Honda MSX125 Grom 2013-2018

20 Crankcases and bearings

Crankcases
1  Clean the crankcases thoroughly with solvent and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all oil passages
with compressed air. Clean up minor damage to the surfaces with a fine sharpening stone or grindstone. 

Caution:
Be very careful not to nick or gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or oil leaks will result. Check both
crankcase halves very carefully for cracks and other damage.  

2  Small cracks or holes in aluminium castings can be repaired with an epoxy resin adhesive as a temporary
measure or with one of the low temperature welding kits. Permanent repairs can only be done by TIG
(tungsten inert gas or heli-arc) welding, and only a specialist in this process is in a position to advise on the
economy or practical aspect of such a repair. If any damage is found that can’t be repaired, replace the
crankcase halves with a new set.  

3  Damaged threads can be repaired using a diamond section wire insert, for example of the Heli-Coil type
(though there are other makes), which are easily fitted after drilling and re-tapping the affected thread.  

4  If the cylinder studs are badly corroded or loose in the crankcase, remove them using one of the stud
extraction methods described in   Tools and Workshop Tips  in the Reference section. Use a drop of non-
permanent thread locking compound on the new or refitted stud and tighten it in the crankcase. 

5  Studs or screws that have sheared on or below the surface can sometimes be removed with extractors,
which consist of a tapered, left-hand thread screw of very hard, but brittle, steel. These are threaded anti-
clockwise into a pre-drilled hole in the stud, and once they bite should unscrew it. Otherwise the stud has to
be drilled out and the hole re-threaded, though in some cases a process known as spark erosion, that
requires specialist equipment, may be required. If a stud has sheared above the surface, it can be removed
using a conventional stud extractor, which avoids the need for drilling. 

Bearings
6  Dirt and other foreign particles get into the engine in a variety of ways. They may be left in the engine
during assembly or they may pass through the filter screen, then get into the oil and from there into the
bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are
sometimes left in engine components after reconditioning operations, especially when parts are not
thoroughly cleaned afterwards. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all parts
thoroughly and keep everything spotlessly clean during engine reassembly. Regular oil changes are also
recommended. 
Gear shaft bearings
7  If the gear shaft bearings have failed, excessive rumbling and vibration will be felt when the engine is
running.They should rotate smoothly, freely and quietly, there should be no rough spots or excessive play
between the inner and outer races, or between the inner race and the shaft it fits on, or between the outer
race and its housing in the crankcase. 

8  Before removing the input shaft right-hand bearing unscrew the retainer plate bolts and remove the plates  
(see illustration)  .  

20.8 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and

remove the plates

9  Before removing a bearing heat its housing using a hot air gun. Remove the output shaft bearings and
input shaft right-hand bearing by tapping them out towards the inner side of the crankcase using a socket or
bearing driver located on the inner race   (see illustration)  .  

20.9 Drive the bearings out using a

socket on the inner race

10  To remove the input shaft left-hand bearing from its blind hole, an expanding knife-edge bearing puller
with slide-hammer attachment is required   (see illustration)  . Heat the bearing housing with a hot air gun, fit
the expanding end of the puller behind the bearing, then turn the puller to expand it and lock it in position.
Attach the slide-hammer to the puller, then hold the crankcase firmly down and operate the slide-hammer to
jar the bearing out.  
 20.10 Input shaft left-hand bearing
(arrowed) sits in a blind hole

11  Before fitting a bearing heat its housing using a hot air gun. Smear the outside of the new bearing with
clean oil and fit it with its marked side towards the inside of the crankcase, then drive the bearing squarely in
using a driver or socket that bears only on the bearing’s outer race until the bearing seats   (see illustration) 
. 

20.11 Seat the driver or socket on the

outer race to drive the bearing in

12  Clean the threads of the input shaft right-hand bearing retainer plate bolts and apply some fresh
threadlock. Fit the plates and tighten the bolts   (see illustration 20.8)  . 

Crankshaft bearings
13  If the main bearings have failed, excessive rumbling and vibration will be felt when the engine is running. 

14  The right-hand main bearing should stay in the crankcase when the crankshaft is pressed out. To remove
the bearing heat its housing using a hot air gun, then tap it out towards the inner side of the crankcase using
a socket or bearing driver located on the inner race. 

15  If the right-hand main bearing came out of the crankcase with the crankshaft remove it using a bearing
puller, referring to   Tools and Workshop Tips  in the Reference section. 
16  There is a bearing for the right-hand end of the shaft in a blind hole in the clutch cover   (see illustration
12.37a)  - remove it using an expanding knife-edge bearing puller with slide-hammer attachment as
described in Step 10.  

17  The left-hand bearing is an integral part of the crankshaft and is not available separately   (see
illustration)  . If the bearing fails fit a new crankshaft assembly. 

20.17 The left-hand bearing (arrowed),

and the cam chain sprocket above it, are
not available separately

18  Before fitting a new right-hand main bearing heat its housing in the crankcase using a hot air gun. Smear
the outside of the new bearing with clean oil and fit it with its marked side towards the inside of the
crankcase, then drive the bearing squarely in using a driver or socket that bears only on the bearing’s outer
race, or using a hydraulic press, until the bearing seats. 

19  Before fitting the shaft end bearing into the clutch cover heat its housing using a hot air gun. Smear the
outside of the new bearing with clean oil and fit it with its marked side towards the cover, then drive the
bearing squarely in using a driver or socket that bears only on the bearing’s outer race until the bearing
seats. 

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