When it came to putting the big fella together, I test fitted all the

pieces first in order to decide on the pose, then glued all the parts
together bar the shoulder mounted heavy bolter and its attendant ammo
feeds. Because the feeds are supplied straight, they will need to be heated
up and curved round to meet the inlet of the Domitar’s main body. I glued
the straight fees on to the heavy bolter, and once the this was dry I
heated them up in order to make them them bendy. A hair drier or heat gun
is ideal for this, although you can dip it in a mug of boiling water using
tweezers as an alternative. Once you are happy with the position, the heavy
bolter and feeds can be glued to the main body.

As a painter, the thing I like most about the Iron Warriors is their
utilitarian brutalist aesthetic. Not for them the pompous preening martial
decor of lackeys of the false emperors like the Imperial Fists. With this
in mind, I tend to employ lots of washes and a sponging technique to get a
worn and weathered metal effect. The whole model was given a basecoat of
Leadbelcher spray and once dry an all over wash of 50:50 Agrax Earthshade
and Nuln Oil. Over this I sponged successive layers of Leadbelcher,
Ironbreaker and Stormhost Silver over the metallic areas of the model. The
pieces of grey sponge found in Games Workshop clam packs are ideal for this
technique. As with all weathering, remember when applying this sponging,
less is more!

The Domitar wouldn’t be part of Perturabo’s legion if it didn’t feature the

distinctive yellow and black banding of the Iron Warriors. I used a
basecoat of Averland Sunset, washed with Casandora Yellow and subtly
highlighted with Yriel Yellow. The black banding was Abaddon Black applied
with a small detail brush. Steady hand!

The brass plating was given a base coat of Warplock Bronze with a subtle
drybrushing of Brass Scorpion. Next, several transfers were applied using
the Forge World Iron Warriors transfer sheet. It’s a good tip to first
apply gloss varnish over the areas where the transfer will sit, as this
will help to hide the edges of the transfer film when dry, Once the
transfers are dry apply a thin coat of Lahmian Medium over the area to take
away the gloss shine.

Finally I applied small amounts of Typhus Corrosion Ryza Rust on areas of

the model where such damage would occur like recesses and edges of armour.
Nihilakh Oxide was applied sparingly in the recesses of the brass plating.

The base was made using torn up cork board sprayed black and base coated
with Rhinox Hide and with patched of Stirland Mud applied in patches. Once
dry this was then dry brushed with Tallarn Sand and Terminatus Sand, with
clumps of Mordheim Turf glued on.

I hope this little guide is helpful to all you Iron Warriors aficionados
out there. Hopefully I’ll be back on these pages soon with more recruits to
the IV Legion. Sayonara!