A CLIMBER'’S GUIDE TO BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Thanks to all who helped assemble this guide by either providing information or climbing routes with me. FIRST EDITIONWARNING: CLIMBING IN BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK MAY BE HAZARDOUS AND EVEN FATAL. “This guide is an effort to steer climbers toward known routes, but all rock in the park is suspect and even some of the “known” routes have not seen many ascents, Do notuse this guides an instructional manual on technical climbing, Use extreme caution while climbing and safeguard your belayer from fallingrock. Route descriptions are the result of either second (or third) hand information or the author's personal experience. Ratingsand descriptions may be inaccurate, so use your own judgment when assessing the stability and difficulty ofactimb. Impact on this natural resource and the burden of providing backcountry rescue are factors that could adversely affect access. Climb responsibly and safely for the sake of future adventurers in Big Bend National Park. “Approaches may be relatively long and Big Bend weather can kill. Be prepared for the elements and donot rely on springs for water. Winter in Big Bend National Park can be extremely varied, ranging from warm and sunny to extreme cold and snow. Check the forecast before leaving on an extended backcounty trip. Do not depend on an expedient rescue. Even if you are injured next to the park ambulance, you are still at east two hours from ahospital. Climb safe! A climbing helmet is an important part ofa Big Bend climber’s rack. Dehydration kills park visitors every year; you cannot bring toomuch water. Allrock in Big Bend National Park is suspect, so belayer position and gear placement are especially critical. Thereisno guarantee, either written or implied, that this guide is accurate, Climbers assume responsibility for their own safety, Alsate’s Nose ROUTE DESCRIPTION: Start carly and hike up the Maple Canyon Trail and angle toward the base of the nose, The first two pitches are loose, dirty fourth class (a litle fifth class) climbing, through lechuguilla and assorted other painful distractions. At the top of the second pitch we rappelled off'a grassy knoll into the main gully. This could also be down climbed but it seemed to save time to rappell. From here, third and fourth class your way up loose talus, then traverse right to the base of a low angle, shattered-looking section and rope up. Thisis a short pitch (low fiftlclass) with one old, rusted 14” button-head bolt (the only protection) on the way. This pitch will get you to alarge ledge. Walk up to the base of the next pitch, a wide crack (5.6), which is about 30 feet high. Once past this, easy third class climbing will take you up another 300 feet to thenext band of steep terrain, Follow a steep-walled chute up loose talus to the base of what, looks like a drainage. Itis. Rope up forthis 5.7 pitch toa tree on a ledge to the climber’s left of the crack system (over 100 feet). One more loose rock pitch gets you to the summit. We climbed the route in just under seven hours. DESCENT: Once on top of Pulliam Bluff, hike along the ridge over Pulliam Peak and down the other side to Campground Canyon. We somehow got offroute and had to rappell an 80-foot pour offin one of the canyons so be prepared to do the same, From the top to the Basin Camp- ground took four hours. The total trip time was eleven hours. EQUIPMENT: The followings a list of technical gear taken for this climb: Black Diamond Camelots, sizes % through 3% Lowe Tri Cams, four smallest sizes ‘Webbing runners, 9 each (4 of 24” and 5 of 12”) Around 20 non-locking carabiners and 4 lockers Cordellete (2) 60M X 10.5mm Dynamic rope (200 feet) 21Pulliam Bluff ‘Texas’ ongest rock climb. Roughly three to five technical pitches with the hardest around 5.7 and lots of third and fourth class climbing. Approach isa creek bed and decsent is long. Alsaltes Nose Fourth and fifth class climbing. FA: Erick Burr, solo in 1965. Alsates Nose 20 Preface Big Bend National Parkis not typically considered a climbers’ destination, but it offers, some scenic, challenging, and wildly varied rock climbs. Over the years park visitors often inquired about climbing, but rangers had litle information to give them. There is little written formation that Ihave been ableto find. I did, however, stumble upon ahand written, yellow- ing guide of Big Bend National Park that was penned by Roger Sigland in 1969 and have used this guide as arreference. Roger was a ranger atthe time and had claimed many ascents in the park. Roger collected information on Herb and Jan Conn, a couple who recorded Big Bend National Park's first technical climbs from 1946 to 1948, They have many first ascents to their credit, notably Dutch Girl, albeautiful crack climb up a scenic spire at the end of the Lost Mine Trail, Ice Cream Cone, apinnacle off the northwest flank of Emory Peak, and a route on the north face ‘of Casa Grande. To the best of my knowledge the route on Casa Grande has yetto sea second ascent, Local climber Bill Blackstock was very helpfill with this guide, particularly for providing, information on the Indian Head Mountain area, some of which lies outside the park. Bill Blackstock, Bill Daveys, and Mark Mills authored many first ascents in and around Big Bend. Bill Daveys routes in particular can bebold, scary, difficult affairs Climbing in the park is unofficially discouraged because there i little written information to disseminate, the quality of rock ranges from fair to terrifying, the weather can be extremely harsh, and the approaches can be long waterless ordeals. Bolting of any kind, electric or hand, isstrietly forbidden, Climbing in Big Bend National Park can be very rewarding, but leaving any trace of impact on this resource will, overtime, surely jeopardize access. This guide barely scratches the surface of climbs in Big Bend National Park and is meant tobe avery dynamic document. Many climbs in this guide are without names because itis not known who made the first ascent. As information is collected from past climbers, as well as current visitors, this guide will be periodically updated. Please provide your input on ratings onany climbs at one of the park visitor centers. ; ; Mule Ears Please get involved. Ifyou climb in the park let a ranger know about it. Provide a photo or ‘Approach via the Mule Ears Trail sketch and a written description of the location, route, and overall quality of theclim. Your Mech Mate Bar Grade VI FA: Herb and Iann Conn, 1946-48 (Summit, March, 1957) fort will be much appreciated by future climbers South Mule Ear Fifth class FA: Herb and Jann Conn, 1948, David Home, Park Ranger July 4, 1999 19Dog Canyon Dog Canyon offers some of Big Bend’s only sport climbs. Drive north from Panther Junction for about 23 miles and park in the Dog Canyon trailhead parking area. The approach is. flat 2 mile walk to thecanyon, Asyou enter the canyon look for bolts (Dog 1) on the steep face on theright. Further up canyon isa second climb (Dog 2) which requires some natural pro, and the third is directly across the canyon. AX x Dog2--5.11 (unconfirmed) Dog 15.13 (uncomfirmed) 18 Big Bend National Park Maraihon| Alpine HWY 385 HWY 118 Dog Canyon Grapevine Hills Indian Head ‘Mountain Study Butte Rio Grande Village Santa Elena Canyon CastolonTABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction. aegis Climbing Topo Legend Boot ROCK... Lost Mine Spire. Grapevine Hills... Basin ROCK .wossnenneesnee 14 Lodge Rock. 15 Hayes Ridge (Pine Canyon Road), 16 Dog Canyon. 18 Mule Ears, Pulliam Bluff. ee eset eters aati reta) Hayes Ridge ridge section. Hayes Crack lies on the right third o: 7 Hayes Crack 5.97 TinknownHayes Ridge High clearance vehicles are recommended for Pine Canyon road. There isa band ofcliffalong the Pine Canyon road that has much potential for solid climbing. This area has seen climbing activity in the past as evidenced by the presence of pitons at the top of at least three one pitch crack climbs. ‘To get there drive approximately 2.7 miles on Glenn Springs road and take the Pine Canyon tum off, then go about 1.6 miles to the cliff ie { Panther Junction i ‘ ye Sg (Hayes Craek Hayes Rey, 16 INTRODUCTION Geology The great majority of the park’s exposed vertical rock is composed of unstable igneous rock (rhyolite) and sharply fluted limestone. River canyon routes, Dog Canyon, and Mesa de ‘Anguila routes are generally composed oflimestone. Routesin the Chisos, Grapevine Hills, and Pine Canyon are generally composed of igneous rock. Don’t let this discourage you too much; there are relatively solid climbs on igneous rock. As stated by Roger Sigland in his informal guide, “On any climb expect rotten rock and few good eracks for pitons” Maps Topographic maps and trail guides are available from the Big Bend Natural History Association in the Panther Junction Visitor Center. Registration Permits are required for backcountry camping. Permits are not required for climbing, however, voluntary registration at one ofthe visitor centers is encouraged. Some climbing areas are so remote, however, that a backcountry permit may be required to gain access to them. Please check in and out for safety reasons 2s well as to provide climbing information for this guide. Equipment Most climbs in the park require traditional gear from small nuts o off width protection. Many climbs involve a significant approach so check the weather and pack accordingly. Helmets are highly recommended. Ratings ‘The Yosemite decimal system is used to rate difficulty. However, these ratings are based on very few climbers’ opinions, which are suspect at best. Asin other guide books, ‘R’ and ‘X” ratings will be given when appropriate, A climb with an R rating has the potential for a long or serious fall and is poorly protected. A climb with an X rating has the potential for a ground level or fatal fall and is poorly protected at difficult sections.Bolting ‘Theuseof portable electric drills is prohibited. Hand drilingii allowed only with written approval of the Superintendent. There are routes with bolts and even a few sport climbs in the park, but some were placed prior to any rules on the subject and some were placed illegally. Replacement of old bolts with 3/8 inch bolts is currently allowed, Cultural Resources Climbing, ascending, descending, or traversing an archeological or cultural resources prohib- ited. Be aware of your impact and tread lightly. Restrictions/Closures ‘The following areas are closed to climbing from February 1 to July 15 annually to protect nesting sites of the endangered peregrine falcon: Santa Elena Canyon, from Mirror Canyon (1/4 mile downstream from the entrance to Santa Elena Canyon) to Bruja Canyon; Mariscal Canyon west of Cross Canyon; South Rim; Crown Mountain; Lost Mine Peak; Pinnacles; Toll ‘Mountain; and all areas within 1/2 mile ofa known eyrie site. Restrictions may be lifted where monitoring demonstrates that nesting activity will not occur for the year 2 Lodge Roc! 7 This small formation is about 50 yards up a trail leading away from the Chisos Basin Lodge (toward Casa Grande) from the parking lot. These are very accessible top rope problems, Total height is only about 30 feet. 1. Hole Shot 5.10 Start in the hole and climb straight out 2. Crack $5 3. Middle Face 38 4, Right Face 5.8+Basin Rock Park in the Basin Amphitheater parking lot (or campground) and walk up the road toward the lodge for about 50 feet. A faint dirt road leaves the pavement toward the power lines. Follow this road until itends. faint tral continues under the power lines which leads directly to this formation. Approach takes 10-15 minutes. 1. Shattered Crack 5.6 Starton left (climbers lft) side of formation. Climb up comer crack nex to left facing wall to two bolt belay anchor 2. Javalina 5.9 There's one 5.9 move getting over the wall from Shattered Crack (about halfway up). After that, climb about 40 feet of 5.5 (slightly right, no pro) to. three bolt belay. 3. Main Face 5.5/5.6 Lots of variations on the large face area ofthis formation. Pro can be sparse. Three bolt belay anchor approximately 130 feet up. Either rappel or climb slightly exposed fourth class to the top and walk off, 14 Cli Topo Legend - Reppell Overhang. Right Facing Crack Wide Crack Bush Piton i Bolt t BoltBelay \ Face ClimbBoot Rock The Boot 5.10/5.1| Rated X (very run out and loose) FA Unknown Boot Rock isa spectacular spire located in Boot Canyon. The Boot has seen very few ascents probably due to the difficulty, sparse protection, and looseness of the rock. Approach the Boot via the Pinnacles Trail and head toward Boot Canyon 3 (BC3) campsite. From the campsite drop down into the wash and head downstream for approximately 1/4 mile. The route starts in the notch inthe uphill side ofthe spire. Bill Zimmer attempting The Boot. Grapevine Hills Like Slabatage 584 1.3 Grapevine Hills ‘apevine Hill The Boot 5.10/5.11 Rated X Lots of distance and loose rock to Ist and 2nd bolts. Davié Horne on Btealator 58 12Lost Mine Spire Hike the Lost Mine Trail to the end and look for the large pinnacle with a pie shaped wedge missing from the lower half. Duich Girl begins in a notch on the other side of the pinnacle as you approach from the end of the trail. Continue down the amphitheater for Dutch Boy, a finger crack adjacent toa wide crack. Further around the formation is Dutch Bag. ‘ Lost Mine Trailhead x \ \ Dutch Crack STR Dutch Boy 5.9 Dutch Girl 5.84 8. Gallon Jug 0 Fun 5.8 Seramble to base from the right side of two large boulders. Climb stats at the base of the top boulder. Climb the finger crack past a shrub to an awkward ledge. Continue up the next finger crack section to a wider section (2.5"-3") which leads to the top. 9, Dorsal Fin 5.9 Start to the tight of Galfon Jug O Fun directly beneath an obvious protruding rock fin ‘The start takes you through a short rotten section on the left side of the fin. The top of the fin is a good rest ledge. Leave the fin and climb straight up through some chock stones to the next ledge. Finish up on a swider crack to the top. 10. Grape Ape 5.8 Start about ten feet to the right of Dorsal Fin. Follow crack through an awkward move to aledge at the base ofa large block. A finger crack next to the block leads tothe top. 11. Fourth Class Gully 4th elass Look for the fourth class gully to the right of Grape Ape. 12. Port Wine Hang Over 8.7 Start in the cave to the right of Fourth Class Gully. Chimney up and out of the cave. Continue up fourth and fifth class climbing to the top. 13. Girl Scout Route 5.6 Wide crack to the right of the cave, 14, Tree Route 5.6 Climb crack system to the ight of Girl Scout Route 15. Escalator 5.8 Climb finger crack though a parallel walled section, Continue straight up when walls end through a blocky section and finish on a short section of wide crack. 16. Tork Like 5.8 Climb stars to the right of Escalator. Small overhang leads toa finger crack. Finish on blocky section 17. Slabatage 5.8+ Same start as Tork Like. At overhang, traverse right and negotiate overhang onto solid face climbing around the comer from Main Wall. uGrapevine Hills There isone small outcrop that is more stable than the surrounding rock. Drive approximately 6.8 miles down Grapevine Hills Road and you will see the cliffon the east (right) side of the road just past the Grapevine HillsTrailhead First Slab (far left) 1, Thin Line 5.10 Far left (climbers left side of the formation, Thin crack splits a large flat section with some lichen on the left side of it. 2, Intersection 5.8 Same start as Thin Line, but ascends right up a double crack system, 3. Mine Shaft 5.7 Same start as above. Instead of heading up Intersection, follow finger crack up and right. This leads to about 20 feet of chimney climbing to the top. Second Slab 4. Cabernet Crack 8.9 Same start as above. Head into comer crack of the second and third slabs. Lie back toa small ledge (Mine Shaft will be lef). Route continues up short finger crack section (15 feet) ‘Third Slab 5. Grapes of Wrath 5.7 Start next toa tee atthe base on left side ofthe Fourth Slab, Follow crack system up and over Fourth Slab and continue crack system up Third Slab, 6. Boones Farm 5.7 Same startas Grapes of Wrath. Climb corner of Fourth and Fifth Slabs to a ledge. Traverse right and continue up corner to a crack system on the upper part of the Third Slab, th Slab. Wall) 7, Vermont Border Insertion 5.8 This 3” crack lis between a wide chimney size section and a thin crack ‘with a dead shrub init (Gallon Jug O Fun). Start atthe base of the chimney and climb over rotten rock to the 3” crack, Follow the crack to a horizontal crack and traverse left. Climb the chimney to another horizon: tal crack. Traverse right until you come to a vertical finger crack which leads tothe top. An excellent Variation is o climb Gallon Jug O Fun, then traverse left and finish on the Vermont finger crack. Dutch Boy 9 Small nuts to 7 inch. Descent: Approximate 70 foot rappell off back side.Lost Mine Spire Dutch Girl 58+ FA: Herb and Jann Conn, 1948. Descent: Rappell route (approx. 70 feet). Dutch Crack 5.11 TR