RSP Q&A Sessions - Painting

Rinaldi Studio
March 30, 2018 ·
RSP Q&A SESSION #5

AIRBRUSHING
The 5th RSP Q&A session is now open from 12 Noon - 2PM (PDT, West
Coast US).
Please ask any and all questions related to airbrushing -- thinning, tools,
paints, etc. -- everything starts with the paint job. (Post photos of your
work to help me answer questions).
This is intended to be a technique discussion. Please keep it on point,
not interested in historical accuracy to any real degree with this. The
intent is to expand the knowledge base, clarify skill development issues,
and to help me target areas I need to better explain, both here, and in
future books.
The more you ask, the better this will be! Also, we can circle back around
to the same topic in later sessions, so this won't be the only time I focus
on airbrushing.
Thank you! Michael, RSP
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All Comments
Comment as Rinaldi Studio
Author
Rinaldi Studio Thank you guys, another good session, if not a
little quieter probably because of the holiday weekend.
I think next week I will switch up the day and time to get other
modelers around the world the chance to participate too. Have a
great weekend and happy modeling!
7
Like · Reply · 1y
BJ DeBekker Have you tried those new Needle Sharpeners

and/or used one.
I am still ole school and keep a few spare needles around for the
occasional oops. But wondering if they are worth it. especially in
a emergency.
1
Like · Reply · Message · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio I have no experience with them honestly. I
always keep spare needles and nozzles per AB on hand.
When I insert a needle back in the rear, I always lay on my

fingertip first, needle tip slightly behind the fingertip, rest
my finger against the rear opening, then guide the needle
in the hole -- I never try to just eyeball the needle tip into
the hole like I'm trying to thread the needle with string, my
ands aren't that steady. This saves a lot of tip damage
headaches.
1
Like · Reply · 1y · Edited
Trevan Rose What do u think is the best combination of paint,

air pressure, proximity to model to achieve fine camo lines on
tanks and planes? Am using Tamiya hg airbrush with a .3mm
nozzle
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio For me, when I want fine camo lines it's
always done very close to the model with really low psi.
and with over-thinned paint. Any brand can be used to do
this, and before Mission Models, I used paints thinned
with lacquer thinner, which is the fan fav today. (I don't
spray lacquers anymore for health reasons). But the
general rule applies, regardless of brand/type of paint.
Page 2 of 11
I'd have the model nearby, and a test piece (that is NOT
paper), you need to see it on plastic. If a paint sprays
normally at 20-30% thinning, up it to 50-50. If 50-50 IS
the normal, up it 60-70% thinned, which should allow you
to spray at 10-12psi from 1-2" away from the surface. You
need to run tests, then get it on the model -- trust me, or
be highly experienced with this form of painting to just do
it straight on.
Fine lines are slow progressive work, you need to be a
master to do these fast with any real control, or to follow a
specific pattern. It might take a few sessions of painting to
achieve a full camo pattern, like say a German night
fighter, etc.
6
Trevan Rose Thanks so much for your reply!

1
Reply as Rinaldi Studio
AaronKuck Armor Any tips or tricks that you have on using

Mission Models paint? What ratios do you use to mix and do you
use the poly additive?
I really like the paint, but feel I am not at 100% yet at getting the
most out of it.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I find it interesting some modelers are not
seeing how good these new paints are.
I should mention for clarity, most of you already know this,

I do the graphics and some initial product development
with them. I worked at Mission Models store back in
2004-5, so I am friends and had a small hand in their early
development. Today I help with color choices on the back
end, but it's very minimal.
That said, overcoming the desire to use another thinner
with them is probably the most important issue I've
targeted. Just buy their thinner and use it. The concept of
forcing another brand to make work, usually associated
with I have this brand on hand, or used this thinner for
years, or saving a few dollars, etc. has stymied MM use, or
cause issues of what I perceive to be a mental issue rather
than a real product issue.
It's super easy, and honestly, I've yet to have any problems
with them. I add 20-30% MM thinner and that's it. My psi
is basically the same I've always used with all the other
brands, 15-20psi for most operations. Fine detail line
work, I up the thinning and lower my psi to 10-12psi. Other
than that I do nothing special.
And like I've mentioned above, I use an AB just for their
paints only. I don't spray other paints through it. And vice
versa, not mixing paint brands into one AB will solve a lot
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versa, not mixing paint brands into one AB will solve a lot
of problems.
Re. the Poly Additive, yes, with the Gundam model in
particular because the Poly will give you a satin sheen
when sprayed correctly. This idea is well suited for these
subjects, and aircraft and automotive application where
smoothy semi-shiny surfaces are needed. (in fact, done
right, you can decal directly onto the paint and skip the
first gloss varnish step).
I personally like my armor more matte, so don't use the

Poly much with them, unless I want a sheen to separate it
from the matte areas (modern British armor is perfect for
this). The Poly turns the MM paint into a polyurethane and
that will dry to an exceptionally hard paint surface, so it
has a lot of value for any project that needs that.
2
BJ DeBekker Rinaldi Studio More of a request then a

question since you advise on colors.. A Dark red Brown
Prime.. The color of Old Metal for as a base for chipping..
(Yes.. I am lazy, I mix MM Black and Red Oxide to achieve
this now but a ready to go would be nice) :P
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Haha, I feel for these hobby paint
companies, everyone treats them like a DJ. I wouldn't
worry too much, their range of colors will expand and
cover considerable ground in time.
Like · Reply · 1y
BJ DeBekker Rinaldi Studio Aww come on now.. I am a

manufacturer,, I get 20 kit suggestions a week.. :P
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio And me too, I get it all the time. lol... but I'm
also not saying either way what's coming. Not my place
;)
Like · Reply · 1y
J.Diego Rios can you tell in your experience in what paints the
Mr.Color leveling thinner works better (besides mr. color paints).
thanks.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio My personal experience is with Tamiya.
That's really the only brand I concerned myself with using
Mr. Levelling Thinner. It's a rather obsessive process it
seems today, but since I rarely spray AK or AMMO, I have
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seems today, but since I rarely spray AK or AMMO, I have
no comments on how it works with either brand. I've heard
it does wonders, but that's not for me to say with any
expertise. I've never used it with Vallejo or Lifecolor, or
Mission Models for that matter.
See my comments on spraying lacquers above, I've
stopped doing this. This info is there, it works great, but
it's not something I will do with any large degree of
operation anymore for health/environmental reasons.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Norman King Is mixing paints outside the airbrush cup good

practice or a waste of time?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Perfectly fine, and something I do all the

time. I only mix in the AB cup if it's a really small part or
section that needs to be sprayed. I assume you mean
mixing colors together. For more historically accurate
issues, I almost always mix outside the cup. Get the little
clear plastic mixing cups with the CC/ML marks on the
side at any good hobby shop or RiteAid type of store,
pharmacy/drugstore, etc.
I do thin/mix directly into the cup many times if it's just a

single color I'm spraying.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Dan Kraus Here's another example, with a 1/44 Gundam shield

for a paint mule.
Author
Rinaldi Studio This is normal and looks good to my eyes.
Typically, it is incorporated into the weathering steps,
since it's going to be relatively dirty afterwards.
Also, as a side note, pure white and pure black are tones I
don't usually paint in. Tint them slightly to allow for pure
tones to be added back into the scheme if need be.
If you want zero bleed through, varnish before hand, but
I'd stick to a matte varnish for tooth/bite with the chipping
part. Also, you may not be waiting long enough between
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part. Also, you may not be waiting long enough between
going into HS and chipping the top coat. I know with
Vallejo, for example, it is a really good idea to wait a few
hours, or overnight for them to dry completely (and with a
hair dryer too), let it cure properly, and this will greatly
reduce the bleeding.
Dan Kraus Rinaldi Studio Thanks! I should mention they

weren't pure white, more like an Insignia White mix with
Tamiya paints. You're probably right that I'm not waiting
long enough before hairspraying. I'll keep that in mind for
the next one.
1
Norman King I think I’m guilty of over-cleaning my airbrushes,

how often do you strip-clean yours?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio It's hard to be guilty of this. I'm obsessive
most of the time. But see my comments on using one
airbrush per chemical paint type.
This factor changed my painting dramatically. When

modelers switch paint brands through the same airbrush,
and mention spraying issues, which I've witnessed many
times online and in conversations about painting -- it is
because they are running various chemicals through
them. This complicates cleaning to a huge degree, forcing
strip downs far more often.
With one aribrush per chemical type, for example, the
lacquers -- that's all that ever goes through them. So
cleaning, stripping, etc. is a breeze. Also, clogs/spitting
become almost non-existent (tip drying is wholly other
non-related issue).
Therefore, I will NEVER spray Vallejo through the airbrush I

use with Tamiya paints, for example.
During SM03, I was able to swap Mission Models colors
with a simple spraying of their thinner neat to flush it out,
and saw/experienced zero spraying issues related to
clogging/spitting/funky operation. I only stripped the AB at
the end of the day. And trust me, the 1/100 Sazabi took a
LOT of painting! Lol.
When any AB gets over 2-3 years old, I'll replace nozzles,
needles and o-rings as a matter of maintenance.
Especially the lacquer designated airbrushes, they see a
lot of chemical abuse, so much so even chrome gets
stripped off inside the cups routinely.
I also keep in-stock a new nozzle/needle combo for each
AB in case I damage them by accident. These two are the
most critical AB parts for spraying accurately.
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most critical AB parts for spraying accurately.
3
Norman King Rinaldi Studio I mostly use Tamiya acrylic

thinned with X20A/Mr Color Self Levelling Thinner or
enamels and other lacquer paints and I clean the airbrush
using cellulose (lacquer) thinner.
Should I get another airbrush dedicated to Tamiya use
only?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio That's my recommendation. On airbrush
per chemical type, since it's an investment I get the added
costs might put some guys off. However, it makes
consistent quality airbrushing a reality. I have three, one
for lacquers (Tamiya, Gunze, MRP), one for vinyl/latex
acrylics (Vallejo, Lifecolor, AK, AMMO, etc), and now one
for Mission Models. I don't spray enamels anymore.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram How do you spray dullcoat/varnish? Do the need

thining? If so, how much?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio For Testers Dullcote, I usually use the

aerosol cans.
For a varnish, most of my experience has been with Vallejo

and AK varnishes, I find I have better results thing them
almost 50-50 with their recommended thinners (Vallejo
71.161 Thinner, and AK 712 thinner). Spray in thin coats,
never heavy. Let it dry in between to see the sheen. AK's
UltraMatte and new Mission Models Matte varnishes truly
lay down dead flat coats (I dn;t do much gloss coat stuff
except to lay a decal down or two regarding armor and
mechs).
You can also spray varnishes at a little higher psi, around
18-20psi most of the time for overall varnishes. Keep the
AB distance the same throughout to avoid pebbles or too
wet of a top coat. A lot of varnishing issues results from
being to heavy handed, going to fast, and not paying
attention to the distance from the model because it's hard
to see spraying a clear coat, unlike a paint.
3
John Gunn Do you find that the ambient moisture or

temperature of where you work has that much of an effect on
the quality of airbrushing? If so do you take any steps to mitigate
it?
1
Page 7 of 11
Author
Rinaldi Studio Yes, a lot. I am from SoCal/LA area, lived in

Vegas for a bit and now in Portland, so have experienced a
range of climates from coastal warm, to high desert to
basically mild rain forest in the lower PNW.
I work in my apartment, so it's fairly controlled
environment, but the days of garage painting was a bitch.
Temps and climate do play a huge role in how paint
sprays. Everything is controlled by thinning ratios and the
psi, depends on the brand and what I'm trying to achieve.
It's not just one answer.
Hot/cold and dry require more thinning, and you'll see

much quicker tip drying issues overall with acrylics.
Wetter climates help, but longer paint drying can be an
issue and surface irregularities can creep up like runs, etc.
if you lay down too much too fast (although climate isn't
the cause of runs, it's just worse is all).
1
Like · Reply · 1y
BJ DeBekker I will open it up with a basic question.. What are

your go to ABs
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I'm a long time Iwata user (now using HP-
C+ and HP-CS), and Tamiya SF. So I have a .2mm and two
.3mm airbrushes. I recently acquired the newer Harder
Steenbeck line and will be using them as well too. I never
have just one.
I have one airbrush per chemical type. This keeps most of

the clogging issues to a minimum. I use one for lacquer
brands, one for vinyl/latex brands, one for the newer
Mission Models line.
The root of a lot airbrushing problems starts with putting
dissimilar types through the same airbrush without
massive cleanup routines. This switch, (and yes the added
costs), make painting a joy again.
2
BJ DeBekker Nice.. You haven't had any issues with the

MM Paints plugging the .3s.. I was having fits to get it to
flow through the .3. I switched to my .5 Thayer and no
issues after that.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio None. In fact, it has the finest pigments of
any hobby brand. The needle size isn't an issue, it goes
through Microns with ease. (.18mm needles). It's not the
.3 size that's the problem. And it's not the paint, it's the
cleanliness of the airbrush.
Trust me, something is inside or your AB, or you had used

it with other paints prior to spraying MMP through it, and
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it with other paints prior to spraying MMP through it, and
there is residual particles left inside that are reacting or
clogging the AB.
See my comment above about using one airbrush per
chemical paint type, it's essential to recognize this to have
success across using various brands.
2
Scott Gentry Everyone reading this thread should read

this^^^
1
Norman King Do you think priming is essential?

1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Anyone that has ever read an article of
book by me know I prime my models. It's a step I always
do.
Simply put, I have never had an issue BECAUSE I primed a

model. It's insurance in the least, and highly effective for
proper paint adhesion in most cases with multiple medium
projects. The cost is minimal compared the kit's overall
costs, and I've had issues when I haven't primed with
paint lifting, so I always prime.
6
Like · Reply · 1y
Sylvain Plante And, it brings out any defects, mismatch,

irregularities before laying the base colour coat. A good
primer should be easily sandable too. This step will help a
lot to fix minor mistakes.
1
Nathan Ram I see you use the iwata micro valve. What pressure
to you set your compressor when using the valve?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Yes, these are gold! I have them on all my
airbrushes, since none came equipped with MAC valves. I
also have adjustable handles too, to lock the needle
movement. Both are CRITICAL to upper level airbrushing
success. I swear by both.
My compressor, and Iwata Power Jet (Studio Series) is set

about 15-20psi most days. With that adjustment and the
MAC valves, I can really fine tune myself depending on the
spraying tasks.
1
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1
Like · Reply · 1y
BJ DeBekker Before the Days of Mission Models Primer. (Which

I love) I use to use the Lacquer primers. (Automotive) But always
ran into the issues with the blowback/to dry causing the chicken
pox thus having to go back and knock it down with sandpaper or
Scotchbri… See More
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio I rarely used spray primers prior to MMP, I
used aerosols almost exclusively (Like Gunze Mr. Surfacer
1200, and Tamiya Fine Surface Primer). But I'm not in a
place with a garage or outdoor painting area (urban living
lol), so airbrushing a primer is back. Because it's done
inside, I use MMP Primers now, and haven't seen surface
issues with spraying their primer. I've used Vallejo and AK
Primers before too, and again if thinned and psi set
correctly, I had no spraying/surface issues either.
Rough surface is almost always related to distance to the

model (too far away and the particles dry in the air, and
leave pebbly surfaces), close the AB in to the model
(around 304" should be typical) and lower the air
pressure, and/or thin it more too. Lay down thinner coats,
you might be trying to hard with the first coat.
If this a persistent issue, set up a test and run various

mixtures and ratios, and spray distances to solve the
problem. It should be very clear afterwards why.
2
Dan Kraus Hi Michael,
This is part airbrushing, part hairspray question.

I'm finding myself wanting dark paint chips, with a light, in these
cases, white main color. When I go to chip, I need to scrub really
hard. When it starts to lift, I end up discoloring the white. I'd
rather take care of that later with oils so I can be more deliberate
with the filters and other effects for weathering.
Are my white airbrused coats too heavy to cover the black? Not
thinned enough? Too little hairspray?
Thanks!
Here's a 1/72 Bandai A-Wing from Star Wars. I've only done
airbrushed coats and HS chipping hear. No oils or anything yet.
You can see the discoloration.
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Rinaldi Studio
May 6, 2018 ·
RSP Q&A SESSION #10

MISSION MODELS PAINTS
The 10th RSP Q&A session is now open from 12PM Sunday - 12PM
Monday (PDT, West Coast US). EDIT -- switched to 24hr session.
Please ask any and all questions related to using the new line of water-
based acrylic paints from Mission Models. (Post photos of your work to
help me answer questions).
These sessions are intended to be technique discussions to expand the
knowledge base, clarify skill development issues, and help me target
areas I need to explain further, both here, and in future books.
The more you ask, the better this will be! Thank you -- Michael, RSP
Page 1 of 23
113 73 Comments 13 Shares
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All Comments
Author
Rinaldi Studio Thank you guys, this was another very
informative session with lots of good questions that provide
fantastic content to really cover some ground with the MMP
products.
And some final thoughts that I'll leave you with when using MMP,
starting with it helps to put aside how we normally use and spray
hobby paints, egos too, no one cares when we are at the bench
working solo. There is a lot of discussion around this topic,
hobby painting, what thinners to use, etc. to get brand X to
spray right and it is daunting, often contentious levels of online
chatter. I'd call it a pain in the ass, to be really honest, on the
order of "first world problem" levels. Even for me, with a ton of
experience to lean on, I dreaded stepping into some projects
because of the reliance upon lacquers, and/or lacquer thinner
processes. I hated it, to be blunt; the horrendous odors, skin
irritation issues, constant clean-up sessions to remove it all from
my work space, heavy LT use would even strip chrome out of an
airbrush over time. I simply have had my fill.
Plus, the prospect of switching to lesser quality latex/vinyl paints
to avoid using lacquers was also fret with hurdles... the legacy
hobby paint brands are fairly low tech products, and they often
require some crutch to truthfully get them to spray successfully.
I've painted enough to know this intimately, and that too is very
frustrating in the long run. Yes, they all can be used to super
high levels, please don't misread me, but it does takes more
effort than I believe we need to be expending. I will keep using
some brands to varying degrees, but ultimately walking away
from lacquers (and enamels, by default) has been rewarding.
Which are the main reasons I'm so supportive of MMP -- ease of

use, fast clean-up with overall low toxicity levels, no odors at all,
water-based environmentally friendly, very little tip drying over
the long spraying sessions, fast drying like a good acrylic should
be, durable, with an excellent overall color selection. Combine
that with an ability to match performance with how well lacquers
spray, and that is all I needed to turn away from working in the
lacquer environment for scale modeling. Plus, they chip better
than Tamiya + HS too. It's a major relief, to put it lightly -- give
this some serious thought.
Page 2 of 23
I'm not trying to put lacquers down, far from it, they usually
perform excellently, but the toxics levels at hand, clean-up
issues regarding disposal, basic health issues and the plethora
of extra equipment needed to keep us safe, which severely limits
working indoors, and so and so on -- this is a choice we don't
need to make any longer.
MMP are amazing paints, and with a little practice, following
along with their thinning and pressure recommendations, they
provide consistent results with impressive finishes. I'll say it
clearly, they rival lacquers with ease of use and fine spraying,
finish quality, durability and already have a broad range of colors
and products.
I recommend airbrush it as discussed, and develop a baseline
for your setup, get it to work first, before tweaking things to your
needs/liking. Don't try to out-tech it, or apply older painting
processes to MMP before using it. Keep other chemicals out of
that same airbrush whenever possible, and you should see
repeatedly impressive painting results with little effort. Getting
up to speed will go much faster and smoother, as a result. Clean
up is super easy with their thinner to flush it out once finished
for the session. Nothing else is needed. Nothing bought in an art
store, hardware store, other thinners, etc. is needed at all.
Use the MMP thinner with the primer and paint, keep it simple,
keep it in the family, and trust me, you shouldn't be having
issues, beyond the occasional modeler's induced missteps we
all have. I personally look forward to spraying MMP on models
without stress nowadays. I have been getting very consistent
results without the mental hiccups, it's that low stress -- and
THAT is worth its weight in gold.
7
Author
Rinaldi Studio EDIT -- it's a lazy Sunday everywhere, so
switching this to a 24hr session, I'll keep it open until noon
tomorrow (US West Coast time). Ask away -- Thanks!
Like · Reply · 1y
John Bonanni So many questions, now I have so much time

I'm still learning a lot from these paints so this is great. I initially
struggled using the paints but after some reading and tweaking
I'm getting them dialed in.
I'll start off by asking your thoughts on drying time before

masking with putty/tape. I'm about to start that process but
need to touch a few base coat spots first. Also, any risk to paint
lift if sprayed over a lacquer primer?
I'd also like to ask about using oil paints over MMP paint. Are
clear coats required to protect the base colors?
4
Author
Rinaldi Studio Ask away... thank you! Again, your own
Page 3 of 23
Rinaldi Studio Ask away... thank you! Again, your own
recent use is what prompted this discussion today.
OK, allow me to use some of what you went through to
provide a deeper conversation on these paints. Partially,
because I think it plays to the modeler's pysche and why
we tend to do things the way we do.
First off, to help set a baseline of knowledge, for all of you

reading this, I come from the thin 50-50 crowd and years
of using lacquer thinners with every hobby brand to some
varying degrees (mostly Tamiya, but I have tested and
used all the brands with LT over time, and used Mr. Paint
for 6 months on two major projects). This was done
because most hobby paints kind of suck with TRUE
spraying quality, and lacquers perform the best with fine
airbrushing, and by default adding LT is a crutch to get a
lot of paints to work to our desires. MMP products are
NOT this, and don't work this way, and working with
lacquers is not needed any longer. I can make MMP work
as well as any lacquer we have. Besides, there is a high
toxicity level with lacquers, and the fortunately, the severe
odors are now a thing of the past too.
It's a tough sell to a lot of you out there -- trust me, I know
better than most how well lacquers perform. And I've also
spent a lot of time observing the various comments as
they pop up here and on the various forums... most
modeler's tend to apply their own "other" paint brand
experiences to MMP, usually with some issues, prior to
simply following the recommendations.
General Airbrushing Tip: If you are using AB's that
typically have other brands sprayed through it, I strongly
recommend a full strip and break down, and complete
cleaning, prior to using a different chemical type of paint.
MMP are 100% water-based organic acrylics, so any
lacquers, vinyls, latex paints, etc. prior use will cause
issues. I recommend this any time you switch chemical
types to avoid AB issues. A LOT of problems happen
because of this. I personally use one AB per chemical type
of paint for this specific reason, clogging is almost non-
existent for me since this change. Do not clean MMP with
lacquer thinners either.
Masking -- I use Tamiya tape, de-tacted on my skin or
clothes. I've had no lifting issues over MMP, and I usually
wait at least an hour and that is mainly because of
cleaning and prep after spraying, etc. Just my natural rate
of getting to that step. I always prime, like most of you
know. I don't burnish my masks or tape with any real force
too, and don't let the masks sit for too long, as general
rules of thumb. A smooth polished aircraft surface will
change this up, my armor is usually matte, and
tape/masks adhere differently, as does paint adhesion
over highly polished surfaces. You know my default, run a
test or two to see what's what.
Re. oils over paints... when have you guys EVER seen me
recommend a varnish prior to oils? This applies to any
paint, and no, MMP, like every other brand require no
added anything for OPR weathering. Why? Mainly because
Page 4 of 23
added anything for OPR weathering. Why? Mainly because
all of this works best when you don't flood a surface. Less
is more, and varnishes are not needed in general re.
protection from enamels and oils over an acrylic base
coat.
My personal preference is matte surface first, so the satin
lovers out there will struggle oil paint blending, etc., so I
definitely recommend add a matte varnish for needed bite
and grip of the oils, if this is something you encounter,
rather than any protection purpose(s).
6
Majid Mansoor Rinaldi Studio TY Michael and Hi John this

is my 1rst project with MMP love them!
1
Gideon Kasaska Hi Mike, I've been having an issue with MMP. I

am following the recipe for thinning the paint as recommended
and spraying at about 12-15 psi but I am finding that my airbrush
clogs after not too long! I suspect it is to do with a problem
other than the paint but maybe you could offer some advice?
Before using MMP I was using Tamiya thinned with their X-20A,
could it be that there are old remnants of that causing it to clog?
I am spraying inside at normal indoor temperatures, in the UK.
Many thanks!
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Yes, is my best answer. Especially if the
two issues are related in time, like it is a recent use of
Tamiya and then the switch happened.
I'd be surprised if the AB didn't do the same with X-20A,
it's a well known issue and happened all the time with me,
prior to using LT instead. But even then, all paints will
eventually have tip dry. It varies from brand to brand, and
from chemical to chemical.
I recommend a second AB if the budget allows for it.

Otherwise, strip and clean completely, dry fully, rinse out a
few times with MMP thinner sprayed neat prior to spraying
the paint, and this will help a ton. I can usually spray 20-
30 minutes before I need to really clean the tip and nozzle
in a big spraying session. And make sure all residue is out
of, and off of the critical pass through areas, nozzle and
needle.
Page 5 of 23
needle.
The single biggest issue for airbrushing, regardless of
brand is CLEANING. I'm guilty too, trust me I get lazy time
to time, or am in a hurry -- poor cleaning is the #1 cause
of spraying problems. I have reduced the problem
dramatically by using separate airbrushes per paint brand,
but even then, cleaning is absolutely the single most
important airbrushing task we have. Bar none.
Skip this, or go lightly, and problems WILL occur.

1
Gideon Kasaska Thanks for the reply! When I strip and

clean my airbrush, what should I use to clean it? Mission
Model thinner?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Yes, it works best in this regards to using
MMP products. When used in a closed loop setup, it's
super easy product line-up to use, cleaning is the easiest
and least toxic out there.
1
Gideon Kasaska Rinaldi Studio thanks for the advice!

1
Jonathan Anderson How do you end up using the poly?
Personally I've had minor issues balancing the appropriate

amount of thinner with MMP. Too thick, and you get a bit of tip
dry and clogging; too thin (and too aggressive with the trigger!)
and you can get bit of pooling. I find that with a rather
aggressive use of the poly, partially in place of the thinner, that I
can more easily strike the balance and spray for 30 minutes at a
time with really no issues. And I'm a Neanderthal with the
airbrush! I haven't found much of a downside with the poly... I
like the slight satin it gives, and I think it might protect it a bit
from the further brutalization I'm going to inflict on it... but
curious of your practice.
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio I use the Poly just as prescribed, a few
drops per batch when I want to add it. I typically use it for
the sheen quality to vary the surfaces between matte and
satin, I did that in SM.03 in a couple of places, and on the
test model Rick Dom. But that's just me, I tend to stay in
the matte surface conversation for my projects mainly
because they see a lot of weathering. It also hinders HS
chipping to varying degrees because of this, so I don't
incorporate it much in heavily chipped projects. But that is
both its strength and weakness, if you will, for modelers
going after the worn out look. It pays off huge for aircraft
Page 6 of 23
going after the worn out look. It pays off huge for aircraft
and car modelers, by contrast.
Airbrushing is a precise technique and process, requires
tools be properly cleaned and so forth. I'd venture some
serious testing/practice would pay huge dividends,
probably a total break down and cleaning to reset the
airbrush, as well. Create a new baseline to sort out your
issues spraying, since it's far easier to diagnose than
chasing it by adding Poly, and so forth. It's so hard for me
to guess at what is happening and why, without a lot more
information to build a set of parameters from. By the
tones of the comments today, it is less about using MMP
and more about becoming better with the airbrush.
That said, airbrushing woes have existed since the tool

was invented and every paint has these "I'm not getting
the most from it" type of commentary over time, it's the
nature of something rather delicate and subtle in the
variable of application. We used to have these same
convos with Tamiya, Vallejo, Lifecolor, etc. almost daily
prior to Facebook. ;)
Poly can be a crutch because it has the unique element of
tightening the pigments bonds and providing more
opaque coverage with ovethinned paint mixtures, which
I'm learning about too. It's not the main purpose of the
Poly, per say, because it is designed to provide a harder,
tougher, more resilient shell for a painted surface -- think
polyurethanes for wood, etc. and its added benefits are
less tip drying and clogging, a satin finish for those after
that (can even be declared with an additional gloss coat),
superior paint leveling (which causes the satin finish), and
the aforementioned improved opacity.
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio Separately, pooling is more a result of
speed of hand movements (too slow, or lingering too long)
while trying to get full coverage in a heavier pass, and/or
also too much air pressure. Practice applying thinner
coats and more consistent hand movement, and
maintaining a proper distance from the surface. You might
be too close for the type of spraying you are doing, and
likely too aggressive with the air pressure on top of this.
Master this though, and it's a whole new ball game, trust
me.
If your paint mixture is too thin, you can easily
compensate with slightly faster and more fluid hand
motions with the airbrush, and lower air pressure, and
never linger in any one spot, that will cause any paint to
pool up. And/or simply add a drop or two more paint into
the mix to bring the thickness back up -- too thin is a very
easy thing to fix, usually on the fly.
Like I said, a lot of issues are honestly "airbrushing"

issues, and not actually MMP problems.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Page 7 of 23
Garen Osborn I haven’t actually had the time to use my Mission

stuff yet, but I was wondering about the hairspray chipping
technique. I’ve seen various reports ranging from it works
awesome to it doesn’t work at all with Mission. Can you point me
in the direction of a resource to learn where I should start?
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio Truthfully speaking, I am the working
authority on HS, given how much I've done with it and
written about this technique since it was introduced to us
by Phil Stutcinskas way back in 2007. Get the TA and/or
SM books, if you haven't already, they are loaded with real
world experience, discussions, SBS images and
presentations, reasons and trouble shooting, and each
one features HS chipping to a large degree. I know a lot of
you know this already, but these sessions are also built off
of my RSP books. These sessions provide an important
bridge to fill in the gaps in the conversations, reinforce the
written content to get as much knowledge of out of this,
and improve the effective use for your own projects.
Whoever says they can't get MMP to chip via HS chipping

is doing something wrong somewhere. ALL paints work
with HS/CF chipping techniques. It is not determined by
the chemical type or brand of paint whether chipping
occurs. Difficulty chipping is caused by too little HS, or
the top coat is too thick and the water cannot penetrate
down to the HS and dissolve it away, which is how and
why the chips occur. This is typically the most common
issue I see, too little HS applied. Most modelers er on the
side of caution, especially if not having done a lot of tests
prior to using it on their model.
Too much, or too easy chipping is the opposite -- too

much HS was applied, and/or too thin of a top coat for the
type of chips the projects is needing. And even too much
water is being used, as well. All are factors.
The quality of the chips varies from brand to brand, this is

very true and relevant, which is largely because of what
type of chemical it is, such as enamel, lacquer or vinyl
acrylic, etc. Each brand has its own unique chipping
aspects that affect the style of the chips, but they ALL will
chip with measured success if you know the variables and
how best to extract them from each brand of paint. Same
for using the Chipping Fluids, it all applies the same way,
HS or CF.
When you do HS chipping, tests are crucial. While
questions are good and help guide us, you need to
experience all of this for yourself. There is a shit ton of
bad info on the internet and when something goes wrong
in the hobby world with a technique or product, a lot of
modelers will cry fowl to hell and back...usually blaming
the paint or label first when in truth it is often a wrong,
incorrect or poorly applied process as the root cause.
Page 8 of 23
incorrect or poorly applied process as the root cause.
This will sting a few of you, but I'm more of a coach
coming down hard -- we all make mistakes with this stuff,
myself included, and a lot of success with a technique is
very reliant upon skill, and getting the variables correct
(and there are multiples with HS chipping). Practice is
VITAL to success with a lot of these ideas, so take it to
heart guys, and honestly get familiar. It will pay off HUGE
when you truly have the "A-hah!" moments.
That said, MMP is more delicate than Tamiya, and for me,
all I've really had to do is adjust my scrubbing
technique/pressures, work a little slower, use less water
on the surface and brush, and the results are amazing.
The chips, and variety of effects I can achieve are broader
and greater than Tamiya + HS. This has been my
experience after using MMP for a year now.
Also, it is very important that all variables be discussed
openly. Like I say a few times in these sessions, the little
details matter and help determine the problem. If
someone can't get a paint to chip with HS, there is a
problem in the process of the application somewhere and
without full info, just reading the bitching and moaning
doesn't do anything for anyone.
I mean this very sincerely, all painting problems are

solvable and it has nothing to do specifically with MMP
being new. Once we have the right info, the solutions can
be offered up and more often than not it's an easy fix, or
tweak.
5
Jonathan Anderson Rinaldi Studio preach. I love chipping.

It might be the only part of this hobby I'm pretty good at.
Mr. Paint chips. AK Real Colors chips. Tamiya chips.
Vallejo chips. Mission Models chips. But they all chip
differently, especially the ones with multiple possible
thinners! Even within a brand, some colors do chip a bit
differently, and certainly different thicknesses of hairspray
and/or paint affect the chipping! People claim its
"alchemy" but its just a science that requires repetition
and practice.
That said, mission models absolutely chips nicely. In fact,

if i want something to chip, its my go to paint (second
choice being Tamiya, perhaps thinned with X-20A instead
of Mr Leveling thinner). But it is delicate, and once it starts
chipping, it is EASY to over-chip and flake off huge hunks.
This isn't a BAD thing, it means you can create chips from
microscopic to huge, and everything in between. You just
need to be gentle and use only a damp soft brush at first,
until you see how things are going with your particular
piece! :)
4
Erik Williams How are mmp metallics. How do they perform

Page 9 of 23
Erik Williams How are mmp metallics. How do they perform
compared to alclad? Is alclad still king for realistic metallics?
Would it be possible to post real world examples of how they
perform?
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio It's been years since I last used Alclads
(little need in my mainly armor world) ... therefore I don't
spray a lot of high shine metallics, and to be honest I can
only speak on some early observations.
I'll get into NMF aircraft later this year, and from what
limited tests I've done and seen myself, or those from
friends that do more of that type of painting, I see little to
say Alclad are superior at the end of the day. Marcus
Nicholls latest 1/72 Tamiya Hein in TMMI pops to mind. In
the least, MMP is definitely a part of that conversation
moving forward. One element to MMP metallics is there is
actual 6061 aluminum in each one, so it should be default
have a more realistic result.
Metallics are the most difficult finish to paint, and painting
metallics is a little bit of a false Mecca anyway. There have
been numerous products that provide a more realistic look
than Alclad, the pastes or buffing powders come to mind,
although Alclads are a definite high standard by which to
judge a good quality metallic by -- we'd all agree on that
I'm sure. Some swear by them, others not so much. I'm
out of the lacquer game anyway, so don't expect any
direct comparison reviews from me in the future, since I'll
stick to these acrylics and the variety of pastes, graphite,
or even foil.
My main modeling time has been taken with painting

camo'd projects, and when those metallic-based projects
happen for me, they will be dissected at length because I
know we are all waiting for this with RSP. ;)
As for spraying them, they perform like the rest of the
paint line so far, which is to say pretty awesome. I don't
take photos of the quick tests, since they are already
covered with other colors or products, but when it
happens I'll share per my usual process here, and in the
books.
3
Erik Williams Thanks!!! 1
Jon Williams 1. I am finding that the paint does not cover very
well. I am adding Polly and thinning at the recommended mixes
(10 drops paint, 1 drop poly and thinner). Am I doing something
wrong?
2. What thinning ratios do you recommend for airbrushing for
fine camoflage?
Page 10 of 23
fine camoflage?
3. What are your opinions on the accuracy of the colors?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I'd love photos if you can take some... what
is the subject, scale, and your region/location.
What is the distance from the model you spray at?
Air pressures?
My initial thoughts are you going for coverage in 1-2 coats
and not used to laying paint down in thin layers, building
coverage up slowly? A lot of what you are talking about is
my gut is saying it's how you airbrush rather than the
paints causing any real issues. I need to know your
experience level with airbrushing. I often think what you
may or may not think is working actually is, or it's how the
process is and your skill level is throwing things off
somewhat.
I thin at 20-30%, but given some guys see full coverage
without thinning, and others have issues, it could be a few
things really. How you paint like I said, how fast you move
the airbrush and from what distance to the model affects
things as well.
Please be more specific with "fine camouflage"... what

scale and subject if you can.
Color accuracy is fine, I usually cross check them on this
topic to help make any adjustments when asked upon,
since I help with that and graphics for MMP. (Disclaimer --
if you guys aren'y yet familiar I have some minor hand in
MMP early development and do the graphics for the
labels, brochures and ads) -- first off, color accuracy is
subjective for any hobby paints, this is a hugely
contentious subject for a variety of reasons from chemical
to atmospherical aberrations and what it does to color,
fading, etc. and my personal opinion is they are very good,
beyond that weathering plays a massive role in how colors
are resolved. You are better served asking specifics,
general how are a brands color accuracy is rather broad to
be blunt.
Jon Williams Rinaldi Studio Hey Mike, thanks for the

reply! To be more specific, I have been airbrushing for at
least 8 years, most of which was with Tamiya thinned with
their own thinners to about 50-50. I have also used Vallejo
Model Air (I don't anymore) and Ammo acrylic paints. I
suppose it is possible that they are working just as
normal, but not what I am used to. To further refine my
question, do you find tha the paint prefers to go do in
"wetter" coats? Going off the videos from their youtube
channel, they seem to apply the paint in fairly wet coats
and let it auto-level. Do the paints prefer this? From my
ammo experience, I am used to very light, almost dry
coats layered on top of each other, letting each layer dry
completely before applying another.
1
Page 11 of 23
Jon Williams For fine camouflage, I mean for 1:35 scale

German armor. Of course, every airbrush, atmosphere,
and compressor likes different things. I guess what I am
asking is- how do you approach it? Say you were going to
paint the camo from your Ferdinand again using these
paints: https://goo.gl/images/2h5MKd
For color accuracy, I really just wanted your opinion,
knowing how subjective they are.
Two final questions (Gotta get my money's worth!) 1. Do

you have experience with their primers? I have not had
much luck. Mine dried to a very rough, gritty finish,
thinned 25% with their thinner and sprayed at 18 PSI.
IMAGES.GOOGLE.COM
Imagen: Ferdinand by Mike
Rinaldi (Dragon 1/35)
2
Jon Williams 2. What is your "typical" mixing ratio (by

drop) of paint, thinner, and poly)? Just to give me a
"ballpark" for further testing.
I really wish I could send you pictures, but I am currently

going through a move right now and all of my modeling
stuff is packed away!
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Thank you Jon!! Much much better info,

and this is what I mean for those of you out there -- be as
specific as humanly possible, you'd be surprised what
small thing you could be doing, or have previous
experience helps me a lot to target the heart of the
problem(s). Knowing how you use Brand X will usually
give me the needed insight to tweak your efforts with
Brand Y, and so forth. It all matters!
Ok, yes, light wet coats is how MMP should be applied
successfully. They will level better than any paint this way,
and the quality of the surface will be a lot better overall.
This process also dries tight, and maximizes coverage
versus 1-2 thicker coats. High quality paint jobs are laid
down like this in the miniature world. Large full-size
operations like automotive painting are totally different
animals and don't translate well across the scales we deal
with. The smaller the physical size of the model, the more
precise and delicate things become.
MMP Thinning Ratio and Air pressure: general painting
ratio is just as they recommend, 2-3 drops of thinner to 10
drops of paint, and if wanted 1-2 drops of Poly. That's a
basic spraying recipe ratio. I spray at 12-15psi most days,
from 1-2" from the surface. Higher psi up to 20psi for
larger jobs. If you spray from 3-4", move it in a little bit,
Page 12 of 23
larger jobs. If you spray from 3-4", move it in a little bit,
drop the psi a touch too, distance is a critical factor with
airbrushing and how fast and smooth you move it over the
model.
Test, test, and test. Tests can answer a number of
questions when you determine the speed, distance,
thinning ratios and air pressures for airbrushing. Various
tweaks can easily fix certain issues, such as rough surface
is usually too far away. Runs and drips are too close, and
or too slow with too high of air pressure and so on, all of
which is pretty basic airbrushing 101. Practice if you
haven't sprayed in a while, we can get rusty. Just like on a
golf course, and not playing for a bit. It will save
headaches later on.
We can discuss colors more specifically whenever you

like.
Yes, their primers are awesome. I don't spray it differently
to their paints... move the AB in closer too, rough surface
is a distance issue most of the time. And you're likely
spraying too fast, from too far away. Lay it down in thin,
wet coats just like the paint.
I'll answer CM painting separately too.
Jon Williams Rinaldi Studio thanks so much! I dug out the

compressor and found that things worked MUCH better
when I moved the AB closer!
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio Jon Williams I'm just guessing here, ok
maybe not, but a lot of painting issues are technique
issues and not actual chemical issues. Familiarity will ramp
the learning curve up dramatically. Keep at it, ask away,
anytime! And very happy that tip made a difference.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio CM - Color Modulation is a unique form of
painting, and to achieve the fine gradations in color shifts
across large surfaces the airbrush is used slightly
differently, in that it tends to be held at a more acute
angle to the surface than regular spraying, (which is
usually perpendicular to the surface).
Why this is important is that the paint that travels farther
across the model before hitting the surface will often dry
faster and thus rougher, and this can lead to a number of
annoying little issues. If left unchecked, or amended, this
means a pebbly texture to the paint and weathering on
this is a bitch. Trust me, I know. Happens a lot when
working too fast, and not paying very close attention to
the CM spraying process.
MMP works best when laid down in light wet coats, and
levels better than any paint I've used before, even without
the Poly Additive, which is designed to improve leveling
Page 13 of 23
the Poly Additive, which is designed to improve leveling
further. Ideally, it is the perfect paint choice for gradated
coats. Therefore, if spraying a CM project, use this to
advantage, and by default, it should be a smoother end
result, if all goes well.
I've not sprayed a CM model in a while, nor used MMP
with a CM project yet, but this is my best interpretation of
the actual spraying process and getting the most out of
the finishing style CM provides.
1
Caleb Matthew McCreary Mike, what are your thoughts on

using MMP to achieve a NMF on World War II aircraft? I am
looking to replicate a war weary finish on a Pacific 1/32 B-25J so
I am not looking for a high shine. Would a flat black primer or
gloss black primer be best? I will be using MMP Aluminum, Dull
Aluminum, Dark Aluminum and White Aluminum to give some
tonal variations. Thanks for taking the time to answer these
questions!
1
Hide 12 Replies
Author
Rinaldi Studio See Marcus' latest 1/72 Tamiya Hein in the
new TMMI magazine. I like what I see there... and when I
get around to painting NMF is large quantities, I will flood
everyone's feed with them, promise. My current
experience is a little limited since most of my models are
painted in camouflage. But it's coming...
If you're good at NMF, you can work with different base

black sheens to achieve specific effects, however, the
main rule for most NMF is use a Gloss Black base coat,
highly polished and prepped meticulously. It's a labor of
love really, but that is the path for best results.
Therefore it depends on your end game, skill level,
dedication to the tasks, and necessary prep work. It's why
NMF are a love-hate thing. Metallics are largely about
prep, so don't skimp there.
2
Tim Perry Dave Crosby 1
Dave Crosby Tim Perry It all depends on what kind of

NMF you want. WWII aircraft got an occasional wash and
the finish would actually be matt. Aluminium surface
corrodes and goes grey very quickly so that’s one thing to
take into consideration. I used MMP metallics on a recent
Revell P-51D model, used Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500
Black as the primer. The metallics were applied in 3 or 4
thin layers to get a solid finish every time. This black gloss
Page 14 of 23
thin layers to get a solid finish every time. This black gloss
lark is a cheat, I recommend Will Pattinson’s excellent
Chrome Paint segments on YouTube. He explains how
reflectance works. I spent 13 years in the RAF and bashed
a lot of aluminium and recognise it when I see it!
2
Like · Reply · Message · 1y · Edited
Tim Perry Dave Crosby can you post a pic or two of your
Mustang? I think the readers here would like to see it!
1
Dave Crosby Crappy photos but here goes.
Dave Crosby Colours used were the original Faded Al,

White Al, Dark Al, Dural, Chrome (Spinner), Silver (paint
finish on the wings and canvas covered elevators and
rudder). The stainless steel strips around the exhausts are
in Have Glass Grey, the paint meant for the F-35. ALL
paints were MMP, Red, Black etc on markings. All interior
parts airbrushed with MMP Interior Green or YZC or GZC.
I’ve used MMP ever since it became available in the UK,
having used Lacquer for ages. Sprays beautifully but
needs practice, it doesn’t handle the same as any other
paint. The trick is thin layers! Regards, Bruce Crosby
1
Caleb Matthew McCreary Dave Crosby thank you!!

Dave Crosby What I forgot to say, confirming Mike

Rinaldi’s findings, you need to read the MMP mixing
instructions and stick to them. They work every time, no
guesswork involved. Their ratios work and I tend to use
multiples of 10 for the base colour and scale up the
thinner and Poly values to match. And I’ve very quickly
learned just how much paint will cover a specific area, so
hardly any wastage.
1
Dave Crosby Photo of Revell’s Me 262 at the final

assembly stage. All paint MMP. Regards, Bruce Crosby
Page 15 of 23
1
Caleb Matthew McCreary Dave Crosby for NMF did you

have any durability issues with masking, etc? Is the finish
pretty strong?
1
Dave Crosby Caleb Matthew McCreary I use Tamiya brand

masking tape, with the sticky removed by putting it on the
back of my hand and pulling it off a couple of times. In
general the MMP itself isn’t a problem, except on the
Mustang I used Mr Surfacer as a primer and some of that
didn’t adhere properly. So pulling a few areas of tape took
the paint AND the primer off!!! Shows how good MMP
stuck to the primer! Shame the primer didn’t stick to the
plastic. In general, MMP is my go-to paint. Great finish,
durable, easy to spray, no needle clogging. On the 262
the crosses are sprayed thru my own masks made on the
Silhouette cutter in the photos. For white areas I laid on
three fine layers of MMP White, for the black areas I used
MMP NATO Black which is a superb scale black. Again,
three fine layers. Waited a couple of minutes for the paint
to flash to matt then removed the masks at the first
opportunity. There is no “edge” to the paint when you
touch it, Lacquer paints and most other acrylics reave a
rim you can feel. I put it down to MMP’s remarkable
levelling properties and the way the Poly pulls everything
together. The more you use it, the better it gets. MMP
isn’t a one trick pony, it’s extremely versatile.
1
Caleb Matthew McCreary Dave Crosby Thank you very

much for the insight. I am looking forward to starting my
B-25J in NMF now that I see how MMP looks.
1
Ben Bodenhamer Hey Michael late question here. I was

wondering if you can explain your process when painting
freehand camo patterns with MMP? I am loving the MMP paints
and they are quickly becoming my go to paints due to the health
consciousness of them over lacquers. But I’m lacking a little in
Page 16 of 23
consciousness of them over lacquers. But I’m lacking a little in
my technique when doing camo patterns(I’m thinking mostly
German soft edge patterns). Thanks for doing these Q&A’s!
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio The basic answer, as it applies to nearly
any paint, is thin more (3-4 drops instead of 2-3 per 10
drops of MMP paint), and drop your psi to around 12psi or
thereabouts. Move in close to the surface (under an inch
away).
The airbrush must be cleaned thoroughly prior to. Any
bent needle tips or clogging issues will cause splatters.
And run a few tests to set a baseline for this process as it
pertains to your setup. Especially if you're lacking in the
technique, you must practice this. A lot.
Fine line spraying is as much about feel, as it is proper

paint thinning and airbrush/compressor setup. It is also
easier to draw the pattern in fine lines first, then fill
inward. Don't try to shoot this is 1-2 passes, hoping to see
fine edges -- draw the fine lines/edges first, get the
pattern established on the model while the AB is working
the best. Then clean your AB, start again and slowly fill in
very light coats. Do NOT try to nail this free hand in a few
coats. Take your time, believe me there is NO rush... that
is paramount to success!
Soft-edge camo, as it is called, is usually very tight in

scale, and we still see this effect today on many NATO
vehicles and modern jets. It was very common in WWII,
and even in WWI.
Practice is your friend. Don't be afraid to take 2-3 steps
backwards before moving forward. This will test your
abilities, and equipment. It is achievable with MMP
acrylics, and my recommendation is double the thinning
for normal airbrushing. Like I say above, that is approx. 3-
4 drops of thinner per 10 for this effect with MMP. Psi in
12-15 range, go up or down accordingly on your test
samples to find that magic spot for your AB. You may even
use a touch of poly too, if you do, use it over the entire
paint job so the sheen is even and the same, then go from
there.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Ben Bodenhamer Awesome! Thanks for the tips Michael

I’ve never thought to do a good AB clean out during the
camo but it totally makes sense and I can remember
looking back and thinking “man it was so tight on the
patterns I applied first not so much on the later”.
And slowing down such good advice I am guilty of rushing

a patter too often.
Thank you!
1
Page 17 of 23
Fabien Schürrle have you tips for painting cars with MM gloss
claer coat, or are two component clear coat better?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I'm not a car modeler per say, and two-part
clear coats are definitely the standard. I saw a recent Ford
GT sprayed with the MMP Gloss, and I'd say it's going to
be real competition to the lacquers in the car world.
2
Majid Mansoor Rinaldi Studio one of my Questions Thx!

1
Majid Mansoor I do an occasional car between Armor and

Warbirds
1
Tim Jester Do you thin this with water or laquer thinner?

1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I should yell at you for not knowing this
already Tim... ;)
These are water-based acrylics that work best with their
own thinner. Don't use LT with them, and they can thin
fine with water, especially for brush painting, but it's not
needed for HS chipping, etc. like Tamiya's thinned with
water.
2
Tim Jester I smacked my hand for you! Thanks. I just can't

keep this straight in my head.
1
Majid Mansoor Rinaldi Studio that's good to know about

HS chipping thx
1
BJ DeBekker Are you spraying with .5mm or .3mm tips.. I have

not been able to get good coverage/spray with a .3mm tip no
matter what pressure and what AB.. I have tried on 3 different
ABs (Sparmax,Grex, and a Brand new Badger)
No issues at all with my .5mm Omni. (I think we discussed this
once before).
Page 18 of 23
once before).
I am wondering as I live at 7000feet elevation and I have always
had to adjust my paints for higher elevations.
It has not scared me away from MM paints though (Just ordered
in another $100 worth this week) It is the only primer I will use
now (2 parts Black 1 part Red Ox)
Had a Happy accident as Bob Ross would say. It looks like I may
have laid it on too thick and it cracked, could you confirm or
would this be a HS Issues. I kinda want to know more so I can
repeat the problem :)
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio All of my airbrushes are .2-.35mm, I don't
even own a .5mm AB, being my usual scales are 1/35 -
1/72, and I've not experienced blockage or clogging with
MMP so far. I suspect a few things at work here, some
may be the process and technique of distance and some
other factors.
I suppose the altitude is affecting things for you, you're

definitely pretty high up and it affects so much, humidity,
air pressure, and so forth. You need a baseline of what
works for you -- what paints are working, types of
chemicals, and what is the process (specifics please). Are
you using their thinner, and if so what ratios?
As for the cracking, if it's HS underneath... yes, too wet is

more likely the culprit than too much paint. Hitting it with a
wet coat will often activate it, and then it suffocates and
when dried fast can easily crack. That said, some guys
like Chuck Chuck Down use this to great advantage.
1
BJ DeBekker Rinaldi Studio Before using MM as my go to

primer I use to use PPG High Build Primer reduced 100 to
150% with slow reducer or Acetone.. But that is a Mute
point now.
The only other Hobby Brand Paint I spray is Tamiya
reduced 50% +_ with 95% IPA..
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Yikes, it's been years since my acetone
days... haha, you crack me up, it's a lot of 20th Century
chemicals. ;)
That explains some things, I also left behind thinning
Tamiya with 95% IPA days years ago -- it was just
Page 19 of 23
Tamiya with 95% IPA days years ago -- it was just
struggles upon struggles for true spraying enjoyment,
especially in hot dry climates I am in. It dries so fast, it
causes all sorts of minor clogging and surface texture
problems. It requires an even greater amount of precision
and is not the most forgiving thinner, contrary to many
believe. It's so cheap to buy, we like to accept it as a go
to.
I am happy you are using the MMP primers though, I have
some test samples that were literally impossible to remove
or scratch with anything short of a sharp object. It gives
up nothing to my usual Mr. Surfacer 1200 favorite, and
now I don't have to go outdoors anymore to prime. Win-
win!
My recommendations is set up a proper test. Use one AB

for one paint brand, spray as it you do to get it to work in
your location/environment properly. Use that as your
baseline, and assume you know this formula well. Work
with the smaller tip airbrushes too. Do the same with
MMP, start with the prescribed thinning of 2-3 drops of
thinner per 10 drops of MMP paint. Add a drop of Poly if
you have it, just make a very precise batch. If you can
spray the MMP primer, you shouldn't be having any
trouble spraying the paint. Overall, find the right ratio for
you and go from there. I suggest the new Badger since I
assume only MMP have been sprayed through it. We need
to get them to work for your setup, I'd start at 15 psi,
about 1-2" from the surface...work on paper, etc. to get it
spraying then a test piece with contours and surface
irregularities. You should be able to compare the two and
begin adjusting to get MMP to work for you, whether it is
more thinner, Poly, or higher/lower air pressures. If the
Ab's are very clean, I see no reason for spraying issues
once you dial it all in.
Jason D. Reece Any special prep required for brass models or

does the MM primers provide enough adhesion on metals?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio No, it works the same as any paint brand in
covering metal with their primer and then painting away.
MMP primer is designed for all hobby mediums -- it
covers resin, metal and plastics equally well.
Proper surface prep is critical for any project, regardless
of paint used and base material. Removal of oils, and
other chemical residues, will be critical to the paint's
application and adhesion.
1
Jason D. Reece A standard vinegar bath after a full clean

should do the trick as it provides a good etched layer for
Page 20 of 23
should do the trick as it provides a good etched layer for
enamels - was just curious if you had any different
experiences with adhesion on MM primers on materials
other than plastic. Getting ready for a paint session this
week - so trying to be as prepared as possible for the
unknowns....Thx!
1
BJ DeBekker Jason D. Reece

I can confirm for you that this is one of the best primers I
have ever used on Resins (Printed and/or Cast) that does
not use caustic reducers (Single or 2 stage) Finally
stopped using the old Acetone Based Primers and
replaced them with MM.. Now If I could only get by the
Gallon for my Shop. :)
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Jason D. Reece I'm sure your usual prep

procedures will work fine I'd say. ;)
Brent M Nelson I used Mission Models Olive Drab about a month

ago. I found that it was best to spray it directly out of the bottle
with no thinning.
Will this be the case with all colors?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I suppose everyone is a little different, but
truthfully that is just not my experience. That said, I can
use it from a range of thinning depending on what I'm
doing/needs. I don't recommend direct applications
typically because you (the modeler) can lay down too
much paint too fast, which leads to many issues in quality
of the finish.
Whenever, I start a paintjob, I always thin the paint I'm
using, even those designed as pre-thinned in the bottle. I
almost never use a paint neat, so a lot of what you are
saying depends largely on your setup, and how you spray.
Plus, what you are considering good coverage is

subjective without seeing what we are talking about. It'd
be a huge help to see some photos whenever possible.
J.Diego Rios Hello. I buy a set of Mmp from amazon Mexico.

However I need white color to do a modulation mix. I cannot find
it at Mexico. Is there any chanse to use paint from other brand
with mmp?
1
Page 21 of 23
Author
Rinaldi Studio Can you not just buy MMP White? Mission
Models ships internationally for good prices, a small order
wouldn't be too expensive.
For some of you out there, you know we can cheat and
get away with mixing various brands across one another,
even different chemical types can be mixed with limited
success. I'd say if you HAD to use something else,
Lifecolor would be the one I'd try if you needed
compatibility.
Otherwise, just stick to one brand, and I say this for most
of the known brands. It's just easier in the end. That said,
and you fellas know who you are, experience makes a big
difference in this type of maneuver.
J.Diego Rios Am going to buy mmp from your web.

Thanks
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio I should point out that the bottles are full 1
oz. (30 ml) of pure paint, and this will last a long time
without a breakdown in their shelf life that can happen
with pre-thinned paint. Once you add a thinner or reducer
to paint, it begins to shorten its useful life span.
Therefore, at twice the size bottle of pure paint, there is a
lot of value to MMP from a long term cost use.
1
Cliff Herring Have you used the transparent medium at all? Jon
said to tint the medium rather than adding the medium to a
color. I ask because I plan on doing some masking here in the
near future, and to guard against any seepage under the tape, I
thought of maybe using the transparent medium versus one of
the top coats as a preventive measure.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Transparent Medium is a paint, not a
varnish, so if a protection layer is what you want, go with a
varnish. But I may not understand your intent clearly, I
don't normally seal a mask/tape's edge, if that is what you
mean?
TM is basically clear paint, and Jon is correct is that

tinting is a better way to use it, like a filter or glaze layers.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Cliff Herring That is what I meant, sealing the edge. I was

thinking if its clear, it will seal any gaps and then I can go
back with my color and not have to worry about any loose
Page 22 of 23
edges on the mask. Basically the same as using a varnish
to prevent the same. In theory it should work.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Agreed, I think what you're after should
work just fine. Keep me posted! Always good additional
usage info with products like the Transparent Medium.
Cheers!
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Cliff Herring Cheers to you as well. Like what you are

doing and I LOVE the paint.
1
Majid Mansoor TY so much you answered my Questions above I

absolutely love this paint! I look fwd to these sessions thx
Michael
1
Page 23 of 23
Rinaldi Studio
July 6, 2018 ·
Hi guys -- RSP Q&A #19

DECALS & MARKINGS
The 19th RSP Q&A Session is now open from
12PM - 2PM (West Coast US)
Please ask any questions related to using decals, stencils, masks, tape,
solvents, trouble shooting, etc. (Please post photos of your work to help
me answer questions.)
These sessions are technique discussions designed to expand the
areas I need to explain better, both here, and in future books.
The more you ask, the better the session is!
Thank you, Michael, RSP
Page 1 of 11
All Comments
Author
Rinaldi Studio Thank you guys, lots of great questions today!
Really happy to see that, and cheers to Nathan Ram for loading
it up, all good things to ask. Feel free to add more guys, I'll
answer as I see them and have a great weekend everyone!
4
Like · Reply · 1y
Łukasz Łotko Hey Michael! Two questions.
Since you avoid using varnishes, how do you deal with laying
decals over flat paints?
Secondly, do you ever run into an issue of oils 'not sticking' over
the decals? I've noticed this a lot with Bandai decals - even if
they look seamless after flat varnish, oils often leave a brighter
spot where the decal film is. Could this just be the matter of
using too much thinner? I find this one very problematic, since I
love having a ton of little warning decals on my mecha kits.
Speaking of, can't wait for Mecha Art!
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I avoid using varnishes -- when I can. It's

not a hard rule, just a personal preference.
When applying decals on top of flat paints, burnishing the
spot(s) prior to adding the decal is highly effective. Along
with good setting solutions too.
The paint job must be properly applied and smooth,
orange peel, or any texture will cause silvering even with a
gloss underneath, so airbrushing skills matter. You might
have to color sand first if you have paint issues, the better
the surface quality is the better the decals will look.
Page 2 of 11
I have encountered that problem actually, (some of small
Sazbi decals fought me a bit), and it must be something in
regards to the chemical interaction between the oil and
surface of the decal. My thought is the flat varnish on top
is still too porous and allows some of the oils to touch the
shiny plastic(?) decal surface and not reacting like it does
over paint (re. the awkward color shift you mention).
I think the best idea is to gently sand the decals with fine
fine sanding sticks or paper, something like 2000+ so it
knocks that gloss top layer off, and then flat coat over
that. For really clean mech builds, this is something I
thought about doing in general to reduce the thickness of
those Bandai and other Gundam decals (they don't have
the fine Cartograf sheets like the military crowd gets so
it's a thing for real. Tamiya and Hasegawa are also quick
thick too, and sanding is not a bad idea.)
This is how I'd attack that issue. Again, which is why the
decal step is one of my least favorite part of all of this.
After endlessly sanding road wheel seams on tank kits.
Lol.. :)
2
Łukasz Łotko I don't mind it, but still need to spread

application over a few days to carefully think over the
placement. :)
Light sanding seems like a reasonable (if time consuming)
suggestion. I'll try it out next time around. Cheers!
As far as aftermarket decals go, I love the quality print of

HiQ, though they're rather thick as well. Still got a few
other brands try out though.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Łukasz Łotko When you see a Cartograf

sheet up close, you'll release the Gundam genre could
really use them. They are usually pretty exquisite and the
standard. Super thin, accurate colors, opaque, and very
sharp text when small.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram What are your tips for creating stencils?

2
Author
Rinaldi Studio I use Adobe Illustrator if I must create a

stencil. Print on durable paper if you can.
Page 3 of 11
stencil. Print on durable paper if you can.
Otherwise, I purchase them from a number of aftermarket
companies that do a much better job than me and have
the right material + equipment to die-cut them properly.
Eduard, DN Models and others all make pretty good stuff.
Avoid the metal PE ones most of the time, they DO NOT

lay flat of surface details and can be a real pain to use
because they are both solid opaque and hard to place
properly (especially the old Lion Roar numbers, etc).
While they are durable and easy to clean, I much prefer
translucent stencils that allow me to see where it's going
on. This is critical when trying to apply a serial number or
tank one element at a time. PE masks are useful on a case
by case basis, but mostly I try to work with the vinyl/tape
type of brands.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram That's it for now, I'll come up with some more
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Cheers! This stuff is some of my least

favorite activities, and being patient is the single most
important thing. Do NOT rush decal time. Go slow, make
sure the decal sheet is good quality.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
John Paty Is there anything you can do about silvering after it

occurs, like around these numbers on the glacis? Perhaps
disguise it with a bit of oil paint?
Author
Rinaldi Studio Yes, two options. Carefully slice the

surface with a new life blade, just enough to go through
the decal only and alongside the numbers, then add a
Page 4 of 11
the decal only and alongside the numbers, then add a
small amount of the Micro Sol/Mr. Softer chemical to it
and see if it can snuggle it down better. The cut allows it
to work under the decal too.
Or carefully respray around the numbers, masking off the
black if you can. And/or painting with oils, as you suggest.
I did this on the side number decals for the S-65 tractor in
SM02, they were super old decals, silvered a little too, (I
should have masked the number instead), and had to
bandaid it with some OPR work right up close. It worked
well though, you'd have to know it was there to even spot
it.
Or a combo of both solutions might be needed.

2
Nathan Ram When masking with fluid mask, how do you apply it
and then remove it without damaging the surrounding areas?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Carefully... if the cap brush is too large, use

an cheap but small and sharp brush and paint it on like
paint. Removal is usually with tweezers to lift the edge and
carefully remove it. Again, nothing special or hard, just the
right tools and patience mostly.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Dan Kraus Ever use something like a Silhouette cutter to

print/cut your own decals? I was wondering about designing a
stencil in Illustrator and then running one of the square sheets of
Tamiya masking tape through it to cut stencils for masking.
Quite possibly over complicating than just printing on regular

paper and tracing over it with a knife on the paper. Curious if you
or anyone has seen it done before.
If you're not familiar. It's basically a CNC router with a sharp
knife instead of a router bit and rollers to pass paper or vinyl and
the like through it. Big with scrapbookers :)
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I rarely ever print my own decals. I don't

have anything more than a simple Epson inkjet so it's
mostly just basic forms if I do.
A suggestion is lay down sheets of wide Tamiya tape onto
a cutting mat. Lay the paper image on top, tape it down so
it doesn't move, then careful cut out the shapes needed.
This will transfer to the tape below, it will automatically be
de-tacked from the mat, and then you can use it to mask
off whatever you are doing. This is great for hard-edge
Page 5 of 11
off whatever you are doing. This is great for hard-edge
camo schemes, for example.
Or I do the same and simply draw on the tape itself, then
cut it out. Same basic idea.
There are so many guys providing masks/stecnils/etc, I
don't have the need most of the time anymore (and some
will make custom stuff too).
If it's possible, I will brush paint too. I have done this quite
a bit, for that painted in the field look, but it does take
practice, skill, and knowing how to paint numbers and
letters. David Parker is also excellent at this too.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Dan Kraus I think I stated my question wrong, but you got

the gist of it :) I meant using a Silhouette(or Cricut is
another) to cut stencils - not decals. My bet is that people
who are providing selling stencil paint masks are using
something like that.
Going … See More

1
Jonathan Campbell Dan Kraus Here's a video I watched a

few days ago of a guy using a Cricut to make digital camo
stencils. They look fantastic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6bEBWt9nw0
YOUTUBE.COM
Cricut Explore Air 2 Review and

Demo for scale modelling
2
Dan Kraus Thanks Jonathan Campbell I will check it out. I

like when readers also contribute to these too!
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Jonathan Campbell Cool stuff! I love all the

tech involved, and Dan we're on the same page. I would
print the stencils then cut them out over tape, but having
someone or a company do it for me on a flexible sticky
substrate would be much more ideal!
Like · Reply · 1y
Page 6 of 11
Nathan Ram What is the absolute best way to cut decals? What
tools should I use?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I love my Tamiya Decal Scissors or a sharp

brand new hobby (X-Acto #11) blade in my holder. Always
use new blades whenever you can. Buy the very cheap
100 blade boxes from your supplier and this will last years.
3
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram How do you apply really small decals, like "lift here"
ones?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Get yourself some very sharp hi-end

electrical type of tweezers. Look at Wilder, he sells some
great ones and I use various ones a lot.
Put the decal in water, prep the surface with Setter, then
using the tweezers hold the back of the decal (it's good to
have some overhang to grip it from) along the edge, and
then use a dull or old hobby knife (or fine tip brush too),
and very carefully pull or push the decal onto the model
(obviously, holding steady with the decal right next to the
spot on the model for it to slide, more or less, in place).
It takes some practice, but after you've done this step a
couple of times, it becomes habit. It's very tedious stuff
though...yawn, lol.
3
Nathan Ram How would you spray something like a US star? Do

you weather it like the rest of the model or mask it? What
colors/paints are best for this?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Yes, all the time. I try to spray markings any
time that I can. I personally am not a decal fan. I kinda
hate the whole deal and the involved process.
And for the that very reason, its WAY EASIER to weather
(sprayed lighter for more faded look too) th… See More
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Sylvain Plante On this matter Michael Rinaldi, do you

mask, HS, paint or you HS, mask and then paint?
1
Page 7 of 11
1
Michael Rinaldi Sylvain Plante it does matter much if you

HS first or mask first, a simple spot spray is all that’s
needed. Personally, I HS first so I know the whole star is
going to have it underneath, and paint and chip/wear it.
1
Jonathan Campbell What's your preferred decal solutions and

flat coats?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Decal solution is the Gunze Mr. Mark Setter

to help place the decal and wet the surface. Mr. Mark
Softer for the follow up to snug it down.
They work better on the Japanese kit decals than

MicroSol does, but I use that for the rest too. Just
depends on the decal sheet in play.
Have both sets of chemicals.
Flat coats, I've had success with Mission Models new one,
and AK's Ultramatt. I use MMP all the time, so that's my
go to for clear coats too. I keep the AK as backup.
The KEY TRICK with flats, regardless of brand, is lay it

down in very thin light dust coats. Wet flat coats don't dry
matte. You must be much finer and more gradual with it.
Flat (aka matte) is defined by the surface having a texture

to it to refract the incoming light. Smooth is reflective,
thus shiny...which is why gloss coats are very smooth.
Therefore you must introduce the texture to the flat coat
while spraying and avoid wet coats.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Jonathan Campbell Thanks. I've got the Mr. products as

well as Walthers Solvaset, which people tell me is really
strong.
So far, I haven't had luck with Mission Models flat, even
with light coats. But I have had luck with Mig Ammo's
Lucky Matt Varnish. So I'll try some more with light coats
and see how they turn out. I really don't want a dead flat in
most cases (like Testors Dullcoat), just something that
removes most of the shine.
Thanks!
1
Page 8 of 11
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Jonathan Campbell Be cautious of distance

from the model, varnishes are very sensitive to this, and
shake the bottle really well.
If you live in a cold region, or ordered it over winter where

it may have been exposed to very cold or freezing temps
this can affect varnish chemicals a lot.
Also, trying various thinning ratios too.

2
Like · Reply · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio I will also add, the words flat, semi-gloss

and gloss mean different things to different people. This is
one of those more subtle things we don't discuss
specifically often.
For example, when I say "tiny" it has a specific value to

me, but it means different things to others and what they
interpret as tiny, say when applying oil paint.
If you've ever sprayed a lot of different brands of
varnishes, you will know there are widely different levels
to matte from all the flat varnishes out there. Spray the
older AK Flat Varnish vs the newer Ultramatte Flat Varnish
and so on, with most companies requiring learning the
trick of the brand to get it to perform best.
Talc is typically the number 1 ingredient to making flat
varnishes and how much is inside a bottle varies from
brand to brand. I tend to have a couple of brands handy
that I trust, and it took time and lot of ruined models to
find this out.
The struggle of varnishes is one of the main reasons I

moved away from them and down a different process path
to avoid them whenever possible. Working differently
became smarter, more efficient, with superior end results
versus a lot of classical type of steps and products. It's
the achilles heel of this hobby, ideas decades old that are
often not as good as we all think, and there are
better/easier ways available to us then sticking to these
sometimes archaic processes/products. Just a sidebar of
thoughts on all of that. ;)
4
Like · Reply · 1y
Matt Flegal What are your thoughts about using gloss

paint (either by finding gloss paint or using additives) to
your paint to minimize the varnish overlays? I've never
tried it but I know a few modellers who swear by this.
1
Page 9 of 11
Author
Rinaldi Studio Matt Flegal Check out the KV-1 build in TA2
Allied Armor, I do jus this process very intentional to avoid
a top coat. Adding a gloss element into a paint job is my
preferred process versus spraying a gloss on top. In fact, I
haven't sprayed a gloss on top in years. I almost always
add it into the paint, it's easier, more efficient, and most
importantly, the in-scale gloss effect is spot on most of
the time.
Again spraying a gloss on top is old school thinking and
not in the best of ways IMO. There are better processes, in
fact, simple cloth towel or old t-shirt burnishing is often
times much more effective overall, allows for non-silver
decals and improves the surface finish up close and looks
much better in-scale. I believe Spencer Pollard does this a
lot too on his aircraft to good effect.
I prefer adding the gloss into the paint mixture, or
burnishing over spraying a top coat. I get that some
decals need a good top coat and then you can work from
that, so it is sort of project driven and what's actually
going on. A F-4 Phantom project is very different to a KV-
1 in this aspect, so there is some give and take,
regardless. The mighty compromise lol. ;)
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram How (if possible) would you fix a decal? Whether it
has torn before application, or maybe after if you somehow
damaged it in weathering or scratching?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Working with mistakes is always a great

learning tool, and the better modelers out there know how
to process the errors and solve them. It's what separates
a lot of guys if you ask me.
That said, a decal error can be involved depending on
what the problem is. Wrongly placed is fairly easy to fix if
the decal has not dried yet. Rewetting with the Setting
solution and carefully pushing it with a brush or q-tip is a
good idea.
If the decal cracks and shatters, and is worthless, either

source a replacement or switch markings and use another
brand or sheet that is newer. Sometimes old decals or
those that weren't printed correctly can do this. It's a
tough one because you often get to this point after
painting and it can be frustrating. Usually you can find
Page 10 of 11
painting and it can be frustrating. Usually you can find
someone that has that sheet though via the internet.
If it's minor, one of the better ideas is to paint match the
colors and carefully touch it up if slightly damaged or
scratched. This is the best for most decal problems.
Otherwise, paint them on lol. ;)
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Page 11 of 11
Rinaldi Studio
July 13, 2018 ·
Hi guys -- RSP Q&A #20

COLOR MODULATION
The 20th RSP Q&A Session is now open from
12PM - 2PM (West Coast US)
Please ask any questions related to working in the color modulation
style, airbrushing gradations, painting smaller details, color choices,
trouble shooting, etc. (Please post photos of your work to help me
answer questions.)
Page 1 of 7
All Comments
John Paty Is there any way to judge how light the base color
should be since it will be darkened somewhat by weathering? I
feel like this model ended up a couple of shades too light.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Yes, given my limited knowledge of the

various MBT-70 schemes, this does look pretty light,
almost IDF colors to be honest.
The best answer is run a test prior to painting. I always
suggest that if you are unsure of what the process order
will result in, regardless of technique or products used,
then set up a test sample.
You can see how combinations of colors would turn out
before spraying the actual model. Trust me, this is far
more important a task than a lot of guys want to admit and
will give you the best answer every time.
That said, you can honestly respray right over this color
and and then reapply the earth effects back on top in the
Page 2 of 7
and and then reapply the earth effects back on top in the
same sections. No one will notice, you reapply the
pigments over what was lost and it'll turn out fine. I've
done it before!
2
Like · Reply · 1y
John Paty Thanks! 1
Matt Flegal What modifications (if any) would you suggest for
color modulation for aircraft? My 11 year old daughter and I are
building a 1/48 b-17 and she is deeply in love with the more
pronounced color modulations she's seen in daddy''s books. . .
We've played a little bit but with so few corners and so many
curves in all three axis it looks unpleasing.
1
View 2 more replies
Author
Rinaldi Studio Matt Flegal tackle in a simple manner,

choose or make shades lighter and darker than the base
color. CM is basic in the core colors have light and dark
tones, I would either start with the lighter and get two
progressively darker ones, or make the base color the
middle tone. Beyond that there is nothing tricky you need
to do differently versus a dunkelgelb or green scheme.
Like · Reply · 1y
Jonathan Campbell I got one for ya. So I like doing hairspray

chipping and I like doing modulation. But I worry about if I do
modulation, then the paint layers might be too thick and not chip
as easily. Have you ever had that problem?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio This is true, and you must keep that in

mind. Honestly, you're on the fringes of what HS can
handle by forcing it into CM, especially if there layers and
layers of paint involved. Here, on this Ferdinand, I used
sponge chipping + micro hand painted chips to pull it off.
Sometimes, you need to compromise for one or the other.
If HS must be used, or that's your plan, then you really

need to ensure the painting is spot on and not too thick. I
know it sounds like a sales pitch, but Mission Models paint
can be applied that way with success, and would have
better results with HS + CM than saying using Tamiya,
which gets grainy on the long side from oblique angle
Page 3 of 7
which gets grainy on the long side from oblique angle
spraying (the result of the paint going farther across the
model, drying in midair landing with a pebbly texture,
when the airbrush is held at an oblique angle to the
surface being painted vs. the normal 90 deg angle it
should be held at).
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Jonathan Campbell Thank you. That makes sense. I'm

trying more Mission Models paint and the lacquer MRP as
well, just to see how they work. It's a learning curve. But
I'm glad I'm not the only one who has difficulty doing both
HS & CM. Thanks!
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Jonathan Campbell It's a slippery slope.

And with lacquers you will need to work faster since they
cure quicker. The trick to all of this is to really get good at
laying down the paint thin, then you have hopes the HS
will work.
Don't fret a real build, I'd definitely do a couple of cheap
OOB builds, or series of test models to get it down pat.
Better to ruin them then a full build you really want to pull
it off on first.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram How do you address chipping in modulated paint

job? I mean, the chips must look different (I think)
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio See my answer above to Jonathon's

question on HS chipping + CM, it's basically the same
thought. I feel going with a sponge chipping + micro
painting would give you really good results. See Adam's
work with this too, it's easiest path to follow.
That said, a properly sprayed CM paint job can be HS
chipped, especially along sharp edges and where the
paint is only 1-2 layers thick.
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram Would you spray all the layers at + - the same
distance? What color primer is best for this technique?
1
Page 4 of 7
Author
Rinaldi Studio After the first color is down, you start to

apply graduations of colors to layer it up in this manner.
Each layer is less than the previous one, keeping some of
the previous work viewable... so it will depend on the
colors, and what the gradations are trying to achieve.
Usually, I keep th airbrush relatively the same distance
from the model and work with the angle of it, relative to
the model's surface, to spray the transitions.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio Primer color doesn’t really matter much

unless you plan to show a lot of it underneath. My go to is
a grey.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram How would you create a modulation or variation in

the paint in a 2 or even 3 tone camouflage?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio This was my first real take at it with a 2-

tone scheme, (and 3-tone would basically be treated the
same in this fashion trying to create this specific look).
http://www.missing-
lynx.com/art.../other/modulationmr_1.html
MISSING-LYNX.COM
Ferdinand Painting, Color
Modulation Style by Mike Rinaldi
2
Like · Reply · Remove Preview · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio I wasn't very happy with how the pigments

got really dark, but I was trying to darken the lower areas
in general from the lighting point-of-view. It was sort of
successful, but shows how tricky it can really be when you
try to finish off the whole project in this manner. I would
go less pigments next time if I were to try and replicate
this one.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Gábor Bélik The same way you do it with one color. Bit
Page 5 of 7
Gábor Bélik The same way you do it with one color. Bit
more work but worth it.
1
Nathan Ram What is color modulation? Is it just to represent the

scale effect of light/shadow on the model? I always felt it was a
bit unrealistic
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Hi Nathan, thanks! Start here...I believe this

is the first officially published article by Adam and Mig on
it.
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload...
ARMORAMA.COM
Armorama :: Colour Modulation
by Adam Wilder
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio CM is a style, so that means taste and

personal preference come into being. I treat it very
different to what the bulk of CM builds have turned into. I
agree, like anything it can easily go sideways and look
quite out of bounds with reality, but reality is not what CM
is designed to do.
It's, in the least, a greatly enhanced reality, and when

done well can really make a project very unique and
original, (which to me it's real strength).
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram Well I'll kick this off with a general question
Page 6 of 7
Rinaldi Studio
August 10, 2018 ·
RSP Q&A #25

AIRBRUSHING 101
Hi guys -- The 25th RSP Q&A Session is now open from
12PM - 2PM (West Coast US).
Please ask any questions related to painting your models (any subject)
with an airbrush, applications, products, techniques, trouble shooting,
etc. (Please post photos of your work to help me answer questions.)
Page 1 of 18
All Comments
Author
Rinaldi Studio Wayne Dippold I don’t have an answer from afar
why it works for one and not another. I’d have to use your stuff
to give a real answer beyond anything else. I don’t see the
thinning problems when I spray that you have with one extra
drop of thinner, and I would guess the bottle wasn’t fully mixed
and had settled more than you thought? Only thing that makes
sense of what you describe.
Maybe the pressure was too high during that session and it got
away from you?
I’ve had recent practice sessions with MMP on spraying 50-50

with poly and thinner added for various finish levels, and while
very thin it lays down amazing. I’m thinking car level finish for
stuff like that, so I’ve used it well over the limits advises without
issues. It almost makes me want you to send me your airbrush
and bottle to see what is happening, like an airbrush doctor lol.
But we hear this with all the acrylics at some point or another if
we’re honest and been on the Internet a while. Spraying MMP
high on my video how to list to show. I find it very flexible in my
tests that I’ve put it through, at least as flexible as anything else
I’ve used, so it’s odd when it’s not working for others.
Are you saying it’s a consistent issue? What’s the other
variables? Can you share photos of the results at all?
Wayne Dippold I will get it figured out, I was just in the

middle of a project for a magazine article and decided to
try MMP. In hindsight this probably was not the best time
to start experimenting.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Please keep me posted and let's see if we
can solve it for you. Cheers!
Like · Reply · 1y
Erlend Sæbø First off, I really love your books and they have
taught me a lot. Something I keep wondering about though is
your preferences on varnish when working with oils. I can’t seem
to find where you state what you use - for instance flat / matte,
satin or gloss.
Also thanks for the mission models paint info. I am currently
using MRP laquer with no issues, but I do use a mask and a
https://www.facebook.com/pg/RinaldiStudio/posts/?ref=page_internal Page 2 of 18
using MRP laquer with no issues, but I do use a mask and a
ventilator and it’s kind of annoying. Might have to pick up some
MMP for a tank project down the road.
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio Typically, if I do NOT mention something
then is precisely the case of me not doing that task or
using it. I avoid varnishes like the plague lol, they kill off all
the sheen that is developed from the various weathering,
and once that occurs, it is back to ground zero.
High level finishes have a lot of variation in sheens, and
varnishes will level that out, destroying what is nearly
impossible to get back.
When I do use one, I try hard as I can to spray it as early in

the painting as possible. Decals would dictate some of
that, but even then I will spray mask paint markings
whenever I can anyway.
Spot varnishes are more common for me, but from "I
spray a varnish to protect the paint to use oils, etc" is not
a necessity. IMO that is probably the biggest lie told in the
hobby re. painting & weathering.
The reason is... simply use less chemicals. Study how

MUCH I am using, look at the brush and read the text, I
often describe the amounts I work with. SM02/SM03
really get into this part with the SBS in the OPR stages.
(And yes, videos are coming that will reinforce all of this
for you guys).
But basically, reduce the amount of liquid on a brush by
unloading on a paper towel prior to touching the model,
work slower, more efficiently, and you will never need a
varnish for protection from weathering. In fact, I cannot
recall a project I used a varnish for that specific reason. If
you have TA1 or TA4, they both go over Technique
Proficiency well, and study those chapters again to see
what I mean.
Also, a lot depends on the airbrushing stage too. The finer

and better the paint job is, the less issues you will have
down the road. They go hand in hand, and make sure the
painting is up to par too.
Lastly, I almost forgot to say this, when you use oils over
satin and gloss surfaces they just push around and won't
do what you want. You actually need some surface bite to
allow them to diffuse properly or streak really fine. Oils
need something to grip on to, and the more gloss a
surface is the less thinner you can use. In fact, you will
often apply them neat (no thinner at all) on a gloss to give
them as much surface tension as possible for work on
glossy paints.
This is another crucial element to successful OPR, I often
forget to mention simply because I never use gloss + oils.
1
Erlend Sæbø Rinaldi Studio im guessing MMP helps here

Page 3 of 18
Erlend Sæbø Rinaldi Studio im guessing MMP helps here
because it doesn’t react to oils and high quality thinner for
working / dragging paint around. I’ve had issues with
ruining the paint beneath when working with oils, so I try
to “lock in” my work like a photoshop filter to avoid that.
I’d also assume that using oils on oils even with good
curing time of the oil would “reopen” it when using
mineral spirits to thin and move it around.
Videos would be amazing, and I obviously need more of
your books.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio In truth, I’ve never had oil paints react to
any base coat I’ve used. A guide is to control the quantity
you are applying, especially the thinner. I only ever use
Odourless Thinners, which are a higher grade and less
caustic then other general thinners. But, the key part is
how much. I never flood the surface, or overwhelm the
model. This is where you need to study the book(s), pay
close attention in the photos how little is really being
used, that is why I never ruin paint jobs with oils, or even
enamels. It has nothing to do with MMP, I am speaking in
overall use of oils/enamels over acrylics. It’s a time
honored process that is straight up reliable when we work
smarter.
Practice cutting back on your amount(s) applied, I always

unload the brush first before touching the surface, and
you should see a dramatic decrease in any damages.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram What pressure(s) do you use? I know this is a very

general question, but I'm looking for a general answer
something to use as a guide. Like what would you use for a
primer which tends to be heavier than an acrylic paint (let's say
tamyia)
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Start with around 15-20psi, if you'r din a
hot climate play with this since tip drying will be a bigger
issue. You may need to slightly thin more than you think,
and go for lighter thinner coats too. You'll have better
chance at success this way. Some will depend on the
compressor and your air line setup, moisture traps, MAC
valve, etc. and the type of equipment. This is a loose
pressure guide for you.
Up the pressure to 18-22psi for a thicker liquid. Important
note is to develop a guideline for your setup in your
workshop and global region. Humidity and temperature
play a part, so dedicate some practice time to just getting
this down. Each brand of paint thins out differently, some
are best at 50-50, some at only 10 or 20% thinned. Lots of
Page 4 of 18
variables in play, and give yourself proper testing time to
figure it all out.
3
Like · Reply · 1y
Harold Quill Thanks for your feed Mike. Just got a new Iwata
airbrush. Will dedicate it to MMP. As I bought all your German
colours. As we spell it here in New Zealand.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio That's awesome Harold Quill, great plan!
And yes, the commonwealth loves to add extra letters to
wourds lol ;) Cheers!
Like · Reply · 1y
Barry Clarke G'day. I'm hoping I'm not to late to jump on the
band wagon here. I'm looking to change my paints from tamiya
because I can't handle the smell any more. The smell has
recently started messing with my anxiety and it's getting to the
point where I'm looking at retiring for a while. I've tried life colour
but I can't get it to spray for the life of me. Does mmp have a
smell to it like tamiya? Even the caution labels set me off. I've
been wanting to try mmp for a while but I'm worried the label will
mess with my mind as well. (caution labels, I shouldn't read
them...)
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Haha, yes, the required safety labels really

pinched the graphics I planned and there is not a lot of
room left for all the fun stuff on a small bottle of paint! I
had designer anxiety lol
Re. Lifecolor smell is a subtle hint of chocolate to be

honest… See More
Like · Reply · 1y
Barry Clarke Thanks very much for the reply. I have LC's
rust set and I love the effect you can get with it. When
applying different colours wet I found stippling it with the
brush until almost dry you can get some very convincing
rust textures.
Unfortunately my local store has stopped stocking LC as it
wouldn't sell so anything I buy now will have to be online
also part of the reason for trying mmp as seeing your
photos I love the way the colours come out.
I can't thank you enough for your reply. I'll most definitely
be buying some mmp next pay and see if I can master it.
Thank you again
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Barry Clarke My pleasure and yes that is a
fantastic way to apply the rust LC paints. They perform
excellent in translucent layers like that.
1
Page 5 of 18
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Ian White Hi Mike, it seems your a Mission Models convert

which I must admit are an excellent paint system but I am
wondering what are your thoughts on the advantages they might
have over other paint systems in your experience with them so
far and also are there other sytems that hold an advantage over
them and if so in what circumstances.....TIA
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I think technically I am literally the first
official MMP convert. For clarification since some may not
know this, I worked with Mission Models at their old hobby
shop in LA back in '04-05, and when they came back and
wanted to re-enter the hobby with a new line of paint, I
was skeptical at first. I helped with initial color selections
and the graphic design/advertising of the brand. I don't
work for them in any capacity beyond that, nor have any
obligations to.
We all know how well lacquers spray, and Tamiya, Gunze,

Mr. Paint et al perform very well through the airbrush.
Some say enamels are better, like Humbrol, but it's too
close to call IMO, and those chemicals are the best for
pure spraying refinement, it's not a big argument really.
That said they are brutally toxic, and frankly should all be
banned (my personal opinion). Health/envirnoment is a
major concern and that is the reason I stopped using
lacquers. Masks and hobby spray booths are inadequate I
feel, and most of us don't use them properly, or at all. I
was guilty of the later, and to work with a respirator on is
counter to enjoying the hobby. The amount of painting I
do, and the need to be wearing one was awful.
There are simply better solutions out there, and Mission
Models leads that conversation. I'm over the whole
lacquer thing altogether, and I feel companies investing in
them, whether they make or are selling them retail, are
going to lose out in the near future. I've already had
government conversations about this topic and the EPA is
well aware of what is going on. Prop 65 is already
happening to hobby companies in CA, and will spread.
Don't be surprised when the whole "I can't get brand X in
the States anymore" happens soon. Remember when
Tamiya and Gunze were blocked because of incomplete
and out of date labels? Many of the "new" lacquer paints
haven't even bothered with proper certification... that will
be a path to being held accountable at the customs level.
Advantages? MMP are organic based (non-plastic based)
paint, similar to high-end art paints are made from (not
made from plastic polymer like latex and vinyl).
Why does this even matter? They have finer grains of

pigments compared to the dedicated acrylic paints and
that equals finer spraying qualities, less clogging (often A
Page 6 of 18
that equals finer spraying qualities, less clogging (often A
LOT less), and incredible self-leveling qualities. This is
why they rival lacquers and enamels in spraying quality,
and in experienced hands surpass it.
As a system with the Polyurethane Mix Additive you also
have the option to tackle other scale model project with a
finer, smoother and more durable finish. Perfect for
aircraft, cars, space, etc. that need a finer surface than
normal matte paints provide.
I have even applied decals directly over a Poly-mixed

MMP paint blend without the need to add a gloss varnish
and had no silvering, that is how smooth it is (silvering
happens when tiny pockets of air are trapped under the
decal because a true matte surface is a textured ((pitted))
surface, and why gloss is preferred for decals).
Clean up is easy with water and their thinner, and mixing
ratios around 20-30% thinned with their thinner is all that
is needed. It was the easiest switch I've ever had, and over
a year using them can't really speak to spraying issues
because I don't have any. I mean that.
I mostly stay out of the online paint conversations, but
after nearly two years of using MMP now, I feel there isn't
a paint out there that does everything I need it to for a
variety of projects better than MMP. Yes, with time and
experience they can all spray well, no questions. But it
doesn't change the fact for me I find MMP superior in
almost every way. I can produce fine lines with a .15/.18
just as well as Mr. Paint can (I used a HS and Iwata to test
this with). I repeated it without issue, which seems to be a
baseline for some guys out there.
I can create finer chips with it with HS vs. Tamiya, and this
comes for years of developing the methods to chip Tamiya
+ HS.
I can spray for 30-45mins straight before tip clogging

even begins to happen, some days when the humidity is
on point I don't have tip drying before a session ends. I
can't say that with most of the brands out there, and
without the harsh smells involved of time intensive lacquer
spraying.
Therefore, I can spray the tightest of camo schemes free
hand over a longer period of time, no headaches from the
smells, no skin irritation, and pretty pain free airbrushing. I
have a German UHU ready for it's night fighter
camo...meaning much less stress when it comes to that
part soon, coverage is awesome, and the surface
smoothness is unrivaled for a matte, even without the Poly
(which is how I use it a lot for armor stuff). Also noted for
those that have embraced black basing too, which is
hugely time intensive with the airbrush.
My experience to date, I've had less tip drying with MMP
than Tamiya + LT and Mr. Paint, and that's an important
note. All paints tip dry, but MMP without any bandaids is
the best acrylic I've used and I can spray longer and
farther without wasting time cleaning the tip with a Q-tip,
etc. And believe me, that kicks you out of your rhythm, it's
Page 7 of 18
etc. And believe me, that kicks you out of your rhythm, it's
a lot more enjoyable overall, and that is the part I like
most. It's more fun, less stress, without the headaches
from the fumes, as mentioned before.
I've also not had any issue with masks or paint lifting from
their primer, yes I typically de-tack tape beforehand too,
and I always prime my models no matter what. And from
my experiences with MMP Primer, it's as good as Mr.
Surfacer -- another lacquer-based product I don't use
anymore, and that's a win IMO. No more off gassing and
waiting for the fumes to die down, key for moving along at
a faster pace.
I don't brush paint a ton, but it equals Lifecolor in this
flexibility for gear and details, which was my previous go
to for one-brand-for-all-things paint. Vallejo is also superb
for brush painting, as we all know too.
Lastly, and a very useful tip if you can implement it ---
spray only one paint chemical type/brand through one
airbrush only. This will save time in cleaning, and reduce
residual chemical particles inside that can easily gum up
on a chem type switch. The internals of the AB will last
longer not being subjective to repeated heavy cleaning,
and after wearing the chrome out of two top line AB's from
so much cleaning that too has dropped way off after using
2-3 airbrushes instead of 1.
It's a good idea, and is advice given to help out, especially
when cleaning time is involved and how much is required
to clean airbrushes in multiple chemical sessions --
therefore I recommend to use dedicated airbrushes for
each brand you spray, and clogged airbrush issues will
dramatically drop away. If you paint a lot, I'd give this idea
some serious consideration long term.
For those of us that get tired of heavy cleaning when we

work with multiple variations and combination of paints &
thinners through the same airbrush, the level of cleaning
time and energy required goes up exponentially, and LT is
not the be all cleaner for everything.
I found when working with a dedicated airbrush per

chemical type this process cuts down on the time needed
to clean, and ALSO cuts down on most clogging issues
when switching from Tamiya to AK, for example. Does a
chemical switch always cause clogging? No, certainly not
all the time, but it does happen more often than I wanted
to and is a rather constant source of time consumption
and wasted energy and lack of efficiency.
I'm good at cleaning stuff, but this switch meant I spent a
lot more time spraying paint, having better spray patterns
and successful results more consistently, coupled with
less time cleaning. That's a huge win in my book, no
matter how good I am at cleaning the airbrush to switch
chemicals. It became a waste of time and I found myself
painting more as a result of going with 2-3 airbrushes.
It's not a must have thing by any means, but like a lot of
thing I focus on, it helps you guys perform better day in
and day out with a greater chance of getting the results
Page 8 of 18
and day out with a greater chance of getting the results
you're after in a reliable and consistent manner. Not
everyone is a great airbrush painter and this tip is a good
one to lend a hand for those that have clogging issues or
spend more time cleaning than painting because you have
more than one brand of paint on the bench. Plus, with the
kit stashes we all have, I'd think this would be the smarter
play long term for a more efficient workbench setup.
My comments above are geared for the general global
hobby, none if this is "must" or "absolute", mostly my own
choices based on the time I have to spend painting
models for 15 years, which is what RSP is mostly about.
I've fought headaches and chemical reactions largely
because of the onslaught of LT and now multiple lacquers
in the modeling side of the hobby since 2007, and if a new
product comes along that doesn't have that extra health
and safety baggage AND sprays as well as my previous
go-to paints, them I'm going to use it. Why would I not?
MMP has largely been responsible for ending the use of
lacquers as a paint for me, (Lifecolor/Vallejo to a point as
well), and OPR has completely ended my use of enamels
for weathering for a lot of the same reasons. Combine that
with the fact I have the same and/or better control and
precision with my chemical choices versus the other
chemical types available, and is what my advice and
recommendations are therefore based upon.
The end game is to up the enjoyment factors, become
more efficient with painting to further along completion
percentages, and get more from the projects we build,
and less struggles for the modelers out there.
I talk a lot in the books about the mental side of the

hobby, and not being stressed or worried, or anxieties
from using harsh chemical that is now a thing of the past
for me. It's really nice too. Like no stress nice, and why I
feel MMP is a brand to be considered for you guys.
8
Ian White Many thanks for the comprehensive answer,

much appreciated.....my only personal gripe is that I have
yet to master it in the same way that I have with Tamiya
but time will tell....thanks again
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio Ian White One thing we all need to
remember, is a switch is always going to take some
getting used to. No matter the brand to brand involved.
Sometimes it's more extreme than others, a lot will
depend on skill level and experience. We have to make the
adjustments needed and can't always use what worked for
one brand with another.
Just the nature of chemicals, and trust me, it ALWAYS
take me time to readjust to a different brand/process too. I
had to test Tamiya with LT a lot before I could find the
sweet spot. Same for any paint, but once we find it, it's
happy sailing most of the time after that.
Page 9 of 18
happy sailing most of the time after that.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Wayne Dippold How does humidity affect the ability to use this
paint? I have tried it and honestly have not been impressed. I
have thinned according to recommendations, 10-2, and it would
not push through the airbrush. I add a touch more thinner to a
10-3 ratio and it comes out like water. I know I must be doing
something wrong but it is getting expensive to experiment. I am
using an Iwata Eclipse and a CO2 tank for air.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio My honest guess is the airbrush, either you
are using other stuff through it beforehand and it's
causing reactions, and/or it's not as clean as you think it
is, which is often the reason for any paint to clog.
It's also hard for me because I simply hasn't clogged on

me or not worked. And I've used MMP in a few different
locations around the planet and in different seasons too. I
currently live in the PNW and have 4 distinct seasons and
it still just sprays easy for me.
Moist climates will slow drying down, and arid will make it
dry faster. I did most of my work for years in LA/Pasadena
beforehand, and this is very low humidity and would wreak
havoc with the other acrylic brands. I moved by the ocean
and suddenly things were much easier, so humidity does
play a part.
With acrylics, some basics are important. Definitely make
sure the bottles are properly mixed, (this is also key with
Vallejo, AK and AMMO and why the ball bearings
appeared to help mix them better). Also, if you come from
lacquers or enamels, definitely strip the AB down and
really clean the nuts off of it. Use a good tool lubricant
when reassembling things, every bit helps. Get the
delicate nozzle as clean as you can, this is the pass
through point and often will give issues, no matter the
brand of paint or airbrush.
I wish I could watch you guys do this, that would be an
enormous help. Someday in the near-ash future I'll move
to live video conversations and demos, but I'm going with
the airbrush.
That said, what paints can you spray well? What is the
ratio and your experience with them? I might be able to
extract a relationship to them and get this to work.
Another thought is to double check (and I'm not doubting
you), but do a very precise measuring session too. I saw
slightly thinner results at 30% but it didn't go water thin
on me either. Distance to the model should be around 2"
or so, 15-18psi for starters and spray light coats, just to
cover all bases lol.
Page 10 of 18
And lastly, my comment on spraying with only one
airbrush per chemical is important, I fought spraying
problems for years before going to mutlpe airbrushes.
Yes, it's more money, but it made the single biggest
difference in airbrushing for me. I would spend more time
cleaning than painting lol, thankfully that is not the case
anymore. So if you're making it a workhorse airbrush, the
variations will make itself known and this is my best guess
without seeing or using it myself.
Wayne Dippold I have used Model Master for years and is

my primary paint. I get good results with Tamiya acrylics,
lacquers, and Vallejo. I use the Iwata for everything and
have never had issues switching between different paints,
even during the same painting session.
1
Nathan Ram I assume you use a double action AB. When

spraying, do you manipulate the amount of pressing down (to let
the air flow) as well as pulling the trigger, or you go by the
micron air valve? I have trying playing with doing the 2 actions
together, but I find my finger would tire if I hold the trigger down
like half way, and when it does the sensitivity of pressing the
trigger down would deteriorate which makes everything moot
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I haven't used a single action airbrush
since the 80's lol. Yes, your finger will tire. It's like any
physical activity, if the muscles aren't used to it, expect it
to hurt later. That just goes away with time spent spraying,
not much you can really do about it.
Yes, push down for air and pull back for the paint release,
and the MAC valve just allows for a finer level of air
pressure in layman's terms. You really develop incredible
control with AB's so equipped and have them on all of my
setups. They are cheap and allow the AB + compressor to
perform better overall for a broader range of tasks.
Typically, you incorporate the MAC valve to refine the
spray pattern for delicate painting like fine lines, sharper
edges between colors, etc.
Lastly, use the handle with the adjustable needle stop.
What this does is lock the ability of the needle to go back
more, holding it open at that point for the type of spraying
you are doing, and this relieves the finger from having to
balance it just right (forward-to-backward on the trigger
pull). You press down, and pull back to the preset limiter,
and then it's pretty easy to spray for a while, especially
overall coats. I don't know the official name of those
handles, but you can tell by the adjustment knob at the
rear of the handle. I have them installed on my Iwata and
Tamiya airbrushes too.
Page 11 of 18
Tamiya airbrushes too.
3
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram I appreciate the detailed answer!

1
Nathan Ram When switching between paints, how do you flush

(if that is the term) your AB? Just spray thinner?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio See my last comment above to Ian. If you
can, don't use more than one paint brand per airbrush.
This will keep all those issues silent.
First, you need to clean the old paint out with what thinner
is recommended. Run a full flush until no color comes out,
and I would do a light breakdown, pull the needle, wipe it
down, and repeat the flush again. If possible use a neutral
thinner that won't react with the next paint you are
spraying. This should at least keep things from gumming
up and clogging if the paints are similar.
Be warned going from latex acrylic to a lacquer acrylic,

and vice versus is a recipe to clog. Almost guaranteed to
happen at some point.
3
Like · Reply · 1y
Jason Ro I am interested in modulation, but I have not had much

success. How much contrast should I have between coats of
paint?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I tend to lean towards lower amounts of
contrast. Each project will be different depending on color
scheme, but a 3 level tonal range is going to give you
most of what you need. Sometimes a 4th or 5th light or
dark layer is required. I go by feel, and here is an example
of my own using a Firefly.
Also, my Ferdinand CM article on Missing Lynx shows

good SBS for lighter colors. I followed Adam Wilder's
Jagdtiger build years ago closely to see the best ways to
proceed.
http://www.missing-
lynx.com/art.../other/modulationmr_1.html
Page 12 of 18
4
Like · Reply · 1y
Sebastian Schoof I just read your very comprehensive answer to

the mission models paint question and I have a sort of a follow
up question.
Seeing how you love the MM paints, do you ever try other
brands when they release me paints and if so what are your
thoughts? … See More
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio All of this happened very close to the same
time frame, and I had already publicly come out saying I
was done spraying lacquers. Not a critical comment
towards my friends at AK, which I have quite a few guys I
know pretty well, (and yes I felt bad I couldn't jump into
them because of that), BUT I had to stand my ground and
just say enough and no more for lacquers.
I realize it's not the popular choice, I know WHY we all

love em, trust me. It's just time for ME to move on,
because I do this for a living and paint A LOT (even when
you guys can't see it all that much right now), so a switch
to a safer product was a must.
I will still use Vallejo, Lifecolor, and Tamiya (with water for
certain things) over time, mostly because I have lots of
each here, but MMP has become the prominent paint in
my stash now. I haven't used much of the AK/AMMO
products these past few years, and I know they can
perform well, so my main tip is study info based on them,
and practice, practice, practice. I'm also looking at True
Earth stuff to see how they do for certain tasks, as well.
Truth is, with time, I can make any paint do what I want. It
really is about mileage, spraying and familiarity with the
qualities of the brand(s) you choose. Real Colors are
lacquers, that means they are very flexible and will spray
well, I can't see any reason they won't perform as
advertised.
Like · Reply · 1y
Sebastian Schoof I am not "smart" enough to get my

head around the different paint build ups... acrylics,
lacquer, alcohol enamel..acrylic-lacquers
I always had as a baseline that if they stink they are bad.
But it seems even that's not true anymore
There are just sooo many different companies and paint

types to choose from it's not getting any easier...
2

Page 13 of 18
JC Osborne Mike, how do you protect a substrate layer of MMP

from being impacted when you are chipping the top layer? As
both are “water based” how do you not chip through the
substrate paint?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio If you have trouble in this case, go ahead
and seal it. There's no hard rule for that, and many
modelers just like the peace of mind.
With HS, it's important to control the amount of water
going down. Often times it only requires the brush to be
damp, and if a lot of water is on the model that's not the
best approach. Chip in small sections, less water and with
more control. I have mentioned that MMP is more delicate
so I did have to adjust my pressures and how I hard I need
to scrub, but once I know this I can control things even
more by being lighter with the brush.
The Sazabi is 100% MMP and HS layered, I didn't have a

lot of problem cutting through. This can happen on sharp
edges in many cases, even with Tamiya, so I plan for it to
happen. Usually I prime it well, than I can touch up any
major damage without too much of a problem.
But once MMP cures and has been on a while, I didn't see
any issues with the base coats being chipped off too.
Quite the opposite, especially when Poly was used, which
really toughens it up. Add the Poly into the base and let it
cure, it's as tough as anything.
JC Osborne ahhh... yes the poly... hadn't thought of that!

Thanks, Mike!
1
Nathan Ram What needle size do you use, and if more than one
do you use 2 (or more) sizes on the same brush, or one brush
with 0.5 (as an example), another with 0.35, and so on?
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio Let's see, I have a .18, .2, and a few .3/.35.
Anything larger like a .5 is for bigger scales and I haven't
needed that size for a while. But that is related to my
preferred kit range, obviously in a general sense a 1/6
modeler would need a .5.
My main, or mostly used, size is likely the .3 for most 1/35

size models. Also, get some airbrush lube to keep them
properly lubed over time, o-rings will always dry out and
you're in the desert climate too. Iwata Medea sells some,
Page 14 of 18
you're in the desert climate too. Iwata Medea sells some,
and one tube lasts forever lol.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram You only say that because you never had a
tube melt in your toolbox...
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Nathan Ram I lived in Vegas for a while, I'd
hide all that stuff in the darkest coldest place I could find
lolol!
Like · Reply · 1y
Marc Sausner
Author
Rinaldi Studio Thank you Marc for the photo and that it is
a test piece! Truthfully, I love it, the whitewash is very well
applied and you have a clear and strong understanding of
what is happening and how it works.
The chipping is less convincing, I'm guessing it is from a
sponge? But it's not bad at all, nicely controlled, just not
quite up to the level of the whitewash effects. Since it's a
test piece, move into the oils for mapping with the white
and and continue with the general weathering. See what
you can do with the chips too, and adding even more
depth to the whitewash.
Again, very nicely done mate!

Like · Reply · 1y
Marc Sausner Rinaldi Studio thank you for the very kind
respond. I really appreciate it.
Well to tell the truth, it’s not sponge technique. It’s
Mission models paint over ammo of mig chipping fluid. I
still have trouble to achieve convincing results with hs-
technique. I am not sure if the hs itself or my airbrushed
basecoat is the problem. I personally think i apply the
Page 15 of 18
basecoat is the problem. I personally think i apply the
color too thick . Do you have any experience that
yellow mmp acts different then darker colors? i always
have trouble shooting them but just yellow color.
Maybe I need to apply thinner coats and trust in the
coverage abilities of the paint. How much time do I have
between hs-basecoat-chipping? 20-30min? Maybe I rush
the paintjob...
But again....thanks for all your advice. They help me to
improve a lot. I will keep up the work on the turret and
share progress later
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Marc Sausner Ah, okay great info! This
helps a lot. And now that you mention that, I can see
clearer what I am looking at. Dark yellow over a dark
brown (for the chips?). That's not a terrible result, don't
worry too much, it's very close!
Your top coat is opaque and that is a bigger challenge and
the harder part is spraying CF evenly with an airbrush.
That requires more practice versus the aerosol HS can,
which can be made very consistent.
Yellow, not dark yellow armor color, is one of the hardest
to work with. Typically, you have better results spraying
over a base of white, if you really want a bright strong
yellow.
I don't have any trouble spraying dunkelgeb yellow, light
or dark versions and any of the sand and tan colors, which
are all very close to one other. The only paint I will ever
have a problem, no matter the brand, is going to be white.
White pigments are the hardest to produce and usually
spray the worst comparatively to the other colors.
With HS/CF, once the layers are dry, then spray the top
coat and clean the airbrush, you can start to chip as soon
as you want. It's important to remember the HS/CF layers
need to be fully dry before applying the paint on top. I like
to use hair dryer to speed it up and ensure everything is
dry to the touch. You should be good to go after that!
Like · Reply · 1y
Page 16 of 18
Rinaldi Studio
November 24, 2018 ·
RSP Q&A SESSION 38

TOPIC: PAINTING
1pm-3pm Saturday (West Coast US)
Hi guys - the Q&A session is now open on PAINTING. Please ask
questions related to anything related to painting a model, primer,
basecoat, tools, products, trouble shooting, etc. Post photos when
possible, thanks!
This is a technique discussion opportunity to further help explain the
processes and diagnose any issue you might have. It will help me write
improved books in the future too.
Cheers! Michael - RSP
Page 1 of 14
All Comments
Author
Rinaldi Studio Erik Williams How do you create masks from

references that end up being accurate? Particularly when you
need to make your own camo masks that bend around corners
and go around curves -- I find that the masks I make are never
accurate, and tend to be out of scale and go in random
directions around a curve/corner. Any tips, tricks, or resources
would be great.
That's definitely a harder one, especially if your stuck with 2D

plans only for a 3D object. I have a project that I'm actually
doing that with and what I did was print the plans out in 1/35,
taped it over a series of Tamiya tape I put on my cutting mat and
carefully cut the camp patterns out. Then I used a couple of
photos to adjust the shape and make them fit better, it worked
pretty well. The schemings was a simple 2 color one though, so
not super hard, just tedious.
There are probably better ways, it worked for me, and check
with some of the mask making companies if they help too. Many
of them are modelers too and are willing to cut custom masks
for us.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram have you experienced with all the crafts

cutting tools like cricut?
1
Page 2 of 14
Author
Rinaldi Studio Nathan Ram I don't no, I use the ol

knife...lol
Like · Reply · 1y
Erik Williams Thanks!! 1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Sylvain Plante Well I definitely cannot makes it

this afternoon, so here’s another one!
On the Marder 1/35 I will do... someday (lol), there is this
exhaust with a shroud over it. I would like to first paint the
muffler in the rust tones and then glue the shield over it
afterwards.
In TA4 we have a similar situation managed differently on a 1/48
Jagdpanzer. Photos below, please do not sue me for copyright
by using your photos... .
Any advantage of using your method?
I don't think there is any real advantage to what I did to be

honest, I might have started it one way and then handprinted
over it afterwards. I would most likely do the reverse as I show
on most of the other exhaust painting exercises on my models.
Overall, I try to lean toward reductive techniques and having the

top layers worn off as per real life.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Sylvain Plante
1
Sylvain Plante
Page 3 of 14
1
Sylvain Plante
1
Sylvain Plante
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Sylvain Plante Just in case I can’t make it... Lets
say I have two painted subassembly that needs to be glued
together. Do you scrape off the existing paint where the parts
will meet, if not what glue do you use? And how do you cope
Page 4 of 14
with the apparent joint?
Usually, yes, scraping off the glued surfaces works best. Work
carefully and only use the minimal amount of glue. I like Tamiya
Cement for most kits and the brush cap makes this pretty easy.
For the joints, it could mean some filling sanding and touch up.
Not much else can be done if it's a visible joint.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram That's fantastic. Never thought about

scraping the paint to glue
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Hidde De Jong This is my second model since

ages, all by brush, basic paints, oils and pigments. Love your
books, great inspiration. Question: is the use of an airbrush a
must? Can I get the same results(e.g fading) by only using
brushes?
Well, truth be told there are some amazing brush painters out
there, but it is a highly developed skill that requires a lot of
practice and patience to learn how to make the most of it.
Working in layers until the paint levels, and controlling thickness
and brush strokes is as much art as skill.
I have done 3-4 hand painted camo paint jobs on top of an

airbrushed base coat, but never a full model. I personally think
having an airbrush is indispensable for what we do, but it is
possible for those that want to work with brushes only.
My personal experience is Lifecolor and Vallejo are you two best
options for classic military type of projects. Single colors or base
coast could be done with aerosol to speed up some steps, and
soft edge camo is going to be the hard part. Otherwise,
patience, good brushes, properly thinned paint are key.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Gideon Kasaska Hi Mike,

How would you go about achieving an oxidized look on a metal
beam (like the ones in the attached photo)?
Thanks!!
Page 5 of 14
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio I would start with a base coat in the basic

shade, and then you layer up with chipping, speckles,
sponge and all sorts of stuff. This stuff is fun, I used the
LC Rust paint in the past, but the gritty look is done with
speckling, sponges, and chipped layers.
Like I love to say, set up a test with some styrene I-beams
and give it a go! ;)
4
Like · Reply · 1y
Gideon Kasaska Rinaldi Studio Thanks for the reply! So

would you say I could use layers of HS chipping of
different rust tones to build up the layers? And how could I
use MMP to create the satin finish on the cleaner bits of
the metal?
1
Gideon Kasaska Rinaldi Studio One other thing I forgot to

ask! Do you know what colour paint was used as a primer
for British WW2 tanks? Thanks!
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Gideon Kasaska I would do a combo of HS

and some sponge painting and speckling to achieve the
final look.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio Gideon Kasaska Add the Poly mix to the

paint, it creates a satin finish. Really nice and smooth with
a bit of sheen.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Giacomo Gramazio Nic to see someone using brush painting

when it seems you can't help using the airbrush!
1
Page 6 of 14
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I use the brush for hard edge effects. On

the Char B1 bis, I hand painted the pattern edges and then
airbrushed inside since it was fairly large areas.
Smaller patterns can be hand painted, properly thinned it

takes approx 3-5 thin layers for good coverage that levels
properly.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Skk Kun Hi
Im still new to this kind of thing .
My question is :
for acrylic colours , how do you prepare them? I've tried few
times with water but the mixture seems to be a failure. After i
applied the colour on the model , once it dried up the layer of
the colour becomes thick. Any advice? Oh and im using brush
for colouring since im a total beginner.
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio By total beginner, you mean brush painting

and airbrushing?
It is a challenging road and will take time to learn; my best

advice is be patient, expect failure and learn from the
mistakes.
Practice and use test models as much as possible to test

different thinning ratios. Also a good brand is key like
Vallejo and Lifecolor that give known results.
I would also try to learn airbrushing, there are pretty

cheap and inexpensive beginner set ups today that you
cut your teeth with without costing too much.
Just know it takes time, it will not happen immediately and
be patient. Test different combination of thinned paint and
use good quality brushes. You can start at an art store for
those since they are a great source.
Start with a thinning ratio of 50-50 and then add more
water or paint to see how it turns out (you add paint to
thicken it up, or add water to make it thinner).
With painting, any type or process, it is best done in thin

layers, and you are likely putting it on too thick (and this
same concept applies to airbrushing, as well -- apply
paint in thin layers is always the best way).
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Nick Picardy Hey Mike, Do you now use Mission model paint
exclusively when painting your projects? or do you go to others
Page 7 of 14
exclusively when painting your projects? or do you go to others
like Tamiya and such for specific painting needs?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I definitely use other brands, Lifecolor,

Vallejo and Tamiya when I need to. I use MMP a lot but it's
not an exclusive situation.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Michael Spaw Mike have a specific look I was hoping you could
weigh in on. Ive just picked up a Red Iron Models Soviet road
roller DU-11 https://redironshop.com/en/product/rim35011-2/...
And i'm very interested on how for the sample they may have
achieved the look of the weathered metal for the wheels. I
apologize if this isn't as paint specific as you are looking fo in
this session. I'm happy to post it again at some other point.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I love this kit and would love to make one
some day. My guess is it was accomplished with a combo
of metallic paint base coat with either sponge rust specks
of top, or HS chipping to layer the rust, a combo of this
idea, and/or even some speckling. I did a similar idea with
the D9 Dozer and adding rust.
Like · Reply · 1y
Page 8 of 14
Cody Kwok Hi Michael quick question... What do you usually do
with the chipping layer? Of course for red primer one would say
a corresponding primer layer, but chips are often darker in
finished work so it seems people are using some dark brown or
even black underneath, and not a uniform primer layer as often
suggested. How would one go about rendering this layer?
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio It mostly depends on the subject matter

first, so if it's a German WWII subject, you can def start
with a red primer layer, HS and then top coats chipped off.
If you want to show steel then you can either hand paint
the center of some them a dark grey-brown shade (which
is what you're see guys use as the color), or do a layer of
steel first, then the red and HS chip it that way. The goal is
to chips tot he primer, and chips to the bare metal, I've
mixed both many times. Here's an example of working
both colors underneath...
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram how do you paint the more complicated camo

schemes? like the german "octopus" camo, or modern digital
Page 9 of 14
schemes? like the german "octopus" camo, or modern digital
camo? do you create your own masks for those, freehand (AB or
paint brush)?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio For hard edge complicated schemes I will

mix brush painting and masks. If there are existing masks
available, I go that route first, if not then I make my own
tape or paper masks (I have . Digital camo is tedious, but
pretty straight forward since it's small cut out squares and
rectangles.
I personally resort to brush painting as the final solution,
mostly because I'm lazy and like spray as much as
possible. Otherwise, have fun, it's nothing more than
perseverance and research to be honest.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Alexander Wegner Nathan Ram sry to jump in but

www.solidscale.eu I had to share this link because you ask
for Oktopus and digital. May you will finde some. May I
can also answer your question about the material of
masking. One way is to use masking tape. There is
still… See More
SOLIDSCALE.DE
START
3
Author
Rinaldi Studio Alexander Wegner No worries, happy to

see you pop in and you're great products are soo helpful. I
always default to pre-cut masks because life is short and
I'm getting lazy in trying to make complicated masks.
We've got guys like you to step in and help out! ;)
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram in modern vehicles, do you paint the road wheels

on or off the model?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Usually depends on the style of the road

wheels, but yes most days you can get away with a circle
template and painting in situ.
Page 10 of 14
template and painting in situ.
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram what do you use for camo masks, and how do you
lift it without tearing or damaging the paint? also, any tips on
removing liquid masking fluid?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio If I am making them, I use Tamiya tape

mostly. It's not often, but that's my go to.
Like · Reply · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio Using tape masks, you want to detach it on

the skin or on your clothes to reduce its strength. That's
usually enough, and I prime my work so tend not see
lifting issues.
For liquid masks, tweezers, sharp knife, just gotta go slow

and take your time. No real tricks other than taking your
time. Proper paint prep is how you prevent lifting most
days. ;)
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Brian Medina Rinaldi Studio *de-tack (the tape), not

detach [autocorrect ]
Zdeněk Pilc Hello Mike, I am a liitle late, but just one question.
With mission models paint if you working on camo with lower
pressure and more thinned paint to make thin lines, how often
you have to clean your airbrush tip from dried paint ? I have to
clean it around every 30 sec, couse I cant make same width line.
or the paint stops flowing. Thanks
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio When this starts to happen, and it happens

to all the brands, trust me, it just means you need to stop
and clean it completely. And I know guys say "I cleaned it",
but stoppage means build up is happening and typically it
doesn't happen for the first 30-45 mins and then it
appears.
It's a cleaning issue and mixing incomparable chemicals in
the same airbrush more than anything else, and not really
a brand issue.
Page 11 of 14
a brand issue.
It can also be compounded by a humidity issue, the dry
winter weather perhaps, indoor heater drying the air if you
in the garage etc., that can be a big factor too. I notice it a
lot more in these months then in the spring and
summertime.
There is also the possibility you have mixed cleaners,

thinners and paint brands. If so, that can be a issue for
clogging and tip drying (even though I know guys can be
dismissive of this idea, I've repeatedly had less issues
when I streamline my AB's into one brand/chemical type
only).
I like to have a brush and thinner handy to wipe it off, and
if it gets out of hand, stop, clean and reset the AB is
usually the best solution. Not much you can do once it
starts, and don't be fooled by the "brand" conversation,
they literally will all do it in time.
1
Zdeněk Pilc Thank you, I have a new AB but tried tamiya

pains and mm paints in it. It could be a problem. /no prob
with tamiya diluted with MR leveling thinner, but they are
easy to use for beginners/
1
Sylvain Plante Rinaldi Studio when dismantling the AB for

deep cleaning I use lacquer thinner, perhaps even
stronger stuff like MEK. Is this the proper way to rest the
AB, appart health issues...And after cleaning your airbrush
completely, do you lightly coat your needle with Iwata
super lube?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Zdeněk Pilc if you used the LT prior to

MMP, then I would bet money that is the reason you see
the tip drying so fast. The two don’t play well together and
Page 12 of 14
the tip drying so fast. The two don’t play well together and
I’ve been trying to get modelers to recognize MMP is a
new chemical type in our hobby and we can’t use stuff like
LT with it.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio Slyvain — I use the superlube on the

threads only, not on anything the paint would touch.
Zdenek — Yes LT in brush prior to MMP would be the
place I’d start changing. Strip it and clean again and dry
completely, then flush thoroughly with water and dry
again. Triple check and bring it as close to new as you can
to run the MM. If you have just the one airbrush, you might
need to make your models either all MMP or not at all to
avoid the cross over issue.
I had the same problem with Vallejo/LC and Tamiya in the

same airbrush for a long time, and why I started saying
this, it predates MMP and not isolated to them.
The various chemicals mixing in the brush is an issue. I’ve

repeatedly ran into the same problem you had, and when I
bought a second airbrush (one for Vallejo/LC and the
other for Tamiya+LT), the clogging issues are almost non-
existent today. This idea carries over to MMP because
they are a new acrylic blend that guys will have the same
problem with if they try to run various chemical types in
that same airbrush.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Zdeněk Pilc Thak you, of course for cleaning tip if using

MM I use original thinner, but there can be a dry tamiya
paint in a nozzle, or something.... thank you for your
observation, I ll try to clean it, and start again.
1
Sylvain Plante Rinaldi Studio thanks for the reply!

However even if It sound like a very simple issue, hearing
what you said about problems with mixing chemicals, I’m
still wandering about what product to use when cleaning
and stripping the airbrush or is that matter at all?
And about the SuperLube, I read somewhere that coating
the needle with this lubricant would help paint flow and
reduce needle clogging and dry tip... maybe not after all!
Guess I’ll have to try.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Sylvain Plante sometimes with the

Superlube if it is on the needle for a while it gets a little
Page 13 of 14
Superlube if it is on the needle for a while it gets a little
gummy, maybe like a few weeks kinda of timeframe.
For cleaning, I’m usually sticking with the brand’s thinner
or at least the same type of chemical.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Nick Picardy Forgot to add one last question! Have you heard or
experimented with Winsor and Newton water mixable oil paint?
curious to see if they would work similar to traditional oils for
OPR and such.
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio I have heard they come pretty close, and

haven't tried them personally largely because I have a full
stash of regular oils and with odorless thinner it's pretty
mellow to work with... maybe get a couple tubes and give
it a test session and see if you like.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Paul Dutot Thanks Michael. Very informative.

1
Page 14 of 14
Rinaldi Studio
January 25, 2019 ·
RSP Q&A SESSION 44

TOPIC: AIRBRUSHING
12pm-2pm Friday (West Coast US)
Hi guys - the Q&A session on AIRBRUSHING is now open. Please ask
questions related to airbrushing your models, the different processes,
applications, tools, products, trouble shooting, etc. Post photos when
possible, thanks!
Cheers! Michael - RSP
Page 1 of 24
All Comments
Author
Rinaldi Studio ScaleDracula.com Hi Michael. I have some more

questions regarding Mission Models paints. What do you use to
clean your airbrush? I've found out the dedicated thinner/cleaner
is not aggresive enough, especially if the paint has started to
dry. Also, how do you approach a freehand camo with MM
paints? Their website advises against diluting the paint to 50/50
ratio and more. And that's precisely what I would do with other
acrylics to paint, say, a German 3 tone camo. As always, thanks
so much for doing this. You're the man!
I use their thinner to clean the airbrush. Here are my steps when
I'm spraying -- I first dump out the extra paint into a mixing cup,
add some water in the AB, use some brushes and q-tips to get
the bulk of the remaining paint out, flush with water a few
passes, re-wipe the insides, pull the needle, and then flush the
AB with thinner until it blows clear. I put the needle back in, and
repeat with a little thinner until it blows clear.
I try hard not to let paint sit in the airbrush for more than an hour
or so, since it can be much harder to remove once it's cured --
for any paint. I didn't clean my airbrush from trip to Belgium in
December properly and I wasn't able to clean it until a few days
when I got home and that wasn't fun. I broke the airbrush down,
used MM thinner, let the parts soak overnight in the thinner and
it came clean.
I haven't used anything else to clean MMP besides water and
their thinner, and I will have to circle back around and edit this
answer if they recommend something additional that can be
used.
Avoid lacquer thinner because this will react with the remaining
paint and cause further clogging when spraying later on. If you
do, you will need a full strip down and cleaning with the above to
ensure MMP will spray without issues. I stand by this tip for
keeping one chemical type of paint in the airbrushing, MMP isn't
very lacquer thinner friendly, even if it sprays for a little bit OK
you'll ultimately experience issues in this regards.
Page 2 of 24
you'll ultimately experience issues in this regards.
Freehand spraying is based on a sliding ratio of variables -- the
thinning ratio, psi, and distance to the model.
1) The thinner the paint ratio is, the lower the air pressure needs
to be, and the closer the AB needs to be to the surface.
2) The less thinned the paint is, the higher the psi needs to be,
and the distance from the model increases.
Since you're an experienced modeler, I'd recommend a test and
see what 50-50 ratio sprays like. I'd suggest around 10psi and
around an inch from the model (3 cm or so). See how that goes,
then adjust as needed for the type of camp involved. If it's the
new technical photo you shared, then go lower psi and even
closer -- that is how I imagine having to spray that scheme.
7
ScaleDracula.com My question about painting camo was

rather general, but thanks for getting into details. I'am
aware of the thinning ratio/pressure/distance relation. It's
just the official MMP site says: 'The paint will NOT work
properly if you mix 1:1 or 50% thinner 50% Paint. It will
fail.' Have you ever experience any problems with extreme
thinning ratios? I'll do some tests obviously but I could
really use your long experience with the brand. Thanks!
3
Author
Rinaldi Studio I believe this comment on their page

relates to general airbrushing, and thinning MMP like a lot
of other brands (such as how we always talk about
thinning Tamiya paint 50/50 with lacquer thinner), which
will lead to struggles trying to base coat a model when
you apply that thought process to MMP. The advised
thinning ratio is around 20-30% depending on general
painting and trying to get modelers to recognize that and
accept that part is why MM are being emphatic to the
general public.
For what we are discussing, making those adjustments to
the variables to achieve the paint job's specific needs that
an experienced model can handle and focus on to achieve
it with whatever brand being used is part of the process. I
think you'll be fine. ;)
I've personally, no, not had any failure issues from
adjusting thinning with MMP because I am adjusting the
other factors too, and doing it for a specific task (such as
the camo on a project the technical truck). There are no
issues if the adjustments are made for a specific purpose,
we know the reasons and what should happen, which is
how we treat any other brand to be honest.
1
Page 3 of 24
1
ScaleDracula.com Ok, great! I understand the procedure

and the necessity to adjust to particular circumstances. I
just wasn't sure how the paint would react chemically to
the big ratio of thinner. Thanks a lot for your elaborate
answers!
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio No problem, you'll have to test out what

the best ratio is, I'm not 100% sure 50/50 is ideal for what
you're going, it may be less and will require some fine-
tuning on your end, if that helps too.
Overall, you should not have issues since you know the
other factors involved. I'm looking forward to seeing
what's next! ;)
Author
Rinaldi Studio Cody Kwok Hi Michael thanks for your comments

on MMP in SMCG. Wanted to follow up and ask whether you add
Poly to your mix for some paint resilience or you take advantage
of the weak MMP layer for your effects. With the weak paint
payer I worry about HS chipping not working as well when you
rub, because you may just be rubbing off the paint and not
chipping. Thanks!
Hi Cody, and thanks. I am going to reset my answers to backdate

it your question on SMCG, and why I'm saying what I am, and
how this all works so guys can tackle it with confidence.
I'll bring in the Poly additive answer at the end and discuss how
it works and why, and when to use it.
First, to bring up the erasable element to Mission Models paints.

This is still relatively new to me, and in layman's terms, the paint
has a curing window were we can rub it similar to how we use a
brush and water with HS, and see subtle wear and tear in the
surface. It's actually an abrasive process not unlike sanding, just
more controlled and gentler on the paint.
I haven't locked in the time allowance for the process, so I'm

going to estimate 48hrs or so for us to be able to do this.
What is occurring is the paint isn't fully cured and since it's
water soluble to start with we can gently abuse the paint to
create effects in the surface. It's deliberate and requires
pressure and therefore isn't related to adhesion, weaknesses or
failures (or anything of the sort). Look at it like it's a quality we
Page 4 of 24
failures (or anything of the sort). Look at it like it's a quality we
can take advantage of, the results are similar but not identical to
HS chipping and broaden the overall variety we can obtain by
using MM paints. I put them a step above Tamiya in this regards,
and why I feel it's worth sharing.
This leads to your concerns on using HS + MMP. When the paint
was released, and I switched from my primary Tamiya paint + HS
process to MMP, I noticed a few differences. The paint felt more
delicate, as mentioned, and thus chipped easier than Tamiya,
however the net resulting chips and scratches were finer and
smaller and more controllable one I tweaked my approach.
Therefore, after I adjusted my own efforts I use less pressure
and less water to create the HS chipping effects. Why this
happens relates to the above, and while you notice it, it doesn't
make anything worse. In truth, the chipping is superior and by
realizing the factors involved we can do even more with MMP,
and at a smaller level with better success (which is very valuable
for smaller scales like 1/72, 1/100 and 1/144 -- I saw this in
SM03). It takes some practice to adjust from other brands,
otherwise there isn't any real hiccups to mention.
With HS underneath, the chips still occur per normal, you simply
need to factor the time frame a bit more since you can create
other effects at the same time, or unintentionally. Because you
can create a variable result spectrum based on time with MMP,
work with it to arrive at the final result you intended.
Like anything, run tests. Don't be shy go abusive with the brush
and water and see what happens. See what happens if you HS
chip right away after spraying, after an hour, and then after a
day. You should able to see changes in the effects and note
what you like and when it happened so you have some
baselines. It's not a simple black and white process, and one
easy answer.
What we do have a very powerful combo that provides a broad

range of finish levels and this is so important for us to realize
and embrace. Like the rest of these techniques, it takes time to
understand, experience and grow with it.
Above this post, I link a video from Belgium last year today on
the page's timeline, and watch the conversation on MMP and
chipping in the first 30 minutes the video. I cover this topic in
detail and what happens both ways (with HS and without using
just water). Again, the results are similar between the two styles,
and allow for a broader spectrum of finish levels depending on
the need of the project.
The Polyurethane Additive -- this is a relatively new product to

he hobby but has foundations in finishes we often recognize
elsewhere. Urethanes are a class of chemicals that provide very
durable protection to a surface, doesn't have to be paint per say,
and by having it as a separate additive for the MM paints
provides a couple of unique features and by-products of use.
The downside is the hobby is easily confused when people half
answer questions with some info and not all, or put the wrong
Page 5 of 24
answer questions with some info and not all, or put the wrong
info first which adds to additional confusion. That's more an
internet issue we often see with hobby techniques and products.
First, the Poly is used for projects requiring a tougher finish. This
is important because if you plan to do excessive wear and tear I
often discuss, such as HS chipping, it tends to defeat the
purpose (although using it alongside isn't all that hard, or make
a ton of difference). When the poly is added to the MM paints, it
chemically turns it into a polyurethane, again a tough outer shell.
It has a shelf life though and one of the main reasons it's a
separate additive and not put into the paint. The other reason is
the resulting finish is more satin (semi-gloss) and for historical
work matte is often a preferred starting point. It's simply easier
to work matte into other finishes, smarter and keeping it an
option allows for more use from the end users.
Why it is satin is because of the self--leveling associated with it.
One of the two main by-products of the Poly is this, it self levels
extremely well and the surface is very very smooth, smooth
enough to apply decals directly onto with additional varnishes.
This is a great element for projects like aircraft and civilian
models that do not or won't be heavily weathered or beaten up
with chipping, and so forth.
The other by-product and likely the source of confusion is that it

acts like a flow enhancer, reducing tip drying even more and the
results are smoother spraying, smoother surface finish (albeit
satin) and once fully cured is very very durable for a model's
particular needs. Tabletop gamers/modelers should really perk
up with the MMP + Poly conversation because I feel this is where
the product would be most valuable on usage scale, followed by
those modelers needing non-matte finishes and can eliminate a
few varnishes levels, which will result in more accurate and
realistic scale gloss(ier) end results. This is the end game of
Poly, not the by-products. While you can add it to take
advantage of the those qualities, it's purpose is durability.
I've been able to use Poly in the paint and chip it just fine, and
like the paint, it has a curing window (and I'll try to lock down
hard numbers in the future on the time elements). That said I've
also not pursued a worn out subject while using the Poly, the
model doesn't call for the durability or the satin sheen in those
cases, so it's not a needed product for me on the type of work I
normally do.
I also know, once I've painted a model, chipped and weathered

it, the variables of the paint being harmed in some way are
literally nil, (for any brand and any model). Properly primed and
painted models don't have failure rates for static display work
due to lack of varnishes and the like. Therefore, work to the
finish goals of the project rather than some protection level
concerns that don't really exist for static display plastic models,
the end result will be much better and more realistic models.
3
Page 6 of 24
John Bonanni For the Stug above could you briefly describe
your steps for airbrushing? I only ask because the overall tone of
the vehicle is great. The camo colors seem flawlessly integrated
with the base color. Models frequently have camo colors that
jump out when compared to the base color. Did you add an
overall tan filter following the camo colors?
4
Author
Rinaldi Studio Hi John, the answer to the question is

straight forward in the technique aspects, but the model
itself went through a transformation, twice. I'll explain
further, in my own chatty way lol
For the actual colors and painting of the camo, the final is
an addendum to a previous iteration of this model. It
started life as a friend's work. Tamiya kit, he didn't like the
finish, so I bought off him and used it as a repainting
exercise. In fact, this model is quite old, but after all the
work it out came nice and now resides in a friend's
collection halfway around the world.
What I often do with work, and many of you have seen me
discuss this, or outright witness it, I am not shy to repaint
a project. Especially if the base coat is smooth and the
features/details remain crisp and sharp. We often jump
into stripping paint, and found if the basics are met then
respraying is more than OK for a lot of models (for
whatever reason it's justified to change the camo).
With German armor, (post 43'), I prefer the lighter shade
of dunkelgelb. Mostly as a personal preference, but I have
a lot of reference to also support that and this lends some
credibility on my color selections. I first repainted the
model in Lifecolor, and weathered it pretty far in 2007. It
sat for a long time at around 80-90% finished, and then I
decided to repaint it again using a combo of Tamiya and
LC paints back in 2016, with the intention of replicating
this color scheme, and developing my OPR work.
The trick to this particular model, and what you're alluding

to, is color choice, followed by spray technique. I choose
the green and red tones that were relative to the base pale
yellow, versus going full color spectrum as a fresh factory
paint job. It's basically the adage of spray in lighter values
to begin with, but I also sprayed very thin layers and left a
fair bit of translucency for the yellow underneath, if that
makes sense.
In other words, I didn't spray the camo at full 100%
opacity, and another reason I always say to build up the
camo slowly and in thin coats. This allowed me to maintain
a harmony without resorting to filters. (I'm past using the
filter in overall stages now too).
Page 7 of 24
filter in overall stages now too).
By that time, I was using OPR and needed a good finished
test project to develop some SBS tutorials from and this is
why the StuH went through one more transformation. The
rest of the finish is from using the oil paints to apply the
various tones and filters, pin washes and subtle dust
layers to get the end result on the paint. In fact, I went
back and added this model as a special chapter in TA4
German Armor (2nd Ed) because I felt this entire journey
held merit to have discussions like this.
Here are some previous images of the model, before and
after, etc. Again, no paint stripping occurred, all paint is
sprayed directly on top of the previous layer, the final one
over a layer of HS to help with some chipping.
4
Author
Rinaldi Studio
1
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Author
Rinaldi Studio
1
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Page 8 of 24
Author
Rinaldi Studio
1
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Rinaldi Studio
2
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Jon Williams What air compressor do you use/ recommend? My

buddy Scott has had some pretty lousy compressor luck lately
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio My personal compressor was an 2004

Iwata Power Jet, which is finally started to fail after nearly
15 years. Well a hose part that is no longer available is
leaking making spraying difficult, so I have a new Silent Air
20A for 2019 (my Christmas gift), which is top level hobby
compressor. See link below on the model.
If your friend, or any modeler for that matter, foresees a
lot of spraying for the future I recommend an air tank style
compressor that fills up and runs quiet for a period of time
and then refills again, versus a continually running
compressor.
It's calmer, more relaxed and more refined type of
airbrushing. They usually have built0in moisture trap too.
Although new smaller compressor are vastly quieter than
the old diaphragm compressors from years ago, I prefer
Page 9 of 24
the old diaphragm compressors from years ago, I prefer
the tank compressors myself.
That said, there are some really great and much quieter
compressors available today, shop them around,
especially on a budget. Try to avoid cheap knock offs or
overseas eBay junk, the top brands back their products up
with better support and service, and is money well spent.
I will say this, switching to the air-tank compressor was
the single biggest improvement to model hobby time. I
feel strongly it's a value based investment in top
equipment that will last years and years. If you can afford
one, do it, even if you have to save up. $400-600USD is
about expected to spend on this type of unit, but the
hours I get from enjoyable and reliable spraying is worth
every penny to me.
It's the foundation item to my workbench, and why I feel

strongly about making this choice the absolute best you
can afford.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Author
Rinaldi Studio https://www.amazon.com/Silentaire-

Whisper.../dp/B00O305NPA
AMAZON.COM
Silentaire Super Silent 20-a

Whisper Quiet Airbrush…
1
Sylvain Plante Why did I add poly to the mix; well I thought, a
stronger shell as a fondation coat would be best to sustain the
subsequent HS technique. As I went through it last time I tested
this technique. See Q&A #2.
Page 10 of 24
1
Like · Reply · Message · 49w
Author
Rinaldi Studio In this case, I live with the damage and

simply repair and/or use it to paint in steel layer chips.
Since they are already defined and in-scale it is an easy
process to incorprate this additional layer of color.
with perceived mistakes like this, look at them as silver
lining and use them to your advantage.
1
Like · Reply · 49w
Sylvain Plante As for my ability to paint, yes Michael it’s with all
of the paint I used and every airbrushes. Although I understand
the theory and the balance between all the variables I never
seems to get it right... to my eyes. Reading what you have said
to ScaleDracula above I wouldn’t agree more. But again putting
it on practice is another thing.
Something else I would agree with ScaleDracula, is the cleaning
of the airbrush. The MMP thinner is to week to clean partly
drying paint. Wish we could use something stronger.
Author
Rinaldi Studio Re. cleaning, the is something we all do

and that is basically clean sooner in the process. In fact,
get in the habit of stopping and cleaning if you've been
spraying for a while. It will reset the airbrush and help
avoid trying to remove dried paint. This is true for any
brand sprayed.
I've heard rumors to the later, but I personally can't

confirm anything. I'd ask them directly on that note... ;)
1
Sylvain Plante An other small one!

Have you ever used Panzer Putty as a mask?
I personally never came close to this product, is it exactly like
Page 11 of 24
I personally never came close to this product, is it exactly like
the Silly Putty but with a different marketing strategy?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio No, I personally never used Panzer Putty,

but have used putty in general in the past. I have heard or
see nothing to say one works better than the other.
Putty masking tends to work all the same, since like you
say, it's a repackaged general product turned into a hobby
product. Nothing wrong with that, since hobby dollars
help hobby companies stay in business, and you as the
consumer then need to decide how and when to spend
those dollars, etc.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Julien Patacchini Beautiful Dream work ;)

1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Thank you!

Like · Reply · 1y
Sylvain Plante Good day Mike,

I always been intrigued by how can we execute an italien WWII
aircraft camo without seeing over spray around the pattern, to
make matters worse, on a 1/72 scale.
I included a photo of camouflage as an example of many
possible camo.… See More
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio There are a couple of things, one this very

specific. The Italian camo is a unique look and can be
achieved a few ways. One is the decals (prob not a bad
idea for a small scale project), the other is masks and the
last being free hand.
If you want a certain edge style, (soft edge versus hard
edge, etc.), and we are talking broadly for any paint brand,
the variables I mention of psi, thinning ratio, and distance
you'll need to find the correct setup.
The airbrush will help too, so combining them altogether
will achieve the end result. I also think you need to break it
down into sessions, not trying to complete it all in one
Page 12 of 24
down into sessions, not trying to complete it all in one
sitting and doing some of it, do a full cleaning and prep for
the next session and so on.
If the soft edge is really tight, then use a lifted mask or the
putty process to mask. And yes, set it all up and see what
works best for the project outcome.
1
Like · Reply · 1y
Bryan Searby Hi Michael think people would be interested to

know what airbrush do you use and the needle size.
2
Author
Rinaldi Studio I use a number of brushes today, all are

dual-action gravity-feed style, (which I prefer to side-feed
for easier cleaning)
My current main 3 AB's are -

1) Tamiya High Grade Super Fine (HG-SF), which is largely
Iwata in style and uses .2mm needle and small cup. I use
this MMP paints now.
2) Iwata HP-C+ with 1/3 oz cup and .3mm needle. I
previously used it for lacquers, but switched it to MMP
last year. (I don't spray lacquers anymore).
3) HP-CS with 1/3 oz cup and .35mm needle. I use this for
larger spray jobs and the vinyl/latex acrylics (Lifecolor,
Vallejo, AK, etc).
I have some new Harder Steenbeck's for this year too,

Infinity with .15 - .4mm tip setup, and the Evolution with a
.2mm, and Grafi with .15mm but haven't used them to
date.
In addition, I've add MAC valves and quick-releases to
each one and adjustable handles on the back for needle
draw and stop, which all work together to allow a ton of
fine-tuning while spraying.
To date I haven't painted large 1/32 or 1/16 size projects,

but would also recommend a .5mm airbrush if you were
focused on models in this size range, which are going to
continue to grow as a market segment.
The above listed airbrushes cover the main 1/72, 1/48 and
1/35 scales I work in, including the Gundam scales of
1/100 and 1/144.
4
Sylvain Plante Hello Michael!

Here’s a test I just did and would like to discuss about it.
I don’t believe I was ever able to shoot a very fine and smooth
Page 13 of 24
I don’t believe I was ever able to shoot a very fine and smooth
line during the course of my existence...and I would love to
change that.… See More
Author
Rinaldi Studio Thank you for the test images and taking
the time to do this. I find it is invaluable, and while the
results were not to your satisfaction it provides a solid
foundation to determine what is happening.
My first thought is ditch the water. There is no need or

reason for it and could well be the cause. I only ever used
water with Lifecolor and for HC chipping Tamiya to allow
for easier process.
I suspect the water is causing the graining issue, MMP is a

system paint and designed to be thinned with its thinner,
so nothing else is needed.
For MMP, simply stick to their thinner, it works as it should
and a little goes a long way. The Poly can be useful and
should improve spraying a little bit as well, although it is
by no means required to get quality results. (its purpose is
protection and strength of the cured paint -- ie. turns it
into a polyurethane paint, which is very durable).
My other question is when you say recurrent problem, is

this for all of your painting or with only MMP?
Perhaps you did not shake it enough, and looking at it
closely I think you're slightly too thick. Retest with just
ratios of paint and thinner, nothing else -- no poly, no
water, nothing.
First goal is to get it to spray properly and if you continue

to see a problem like this, then adjust the thinning ratio
and try again.
In fact, go too far the other way to see what happens and
then dial it in. Your pressure may be a tad too low as well,
up it to 12psi, and then to 15psi, and see what happens.
Spray some at 20psi too, and since it's winter (dry and
Page 14 of 24
Spray some at 20psi too, and since it's winter (dry and
cold), temps might well be affecting things on top of all of
this.
Overall, right now it looks too dry and under-thinned to

me, that's where I would start.
1
Like · Reply · 50w · Edited
Sylvain Plante Rinaldi Studio I’ll do some more testing

tonight and come back with new test pieces. Later!
2
Michael Olds Sylvain Plante watching with interest.

2
Author
Rinaldi Studio Sylvain Plante Sounds good, we'll get it

sorted mate
1
Nathan Ram any tips on spraying gloss coats? i seem to be

getting it sprayed in too thick a layer, and it looks like puddles
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Most modelers starting out don't realize

varnishes need to be thinned as much or more than
paints. I made this mistake often for the few years, and
one reason I started to break away from that process.
My guess is you're doing the same, therefore start to thin

the varnishes a lot more. Go up to 50-50 and build up in
thin light wet coats for a gloss. Do a few passes and let it
dry, then see where you're at. Don't flood the surface
thinking that's how it gets glossy. Gloss is directly related
to how smooth the surface is (it's reflection
characteristics), and paint prep + base coat smoothness
all play important factors to a successful gloss. It's why
the car and planes guys tend to sand and wet coat their
finishes prior to using a gloss.
3
Like · Reply · 1y
Sylvain Plante Trying more thinner 80%, 8 drops of thinner for

10 of paint. Getting even closer to the surface 1/4 inch, hard to
control, should of brought my pressure down to 10psi. I still see
some graining.
Page 15 of 24
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio See my comment on the Mac valve above,

it will help a lot as you tune the spraying to the project.
Don't fret, trust me on this part, experience is crucial. You
are honing in the process. If this is a rather common
experience across the board, continue to test all your stuff
and keep the pace of practice up. One thing guys do is
test once, paint a month later then see issues and don't
understand why, thinking they ran a test. It doesn't need
to be rather fresh and recent to ensure the translation of
your adjusted setup is done properly.
It's important to keep a study pace with testing and
practice, especially for critical elements like airbrushing. It
will happen, and the more you do this the better you will
become by default.
Red is also a notoriously difficult color to get right. I

suggest keep spraying a variety of colors and when you
see good results note them and use that as a baseline for
the ones giving you trouble.
Some colors like a primer red are going to a base layer

with full coverage anyway, so you don't need to be so
close to the surface and can up the pressure to lay a
wetter coat down. Move to 2-3" inches away and you can
open it a bit and this helps lay it down smoother. You
definitely have a lot of graining and that's not the process
needed, if that makes sense. You may need to thin more
to see good results at 10psi from 1/2" or so away with the
red, for example. But even then I think your setup needs
more psi to give you results.
Try some testing at 20+ psi to see if anything happens.
Move away a little bit too.
And lastly, when you see this happen, shake the bottle
again too, just to be certain it's fully mixed. Open and stir
it if needed, it's simple insurance just in case... some of
this is me just spit balling ideas to make sure you covered
the basics well.
Page 16 of 24
the basics well.
1
Sylvain Plante Thank you Michael, I sure will continue

testing and practicing using your advices. The next
couples month will be busy on other personal matters but
once this will be over I’ll be looking forward for more time
at the bench. Again, great to have you helping us to
progress in the hobby.
1
Michael Olds This is a fascinating running tutorial! Thank

you both for your time and for keeping the conversation
public. I applaud both of you and I have learned so much!
1
Jon Williams What's the secret to a super smooth finish with no

visible texture or grain?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio See my additional answer to Dracula

below... and I'll repeat the important part regarding your
question, and then expand upon it specifically. It's the key
tip to understanding airbrushing success.
Freehand spraying is based on a sliding ratio of variables -

- the thinning ratio, psi, and distance to the model.
1) The thinner the paint ratio is, the lower the air pressure
needs to be, and the closer the AB needs to be to the
surface.
2) The less thinned the paint is, the higher the psi needs
to be, and the distance from the model increases.
A couple of additional tips.
1) Spray in light thin coats. This has multiple advantages,
all of which are key to success: A) it preserves detail, B)
adhesion is improved since the paint hits wet and cures
into the surface, rather than dries in the air and looses it's
adhesion strength, C) you can control the opacity and
incorporate subtle variations as needed and this helps
replicate many realistic finishes.
2) Keep the airbrush perpendicular to the model's surface
as much as possible. Try to avoid holding the AB at an
oblique angle to the surface. This ensures all particles hit
evenly, and ultimately dry level and smooth. When you
spray at oblique angles (common in Color Modulation
Page 17 of 24
spray at oblique angles (common in Color Modulation
projects), the paint traveling farther dries before hitting
the surface, which is weaker on the surface and also adds
dreaded texture. (CM + Tamiya this is very common issue,
so work around this as much as you can).
3) Distance, as mentioned above, and for smoothness of
the paint it is very important. Largely because a lot of
modelers will spray from too far away at the wrong psi for
the task.
The best solution -- practice. And then practice a hundred
times more. Airbrushing more than any other repeatable
task we do, is the most crucial process, and learning it
right and achieving success is half the battle. Get this part
right and you will have almost no issues moving forward.
I strongly recommend test sessions on scrap and take
notes, use different measured ratios + psi settings.
Airbrushing is like baking, precision and accuracy matters.
What is often recommended is not often what actually
occurs on the bench, and slow things down, measure
ratios accurately and work from a baseline to learn what is
what and the results that can happen.
2
Like · Reply · 1y
Nathan Ram do you try to have everything painted with AB?

even small details? is this something one should strive to
achieve?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio The short answer is no. When it is more

efficient to do so (ie. the small tools, gear, etc.), then yes,
it can be helpful from a process standpoint. However, a lot
will depend on what the details are, where they are on the
model, the quantity of them, and so on.
Items needing more individual style, chipping, things of
this nature usually get handprinted or sprayed one at a
time, but it is not a primary goal to spray everything, I let
the details and the end game dictate what process is used
and when.
Like · Reply · 1y
Sylvain Plante Switching paint colour. Maybe it’s the paint. Now
I’m at 15psi, 1/2 inch from the surface and back to 30% dilution.
Still no poly nor water!
Write there! Even if the colour is not the best as for contrast. Big
difference but not perfect.
Page 18 of 24
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio One thing to note, the speed of how fast

you move the airbrush is also a factor in getting quality
results.
If you look at the two horizontal lines, in the left half you
are moving too slowly, you can see the paint building up
too much, and when you speed up the motion, as noticed
towards the right half of each line, the paint smoothes out
a lot more and is less watery looking.
This is repeated with the S-shapped squiggles and the

third line below the dots where you are moving the AB
more quickly.
This is where you can focus your practice efforts with

airbrushing, and, in general, will really help you out. It's
very much like timing with a tennis or golf swing, the
speed of the motion matters when drawing fine lines with
an airbrush.
Combined with the right distance is how you develop the

proper hand eye coordination for painting this form of
camo pattern free hand.
1
Sylvain Plante Rinaldi Studio you are absolutely right!

On those tests I didn’t use to travel stop for the needle on
the back of the AB. And starting from left to right, the first
couple millimeters, I was adjusting the spray, therefore I
was not focusing on the speed.… See More
1
Nathan Ram what AB do you currently use? do you have a

specific AB for different applications? like one for primer, one for
general paint schemes
1
Page 19 of 24
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio See answer to Bryan above.

For primer, I use MMP mostly today and use the same
airbrushes. Being a system, all their chemicals interact
well and cleaning isn't an issue.
Like · Reply · 1y
Sylvain Plante Same paint ratio but psi bump up to 15psi.

Getting better!
Author
Rinaldi Studio Yes, your psi settings are too low.

Depending not he compressor airbrush relationship it
looks like you need to spray at a higher psi, which is why
advice is often giving a range target like 15-20psi. Your
equipment setup -- compressor, hose, airbrush combo
will have a slightly different output to others. I say go
higher in fact, I'm guessing close to 20 will work well for
you.
Also, get a Mac valve for the Iwata, it will allow you keep
the compressor at a higher setting and then fine tune on
the airbrush itself.
Sylvain Plante The Mac valve is just a flow restritor. I’m

not too keen of using this but I’ll try it anyway. I’m afraid to
struggle with every first blow of the trigger, as the
pressure rises in the airbrush while it is not used.
Sylvain Plante Boosted thinner to 6 drops for 10 of paint, also

Page 20 of 24
Sylvain Plante Boosted thinner to 6 drops for 10 of paint, also
getting closer to the surface. About an half of inch. Not much
change!
Sylvain Plante Before we start, please forgive my lack of

stringency, with the excitement I skipped to clean my test pieces
and it is full of dust in my primer...
Now to the test!

As you suggested paint and thinner only and as prescribed by
MMP 20to 30% dilution.
10psi, an inch away from the surface, 3 drops of thinner for 10 of
paint. Lots of graining!
Sylvain Plante Test piece, Day2

First, let me answer a couple why’s. Why did I choose this
colour; because it’s going to be the fondation coat of the flak
gun I’m working on.
Page 21 of 24
Sylvain Plante And finally, The water! This is there only because
my bottle of poly turned into a jelly. Trying to save it, I mixed a
small batch of the poly with distilled water, kind of half-and-half
and it seems to work. It brought back that polyurethane to life.
Wan Helsing Wan What is the best method to achieve good

camo result, masking tape, etc. Im confiused. Thanks.
1
Jeff Walton How do you get the three tone camo to look good?
Pressure? Thin paints? Or tools you use?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I think the answers above and below cover

it well. If you have more specific additional questions, fire
away. These are the main factors:
1) Thinning ratio
Each brand is slightly different requirements and some
have thinning ratio ranges you can work within. Ask and
study on what would work best for your brands you have,
or want to use.
2) PSI
Usually for hobby projects, 12-20psi range is a good
general range. Above and below for more specialized
Page 22 of 24
general range. Above and below for more specialized
tasks, and this relates to thinning too. They go hand in
hand, and again will vary on brand, region and
temperature/humidity too.
3) Distance from the model
A learned process, but key to success. Closer in for fine
work with thinner paint and lower psi, farther for more
general overall color spraying at higher psi and thicker
paint.
4) Practice -- MOST important element, by far! Test a
wide variety of the above factors in variations to see
what's what. Test recommendations from here and other
sources to find out what fits your setup, where you spray,
temp, and so forth. It all makes a difference. Take notes
and write down your efforts. Time spent doing this will
greatly improve your abilities increasing a reliable level of
confidence to spray with success.
There is nothing quite as rewarding for a modeler, as
nailing a good paint job, and that positive vibe is a huge
factor in finishing models and looking forward to the next
one.
Everything starts with the base coat, so take it to heart if

airbrushing is new to you, or you tend to see wide
variations in how the painting goes.
4
Sylvain Plante
Sylvain Plante
Page 23 of 24
Rinaldi Studio
April 12, 2019 ·
RSP Q&A SESSION 55

TOPIC: PAINTING
12pm-2pm Friday (West Coast US)
Hi guys - the Q&A session on PAINTING is now open. Please ask
questions related to painting your models, surface prep, products, tools,
trouble shooting, etc. Post photos when possible, thanks!
LIKE & SHARE to help spread the word on the Q&A sessions. Cheers!
Michael - RSP
Page 1 of 9
All Comments
Author
Rinaldi Studio Greg Mockos in your opinion what is the best

layer combo for hairspray technieuq. Mission models paints on
top of mission models paints? What combos of manufacturers in
your mind works best and for what colors. I am a WWII axis tank
1/35 modeler. thanks.
Best is so subjective... not my favorite way to approach brands,
rather what will successfully achieve the type of chipped finish
you're after. Also what your experience is and how much depth
of knowledge you have with the technique matters too.
I love how MMP chips, and have no issues using it for a variety
of chipping needs. Same with Tamiya, Lifecolor, etc. The heart of
"best" comes down to you really... with enough time and
practice you can HS chip any paint to an extremely high level of
quality.
The colors are all the same, that is less important, same with the
subject. What you need are the images of the units in real life to
see what's what. All the brands make specific German WWII
colors, so once you settle on what you like to work with then go
from there, practicing with them to get the best you can. This is
a loaded question a little bit, kind of like asking a race driver
what is the best car... they're all pretty damn fast, so a lot comes
down to experience and skill at some point.
Also, the base layer of paint (or brand, as your question relates),
is basically irrelevant. (If you're concerned on some level, seal it
if need be, and that is okay too).
You can work with any combo of brands, if that is your need or
goal. However, when I paint a model with HS chipping,
personally I stick with one brand per project to ensure
consistency of results with how that brand operates. I don't go
out of my way to mix brands most of the time, and since you're a
German WWII modeler there aren’t a lot of colors involved
anyway. Truth is we use very limited colors overall, so I wouldn't
get too hung up on that part of painting and buy the colors
needed within a particular brand that you enjoy working with the
Page 2 of 9
needed within a particular brand that you enjoy working with the
most.
From there, practice is critical to get really good at it, whether
basic airbrushing, or HS chipping - whatever it may be. That's
the true path to ending up with a superior finish.
1
Greg Mockos thanks for the answer sir! had a work

meeting when this was live.
1
Zdeněk Pilc hello sir just a quick question. If you are using hair
spray under 3 colors camo scheme, are you chipping in two
steps or one ? I mean if you spray HS and base coat over it, after
that you make first chips and again spray HS + camo and chip
again. Or are you just spray all in one step over HS ? Thank
you... I made it in one step, but its hard to chip surface a little
bit.
3
Like · Reply · Message · 43w · Edited
Author
Rinaldi Studio With HS chipping you have the ability to

work in a few different ways regarding this topic. Yes, you
can paint and chip one at a time, and yes you can paint
chip multiple layers at once too.
HS chipping success depends a lot of the opacity of the

paint layers, and if you'r respraying 3 colors and chipping
at once, certain areas will be very opaque and tough for
the water to get down the HS layer.
Usually, you want a starting point that is an edge, os

something similar where the paint is thinner and start to
chip there. Un this way you have a working area that chips
and typically this will allow you to slowly walk the process
around the model.
That said, context is critical, and understanding what a
service unit looks like and the type of marks you're trying
to create are important to the initial process you are using.
Something it makes more sense to paint and chip as you
go, the slow way sometimes yields better results. Other
times you can definitely chip as a painted unit of multiple
layers.
The rest depends on experience and practice with the
process. I'm hoping you're having this issue on a test
piece and not the actual model, because it can alter the
course of the finish (not always a bad thing, but stressful
all the same).
Page 3 of 9
all the same).
The thickness of the paint layer is very critical, and you
can see how 3 of them compounds this. Success with HS
in this regards depends a lot of the appropriate thinness
to each layer of paint.
Again, there is no right or wrong, just mastering the
variables and this is where you should focus on your tests
and see what's what.
5
Zdeněk Pilc Thank you, really helpful. I try it on plastic

board before, but on model its different. Trying to make
small chips on vehicle which isnt too long in service. My
reference photo is Jp G1 No.212
1
Zdeněk Pilc Using MMP 1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Zdeněk Pilc Honestly, looks really good

mate. That's what you'll want to see. Maybe a few smaller
ones, but overall quite close and well done!
Zdeněk Pilc Thank you. Yes, its true that I have a problem
to do smaller ones, but found that thootpick and a little
wet surface works too, but it realy depends how much
pain is on surface... and I have more than I want.
1
Bryan Searby Hi Michael hope your well.Do you still use other
brands of paint other than MMP.Such as Tamiya and Mr Color.As
you know been using MMP but been having a number of
Page 4 of 9
you know been using MMP but been having a number of
issues.But no issues with Mr Color other than a tad smelly.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Of course, my comments are I've stopped

using lacquer paints and primers. MMP allows me to do
this and maintain finish quality levels with a non-solvent
based paint brand that checks all my boxes for the type of
processes and techniques that I use.
I have no idea why you would have issues, as I get asked
over and over about using MMP. My first answer, or
advice, and the one that has held up most of the time, if
not every time... is the other chemicals you are using or
have used in that airbrush. Start there, I will say to a rather
high level of certainty if you are pushing other brands
through the AB before using or switching to MMP, you can
very well have spraying issues with clogging.
Before MMP, I had ongoing spraying issues using a wide
variety of well known brands through 1 or 2 airbrushes. I
would chemical switch all the time.. and I experienced
tons of spraying issues ALL the time. For years. And guys
will argue this by saying "I can clean better, etc..."
whatever it is they believe. But for me, and for a growing
number of modelers who have done this -- run one
chemical per airbrush. It eliminates all of this from the
start and makes airbrushing a much more enjoyable
experience over the long haul.
Don't clean a MMP airbrush with lacquer thinner, or Vallejo

with another chem, or Tamiya with something else too.
Mixing chemical types is a direct recipe for spraying

issues, brand doesn't matter. It will happen eventually, no
matter how "clean" you might think the tool is. Once you
get this, embrace it and so on, airbrushing issues literally
drop off the planet. It has zero to do with MMP.
I say this because I made this discovery long BEFORE
using MMP. Nothing I do relates to any special process I
do with that brand. It is a fundamental shift in my
approach to painting overall, and to repeat myself, has
zero to with brand X or Y... it's all about using tools
smarter. One chemical type per airbrush = happier
painting sessions -- substantially better I will add.
Most modelers don't tell me all they are doing, for many
different reasons, including forgetting steps or products
used, but once they see this for themselves, problem
solved. I saw this with Lifecolor, Vallejo, and AK well
before MMP came around (and we heard complaints about
them in the same vein too... FOR YEARS, truth is lacquer
and enamels really need their own airbrush, and is pretty
simple and highly effective solution for a small investment
Page 5 of 9
simple and highly effective solution for a small investment
= happy days, trust me). Stop cleaning non-solvent based
paints/airbrushes with solvent-based chems, it solves the
bulk of the spraying issues.
Therefore I started up with MMP already in the right
mindset with the right tool and why I don't see anywhere
near the issues modelers report.
If you have one airbrush and Mr. Color works best for you
and how you paint, then go for it. Hope you wear a mask
and have a ventilated room, the smell comes with
baggage, so please don't take it lightly. Your health
matters.
4
Bryan Searby Thanks Michael 1
Nathan Ram This is a side question, but what size nozzle

do you use with MMP? Can you spray it through
something like an Iwata cm brush (it has a 0.18 nozzle if
memory serves)
1
Bryan Searby I was able to spray MMP through the Micron

0.23 but had to alter the mix.My mix was 10/5/2 poly so
you may need to adjust your mix a fraction.I know another
top modeller who’s mix is 1-1 and uses an Infinity
0.15.Sorry Michael for jumping in
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Bryan Searby all good, and great info,

thanks!
Author
Rinaldi Studio Nathan Ram Yes, it sprays through all the

various needles sizes no problem. ;)
Tracy Hancock Bryan Searby I can second Rinaldi

Studio's answer to your question. I was having
unbelievable trouble spraying MMP; to the point that I was
prepared to give them all away; but after numerous
sessions cleaning the airbrush (and spraying in between),
I've finally gotten it to spray perfectly. I've switched to a
second airbrush for Tamiya paints, which I've never had
trouble with; and am having quite a bit of trouble; but I
suspect that my second airbrush is just junk. Good luck.
Page 6 of 9
suspect that my second airbrush is just junk. Good luck.
2
Omar Chijani Mike, I presume you mostly use mmp paints now
and theyre primer, do you find you need to thin primer at a
different ratio, than paints? Like more thinner. I seem to get
clogging sometimes with the primers only it seems. I just noticed
that the pigments of thre red oxide primers kind of dry in micro
chunks in the mixing cup, I think I am shaking bottles enough, or
maybe my bottle is mnot good/too thick?...just wondering if you
encounter this at times?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio I would guess it's settled and you need to

shake more. However, if the mixed paint or primer sprays
well, then this is likely residual separation we see on the
side of the cups sometimes. I've seen it with all paint
honestly. You may have also used too much thinner? Hard
for me to pinpoint without seeing the process live.
You might have some impurities somewhere too? Could be

reaction to something else perhaps?
Omar Chijani Ok thanks, I will keep experimenting and see

if I can nail the cause.
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Omar Chijani did I misinterpret the

question? Are you having spraying issues and is that what
you need to solve?
I guess I don't really pay close attention to a mixing cup of
paint after I'm done, if the spraying went as planned... so
if you're having clogging issues, then that's a specific
thing and we will need to addressed it directly.
Page 7 of 9
Steve Finley I want to paint a 3/4 color scheme on this

guy.....please describe how you would approach this on such a
small vehicle?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio That's a very loose and general question,

and Ft-17's wore a lot of multiple color schemes. I'm going
to assume you mean the classic French 3-color hard edge
with black outlines?
In this size model, brush painting is going to be the

easiest process, if that's what you're after. Masking is not
too hard to do either, maybe more tedious, but it's not
hard to cut tape masks in this size either. In fact, it goes
super quick because it's so small. A set of scale plans with
the scheme is very helpful.
If it's a form of soft edge camo (don't recall a Ft-17 being
in soft-edge camo?), but if so then paper masks work well
or putty, with a slightly lifted edge, or some very careful
airbrushing by hand with a quality airbrush and small
needle size is the way to go.
Brush painting something size is typically the path I'd
take, unless there were some context I needed to
specifically replicate demanding another process?
Sylvain Plante Hey! Howdy Michael... what’s up?

I have to put it short, I’m at work!Question about MMP, some of
the bottles of different colours are thicker than others. Do you
still follow the recommended dilution for spraying?
1
Author
Rinaldi Studio Honestly, if this is the case with any paint,

Page 8 of 9
Rinaldi Studio Honestly, if this is the case with any paint,
then you need to adjust accordingly.
It's not a hard rule, but a guideline when a manufacturer
suggests thinning ratios, and this is all part of painting. I
almost never use the "exact" same thinning ratio every
single time because I mix at the bench, or directly into the
cup, on the fly as it were, and often by "feel" from my
given level of experience.
If you notice something is too thick, then simply add more

thinner.. plus, and this is crucial, you are always test
spraying when you mix to ensure you get it right BEFORE
you spray the model, ie. I mean everyone should be doing
this, and this is something often lost in these
conversations.
I ALWAYS test spray before I go to the model, that's what

the paper towel, or bench top paper, or scrap test is
always at hand for. Fine tune, make it perfect, THEN spray
the model -- this is the process every single time, no
matter the brand.
The recommenced or advised ratios in books, mags,

online, etc. are always just basic guidelines and starting
points. Temp, humidity, paint thickness, etc. are all ever
changing variables you need to account for as a painter.
3
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Rinaldi Studio

March 30, 2018 ·

RSP Q&A SESSION #5

Comment as Rinaldi Studio

BJ DeBekker Have you tried those new Needle Sharpeners

When I insert a needle back in the rear, I always lay on my

Trevan Rose What do u think is the best combination of paint,

Trevan Rose Thanks so much for your reply!

Reply as Rinaldi Studio

AaronKuck Armor Any tips or tricks that you have on using

I should mention for clarity, most of you already know this,

I personally like my armor more matte, so don't use the

BJ DeBekker Rinaldi Studio More of a request then a

BJ DeBekker Rinaldi Studio Aww come on now.. I am a

Reply as Rinaldi Studio

Norman King Is mixing paints outside the airbrush cup good

Rinaldi Studio Perfectly fine, and something I do all the

I do thin/mix directly into the cup many times if it's just a

Dan Kraus Here's another example, with a 1/44 Gundam shield

Like · Reply · Message · 1y

Dan Kraus Rinaldi Studio Thanks! I should mention they

Reply as Rinaldi Studio

Norman King I think I’m guilty of over-cleaning my airbrushes,

This factor changed my painting dramatically. When

Therefore, I will NEVER spray Vallejo through the airbrush I

Norman King Rinaldi Studio I mostly use Tamiya acrylic

Reply as Rinaldi Studio

Nathan Ram How do you spray dullcoat/varnish? Do the need

Rinaldi Studio For Testers Dullcote, I usually use the

For a varnish, most of my experience has been with Vallejo

John Gunn Do you find that the ambient moisture or

Rinaldi Studio Yes, a lot. I am from SoCal/LA area, lived in

Hot/cold and dry require more thinning, and you'll see

BJ DeBekker I will open it up with a basic question.. What are

I have one airbrush per chemical type. This keeps most of

BJ DeBekker Nice.. You haven't had any issues with the

Trust me, something is inside or your AB, or you had used

Scott Gentry Everyone reading this thread should read

Reply as Rinaldi Studio

Norman King Do you think priming is essential?

Simply put, I have never had an issue BECAUSE I primed a

Sylvain Plante And, it brings out any defects, mismatch,

Reply as Rinaldi Studio

My compressor, and Iwata Power Jet (Studio Series) is set

BJ DeBekker Before the Days of Mission Models Primer. (Which

Rough surface is almost always related to distance to the

If this a persistent issue, set up a test and run various

Dan Kraus Hi Michael,

This is part airbrushing, part hairspray question.

RSP Q&A SESSION #10

Like Comment Share

Comment as Rinaldi Studio

Which are the main reasons I'm so supportive of MMP -- ease of

Reply as Rinaldi Studio

John Bonanni So many questions, now I have so much time

I'll start off by asking your thoughts on drying time before

First off, to help set a baseline of knowledge, for all of you

Majid Mansoor Rinaldi Studio TY Michael and Hi John this

Reply as Rinaldi Studio

Gideon Kasaska Hi Mike, I've been having an issue with MMP. I

I recommend a second AB if the budget allows for it.

Skip this, or go lightly, and problems WILL occur.

Gideon Kasaska Thanks for the reply! When I strip and