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    23 views8 pages

    Time Saving Building Techniques

    Uploaded by

    ORLANDO CASTILLO

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    of 8

    “The cleaner and less

    cluttered your workspace, the


    better,” says Bob Downie.

    TIME-SAVING
    building techniques
    Build models better and faster with these tips › by BOB DOWNIE

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    2 Scale Auto › BOB DOWNIE’S BUILDING TIPS


    Each model is different. It’s a good idea to sit down with the There are several styles of food dehydrators to help speed up drying
    instruction manual and with your own ideas of how you plan to build time. Use a thermometer to make sure it doesn’t go over 110 degrees.
    and detail it. I often make a checklist that I can follow; this helps keep If it does, you’ll need to open up the airflow with spacers or vents. My
    me focused, which saves time during the build. personal dehydrator is a simple one that works via convection like the
    one shown on the far left; no fan, no motors, and the heat stays below
    110 degrees.

    Dehydrators come with a series of internal trays. These are generally The main use of dehydrators is for drying bodies, but they’re also good
    rather shallow; you can cut the centers out of extra trays to gain more for warming paint/bodies, and also after decals have been applied, or
    height. drying other parts and subassemblies. Primer and putty work also
    benefit from time inside a dehydrator. For every 10 degrees above
    ambient temperature, a dehydrator cuts drying time in half.

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    B O B D O W N I E ’ S B U I L D I N G T I P S ›www.ScaleAutoMag.com 3
    I use super glue on the majority of parts. You can This is a handy applicator; take a common This is the needle applicator, made by Xuron.
    glue together parts that have paint without spray bottle of accelerator, and replace the It comes with a small bottle, but I only use the
    having to scrape. You get a nearly immediate spray cap with a needle cap. This allows a needle, cap seal, and the top that screws in
    bond by using kicker (accelerator), and it precise drop of accelerator to be applied to place, holding it all together on the original
    reduces or eliminates potential fogging. This the model during assembly. bottle of accelerator.
    combination has allowed me to save countless
    hours of time.

    You can make fast work of assembly by test- The part that you are moving into place gets If you don’t have a needle-point applicator,
    fitting the part, and when you are ready to aligned and placed; carefully apply a drop of use the spray bottle – not to spray accelerator
    glue it permanently, apply a drop or seam of accelerator, and it’s done. onto the part, but to soak a cotton swab. Soak
    super glue onto the stationary surface that the swab before wiping it on the part you are
    you are gluing another part to. gluing in place.

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    4 Scale Auto › BOB DOWNIE’S BUILDING TIPS


    Put a drop or bead of glue on the stationary part, and then apply the Superglue filling is achieved by applying superglue along with an
    swabbed-with-accelerator part into place. Align the parts; you have a accelerator on small or shallow sink marks or pinholes. You are able to
    few seconds of working time (test-fit beforehand to know how easily immediately sand the area smooth. The sink marks on this body will be
    the parts go together). filled with superglue as the filler; the surrounding surfaces are flat.

    This body has a separate end cap and a filler piece to the rear spoiler The end cap was glued in place with a generous application of gap-
    to be glued in place and the seams filled and removed. This is easily filling super glue.
    accomplished with superglue and accelerator. The key is to apply the
    glue and sand the parts immediately, in less than an hour, as they are
    roughly the same density. After an hour, the super glue will tend to be
    harder than the plastic surrounding it.

    After applying accelerator, the end cap is now fully molded to the body, The rear wing filler has been added, a generous bead of glue applied
    now ready for primer, after about 15 minutes of work from start to over the seam and a few drops of accelerator were added to
    finish. If there are any gaps, repeat the process until smooth. immediately cure the glue.

    B O B D O W N I E ’ S B U I L D I N G T I P S ›www.ScaleAutoMag.com 5
    The rear wing has been sanded completely smooth, ready for primer, in Evercoat two-part catalyzed glazing and spot putty is a standard
    23 minutes, and that included time to set up and shoot the photos. among modelers. If you use smaller quantities, consider getting Bondo
    Professional Glazing & Spot Putty. It comes in a smaller tube and costs
    considerably less, and you may be able to use the entire container
    before it dries out.

    When mixed with catalyst, these putties cure fast. You only have a The putty is applied sparingly to the holes in this body.
    minute or two to work with the putty, so mix it sparingly and apply in
    small areas. You’ll be able to sand the putty in roughly 15 minutes.

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    6 Scale Auto › BOB DOWNIE’S BUILDING TIPS


    In a couple of minutes, the putty has “kicked” and although it’s no After 30 minutes or so, the putty is cured enough for sanding.
    longer spreadable, it is in a temporary “green” phase that allows you Traditional putties that cure by evaporation would easily take
    to slice off excess putty to lessen sanding time. overnight to dry, and would continue to shrink after sanding – perhaps
    not even being noticeable for months.

    Automotive sandable (lacquer) primer comes in a variety of colors. Automotive primer will work, and you can purchase hobby-sized bottles
    Tamiya primers come in gray or black, and are noted for their of primer and sealer from MCW, and several grades of very smooth “Mr.
    extremely fine spray and smooth surface compared to automotive Surfacer” from GSI/Creos, and Tamiya primer. These mix with their own
    primers. thinners, apply nicely through your airbrush, and dry quickly.

    There are a number of sources of automotive-grade paint for hobby There are good hobby-shop spray paints that are lacquer-based for
    use. MCW sells a variety of lacquer-based colors, as does Black Gold, quick drying. Testor’s and Tamiya offer a range of colors and clears
    which offer real House Of Kolor paints in hobby-sized containers. Use that apply easily and dry quickly. Tamiya makes compounds that are
    thinners specified by the manufacturer. These lacquer colors dry formulated for its paint, making quick work of buffing them to a shine
    rapidly, especially when applied in thin coats through your airbrush. with minimal wet-sanding or polishing.

    B O B D O W N I E ’ S B U I L D I N G T I P S ›www.ScaleAutoMag.com 7
    Unless it’s going to be a full-blown contest build, I often group parts by Here I’ve exploited the assembly-line style of painting two models’
    color and do much of the painting with detail parts still attached to the worth of semigloss black paint, all shot at one time.
    sprues. I clip trees, do some part cleanup, and group pieces by colors
    to be painted. I often prepare more than one model at a time, thus
    saving setup and cleanup time when airbrushing.

    I group parts and subassemblies for the parts being painted with Interior parts are grouped together as well, these two projects being
    Metalizers. With my precise gravity-feed airbrush, I’m able to add and shot at the same time in the same shade of red.
    shoot small quantities of Alclad colors. I shoot one color, empty the
    reservoir, shoot the remaining paint until just air flows from the brush,
    then add another color and go. These parts for two models only took
    about 15 minutes to set up, shoot, and clean up.

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    8 Scale Auto › BOB DOWNIE’S BUILDING TIPS


    Another benefit of assembly-line building is painting multiple bodies Not all detail-painting requires the use of a bottle and brush. Sharpies
    the same time in the same color. are a part of my detailing supplies, and are used in nearly every build –
    not just because of time savings, but because of general quality.

    A silver Sharpie is a fine-tipped paint marker. Using a chisel-tip Sharpie and the right I haven’t “painted” red or amber taillight
    The paint quality is good, and it dries quickly. pressure, you can easily “paint” this lenses in years. I used to use Tamiya acrylic
    You can use it to paint small items such as windshield detail. It takes several passes, but transparent red and orange bottle paints, and
    shifter stalks, turn-signal stalks, or pick out is so quick and precise that it precludes the although they will dry reasonably fast in a
    raised interior, underhood, or chassis detail as need for time-consuming masking. I use dehydrator, Sharpies are a simpler, better
    seen here. It’s fast, clean, and nobody can tell precut masks on the kits that have them, but solution. Apply several coats for maximum
    you didn’t mess up your paintbrush. it almost seems like cheating to get great, depth of color. Sharpie orange is a bit dark; I
    quick results with a Sharpie. have a Prismacolor “Bittersweet” marker that
    is great for amber.

    Research pays dividends at the end; my Internet search for photos In a month-and-a-half, using the techniques outlined in this article, I
    gave me the reference I needed, along with the instructions to get a was able to get this trio of models built: the Mazda 767B just-for-fun
    great finish on this Lamborghini. The Internet saves hours of time for Le Mans, and the other two for reviews.
    combing through or searching for printed reference.

    B O B D O W N I E ’ S B U I L D I N G T I P S ›www.ScaleAutoMag.com 9

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