MASCARA

DEFINATION: Mascara is a black pigmented preparation for applying to eyelashes and/or eyebrows. It
darkens the eyelashes and gives an illusion of their greater density and length. It is claimed that dark
eyelashes and lengthy eyelashes enhance brightness and expression.

Mascara can be formulated in the form of cake, cream,liquid.

CAKE MASCARA

FORMULATION

Ingredients %

Carnauba wax 4.5

Beeswax 15.5

Isopropyl myristate 3.0

Stearic acid 35.0

Glyceryl monostearate 4.5

Triethanolamine 15.0

Sodium alginate 7.0

Ultramarine blue 12.0

Carbon black 2.5

Titanium dioxide 1.0

Preservatives q.s

Carbon black can be replaced with other pigments to obtain desired shades.eg;brownish-black,carbon
black blended with suitable brown oxide and ultramarine blue stable in presence of alkalis and organic
solvents used with carbon black to obtain blue black shade.

Glyceryl monostearate(GMS)is a good binder.It forms a smooth paste when mascara is moistened with
wet brush.Stearic acid is a fatty acid of choice.It prevents excessive drying effect. Good quality of stearic
acid can also be manufactured by solvent crystalisation.Triethanolamine is a humectant. Titanium
dioxide is a pigment used in cosmetics because of its inertness.Isopropyl myristate is a fatty acid
ester.Sodium alginate is used in small proportion s. These materials also help pigment to bind on to
lashes when mascara dries up.
 MANUFACTURE OF CAKE MASCARA

It includes melting of waxes,dispersion of pigments and milling of the mix in a roller mill.The grounded
material is remelted and is poured into moulds with slow stirring.

NOTE:

It is to be applied with wet brush.

The amount of water that is mixed with cake mascara varies significantly from person to person.Thus
,there may not be uniformity in its application. Cream mascara is said to an improvement on cake
mascara.

CREAM MASCARA
Cream mascara can be prepared by milling pigments into a vanishing type cream base. Alternatively, an
oil soluble dye may be used which may require a wetting agent.

FORMULATION

Ingredients %

Stearic acid 12

Isopropyl myristate 6

Glyceryl monostearate 5.5

Glycerin 5.5

Triethanolamine 3.5

Water 57.5

Pigments 10

Preservatives q.s

Pigments have tendency to settle, hydrated aluminium silicate (bentonite) can be added in
concentration of about 1%.Silicon fluid can also gives smooth coverage and affords moisture protection.
 MANUFACTURE OF CREAM MASCARA
Cream mascara can be manufactured by milling the pigments into a cream base. In case ,mascara is to
be prepared from oil soluble dye, it is necessary to include a wetting agent to lower the surface tension.
Without wetting agent color will not adhere to the brush which is used for applying mascara.

Colored pigments can be incorporated into the base just after completion of emulsification .stirring is
continued till the product is cooled. Any entrapped air is allowed to escape. The product is then filled
into tubes.

PACKING

Cream mascaras are usually packed in tubular container fitted with an applicator.The tubular container
is designed with a restriction at the opening which removes excess quantity of mascara when applicator
is withdrawn for use.

WATER PROOF MASCARA

Waterproof mascara can be prepared in anhydrous base.

FORMULATION

Ingredients: %

Isoparaffins 54

Ozokerite wax 17.5

Carnauba wax 2.5

Aluminium stearate 2.0

Isopropyl myristate 2.0

Mineral oil 13.0

Kaolin 6.5

Pigments q.s

These have been developed with the development of applicators.

 LIQUID MASCARA
Liquid mascara have been available for a long time but did not become popular till the development of a
special cylindrical container with small diameter brush integrated into screw -on lid. this dispenser is
convinent to carry in a bag.

Liquid mascara were prepared by using alcoholic solutions of resins and suspending carbon black in it. A
small quantity of castor oil can be added.

FORMULATION

Ingredients; %

Resin(10% solution in alcohol) 3.5

Castor oil 2.5

Lamp black 12

Alcohol 82

Rosin may be replaced with other resins or ethyl cellulose. These preparations dry rapidly leving a semi-
permanent waterproof colour. But these may irritate eye if dropped accidently into it.

MANUFACTURE OF LIQUID MASCARA

Resin is dissolved in alcohol with stirring .Carbon black is made into pourable paste with castor oil and
alcoholic solution of resin and stirring is continued till it is mixed well. The product is then filled into
dispensers.

Smudging and stickiness drawbacks can be overcome.

Aqueous based mascaras give a lift to the downwards eyelashes which appear good. In iapan they are
more popular because Japanese have thick

MASCARA SHOULD POSSESS THE FOLLOWING CHARACTERISTICS :

 It should be easy to apply and should be capable of even application.

 It should not cause smudging.
 It should not cake which might cause eyelashes to stick together.
 It should be non-toxic and non-irritant
 It should be easy to remove
 It should dry fairly rapidly but should not dry so rapidly that it interferes with the evenness of
the application.
 Viscosity of mascara, brush and other aspects of container are the facors which influence the
types of mascaras