HLB – The Easiest Way to Create An Emulsion

by K EL LY D OBO S

As a cosmetic chemist you will undoubtedly be asked to make products that require you to
combine materials that aren’t easily compatible.   Fortunately, there is a system that can help you
get started.

Cosmetic Emulsions
Emulsions are one of the most common forms of cosmetic products. You find them in skin
lotions, make-up, and even hair products. By definition an emulsion is a dispersion of two or
more immiscible materials, where one phase, also know as the internal phase, is dispersed in the
continuous or external phase. Cosmetic emulsions are classified as oil in water (O/W), water in oil
(W/O) and water in silicone (W/Si). Multiple emulsions such as oil in water in oil (W/O/W) are
also possible. Oil in water emulsions are the most common due to preferable cost and light skin
feel.

In order to create an oil in water emulsion (one that remains stable for a long enough time), work
must be done to overcome the interfacial tension between the two phases. This can be achieved by
mixing; however mixing even at very high rates is not enough to provide long term stability.  An
emulsifier or combination of emulsifiers is needed to stabilize droplets of the dispersed phase. 
For example, simple oil in vinegar salad dressings will separate rapidly without the use of an
emulsifier like mustard.

Using Surfactants
In this industry, we use surfactants to create emulsions. Surfactants are molecules that have a
hydrophobic (oil soluble) and an effective hydrophilic (water soluble) portion. They act as
emulsifiers by significantly lowering the interfacial tension and decreasing the coalescence of
dispersed droplets.

HLB Formulating
Figuring out what surfactant to use for any specific formula will be a challenge you face as a
cosmetic chemist. There is a great deal of research on surfactants and their behavior. But studying
the thermodynamic equations and phase diagrams associated with surfactants can be a daunting
task, not to mention the number of surfactants available to the formulator is vast. Luckily for us,
William C. Griffin developed a way to streamline the selection of surfactants by utilizing the ratio
of the hydrophobic to the hydrophilic portion of the molecule.  This method is referred to as the
HLB (Hydrophile Lipophile Balance) method. Griffin first presented this method at meeting of
the Chicago Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in 1949 and it is still widely used today.
He published the method shortly there after.1 (A bit of trivia for you, the Chicago Chapter was the
first chapter formed in Society of Cosmetic Chemists)
The HLB method applies to nonionic (uncharged) surfactants but attempts have been made to
broaden the concepts to other surfactant types including silicone surfactants. And using the HLB
system to create emulsions is quite simple. All you have to do is calculate the HLB number of your
surfactant, then the Required HLB for the oil phase and match the two numbers.

Determining the HLB of a surfactant

A typical nonionic emulsifier (e.g. Laureth-4) contains an ethylene oxide groups or polyhydric
alcohol hydrophilic portions with a fatty alcohol hydrophobic portion. The HLB for a nonionic
surfactant can be calculated as follows:

HLB = Weight % Hydrophile/5

Example 1: HLB calculation for Laureth-4

Molecular weight of ethoxylate portion = 176

Molecular weight of lauryl alcohol = 186

Wt. % Hydrophile = (176/(176+186)) x 100 = 48.6%

HLB = 48.6/5 = 9.7

Based on the calculation, surfactants with high HLB values will be more water soluble and those
with low HLB values are more oil soluble. Division by 5 just allows for a compact, easy to use
scale. The calculation is simple, but you won’t usually have to figure it out since most surfactant
HLB values are readily available through literature references and surfactant suppliers.

Calculating HLB of oil phase

Each lipophilic ingredient in the oil phase has its own required HLB. These required HLB values
are determined experimentally, however a method utilizing solubility parameters has been
proposed by Vaughan and Rice.2 Required HLB values for some common oil phase ingredients are
available to the formulator in literature. The Req’d HLB values are approximate and can vary by
about ± 1 unit. It is also important to keep in mind that cosmetic emulsions often have complex
oil phases with several components. The required HLB of an oil phase mixture can be calculated
by first calculating the percent of the oil phase each ingredient contributes. This percentage is
then multiplied by the required HLB for each of those ingredients and the results are summed.
Example 2: Calculation of required HLB for an oil phase mixture
The oil phase is 10% of the total formulation and consists of:

4% Shea butter, 40% of the oil phase. Req’d HLB of 8.

3% Jojoba oil, 30% of the oil phase. Req’d HLB of 6.5.

3% Sunflower seed oil, 30% of the oil phase. Req’d HLB of 7.

Total required HLB:

Shea butter contribution 0.4 x 8 = 3.20

Jojoba oil contribution 0.3 x 6.5 = 1.95

Sunflower oil contribution 0.3 x 7 = 2.10

Total Req’d HLB = 7.25

You can now select emulsifiers to match the required HLB of the oil phase and create an
emulsion. A blend of high and low HLB surfactants is often used to achieve the desired value in
part because of demonstrated effectiveness and efficiencies in packing at the interface. The HLB
for the surfactant blend is calculated in same manner as the required HLB for a blend.

Example 3: Calculation of HLB for a surfactant mixture

The surfactant mixture is a 70/30 blend of Steareth-2 and Steareth-21.

Total HLB:

Steareth-2 contribution 0.7 x 4.9 = 3.43

Steareth-21 contribution 0.3x 15.5 = 4.65

Total HLB = 8.08

In order to match the HLB of a particular oil phase, it is easiest to set up a spreadsheet with the
calculation and vary the percentages of each emulsifier in increments of 5% to find the right ratio.

Limitations of HLB
Although a very useful tool, the HLB system does have some limitations. For example additional
water phase ingredients are not considered but still may impact the stability. The method also
does not provide information as to how much surfactant is needed, but 2 to 4% surfactant is a
good starting point to begin further optimization for stability. So it is important to keep in mind
that the HLB system is not absolute in prediction of your formulations behavior, but a very good
starting point for achieving emulsification.

References
1. Griffin WC; Calculation of HLB Values of Non-Ionic Surfactants, Journal of the Society of
Cosmetic Chemists; 1954. Vol. 5, pp 249-235
2. Vaughan, C.D. Rice, Dennis A.; Predicting O/W Emulsion Stability by the “Required HLB
Equation”; Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology; 1990. Vol. 11 (1), pp 83 – 91.

Tagged as: cosmetic science, emulsions, Formulating, lotions

{ 91 comments… read them below or add one }

masume July 21, 2013 at 1:59 am

Hello

Please email me how I can make silicon emulsion being used to make polish car
dashboard
The name silicone oil, viscosity and emulsifiers that can be used with the method of
making me an email.
best regard
biglar
REPLY

Perry Romanowski July 23, 2013 at 3:01 pm

Hello – this comment is off topic. If you are looking for an answer I’d encourage you to
post it in the cosmetic science discussion board here.

http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk
REPLY

Helen June 12, 2013 at 6:27 am

Dear Kelly,
How can a mixture of petroleum jelly, mineral oil, castor oil and glycerine be emulsified
REPLY

Kelly Dobos June 12, 2013 at 10:43 am

 

Hi Helen,
If you use the HLB method, you must perform the calculations above for your oil phase.
REPLY

Helen June 13, 2013 at 2:33 am

Dear Kelly,
Thank you for the information on HLB method. Do you have a list of required HLB for
cosmetic ingredients
REPLY

Kelly June 14, 2013 at 9:24 am

Sorry, I don’t have a list. But you should be able to easily find values for common
ingredients on the web.

REPLY

maria June 2, 2013 at 11:29 pm

dear kelly,

is the calculation will be the same for multiple emulsion w/o/w. do i have to calculate for
primary w/o first and then for secondary o/w later to get the desired HLB for multiple
emulsion. or it has its own calculation?or i can just use surfactant with necessary value of
HLB for both as there are no mixture of surfactant in both primary and secondary
emulsion. thank you

REPLY
 Kelly June 11, 2013 at 12:50 pm
Hi Maria,
Multiple emulsions can be a little more tricky. I don’t have much experience creating them
but here is the title of an article which you should find helpful.
Multiple W/O/W emulsions-Using the required HLB for emulsifier evaluation.
Authors – Schmidts, T., Dobler, D., Guldan, A.C., Paulus, N., Runkel, F.,
Journal – Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects
REPLY

maria June 11, 2013 at 10:27 pm

thanks kelly for your reply. i really appreciate it. this article is very helpful for me as i’m
now developing a formulation for multiple emulsion for my research studies. thanks
again!

REPLY

sohail khan March 15, 2013 at 3:48 pm

Dear,
I have done several trial & error but finally couldn’t get clear/transparent emulsion.I
donno where the problem is?Required HLB for oils & Hlb of my surfactant all is maintain
somehow in my little knowledge.But still solution become milky/to cloudy.I am trying to
mix some of my essential oil blend like(Tea-tree,thyme, eucalyptus,cardamom,
cinnamon,spearmint)to purified water to get a clear solution without using any alcohol.
But always my solution become milky even oil & water mixed properly.Could anyone
suggest some way to come out form the error?
REPLY

Perry Romanowski March 18, 2013 at 8:24 pm

I would suggest you post this question to the forum as you might receive more
responses. http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk
REPLY

Armando February 12, 2013 at 11:22 am

Could you tell me how to calculate the required HLB for menthol and for peppermint and
spearmint oils.

Thanks,

REPLY

Kelly February 13, 2013 at 9:45 am

You can search for published values or determine experimentally. To determine
experimentally you would prepare emulsions with surfactant blends from high to low
HLB values and the one that is most stable would assigned as the required HLB.

REPLY

hasani February 7, 2013 at 11:33 am

dear kelly
thanks for your guidance .i do that……
any one can help to me?
REPLY

hasni February 6, 2013 at 10:24 am

dear kelly:
can you answer to me?
my problem is about making a stable emulsion w/o
oil is vaseline and system HLBis about 7.35
thanks for your guidance .
REPLY

Kelly February 6, 2013 at 12:34 pm

hasni,
You will have to determine determine the right emulsifier system experimentally.
REPLY

hasani February 6, 2013 at 4:49 am

i want to make a stable emulsion from water(that some salts are solved in it)and
vaseline(petroleum jelly)
which kind of emulsifier is suitable for it?i use of GMS but it was separated after some
minute,however is it posible that after solidification of cream and remelting it i have a
permanent emulsion?
REPLY

Kate January 28, 2013 at 2:45 pm

So… if you calculate the required HLB of an Oil Phase and the result is around 3-8, the
emulsion will be an w/o.
And if you calculate the required HLB of an oil Phase and the resulst i 9 or above, the
emulsion will be an o/w.
Is this true???

REPLY

Rina December 19, 2012 at 6:44 am

What type of emulsifier can replace PGPR in emulsion that is added to the oil at 0.1%

REPLY

Perry December 27, 2012 at 8:24 am

That’s not enough information about the formula to give you a credible answer.

REPLY

Rina December 27, 2012 at 9:17 am

Water soluble material is disolved in 24% water. 10% PGPR is added to the oil phase. this
emulsion at 0.1% will be added to the oil.

REPLY

Kelly December 27, 2012 at 9:23 am

Try alternate low HLB emulsifiers. You can find HLB values for a range of surfactants just
by searching online.

REPLY
Wesley November 27, 2012 at 12:03 pm
I have some questions to grit or small particulate that will go away upon a little rubbing in
the final product. Would this be a for of flake that is a fall out in the emulsion or is this a
solid particle film that could be forming in a formula?

We are currently using polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate as well as glycerin.

Oils: Mineral Oil, Cream Petro, Synthetic Beeswax which accounts for about 50% and
then water is approximately 30%. Any help/insight would be greatly appreciated!
REPLY

Faiz November 24, 2012 at 9:39 am

Dear
I want to make an emulsion of Menthol and eucalyptus oil in water. Please suggest me
some solution.
Thanks
REPLY

AK November 11, 2012 at 9:44 am

Hi

I would like to make a sprayable sunflower oil emulsion. What emuslifier should I use and
in what proportion? Thanks

REPLY

Chalie C October 10, 2012 at 11:05 pm

Dear Kelly,
Could you kindly help me in how to make a stable silicon emulsion and a stearic acid
emulsion using a 2 stage homogenizer?
Thanks in advance and congratulations for your article.
Charlie C.
REPLY

scarroll September 2, 2012 at 4:42 pm

How to get an o/w emulsion?
If oil phase HLB required is 7.2, and you ad a high HLB emulsifier (15.5) and and low
 HLB emulsifier (4.4) in a ratio that is 7.2, what type of emulsion do you get? I thought
unless HLB was > 10 (or there abouts) that you’d get a w/o
REPLY

Kelly Dobos September 4, 2012 at 11:53 am

 

You are correct, lower HLB surfactants (4-6) are W/O emulsifiers but other formulation
factors like the size of the oil phase can effect formula type. You can simply test what type
you have by trying to dilute the final product with water. A W/O does not dilute while a
O/W would/

REPLY

Cindy August 8, 2012 at 3:08 pm

I need to a sprayable oil-in-water. My oil, soy bean oil, has a HLB of 7. I have tried soy
lecithin (HLB =7) and still had major separation. Any ideas on any other emulsifiers I can
use?
Thanks1
REPLY

Kelly August 9, 2012 at 10:26 am

Hi Cindy,
Keep in mind that it best to use a high HLB and low HLB in combination to match the
required HLB. Also the level of emulsifier may need to be inceased.
REPLY

Organic Herbs August 3, 2012 at 4:05 am

 

I find it so encouraging that I’m not the only human out there over the age of 20 who
doesn’t know any of this!
Time to learn *about all of it*.
REPLY

Alia sina April 9, 2012 at 4:30 am

 

Hi there, i have aproblem in mixing jojoba oil & glycerin using Tween 80 at 8% & span 8o
at12 % the emulsion separate , did Iuse the right emulsifier or the % is wrong please
repply & many thanks
REPLY

Kelly April 10, 2012 at 12:32 pm

While it looks like your HLB is balanced, that’s quite a lot of emulsifier. Start with 2 to 4%.
Also, is glycerin the only component of your external phase? If so the HLB method may
not be a good predictor for stability.

REPLY

George p April 2, 2012 at 4:44 pm

Hi all
I want to ask if there is any negative effect of using too much emulsifier in a water in oil
cream( except for paying more money)
I mean can excess emulsifiers cause instability???

One of my experiments has shown that using 3% of sorbitan sesquioleate is less stable
than using 2% !!!!

Can any one answer or guide me?

Second, I want to ask about cooling phase, should it be done in very cold water bath and
done quickly or it is better to cool the cream slowly !!!

Please help me ?

Thanks in advance

George

REPLY

solomon April 2, 2012 at 11:55 am

Hi all,
i want to create different conditions and substrates for biosurfactant production by a
Bacillus subtilis strain. How do i determine the HLB value of the biosurfactants that will
be produced?
REPLY

Kelly Dobos April 2, 2012 at 12:34 pm

 

You would need to know the structure of your surfactant, and keep in mind, HLB applies
to ethoxylated nonionic surfactants. I’m not familiar with biosurfactant structures, so I
don’t know whether the HLB method applies.

REPLY

Dennis A April 2, 2012 at 12:46 pm

You can make some VERY approximate estimates by observing solubility in water as
follows:

Dispersability HLB Range

None in water 1-4
Poor 3-6
Milky w/ vigorous agitation 6-8
Stable milky dispersion 8-10
Translucent 10-13
Clear solution 13+
(copied without permission from ICI publication “The HLB System”)

REPLY

Kelly Dobos April 2, 2012 at 12:49 pm

 

Whoa! You have an old ICI publication? I’m jealous.

REPLY

sajida March 28, 2012 at 5:09 am

i want to know which emulsifiers aresuitable to dissolve perraffin in silicone/water
emulsion.as perraffin oils are non polar so kindly do guid me?

REPLY
phum February 28, 2012 at 6:49 am
Hello,George
How can I make an easiest way to make an emulsifier?
P.S.I want the answer fastest as you can.

Phum

REPLY

Geo February 28, 2012 at 1:08 pm

hey phum … would u please explain ur question more … sorry for that but i didn’t get the
question to answer u !

REPLY

Abbasi December 28, 2011 at 5:50 am

Thanks so much.
I want to ask one question:
How i can prepare an EC of mineral oil(raw liquid parrafin oil)?I know some emulsifiers
can use for it but with high using level(about 8%-10 %).I want to use a suitable emusifier
with lower usage than it.
regards
Abbasi
REPLY

George November 28, 2011 at 8:33 am

hey all …

I want to prepare the following formula:

1- 40 g vaseline

2- 40 g water
3- 8 g emulsifier ( i shose Span 60″sorbitan monostearate, HLB = 4.7 and tween 60, hlb =
14.9): 7 g span 60 + 1 g tween 60)

i heated to 70 for the oily phase and 73 for the water phase ..

i mixed with a large stirring around 3000 RPM…

the emulsion created is great .. but it lack the stability in 50 C

CAN ANYONE OF U EXPLAIN !!! alghough i balanced the HLB !!

REPLY

Kelly Dobos November 28, 2011 at 9:34 am

 

Hi George,
By the looks of it you are trying to create a w/o formulation. These are very tricky
formulations to produce with only ethoxylated emulsifiers. Typically, waxes are added to
the oil phase to help stbailize these types of emulsions and homogenization is a must. You
may want to adjust your oil phase by adding oils with higher required HLBs and try
making a o/w emulsion before attempting a w/o with this method.
REPLY

George November 29, 2011 at 12:15 am

hi Kelly .. .first i would like to thank u for this quick response

i know that it is better to put some waxes… but i felt that the cream is thick enough due to
the large amount of SPAN 60 WAX …
still i don’t want to do O/W cream.. inversely, i’m insisting on W/O creams… if u can help
me in this .. because till now none of my formulas was stable at 50 Centigrate for more
than 48 hours …( the oily phase begine to separate !!!! )
thanks a lot in advance kelly

REPLY

kelly November 29, 2011 at 9:50 am

 Hi George
You are probably going to have to do some research on stabilizing these types of formulas
and other ingredients you can use. Good luck with your formulation. -Kelly
REPLY

Clive August 19, 2011 at 10:48 pm

 

My own view is that making successful emulsions is more of an art than a science. My first
emulsion, looking back on it, was actually a butter: it contained 25% lipids, of which 15%
was shea. It had a salmon colour because of the green tea extract in it. I thought it was a
failure, but got demands to make more from test customers who really loved it. More
lately I’ve been more into using desert plant bioactives.

REPLY

Saravanan August 17, 2011 at 9:14 am

How to test the stability of emulsion

REPLY

Perry August 17, 2011 at 9:16 am

Saravanan – see our blog post about stability testing.

REPLY

DP Mainali July 8, 2011 at 6:38 am

 

HLB value is a usefull tool but chances of product unsafety…

REPLY

muhammad June 21, 2011 at 5:46 am

i want understand but i cant ,some one tell me?

REPLY

Perry June 21, 2011 at 6:54 am

Muhammad,
Your question is too vague to answer.
REPLY

Kelly June 20, 2011 at 8:14 am

1) Simple mixing with an impeller blade is all that is need to perform the testing.
2) As mentioned above, there is no method for calculating the quantity of surfactants
needed. You must determine the quantity experimentally.
3) In general, you slowly add the expected internal phase to the expected external phase. I
do not have a formal procedure to share.
4) In general, the external phase should account for >= 26% of the total composition for
traditional emulsions based on geometrical consideration of hexagonally packed spheres.
REPLY

BALASAHEB June 20, 2011 at 1:31 am

Dear kelly, I just want to know the process of how to make different w/o and o/w
emulsions of organic solvents like toluene, hexane, benzene, cyclo hexane etc.. but my
problem is that 1) how to set up apparatus for emulsions preparation?
2) how to calculate required qty of surfactant ?
3) what will be mode of addition of compounds ie water phase first or oil phase first….pls
give me experimental procdure if possible. 4) I want some std qties for w/o and o/w
emulsions of organic solvents as oil phase?
expecting kind reply
REPLY

Kelly May 17, 2011 at 5:56 am

Dear Jagat,
You must experimentally determine you required HLB as mentioned about by observing
stability with the oil phase and various surfactant combinations to achieved different HLB
values. We cannot help until you have done this.
REPLY

jagat jyoti sahu May 17, 2011 at 12:27 am

sir good morning
i am taking 35% oil and formulating by taking tween 80 and span 80..i am geting the
emulsification aftera week its geting separated . so kindly guide me to sucess my project
REPLY

jagat jyoti sahu May 16, 2011 at 12:00 am

sir good morning
sir i have read your all suggestion,its very impressive. sir actually iam taking 40%
essential oil and rest is water and excipient.so please guide me to formulate the cream.
hope i wil get some detail idea.yours faithfully
REPLY

Perry May 13, 2011 at 5:49 am

@Jagat – I would suggest you post your question to the cosmetic science forum to see if
someone there can answer it for you.
REPLY

jagat jyoti sahu May 13, 2011 at 12:07 am

sir please help me to my above question

REPLY

Perry May 13, 2011 at 5:46 am

@Jagat – thank you for your questions. Unfortunately, we do not have the protocol or
information you seek.

REPLY

Kelly May 11, 2011 at 3:57 pm

Hi Alicia,
I would use glyceryl stearate, lecithin can have some draw backs with stability my opinion.
7% emulsifiers seems like a high starting point even for your large oil phase. I would place
range of emulsifier levels on stability to determine an optimum level. -Kelly
REPLY

alicia May 9, 2011 at 11:53 pm

So I’m thinking to do a blend of 40/60 stearic acid and glyceryl stearate:
40% x HLB 15 = 6
60% x HLB 4 = 2.4 = total 8.4 to match my recipe’s HLB requirement (total HLB of all the
ingredients in my oil phase)
I saw a rough ratio of 7:1 (oil phase: emulsifier) recommended somewhere in the archives
here.. which would mean I require approx 7% total emulsifiers as my oil phase makes up
49% of the total formulation

Would you please confirm am I on the right track with these calcs?

REPLY

alicia May 9, 2011 at 10:24 pm

Thank you Kelly for your response, much appreciated!
I am using stearic acid and/ or stearyl alcohol for the high HLB component. From a
formulator’s point of view would you recommend glyceryl stearate OR hydrogenated
lecithin for the lower value surfactant?
trying to go “nature-identical” as much as possible with the products..but saying that
would very much like to get the texture beautiful and stable!
REPLY

Kelly May 9, 2011 at 4:38 pm

Hi Alicia,
You are correct, you would need a combination of low and high HLB surfactants to
emulsify using the HLB system. Or you can try creating soap based emulsion by
neutralizing the stearic acid with a base like triethanolamine. -Kelly
REPLY

alicia May 9, 2011 at 12:53 am

I’m just learning about the HLB system and have been trying to perfect the texture of a
cream. It has equal proportion of water to oil, has a little grittiness and just a small
amount of water separating out. Have done all calculations and come to a total required
HLB of 8.36…
And now to select the emulsification system. Would you mind clarifying how I would
achieve this with using what I have access to: Stearic acid and stearyl alcohol, both with
HLB around 15? Do I need to combine with a low HLB value emulsifier like lecithin (4)?
Thanks for your advice!
REPLY
jagat jyoti sahu April 17, 2011 at 11:58 pm
sir would you like to give me the protocol if u have , how to proceed further for the
determination of hlb of some essential oils. if u have some research article then plz send
me some of them so that i can proceed further with u r guidance.
regards jagat jyoti sahu
waiting for u r reply
REPLY

Kelly April 15, 2011 at 9:51 am

Jagat,
You would run accelerated stability testing with varying levels of emulsifier while holding
the oil phase the same.
REPLY

jagat jyoti sahu April 15, 2011 at 1:08 am

how we can determine it by experimentally

REPLY

jagat jyoti sahu April 15, 2011 at 1:08 am

what is the protocol to determine the level of emulsifier

REPLY

Kelly April 14, 2011 at 9:15 am

Jagat,
As noted above, the appropriate level of emulsifier will be determined experimentally.
REPLY

jagat jyoti sahu April 14, 2011 at 6:18 am

ok but i want to know the percentage of emulsifier to be used

REPLY

Kelly March 23, 2011 at 6:43 pm

Hello Jagat,
You will need to experimentally determine the required HLB for your oil. You create
emulsions with a combination of high and low HLB emulsifier at varied ratios but the
same total concentration to test different HLBs. The required HLB is then taken from the
emulsion that remains most stable.
REPLY

Carol JK December 29, 2011 at 8:29 am

Hi Kelly, yes, i understand what you meant.

Just wonder how to interpret/decide which emulsion remains the most stable? I have set
the surfactant to be 3% (parenteral formulation).

Then, all the resulting emulsion seems to be the same. Separation of oil and water has
taken place. The oil will immediately float back to above after i shaken the emulsion
(although the oil did dispersed into the water when i shaked the emulsion at 1st).
However, i do see droplets of oil. They do not aggregate to form a bigger droplets. Should i
just proceed with other surfactant? Because the same situation has taken place for the 3rd
kind of surfactant’s mixture. Thanks for the advice. =)

REPLY

jagat jyoti sahu March 23, 2011 at 8:43 am

i want to know how to calculate the hlb value of cetronella oil.but first point is selection of
surfactant.but how we wil select surfactant. we have oil percentage around 83 and water
the rest. so kindly tel me on what basis i wil select the surfactant blend

REPLY

Kelly February 20, 2011 at 4:13 pm

Hi Nancy,
There are no rules on how much emulsifier you need , a good starting point is 2%. Placing
various levels on accelerated stability testing can help you to select the optimum level for a
particular oil phase.
REPLY
nancy February 20, 2011 at 1:56 pm
Hi again Kelly, and thank you one more time 

Just like you said i couldent find many.

Id like to aske you if there is any rules in how much emulusifer i should use.
Thanks again!
Nancy
REPLY

Kelly February 19, 2011 at 2:42 pm

Hi Nancy,
There aren’t many published values for W/O required HLBs, this maybe due to the reason
that most cosmetic formulators favor O/W due to cost, ease of stabilization, etc. You may
be able to find some if you search for a specific oil and it’s required HLB in W/O systems.
Hope this helps!
REPLY

nancy February 19, 2011 at 1:51 pm

Thank you for your answer.I do not know what Bancroft rule is but i will look it up.I
wonder if you know a site with the HLB value of o/w and w/o emulsions.

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Kelly February 19, 2011 at 1:32 pm

Hi Nancy,
That’s a great question! The HLB for oils in O/W vs. W/O is different. Low HLB
emulsifiers are used to create W/O formulations, and following the Bancroft Rule the
phase in while the emulsifier is most soluble constitutes the continuous phase. So is the
emulsifier HLB is low, it would be matched to an oil phase with a low required HLB. For
example in O/W mineral has a required HLB around 10 and for W/O it is closer to 5.
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nancy February 19, 2011 at 6:44 am

hello i am making a project about HLB and i would like to know the hlb value of oils is the
same for o/w and w/o emulsions..
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Kelly February 18, 2011 at 1:37 pm

Hello Jagat,
You need a required HLB for oils. Required HLB is not calculated but determined
experimentally by using a range of emulsifiers with differing HLB values.
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jagat jyoti sahu February 18, 2011 at 1:00 am

please tel me how to calculate the hlb value of volatile oil like geranium oil .

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Usman November 19, 2010 at 8:14 am

 

Please guide us , We want to make silicone emulsion shinning polish

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Anup November 17, 2010 at 10:18 am

for vegetable base oil phase which PEG free emulsifier is best
percentage is about 35 to 40.
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Kelly October 6, 2010 at 12:12 pm

Bill,
The HLB system is still a great tool for the formulator and one the I use frequently. The
beauty is in the ease with which it can be used. As a big enthusiast of cosmetic science, it’s
an honor to hear from you! Thanks so much, Kelly
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Kelly October 6, 2010 at 12:05 pm

Glyceryl stearate SE contains a small amount of a monovalent soap such as potassium or
sodium stearate.

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shivraj October 6, 2010 at 12:40 am
What is the defferrence between glyceryl monosterate
and glyceryl monostearate self emulsifyig
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shivraj October 6, 2010 at 12:28 am

I want to make water in oil formulation
how can we calculate the HLB for w/o
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Bill Griffin May 9, 2010 at 8:51 pm

Kelly Dobos,

Dennis’ comments are a bit amusing in one sense of the word because slide rules were still
in use then. Yes, we recognized some of the faults of the system and these were outlined in
my thesis for a Master’s Degree in 1955 which, of course, was not published.

It was my unimaginable pleasure to wander through a current emulsion innovation lab at

the Croda plant a year or so ago and the advances on all sides was amazing beyond belief.
Of course, the truly amazing thing is that the basic premise is still being used and taught
so long after its development. Doubly impressive since my retirement happened thirty-
one years ago.

Cheers, and may you have as much fun as has been my good fortune in life – and without
scads of money.

Bill (HLB) Griffin

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Dennis July 6, 2009 at 1:18 pm

 

I know what I’m going to say here is provocative and sacrilegious, but this whole system
seems somewhat antiquated and akin to the slide rule. I think modern formulation
requires more flexibility and has available to it more effective tools. Using DOE and
polymeric emulsifiers we can create better products faster and discover more unexpected
combinations than using these HLB calculations, which don’t account for formula
 aesthetics or product perception. Even using this system it’s still an iterative process to
achieve the look and feel of the product you want.

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Perry July 7, 2009 at 4:15 pm

Certainly, you make an excellent point. There are more rigorous ways of making an
emulsion. But this kind of background information is still useful in concept and the
method (while antiquated) can still be used effectively.

Read more at http://chemistscorner.com/hlb-the-easiest-way-to-create-an-emulsion/#Gijf7EpRTeqq40zY.99