specified ride height.
the floor so that the vehicle can be checked in
the same location after a test drive. Chock the 8. Make sure that the centering hole in the lever
front tires. near its pivot aligns with the centering hole in the
height control valve body. Check the height con-
trol valve to make sure that no air flows through

1 2
01/12/99 f320787
A. Measure ride height here.
1. Bottom of Main Support Arm 2. Bottom of Frame Rail
Fig. 1, Measuring the Ride Height
the ride height control valve when the lever is in 14. Check the adjusted distance between the bottom
the centered position. of the frame and the bottom of the main support
arm at the U-bolts. See Fig. 1.
9. Loosen the jam nuts a few turns at the top and
bottom ball joints on the vertical rod that attaches 15. If the distance is still not correct, loosen the ball
to the height control lever. Note that one of the joint jam nuts on the vertical rod and turn the rod
ball joints and jam nuts has left-hand threads. to adjust the ride height. Lengthen the vertical
Hold the top ball joint with your hand and turn rod to raise the frame or shorten the rod to lower
the vertical rod with a wrench until the top ball the frame to the correct ride height. Drive the
joint stud exactly aligns with the hole in the end vehicle and again check the ride height.
of the lever when the lever is centered horizon-
tally on the control valve. 16. Apply the parking brakes; then remove the
chocks from the tires.
10. Install the ball joint stud in the lever and install
the lockwasher and nut on the stud. Tighten the
nut on the stud to 125 lbf·inch (11 N·cm).
11. Tighten the jam nut on each ball joint without
changing the length of the vertical rod.
12. Apply the parking brakes; then remove the
chocks from the tires. Drive the vehicle unloaded
for about 1/4 mile (1/2 km); then stop the vehicle
in the exact location (as previously marked) of
the original measurement.
13. Park the vehicle using only a light brake applica-
tion. Chock the tires on one axle only and put
the transmission in neutral. Do not apply the
parking brakes.

7
2
12/18/95 f320478
1. Lockwasher and Nut
3. Vertical Rod
4. Leveling Arm Locknut
5. Ride Height Control Valve
6. Brass Air Fitting
7. Air Spring
Fig. 2, Ride Height Control System

Troubleshooting
Problem—All Air Bags Are Deflated

Problem—All Air Bags Are Deflated
The vehicle air system pressure is too low. Run the engine until the air gauge indicates 100 psi (690 kPa).
Air is leaking from the vehicle air system. Listen for air leakage at the air fittings, tanks, and brake componenets. Repair
or replace fittings as needed.
The linkage for the height control valve is Connect the linkage and adjust as described in Subject 180.
disconnected or maladjusted.
The suspension dump valve is activated. Toggle the dump control valve to the normal position.
The relay valve is stuck open. Check and repair the relay valve.
The air bags have a leak. Listen for leaks at the air bags, tubes, and fittings.
The height control valve is not operating Disconnect the linkage and raise and lower the lever to check the operation of
correctly. the height control valve. Make sure that no air flows through the valve when
the lever is in the center position. Replace the valve if it is bad.
There is a obstruction in the lines to the Check the air pressure at theheight control valve supply port. Remove any
height control valve. obstruction or restriction to air flow to the valve.
The pressure protection valve is not Check the operation of the pressure protection valve between the secondary
allowing air to flow to the height control air tank and the height control valve. Replace the valve if it is not operating
valve. correctly.
Problem—One Side of the Vehicle Is Higher Than the Other

Problem—One Side of the Vehicle Is Higher Than the Other
The axle seat spacer thickness is not the Adjust the spacers so that the frame is level before adjusting the ride height.
same on each side.
The load on the vehicle is not distributed Change the position of the load to ensure equal weight on each side.
evenly.
There is an obstruction to air flow to the Disconnect the fittings and test the flow to the air bags on the lower side of
air bags on one side of the vehicle. the vehicle.
The height control valve or relay valve has Check for the same pressure at the ports on each side of the valve. Replace
an internal restriction. the valve if the pressure is not the same.
The air bags or fittings have a leak. Listen for leaks at the air bags, tubes, and fittings. Tighten the fittings, if loose,
or replace any bad parts.
Problem—The Ride Height Is Not Constant

Air is leaking from the air bags or lines. Listen or use soap bubbles to find air leaks. Tighten or replace leaking fittings
or air bags.
The height control valve is not working Make sure that no air is exhausted from the height control valve when the
correctly. lever is in the horizontal position and that the air bags inflate when the lever is
raised. The bags must deflate when the lever is pushed down. There must be
a slight delay between the lever movement and the valve operation. Check for
fluid leaks from the height control valve. Replace the valve if damaged.

Troubleshooting

There is an obstruction to air flow to the Disconnect the fittings and test the flow to the air bags.
air bags.
The height control valve has a restriction Check for air exhausting from the valve when the height control lever is
at the exhaust port. pushed down.
The height control linkage is loose. Make sure that all the jam nuts are tight and that the ball sockets are not
worn.
Problem—The Ride Height Measurement Is Not Correct

Problem—The Ride Height Measurement Is Not Correct
The vehicle is loaded. The ride height of a loaded vehicle will be slightly lower than that of an
unloaded vehicle. Adjust the ride only when the vehicle is unloaded.
The ride height adjustment is not correct. Adjust the ride height as described in Subject 180.
Air is leaking from the air bags or lines. Listen or use soap bubbles to find air leaks. Tighten or replace leaking fittings
or air bags.
The height control valve is not working Make sure that no air is exhausted from the height control valve when the
correctly. lever is in the horizontal position and that the air bags inflate when the lever is
raised. The bags must deflate when the lever is pushed down. There must be
a slight delay between the lever movement and the valve operation. Check for
fluid leaks from the height control valve. Replace the valve if damaged.
There is an obstruction to air flow to the Disconnect the fittings and test the flow to the air bags.
air bags.
The height control valve has a restriction Check for air exhausting from the valve when the height control lever is
at the exhaust port. pushed down.
The height control linkage is loose. Make sure that all the jam nuts are tight and that the ball sockets are not
worn.
Problem—The Air Springs Have Cuts

Problem—The Air Springs Have Cuts
The ride height is adjusted too high. Adjust the ride height so that the air bags are not continually overinflated.
The tires are too wide and are rubbing the Install the correct tires.
air bags.
A shock absorber or mount is broken. Replace any broken components.
Problem—The Vehicle Does Not Track Straight

The axle alignment is not correct. Adjust the alignment with shims at the front of the torque rods.
The bushings in the torque rods are worn. Replace the worn bushings.

Troubleshooting

The bushings in the transverse rods are Replace the worn bushings.
worn.
A shock absorber or mount is broken. Replace any broken components.
The U-bolt high nuts are loose. Periodically tighten the nuts as described in Specifications 400.
The suspension fasteners are loose or Tighten or replace the fasteners.
damaged.
Problem—The Vehicle Vibrates When Driven

Problem—The Vehicle Vibrates When Driven
The ride height is not correct. Adjust the ride height as described in Subject 180.
The axle housing rotational alignment is Adjust the rotational alignment of the axle housing with wedge-shaped shims
not correct. at the axle seats. The driveline U-joint angles must be with 1% of each other.
The shock absorbers are worn or Replace the shock absorbers, if worn, or tighten the mounting fasteners.
disconnected.
The bushings in the torque rods are worn. Replace the worn bushings.
The U-bolt high nuts are loose. Periodically tighten the nuts as described in Specifications 400.
The suspension fasteners are loose or Tighten or replace the fasteners.
damaged.
The frame is not level from front to rear. Check and adjust the ride height at the front suspension and each rear axle.
The frame should not slope more than 1/2 inch (13 mm). Correct the ride
height if not at specifications.

Specifications
For an overview of the Hendrickson HAS air system

plumbing, see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
Torque Values
Stage 2: 60 (81) *
7/8–14 Stage 3: 200 (271) *
Stage 4: 420 to 500 (571 to
680) *
U-bolt High Nuts
Stage 2: 60 (81) *
1–14 Stage 3: 200 (271) *
Stage 4: 520 to 600 (707 to
816) *
Torque Rod Bar Pin Locknut 5/8–11 180 (244)
Axle Seat Stud 5/8–11 65 (88)
Rebound Bolt Locknut 1/2–13 60 (81)
Shock Absorber Locknut, Upper 1/2–13 60 (81)
Shock Absorber Locknut, Lower 3/4–10 60 (81)
Cross Channel to Main Support Member
3/4–10 290 (393)
Locknut
Air Spring to Frame Hanger Locknut 1/2–13 25 (34)
Air Spring to Cross Channel Locknut 1/2–13 25 (34)
Transverse Rod Locknut 1-1/4–12 200 (271)
Extension Arm Jam Nut 5/16–24 125 (169)
Extension Arm Locknut 5/16–24 125 (169)

Specifications
3
2
1
8 5
7
6
06/16/99 f320803
NOTE: The height control valve was moved to the forward axle on later HAS systems.
1. Switch Control Valve 4. Air Supply Line 7. Leveling Valve Extension Arm
2. Air Tank 5. Height Control Valve 8. Air Signal Line
3. Pressure Protection Valve 6. Quick Release Valve
Fig. 1, Suspension Air Plumbing

Specifications
1 4
3
2 8
7
8
06/14/99 f040439
1. Constant Air Supply 4. Dump Indicator Switch (optional) 7. Secondary Air Reservoir
2. Pressure Protection Valve 5. Relay Valve (optional) 8. Air Springs
3. Dump Control Valve (optional) 6. Height Control Valve
Fig. 2, Air Suspension Dump System Schematic (typical)
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783

Rear Suspension, Neway® Air Ride, Models AD-123 and
AD-246 32.16
General Information
General Description
The Neway Air Ride Suspension is a single axle
(Model AD–123; see Fig. 1) or tandem axle (Model
AD–246; see Fig. 2) suspension that uses air
springs. The top of each air spring is bolted to a
frame-rail bracket, and the bottom of each spring is
attached to a suspension crossmember. The suspen-
sion crossmember is attached to the rear ends of two
equalizing beams which carry the axle. The forward
ends of the equalizing beams are journaled to brack-
ets bolted on the frame rail.
Both models of the suspension allow for vertical 02/02/96 f320515
travel. The maximum loading capacity of the single
axle model is 22,500 pounds (10 000 kg); and the Fig. 1, Single Axle Suspension, Model AD-123
maximum loading capacity for the tandem axle model
is 44,000 pounds (20 000 kg). trol lever down to simulate overinflated air springs.
The valve will vent the air from the springs.
The Neway suspension maintains a stable, level ride
by adjusting the air spring height according to vehicle
load and road conditions. A height control valve
mounted inside the frame rail is linked to the suspen-
sion crossmembers and monitors ride height in rela-
tion to the crossmember. See Fig. 3. If the load is
riding too high, the suspension crossmember pulls
the valve’s control lever down, and the valve lowers
the load by venting air from the springs. See Fig. 4.
If the load rides too low, the suspension crossmem-
ber pushes the valve’s control lever up, and the
valve raises the load by delivering air to the springs.
The air springs and the shocks mounted between the
axle and the frame rails absorb road shock.
The design of the height control valve allows a sev-
eral second delay between delivering air to and vent-
ing air from the air springs. This prevents the valve
from reacting to abrupt axle movements caused by
the condition of the road surface.
A torque rod ( Fig. 3) connects each axle housing to
a frame crossmember to prevent torque-induced ro-
tation of the axle. A similar control rod ( Fig. 3) con-
nects each axle housing to a frame rail to prevent
the axle from moving laterally.
If the air springs lose pressure, a solid rubber
bumper inside the spring will support the vehicle until
it can be repaired. Do not drive the vehicle over 30
mph (50 km/h) with the air springs deflated, and
drive it only as far as the nearest service facility. To
deflate the air springs, disconnect the control lever
arm from the linkage rod, and press the valve’s con-

32.16 AD-246
General Information
02/02/96 f320514
Fig. 2, Tandem Axle Suspension, Model AD-246

AD-246 32.16
General Information
8 9
4 6
6
4
11
10 8
7 4
14
3 6 4
4
8 15
6 12
13 4
16 6
2
2
6 8
1
6
31 4
4
5 8
4 17
2 2
4 4 18
30
6 19
6 4
21
20
4
29
8
22
28
23
27
26
25 24
07/31/96 f320512a
1. Rod Bolt, 1-1/8–7 x 9-1/4 11. Control Rod Axle Bracket 22. Lock Washer
2. Adaptor Bushing 12. Torque Rod Axle Bracket 23. Hexnut, 1/2–13
3. Frame Bracket 13. Control Rod 24. Hexnut, 2-1/4–8
4. Spacer Washer 14. Control Rod Frame Bracket 25. Tab Washer
5. Equalizing Beam Front Bushing 15. Axle Alignment Shim(s) 26. Spacer Washer
6. Locknut 16. Shock Absorber Frame Bracket 27. Transverse Beam Bushing
7. Frame Rail 17. Shock Absorber 28. Spacer Washer
8. Rod Bolt, 3/4–10 x 7-1/2 18. Air Spring Upper Mounting Plate 29. Equalizing Beam
9. Torque Rod Crossmember 19. Air Spring 30. Equalizing Beam Center Bushing
Bracket 20. Air Spring Lower Mounting Plate 31. Beam Hanger Bracket
10. Torque Rod 21. Transverse Beam

32.16 AD-246
General Information
3
2
4
5
7
6
05/31/2005 f320183a
1. Airflow to Spring 5. Control Lever

2. Exhaust to 6. Linkage
Atmosphere 7. Airflow from Air
3. Nylon Block Reservoir

AD-246 32.16
Height Control Valve Adjustment
Adjustment 6. Disconnect the control lever from the linkage,

and press it down to deflate the air springs about
1. Park the unloaded or evenly loaded vehicle on a halfway. Reconnect the linkage to inflate the air
level surface. Run the engine until the air brake springs, then check the height dimension. Re-
system is fully charged. Chock the tires. peat the step above and this step until the height
dimension measures 10 inches (25 cm).
2. Remove the bolt that secures the height control
valve linkage to the control lever of each valve. 7. When the height control valve is adjusted, dis-
See Fig. 1. Disconnect the linkages from the connect the control lever from the height control
control levers. valve linkage, and push it down to the vertical
position to fully deflate the air spring.
3. Exhaust all air from the air springs by pushing
the control levers down to the vertical position. 8. Repeat the previous four steps on the other
height control valve(s).
4. Connect one of the control levers to its respec-
tive linkage, and allow the air spring(s) controlled 9. Connect all linkage assemblies to the control le-
by the lever to fill until the valve shuts off. vers. All height dimensions should now be equal.
If they aren’t, check for loose mounting bolt nuts
5. Measure the distance from the underside of the on the height control valves. Tighten any loose
frame rail to the centerline of the axle nearest nuts or capscrews. Repeat the adjustment proce-
the inflated spring. This dimension should be 10 dures until all height dimensions are 10 inches
inches (25 cm). Adjust the height control valve by (25 cm).
loosening the adjustment locknut (see Fig. 1)
and moving the control lever slightly, relative to
the nylon block. When the 10-inch (25-cm) height
dimension is achieved, retighten the adjustment
locknut.
3
2
4
5
7
6
05/31/2005 f320183a


AD-246 32.16

ment. Open the stopcocks on the air tanks to
drain the air system.
from the rear axles, and place safety stands to
secure the vehicle in its raised position. When
raised, the height control valves will vent all air
from the air springs.
3. Taking care to prevent foreign substances from
entering the line or fitting, disconnect the air sup-
ply line from the air spring.
4. Remove the locknut, hexnut, and washers that
secure the air spring to the air spring upper
mounting plate. See Fig. 1
5. Remove the capscrews and lockwashers that
connect the air spring to the air spring lower
mounting plate on the transverse beam. Remove
the air spring.
6. Position the new air spring on the air spring
lower mounting plate, then install the capscrews
and lockwashers to secure the air spring to the
lower mounting plate. Tighten the capscrews to
the torque under Specifications 400.
7. Install the locknut, hexnut, and washers previ-
ously removed, to connect the air spring to the
air spring upper mounting plate. Tighten the nuts
to the torque under Specifications 400.
8. Connect the air supply line to the air spring.
10. There must be 10 inches (25 cm) between the
bottom of the frame rail and the centerline of the
axle. Adjust the height control valve adjustment;
for instructions, see Subject 100.

32.16 AD-246
8 9
4 6
6
4
11
10 8
7 4
14
3 6 4
4
8 15
6 12
13 4
16 6
2
2
6 8
1
6
31 4
4
5 8
4 17
2 2
4 4 18
30
6 19
6 4
21
20
4
29
8
22
28
23
27
26
25 24
07/31/96 f320512a

AD-246 32.16

1. Remove the locknuts from the shock absorber
upper and lower mounting brackets.
2. If the shock absorber is fully extended, chock the
vehicle wheels and jack up the axle to relieve
tension from the shock. Remove the shock ab-
sorber. If the inner metal sleeve is rusted to the
mounting pin, use a small, sharp chisel to force
the sleeve from the pin.
3. Install the new shock absorber on the mounting
pins and secure it with the locknuts and washers
previously removed. Tighten the locknuts to the
torque under Specifications 400.

32.16 AD-246
8 9
4 6
6
4
11
10 8
7 4
14
3 6 4
4
8 15
6 12
13 4
16 6
2
2
6 8
1
6
31 4
4
5 8
4 17
2 2
4 4 18
30
6 19
6 4
21
20
4
29
8
22
28
23
27
26
25 24
07/31/96 f320512a

AD-246 32.16

1. Chock the front tires. 1. Make sure the adaptor bushings are installed in
the frame bracket.
from the rear suspension, and place safety 2. Position the equalizing beam with its front bush-
stands to secure the vehicle in its raised position. ing centered in the frame bracket. Push the rod
bolt into the frame bracket while inserting the
3. Remove the rear wheels and tires for access to
spacer washers into their original positions be-
the suspension. Block the axle securely to pre- tween the equalizing beam and the frame
vent it from dropping away from the vehicle as
bracket.
the equalizing beam is removed.
NOTE: See Subject 190 for placement of the
4. With the weight removed from the suspension,
the air springs should be fully deflated. If they spacer washers if their positions were not re-
aren’t, disconnect the height control valve linkage corded during removal of the equalizer beam.
from the height control valve control lever. Push 3. Lubricate the threads of the rod bolt with
the lever down to the vertical position to deflate SAE–20 oil, then install the locknut. Tighten the
the air springs. locknut to the torque under Specifications 400.
5. Remove the capscrews and lockwashers that 4. Raise the equalizing beam so the center bushing
secure the air springs to the air spring lower is centered in the beam hanger bracket. Insert
mounting plates on both ends of the transverse the beam hanger adaptor bushings through the
beam. See Fig. 1. beam hanger bracket and into the equalizing
6. Remove the cotter pins, locknuts, flatwashers, beam center bushing.
and retainer washers from the studs in the ends 5. With a flatwasher under the head,insert the rod
of the equalizing beams. Tap the transverse bolt through the beam hanger adaptor bushings
beam back from the ends of the equalizing with the threaded end on the outboard side of
beams. the suspension.
NOTE: In some cases, the transverse beam 6. Lubricate the center bushing bolt threads with
bushings will stick, making it difficult to remove SAE–20 oil, then install the flatwasher and lock-
the transverse beam from the equalizing beams. nut on the bolt. Tighten the locknut to the torque
Use a Porta-Power, or equivalent tool, between under Specifications 400.
the axle housing and the transverse beam at a 7. Lubricate the transverse beam bushings with
point as near to the end of the transverse beam rubber lubricant, soap and water solution, or a
as possible to remove the beam. waterless hand cleaner. Install the inner halves
7. Remove the locknut and washer from the out- of the bushings with their thicker ends toward the
board end of the rod bolt. Support the equalizing front of the vehicle.
beam on a floor jack, then extract the equalizing 8. Install the transverse beam on the equalizing
beam center bushing bolt from the beam hanger beams, with the air spring lower mounting plates
bracket. tilted toward the rear of the vehicle. Install the
8. Use a drift to tap the adaptor bushings from the outer halves of the transverse beam bushings on
beam hanger bracket. Lower the equalizing the equalizer beam journals.
beam to the floor. 9. Apply SAE–20 oil to the threads on the studs at
9. Remove the locknut from the inboard end of the the rear of the equalizing beams. Install the re-
bolt. Note the positions of the spacer washers at tainer washers, flatwashers and locknuts on the
either side of the equalizing beam so they can studs. Tighten the locknuts to the low end of the
be reassembled in their original positions. Use a torque ranges under Specifications 400. Install
drift to drive the rod bolt out of the frame bracket. the cotter pins and lock them in place. Tighten
Remove the equalizing beam from the vehicle. the locknuts further if it’s necessary in order to
install the cotter pins.

32.16 AD-246
8 9
4 6
6
4
11
10 8
7 4
14
3 6 4
4
8 15
6 12
13 4
16 6
2
2
6 8
1
6
31 4
4
5 8
4 17
2 2
4 4 18
30
6 19
6 4
21
20
4
29
8
22
28
23
27
26
25 24
07/31/96 f320512a

AD-246 32.16
10. Apply SAE–20 oil to the threads of the cap-

screws that secure the air springs to the air
spring lower mounting plates. Position the air
springs on the plates and install the capscrews
and lockwashers. Tighten the capscrews to the

AD-246 32.16

1. Remove the equalizing beam. See Subject 130.
WARNING
Do not use a torch to cut the bushing sleeve out
of the equalizing beam. To do so could weaken
the casting, possibly resulting in loss of vehicle
control and personal injury.
2. Using a hydraulic press, apply 2000 to 3000
pounds (907 to 1 361 kg) pressure to remove the
equalizing beam front and center bushings. See
Fig. 1.
3. Using a wire brush and solvent, clean out the
equalizing beam bushing receptacles. Inspect the
entire beam for cracks or bends. Replace any
damaged equalizing beam with a new one.
4. Lubricate the replacement bushings and the
bushing receptacles with a non-mineral lubricant.
If standard rubber lubricant is not available, use
a soap and water solution or a waterless hand
cleaner.
5. Press the replacement bushings into the bushing
receptacles with a hydraulic press. Press the
bushings slightly past center, then turn the equal-
izing beam over and press the bushings back to
a centered position.
6. Install the equalizing beam. See Subject 130.

32.16 AD-246
8 9
4 6
6
4
11
10 8
7 4
14
3 6 4
4
8 15
6 12
13 4
16 6
2
2
6 8
1
6
31 4
4
5 8
4 17
2 2
4 4 18
30
6 19
6 4
21
20
4
29
8
22
28
23
27
26
25 24
07/31/96 f320512a

AD-246 32.16
Control Rod Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal 7
8
1. Apply the parking brakes. 9
3 4 5 10
2. Remove the locknuts and flatwashers (see 11
Fig. 1) from the bolts that secure the control rod 1 12
frame bracket to the frame rail. To ease reas-
sembly, note the order of the axle alignment 2
shims between the control rod frame bracket and 6
6
the backing plate. 1 1 13
3. Remove the control rod frame bracket bolts. 14
Swing the control rod clear, and remove the axle 6 7
alignment shims and the bracket. 1
4. Remove the locknut and flatwasher from the ball 15
stud on the inboard end of the control rod. Rap
the ball stud eye on the control rod axle bracket
with a hammer to loosen the ball stud. If this fails 16 2 1
to break it loose, use a tie-rod separator tool to 02/12/96 f320176a
remove the ball stud from the control rod axle
1. Flatwasher, 5/8-inch 9. Locknut, 1-1/4–12
bracket. Remove the control rod. 2. Bolt, 5/8-11 x 5–1/2 10. Ball Stud
5. Remove the seals from both ends of the control Inch 11. Control Rod Axle
rod. Clean the seals and rod to remove all dirt 3. Axle Plane Shim(s) Bracket
4. Torque Rod 12. Torque Rod Axle
and grease.
Crossmember Bracket
Bracket 13. Bolt, 5/8–11 x 4 Inch
Inspection 5. Torque Rod 14. Control Rod
6. Locknut, 5/8–18 15. Control Rod Frame
7. Seal Bracket
Inspect the seals for dryness, cracks, or other signs
8. Flatwasher, 1-1/4 16. Axle Alignment
of deterioration and wear. Replace damaged seals Inch Shim(s)
with new ones. Visually inspect the control rod for
cracks or bends. Work the ball joint and control rod Fig. 1, Control Rod Mounting
pin to check for looseness in the bushings. If the
control rod is bent, cracked, or otherwise damaged, 3. Position the control rod frame bracket and the
or if there is any slack in either of the bushings, re- axle alignment shims against the backing plate
place the control rod with a new one. on the inside of the frame rail. Move the control
rod into position on the control rod frame
bracket.
Installation
4. Install flatwashers on the control rod frame
1. Lubricate all control rod and fastener threads bracket bolts, then install the bolts through the
with SAE–20 oil, and install the seals ( frame rail, the shims, the control rod frame
see Fig. 1) removed from the rod ends. bracket, and the control rod. Install the flatwash-
ers and locknuts on the bolts, and tighten the
2. Insert the control rod ball stud through the con- locknuts to the torque under Specifica-
trol rod axle bracket, then install the flatwasher tions, 400.
and locknut on the stud. Tighten the locknut to
the torque under Specifications, 400, then rap 5. Check the alignment of the axle. See Sub-
the control rod axle mount with a hammer. ject 180 for instructions.
Tighten the locknut again to the torque under

AD-246 32.16
Torque Rod Removal, Inspection, and Installation
Removal 3. Remove the torque rod crossmember bracket

bolts. Swing the torque rod clear of the torque
rod crossmember bracket, and remove the axle
1. Apply the parking brakes.
plane shims together with the torque rod cross-
member bracket.
WARNING 4. Remove the locknuts and flatwashers from the
WARNING: When the torque rods are discon- bolts that secure the torque rod to the torque rod
nected from the axle brackets, the axles become axle bracket . Remove the bolts. Remove the
free to pivot on the equalizer beam end bushings. torque rod from the vehicle.
to avoid possible injury. Inspection
2. Remove the locknuts and the flatwashers (see
Fig. 1) from the bolts that secure the torque rod Inspect the torque rod for bends or cracks. Work the
crossmember bracket to the vehicle frame cross- torque rod pins to check for looseness in the polyure-
member. For ease of installation, note the order thane bushings. If the torque rod is bent, cracked, or
of the axle plane shims between the torque rod otherwise damaged, replace it with a new one. If ei-
crossmember bracket and the frame crossmem- ther of the polyurethane bushings is loose, replace
ber. the bushing with a new one. For instructions, see
Subject 170.
7
8
9
Installation
3 4 5 10
11 1. Lubricate all torque rod and fastener threads with
1 12 SAE–20 oil.
2. Position the torque rod against the torque rod
2
axle bracket (see Fig. 1). Slip a flatwasher over
6 each of the two bolts, then insert the bolts
6
1 1 13 through the torque rod axle bracket and the
14 torque rod.
6 7 3. Install the flatwashers and locknuts on the torque
1 rod axle bracket bolts. Tighten the locknuts to the
15 torque under Specifications, 400.
4. Position the torque rod crossmember bracket
and the axle plane shims against the frame
16 2 1 crossmember, and move the torque rod into
02/12/96 f320176a place on the torque rod crossmember bracket.
1. Flatwasher, 5/8-inch 9. Locknut, 1-1/4–12 5. Install flatwashers on the bolts, and install the
2. Bolt, 5/8–11 x 5-1/2 10. Ball Stud bolts through the frame crossmember, the shims,
Inch 11. Control Rod Axle
the torque rod crossmember bracket, and the
3. Axle Plane Shim(s) Bracket
4. Torque Rod 12. Torque Rod Axle torque rod. Install flatwashers and locknuts on
Crossmember Bracket the bolts, and tighten the locknuts to the torque
Bracket 13. Bolt, 5/8–11 x 4 Inch under Specifications, 400.
5. Torque Rod 14. Control Rod
6. Locknut, 5/8–18 15. Control Rod Frame
7. Seal Bracket
8. Flatwasher, 1-1/4 16. Axle Alignment
Inch Shim(s)
Fig. 1, Torque Rod Mounting

AD-246 32.16
Replacement 4. Center the torque rod eye on the tool base, and
insert the plunger tool into the polyurethane
bushing. See Fig. 2. Press the bushing into the
NOTE: In order to replace the torque rod poly- torque rod eye.
urethane bushings, you need special installation
tool kit P–097–009. This tool kit can be pur-
chased from Freightliner, or it can be machined,
using the dimensions given in Specifica- 1
tions, 400.
1. Remove the snap ring and washer from each
side of the bushing to be removed. See Fig. 1.
2
Note that the torque rod eye has a smaller shoul-
der on one side than on the other, and the larger
shoulder has a rounded edge around the inside 3
of the eye. The polyurethane bushing must be
pressed in and out through the larger side.
B 4
3
2
A
4
02/02/96 f320177a
5 1. Plunger 3. Insertion Sleeve

2. Polyurethane 4. Torque Rod
Bushing 5. Base
Fig. 2, Torque Rod Bushing Installation

1 4
04/09/96 f320170a
5. Install the snap ring and flatwasher on one end
A. Detail
of the torque rod pin, with the sharp edges of the
B. Install washer and snap ring with sharp edges to
outside. washer and the snap ring facing the outward end
of the pin. See Fig. 1.
1. Snap Ring 4. Washer
2. Pressing Sleeve 5. Torque Rod 6. Press the torque rod pin into the torque rod
3. Snap Ring bushing from the same side as the bushing was
Fig. 1, Bushing Snap Ring Installation pressed into the torque rod eye. Make sure the
snap ring seats. Do not lubricate the torque rod
2. Using the plunger from the special tool kit on a pin.
hydraulic press, press the old bushing out of the
7. Turn the torque rod over and install a flatwasher,
torque rod eye. Clean all dirt, grease, or foreign
with the sharp edge facing away from the bush-
matter from the torque rod.
ing; then install the other snap ring onto the
3. Coat the replacement bushing with a non-mineral outer shoulder of the pin, with the sharp edge
lubricant, such as rubber lubricant or waterless facing outward.
hand cleaner. Position the bushing in the larger
8. Place a pressing sleeve over the end of the
end of the insertion sleeve from the tool kit, then
torque rod pin, then seat the snap ring. See
fit the beveled (smaller) end of the sleeve into
Fig. 1.
the larger side of the torque rod eye.

32.16 AD-246
9. After assembly, press the torque rod pin slightly

to center it in the torque rod eye.
There should be no slack on either side of the
polyurethane bushing, and the bushing should be
compressed by about half the thickness of the
snap ring. If necessary, install a second washer
under one of the snap rings to compress the
bushing.

AD-246 32.16
Lateral Alignment (See Fig. 1) with engine oil; tighten the locknuts to the
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface; then position 9. On tandem axle installations, do the previous
the front tires straight ahead and chock them. three steps on the other axle.
Release the parking brakes, and place the trans-
mission in neutral. 10. On suspensions equipped with an axle alignment
feature (alignment bushings welded to slotted
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle until the tires clear frame brackets), proceed to Subject 190.
the ground, then place safety stands under the
rear of the vehicle to hold it in this position. On suspensions not equipped with an axle align-
ment feature, no further checking is required.
3. Check the wheel bearing adjustment. See Apply the parking brakes; then remove the
Group 35 for instructions. Adjust or replace the chocks from the tires.
wheel bearings as needed.
4. Measure the lateral runout of the rear wheels. If
the runout on any wheel exceeds 0.18 inch (4.6
mm), replace the wheel before proceeding with
the axle alignment check.
5. Remove the safety stands and lower the rear of
the vehicle. Relieve any internal stresses in the
suspension by jacking the axles up and letting
them down; or, remove the tire chocks, then
move the vehicle back and forth (with the inter-
axle differential disengaged).
6. On either rear axle, measure the distance be-
tween the left frame rail and the nearest point on
the inside wheel rim. See Fig. 2, Dimension A.
7. On the same axle, measure the distance be-
tween the right frame rail and the nearest point
on the inside wheel rim (see Fig. 2, Dimension
B).
8. Compare Dimension A with Dimension B. If
they’re within 1/8 inch (3.25 mm) of being equal,
alignment is not necessary. However, if they’re
different by more than 1/8 inch (3.25 mm), adjust
the lateral alignment.
8.1 Loosen the locknuts on the bolts that se-
cure the lateral rod mount to the frame
rail.
8.2 Add or remove one axle alignment shim
for each 1/8 inch (3.25 mm) difference
between Dimensions A and B. Adding
shims will decrease the measurement on
the side of the vehicle to which the lateral
rod is attached, and removing shims will
increase the measurement.
8.3 After installing the shims, lubricate the
threads on the lateral rod mount bolts

32.16 AD-246
8 9
4 6
6
4
11
10 8
7 4
14
3 6 4
4
8 15
6 12
13 4
16 6
2
2
6 8
1
6
31 4
4
5 8
4 17
2 2
4 4 18
30
6 19
6 4
21
20
4
29
8
22
28
23
27
26
25 24
07/31/96 f320512a

AD-246 32.16
A B
D C
02/23/96 f320182a
NOTE: Dimension A equals Dimension B plus or minus
1/8-inch (3.25 mm)
A. Dimension A (forward rear axle)
B. Dimension B (forward rear axle)
C. Dimension C (rearmost axle)
D. Dimension D (rearmost axle)
E. Measure Here
Fig. 2, Rear Axle Lateral Alignment

AD-246 32.16
Parallel Alignment 3.4 Position the alignment bushings in the

frame bracket; then raise the equalizing
1. Check and, if needed, adjust the lateral align- beam until the front eye is aligned with
ment of the rear axle(s) before checking parallel the frame bracket. Install the spacer
alignment. See Subject 180 for instructions. washers and pivot connection bolt and
locknut. Position the spacer washers. See
2. Check the axles for parallel alignment. See Fig. 2. Suspension installations which
Group 35 for instructions. have a 1/4-inch (6-mm) frame-rail spacer
between the forward frame-rail bracket
3. Adjust the rear axle, if necessary.
and the frame rail will require one spacer
3.1 Using jack stands, support the vehicle washer on each side of the equalizing
frame at normal ride height. Disconnect beam. Installations without a frame-rail
both height control valve linkages from spacer require two spacer washers on the
their respective control levers. See Fig. 1. inboard side of the equalizing beam.
Then exhaust all air from all air springs
3.5 Move the axle forward or backward by
by pushing the valve control levers down.
rolling the wheels on that side of the ve-
3.2 Remove the equalizing beam pivot con- hicle (only that side), until the correct axle
nection locknut and bolt, and both spacer alignment is obtained.
washers. See Fig. 2. Lower the equaliz-
3.6 With the axle aligned and the vehicle
ing beam from the frame bracket.
frame supported at normal ride height,
3.3 Cut the welds off of the alignment bush- torque the equalizing beam front bushing
ings on both sides of the frame bracket. locknut to the torque under Specifica-
Remove the alignment bushings; then tions, 400.
grind any remaining weld material off of
3.7 Weld both of the alignment bushings to
the frame bracket and alignment bush-
the frame bracket, using AWS spec
ings.
E7018 welding rod or Linde 3/32 FC 72
wire weld, or an equivalent. Weld (1/4-
inch fillet) each bushing with three, 3/4-
inch (19-mm) long welds. See Fig. 2.
3
4. Connect the linkages to their respective control
2 levers.
1 5. Apply the parking brakes; then remove the jack

stands from the frame and the chocks from the
tires.
4
5
7
6
05/31/2005 f320183a


32.16 AD-246
1 1
2 6
AA CC
3 7
BB DD
A B
7
EE
02/12/98
C f320079a
A. Without Frame Rail Spacer, With B. With Frame Rail Spacer, With C. With Frame Rail Spacer, Without
Alignment Bushings Alignment Bushings Alignment Bushings
1. Alignment Bushings 4. Delrin Spacer
2. Two Spacer Washers on the Inboard Side of the 5. 1/4-inch Frame Rail Spacer
Beam 6. One Spacer Washer on Each Side of the Beam
3. Rod Bolt, 1-1/8–12 7. Rod Bolt, 1-1/4–12
AA.Measurement: 0.50" (12.7 mm) Axle Alignment Adjustment
BB.Weld: Three places approximately 3/4" (19 mm) long
CC.Measurement: 0.25" (6.4 mm) Axle Alignment Adjustment
DD.Weld: Three places approximately 3/4" (19 mm) long
EE.No Axle Alignment Adjustment
Fig. 2, Spacer Washer Installation and Alignment Bushing Welding

AD-246 32.16
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
Problem—Air Springs Are Flat
Problem—Air Springs Are Flat
Low air pressure in the vehicle brake Check the air pressure gauge on the instrument panel. If the air pressure is
system. low, run the engine until a minimum pressure of 70 psi (483 kPa) is shown on
the gauge.
Air leaking from the suspension air Listen for leakage due to loose fittings or damaged air lines, air springs, brake
system or the air brake system. actuators or control valves. Tighten loose fittings or replace worn or damaged
air lines with new ones.
Problem—Air Spring(s) Flat on One Side of the Vehicle

Problem—Air Spring(s) Flat on One
Side of the Vehicle
Air leakage between the pressure holding Listen for leakage due to loose fittings or damaged air lines. Tighten loose
valve and the air spring(s). fittings or replace damaged lines with new ones.
Air spring leaking. Inspect the air spring for leaks caused by damage, wear, or deterioration. If
any air spring is leaking, install a new one.
Bent, broken, or disconnected height Inspect the linkage for damaged or loose parts. Reconnect loose linkage parts
control valve linkage. or replace damaged parts with new ones.
Inoperative height control valve. If movement of the control lever in the previous step fails to inflate the air
spring, the height control valve is damaged. Replace the valve.
Problem—Tractor Leans Due to Unequal Inflation of the Air Springs

Problem—Tractor Leans Due to
Unequal Inflation of the Air Springs
Damaged height control valve linkage. Inspect the height control valves and linkages for damage. Repair or replace
damaged parts.
Loose or missing height control valve Inspect for damage to the height control valve mounting bolts or adjustment
bolts or adjustment locknut. locknut. Replace any missing bolts or nuts, then adjust the height control
valve.
Height control valve out of adjustment. Adjust the height control valve.

32.16 AD-246
Troubleshooting
Problem—Air Springs Deflate Rapidly When the Vehicle Is Parked

Problem—Air Springs Deflate Rapidly
When the Vehicle Is Parked
Air leakage from the suspension air Listen for leakage due to loose fittings or damaged air lines, air springs, or
system. height control valves. Tighten loose fittings and replace worn or damaged
parts with new ones.
Problem—Tractor Rides Too High or Too Low

Problem—Tractor Rides Too High or
Too Low

Air spring cut or punctured. Locate large leaks by listening for escaping air, and locate small leaks by
applying a soap and water solution to the suspected air spring and watching
for bubbles. Temporarily repair punctures or cuts less than 1/8-inch (3-mm)
long by applying hot patches on both sides of the hole. If the cut is more than
1/8-inch (3-mm) long, install a new air spring.
Tires, rims, or chains rubbing the air Check the clearance between the air spring and the tire. If the tire, rim, or
spring. chains contact the inflated air spring, change to narrower tires and rims to
provide clearance for tires with chains.
Air brake actuator rubbing against the air Relocate the brake actuator with factory approved parts to provide adequate
spring. clearance.
Problem—Air Spring Deflated Due to Fatigue

Problem—Air Spring Deflated Due to
Fatigue
Driving the vehicle too long or too fast If the vehicle must be driven with the air springs deflated, maintain a speed of
with the air springs deflated. less than 30 mph (48 km/h), and drive only as far as the nearest repair facility.
Continual or repeated overextension of Inspect for broken or loose shock absorbers or shock absorber mounting
the air springs. brackets. Reconnect loose parts and replace any damaged parts. Check the
adjustment on the height control valve.

AD-246 32.16
Troubleshooting
Problem—Air Spring Doesn’t Fully Deflate When All Weight Is Removed from the Suspension
Problem—Air Spring Doesn’t Fully
Deflate When All Weight Is Removed
from the Suspension
Restricted air line between the height Disconnect the height control valve linkage, and push the control lever down.
control valve and the air spring. If the air spring remains inflated, check for a pinched or blocked line. Clean
out any plugged line and replace any damaged line.

AD-246 32.16
Specifications

Shock Absorber Mount Locknut 3/4–16 110–150 (149–203)
Air Spring Upper Mounting Plate Locknut 3/4–16 31–42 (42–57)
Air Spring Upper Mounting Plate Capscrew 1/2–13 31–42 (42–57)
Air Spring Lower Mounting Plate Capscrew 1/2–13 31–42 (42–57)
Transverse Beam Bushing Locknuts 1-1/4–12 600–700 (814–950)
Equalizing Beam Center Bushing Locknut 3/4–16 150–200 (203–271)
1-1/8–12 600–700 (814–950)
Equalizing Beam Front Bushing Locknut
1-1/4–12
Control Rod Ball Stud Locknut 1-1/8–12 550–650 (746–880)
Control and Torque Rod Mounting Locknuts 5/8–18 110–150 (149–203)
Table 1, Suspension Torque Specifications (lubricated threads)
See Fig. 1 and Table 2 for the bushing installation

tool.
Tool Dimensions Material

A Bar, 2.00" Diameter (51 mm) Mild Steel
B Tube, 3.50" (89 mm) o.d. x 0.75" (19 mm) wall Mild Steel
C Bar, 3.00" Diameter (76 mm) Mild Steel
Table 2, Bushing Installation Tool Materials

32.16 AD-246
Specifications
1.50
7.25 1
0.12
B
2
0.50
3
C
1.75
4
5
1.25
2.00
3.50
2.42 A
3
60° 0.25
B
2.88
1.12
0.12 2.11 0.12

2.22 B
1.81 C
5 .12
3.12
3.00
02/23/96 f320080a
1. Plunger 3. Insertion Sleeve 5. Base
2. Bushing 4. Torque Rod
A. Detail B. Radius C. Minimum Radius
Fig. 1, Bushing Installation Tool

Freightliner TufTrac™ Suspension 32.17
General Information
General Description
The TufTrac Suspension (Fig. 1) is heavy-duty "six
rod" tandem-axle suspension option for trucks built
for severe on/off highway work. The TufTrac design
allows a truck to maneuver over bumps, ridges and
washboard roads that typically generate high rates of
axle articulation, without bottoming out the suspen-
sion or losing traction.
The TufTrac suspension is available in three weight
ratings — 40,000-, 46,000- and 52,000-pound (18
144-, 20 865-, 23 586-kilogram) capacities. The
40,000-pound (18 144-kilogram) capacity suspension
uses two taper leaf springs and has an axle spacing
of 54 inches. The 46,000-pound (20 865-kilogram)
capacity suspension has three leaf springs (shown in
this section), while the 52,000-pound (23 586-
kilogram) suspension features four leaf springs. Both
the 46,000-pound (20 865-kilogram) and the 52,000-
pound (23 586-kilogram) suspensions have a stan-
dard axle spacing of 56 inches.
Six functional links in the TufTrac suspension main-
tain the positions of the axles. Side-to-side axle
movement is controlled by two v-rods from the frame
to the axles at the top of the suspension. Four bar
links from the frame to the axles at the bottom con-
trol the forces of driving and braking as well as fore-
and-aft road shocks. Vertical loads are carried by the
rubber-isolated parabolic taper leaf spring packs.

32.17 Freightliner TufTrac™ Suspension
General Information
1 1
4 4
07/01/99 f310804
1. Axle Clamps 4. Lower Control Rods
2. Leaf Springs 5. Rebound Stop
3. Center Bearing
Fig. 1, TufTrac Suspension (46,000-pound [20 865-kilogram] version shown)

Replacement
the engine and apply the parking brakes. Chock
the tires.
2. Remove the lower shock mounting nut and
washer. See Fig. 1.
3. Remove the upper shock mounting nut and
washer.
4. Remove the upper and lower mounting bolts and
remove the shock absorber.
5. Position the new shock absorber in place and
install the mounting bolts.
6. Loosely fasten the bolts with the nuts and wash-
ers removed from the old shock absorber.
7. Torque each mounting nut 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
1
1
2 2
3
3
4
4
05/07/99 f320797
1. Mounting Bolt 3. Shock Absorber
2. Upper Mounting Bracket 4. Lower Mounting Bracket
Fig. 1, Shock Absorber Replacement

Center Bearing Replacement
Replacement 6. Remove the lower center bearing bolts attached

to the spring assembly casting. Discard the bolts.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down 7. Remove the center bearing. See Fig. 3.
the engine and apply the parking brakes. Chock
the tires. 8. Position the new center bearing in the mounting
bracket.
2. Remove the rebound stop from the suspension.
See Fig. 1. 9. Install the upper mounting bolts and tighten 68
1 1
4 4
07/01/99 f310804
1. Axle Clamps 4. Lower Control Rods
2. Leaf Springs 5. Rebound Stop
3. Center Bearing
Fig. 1, TufTrac Suspension (46,000-pound [20 865-kilogram] version shown)

2.1 Remove the nut and bolt securing the lbf·ft (92 N·m).
rebound stop to the mounting bracket.
10. With the jack, raise the rear axle until bottom of
2.2 Slide the rebound stop from the mounting the center bearing meets the mounting bracket
bracket. on the leaf springs.
3. Remove the upper two fasteners on the center IMPORTANT: Be sure to use new bolts with loc-
bearing. tite (p/n 23–12576–125) when attaching the
4. Jack up the vehicle under the rear axle. center bearing to the leaf spring casting.
5. Support the rear frame rails with jack stands, 11. Install new lower mounting bracket bolts (p/n 23–
then lower the jack. This will clear the center 12576–125). Tighten the bolts 155 lbf·ft (210
bearing from the top of the mounting bracket. N·m).
See Fig. 2.

Center Bearing Replacement
3
3
1
05/06/99 2 f310807
1. Jack
2. Jack Stand
3. Frame Rail
4. Rear Axle
Fig. 2, Jack and Jack Stand Placement
04/16/99 f310805
Fig. 3, Center Bearing Removal

12. Return the vehicle to its normal operating posi-
tion.
13. Install the rebound stop.

Replacement WARNING
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down Do not attempt to install the spring assembly by
the engine and apply the parking brakes. Chock hand. The assembly is very heavy and attempting
the tires. to remove it could result in bodily injury.
2. Remove the tip pad bolts above each axle on the 6. Place the new spring assembly on the vehicle.
axle clamp. There are four bolts on each pad.
See Fig. 1. 6.1 Attach the new assembly to the lift.
6.2 Using the lift (hoist), lift the assembly into
place on the axle clamps.
5
5 7. Install the center bearing. For instructions, see
Subject 110.
4
8. Install the tip pad and bolts on each axle clamp.
Tighten the bolts 37 lbf·ft (50 N·m). See Fig. 1.
3 9. If not already installed, install the rebound stop
and mounting bolt. Tighten the nut 68 lbf·ft (92
2
N·m).
10. Install the wheels. For instructions, see
1 Group 40.
11. Return the vehicle to its normal operating posi-
tion.
06/23/99 f350389
1. Leaf Springs 4. Tip Pad
2. Axle 5. Tip Pad Bolts
3. Axle Pad
Fig. 1, Tip Pad Installation

3. Remove the center bearing. See Subject 110.
4. With the vehicle still raised, remove the wheels
on both rear axles on the side the spring assem-
bly will be replaced. For instructions, see
Group 40.
WARNING
Do not attempt to remove the spring assembly by
hand. The assembly is very heavy and attempting
to remove it could result in bodily injury.
5. Using a lift (i.e. engine hoist), remove the leaf
spring assembly from the vehicle. See Fig. 2.

05/17/99 f350388
1. Springs
2. Lift (hoist)
3. Frame Rail
Fig. 2, Leaf Spring Replacement

Lower Control Rod and V-Rod Replacement
Lower Control Rod

A 3 3 A
2
A
1
1
A 2
A 3 A
3
04/15/99 f310803
A. Label
1. V-Rod 2. Spacer 3. Lower Control Rod
Fig. 1, Control and V-Rod Replacement

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down 7. Fasten the new control rod to the axle clamp.
the engine, and apply the parking brakes. Chock Tighten the nut 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
the front tires.
8. Fasten the other end of the rod to the bracket
2. Raise the rear axle and support the frame rails below the rebound stop. Tighten the nut 136 lbf·ft
with jack stands. (184 N·m).
3. Lower the jack under the axle. See Fig. 2. 9. Return the vehicle to the normal operating posi-
tion.
4. Remove the bolts holding both rods between the
rear axles, below the rebound stop. See Fig. 3.
5. Remove the nut and bolt from the axle clamp.
V-Rod Replacement
6. Remove the control rod from the vehicle. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and apply the parking brakes. Chock
IMPORTANT: When installing the rods make the tires.
sure the labels on the rods are facing upward.
Forward axle rods are marked "FDA" and rear 2. Raise the rear axle and support the frame rails
axle rods "RDA." with jack stands.
3. Lower the jack under the axle. See Fig. 2.

Lower Control Rod and V-Rod Replacement
6. Install the v-rod. See Fig. 4.
3
3
1 1
3 3
4 1 1
2 2
2
04/15/99 f310802
1. Mounting Bolt
2. V-Rod
3. Spacer
1
05/06/99 2 f310807 Fig. 4, V-Rod Replacement
1. Jack 6.1 Place the new rod in position between the
2. Jack Stand
frame rails.
3. Frame Rail
4. Rear Axle 6.2 Install the bolts and spacers and loosely
tighten all connections.
Fig. 2, Jack and Jack Stand Placement
6.3 After all fasteners and spacers are in-
stalled, torque as follows:
• Tighten the bolts at the frame
bracket 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
• Tighten the bolts at the axle bracket
427 lbf·ft (579 N·m).
7. Return the vehicle to normal operating position.
1 2 3 1
06/10/99 f320800
1. Lower Control Rod 3. Mounting Nut
2. Mounting Bolt
Fig. 3, Lower Control Rods

4. Remove all six mounting bolts securing the v-rod
to the chassis and axle.
5. Remove the v-rod from the chassis.
IMPORTANT: When installing the rods make
sure the labels on the rods are facing upward.
Forward axle rods are marked "FDA" and rear
axle "RDA."

Axle Clamp and Retainer Replacement
Replacement 9. Jack up the center of the suspension spring (at

the center bearing, between the tandem) and
support with jack stands at the frame. See
1. With the vehicle parked on a level surface, shut
Fig. 2. Make sure that all weight has been re-
down the engine, and chock the tires.
lieved from the axle clamp group and that there
NOTE: All of the following steps should be per- is sufficient clearance to remove the upper axle
formed on the left side of the vehicle, first; then clamp.
the right side of the vehicle. 10. Remove the lower spring-tip pads from both rear
2. Remove the two upper spring-tip pads and bolts axles.
from the suspension spring. See Fig. 1.
2 1 2
3
1
3 5
4 4
4 4
7 6
6 7
12/19/2008 f310812
1. Upper Axle Clamp 5. Brake Cam Tube-Support Bracket

2. Upper Spring-Tip Pad 6. Lower Axle Retainer
3. Lower Spring-Tip Pad 7. Lower Torque-Control Rods
4. U-Bolt
Fig. 1, TufTrac Suspension (left-side view)
3. Disconnect the shock absorbers from the lower 11. Remove and discard the upper axle clamps from
axle retainer on the suspension spring. both rear axles.
4. Disconnect the two lower torque-control rods 12. On both rear axles, install new upper axle
from the lower axle retainers. clamps. Locate the dowel pin through the hole in
5. Remove and discard the U-bolt nuts and the bottom of each axle clamp to confirm proper
washers. alignment.
6. Remove the brake cam tube-support bracket. NOTE: Confirm that you are installing the cor-
rect upper axle clamps before continuing. You
7. Remove and discard the lower axle retainers. can visually identify the new upper axle clamp
8. Remove and discard the axle U-bolts from both
rear axles.

16. Install the brake cam tube-support bracket onto

the rear axle.
17. Install new U-bolts as follows.
IMPORTANT: Install two new washers for
each U-bolt nut.
17.1 Install each U-bolt over the U-bolt saddle
in the upper axle clamp and through the
holes in the lower axle retainer.
17.2 Install the washers and finger-tighten the
07/02/99 f320810
nuts in the order shown in Fig. 4.
Make sure all brackets are snug against
Fig. 2, Vehicle Jacking Point
the axle housing before proceeding.
because the step has been removed from the IMPORTANT: U-bolt nuts must be tightened
area directly above the U-bolt saddles. See in the order shown in Fig. 4.
Fig. 3.
17.3 Tighten the nuts 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m), then
13. Install the lower spring-tip pads into the front and 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m), in two separate rota-
rear axle clamps.
A B
12/19/2008 f350391
A. Original Axle Clamp B. New Axle Clamp
1. Step in U-Bolt Saddle
Fig. 3, Upper Axle Clamps
14. Jack up the left-side suspension spring, remove tions, following the order shown in Fig. 4.
the jack stands, and lower the spring. While the
18. Attach the lower torque-control rods to the lower
spring is being lowered, ensure that it is seated
axle retainers, then tighten 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
correctly onto the lower spring-tip pads.
19. Install the shock absorbers as follows.
15. Install new lower axle retainers onto both rear
axles. 19.1 Install the lower shock mounting bolts.

4 1
2 3
07/07/99 f350392
A. Centerline of Spring
1. Tighten First 3. Tighten Third
2. Tighten Second 4. Tighten Fourth
Fig. 4, U-Bolt Nut Tightening Sequence
19.2 Install the lower shock absorber mounting

washers and nuts, then hand-tighten the
nuts.
19.3 Tighten the nuts to 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
20. Install the spring-tip pads on the suspension
spring, then install the bolts, and tighten 37 lbf·ft
(50 N·m).
21. Repeat the steps for the right-side spring.

Rear Axle Alignment Adjustments
Adjustments
Rear axle positioning and alignment on a vehicle
equipped with the TufTrac suspension is determined
by the length of the lower control rods and the
V-rods. See Fig. 1. The length of the control rods
and V-rods can be controlled by the addition or re-
moval of shims at the mounting points of the control
rods and/or V-rods. The addition of shim(s) between
the control rod or V-rod and its mounting will effec-
tively lengthen the rod moving the axle relative to the f320857
08/10/2000
frame. Conversely, the removal of shim(s) will
shorten the length of the rod, moving the axle in the Fig. 2, Lower Control Rod Shim
opposite direction.
ment is to provide axle alignment and planing adjust-
The lower control rods use a horse-shoe style of ment (angle of the axle from vertical in the side
shim ( Fig. 2) while the V-rods use hardened wash- view).
ers for shims.
A 3 3 A
2
A
1
1
A 2
A 3 A
3
04/15/99 f310803
A. Label
1. V-Rod 2. Spacer 3. Lower Control Rod
Fig. 1, Control Rod and V-Rod Installation

Control rod shimming is performed at the center Axle tracking (lateral axle positioning) is performed
bracket. See Fig. 3. The purpose of this shim adjust- by inserting or removing hardened washers at the
V-rod mounting at the frame end. See Fig. 4.

Rear Axle Alignment Adjustments
forward rod. A shim 0.12 inch thick changes the plan-

ing angle 0.3 degrees.
V-Rods
Axle Tracking Adjustments
1 3
The tracking adjustment of the forward and rear ax-
les is done by adding and/or removing hardened
washers between the V-rod bar pin and the frame-
mounted bracket. See Fig. 4.
2 2
08/10/2000 f320856
1. Forward Lower Control Rod
2. Shims
3. Rear Lower Control Rod
Fig. 3, Lower Control Rod Shim Installation
Lower Control Rods

Alignment Adjustments
1 2 2 3
NOTE: Alignment refers to the squareness of
the axles to each other and the frame rails 08/01/2001 f320924
viewed from the top of the vehicle. 1. Forward Rear Axle V-Rod
2. Hardened Washers
Add or remove shims at the center bracket to
3. Rear Rear Axle V-Rod
achieve proper alignment. See Fig. 3. To minimize
the effect on planing angles, if possible, add or re- Fig. 4, V-Rod Hardened Washer Installation
move shims from both sides of the vehicle.
When one 3mm thick shim is added and one re-
moved (from the opposite side) the axle position is
affected as follows:
• Angle of the axle in the plan view: 0.33 de-
grees
• Fore-aft movement of the wheel at the outside
(assuming 97.6 in. (2480 mm) wheel to wheel
distance): 0.283 in. (7.2 mm)
Planing Adjustments
NOTE: planing refers to the angle of the axle
from vertical in the side view.
Add or remove shims at the center bracket to change
the planing angle. See Fig. 3. Unless alignment is
required, an equal number of shims should be used
left and right for a given axle; example, when adding
one shim to the left forward rod add one shim to right

Specifications
Torque Specifications
Description Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt 241 (327)
Center Bearing Upper Mounting Bolts 68 (92)
Center Bearing Lower Mounting Bolts 155 (210)
Tip Pad Bolts 37 (50)
Rebound Stop Mounting Bolt 68 (92)
Lower Control Rod Mounting Bolts 136 (184)
V-Rod Frame Bracket Mounting Bolts 136 (184)
V-Rod Axle Bracket Mounting Bolts 427 (579)
5/8—18 Axle Clamp U-bolt Nuts (tighten as Stage 1: Hand-Tighten
shown in Fig. 1)
Stage 2: 60 (81)
Stage 3: 200 (271)
3/4-Inch Spring Pack U-bolt Nuts Stage 1: 60 (81)
Stage 2: 200 (271)
Stage 3: 300 (406)
Table 1, Torque Specifications
4 1
2 3
07/07/99 f350392
A. Centerline of Spring
1. Tighten First 3. Tighten Third
2. Tighten Second 4. Tighten Fourth
Fig. 1, Tightening Pattern for U-bolt Nuts

Front Axle Oil Seal, Scotseal® 33.00
General Description
General Description
The Scotseal oil seal acts as a barrier between the
inside bore of the wheel hub and the axle spindle.
See Fig. 1. This stops the entry of dirt, moisture, or
other contaminants into the inner cavity of the wheel
hub, and keeps oil in the hub to lubricate the wheel
bearings.
Each seal is installed in the wheel hub like a conven-
tional oil seal. When the wheel hub is installed over
the spindle, the inside diameter of the seal will
press-fit onto the spindle shoulder. As the wheel ro-
tates, the seal wears within itself and does not wear
on the inside of the hub or on the spindle shoulder.
DETAIL A OUTER SHELL
DIRT LIP
SEALING LIP
GARTER SPRING
RUBBER
SEALING
ELEMENT
SEE DETAIL A
AXLE SPINDLE
WHEEL
HUB BORE
NOTE: Trailer hub shown.
10/25/94 f330011
Fig. 1, Wheel Hub and Seal Assembly

Seal Replacement
Replacement
Review the front axle section in the vehicle mainte-
nance manual before starting the service operations
below. It provides additional instructions and lubricant
requirements for oil seal replacement.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
Refer to the front axle section in this manual for
instructions.
2. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the axle. Handling the bearings with clean dry
hands,wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the hub is removed from the axle. In those
cases, place a protective cushion to catch the
bearing assembly. Using a hardwood drift and a
light hammer, gently tap the bearing and seal out
of the inner wheel bearing cup.
3. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity. 06/30/93
NOTE: Typical application.
f330021
4. Remove all burrs from the shoulder and the seal Fig. 1
bore with an emery cloth or a file. See Fig. 1
and Fig. 2. Clean any metal filings from the com-
ponents.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning the
wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, metal
filings, or other contaminants can scratch the
bearing roller surfaces, and cause premature
wear of the bearing assembly.
5. Inspect the bearings and hub components for
wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged
6. Coat the wheel bearing cones with oil.
7. Install the inner wheel bearing cone in the inner
wheel bearing cup.
8. Seat the small o.d. of the seal in the recess of
the tool adaptor. See Fig. 3. The correct adaptor
is identified on the box.
9. Insert the centering plug of the tool in the bore of
the inner bearing cone. See Fig. 4. The plug pre- NOTE: Typical application.
06/30/93 f330096
vents cocking of the seal in the bore.
Fig. 2
10. Hold the tool handle firmly, and strike it until the
sound of the impact changes as the seal bottoms out. See Fig. 5. Hold the tool firmly to avoid
bounce or unseating of the seal from the adap-
tor.

33.00 Front Axle Oil Seal, Scotseal®
Seal Replacement

06/30/93 NOTE: Typical application. f330022
06/30/93 f330023
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
11. After the seal is bottomed in the bore, check for 16. Spin the wheel and check the oil level.
freedom of movement by manually moving the 17. Adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance. For
interior rubber part of the seal backwards and instructions, refer to the brake section in the ve-
forward. A slight movement indicates a damage- hicle maintenance manual.
free installation.
12. Fill the wheel cavity between the bearings with
oil.
13. Install the wheel hub on the axle. Adjust the
wheel bearings. For instructions, refer to the front
axle section in this manual.
IMPORTANT: When starting the wheel on the
spindle, center the hub carefully to avoid seal
damage from the leading edge of the spindle.
14. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position,
then install the capscrews. Tighten the cap-
screws 15 lbf·in (20 N·m).
15. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
hubcap. See Fig. 6. Do not overfill.

Seal Replacement
02/09/93 f330025a
1. Filler Plug
Fig. 6
Fig. 5

Front Axle Oil Seal, Stemco Guardian® and SS4® 33.01
General Description
General Description
Oil seals keep oil in the hub to lubricate the wheel
bearings. They also protect the wheel bearings from
dirt, dust, and water. The oil seal fits between the
hub bore and the axle spindle. See Fig. 1 .
1 2
05/19/95 f330100a
1. Oil Seal
2. Axle Spindle
3. Wheel Hub Bore
Fig. 1

Seal Replacement
Replacement 5. Using a wire brush, remove any old sealant and

corrosion from the axle spindle and shoulder.
Remove any burrs with an emery cloth (
Review the front axle section in the vehicle mainte-
see Fig. 2). Wipe the spindle and shoulder clean
nance manual before beginning the service opera-
with safety solvent.
tions below. It provides additional instructions and the
lubricant requirements for oil seal replacement.
For instructions, refer to the front axle section in
this manual.
2. Remove the old oil seal from the hub or spindle.
3. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Never use a sharp chisel to cut
through an axle ring. A sharp chisel could dam-
age the spindle or shoulder.
03/08/94 f330093a
4. Remove the steel axle ring by striking the ring
surface several times with a ball-peen hammer ( Fig. 2
see Fig. 1). The stretched axle ring can then be
6. Remove any burrs from the inside of the hub
removed from the spindle.
bore ( see Fig. 3). The hub bore must be free of
burrs that will scratch the outer surface of the
seal and allow oil to escape from the hub. Re-
move any spacer rings or washers, if so
equipped.
03/08/94 f330026a
Fig. 1
WARNING 03/08/94 f330095a
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are A. Check for burrs.

toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may 1. Hub
Fig. 3
manufacturer.

33.01 Front Axle Oil Seal, Stemco Guardian® and SS4®
Seal Replacement
IMPORTANT: Clean the wheel hub cavity and

axle spindle. Dirt, metal filings, or other contami-
nants can scratch the bearing roller surfaces,
and cause rapid wear of the bearing assembly.
7. Inspect the bearings and hub components for
wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged
parts as necessary.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not spin bearing rollers at any
time. Dirt or grit can scratch the roller surface
Treat used bearings as carefully as new ones.
8. If burrs were removed from the spindle shoulder, 03/08/94 f330027a
apply a thin layer of nonhardening sealant to the

Fig. 5
spindle shoulder. See Fig. 4.
10. Position the Stemco installation tool over the
spindle ( see Fig. 6). Using a 3 to 5 lb (1 to 2
1 kg) hammer, drive the seal on the spindle until
the tool bottoms against the shoulder. After the
tool bottoms, turn it while applying several light
taps with the hammer to ensure the seal ring is
flush with the face of the shoulder. Wipe off all
excess sealant.
2
3
03/08/94 f330094a
1. Nonhardening Sealant
2. Spindle
3. Shoulder
Fig. 4
NOTE: Use a nonhardening sealant such as
Permatex® Number-2 or Loctite® 515.
9. Place the oil seal on the spindle so the words
"oil-bearing side" are exposed to the oil. A slight
step on the inside circumference of the seal ring
will allow it to be placed by hand about 1/8 inch
03/09/94 f330090a
(3 mm) onto the shoulder. See Fig. 5.
Fig. 6
CAUTION IMPORTANT: Use only the tool specified by
CAUTION: Do not install the oil seal in the hub Stemco for the vehicle’s front axle. In order for
bore. Incorrect seal installation will damage the the Stemco warranty to apply, the product must
seal and lead to possible spindle, hub, and bear- be correctly installed using the correct tool
ing damage. made by Stemco or a tool approved by Stemco.

Seal Replacement
11. Make sure there aren’t any gaps between the

ring and shoulder. See Fig. 7.
03/09/94 f330028a
03/09/94 f330091a Fig. 9

Fig. 7 IMPORTANT: Do not force the wheel onto the
12. Coat the inner wheel bearing with oil and install it seal. The wheel will seat on the seal when the
on the spindle ( see Fig. 8). No additional oil is adjustment nut is tightened.
needed on the outside of the seal. The seals are 14. Adjust the wheel bearings. For instructions, refer
lubed at the factory. to the front axle section in this manual.
15. Install the hub cap with a new gasket. Tighten
the hub cap nuts 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m) (
see Fig. 10). Add oil to the level shown on the
window ( see Fig. 11), about 1 to 1-1/2 pints (0.5
to 0.7 L). Turn the hub and allow the oil to settle.
Recheck the hub and fill to a level from the oil
line to about 1/4 inch (6 mm) above the oil line.
Do not overfill the hub. Install the vent plug or
threaded filler plug.
16. Spin the wheel and check the oil level.
17. Adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance. For
instructions, refer to the brake section in the ve-
hicle maintenance manual.
03/09/94 f330092a
Fig. 8
13. With the wheel mounted on a wheel dolly, align
the hub bore with the spindle, then push the
wheel onto the spindle until it just contacts the
seal ( see Fig. 9). Coat the outer bearing with oil
and place it on the spindle and into the bearing
cup.

33.01 Front Axle Oil Seal, Stemco Guardian® and SS4®
Seal Replacement
03/09/94 f330097a
Fig. 10
03/09/94 f330098a
Fig. 11

Front Axle Wheel Hubs, Brake Drums, and Wheel
Bearings 33.02
General Information
General Information CUP
The front axle full-floating wheel hub assembly is

TAPERED
made up of four major components: tapered wheel ROLLER
bearings, the wheel hub, wheel studs, and the brake
drum. See Fig. 1.
TAPERED WHEEL BEARINGS

A typical tapered wheel bearing assembly consists of
a cone, tapered rollers, a roller cage, and a separate
cup that is press-fit in the hub. See Fig. 2. All com-
ponents carry the load, with the exception of the CONE
cage, which spaces the rollers around the cone.
Each hub has a set of inner and outer tapered wheel ROLLER
bearing assemblies. The bearing setting is locked in CAGE
place on the axle spindle (steering knuckle) by an 03/23/94 f350056
adjusting nut and jam nut, or a Pro-Torq® nut and
lockring. See Fig. 3. Fig. 2, Tapered Wheel Bearing Assembly
1. Rim
2. Rim Clamp
3. Rim Stud Nut
4. Rim Stud
5. Brake Drum
6. Brake Drum Nut
7. Brake Drum Bolt
8. Spoke Wheel
9. Outer Wheel Bearing
10. Hub Cap
11. Inner Wheel Bearing
12. Disc Wheel
13. Wheel Nut
14. Wheel Stud
15. Hub
Spoke Wheel Assembly Disc Wheel Assembly

07/28/93 f350057
Fig. 1, Sectional View of Spoke and Disc Wheel Assemblies

33.02 Bearings
General Information
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 12. Outer Wheel Bearing

2. Inner Wheel Bearing 13. Outer Wheel Spoke Wheel and Drum Assembly
3. Oil Seal Bearing Cup
4. Axle Spindle 14. Brake Drum Nut
(Steering Knuckle) 15. Spoke Wheel
5. Hub Cap Capscrew 16. Brake Drum,
and Washer Inboard Mounted
6. Hub Cap 17. Brake Drum Bolt
7. Hub Cap Gasket 18. Rim Stud
8. Jam Nut 19. Wheel Nut
9. Lockwasher 20. Wheel Stud
10. Lockring 21. Brake Drum,
11. Wheel Bearing Outboard Mounted
Adjusting Nut 22. Wheel Hub
Outboard Mounted Hub and Drum Assembly

07/28/93 f330012
Fig. 3, Typical Front Axle
WHEEL HUB WHEEL STUDS

The wheel and the brake drum are mounted on an A headed wheel stud ( Fig. 5) is used on front axle
aluminum or iron wheel hub ( Fig. 4). disc wheel hub assemblies and has either serrations
on the stud body or a flat area on the stud’s head to
Both the inner and outer wheel bearing cups and the
prevent the stud from turning in the wheel hub.
wheel studs are press-fit in the hub.
The end of the stud that faces away from the vehicle
Spoke wheels combine the wheel and hub into a
is stamped with an "L" or "R," depending on which
single unit.

Bearings 33.02
General Information
side of the vehicle the stud is installed. Studs

stamped with an "L" are left-hand threaded and are
installed on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Studs
stamped with an "R" are right-hand threaded and are
installed on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
SERRATIONS
CLIPPED
01/28/93 HEAD f350055
Fig. 5, Typical Wheel Studs
08/26/94 f330018
Fig. 4, Front Axle Wheel Hub

Spoke wheels have rim studs. Rim studs are
threaded on both ends, with a nonthreaded section
midway along the shaft of the stud. The studs are
coated with an anaerobic locking compound.
BRAKE DRUM
The brake drum and lining work together as a mated
friction pair, with the drum responsible for both heat
absorption and dissipation. Lining performance and
life largely depend on the condition of the drum and
whether it can adequately absorb and dissipate heat
generated by braking action.
On spoke wheel assemblies, the brake drum is
mounted inboard, and is held in place with bolts. On
all other hub and drum assemblies, the brake drum
is mounted on the outboard face of the hub and fits
over the wheel studs. See Fig. 3.

Bearings 33.02
Outboard-Mounted Drum Removal and
Installation
Then, using a rag soaked in water and wrung

WARNING until nearly dry, remove any remaining dust.
Don’t use compressed air or dry brushing to
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or
clean the brake assembly.
drums, always replace components as an axle
set. 5. Remove the brake drum.
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at 6. Inspect the drum. See Subject 110 for instruc-
the same time. tions.
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at
the same time. Installation
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single 1. On brake drum assemblies with an aluminum
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle, hub, coat the hub and drum contact surfaces
at the same time. Do not mix component with Alumilastic® compound or an equivalent.
types. 2. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub.
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and 2.1 On hub-piloted drums, position the brake
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam- drum on the top step of the pilot pad. One
age, personal injury, or death. of the hub’s pilot pads should be at the
For an exploded view of a typical wheel and axle as- twelve o’clock (top center) position. See
sembly, including the brake drum, see Fig. 1. Fig. 2.
IMPORTANT: If the drum is not positioned
Removal correctly, the pilot pad could be damaged
when the wheel nuts are torqued.
1. Chock the rear tires to prevent vehicle move-
2.2 Make sure that the pilot pads securely
ment. Apply the parking brakes.
center the drum (space between drum and
2. Raise the front of the vehicle until the tires clear hub is equal all around the hub).
the ground. Then place safety stands under the
axle. IMPORTANT: If damage to the pads pre-
vents the drum from centering, replace the
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the front hub. If necessary, to hold the drum in posi-
axle brake shoes.
tion, adjust the brakes before installing the
wheels.
WARNING 3. Install the wheel and tire assembly. To ensure
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non- that the drum does not slip off the pilot pad, fol-
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis- low the proper nut tightening sequence. For in-
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure structions, see Group 40.
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res-
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res- WARNING
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes,
starting with removal of the wheels and continu- If the wheel nuts cannot be tightened to minimum
ing through assembly. torque values, the wheel studs have lost their
4. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. See locking ability, and the hub flange is probably
Group 40 for instructions. damaged. In this case, replace it with a new
wheel hub assembly. Failure to replace the wheel
To minimize the possibility of creating airborne hub assembly when the conditions described
brake lining dust, clean the dust from the brake above exist, could result in the loss of a wheel or
drum, brake backing plate, and brake assembly, loss of vehicle control, and possible personal in-
using an industrial-type vacuum cleaner jury.
equipped with a high-efficiency filter system.

33.02 Bearings
Installation
4. Adjust the front axle brakes. See Group 42 of the

5. Remove the safety stands from under the axle;
lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
1 2 3 4
15 16
14 17
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
18
19 20
21 22
05/04/94 B f330012a
A. Spoke Wheel and Inboard-Mounted Drum Assembly
B. Disc Wheel, Hub, and Outboard-Mounted Drum Assembly
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 9. Lockwasher 16. Brake Drum, Inboard-Mounted
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 10. Lockring 17. Brake Drum Bolt
3. Oil Seal 11. Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut 18. Rim Stud
4. Axle Spindle (Steering Knuckle) 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 19. Wheel Nut
5. Hub Cap Capscrew and Washer 13. Outer Wheel Bearing Cup 20. Wheel Stud
6. Hub Cap 14. Brake Drum Nut 21. Brake Drum, Outboard-Mounted
7. Hub Cap Gasket 15. Spoke Wheel 22. Wheel Hub
8. Jam Nut
Fig. 1, Typical Front Axle (exploded view)

Bearings 33.02
Installation
05/03/94 f350125
NOTE: Pilot pad at 12 o’clock position

1. Drum Pilot
2. Wheel Pilot
Fig. 2

Bearings 33.02
Hub Assembly Removal and Installation, Disc
Wheels
Removal 10. Lift the hub until all weight is removed from the
wheel bearings; remove the adjusting nut or Pro-
Torq nut.
1. Chock the rear tires to prevent vehicle move-
2. Raise the front of the vehicle until the tires clear
CAUTION
the ground. Then place safety stands under the Be careful not to let the outer wheel bearing drop
axle. from the axle spindle. Dropping the bearing can
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the front warp the cage or damage the rollers, ruining the
axle brake shoes. bearing. On vehicles equipped with WABCO ABS,
use care when working with the hubs. To prevent
4. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. See damage to the tone wheel, do not drop the hub,
Group 40 for instructions. or lay it down in a way that would damage the
tone wheel.
WARNING 11. Move the hub about 1/2 inch (13 mm) to jar
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non- loose the outer wheel bearing (allow the hub-only
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung disassembly to rest on the axle spindle; be careful
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure not to damage the axle spindle threads).
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res- 12. Carefully remove the outer wheel bearing; handle
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res- the bearings with clean, dry hands. Wrap the
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes, bearings in either clean oil-proof paper or lint-
starting with removal of the wheels and continu- free rags.
ing through assembly.
5. To minimize the possibility of creating airborne CAUTION
brake lining dust, clean the dust from the brake
drum, brake backing plate, and brake assembly, Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
using an industrial-type vacuum cleaner grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
equipped with a high-efficiency filter system. rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
Then, using a rag soaked in water and wrung bearings as carefully as new ones.
until nearly dry, remove any remaining dust. 13. Remove the hub from the axle spindle. Be care-
Don’t use compressed air or dry brushing to ful not to damage the axle spindle threads as the
clean the brake assembly. assembly is removed.
6. Remove the brake drum. See Fig. 1. 14. Remove the inner wheel bearing from the axle;
handle the bearings with clean, dry hands. Wrap
NOTE: Oil will spill as the hub cap and wheel
the bearings in clean, oil-proof paper or lint-free
hub are removed. Place a suitable container rags. Occasionally, the inner wheel bearing will
under the axle spindle to catch any spilled oil. remain in the hub after the hub is removed. In
Dispose of the oil properly. those cases, place a protective cushion where it
7. Remove the capscrews, washers, and hub cap. will catch the bearings. Use a hardwood drift and
Remove and discard the hub cap gasket. a light hammer to gently tap the bearing (and
seal, if necessary) out of the cup.
8. Remove the axle spindle (steering knuckle) jam
nut, lockwasher, and lockring or nut-lock. See 15. Remove the oil seal from the axle spindle, if not
Fig. 2 or Fig. 3. If equipped with a Pro-Torq® nut, already removed. See the applicable front axle
remove the lockring. See Fig. 4. oil seal section in this manual for additional infor-
mation.
9. Back off the wheel bearing adjusting nut or Pro-
Torq nut about two turns, or enough to allow the 16. Clean any metal filings from the parts. For in-
weight of the hub to be lifted from the wheel structions, see Subject 110.
bearings.

33.02 Bearings
Wheels
1 2 3 4
15 16
14 17
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
18
19 20
21 22
05/04/94 B f330012a
A. Spoke Wheel and Drum Assembly B. Outboard Mounted Hub and Drum Assembly
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 9. Lockwasher 16. Brake Drum, Inboard Mounted
6. Hub Cap 14. Brake Drum Nut 21. Brake Drum, Outboard Mounted
8. Jam Nut
Installation pirator at all times when servicing the brakes,

starting with removal of the wheels and continu-
WARNING 1. Using cleaning solvent, remove the old oil from
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non- the axle spindle (steering knuckle) and the disas-
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis- sembled parts. Allow the parts to dry, or dry them
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure with a clean, absorbent, and lint-free cloth or
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res- paper. Wrap a protective layer of friction tape on
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res- the axle spindle threads.

Bearings 33.02
Wheels
1
2
3
4
1
3
5
4 6
04/14/94 5 f330032a 7
06/07/94 f330030a
1. Axle Spindle 4. Lockwasher
2. Adjusting Nut 5. Jam Nut 1. Axle Spindle 5. Keyway Tab
3. Lockring 2. Pro-Torque Nut 6. Keeper Arms
3. Keeper Tab 7. Keeper Projections
Fig. 2, Axle With Jam Nut and Lockring 4. Lockring
Fig. 4, Axle With Pro-Torq Nut

1
could cause damage to both wheel bearing as-
semblies and the wheel hub.
2
3. Coat both bearing assemblies with fresh oil. In-
stall the inner wheel bearings and oil seal.
3 Handle the bearings with clean, dry hands. Refer
to the applicable section for oil seal installation
4 instructions. For lubricant specifications, see
4. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre-
vent rust from forming behind the inner wheel
bearing.
06/07/94 f350059a
CAUTION
1. Axle Spindle 3. Nut-Lock On vehicles equipped with WABCO ABS, use
2. Adjusting Nut 4. Jam Nut care when installing the hubs. To prevent dam-
age to the tone wheel, do not drop the hub or lay
Fig. 3, Axle With Jam Nut and Nut-Lock it down in a way that would damage the tone
2. On brake drum assemblies with an aluminum wheel.
hub, coat the hub and drum contact surfaces 5. Carefully mount the hub and inner wheel bearing
with Alumilastic® compound or an equivalent. assembly on the axle spindle. Be careful not to
unseat the inner wheel bearing or seal.
CAUTION 6. Fill the hub cavity with oil, then install the outer
wheel bearing; handle the bearings with clean,
Make sure that both bearing assemblies are dry hands. Use care not to damage the bearings
coated with fresh oil. Use only fresh oil on the as they are seated in the bearing cups. Remove
bearing assemblies; old oil could be contami- the friction tape from the axle spindle threads.
nated with dirt or water (both are corrosives) and

33.02 Bearings
Wheels
NOTE: If the axle is equipped with Pro-Torq 8.1 Install the locking device.
nuts (see Fig. 4), skip the next four steps, and NOTE: The locking device can be any one
go to the step for installing the Pro-Torq nuts. of the following types:
7. If the axle is equipped with adjusting nuts and
• Tanged nut-lock
jam nuts (see Fig. 2 or Fig. 3), install the wheel
bearing adjusting nut. • Lockring
7.1 After the wheel hub and bearings are as- • Lockwasher and lockring
sembled on the spindle, tighten the inner • Nut-lock and lockring
adjusting nut finger-tight.
8.2 Install the jam nut, and tighten it to the
IMPORTANT: Be sure there is sufficient applicable torque in Table 1.
clearance between the brake shoe and the
9. With the jam nut installed and tightened, adjust
brake drum, so brake shoe drag will not in- the bearings.
terfere with bearing adjustment.
IMPORTANT: Do not adjust the wheel bear-
7.2 While rotating the wheel hub assembly,
ings with the wheel mounted on the hub.
tighten the inner adjusting nut 100 lbf·ft
(136 N·m). You cannot accurately adjust or measure
bearing end play with the wheel mounted on
7.3 Back off the adjusting nut completely. the hub.
7.4 Tighten the adjusting nut 20 lbf·ft (27 N·m) 9.1 Attach a dial indicator to the hub and set
while rotating the wheel hub assembly. the point of the indicator in line with the
7.5 Back off the adjusting nut one-third turn. end of the axle spindle.
NOTE: If you’re securing the wheel bearings If using aluminum hubs, you may have to
with a pierced lockring and no hole in the install the brake drum on the hub to pro-
vide a steel base for the magnet of the
lockring aligns with the dowel on the adjust-
dial indicator. Mount the drum on the
ing nut, remove the lockring, turn it over and hub’s drum pilot, then adjust the brake or
install it, again. If a hole still doesn’t align have someone apply the brakes to hold
with the dowel, loosen the adjusting nut, but the drum securely while you secure the
only enough to align the dowel with a hole in drum using the stud at the 12 o’clock posi-
the lockring. tion, then the studs at about the 4 o’clock
8. Install the locking device and jam nut. and 8 o’clock positions.
Dual-Nut Wheel Bearing Lock Torque Values

Application Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Stage 1: Tighten to 100 (135)
Stage 2: Back Off Completely
Adjusting Nut —
Stage 3: Tighten to 20 (25) While Rotating Hub
Stage 4: Back Off 1/3 Turn

Bearings 33.02
Wheels

Target: 175 (235)
1-1/8
Permissible Range: 150–225 (205–305)
Jam Nut (with Wheel Bearing Nut, Pierced 1-1/2 to Target: 250 (340)
Lockwasher, and Bendable Lockwasher) 2-1/2 Permissible Range: 200–300 (270–405)
2-5/8 or Target: 325 (440)

Larger Permissible Range: 250–400 (340–540)
Table 1, Dual-Nut Wheel Bearing Lock Torque Values
NOTE: If using a stud-piloted hub and a change the end play about 0.0025 inch
steel drum, install 1–1/4 inch washers be- (0.064 mm).
tween the nuts and the drum. 10.2 Install the locking device and jam nut as
described earlier, and measure the end
9.2 Release the brakes if you used them to play. If the end play is not between 0.001
hold the drum while installing it. and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm), turn
the inner adjusting nut again.
9.3 Grip the sides of the hub at the three
o’clock and nine o’clock positions. Push in 10.3 Once the end play is correct, bend the
on the hub (and drum, if applicable), to nut-lock (see Fig. 5) or lockwasher, as
seat the inboard bearing set. Zero the dial applicable, to lock the jam nut and/or ad-
indicator. justing nut in place.
9.4 Once more, grip the sides of the hub at
the three o’clock and nine o’clock posi- A
tions. This time, pull out on the hub (and
drum, if applicable). Read the dial indica- 1
tor, and note the end play.
9.5 Push the hub back in to confirm that the
needle of the dial indicator returns to zero. 2
10. The end play must be between 0.001 and 0.005
inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If the end play is not
within this range, adjust the end play.
10.1 Remove the jam nut and locking device,
and back off or tighten the inner adjusting
nut.
3
IMPORTANT: If you’re using a nut-lock, turn- 06/07/94 f350015a
ing the adjusting nut 1/4 turn will change the A. Bend only each tang that is at a right angle to a flat.
end play about 0.014 inch (0.36 mm). 1. Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut
If you’re using a lockring, turning the adjust- 2. Wheel Bearing Jam Nut
ing nut one lockring hole will change the end 3. Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut-Lock
play about 0.005 inch (0.13 mm). If you take
Fig. 5, Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut-Lock Installation
the lockring off and reverse it, then turn the
adjusting nut to the next hole, this will 11. If equipped with Pro-Torq nuts, adjust the wheel
bearings as follows (see Fig. 4).

33.02 Bearings
Wheels
11.1 Install the Pro-Torq nut, and turn it against

the bearing while spinning the wheel.
IMPORTANT: Be sure there is enough clear-
ance between the brake shoes and the
brake drum, so brake shoe drag won’t inter-
fere with the bearing adjustment.
11.2 Tighten the adjusting nut 90 to 110 lbf·ft
(122 to 149 N·m) while spinning the wheel
in both directions.
11.3 Loosen the nut to zero torque and spin
the wheel a few turns.
11.4 Tighten the nut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) while
12/20/2006 f330008a
spinning the wheel in both directions.
Back off the nut one-eighth to one-sixth Fig. 7, Compress the Lockring
turn.
11.5 Hold the lockring with the keeper projec- CAUTION
tions facing outboard. See Fig. 6.
Do not use pliers or similar devices on the
keeper projections to compress the lockring. This
could result in damage to or breakage of the
lockring.
11.8 Using the screwdriver, press around the
edges of the lockring to be sure it is
locked in place. See Fig. 8.
12/20/2006 f330007a
Fig. 6, Lockring Position
11.6 Insert the keeper tab in the undercut

groove of the Pro-Torq nut, while pressing
the keyway tabs on the flat surface of the
axle spindle, engaging the mating teeth.
12/20/2006 f330009a
11.7 Insert a screwdriver, or similar tool, in the
undercut groove of the nut, between the Fig. 8, Make Sure the Lockring is Locked
keeper arms. Compress the lockring with
the tool to lock in place. See Fig. 7. 12. Place the hub cap and a new gasket in position,
then install the washers and capscrews. Tighten
the capscrews to the torque values in the torque

Bearings 33.02
Wheels
13. Add fresh oil to the wheel hub to the level indi- 17. Remove the safety stands from under the axle
cated on the hub cap. See Specifications, 400 and lower the vehicle.
for the recommended axle lubricants. 18. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
WARNING
Failure to add oil to the wheel hub after the hub
has been serviced will cause the wheel bearings
to overheat and seize during vehicle operation.
See Fig. 9. Seized bearing rollers can cause sud-
den damage to the tire or axle, possibly resulting
in personal injury.
14. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub.
08/08/94 f330058a
Fig. 9, Bearing Damage Resulting from Inadequate

Lubrication
WARNING
If the wheel nuts cannot be tightened to minimum
torque values, the wheel studs have lost their
locking action, and the wheel hub flange is prob-
ably damaged. In this case, replace it with a new
wheel hub assembly. Failure to replace the wheel
hub assembly when the conditions described
above exist could result in the loss of a wheel or
loss of vehicle control, and possible personal in-
jury.
15. Install the wheel and tire assembly. See
Group 40 for instructions.
16. Adjust the front axle brakes. For instructions, see
Group 42 in the Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance
Manual.

Bearings 33.02
Hub Assembly Removal and Installation, Spoke
Wheels
Removal (See Fig. 1) 1. Chock the rear tires to prevent vehicle move-
Spoke wheel assemblies do not need to be com- 2. Raise the front of the vehicle until the tires clear
pletely disassembled for brake component mainte- the ground. Place safety stands under the axle.
nance. The tires and rims can remain attached to the Position a jack or wheel-and-tire dolly under the
wheel, and the wheel to the brake drum. The assem- tire.
bly is then removed from the axle as a single unit to
expose brake components. Refer to the brake group 3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the front
of this manual for brake assembly service informa- axle brake shoes.
tion.
1 2 3 4
15 16
14 17
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
18
19 20
21 22
05/04/94 B f330012a
A. Spoke Wheel and Drum Assembly B. Outboard Mounted Hub and Drum Assembly
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 9. Lockwasher 16. Brake Drum, Inboard Mounted
6. Hub Cap 14. Brake Drum Nut 21. Brake Drum, Outboard Mounted
8. Jam Nut

33.02 Bearings
Wheels
4. Remove the rim and tire assembly. Refer to the

wheels and tires section in this manual for in- WARNING
structions.
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non-
NOTE: Oil will spill as the hub cap is removed. asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis-
Place a suitable container under the wheel to ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure
catch any spilled oil. and requires workers to wear an air purifying res-
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res-
5. Remove the capscrews, washers, and hub cap. pirator at all times when servicing the brakes,
Discard the hub cap gasket and oil. starting with removal of the wheels and continu-
6. Remove the axle spindle (steering knuckle) jam ing through assembly.
nut, lockwasher, and lockring or nut-lock. If 11. Remove the brake drum nuts ( Fig. 1) and de-
equipped with a Pro-Torq® nut, remove the lock- tach the brake drum from the wheel.
ring.
12. Remove the inner wheel bearing from the axle.
7. Back off the wheel bearing adjusting nut or Pro- Handle the bearings with clean, dry hands. Wrap
Torque nut about two turns, or just enough to the bearings in clean oil-proof paper or lint-free
allow the weight of the wheel and drum assem- rags. Occasionally, the inner wheel bearing will
bly to be lifted from the wheel bearings. remain in the wheel after the wheel is removed
8. Using an adjustable wheeled support, raise the from the axle. In this case, place a protective
wheel and drum assembly until all weight is re- cushion where it will catch the bearings. Use a
moved from the bearings. Remove the adjusting hardwood drift and a light hammer to gently tap
nut, or the Pro-Torq nut. the bearing (and seal, if necessary) out of the
cup.
9. Carefully remove the outer wheel bearing; handle
the bearings with clean, dry hands. If the wheel 13. Remove the oil seal from the axle spindle, if not
bearings have not loosened from the cup, move already removed. Refer to the appropriate oil
the wheel assembly about 1/2 inch (13 mm) to seal section in this group.
jar loose the outer wheel bearing. Be careful to 14. Go to Subject 110.
not drop the bearings. Wrap the bearings in
clean oil-proof paper or lint-free rags.
CAUTION
WARNING
Do not spin the bearing rollers at any time. Dirt
or grit can scratch the roller surface and cause Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non-
rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis-
bearings as carefully as new ones. ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure
10. Using the wheeled support, pull the wheel as-
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res-
sembly away from the vehicle. Be careful not to
damage the axle spindle threads as the assem-
starting with removal of the wheels and continu-
bly is removed.
To minimize the possibility of creating airborne
brake lining dust, clean the dust from the brake 1. Remove the old oil from the axle spindle and
drum, brake backing plate, and brake assembly, also the disassembled axle parts. Inspect and
using an industrial-type vacuum cleaner clean the wheel hub cavity and the wheel bear-
equipped with a high-efficiency filter system. ings as instructed in Subject 110.
Then, using a rag soaked in water and wrung 2. Wrap a protective layer of friction tape on the
until nearly dry, remove any remaining dust. axle spindle threads.

Bearings 33.02
Wheels
3. If it was removed, attach the wheel to the brake

drum. Install the brake drum bolts and nuts, then 1
tighten the nuts to the torque values in the
torque table in Specifications, 400.
2
stall the inner wheel bearing and oil seal. Handle
3
the bearings with clean, dry hands. For oil seal
installation instructions, refer to the applicable 4
section in this group.
bearing.
6. Using a wheeled support, mount the wheel and
drum assembly on the axle spindle; be careful
06/07/94 f350059a
not to unseat the bearings or seal.
1. Axle Spindle 3. Nut-Lock
7. Fill the hub cavity with oil, and install the outer 2. Adjusting Nut 4. Jam Nut
dry hands. Remove the friction tape from the Fig. 3, Axle With Jam Nut and Nut-Lock
axle spindle threads.
IMPORTANT: Be sure there is sufficient
8. If the axle is equipped with Pro-Torq nuts, skip clearance between the brake shoe and the
the next three steps, and go to the step for in- brake drum, so brake shoe drag will not in-
stalling the Pro-Torq nuts. terfere with bearing adjustment.
If the axle is equipped with adjusting nuts and 8.1 After the wheel hub and bearings are as-
jam nuts ( Fig. 2 or Fig. 3), install the wheel sembled on the spindle, tighten the inner
bearing adjusting nut. Tighten the nut finger-tight. (adjusting) nut 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m) while
Adjust the bearings. rotating the wheel hub assembly.
8.2 Back off the inner nut one full turn.
8.3 Tighten the inner nut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m)
while rotating the wheel hub assembly
8.4 Back off the inner nut one quarter turn.
NOTE: If you’re securing the wheel bearings
1 with a pierced lockring and no hole in the
2 ing nut, remove the lockring, turn it over and
install it, again. If a hole still doesn’t align
3 with the dowel, loosen the adjusting nut, but
only enough to align the dowel with a hole in
4 the lockring.
04/14/94 5 f330032a
8.5 Install the locking device:
1. Axle Spindle 4. Lockwasher
2. Adjusting Nut 5. Jam Nut • Tanged nut-lock
3. Lockring
• Lockring
Fig. 2, Axle With Jam Nut and Lockring
• Lockwasher and a lockring
• Nut-lock and a lockring

33.02 Bearings
Wheels
Then install the jam nut, and tighten it to

the applicable torque in Table 1.
Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)

Locking Device
1-1/8 to 2-1/2 Inch Jam Nuts 2-5/8 Inch or Larger Jam Nuts
Tanged Nut-Lock
200 to 300 (271 to 407)
Lockring
Tanged Nut-Lock and Lockring
200 to 300 (271 to 407) 250 to 400 (339 to 542)
Lockwasher and Lockring
Table 1, Jam Nut Torques
IMPORTANT: Do not adjust the wheel bear- Push the hub back in to confirm that the
ings with the wheel mounted on the hub. needle of the dial indicator returns to
You cannot accurately adjust or measure zero.
bearing end play with the wheel mounted on The end play must be between 0.001 and
the hub. 0.005 inch (0.025 and 0.127 mm).
8.6 With the jam nut installed and tightened, 9. If the end play is not within this range, remove
attach a dial indicator to the hub and set the jam nut and locking device, and back off or
the point of the indicator in line with the tighten the inner (adjusting) nut to adjust the end
end of the axle spindle. play. Keep the following in mind:
If using aluminum hubs, you may have to If you’re using a nut-lock: turning the inner nut
install the brake drum on the hub to pro- 1/4 turn will change the end play about 0.014
vide a steel base for the magnet of the inch (0.355 mm).
dial indicator. Mount the drum on the
hub’s drum pilot, then adjust the brake or If you’re using a lockring: turning the inner nut
have someone apply the brakes to hold one lockring hole will change the end play about
the drum securely while you secure the 0.005 inch (0.127 mm). If you take the lockring
drum using the stud at the 12 o’clock po- off and reverse it, then turn the inner nut to the
sition, then the studs at about the 4 next hole, this will change the end play about
o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. 0.0025 inch (0.0635 mm).
NOTE: If using a stud-piloted hub and a Install the locking device and jam nut as de-
scribed earlier, and measure the end play. If the
steel drum, install 1–1/4 inch washers be- end play is not between 0.001 and 0.005 inch
tween the nuts and the drum. (0.025 and 0.127 mm), adjust the inner (adjust-
8.7 Release the brakes if you used them to ing) nut, again.
hold the drum while installing it. 10. Once the end play is correct, bend the nut-lock
Grip the sides of the hub at the three (see Fig. 4) or lockwasher as applicable to lock
o’clock and nine o’clock positions, then the jam nut and/or adjusting nut in place.
push the hub (and drum, if applicable), to 11. If equipped with Pro-Torq nuts, adjust the wheel
seat the inboard bearing set. Zero the dial bearings (see Fig. 5).
indicator.
11.1 Install the Pro-Torq nut, and turn it
Grip the sides of the hub at the three against the bearing while spinning the
o’clock and nine o’clock positions, then wheel.
pull the hub (and drum, if applicable).
Read the dial indicator, and note the end IMPORTANT: Be sure there is enough clear-
play. ance between the brake shoes and the

Bearings 33.02
Wheels
1
A
2
1
3
2 4
5
6
3 7
06/07/94 f350015a 06/07/94 f330030a
A. Bend only each tang that is at a right angle to a 1. Axle Spindle 5. Keyway Tabs
flat. 2. Pro-Torque Nut 6. Keeper Arms
1. Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut 3. Keeper Tab 7. Keeper Projections
2. Wheel Bearing Jam Nut 4. Lockring
3. Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut-Lock
Fig. 5, Axle With Pro-Torq Nut
Fig. 4, Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut-Lock Installation
(122 to 149 N·m) while spinning the
wheel in both directions.
Back off the nut one-eighth to one-sixth
turn.
11.5 Hold the lockring with the keeper projec- 01/13/95 f330007a
Fig. 6, Lockring Position, Disc Wheel Shown
groove of the Pro-Torq nut, while pressing
the keyway tabs on the flat surface of the CAUTION
11.7 Insert a screwdriver, or similar tool, in the keeper projections to compress the lockring. This
undercut groove of the nut, between the could result in damage or breakage of the lock-
keeper arms. Compress the lockring with ring.
the tool to lock in place. See Fig. 7.
12. Place the hub cap, with a new gasket, in posi-
Using the screwdriver, press around the tion. Install the washers and capscrews. Tighten
edges of the lockring to be sure it is the capscrews to the torque values in the torque
locked in place. See Fig. 8. table in Specifications, 400.

33.02 Bearings
Wheels
13. Install the rim and tire assembly. Refer to the

wheels and tires section in this manual for in-
structions.
WARNING
If the rim nuts cannot be tightened to minimum
torque values, the rim studs have lost their lock-
ing ability, and the wheel hub flange is probably
damaged. In this case, replace it with a new
wheel. Failure to replace the wheel when the con-
ditions described above exist could result in loss
of a wheel or loss of vehicle control, and pos-
sible personal injury.
01/13/95 f330009a
14. Lower and remove the jack or wheel-and-tire
dolly from under the tires. Fig. 8, Make Sure the Lockring is Locked, Disc Wheel
Shown
01/13/95 f330008a
Fig. 7, Compress the Lockring, Disc Wheel Shown

08/08/94 f330058a
15. Add fresh oil to the wheel hub cavity to the level
shown on the hub cap. Refer to Specifica-
Fig. 9, Bearing Damage Resulting from Inadequate
tions, 400 for lubricant specifications. Lubrication
WARNING 17. Remove the safety stands from under the axle.
Then lower the vehicle.
Failure to add oil to the wheel hub cavity after 18. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
the wheel has been serviced can cause the wheel
bearings to overheat and seize during vehicle op-
eration. See Fig. 9. Seized bearing rollers can
cause sudden damage to the tire or axle, possi-
bly resulting in personal injury.
16. Adjust the front axle brakes. For instructions, re-
fer to the brake section in the vehicle mainte-
nance manual.

Bearings 33.02
Axle Components Cleaning and Inspection
Wheel Hub Assembly tions. Damaged nuts ( Fig. 4), usually caused by
inadequate tightening, must be replaced with
Inspection new ones.
1. Inspect the wheel hub mounting flange. A loose

wheel assembly will cause the flange to be worn,
jagged, or warped. See Fig. 1. Replace the
wheel hub if any of these conditions exist.
Inspect the flange surface around the wheel
studs. Improperly torqued wheel nuts will cause
worn or cracked stud grooves on the hub.
See Fig. 2. If wear spots or cracks appear any-
where on the hub, or if the hub is otherwise
damaged, replace it with a new one.
2. Remove all the old oil from the spoke wheel or
hub cavity. Inspect the inner surface of the wheel
or hub for cracks, dents, wear, or other damage.
Replace the wheel or hub if damaged.
3. Remove all the old grease or oil from the sur-
faces of the wheel bearing cups. Inspect the
cups for cracks, wear, spalling, or flaking.
See Fig. 3. Replace the cups if damaged in any
way. Refer to Subject 120. 04/14/94 1 f330020a
1. Cracked Stud Grooves
Fig. 2, Damaged Front Axle Wheel Hub
1
2
04/14/94 1 f330019a 04/14/94 f330006a
1. Wear Spots 1. Cup

2. Cone
Fig. 1, Damaged Front Axle Wheel Hub
Fig. 3, Spalling (Flaking) of Wheel Bearing Assembly
4. Inspect the wheel nuts on disc wheel installa-
tions, or the rim nuts on spoke-wheel installa-

33.02 Bearings
5. Inspect the wheel studs or rim studs. Replace

studs that are stripped, broken, bent, or other-
wise damaged. Refer to Subject 130 or Sub-
ject 140.
Wheel Bearing Cleaning and

Inspection
CLEANING 01/29/93 f230017
WARNING Fig. 4, Damaged Wheel Stud Nut

2. Visible step wear, especially at the small end of
WARNING: Do not expose kerosene or diesel fuel the roller track, or deep indentations, cracks, or
oil to flames or intense heat. Both fluids are flam- breaks in the cone surfaces. See Fig. 7 .
mable and, if ignited, could cause personal in-
jury. 3. Bright rubbing marks on the dark phosphate sur-
faces of the bearing cage. See Fig. 8.
Don’t spin the bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause pre-
mature wear of the bearing assembly. Treat a
used bearing as carefully as a new one.
Wheel bearings should be very closely inspected at
the time of disassembly. The best inspection condi-
tions are possible only after the bearings have been
thoroughly cleaned using kerosene or diesel fuel oil,
and a stiff brush ( Fig. 5). Before inspecting, clean
the bearings.
1. Clean all old oil from the bearings and hub cavi-
ties, with kerosene or diesel fuel and a stiff
brush. See Fig. 5. Don’t use gasoline or heated
solvent.
2. Allow the cleaned parts to dry, or dry them with a 03/21/91 f350095
clean absorbent cloth or paper. Clean and dry
Fig. 5, Wheel Bearing Cleaning
your hands and all tools used in the maintenance
operation. Oil will not stick to a surface that is 4. Water etch on any bearing surface. Water etch
wet with kerosene or diesel fuel, and the kero- appears as gray or black stains on the steel sur-
sene or diesel fuel may dilute the lubricant. face, and it greatly weakens the affected area. If
water etch is present, check the bearing seal
INSPECTION sealing surfaces.
After the bearings are cleaned, inspect the assem- 5. Etching or pitting on functioning surfaces.
blies, which include the rollers, cones, cups, and See Fig. 9.
cages. If any of the following conditions exist, replace
the bearing assemblies: 6. Spalling (flaking) of the bearing cup, roller, or
cone surfaces. See Fig. 3.
1. Large ends of the rollers worn flush to the re-
cess; the radii at the large ends of the rollers are After inspection, brush the bearings with fresh
worn sharp. These are signs of advanced wear. axle lubricant.
See Fig. 6.

Bearings 33.02
1
06/30/93 f330004
Fig. 8, Rubbing Marks on Bearing Cage

05/12/94 f330085a
1. New Bearing
2. Worn Bearing Rollers
Fig. 6, Wheel Bearing Roller Wear
06/30/93 f330086
Fig. 9, Etching (Pitting) on Bearing Surfaces

If a drum must be turned or replaced, the other
same-axle drum must be similarly turned or replaced
06/30/93 f330087 to provide the same braking power on both wheels.
Turned drums should not exceed the maximum al-
Fig. 7, Indentions, Cracks, or Breaks in Bearing lowable diameter, which is stamped on the outside
Surfaces surface of the drum. See Fig. 10 for a typical loca-
tion of this stamp.
Brake Drum Inspection
NOTE: Drums that have been turned should
New brake drums are purposely undersized to allow then be cleaned by using fine emery cloth fol-
for turning, which may be needed if the drum is off- lowed with a hot water wash. Drums that have
center when mounted on the hub. If a new drum is been renewed using emery cloth should also be
installed, the protective coating on the inner friction cleaned with a hot water wash.
surface must first be removed with a solvent, and
then rinsed with a hot water wash. Use a clean rag
to remove any oily residue or metal chips from the
friction surface.

33.02 Bearings
Replace the same-axle drums if substantial

CAUTION cracks are present, or if widening of the fine hair-
line cracks occurs.
CAUTION: Failure to replace drums when worn
or turned to limits exceeding the maximum allow- NOTE: If there is normal heat checking as de-
able diameter will cause drum weakness and re- scribed above, inspect the drums at least every
duced braking capacity, which can lead to distor- 12,000 miles (19 300 km) thereafter. Inspect the
tion, higher drum temperatures, and ultimate drums (using a flashlight from the inboard side
drum breakage. of the wheels) every 6000 miles (9700 km). In-
spect more often under adverse operating con-
ditions.
3. Check for a contaminated inner friction surface. If
fluids are present, such as oil or grease, remove
the contaminants. Locate and correct the source
of the contamination.
WARNING
WARNING: If the brake drums are contaminated
with fluids, the brake linings will also be affected.
Since oil- or grease-saturated linings cannot be
salvaged, they must be replaced. For brake lining
replacement procedures, refer to the applicable
section in this group. Failure to replace fluid-
contaminated brake linings could result in a par-
tial loss of braking capacity.
4. Measure the inside diameter of the drum. If the
measured diameter is greater than the maximum
allowable diameter, replace the same-axle drums
Fig. 10, Outboard-Mounted Hub and Drum Assembly and linings.
If the drums are turned or replaced, replace the 5. Check for a variation in gauge readings at differ-
brake linings. Refer to the applicable section in this ent points on the radius of the drum’s working
group for instructions. surface. If the variation is more than 0.010 inch
1. Inspect the inner friction surface. If a veneered (0.25 mm) at any point, the drum is out-of-round
(highly glossed) or glazed surface exists, renew to unacceptable limits. Remachine or replace the
the drum by using 80-grit emery cloth or by turn- same-axle drums.
ing the drums. 6. Inspect the outside surface of the drum. Remove
2. Inspect for heat checking, which is a form of any accumulation of mud, dirt, or rust; foreign
buckling (cracking) resulting from a temperature matter acts as an insulator, trapping heat within
differential in the drum wall between a relatively the drum.
cool exterior and a hot friction surface. Heat 7. Check for hard, slightly raised dark-colored spots
checking is normal on all drums and may not on the inner friction surface or for a bluish cast
reduce performance and lining life if the network on the brake parts, both of which are caused by
of fine hairline cracks remains small. Examine high temperatures. If the drums’ maximum allow-
heat checks of drums often to be sure the able diameters have not been exceeded, rema-
checks have not widened into drum weakening chine both same-axle drums. If the spots or dis-
cracks (substantial cracks extending to the open coloration cannot be removed, or if remachining
edge of the drum). is not possible, replace the drums. Also replace
the brake shoe return springs.

Bearings 33.02
Wheel Bearing Cup Removal and Installation,
Aluminum Hubs
Removal 3. Wearing heavy protective gloves, remove the

hub from the oven. Place the hub on a suitable
(See Fig. 1) press so that the base is fully supported. Quickly
press out the bearing cups.
To ensure a tight fit, wheel bearing cups are pur-
posely larger than the wheel hub bores they occupy.
To remove the bearing cups, aluminum hub bores
must be temporarily expanded by heating the hub in
an oven (the bearing cups will also expand, but to a
considerably lesser extent). If adequate heating facili-
ties are not available, replace the hub, wheel stud,
and bearing cup assembly.
To install the bearing cups, aluminum hubs must
again be temporarily expanded using oven heating.
When the hub is properly heated, the bearing cup
and hub can be press-fit together, using a suitable
press.
WARNING
manufacturer.
02/01/93 f330089
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner Fig. 1, Wheel Bearing Cup Locations
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly.
Installation
WARNING
WARNING
WARNING: Do not use oxyacetylene equipment
or similar equipment to heat the hub. The heat WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are
emitted from these instruments is not suitable for toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may
uniform heating of the wheel hub. If any local be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the
surface of an aluminum hub is heated to 350°F safety precautions recommended by the solvent
(177°C) or higher, artificial aging through metal- manufacturer.
lurgical change will occur. Cracks or weakness in
the hub can result, which could ultimately result 1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
in the loss of a wheel and loss of vehicle control. oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including
2. Oven-heat the hub to a temperature range of the bearing cup bores.
240° to 280°F (116° to 138°C). Make sure the
oven thermostat is accurately set; if unsure, use 2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
an oven thermometer to check the temperature warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
of the oven before placing the hub inside. bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
bly.
If adequate heating facilities are not available,
replace the hub, wheel stud, and bearing cup
assembly.

33.02 Bearings
Aluminum Hubs
8. Wipe off the accumulation of grease left after the

WARNING bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean, lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
WARNING: Do not use oxyacetylene equipment diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
or similar equipment to heat the hub. The heat bearing cup. Wipe the surface dry using a clean,
emitted from these instruments is not suitable for absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
uniform heating of the wheel hub. If any local
surface of an aluminum hub is heated to 350°F
(177°C) or higher, artificial aging through metal-
the hub can result, which could ultimately result
in the loss of a wheel and loss of vehicle control.
3. Oven-heat the hub to a temperature range of
240° to 280°F (116° to 138°C). Make sure the
oven thermostat is accurately set; if unsure, use
an oven thermometer to check the temperature
of the oven before placing the hub inside.
4. Coat the hub-contact surface of the replacement
bearing cup with a film of grease.
5. Wearing heavy protective gloves, remove the
hub from the oven.
6. Place the hub on a suitable press so that the
base is fully supported. Quickly press-fit the
bearing cup into the wheel hub until it is com-
pletely and evenly seated. Be careful not to
shave the sides of the bearing cup bore as the
bearing cup is seated. The accumulation of de-
bris will prevent the cup from being seated and
will also cause permanent damage to the wheel
hub. If the sides of the bearing cup bore are
damaged during installation, replace the wheel
hub assembly.
7. Allow the wheel hub to cool before handling.
Then, using a 0.0015-inch feeler gauge, check at
several places for the seating of the bearing cup
in the bearing cup bore. The gauge should not
enter beneath the cup. If it does, there is prob-
ably dirt or debris preventing the cup from seat-
ing. Using the instructions above, remove the
cup, then remove the foreign matter. Reinstall
the cup.
WARNING
WARNING: Do not expose kerosene or diesel fuel
oil to flames or intense heat. Both fluids are flam-
jury.

Bearings 33.02
Ferrous Hubs
Wheel Bearing Cup Removal WARNING

and Installation, Ferrous Hubs
Wheel bearing cups on ferrous hubs are removed oil to flames or intense heat. Both fluids are flam-
and installed by driving them out and pressing them mable and, if ignited, could cause personal in-
in without heating the hub. jury.
REMOVAL bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
WARNING diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
bearing cup. Wipe the surface dry using a clean,
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
manufacturer.
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
2. Using a mild-steel rod through the opposite end
of the hub, drive against the inner edge of the
bearing cup. Alternately drive on opposite sides
of the cup to avoid cocking the cup and damag-
ing the inside of the hub.
INSTALLATION
WARNING
manufacturer.
the bearing cup bores.
2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
bly.
4. Position the cup in the hub and press it into
place, using a suitable driving tool. Cups must
seat against the shoulder in the hub.

Bearings 33.02
Wheel Stud Replacement, Disc Wheels
Replacement amount of metal removal from the wheel stud

bore. Concentrated heat will damage the hub. If
the hub is damaged during wheel stud removal
WARNING or installation, replace it.
WARNING: If a wheel stud breaks, the remaining 4. Apply a coating of clean axle grease to the entire
studs are subjected to undue strain and could shaft on headed studs.
fail due to fatigue. When a broken stud is re- 5. With the hub on a suitable press, make sure the
placed, replace the stud on each side of it. hub flange is evenly supported around and next
See Fig. 1. If more than one stud is broken, re- to the stud being installed.
place all of the studs. Failure to replace the studs
could result in the loss of a wheel or loss of ve- 6. Position the stud in its hole. Be sure the flat
hicle control, possibly resulting in personal in- edge of the head flange on clipped studs is in
jury. line with the shoulder on the hub.
CAUTION
CAUTION: If headed studs with serrations are
being installed, position the teeth of the serrated
Replace portion in the notches carved by the original
wheel studs during factory installation. If addi-
tional metal is scraped from the wheel stud
bores, the locking action provided by the serra-
tions will be greatly weakened. Loss of locking
action will prevent achieving final torque of the
wheel nuts during wheel installation. If final
wheel nut torques during wheel installation can-
not be achieved, replace the wheel hub assembly.
IMPORTANT: If the driver’s side of the vehicle is
being serviced, the replacement wheel stud
08/26/94 f330010
must be stamped with an "L" (left-hand
threaded), and the nut’s face must be stamped
Fig. 1, Wheel Stud Replacement "Left." If the passenger’s side of the vehicle is
being serviced, the replacement stud must be
1. Remove the wheel hub from the axle. For in-
stamped with an "R" (right-hand threaded), and
the nut’s face must be stamped "Right" (
2. If a bent portion of a wheel stud will have to pass Fig. 2).
through the wheel stud bore, cut off the bent por-
tion before removing the wheel stud. 7. With steady movement, press the new stud all
the way into the hub.
3. Place the wheel hub on a suitable press; make
sure the hub flange is evenly supported around 8. Make sure the stud is fully seated and that its
and next to the stud being removed. With steady head (flange) is not embedded in the hub. If the
movement, press the damaged stud out of the head of the stud is embedded in the hub, replace
hub. the hub.
CAUTION WARNING
CAUTION: Do not use a drift and hammer or WARNING: Wheel studs with heads embedded in
concentrated heat for removing and installing the the wheel hub will weaken the wheel hub flange.
wheel studs. Constant, smooth movement of the Weakness in the wheel hub can result in the loss
wheel stud is necessary to ensure the least

33.02 Bearings
08/26/94 f350053a
A. "Right"
Fig. 2, Thread Stamp Location

of a wheel or loss of steering control, possibly
resulting in personal injury.
9. Wipe off any grease on the wheel studs and
wheel hub. Install wheel nuts on dry wheel studs
only.
10. Install the wheel hub on the axle. For instruc-

Bearings 33.02
Rim Stud Replacement, Spoke Wheels
Replacement 7. Install the rim and tire assembly. For instructions,

1. Remove the rim and tire assembly from the manual.
spoked wheel. For instructions, refer to the
wheels and tires section in this manual.
2. If enough threads remain on the damaged stud,
remove it by double-nutting the stud. Turn the
inner nut with a wrench in order to remove the
stud. Then, proceed to the next step.
If the rim stud is broken near the surface of the
wheel, the stud should be center-drilled using a
high-speed drill, and then removed with an easy-
out tool. If needed, grind off a flat surface on the
damaged stud, then centerpunch the surface as
a starting point for drilling. Follow these recom-
mendations:
2.1 Determine the correct drill diameter by
referring to the easy-out tool manufactur-
er’s guidelines. At no time should it be
large enough to penetrate the threads of
the stud; if the stud threads in the wheel
are damaged, replace the wheel.
2.2 Do not drill more than 1.25 inches (32
mm) into the broken stud, as measured at
the stud’s entrance into the wheel. Drilling
through the bottom of the rim stud could
damage the wheel. If the wheel is drilled
into, replace it.
2.3 While drilling, keep the cutting surfaces of
the drill well lubricated with oil, which acts
as a coolant. Allow the drill and drill bit to
cool frequently.
3. After the damaged stud is removed, tap out the
rim stud hole in the wheel to rid the threads of
old stud-locking compound. Use an appropriate
sized tap, depending on the original rim stud in-
stallation size.
4. Be sure the threads of the new stud are clean
and dry. Then, coat the insertion end of the rim
stud with an anaerobic thread- lock compound.
5. Using double nuts on the fine thread portion of
the stud, install the new stud. Seat the rim stud
using the torque values in the torque table in
6. Allow enough time for the thread-lock compound
to set, as suggested by the manufacturer.

Bearings 33.02
Troubleshooting
Problem—Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Not enough oil was used on the bearings, Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Coat the
or the wrong type of oil was used. bearing assemblies with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, refer to
Foreign matter or corrosive agents entered Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Also clean the
the bearing assembly. Dirt or metallic wheel hub, the axle spindle, and any other component in contact with the
debris from the bearings was not removed. bearing lubricant.
An incorrect adjustment of the wheel Adjust the wheel bearings following the instructions in Subject 100 and
bearings is causing noise and wear. Subject 102 in this section.
Flat spots or dents on the roller surface Clean, then inspect the bearing rollers. Replace the bearing if damaged. Coat
were caused by skidding of the roller or the replacement bearings with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, refer to
improper handling of the wheel bearing Specifications, 400.
during installation.
Problem—Broken Wheel or Rim Studs

The wheel or rim nuts were overtightened. Replace the wheel or rim studs. Refer to Group 40 for the wheel or rim nut
tightening sequence.
An incorrect nut tightening sequence was
used.
The wrong brake drums were installed. Install new brake drums.
Wheels are mismatched (hub-piloted Install properly matched wheels.
wheels are mixed with stud-piloted
wheels).
The vehicle is being overloaded. Do not exceed the maximum load-carrying capacity of the vehicle.
Problem—Damaged Hub
(Cracked hub) Local surface of an Replace the hub assembly. When removing the bearing cup, oven-heat the
aluminum hub was heated higher than hub.
350°F (177°C) during bearing cup
removal.
(Bent flange) Incorrect installation of the Replace the hub assembly. Replace the wheel studs as instructed in
wheel studs, such as using a hammer and Subject 130.
drift, or the hub flange was not fully
supported on the press during wheel stud
replacement.
Insufficient tightening of the wheel nuts to Replace the hub assembly and tighten the wheel nuts to the values in the
the wheel hub. torque table in Specifications, 400.

33.02 Bearings
Troubleshooting
Problem—Loss of Lubricant from the Wheel Hubs

The seals or gaskets are worn or Replace worn or damaged parts.
damaged.
Problem—Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Dirt or grease has built up on the brake Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
linings (glazing), or the brake linings have replace the drums.
worn excessively.
The brake drums are worn, heat-checked Install new brake drums.
or cracked.
Problem—Service Brakes Grab or Pull

For detailed information, refer to the air brake system troubleshooting section of this manual.
Problem—Poor Lining-to-Drum Contact

The inside surface of the brake drum is Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Install new brake
scored or grooved. drums or turn the drums.
The brake shoes are stretched or bent. Replace the brake shoes.
Undersized linings were installed. Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
An incorrect grind was used on the brake
linings.
bearings is causing wheel instability. Subject 102 in this section.
Problem—Brake Linings Are Tapered Across the Width

The inside surface of the brake drum is Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Turn or replace the
scored or grooved. drums.
The brake shoes are bent. Replace the brake shoes.
bearings is causing wheel instability. Subject 102 in this section
Problem—Brake Shoes on the Same Brake Are Wearing Unequally

The brake linings are not a matched set. Install a new matched set of brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
Different friction codes or different brands Clean, turn, or replace the drums.
of brake linings are installed.

Bearings 33.02
Troubleshooting

The brake shoes are stretched. Replace the brake shoes.
Problem—Shoes on Each Side of the Axle (Side-to-Side Brakes) Are Wearing Unequally
The inside surface of the brake drum is in Turn or replace the drums.
poor condition.
The wheel bearings are out of adjustment. Adjust the wheel bearings following the instructions in Subject 100 and
Subject 102 in this section.
Problem—Edge of the Lining Is Showing Wear

The brake lining is too wide. Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
The brake linings are misaligned because
of incorrectly drilled brake lining holes.
Undersized brake drums were installed. Install new brake drums.
There is an incorrect fit of the wheel onto Install new wheel bearings and adjust them following the instructions in
the spindle due to the wrong wheel Subject 100 and Subject 102 in this section.
bearings.
Problem—Brake Linings Are Scored or Grooved

Worn or scored brake drums have been Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Turn or replace the
causing poor contact with the brake brake drums.
linings.
There is abrasive material between the
lining and the drum.
Problem—Brake Linings Are Loose

The rivet holes in the brake shoes are to Replace the brake shoes.
large.
Incorrectly crimped rivets are working Replace the rivets.
loose and allowing the linings to move.
Rust has built up on the shoe table. Clean the brake shoe table of all rust, dirt, scale, and paint.

33.02 Bearings
Troubleshooting
Problem—Brake Lining Is Cracked at the Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes

Overtightening of the lining bolts is Install new brake linings. Replace the rivets or bolts with the correct size.
causing cracks.
The wrong size counter bore for the rivet
holes was made.
The wrong rivets or bolts were used. Replace the rivets or bolts with the correct size.
Problem—Out-of-Round Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes

The rivets or bolts are loose. Replace the brake shoes or linings.
Problem—Brake Drums Are Heat-Checked

The brake drums are out-of-round. Turn or replace the brake drums.
The brake linings are glazed (dirt or Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
grease build-up) or are worn unevenly. replace the drums.
The lining friction material for the operation
of the vehicle is incorrect.
There is a brake imbalance between the Do a brake balance test (tractor versus trailer). Contact the District Service
tractor and the trailer. Manager if help is needed.
Problem—Brake Drums Are Heavily Scored

The brake linings are damaged. Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
replace the drums.
There is excessive wear on the linings.
On the last brake reline, the drums were Turn the brake drums.
not turned.
Problem—Excessive Brake Lining Wear


Bearings 33.02
Specifications
Torque Values
Application Size (grade 8) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Hub Cap Capscrews 5/16–18 15 (20)
Spoke-Wheel Brake Drum Nuts 3/4–10 240 (325)
Spoke-Wheel Rim Studs 3/4–10 240 (325)
Wheel-Bearing Adjusting Nuts, Stage 2: Back Off Completely
—
4-Piece System, Standard Hub Stage 3: Tighten to 20 (27) While Rotating Hub
Stage 1: Tighten to 100 (136) While Spinning Wheel In both
Directions
Pro-Torq® Nuts — Stage 2: Back Off Completely and Spin the Wheel a Few Times
Stage 3: Tighten to 50 (68) While Spinning Wheel In both Directions
Stage 4: Back Off 1/8 to 1/6 Turn
Dana Spicer® Axle Recommended Lubricant

Lubricant Type Condition SAE Viscosity Grade
Eaton Roadranger® Synthetic Axle Over-the-Road Service 75W–90
Lubricants, or Equivalent with Military Off-Highway Equipment, or Under
Specification MIL–L–2105D 80W–140
Extra Heavy Loads
Table 2, Dana Spicer Axle Recommended Lubricant
Meritor Axle Recommended Lubricant

Lubricant Type Ambient Temperature SAE Viscosity Grade Meritor Specification
+10°F (–12.2°C) and up* 85W–140 0–76–A
–15°F (–26.1°C) and up* 80W–140 0–76–B
Hypoid Gear Oil API Service –15°F (–26.1°C) and up* 80W–90 0–76–D
Classification GL–5 –40°F (–40°C) and up* 75W–90 0–76–E
–40°F (–40°C) to +35°F (+2°C) 75W 0–76–J
–40°F (–40°C) and up* 75W–140 0–76–L
–40°F (–40°C) and up* 75W–90 0–76–N
Synthetic Gear Oil
–40°F (–40°C) and up* 75W–140 0–76–M
* There is no upper limit on these ambient temperatures, but axle sump temperature must never exceed 250°F (121°C).
Table 3, Meritor Axle Recommended Lubricant

33.02 Bearings
Specifications

Adjusting Nut —
Target: 175 (235)
1-1/8
2-5/8 or Target: 325 (440)


Front Axle Wheel Alignment 33.03
General Description
General Description dency to return to and maintain a straight-ahead po-

sition is reduced. Too much or too little caster in one
Correct front axle wheel alignment is needed to en- wheel can cause erratic steering when the service
sure long tire life, ease of handling, and steering sta- brakes are applied to stop the vehicle.
bility. One side of tread
Three factors are involved in wheel alignment: cam- worn excessively.
ber angle, caster angle, and wheel toe-in.
Camber angle ( Fig. 1) is the vertical tilt of the wheel
as viewed from the front of the vehicle. Camber
angle is measured in degrees, and is not adjustable.
Positive camber is the outward tilt of the wheel at the
top. Excessive positive camber in one wheel causes
the vehicle to pull in the opposite direction, rapidly
wearing the outboard side of the tire tread. Negative
camber is the inward tilt of the wheel at the top. Ex- 02/10/93 f400097
cessive negative camber in one wheel causes the
vehicle to pull in the same direction that the Fig. 2, Tire Damage Due to Excessive Camber
negative-camber wheel is on, wearing the inboard
Wheel toe-in ( Fig. 4) is the distance in inches that
side of the tire tread. If camber angles are not cor-
the front of the wheels are closer together than the
rect, the tires will wear smooth around the edge on
rear of the wheels, as viewed from the top. Wheel
one side. See Fig. 2.
toe-in is adjustable. If it is not adjusted correctly, the
vehicle could pull to one side while driving. Wheel
shimmy and cupped tire treads (indentations on the
Camber road contact surface of the treads) could occur. Also,
(Positive) rapid or severe tire wear on the steering axle could
occur, usually in a feather-edged pattern. See Fig. 5.
Advanced wear patterns can be seen, but less se-
vere wear patterns are detected only by rubbing the
palm of your hand flat across the tire tread.
Feather-edging more often affects the front tire on
the passenger’s side of the vehicle, and is usually
02/09/93 f330051 more apparent on the outside grooves of the tire.
Fig. 1, Camber Angle If any of the conditions listed above occur, the ve-
hicle could need a front end wheel alignment, and
Caster angle ( Fig. 3) is the tilt of the knuckle pin (or possibly, drive axle alignment. However, in some
kingpin) as viewed from the side. Caster angle is cases these conditions are not wheel alignment re-
measured in degrees and it is adjustable. A positive lated; refer to Troubleshooting, 300 for other pos-
caster angle is the tilt of the top of the knuckle pin sible causes.
toward the rear of the vehicle. A negative caster
angle is the tilt of the top of the knuckle pin toward If excessive tire tread wear has resulted from incor-
the front of the vehicle. Caster angles are based on rect wheel alignment, replace the damaged tires. For
the design load of the vehicle. An incorrect caster minimum tread wear specifications, refer to the
angle does not cause tire wear. However, a positive wheels and tires section in the vehicle maintenance
caster angle that exceeds specifications could cause manual.
vehicle shimmy, road shock, and an increased steer-
ing effort. A negative caster angle that does not meet
specifications could cause unstable steering. The
vehicle may wander and weave, and extra steering
effort may be necessary. After leaving a turn, the ten-

33.03 Front Axle Wheel Alignment
General Description
Positive
KNUCKLE PIN Caster A
(KINGPIN)
B
B−A = Toe−in
07/26/93 f330082
Zero Fig. 4, Wheel Toe-In (Overhead View)

Caster
Feathered Edge
05/09/93 f400094
Negative Fig. 5, Tire Damage Due to Excessive Toe-In or

Caster Incorrect Drive Axle Alignment
02/09/93 f400096
Fig. 3, Caster Angle

Preliminary Checks
Preliminary Checks
1. Steering axle wheel assemblies should be bal-
anced, especially for vehicles that travel at sus-
tained speeds of more than 50 mph (80 km/h).
Off-balance wheel assemblies cause vibrations
that result in severely shortened life for tires, and
steering suspension parts.
2. Do not mix tires of different size, type, or weight.
Tire wear should be even and not worn to limits
exceeding government specifications. Refer to
the wheels and tires section in this manual and
the vehicle maintenance manual for more infor-
mation. Replace any tire that is excessively
worn.
3. Check the inflation pressure of the tires. Refer to
the wheels and tires section in this manual for
recommended pressures. An underinflated tire
causes tread wear completely around both tire
shoulders. An overinflated tire causes tread wear
in the center of the tire. See Fig. 1.
4. Check for out-of-round wheels, rims, or wheel
stud holes. Replace the wheel if any of these
conditions exist.
5. On each side of the vehicle, check the height of
the chassis above the ground. Sagging, fatigued,
or broken suspension springs create a lopsided
vehicle appearance. This causes an unbalanced
weight distribution. Anything that changes the
ratio of weight on the springs affects the align-
ment angles and also the tire tread contact area.
Replace damaged springs as instructed in the
suspension section in this manual.
6. Inspect the front axle beam (also called the axle
center) for bends or twists. If the axle beam is
bent or twisted over 1/2 degree, replace it before
aligning the front axle wheels.
7. Check for damaged, worn, or bent steering gear
or linkage parts. Make sure the steering gear is
centered. Replace damaged components, and
adjust the steering gear, using the instructions in
the steering section in this manual.
8. Check the steering angle, and adjust the axle
steering stops, as needed. Refer to Subject 110.

Preliminary Checks
Underinflation Wear Overinflation Wear

SHOULDER CENTER TREAD
WEAR WEAR
02/09/93 f400095
Fig. 1, Tire Damage Due to Underinflated or Overinflated Tires

Steering Angle Checking and Adjusting
Checking and Adjusting If necessary, loosen the stopscrew locknut; ad-

just the stopscrew to contact the axle when the
maximum turning angle of the wheels is deter-
Steering (or turning) angle is the degree of front
mined.
wheel movement from a straight-ahead position to
either an extreme right or left position. Although front Tighten the locknut to the value in the torque
wheel movement can be limited by the amount of table under Specifications, 400.
internal travel in the steering gear, it generally de-
pends on how much clearance there is between
chassis components and the tire and wheel assem-
blies. All axles have adjustable stopscrew-and
locknut-type axle stops ( Fig. 1), which are located
on the rear side of each front axle spindle.
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu-

rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc-
1
tion. The turn plates for the front wheels must
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment
equipment must be calibrated every three
months by a qualified technician from the equip-
ment manufacturer. Freightliner dealers must
have proof of this calibration history.
1. Make sure the steering gear is in the center of
travel when the wheels are in a straight-ahead
position. Center the gear, using the instructions
in the steering section in this manual. Bottoming 06/07/93 f330016
of the steering gear must not occur when making 1. Stopscrew and Locknut
an extreme right or left turn.
Fig. 1, Axle Stop
2. If using stationary turn-plates or turntables (
Fig. 2), drive the vehicle on the plates; the tires
must be exactly straight ahead. Apply the parking
brakes.
If using portable gauges, apply the parking
brakes, chock the rear tires, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Place a turn-plate or turntable un-
der each tire. With the tires exactly straight
ahead,lower the vehicle so that the tires rest on
the center of the gauges.
3. Remove the lockpins from the gauges, and ad-
just the dials so that the pointers on both gauges
read zero.
4. With the brakes fully applied, turn the steering
wheel clockwise to the end of travel. Have some-
one check both sides of the vehicle for interfer-
ence at the tires and wheels. There must be at
least 0.50 inch (13 mm) clearance from any fixed 02/10/93 f400098
object, and 0.75 inch (19 mm) from any moving
object. Fig. 2, Turn-Plate (Turntable), Stationary Type

Steering Angle Checking and Adjusting
5. Repeat the step above with the steering wheel

turned counterclockwise. Adjust the axle stop, as
needed.
6. If equipped with power steering, adjust the steer-
ing gear so that pressure is released ahead of
the axle stop. This will prevent possible damage
to the steering or axle components. For poppet
valve adjustment instructions, refer to the steer-
ing section in this manual.
7. Drive the vehicle off the turn-plates or turntables,
or remove them from under the tires and lower
the vehicle.

Measuring and Adjusting Front Axle Wheel
Alignment Angles
Measuring and Adjusting

rotate freely without friction, and the alignment
equipment must be calibrated every three 10° 10°
have proof of this calibration history. 1 2
Precision instruments and equipment are needed for 10° 10°
accurately measuring and adjusting wheel alignment.
05/24/94 f460307a
Refer to the operating instructions provided by the
wheel alignment equipment manufacturer. 1. 8 o’Clock 2. 4 o’Clock
Before checking or correcting wheel alignment, make Fig. 1, Steering Wheel Position
sure the vehicle is at curb weight. Curb weight is the
weight of the unloaded vehicle complete with acces-
sories and full fuel tanks.
If a road test is necessary, the route should be one
that allows full left and right turns and full stops. It
should also include a length of straight, level road to
check the steering wheel position during straight-
ahead driving.
During the road test, note any steering effort and
possible roughness. Check for looseness, too much
wheel play, any tendency for the vehicle to lead in
one direction, and for pull during stopping.
Note the position of the steering wheel while driving
on a straight, level road. When the steering gear is
centered, the steering wheel spokes should be at the
4 and 8 o’clock positions, or within 10 degrees of
that position. See Fig. 1.
If there are any problems, refer to Subject 300.

Camber Angle Checking
Checking (See Fig. 1) WARNING

IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- WARNING: Trying to straighten a twisted or bent
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- front axle component can crack or weaken it. A
tion. The turn plates for the front wheels must cracked or weakened axle component could re-
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment sult in a collapsed front axle or the loss of a
equipment must be calibrated every three wheel, which could cause serious personal in-
months by a qualified technician from the equip- jury.
ment manufacturer. Freightliner dealers must 7. Remove the chocks from the tires.
A
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the rear
tires.
the ground. Place safety stands under the axle;
make sure the stands will support the weight of
the cab, frame, and front axle.
3. Before measuring camber, check the front wheel 08/29/94 f330051a
bearings for wear and incorrect adjustment. Try A. Camber (Positive)
moving the wheel on the axle spindle (steering
knuckle) either by grasping the front tire on the Fig. 1, Camber Angle
top and bottom, or by using a bar for leverage. If
movement between the brake drum and the
backing plate or other axle-mounted reference
point is 0.05 inch (1 mm) or more, the bearings
may be worn or incorrectly adjusted. Inspect the
wheel bearings for damage using the instructions
elsewhere in this section. If needed, replace or
adjust the bearings.
4. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
5. Using the alignment equipment manufacturer’s
instructions, measure the front wheel camber.
6. Compare the camber angles with those shown in
the appropriate table in Specifications, 400. Dif-
ferences between the measurements taken in
the step above and the angles in the table are
caused by damaged (bent) axle components.
Incorrect camber angles could be caused by
damage in one or more of the following front axle
components: the knuckle pin, the knuckle pin
bushings, the axle spindle, or the axle beam. Re-
place twisted or otherwise damaged compo-
nents. Don’t try to straighten twisted or bent
components; replace them with new compo-
nents. If a bent or twisted front axle knuckle pin,
axle spindle, or axle beam has been straight-
ened, the axle warranty will be voided.

Caster Angle Checking and Adjusting
Checking and Adjusting equipment must be calibrated every three

(See Fig. 1) ment manufacturer. Freightliner dealers must
1 A Using the alignment equipment manufacturer’s oper-
ating instructions, measure the front wheel caster.
Compare the caster angles with those shown the ap-
propriate table in Specifications, 400. If needed,
adjust the caster angle by placing wedge-shaped
shims between the axle spacer and the axle beam,
as follows ( see Fig. 2):
2
3
C 5
6
03/03/95 f320083a
1. Axle Spring U-Bolt

3. Spacer
4. Front Caster Shim
12/20/94 f400096a 5. Dowel Pin
A. Positive Caster 6. U-Bolt High Nut
B. Zero Caster
C. Negative Caster Fig. 2
1. Knuckle Pin (Kingpin)
IMPORTANT: Extreme angle shims cannot be
Fig. 1, Caster Angle used to correct caster angles that vary by more
than 2 degrees from the values in the table.
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- Weak or broken leaf springs, or worn shackle
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- bushings, can cause extreme deviations to
tion. The turn plates for the front wheels must caster angles. Replace damaged parts before
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment doing caster adjustments.

Caster Angle Checking and Adjusting
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the front

and rear tires.
2. Back off the U-bolt nuts from the U-bolts on one
side of the front axle. See Fig. 2.
3. Raise the spring away from the axle enough to
allow removal of the front caster shim.
4. Remove the shim, and install one that will pro-
vide the correct caster angle, as specified in the
table in Specifications, 400. Install the dowel
pin and check penetration.
IMPORTANT: Place front caster shims between
the axle beam and the axle spacer, or between
the axle beam and the shock absorber bracket.
See Fig. 2.
5. Lower the vehicle onto the axle.
6. Coat the threaded ends of the U-bolts with chas-
sis lube or an antiseize compound, such as Loc-
tite® 242. Tighten the U-bolt nuts to the value in
the appropriate table in Specifications, 400.
U-bolt nuts need periodic retightening. Refer to
the suspension section in the vehicle mainte-
nance manual for recommended intervals.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to periodically retighten the
U-bolt nuts could result in spring breakage and
abnormal tire wear.
7. Using the steps above, replace the shim on the
other side of the axle.
8. Remove the chocks from the tires. Do a final
caster angle check.

Wheel Toe-In Checking and Adjusting

A
(See Fig. 1 )
Using the alignment equipment manufacturer’s oper-

ating instructions, measure the wheel toe-in. Com-
pare the measurement with that shown in the appro-
priate table in Specifications, 400. If corrections are
needed, go to the applicable (tie rod adjustment)
step below.

tion. The turn plates for the front wheels must B
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment 08/29/94 f330082a
equipment must be calibrated every three NOTE: B minus A equals toe-in.
Fig. 1, Wheel Toe-In (Overhead View)
have proof of this calibration history. 7. Place the trammel bar at the front of the tires as
shown in Fig. 2. Adjust the scale end so that the
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the rear
pointers line up with the scribe lines. See Fig. 3.
tires.
8. Read the toe-in from the scale. Compare the
toe-in with the value in the appropriate table in
the ground. Place safety stands under the axle.
Specifications, 400. If corrections are needed,
Make sure the stands will support the weight of
go to the next step.
the cab, axle, and frame.
9. Loosen the tie rod (cross tube) clamp nuts, and
3. Using spray paint or a piece of chalk, mark the
turn the tie rod as needed.
entire center rib of each front tire.
If the vehicle is not on turn-plates or turntables,
4. Place a scribe or pointed instrument against the
move the vehicle backward and then forward
marked center rib of each tire, and turn the tires.
about six feet (two meters). This is important
The scribes must be held firmly in place so that
when setting the toe-in on vehicles equipped with
a single straight line is scribed all the way
radial tires.
around each tire.
Do a final wheel toe-in check to make sure that it
5. Place a turn-plate or turntable under each tire.
is correct.
Remove the safety stands from under the axle,
then lower the vehicle. Remove the lockpins from Tighten the clamp nuts to the values in the ap-
the gauges; make sure the tires are exactly propriate table in Specifications, 400.
straight ahead.
10. If not already done, remove the chocks from the
NOTE: If turn-plates or turntables are not avail- rear tires. Road test the vehicle.
able, lower the vehicle. Remove the chocks
from the rear tires and release the parking
brakes. Move the vehicle backward and then
forward about six feet (2 meters).
6. Place the trammel bar at the rear of the front
tires; locate the trammel pointers at spindle
height, and adjust the pointers to line up with the
scribe lines. Lock in place. Make sure that the
scale is set on zero.

Wheel Toe-In Checking and Adjusting
08/30/94 f330014a
Fig. 2, Trammel Bar Positioning
08/30/94 f400100a
Fig. 3, Calculating Wheel Toe-In

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting vided by either Rockwell or Eaton Corporation. For

tire inflation pressures, refer to the wheels and tires
section in this manual. For more steering system
Service instructions for most of the remedies below
troubleshooting information, refer to the steering sec-
are found by referring to the index in the back of this
manual. For axles, refer to the service literature pro-
Problem - Hard Steering
Problem - Hard Steering
Tire pressure is low in one or both front Inflate tires to the correct pressure.
tires.
Binding in the steering gear due to a lack Lubricate the steering gear. For instructions, refer to the vehicle maintenance
of lubrication. manual.
Too much caster angle in the front wheels. Check the caster angle and adjust as needed
The front suspension is sagging due to a Repair or replace the spring as needed. For instructions, refer to the
damaged spring. suspension section in this manual.
The axle spindle is bent. Replace the spindle.
The frame is misaligned. Check the frame alignment; correct, as needed.
Low pressure in the power steering Repair the power steering system.
system.
Steering gear is not assembled correctly. Assemble the steering gear correctly.
King pins are binding. Replace the king pins.
Steering arm geometry is incorrect. Service the steering system as necessary.
Tie rod ends are hard to move. Replace the tie rod ends.
Thrust bearing is worn. Replace the thrust bearing.
Problem - Erratic Steering When the Brakes are Applied

Problem - Erratic Steering When the
Brakes are Applied
Tire pressure is low in one or both front Inflate the tires to the correct pressure.
tires.
One or more front axle spring U-bolt nuts Check the U-bolt nuts for looseness. If loose, check the U-bolt for damage.
are loose. Replace damaged parts; tighten loose nuts.
The brakes are not adjusted evenly. Adjust the brakes on all axles. Also, check the operation of the slack
adjusters.
Grease or oil contamination of the brake Replace the brake linings and clean the drums. Find and correct the cause of
linings is reducing brake effectiveness. grease or oil contamination.
The caster angle is wrong. Check, and adjust as needed.
An axle spindle is bent. Replace the axle spindle.
The front axle wheel bearings are worn or Check the bearings for wear or damage; replace as needed.
were incorrectly adjusted.

Troubleshooting
Problem - Vehicle Pulls to One Side During Operation

Problem - Vehicle Pulls to One Side
During Operation
tires.
One or more of the alignment Check all the alignment measurements. Correct as needed.
measurements are incorrect.
The wheels or tires are out-of-round. Inspect the wheels and tires. Replace out-of-round parts.
The front axle wheel bearings are too Check the bearings for wear or other damage. Replace the bearings if
tightly adjusted. needed.
The front suspension is sagging due to a Repair or replace the spring as needed. For instructions, refer to the
damaged spring. suspension section in this manual.
The frame is misaligned. Check the frame alignment; correct as needed.
The rear axle(s) is out of alignment. Check, and if needed, adjust the rear axle alignment.
Problem - Front Wheel Wander

Problem - Front Wheel Wander
One or more wheels or brake drums are Balance the wheels. Check for out-of-round brake drums; correct as needed.
out-of-balance.
One of the front springs is weak or broken. Repair or replace the spring as needed. For instructions, refer to the
suspension section in this manual.
Problem - Front Wheel Shimmy

tires.
One or more wheels or brake drums are Balance the wheels. Check for out-of-round brake drums, correct or replace
out-of-balance. as needed.
One or more tires are out-of-round or Replace the tire.
bulged.
The front axle wheel bearings are worn or Check the bearings for wear or other damage. Replace the bearings if
were incorrectly adjusted. needed.
Parts of the steering gear or linkage are Test for play in the steering gear and linkage with the front tires off the
worn. ground. Replace parts as needed.
One or more of the alignment Check all alignment measurements and correct as needed.
The knuckle pin is loose due to worn Inspect the knuckle pin and bushings for damage. Replace worn or damaged
bushings. parts as needed.

Troubleshooting

Shock absorbers are worn or damaged. Check the shock absorbers and replace if needed.
Caster is out of adjustment. Adjust the caster.
Problem - Vehicle Wanders

Problem - Vehicle Wanders
tires.
One or more of the alignment Check all of the alignment measurements; correct as needed.
The rear axle(s) is out of alignment. Check the rear axle alignment and adjust as needed.
Parts of the steering gear or linkage are Test for play in the steering gear and linkage with the front tires off the
worn. ground. Replace parts as needed.
A knuckle pin is loose due to worn Inspect the knuckle pin and bushings for damage. Replace worn or damaged
bushings. parts.
Problem - Cupped Tires

Problem - Cupped Tires
Tire pressure is too low or too high in one Inflate or deflate the tires to the correct pressure.
or both front tires.
One or more wheels or brake drums are Balance the wheels. Check for eccentric brake drums; correct or replace as
out-of-balance. needed.
The wheel toe-in is not correct. Adjust the wheel toe-in.
The brakes are not adjusted evenly. Adjust the brakes on all axles. Also, check the operation of the slack
adjusters.
The front axle wheel bearings are worn or Check the bearings for wear or other damage; replace them if needed.
were not adjusted correctly.
The camber angle is not within Check the front wheel camber angle. If not correct, find and replace the
specifications. damaged axle component.
Problem - Steering Wheel Spokes Do Not Point at the 4 and 8 O’clock Positions
Problem - Steering Wheel Spokes Do
Not Point at the 4 and 8 O’clock
Positions
The steering gear is not centered. Center the steering gear.
If adjustable, the drag link is out of Adjust the drag link.
adjustment.

Troubleshooting
Problem - Steering Wheel Spokes Do

Not Point at the 4 and 8 O’clock
Positions
The steering wheel was not installed Reposition the steering wheel on the steering column.
(positioned) correctly on the steering
column.
The pitman arm is not correctly aligned Reposition the pitman arm on the steering gear output shaft. For instructions,
with the timing mark on the steering gear refer to the steering section in this manual.
output shaft.
Problem - Tires Wear Out Quickly or Have Uneven Tire Tread Wear
Problem - Tires Wear Out Quickly or
Have Uneven Tire Tread Wear
Tires have incorrect air pressure. Inflate or deflate the tires to the correct pressure.
Tires are out of balance. Balance or replace the tires.
Tandem axle alignment is incorrect. Align the tandem axles.
Toe-in setting is incorrect. Adjust toe-in to the specified setting.
Steering arm geometry is incorrect. Service the steering arm as necessary.
Problem - Ends of the Cross Tube are Worn

Problem - Ends of the Cross Tube are
Worn
Ends of the cross tube need lubrication. Lubricate the ends of the cross tube. Make sure lubrication schedule is
followed.
Vehicle is operated in severe conditions. Operate the vehicle correctly.
Boot on end of cross tube is damaged. Replace the boot.
Add-on type of power steering cylinders Install the power steering cylinders correctly.
are not installed correctly.
Problem - Bent or Broken Cross Tube, Ball Stud, Steering Arm or Cross Tube Arm
Problem - Bent or Broken Cross Tube,
Ball Stud, Steering Arm or Cross Tube
Arm
Too much pressure in the power steering Adjust the power steering system to the specified pressure.
system.
Cut-off pressure in the power steering Adjust the power steering system to the specified pressure.
system is out of adjustment.
Vehicle is not operated correctly. Make sure vehicle is operated correctly.

Troubleshooting
Problem - Bent or Broken Cross Tube,

Ball Stud, Steering Arm or Cross Tube
Arm
Add-on type power steering system is not Install the add-on power steering system correctly.
installed correctly.
Problem - Worn or Broken Steering Ball Stud

Problem - Worn or Broken Steering Ball
Stud
Drag link fasteners are tightened past Tighten the drag link fasteners to the specified torque.
specified torque.
Lack of lubrication, or lubricant is incorrect. Lubricate the linkage with specified lubricant.
Power steering stops are out of Adjust the stops to specified dimension.
adjustment.
Problem - Worn King Pins and Knuckle Bushings

Problem - Worn King Pins and Knuckle
Bushings
Seals and gaskets are worn or missing. Replace the seals and gaskets.
Lubricant is incorrect. Lubricate the axle with specified lubricant.
Axle is not lubricated at scheduled Lubricate the axle at scheduled frequency.
frequency.
Lubrication procedures are incorrect. Use the correct lubrication procedures.
Lubrication schedule does not match the Change the lubrication schedule to match the operating conditions.
operating conditions.

Specifications
IMPORTANT: When aligning the front axle, it is the rear axle(s) has a direct impact on how the
essential that the rear axle(s) be checked for vehicle tracks. See Section 35.03, Specifica-
proper alignment at the same time. Alignment of tions 400.
Left-Hand-Drive Camber and Toe-In

Axle Left Camber * Right Camber * Toe-In Limits Toe-In Target
Axle Model
Manufacturer Degrees Degrees inch (mm) inch (mm)
FF-943
Axles built before
FF-961 September 1992: †
FG-941 +1/4 ± 7/16
Meritor FL-941 –1/4 ± 7/16

Axles built from
FG-943 September 1,
0 to +1/8 ‡
1992: † +1/16 (+1.6)
FF-965
(0 to +3.2)
–1/4 ± 7/16
FF-981
Freightliner FK-120 +1/2 ± 1/4 +1/2 ± 1/4
EFA-12F4
Dana Spicer E1200 I +7/16 ± 7/16 +7/16 ± 7/16
E1320I
* Camber angle under axle rated load with axle installed in vehicle.
† A manufacturer’s code tag is riveted to the front of the axle beam for identification. Tags with no date code, or with a date code followed by the letter "P" (for
example "24592P"), were manufactured before September 1, 1992.
‡ If adjustment is required, set the toe-in as close as possible to +1/16 inch.
Table 1, Left-Hand-Drive Camber and Toe-In
Left-Hand-Drive Caster
Bee Line
Axle Beissbarth Hunter Target, All Models
Manufacturer Degrees Except LC 4000 LC 4000 Degrees Degrees
Degrees Degrees
Meritor,
Left +3-1/2; Right
Freightliner, and +3 to +6-1/2 +3 to +6-1/2 +2-1/4 to +4-3/4 +1-1/2 to +5
+4
Dana Spicer
IMPORTANT: Caster settings for the left and right sides must be within 1/2 degree of each other. It is necessary for only
one side to be within the specifications given in this table.
Table 2, Left-Hand-Drive Caster
Tie Rod Clamp Nut Torque Values

Tie Rod Clamp Plain Nut Torque * Locknut Torque *
Axle Manufacturer Axle Model
Nut Size lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·ft (N·m)
FF–943, FF–961, FG–941, FL–941,
Meritor 5/8–11 40–60 (54–81) 40–60 (54–81)
FG–943
FF–943, FF–961, FG–941, FL–941,
Meritor 5/8–18 40–60 (54–81) 40–55 (54–75)
FG–943

Specifications
Tie Rod Clamp Nut Torque Values

Tie Rod Clamp Plain Nut Torque * Locknut Torque *
Axle Manufacturer Axle Model
Nut Size lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·ft (N·m)
Freightliner FK–120 7/16–14 — 46–50 (62–68)
Dana Spicer EFA–12F4 1/2–13 — 45–60 (61–81)
* All torque values in this table apply to parts lightly coated with rust-preventive type oil.
Table 3, Tie Rod Clamp Nut Torque Values
Miscellaneous Torque Values Miscellaneous Torque Values

Torque Torque
Description Description
lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·ft (N·m)
U-Bolt Nuts 7/8–14 400 (542) Dana Spicer Stopscrew Locknut 90–120 (122–163)
Meritor Stopscrew Locknut 50–65 (68–88) Table 4, Miscellaneous Torque Values
Freightliner Stopscrew Locknut 80–85 (108–115)
Right-Hand-Drive Bias Camber and Toe-In

Curb Side Driver Side
Axle Toe-In Limits Toe-In Target
Axle Model Camber * Camber *
Manufacturer inch (mm) inch (mm)
Degrees Degrees
0 to +1/8 †
Meritor FG–941 –1/2 ± 7/16 3/4 ± 7/16 +1/16 (+1.6)
(0 to +3.2)
* Camber angle under axle rated load with axle installed in vehicle.
† If adjustment is required, set the toe-in as close as possible to +1/16 inch.
Table 5, Right-Hand-Drive Bias Camber and Toe-In
Right-Hand-Drive Caster
Bee Line
Axle Beissbarth Hunter Target, All Models
Manufacturer Degrees Except LC 4000 LC 4000 Degrees Degrees
Degrees Degrees
Left +4; Right +3-
Meritor +3 to +6-1/2 +3 to +6-1/2 +2-1/4 to +4-3/4 +1-1/2 to +5
1/2
IMPORTANT: Caster settings for the left and right sides must be within 1/2 degree of each other. It is necessary for only
one side to be within the specifications given in this table.
Table 6, Right-Hand-Drive Caster

Front Axle Oil Seal, Eaton 33.04
Seal Replacement, Outrunner™
Replacement scratch the bearing roller surfaces, and

cause premature wear of the bearing as-
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle. sembly.
For instructions, refer to section 33.02 in this 4.1 Inspect the inner hub bore. Remove dirt
service manual group for instructions. and contaminants from all recesses and
2. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from corners. Smooth any sharp edges with
the axle. Handling the bearings with clean dry emery cloth, and fill in any grooves with
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper filler. See Fig. 2.
CAUTION
through an axle ring (wear sleeve). A sharp chisel
could damage the spindle or shoulder.
3. Remove the steel axle ring (wear sleeve) by
striking the ring surface several times with a ball-
peen hammer ( see Fig. 1). Then, remove the
stretched axle ring from the spindle.
11/30/94 f330021a
Fig. 2, Clean and Inspect the Hub Bore

4.2 Wipe the hub area with a clean shop
cloth.
4.3 After removing the wear sleeve, inspect
the spindle. Remove any sharp edges
and burrs from the leading edges and the
shoulder area. Repair deep gouges with
filler and smooth with an emery cloth.
See Fig. 3.
03/08/94 f330026a 4.4 Wipe the seal and shoulder area with a
clean shop cloth.
Fig. 1, Removing the Axle Ring
4. Clean and inspect the bearings, the spindle, CAUTION
spindle threads, seal bore, and the hub cavity.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning time. Dirt or grit can scratch the roller surface
the wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, and cause rapid wear of the bearing assembly.
metal filings, or other contaminants can Treat used bearings as carefully as new ones.

33.04 Front Axle Oil Seal, Eaton
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not use any silicone or permatex
type bore sealant with this seal. The Eaton Cor-
poration recommends a light coating of bearing
oil on the outer circumference of the seal.
Do not mix lubricants of different grades. No not
mix mineral and synthetic lubricants. Do not pack
the bearings with grease when using an oil bath
system. Failure to follow these installation guid-
lines will result in less than desired performance
of the Outrunner seal, and installation-related fail-
ures are not covered under warranty.
6.1 Place the outrunner seal tool with the
words "air side" facing the adaptor plate
of the installation tool. See Fig. 5. Lubri-
cate the seal outer circumference with
wheel bearing oil.
08/08/94 f330096a
Fig. 3, Clean and Inspect the Axle Spindle

4.5 Inspect the bearings and hub components
for wear or damage. Replace any worn or
damaged components as necessary.
4.6 Coat the wheel bearing cones with oil.
wheel bearing cup.
IMPORTANT: Use the Eaton Outrunner installa-
tion tool with the centering tool when installing
the seal. See Fig. 4.
6. Install the oil seal in the hub bore.
03/27/95 f330117
Fig. 5, Seal Placement on Tool

2 3
1 IMPORTANT: Install the seal in the hub bore
with the hub layed flat. Do not install the
seal with the hub in the vertical (upright) po-
sition.
6.2 With the hub and the wheel assembly
layed flat on the floor, place the inner
bearing cone in the cup.
03/27/95 f330118
6.3 Position the oil seal in the hub bore. Be-
1. Outrunner Handle fore striking the handle of the installation
2. Outrunner Adapter Plate tool, tap the adaptor plate around the
3. Bearing Centering Tool outer edge to position the seal.
Fig. 4, Eaton Outrunner Installation Tool See Fig. 6.

Front Axle Oil Seal, Eaton 33.04
03/27/95 f330119
Fig. 6, Position the Seal

6.4 Hit the handle of the installation tool gen-
tly. See Fig. 7 .
Because of the rubber outer circumfer-
03/30/95 f330124
ence, the Outrunner seal is easier to in-
stall than seals with metal outer circum- Fig. 7, Install the Seal
ferences. When the adaptor plate bottoms
out on the hub surface, the seal is in- 11. Adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance. For
stalled correctly. You will hear a metal-to- instructions, refer to the brake section in the ve-
metal sound. hicle maintenance manual.
6.5 Check that the seal is not cocked, and
that the unitized seal inner circumference
and inner bearing turn freely.
6.6 Lubricate the inner circumference of the
seal with a light film of clean bearing oil.
7. Install the wheel hub on the axle. Adjust the
wheel bearings. For instructions, refer to sec-
tion 33.02 in this service manual group.
IMPORTANT: When starting the wheel on the
spindle, center the hub carefully to avoid seal
damage from the leading edge of the spindle.
8. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position,
then install the capscrews. Tighten the cap-
9. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
hubcap. See Fig. 8. Do not overfill.
10. Spin the wheel and check the oil level.

33.04 Front Axle Oil Seal, Eaton
02/09/93 f330025a
1. Filler Plug
Fig. 8, Fill the Hub with Oil

Detroit™ Front Axles 33.05
General Information
General Information
Detroit front axles have a unique steering knuckle
design that reduces vibration and wear. Low-friction,
high-strength needle bearings roll on a large-
diameter kingpin, replacing the conventional bush-
ings. They are compatible with industry-standard
brakes, hubs, and wheel bearings.
The following explains a typical model code found on
a Detroit front axle identification tag. See Fig. 1.
Typical Model Code: AF-12-3.
• AF = front axle
• 12 = Weight Rating (times 1000 lb)
• 3 = Model Number
Serial No. lbs
Part No. Model
12/03/2007 f080150
Fig. 1, Front Axle ID Tag
NOTE: Detroit axles are a proprietary product,

though in some applications they may be re-
ferred to as "Freightliner" or "Axle Alliance"
axles or "MB components."

Axle Removal and Installation
Removal 17. If you are replacing the steering knuckles, put

the axle on a suitable stand and secure it to pre-
vent it from moving.
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
rear tires. Put the transmission in neutral. Installation
2. At both ends of the front axle, loosen all the
wheel nuts. 1. With the axle on a suitable jack, position it under
the vehicle.
WARNING 2. For vehicles with front air suspension, raise the
axle so that the holes in the axle beam line up
Never work around or under a vehicle that is sup- with the bolts holding the air bags to the leaf
ported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle springs. Install the nuts and washers and tighten
with safety stands. Jacks can slip, causing the the nuts 220 lbf·ft (298 N·m).
vehicle to fall, which could result in serious in-
For vehicles with a leaf-spring front suspension,
jury or death.
install the U-bolts and nuts. For instructions on
3. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with tightening U-bolt nuts, see the applicable section
safety stands. in Group 32.
4. Drain the air system. 3. If so equipped, connect the sway bar to the axle
5. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies. For brackets. Tighten the sway bar fasteners 100
instructions, see Group 40. lbf·ft (136 N·m).
6. Remove the front hubs from the axle. See Sec- 4. Connect the drag link to the steering arm. For
tion 33.02 for instructions. instructions, see the applicable section in
Group 46.
7. For drum brakes, remove the brake shoes; see
the applicable service brake section in Group 42 5. Install the brake spiders on the axle flanges. For
for instructions. instructions, see the applicable service brake
section in Group 42.
8. Remove the ABS sensors and wiring from the
brake spiders (anchor plates) and secure them 6. Install the brake air chambers and slack adjust-
and their wiring out of the way. ers onto the axle. For instructions, see the appli-
cable sections in Group 42.
9. Remove the brake air chambers and the slack
adjusters. For instructions, see the applicable 7. Install the ABS sensors.
sections in Group 42. 8. For drum brakes, install the brake shoes; see the
10. Remove the brake spiders from the axle flanges. applicable service brake section in Group 42 for
For instructions, see the applicable service brake instructions.
section in Group 42. 9. Install the hubs. For instructions, see Sec-
11. Disconnect the drag link from the axle steering tion 33.02.
arm. 10. Install the brake drums.
12. If so equipped, disconnect the sway bar from the 11. Adjust the slack adjusters. For instructions, see
axle brackets. the applicable section in Group 42.
13. Using a suitable jack, support the front axle. 12. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. For instruc-
14. Remove the U-bolt nuts or remove the nuts hold- tions, see Group 40.
ing the axle beam to the leaf springs and the air 13. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands, and
bag brackets, as applicable. lower the vehicle.
15. Remove the U-bolts, if applicable. 14. Start the engine and build the air pressure.
16. Remove the axle from the vehicle. 15. If equipped with a front air suspension, ensure
that the suspension air bags inflate correctly.

Steering Knuckle Disassembly and Assembly
Disassembly 6. Remove the steering knuckle and spindle assem-

bly from the axle beam. See Fig. 1.
NOTE: The following procedures can be done 6.1 Remove the upper and lower snap rings
with the axle installed on the vehicle or with the that hold the cover plates in place.
axle removed from the vehicle. 6.2 Remove the upper and lower cover plates
1. If the axle has been removed, make sure it is from the steering knuckle.
securely mounted on a suitable stand. Go to the 6.3 Remove and discard the O-ring from the
step for removing the tie rod from the tie-rod edges of each cover plate.
arm.
6.4 Note the orientation of the draw keys and
If the axle is on the vehicle, park the vehicle on a the kingpin, then remove the draw keys
level surface, shut down the engine, set the and nuts that hold the kingpin in place.
parking brake, and chock the rear tires. Drain the
air system. 6.5 Using a brass drift, remove the kingpin by
driving it downward. Note where the
2. If the axle is on the vehicle, do the following sub-
needle bearings were installed.
steps to gain access to the steering knuckle.
6.6 Remove the spacer(s) and shim(s) from
2.1 Remove the wheel and tire assembly from
the upper surface of the axle beam bore.
the applicable side of the vehicle.
6.7 Push down on the steering knuckle and
2.2 Remove the hub. For instructions, see
spindle assembly to clear the lip on the
Section 33.02.
thrust friction bearing and remove the as-
2.3 Remove the brake shoes. For instructions, sembly from the axle beam bore.
see the applicable service brake section in
NOTE: The steering knuckle on the passenger
Group 42.
side (side without a steering arm) has a thrust
2.4 Remove the ABS sensor and wiring from roller bearing instead of a thrust friction bearing.
the brake spider (anchor plate), and se- Unlike the thrust friction bearing, the thrust roller
cure the sensor and the wiring out of the bearing has no protruding lip at the top. When
way. removing the thrust roller bearing from the axle
2.5 Disconnect the air line from the brake air beam bore, it is not necessary to push down on
chamber, then remove the air chamber the steering knuckle.
and the slack adjusters. For instructions,
7. Remove the grease seal from the upper steering-
see the applicable sections in Group 42.
knuckle bore.
2.6 Remove the brake spider from the axle 8. Remove the thrust friction bearing (driver side) or
flange. For instructions, see the applicable the thrust roller bearing (passenger side) from
service brake section in Group 42. the top of the lower steering knuckle bore.
2.7 Disconnect the drag link from the steering NOTE: If removing the thrust friction bearing
arm, if present.
(driver side), note the orientation of the bearing
NOTE: On the driver side of the vehicle, the for future reference.
steering arm connects to the steering 9. Using a suitable bushing driver, drive out the
knuckle; on the passenger side, no steering needle bearings from the steering knuckle bores.
arm is present.
10. If needed, repeat the entire procedure for the
3. If not already done, disconnect the tie rod from other side of the axle assembly.
the tie-rod arm.
4. Remove the tie-rod arm from the steering
knuckle. See Fig. 1.
5. Remove the steering arm. See Fig. 1.

33.05 Detroit™ Front Axles
16 17
15
14
13
12 21
18
22
18 19
20
11
10
9
22
3
7
2
24
6
25 23
5
4
26
27
06/08/2011 f330211a
NOTE: The number of upper and lower needle bearing sets may vary, depending on the axle model.
1. Tie-Rod Ball Joint 9. Lower Draw Key Nut 18. Shim
2. Castle Nut 10. Upper Draw Key 19. Upper Draw Key Nut
3. Cotter Pin 11. Grease Seal 20. Lower Draw Key
4. Lower Grease Fitting 12. Steering Knuckle 21. Steering Arm
5. Lower Snap Ring 13. Upper Needle Bearing (may be 22. Steering Arm Capscrew
6. Lower Cover Plate one or two sets) 23. Axle Beam
7. Lower Needle Bearings (may be 14. Upper Cover Plate 24. Tie-Rod Arm Capscrews
one or two sets) 15. Upper Snap Ring 25. Tie-Rod Arm
8. Thrust Friction Bearing (thrust 16. Upper Grease Fitting 26. Tie-Rod Clamp
roller bearing on the passenger 17. Kingpin 27. Tie-Rod Tube
side)
Fig. 1, Front Axle Components (driver side shown)

Assembly 5.2 Align the steering knuckle with the axle

beam, then check the clearance between
the axle beam bore and the upper steer-
IMPORTANT: If replacing the kingpin, use a ing knuckle bore. Clearance is to be a
complete rebuild kit with all new components. maximum of 0.007 inch (0.18 mm).
1. Clean the steering knuckle bores and the axle 5.3 If needed, install sufficient spacers to re-
beam bores. Check for damage such as duce the clearance to a maximum of
grooves, scratches, and pitting. 0.007 inch (0.18 mm).
If any bores show significant damage, replace 6. Install the kingpin fully into the steering knuckle
the component. bores, ensuring that the flats on the kingpin are
2. Install the grease seal — with the grooved side still aligned with the draw-key holes in the axle
down (toward the road) — into the top of the beam, and that the top of the kingpin (marked
upper steering knuckle bore. Carefully drive the "Top") is properly positioned.
seal down into the bore until the outer edge of IMPORTANT: Make sure the new draw keys are
the seal is flush with the bottom edge of the
the same length as those removed. On some
bore. Make sure the seal is not cocked.
axle models the lower draw key is longer than
3. Install new needle bearings into the bores of one the upper one.
of the steering knuckles. Install the same number
of bearings as was removed. 7. Install new upper and lower draw keys and nuts.
See Fig. 1.
NOTE: Install the needle bearings just far
enough into the bores so that the cover plates IMPORTANT: Incorrect installation of the
can be installed. draw keys could cause interference with the
steering stop bolt.
4. Install a new thrust friction bearing (driver side)
or thrust roller bearing (passenger side) into the 7.1 Install the upper draw key from the back
top of the lower steering knuckle bore. Install the of the axle, and the lower one from the
thrust friction bearing (or thrust roller bearing) front of the axle.
with the sealed side up. 7.2 Tighten the draw-key nuts 30 to 55 lbf·ft
NOTE: The thrust friction bearing has a protrud- (40 to 75 N·m).
ing lip at the top; the thrust roller bearing has no 8. Install new grease fittings and cover plates.
such protruding lip.
8.1 Install the new upper cover plate (with a
5. Partially install the steering knuckle onto the axle new O-ring) and the snap ring. Install the
beam. new grease fitting into the cover plate.
5.1 Making sure the flats on the kingpin are 8.2 Install the new lower cover plate (with a
aligned with the draw-key holes in the axle new O-ring) and the snap ring. Install the
beam, put the new kingpin into the top new grease fitting into the cover plate.
bore of the steering knuckle. Note that the
top of the new kingpin is clearly marked. 9. Install the steering arm. Apply Loctite® 277 to the
Push the kingpin through the axle beam threads and tighten the steering arm capscrews:
bore until the upper end of the kingpin is if M20 capscrews are used, tighten them 425
flush with the upper surface of the axle lbf·ft (575 N·m); if M24 capscrews are used,
beam bore. tighten them 664 lbf·ft (900 N·m).
IMPORTANT: To correctly check the clear- 10. Attach the tie-rod arm to the steering knuckle.
Apply Loctite® 277 to the threads and tighten the
ance, the thrust friction or thrust roller bear- tie-rod arm capscrews: if M20 capscrews are
ing must be installed correctly, and upward used, tighten them 425 lbf·ft (575 N·m); if M24
pressure must be applied to the steering capscrews are used, tighten them 664 lbf·ft (900
knuckle. N·m).

33.05 Detroit™ Front Axles
11. Attach the tie-rod arm to the tie rod. Tighten the
castle nut 120 to 170 lbf·ft (163 to 230 N·m) plus
a maximum of one-sixth of a turn to align a slot
in the castle nut with the cotter pin hole in the tie
rod stud. Insert the cotter pin and bend the tangs
to secure it.
12. If removed, install the axle.
13. If removed, connect the drag link to the steering
arm.
14. Install the brake spider on the axle flange. For
instructions, see the applicable service brake
section in Group 42.
15. Install the brake air chambers and slack adjust-
ers on the axle. For instructions, see the appli-
cable sections in Group 42.
16. Install the ABS sensor.
17. Install the brake shoes. For instructions, see the
applicable service brake section in Group 42.
18. Install the hub. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 33.02.
19. If so equipped, install the brake drum.
20. Install the tire and wheel assembly. For instruc-
tions, see Group 40.
21. If necessary, repeat the entire procedure for the
other side of the vehicle.
22. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.

Specifications
Torque Values
Application Size Class Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Draw-Key Nuts — — 30–55 (40–75)
M20 x 1.5 10.9 425 (575)*
Steering Arm Capscrews
M24 x 1.5 10.9 664 (900)*
Sway Bar Fasteners — — 100 (136)
M20 x 1.5 10.9 425 (575)*
Tie-Rod Arm Capscrews
M24 x 1.5 10.9 664 (900)*
* Apply Loctite® 277.

Rear Axle Oil Seal, Stemco Guardian® 35.00
General Description
General Description
Oil seals keep oil in the hub to lubricate the wheel
bearings. They also protect the wheel bearings from
dirt, dust, and water. The oil seal fits between the
hub bore and the axle spindle. See Fig. 1.
WHEEL
BEARING
ROLLERS
DRIVE
AXLE
SHAFT OIL SEAL
OIL LEVEL
11/22/95 f350016
Fig. 1

Seal Replacement
Replacement seal and allow oil to escape from the hub. Re-
move any spacer rings or washers, if so
equipped.
Review the rear axle section of the vehicle mainte-
nance manual before beginning the service opera-
tions below. It provides lubrication requirements and
additional instructions for oil seal replacement.
ment. Release the parking brakes.
the ground. Then, place safety stands under the
axle.
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the rear
axle brake shoes.
Refer to the rear axle section in this manual for
instructions.
5. Remove the old oil seal from the hub or spindle. 02/02/93 f330026
6. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore, Fig. 1

and the hub cavity.
CAUTION
through an axle ring. A sharp chisel could dam-
age the spindle or shoulder.
7. Remove the steel axle ring by striking the ring
surface several times with a ball-peen hammer (
Fig. 1). The stretched axle ring can then be re-
moved from the spindle.
8. Using a wire brush, remove any old sealant and
corrosion from the spindle and shoulder. Remove
any burrs with an emery cloth ( Fig. 2).
02/02/93 f330093
WARNING Fig. 2
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are IMPORTANT: Clean the wheel hub cavity and
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may axle spindle. Dirt, metal filings, or other contami-
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the nants can scratch the bearing roller surfaces,
safety precautions recommended by the solvent and cause rapid wear of the bearing assembly.
manufacturer.
11. Inspect the bearings and hub parts for wear or
9. Wipe the spindle and shoulder clean with safety damage. Replace any worn or damaged parts as
solvent. necessary.
10. Remove any burrs from the inside of the hub
bore ( Fig. 3). The hub bore must be free of
burrs that will scratch the outside diameter of the

35.00 Rear Axle Oil Seal, Stemco Guardian®
Seal Replacement
13. Place the oil seal on the spindle so the words

A "oil-bearing side" are exposed to the oil. A slight
step on the inside diameter of the seal ring will
allow it to be placed by hand about 1/8 inch (3
mm) onto the shoulder. See Fig. 5.
1
03/08/94 f330095a
1. Hub
A. Check for burrs.
Fig. 3
02/01/93 f330027
1 Fig. 5
2
3
03/08/94 f330094a
1. Nonhardening Sealant
2. Spindle
3. Shoulder
Fig. 4
CAUTION
02/01/93 f330090
time. Dirt or grit can scratch the roller surface Fig. 6
Treat used bearings as carefully as new ones. CAUTION
12. If burrs were removed from the spindle shoulder,
apply a thin layer of a nonhardening sealant to CAUTION: Do not install the oil seal in the hub
the spindle shoulder, as shown in Fig. 4. bore. Incorrect seal installation will damage the
seal and lead to possible spindle, hub, and bear-
NOTE: Use a nonhardening sealant such as ing damage.
Permatex® Number-2 or Loctite® 515. 14. Position the installation tool, specified by Stemco
for the axle on the vehicle, over the spindle (

Seal Replacement
Fig. 6). Using a 3 to 5 lb (1 to 2 kg) hammer,

drive the seal on the spindle until the tool bot-
toms against the shoulder. After it bottoms, turn
the tool while applying several light taps with the
hammer to ensure the seal ring is flush with the
face of the shoulder. Wipe off all excess sealant.
IMPORTANT: Always use the tool specified for
the axle. In order for the Stemco warranty to
apply, the product must be correctly installed
using the correct tool made by Stemco or a tool
approved by Stemco.
15. Make sure there aren’t any gaps between the
ring and shoulder. See Fig. 7.
16. Coat the inner wheel bearing with oil and install it 02/02/93 f330092
on the spindle ( Fig. 8). No additional lubrication
is needed on the outside of the seal. The seals Fig. 8
are lubed at the factory.
19. Adjust the wheel bearings. For instructions, refer
17. With the wheel mounted on a wheel dolly, align to the rear axle section in this manual.
the hub bore with the spindle ( Fig. 9), then push
the wheel onto the spindle until it just contacts 20. Install a new gasket on the drive axle studs.
the seal. Add oil until the level is even with the
inner bearing cup. Do not overfill; the seal is not
yet seated in the bore. See Fig. 10.
02/04/93 f330028
Fig. 9, Rear Axle

02/02/93 f330091
21. Install the drive axle shaft or, on non-drive axles,
Fig. 7
the hub cap. The splined end of the axle shaft
IMPORTANT: Do not force the wheel hub onto must seat before the drive axle flange will fit over
the seal. The wheel hub will seat on the seal the studs.
when the adjustment nut is tightened. 22. If equipped, install the dowels and washers on
the drive axle studs. Install the drive axle nuts.
18. Coat the outer bearing in oil and place it on the
Tighten the nuts to the torque values in the
spindle and into the bearing cup.

Seal Replacement
plug 40 to 60 lbf·ft (54 to 81 N·m); on Rockwell

axles, tighten the plug 35 lbf·ft (47 N·m).
Tilt the axle to the left and right, by jacking the
opposite side. Hold the tilted position for one
minute on each side, to allow oil to run into the
wheel end. Return the axle to a level position,
and add oil through the axle housing filler hole.
About two extra pints (1 L) of lubricant will be
needed, to bring the oil level even with the base
of the filler hole.
Fig. 10
23. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub.
WARNING
WARNING: If the inner wheel nuts cannot be
2
tightened to minimum torque values, the wheel
studs have lost their locking action, and the hub 3
flange is probably damaged. In this case, replace
it with a new wheel hub assembly. Failure to re-
place the wheel hub assembly when the condi- 06/07/94 f350002a
tions described above exist, could result in loss
1. Axle Housing Breather
of a wheel or loss of vehicle control, and pos- 2. Fill Hole Plug
sible personal injury. 3. Temperature Indicator Plug
24. Install the inner and outer wheel and tire assem- Fig. 11, Eaton Axle
blies. For instructions, refer to the wheels and
tires section in this manual. NOTE: Drive axle wheel bearings are lubricated
by oil drawn from the axle housing bowl section.
WARNING This method ensures good exchange of heat,
prevents stagnation, and minimizes the mainte-
WARNING: Failure to add oil to the axle housing nance required on bearings, and hub assem-
bowl or the wheel hub after the drive axle shaft blies.
and wheel hub have been serviced will damage
the wheel bearings and cause them to seize dur- 26. For non-drive axles, add about 1 to 1-1/2 pints
ing vehicle operation. Seized bearing rollers can (0.5 to 0.7 L) of oil to the level shown on the hub
cause sudden damage to the tire or axle, possi- cap. Do not overfill. Install the vent plug or
bly resulting in personal injury. threaded filler plug.
25. For drive axles, pour the recommended drive 27. Turn the wheels, and check the lubricant level.
axle lubricant through the axle housing filler hole 28. Adjust the rear axle brakes. For instructions, re-
( Fig. 11 or Fig. 12) until the lubricant is level fer to the rear axle section in the vehicle mainte-
with the bottom of the hole. See Fig. 13. Refer to nance manual.
Specifications, 400 for the recommended axle
lubricants. On Eaton axles, tighten the oil filler 29. Remove the safety stands from under the axle,

Seal Replacement
AXLE HOUSING BREATHERS
CARRIER FILLER INTERAXLE

08/05/93 HOLE PLUGS DIFFERENTIAL f350062
Fig. 12, Filler Hole Plug and Axle Housing Breather

Locations, Rockwell Axle
CORRECT
Lube level at bottom of filler hole.
INCORRECT
Lube level below filler hole.
06/30/93 f350061
Fig. 13
30. Apply the parking brakes, then remove the
chocks from the front tires.

Specifications
Lubricant SAE Viscosity

Lubricant Type Condition
Grade
Eaton® Roadranger® Over-the-Road Service 75W–90
Synthetic Drive Axle
Lubricants, or Equivalent
with Military Specification Off-Highway Equipment, or
80W–140
MIL–L–2105D Under Extra Heavy Loads
Table 1, Eaton Drive Axle Recommended Lubricant
Axle Type Axle Model Capacity *

pints (liters)
Single Reduction 23085S, 23085D 40 (18.9)
23105S, 23105D 48 (22.7)
23121 41 (19.4)
30105S 46 (21.8)
Double Reduction 35055P 36 (17.0)
* Quantities listed are approximate. Fill axle until lubricant is level with bottom of fill hole with vehicle on level
ground.
Table 2, Eaton Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Single-Drive Axles

Specifications
Axle Type Axle Model Capacity * Axle Type Axle Model Capacity *
pints (liters) pints (liters)
Single DS341 39 (18.5) † Dual Range DT401, 401–P 39 (18.5) †
Reduction (2-Speed)
RS341 36 (17) RT401 36 (17)
DS381, 381–P 39 (18.5) † DT402, 402–P 34 (16.1) †
RS381 36 (17) RT–402 34 (16.1)
DS401, 401–P 39 (18.5) † DT451, DT451–P 39 (18.5) †
RS401 36 (17) RT451 34 (16.1)
DS402, 402–P 39 (18.5) † DT461–P 43 (20.3) †
RS402 36 (17) RT461 40 (18.9)
DS404 39 (18.5) † Double DP451–P 34 (16.1) †
Reduction
RS404 36 (17) RP451 34 (16.1)
DS451, 451–P 39 (18.5) † DP461–P 43 (20.3) †
RS451 36 (17) RP461 40 (18.9)
DS460–P 44 (20.8) † DP521–P 42 (19.9) †
RS460 40 (18.9) RP521 39 (18.5)
DS461–P 43 (20.3) † DP601–P 42 (19.9) †
RS461 40 (18.9) RP601 39 (18.5)
DS581–P 42 (19.9) † DP651–P 41 (19.4) †
RS581 39 (18.5) RP651 37 (17.5)
* Quantities listed are approximate. Fill axle until lubricant is level with bottom of fill hole with vehicle on level ground.
† Add 2 pints (1 L) of additional lubricant to the power divider.
Table 3, Eaton Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Tandem-Drive Axles
Recommended Lubricant SAE Rockwell

Ambient Temperature
Lubricant Type Viscosity Grade Specification
+10°F (–12.2°C) and up * 85W–140 0–76–A
–15°F (–26.1°C) and up * 80W–140 0–76–B
Hypoid Gear Oil
–15°F (–26.1°C) and up * 80W–90 0–76–D
API Service –40°F (–40°C) and up * 75W–90 0–76–E
Classification GL–5
–40°F (–40°C) to +35°F (+2°C) 75W 0–76–J
–40°F (–40°C) and up * 75W–140 0–76–L
Synthetic Gear Oil –40°F (–40°C) and up * 75W–90 0–76–N
–40°F (–40°C) and up * 75W–140 0–76–M
Table 4, Rockwell Drive Axle Recommended Lubricant

Specifications

pints (liters)
Single Reduction RS–23–160 39.5 (18.7)
RS–23–161 37.2 (17.6)
RS–23–180 47.3 (22.4)
RS–26–180 46.6 (22.0)
RS–30–180 46.6 (22.0)
Double Reduction RS–26–380 58.2 (27.5)
RS–30–380 46.6 (22.0)
RS–38–380 58.2 (27.5)
ground.
Table 5, Rockwell Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Single-Drive Axles
Single Q–100 Forward 40.0 (18.9) Single SQ–100P Forward 42.0 (19.9 )
Reduction Reduction
Rear 37.0 (17.5) Rear 37.0 (17.5)
RT–40–140 Forward 30.2 (14.3) SQR–100 Forward 36.0 (17.0)
Rear 22.8 (10.8) Rear 33.0 (15.6)
RT–40–145 and –145P Forward 30.2 (14.3) SQR–100P Forward 38.0 (18.0)
Rear 25.8 (12.2) Rear 33.0 (15.6)
RT–44–145 and –145P Forward 29.3 (13.9) SR–170 Forward 55.0 (26.0)
Rear 25.1 (11.9) Rear 43.0 (23.3)
RT–46–160 and –160P Forward 39.1 (18.5) SSHD Forward 34.0 (16.0)
Rear 34.4 (16.3) Rear 28.0 (13.0)
RT–48–180 Forward 61.1 (28.9) Double RT–48–380 Forward 61.1 (28.9)
Reduction
Rear 38.8 (17.4) Rear 63.6 (30.1)
RT–52–160 and –160P Forward 44.1 (20.9) RT–52–380 Forward 56.1 (26.5)
Rear 41.2 (19.5) Rear 58.2 (27.5)
RT–52–180 Forward 56.1 (26.5) RT–58–380 Forward 56.1 (26.5)
Rear 41.2 (19.5) Rear 58.2 (27.5)
RT–58–180 Forward 56.1 (26.5 ) RT–70–380 Forward 54.4 (25.7)
Rear 36.1 (17.1) Rear 53.1 (25.1)
SQ–100A Forward 40.0 (18.9)
Rear 37.0 (17.5)
Table 6, Rockwell Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Tandem-Drive Axles

Specifications
Description Size (grade 8) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)

Spoke Wheel Brake Drum Nuts 3/4–10 240 (325)
1/2–13 70 (95)
Drive Axle Studs (to hub)
5/8–11 135 (185)
With Dowels 5/8–11 135 (185)
Drive Axle Stud Nuts
Without Dowels 5/8–18 130–140 (175–190)
Spoke Wheel Rim Studs 3/4–10 185–200 (250–325)

Rear Axle Oil Seal, Scotseal® 35.01
General Description
General Description
The Scotseal oil seal acts as a barrier between the
inside bore of the wheel hub and the axle spindle.
See Fig. 1. This stops dirt, moisture, or other con-
taminants from entering the inner cavity of the wheel
hub, and keeps oil in the hub to lubricate the wheel
bearings.
Each seal is installed in the wheel hub. When the
hub is installed onto the axle spindle, the inside di-
ameter of the seal will press-fit onto the spindle
shoulder. As the wheel turns, the seal wears within
itself and does not wear on the inside of the hub or
on the spindle shoulder.
DETAIL A OUTER SHELL
DIRT LIP
SEALING LIP
GARTER SPRING
RUBBER
SEALING
ELEMENT
SEE DETAIL A
AXLE SPINDLE
WHEEL
HUB BORE
NOTE: Trailer hub shown.
10/25/94 f330011
Fig. 1, Wheel Hub and Seal Assembly

Seal Replacement
Replacement nants can scratch the bearing roller surfaces,

1. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move- 9. Inspect the bearings and hub parts for wear or
ment. damage. Replace any worn or damaged parts as
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle until the tires clear needed.
the ground. Then, place safety stands under the
axle. CAUTION
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the rear CAUTION: Don’t spin bearing rollers at any time.
axle brake shoes. Dirt or grit can scratch the roller and cause rapid
4. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle. wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used bear-
For instructions, refer to the rear axle section in ings as carefully as new ones.
this manual. 10. Coat the inner wheel bearing with oil and install it
5. Remove the old oil seal from the hub or spindle. on the spindle.
6. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore, 11. Seat the small o.d. of the seal in the recess of
and the hub cavity. the tool adaptor. See Fig. 3. The correct adaptor
is identified on the box.
7. Remove all burrs from the shoulder and the seal
bore with an emery cloth or a file. See Fig. 1 12. Insert the centering plug of the tool in the bore of
and Fig. 2. the inner bearing. See Fig. 4. The plug prevents
cocking of the seal in the bore.
8. Clean any metal filings from the components.
13. Hold the tool handle firmly, and strike until the
sound of the impact changes as the seal bottoms
out. See Fig. 5. Hold the tool firmly to avoid
bounce or unseating of the seal from the adap-
tor.
06/30/93
f330021
Fig. 1
IMPORTANT: Clean the wheel hub cavity and NOTE: Typical application.
06/30/93 f330096
axle spindle. Dirt, metal filings, or other contami-
Fig. 2, Front Axle

35.01 Rear Axle Oil Seal, Scotseal®
Seal Replacement
20. Install the drive axle shaft or, on non-drive axles,

the hub cap. The splined end of the axle shaft
must seat before the drive axle flange will fit over
the studs.
Fig. 3
14. After the seal is bottomed in the bore, check for
freedom of movement by manually moving the 06/30/93
f330023
interior rubber part of the seal in and out. A slight
movement indicates a damage-free installation. Fig. 4
15. With the wheel mounted on a wheel dolly, align 21. If equipped, install the dowels and washers on
the hub bore with the spindle. Fill the wheel hub the drive axle studs. Install the drive axle nuts.
cavity with oil until the level is even with the in- Tighten the nuts to the torque values in the
ner bearing cup. torque table in Specifications, 400.
16. Center the hub on the spindle, then install the 22. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub.
wheel hub.
17. Coat the outer bearing in oil and place it on the WARNING
spindle and into the bearing cup.
18. Adjust the wheel bearings. For instructions, refer tightened to minimum torque values, the wheel
to the rear axle section in this manual. studs have lost their locking action, and the hub
flange is probably damaged. In this case, replace
19. Install a new gasket on the drive axle studs. it with a new wheel hub assembly. Failure to re-
place the wheel hub assembly when the condi-
tions described above exist, could result in loss

Seal Replacement
of a wheel or loss of vehicle control, and pos- cause sudden damage to the tire or axle, possi-
sible personal injury. bly resulting in personal injury.
23. Install the inner and outer wheel and tire assem- 24. For drive axles, pour the recommended drive
blies. For instructions, refer to the wheels and axle lubricant through the axle housing filler hole
tires section in this manual. ( Fig. 6 or Fig. 7) until the lubricant is level with
the bottom of the hole. See Fig. 8. Refer to
lubricants. On Eaton axles, tighten the oil filler
plug 40 to 60 lbf·ft (54 to 81 N·m); on Rockwell
opposite side. Hold the tilted position for one
About two extra pints (1 L) of lubricant will be
needed to bring the oil level even with the base
of the filler hole.
2
3
1. Axle Housing Breather 3. Temperature

2. Fill Hole Plug Indicator Plug
01/26/93 f350002
Fig. 6, Eaton Axle

NOTE: Drive axle wheel bearings are lubricated
Fig. 5 This method ensures good exchange of heat,
WARNING nance required on bearings and hub assem-
blies.
WARNING: Failure to add oil to the axle housing
bowl or the wheel hub after the drive axle shaft 25. For non-drive axles, add about 1 to 1-1/2 pints
and wheel hub have been serviced will damage (0.5 to 0.7 L) of oil to the level shown on the hub
the wheel bearings and cause them to seize dur- cap. Do not overfill. Install the vent plug or
ing vehicle operation. Seized bearing rollers can threaded filler plug.
26. Turn the wheels, and check the lubricant level.

Seal Replacement
AXLE HOUSING BREATHERS
CARRIER FILLER INTERAXLE

08/05/93 HOLE PLUGS DIFFERENTIAL f350062

CORRECT
Lube level at bottom of filler hole.
INCORRECT
Lube level below filler hole.
06/30/93 f350061
Fig. 8
27. Adjust the rear axle brakes. For instructions, re-
fer to the brake section in the vehicle mainte-
nance manual.
28. Remove the safety stands from under the axle,

Specifications

Grade
80W–140
MIL–L–2105D Under Extra Heavy Loads

pints (liters)
23105S, 23105D 48 (22.7)
23121 41 (19.4)
30105S 46 (21.8)
ground.

Specifications
Single DS341 39 (18.5) † Dual Range DT401, 401–P 39 (18.5) †
Reduction (2-Speed)
RS341 36 (17) RT401 36 (17)
DS381, 381–P 39 (18.5) † DT402, 402–P 34 (16.1) †
RS381 36 (17) RT–402 34 (16.1)
DS401, 401–P 39 (18.5) † DT451, DT451–P 39 (18.5) †
RS401 36 (17) RT451 34 (16.1)
DS402, 402–P 39 (18.5) † DT461–P 43 (20.3) †
RS402 36 (17) RT461 40 (18.9)
DS404 39 (18.5) † Double DP451–P 34 (16.1) †
Reduction
RS404 36 (17) RP451 34 (16.1)
DS451, 451–P 39 (18.5) † DP461–P 43 (20.3) †
RS451 36 (17) RP461 40 (18.9)
DS460–P 44 (20.8) † DP521–P 42 (19.9) †
RS460 40 (18.9) RP521 39 (18.5)
DS461–P 43 (20.3) † DP601–P 42 (19.9) †
RS461 40 (18.9) RP601 39 (18.5)
DS581–P 42 (19.9) † DP651–P 41 (19.4) †
RS581 39 (18.5) RP651 37 (17.5)
Recommended Lubricant SAE Rockwell

Ambient Temperature
Lubricant Type Viscosity Grade Specification
+10°F (–12.2°C) and up * 85W–140 0–76–A
–15°F (–26.1°C) and up * 80W–140 0–76–B
Hypoid Gear Oil
–15°F (–26.1°C) and up * 80W–90 0–76–D
API Service –40°F (–40°C) and up * 75W–90 0–76–E
Classification GL–5
–40°F (–40°C) to +35°F (+2°C) 75W 0–76–J
–40°F (–40°C) and up * 75W–140 0–76–L
Synthetic Gear Oil –40°F (–40°C) and up * 75W–90 0–76–N
–40°F (–40°C) and up * 75W–140 0–76–M
Table 4, Rockwell Drive Axle Recommended Lubricant

Specifications

pints (liters)
Single Reduction RS–23–160 39.5 (18.7)
RS–23–161 37.2 (17.6)
RS–23–180 47.3 (22.4)
RS–26–180 46.6 (22.0)
RS–30–180 46.6 (22.0)
Double Reduction RS–26–380 58.2 (27.5)
RS–30–380 46.6 (22.0)
RS–38–380 58.2 (27.5)
ground.
Table 5, Rockwell Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Single-Drive Axles
Single Q–100 Forward 40.0 (18.9) Single SQ–100P Forward 42.0 (19.9 )
Reduction Reduction
Rear 37.0 (17.5) Rear 37.0 (17.5)
RT–40–140 Forward 30.2 (14.3) SQR–100 Forward 36.0 (17.0)
Rear 22.8 (10.8) Rear 33.0 (15.6)
RT–40–145 and –145P Forward 30.2 (14.3) SQR–100P Forward 38.0 (18.0)
Rear 25.8 (12.2) Rear 33.0 (15.6)
RT–44–145 and –145P Forward 29.3 (13.9) SR–170 Forward 55.0 (26.0)
Rear 25.1 (11.9) Rear 43.0 (23.3)
RT–46–160 and –160P Forward 39.1 (18.5) SSHD Forward 34.0 (16.0)
Rear 34.4 (16.3) Rear 28.0 (13.0)
RT–48–180 Forward 61.1 (28.9) Double RT–48–380 Forward 61.1 (28.9)
Reduction
Rear 38.8 (17.4) Rear 63.6 (30.1)
RT–52–160 and –160P Forward 44.1 (20.9) RT–52–380 Forward 56.1 (26.5)
Rear 41.2 (19.5) Rear 58.2 (27.5)
RT–52–180 Forward 56.1 (26.5) RT–58–380 Forward 56.1 (26.5)
Rear 41.2 (19.5) Rear 58.2 (27.5)
RT–58–180 Forward 56.1 (26.5 ) RT–70–380 Forward 54.4 (25.7)
Rear 36.1 (17.1) Rear 53.1 (25.1)
SQ–100A Forward 40.0 (18.9)
Rear 37.0 (17.5)
Table 6, Rockwell Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Tandem-Drive Axles

Specifications

1/2–13 70 (95)
Drive Axle Studs (to hub)
5/8–11 135 (185)
With Dowels 5/8–11 135 (185)
Without Dowels 5/8–18 130–140 (175–190)

Rear Axle Wheel Hubs, Brake Drums, and Wheel
Bearings 35.02
General Information
General Information place on the axle spindle by an adjusting nut, lock-

ring, and jam nut, or a Pro-Torq® nut and lockring.
See Fig. 3.
The rear axle full-floating wheel hub assembly is
made up of five major components: inner and outer
tapered wheel bearings, the drive axle spindle as- DRIVE AXLE SPINDLE ASSEMBLY
sembly, the wheel hub, the brake drum, and the The drive axle spindle assembly is made up of a
wheel studs. See Fig. 1.
A B
1 13 12 14 19
2
3 15
4 11 16 18
5 10
5
9 9
6 8 8
7 6 17
06/28/95 f350117a
A. Spoke Wheel and Brake Drum Assembly B. Disc Wheel, Wheel Hub, and Brake Drum Assembly
1. Outer Rim 8. Brake Drum 14. Outer Wheel
2. Rim Stud 9. Inner Wheel Bearing 15. Outer Wheel Nut
3. Rim Stud Nut 10. Brake Drum Nut 16. Inner Wheel Nut
4. Rim Clamp 11. Brake Drum Bolt 17. Wheel Hub
5. Drive Axle Stud 12. Inner Rim 18. Wheel Stud
6. Outer Wheel Bearing 13. Rim Spacer 19. Inner Wheel
7. Spoke Wheel
Fig. 1
TAPERED WHEEL BEARINGS drive axle flange and shaft, drive axle studs and stud
nuts, a flange gasket, an axle spindle, an oil seal,
A typical tapered wheel bearing assembly consists of and the locking assembly described above (
a cone, tapered rollers, a roller cage, and a separate see Fig. 4, Refs. 3 through 10, 13).
cup that is press-fit in the hub. See Fig. 2. All com-
ponents carry the load, with the exception of the The surfaces of the spindle and the nut threads are
cage, which spaces the rollers around the cone. machined. When these surfaces become damaged,
repairs are necessary. There are standard methods
Each hub has a set of inner and outer tapered wheel for performing those repairs that preserve the proper
bearing assemblies. The bearing setting is locked in

35.02 Bearings
General Information
1
CAUTION
CAUTION: The National Highway Traffic Safety
2 Administration (NHTSA) has warned against re-
pairs that involve cutting off a portion of a dam-
aged spindle and welding on a replacement part.
The heat of welding can reduce the strength of
spindles made with heat-treated materials and
lead to spindle failure. After the cutting and weld-
ing operations, the replacement part may not be
correctly aligned on the spindle. This can cause
damage to the spindle nut.
3
WHEEL HUB
4 The inner disc wheel and/or brake drum is mounted
on an aluminum or iron wheel hub ( Fig. 4, Ref. 20).
03/22/94 f350056a
Both the inner and outer bearing cups and certain
1. Cup 3. Cone types of wheel studs are press-fit in the hub. The
2. Tapered Roller 4. Roller Cage hub is also the interconnecting point for the drive
Fig. 2, Tapered Wheel Bearing Assembly axle shaft and wheels.
Each spoke wheel ( Fig. 4, Ref. 16) combines both
wheel and hub into a single unit.
1
BRAKE DRUM
The brake drum and lining work together as a mated
2 friction pair, with the drum responsible for both heat
absorption and dissipation. Lining performance and
3
life largely depend on the condition of the drum and
whether it can adequately absorb and dissipate heat
generated by braking action.
On spoke wheel assemblies, the brake drum is
mounted inboard, behind the hub flange, and is held
in place with bolts. On all other hub and drum as-
5 semblies, the brake drum is mounted on the out-
4 board face of the hub and fits over the wheel studs.
See Fig. 4.
02/22/94 f350028a
1. Inner Wheel Bearing 4. Axle Spindle Jam WHEEL STUDS

2. Wheel Bearing Inner Nut
Adjusting Nut 5. Outer Wheel Bearing
A headed wheel stud ( Fig. 5) is used on rear axle
3. Lockring disc wheel hub assemblies and has either serrations
on the stud body or a flat area on the stud’s head to
Fig. 3, Drive Axle Bearings and Spindle Assembly prevent the stud from turning in the wheel hub.
alignment of the axle spindle assembly. Refer to the The end of the stud that faces away from the vehicle
axle manufacturer for instructions. is stamped with an "L" or "R," depending on which
side of the vehicle the stud is installed. Studs
stamped with an "L" are left-hand threaded and are
installed on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Studs

Bearings 35.02
General Information
1 2 3 4
15 16 17
18
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13
14
12
19 17 20
12
13 21
15
B
06/26/95 f350063a
A. Spoke Wheel and Drum Assembly B. Disc Wheel, Hub, and Drum Assembly
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 9. Lockring 15. Brake Drum Nut
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 10. Wheel Bearing Inner Adjusting 16. Spoke Wheel
3. Oil Seal Nut 17. Brake Drum
4. Axle Spindle 11. Outer Wheel Bearing 18. Brake Drum Bolt
5. Drive Axle Stud Nut 12. Outer Wheel Bearing Cup 19. Hub Spacer
6. Drive Axle Flange and Shaft 13. Drive Axle Stud 20. Wheel Hub
7. Gasket 14. Rim Stud 21. Wheel Stud
8. Jam Nut
Fig. 4, Typical Drive Axle (exploded view)

stamped with an "R" are right-hand threaded and are
installed on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
Spoke wheels have rim studs. Rim studs are
threaded on both ends, with a nonthreaded section
midway along the shaft of the stud. The studs are
coated with an anaerobic locking compound.

35.02 Bearings
General Information
2
02/22/94 f350055a
1. Serrations 2. Clipped Head
Fig. 5, Typical Headed Wheel Studs

Bearings 35.02
Installation
using an industrial-type vacuum cleaner

WARNING equipped with a high-efficiency filter system.
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or
until nearly dry, remove any remaining dust.
drums, always replace components as an axle
set.
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at
7. Inspect the drum. Refer to Subject 110 for in-
the same time.
structions.
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at
the same time.
Installation
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single 1. On brake drum assemblies with an aluminum
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle, hub, coat the hub and drum contact surfaces
at the same time. Do not mix component with Alumilastic® compound or an equivalent.
types.
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and CAUTION
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam-
age, personal injury, or death. CAUTION: With hub-piloted drums, make sure the
brake drum is positioned on the raised step of
For an exploded view of a typical wheel and axle as- the pilot pad. One of the hub’s pilot pads should
sembly, including the brake drum, see Fig. 1. be at the twelve o’clock position. If the drum is
not positioned correctly when the wheel nuts are
Removal torqued, the pilot pad could be damaged.
See Fig. 2. If necessary, adjust the brakes before
1. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move- installing the wheels to hold the drum in position.
ment. Release the parking brakes. With the drum in position, be sure the pilot pads
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle until the tires clear securely center the drum. If the pads have been
the ground. Then place safety stands under the damaged so they won’t center the drum, replace
axle. the hub.
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the rear 2. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub.
axle brake shoes. 3. Install the inner and outer wheel and tire assem-
4. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies. Refer blies. Refer to the wheels and tires section in this
to the wheels and tires section in this manual for manual for instructions.
instructions.
5. Remove the brake drum. WARNING
WARNING tightened to minimum torque values, the wheel
studs have lost their locking action, and the hub
WARNING: Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos flange is probably damaged. In this case, replace
or non-asbestos) could cause lung cancer or it with a new wheel hub assembly. Failure to re-
lung disease. OSHA has set maximum levels of place the wheel hub assembly when the condi-
exposure and requires workers to wear an air pu- tions described above exist, could result in the
rifying respirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. loss of a wheel or loss of vehicle control, and
Wear a respirator at all times when servicing the possible personal injury or property damage.
brakes, starting with removal of the wheels and
continuing through assembly. 4. Adjust the rear axle brakes; refer to the brake
6. To minimize the possibility of creating airborne
brake lining dust, clean the dust from the brake 5. Remove the safety stands from under the axle;
drum, brake backing plate, and brake assembly, lower the vehicle.

35.02 Bearings
Installation
6. Apply the parking brakes; then remove the

1 2 3 4
15 16 17
18
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13
14
12
19 17 20
12
13 21
15
B
06/26/95 f350063a
A. Spoke Wheel and Drum Assembly B. Disc Wheel Hub and Drum Assembly
8. Jam Nut

Bearings 35.02
Installation
05/06/94 f350080a
A. Pilot pad at the 12 o’clock position.
Fig. 2, Hub Pilot Pads

Bearings 35.02
Wheels
Removal CAUTION
See Fig. 1 for this procedure. When tapping the drive axle flange, avoid striking
1. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move- the drive axle studs. If struck, the studs may
ment. Release the parking brakes. bend or break, or the stud threads can be dam-
aged. Replace damaged studs.
the ground. Place safety stands under the axle. NOTE: Even if the drive axle shaft doesn’t
spring outward, the seal may have loosened
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the rear enough to allow the shaft to be pulled from the
axle brake shoes. For instructions, see the appli-
cable slack adjuster section in Group 42.
axle housing. If the seal has not broken, repeat
the step above.
4. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies. For in-
structions, see Group 40. 9. If so equipped, remove the tapered dowels and
washers from the drive axle flange.
WARNING 10. Remove and discard the gasket.
11. Remove the axle spindle jam nut and the lock-
ring or tanged nut-lock, as equipped. See Fig. 3
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis-
or Fig. 4. If the axle is equipped with a lockring
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure
and a tanged nut-lock, remove both. See Fig. 5.
If the axle is equipped with a Pro-Torq® nut, re-
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res- move the lockring. See Fig. 6.
starting with removal of the wheels and continu- 12. Back off the wheel bearing inner adjusting nut or
ing through assembly. Pro-Torq nut about two turns, or enough to allow
the weight of the hub to be lifted from the wheel
5. To minimize the possibility of creating airborne bearings.
brake lining dust, clean the dust from the brake
drum, brake backing plate, and brake assembly, 13. Lift the hub until all weight is removed from the
using an industrial-type vacuum cleaner wheel bearings; remove the wheel bearing inner
equipped with a high-efficiency filter system. adjusting nut, or Pro-Torq nut.
until nearly dry, remove any remaining dust. CAUTION
clean the brake assembly. Be careful not to let the outer wheel bearing drop
from the axle spindle. Dropping the bearing can
6. Remove the brake drum.
warp the cage or damage the rollers, ruining the
NOTE: Oil will spill as the drive axle shaft (or bearing. On vehicles equipped with WABCO ABS,
hub cap) and the wheel hub are removed. Place use care when working with the hubs. To prevent
a suitable container under the drive axle flange damage to the tone wheel, do not drop the hub,
or hub cap to catch any spilled oil. Dispose of or lay it down in a way that would damage the
the oil properly. tone wheel.
7. Remove the drive axle stud nuts and washers. 14. Move the hub about 1/2 inch (13 mm) to jar
See Fig. 2. loose the outer wheel bearing (allow the hub-only
assembly to rest on the axle spindle; be careful
8. Using a hammer and a soft drift, such as one not to damage the axle spindle threads).
made of brass, sharply tap the center portion of
the drive axle flange. See Fig. 2. The shaft will 15. Carefully remove the outer wheel bearing; handle
usually spring slightly outward after the seal has the bearings with clean, dry hands. Wrap the
broken. Remove the drive axle shaft. bearings in either clean oil-proof paper or lint-
free rags.

35.02 Bearings
Wheels
1 2 3 4
15 16 17
18
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13
14
12
19 17 20
12
13 21
15
B
06/26/95 f350063a
8. Jam Nut
17. Remove the inner wheel bearing from the axle.

CAUTION Handle the bearings with clean, dry hands, then
wrap the bearings in either clean oil-proof paper
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or or lint-free rags. Occasionally, the inner wheel
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause bearing will remain in the hub after the hub is
rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used removed from the axle. In those cases, place a
bearings as carefully as new ones. protective cushion where it will catch the bear-
16. Remove the hub. Be careful not to damage the ings. Then use a hardwood drift and a light ham-
axle spindle threads as the assembly is re- mer to gently tap the bearing (and seal, if neces-
moved. sary) out of the cup.

Bearings 35.02
Wheels
3
1
2
2
4
06/07/94 5 f350060a
10/09/2007 f350011a 1. Axle Spindle 4. Pierced Lockring
1. Center Portion of Drive Axle Flange 2. Adjusting Nut 5. Jam Nut
2. Drive Axle Studs and Nuts 3. Dowel
3. Inner Wheel Nut
4. Outer Wheel Nut Fig. 4, Axle Secured With a Lockring
Fig. 2, Wheel Assembly and Hub

3
1
2
1
3
2
4
4
08/08/94
6
f350128
1. Axle Spindle 4. Pierced Lockring
06/07/94 f350059a 2. Adjusting Nut 5. Nut-Lock
1. Axle Spindle 3. Nut-Lock 3. Dowel 6. Jam Nut
2. Adjusting Nut 4. Jam Nut
Fig. 5, Axle Secured With a Lockring and a Nut-Lock
Fig. 3, Axle Secured With a Nut-Lock
Installation
18. Remove the oil seal from the axle spindle, if not
already removed. See the applicable oil seal sec-
tion in this group for additional information. WARNING
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure

35.02 Bearings
Wheels
1 CAUTION
2 Use only fresh oil on the bearing assemblies; old
oil could be contaminated with dirt or water (both
are corrosives) and could cause damage to both
3 wheel bearing assemblies and the wheel hub.
4
bearing.
5 CAUTION
6 On vehicles equipped with WABCO ABS, use
7 care when installing the hubs. To prevent dam-
06/07/94 f330030a age to the tone wheel, do not drop the hub or lay
it down in a way that would damage the tone
1. Axle Spindle 5. Keyway Tabs
2. Pro-Torq Nut 6. Keeper Arms
wheel.
3. Keeper Tab 7. Keeper Projections 5. Carefully mount the hub and inner wheel bearing
4. Lockring assembly on the axle spindle. Be careful not to
unseat the inner wheel bearing or seal.
Fig. 6, Axle With Pro-Torq Nut and Lockring
6. Fill the hub cavity with oil, and install the outer
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res- wheel bearing; handle the bearings with clean,
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes, dry hands. Use care not to damage the bearings
starting with removal of the wheels and continu- as they are seated in the bearing cups. Then
ing through assembly. remove the friction tape from the axle spindle
threads.
1. Using cleaning solvent, remove the old oil from
the axle spindle and the disassembled parts. NOTE: If the axle is equipped with Pro-Torq
Allow the parts to dry, or dry them with a clean, nuts (see Fig. 6), skip the next four steps, and
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper. Wrap a go to the step for installing the Pro-Torq nuts.
protective layer of friction tape on the axle
spindle threads. 7. If the axle is equipped with adjusting nuts and
jam nuts (see Fig. 3 for axles secured with a
nut-lock, Fig. 4 for axles secured with a lockring,
WARNING or Fig. 5 for axles secured with both a nut-lock
Commercial cleaning solvents are toxic, can and a lockring), install the wheel bearing adjust-
cause severe skin irritation, and may be fire haz- ing nut.
ards. When using solvents, follow the safety pre- 7.1 After the wheel hub and bearings are as-
cautions recommended by the solvent manufac- sembled on the spindle, tighten the inner
turer. adjusting nut finger-tight.
2. On brake drum assemblies with an aluminum IMPORTANT: Be sure there is sufficient
hub, coat the hub and drum contact surfaces clearance between the brake shoe and the
with Alumilastic compound or an equivalent. brake drum, so brake shoe drag will not in-
3. Coat both bearing assemblies with fresh oil. In- terfere with bearing adjustment.
stall the inner wheel bearing and oil seal. Handle
the bearings with clean, dry hands. Refer to the 7.2 While rotating the wheel hub assembly,
applicable section for oil seal installation instruc- tighten the inner adjusting nut 100 lbf·ft
tions. For lubricant specifications, see Specifica- (136 N·m).
tions, 400. 7.3 Back off the adjusting nut completely.

Bearings 35.02
Wheels
7.4 Tighten the adjusting nut 20 lbf·ft (27 N·m) You cannot accurately adjust or measure
while rotating the wheel hub assembly. bearing end play with the wheel mounted on
7.5 Back off the adjusting nut one-third turn. the hub.
NOTE: If you’re securing the wheel bearings 9.1 Attach a dial indicator to the hub and set
with a pierced lockring and no hole in the the point of the indicator in line with the
end of the axle spindle.
ing nut, remove the lockring, turn it over and If using aluminum hubs, you may have to
install it again. If a hole still doesn’t align install the brake drum on the hub to pro-
with the dowel, loosen the adjusting nut, but vide a steel base for the magnet of the
only enough to align the dowel with a hole in dial indicator. Mount the drum on the
the lockring. hub’s drum pilot, then adjust the brake or
have someone apply the brakes to hold
8. Install the locking device and jam nut. the drum securely while you secure the
8.1 Install the locking device. drum using the stud at the 12 o’clock posi-
tion, then the studs at about the 4 o’clock
NOTE: The locking device can be any one and 8 o’clock positions.
of the following types: NOTE: If using a stud-piloted hub and a
• Tanged nut-lock steel drum, install 1–1/4 inch washers be-
• Lockring tween the nuts and the drum.
• Lockwasher and lockring 9.2 Release the brakes if you used them to
hold the drum while installing it.
• Nut-lock and lockring
9.3 Grip the sides of the hub at the three
8.2 Install the jam nut, and tighten it to the o’clock and nine o’clock positions. Push in
applicable torque in Table 1. on the hub (and drum, if applicable), to
9. With the jam nut installed and tightened, adjust seat the inboard bearing set. Zero the dial
the bearings. indicator.
IMPORTANT: Do not adjust the wheel bear-
ings with the wheel mounted on the hub.

Adjusting Nut —
Target: 175 (235)
1-1/8
2-5/8 or Target: 325 (440)


35.02 Bearings
Wheels
9.4 Once more, grip the sides of the hub at

the three o’clock and nine o’clock posi- A
tions. This time, pull out on the hub (and
drum, if applicable). Read the dial indica- 1
tor, and note the end play.
9.5 Push the hub back in to confirm that the
needle of the dial indicator returns to zero. 2
10. The end play must be between 0.001 and 0.005

inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If the end play is not
within this range, adjust the end play.
10.1 Remove the jam nut and locking device,
and back off or tighten the inner adjusting
nut.
3
IMPORTANT: If you’re using a nut-lock, turn- 06/07/94 f350015a
ing the adjusting nut 1/4 turn will change the A. Bend only each tang that is at a right angle to a flat.
end play about 0.014 inch (0.36 mm). 1. Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut
If you’re using a lockring, turning the adjust- 2. Wheel Bearing Jam Nut
3. Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut-Lock
ing nut one lockring hole will change the end
play about 0.005 inch (0.13 mm). If you take Fig. 7, Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut-Lock Installation
the lockring off and reverse it, then turn the
adjusting nut to the next hole, this will 11.4 Tighten the nut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) while
change the end play about 0.0025 inch spinning the wheel in both directions.
(0.064 mm). Back off the nut one-eighth to one-sixth
turn.
10.2 Install the locking device and jam nut as
described earlier, and measure the end 11.5 Hold the lockring with the keeper projec-
play. If the end play is not between 0.001 tions facing outboard. See Fig. 8.
and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm), turn
the inner adjusting nut again.
10.3 Once the end play is correct, bend the
nut-lock (see Fig. 7) or lockwasher, as
applicable, to lock the jam nut and/or ad-
justing nut in place.
11. If equipped with Pro-Torq nuts, adjust the axle
wheel bearings as follows (Fig. 6):
11.1 Install the Pro-Torq nut, and turn it against
brake drum, so brake shoe drag won’t inter- 06/07/94 f350003a
Fig. 8, Lockring Position
(122 to 149 N·m) while spinning the wheel 11.6 Insert the keeper tab in the undercut
in both directions. groove of the Pro-Torq nut, while pressing
the keyway tabs on the flat surface of the

Bearings 35.02
Wheels
11.7 Insert a screwdriver, or similar tool, in the 13. Install the drive axle shaft or, on non-drive axles,
undercut groove of the nut, between the the hub cap. The splined end of the axle shaft
keeper arms. Compress the lockring with must seat before the drive axle flange will fit over
the tool to lock in place. See Fig. 9. the studs.
14. If equipped, install the dowels and washers on
the drive axle studs. Install the drive axle stud
nuts. Using the sequence shown in Fig. 11,
tighten the nuts to the torque values given in the
6 7
4 3
06/07/94 f350004a
Fig. 9, Compress the Lockring

8 5
CAUTION
2
06/07/94 f330111
keeper projections to compress the lockring. This
could result in damage to or breakage of the Fig. 11, Tightening Sequence, Drive Axle Stud Nuts
lockring.
15. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub. For in-
11.8 Using the screwdriver, press around the structions, see Subject 075.
WARNING
If the inner wheel nuts cannot be tightened to
minimum torque values, the wheel studs have
lost their locking action, and the hub flange is
probably damaged. In this case, replace it with a
new wheel hub assembly. Failure to replace the
wheel hub assembly when the conditions de-
scribed above exist, could result in loss of a
wheel or loss of vehicle control, and possible
personal injury.
16. Install the inner and outer wheel and tire assem-
blies. For instructions, see Group 40.
06/14/94 f350005a
WARNING
Failure to add oil to the axle housing bowl or the
Fig. 10, Make Sure the Lockring is Locked
wheel hub after the drive axle shaft and wheel
12. Install a new gasket on the drive axle studs. hub have been serviced will damage the wheel
bearings and cause them to seize during vehicle

35.02 Bearings
Wheels
operation. Seized bearing rollers can cause sud- 1

den damage to the tire or axle, possibly resulting
in personal injury.
17. For drive axles, pour the recommended drive
axle lubricant through the axle housing filler hole
(see Fig. 12 or Fig. 13) until the lubricant is level
with the bottom of the hole. See Fig. 14. See
lubricants. On Eaton axles, tighten the oil filler
plug 40 to 60 lbf·ft (54 to 81 N·m); on Meritor
1 2 3
06/07/94 f350062a
1. Axle Housing Breathers

2. Carrier Filler Plugs
3. Interaxle Differential
Fig. 13, Carrier Filler Holes, Meritor Axle
2
3
A
06/07/94 f350002a
1. Axle Housing Breather

2. Oil Filler Plug
3. Temperature Indicator Plug B
Fig. 12, Eaton Axle Fill Plug

06/07/94 f350061a
18. Tilt the axle to the left and right, by jacking the
A. Correct: Lube level at the bottom of the fill hole.
opposite side. Hold the tilted position for one B. Incorrect: Lube level is below the fill hole.
wheel end. Return the axle to a level position, Fig. 14, Lubricant Level Checking
About two extra pints (1 liter) of lubricant will be hub cap. Do not overfill. Install the vent plug or
needed, to bring the oil level even with the base threaded filler plug.
of the filler hole.
20. Turn the wheels and check the lubricant level.
NOTE: Drive axle wheel bearings are lubricated
21. Adjust the rear axle brakes. For instructions, see
by oil drawn from the axle housing bowl section. Group 42 in the Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance
This method ensures good exchange of heat, Manual.
nance required on bearings and hub assem- 22. Remove the safety stands from under the axle,
and lower the vehicle.
blies.
23. Apply the parking brakes and remove the chocks
19. For non-drive axles, add about 1 to 1-1/2 pints
from the front tires.
(0.5 to 0.7 liters) of oil to the level shown on the

Bearings 35.02
Wheels
1 2 3 4
15 16 17
18
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13
14
12
19 17 20
12
13 21
15
B
06/26/95 f350063a
8. Jam Nut
Spoke wheel assemblies do not need to be com- 1. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move-
pletely disassembled for brake component mainte- ment. Release the parking brakes.
nance. The tires and rims can remain attached to the
wheel, and the wheel to the brake drum. The assem-
the ground. Then place safety stands under the
bly is then removed from the axle as a single unit to
expose brake components. Refer to Group 42 for axle to be serviced. Position a jack or wheel-and-
tire dolly under the tires.
brake assembly service information.

35.02 Bearings
Wheels
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the rear axle housing. If the seal has not broken, repeat
axle brake shoes. the above step.
4. Remove both rim and tire assemblies. Refer to 7. If so equipped, remove the tapered dowels and
the wheels and tires section in this manual for washers from the drive axle flange.
instructions.
8. Remove and discard the gasket.
5. Remove the drive axle flange nuts ( Fig. 2 ) and
washers. 9. Remove both the axle spindle jam nut and the
lockring or nut-lock. See Fig. 3 or Fig. 4. If
equipped with a lockring and a nut-lock, remove
both. See Fig. 5. If equipped with a Pro-Torq®
nut, remove the lockring. See Fig. 6. Then, back
off the wheel bearing inner adjusting nut or Pro-
Torq nut about two turns, or enough to allow the
weight of the wheel and drum assembly to be
lifted from the wheel bearings.
1
1
2 4
06/09/94 f400090b
1. Drive Axle Studs and 2. Center Portion of
Nuts Drive Axle Flange
Fig. 2
NOTE: Oil will spill as the drive axle shaft and 06/07/94 f350059a
wheel are removed. Place a suitable container 1. Axle Spindle 3. Nut-Lock
under the wheel to catch any spilled oil. Discard 2. Adjusting Nut 4. Jam Nut
the oil.
Fig. 3, Axle Secured With a Nut-Lock
6. Using a hammer and a soft drift, such as one
made of brass, sharply tap the center portion of 10. Using the wheel dolly or jack, raise the wheel
the drive axle flange. See Fig. 2. The shaft will and drum assembly until all weight is removed
usually spring slightly outward after the seal has from the bearings. Then remove the wheel bear-
broken. Then remove the drive axle shaft. ing inner adjusting nut, or Pro-Torq nut.
11. Carefully remove the outer wheel bearing; handle
CAUTION the bearings with clean, dry hands. If the wheel
bearings have not loosened from the cup, move
When tapping the drive axle flange, avoid striking the wheel assembly about 1/2 inch (13 mm) to
the drive axle studs. If struck, the studs may jar loose the outer wheel bearing. Be careful to
bend or break, or the stud threads can be dam- not drop the bearings. Wrap the bearings in
aged. Replace damaged studs. clean oil-proof paper or lint-free rags.
NOTE: Even if the drive axle shaft doesn’t
spring outward, the seal may have loosened
enough to allow the shaft to be pulled from the

Bearings 35.02
Wheels
3 2
3
4
1
2
5
4
6
7
06/07/94 5 f350060a 06/07/94 f330030a
1. Axle Spindle 4. Pierced Lockring 1. Axle Spindle 5. Keyway Tabs
2. Adjusting Nut 5. Jam Nut 2. Pro-Torque Nut 6. Keeper Arms
3. Pin 3. Keeper Tab 7. Keeper Projections
4. Lockring
Fig. 4, Axle Secured With a Lockring
Fig. 6, Axle With Pro-Torq Nut and Lockring
damage the axle spindle threads as the assem-

3 bly is removed.
13. Remove the brake drum nuts (see Fig. 1) and
detach the brake drum from the wheel.
1 WARNING
WARNING: Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos
2 or non-asbestos) could cause lung cancer or
4 lung disease. OSHA has set maximum levels of
exposure and requires workers to wear an air pu-
5 rifying respirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH.
Wear a respirator at all times when servicing the
08/08/94
6
f350128
brakes, starting with removal of the wheels and
continuing through assembly.
1. Axle Spindle 4. Pierced Lockring
2. Adjusting Nut 5. Nut-Lock To minimize the possibility of creating airborne
3. Pin 6. Jam Nut brake lining dust, clean the dust from the brake
drum, brake backing plate, and brake assembly,
Fig. 5, Axle Secured With a Lockring and a Nut-Lock using an industrial-type vacuum cleaner
equipped with a high-efficiency filter system.
CAUTION Then, using a rag soaked in water and wrung un-
til nearly dry, remove any remaining dust. Don’t
CAUTION: Do not spin bearing rollers at any use compressed air or dry brushing to clean the
time. Dirt or grit can scratch the roller surface brake assembly.
Treat used bearings as carefully as new ones. 14. Remove the inner wheel bearing from the axle.
Handle the bearings with clean, dry hands, then
12. Using the wheeled support, pull the wheel as- wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper or lint-
sembly away from the vehicle. Be careful not to free rags. Occasionally, the inner wheel bearing

35.02 Bearings
Wheels
will remain in the wheel after the wheel is re- 8. If the axle is equipped with Pro-Torq nuts (
moved from the axle. In those cases, place a Fig. 6), skip the next three steps, and go to the
protective cushion where it will catch the bearing. step for installing the Pro-Torq nuts.
Then use a hardwood drift and a light hammer to
If the axle is equipped with adjusting nuts and
gently tap the bearing (and seal, if necessary)
jam nuts, adjust the wheel bearings as follows (
out of the cup.
see Fig. 3, Fig. 4 or Fig. 5):
15. Remove the oil seal, if not already removed. Re-
fer to the applicable oil seal section in this group. IMPORTANT: Be sure there is enough clear-
brake drum, so brake shoe drag will not in-
Installation (See Fig. 1) terfere with bearing adjustment.
8.1 After the wheel hub and bearings are as-
WARNING sembled on the spindle, tighten the inner
(adjusting) nut 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m) while
rotating the wheel hub assembly.
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure 8.2 Back off the inner nut one full turn.
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res- 8.3 Tighten the inner nut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m)
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes, while rotating the wheel hub assembly
starting with removal of the wheels and continu- 8.4 Back off the inner nut one quarter turn.
NOTE: If you’re securing the wheel bearings
1. Remove the old oil from the axle spindle and with a pierced lockring, and no hole in the
also the disassembled parts. Inspect and clean lockring aligns with the dowel on the adjust-
the wheel hub cavity and the wheel bearings, as ing nut, remove the lockring, turn it over and
instructed in Subject 110. install it, again. If a hole still doesn’t align
2. Wrap a protective layer of friction tape on the with the dowel, loosen the adjusting nut, but
axle spindle threads. only enough to align the dowel with a hole in
the lockring.
3. If it was removed, attach the brake drum to the
wheel. Install the brake drum bolts and nuts, 8.5 Install the locking device:
then tighten the nuts to the torque values in the
• Tanged nut-lock
• Lockring
stall the inner wheel bearing and oil seal. Handle • Lockwasher and a lockring
the bearings with clean, dry hands. For oil seal
installation instructions, refer to the applicable • Nut-lock and a lockring
section in this group. Then install the jam nut, and tighten it to
5. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre- the applicable torque in Table 1.
bearing. Torque
lbf·ft (N·m)
6. Using a wheeled support, mount the wheel and Locking Device 2-5/8 Inch or
drum assembly on the axle spindle; be careful 1-1/8 to 2-1/2
Larger Jam
not to unseat the bearings or seal. Inch Jam Nuts
Nuts
7. Fill the hub cavity with oil, and install the outer Tanged Nut-Lock 200 to 300
dry hands. Then remove the friction tape from Lockring (271 to 407)
the axle spindle threads.

Bearings 35.02
Wheels
Torque tighten the inner (adjusting) nut to adjust the end

lbf·ft (N·m) play. Keep the following in mind:
Locking Device 2-5/8 Inch or If you’re using a nut-lock: turning the inner nut
1-1/8 to 2-1/2
Inch Jam Nuts
Larger Jam 1/4 turn will change the end play about 0.020
Nuts inch (0.508 mm).
Tanged Nut-Lock and If you’re using a lockring: turning the inner nut
Lockring 200 to 300 250 to 400
one lockring hole will change the end play about
Lockwasher and (271 to 407) (339 to 542) 0.005 inch (0.127 mm). If you take the lockring
Lockring off and reverse it, then turn the inner nut to the
Table 1, Jam Nut Torques next hole, this will change the end play about
0.0025 inch (0.0635 mm).
8.6 With the jam nut installed and tightened, Install the locking device and jam nut as de-
attach a dial indicator to the hub and set scribed earlier, and measure the end play. If the
the point of the indicator in line with the end play is not between 0.001 and 0.005 inch
end of the axle spindle. (0.025 and 0.127 mm), adjust the inner (adjust-
ing) nut, again.
If using aluminum hubs, you may have to
install the brake drum on the hub to pro- 10. Once the end play is correct, bend the nut-lock (
vide a steel base for the magnet of the see Fig. 7) or lockwasher as applicable to lock
dial indicator. Mount the drum on the the jam nut and/or adjusting nut in place.
hub’s drum pilot, then adjust the brake or
have someone apply the brakes to hold
the drum securely while you secure the A
drum using the stud at the 12 o’clock posi-
tion, then the studs at about the 4 o’clock 1
and 8 o’clock positions.
NOTE: If using a stud-piloted hub and a 2
steel drum, install 1–1/4 inch washers be-
tween the nuts and the drum.
8.7 Release the brakes if you used them to
hold the drum while installing it.
Grip the sides of the hub at the three
o’clock and nine o’clock positions, then
push the hub (and drum, if applicable), to 3
06/07/94 f350015a
seat the inboard bearing set. Zero the dial
indicator. A. Bend only each tang that is at a right angle to a
flat.
Grip the sides of the hub at the three 1. Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut
o’clock and nine o’clock positions, then 2. Wheel Bearing Jam Nut
pull the hub (and drum, if applicable). 3. Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut-Lock
Read the dial indicator, and note the end
play. Fig. 7, Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut-Lock Installation
Push the hub back in to confirm that the 11. If equipped with Pro-Torq nuts, adjust Eaton and
needle of the dial indicator returns to zero. Rockwell axle wheel bearings as follows (see
Fig. 6):
The end play must be between 0.001 and
0.005 inch (0.025 and 0.127 mm). 11.1 Install the Pro-Torq nut, and turn it against
9. If the end play is not within this range, remove
the jam nut and locking device, and back off or

35.02 Bearings
Wheels

(122 to 149 N·m) while spinning the wheel
in both directions.
Back off the nut one-eighth to one-sixth
turn. 06/07/94 f350004a
11.5 Hold the lockring with the keeper projec- Fig. 9, Compress the Lockring, Disc Wheel Shown
11.8 Using the screwdriver, press around the
06/07/94 f350003a
Fig. 8, Lockring Position, Disc Wheel Shown

06/14/94 f350005a
groove of the Pro-Torq nut, while pressing Fig. 10, Make Sure the Lockring is Locked, Disc Wheel
the keyway tabs on the flat surface of the Shown
12. Install a new gasket on the drive axle studs.
11.7 Insert a screwdriver, or similar tool, in the
undercut groove of the nut, between the 13. Install the drive axle shaft or, on non-drive axles,
keeper arms. Compress the lockring with the hub cap. The splined end of the axle shaft
the tool to lock in place. See Fig. 9. must seat before the drive axle flange will fit over
the studs.
CAUTION 14. If equipped, install the dowels and washers on
the drive axle studs. Install the drive axle nuts.
CAUTION: Do not use pliers or similar devices on Using the sequence shown in Fig. 11, tighten the
the keeper projections to compress the lockring. nuts to the torque values in the torque table in
This could result in damage or breakage of the Specifications, 400.
lockring.

Bearings 35.02
Wheels
lbf·ft (54 to 81 N·m); on Rockwell axles, tighten

the plug 35 lbf·ft (47 N·m).
1
6 7 opposite side. Hold the tilted position for one
4 3 About two extra pints (1 L) of lubricant will be
needed, to bring the oil level even with the base
of the filler hole.
8 5
2 1
06/07/94 f330111
Fig. 11, Axle Shaft Flange Nut-Tightening Sequence
15. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub. For in-
WARNING 2
3
WARNING: If the inner rim nuts cannot be tight-
ened to minimum torque values, the rim studs
have lost their locking action, and the wheel is
probably damaged. In this case, replace it with a 06/07/94 f350002a
new wheel. Failure to replace the wheel when the 1. Axle Housing Breather
conditions described above exist, could result in 2. Fill Hole Plug
loss of a wheel or loss of vehicle control, and 3. Temperature Indicator Plug
possible personal injury.
Fig. 12, Eaton Axle
16. Install the rim and tire assemblies. For instruc-
tions, refer to Group 40. NOTE: Drive axle wheel bearings are lubricated
WARNING This method ensures good exchange of heat,
WARNING: Failure to add oil to the axle housing nance required on bearings and hub assem-
bowl or the wheel hub after the drive axle shaft blies.
and wheel have been serviced will damage the
wheel bearings and cause them to seize during 18. For non-drive axles, add about 1 to 1-1/2 pints
vehicle operation. Seized bearing rollers can (0.5 to 0.7 L) of oil to the level shown on the hub
cause sudden damage to the tire or axle, possi- cap. Do not overfill. Install the vent plug or
bly resulting in personal injury. threaded filler plug.
17. Pour the recommended drive axle lubricant 19. Turn the wheels, and check the lubricant level.
through the axle housing filler hole ( Fig. 12 or 20. Adjust the rear axle brakes. For instructions, re-
Fig. 13) until the lubricant is level with the bot- fer to the brake section in the vehicle mainte-
tom of the hole. See Fig. 14. Refer to Specifica- nance manual.
tions, 400 for the recommended axle lubricants.
On Eaton axles, tighten the oil filler plug 40 to 60 21. Remove the safety stands from under the axle,

35.02 Bearings
Wheels
2 3
06/07/94 f350062a
1. Axle Housing Breathers

2. Carrier Filler Hole Plugs
3. Interaxle Differential
06/07/94 f350061a
A. Correct: Lube level at the bottom of the fill hole.
B. Incorrect: Lube level is below the fill hole.
Fig. 14, Lubricant Level Checking


Bearings 35.02
Wheel Hub Assembly and tions. Damaged nuts ( Fig. 4), usually caused by
inadequate tightening, must be replaced with
Drive Axle Inspection new ones.
Inspect the wheel studs or rim studs. Replace
1. Inspect the wheel hub flange. A loose wheel as-
studs that are stripped, broken, bent, or other-
sembly will cause the flange to be worn, jagged,
or warped. See Fig. 1 . Replace the wheel hub if wise damaged ( Fig. 5); for instructions, refer to
Subject 130 or Subject 140.
any of these conditions exist.
Inspect the flange surface around the wheel
studs. Improperly torqued wheel nuts will cause
worn or cracked stud grooves on the hub.
See Fig. 2. If wear spots or cracks appear any-
where on the hub, or if the hub is otherwise A
damaged, replace it with a new one.
2. Remove all the old oil from the spoke wheel or
hub cavity. Inspect the inner surface of the wheel
or hub for cracks, dents, wear, or other damage.
Replace the wheel or hub if damaged. A
3. Remove all the old grease or oil from the sur-
faces of the wheel bearing cups. Inspect the
cups for cracks, wear, spalling, or flaking.
See Fig. 3. Replace the cups if damaged in any
way; for instructions, refer to Subject 120.
A 06/30/93 f350031a
A. Cracked stud grooves.
Fig. 2, Typical Wheel Hub, Damaged

5. Inspect the drive axle studs. Replace the studs
that have stripped threads or are broken. Also,
replace bent or otherwise damaged studs; for
6. Inspect the drive axle shaft. If the vehicle has
been overloaded, or used under severe or im-
proper operations, the drive axle shaft may be
A twisted, bent, or otherwise damaged. See Fig. 6.
Replace the drive axle shaft and flange assembly
if damaged.
CAUTION
06/30/93 f350116a CAUTION: If the drive axle shaft and flange as-
sembly is not replaced once the shaft is twisted
A. Wear spots.
or otherwise damaged, it will continue to twist
Fig. 1, Typical Wheel Hub, Damaged until fracture occurs. With complete fracture of
the shaft, other axle parts may be damaged
4. Inspect the wheel nuts on disc wheel installa- which will increase the cost of repairs. Whenever
tions, or the rim nuts on spoke-wheel installa- a drive axle assembly is damaged, the drive axle

35.02 Bearings
meet. See Fig. 7. Replace the drive axle assem-

bly if damaged.
1
2
04/14/94 f330006a
1. Cup
2. Cone
Fig. 3, Spalling (Flaking) of Wheel Bearing Assembly 06/30/93 f230016
Fig. 5, Damaged Wheel Stud Nuts (Shouldered Type)
06/30/93 f350032
Fig. 4, Damaged Wheel Stud Nuts

06/30/93 f350023a
shaft and flange on the opposite side of the axle
should also be carefully examined, and replaced A. Direction of twist.
if damaged. Fig. 6, Damaged Drive Axle Shaft
7. Inspect the drive axle shaft-to-flange surface. 8. Inspect the inboard portion of the drive axle
Loose wheel bearings can lead to progressive flange. Minor burrs or rough spots can adversely
fatigue fractures where the shaft and flange affect the sealing action of the oil or grease

Bearings 35.02
Don’t spin the bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or

grit can scratch the roller surface and cause pre-
mature wear of the bearing assembly. Treat a
used bearing as carefully as a new one.
08/17/94 f330002a
1. Sudden Fracture Surface (dark area)

2. Area of Progressive Fracture
Fig. 7, Inboard View of Damaged Drive Axle

seals. Remove the burrs or rough spots using
fine-grit emery cloth. If they cannot be removed, 03/21/91 f350095
replace the drive axle shaft.
Fig. 8, Wheel Bearing Cleaning
9. Inspect the drive axle flange around the stud
holes. Replace the drive axle shaft and flange 1. Clean all old oil from the bearings and hub cavi-
assembly if any of the following conditions exist: ties, with kerosene or diesel fuel and a stiff
brush. See Fig. 8. Don’t use gasoline or heated
9.1 Cracks on the flange surface. solvent.
9.2 Metal build-up around the stud holes (a 2. Allow the cleaned parts to dry, or dry them with a
result of wear). clean absorbent cloth or paper. Clean and dry
9.3 Out-of-round stud holes. your hands and all tools used in the maintenance
operation. Oil will not stick to a surface that is
wet with kerosene or diesel fuel, and the kero-
Wheel Bearing Cleaning and sene or diesel fuel may dilute the lubricant.
Inspection
INSPECTION
CLEANING After the bearings are cleaned, inspect the assem-
blies, which include the rollers, cones, cups, and
Wheel bearings should be very closely inspected at
cages. If any of the following conditions exist, replace
the time of disassembly. The best inspection condi-
the bearing assemblies:
tions are possible only after the bearings have been
thoroughly cleaned using kerosene or diesel fuel oil, 1. Large ends of the rollers are worn flush to the
and a stiff brush ( Fig. 8). Before inspecting, clean recess; the radii at the large ends of the rollers
the bearings as follows: are worn sharp. These are signs of advanced
wear. See Fig. 9.
WARNING 2. Visible step wear, especially at the small end of
the roller track, or deep indentations, cracks, or
WARNING: Do not expose kerosene or diesel fuel breaks in the cone surfaces. See Fig. 10.
mable and, if ignited, could cause personal in- 3. Bright rubbing marks on the dark phosphate sur-
jury. faces of the bearing cage. See Fig. 11.
4. Water etch on any bearing surface. Water etch
appears as gray or black stains on the steel sur-

35.02 Bearings
1
06/30/93 f330004
Fig. 11, Rubbing Marks on Bearing Cage

05/12/94 f330085a
1. New Bearing
2. Worn Bearing Rollers
Fig. 9, Wheel Bearing Roller Wear
06/30/93 f330086
Fig. 12, Etching (Pitting) on Bearing Surfaces
Brake Drum Inspection

06/30/93 f330087 New brake drums are purposely undersized to allow
Fig. 10, Indentations, Cracks, or Breaks in Bearing for turning, which may be needed if the drum is non-
Surfaces concentric when mounted on the hub. If a new drum
is installed, the protective coating on the inner friction
face, and it greatly weakens the affected area. If surface must first be removed with a solvent, and
water etch is present, check the oil seal sealing then rinsed with a hot water wash. Use a clean rag
surfaces. to remove any oily residue or metal chips from the
friction surface.
5. Etching or pitting on functioning surfaces.
See Fig. 12. If a drum must be turned or replaced, the other
same-axle drum must be similarly turned or replaced
6. Spalling (flaking) of the bearing cup, roller, or to provide the same braking power on both wheels.
cone surfaces. See Fig. 3. Turned drums should not exceed the maximum al-
After inspection, brush the bearings with fresh lowable diameter, which is stamped on the outside
axle lubricant.

Bearings 35.02
surface of the drum. See Fig. 13 for a typical loca-

tion of this stamp.
NOTE: Drums that have been turned should

then be cleaned by using fine emery cloth fol-
lowed with a hot water wash. Drums that have
been renewed using emery cloth should also be
cleaned with a hot water wash.
CAUTION
CAUTION: Failure to replace drums when worn
or turned to limits exceeding the maximum allow-
able diameter will cause drum weakness and re-
duced braking capacity, which can lead to distor-
tion, higher drum temperatures, and ultimate 1
drum breakage.
WARNING
07/28/93 f350012a
WARNING: Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos
or non-asbestos) could cause lung cancer or 1. Maximum Diameter Stamp
lung disease. OSHA has set maximum levels of
Fig. 13, Outboard Mounted Hub and Drum Assembly
exposure and requires workers to wear an air pu-
rifying respirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. of fine hairline cracks remains small. Examine
Wear a respirator at all times when servicing the heat checks of drums often to be sure the
brakes,starting with removal of the wheels and checks have not widened into drum weakening
continuing through assembly. cracks (substantial cracks extending to the open
To minimize the possibility of creating airborne brake edge of the drum).
lining dust, clean the dust from the brake drum, Replace the same-axle drums if substantial
brake backing plate, and brake assembly, using an cracks are present, or if widening of the fine hair-
industrial-type vacuum cleaner equipped with a high- line cracks occurs.
efficiency filter system. Then, using a rag soaked in
water and wrung until nearly dry, remove any remain- NOTE: If there is normal heat checking as de-
ing dust. Don’t use compressed air or dry brushing to scribed above, inspect the drums at least every
clean the brake assembly. 12,000 miles (19 300 km) thereafter. If the ve-
If the drums are turned or replaced, replace the hicle is not equipped with brake dust shields,
brake linings. Refer to the brake section in this inspect the drums (using a flashlight from the
manual for instructions. inboard side of the wheels) every 6000 miles
(9700 km). Inspect more often under adverse
1. Inspect the inner friction surface. If a veneered
operating conditions.
(highly glossed) or glazed surface exists, renew
the drum by using 80-grit emery cloth or by turn- 3. Check for a contaminated inner friction surface. If
ing the drums. fluids are present, such as oil or grease, remove
the contaminants. Locate and correct the source
2. Inspect for heat checking, which is a form of
of the contamination.
buckling (cracking) resulting from a temperature
differential in the drum wall between a relatively
cool exterior and a hot friction surface. Heat
checking is normal on all drums and may not
reduce performance and lining life if the network

35.02 Bearings
WARNING
WARNING: If the brake drums are contaminated
with fluids, the brake linings will also be affected.
Since oil- or grease-saturated linings cannot be
salvaged, they must be replaced. For brake lining
replacement procedures, refer to the brake sec-
tion in this manual. Failure to replace fluid-
contaminated brake linings could result in a par-
tial loss of braking capacity.
4. Measure the inside diameter of the drum. If the
measured diameter is greater than the maximum
allowable diameter, replace the same-axle drums
and linings.
5. Check for a variation in gauge readings at differ-
ent points on the radius of the drum’s working
surface. If the variation is more than 0.010 inch
(0.25 mm) at any point, the drum is out-of-round
to unacceptable limits. Remachine or replace the
same-axle drums.
6. Inspect the outside surface of the drum. Remove
any accumulation of mud, dirt, or rust; foreign
matter acts as an insulator, trapping heat within
the drum.
7. Check for hard, slightly raised, dark-colored
spots on the inner friction surface or for a bluish
cast on the brake parts, both of which are
caused by high temperatures. If the drums’ maxi-
mum allowable diameters have not been ex-
ceeded, remachine both same-axle drums. If the
spots or discoloration cannot be removed, or if
remachining is not possible, replace the drums.
Also replace the brake shoe return springs. Refer
to the brake section in this manual for instruc-
tions.

Bearings 35.02
Aluminum Hubs
Removal (See Fig. 1) press so that the base is fully supported. Quickly
press out the bearing cups.
To ensure a tight fit, wheel bearing cups are pur-
posely larger than the wheel hub bores they occupy.
To remove the bearing cups, aluminum hub bores 1
must be temporarily expanded by heating the hub in
an oven (the bearing cups will also expand, but to a
considerably lesser extent). If adequate heating facili- 2
ties are not available, replace the hub, wheel stud,
and bearing cup assembly.
To install the bearing cups, aluminum hubs must
again be temporarily expanded using oven heating.
When the hub is properly heated, the bearing cup
and hub can be press-fit together, using a suitable
press.
WARNING
WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are 01/25/93 f350013a
toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may 1. Outer Bearing Cup
be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the 2. Inner Bearing Cup
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease, Installation
2. Oven-heat the hub to a temperature range of
WARNING
240° to 280°F (116° to 138°C). Make sure the WARNING: Commercial cleaning solvents are
oven thermostat is accurately set; if unsure, use toxic, can cause severe skin irritation, and may
an oven thermometer to check the temperature be fire hazards. When using solvents, follow the
of the oven before placing the hub inside. If ad- safety precautions recommended by the solvent
equate heating facilities are not available, re- manufacturer.
place the hub, wheel stud, and bearing cup as-
sembly. 1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
WARNING surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including
WARNING: Do not use oxyacetylene equipment 2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
or similar equipment to heat the hub. The heat warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
emitted from these instruments is not suitable for bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
uniform heating of the wheel hub. If any local bly.
(177°C) or higher, artificial aging through metal- 3. Oven-heat the hub to a temperature range of
lurgical change will occur. Cracks or weakness in 240° to 280°F (116° to 138°C). Make sure the
the hub can result, which could ultimately result oven thermostat is accurately set; if unsure, use
in the loss of a wheel and loss of vehicle control. an oven thermometer to check the temperature
of the oven before placing the hub inside.
hub from the oven. Place the hub on a suitable

35.02 Bearings
Aluminum Hubs
WARNING
WARNING: Do not use oxyacetylene equipment
or similar equipment to heat the hub. The heat
emitted from these instruments is not suitable for
uniform heating of the wheel hub. If any local
(177°C) or higher, artificial aging through metal-
the hub can result, which could ultimately result
in the loss of a wheel and loss of vehicle control.
hub from the oven.
6. Place the hub on a suitable press so that the
base is fully supported. Quickly press-fit the
bearing cup into the wheel hub until it is com-
pletely and evenly seated. Be careful not to
shave the sides of the bearing cup bore as the
bearing cup is seated. The accumulation of de-
bris will prevent the cup from being seated and
will also cause permanent damage to the wheel
hub. If the sides of the bearing cup bore are
damaged during installation, replace the wheel
hub assembly.
7. Allow the wheel hub to cool before handling.
Then, using a 0.0015-inch feeler gauge, check at
several places for the seating of the bearing cup
in the bearing cup bore. The gauge should not
enter beneath the cup. If it does, there is prob-
ably dirt or debris preventing the cup from seat-
ing. Using the instructions above, remove the
cup, then remove the foreign matter. Reinstall
the cup.
WARNING
jury.
bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean, lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.

Bearings 35.02
Ferrous Hubs
Removal WARNING
Wheel bearing cups on ferrous hubs are removed WARNING: Do not expose kerosene or diesel fuel
and installed by pressing them in and driving them oil to flames or intense heat. Both fluids are flam-
out without heating the hub. mable and, if ignited, could cause personal in-
jury.
WARNING 5. Wipe off the accumulation of grease left after the
bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
manufacturer.
2. Using a mild steel rod through the opposite end
of the hub, drive against the inner edge of the
bearing cup. Alternately drive on opposite sides
of the cup to avoid cocking the cup and damag-
ing the inside of the hub.
Installation
WARNING
manufacturer.

2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
bly.
4. Position the cup in the hub and press it into
place, using a suitable tool against the outer
edge of the cup. Cups must seat against the
shoulder in the hub.

Bearings 35.02
Replacement Replace all three studs.
WARNING
WARNING: If a wheel stud breaks, the remaining
studs are subjected to undue strain and could
fail due to fatigue. When a broken stud is re-
placed, replace the stud on each side of it (
Fig. 1). If more than one stud is broken, replace
all of the studs. Failure to replace the studs
could result in the loss of a wheel or loss of ve-
hicle control, possibly resulting in personal in- 06/30/93 f350096
jury.
Fig. 1, Wheel Stud Replacement
1. Remove the wheel hub from the axle. For in-
structions, refer to Subject 100. portion in the notches carved by the original
wheel studs during factory installation. If addi-
2. If a bent portion of a wheel stud will have to pass tional metal is scraped from the wheel stud
through the wheel stud bore, cut off the bent por- bores, the locking action provided by the serra-
tion before removing the wheel stud. tions will be greatly weakened. Loss of locking
3. Place the wheel hub on a suitable press; make action will prevent achieving final torque of the
sure the hub flange is evenly supported around wheel nuts during wheel installation. If final
and next to the stud being removed. With steady wheel nut torques during wheel installation can-
movement, press the damaged stud out of the not be achieved, replace the wheel hub assembly.
hub. IMPORTANT: If the driver’s side of the vehicle is
being serviced, the replacement wheel stud and
CAUTION inner wheel nut must be stamped with an "L"
(left-hand threaded), and the nut’s face must be
CAUTION: Don’t use a hammer or concentrated stamped "Left." See Fig. 2. If the passenger’s
heat to remove or install the wheel studs. Con- side of the vehicle is being serviced, the re-
stant, smooth movement of the wheel stud is
necessary to ensure the least amount of metal
placement stud and inner wheel nut must be
removal from the wheel stud bore. Concentrated stamped with an "R" (right-hand threaded), and
heat will damage the hub. If the hub is damaged the nut’s face must be stamped "Right."
during wheel stud removal or installation, replace 7. With steady movement, press the new stud all
it. the way into the hub.
4. Apply a coating of clean axle grease to the entire 8. Make sure the stud is fully seated and that its
shaft on headed studs. head (flange) is not embedded in the hub. If the
5. With the hub on a suitable press, make sure the head of the stud is embedded in the hub, replace
hub flange is evenly supported around and next the hub.
to the stud being installed.
6. Position the stud in its hole. Be sure the flat WARNING
edge of the head flange on clipped studs is in
WARNING: Wheel studs with heads embedded in
line with the shoulder on the hub.
the wheel hub will weaken the wheel hub flange.
Weakness in the wheel hub can result in the loss
CAUTION of a wheel or loss of steering control, possibly
resulting in personal injury.
CAUTION: If headed studs with serrations are
being installed, position the teeth of the serrated

35.02 Bearings
06/30/93 f350014
Fig. 2, Wheel Nuts

9. Wipe off any grease on the wheel studs and
wheel hub. Install wheel nuts on dry wheel studs
only.
10. Install the wheel hub on the axle. For instruc-

Bearings 35.02
Rim Stud Replacement, Spoke Wheels
Replacement 7. Install the rim and tire assemblies. For instruc-

tions, refer to the wheels and tires section in this
1. Remove the rim and tire assemblies from the manual.
spoke wheel. For instructions, refer to the wheels
and tires section in this manual.
remove it by double-nutting the stud. Turn the
inner nut with a wrench in order to remove the
stud. Then, proceed to the next step.
If the rim stud is broken near the surface of the
wheel, the stud should be center-drilled using a
high-speed drill, and then removed with an easy-
out tool. If needed, grind off a flat surface on the
damaged stud, then centerpunch the surface as
a starting point for drilling. Follow these recom-
mendations:
the stud; if the stud threads in the wheel
are damaged, replace the wheel.
2.2 Do not drill more than 1.25 inches (32
the stud’s entrance into the wheel. Drilling
through the bottom of the rim stud could
damage the wheel. If the wheel is drilled
into, replace it.
2.3 While drilling, keep the cutting surfaces of
the drill well lubricated with oil, which acts
cool frequently.
3. After the damaged stud is removed, tap out the
rim stud hole in the wheel to rid the threads of
old stud-locking compound. Use an appropriate
sized tap, depending on the original rim stud in-
stallation size.
4. Be sure the threads of the new stud are clean
and dry. Then, coat the insertion end of the rim
stud with an anaerobic thread-lock compound.
5. Using double nuts on the fine thread portion of
the stud, install the new stud. Seat the rim stud
using the torque values in the torque table in
6. Allow enough time for the thread-lock compound
to set, as suggested by the manufacturer.

Bearings 35.02
Drive Axle Stud Replacement
Replacement 3.2 If the drive axle shaft does not spring out-
ward, the seal may have loosened enough
to allow the shaft to be manually pulled
NOTE: If the hub has been removed from the from the axle housing. Try to manually
axle, proceed to the step which begins, "If remove the drive axle shaft from the hous-
enough threads remain..." ing. If the seal has not broken, repeat the
1. Apply the parking brakes. substep above.
2. Oil will spill as the drive axle shaft is removed. 4. If equipped, remove the tapered dowels and
Place a suitable container inside the wheel and washers from the drive axle flange.
under the drive axle flange. Discard the lubricant 5. Remove and discard the gasket.
after removal.
3. Remove the drive axle stud nuts ( see Fig. 1), remove it by double-nutting the stud. Turn the
and the washers. Remove the drive axle shaft as inner nut with a wrench in order to remove the
follows: stud. Then, proceed to the next step.
If the drive axle stud is broken near the surface
of the hub, the stud should be center-drilled us-
ing a high-speed drill, and then removed with an
easy-out tool. If needed, grind off a flat surface
1 on the damaged stud, then center-punch the sur-
face as a starting point for drilling. Follow these
recommendations:
2 the stud; if the stud threads in the wheel
hub are damaged, replace the hub.
4
3 6.2 Do not drill more than 1.25 inches (32
06/07/94 f350011a the stud’s entrance into the wheel hub.
Drilling through the bottom of the drive
1. Center Portion of Drive Axle Flange
2. Drive Axle Studs and Nuts axle stud could damage the hub. If the
3. Inner Wheel Nut wheel hub is drilled into, replace it.
4. Outer Wheel Nut 6.3 While drilling, keep the cutting surfaces of
Fig. 1, Wheel Assembly and Hub the drill well lubricated with oil, which acts
3.1 Using a hammer and a soft drift, such as cool frequently.
one made of brass, sharply tap the center
portion of the drive axle flange ( 7. After the damaged stud is removed, tap out the
see Fig. 1). The shaft will usually spring drive axle stud hole in the wheel to rid the
slightly outward after the seal has broken. threads of old stud-locking compound. Use an
appropriate sized tap, depending on the original
drive axle stud installation size.
CAUTION 8. Be sure the threads of the new stud are clean
When tapping the drive axle flange, avoid striking and dry. Then, coat the insertion end of the drive
the drive axle studs. If struck, the studs may axle stud (the coarse threads) with an anaerobic
bend or break, or the stud threads can be dam- thread-lock compound.
aged. Replace damaged studs.

35.02 Bearings
Drive Axle Stud Replacement
9. Using double nuts on the fine-thread portion of

the stud, install the new stud. Seat the drive axle WARNING
stud using the torque values in the torque table
in Specifications, 400. WARNING: Failure to add oil to the wheel hub
after the drive axle shaft has been serviced will
10. Allow sufficient time for the thread-lock com- damage the wheel bearings and cause them to
pound to set, as suggested by the manufacturer. seize during vehicle operation. Seized bearing
11. If the hub was removed from the axle, proceed rollers can cause sudden damage to the tire or
to Subject 100 or Subject 102 for installation axle, possibly resulting in personal injury.
instructions. If the hub was not removed from the
axle, proceed as follows:
11.1 Install a new axle flange gasket over the
drive axle studs.
11.2 Install the drive axle shaft in the axle
housing. The splined end of the shaft
must seat before the drive axle flange will
fit over the drive axle studs.
11.3 If equipped, install the dowels and wash-
ers on the drive axle studs. Install the
drive axle nuts. Using the sequence
shown in Fig. 2, tighten the nuts to the
torque values in the torque table in Speci-
fications, 400.
6 7
4 3
8 5
2
06/07/94 f330111
Fig. 2, Axle Shaft Flange Nut-Tightening Sequence
11.4 Add fresh oil to the wheel hub. For in-

structions, refer to Subject 100 or Sub-
ject 102.

Bearings 35.02
Troubleshooting
Problem—Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Not enough oil was used on the bearings, Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Coat the
or the wrong type of oil was used. bearing assemblies with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, refer to
Foreign matter or corrosive agents entered Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Also clean the
the bearing assembly. Dirt or metallic wheel hub, the axle spindle, and any other component in contact with the
debris from the bearings was not removed. bearing lubricant.
bearings is causing noise and wear. Subject 102 in this section.
Flat spots or dents on the roller surface Clean, then inspect the bearing rollers. Replace the bearing if damaged. Coat
were caused by skidding of the roller or the replacement bearings with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, refer to
improper handling of the wheel bearing Specifications, 400.
during installation.
Problem—Broken Wheel or Rim Studs

The wheel or rim nuts were overtightened. Replace the wheel or rim studs. Refer to Group 40 for the wheel or rim nut
tightening sequence.
An incorrect nut tightening sequence was
used.
Wheels are mismatched (hub-piloted Install properly matched wheels.
wheels are mixed with stud-piloted
wheels).
The vehicle is being overloaded. Do not exceed the maximum load-carrying capacity of the vehicle.
Problem—Damaged Hub
(Cracked hub) Local surface of an Replace the hub assembly. When removing the bearing cup, oven-heat the
aluminum hub was heated higher than hub.
350°F (177°C) during bearing cup
removal.
(Bent flange) Incorrect installation of the Replace the hub assembly. Replace the wheel studs as instructed under
wheel studs, such as using a hammer and Subject 130.
drift, or the hub flange was not fully
supported on the press during wheel stud
replacement.
Insufficient tightening of the wheel nuts to Replace the hub assembly and tighten the wheel nuts to the values in the
the wheel hub. torque table in Specifications, 400.

35.02 Bearings
Troubleshooting
Problem—Loss of Lubricant From the Wheel Hub

The drive axle studs are loose. Tighten the nuts to the torque values in the torque table in
Specifications, 400. Add lubricant to the axle housing or to the wheel hub.
The seals or gaskets are worn or Replace worn or damaged parts.
damaged.
Minor burrs or rough spots are on the Use fine-grit emery cloth to remove the burrs or rough spots. If they cannot be
inboard portion of the drive axle flange. removed, replace the drive axle shaft.
Problem—Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Dirt or grease has built up on the brake Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
linings (glazing), or the brake linings have replace the drums.
worn excessively.
The brake drums are worn, heat-checked, Install new brake drums.
or cracked.
Problem—Service Brakes Grab or Pull

For detailed information, refer to the air brake system troubleshooting section of this manual.
Problem—Poor Lining-to-Drum Contact

scored or grooved. brake drums.
The brake shoes are stretched or bent. Replace the brake shoes.
Undersized linings were installed. Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
An incorrect grind was used on the brake
linings.
bearings is causing wheel instability. Subject 102.
Problem—Brake Linings Are Tapered Across the Width

scored or grooved. brake drums.
bearings is causing wheel instability. Subject 102.

Bearings 35.02
Troubleshooting
Problem—Brake Shoes on the Same Brake Are Wearing Unequally

The brake linings are not a matched set. Install a new, matched set of brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
The brake shoes are stretched. Replace the brake shoes.
Problem—Shoes on Each Side of the Axle (Side-to-Side Brakes) Are Wearing Unequally
The inside surface of the brake drum is in Turn or replace the drums.
poor condition.
Problem—Edge of the Lining Is Showing Wear

The brake lining is too wide. Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
The brake linings are misaligned because
of incorrectly drilled brake lining holes.
Undersized brake drums were installed. Install new brake drums.
Subject 102.
incorrect fit of the wheel onto the spindle Install new wheel bearings and adjust them following the instructions in
due to the wrong wheel bearings or cone. Subject 100 and Subject 102
Problem—Brake Linings Are Scored or Grooved

Worn or scored brake drums have been Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Turn or replace the
causing poor contact with the brake brake drums.
linings.
There is abrasive material between the
lining and the drum.
Problem—Brake Linings Are Loose

The rivet holes in the brake shoes are too Replace the brake shoes.
large.

35.02 Bearings
Troubleshooting

Problem—Brake Lining is Cracked at the Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes

Overtightening of the lining bolts is Replace the brake linings. Replace the rivets or bolts with the correct size.
causing cracks.
The wrong size counter bore for the rivet
holes was made.
The wrong rivets or bolts were used. Replace the rivets or bolts with the correct size.
Problem—Out-of-Round Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes

The rivets or bolts are loose. Replace the brake shoes or linings.
Problem—Brake Drums Are Heat-Checked

The brake drums are out-of-round. Turn or replace the brake drums.
Subject 102.
The brake linings are glazed (dirt or Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
grease build-up) or are worn unevenly. replace the drums.
The lining friction material for the operation
of the vehicle is incorrect.
Problem—Brake Drums Are Heavily Scored

The brake linings are damaged. Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn or
replace the drums.
There is excessive wear on the linings.
On the last brake reline, the drums were Turn the brake drums.
not turned.

Bearings 35.02
Troubleshooting
Problem—Excessive Brake Lining Wear


Bearings 35.02
Specifications
Torque Values
1/2–13 70 (95)
Drive Axle Studs-to-Hub
5/8–11 135 (185)
1/2–20 75–115 (102–156)
5/8–18 150–170 (203–230)
Oil Filler Plug (Dana® Spicer® axles) — 40–60 (54–81)
Oil Filler Plug (Meritor axles) — 35 (47)
Directions
Stage 2: Back Off Completely and Spin the Wheel a Few Times
Pro-Torq® Nuts —
Directions
Stage 4: Back Off 1/8 to 1/6 Turn
Wheel-Bearing Adjusting Nuts, Stage 2: Back Off Completely
—
4-Piece System, Standard Hub Stage 3: Tighten to 20 (27) While Rotating Hub
Wheel-Bearing Jam Nut with Tanged
All Sizes 200–300 (271–407)
Nut-Lock or Lockring
Wheel-Bearing Jam Nut with Nut- 1–1/8 to 2–1/2 200–300 (271–407)
Lock and Lockring or Lockwasher
and Lockring 2–5/8 or larger 250–400 (339–542)
Eaton Drive Axle Recommended Lubricant

Grade
80W–140
MIL-L-2105D Under Extra Heavy Loads

35.02 Bearings
Specifications
Eaton Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Single-Drive Axles

Capacity*
Axle Type Axle Model
pints (liters)
23105S, 23105D 48 (22.7)
23121 41 (19.4)
30105S 46 (21.8)
ground.
Eaton Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Tandem-Drive Axles

Capacity* Capacity*
Axle Type Axle Model Axle Type Axle Model
Single Reduction DS341 39 (18.5)† Dual Range (2- DT401, 401-P 39 (18.5)†
Speed)
RS341 36 (17) RT401 36 (17)
DS381, 381-P 39 (18.5)† DT402, 402-P 34 (16.1)†
RS381 36 (17) RT-402 34 (16.1)
DS401, 401-P 39 (18.5)† DT451, DT451-P 39 (18.5)†
RS401 36 (17) RT451 34 (16.1)
DS402, 402-P 39 (18.5)† DT461-P 43 (20.3)†
RS402 36 (17) RT461 40 (18.9)
DS404 39 (18.5)† Double Reduction DP451-P 34 (16.1)†
RS404 36 (17) RP451 34 (16.1)
DS451, 451-P 39 (18.5)† DP461-P 43 (20.3)†
RS451 36 (17) RP461 40 (18.9)
DS460-P 44 (20.8)† DP521-P 42 (19.9)†
RS460 40 (18.9) RP521 39 (18.5)
DS461-P 43 (20.3)† DP601-P 42 (19.9)†
RS461 40 (18.9) RP601 39 (18.5)
DS581-P 42 (19.9)† DP651-P 41 (19.4)†
RS581 39 (18.5) RP651 37 (17.5)

Bearings 35.02
Specifications
Meritor Drive Axle Recommended Lubricant

Recommended Lubricant SAE
Ambient Temperature Meritor Specification
Lubricant Type Viscosity Grade
+10°F (–12.2°C) and up* 85W–140 0-76-A
–15°F (–26.1°C) and up* 80W–140 0-76-B
Hypoid Gear Oil API –15°F (–26.1°C) and up* 80W–90 0-76-D
Service Classification
GL-5 –40°F (–40°C) and up* 75W–90 0-76-E
–40°F (–40°C) to +35°F (+2°C) 75W 0-76-J
–40°F (–40°C) and up* 75W–140 0-76-L
–40°F (–40°C) and up* 75W–90 0-76-N
Synthetic Gear Oil
–40°F (–40°C) and up* 75W–140 0-76-M
Table 5, Meritor Drive Axle Recommended Lubricant
Meritor Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Single-Drive Axles

Capacity*
Axle Type Axle Model
pints (liters)
Single Reduction RS-23-160 39.5 (18.7)
RS-23-161 37.2 (17.6)
RS-23-180 47.3 (22.4)
RS-26-180 46.6 (22.0)
RS-30-180 46.6 (22.0)
Double Reduction RS-26-380 58.2 (27.5)
RS-30-380 46.6 (22.0)
RS-38-380 58.2 (27.5)
ground.
Table 6, Meritor Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Single-Drive Axles

35.02 Bearings
Specifications
Meritor Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Tandem-Drive Axles

Capacity* Capacity*
Axle Type Axle Model Axle Type Axle Model
Single Q-100 Forward 40.0 (18.9) Single SQ-100P Forward 42.0 (19.9)
Reduction Reduction
Rear 37.0 (17.5) Rear 37.0 (17.5)
RT-40-140 Forward 30.2 (14.3) SQR-100 Forward 36.0 (17.0)
Rear 22.8 (10.8) Rear 33.0 (15.6)
RT-40-145 and -145P Forward 30.2 (14.3) SQR-100P Forward 38.0 (18.0)
Rear 25.8 (12.2) Rear 33.0 (15.6)
RT-44-145 and -145P Forward 29.3 (13.9) SR-170 Forward 55.0 (26.0)
Rear 25.1 (11.9) Rear 43.0 (23.3)
RT-46-160 and -160P Forward 39.1 (18.5) SSHD Forward 34.0 (16.0)
Rear 34.4 (16.3) Rear 28.0 (13.0)
RT-48-180 Forward 61.1 (28.9) Double RT-48-380 Forward 61.1 (28.9)
Reduction
Rear 38.8 (17.4) Rear 63.6 (30.1)
RT-52-160 and -160P Forward 44.1 (20.9) RT-52-380 Forward 56.1 (26.5)
Rear 41.2 (19.5) Rear 58.2 (27.5)
RT-52-180 Forward 56.1 (26.5) RT-58-380 Forward 56.1 (26.5)
Rear 41.2 (19.5) Rear 58.2 (27.5)
RT-58-180 Forward 56.1 (26.5) RT-70-380 Forward 54.4 (25.7)
Rear 36.1 (17.1) Rear 53.1 (25.1)
SQ-100A Forward 40.0 (18.9)
Rear 37.0 (17.5)
Table 7, Meritor Drive Axle Lubricant Capacities, Tandem-Drive Axles

Rear Axle Alignment Checking 35.03
General Information
General Information
1
Rear axle alignment should be checked whenever
rear axle or suspension components are replaced. It
should also be checked when there is excessive
front and rear tire wear, or hard or erratic steering.
Manufacturers of axle alignment equipment offer a
variety of systems to precisely measure and correct 1
rear axle alignment. If this type of equipment is not
available, the basic tools needed for checking rear
axle alignment on tandem or single axles are a
straightedge (that is nonflexible and at least as long
as the axle), steel tape rule, and trammel bar or cen-
ter point bar.
The straightedge is used to see if a single axle, or a 07/27/94 f350007a
forward-rear axle of a tandem axle installation, is in
1. Adjustable Pointer
alignment with the frame. The distance from the
straightedge to the center of the wheel hub is mea-
Fig. 1, Center Point Bar
sured on each side of the vehicle; any difference in
the measurements means that the axle is out of
alignment.
A center point bar (Fig. 1) is used to see if the
forward-rear axle and rearmost axle of a tandem in-
stallation are aligned with each other (parallel). It has
adjustable pointers at each end, which are inserted
into the axle cap holes of each axle. By comparing
the distance between the two axles on one side to
the distance on the other side, it can be determined
if the axles are parallel.
Instructions and a list of materials for making a cen-
ter point bar are in Subject 130.

Preliminary Checks
The following preliminary checks should be com- see Group 32 in this manual or the suspension
pleted before checking any alignment measurements. manufacturer’s service literature. Sagging, fa-
tigued, or broken suspension springs create a
lopsided vehicle appearance and an unbalanced
Preliminary Checks weight distribution. Anything that changes the
ratio of weight on the springs affects the align-
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- ment angles and also the tire tread contact area.
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- Replace damaged springs as instructed in the
tion. Relieve internal stresses in the suspension applicable suspension section.
by driving the vehicle back and forth in a
6. Check and, if necessary, correct frame rail align-
straight line. ment as instructed in Group 31 in this manual.
1. Wheel assemblies should be balanced, espe- 7. Check and, if necessary, adjust rear axle track-
cially for vehicles that travel at sustained speeds ing. For instructions, see Group 32 in this
of more than 50 mph (80 km/h). Off-balance manual or the suspension manufacturer’s service
wheel assemblies cause vibrations that result in literature.
severely shortened life for tires and suspension
parts. 8. Check the rear axle wheel bearings for wear and
incorrect adjustment. Refer to Section 35.02 for
2. Do not mix tires of different size, type, or weight. instructions.
Tire wear should be even and not worn to limits
exceeding government specifications. Refer to
Group 40 in this manual and Group 40 in the
Heavy-Duty Trucks Maintenance Manual for
more information. Replace any tire that is exces-
sively worn.
3. Check the inflation pressure of the tires. Refer to
Group 40 in this manual for recommended pres-
sures. An underinflated tire causes tread wear
completely around both tire shoulders. An overin-
flated tire causes tread wear in the center of the
tire. See Fig. 1.
A B
12/14/94 f330081a
A. Underinflation Wear B. Overinflation Wear
Fig. 1, Tire Damage Due to Underinflated or

Overinflated Tires
4. Check for out-of-round wheels and wheel stud

holes. Replace the wheel if any of these condi-
tions exist.
5. On each side of the vehicle, check the height of
the chassis above the ground; for instructions,

Alignment Checking, Single Axle
Checking Using Computerized first arc. See Fig. 2. The point where the two
arcs intersect and the original (or middle) point
Alignment Systems on the opposite frame rail have matching loca-
tions.
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- 4. Line up the straightedge with the two matching
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- points. Check that the straightedge extends out
tion. The turn plates for the front wheels must about the same distance on each side of the
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment frame rail. Using C-clamps, clamp the straight-
equipment must be calibrated every three edge to the frame; see Fig. 3. The straightedge
months by a qualified technician from the equip- must line up exactly with the points.
ment manufacturer. Freightliner dealers must 5. Measuring from the outside edge of each frame
have proof of this calibration history. rail, mark the straightedge on both sides of the
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use of the frame. The marks (Fig. 3, Ref. A) must be of
alignment equipment, and use the alignment mea- equal distance from the frame and as far from
surements given in Fig. 1 and the applicable tables the frame rail as the tires are at their farthest
in Specifications 400. point from the frame.
IMPORTANT: The distance between the mark
Checking Using the Manual on the straightedge and the frame rail must be
equal on both sides of the vehicle.
Method
6. On each side of the vehicle, measure the dis-
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- tance from the mark on the straightedge to the
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- center of the wheel hub. See Fig. 3.
tion. The difference between these measurements
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Relieve inter- should be 1/4 inch (6 mm) or less. See Fig. 1. If
nal stresses in the suspension by driving the ve- the difference is more than 1/4 inch (6 mm), ad-
hicle back and forth in a straight line, or by jack- just the axle alignment. For instructions, see
ing the axle up and letting it down. Group 32 in this manual, or the suspension
2. Chock the front tires and place the transmission
in neutral. Release the parking brakes.
NOTICE
Do not use scribe lines for marking on frame
rails. Scribe lines, which cut or scratch the metal,
can develop into starting points for structural
damage to the frame.
3. Select a point on the frame rail forward of the
rear axle, and mark it using a pencil or soap-
stone. Then mark two other points, exactly 4
inches (102 mm) forward and to the rear of the
original point. Make sure that all three marks are
aligned and of equal distance from the outside
edge of the frame rail. Using a center point or
trammel bar, place one pointer on the forward-
most point, and make an arc with a pencil or
soapstone on the opposite frame rail. Then place
the pointer on the rearmost point and make an
arc on the opposite frame rail intersecting the

35.03 Rear Axle Alignment Checking
Alignment Checking, Single Axle
C D
03/25/94 B f350110b
For items A and D, see Specifications 400.

A. Distance from Rear Axle to Target (using Bee Line Alignment Tools)
B. Maximum Allowable Difference if Aligned Manually = ±1/4 inch (6 mm)
C. Maximum Allowable Tolerance if Aligned with Hunter Tools = ±0.18 degree
D. Maximum Allowable Tolerance if Aligned with Bee Line Tools
Fig. 1, Alignment Measurements
A
2
1 3
2 A
4
5
08/24/94 f350065a
A. Marks
1. Straightedge 4. Tape Measure
2. C-Clamps 5. Wheel Hub
01/14/94 f350077a 3. Matching Points
1. Center Point/Trammel Bar
2. Matching Points Fig. 3, Straightedge to Wheel Hub Measurement
Fig. 2, Marking an Arc

Alignment Checking, Tandem Axle
To align a tandem axle, first, check and (if needed)

align the rearmost axle; then, check and (if needed)
Checking Using the Manual
align the forward-rear axle. Method
A straightedge and a center point bar are needed to
Checking Using Computerized manually align a tandem axle. For instructions for
Alignment Systems making a center point bar, see Subject 130.
tion.
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment 1. Using the instructions in Subject 110, check and
equipment must be calibrated every three align the rearmost axle.
months by a qualified technician from the equip- 2. Using a center point bar, set the two points into
ment manufacturer. Freightliner dealers must the axle cap holes as shown in Fig. 2. Lock
have proof of this calibration history. them in place by tightening the setscrews.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use of the 3. With the points still locked in place, move the
alignment equipment, and use the alignment mea- center point bar to the other side of the vehicle,
surements given in Fig. 1 and the applicable tables set the two points into the axle cap holes, and
in Specifications 400. compare the axle spacing. If there is a difference
A B A
11/02/2011 C f350111a
A. Axle Centerline
B. Left-Hand Axle End Spacing, Measured Manually or with Bee Line Alignment Tools
C. Right-Hand Axle End Spacing, Measured Manually or with Bee Line Alignment Tools
D. Maximum Tolerance as Measured with Hunter Alignment Tools = ±0.08 degree
E. Vehicle Centerline
Fig. 1, Tandem Axle Measurements

Alignment Checking, Tandem Axle
of 1/8 inch (3 mm) or less between the spacing

on one side of the vehicle compared to the other,
no further action is necessary. If the difference is
more than 1/8 inch (3 mm), adjust the forward-
rear axle alignment. See Fig. 1. For instructions,
see Group 32 in this manual, or the suspension
11/02/2011 f350076a
Fig. 2, Center Point Bar Placement

Center Point Bar Construction
Materials Required A
NOTE: To obtain metric conversions (millime-

ters), multiply the number of inches by 25.4.
The following materials are required: 1
• 62" of square steel tube (1" x 1", measured 3
outside)
• 12" of square steel tube (1-1/8" x 1-1/8", mea-
4"
sured inside) 2 4
• 20" of 3/8" steel rod
• two 1/2" x 3" pieces of steel square-bar stock 1" 4"
• one 4" x 4" steel plate, 1/8" thick
• two 3/8–16 capscrews (grade 5), 2" long 7 5
• two 3/8–16 hexnuts (equivalent to grade 5)
6
Construction
1. Cut the 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 inch (inside measurement) 08/24/94 f350075a
square steel tube in half to obtain two pieces 6
A. Grind to a point.
inches long. These will be the sliding members
(slides) of the center point bar. 1. 3/8-Inch Diameter Rod
2. Weld
2. Cut the 4-inch by 4-inch steel plate diagonally 3. Gusset
into two pieces (gussets). Weld one gusset to 4. 1-Inch Square Steel Tube
each slide, as shown in Fig. 1. 5. 1–1/8 Inch Square Steel Tube
6. 3/8–16 Bolt
3. Cut the steel rod in half to obtain two 10-inch
7. 3/8–16 Nut
rods. Grind one end of each to form a point.
4. Weld the pointed steel rods to the slides and Fig. 1, Center Point Bar Construction
gussets, as shown in Fig. 1.
5. Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the center of each slide,
on the side opposite where the pointer was
welded. Drill through only one side of the tube.
6. Directly over each hole drilled in the step above,
weld a 3/8–16 nut (equivalent to grade 5).
7. Weld a piece of steel stock, about 1/2-inch wide
by 3-inches long, over the head of each of two
3/8–16 by 2-inch long capscrews.
8. Place a slide over each end of the 60-inch piece
of steel tube, with the pointed rods to the out-
side. Screw the handscrews (made in the step
above) into the slides until they are clamped
tightly to the cross tube.

Specifications
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- Rear Axle Parallelism Specifications

Method Maximum Tolerance
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment Hunter ±0.08 degree maximum axle-to-
axle difference; reference "C" in
equipment must be calibrated every three Fig. 1.
ment manufacturer. Dealers must have proof of Bee Line or Manual ±1/8-inch max. difference in axle
end-spacing; reference "B" minus
this calibration history. "A" in Fig. 1.
Table 4, Rear Axle Parallelism Specifications
Maximum Tolerance from Perpendicular, Manual
Method
Method Maximum Tolerance ± from
Perpendicular
Manual 1/4-inch (6 mm)
Table 1, Maximum Tolerance from Perpendicular,
Manual Method
Maximum Tolerance from Perpendicular, Hunter

Equipment
Method Maximum Tolerance ± from
Perpendicular
Hunter * 0.18 degree
* To use Hunter alignment equipment, refer to the applicable Hunter
service literature.
Table 2, Maximum Tolerance from Perpendicular,
Hunter Equipment
Maximum Tolerance from Perpendicular at Target,

Bee Line Equipment
Distance from the Forward or Maximum Tolerance±
Rear Drive Axle to Target from Perpendicular
inches (mm) inches (mm)
100 (2540) 5/16 (8)
120 (3048) 3/8 (10)
140 (3556) 7/16 (11)
160 (4064) 1/2 (13)
180 (4572) 9/16 (14)
200 (5080) 5/8 (16)
220 (5588) 11/16 (17)
240 (6096) 3/4 (19)
260 (6604) 13/16 (21)
Table 3, Maximum Tolerance from Perpendicular at
Target, Bee Line Equipment

Specifications
08/29/94
B f350111b
Fig. 1, Tandem Axle Measurements

Rear Axle Oil Seal, Eaton 35.04
Replacement scratch the bearing roller surfaces, and

cause premature wear of the bearing as-
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle. sembly.
For instructions, refer to section 35.02 in this 4.1 Inspect the inner hub bore. Remove dirt
service manual group for instructions. and contaminants from all recesses and
2. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from corners. Smooth any sharp edges with
the axle. Handling the bearings with clean dry emery cloth, and fill in any grooves with
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper filler. See Fig. 2.
CAUTION
through an axle ring (wear sleeve). A sharp chisel
could damage the spindle or shoulder.
3. Remove the steel axle ring (wear sleeve) by
striking the ring surface several times with a ball-
peen hammer ( see Fig. 1). Then, remove the
stretched axle ring from the spindle.
11/30/94 f330021a
Fig. 2, Clean and Inspect the Hub Bore

4.2 Wipe the hub area with a clean shop
cloth.
4.3 After removing the wear sleeve, inspect
the spindle. Remove any sharp edges
and burrs from the leading edges and the
shoulder area. Repair deep gouges with
filler and smooth with an emery cloth.
See Fig. 3.
03/08/94 f330026a 4.4 Wipe the seal and shoulder area with a
clean shop cloth.
Fig. 1, Removing the Axle Ring
4. Clean and inspect the bearings, the spindle, CAUTION
spindle threads, seal bore, and the hub cavity.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning time. Dirt or grit can scratch the roller surface
the wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, and cause rapid wear of the bearing assembly.
metal filings, or other contaminants can Treat used bearings as carefully as new ones.

35.04 Rear Axle Oil Seal, Eaton
CAUTION
CAUTION: Do not use any silicone or permatex
type bore sealant with this seal. The Eaton Cor-
poration recommends a light coating of bearing
oil on the outer circumference of the seal.
Do not mix lubricants of different grades. No not
mix mineral and synthetic lubricants. Do not pack
the bearings with grease when using an oil bath
system. Failure to follow these installation guid-
lines will result in less than desired performance
of the Outrunner seal, and installation-related fail-
ures are not covered under warranty.
6.1 Place the outrunner seal tool with the
words "air side" facing the adaptor plate
of the installation tool. See Fig. 5. Lubri-
cate the seal outer circumference with
wheel bearing oil.
08/08/94 f330096a
Fig. 3, Clean and Inspect the Axle Spindle

4.5 Inspect the bearings and hub components
for wear or damage. Replace any worn or
damaged components as necessary.
4.6 Coat the wheel bearing cones with oil.
wheel bearing cup.
IMPORTANT: Use the Eaton Outrunner installa-
tion tool with the centering tool when installing
the seal. See Fig. 4.
6. Install the oil seal in the hub bore.
03/27/95 f330117
Fig. 5, Seal Placement on Tool

2 3
1

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HEAVY-DUTY TRUCKS SERVICE MANUAL

Models: FLA COE

STI-206, S39 (8/10P)

Environmental Concerns and Recommendations

NOTICE: Parts Replacement Considerations

© 1993–2010 Daimler Trucks North America LLC

Daimler Trucks North America LLC

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 39, July 2010 I–1

I–2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 39, July 2010

For an example of a Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual page, see Fig. 1.

Fig. 1, Example of a Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual Page

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 39, July 2010 I–3

Group No. Group Title

I–4 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 39, July 2010

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 38, July 2009 050/1

EPA . . . . . . . Environmental Protection HEPA . . . . . . high-efficiency particulate air LH . . . . . . . . . left-hand

050/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 38, July 2009

no. . . . . . . . . number PTP . . . . . . . powertrain protection SPACE . . . . seat pretensioner activation

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 38, July 2009 050/3

050/4 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 38, July 2009

U.S. Customary to Metric Metric to U.S. Customary

Then Multiply Then

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 32, January 2006 050/1

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 35, January 2008 050/1

Cooling System 8. HVAC hoses must be routed at least six inches

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 27, January 2002 100/1

100/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 27, January 2002

6. Air lines and brake hoses that are bundled to-

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 27, January 2002 100/3

Seventeen-Character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Table 1, Seventeen-Character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (Manufacturer, Make, Vehicle Type)

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000 050/1

VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (Manufacturer, Make, Vehicle Type)

050/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000

VIN Positions 6 and 7 (Engine Manufacturer, Model, Horsepower Range)

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000 050/3

VIN Positions 6 and 7 (Engine Manufacturer, Model, Horsepower Range)

050/4 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000

VIN Positions 6 and 7 (Engine Manufacturer, Model, Horsepower Range)

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000 050/5

VIN Position 8 (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)

VIN Position 10 (Vehicle Model Year) VIN Position 11 (Plant of Manufacture)

VIN Position 11 (Plant of Manufacture)

050/6 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000

Seventeen-Character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Table 1, Seventeen-Character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (World Manufacturer Identification)

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000 060/1

VIN Positions 1, 2, and 3 (World Manufacturer Identification)

E 4 x 4 Truck-Tractor AJ FLD120 Glider Conventional Glider

060/2 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000

BL FL50 Conventional Class 6 ¶ CB FL60 Glider Conventional Glider

BM FL50 Conventional Class 7 CC FL70 Glider Conventional Glider

BR FL60 Conventional Class 7 CF T-2 COE Class 8

VIN Positions 7 and 8 (Engine, Brakes)

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000 060/3

VIN Positions 7 and 8 (Engine, Brakes)

060/4 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000

VIN Positions 7 and 8 (Engine, Brakes)

Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000 060/5

VIN Positions 7 and 8 (Engine, Brakes)

060/6 Heavy-Duty Trucks Service Manual, Supplement 24, June 2000

VIN Positions 7 and 8 (Engine, Brakes)