Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Measurement: part 1
Manual Measurement
T he path geometry that appears to conform so very well to the buds is discussed
in full elsewhere1,2. In this section, we deal with the practical application of that
geometry to real buds—or, at any rate, to photographs of them. We discuss what
measurements need to be taken, how to take them, and the difficulties that attend taking
them. We assume that our bud images are suited to the measurement process and of
sufficient quality for it, as set out in the section on Observation.
We will in the first place be concerned with a bud’s profiles. We will want
to know whether or not—and if, then how well—the path geometry conforms to these
profiles.
We usually speak of the vertices at the tip and base of the bud as the “Poles”: one
of these (and either at will) may be thought of as a “source”, and the other as a “sink”, as
if the path curve were arising from one, proceeding along the bud’s profile, and
disappearing into the other3.
The path is set by measures and we want to find them, but before we set
about doing so, we must first be reasonably confident that we have properly placed the
poles, and when we come to attempt it, we at once find that we have a problem.
2
In general, it is fairly evident where the top, or high, pole should go. The tips of
most buds are usually well-defined, and easy to locate with precision, so we can for the
most part be rather sure of where to put the high pole. The same is not true of the base
of the bud! The bud attaches there to its stem, or twig, and it is seldom easy to tell where
the bud stops and the twig begins.
One approach is to select a “likely looking” place for the low pole on the bud,
then stick to it.
That is, we accept that the chosen place is probably not the “correct” one, but we suppose
that it is “not too far” from it—and we keep it there from photo to photo, day to day.
In adopting this approach, we are in effect deciding that we are more
interested in the variation with time of our results than in their
perfect precision, and our method reflects our supposition that we
will see this variation best if we keep the Inter-Pole Distance (IPD) as
constant as we can.
Once we have our marks we are nearly in a position to take our measurements. We
want to measure the whole widths of the bud at the marked heights, at right angles to the
line joining the poles—but how are we to lay off the right angle? We use a graduated set
square and a straight edge. The technique is as follows:
Lay the straight edge on the image,
approximately parallel to the axis if the
bud, and so that the entire bud remains
in view.
Place the set square against the
straight edge, then, on the horizontal,
graduated edge of the set square, locate
a graduation mark close to the bud
axis.
Slide the set square back and forth
along the straight edge and, while
doing so, adjust the position of the
straight edge until the graduation mark selected above is seen to run exactly
along the bud axis—at which moment the straight edge will be
accurately parallel to, and the graduated edge of the set square will be
accurately at right angles to the chosen bud axis, and we can take our
measurements.
While holding the straight edge firmly in the place found for it, move the
set square to a height mark.
Note (that is, measure) where the left and right profiles of the bud
intersect the set square at that height.
Subtract the lesser measurement from the greater. This is the whole
width of the bud at that height.
Remembering to hold the straight edge firmly in place, repeat the
previous three steps for all the height marks.
When all the height marks have been visited in this fashion, we will have our list of bud
widths, and can go on to do the path curve calculations based upon them.
The accuracy of our measurements is chiefly affected by the degree of enlargement of
the photographs, or print-outs: clearly, the enlargement should be as great as practically
possible. But the choice of unit is a factor, too, and that choice is affected by personal
preference! Some prefer to use inches, and tenths-of-inches. Others prefer to use
millimetres. Those using inches report that they can measure to plus or minus about two
hundredths of an inch: those using millimetres say that they manage plus or minus around
one tenth of a millimetre.
4