Thickeners Master Data Sheet
Aluminium Magnesium Guar Hydroxypropyl
Thickener Xanthan Gum
Origin Biotechnology – Microbes
Clarity of gel Hazy
all natural, sustainable, low-
odour, high tolerance for
acids and bases so very
flexible.
Key benefits
Viscosity at 1.5% in water Medium
Flow Gel-like
Odour Nil
Can form fish-eyes (un-
dissolved bits of gum) that
Ease of hydration may be tricky to disperse.
Best in hot water with good
mixer.
Yes can hold a small oil
Emlulsification Benefits? phase if the right procedure
is used.
Heat Tolerance Excellent
Excellent. Can tolerate acidic
conditions well so useful with
pH tolerance AHA formulations Maximum
performance between pH 4-
10 but can tolerate pH 3.
Chemistry Anionic
Good with sodium chloride
and can tolerate anionic,
amphoteric and non-ionic
Electrolyte Tolerance (salts surfactants. Not compatible
such as Aloe) with cationics. Surfactant
active levels in excess of 15%
may cause precipitation of
the gum.
Suspending Power Poor
Acacia and Xanthan Gum Acacia Gum Hydroxyethyl cellulose Carbomer Carrageenan Guar Gum PVP (Polyvinyl Pyrolidone)
Silicate Trimonium Chloride
Plant Based From the seed of
Plant based plus ethoxylation the guar plant. Cyamaposis Mineral (purified smectite Modified guar gum. Semi-
Plant based + Biotechnology Plant based Synthetic (Acrylic Acid) Plant Based (seaweed) Synthetic polymer
(petroleum) Tetragtonolobus. It is a clay mined from the ground) Synthetic
galactomannan gum.
Relatively Clear but orange
Hazy Crystal Clear Crystal Clear Clear Slightly hazy Creamy Clear Crystal Clear
tinge
all natural, sustainably Emulsifying power and ability Great clarity and compatibility Crystal clear high viscosity Feels amazing on the skin This ingredients low reactivity This works in a very different This ingredient has been This polymer is used for its
sourced, improved flow over to solubilise small amounts of with surfactants for high gels suitable for hair and skin when used at low levels, make it great for hard-to- way to the gel based designed to be substantive to film forming properties. It can
xanthan gum and super-fast essential oils in some cases. quality shampoo and body care. None of the stickiness great slip and lubricity. Also stabilise formulations. It is thickeners. It has traditionally the hair and skin so while the be thought of as a mild 'glue'
hydrating. All natural and good acidic wash formulations. It also that can come with natural the cationic nature of the fairly un-reactive with acids, be used in cosmetics to carageenan gives some that can either stick products
stability. Acacia gum is also boosts foam stability and skin gums so products typically thickener gives it great long- alkali, cationics and anionics stabilise foundations, clay natural substantivity this goes such as suncreen or
reported to have some anti- feel. feel luxurious and smooth on term substantivity which meaning it can be used to based formulations and the extra mile in terms of foundation to the skin or style
oxidant properties which the skin. makes it a good addition to thicken and stabilise a whole formulations using salicylic conditioning and long-term the hair. PVP is frequently
make it an active part of your sunscreen and make-up range of products. It also acid and anti-dandruff skin moisturisation. When used in hair styling products
skin care product rather than formulations. hydrates quickly and while additives. The skin feel is soft used in a haircare product it where it stiffens the hair by
just a thickener. not crystal clear is more than and slightly powdery which can enhance the foam quality coating it with a fine film of
acceptable for a natural makes it great for emulsion and can help to moisturise polymer that can easily be
formulation. formulations that need to feel the scalp. washed off.
light and non-greasy.
Medium (there are different
Low (builds up viscosity when grades of HEC but the one
Medium used at high concentrations. that New Directions currently Very High Medium High Medium Medium High
Can be used up to 50% stocks gives a medium
viscosity at 1.5%
Gel-like Watery at 1.5% Smooth Scoopable Smooth smooth Smooth Smooth Gel like to smooth
Slightly Seaweed with some Slight odour but not offensive. Characteristic – slightly Characteristic-slightly
Nil Nil Nil Slightly Chemical Clay-like to none
grades Natural. chemical chemical
Requires a reasonable
Can form fish-eyes unless amount of stirring time so
Easy but takes a long time Can form fish eyes, takes a Easy, can be mixed in with no
Easy to use and hydrate, mixed well. Best with an best with an over-head mixer. Ideally requires an over-head
Easy but forms very low and is best with an over-head while to fully hydrate and Easy. Can be hydrated with a special equipment but an
even with a spoon or hand overhead mixer but a hand Also best when no other mixer as this can form fish-
viscosity mixer. Would be a challenge requires the use of an over- hand mixer. over-head mixer does make it
mixer. mixer will do the job in a materials are present in the eyes if not hydrated properly.
without that. head mixer for best results. easier.
small batch. water phase at time of
hydration.
Not really an emulsifier but
Yes Yes No can hold oils due to its No No Yes, can stabilise emulsions. No No
viscous structure
Can tolerate high heat but not
Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Yes Yes Yes
repeated heating over 50C.
Thickening possible between
pH 2-12 but most efficient
between 6.5-8. In very low pH
Yes, good for AHA's and
solutions the viscosity of the Poor in acidic conditions.
caustic solutions for cleaning.
Thickens up to a glue with Pretty good in acidic gel can drop due to Requires pH 5-8 ideally as in
Excellent. Best from pH 4-10 Can also be used with
low pH. OK at neutral or conditions. Best around pH 4- neutralisation of the polymer low pH the polymer chains Excellent Good Best at pH 4-8
but can tolerate lower pH. peroxides which make it
slightly alkaline 6 chains. In high pH the are in their un-neutralised,
useful in bleaches and hair
electrolyte reduces low viscosity state.
dye solutions.
electrostatic attraction
between the chains and thins
the solution.
Complex intra-molecular
bonding some of which is
ionic (mostly anionic) while Non-Ionic, Thicken by
Slighty Anionic Non-Ionic Cationic Non-Ionic Non-Ionic Cationic Non-Ionic
the majority is non-ionic neutralisation.
(hydrogen bonding) between
sugar chains.
Excellent - Can be used in
solutions of up to 50% Salt.
Can be used in surfactant
solutions such as liquid
Good Good Poor Good Good Good once hydrated. Good OK
soaps, conditioning spritzers
etc. Doesn't tolerate anionic
surfactants as well as other
types.
Good (1500 CPS) Poor Poor Excellent (Over 3000 CPS) Poor Good (1500 CPS) Good (2000CPS plus) No Poor
New Directions Australia Pty
y Ltd
47 Carrington Road Marrickville NSW 2204 Australia
T: 612 8577 5999
F: 612 8577 5977
E: nda@newdirections.com.au
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