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Development formulation

Hair colour cream with Crodafos HCE C5192 (HP-262)


The formula for this hair colour cream gives a richer shade of auburn due to Crodafos HCE which delays
the reaction between tint and developer long enough for more of the dye to penetrate into the hair.
Crodazosoft DBQ and the proteins provide conditioning and moisturising benefits, respectively.
Crodamazon Pequi has been added for it’s richness in Vitamin A and protecting properties in chemically
treated hair. Sodium Erythorbate is the antioxidant.

Product / INCI Name Functionality % w/w


Part A
CRODACOL S95 EP (Stearyl Alcohol)1 Emulsion Stabiliser 9.00
COSMOWAX D (Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20)1 Emulsifying wax 6.00
CRODAMAZON PEQUI (Caryocar Brasiliense Fruit Oil)1 Natural Emollient 5.00
Viscosity Modifier /
NOVOL (Oleyl Alcohol)1 4.00
Emollient
CRODAZOSOFT DBQ (Quaternium-91 and Cetrimonium Methosulfate
1 Conditioning agent 3.00
and Cetearyl Alcohol)
CRODAFOS HCE (Oleth-5 Phosphate and Dioleyl Phosphate)1 Hair colour enhancer 3.00
Part B
Water deionised (Aqua) - to 100
1
CROSULTAINE C-50 (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine and Aqua) Rinsing Aid for dye 2.00
2
p-Aminophenol 1.02
4-Amino-2-hydroxytoluene2 Dye Intermediates/ 0.82
p-Phenylenediamine2 Couplers 0.16
Resorcinol2 0.04
Sodium sulfite Antioxidant 0.80
Sodium erythorbate Antioxidant 0.60
Tetrasodium EDTA Sequesterant 0.60
Part C
CRODASONE W (Aqua and Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Enhance dye
1
deposition + conditioner
0.50
Silanetriol)
CROSILKQUAT (Aqua and Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino
1 Conditioning agent 0.50
Acids)
Part D
Ammonia, 35% Alkalizers 10.00

Suppliers:- 1 Croda 2 Keystone Aniline Corp

Non-warranty
This formulation has been subjected to limited stability tests and has been shown to perform well. However
formulators adopting this approach should ensure to their own satisfaction long term stability and
functionality. It is good practice to conduct safety tests on all final formulations prior to marketing.
Suggested uses should not be taken as an inducement to infringe any existing patents.
Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd. / Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole DN14 9AA United Kingdom
Tel +44 (0) 1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 8630205 Website www.croda.co.uk
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Method
Combine ingredients of Parts A and B separately with mixing and heat to 70 – 75 ºC. Add Park
B to Part A with mixing and cool to 35 ºC. Add ingredients of Part C individually with mixing.
Cool to room temperature and add Part D, mixing well.

Mix cream and hydrogen peroxide developer (see below) in a 1:1 ratio until uniform.

pH: 10.4 ± 0.5

Viscosity: 51,5600 cps ± 10% (RVT Spindle # TC @ 10 rpm, RT)

Hydrogen Peroxide Developer


As the emulsifier for this hydrogen peroxide base, Crodafos CS-20 Acid produces a smooth,
shiny lotion-type that continues to display consistent viscosity and pH stability over time.

Product / INCI Name Function % w/w


Part A
CRODAFOS CS-20 ACID (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate Primary Emulsifier 5.00
(and) Dicetyl Phosphate)
Mineral Oil Base Oil 5.00
CRODALAN LA (Cetyl Acetate (and) Stearyl Acetate (and) Oleyl 0.50
Acetate (and) Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol)
Part B
Deionised Water (Aqua) - To 100
VOLPO S-20 (Steareth-20) Secondary Emulsifier 0.50
Part C
Hydrogen Peroxide (35%) Active 17.00

Method
Heat separately Part A and B and heat to 80°C. Add part B to A with stirring. Stir to cool. At
35°C add part C and mix well. Adjust pH with 98% TEA.

Viscosity : 7000cps ± 10% (RVT Spindle TC, 10rpm)


pH : 3.0 ± 0.5

Mixed pH: 10.2 ± 0.5

Mixed viscosity: 11,700 cps ± 10% (RVT Spindle TC @ 10 rpm, RT)

Non-warranty
This formulation has been subjected to limited stability tests and has been shown to perform well. However
formulators adopting this approach should ensure to their own satisfaction long term stability and
functionality. It is good practice to conduct safety tests on all final formulations prior to marketing.
Suggested uses should not be taken as an inducement to infringe any existing patents.
Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd. Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole DN14 9AA United Kingdom
Tel +44 (0) 1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 8630205 Website www.croda.co.uk
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