COSMECEUTICAL ONLINE PRACTICAL

2
TITLE: Rouge Preparation

GROUP 8 MEMBER:

1. CHIN PEI RU A180510

2. CHIN XIN NING A181884
3. NURUL AIN BINTI MOHD ANUAR A182388
4. TEO YI YING A183554

LECTURER’S NAME: PM DR. NG SHIOW FERN

SEMESTER II, SESSION 2020-2021

FACULTY OF PHARMACY
Result and discussion:

1. By referring to Table 3, calculate the percentage of cetyl alcohol and liquid paraffin
needed to produce basic (C0) and coloured cream rouges (CC). [4marks]

Basic powder 80g of CO (0%) 50g of CC (2%)

formulation

Cocoa butter 5% 4 2.5

Beeswax 12% 9.6 6

Cetyl alcohol 1% 0.8 0.5

Wool fat 5% 4 2.5

Liquid paraffin 30% 24 15

Borax 1% 0.8 0.5

Colorants 2% - 1

Water q.s. ad 100% 80 50

Cetyl alcohol (1%)

In 80 g of CO (0%),
1
Cetyl alcohol = 80 × 100
= 0. 8𝑔

In 50 g of CC (2%),
1
Cetyl alcohol = 50 × 100
= 0. 5𝑔

Liquid paraffin (30%)

In 80 g of CO (0%),
30
Liquid paraffin = 80 × 100
= 24𝑔

In 50 g of CC (2%),
30
Cetyl alcohol = 50 × 100
= 15𝑔
2. By referring to Table 2 and 4, calculate the amount of the basic and coloured dry/cream
rouge needed. [8 marks]

Table 2: Compositions of P0 and PC for preparing different shades of rouges

Code Colorant (%) Amount of PC Amount of P0 Total amount

(g) (g) of rouge (g)

PC 4 20 0 20

PC1 3 15 5 20

PC2 2 10 10 20

PC3 1 5 15 20

PC4 0.5 2.5 17.5 20

Amount of PC

PC: 4% colorant = 20 g PC
20
PC1: 3% colorant = 4
× 3 = 15 𝑔
So, amount of PC in PC1 = 15 g

PC: 4% colorant = 20 g PC
20
PC2: 2% colorant = 4
× 2 = 10 𝑔
So, amount of PC in PC2 = 10 g

Amount of PO

Amount of PO = Total amount of rouge - Amount of PC

Amount of PO in PC1 = 20 g - 15 g = 5 g
Amount of PO in PC2 = 20 g - 10 g = 10 g
Table 4: Compositions of C0 and CC for preparing different shades of cream rouges.

Code Colorant (%) Amount of CC Amount of C0 Total amount

(g) (g) of rouge (g)

CC 2 20 0 20

CC1 1 10 10 20

CC2 0.5 5 15 20

CC3 0.25 2.5 17.5 20

CC4 0.125 1.25 18.75 20

Amount of CC

CC: 2% colorant = 20 g CC
20
CC2: 0.5% colorant = 2
× 0. 5 = 5 𝑔
So, amount of CC in CC2 = 5 g

CC: 2% colorant = 20 g CC
20
CC4: 0.125% colorant = 2
× 0. 125 = 1. 25 𝑔
So, amount of CC in CC2 = 1.25 g

Amount of C0

Amount of C0 = Total amount of rouge - Amount of CC

Amount of C0 in CC2 = 20 g - 5 g = 15 g
Amount of C0 in CC4 = 20 g - 1.25 g = 18.75 g

3. Briefly explain the factors that affects colour shade of the rouge. [3 marks]

Based on the result obtained, we can deduce that the concentration of pigment colorant is
the factor which determines the colour shadings of powder and cream rouges. The lower
the ratio of colourant to diluent (smaller amount of pigment colourant), the shallower the
 shade is. For instance, in PC4 the colorant percentage is 0.5% so that rouge has lighter
colour compared to PC with 4% colorant. Besides, storage conditions can also affect the
colour shade of rouge. Changes in colour may occur when the rouge is exposed to
sunlight. The colour of dry rouge faded when exposed to sunlight while the colour of
cream rouge became darker and sweating. In addition, one of the factors that affects
colour shade of rouge is instability of ingredients in the formulation. Instability of
ingredients may cause the colour of the inner part of the preparation to become lighter.

4. Discuss the stability of dry and cream rouges. [6 marks]

Powder rouge is more stable under sunlight because most of the material are inorganic or
minerals with high melting point such as kaolin and zinc oxide. Hence, the texture of the
rouge does not change. Nevertheless, photodegradation still occurs. There is light
absorbing colour bodies present in colorant. UV rays and heat from the sunlight cause the
chemical bond to break down and lead to fading of colour.

For the cream rouges, it is formulated as o/w emulsion using a cream base. Under high
temperatures, the system becomes destabilised and so the rouges show sweating.
Besides, cream rouge includes fatty bases such as cocoa butter with a low melting point
of 30~36℃. Thus, the texture becomes softened after the exposure. UV light will also
cause lipid oxidation in ingredients such as liquid paraffin. Oxidation of the colourant and
bases leads to the colour becoming darker.

Overall, powder rouges are more stable in heat and sunlight compared to cream rouges.

5. Suggest TWO (2) other tests for evaluating the stability of rouges. [6 marks]

One of the stability tests that can be used to evaluate the stability of rouges is the
centrifuge testing. This test is used to predict the creaming of the cream rouge. It is done
by heating the emulsion (cream rouge) to 50oC and centrifuge it for thirty minutes at
3000 rpm. Then inspect the resultant product for signs of creaming. Creaming is a
condition in which the dispersed phase (of an oil-in-water emulsion) of cream rouge has a
tendency to separate and rise to the top of the emulsion forming a layer of oil droplets.
The centrifuge test can be used to test the emulsion stability for cream make-up such as
cream rouge. The stability test of the powder rouges is called caking test. This test can
determine the cause of powder caking, particle agglomeration or clumping, all of these
will affect the quality of the product.The process is studied by comparing the powders’
flow properties in a rotating drum before and after exposure to pressure/storage
conditions. Hence, the particle size changes during mixing, blending, transportation or
storage can be studied.

Another stability test that can be used to evaluate the stability of rouges is the
cycle testing. In this test, the rouge will undergo three cycles of temperature testing from
-10oC to 25oC. Initially, the rouge will undergo the first cycle where the product is placed
24 hours at -10oC followed by 24 hours at room temperature (25oC). If the rouge passes
three cycles, it indicates that the rouge has a good degree of confidence in product
stability. An even more rigorous version of this test can be carried out at -10oC to 45oC
for five cycles. This puts the rouge under a tremendous stress and, if the rouge passes this
test, it indicates that rouge is relatively stable.

Explain the function(s) of the ingredients used in the formulation of dry rouge (Table 1)
and cream rouge (Table 2) [10 marks]

Formulation of dry rouge (Table 1)

Ingredients Functions
Kaolin Acts as emollient and absorbs the oil to prevent excess shine
from oil. This allows the makeup to stay on longer,
withstanding perspiration and wet or humid conditions.

Talc Acts as lubricant, absorbs oil, prevents caking and makes facial
makeup more translucent.

Acts as a non-gelling thickener as well as a film-forming

Magnesium
and anti-caking agent. It also absorbs oil and helps in
Stearate
keeping the products on skin

Acts as a physical block to the sun's ultraviolet (UV)

Zinc oxide
radiation, helping to reduce or prevent sunburn and
premature aging of the skin. It also has thickening,
moisturizing and soothing properties.

Rice starch Acts as excipient, disintegrant or as binder.

Act as an anti-caking agent, helps in preventing the powder

from caking and form clumps.

Acts absorbent, opacifying agent and pH adjuster.

Magnesium
carbonate

Colouring
Colorant
 Titanium Acts as UV filter and used as thickening, whitening, lubricating
dioxide q.s ad agent.

Formulation of cream rouge (Table 2)

Ingredients
Functions

Cocoa butter Acts as emollient, which means it works to moisturise

deep down to keep skin soft and supple

Beeswax Acts as humectant and have soothing properties

Cetyl alcohol Acts as an emulsifier and prevents the creams rouge

from separating into oil and liquid. It also acts as an
emollient and thickener.

Wool fat
Acts as emollient, which means it helps soothe dry or
dehydrated skin

Liquid paraffin Acts as a skin lubricant or emollient. So, it moisturise,

soothe, and improve the texture of skin
 Borax Acts as an emulsifier, buffering agent and preservative

Colorants Colouring

Water q.s ad Act as solvent

6. What conclusion can be made from the results reported? [3 marks]

Different colour intensity of the rouge can be obtained through different concentrations of
colorants by diluting coloured powder or cream rouge with basic powder or cream
formulation respectively.  The higher the concentration of the colorant or the portion of
the coloured (powder/cream) rouge, the darker the colour of the rouge. Physical
appearance of powder rouge and cream rouge such as change in colour and softening in
texture may occur when the rouge is exposed to direct sunlight. Hence, proper storage
condition of rouge is crucial to maintain its stability. Generally, dry powder rouges are
more stable than cream rouges as they only show changes in colour and no changes in
texture when exposed to sunlight for 30 days, whereas cream rouges show darker and
sweating in colour and soften in texture when exposed to sunlight for 30 days. It is
recommended to keep the rouge away from sunlight to maintain its stability.

Reference:
1. Why does ultraviolet light cause color to fade? (2109, November 19). Library of
Congress.
https://www.loc.gov/everyday-mysteries/item/why-does-ultraviolet-light-cause-color-to-f
ade/
2. Cosmetics Info. (2021). Zinc Oxide. Zinc Oxide.
https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/zinc-oxide-0.
3. Cosmetics Info. (2021). Magnesium Carbonate. Magnesium Carbonate.
https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/magnesium-carbonate.
4. Begoun, P. (2021). titanium dioxide. Paula's Choice.
https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/sunscreen-actives/titanium-dioxide.
html.
5. Eghbali, E. (2020, June 17). Why Beeswax is not an Emulsifier. Formula Botanica.
https://formulabotanica.com/beeswax-is-not-an-emulsifier/.
6. Vaseline. (2020). Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter Benefits: Facts and Uses. Vaseline.
https://www.vaseline.com/my/en/articles/products-and-ingredients/cocoa-butter-and-shea
-butter-benefits-facts-and-uses.html.
7. Cafasso, J. (2019, February 25). Cetearyl Alcohol: What It Is & How It's Used in Your
Beauty Products. Healthline. https://www.healthline.com/health/cetearyl-alcohol#uses.
8. Derm Review. (2021, June 18). Cetyl Alcohol - The Truth Behind Cetyl Alcohol And Why
It's A Popular Skincare Ingredient. The Dermatology Review.
https://thedermreview.com/cetyl-alcohol/.
9. Cirino, E. (2018, May 29). Is Borax Safe: To Ingest, For Kids, on Skin, and More.
Healthline. https://www.healthline.com/health/is-borax-safe#TOC_TITLE_HDR_1.
10. STABILITY TESTING OF COSMETICS. (n.d.). Making Cosmetics.
https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Stability-Testing-of-Cosmetics_ep_59.html?locale=e
n
11. Caking Tests. (n.d.). Mercury Scientific Inc.
http://www.mercuryscientific.com/tests/caking-tests