JEFF ROJAS

INTRODUCTION

One of the best parts about working as a fashion

photographer is that I have the opportunity to
work alongside some really talented fashion styl-
ists who specialize in making men look and feel
their best. Unfortunately, not many photographers
have the accessibility of having a stylist on their
photoshoots. Fortunately, the basic elements of
styling men isn’t difficult to learn and can easily
be implemented into your body of work. Consid-
er the information in this document a quick tuto-
rial on the most important element of style, fit.

In this guide I’ll discuss things to watch out for

when photographing men, along with tips and
tricks to make men look their best and small
tools you can use in a pinch while you’re working.

THE FIRST RULE. . .

WHEN YOU WANT YOUR SUBJECT TO

LOOK THEIR BEST, FIT IS THE MOST
IMPORTANT ELEMENT OF STYLE.
01
INTRODUCTION TO MEN’S SUITS
CHEAT SHEET.
FIT MATTERS. SHOULDERS
Whether you’re a fashion, portrait or wed- A well-fitted suit should
ding photographer, you’re going to have fit snug against your sub-
to learn how to photograph men in suits. ject’s shoulders.
It’s inevitable. Unfortunately like many
photographers, I’ve run into the problem
of having to photograph men in ill fitting
suits. I’ve seen suits that are entirely too HANDKERCHIEF
large on men with smaller frames, and I Draws attention to the
can’t help but picture a boy playing dress- chest and not the belly.
up. Alternatively I’ve seen larger men wear
bigger suits to try and hide their physique,
but that always makes them look larger.
Believe it or not, you can fix the situation.

In the case of weddings, most brides have

help with hair, makeup and wardrobe
during the day of the wedding, leaving TORSO
grooms to fend for themselves. I would CUFF A well-fitted suit
recommend providing those types of cli- Should reach just be- should hug your
ents with a style guide that illustrates how low the wrist bone and subject’s frame.
suits are suppose to fit vs. how they think show 1/2” of sleeve.
they’re suppose to fit. The extra initiative
in helping them look their best will direct-
ly influence the results of the final image.
You’re effectively helping your grooms,
help you. You’ll save yourself a lot of time
and frustration during the editing process
by paying attention to the small details.
JACKET LENGTH
Moving forward, I will focus on the fit of a Should be long enough
man’s attire and not on fashion trends. Fash- to cover the rear.
ion will change over time, proper fit is time-
less. This should also be your concern. You’re
a photographer, not an image consultant.

THE RIGHT FIT

STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS
 TORSO
WRINKLES
Attention to detail can make
or break your final image.

No matter how well fitted an

outfit is, wrinkles will make your
subject look sloppy and lazy.

On a side note, you can light-

en and remove certain wrin-
kles in post production, but
it’s more efficient to cor-
rect the issue in person.
TOO TIGHT TOO LOOSE JUST RIGHT
A well-fitted suit should hug
your subject’s frame.

QUICK TIP

If you’re concerned about

your subject’s clothing
wrinkles, consider invest-
ing in a garment steamer.
It’s great alternative to iron-
ing because it minimizes
the risk of burning clothes
while removing wrinkles.

It’s important to remember

NEVER to steam cloth-
ing while your subject is
wearing it as the steam
can easily burn them.

STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS

 SHOULDERS

TOO TIGHT TOO LOOSE JUST RIGHT

A well-fitted suit
should fit snug
against your subject’s
shoulders.
QUICK TIP

IS YOUR SUBJECT’S CLOTH-

ING TOO BIG? CONSIDER US-
QUICK TIP ING MINI SPRING CLAMPS TO
PINCH CLOTHING FROM BE-
Use contrast to your HIND AND CREATE THE IL-
advantage. In this im- LUSION OF BETTER FITTING
age the subject ap- CLOTHES. BE CAREFUL NOT
pears to be taller TO USE MINI SPRINGS CLAMPS
than actually is be- THAT HAVE TOO FIRM OF GRIP
cause of the lighter AS THEY MAY RUIN CLOTHING.
color of his shirt com-
pared to dark blazer.

STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS

 THE REAR SLEEVE LENGTH

TOO TIGHT TOO BIG JUST RIGHT TOO SHORT TOO LONG JUST RIGHT

Your subject’s pants Sleeves should reach

should not gather just below the wrist
around the hips or bone allowing 1/2” of
pockets, if they do, shirt cuff to show.
they’re too tight. Al-
ternatively, if you see
too much extra mate-
rial hanging from your
subject’s rear end,
their pants are too big.

STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS
 JACKET LENGTH THE “BREAK”

TOO SHORT TOO LONG JUST RIGHT TOO SHORT TOO LONG JUST RIGHT

When your subjects The point at which the

arms are at their sides, pants fold and meet
their jacket should fall the shoe is called the
into their hand if they “break.” The pants
curl their fingers. The should break once on
back of the suit jacket the top of the shoe
should also cover your and they should hang
subject’s rear end. about an inch off the
ground.

You should not be able

to see your subject’s
socks while they walk
and there should only
be one break. Any ex-
cess material should
be hemmed.

STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS
02
LARGE SUBJECTS

BIG, BROAD or BOTH.

Photographing subject’s with rounder
features, broader shoulders, or both can
be intimidating at first. That doesn’t have
to be the case. There are many ways to
advise subject’s with these types of fea-
tures on how they can compliment their
physique. The great part is that these are
all simple concepts that your subject can
use beyond their photoshoot with you.

The first consideration when photograph-

ing larger subjects is to remember that
any clothing that is too large on them will
only make them look larger. What you
want to do is compliment the form by us-
ing attire that will hug the subject’s frame.
For example, bulky outerwear will accen-
tuate a subject’s size and make them look
considerably heavier. This is due to the
fact that you are increasing your subject’s
mass with added layers. Consider asking
your subject to wear lighter layers such
as a lighter peacoat instead of a puffer. QUICK TIP

Consider using the example above when

photographing a couple of unequal size.
If the male subject is larger than his fe-
male counterpart, ask her to wear slightly
bulkier outwear to compliment his phy-
sique without making her look larger.
FIT IS OF EXTRA IMPORTANCE TO LARGER
SUBJECTS AS ANY BULDGES IN THE CLOTH-
ING WILL STAND OUT LIKE A SORE THUMB.

STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS

 STYLING LARGE MEN
OVERVIEW
Larger male subjects
should avoid loose
fitting attire and lots
of bare arms or legs.
The contrast of skin
vs. cloth draws all at-
tention to their cen-
ter. In terms of styling,
consider clothes that
help clean and define
the shape of the body
such as jackets, long
thin overcoats and
blazers.
Avoid pleats as they
only make subjects
look heavier.
STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS
STYLING LARGE MEN
SUSPENDERS OUTERWEAR FACIAL HAIR HATS SUITS
When larger subjects Outwear follows the A neatly trimmed Hats give the illusion of Advise your client
have round stomach- same fit guide as suits. beard around the elongating a subject’s that roomy suits look
es, they have two op- Additionally, large chin and jawline can body and thus propor- sloppy. Also note
tions with belts: tie bulky outerwear or enhance a subject’s tionally shortening the that wearing a sim-
them above or below layers of outerwear features. If your sub- width of their torso. ple pocket square will
the belly. That’s where will accentuate a sub- ject has a little facial It’s a also a great way help draw attention to
the magic of suspend- ject’s size and make hair growing, con- of making your subject the chest and not the
ers comes in, they let them look heavier. sider asking them to look taller in a pinch! midsection. Keep their
the pants drape natu- Consider asking your avoid shaving it until Consider using fedo- jacket buttoned in all
rally and help raise the subject to wear lighter after taking a couple ras and brimmed hats shots, unless they are
subject’s waistline. layers such as a lighter of photographs of when shooting larger sitting down.
peacoat instead of a them unshaven. You subjects.
puffer. would be surprised
how many men prefer QUICK TIP
the more rugged look.
SIMPLE OUTFITS WILL KEEP THE AT-
TENTION ON YOUR SUBJECT AND
NOT ON THIER CLOTHING. AVOID
CLOTHING WITH LARGE PATTERNS.
STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS
03 CASUALWEAR

WHENSUITSAREOUT
OF THE QUESTION.
For the days that you’re not photographing weddings or
business clients, it’s important to recognize how casual wear
is suppose to fit. The reality is that most men wear ill fitting
attire regardless if they’re in a suit or not. Most smaller men
compensate by wearing larger clothing to appear larger in
size; while most larger men compensate by trying to hide
their physique with larger clothing. Both these methods
of dressing only draw more attention to their body types.

As a photographer it’s important to overlook modern trends

and simply focus on the fit of the clothing. A client’s taste in
fashion is going to be subjective, and your concern should
be only how the articles of clothing accentuate their forms.
We’re photographers after all, not image consultants.

QUICK TIP

V-NECK T-SHIRTS HAVE BEEN AN INVALU-

ABLE ASSET TO MY TOOL KIT WHEN PHO-
TOGRAPHING MEN. THE LOWER CUT OF
THE V-NECK ELONGATES THE NECK LINE.

STYLE GUIDE FOR MEN / JEFF ROJAS