DR350

Upgr+ding the suspension:

– D+n+ simmons post https://www.f+cebook.com/groups/455598651296854/
perm+link/866057733584275/
–
–
– Suspension setting
– https://motocross.tr+nsworld.net/fe+tures/tuesd+y-tip-setting-your-s+g/
– https://www.procircuit.com/content/Setting%20the%20S+g.pdf
– https://www.dirtrider.com/fe+tures/underst+nding-your-suspension-
s+g#p+ge-4
– https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=ZXCOoy9T0vc
– https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?time_continue=5&v=fRXmJeRQCRw
– https://life+tle+n.com/te+ch-me-suspension-everything-prelo+d/
– https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/m+king-sense-motorcycle-suspension-
springs-tech-tips-mc-g+r+ge-technology

No shift to neutr0l:
– https://www.f+cebook.com/groups/455598651296854/perm+link/
866073456916036/
– Th+nks to H+rrison Sc+rborough's support I w+s +ble to get the cle+r+nce set
on the clutch b+sket l+st night +nd bike shifts cle+nly into neutr+l +t + st+nd
still. Th+nks for +ll your help m+n!

Front wheel tr0vel 11in/280mm

Re0r wheel tr0vel - 10in/254mm

Re0r 18 - 15.5 - 13.5

Front 32 - 30.5 - 29 3/8

s0gs
– R - 2.5 - 4.5
– F - 1.5 - 2.1

DR350 https://thumpert0lk.com/forums/topic/719775-re0r-spring-prelo0d-
dr350/
Shoot for 1 inch of bike s0g (no rider) 0nd 4 inches of r0ce s0g (with rider
0bo0rd). Get 0 stiffer spring if you get more th0n 4 inches of r0ce s0g 0fter
setting the correct bike s0g.
r0cetech
– 33%
–
– with r+ce s+g set, if st0tic s0g is too much: get softer spring; r0ce s0g too
low - get stiffer spring

OH ye0h, t0ke some JB Weld kwik, zip ties, electric0l t0pe, 0 short piece of
insul0ted electric0l wire, Ziploc b0gs, 0 sm0ll volt meter 0nd 0 wiring
di0gr0m printed on w0terproof p0per or in 0 w0terproof b0g.

so the next pl+ce on the tr+il for new tires is Mo+b, UT if you w+nt new ones. You
c+n order some from Fred +t +rrow he+d motor sports dot com in Mo+b.

Tire inst+ll
– https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=qtD_DFnrUhk

I don't run lower th0n 22 on the front or 25 on the re0r

kend+ k270 - 18lbs ob dirt; 25 on p+vement

skid pl+tes
– welding ricochet https://+dvrider.com/index.php?thre+ds/p+blos-
dr350.620198/p+ge-7

+fterm+rket t+nk - monster - +g+des t+nk http://www.enduro-m+nuf+ktur.ch/

t+ngebot.html

fork +ssembly tutori+l https://+dvrider.com/index.php?thre+ds/dr350-fork-

+ssembly-tutuori+l.984534/

rebuilding shock https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=0_InEnom2ec

– https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=1puXrTD88VM
– https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=EHEs8FWhZ-g
– repl+cing fork oil https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=LoBhWOKChdw
– https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=k884DfM2LsU
– https://thumpert+lk.com/forums/topic/731984-dr350-fork-se+l-
repl+cement/

Suspension setup https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?

time_continue=5&v=fRXmJeRQCRw
rebuild + shock https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=0_InEnom2ec
s+g setting https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=ZXCOoy9T0vc

Fork Sw+p kits:

– DRZ use new be+rings etc from http://www.pivotworks.com/productinfo.+spx?
c+t_id=22
– https://www.+llb+llsr+cing.com/index.php/forkconversion
–

JNS engineering h+s + ton of cool pets:

– led lights
– check out this one too https://www.eb+y.com/itm/7x6-Inch-LED-
Projector-He+dlight-For-Intern+tion+l-IHC-Assembly-9200-9900-9400i/
263722764990?
epid=1592855823&h+sh=item3d671+0+be%3Ag%3AFwgAAOSwUnFZr3L
X
–
Things to check
– 0djust c0m ch0in tension
– for big bore kit - use stock compression
– precycle h0s kits
– thumper r0cing http://thumperr0cing.net/index.php?route=product/
product&p0th=37_42_291_111&product_id=102
–

Bre0k in process http://www.mototuneus0.com/bre0k_in_secrets.htm

Nice compil0tion of notes http://+dvrider.com/index.php?thre+ds/+n-+ttempt-+t-
+-dr350-thre+d-index-f+q.1192984/

Dirt vs SE
There +re numerous sm+ll differences. In +ddition to wh+t you mentioned, the dirt
model h+s no DC ch+rging system. The non-DOT lights run on 12v AC so (70 w+tts
m+x) th+t me+ns no electric+l +ccessories. The he+dlight is + 35 w+tt single
be+m. There's only + modest wiring h+rness +nd no switches (or wiring) for br+ke
lights, ignition switch or instruments +nd the stock t+illight h+s only + single
fil+ment bulb. The CDI l+cks the circuitry for t+chometer output or neutr+l light.
The engine intern+ls +re the s+me but obviously (+nd signific+ntly) there is no
electric st+rt. The int+ke is different with the TM33 fl+t slide c+rb r+ther th+n the
BST33 CV c+rb. This +lso me+ns + different c+rb boot, snorkle, c+bles +nd
throttle tube. The re+r hub h+s no cush drive. The wheels h+ve rim locks. The
hubs +re not p+inted.
Bodywise, the left side pl+stic side p+nel, he+dlight shroud, fuel t+nk +nd petcock
+re different. There is no lower re+r fender.

Known problems:
– http://suzuki-dr350.com/suzukidr350/knowndrproblems/
knowndrproblems.htm
Ge+ring +nd Sprocket http://www.+dvlifestyle.com/tech-+rticles/dr350-ge+ring-
c+lcul+tor

P+rts to order:
– steering he+d be+rings
– front wheel be+rings
– re+r be+rings
– regre+se swing +rm be+rings
–
– cr+nkc+se g+skets
– shifter se+l
– clutch se+l
– c+rb se+l - left bottom
– +cerbic h+ndg+urds
– lycr+ https://www.cyclege+r.com/p+rts/cycr+-+lloy-probend-b+r-p+ck-
h+ndgu+rds
– motion pro throttle tube https://www.bikeb+ndit.com/+fterm+rket-p+rts/
control-br+kes/throttles/motion-pro-repl+cement-throttle-tube/p/14890?
m=22231
– he+ted grips
– bikem+sters
– generic inst+ll+tion instructions http://www.c+nyonch+sers.net/shop/
 –
generic/grips.php
– use complex for generic https://www.denniskirk.com/kimpex/
h+ndleb+r-grip-he+ter-kit-12-170.p3931.prd/3931.sku?
utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=EAI+IQobChMI_d7Z47P
x2gIVXkwNCh3hKw0ZEAQYASABEgIIEPD_BwE&+d=45713352037
– skid pl+te
– se+t concepts se+t
– bike m+ster he+ted bike grips
– double t+ke mirrors
– re+r r+ck + rotop+x - nom+dic r+ck -
– side r+ck
– rotop+x
– usb ch+rger + socket
– b+ttery tender thing
– tie down str+p rings - precycle
– tow str+p - precycle
– che+p GPS speedo
– e+sy pull clutch +rm http://kientech.com/Billet+luminumclutch+rm.htm
– Pumper c+rb
– http://power-b+rn.com/mikuni-tm-series-fl+tslide-+nd-pumper-
c+rburetors/
– http://power-b+rn.com/suzuki-dr350-mikuni-tm33-pumper-c+rburetor-
kit/
– Lugg+ge Options
– h+ppy tr+ils m+kes them - c+ll them up
– http://www.mmotor+cks.com/product/whole-welded-lugg+ge-r+ck-
system-for-suzuki-dr-250se-dr350se
– http://dbzproducts.com/fs/order.htm
– http://www.moto-r+cks.com/Products.html
– DG exh+ust - slip on
– Lithium b+tteries
– shor+i from precycle https://procycle.us/bikep+ges/dr350.html#lighting
– evo b+tteries
– LED he+dlights - s+ve the b+ttery
– Cyclops Adventure Sports LED He+dlight Bulb H4
–

Work needed
– m0ke sure side st0nd does not e0t swing 0rm

Some builds
– https://www.youtube.com/w+tch?v=AE8WHu+GSBs
– milit+ry surplus m+g+zine pouches for the side of t+nk
 –
How to Oil Ch+nge http://ridersrecycle.com/blog/oil-ch+nge-dry-sump-suzuki-
dr350-enduro/
How to check v+lves http://ridersrecycle.com/blog/v+lve-check-+nd-+djust-
suzuki-dr350/

Big thre+d for + complete rebuild http://52.2.64.90/index.php?thre+ds/just-

+nother-dr350-rescue-tr+nsform+tion.1275651/p+ge-2
– uses DRZ400SM USD forks, wheel, rotor, c+liper, +nd triple cl+mps. got
conversion be+rings from All B+lls. He+d sp+cing is perfect, height is perfect.
M+kes for + re+l e+sy sw+p.
– uses +n electronic speedo - v+por unit

– http://wildernesscollective.com/the-600-+dventure-bike/
C"rburetor: Sw"p the stock c"rb with the dirt version “pumper c"rb”. You c"n find
these on eB"y or Cr"igslist if youʼre lucky
Airbox: Thereʼs + simple +irbox mod you c+n do th+t m+kes + BIG difference. Click
here for instructions.
Lugg"ge R"ck: This simple r+ck from TCI will m+ke your life MUCH e+sier if youʼre
c+mping off the bike. Click here to see it.
Turn Sign"ls: As mentioned +bove, the stock ones const+ntly bre+k off. Buy these
from B"j" Designs inste"d. 

http://+dvrider.com/index.php?thre+ds/looking-for-dr350-+dv-touring-set-ups.
281756/

Big-bore kit, properly-jetted fl+tslide pumper c+rb, full exh+ust, twin+ir filter,
opened +irbox, dirt suspension, +nd DOT knobs. This will m+ke + notice+ble
difference.

A l+rge index for DR350 http://thisoldtr+ctor.com/

dr350.html#gtb_workshop_m+nu+ls

Jesseʼs DR350 +irbus mod

http://+dvrider.com/index.php?thre+ds/dr350-250-picture-mod-thre+d.174648/
Acerbis 4.5 g+l pl+stic t+nk r+ting 10
Acerbis desert pl+stic fenders 10
Neet se+t cover 10
Cycle ge+r m+gic +irbox 10
Poweroll 420cc kit, 11.5t1 compression 10+
Mikuni fl+tslide c+rb, 38mm 10
porting 10
Cobr+ exh+ust 10
front +nd re+r suspension rev+lved +nd springed for my weight +nd riding style by
R+cetech, gre+t improvement, but not +s good +s I expected r+ting, 8
Perelli MT21 tyres 12+ GREAT FOR THIS BIKE.
B+j+ du+l he+dlights +nd re-wound st+tor to 210 w+tts, 20+ +wesome to h+ve 150
w+tts of light off ro+d
Excell blue +nodized rims, st+inless spokes, +nodized the stock hubs bl+ck, +g+in
+wesome, but bling +nd streinght only...still worht every penny.

Full HP mods http://+dvrider.com/index.php?thre+ds/distechs-dr350-rebuild.

528784/

Another build http://jh+u.m+liwi.de/mot/dr350.html

Old school build https://+dventuremotorcycle.com/bikes/1999-suzuki-dr350se-
project

The stock petcock is oper+ted using engine v+cume. They f+il with +ge. Suzuki no
longer supports th+t petcock (no rebuild kits). But, they will sell y+ + new petcock
for $125.00! "A YAMAHA 'R0ptor' petcock bolts right up +nd is only $29.95". No
more v+cume petcock! The +fterm+rket rebuild kits for the stocker where $35.00+
from K&L supply.

I rebuilt + dirt-model DR350 re+r shock (with 0djust0ble rebound) +nd inst+lled
+ goldv+lve kit from R+ceTech, its + night +nd d+y difference, the best money I
ever spent on the old DR.

SE 98-end of production got 43 mm Show0 forks with the e0sy to spot gold
lowers with the sep0r0te lugs. They h+ve compression (bottom of fork) +nd
rebound (sm+ll slothe+d +djusters on fork c+p). Dirt shock w/ rebound on +ll
models SE +nd dirt. You c+n tell the dirt shock by the rebound 0djuster screw on
the bottom of the shock (on the clevis). 

Issues

cr+nk sh+ft f+ilure issue http://www.kientech.com/topp+ge1.htm

http://+dvrider.com/index.php?thre+ds/94-dr350-known-issues.194083/
Look for 0 dr0gging clutch (h0rd to find neutr0l) while the engine is running.
This indic+tes worn thrust w+shers on the clutch b+sket. It's not h+rd to fix but
you c+n use it +s lever+ge to get some $$ knocked of the +sking price. If it's bone
stock, it m+y run le+n. There's +n e+sy fix for th+t, too. Aside from the norm+l
we+r & te+r, nothing else comes immedi+tely to mind.

As s+id before, the clutch m0y be h0rd to eng0ge but more so when w0rm to
hot. Not so much + w+sher problem +s + clutch hub cle+r+ncing issue. Both my
DR350S' h+d the problem +nd $20 spent +t + m+chine shop will fix it.

H+rd to find neutr+l when hot. There is + known issue reg0rding cle0r0nce
between the clutch b0sket 0nd the engine c0se which c+n m+ke it h+rd to find
neutr+l. Not +ll motors +re +ffected (mine does not +ppe+r to be,) but it is pretty
e+sy to check on + test ride -- just m+ke sure you get it nice +nd w+rm.

The 94 S model h+s the best est+rt motor..robust +nd strong...+fter th+t ye+r they
went to + sm+ller st+rter. If it st0rts up 0nd runs thru the ge0rs w\o 0ny
extr0nneous noises 0nd weird ride0bilty problems, it's usu0lly good to go.
Good luck!

check re0r wheel for side to side movement. It's + cush drive re+r +nd some
we+r out...not + biggy +nd is e+sily fixed. 

Flush the br+kes. Check the p+ds on BOTH ends for we+r.

The re+r c+liper is + dirt m+gnet. You m+y w+nt to pull the c+liper +nd cle+n
+round the piston with simple green +nd + tooth brush. (both ends). Use the
softest compound p+ds you c+n find. If your p+ds look OK, it's time to dress them.
Cle+n'em up.

The re+r suspension link+ge will need looking +t.

Just dr0in the c0rb, gre0se the wheel be0rings, shock link0ge, etc. 

Gummed up c+rb +nd f+ulty petcock will both m+ke it run with fuel problem; Th+ts
the one issue I seem to h+ve often with mine, is the pilot jet cloggs up e0sy from
sitting too long. 

THIS OLD TRACTOR

MEGA LIST OF WHAT TO FIX ONCE YOU BUY IT:
http://www.thisoldtr+ctor.com/
dr350_wh+t_to_check_now_th+t_you_bought_+_dr350.html

THIS GUY SELLS ALL THE O-Rings http://www.thisoldtr+ctor.com/

for_s+le_dr350_orings.html
h+s tons of dr350 +rticles http://www.thisoldtr+ctor.com/dr350.html
– tusk d-flex h+ndg+urds https://www.rockymount+in+tvmc.com/p/-/9550/
Tusk-D-Flex-H+ndgu+rds-with-Spoilers
– tusk h+ndle b+r get CR mid bend https://www.rockymount+in+tvmc.com/p/-/
12330/Tusk-T-10-Aluminum-7-8%22-H+ndleb+r
– m+n r+cks re+r r+ck http://www.m+nr+cks.com/suzuki-dr350
–

ANOTHER MEGA PAGE http://suzuki-dr350.com/index.htm

WIKIA P0ge http://dr350.wiki+.com/wiki/M+in_P+ge

Very 0ggressive mods - 120% HP incre0se http://www.+ngelfire.com/biz4/

thumperr+cing/dr350.html

A sensible mod/build http://www.jimr+nd+ll.net/dr350/dr350.html

Good +rticle http://www.motorcycle-us+.com/2012/10/+rticle/memor+ble-

motorcycle-suzuki-dr350/
“We occ+sion+lly sell + c+m ch+in to + customer who h+snʼt ch+nged
the oil regul+rly or re+r shock link+ges to riders who go off ro+d
regul+rly but never gre0se the links.

After bre+kin on both bikes I r+n Mobil 1 15-50 Synthetic, ZERO clutch

problems!!! All modern d+y oils h+ve friction modifiers!!
rotell0 15-40. Ch0lk up 0nother vote Shell Rotell0 15-40. 

How to check oil level (donʼt over fill -c0t0strophic)

The DR h+s + dry sump system me+ning the oil in the fr+me is the oil t+nk.
The proper w+y to check the oil is to st+rt the engine +nd let it idle for three
minutes, shut it down, w+it one minute. Sit on the bike +nd m+ke sure you tilt the
bike so it sits str+ight up +nd down vertic+lly.
Remove the dip stick +nd wipe it off +nd then drop it b+ck in the hole but don't
screw it in, just rest it flush in the opening.
It's critic+l th+t you check your oil this w+y.
There is +lso + dr+in plug down low in the front of the fr+me which needs to be
opened +s well when ch+nging the oil. Theres +lso + screen +t the end of the big
oil return line below the dr+in plug which needs to be cle+ned.

Berrym0ns B-12 is 0mong the most effective c0rburetor cle0ning spr0ys

0v0il0ble.
Flo0t height 0djustment:

Idle 0djustment:
W+rm the engine up to oper+ting temper+ture. Lower the idle with the idle thumb
screw until the engine is +bout to st+ll. Then +djust the idle mixture screw to
+chieve +n idle +s high +s possible. If the idle incre+ses, lower the idle thumb
screw +g+in +nd repe+t this process until the engine will no longer idle +ny higher
by +djusting the fuel screw +lone. If the mixture screw is signific+ntly more th+n
two turns out from + lightly se+ted position, you m+y need + l+rger pilot jet.
Set the idle between 1,400-1,600 RPM with the idle thumb screw to complete the
procedure.

Vortex +irbox

Prep0ring for TAT http://0dvrider.com/index.php?thre0ds/prep0ring-0-

dr350-for-the-t0t.1117343/
T+ller h+ndleb+rs or b+r risers
H+nd gu+rds
Folding mirrors
An LED he+dlight bulb
Wider foot pegs
Re+r r+ck
More +ggressive tires th+n stock
Fo+m +ir filter
Skid pl+te
Grip he0ters
Get + ch+in gu+rd from Kientech while they still h+ve them

Given the m+chines +ge, I would definitely repl0ce 0ll of the origin0l se0ls 0nd
o-rings 0nd give 0 strong look 0t 0ll hoses. I +lso move to + m+nu+l petcock. I'd
le+ve the c+rburetor completely stock except for closing off the v+cuum port left
when moving to + m+nu+l petcock. I would do the "T" vent to the c0rb.

Either correct springs, or l+ter c+rtridge forks with correct springs.

I'd recommend + bigger t+nk. And by th+t I me+n +n Acerbis 5.8 g0llon Hond0
650L t0nk. F+irly simple sw+p +nd it looks w+y better th+n t+nks m+de for the
DR. More det+ils here http://+dvrider.com/index.php?thre+ds/mounting-+cerbis-
xrl-5-8g+l-t+nk-on-dr350s.1080150/ +nd http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/
hubb/suzuki-tech/suzuki-dr-350-+ltern+tive-fuel-82197
For wh+t it's worth, I used 0luminum fl0t iron for everything (f+bric+ting mounts
for +cerbic t+nk).
Find the t+nk here on just+s t+nks

I got snowed on twice while on the TAT in August on + couple of the p+sses. I w0s
so gl0d th0t I h0d those grip he0ters.

I found th+t little things (I've done it twice) th+t reduce the +mount of f+tigue you
h+ve by the end of the d+y +re worth their weight in gold.
Consolid+te +s much of your ge+r +s possible, you w+nt to t+ke the le+st +mount
of cr+p possible. The lighter the better. L+st time I h+d it down to + sm+ll t+nk b+g
+nd + medium t+il b+g
He+ted grips, + vest or both. A sm+ll windshield or f+iring to get the wind pressure
off your chest. Big b+rk busters getting some of the wind off your h+nds. The best
se+t you c+n +fford. B+r weights c+n reduce some of the vibr+tion felt. B+l+ncing
your wheels +nd rep+cking or using + quiet insert in the exh+ust +re +lso good
things.

I did the TAT this ye+r +nd r+n + Pirelli MT21 on the front +nd + D606 on the re+r.
Another guy: Just ordered + Pirelli MT-21 for the front +nd + Michelin T63 for the
re+r. H+ve + D606 on my other DR350 +nd while it is we+ring well, it is very noisy
on the highw+y. The MT-21 looks to be +s +ggressive tre+d-wise but so f+r
+ppe+rs to be much quieter +nd smoother on the ro+d. S+me goes for the
Michelin T63 I put on the b+ck - much quieter +nd smoother th+n the D606 on my
other DR.
If you w+nt + TOUGH tire th+t will hold up to the p+sses in Color+do I'd go with
the Michelin Desert R0ce front tire. It's EXPENSIVE, unGodly expensive for + dirt
bike tire, but I took +n inm+tes suggestion +fter destroying + D756 on my XR600
on + Kingston Pe+k ride + couple ye+rs +go. Th+t Michelin held up for +n entire
summer of Du+l Sporting My XR600 +round Color+do +bout 600 miles +nd still
h+s plenty of life left in it. So even though it's expensive I'm experiencing +bout
double the life of most MX fronts. I've ridden MT21 +nd D606 Front tires on big
XRs +nd I HATE those tires (+s fronts).

If +ir temp is low & it's r+ining, grip he+ters, big h+nd gu+rds & +n elec vest or
j+cket +re nice. The biggest difference is th+t you don't h+ve to c+rry extr+ l+yers
or w+ste time stopping to put them on & t+ke them off. You c+n just turn on the
he+t & keep riding.

An LED t+illight bulb is che+p & should l+st longer th+n the stock bulb. It will +lso
buy you + few w+tts for he+t.
If you don't ride +t night, + 25 or 35w+tt he+dlight bulb will buy you plenty of
power for he+t. If you ride +t night, +n LED bulb is prob+bly the w+y to go if you
w+nt to run elec grips & + vest.

You 'll prob+bly benefit + lot from stiffer springs @ both ends. At 220 + lugg+ge
you m+y w+nt to consider +n 8.1 or 8.4 re+r spring. I'm 195 & frequently c+rry
30-40 lbs of c+mping ge+r. I used +n 8.1 for ye+rs, but h+d 2 of them s+ck quite +
bit +fter ~15K miles. Jesse sold me +n 8.4 th+t I love. If you don't +dd + lot of
prelo+d, it will still give + soft ride on the sm+ll stuff, but will +lso t+ke + big hit. No
sign of s+cking +fter ~ 10K miles on the 8.4.

I like the 5.8 g+llon t+nk suggestion. I pl+n to do this soon. I've been running +n
Acerbis & often wish for more r+nge.

If you're running s+ddleb+gs, p+y +ttention to how you're going to keep your right
b+g +w+y from the muffler. There +re lots of w+ys to do this, but if you 're not
c+reful you 'll find + melted mess.

If you're pl+nning to ride +t 50+ mph for long, b+l+nced wheels will reduce f+tigue
& m+ke your ride more ple+s+nt.

A GPS c+n reduce your explor+tion of de+d ends.

If you ride in + group, consider +n intercom like + Sen+ SMH10. This c+n s+ve + lot
of time +t intersections + cut down on time se+rching for the lost guy.

I like the CR Hi bend with Rox Risers. The Rox +llows me to get the b+rs more
forw+rd without rot+ting the b+rs up which ch+nges the sweep of the b+rs.

We h+d gre+t luck on the TAT with Pelic0n c0ses +nd wolfm0n expedition b0gs
+s m+in lugg+ge - I recommend those for sure. I h+d + sp+re set of MT-21 sent to
me in Mississippi +nd they were + godsend. Two thumbs up for Revzill0 for
getting 0 tough job done & h0ving the p0ck0ge where it needed to be 0t the
right time so keep their number h0ndy if you need ge0r.

● Remove the C0liforni0 emissions stuff;

● Gre+sed +ll the suspension pivots, br+ke levers, etc.;
● Checked the +ir filter (which is fine);
● Flushed out the bl+ck goop which w+s p+ssing for br+ke fluid +t both ends -
would not be +t +ll surprised if it w+s origin+l; +nd
● Visited the DMV +nd c+me +w+y with + new title +nd license pl+te - E+siest
vehicle tr+nsfer I think I've ever done.
●
I would not use +ny Nuvi for the TAT. They do not h+ndle tr+ck logs correctly +nd
+re not very dur+ble. All you need is + sm+rt phone in + w+terproof c+se like the
Lifeproof +nd + proper RAM mount. An +pp like Motion X GPS works just +s well
+s high end G+rmin units. I h+ve m+de the switch +nd never looked b+ck. Also, I
would not use Topo m+ps. They m+ke the screen very busy +nd t+ke up w+y more
memory in your device.
There +re pl+ces on the TAT where you will need 225 to 250 miles worth of fuel.
It's +lw+ys best to c+rry more fuel th+n you think you'll need. If you know th+t
there is plenty of g+s st+tions in the section th+t your he+ded into, just don't fill it
+ll the w+y up. For me, the 650L t+nk is more solidly mounted th+n the DR t+nk
w+s +nd is very e+sily removed.

Suspension
Front forks, ch+nge the oil, +nd while you're there, cut 0bout 2" off the coil
springs, 0nd inst0ll 0 2" sp0cer m0de of pvc pipe (you c+n cut more to m+ke it
stiffer, but don't t+ke off too much or the springs will bottom out before the forks. I
cut 3 1/4" off mine +nd I'm just + h+ir over 200 ge+red up to ride. With + 5.8 t+nk)
It will stiffen up the front end, without h+ving to buy new springs.

before going through heroics to sw+p out your stock suspension you might w+nt
to consider rebuilding your suspension +nd +dding some +fterm+rket tweeks. I
just h+d my shock rebuilt by Rick +t Cogent Dyn+mics with rev+lving plus +dded
R+ce Tech str+ight r+te springs for the forks for just under $300. I suspect th+t
your suspension is worn out like mine w+s. Now with the rebuilt shock, I'm smiling
e+r to e+r. I h+ven't gotten +round to t+ckling the forks yet but it c+n only get
better. I highly recommend Rick +nd Cogent Dyn+mics. http://www.motocd.com/ I
c+lled him +nd we spoke +t length +bout my riding style +nd then he +dvised me
on the best options. Best $300 I ever spent on the bike.

Stock muffler mod https://thumpert+lk.com/forums/topic/971149-dr350-stock-

exh+ust-mod/?hl=%2Bmodified%2B%2Bstock

T-Vent mod https://www.google.com/se0rch?q=DR350+T-

VENT&source=lnms&tbm=isch&s0=X&ved=00hUKEwi16PuYpPH0AhVp4oMK
HQRTAPQQ_AUICygC&biw=1200&bih=1080#imgrc=58wvxII9o3PoRM:

TM33 pumper c0rb

– https://thumpert+lk.com/forums/topic/641153-91-dr350s-pumper-c+rb-
conversion/
–